Wanted in Rome - September 2017 by Wanted in Rome

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THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME

WHERE TO GO IN ROME

ART AND CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT GALLERIES MUSEUMS NEWS Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 9, Numero 9

CMY

CONTENTS

TITOLO

NO. 9 / SEPTEMBER 2017 EDITORIALS

ROMA REGINA AQUARUM Mary Wilsey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 HARMONIA SACRA Peter Leech . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 ITALIAN AND ANGLICISMI Martin Bennett . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

WHAT’S ON

EXHIBITIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 CLASSICAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 POP, ROCK, JAZZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 DANCE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 FESTIVALS IN ROME . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 OPERA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 OPERA NOTES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 THEATRE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 ACADEMIES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 SPORT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34

CLASSIFIED COLUMNS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 MISCELLANY

MUSEUMS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 ART GALLERIES IN ROME . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 WANTED IN ROME JUNIOR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 USEFUL NUMBERS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47

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WHERE TO GO IN ROME

ART AND CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT GALLERIES MUSEUMS NEWS Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 9, Numero 9

Silkscreen print by Toshinobu Onosato from the Boom, Beat, Bubble exhibition at Rome’s Japanese Cultural Institute until 12 October . See page 34 . www .jfroma .it .

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33 September 2017 | Wanted in Rome

ENVIRONMENT

Mary Wilsey

ROMA REGINA AQUARUM

Rome was threatened with water rationing at the end of July but political bickering and mismanagement are as much a problem as the shortage of water itself

oma, Regina Aquarum are the words that jump out at you when you look at the website of Rome’s water supplier, ACEA . Rome, Queen of Water might once have been a suitable epithet to describe the city but not in the summer of 2017 . A city that still prides itself on its ancient Roman aqueducts and its renaissance fountains has demonstrated that it is less capable today of managing its water resources that it was two millennia ago . Admittedly it has been a hot and dry summer . Lack of rain throughout the winter has left many of the lakes around the city at dangerously low levels . But this is only part of the story . Underinvestment in infrastructure, political bickering and lack of planning tell the rest of the tale . In a move to save water ACEA is reducing pressure at night in and around Rome . This comes after a warning at the end of July to ration water in Rome by eight hours a day . At the same time the governor of the Lazio region, Nicola Zingaretti, announced that he would prevent water being fed from

Wanted in Rome | September 2017

Fontana della Peschiera in Piazzale degli Eroi is fed by Rome’s most important modern aqueduct of the same name .

Lake Bracciano, north of the city, into Rome’s system . Given the perilously low level of the lake and the ecological threat this poses to the surrounding area, his action looked justified . The danger to Rome was averted only at the last moment when the ministry of the environment stepped in on the grounds that turning off water supplies would be detrimental to public health and tourism . The city’s mayor, Virginia Raggi,

claimed the credit for preventing the city from running dry, and throughout the rest of the summer most of the fountains sparkled on (except those in the Vatican, which were turned off in a gesture of goodwill to the city) and the 19th-century cast-iron water dispensers, or nasoni, continued to trickle . If there was ever a cost-effective and public-spirited way of supplying clean water in Rome it must have been the installation of nasoni throughout the

ENVIRONMENT city at the turn of the 20th century . Those were the days of lavish public works and monumental projects to celebrate the unification of Italy . The courts of justice, the Bank of Italy, the new state’s various ministries in the Via Nazionale area and of course the Altare della Patria which towers over Piazza Venezia are the most obvious examples of the building spree . But rather than build lavish fountains like the papal rulers they replaced, the architects of the new Italy decided to go for street-level water dispensers as the best way to ensure that the inhabitants of the rapidly expanding city had plentiful and clean drinking water at a time when running water in houses was still not widely available . These were a much less grandiose answer to the ancient Roman aqueducts and much less flamboyant than the renaissance and baroque fountains the popes commissioned to enhance their prestige . Sturdy, stubby and totally utilitarian, they appeared all over the city . Their one extravagance was that they provided a constant flow of water from the outlet (or nasone, which gave the drinking fountains their name) into the little run-off hole in the ground . Some of the original models, especially around the Vatican, have now been fitted with pressure taps to regulate the flow of water, but there are still many where the water flows non-stop . Surprisingly they remain a vital part of the city’s services . They supply tourists with free water; they provide washing facilities for the ever-growing number of homeless; they are still used by stall holders in the dwindling street markets to wash fruit and vegetables . Cutting off their supply this summer would have been one way of bringing public attention to the water shortage in the city, but it was more a shock tactic than a solution to the real problem . Closing the street fountains or fontanelle as they are also called nasoni is about as effective as not washing

The summit of Monte Nuria, 1888m, source of the Peschiera aqueduct east of Rieti .

teeth or hands under running water; it is a feel-good reminder that water is a precious resource but the saving is minimal . Although cutting off water from Lake Bracciano led to alarmist headlines it would have been inconvenient rather than decisive for Rome; the lake supplies only about three per cent of the city’s water . By far the largest part, about 70 per cent, comes from springs in the province of Rieti along the Peschiera aqueduct . The remainder is supplied mainly from wells around the city . The Peschiera aqueduct is not part of the ancient Roman system, some of which is still used, but was first contemplated and then designed in the early 20th century at the time of the postunification building boom in the new capital . Construction did not begin until 1937 and was then suspended at the outbreak of world war two . Work on it did not start again until the end of hostilities and then trickled on until it was finally completed in the 1980s . Luckily for Rome water along the Peschiera aqueduct is still abundant thanks to the heavier than usual snow falls in the Apennines last winter . Mount Nuria, which feeds the Peschiera, is east of Rieti close to Cittaducale, bordering the Abruzzo . It is one of

the largest springs of drinkable water in Italy and most unusually its water is so pure that it does not have to be treated . It is joined at Salisano north of Castelnouvo di Farfa by water from various basins, called Le Capore . The hydroelectric power station built at Salisano also provides electricity for Rome . Most of the aqueduct’s 130 kms are underground, which is perhaps why it is not as well known as its majestic-looking ancient Roman equivalents . Nor does its final fountain in Rome, in Piazzale degli Eroi, have a fraction of the pull of either the Trevi (fed by Acqua Vergine) or the Fontanone (fed by Acqua Paola) . The Peschiera-Capore aqueduct is about as utilitarian as Rome’s nasoni, which are in fact mainly supplied by the Peschiera . But it is the city’s life line and although it is not threatened by drought – at least not yet – it runs through earthquake territory and the recent devastating seismic upheavals along the central Apennines must have given ACEA engineers some sleepless nights . Maintenance is in fact one of the major problems for almost all of Italy’s water utilities . It is estimated that in some areas, particularly in the south, water seepage from leaking pipes means that over 40 per cent of water runs to waste . The problem is not quite September 2017 | Wanted in Rome

ENVIRONMENT taps of the Peschiera, Rome’s economy would be in as great danger of decline as its citizens would be of going thirsty .

WATER REFERENDUM 2011

Water leakage in Rome’s historic centre .

as acute in Rome but maintenance is difficult especially in the historic centre . Not far from Piazza Navona, home of Bernini’s magnificent Four Rivers Fountain commissioned by Pope Innocent X in 1651, there is a narrow street with a permanent wet patch next to a nasone with a malfunctioning pressure tap that could be quickly fixed . But the permanent puddle has been there all summer, seeping from some underground hole . Only a few months ago the street was closed for maintenance to a gas pipe (or was it electricity cables or telecommunication fibre optics?) and the sampietrini, or cobblestones, have only just been replaced . The water maintenance crews are unlikely to return for a while . Regular servicing would be easy enough given sufficient money, political will and organisation ability . However, water rights are a far more serious difficulty . The codice civile, Italy’s civil code, has whole sections dedicated to water rights, as indeed did the ancient Roman codes on aqueducts . But today who should pay what price for the water flowing through the Peschiera aqueduct has been argued back and forth since the last agreement came to an end in 1996 . In theory the city of Rome, as the major shareholder of ACEA, should pay water dues to the province of Rieti for

drawing water out of its mountains . But who decides how much it should pay? Lazio’s governor Zingaretti, of the Partito Democratico, managed to negotiate an agreement last year for an annual payment plus a one-time sum to cover the arrears since the last contract ended . However Rome’s mayor, from the anti-establishment Movimento 5 Stelle, says the city won’t pay . And so the stalemate continues . Playing political games with water is akin to playing with fire . Rationing domestic supplies may lose votes but in the end it is more an annoyance than a hardship . It is always possible to fill up the bathtub and buckets and wait until the water returns . But cutting off water to industry, agriculture and the construction sectors would have a potentially devastating effect . Anyone who has watched a block of flats go up will know how much water is needed in its construction . Even the ancient Romans knew this . The Roman aqueducts were not constructed just to provide the wealthier citizens with their hot baths and the poorer ones with uncontaminated water . The abundance of water then, just as now, was fundamental to the economic growth and power of the city . If Mayor Raggi won’t pay the city’s water bills today and if, just if, Rieti, hard hit by the financial damage done by last year’s earthquake, turned off the

In two referendums on water Italians voted overwhelmingly in 2011 that water supply and distribution should be managed by public authorities rather than private interests and that the price consumers pay for water should not reflect the real cost of investment to suppliers . While Italians clearly believe that water supply should be a public service, central, regional and local authorities as well as the suppliers themselves are still wondering how best to pay for the service and how best to encourage investment in badly needed infrastructure and remodernisation . New amendments to old laws have been put forward, regulations have been drawn up and various courts have had their say . In the six years since the referendum the over-lapping jurisdictions between central, regional and local authorities, combined with a number of conflicting court rulings, have proved that a clearly defined policy on water is almost impossible . The complex situation is not helped by the fact that not all households have water metres, the historic centre of Rome being a case in point . In such cases payment according to consumption – regardless of who supplies the water and whether it is at subsidised or a market price – is not feasible anyway .

September 2017 | Wanted in Rome

SACRED MUSIC

Peter Leech

HARMONIA SACRA

A British choir revives the forgotten glories of Rome’s 18th-century music with two ground-breaking concerts this month

armonia Sacra was formed in Bristol in 2009 by the choir’s conductor, Australian-born Peter Leech, who is based in the School of Music at Cardiff University. The choir has rapidly established a reputation for dynamic and innovative concerts and recordings of late Renaissance and Baroque choral music, performed to the highest standards. Embarking on its first overseas trip, the choir will give two concerts in Rome on 15 and 16 September.

Peter Leech conducts the Harmonia Sacra choir .

Wanted in Rome | September 2017

Mainstream academic music texts will often tell you that anything interesting, as far as sacred music in 18thcentury Rome is concerned, more or less came to an end with the death of Alessandro Scarlatti in 1725 . They also tend to claim that many of his colleagues and successors were slavish imitators of the Palestrina style who did nothing to advance sacred music in a city apparently dominated by papal conservatism . While it is undoubtedly true that in the Sistine Chapel the stile antico prevailed until the end of the 1700s (as indeed it did in Rome’s four papal basilicas), in many important parish churches in Rome sacred music was anything but conservative: in the hands of leading composers, it reached new heights of expressive power with distinctly modern and, in the wider European sense, classical flavours . One such church was S . Lorenzo in Damaso, attached to the Cancelleria, the palace of the vice-chancellor of the Roman Church . In the early 18th century, the cardinal-priest of S . Lorenzo was Pietro Ottoboni (1667–1740),

SACRED MUSIC famous patron of Arcangelo Corelli . From 1763, this church came under the protection of Cardinal Henry Benedict Stuart (1725–1807), who had been elevated to the sacred purple in 1747 . As the brother of Bonnie Prince Charlie and grandson of King James II of England, Henry Benedict Stuart was devout, sincere and musically trained . He spent lavishly on sacred music at S . Lorenzo, where composers such as Giovanni Battista Costanzi and Sebastiano Bolis enjoyed particular favour . My interest in Roman sacred music of the 18th century had for many years been confined to composers active before 1760, such as Alessandro and Domenico Scarlatti, Pietro Paolo Bencini and Giuseppe Pitoni . The second half of the century had never been a major concern of mine until 2011, when I started looking at music manuscripts preserved in the vast Santini collection in Münster, Germany . I was intrigued to come across the dedication page of a Mass setting with its composer, Sebastiano Bolis (c .1750–1804), described as maestro di cappella to Cardinal Henry Benedict Stuart at S . Lorenzo in Damaso . While Cardinal Henry’s patronage of painting, sculpture and poetry is well known, his patronage of sacred music, after he was made a cardinal by Pope Benedict XIV in 1747, is a subject hitherto entirely untouched by modern scholarship . Bolis, whose music has languished in obscurity for nearly 250 years, has now become one of my principal research focuses: over several years, I have transcribed and edited many sacred works which Bolis composed for Cardinal Henry at S . Lorenzo in Damaso between 1778 and the mid-1790s . Bolis’s music is demonstrably fresh, modern and appealing, the product of a master who could turn his hand to any idiom, whether penitential, celebratory or reverently contemplative . His remarkable stylistic flexibility can make us sigh,

First page of the Miserere by Sebastiano Bolis, 1790 .

laugh or cry, and it is no wonder that Henry Benedict supported him so fervently and without question . My first task was to transcribe as much of this music as I could, partly as a way of fully understanding the style of a composer who is entirely new to modern English-speaking musicology (and, as far as Italian musicologists are concerned, known by name to only a few), but also as a way of setting it in the context of its time and place . I also decided it was now time to dive head first into the vast 40-volume ecclesiastical diary kept by Cardinal Henry’s secretary, Giovanni Landò, held by the British Library in London . This source has been largely avoided by scholars of Jacobite history, perhaps because one of its 19th-century detractors, James Dennistoun, described it as a “heap of puerile prolixity” . Not only does the Landò diary reveal much about the involvement of Bolis in the provision of sacred music for Cardinal Henry, but it also confirms his role as maestro di cappella at two of the

principal venues for Henry’s patronage of sacred music – the church of S . Lorenzo in Damaso and the cathedral at Frascati, where Henry was bishop from 1761 . The Landò diary also contains references to music which Bolis provided for Carnival and Lent at Frascati, as well as the names of many other composers directly or indirectly associated with Cardinal Henry . From 1778 (the year in which Bolis succeeded Giovanni Battista Costanzi as maestro di cappella) onwards, Bolis provided new sacred works for S . Lorenzo on a regular basis, one of the most important occasions being the patronal feast, 10 August . Having dusted off centuries of obscurity and neglect, it soon became apparent to me that, through the music of Bolis and his contemporaries, I was revealing two forgotten phenomena, the fabulous music of a Roman composer who deserves modern recognition, and the musical patronage of a cardinal who had for far too long been resolutely denounced (Cont. page 9) September 2017 | Wanted in Rome

SACRED MUSIC

performances of three sacred works by Sebastiano Bolis (c .1750–1804) . Both concerts will include a number of contrasting, sacred choral works by contemporary British and American composers, including Eric Whitacre, James Macmillan, Peter Leech and Lawrence Whitehead . Admission to both concerts is free . On Sunday 17 September Harmonia Sacra has been invited to provide the music for the Capitular Mass at St Peter’s Basilica in the Vatican, at 10 .30 .

PETER LEECH Born in Australia in 1967, Dr Peter Leech is a professional choral and orchestral conductor, musicologist, composer, singer, keyboard player and lecturer based at the School of Music at Cardiff University, UK .

Title page of the Miserere by Sebastiano Bolis, 1790 .

by Whig historians as a pompous irrelevancy . The music of Bolis and his contemporaries, as well as the patronage of Henry Benedict Stuart should be of interest to anyone with a passion for the Rome of Johann Winckelmann and Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, of Pompeo Batoni and Charles Burney, the Rome that was a magnificent melting pot of artists, writers and musicians – indeed, the Rome of the Grand Tour . The two forthcoming concerts in Rome provide a wonderful opportunity to bring the music of Bolis and his Roman contemporaries back to life and to demonstrate the discerning musical taste and patronage of Cardinal Henry Benedict Stuart, who deserves to be ranked alongside Cardinal Pietro Ottoboni as one of the leading musical patrons in 18th-century Rome .PETER

ROME CONCERTS Harmonia Sacra gives its first Rome concert at the Church of the SS XII Apostoli, Piazza dei SS Apostoli 51, on Friday 15 September at 20 .00 . This will include the first modern performance in Rome of some of the music composed by Giuseppe Ottavio Pitoni (1657–1743) for the Requiem of Maria Clementina Sobieska Stuart, the wife of Charles Francis Edward Stuart, the Old Pretender, which took place at the SS XII Apostoli in 1735 . The choir’s second concert will take place at the Church of S . Lorenzo in Damaso, Piazza della Cancelleria 1 on Saturday 16 September at 19 .15 . This will feature the first modern

He specialises in English court music (1600–1750), music of the British Catholic community and its continental European diaspora (1600–1800) and European sacred music (1550–1800), and he has published widely . In 2003, at the Concorso Internazionale per Direttori di Coro “Mariele Ventre” in Bologna, he won first prize and was awarded the Coppa d’Argento del Presidente della Repubblica; and he subsequently appeared at the 2005 Ravenna Festival directing Coro Euridice from Bologna . He is currently engaged in further research on 17th- and early 18th-century English Jesuit musicians and is preparing a cultural biography of Cardinal Henry Benedict Stuart (1725–1807) .

September 2017 | Wanted in Rome

LANGUAGE

Martin Bennett

ITALIAN AND ANGLICISMI

A loose lexicon of new and amusing terms are creeping into the Italian language thanks to the internet and English

ired of wading through the political pages of, say, La Repubblica or Corriere della Sera – their column tracing who’s in power, who’s out, who’s trasversalmente / transversally in-between? A football commentary on the local radio – live or, as sometimes one realises too late, from a month or season gone by seems so much gabble? The offerings of the opinionaters on so-or-such a talkshow (It/Eng) appear a waste of breath? Apply some word-watching and all three pastimes take on a fresh interest: from whichever source, that ingenious new coinage – anglicismo or otherwise – lingers in the memory long after whatever else was said is forgotten, imparting zest to worn-out thoughts . The latest edition of Zingarelli’s dictionary includes 500 such terms . Many come – clic-clic – via the internet . Linkare, matchare, googlare, fotoscioppare, taggare, each in all its 50 or so conjugations . Accademia della Crusca, the Italian language watchdog, seems powerless to stop them . So we find that someone is molto twittato, even absurder sounding in Italian than in the original Eng-

Wanted in Rome | September 2017

The celebrated Italian architect - or archistar - Renzo Piano .

lish . The latest cinepannetone / Christmas movie as a form of Italian festive cake pokes fun at the same phenomenon . One tourist on a Caribbean cruise gets marooned . Eventually his cruise ship reappears, but passengers and crew – cliccando, googlando, twittando

– are all so glued to their iPhones, the desperate Robinson Crusoe ends up ignored . Defriendato, here in the real rather than the virtual click-of-mouse sense . If computing spawns one set of neologisms, the world of work has spawned

LANGUAGE

Accademia della Crusca is powerless against the increasing usage of anglicisms in the Italian language .

another . Daytime television features il tronista . This for a figure – exclusively and vaingloriously male – catapulted to pseudo-royal status, playing court to a series of presumably paid females who compete for his attentions and/or sometimes insults in their regard . Other ‘-istas’ include staffista / component of the staff following a pop-star or politician; pullmanista / coach driver; giraffista / film cameraman with a high reach; fanfarista / one making, yes, you guessed it, a fanfare . To change suffix, there’s archistar for the likes of celebrated Italian architect Renzo Piano, then, less complimentarily, qualcosatore / somebody who’ll do anything, though one doesn’t know quite what . Excuse the traducese, a pejorative for flat translation . (Dorothy Sayers’ laboured version of Dante’s Divine Comedy springs to mind, as English with its comparative rhyme-shortage tries flabbily to keep up with Dante’s taut, muscular often mesmerising terza rima .) A new entry some years back was hostess: “Companion, interpreter . Formerly associated with air travel and then, more and more in Italy, with

erotic distractions on land”, to quote Giuseppe Pontiggia’s book Le sabbie immobili . For word-watchers any media offering is grist to the mill . Donald Trump, for his questionable rapport with the truth and his knack of turning it to his advantage, has earned the nickname of Trumpusconi, after another more local politician with already more than his fair share of publicity . Meanwhile Corriera della Sera notes the American demagogue’s tocco da bulldozer, here the anglicism being much more expressive than the Italian, and unsuitably feminine, scavatrice . Elsewhere we get roadmap, quel pulsante di reset, i raid aerei, divieto di export, dei big pentastellati, which is nothing to do with astronomy but with Beppe Grillo’s generals, and omogenitoriale – with same-gender parents . The same side of narcissism and fanta-politica as Trumpusconi, a leader is often self-cited with a closing and emphatically rhotic ‘r’ . Covering a multitude of gaffes, a more grandiose alternative might be statista . Less flattering, but more accurate in some cases is qualunquista / “whateverer” to attempt a less sonorous English equivalent .

Sometimes Latin and Anglo-Saxon co-create a happy alliterative mix of which the bard of Beowulf could be proud . A piece on Tony Hadley, exSpandau Ballet front man, has “Non trascurare i crooner” . By the same token commercio flop is more effective than the more standard commercio fallito . The poetry might also be a mere monosyllable, as in the pithy sboom / economic slump . On the lexical front, sport also offers a whole new ball game . A recent book is titled ‘I bomber giallorossi .’ It deals not with colourful warplanes but with AS Roma football club’s bomber (anglicismi plurals lose the final ‘s’) / star-strikers – Batistuta (or “Battigol”) of more distant memory, the recently-retired Totti and a host of others . Regarding commentaries, anglicismi come fast and furious, as in pressing; English and Italian clash or combine or both . Palla out, fanno attack, il grido del suo team . Football writers also adapted the curse of Brexit to the vagaries of last summer’s transfer market . So we have Dzekxit to describe a muted sell-off of Edin Dzeko, Roma’s sometimes underperforming striker . The rival Lazio camp September 2017 | Wanted in Rome

BALLET

Soirée Roland Petit TEATRO COSTANZI SEPTEMBER 8 - 14

CHOREOGRAPHY

ROLAND PETIT RESTAGED BY

LUIGI BONINO PRINCIPAL DANCERS, SOLOISTS AND CORPS DE BALLET OF THE TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA A TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA PRODUCTION

BALLET

Giselle MUSIC BY

TEATRO COSTANZI SEPTEMBER 20 - 24

CONDUCTOR

NICOLAE MOLDOVEANU CHOREOGRAPHY

PATRICIA RUANNE ORCHESTRA, PRINCIPAL DANCERS, SOLOISTS AND CORPS DE BALLET OF THE TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA A TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA PRODUCTION

operaroma.it

SOCI FONDATORI

SOCI PRIVATI

AUTOMOTIVE PARTNER

VETTORE UFFICIALE

Ettore Festa, HaunagDesign. Illustrazioni di Gianluigi Toccafondo

ADOLPHE ADAM

LANGUAGE

A recent mural of Francesco Totti, of Tottigol fame, on Via Licia in Rome’s Porta Metronia district . Photo Corriere della Sera .

scored linguistically with Bielxit for the defection of the club’s potential manager, Marcelo Bielsa, after just two days to coach Argentina’s national squad instead . Not that Italian cannot manage perfectly well on its own . So minutaggio / count down to the final whistle . Speaking of which, we have the pejorative as in Garcia fischiatissimo (or with a very low reading on the applausometro), the same manager re-named by Rome’s ultra community Garvia . Consider from the same paper, “José Mourinho, special one, straripante di charisma e di ego ipertrofico .” Pure English couldn’t express in better . Then again omicini senza palle; or, in similar joining of football and anatomy, “Che palle questo pallone!”, as wife might complain to soccer-obsessed husband . Another lexical source is la cronaca nera / the crime pages . Especially when they criss-cross with the political ones .

The maxi-processo in Rebibbia’s aula bunker of those arrested in the Mafia Capitale scandal was linguistically fascinating . Not just furto / theft, God forbid, given the massive sums involved, but its semantic upgrade – the almost virtuous-sounding Associazione a delinquere . In the same vein is “questa somma cash senza la deliberazione dell’organo sociale competente e senza l’iscrizione dell’erogazione a bilancio .” Attempting to translate into plain English might constitute a misdemeanour . At street level new entries are not lacking either . To cite another article, beware, stranieri solati / swindled foreigners, of conti salatissimi . Nothing to do with excessive amounts of salt, but over-priced bills . Meanwhile, if someone calls you er duca, you’re not being praised for your blue blood, but teased for being follically challenged . Duca (minus a capital d) is short for due capelli / two hairs .

Similarly Cerbo! abbreviates C’è er bordello . Not a street direction to a house of ill repute, but a reaction to a state of confusion . Romanesco, like Cockney, goes in for eating not only consonants but whole syllables . It occasionally enters the mainstream, sanctioned by Zanichelli, no less .

The mythical political character Trumpusconi . September 2017 | Wanted in Rome

ROME’S MAJOR

MUSEUMS VATICAN MUSEUMS

FOR MORE DETAILS SEE WWW.MUSEIINCOMUNEROMA.IT AND WWW.BENICULTURALI.IT.

Below is a list of the major museums and archaeological sites in Rome . Book tickets for many Rome museums and archaeological sites on tel . 060608 or online at www .060608 .it . Book tickets for the Borghese Museum, Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia, Palazzo Barberini and Palazzo Corsini online at www.beniculturali.it.

Vatican Museums

Viale del Vaticano, tel . 0669883860, mv .vatican .va . Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca . MonSat 09 .00-18 .00 . Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08 .30-12 .30) . All times refer to last entry . For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel . 0669884667 . For private tours (museum only) tel . 0669884947 . Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday . Advance booking online: www .biglietteriamusei .vatican .va . PATRONS OF THE ARTS IN THE VATICAN MUSEUMS Tel . 0669881814, www .vatican-patrons . org . For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums . STATE MUSEUMS BATHS OF DIOCLETIAN Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel . 0639967700, www .archeoroma .beniculturali .it . Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo . 09 .00-19 .45 . Mon closed . BORGHESE MUSEUM Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel . 06328101, www .galleria . borghese .it . Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio . 09 .00-19 .30 . Mon closed . Entry times at 09 .00, 11 .00, 13 .00 15 .00, 17 .00 . Guided tours in English and Italian . CASTEL S. ANGELO MUSEUM Lungotevere Castello 50, tel . 066819111, www .castelsantangelo . com . Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace . 09 .00-19 .00 . Mon closed . COLOSSEUM, ROMAN FORUM AND PALATINE Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo . Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S . Maria Nova 53 and Via di S . Gregorio 30 . Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S . Maria Nova 53, tel . 0639967700, www .colosseo-roma .it . 08 .30-19 .15 . Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing) . Guided tours in English and Italian .

Wanted in Rome | September 2017

CRYPTA BALBI Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel . 0639967700, www .archeologia .beniculturali .it . Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus . 09 .00-19 .00 . Mon closed . Guided tours in Italian . ETRUSCAN MUSEUM AT VILLA GIULIA Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel . 063226571, villagiulia .beniculturali .it . National museum of Etruscan civilisation . 08 .3019 .30 . Mon closed .

of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid . Tues-Sun 11 .00-19 .00, Thurs and Sat 11 .00-22 .00 . Mon closed . PALAZZO CORSINI Via della Lungara, 10, tel . 0668802323, www .galleriaborghese .it/corsini/en . National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family . 08 .3019 .30 . Tues closed .

GALLERIA NAZIONALE D’ARTE MODERNA Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel . 06322981, www .gnam .beniculturali .it . 08 .3019 .30 . Mon closed .

MUSEO NAZIONALE D’ARTE ORIENTALE Via Merulana 248, tel . 0646974832, www .museorientale .it . Interesting national collection of oriental art with some special exhibitions from its own collection and special loans . Tues, Wed, and Fri . 09 .00-14 .00 . Thurs, Sat, Sun . 09 .00-19 .30 . Mon closed . Guided tours in Italian on Sun (11 .00 and 17 .00) .

MAXXI Via Guido Reni 6, tel . 063210181, www . fondazionemaxxi .it . National Museum

PALAZZO ALTEMPS Piazza S . Apollinare 46, tel . 0639967700, www .archeoroma .beniculturali .it . An-

Castel S . Angelo

Roman Forum

cient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection . 09 .00-19 .45 . Mon closed . PALAZZO BARBERINI Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel . 064824184, www .galleriabarberini . beniculturali .it . National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings . 08 .3019 .30 . Mon closed . PALAZZO MASSIMO ALLE TERME Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel . 0639967700, www .archeoroma .beniculturali .it . Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection . 09 .0019 .45 . Mon closed . VILLA FARNESINA Via della Lungara 230, tel . 0668027268, www .villafarnesina .it . A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael . Mon-Sat 9 .00-14 .00 excluding holidays . CITY MUSEUMS CENTRALE MONTEMARTINI Via Ostiense 106, tel . 060608, en .centralemontemartini .org . Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant . 09 .00-19 .00 . Mon closed . Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance . CAPITOLINE MUSEUMS Piazza del Campidoglio, tel . 060608, en .museicapitolini .org . The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca . 09 .00-20 .00 . Mon closed . Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun . GALLERIA COMUNALE D’ARTE MODERNA Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel . 060608, www .museiincomuneroma .it . The mu-

nicipal modern art collection . 10 .0018 .00 . Mon closed . MACRO Via Nizza 138, tel . 060608, www . en .museomacro .org . The city’s collection of contemporary art, plus temporary exhibition space . 10 .30-19 .00 . Mon closed . Also MACRO Testaccio, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel . 060608 . Open for temporary exhibitions 14 .00-20 .00 . Mon closed . MUSEO BARRACCO Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel . 0668806848, www .mdbr .it . A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture . 09 .0019 .00 . Mon closed . MUSEO CANONICA Viale P . Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel . 060608, www .museocanonica .it . The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959 . 09 .00-19 .00 . Mon closed . Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance) . MUSEO DEI FORI IMPERIALI AND TRAJAN’S MARKETS Via IV Novembre 94, tel . 060608, en .mercatiditraiano .it . Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace . 09 .00-19 .00 . Mon closed . MUSEO NAPOLEONICO Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel . 060608, www .museonapoleonico .it . Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family . 09 .0019 .00 . Mon closed . Guided tours in Italian and English . MUSEO DI ROMA – PALAZZO BRASCHI Via S . Pantaleo 10, tel . 060608, en .museodiroma .it . The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century . 09 .00-19 .00 . Mon closed . Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel . 0682059127 .

PRIVATE MUSEUMS CASA DI GOETHE Via del Corso 18, tel . 0632650412, www . casadigoethe .it . Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe . 10 .0018 .00 . Mon closed . CHIOSTRO DEL BRAMANTE Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists . Arco della Pace 5, tel . 0668809035, www .chiostrodelbramante .it . DORIA PAMPHILJ GALLERY Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel . 066797323, www .doriapamphilj .it . Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio . 09 .00-19 .00 . GALLERIA COLONNA Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel . 066784350, www .galleriacolonna .it . Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci . Sat 09 .00-13 .00 only . Private group tours are available seven days a week on request . For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance . GIORGIO DE CHIRICO HOUSE MUSEUM Piazza di Spagna 31, tel . 066796546, www .fondazionedechirico .org . Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico . Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10 .00, 11 .00, 12 .00 . Guided tours in English, advance booking . KEATS-SHELLEY HOUSE Piazza di Spagna 26, tel . 066784235, www . keats-shelley-house .it . Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron . Mon-Sat 10 .00-13 .00, 14 .00-18 .00 . Guided tours on prior booking . September 2017 | Wanted in Rome

design@menexa.it · img designlazy

Rome will be ﬁlled again with contemporary art romeartweek.com | October 9th - 14th 2017

Rome Art Week is an innovative project that will involve the whole city of Rome through free events in art galleries and open studios of professional artists. The public will be able to ﬁnd all the info through the site romeartweek.com with the full calendar of the events taking place during the week and with the interactive map.

#romeartweek IDEATION

PATRONAGES

SUPPORTERS

Associazione

MEDIA PARTNERS

PARTNERS

FRIENDS

ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY

ART GALLERIES 1/9 UNOSUNOVE 1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography . Via degli Specchi 20, tel . 0697613696, www .unosunove .com . A.A.M. ARCHITETTURA ARTE MODERNA Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects . Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel . 0668307537, www .ffmaam .it . ASSOCIAZIONE CULTURALE VALENTINA MONCADA Gallery holds exhibitions of international artists who are active in the international scene today . Via Margutta 54, tel . 063207956, www .valentinamoncada .com . DOROTHY CIRCUS GALLERY Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art . Via dei Pettinari 76, tel . 0668805928, www .dorothycircusgallery .com . EX ELETTROFONICA This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists . Vicolo S . Onofrio 10-11, tel . 0664760163, www .exelettrofonica . com . FEDERICA SCHIAVO GALLERY Hosts large solo and group shows of well-known contemporary artists . Piazza di Montevecchio 16, tel . 0645432028, www .federicaschiavo .com . FONDAZIONE GIULIANI PER L’ARTE CONTEMPORANEA The Giuliani Foundation for Contemporary Art is a private non-profit foundation that produces three contemporary art exhibitions each year . Via Gustavo Bianchi 1, tel . 0657301091, www .fondazionegiuliani .org . FONDAZIONE PASTIFICO CERERE This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits . Via degli Ausoni 7, tel . 0645422960, www .pastificiocerere . com .

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

FONDAZIONE MEMMO Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions . Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel . 0668136598, www . fondazionememmo .it .

GALLERIA FRAMMENTI D’ARTE Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists . Via Paola 23, tel . 069357144142, www .fdaproject .com .

FONDAZIONE VOLUME! The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape . Via di S . Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel . 06 6892431, www .fondazionevolume . com .

GALLERIA LORCAN O’NEILL High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori . Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel . 0668892980, www .lorcanoneill .com .

FRANZ PALUDETTO Gallery in S . Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists . Via degli Ausoni 18, www .franzpaludetto .com . FRUTTA This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space . Via Giovanni Pascoli 21, tel . 06 68210988, www .fruttagallery .com . GAGOSIAN GALLERY The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art . Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel . 0642086498, www .gagosian .com . Galleria della Tartaruga

GALLERIA MARIE-LAURE FLEISCH This contemporary art space is dedicated to exhibiting works on paper . Via di Pallacorda 15, tel . 0668891936, www .galleriamlf .com . GALLERIA DELLA TARTARUGA Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975 . Via Sistina 85/A, tel . 066788956, www .galleriadellatartaruga .com . GALLERIA IL SEGNO Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italian and international artists since 1957 . Via Capo le Case 4, tel . 066791387, www .galleriailsegno .com . GALLERIA MUCCIACCIA Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents . Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel . 0669923801, www .galleriamucciaccia .com . GIACOMO GUIDI ARTE CONTEMPORANEA This contemporary art gallery presents exhibitions from a diverse group of Italian and foreign artists . Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Corso V . Emanuele II 282-284, tel . 0668801038, www .giacomoguidi .it . September 2017 | Wanted in Rome

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

GALLERIA VARSI A small but dynamic gallery near Campo de’ Fiori, known for its stable of street artists . Via di S . Salvatore in Campo 51, tel . 0668309410, www .galleriavarsi .it .

OPERATIVA ARTE CONTEMPORANEA A new space oriented towards younger artists . Via del Consolato 10, www .operativa-arte .com .

Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work . Piazza Dante 2, int . 7/A, tel . 0677591122, www . galleriasales .it .

IL PONTE CONTEMPORANEA Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations . Via di Panico 5559, tel . 0668801351, www .ilpontecontemporanea .com .

PIAN DE’ GIULLARI Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions . Via dei Cappellari 49, tel . 339 / 7254235, 366 / 3988603, www .piandegiullari2 . blogspot .com .

T293 The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions . Via G . M . Crescimbeni 11, tel . 0688980475, www .t293 .it .

LA NUOVA PESA Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists . Via del Corso 530, tel . 063610892, www .nuovapesa .it . MAC MAJA ARTE CONTEMPORANEA Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists . Via di Monserrato 30, www .majartecontemporanea .com . MAGAZZINO D’ARTE MODERNA Contemporary art galley that focuses on young and emerging artists . Via dei Prefetti 17, tel . 066875951, www .magazzinoartemoderna .com . MONITOR This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists . Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, tel . 0639378024, www .monitoronline .org . MONSERRATO ARTE ‘900 This gallery in the Campo de’ Fiori area represents a range of contemporary Italian artists . Via di Monserrato 14, tel . 348/2833034 . MONTORO12 Gallery promoting work by contemporary Italian and international artists . Via di Montoro 12, tel . 0668308500, www . m12gallery .com . NOMAS FOUNDATION Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions . Viale Somalia 33, tel . 0686398381, www .nomasfoundation .com .

Wanted in Rome | September 2017

PLUS ARTE PULS Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists . Viale Mazzini 1, tel . 335 / 7010795, www .plusartepuls .com . RvB ARTS Rome-based gallery specialising in affordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists . Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel . 3351633518, www . rvbarts .com . SALA 1 This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music . Piazza di Porta S . Giovanni 10, tel . 067008691, www . salauno .com . SPAZIO NUOVO Gallery featuring international photographers who create dialogue between classical and contemporary art . Via d’Ascanio 20, tel . 0689572855, www . spazionuovo .net . S.T. FOTO LIBRERIA GALLERIA Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography . Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel . 0664760105, www .stsenzatitolo .it . STUDIO SALES DI NORBERTO RUGGERI The gallery exhibits pieces by both

THE GALLERY APART This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world . Via Francesco Negri 43, tel . 0668809863, www .thegalleryapart .it . TRALEVOLTE This contemporary art gallery focuses on the relationship between art and architecture and hosts many solo and group shows of Italian and international artists . Piazza di Porta S . Giovanni 10, tel . 0670491663, www .tralevolte .org . VALENTINA BONOMO Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works specifically for the gallery space . Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel . 066832766, www .galleriabonomo .com . WUNDERKAMMERN This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art . Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel . 0645435662, www . wunderkammern .net . Z20 GALLERIA SARA ZANIN Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria offers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists . Via della Vetrina 21, tel . 0670452261, www .z2ogalleria .it .

WHERE TO GO IN ROME

Monet exhibition at the Vittoriano . Nymphéas (1916-1919)

his first wife, the Russian ballet dancer Olga Khokhlova in Rome while he designed the costumes and sets from the ballet Parade . The 100 works on display range fro 1915 to 1925, comprising Cubism to Classicism, with loans from major museums in Barcelona, Berlin, London, Paris and New York . The show includes masterpieces such as Olga in an Armchair (1917), Léonide Massine as Harelquin (1917), Two Women Running on the Beach (1922), and Harelquin with mirror (1923) . In addition to the Scuderie, Palazzo Barberini hosts an immense canvas that Picasso painted as the backdrop for Parade, the reason for his arrival in Italy in February 1917 . Scuderie del Quirinale, Via XXIV Maggio 16, tel . 0639967500, www .scuderiequirinale .it .

ENJOY: L’ARTE INCONTRA IL DIVERTIMENTO 23 Sept-18 Feb With the subtitle Art Meets Fun, this immersive exhibition promises modern art works and site-specific installations by some of the “most prominent and provocative protagonists of contemporary art” . Highlights of the show include the light sculptures of Alexander Calder, the neverending labyrinth of Leandro Erlich’s mirrors, the disturbing eye installations of Tony Oursler and the spectacular illusory effects of TeamLab’s light works . Chiostro del Bramante, Via Arco della Pace 5, tel . 06916508451, www .chiostrodelbramante .it .

Enjoy exhibition at Chiosto del Bramante . Prisma meccanico (1967) by Piero Fogliati .

EXHIBITIONS MONET 19 Oct-28 Jan The Vittoriano hosts an exhibition dedicated to Monet, the father of Impressionism, with some 60 works from the Musée Marmottan Monet in Paris, including landscapes, portraits and his celebrated garden series of water lilies . Complesso del Vittoriano - Ala Brasini di Roma, Via di S . Pietro in Carcere (Piazza Venezia), www .ilvittoriano .com . HOKUSAI: SULLE ORME DEL MAESTRO 12 Oct-14 Jan This exhibition at the Ara Pacis promises to be one of the big shows to look forward to in Rome this autumn . More than 200 works by Katsushika Hokusai (17601849) will be displayed including The Great Wave and One Hundred Views of Mount Fuji . The exhibition will comprise Hokusai’s entire collected works, including drawings and paintings, displayed in two phases to protect the most fragile works, including two different versions of The Great Wave . Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta, tel . 06820771, www . arapacis .it . REAL BODIES 30 Sept-10 Feb Exhibition dedicated to the human body and its organs, muscles and skeletal system . The highlight of the 350 exhibits is the series of 12 entire bodies immortalised in a variety of sporting positions, such as running and jumping, demonstrating how our muscles and tendons work . The exhibition also provides anatomical insights into the human reproduction process as well as showing the impact of disease on internal organs . Guido Reni District, Via Guido Reni 7, www .realbodies .it .

PICASSO: TRA CUBISMO E CLASSICISMO 1915-1925 22 Sept-21 Jan The Scuderie del Quirinale presents one of the largest exhibitions ever dedicated to Picasso in Italy, a century after the artist set foot in the country . The exhibition examines Italy’s long-term impact on Picasso’s work – his inspiration from ancient Roman statues and erotic frescoes in Pompeii – and his private life – he met

DAVIDE BALULA: IRON LEVELS 21 Sept-18 Nov The Gagosian shows new works by French artist Davide Balula who is known for his paintings, sculptures, photographs, performances, and sitespecific installations that combine elements of natural matter with manmade structures . Balula’s Rome exhibition comprises an “experiential journey, intimately connected with the architecture of the space .” Gagosian Gallery, Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel . 0642086498, www . gagosian .com . TRA CIGLIA E PENSIERO 18 Sept-11 Nov AlbumArte presents an exhibition by the Lithuanian artist Eglė Budvytytė whose video works are shown in Italy for the first time . The selection of performance videos reflect on the social and economic aspects of everyday life, blending reality with fiction . Born in 1982, Budvytytė works between Vilnius and Amsterdam . AlbumArte, Via Flaminia 122, tel . 063243882, www .albumarte . org .

Katsushika Hokusai exhibition at the Ara Pacis . The Great Wave off Kanagawa.

Wanted in Rome | September 2017

essential in transforming Hollywood actors into stars . The show is a who’s-who of Hollywood royalty, ranging from silent screen legend Charlie Chaplin to the first stars of sound films including Marlene Dietrich, Joan Crawford, Clark Gable and Cary Grant, and ending with postwar cinema giants such as Marlon Brando, Paul Newman, Marilyn Monroe and Sophia Loren . The exhibition comprises around 160 images by more than 50 photographers . Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Via Nazionale 194, tel . 0639967500, www .palazzoesposizioni .it .

Picasso: Tra Cubismo e Classicismo 1915-1925 exhibition at the Scuderie del Quirinale . Sipario per il balletto Parade. See page 20.

EPOS: CHAO GE 26 July-26 Sept The exhibition highlights the work of contemporary Chinese artist Chao Ge featuring 100 works depicting landscapes and characters from central Asia and inner Mongolia . Under the subheading La lirica della luce (The poetry of light), the exhibition comprises paintings and drawings created over the last 30 years . Complesso del Vittoriano, Via S . Pietro in Carcere, www .ilvittoriano .com .

STILL SHOWING ANOTHER LOOK 6 July-16 Sept Daniele Tamagni’s photographs on the theme of youth fashion and counterculture in the urban centres of modernday Africa are shown in Rome for the first time at the Galleria del Cembalo . Under the sub-heading Sguardi e stili di un’Africa in movimento, the exhibition ranges from dandies in Brazzaville and heavy metal cowboys in Gaborone to young Johannesburg dancers and creative designers in Nairobi and Dakar . Galleria del Cembalo, Palazzo Borghese, Largo della Fontanella di Borghese 19, tel . 0683796619, www .galleriadelcembalo .it . CONTATTO: SENTIRE LA PITTURA CON LE MANI 28 June-1 Oct A small, tactile exhibition at Palazzo Braschi encourages seeing and non-seeing visitors to experience four famous works of art whose images have been transformed into three-dimensional panels . The four paintings reproduced in tablet form are the Lamentation over the Dead Christ by Correggio Parma, Galleria Nazionale), the Penitent Magdalene by Caravaggio (from Rome’s Galleria Doria Pamphilj), the Prophet Isaiah by Raphael, and the Madonna of the pilgrims by Caravaggio (both from the church of S . Agostino in Rome) . Palazzo Braschi, Pi-

azza di S . Pantaleo 10, tel . 060608, www . museodiroma .it . GALLERIA NAZIONALE 26 June-24 Sept The Galleria Nazionale presents two exhibitions running concurrently: / Uncinematic comprises a selection of films made between 2005 and 2014 by Greek artist George Drivas, currently representing Greece at the 57th Venice Biennale . Corpo a corpo | Body To Body concentrates on body and performance art from the 1960s and 1970s, featuring artists such as Claudio Abate, Marina Abramović & Ulay, Renate Bertlmann, Claire Fontaine, Chiara Fumai, Silvia Giambrone and Francesca Woodman . Galleria Nazionale, Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel . 0632298221, www .lagallerianazionale .com . HOLLYWOOD ICONS: PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN KOBAL FOUNDATION 4 June-17 Sept This exhibition of photographs from the John Kobal Foundation sheds light on the photographers whose images were

Epos: Chao Ge exhibition at the Vittoriano . Vestita con eleganza.

FROM DUCHAMP TO CATTELAN 28 June-29 Oct For the second consecutive year the Palatine hill hosts an outdoor exhibition of contemporary art until the end of October . This convergence of ancient and contemporary unites 100 artists, from

Another Look: Sguardi e stili di un’Africa in movimento at Galleria del Cembalo . The Smarteez. September 2017 | Wanted in Rome

tion, and today the most celebrated photographic collective in Germany . There are more than 250 photographs by 22 photographers on display, dating from the fall of the Berlin Wall until the modern day . Museo di Roma in Trastevere, Piazza S . Egidio 1B, tel . 065816563, www . museodiromaintrastevere .it .

25 countries, whose large-scale installations, paintings and photographs are exposed under two themes decided by curator Alberto Fiz: Portraits and Hands . The exhibition includes work by international artists such as Gilbert and George, Allan McCollum, Marina Abramovic, Barbara Kruger and Joseph Kosuth, alongside Italian big names Mario Schifano, Mauro Staccioli and Maurizio Cattelan . Forum Palatino, Via di S . Gregorio 30, www .electa .it/mostre/alt-arte-contemporanea-al-palatino .

YONA FRIEDMAN. MOBILE ARCHITECTURE, PEOPLE’S ARCHITECTURE 23 June-29 Oct Exhibition of models, drawings and installations by Yona Friedman, the Hungarianborn French architect, urban planner and designer who was influential in the late 1950s and early 1960s . Friedman is best known for his theory of mobile architecture, a utopian concept which promoted the building of superstructures suspended over existing cities to avoid the need for extra land space . Central to his manifesto were three requirements: buildings should touch the ground over a minimum area, be capable of being dismantled and moved, and be alterable as required by the individual occupant . MAXXI Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4, tel . 0632810, www .fondazionemaxxi .it .

OSTKREUZ 24 June-17 Sept Retrospective telling the history of the photo agency Ostkreuz, founded in 1990 by photographers from East Germany in the immediate aftermath of reunifica-

ZAHA HADID AND ITALY 23 June-28 Jan MAXXI hosts an exhibition dedicated to the Italian projects of the late architect Zaha Hadid, including the recentlyopened Terminal Marittimo in Salerno,

Corpo a corpo | Body To Body exhibition at Galleria Nazionale. Goldschmied & Chiari, Removal Device #30 from the series Genealogy of Damnatio Memoriae.

the Messner Mountain Museum in Plan de Corones, the almost complete City Life project in Milan and the MAXXI building itself . The exhibition comprises plans and three-dimensional models designed by the Iraqi architect, who had an intensive and enduring relationship with Italy until her death in March last year . MAXXI Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI Secolo, Via Guido Reni 4, tel . 0632810, www .fondazionemaxxi .it .

Hollywood Icons exhibition at Palazzo delle Esposizioni . Lupe Velez by George Hurrell, 1931 . Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer © John Kobal Foundation . See page 21 .

GIANCARLO LIMONI: IL GIARDINO DEL TEMPO 21 June-17 Sept Exhibition featuring 25 large paintings by Giancarlo Limoni who belonged to the Nuova Scuola Romana, an art movement which brushed aside 1980s trends of minimalism and conceptualism in favour of a return to more traditional painting methods . The works on display, created between 1980 and 2017, illustrate the artist’s diverse influences, from Turner to Monet . Two of his works featured on covers of Wanted in Rome, in July 2011 and August 2017 . MACRO Testaccio, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel 065742647, www .museomacro .org .

Zaha Hadid exhibition at MAXXI . Messner Mountain Museum in Plan de Corones .

Wanted in Rome | September 2017

SILVIA CODIGNOLA: AUTOBIOGRAFIA DELLA MADRE 17 June-17 Sept Rome-based artist Silvia Codignola’s exhibition of 40 paintings, drawings and sculptures focuses on the relationship between mother and baby, examining the newborn’s journey into childhood . Museo Carlo Bilotti - Aranciera, Viale Fiorello La Guardia 4, tel . 060608, www . museocarlobilotti .it .

d’Ottavia 13, tel . 066832766, www .galleriabonomo .com . IL MERAVIGLIOSO MONDO Dl WAL 20 May-1 Oct Exhibition showcasing the “wonderful world” of Walter Guidobaldi, or Wal, and 50 of his fantasy works made of marble, bronze and terracotta . Wal is known for his sculptures – both monumental and tiny – featuring mischievous cherubs and animals such as owls, cats, rabbits, piglets and penguins . Casina delle Civette, Via Nomentana 70, tel . 060608, www .museivillatorlonia .it .

Luigi Ontani exhibition at Accademia Nazionale di S . Luca . Ciclo di 8 acquarelli per Poesie .

PIRANESI: LA FABBRICA DELL’UTOPIA 16 June-15 Oct Palazzo Braschi presents more than 200 prints by architect and engraver Giovan Battista Piranesi (1720-1778), known for his masterful understanding of perspective and the almost threedimensional quality of his engravings . The exhibition features Piranesi’s celebrated Vedute di Roma series, including the archaeological heritage of the capital, where the Venetian artist moved in 1740 . Museo di Roma Palazzo Braschi, Piazza di S . Pantaleo 10, tel . 060608, www .museodiroma .it . LA BELLEZZA RITROVATA 2 June-26 Nov Art works retrieved by the special

unit of Italy’s carabinieri tasked with the discovery and return of artefacts removed from public and private collections . The exhibition is divided into three sections: works recovered after theft; works saved from earthquake-hit areas of central Italy; and the cultural damage caused by wars . Capitoline Museums, Piazza del Campidoglio 1, tel . 060608, www .museicapitolini .org . SHAZIA SIKANDER 30 May-30 Sept Exhibition of mosaics and works on paper by Shazia Sikander including drawings, video and digital animation . Sikander’s diverse themes range from geopolitical changes and migration, to religion and human identity . Galleria Valentina Bonomo, Via del Portico

Silvia Codignola exhibition at Museo Carlo Bilotti . Spiaggia . See page 22 .

Piranesi exhibition at Palazzo Braschi . Veduta interna della Camera sepolcrale nella Villa Casali.

LUIGI ONTANI 17 May-22 Sept The prestigious Accademia Nazionale di S . Luca presents a retrospective of the work of Luigi Ontani, considered one of Italy’s most innovative contemporary artists . The exhibition comprises 60 works, ranging from large performance photographs of the early 1970s to his distinctive ceramic sculptures . Since the late 1960s Ontani has experimented with an array of media to explore historical, allegorical and mythological themes, and in 2011 his Lapsus Lupus featured on a Wanted in Rome cover . Accademia Nazionale di S . Luca, Piazza dell’Accademia di S . Luca 77, www .accademiasanluca .eu/it . CONVERSATION PIECE 17 May-17 Sept The Galleria Nazionale presents a selection of works from the ”la Caixa” collection of contemporary art, which was founded in 1985 by Spain’s ”la Caixa” banking foundation and now comprises more than 900 pieces . The works on display are by a diverse group of international artists including Fernanda Fragateiro, Donald Judd, Agnes Martin, September 2017 | Wanted in Rome

12 November . The Viaggio nei Fori initiative attracted 140,000 spectators last year, according to the city . Details can be found on website, www .viaggioneifori .it . SPARTACUS: SLAVES AND MASTERS IN ROME 31 March-17 Sept The Ara Pacis uses 250 archaeological finds to examine the complex history of slavery in ancient Rome, with particular focus on the slave revolt led by Spartacus against the Roman Republic between 73 and 71 BC . Museo dell’Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta, tel . 06820771, www .arapacis .it .

Cross the Streets exhibition at MACRO. Elvis Elvis by Ron English .

Juan Muñoz, Joan Hernández Pijuan, Doris Salcedo, Julião Sarmento, Thomas Schütte, Richard Serra, Jana Sterbak, Antoni Tàpies, Ignacio Uriarte, and Rachel Whiteread . Galleria Nazionale, Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel . 0632298221, www .lagallerianazionale .com . CROSS THE STREETS 7 May-1 Oct MACRO celebrates “40 years of Street Art and Writing” with a comprehensive exhibition featuring work by some of the most important Italian and international artists associated with the underground movement . MACRO, Via Nizza 138, tel . 060608, www .museomacro .org . ALESSANDRO TWOMBLY 26 April-30 Sept Galleria Alessandra Bonomo presents the latest works by Alessandro Twombly who is known for his colourful, expressionistic representations of flora . The new creations by the artist, son of the late American abstractionist Cy Twombly, include a bronze sculpture and works on canvas and paper in oil and gouache depicting mirage-like images inspired by landscapes of his childhood . Via del Gesù 62, tel . 0669925858, www .bonomogallery .com . STANZE D’ARTISTA: CAPOLAVORI DEL ‘900 ITALIANO 14 April-1 Oct Exhibition at Rome’s municipal art gallery focusing on Italian masterpieces from the first half of the 20th century . The 60 paintings, sculpture and prints on display are by 12 of Italy’s most important artists from the era: Mario Sironi, Arturo Martini, Ferruccio Ferrazzi, Giorgio de Chirico, Alberto Savinio, Carlo Carrà, Ardengo Soffici, Ottone

Wanted in Rome | September 2017

Rosai, Massimo Campigli, Marino Marini, Fausto Pirandello and Scipione . Galleria d’Arte Moderna di Roma Capitale, Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel . 060608, www .galleriaartemodernaroma .it . PIERO GILARDI: NATURE FOREVER 13 April-15 Oct This exhibition by Piero Gilardi offers a critical examination of today’s society of consumption and technology, highlighting the complex relationship between man and nature . Centred around themes such as ecology, artistic research, and social and political commitment, the exhibition comprises significant works spanning the Turin artist’s 50-year career in art and activism . MAXXI Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4, tel . 0632810, www .fondazionemaxxi .it/en .

Viaggio nei Fori at the Forum of Augustus . Photo Andrea Franceschini .

VIAGGIO NEI FORI 13 April-12 Nov Two outdoor events with music, light projections and historical commentary will be held at the Forum of Caesar and the Forum of Augustus every night until

COLOSSEO: UN’ICONA 8 March-7 Jan 2018 This exhibition uses installations, models and artefacts to shed light on how the Colosseum was used in the centuries after the fall of the Roman empire . The show includes recently-discovered evidence of a 12th-century fortress, which was built into the arena’s ruins by the powerful Frangipane family but collapsed in the 1349 earthquake . The exhibition recounts how the amphitheatre was pillaged for stone, how it was used for stables, slaughterhouses and workshops during the mediaeval era, and how the monument was completely overgrown by the time the Grand Tourists arrived from northern Europe in the 18th century . Colosseum, www .coopculture .it .

ROME ART WEEK RETURNS 9-14 Oct Artists and galleries can register until 15 September for the second edition of Rome Art Week (RAW), the contemporary art festival of free cultural events in Roman galleries and studios . The collaborative, independent and non-profit venture, whose inaugural edition last year attracted more than 25,000 visitors, takes place from 9-14 October . The first edition registered 124 galleries and cultural institutions, with 209 artists producing 207 art events, 153 open studio visits and 99 exhibitions . For details see website, www . romeartweek .com .

See other exhibitions on our website www.wantedinrome.com.

September 2017 | Wanted in Rome

CLASSICAL The seasons of the main musical associations and auditoriums in Rome do not start again until Oct but there are other concerts and musical events throughout Sept, many of them organised by smaller associations . Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4, www .auditoriumconciliazione .it . Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P . de Coubertin 30, www .auditorium .com . Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www .filarmonicaromana .org . The new season starts on 15 Oct . Accademia S. Cecilia, www .santacecilia . it . All the concerts take place at the Auditorium Parco della Musica (see address above) . The new season starts on 5 Oct. Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www .concertiiuc .it . The new season starts mid-Oct. Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www .oratoriogonfalone . com . Usually starts in Nov. RomeConcerts, Methodist Church, Piazza Ponte S . Angelo, www .romeconcerts .it/ Roma Sinfonietta, Auditorium Ennio Morricone, Torvergata, www .romasinfonietta .com . Roma Tre Orchestra, Teatro Palladium, teatropalladium .uniroma3 .it .

MILAN AND TURIN

MITO SETTEMBRE MUSICALE 3-21 Sept This year’s theme of the classical music festival, which is held in both Milan and Turin, is Nature, itself a classical theme . There will be 140 concerts in both cities in a combination of traditional venues and off-beat locations, which will host free concerts every evening . Following on from last year there will also be a short introduction for every concert to help those who know nothing about the work . There is the Open Singing event in both cities, which attracts thousands of people to both Piazza del Duomo in

S . Cecilia’s new season opens with a semi-scenic version of Szymanowski’s Re Roger conducted by Antonio Pappano with the real-time video project by Masbedo .

Milan and Piazza S . Carlo in Turin . The audience is given the music scores so that they can sing along too . Naturally enough there will also be performances of Beethoven’s eternally popular 9th symphony . At weekends there will be a special emphasis on children, a festival within a festival . See www .mitosettembremusica .it .

summer gap when other musical institutions go on holiday . The programme is even more varied this year with choral performances and jazz as well as the piano solos each evening in the Chiostro di Campitelli of Teatro di Marcello from the beginning of July to the end of September . For the programme of concerts see www .tempietto .it .

MILAN

ACCADEMIA FILARMONICA

TEATRO ALLA SCALA

BEETHOVENKLAVIER II 15-Oct-17 Dec This series is the follow-up to the programme which started last year to perform all of Beethoven’s 32 sonatas . In some concerts the Beethoven piece is combined with a new contemporary piece of music . The first evening in this second series is on 15 Oct with Gabriele Carcano playing an early and late Beethoven sonata, opus 28 (Pastoral) and 106 (Hammerklavier) together with the premiere of a sonata by Matteo’s Manzitti, the Genoese composer, conductor and teacher . Beethoven’s piano sonatas were written between 1795 and 1822 and are considered an important bridge between private performances for a small audience and public ones in a concert hall . Sala Casella, Via Flaminia 118, www .filarmonicaromana .org .

DANIELLA BARCELLONA 1 Oct A recital by the Italian soprano Daniella Barcellona, singing music by Schumann, Brahms, Gounod and Rossini . Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodramatici 2, www .teatroallascala .org .

ROME CONCERTI DEL TEMPIETTO FESTIVAL MUSICALE DELLE NAZIONI NOTTI ROMANE A TEATRO MARCELLO 1 July-24 Sept The Tempietto always manages to fill the

ACCADEMIA S. CECILIA MARIA CALLAS MASTER CLASS 16-18 Sept To commemorate Maria Callas on the 40th anniversary of her death . The programme is based on the master classes that the Greek soprano gave at the Julliard School of music after she withdrew

Wanted in Rome | September 2017

from public performances . The part of Callas is taken by Mascia Musy, with music by Verdi, Puccini and Bellini . Teatro Studio Borgna, Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P . de Coubertin 30, www . auditorium .com . RE RUGGERO BY SZYMANOWSKI 5-9 Oct The orchestra and chorus of S . Cecilia conducted by its musical director Antonio Pappano open the season with this opera in semi-scenic form as part of the Romaeuropa festival . Szymanowski’s opera is sometimes known as the Sicilian drama and was written between 1918 and 1924 by the Polish composer . A Guardian review of the Covent Garden premiere described the opera as “a dangerously intoxicating music drama,” a struggle between conservatism and sensuality, between Christian orthodoxy and pagan abandon, between duty and personal desire . Pappano conducted the opera at the 2015 Covent Garden premiere directed by Kasper Holten . An integral part of the semi-scenic version at its S . Cecilia opening is the real-time video project designed by Nicolò Massazza and Iacopo Bedogni of Masbedo . Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P . de Coubertin 30, www .auditorium .com . ISTITUZIONE UNIVERSITARIA DEI CONCERTI ANNA CATERINA ANTONACCI 14 Oct The season beings with a recital by the Italian soprano singing music by Corelli, Colonna, Biber, Monteverdi and Lully . Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www .concertiiuc .it .

The Fureys at Rome’s Scholars Lounge .

BRIAN HOWE 6 Oct This English rock singer-songwriter, best known as former lead vocalist with veteran rock acts Bad Company and Ted Nugent, performs at Jailbreak . Via Tiburtina 870, tel . 0640801376, www .jailbreakliveclub .com . THE FUREYS 7 Dec Tickets are on sale for a concert at Rome’s Scholars Lounge by veteran Irish folk band The Fureys . The group has been performing for almost four decades and is best known for ballads such as I will love you, When you were sweet 16, and The Green fields of France . For tickets contact Scholars Lounge, Via del Plebiscito 101b, tel . 0669202208, www .scholarsloungerome .com .

DANCE MILAN TEATRO ALLA SCALA ONEGIN 23 Sept-18 Oct John Cranko’s Onegin is the first ballet after the summer break, with the Teatro alla Scala ballet company . Roberto Bolle dances the part of Onegin on 23, 26, 28 Sept and 12 and 18 Oct so if you have missed him during his summer performances at numerous festivals up and down Italy here is a chance to see him on his home stage with guest star Marianela Nunez, principal star of the Royal Ballet . The score, based on Tchaikovsky’s music but not on his opera Eugene Onegin, is

POP, ROCK, JAZZ SLOW MAGIC 15 Sept Monk hosts a concert by Slow Magic, a masked musician known for his otherworldly and mesmerising electronic music . Monk, Via Giuseppe Mirri 35, tel . 0664850987, www .monkroma .it . DOUG CRAWFORD 19 Sept American west coast hip-hop rapper Doug Crawford, known for his controversial lyrics, performs at the Big Bang club in Testaccio . For details see “Big Bang Roma” Facebook page . Via di Monte Testaccio 22 .

Slow Magic performs at Monk on 15 Sept . September 2017 | Wanted in Rome

TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA SOIREE ROLAND PETIT 8-14 Sept Choreography by Roland Petit, Carmen, L’Arlesienne, Le Jeune Homme et la Mort . Rebecca Bianchi, star of the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma ballet will dance in L’Arlesienne and Carmen on 11 and 12 Sept . Eleonora Abbagnato, head of the theatre’s ballet, and Stephane Bullion from the Paris Opera Ballet, dance in Le Jeune Homme e la Mort . Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www . operaroma .it .

Kreatur by Sasha Dances opens the Romaeuropa Festival .

orchestrated by Kurt-Heinz Stolze . Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www . teatroallascala .org .

ROVERETO ORIENTE OCCIDENTE 2017 30 Aug-10 Sept Quando corpi incontrano modi e culture is the theme of this year’s contemporary dance and dance theatre festival in the northern Italian city of Rovereto . Each year the programme brings together some of the best new work from both western and eastern dance companies and choreographers . Many of the performances are in the streets and squares, as one of the main concepts behind this festival, which has now been going for 37 years, is that the town becomes the stage on which the events are set . In this way the festival becomes all-inclusive, (inclusion is one of its themes) not only in its subject matter but also in the way it is interpreted . The programme includes Brazilian dance (6 Sept) and performances and workshops by the Taiwan company U Theatre (8-10 Sept) . There are three dance performances by Angelin Preljocaj (7-9 Sept), and the new work in progress by Italy’s dancer-choreographer Irene Russolillo’s The Wave, together with The Speech, which premiered at Rome’s Auditorium Parco della Musica in the 2016 Equilibium dance festival (6 Sept) . For more details see www .orienteoccidente .it .

V at Auditorium Conciliazione (26-27 Sept); Dada Masilo with Giselle at Teatro Olimpico (28 Sept-1 Oct) . In Kreatur, the new Sasha Waltz creation, which opens the festival at Teatro Argentina, dance is set within a context of fashion (Iris van Harpen designs), music (Soundwalk Creative) and lighting (Urs Schönebaum) . Fractus V marks the return of Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui to Romaeuropa Festival with a work on the conflict between information, propaganda and manipulation to the background of words of Noam Chomsky (Auditorium Parco della Musica) . After Swan Lake and Carmen, Dada Masilo moves on to the reinterpretation of another classic, Giselle . Masilo will be dancing with her group of 11 to the music of fellow South African, Philip Miller, and sets by William Kentridge (Teatro Olimpico) . For details of times and location on the festival website, www .romaeuropa .net .

GISELLE 20-24 Sept This classical ballet is choreographed by Patricia Ruanne, with principal dancers, soloists and ballet corps of the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma . Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www . operaroma .it .

TURIN FESTIVAL TORINODANZA 12 Sept-1 Dec The programme for this year’s Turin’s dance festival includes many of the founding names of contemporary dance and choreography - Angelin Preljocal, Jiri Kylian, Lucinda Childs, Nacho Duato, Emio Greco as well as two new works from the company Aterballetto . The festival, which is open to all trends and cultures, starts with Angelin Preljocal’s Romeo and Giulietta (12 Sept) . This is the last year for the festival’s artistic director, Gigi Cristoforetti, who has always placed considerable emphasis on links between the festival and the city . He will hand over

ROME ROMAEUROPA FESTIVAL 20 Sept-2 Dec This year the dance section of this avantgarde multi-disciplinary autumn festival starts with three big names in the world of dance; Sasha Waltz and Guests with Kreatur at Teatro Argentina (20-23 Sept); Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui with Fractus

Wanted in Rome | September 2017

The sixth edition of Roma Fringe Festival takes place at Villa Mercede in the S . Lorenzo area .

stories, from earthquakes to Palestine .” Daily from 19 .30, free entry to villa, performances €6 . For programme details see website, www .romafringefestival .net . ARTCITY 23 May-15 Sept Cultural festival comprising more than 100 events incorporating art, architecture, audiovisual, dance, literature, music and theatre, at museums and cultural sites in the Lazio region . Events take place throughout the summer at Palazzo Venezia, Castel S . Angelo and the Vittoriano in Rome, as well as the “Luoghi d’arte del Lazio” which includes the In Musica progamme, comprising nine concerts by top-class musicians at museums and archaeological sites in Rome and across the Lazio region, including Bagnaia, Caprarola, Ostia, Sperlonga, Tuscania, Veroli and Viterbo . For programme see website, www .art-city .it . Taste of Roma returns to the Auditorium Parco della Musica.

next year to Anna Cremonini, the present artistic consultant . See website, www .torinodanzafestival .it .

FESTIVALS IN ROME TASTE OF ROMA 21-24 Sept The sixth edition of the Taste of Roma festival takes place once again in the elevated gardens of the Auditorium Parco della Musica . The capital’s answer to Taste, the world’s foremost restaurant festival, the four-day gourmet event showcases the best of Roman haute cuisine . Chefs from 15 of Rome’s top restaurants will provide cooking demonstrations as well as preparing signature dishes, with 60 dishes available at affordable prices . Visitors can enjoy wine-tastings with sommeliers and public encounters with noted chefs and food professionals, all within an informal, open-air atmosphere . There are also numerous interactive events and activities, many of which are aimed at children . Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P . de Coubertin, tel . 06892982, www .tasteofroma .it . ROMAEUROPA FESTIVAL 20 Sept-2 Dec The multidisciplinary Romaeuropa Festival returns with a much-increased programme of contemporary dance, theatre, art, music and technology, under the title

“Where are we now?” The 32nd edition of the prestigious arts festival takes place in 24 locations around the city and features more than 300 artists from 32 countries, including many big names . Romaeuropa opens on 20 Sept with the celebrated German choreographer Sasha Waltz with her brand new Creation, being staged in Italy for the first time . The September programme includes the installation Nachlass: Pièces sans personnes (21-23 Sept), Fractus V by choreographer and dancer Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui (26-27 Sept), Surrender by Phil Griffin and Troubleyn/ Jan Fabre (27 Sept), Giselle by Dada Masilo (28 Sept-1 Oct), Libro Ottavo – Canti Guerrieri by Claudio Monteverdi | Muta Imago | Ensemble Arte Musica (29 Sept1 Oct), and BELGIAN RULES/BELGIUM RULES by Troubleyn/Jan Fabre (30 Sept-1 Oct) . See Dance section, page X . For programme details in English see Romaeuropa website, www .romaeuropa .net/en . ROMA FRINGE FESTIVAL 30 Aug-17 Sept The sixth edition of this annual festival is dedicated to independent theatre of all genres and this year, for the first time, the action takes place at Villa Mercede in the S . Lorenzo district, in collaboration with the World Fringe Network in Edinburgh . The festival features around 100 shows by Italian and international acts, with genres including performance, drama, comedy, street art, stand-up, sung theatre, theatrical dance, improvisation, puppet theatre, and workshops . The festival’s artistic director Davide Ambrogi said that spectators could look forward to “90 per cent new material” with a “civil, ironic or poetic take” and that there would also be “true

¡FIESTA! 31 May-30 Sept The 23rd edition of the four-month festival that brings Latin American music, dance, food and culture to Rome . Each year Latin American dancers and singers take to the stage, providing over 100 hours of live music from Latin America’s diverse ethnic cultures . Located at Parco Rosati in the city’s EUR district, the popular summer festival is designed to raise awareness of Latin American culture and act as a bridge between Italians and the estimated 100,000 Latin Americans living in the Lazio region . For programme see website . Parco Rosati, Via delle Tre Fontane 24 (EUR), tel . 0687463296, www . fiesta .it .

OPERA MILAN HANSEL AND GRETEL BY HUMBERDINCK 2-24 Sept In the first production after the summer break it has now become the custom for the students of La Scala Academy to stage an opera under the guidance of a well-known conductor and director . This year the opera is Engelbert Humperdinck’s Hansel and Gretel conducted by Marc Albrecht, chief conductor of the Dutch National Opera, and directed by Sven-Eric Bechtolf artistic director of the Salzberg festival . Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www .teatroallascala .org . September 2017 | Wanted in Rome

OPERA NOTES The Florence opera presents an end of summer mini festival dedicated to Puccini’s operas Madame Butterful, La Boheme and Tosca. The annual Verdi Festival in Parma opens with Jerusalem followed by Stiffelio, followed by the two popular repertory operas La Traviata and Falstaff . L’Opera di Firenze propone una “mini-stagione” di fine estate dal titolo Passione Puccini (8 settembre-1 ottobre) . In programma tre immortali melodrammi del celebre compositore lucchese . Il primo è Madama Butterfly (8-21 settembre) che fu clamorosamente bocciato alla Scala di Milano il 17 febbraio 1904 per poi rinasce (ampiamente riveduto e corretto) tre mesi dopo, il 28 maggio nel Teatro Grande di Brescia, e trionfalmente entrare in repertorio . A interpretare il ruolo da protagonista della geisha Cio-Cio-San è chiamata Donata D’Annunzio Lombardi, che sarà guidata dal direttore Francesco Pasqualetti e dal regista Fabio Ceresa . Secondo titolo in cartellone è La bohème (14-30 settembre) . Ebbe la prima al Regio di Torino il 1° febbraio 1896 diretta da Arturo Toscanini e a Puccini spalancò le porte della celebrità . Protagoniste due giovani coppie che vivono la loro storia di amore e morte nella Parigi della prima metà dell’Ottocento, saranno interpretate da Maria Mudryak e Matteo Lippi (Mimì e Rodolfo) e Angela Nisi e Julian Kim (Musetta e Marcello) . La direzione d’orchestra spetterà a Francesco Ivan Ciampa e la regia a Bruno Ravella . La terza e ultima opera in programma è Tosca (22 settembre-1 ottobre) che cronologicamente si colloca tra La bohème e Madama Butterfly, essendo andata in scena la prima volta al Teatro Costanzi di Roma il 14 gennaio 1900 . Non fu apprezzata dalla critica per la musica eccessiva e il soggetto violento, tuttavia emergono gemme preziose come l’aria del soprano (Vissi d’arte) e le due del tenore (Recondita armonia e E lucevan le stelle) . Saranno cantate da Francesca Tiburzi (Tosca) e da Stefano La Colla (Mario Cavaradossi) . Il terzo personaggio principale, il barone Scarpia, sarà sostenuto da Marco Vratogna . Il tutto sarà diretto e concertato da Valerio Galli con il regista Federico Bertolani . A Parma va in scena il Festival Verdi (28 settembre-22 ottobre) . Si aprirà con Jerusalem (28 settembre-20 ottobre) al Teatro Regio . Dopo Nabucco Verdi cavalcò l’onda del successo dell’opera a sfondo patriottico e alla Scala propose nel 1843 I lombardi alla prima crociata, che per le scena parigine nel 1847 trasformò in Jerusalem, riscrivendo buona parte della musica e componendo ex novo anche i balletti, per soddisfare il gusto del pubblico francese . La interpreterà oggi un quartetto di affermati e apprezzati cantanti: il soprano Annick Massis, il tenore Ramon Vargas, il baritono Vittorio Vitelli e il basso Michele Pertusi . La direzione d’orchestra spetterà a Daniele Callegari mentre la regia (insieme alle scene e ai costumi) a Hugo De Ana . Al Teatro Farnese di Parma il regista Graham Vick allestirà Stiffelio (30 settembre-21 ottobre) . Il pubblico starà in piedi e sarà libero di muoversi, scegliendo la propria personale “posizione” per vedere e ascoltare come meglio crede l’opera . Interpreti saranno: Luciano Ganci (il protagonista) Maria Katzarava (la moglie Lina) e Francesco Landolfi e Giovanni Sala (il padre e l’amante della donna) . Maestro concertatore e direttore: Guillermo Garcia Calvo . Il pastore protestante Stiffelio scopre che la propria consorte è un’adultera ma finisce con il perdonarla, fedele al dettato evangelico che chiede a «chi è senza peccato» di scagliare «la prima pietra» . L’opera, che è del 1850, ebbe gravi ed evidenti problemi con la censura, per cui Verdi fu costretto a modificarla e trasformata in Aroldo nel 1857 . Il resto della programmazione del Festival Verdi 2017 è di repertorio . La traviata andrà in scena al Teatro Giuseppe Verdi di Busseto (29 settembre-18 ottobre) con gli artisti del 55° Concorso Internazionale Voci Verdiane “Città di Busseto”, che saranno diretti da Sebastiano Rolli . Lo spettacolo è il risultato del progetto Vincitore di “European Opera-Directing Prize” . La quarta e ultima opera in cartellone è Falstaff (Teatro Regio 1 – 22/10) che vedrà nei panni del protagonista il baritono Roberto De Candia (che ben conosce il ruolo), sul podio Riccardo Frizza e alla regia Jacopo Spirei . Paolo Di Nicola

Wanted in Rome | September 2017

Placido Domingo returns to La Scala in Handel’s Tamerlano .

TAMERLANO BY HANDEL 12 Sept-4 Oct Davide Livermore makes his La Scala debut directing Handel’s opera, conducted by Diego Fasolis . This is Fasolis’s second and even more ambitious production with the new La Scala Baroque ensemble . Other highlights are Bejun Mehta also making his debut at La Scala, in the part of Tamerlano, and the return of Placido Domingo (for a birthday celebration) singing the part of Bajazet (12, 19, 22, 25, 27 Sept) . Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www .teatroallascala .org . DER FREISCHUTZ BY WEBER 10 Oct-2 Nov Weber’s opera, which has not been performed at La Scala since 1998, will be conducted by Myung-Whun Chung in a new La Scala production directed by Matthias Hartmann . The cast includes Julia Kleiter, Gunther Groissböck and Michael König . Weber’s opera, which premiered in Berlin in 1821, is considered the first great German opera of the Romantic period . It rapidly became an international success and it is said to have inspired the young

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Wanted in Rome | September 2017

THEATRE

Rome’s Silvano Toti Globe Theatre continues its Shakespearean programme with Macbeth (15 Sept-1 Oct) .

Richard Wagner in its use of folk legends and myths . Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www .teatroallascala .org .

ROME FRA DIAVOLO BY DANIEL-FRANÇOIS AUBER 8-21 Oct Conducted by Rory Macdonald and directed by Giorgio Barberio Corsetti, this is a new production in conjunction with the Teatro Massimo in Palermo . Sonia Ganassi sings the part of Lady Pamela and American tenor John Osborn Fra Diavolo . Auber’s comic and most successful opera was first performed in Paris in 1830 and then in London in 1857 in an Italian version . Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Giglio 1, www .operaroma .it/en . TOSCA BY PUCCINI 14-20 Oct This is Alessandro Talevi’s successful production which debuted at the Teatro dell’Opera in 2015, based on the drawings for the world premiere in 1900 . Conducted by Jordi Bernacer and Carlo Donadio, with Virginia Tola and Svetlana Kasyan in the part of Tosca . Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Giglio 1, www .operaroma .it/en/ . LA TRAVIATA BY VERDI 29 Oct-4 Nov If you missed Sofia Coppolla’s sumptuous traditional production of La Traviata, sponsored by Valentino, last autumn here it is again, conducted by Stefano Ranzani and Carlo Donadio . Two Ital-

ian sopranos take the part of Violetta, Maria Grazia Schiavo and Valentina Varriale who is part of the Teatro dell’Opera young artists programme) . Auturo Chacón-Cruz, a protegé of Placido Domingo, sings Alfredo Germont and Sebastian Catan Giorgio . There will also be a chance to hear Varriale next season in La Sonnambula (18 Feb-3 March 2018) and Le Nozze di Figaro (30 Oct-11 Nov 2018) . Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Giglio 1, www .operaroma .it/en . THE DAMNATION OF FAUST BY BERLIOZ 12-23 Dec The new season opens of 12 Dec with Daniele Gatti conducting Berlioz’s Damnation of Faust directed by Damiano Michieletto in a new joint production with Turin’s Teatro Regio and Palua de les Art Reina Sofia di Valencia . Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Giglio1, www .operaroma .it/en .

SHAKESPEARE AT THE GLOBE 22 June-15 Oct This summer’s Shakespearean programme at Rome’s Silvano Toti Globe Theatre runs for four months and includes an English-language performance . The festival is once again under the artistic direction of popular Roman actor Gigi Proietti and the programme continues in September with Il Mercante di Venezia directed by Loredana Scaramella (24 Aug-10 Sept), and Macbeth directed by Daniele Salvo (15 Sept-1 Oct) . The festival ends on a high-note for Rome’s English speakers: the Londonbased Bedouin Shakespeare Company returns for the third year with an Englishlanguage co-production of Much Ado About Nothing, directed by Chris Pickles (5-15 Oct) . In addition there are several poetic and musical projects including Sonetti D’Amore; Playing Shakespeare and Il Canto di Shakespeare . Rome’s Globe Theatre, located in the heart of Villa Borghese, is a full-scale timber reproduction of Shakespeare’s Globe, copied from the original oak and thatch designs, and almost identical to the one that stands on London’s South Bank . Last year the festival attracted some 65,000 spectators, and all shows are in Italian with the exception of the final production . For details see website, www .globetheatreroma .com . Largo Acqua Felix, Villa Borghese, tel . 060608 . ENGLISH THEATRE OF ROME 15-16 Sept The English Theatre of Rome is holding auditions for Don Carroll’s new play If Lear had a Lawyer, casting male and female actors, all races, aged 20s-80s, either English mother-tongue or slight accent . Based on Shakespeare’s King Lear from a lawyer’s perspective, this is the first play

Ritratto di una nazione at Teatro India . Poster image featuring Things aren’t as bad as they could be by Liu Xiaodong . September 2017 | Wanted in Rome

See cover of this edition by Toshinobu Onosato . Istituto Giapponese di Cultura, Via Antonio Gramsci 74, tel . 063224754, www .jfroma .it . POLISH INSTITUTE 8 June-30 Sept The Polish Institute of Rome presents Nella città di Kazimierz Dolny, an exhibition by Jan Michalak, as part of the 15th edition of its annual Corso Polonia cultural festival . Through oil paintings, sculptures and videos, Michalak captures the spirit of the small town in central Poland which has attracted artists, writers and poets since the end of the 18th century . Istituto Polacco di Roma, Via Vittoria Colonna 1, tel . 0636000723, www .istitutopolacco .it . Swimming is Saving at the French Academy .

by Carroll, an American attorney and long-term Rome resident who performs and directs with the city’s English-language theatre companies . Auditions take place on 15 Sept from 19 .30-22 .00 and on 16 Sept from 15 .30-18 .00 at Sounds Good Studios on Via Dancalia 9 . To book an audition send CV to learlawyer@ gmail .com . The stage performance is scheduled from 30 Nov-10 Dec this year . TEATRO INDIA 11-16 Sept The first part in a series of 20 theatrical productions from around Italy is staged by Teatro India as part of Ritratto di una Nazione (Portrait of a Nation) . Under the theme L’Italia al lavoro (Italy at work), the series includes eight productions from Friuli Venezia Giulia, Sicily, Lombardy, Calabria), Puglia, Emilia Romagna, Sardinia and Veneto . For full programme see Teatro India website . The five-hour production, in Italian, begins at 19 .00 with a half-hour interval . Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, www .teatrodiroma .net .

ACADEMIES BRITISH SCHOOL AT ROME The British School at Rome has appointed Prof . Stephen J . Milner to succeed the outgoing BSR director Prof . Christopher Smith who leaves on the conclusion of his eight-year posting . Prof . Milner has served as a lecturer in Italian art at the University of Cambridge and senior lecturer in Italian at the University of Bristol . Milner takes up his new position in Rome this September . British School at Rome, Via Antonio Gramsci 61, tel . 063264939, www .bsr .ac .uk .

Wanted in Rome | September 2017

CASA DI GOETHE 22 March-15 Oct Punti di Vista (Points of View) is an exhibition by German photographer Kerstin Schomburg who, during the summer of 2015, followed in the footsteps of important landscape artist and friend of Goethe, Jakob Philipp Hackert (17371807) . Schomburg uses her camera to provide a modern version of Hackert’s celebrated scenes of Rome, including St Peter’s and the Baths of Caracalla, as well as the Roman hinterland such as the waterfalls of Tivoli, Via Appia Antica, and Villa Conti in Frascati . The exhibition also includes some original Hackert works . Casa di Goethe, Via del Corso 18, tel . 0632650412, www .casadigoethe .it . FRENCH ACADEMY OF ROME 14 July-17 Sept The French Academy – Villa Medici presents Swimming is Saving, an exhibition bringing together the various interdisciplinary projects of the academy’s 15 fellows . Curated by Chiara Parisi, the exhibition includes the work of painters, writers, composers and photographers . Some of the works will be exhibited in Paris this autumn at the ¡Viva Villa! festival in Montmartre . Villa Medici, Viale Trinità dei Monti 1, tel . 066761305, www .villamedici .it . JAPANESE CULTURAL INSTITUTE 4 May-12 Oct The Japanese Cultural Institute, in collaboration with its neighbour the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna, presents Boom Beat Bubble, an exhibition of Japanese prints from the 1960s, 1970s and 1980s . There are 54 works by 24 artists in the exhibition whose title refers to the economic “Boom” of the 1960s, followed by the “Beat” era which gained momentum later that decade, and Japan’s speculative economic “Bubble” of the 1980s .

SPORT ROME HALF MARATHON VIA PACIS 17 Sept The Rome Half Marathon Via Pacis is described as the first multi-religious half marathon for peace . It is being organised by the city and the Vatican’s Pontifical Council for Culture in collaboration with the Italian Athletics Federation . With its core principles as “peace, integration, inclusion and solidarity”, the event is open to all who oppose “violence, racism and discrimination .” The 21-km race begins at St Peter’s Square at 09 .00 on Sunday 17 September and will be broadcast live on RAI Sport . The race route will incorporate sites pertaining to five different religious denominations: St Peter’s, the Synagogue, the Mosque, the Valdese Church and the Orthodox Church . There is also a non-competitive 5-km run . For details including registration see website, www . romahalfmarathon .org .

Rome’s half marathon for peace takes place on 17 September .

THIS PAGE IS OPEN TO YOUNG WRITERS AND ARTISTS

WANTED IN ROME Junior

St Stephen’s School: a selection of work from Moira Egan’s Creative Writing Classes, 2016-17 Winner of the 2017 Keats-Shelley House Poetry Prize Cristina Rizzo (grade 11) Mud after Wilfred Owen

Spleens are thrust on the ground, While legs squelch through Lakes of cardinal red . Rough metals clank and cut Through clumps of contracting Muscles, tissues . Blades taste like ice On the shivering skins Of those Who’ve feebly fought For fathers For fatherlands Which few will Fail to satisfy And exalt . While, out will come others, Not braver men, But perhaps on better terms with chance, Who’ll lie, alive, in luscious, Luxurious praises and gains But whose minds will have broken . Therefore I give these words To whoever lies in the mud, Both in the body and in the mind .

Wanted in Rome | September 2017

Eveline Mol (grade 11) Cloudburst The night breathes in their frigid whispers .They face each other, his eyes cold as ice . The person she used to love, once a calm lake who sent ripples through her, now frozen over, menacingly weak . She cares not for the others he speaks of, she barely cares about him or his words . Tears roll down her cheek . His words do not break her heart; The pitter-patter does .

Estefania Hugo (grade 12) Moon-Sun Tales I see the Moon in her full grandeur . She wears her shiny apron of diamonds . Daylight - I imagine her watching you, Keeping you company on summer nights . She sometimes shares whispers Of your quiet whereabouts . Misery lingers, And you on the other side . I see the Sun in his full splendour . He shows his golden mane at the blue skies . Nightfall - I imagine him caressing you, Keeping you warm in winter time . He sometimes keeps secrets Of your lively going-outs . Heartache is frequent . He visits you on the other side .

Michelangelo Ferrazza (grade 12) from Shadows of the Lords …Upon remembering her, his mind overflowing with bitter thoughts, he decided that he’d reminisced long enough . He quickly shook the thoughts from his head and focused . He grasped one of the straps of his backpack . He had everything he would need: flashlight for the darkest areas, glowsticks to mark his path, spray paint, which he used to leave his signature, if it seemed appropriate — an O with an X through it, but in desperate situations, he could also use it to leave a trail —some water, and a gasmask in case of mold spores . He pulled up his black hood, adjusted his backpack, and headed into the unknown . Mt . Ariandel Asylum awaited him . He had heard the legends, he had come, and now that the abyss was calling him more than ever, it was time to answer .

Laura Rizzo (grade 10) SanTorini There, on the highest point in Oia, the cloudless sky reflected all its spotless perfection onto the water, but in little time, the celeste shifted into shades of tangerine and coral that dominated the sky, expanding slowly and, at last, hiding behind the Aegean, leaving shades of indigo illuminated by small crystals . The stars were so clear compared to the ones back in Rome, untouched by clouds, smog or buildings; every speck

WANTED IN ROME JUNIOR was evident, even the smallest . They were closer that way, the stars, almost as if you could raise a finger, and watch it sink into the soothing blue-violet .

Federico Salvati (grade 10) An Acoustic Paradise They say the gate clangs when you open it And screeches when you force it . The birds chirp . You stutter and stand there stunned, As beauty banishes all that is abominable . But then a sudden scream strikes your subtle stance… They say you can’t escape the eternal ethical chant that Some say is dreadful, others say is delicate as a dove drifting on A deep sea while admiring his Dactylotheca .

Priscilla Pigozzi Garofalo (grade 12) The Swell of the Seasons

Their pollen, we’re assured will make us bold . The things we used to think, so delicately hung . Suddenly this growth inside, Reveals the morals to which we’d clung . The rules by which we thought we should abide . Of course, they now seem naive and dumb . The saplings are our future, yet we sit still and chide . But how are they to know what’s to come? Soon trunks will grow tight around their hearts . The same songs of change we had sung Will bubble out of them; surprise them with its spark . Then maybe our flowers will be born forth from our bark .

Sophie Potin (grade 10) Northern Lights

Cold stalks through the layers of fabric to settle blissfully atop the skin, petulantly perched before commencing its descent through the layers of the epidermis . The air quiets and stills . Numbness pervades the environment, plunging the fluttering vibrancy of pines in reluctant slumber . Bark bristles in opposition before succumbing with a growl . Gravel crunches resentfully under rubber soles, whilst air parts ceremoniously to admit words to its ranks .

It’s intriguing and scary, deep and empty, then bright and overbounding . I will never understand that I saw the universe clearly for the first time outside a cottage in cold, dark Iceland . I couldn’t bear the child in me staring with fear at the northern lights, painting the sky with stories we’d never heard before . As I leaned back, I let the colors wash over my soul, painting new dreams . The colors fought For freedom in The inky blackness

Bites shredding the skin, turning it rosy and numb . Stilling the senses .

Virginia Testa (Grade 10) Dead Leaves

Georgia Smith (SSS Boarding Student, 2016-17) Revelation Revolution The roots grab hold . They sprout around our lungs .

The road was completely dark and sinister . We just kept walking, illuminating the streets with our portable torches . Fallen leaves scattered on the asphalt . We kept calm and collected, walking ahead, not sure of where we were headed . Not making any kind of sound . When we reached the cemetery, we

all went in, still quiet . Some of us were whispering to each other, probably questioning what kind of place this was . I looked back and saw Leaves were falling Onto the bare, cold ground Like buried bodies

Lucas Zehner (Grade 12) from The Beginning of the End … The sea was enclosed by two large walls of ice, hundreds of feet tall, encasing the great bay in its solid grip . They formed a rough arch shape, which met with the black stone of the mountains protruding from either side of the bay into the dark blue water . The walls never met in the centre, but a slim crevasse separated the two massive, icy entities . The bay was serene; there were no waves to be seen in the distance and the jagged ice sheets had all drifted to the shores .

St Stephen’s School, Via Aventina 3 tel. 065750605, www.sssrome.it.

WANTED IN ROME JUNIOR For young writers and artists Wanted in Rome is accepting creative contributions from students in all international schools in Rome . Articles on topics related to either the student’s life in Rome or their school projects can be submitted by their class teachers . The work should be no more than 1,000 words and all contributions should contain the name, age and school of the student . We also accept illustrations . Any class teachers who would like to propose a project please contact editorial@wantedinrome .com .

September 2017 | Wanted in Rome

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COLUMNS ACCOMMODATION VACANT IN TOWN STYLISH APARTMENT NEAR TERMINI. 1250 sqm apartment in Via Marghera (Piazza Indipendenza) completely renovated and fully furnished . Air conditioning, ADSL . Livingroom, bedroom, kitchen, bathroom, big cupboards in the corridor . Could be eventually shared between 2 people . Located at the same distance from metro A (Termini) and metro B (castro Pretorio) . Contact marie .romiti@ gmail .com .

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TRASTEVERE WITH GARDEN AND FIREPLACE. 180 sqm and 80 sqm garden, high ceilings, fireplace, large living room, furnished, AC, WIFI . Contact sinnesinne@hotmail .com . COSY APARTMENT PIAZZA EPIRO - S. GIOVANNI. Beautiful, cosy, quiet, elegant, fully furnished, renovated, two sunny bedrooms, kitchen, bathroom . 1930s . condo+garden . Near FAO, 12mins walk from Colosseum . Contact airleas . rome@gmail .com . PIAZZA DI SPAGNA. SPAGNA 60 sqm . Living room, double-bedroom, kitchen, bathroom, view, refurbished, furnished For rent: Company . Temporary . Studio-home . Contact mv .miceli@gmail . com . GIANICOLO ROOM. Available 2 nice quiet rooms (one immediately and one from august) . The apartment is inside a green private park, 10 min by foot to Trastevere, 2 min by foot to Gianicolo view . The apartment is still occupied by 1 other girl so she would prefer another girl . Well connected (Quattro Venti station) all included fully furnished . €520 per month . giulio_piccinini@ hotmail .com . Tel . 348 7740536 .

MANZONI AREA. Studio flat, for one person, minimum rent of six months, €500 monthly . Email: dellascala4@gmail . com .

ACCOMMODATION VACANT OUT OF TOWN IN VILLA OVERLOOKING LAKE BRACCIANO. Fabulous views, flat w/ big living-dining room, 1 bedroom, full bath, kitchenette, terraces, parking, huge garden, Trevignano Romano, available after 8 Aug, tel . 340 / 616 5748 .

HOLIDAY ACCOMMODATION APARTMENT NEAR SIENA (TUSCANY). 80 sqm apartment in Sarteano (Siena) in residential area on the hill (600m) in proximity toll-gate Chiusi/Chianciano of Highway A1, near Siena and Florence . Description : 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, 1 dining room, kitchen + individual garage with individual washing machine . Apartment is total furnished . The price for September 2017 is €450 a week . Contact rincettielisabetta@yahoo .it .

JOBS VACANT NANNY ENGLISH SPEAKING. Italian family downtown Rome seeks nanny for a 6-year-old kid, 3 hrs/day 16 .00-19 .00 Monday/ Friday, good English, driving licence, light housework, minimum 1 year . Contact angeladimaria@yahoo .com . PART-TIME GYM AND PART-TIME MATHS TEACHERS NEEDED. Istituto Marymount on Via Nomentana is looking for a part-time gym teacher and a parttime math teacher for the new high school opening in September . Qualified applicants are asked to send CV via email . sgrant@marymount .it . BILINGUALK SCHOOL IS SEEKING ENGLISH TEACHER. OIS is looking for part-time and full-time teachers

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September 2017 | Wanted in Rome

ADV BLU DI PRUSSIA for the new academic school year . All teachers need to be mother tongue and have a B .ED, PGCE or equivalent teaching degree . Contact info@ ostiainternationalschool .it . ENGLISH TEACHER WANTED. Seeking qualified English mother-tongue teacher to tutor trilingual 11-year-old boy twice a week . Contact ritacristofari@gmail .com . ENGLISH MOTHER TONGUE TEACHERS. Full time English Language Teachers for our schools in Rome . Candidates must be native speakers and have: a degree, teaching experience, relevant teaching certification, p .iva . Positions starting immediately . Contact info@englishscool .it . TOUR PROMOTER. Tour Operator seeks highly motivated individuals, energetic and able to work independently as well as in a team . We are looking for promoters to sell Colosseum tours . We require fluency in one or more of the following languages: English, German, Spanish, Russian and Chinese . Potential for great money . You’ll be working in an international environment and in a friendly atmosphere . Basic sales training provided . Contact walczakmagda@gmail .com . HOW TO LIVE & WORK SUCCESSFULLY IN ITALY! Coming in October 2017 . For details, please visit http://damienofarrell . com/events/ or tel . 339 / 3332547 . ENGLISH BUSINESS TRAINER. The Language Grid seeks motivated EMT trainers to work in a business environment . Offering part-time and full-time positions on long term contracts with paid holiday, bonuses & benefits . Opportunity for career development . Apply via email: info@thelanguagegrid . com with CV, photo & cover letter . info@ thelanguagegrid .com . PART-TIME AND FULL-TIME ENGLISH TEACHER. Adacher Kinderheim is seeking experienced English mothertongue or bilingual teachers for positions in nursery and kindergarten, full-time and part-time (working days Monday to Friday), starting from September . Please send your CV to liliana_vialesaffi26@ libero .it . INTERNATIONAL B2B MARKETING & SALES SUPPORT. You can spend your summer teaching, babysitting, or in travel sector . Or, you can come to our offices, learn, train, earn and have fun working with some of the most international high-tech companies in the world; Here Maps, VMware, trivago, and others! Seeking native English, German, Swedish, Czech, French, and others! Support our Clients Sales and marketing teams with prospecting, database enriching and

Wanted in Rome | September 2017

lead qualification . Be part of a team with training and management . Flexible hours . Competitive wages . Send your CV to jobs@3d2b .com . Must have work or student visa for Italy . SOCIAL MEDIA CONSULTANTS. Experienced bloggers, experts in Photoshop & InDesign, & Website Designer/ Developer wanted for freelance projects . Send résumé to damien@damienofarrell .com . SECRETARY POSITION. Secretary for an International school . The ideal candidate must be bilingual (English / Italian) with strong organizational, communication and interpersonal skills; able to work well under pressure and use technology efficiently and effectively with 3-5 years of office experience in related position . Italian/EU citizen or valid permit of stay required . Please email detailed CV to info@aosr .org . PROGRAM COORDINATOR, LUC JOHN FELICE ROME CENTER. The John Felice Rome Center (JFRC) of Loyola University Chicago is hiring a Program Coordinator for its first-year program, Rome Start . This part-time opportunity will begin on 1 August 2017 . Since 2011 the JFRC is the home of the Rome Start program: first-year students begin their studies at Loyola University Chicago at the JFRC . The Rome Start Program Coordinator will be an informed, approachable individual, who possesses comprehensive knowledge of both the JFRC and Loyola University Chicago; provide clear leadership, rooted in Jesuit values; represent this unique program both inward and outward . A Bachelor’s Degree is required; Master’s preferred; Proper status to legally work in Italy; Experience in a College or University setting . For further information, and for a full job description, please write to: JFRCRomeStart@gmail .com . FLUENT ENGLISH SPEAKERS/ BILINGUAL ITALIANENGLISH. Language School in Ostia looking for fluent English speakers/

bilingual Italian-English to teach Young Learners and Very Young Learners . CELTA - CELTyl - TEFL preferred but not required . Send CV to info@playwithgaby .it, https:// www .facebook .com/playwithgaby/ . RELOCATION LOCAL COUNSELOR. Principal Relocation Company seeks freelance local counselors to accompany corporate clients to public offices, view properties, etc . in Rome . Own transport is necessary . CV to careers@principalrelocation .com ref: LC-RM . PART-TIME AND FULL-TIME ENGLISH TEACHER. Adacher Kinderheim is seeking experienced English mother-tongue or bilingual teachers for positions in nursery and kindergarten, full-time and parttime (working days Monday to Friday), starting from September . Please send your CV to liliana_vialesaffi26@libero .it .

LESSONS ITALIAN LESSONS OR CONVERSATION. Qualified and experienced teacher for Italian lessons and conversations (one to one, group, skype) . Emma . livingitalialanguage@gmail .com, www .livingitalianlanguage .com .

POETRY

0/19:00-22:00 Sab

THE LAW IS EQUAL FOR ALL. The mayor Virginia Raggi to improve public transport wants cable railway . Guida lei? sernicolimarco@gmail .com .

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19:00-22:00

Korean BBQ

RAGGI DI SOLE. They get up to all kinds of colours, what about a negro e bianco film? Virginia vacanze romane . sernicolimarco@gmail .com .

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PROPERTY FOR SALE OUT OF TOWN

BI-LEVEL VILLA FOR SALE NEAR LAKE BRACCIANO. Beautiful bi-level villa for sale with in-ground round pool, wraparound porch, 4 car covered parking area, and panoramic view of Lake Bracciano . Each floor is a full apartment with kitchen, 3 bathrooms, large living room with fireplace and 3 bedrooms . Solar panels and rain collection cistern in addition to plumbing/electric . Contact h .love@mac . com .

www.galbiroma.it Via Cremera 21, 00198 Roma Tel. +39 06 8842132 | info@galbiroma.it

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SCHOOLS AND COLLEGES ESE SHORT COURSE MUSIC MANAGEMENT_INTAKE SEPT 2017. The Professional Programme in Music Management at the European School of Economics has been developed to meet the needs of students who wish to pursue a business and management career in the music industry . A series of lectures, seminars and workshops with both regular and visiting industry specialists equips candidates with essential knowledge and skills needed to excel within each stage of the music management process . The course covers such topics as contract law, intellectual copyright, artist management and the recording industry . Practical, theoretical and strategic expertise will be provided within a challenging environment in order for students to succeed within this fast changing field . After successful completion of the programme, students will be prepared for employment opportunities as: artist manager, tour manager, booking agent, talent agent, entertainment attorney, business manager, music business consultant, record company executive, artist and repertoire representative, artist and repertoire administrator, music publisher, label manager, music supervisor, concert promoter, radio promoter, organization of music events, festivals, music awards,

among many others . Internship Programme: Upon successful completion of the programme participants may opt to take a 3-months internship fitted to their profile and career objectives . An assessment with the ESE Placement Officer will determine their eligibility for a placement . Intake Dates: September 2017 Courses Duration: 3-month in class course + minimum 3-month internship (optional); 12 in-class hours per week (Monday-Friday) . Language of Instruction: English . Please do not hesitate to contact our centre for further details: ese .roma@uniese .it; admission .rome@ uniese .it tel . (+39) 0648906653 www . uniese .it www .europeanschoolofeconomics .com . ESE SHORT COURSE FILM BUSINESS_ INTAKE SEPT 2017. With all its lights and shadows, the film industry remains one of the strongest sectors worldwide, and it is arguably the most influential . In terms of raw figures, the film industry is one of the biggest sources of importation income for the US, and film studies are offered in hundreds of colleges and universities . This course aims at three primary goals and has three different levels of utility: *It will improve your capacity to identify and face challenges, establish priorities, find solutions, organise processes, manage personal relationships and, moreover, manage

your own creative potential . *Along the course, you will learn the fundaments of filmmaking and will accomplish a solid foundation upon which you may grow in any direction . Once there, the course will help you choose your area of interest and will provide you with the proper tools to specialize . *But, most important, this course is about who you are, what you truly want and how to achieve it . In short, it is about creating, facing and fulfilling your dream . Because, both, the film industry and yourself can be rightly seen as that: factories of dreams . And this course is about helping these factories work for good . Internship Programme: Upon successful completion of the programme participants may opt to take a 3-months internship fitted to their profile and career objectives . An assessment with the ESE Placement Officer will determine their eligibility for a placement . Intake Dates: September 2017 Courses Duration: 3-month in class course + minimum 3-month internship (optional) 12 in-class hours per week (Monday-Friday) Language of Instruction: English Please do not hesitate to contact our centre for further details: ese .roma@uniese .it +39 06 48906653 www .uniese .it www .europeanschoolofeconomics .com .

September 2017 | Wanted in Rome

USEFUL

NUMBERS ASSOCIATIONS American International Club of Rome tel . 0645447625, www .aicrome .org American Women’s Association of Rome tel . 064825268, www .awar .org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail .com Association of Malaysians in Italy tel . 389 / 1162161, malaysiansinitaly@ gmail .com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail .com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel . 065413985, fax 065413971 Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail .com International Women’s Club of Rome tel . 0633267490 . www .pwarome .org Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail .com, www .irishclubofrome .org Luncheon Club of Rome tel . 333 / 8466820 Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums tel . 0669881814, www .vatican-patrons .org Professional Women’s Association www .pwarome .org United Nations Women’s Guild tel . 0657053628, unwg@fao .org, www .unwgrome .multiply .com Welcome Neighbor tel . 347 / 9313040, dearprome@tele2 .it, www .wnrome-homepage .blogspot .com

Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel . 066802637, www .saintlouisdefrance .it La Librairie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S . Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel . 0668307598, www .librairiefrancaiserome .com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V . E . Orlando 84, tel . 064827878, www .lafeltrinelli .it Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel . 064814484, Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza Navona 90, tel . 0668806950, www .libreriaspagnola .it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books – English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel . 065896478, www .books-in-italy .com St Patrick’s English-Language Library Via Boncompagni 31, tel . 0642014554 Opening times: Sun 10 .00-12 .30, Tues 10 .00-14 .00, Wed 15 .00-18 .00, Thurs 11 .00-15 .30

The following cinemas show films in English or original language when available – see Wanted in Rome website for details . Casa del Cinema Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Villa Borghese, tel . 06423601, www .casadelcinema .it Cinema dei Piccoli Viale della Pineta 15, Villa Borghese, tel . 068553485 Cinema Doria Via Andrea Doria 52, tel . 0639721446 . Farnese Persol Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel . 066864395 Fiamma Multisala Via Bissolati 47, tel . 06485526 Filmstudio Via degli Orti d’Alibert 1/c, tel . 334 / 1780632, www .filmstudioroma .com Greenwich Via G . Bodoni 59, tel . 065745825 Intrastevere Vicolo Moroni 3, tel . 065884230 Lux Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel . 0686391361 Multisala Barberini Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel . 0686391361 Nuovo Olimpia Via in Lucina 16/g, tel . 066861068 Nuovo Sacher Largo Ascianghi 1, tel . 065818116 Odeon Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel . 0686391361 EMERGENCY NUMBERS

BOOKS

CHIAMAROMA

The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified .

24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel . 060606

Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel . 065836942 Anglo American Bookshop Via della Vite 102, tel . 066795222

CINEMAS

• Ambulance tel . 118 • Carabinieri tel . 112 • Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel . 800130336 • Fire brigade tel . 115 • Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel . 800900999 • Police tel . 113 • Rubbish (Ama) tel . 8008670355 September 2017 | Wanted in Rome

RELIGIOUS All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b, tel . 0636001881, Sunday service 08 .30 and 10 .30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel . 066780302, www .anglicancentreinrome .com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel . 389 / 9691486, www .bethhillelroma .org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel . 334 / 2934593, www .bbcroma .org, Sunday 11 .00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel . 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel . 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A . Beroloni 1/e, tel . 068080474, Sunday service 11 .15 (Swedish) Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel . 0650917621, 333 / 2284093, North Rome, tel . 0630894371, akfsmes .styles@tiscali .it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel . 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel . 065594266, Sunday service 11 .00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel . 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel . 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel . 064817519, Sunday service 10 .00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S . Angelo, tel . 066868314, Sunday service 10 .30 Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei Santi Quattro 1, tel . 06772631 . Sunday service 10 .00 Rome Baptist Church Piazza S . Lorenzo in Lucina 35,

Wanted in Rome | September 2017

tel . 066876652, 066876211, Sunday service 10 .30, 13 .00 (Filipino), 16 .00 (Chinese) Rome Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel . 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www .romeinternational .org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel . 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel . 064827627, Sunday service 11 .00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic), Via del Caravita 7, www . caravita .org, Sunday service 11 .00 St Isidore’s College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel . 064885359, Sunday service 10 .00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic) Via Boncompagni 31, tel . 0642014554, Saturday service 18 .00 . Sunday service 09 .00 and 10 .30 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel . 064883339, Sunday service 08 .30,10 .30 (English), 13 .00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S . Silvestro 1, tel . 066977121, Sunday service 10 .00 and 17 .30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel . 066868546, Sunday service 10 .00 SUPPORT GROUPS Alcoholics Anonymous tel . 064742913, www .aarome .info Archè (HIV+ children and their families) tel . 0677250350, www .arche .it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel . 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel . 065349622/0658204580, www .ryderitalia .it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel . 066535499, www .differenzadonna .it Caritas soup kitchen

(Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel . 0647821098, 11 .00-13 .30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via Zoccolette 19, tel . 066875228, 066861554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel . 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S . Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel . 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel . 338 / 1675680 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S . Egidio 3/a, tel . 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel 065894327, 17 .00-19 .30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for the disabled tel . 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel . 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel . 0644234511, masonperkins@gmail .com, www .mpds .it Overeaters Anonymous tel . 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri”, Via degli Apuli 41, tel . 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E . Fioritto 2, tel . 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel . 800860022 TRANSPORT • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel . 800431784, www .atac .roma .it • Ciampino airport tel . 06794941, www .adr .it • Fiumicino airport tel . 0665951, www .adr .it • Taxi tel . 060609 – 065551 – 063570 – 068822 – 064157 – 066645 – 064994 • Traffic info tel . 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel . 892021, www .trenitalia .it

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