Wanted in Rome - May 2017 by Wanted in Rome

june 2017 â&#x201A;Ź 2,00

The english language magazine in Rome

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art and culture entertainment GALLERIES MUSEUMS NEWS Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 9, Numero 6

contents

titolo

no. 6 / June 2017 editorials

FROM CARAVAGGIO TO BERNINI Martin Bennett . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 A DOLL’S HOUSE IN TESTACCIO Mike Dilien. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 THE SECRETS OF ROME’S ARTISAN BAKERIES Paula Berner Magalhaes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

what’s on

EXHIBITIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 classical. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 POP, ROCK, JAZZ. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 DANCE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 festivals. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 festivals AROUND italy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 OPERA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 OPERA notes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 THEATRE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Academies. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 CHILDREN. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 sport. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34

classified columns. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 MISCELLANY

MUSEUMS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 art galleries in rome . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Wanted in rome junior. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 useful numbers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Next publication and classified dates Next publication dates are 5 July and 2 Aug. Classified advertisements placed through our office, Via di Monserrato 49, should arrive not later than 13.00 on 25 June (for 5 July) and 23 July (for 2 Aug). However classifieds may be published around the clock on our website www.wantedinrome.com. They will appear in the next available paper edition of the magazine.

Detail of Angurie, 1967, by Piero Gilardi. Collezione Fondazione Gilardi. Nature Forever exhibition until 15 Oct MAXXI Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4, www.fondazionemaxxi.it.

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32 June 2017 | Wanted in Rome

art

Martin Bennett

FROM CARAVAGGIO TO BERNINI A major exhibition at the Scuderie del Quirinale examines the close ties between the Spanish court and the Italian states in the 17th century

rt for art’s sake, of course, but also in the Baroque period art was a diplomatic currency. Sometimes Italian rulers would offer paintings to curry favour with the Spanish in Naples and Milan and sometimes the Spanish kings and viceroys would buy works directly from the artists. When Diego Velasquez was the ambassador/buyer, the quality was guaranteed. Alternatively, in the reign of the ailing Charles II, the last of his line, a more practical option was to invite star painters to Spain – most notably the Neapolitan masters Luca Giordano and his protégé Solimena. The Duke of Urbino gifted Spain’s Philip III the first picture in the exhibition – Barocci’s Call of St Andrew – and, although it belongs to the Mannerist period, its dramatic diagonals, a hallmark of the Baroque, are already in evidence. Alongside it is Fede Galicia’s Judith and Holophernes. The splendour of Judith’s dress in Galicia’s work rather belies the horror of the event, and Holophernes’ head seems more wooden than human. There are no such discrepancies in Caravaggio’s Salomé, snapped up by the Spanish crown during the reign of

Wanted in Rome | June 2017

Caravaggio’s Salomé was purchased by the Spanish crown during the second half of the 17th century.

art Charles III in the second half of the 17th century for a bargain 78 scudi. It was painted in late career, when Caravaggio was threatened not only by a papal death sentence but also with reprisals from the Knights of Malta after he had been declared membrum putridum et foetidum (putrid and fetid member) for an offence that remains unclear. Holding the platter containing the Baptist’s head, Salome recoils in disgust from the very atrocity to which she had made herself an accomplice at the behest of her mother Herodias. Meanwhile the executioner, a staple figure in Caravaggio’s works, twists his back, his sword-hilt plainly visible since the painting’s restoration. Completing the circle, the old maid-servant (or, according to another interpretation, Herodias herself) looks on with malefic intensity. Beyond the frame, story multiplies story. Bellori, Caravaggio’s biographer, reports that the painter offered “a painting of Herodias holding the Baptist’s head” (this or one of two other Salomés, one of which is in London’s National Gallery) to the Grand Master of the Knights of Malta, hoping to placate him for whatever offense he may have perpetrated while on the island. Caravaggio’s fears of reprisals were well-founded; the emissaries of the Knights of Malta caught up with him in Naples shortly before his death, slashing his face. Arriving in Rome in 1601 Guido Reni had been immediately impressed by Caravaggio’s genius, although far from being flattered by such homage, Caravaggio took offence. In Reni’s St Catherine, of which the Bolognese artist made several copies, the heavenward sweetness of her gaze borrows from Raphael’s St Cecilia. In the next room, however, Reni has pride of place. In his Conversion of Saul — later to become Paul — the saint, who has been thrown from his horse, stretches towards the viewer, all falling arms and legs. His shield lies useless in the foreground while the frightened, craning

Guido Reni’s Conversion was gifted to Spain by Prince Ludovisi in return for Spanish protection of his princedom of Piombino.

horse takes up more space than the sky itself. The picture ended up in Spanish hands after Prince Ludovisi donated it to ensure the then super-power’s protection for his tiny princedom of Piombino. Another gift was Guercino’s Lot and his daughters. Mindful of the fate of Sodom and of Lot’s wife in the background, the two daughters, using wine as part palliative, part providential instrument, prepare to perform the unspeakable so that the race survives. Another wall features two pretty female heads by Baglione – or “Coglione” as Caravaggio renamed him in a scurrilous poem, incurring for Caravaggio a libel charge and another mark on his criminal record. The next two rooms are dedicated to the Spaniard, Jusepe de Ribera, the artist best represented in this exhibition, most of whose mature work was done

in Naples. From 1612 to 1616 Lo Spagnoletto, as he was also known, was in Rome and one can surmise that he would have encountered Caravaggio’s work. If not in Rome, they surely would have met in Naples, where Caravaggio would soon flee to escape a papal death penalty. Illustrating Ribera’s label as “poet of the repugnant” are two St Jeromes. The first, each wrinkle lovingly observed, thrusts a skull toward the viewer with less than clean hands, only the Bible as an intermediary. In the second painting, the saint, even further into old age, hauls himself up by ropes attached to the roof of his grotto, dog-eared Vulgate, skull and feather as points of reference. Yet, as well as gloom and shadow, Ribera could also do skylight as shown in the two large depictions of St Francis. Or again in the recently restored Jacob with Laban’s flock: the silvery light filters June 2017 | Wanted in Rome

art

Spain’s Jusepe de Ribera depicts St Jerome hauling himself up by ropes attached to the roof of his grotto.

down to illuminate even the sheep’s eyelashes as the much favoured Jacob looks heavenward to receive God’s next instruction. In the top corner rears a brown and rampant ram, a sign that Jacob’s own tawny and mottled flock will soon outnumber the prize white herd of Laban, Jacob’s stingy and trickish father-in-law. Ribera’s command of registers is there in his portrait of Don John of Austria, Philip IV’s illegitimate son, sent to Naples at the age of 18 to quell a republican revolt against Spanish taxes. Notice, below the horse, the Bay of Naples and the fort of Castel d’Elmo. Not a shadow to be seen anywhere, nor for that matter Vesuvius. Or maybe Ribera was busy elsewhere. Outside the frame flits the rumour that Ribera’s daughter bore the same Don John a child. Other candidates for paternity are Ribera’s brother or his brother-in-law. Bernardo de Dominici in his Lives of the Painters (1742) attributes the illegitimate birth as “a divine punishment, given Ribera’s pride and scorn of the city’s other painters”, so hinting at the sometimes cut-throat rivalries underlying Naples’ Baroque glories. The Spanish connection continues with Velasquez. Painted after his first Italian trip, Jacob’s Cloak borrows from

Tintoretto not so much a chequered floor as, in Velasquez’ hand, a stage. Two of Joseph’s brothers act out their deception. Behind, one brother smiles at the performance; another, hands on mouth, suppresses a snigger. The picture’s interplay of expressions is pure theatre, capturing the dramatic moment, a Baroque specialty. Credulous Jacob expresses paternal shock and grief, but it is left to the yapping dog in the corner to sniff out the ruse. In the exhibition’s second section upstairs, Velasquez – court painter to Philip IV – is indirectly present as royal art dealer, a genius to spot a genius. One of the works bought up for Philip IV during Velasquez’s second Italian visit was Bernini’s Crucifix. Not that this prevented the painter from taking time off to paint Innocent X’s portrait which can be seen today in Rome’s Galleria Doria Pamphilj. Via a section dedicated to another Neapolitan master, Vaccaro, we reach the final room. As though to compensate for his childlessness and chronic illhealth and restore the fading lustre to il siglo d’oro, Charles II (1665-1700) invited a series of artists to Spain, most notably Luca Giordano. The same Luca Fapresto (Luca paints quickly) remained there ten

years, earning the title of caballero, (a gentleman). Three paintings here show the honour was well-deserved. In Noah’s drunkenness, grapes offer themselves to the viewer’s touch while the cloth with which Shem covers his father’s nakedness is of a richness to do Titian proud. Balaam’s ass, as in Velasquez’s dog on the floor below, shows how an animal can sometimes see what here even, in Balaam’s case, a prophet cannot – namely the angel blocking Balaam’s way toward Balak, the Moabite king who has invited the prophet to invoke God’s curse on the invading Israelites. Balaam raises his stick to beat the fractious beast, which (or rather who?), seconds later, will also speak. Giordano makes the animal disconcertingly human. The third painting – The Taking of Christ – encapsulates time and space with a precision modern film directors might envy. Illuminating three separate episodes, the torches might but for the solemnity of the subject matter be fireworks, while at the end of one of the painting’s dramatic diagonals glimmers a crescent moon. Using his good offices, Giordano invited to Spain the still life painter, Andrea Belvedere, two of whose works occupy a room in the Scuderie exhibition. Then arrived Francesco Solimena, Giordano’s former pupil from Naples. Solimena had aged; the two miniatures here were evidently helped by his wearing two pairs of spectacles. A far cry from his youth: frescoing Naples’ Donnaregina church with the Miracle of the roses, the same Solimena had once prompted a certain cardinal to complain that the artist’s good looks would distract the adjoining cloister’s Franciscan nuns from their devotions. It’s a fitting end to an epoch (whether Hapsburg or Baroque), and also to an exhibition which lingers in the mind long after one has left. The exhibition can be seen until 30 July. Scuderie del Quirinale, Via XXIV Maggio 16, tel. 639967500, www.scuderiequirinale.it. June 2017 | Wanted in Rome

RESTORATION

Mike Dilien

A DOLL’S HOUSE IN TESTACCIO A restoration workshop in Rome showcases one of Italy’s disappearing crafts

fine tinkle resonates when you open the door to Le Bambole di Testaccio, a small bottega (workshop) on Via Luca della Robbia. Inside the shop, on high shelves, in glass display cases and on small wooden tables stand porcelain dolls, Venetian masks, jewellery, snuffboxes and carillon musical boxes. The place breathes the atmosphere of a tidy theatre prop room.

Artists Gianni and Eliana Ranaldi are welcoming from behind the counter. “The interview, right?” asks Eliana, an elegant woman wearing a black dress. “Our daughter told me about it.” The fine tinkle sounds again: two women enter the shop. Eliana greets them by their first names. The women come for a repair Gianni did. It is getting crowded in the small shop; I ask

Le Bambole di Testaccio has been in business for almost three decades.

Wanted in Rome | June 2017

whether I am disturbing them and perhaps I should come back later? “No,” Eliana says, “not at all.” She takes a glossy book from the counter. “Look. We’re the only ones who got three pages” The book is a Japanese travel guide. “Of course I can’t read it,” she says referring to the Japanese text, “but what they write about us must be positive, don’t you think?”

RESTORATION

Gianni and Eliana Ranaldi’s customers are mainly local and aged over 40.

Eliana goes behind the counter and points at a black-and-white portrait of a young hippy couple. “We married very young,” she explains. When the couple wed in 1972, Eliana was 15 and Gianni 22. Irene was born a year later. The family lived with Gianni’s parents in Vicolo del Fico, near Piazza Navona, at the time a real community neighbourhood. They sold their creations in the Porta Portese market and its alternative locations on Via Sannio, Piazza di Spagna and Piazza Navona. All artists who sold their work in these squares were young, poor and self-taught. “You have to be like a musician who can play by ear and can play a tune he has just heard,” Eliana explains. Yet the police frequently raided the squares. “You can’t remember the anni di piombo,” [the period of left- and right-wing politically motivated terrorist attacks in the 1970s] she says. “Ti ricordi?” she asks a customer who has just entered the shop. The man, a collector, agrees. While hearing Eliana talk, one senses that she has told her story before.

She remembers there was no competition, since every artist created something different. On the contrary, there was a sense of solidarity: Italian artists sold the creations of their foreign peers – mainly Chilean exiles – who were not allowed to sell their work in Italy. She wonders: “Do young people still stand up for each other?” Shop owners, for example those on Via dell’Orso, knowing that arts and crafts would boost their sales, used to invite artists to street markets. Eliana says that if a shop owner were to ask her to organise a street market today, she would not find enough artists. In the mid-1980s the artistic level of the Piazza Navona scene started to deteriorate. “Have you seen the square recently?” she asks. “I never go there anymore.” Hence, Gianni and Eliana founded Consart (Consorzio degli artigianati). The consortium organised temporary exhibitions in what were then the dim underpasses of Piazza Colonna on Via del Corso – “people went there to pee” – and what is now a luxury shopping mall. It was Eliana who coined the term sottopasseggiare.

“I invented the word,” she says with a smile. “You can jot that down.” From high shelves, dolls in elegant outfits, each with a different expression in its eyes, stare down at the customers. In a 2006 television interview, Eliana explained she learned a lot from the nuns who ran the school she attended in the Portuense district and from her grandmother, who taught her how to make a doll’s dress. Eliana restores antique dolls made of porcelain, celluloid – popular in the Fascist era – and papier-mâché. Her pièce de résistance is the meticulous restoration of a 1.5m-tall antique Sicilian Moor made entirely of wood. When repairing, she carefully studies the object. The eyes and the eye mechanism are the hardest parts of an antique doll to restore. She distinguishes restoration from creation. For her own creations, Eliana prefers natural materials like cotton and silk to artificial materials like nylon and plastic. Every doll is a unique piece; there are no series. Besides antique dolls, Gianni and Eliana also restore religious statues, June 2017 | Wanted in Rome

RESTORATION

The city is still trying to get the artists in Piazza Navona under control.

mainly statues in plaster that the Vatican restorers have not accepted. “You have no idea how much art is crumbling inside churches.” When Gianni and Eliana restored a statue for the church of S. Saba, the churchgoers collected the money for the restoration. Eliana points at a beautiful Venetian mask. She tells of an Italo-American woman who likes traditional costumes and combines them with Venetian masks. The collector comments that the other day he was in Venice. In Burano he spotted “Made In China” and later, in the centre, he was ripped off in a restaurant. When I remark that also in Rome’s fashionable Monti area, restaurants and wine bars are replacing restorers and antiquaries, Eliana sighs. “Nowadays one only sees restaurateurs,” she says, and clarifies: “Restaurateurs, not restorers.” Though near retirement, Gianni and Eliana do not have an apprentice or someone who would continue Le Bambole. “Young people want to learn,” Eliana says, “but youngsters who now design jewellery don’t see themselves still designing jewellery 20 years from now.” She assumes that young artists do not want to take the risks that go with entrepreneurship.

Gianni and Eliana set up shop in 1988. At the time, Testaccio was an industrial neighbourhood whose industries were shutting down. “People said we were mad opening a store like this in a neighbourhood like Testaccio. But the day the shop opened its doors, people were queuing!” It was in 1998, during a Christmas fair in the Galleria Colonna, that Le Bambole had its most successful day. Gianni was manning a stand while Eliana attended the shop. However, the demand was such that by the afternoon Gianni had to abandon the fair and return to the shop where Eliana had run out of stock. Customers are mainly local and all are over 40. Eliana explains: older customers often have a family heirloom they would like repaired, but the younger generation buy a new doll for their grandchildren. Both Cinecittà and Hollywood consult the Ranaldis for props. Many film and theatre actors moved into the area in the 1990s and have become regular customers. In Testaccio, trendy bars, restaurants and the new market all breathe the slick “Made in Italy” image. Since 2000, the neighbourhood houses the Istituto Europeo di

Design on Via Alcamo, near the former slaughterhouse. According to daughter Irene, Italy nowadays is all about design; craftsmanship is disappearing. She says “vintage” is where high and low culture meet. For instance, Gianni once made a tie out of a Coca Cola can. Eliana complains that amid the upmarket apartments and terraces, artists’ stalls are exhibiting Roman street views and celebrity portraits. Yet the street views are on pre-printed paper and the portraits are tacky caricatures, she says. Rome’s city government has been trying for years to regulate the artists in Piazza Navona and is now trying again. It recently announced that it will set up a commission to judge the artistic merit of those applying for permission to display their art in public spaces. On Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, passing one souvenir shop after another, it is easy to understand why Gianni and Eliana remain in Testaccio and that they would never trade for a more central, tourist location. In the 2006 TV interview, Eliana stated “I don’t aspire to own things.” She creates them instead. June 2017 | Wanted in Rome

BAKERIES

Paula Berner Magalhaes

THE SECRETS OF ROME’S ARTISAN BAKERIES

Tradition and quality are key ingredients at three of Rome’s artisan bakeries BISCOTTIFICIO ARTIGIANO INNOCENTI Three generations of biscuit specialists

n a narrow street in Rome’s Trastevere neighbourhood, the blending of gastronomic and family traditions can be tasted, and it tastes delightfully sweet. Since 1940, the Innocenti family has owned the Biscottificio Artigiano Innocenti, a biscuit factory now run by Stefania Innocenti, third generation of biscuit specialists. The Biscottificio operates on the ground floor of a charming house. Colourful biscuits are displayed all across the counter, an overwhelming display that makes it hard to pick and taste only one kind. The protagonist of the place, however, is an oven, approximately 15m long, especially tailored and built in situ during the 1960s. “This oven is a perfect machine,” says Stefania. It possesses a gear wheel to control the speed of the surface where the biscuits are baked while sliding from the kitchen into the shop.

Wanted in Rome | June 2017

Stefania Innocenti is the third generation of her family to make biscuits at Biscottificio Artigiano Innocenti.

“Mamma is the soul of this business and this oven is the heart of the shop,” Stefania tells me with a smile while insisting that I try a warm castagnola. Countless kinds of biscuits have been baked in this shop. Stefania’s grandfather used to tell her about producing massive quantities of biscuits that were used as rations for soldiers during world war two. Later on, Ste-

fania’s parents started experimenting with different ingredients. While the traditional recipes have always been appreciated and respected, new ones started coming up and claiming their space too. The only condition has always been a commitment to fresh, carefully-selected ingredients. No preservatives and no animal fat are used. Currently, Stefania tells me, she

BAKERIES wouldn’t even be able to count how many types of biscuits she bakes each day. But she estimates an average of 60 different kinds of flavours and shapes, each one of them still completely hand-made. A timeless photo of her mother hangs on one wall, where the Biscottificio surrounds her in seemingly identical conditions as those of today. Stefania remembers helping her parents as a little girl, putting biscuits into paper bags and handing them over to costumers. Working there has come naturally. “It was a given, I suppose,” she tells me with a content smile. The key to every single biscuit’s turning out delicious and unique is not only the cautious selection of the ingredients, but also the assortment and wellbeing of the staff. After all, Stefania believes that great baking is not achieved through talented hands and the right ingredients alone, but also through putting enough heart into the work. The harmony among her team is crucial: “If this place is like home, they are like my family,” she says. It does indeed seem that she is right at home, and everyone who walks in is kindly invited into her delicious-smelling kitchen.

Walking in, one is immediately hit by a sense of sophistication and the smell of chocolate. Piera Minelli stands behind a chocolate-filled counter carefully wrapping each treat by hand. She says proudly that in the 19th century, when Moriondo & Gariglio moved to Rome, a renowned chocolatier from Turin called Carlo Enrico Cuniberto took charge of the establishment. She calls him “the master chocolatier”. It was he who established Moriondo & Gariglio’s reputation for excellence and invented the recipes, still in use, which aim for complex flavours through simplicity. Only a handful of fresh and natural ingredients have ever been used here. The passing on of tradition at Moriondo & Gariglio started in 1943, when 12-year-old orphan Marcello Proietti arrived at the establishment to work serving tables. The master chocolatier, who did not have children, adopted Proietti by initiating him into his art and confiding his secret recipes. Piera Minelli arrived at Moriondo & Gariglio in 1965, and became Proietti’s business and life partner. It is their son

Attilio Proietti who now carries on the chocolate tradition and keeps the secret recipes alive. To Piera Minelli, the seasons start in October “with marrons glacés, our specialty”. Torrone and chocolates assume pine-tree shapes at Christmas, and then heart shapes on St Valentine’s Day. In March, yellow marzipan imitates mimosa flowers. At Easter, personalised chocolate eggs conceal gifts, an idea from the master chocolatier in the 1900s. Aside from the seasonal treats, an average of 30 to 60 kinds of chocolates are produced at Moriondo & Gariglio daily, all deriving from the master chocolatier’s recipes. Walking in at door number 21, one is invited to taste through palate, smell and sound with Minelli’s stories from the early 1900s, when the master chocolatier first crafted cactus-shaped marzipan sharing a worktable with his friend, the Roman dialect poet Trilussa. Within Moriondo & Gariglio’s own oral traditions, recipes are kept secret but great historical tales are offered on the house while the chocolate treats speak for themselves.

MORIONDO & GARIGLIO Century of secret chocolate recipes A discreet door at Via del Pie’ di Marmo 21 opens the way to an elegant confectionery with a longstanding history. Moriondo & Gariglio is named after the two cousins who started this business in 1850 in Turin. This chocolate factory was the first to move to Rome in the 1870s, just when Rome was becoming the capital of the newly-unified Italy. Its recipes have been a secret for over 100 years, passed on by word of mouth from its creator up to the current chocolatier, Attilio Proietti, who manages operations with his mother, Piera Minelli.

Attilio Proietti and Piera Minelli run the historic Moriondo & Gariglio. June 2017 | Wanted in Rome

BAKERIES nusstorte (hazelnut pie), and frying some traditional Italian bigné di S. Giuseppe, all in a matter of minutes. Meanwhile, he talks in a mixture of English, Italian and German, referring to his specialties by their original names. Ceccarelli proudly maintains his production methods as they were in the 1980s, refusing to incorporate over-processed ingredients or rely on too many machines. He achieves traditional tastes through quality ingredients, producing a homemade feel that, paradoxically, makes eating out all the more special. “I cook at La Dolceroma as if I were cooking at home for myself and for my family,” he says. Living proof of that are his four children, all of whom have grown up happily indulging in his creations at the confectionery. Stefano Ceccarelli has created Italian and Austrian treats for three decades at La Dolceroma.

LA DOLCEROMA Austrian and American specialties with quality ingredients A passion for sweets and a concern for healthy eating don’t often appear in the same sentence, but they epitomise Stefano Ceccarelli, owner and chef of La Dolceroma. In his small workshop in the Jewish ghetto, Ceccarelli has been working for 30 years to create Austrian and American specialties from quality ingredients such as coconut sugar, organic flour and oats, free-range eggs and biodynamic apples. At Via Del Portico d’Ottavia, an American flag hangs on a door. “La Dolceroma” is written right above it, while the combined sight and smell of a counter filled with Austrian cakes and biscuits is mouth-watering, to say the least. One of the stars of his counter is the Sachertorte, the Viennese cake made of whipped chocolate and butter, filled with apricot jam, for

which Ceccarelli soon became known in Rome. The mixture of American, Austrian and Italian elements at La Dolceroma is a reflection of the owner’s life: Ceccarelli studied confectionery in Austria and in the USA, and his menu consists of traditional recipes from both these places, with a touch of Italian ingredients here and there, such as the celebrated hazelnuts from Viterbo. La Dolceroma started as a support bakery to produce desserts for the restaurant next door. Soon enough, Ceccarelli had built a clientele of his own and the business developed into the successful confectionery that it is today. Behind the counter, Ceccarelli and his two assistants move quickly and seamlessly in the small space that is his workshop. With a smiling face and fast-moving hands, Ceccarelli navigates the bakery world by preparing American cheesecakes, decorating an Austrian

Biscottificio Artigiano Innocenti

Via della Luce 21, tel. 065803926. Moriondo & Gariglio

Via del Pie’ di Marmo 21, tel. 066990856. La Dolceroma

Via del Portico d’Ottavia 20/B, tel. 0645470303, www.ladolceroma.com. June 2017 | Wanted in Rome

rome’s major

Museums vatican museums

For more details see www.museiincomuneroma.it and www.beniculturali.it.

Below is a list of the major museums and archaeological sites in Rome. Book tickets for many Rome museums and archaeological sites on tel. 060608 or online at www.060608.it. Book tickets for the Borghese Museum, Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia, Palazzo Barberini and Palazzo Corsini online at www.beniculturali.it.

Vatican Museums

Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, mv.vatican.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. MonSat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va. Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons. org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums. state museums Baths of Diocletian Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed. Borghese Museum Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria. borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian. Castel S. Angelo Museum Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo. com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. COLOSSEUM, ROMAN FORUM AND PALATINE Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

Wanted in Rome | June 2017

Crypta Balbi Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel. 0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian. Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed. Palazzo Corsini Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.galleriaborghese.it/corsini/en. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.3019.30. Tues closed.

Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, www.gnam.beniculturali.it. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale Via Merulana 248, tel. 0646974832, www.museorientale.it. Interesting national collection of oriental art with some special exhibitions from its own collection and special loans. Tues, Wed, and Fri. 09.00-14.00. Thurs, Sat, Sun. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian on Sun (11.00 and 17.00).

MAXXI Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum

Palazzo Altemps Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. An-

Castel S. Angelo

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Roman Forum

cient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed. Palazzo Barberini Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.galleriabarberini. beniculturali.it. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. Palazzo Massimo alle Terme Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.0019.45. Mon closed. VILLA FARNESINA Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays. city museums Centrale Montemartini Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, en.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance. Capitoline Museums Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, en.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun. Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The mu-

nicipal modern art collection. 10.0018.00. Mon closed. MACRO Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www. en.museomacro.org. The city’s collection of contemporary art, plus temporary exhibition space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed. Also MACRO Testaccio, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed. Museo Barracco Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.0019.00. Mon closed. Museo Canonica Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance). Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Museo Napoleonico Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.0019.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English. Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

private museums Casa di Goethe Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed. CHIOSTRO DEL BRAMANTE Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it. Doria Pamphilj Gallery Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00. Galleria Colonna Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance. GIORGIO DE CHIRICO HOUSE MUSEUM Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking. Keats-Shelley House Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking. June 2017 | Wanted in Rome

rome’s most active and contemporary

art galleries 1/9 Unosunove 1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com. A.A.M. Architettura Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ffmaam.it. Associazione Culturale Valentina Moncada Gallery holds exhibitions of international artists who are active in the international scene today. Via Margutta 54, tel. 063207956, www.valentinamoncada.com. Dorothy Circus Gallery Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com. Ex Elettrofonica This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica. com. Federica Schiavo Gallery Hosts large solo and group shows of well-known contemporary artists. Piazza di Montevecchio 16, tel. 0645432028, www.federicaschiavo.com. Fondazione Giuliani per l’Arte Contemporanea The Giuliani Foundation for Contemporary Art is a private non-profit foundation that produces three contemporary art exhibitions each year. Via Gustavo Bianchi 1, tel. 0657301091, www.fondazionegiuliani.org. Fondazione Pastifico Cerere This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pastificiocerere. com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

FONDAZIONE MEMMO Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www. fondazionememmo.it.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Fondazione Volume! The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume. com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Franz Paludetto Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com. Frutta This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via Giovanni Pascoli 21, tel. 06 68210988, www.fruttagallery.com. Gagosian Gallery The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel. 0642086498, www.gagosian.com. Galleria della Tartaruga

Galleria Marie-Laure Fleisch This contemporary art space is dedicated to exhibiting works on paper. Via di Pallacorda 15, tel. 0668891936, www.galleriamlf.com. Galleria della Tartaruga Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com. Galleria Il Segno Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italian and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com. GALLERIA MUCCIACCIA Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com. Giacomo Guidi Arte contemporanea This contemporary art gallery presents exhibitions from a diverse group of Italian and foreign artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Corso V. Emanuele II 282-284, tel. 0668801038, www.giacomoguidi.it. June 2017 | Wanted in Rome

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MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

GALLERIA VARSI A small but dynamic gallery near Campo de’ Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di S. Salvatore in Campo 51, tel. 0668309410, www.galleriavarsi.it.

Monitor

STUDIO SALES DI NORBERTO RUGGERI The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www. galleriasales.it.

Il Ponte Contemporanea Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via di Panico 5559, tel. 0668801351, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com. La Nuova Pesa Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it. MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com. Magazzino d’Arte Moderna Contemporary art galley that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com. Monitor This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, tel. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org. Monserrato Arte ‘900 This gallery in the Campo de’ Fiori area represents a range of contemporary Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 14, tel. 348/2833034. MONTORO12 Gallery promoting work by contemporary Italian and international artists. Via di Montoro 12, tel. 0668308500, www. m12gallery.com. Nomas Foundation Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.

Wanted in Rome | June 2017

tography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Operativa Arte Contemporanea A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com. PIAN DE’ GIULLARI Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 339 / 7254235, 366 / 3988603, www.piandegiullari2. blogspot.com. PLUS ARTE PULS Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 335 / 7010795, www.plusartepuls.com. RvB ARTS Rome-based gallery specialising in affordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www. rvbarts.com. Sala 1 This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www. salauno.com. s.t. foto libreria galleria Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art pho-

T293 The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it. The Gallery Apart This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it. TraleVolte This contemporary art gallery focuses on the relationship between art and architecture and hosts many solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org. Valentina Bonomo Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works specifically for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com. Wunderkammern This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www. wunderkammern.net. Z20 GALLERIA SARA ZANIN Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria offers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it.

exhibitions GEHARD DEMETZ: INTROJECTION 23 June-10 Sept Italian artist Gehard Demetz is known for his skilfully-crafted wooden sculptures of morose adolescents and children. His mysterious works often have “missing” pieces, raising various interpretations such as lost innocence, predestination and memories buried in the child psyche. His latest works are inspired by sacred and profane themes, juxtaposing churches and religious icons alongside a juvenile Hitler and Mao. MACRO, Via Nizza 138, www.museomacro.org. ZAHA HADID AND ITALY 23 June-28 Jan MAXXI hosts an exhibition dedicated to the Italian projects of the late architect Zaha Hadid, including the recently-opened Terminal Marittimo in Salerno, the Messner Mountain Museum in Plan de Corones, the almost complete City Life project in Milan and the MAXXI building itself. The exhibition comprises plans and three-dimensional models designed by the Iraqi architect, who had an intensive and enduring relationship with Italy until her death in March last year. MAXXI Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4, tel. 0632810, www.fondazionemaxxi. it/en. FUCO UEDA: YUMEI 9 June-15 July Dorothy Circus Gallery hosts Yumei, the first European solo exhibition by Japanese artist Fuco Ueda who is known for her vibrant colours. Her latest works, which feature flora, fauna and female figures in a floating world, have been painted with natural materials including powdered mineral pigments. The Dorothy Circus Gallery specialises in international popsurrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com. SHAZIA SIKANDER 30 May-30 Sept Exhibition of mosaics and works on paper by Shazia Sikander. Her work includes drawing, video and digital animation, with diverse themes ranging from geopolitical changes and migration, to religion and human identity. Galleria Valentina Bonomo, Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.

Wanted in Rome | June 2017

RACHEL WHITEREAD 26 May-29 July One of the leading international artists of her generation, Rachel Whiteread won the Turner Prize in 1993 and four years later became the first female artist to represent the UK at the Venice Biennale. Her approach to sculpture is predicated on the translation of negative space into solid form, and her works explore architecture, space, absence and memory. Galleria Lorcan O’Neill hosted the artist’s first solo show in Italy a decade ago. Galleria Lorcan O’Neill, Vicolo dei Catinari, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com. IL MERAVIGLIOSO MONDO Dl WAL 20 May-1 Oct Exhibition showcasing the “wonderful world” of Walter Guidobaldi, or Wal, and 50 of his fantasy works made of marble, bronze and terracotta. Wal is known for his sculptures – both monumental and tiny – featuring mischievous cherubs and animals such as owls, cats, rabbits, piglets and penguins. Casina delle Civette, Via Nomentana 70, tel. 060608, www.museivillatorlonia.it PINTORICCHIO PITTORE DEI BORGIA 19 May-10 Sept The Capitoline Museums displays a beautiful fragment of a female face from Renaissance master Pintoricchio’s recently-rediscovered pictorial cycle in the Vatican’s Borgia apartments. Born in Perguia in 1454, Bernardino di Betto acquired the nickname Pintoricchio (“little painter”) thanks to his small stature. He died in Siena in 1513. Capitoline Museums, Piazza del Campidoglio 1, tel. 06 39967800, www.museicapitolini.org.

Yumei exhibition by Fuco Ueda at Dorothy Circus Gallery. Soft Attachment by Ueda.

The Italian projects of architect Zaha Hadid are the focus of an exhibition at MAXXI.

Introjection by Gehard Demetz at MACRO on Via Nizza. Hitler and Mao by Demetz.

CONVERSATION PIECE 19 May-17 Sept The Galleria Nazionale presents a selection of works from the ”la Caixa” collection of contemporary art, which was founded in 1985 by Spain’s ”la Caixa” banking foundation and now comprises more than 900 pieces. The works on display are by a diverse group of international artists including Fernanda Fragateiro, Donald Judd, Agnes Martin, Juan Muñoz, Joan Hernández Pijuan, Doris Salcedo, Julião Sarmento, Thomas Schütte, Richard Serra, Jana Sterbak, Antoni Tàpies, Ignacio Uriarte, and Rachel Whiteread. Galleria Nazionale, Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 0632298221, www.lagallerianazionale.com. ITALO INSOLERA: IL BIANCO E NERO DELLA CITTÀ 12 May-9 July Urbanist, historian and author of Roma moderna, Italo Insolera was also a photographer whose 50 images on display document developments in city life in Rome between the immediate postwar period and the 1980s. Museo di Roma in Trastevere, Piazza S. Egidio 1B, tel. 065816563, www.museodiromaintrastevere.it. CROSS THE STREETS 7 May-1 Oct MACRO celebrates “40 years of Street Art and Writing” with a large-scale exhibition featuring work by some of the most important Italian and international artists associated with the movement. MACRO, Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.org. ARMAN 1954-2005 5 May-23 July A restrospective spanning half a century of works by the French-born American artist Arman (1928-2005). Part painter, part sculptor, Arman is best known for his “accumulations” and destruction/recomposition of objects, with 70 such examples on display at Palazzo Cipolla. Fondazione Roma Museo, Via del Corso 320, tel. 066786209, www.fondazioneromamuseo.it. ARTFUTURA 29 April-10 Sept This digital art exhibition explores the common ground shared by the creative arts and science. The show combines disciplines as diverse as robotics, information visualisation, sculpting with ferrofluids and painting with light. On display are works by Paul Friedlander (UK), Esteban Diácono (Argentina), Can Buyukberber (USA), Sachiko Kodama (Japan), Chico MacMurtrie/Amorphic Robot Works (USA) and Universal Ev-

Conversation Piece exhibition at Galleria Nazionale. Conversation Piece by Juan Muniz.

erything (UK). Ex-Dogana di Roma, Via dello Scalo di S. Lorenzo 10, www.artfuturaroma.it. ALESSANDRO TWOMBLY 26 April-30 Sept Galleria Alessandra Bonomo presents the latest works by Alessandro Twombly who is known for his colourful, expressionistic representations of flora. The new creations by the artist, son of the late American abstractionist Cy Twombly, include a bronze sculpture and works on canvas and paper in oil and gouache depicting mirage-like images inspired by landscapes of his childhood. Galleria Alessandra Bonomo, Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858, www.bonomogallery.com. PIERO GILARDI: NATURE FOREVER 13 April-15 Oct This exhibition by Piero Gilardi offers a critical examination of today’s society of consumption and technology, highlighting the complex relationship between man and nature. Centred around themes such as ecology, artistic research, and social and political commitment, the exhibition comprises significant works spanning the Turin artist’s 50-year career in art and activism. See cover this edition. MAXXI Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4, tel. 0632810, www.fondazionemaxxi.it/en.

Pintoricchio at Capitoline Museums. Madonna, frammento della distrutta Investitura divina di Alessandro VI, c. 1492-1493.

STILL SHOWING BOTERO 5 May-27 Aug The Vittoriano presents Italy’s first major retrospective dedicated to the work of Fernando Botero, the Colombian art-

ArtFutura exhibition at the ex-Dogana venue in S. Lorenzo. Universal Everything: Screens of the Future. June 2017 | Wanted in Rome

Piero Gilardi exhibition Nature Forever at MAXXI. Gilardi at work in his studio.

ist famous for his so-called Boterismo style which depicts people in exaggerated sizes. The exhibition comprises some 50 works spanning the lengthy career of the 85-year-old artist, with paintings from 1958 up to 2016 on display. Complesso del Vittoriano - Ala Brasini di Roma, Via di S. Pietro in Carcere (Piazza Venezia), www.ilvittoriano. com.

Arman exhibition at Palazzo Cipolla. Poubelle Ménagére, 1960, by Arman.

VIAGGIO NEI FORI 13 April-12 Nov Two outdoor events with music, light projections and historical commentary will be held at the Forum of Caesar and the Forum of Augustus every night until 12 November. The Viaggio nei Fori initiative attracted 140,000 spectators last year, according to the city. Details can be found on website, www.viaggioneifori.it. REAL BODIES 8 April-2 July Exhibition dedicated to the human body and its organs, muscles and skeletal system. The highlight of the 350 exhibits is the series of 12 entire bodies immortalised in a variety of sporting positions, such as running and jumping, demonstrating how our muscles and tendons work. The exhibition also provides anatomical insights into the human reproduction process and the impact of disease on internal organs. Guido Reni District, Via Guido Reni 7, www.realbodies.it.

Botero at the Vittoriano. Donna seduta.

Wanted in Rome | June 2017

I FORI DOPI I FORI 30 March-10 Sept Illustrating the history of the Imperial Fora after the fall of the Roman empire, based on the findings of excavations carried out over the last 25 years. Mercati di Traiano, Museo dei Fori Imperiali, Via Quattro Novembre 94. Info tel. 060608, www.mercatiditraiano.it.

DARIO FO E FRANCA RAME: IL MESTIERE DEL NARRATORE 23 March-25 June Exhibition dedicated to Dario Fo – the internationally celebrated Nobel prizewinning playwright, actor and director, who died last year aged 90 – and his wife Franca Rame, the theatre actress, playwright and political activist, who died in 2013. Comprising 150 pieces including artworks, scripts, photographs, puppets, masks and costumes, the exhibition tells the story of the husband and wife who founded the Dario FoFranca Rame Theatre Company in Milan in 1958. Palazzo Barberini, Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064814591, www.barberinicorsini.org. DA CARAVAGGIO A BERNINI 14 April-30 July Under the subheading Masterpieces of the Italian Seicento from the Spanish Royal Collection, this blockbuster exhibition reflects the strong political and cultural ties between the Spanish court and the Italian states during the 17th century. The exhibited paintings and sculptures were exchanged mainly as diplomatic gifts from Italian rulers keen to earn the favour of the Spanish overlords, in particular through the Viceroyalty of Naples and the Duchy of Milan. See article page 2. Scuderie del Quirinale, Via XXIV Maggio 16, tel. 639967500, www.scuderiequirinale.it. SPARTACUS: SLAVES AND MASTERS IN ROME 31 March-17 Sept The Ara Pacis uses 250 archaeological finds to examine the complex history of slavery in ancient Rome, with particular focus on the slave revolt led by Spartacus against the Roman Republic between 73 and 71 BC. Museo dell’Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta, tel. 06820771, www.arapacis.it.

COLOSSEO: UN’ICONA 8 March-7 Jan 2018 This exhibition uses installations, models and artefacts to shed light on how the Colosseum was used in the centuries after the fall of the Roman empire. The show includes recentlydiscovered evidence of a 12th-century fortress, which was built into the arena’s ruins by the powerful Frangipane family but collapsed in the 1349 earthquake. The exhibition recounts how the amphitheatre was pillaged for stone, how it was used for stables, slaughterhouses and workshops during the mediaeval era, and how the monument was completely overgrown by the time the Grand Tourists arrived from northern Europe in the 18th century. Colosseum, www.coopculture.it. GEORG BASELITZ: GLI EROI 4 March-18 June Exhibition displaying the Heroes cycle of paintings by Georg Baselitz, one of Europe’s most important contemporary artists, 50 years after he created the series aged 27. Baselitz’s unorthodox heroes are fragile, vulnerable, damaged, and include war-weary soldiers and struggling artists trying to find their place in post-war Germany. Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Via Nazionale 194, tel. 0639967500, www.palazzoesposizioni.it.

Spartacus exhibition at Ara Pacis Museum. Slave chains, Museo Arqueòlogico Nacional in Madrid.

GIOVANNI BOLDINI 4 March-16 July A retrospective exhibition dedicated to Giovanni Boldini comprising more than 250 works by the Ferrara artist, on loan from major museums and private collections around the world. Complesso del Vittoriano, Via di S. Pietro in Carcere (Piazza Venezia), tel. 068715111, www.ilvittoriano.com. GIUSEPPE PENONE: EQUIVALENZE 27 Jan-15 June The Gagosian holds an exhibition of work by Giuseppe Penone, a renowned Italian sculptor based between Turin and Paris. Associated with the Arte Povera movement, Penone is known for his works that engage with poetry, nature and time, using materials ranging from terracotta to iron. The exhibition coincides with the installation of a giant Penone sculpture outside Fendi’s flagship store in Largo Goldini. Gagosian Gallery, Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel. 0642086498, www.gagosian.com. See other exhibitions on our website www.wantedinrome.com.

Giovanni Boldini exhibition at the Vittoriano. Coppia in abito spagnolo con due pappagalli. June 2017 | Wanted in Rome

art news VENICE BIENNALE OPENS Under the title Viva Arte Viva, the 2017 edition of the prestigious Venice Biennale opened in mid-May. This year’s theme is described as “an exclamation, a passionate outcry for art and the state of the artist”, by its curator Christine Macel. The Biennale, now in its 57th edition, features 120 artists from 51 countries. It also includes 85 national pavilions, of which four countries are represented for the first time: Antigua and Barbuda, Kazakhstan, Kiribati and Nigeria. The German Pavilion won the 2017 Golden Lion for Best National Participation thanks to Anne Imhof’s Faust, a “powerful and disturbing installation that poses urgent questions about our time”, according to the Biennale jury. Her installation features black-clad performers squirming and crawling under a glass floor, as if imprisoned or part of some hideous human experiment. One of the main talking points in this year’s Biennale is Support by Italian artist Lorenzo Quinn who highlights Venice’s vulnerability amid climate change and rising sea levels. The installation comprises a pair of monumental hands surging out of the canal waters to seemingly brace the Ca’Sagredo hotel, a stark visual reminder of the dangers of global warming. America’s pavilion, by leading international artist Mark Bradford, is also causing quite a stir. Black, gay and liberal, Bradford asks how he can represent the US when he no longer feels represented by his own government. The Los Angeles-based artist has created a Palladian-style pavilion – with a nod to the White House – and turned its rotunda into a ruin, while in another room visitors have to squeeze around a giant hanging papier-mâché sculpture which dominates the space. The UK, too, keeps things on a grand scale. Phyllida Barlow, known for her colossal sculptural projects, has crammed the interior of the British pavilion with her Folly installation, comprising enormous plaster orbs, lumpy and colourful, attached to the tops of poles. Unlike in the last two editions, the Vatican does not have a pavilion in this year’s Biennale. The showcase of contemporary international art is held at the historic Giardini and Arsenale as well as at various venues throughout the city. For full details, in English, see website, www.labiennale.org. VATICAN AND ROME’S JEWISH MUSEUM HOLD JOINT EXHIBITION The Vatican Museums and the Jewish Museum of Rome present their first

Wanted in Rome | June 2017

Support by Lorenzo Quinn is a major talking point at the 2017 Venice Biennale.

joint exhibition in a move that is seen as underlining the much-improved Catholic-Jewish relations. Titled Menorah – Cult, History and Myth, the landmark exhibition is being held simultaneously in St Peter’s Square and at the Great Synagogue of Rome until 23 July. The exhibition’s focus is the menorah, the ancient symbol of Judaism, and how it has been depicted in Jewish, Catholic and secular art down through the centuries. An exhibition highlight is the recently-discovered Magdala Stone, a carved stone block dating to before the destruction of the Second Temple in Jerusalem in the year 70. The Braccio di Carlo Magno venue in St Peter’s Square houses 120 works while the smaller Jewish Museum, part of the city’s Great Synagogue complex, is hosting ten works. Some 20 major international museums have contributed pieces to the show which is “significant from both the religious as well as the historical aspects,” according to Barbara Jatta, the newly-installed director of the Vatican Museums. Pope Francis visited the Great Synagogue in January 2016, during the Vatican’s Holy Jubilee Year of Mercy. It was the third visit by a pope, following Benedict XVI in 2010 and the historic 1986 visit by John Paul II. MAXXI TRIPLES ITS PERMANENT COLLECTION Italian president Sergio Mattarella visited Rome’s MAXXI Museo nazionale delle arti del XXI secolo on 5 May for the launch of The place to be, the new display of the museum’s permanent collection which triples its exhibition space. The national museum of the 21st-century arts has undergone a “re-evolution” that makes its “more open, more digital and more welcoming”, according to MAXXI president Giovanna Melandri. There is now free

admission to the entire ground floor of MAXXI from Tuesday to Friday, and greater emphasis on the museum’s external Piazza Alighiero Boetti which features three new large-scale installations by Elisabetta Benassi, Mircea Cantor and Ugo Rondinone. Inside, Gallery 1 comprises over 60 works of art, architecture and photography, dating from the 1960s to recent times, by important Italian and international artists including Britain’s Gilbert & George and South African artist William Kentridge. Gallery 2 houses temporary exhibitions while there is a new video gallery with extra space for education workshops in the museum, which was designed by Zaha Hadid – the focus of an exhibtion opening on 23 June, see page 20 – and is located in Rome’s Flaminio district near the Auditorium Parco della Musica. For details see MAXXI website, www.maxxi.art/en. Andy Devane

President of Italy Sergio Mattarella is welcomed by MAXXI president Giovanna Melandri.

CLASSICAL Most of main musical associations and auditoriums in Rome finish their main seasons in June but there are still plenty of other concerts and musical events throughout the summer, many of them organised by smaller associations. Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com. Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org. Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All the concerts take place at the Auditorium Parco della Musica (see address above). Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it. Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone.com. RomeConcerts, Methodist Chruch, Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it. Roma Sinfonietta, Auditorium Ennio Morricone, Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Roma Tre Orchestra, Teatro Palladium, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it ACCADEMIA FILARMONICA ROMANA I GIARDINI DI LUGLIO There is always a series of musical and dance events and meetings during July in the gardens of the Filarmonica, Via Flaminia 118. The programme details will be published on the academy’s website, www.filarmonicaromana.org. ACCADEMIA S. CECILIA YURI TERMIRKANOV JULIA FISCHER 8-10 June Yuri Termirkanov conducts the S. Ce-

Stefano Bollani is back at the Auditorium Parco della Musica on 5 July in the Luglio Suona Bene programme.

cilia Orchestra with Julia Fischer violin performing Brahms violin concerto. The programme also includes Dvorak’s New World symphony. Fischer has a vast repertoire and a long recording history. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it. YURI TERMIRKANOV 15-17 June Tchaikovsky’s Francesca da Rimini and Swan Lake conducted by Yuri Termirkanov with the S. Cecilia Orchestra and Chorus, as well as three Rachmaninov songs. The short symphonic poem Francesca da Rimini was composed in a few weeks when Tchaikovsky was visiting Bayreuth in 1876 and is thought to show the influence of both Liszt and Wagner on Tchaikovsky. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it. LORD OF THE RINGS 21-22 June Peter Jackson’s film will be screened to the live music of Howard Shore’s soundtrack played by the orchestra and chorus of S. Cecilia, conducted by Shih-Hung Young with Clara Sanabras soprano. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www. santacecilia.it.

Lord of the Rings sound track will be played live by the S. Cecilia orchestra to the screening of the film on 21-22 June.

Wanted in Rome | June 2017

JULY AT S. CECILIA S. Cecilia has programmed a series of evening concerts in the cavea at the Auditorium Parco della Musica under the umbrella of Luglio Suona Bene. Popular jazz pianist Stefano Bollani performs on 5 July, conductor and pianist Ezio Bosso on 12 July, Philip Glass will play in a concert to mark his 80th birthday on 16 July and S. Cecilia orchestra and chorus will perform Carmina Burana on 19 July. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it. ISTITUZIONE UNIVERSITARIA DEI CONCERTI YOUTH ORCHESTRA SINFONIETTA ISARTAL 15 June The Munich-based youth orchestra plays music by Rossini, Mendelssohn and Beethoveen conducted by Winfried Grabe with Daniel Nodel violin. Aula Magna La Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it. ROMA TRE ITALIAN DISCOVERIES 12 June The Roma Tre Orchestra with Roberto Prosseda piano plays music by Italian composers Fano and Omizzolo, as well as Dvorak’s New World symphony. Teatro Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, www.teatropalladium.uniroma3.it. ROMECONCERTS March-3 Nov Concerts every Friday evening in the centre of Rome featuring opera arias, duets and Romantic piano classics. The two founders, Giovanni Velluti and Alessandro Fantini, are dedicated to bringing music to the historic centre. Concerts are at the Methodist Church, Piazza Ponte S. Angelo at 19.30.

cert by singer-songwriter Andy Shauf whose melancholy tales and gentle harmonies reflect his prairie roots in Canada’s Saskatchewan province. For details including tickets see Monk website, www.monkroma.it.

The Isartal Youth Orchestra performs at the IUC on 15 June.

ORVIETO ORVIETO4EVER 4 July Andrea Bocelli heads the 4 July concert in front of Orvieto’s cathedral along with other Italian and American stars. This is the fourth edition organised by Dream Loud in New York with the patronage of the United States embassy to Italy and the city of Orvieto. There could be few better settings for a 4 July concert. Orvieto at 21.00.

POP, ROCK, JAZZ PETER BRODERICK + DAVID ALLRED 9 June Unplugged in Monti presents a concert by Peter Broderick + David Allred whose minimal, pared-down style sees them performing with nothing but their voices, a violin and an upright bass. The performance takes place at 21.00 in the intimate setting of Black Market in the Monti quarter. Advance reservation is required. For details see Unplugged in Monti website, www.unpluggedinmonti.com. ANDY SHAUF AT MONK CLUB 13 June Rome’s Monk Club presents a con-

DEEP PURPLE 22 June Veteran English heavy rock band Deep Purple come to Rome as part of its Long Goodbye Tour, almost half a century after forming in Hertford. The original vocalist and songwriter Ian Gillan still fronts the band which is best known for its massive international hit Smoke on the Water in 1971. Palalottomatica, Piazzale Pier Luigi Nervi 1, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it. DEPECHE MODE 25 June English alternative electronic music group Depeche Mode will play in Rome’s Olympic Stadium on 25 June. The band has sold over 100 million albums and singles worldwide, making it the most successful electronic group in music history. Tickets can be bought at www.ticketone.it. Stadio Olimpico, Viale dei Gladiatori. 2CELLOS 26 June 2Cellos perform at Il Centrale Live – Foro Italico di Roma on 26 June. The classically-trained duo from Croatia is known for playing instrumental arrangements of well-known pop and rock songs as well as classical music and film scores. For tickets see TicketOne website, www.ticketone.it. Centrale Live - Foro Italico, Via dei Gladitori. U2 15-16 July U2 perform two concerts at Rome’s Olympic Stadium as part of a worldwide tour celebrating the 30th anniversary of the band’s release of The

U2 perform two Joshua Tree concerts in Rome.

Joshua Tree, which has sold over 25 million copies. The band will play the entire album, which spawned the massive hit singles With or Without You, I Still Haven’t Found What I’m Looking For, and Where the Streets Have No Name. The Irish rockers will be supported by Noel Gallagher’s High Flying Birds. Stadio Olimpico, Viale dello Stadio Flaminio 1.

dance FLORENCE FABBRICA EUROPA 2017 Until 15 June The Fabbrica Europa programme continues in Florence with choreographers and dancers from Tibet, India, China and the Mediterranean basin. Traditional rituals are transformed into contemporary dance, performed by internationally known and up-and-coming new dancers. The events take place at Stazione Leopoldo and other locations around the city. www.fabbricaeuropa. net.

MILAN TEATRO ALLA SCALA

The Kaiser Chiefs perform at the Auditorium Parco della Musica for Luglio Suona Bene.

A MIDSUMMER NIGHT’S DREAM MENDELSSOHN 28 June-22 July Balanchine’s Midsummer Night’s Dream comes back to La Scala danced by the students of La Scala’s famous ballet academy. This is La Scala’s 2003 version with scenery and sets by Luisa Spinatelli. David Coleman conducts the La Scala orchestra. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodramamatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org. June 2017 | Wanted in Rome

YOUNG ARAB CHOREOGRAPHERS Six young choreographers will tour Italy until September under the auspices of the ministry of culture. Guy Nader (Lebanon), Bassam Abou Diab (Lebanon), Jad Tank (Lebanon), Mounir Saeed (Egypt), Hamdi Dridi (Tunisia) and Sharaf Dar Zaid (Palestine) will visit Pescara, Potenza and Matera, Bologna, Turin, Rome, Brescia, Florence and Ancona.

festivals Eleonora Abbagnato returns to Spoleto in Il Mito di Medea a new choreography by Davide Bombana.

SWAN LAKE 8-12 July The students of La Scala Ballet academy dance this Tchaikovsky favourite. It is based on the Petipa choreography with adaptions by Alexei Ratmansky and is a co-production with Zurich’s Opernhaus. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodramamatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

RAVENNA RAVENNA FESTIVAL 8-29 June The dance events in the Ravenna festival include Les Memoires d’un seigneur by Olivier Dubois and the Ballet du Nord, in which amateur dancers crowd around a single man, Sebastien Perrault, in a work of powerful male seduction (8 June); a full-length version of Material Men by Shobana Jeysingh, London-based Indian-born hip-hop dancer based on the theme of Indian colonial exploitation (10 June). Excerpts from the repertoire of the Ballet Nacional de Cuba (29 June). Events are at Palazzo Mauro de Andre, Viale Europa 1, and Teatro Alighieri, Via Mariani 2, www.ravennafestival.org.

SPOLETO ELEONORA ABBAGNATO Eleonara Abbagnato returns to dance at Spoleto this year on 1-2 July where she is performing in Il Mito di Medea choreographed by Davide Bombana in homage to Maria Callas on the 40th anniversary of her death. Benjamin Pech and Audric Bezard from the Paris Opera, as well as Rebecca Bianchi from the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma will also dance. Eleonora Abbagnato heads the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma ballet academy and is an etoile at the Paris Opera. Teatro Romano, Spoleto www.festivaldispoleto.com. ROBERTO BOLLE AND FRIENDS If you haven’t already had a chance to see Roberto Bolle, the principal dancer of both the American Theatre Ballet and La Scala you will be able to catch him touring Italy this summer with his specially invited friends. Florence on 7-8 July. Opera di Firenze, Piazzale Vittorio Gui 1. Rome on 11-13 July. Baths of Caracalla. Spoleto on 15 July. Festival di Spoleto, Piazza del Duomo. Verona 17 July. Fondazione Arena.

Les Memoires d’un seigneur by Olivier Dubois is performed at the Ravenna Festival on 8 June.

Wanted in Rome | June 2017

¡FIESTA! 31 May-Sept The 23rd edition of the four-month festival that brings Latin American music, dance, food and culture to Rome. Each year Latin American dancers and singers take to the stage, providing over 100 hours of live music from Latin America’s diverse ethnic cultures. Highlights in June include Daddy Yankee (15 June), Los 4 (23 June) and Jacob Forever (24 June). Located at Parco Rosati in the city’s EUR district, the popular summer festival is designed to raise awareness of Latin American culture and act as a bridge between Italians and the estimated 100,000 Latin Americans living in the Lazio region. For programme see website. Parco Rosati, Via delle Tre Fontane 24 (EUR), tel. 0687463296, www.fiesta.it. GAY VILLAGE 8 June-Sept Gay Village celebrates its 16th edition with a programme of shows, live dj sets, theatre, film screenings and special guests. The 15,000-sqm venue is divided into three separate music areas offering Pop, House and Hits, and there are stalls, bars and restaurants. For full details see website. Parco del Ninfeo, Via delle Tre Fontane, EUR, tel. 065809098, www.gayvillage.it. LUGLIO SUONA BENE 17 June-3 Aug In the 15 years since the inauguration of the Auditorium Parco della Musica, this musical initiative has gained a sturdy reputation for the quality and variety of its programme with concerts most evenings in July at the Auditorium’s open-air “cavea”. Translating as “July sounds good”, the programme caters for all tastes and includes pop, rock, world music, jazz, classical and electronic music. Kicking off on 17 June with Bastille, festival highlights in June include Jethro Tull (23 June), The Cranberries (26 June), and The Beach Boys (27 June). Big international names in July include Kaiser Chiefs (6 July), The

Pretenders (14 July), Charles Aznavour (23 July), Tom Jones (26 July), and The Divine Comedy (29 July). The festival ends on 3 Aug with I Tamburi del Vesuvio. For full programme see website. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin, www.auditorium.com. See also Classical. JUST MUSIC FESTIVAL 20 June-9 July An expanded edition of this international music festival which launched in Rome last year returns with an eclectic line-up of acts, including many big names, with concerts mainly in the ExDogana venue in S. Lorenzo but also at Spazio Novecento in EUR. At the time of going to press the line-up included Rag’n’Bone Man (20 June), Nicholas Jaar (21 June), Roots in the City / Sizzla (2 July), Richie Hawtin (7 July), Carl Cox (8 July) and Fatboy Slim on 9 July. For full details see festival website, www. justmusicfestival.it. VILLA ADA: ROMA INCONTRA IL MONDO 30 June-Aug The 24th edition of Rome’s annual world music festival returns to the shores of the little lake in the gardens of Villa Ada this summer. Offering interesting multi-ethnic and multi-cultural music in pleasant surroundings, the event’s name translates as “Rome meets the world” and the festival. The programme, which begins on 30 June with Italian rapper Coez, includes several international acts such as American thrash band Suicidal Tendencies (3 July), Irish post-rock band God is an Astronaut (10 July), London avant-garde electronic group Archive (12 July), and Scottish rockers Primal Scream (16 July). The festival area opens each night at 20.00 so that the public can enjoy food and drink from one of the ethnic food stalls before the music kicks off at 22.00. There are ticket discounts for families, the unemployed, and students. For programme see website. Villa Ada, Via di Ponte Salario, tel. 0641734712, www.villaada.org.

festivals AROUND italy CREMONA MONTEVERDI FESTIVAL 7 April-24 June On the 450th anniversary of the birth of Monteverdi, often known as the father of modern opera, the festival this year focuses on the theme of the composer’s work Orpheus. As well as opera, poetry,

Damian Marley plays Rock in Roma on 23 June.

madrigals, dance and concerts there are also river concerts along the Po. The highlight of the festival will be the closing concert in Cremona’s cathedral of Vespro della Beata Vergine (24 June) conducted by John Eliot Gardiner with the Monteverdi Choir and the English Baroque Soloists. For details of the festival see Teatro Ponchielli, Corso Vittorio Emaneule II 52, Cremona, www.teatroponchielli.it. See also Opera Notes page 33.

RAVENNA RAVENNA FESTIVAL 25 May-11 July One of the themes of Italy’s top class multi-disciplinary festival this year is the “Noise of Time” taken from the title of the Julien Barnes novel based on the life of Shostakovich. The starting point is the Russian Revolution in October 1917, the subsequent destruction of old patterns

Primal Scream at Villa Ada on 16 July.

POSTEPAY SOUND ROCK IN ROMA

23 June-2 Aug Postepay Sound Rock in Roma is a summer-long event dedicated to rock music, hosting over 1.5 million fans and some of the world’s biggest-name rock bands since it began in 2009. The line-up of the ninth edition includes major rock, heavy metal and rap acts, as well as other genres of music, and kicks off with Damian Marley, the Jamaican reggae artist and youngest son of Bob, on 23 June, followed by Italian singer-songwriter and musician Daniele Silvestri (24 June), Samuel, lead singer of Subsonica (27 June), Italian singer Brunori Sas (4 July), rock band Alter Bridge + Blues Pills (5 July), Mannarino + Orchestraccia + Rogê, Lavinia Mancusi + Batuqueiros di Roma (6 July), Italian rappers J-Ax & Fedez (8 July), American singer-songwriter and rapper of Fugees fame, Ms. Lauryn Hill (9 July), English indie rock group The xx (10 July), Italian rappers Marra / Guè (13 July), German industrial band Einstürzende Neubauten + Spiritual Front (17 July). One of the highlights of this year’s music programme is a concert by American funk rock veterans Red Hot Chili Peppers + Knower (20 July), followed by English rockers Kasabian (21 July), French alternative rock group Phoenix (22 July), industrial metal singer Marilyn Manson (25 July), Italian alternative rockers Afterhours (27 July), electropop group Lo Stato Sociale + Ex-Otago (29 July), closing with American punk rock band The Offspring + Pennywise + Millencolin (2 Aug). The action takes place on three different-sized stages throughout the former Capannelle racecourse site near Ciampino. Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, wwww.rockinroma.com.

June 2017 | Wanted in Rome

Verona hosts the 95th edition of the Arena Festival.

of thought and tradition which then lead to the conflict between intellectual creativity and political power, hence the choice of Shostakovich. There will be the annual Roads of Friendship concert with the Tehran symphony orchestra and chorus together with by the Luigi Cherubini Youth Orchestra founded and conducted by Riccardo Muti on 8 July, plus a series of other concerts with international orchestras and soloists (Yuri Temirkanov with the St Peterburg Philharmonic on 4 July). There is a tribute to India to mark the 70th anniversary of independence (2224 June). The dance section features the Olivier Dubois company (8 June), the National Ballet of Cuba and the influence of Italy’s Futurist movement on dance with works by the Paolo Grassi Civic School of Theatre. Music and Cinema focuses on classical films with live music including Charlie Chaplin’s The Gold Rush (11 July) now fully restored by the Cineteca di Bologna, with the live music provided by the Luigi Cherubini Youth Orchestra. For full details see the festival website www. ravennafestival.org.

RAVELLO RAVELLO FESTIVAL Opens 1 July So far all we know is that the opening of the festival will be on 1 July at Villa Rufolo on the beautiful Amalfi coast with the first act of Wagner’s Valkyrie performed by the Hungarian Radio Symphony Orchestra conducted by Adam Fischer. A Philip Glass concert is booked on 18 July to mark his 80th birthday. A concert by Wayne Shorter is planned for the 16 July and it is expected that the Batsheva Dance Company will also take part. The festival organisers have also announced a new choreography by Karole Armitage and a performance by the stars of the New York City Ballet. To check for details in due course see www.ravellofestival. com.

Wanted in Rome | June 2017

ROME ROME CHAMBER FESTIVAL 2-8 June This year the festival offers classical and contemporary music in the Gran Salone of Palazzo Barberini. The festival combines well know and unknown names and offers free admission to the rehearsals as from 2 June. On 7 June Brahms, Bach and Vivladi as well as a selection of classical and contemporary mandolin and mandocello duets. On 8 June music is by Edgar Meyer and the Saint Saens Carnival of the Animals. The festival under its founder the violinist Robert McDuffie has gradually grown in stature from its early beginnings at the American Academy in 2004, before moving to the Oratorio Gonfalone off Via Giulia for six seasons and finally to Palazzo Barberini in 2012. For more details see the festival website, www.romechamberfestival.org

SPOLETO FESTIVAL DI SPOLETO 30 June-16 July Although its director Giorgio Ferrara claims that the festival improves year by year, it is still not quite what it was in the good old days of Giancarlo Menotti, the tenth anniversary of whose death is this year. To be sure there are several big names. The grandest is Riccardo Muti, who will conduct the closing concert with his Orchestra Giovanile Luigi Cherubini on 16 July at the Palazzo Del Duomo. There is the ubiquitous and talented dancer Roberto Bolle and his invitees (15 July). There is Eleonora Abbagnato who will dance a new work by Davide Bombana (see Dance). The poster this year has been designed by Anish Kapoor so it will certainly become a collector’s item as is the tradition. However there is only one full length opera for two nights only, Mozart’s Don Giovanni, conducted by James Conlon and directed by Giorgio Ferrara himself

(30 June, 2 July). In the opera section there is also a one act opera Delitto e Dovere based on Oscar Wilde’s short story Lord Arthur Savile’s Crime (7-9 July). Probably the most touching and significant moment of the festival will be Requiem composed by Silvia Colasanti and dedicated to all the victims of last year’s earthquake, as well as being a hymn of hope and rebirth (2 July). Colasanti trained at S. Cecilia and is considered one of the most important Italian composers of her generation. She has been awarded two of the country’s highest honours, first by President Giorgio Napolitano and then by his successor President Sergio Mattarella. It is a pity that it is on 2 July when the programme is already full to bursting and a pity too that there is only one performance. Locations for events are all around the town. See www.festivaldispoleto.com.

VERONA FONDAZIONE ARENA 27 June-27 August Funding is one of the major problems for the Arena festival and almost the first decision of its new president, Giuliano Polo, was to axe its resident ballet company in February this year. However the foundation is confident of its future as it has already published next year’s programme online. The confidence may be well placed as Polo has the steady hand of the sovrintendente of Rome’s Teatro dell’Opera, Carlo Fuortes, behind him, as well as his long administrative experience at Rome’s S. Cecilia. There are no real surprises in the 2017 repertoire, with the usual favourites of Nabucco (23 June26 Aug), Aida (in a 2013 staging on 24 June-24 July and in the traditional 1913 version 28 July-27 Aug), Rigoletto (1-27

Anish Kapoor’s poster design for the 60th edition of the Spoleto Festival.

July), Madame Butterfly (8 July-19 Aug), Roberto Bolle and Friends (17 July), Tosca (5-25 Aug). Among the extra attractions this year are Placido Domingo in a onenight gala appearance on 21 July singing Spanish popular music, and Beethoven’s 9th symphony on the Ferragosto holiday on 15 Aug. The new production this year is Nabucco, a first for the French director Arnaud Bernard, who already has another three new productions to his name this year; Tosca in Prague, I Vespri Siciliani in St Petersburg and Simon Boccanegra in Lausanne. Most performances of Nabucco will be conducted by Daniel Oren. However Spanish conductor Jordi Bernacer is making his debut at the Arena for three nights in July (12, 15, 18 July). Bernacer is also conducting Carmen at the Baths of Caracalla in Rome this summer (see Rome Festivals Caracalla). The 2013 Aida (4 June-24 July) is La Fura del Baus version which was commissioned to mark both the centenary of the Arena and the birth of Giuseppe Verdi in 1813. Madame Butterfly is the much-loved Zeffirelli version. Fondazione Arena, www.arena.it. OTHER SUMMER FESTIVALS UMBRIA JAZZ, 7-16 July MARTINA FRANCA, 14 July-5 Aug BOLZANO DANZA, 17-29 July MACERATA, 21 July-14 Aug INCONRI IN TERRA SIENA, 29 July-5 Aug

OPERA FLORENCE OPERA DI FIRENZE June and July The summer programme at the Opera di Firenze in June and July takes place in the courtyard of Palazzo Pitti. The programme of operas by Italian composers includes a new production of Rossini’s Cenerentola 9-30 June; Verdi’s La Traviata 16 June-1 July; Donizetti’s L’Elisir d’Amor 9-29 July and Rossini’s Il Barbiere di Siviglia 10-28 July. Opera di Firenze, Cortile di Palazzo Pitti, www.operadifirenze.it.

MILAN DON GIOVANNI BY MOZART 6 May-6 June In the wake of two Italian operas Mozart returns to La Scala with Don Giovanni conducted by Paavo Jarvi making his debut at La Scala. This is the 2011-2012 production directed by Robert Carsons. American baritone Thomas Hampson sings the lead role, coming from a magnificent and sensitive interpretation of

Wanted in Rome | June 2017

The Teatro dell’ Opera di Roma summer seasons opens at the Baths of Caracalla on 13 July.

Germont in a contemporary (and controversial) staging by Willy Decker of La Traviata at the Metropolitan Opera. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org. LA BOHEME BY PUCCINI 17 June-14 July Franco Zeffirelli’s popular staging of this Puccini favourite returns to La Scala, with Sonya Yoncheva making her debut at Milan’s opera theatre, alternating with Aylin Perez. Evelino Pidò conducts La Scala orchestra and chorus. Yoncheva gave a recent memorable interpretation of Violetta in the Met’s contemporary staging of La Traviata this spring. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org. DIE ENTFÜHRUNG AUS DEM SERAIL By MOZART 17 June-1 July La Scala is re-staging Giorgio Strehler’s version of this Mozart opera to mark the 20th anniversary of death of the Italian director. It was first performed at the Salzburg Festival in 1965 where it was conducted by Zubin Mehta and then numerous times at La Scala from 1972 onwards. Mehta will be conducting this revival which will be broadcast on RAI 5 and in cinemas on 19 June. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

ROME IL VIAGGIO A REIMS BY ROSSINI 14-24 June This is an opportunity for three singers (Roberta Mantegna, Eleonora de la Peña and Valentina Varriale) from the Fabbrica young artists programme of Teatro dell’Opera di Roma to make their mark on this co-production with the National Opera Amsterdam. Stefano Montanari conducts and the director is Damiano Michieletto who was booed and heckled for his direction of Rossini’s Guillaume Tell at Covent Garden

in 2015, although he was subsequently invited back. His Viaggio a Reims by Rossini got good critics when it was first produced in Amsterdam the same year. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 7, www.operaroma.it. TEATRO DELL’OPERA SUMMER SEASON BATHS OF CARACALLA 13 July-9 Aug There are three operas in the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma summer season at the Baths of Caracalla for a total of 23 evenings, seven more than last year. Bizet’s Carmen (28 June-4 Aug) is this year’s new production conducted by Jesús López-Cobos and Jordi Bernacer with the up-and coming Argentinian director Valentina Carrasco. Carmen is a new venture for Carrasco, who collaborates with the La Fura dels Baus in Barcelona. It is followed by Puccini’s Tosca (8 July-8 Aug) in the well-tried Pier Luigi Pizzi production, conducted by Donato Renzetti. Verdi’s Nabucco, conducted by Roberto Rizzi Brignoli and directed by Federico Grazzini runs from 25 July-9 Aug. The summer season also includes a series of concerts, starting with Ludovico Einaudi playing music from his album Elements on 13-14 June. Franco Battiato, singer-songwriter, composer and film maker, performs with the Royal Philharmonic Orchestra on 26 June. Terme di Caracalla, Viale delle Terme di Caracalla. DIVO NERONE OPERA ROCK 1 June-10 Sept This could be one of the summer’s most intriguing events. The subject is the emperor Nero and the action takes place on the site of what was once the dining hall of his infamous Domus Aurea. A gigantic stage has been erected on the spot on the side of the the Palatine in what was the Barberini family vineyard in the 17th and 18th centuries. The plot gives a different take on the emperor, who is known to the world as the man who instigated the fire of Rome in 64 AD. Here he is portrayed a young man with a passion for

ROME’S COMEDY CLUB 30 June The final installment of this monthly evening of hilarity before Rome’s English-language comedians take a well-deserved summer break. The June line-up features club-founder Marsha De Salvatore as MC along with regulars Amy Doherty, Jose Salgado and Mark Anthony Hannon. Doors open at 20.30, show begins at 21.30, and guests should reserve in advance, tel. 347 / 6753522 or email teatrodouze@gmail.com. Teatro Douze, Via del Cipresso 12, Trastevere.

academies AMERICAN ACADEMY IN ROME 18 May-2 July Charles Ray: Mountain Lion Attacking a Dog. At the invitation of the American

Divo Nerone is staged on the Palatine Hill.

art who is manipulated by his mother, Agrippina, and ambitious politicians. The production is the work of Nero Divine Ventures. The entrance is from the Arch of Titus side of the Forum. For more details see www.divonerone.com/en.

THEATRE AFRICABAR 22-24 June “30 actors: survivors of the desert, the sea and the theatre.” Marking World Refugee Day, this production highlights forced immigration and involves refugees belonging to Teatro in Fuga, the Rome-based cultural association which for three decades has provided asylum seekers with access to theatre projects. The final installment in director Riccardo Vannuccini’s Trilogia del Deserto which sees migrants gather before making their perilous journey into the unknown. The stage is set variously in Palestine, Libya, Jordan, Iran; the text includes excerpts of Shakespeare, the soundtrack features music by The Pogues. The refugees, in their new role as actors, conjure up scenes blending tradition, religion and race, requiring a leap of the imagination from the audience. Vannuccini describes it as a disorderly show, without message or central theme, transforming fiction into reality. In Italian. 21.00. Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, www.teatrodiroma.net.

Academy, leading US sculptor Charles Ray has created a new work exploring the theme of “American Classics.” Ray revisits the Hellenistic sculptural group Lion Attacking a Horse from the Capitoline Museums, transposing it to a Californian wilderness, home to a dwindling population of Mountain lions whose existence is under increasing threat from urbanisation. 21 June Celebrated musician, composer and artist Jason Moran discusses his ongoing research into the spaces inhabited by jazz performance and the residue it leaves behind. In his recent exhibition STAGED, including works shown at the Venice Biennale in 2015, Moran recreated architectural elements associated with long-gone jazz venues in New York from the 1940s and 1950s. The lecture will be held in English. American Academy in Rome, Via Angelo Masina 5, tel. 0658461, www.aarome.org.

OPERA NOTES

To mark the 450th anniversary of the birth of Claudio Monteverdi, La Fenice in Venice – the city where the composer is buried in S. Maria dei Frari – is staging his three operas that have come down to us: Orfeo, Il Ritorno di Ulisse in Patria and L’Incoronazione di Poppea. They are conducted by John Eliot Gardiner with the Monteverdi choir and the English Baroque Soloists on 16-18 June and again on 19 and 21 June. In questo 2017 ricorrono i 450 anni della nascita di Claudio Monteverdi (Cremona 9 maggio 1567) e il Gran Teatro La Fenice di Venezia, la città che vanta la custodia delle spoglie del compositore nella Basilica di Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari, lo ricorda allestendo le uniche opere della sua produzione a noi pervenute: L’Orfeo (1607), Il ritorno di Ulisse in patria (1640) e L’incoronazione di Poppea composta nel 1643, l’anno della morte di Monteverdi. Gli spettacoli si svolgeranno nell’ordine indicato dal 16 al 18 giugno 2017 con replica dal 19 al 21 giugno. Sul podio Sir John Eliot Gardiner, famoso per le interpretazioni della musica barocca con strumenti d’epoca; si esibisce con The Monteverdi Choir ed English Baroque Soloists da lui fondati. Per l’occasione svolgerà anche il ruolo di regista insieme a Elsa Rooke. L’Orfeo è detto una favola in musica, Il ritorno di Ulisse in patria una tragedia di lieto fine e L’incoronazione di Poppea un dramma per musica e sono i primi esempi della storia di teatro d’opera. Sono caratterizzati dal “recitar-cantando”. Una recitazione affidata non già alla parola detta ma cantata, che nel caso di Monteverdi è assai varia ed espressiva, che si mostra ben aderente al testo e altrettanto rispondente alle psicologie dei personaggi e che è infine capace di esaltare la poetica degli affetti che, insieme a quella della meraviglia, erano alla base dell’estetica barocca: origine e alimento del teatro d’opera nascente. Paolo Di Nicola

Tomb of composer Claudio Monteverdi at S. Maria dei Frari in Venice. June 2017 | Wanted in Rome

a collection of works that span Armleder’s long career which includes participation in the Fluxus movement, in addition to some site-specific creations. Istituto Svizzero di Roma, Villa Maraini, Via Ludovisi 48, tel. 06420421, www.istitutosvizzero.it.

children

Sitting by Claire Tabournet at the French Academy - Villa Medici.

BRAZILIAN EMBASSY 19 May-16 June The Brazilian embassy to Italy in Piazza Navona hosts Parque Lage, the first solo exhibition in Rome by Lucio Salvatore, an Italian artist based in Rio de Janeiro where he has held several major shows in recent years. The exhibition features 25 paintings, installations and different applications on canvas. Admission is free, for details see Brazilian embassy website, www.roma.itamaraty.gov.br. Embassy of Brazil, Palazzo Pamphilj, Piazza Navona 14, tel. 06683981.

host 13 works by Yoko Ono, exploring the multidisciplinary artist’s production during 1960-1970, and numerous canvases by French artist Claire Tabournet. 8-9 June Villa Aperta returns with the seventh edition of Villa Aperta, the electro pop rock festival in its gardens, featuring international acts such as The Avener, Ofenbach, Nico Vascellari with Ninos Du Brasil, Golden Bug & Desilence. For details see website. Villa Medici, Viale Trinità dei Monti 1, tel. 066761305, www.villamedici.it.

BRITISH SCHOOL AT ROME 12 June An infinity of curious things: unpacking collections from Eastern Africa in Italian museums. From the Medici to Mussolini, African objects have been acquired by Italian museums which hold important, but often overlooked, collections of African art and material culture. Zoe Cormack (African Studies Centre, Oxford University) examines the history of African objects in Italian museums, and asks what these artefacts can tell us about Italian and African history. 18.00-19.30. 15 June June Mostra brings together new work from the current BSR resident artists and includes painting, sculpture and installations. The exhibiting artists are Christopher Browne, Gary Deirmendjian, Peter McDonald, Catherine Parsonage, Kate Power, Sinta Tantra, and Vivien Zhang. Opening 15 June, 18.30-21.00. British School at Rome, Via Antonio Gramsci 61, tel. 063264939, www.bsr.ac.uk.

JAPANESE CULTURAL INSTITUTE 4 May-12 Oct The Japanese Cultural Institute, in collaboration with its neighbour the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna, presents Boom Beat Bubble, an exhibition of Japanese prints from the 1960s, 1970s and 1980s. There are 54 works by 24 artists in the exhibition whose title refers to the economic “Boom” of the 1960s, followed by the “Beat” era which gained momentum later that decade, and Japan’s speculative economic “Bubble” of the 1980s.

FRENCH ACADEMY 4 May-2 July The French Academy – Villa Medici presents One Day I Broke A Mirror, an exhibition by Yoko Ono and Claire Tabournet, as part of the academy’s Giovedì della Villa programme involving personalities from the world of art and culture each Thursday. The academy and its grounds

Wanted in Rome | June 2017

KEATS SHELLEY-HOUSE 15-16 June Acclaimed English actor Julian Sands gives two performances of his monologue A Celebration of Harold Pinter at the KeatsShelley House on 15 and 16 June. The performance sees Sands assuming the voice of his mentor, giving the public a chance to explore a more private side of the Nobelwinning playwright. Both performances start at 19.00. Advance booking required, for details visit website. Keats-Shelley House, Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www.keats-shelley-house.org. SWISS INSTITUTE OF ROME 16 March-1 July The Swiss Institute of Rome presents Stockage, a solo exhibition by leading Swiss artist John M. Armleder, at the institute’s Villa Maraini building. The exhibition comprises

BIOPARCO 16 March-30 June The Bioparco holds a fun exhibition entitled La cacca: storia naturale dell’innominabile (Poop: nature’s unspeakable story) which examines the vital role of “cacca” in the world’s eco-system. In Italian and English. The Bioparco’s summer programme of educational and fun events for children aged between four and 12 is open from 12 June-8 Sept, MonFri 08.30-16.30, for details see website. Bioparco, Piazzale del Giardino Zoologico 1 (Villa Borghese), tel. 063608211, www. bioparco.it.

SPORT ROME HALF MARATHON 17 June The inaugural Rome Half Marathon is a new entry on the capital’s running circuit and is scheduled to take place at 21.00 on Saturday 17 June. The 21-km race is organised by Maratona di Roma and will be held concurrently with the 11th edition of the CorriRoma, a 10-km competitive race beginning and ending in Piazza del Popolo. The Mezza Maratona di Roma starts in Piazzale Flaminio, passing by numerous archaeological sites in the centre such as the Colosseum before finishing up in Piazza del Popolo. The maximum time given to complete the course is three hours and 15 minutes, and runners must be aged over 18. Registration is open until 9 June, for full details including entry fees see website, www.mezzamaratonadiroma.it.

A new half marathon takes place in Rome on the evening of 17 June.

THIS PAGE IS OPEN TO YOUNG WRITERS AND ARTISTS

WANTED IN ROME Junior

CAVOUR METRO Dalia Impiglia, Year 12, takes a vivid walk to the Colosseum

he metro is sticky, alive; it is damp and I do not know why since the air outside is cool but the handle feels like it is sweating into my palm. The boombox voice fills the damp air in the carriage and announces ‘Siamo in arrivo a Cavour. Uscita lato sinistra’. The metro has a woman’s voice. I have arrived at my stop, Thank you, I reply to her in my head as the doors slide open heavily. I then walk. Step. Off. Step. The train leaves back into the tunnel, leaves me behind to continue to drop off all the idle passengers left. The cobblestones surprise me each time. My broken sneaker is barely any protection from the ground and the wind slaps my face in quick wisps of freshness. I breathe it in. The lights are yellow gold, glistening everywhere; seemingly like stars but in the day time. Artisanal craftsmen in stylish jeans and musicians wander with their big or small instruments strewn across their backs, in oversized clothes from vintage stores found in abundance here with 70s, 80s and 90s relics. I like to imagine how many people have worn the dresses and trousers found on the hangers in the dark scented shops. How many people ripped off this shirt in lust, who had a dinner in this dress or who dirtied these trousers in a public restroom at

Wanted in Rome | June 2017

a carnival? Where did the rips come from, where did the seams go? Each thread contains a story; a story upon a story, and they are intertwined as is whoever wears it next - not a piece of clothing but a messenger of time. The buildings shift between a palette of pearl and pastries, windows framed by marble curves – like a woman’s if she were a statue; like my mother’s when she was young. Some windows hold their arms open to the sun yet some still stay closed, since it rained before. The ground sparkles with its remains, the vanishing raindrops dissolve like a magic trick ahead of me, under my step. There are still some puddles which seem crystal blue as the sky is reflected in them. Ripples form and I realise at the corner a golden cat is bent over, taking a sip. His muscles are tense, he is scared of me. His tongue is pink, like a petal, and flickers quickly into the puddle and out. His fur shines amber and camouflages with the walls of the church behind. The cat scampers, nails scratching the ground and it disappears. The church is without company now. I pass by here so often and yet I still do not know the name of it; it is simply the church to me. It has short marble steps leading up to the entrance: a large, plain wooden door. The wood is dark and worn, a deep colour like that of the night. The walls are stained from the rain and peach coloured –

but dark peach coloured; once soft and now rough. The marble, too, was once soft and now is a dark white, framing the arches and the doorway. I have never been inside. I am curious but in part I do not want to ruin the surprise. It will remain a decisive mystery for as long as I can retain it so. I walk ahead, past the church, empty handed. I have even forgotten my purse. That is okay, sometimes it is refreshing to let your fingers loose,

WANTED IN ROME JUNIOR For young writers and artists Wanted in Rome is accepting creative contributions from students in all international schools in Rome. Articles on topics related to either the student’s life in Rome or their school projects can be submitted by their class teachers. The work should be no more than 1,000 words and all contributions should contain the name, age and school of the student. We also accept illustrations. Any class teachers who would like to propose a project please contact editorial@wantedinrome.com.

without having them worry about holding on to anything but the air. I have my green cameo jacket on – it was my father’s. It feels heavy on me and it is clearly too big for my frame, but it sits like a hug. I imagine where this jacket has been before me, like all other clothes around. Perhaps he did not even buy it himself, perhaps it was a gift, and I wonder what the person who picked it out for him was like. Perhaps it was his brother.

ST GEORGE’S ART DEPARTMENT

Clouds are sprinkled lace all over, randomly set in positions, scattered with the finesse of a master painter. This world sometimes seems too beautiful to be real. This is one of those days and I am standing here, in the middle of the beautiful world. I turn west and in the distance I see the Colosseum. What a sweet gift. I often try to imagine how many people must travel from Japan or Egypt or America and France just to see this. Then here I am, mindlessly passing a monument, an epitome of imperial greatness, allure and power every day. Men and tigers fighting, blood and guts to spill in front of hungry eyes, shrill screams chanting for the tiger to feast or cheering for the man, possibly from an even further land. When I was younger my father told me that if I was very, very, very quiet I could hear the chants that were soaked into the stone walls. I always tried my hardest to catch a glimpse of a cry or a shatter of a cheer but I never managed. I am aware now that he only wanted me to be quiet, but perhaps he, as a boy, was curious to hear something too.

Colosseum by Ruihong Jaing, aged 16.

Who knows how many centuries people have walked on these stones, climbed these steps wearing garments – probably not from the vintage clothes shops, but from other older traditions; time upon time marked on stones, in wool and cotton and steps and paces. I see the memories of 30 years ago on the prints of jeans and jackets; and in the stone of the walls which hold up the buildings before me and in the marble, I see the memories of 300 years ago, 3,000 years ago. People have come and gone, stood still and stopped, sat down and stood up again all around me for centuries on end – and now it is my turn. St George’s British International School, Via Cassia km 16, tel. 063086001, www.stgeorge.school.it.

Via Margutta by Ellis Schilling, aged 15.

June 2017 | Wanted in Rome

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COLUMNs Accommodation vacant in town APARTMENT TO RENT. Area Nuovo Salario. Quiet and green with concierge, semi furnished 60 sqm flat with terrace, tel. 327 / 7619947. AVENTINO / FAO / CIRCO MASSIMO / HISTORIC CENTRE. Aventino / FAO / Circo Massimo / Historic centre. Studio on ground floor, garden setting. One room with kitchen corner, bathroom, storeroom, fully furnished, equipped, security doors, grated windows, WiFi,

Free Classified Advertisements All classified advertisements in the free categories must be submitted via our website at www.wantedinrome.com. Space permitting free classified advertisements placed on our website will be downloaded and published in the magazine, but only if they include contact details. Jobs Wanted classifieds will no longer be accepted in our office but must be placed directly on our website www.wantedinrome.com

Sat Tv, washer/dryer. Classe Energ. G. €850 plus utilities tel. 335 / 7016049, roakay@yahoo.it.

1930s condo+garden. NearFAO, 12mins walk from Colosseum. €1.500 month. Other pics available.

BRIGHT 2-BEDROOM FLAT IN VILLAGGIO OLIMPICO/FLAMINIO. Villaggio Olimpico (Flaminio) 60sqm, 2-bedroom flat, 4th floor, elevator, wooden floor throughout, jacuzzi, very bright. Quiet, leafy area. Great location - 15min from Piazza del Popolo by tram. Lots of parking space. €950/ month. dave_autumn@hotmail.com.

COSY APARTMENT PIAZZA EPIRO S. GIOVANNI FROM 10 MAY 2017. Beautiful, cosy, quiet, elegant, fully furnished & equipped renovated, living room, two sunny bedrooms, kitchen, bathroom. 1930s condo+garden. Near FAO, 12 mins walk from Colosseum. €1.500 month. Other pics available. airleas.rome@gmail.com.

COSY APARTMENT PIAZZA EPIRO S. GIOVANNI AVAILABLE NOW. Beautiful, cosy, quiet, elegant, fully furnished & equipped, renovated, living room, two sunny bedrooms, kitchen, bathroom. 1930s condo+garden. Near FAO, 12 mins walk from Colosseum. €1.500 month. Other pics available. Contact airleas.rome@ gmail.com.

GARDEN FLAT MONTEVERDE NUOVO. Twin bedroom, living room, bathroom, kitchen, 30 sqm terrace €950. NO FEES, tel. 347 / 3608854, pics at https://www.airbnb.it/rooms/46498 romesweethome1@gmail.com.

COSY APARTMENT PIAZZA EPIRO - S. GIOVANNI FROM 10 MAY 2017. Beautiful ,cosy,quiet,eleg ant,fully furnish ed&equipped,r enovated,living room,two sunny bedrooms, kitchen, bathroom.

GIANICOLO ROOM. Available 2 nice quiet rooms (one big and one medium) in a period building. The apartment is inside a green private park, 10 min by foot to Trastevere, 2 min by foot to Gianicolo view. The apartment is still occupied by 1 other girl so she would prefer another girl. Well connected (Quattro Venti station) and obviously wi-fi, electricity and gas are included. €520 medium room, €560 big one, per month. giulio_piccinini@hotmail.com. Tel. 348 / 7740536. LUXURY VILLA WITH POOLS IN OLGIATA. 450sqm villa in prestigious compound near St. George’s British School, with 1200-sqm beautiful grown garden with two magnificent ancient olive trees, big swimming-pool and a spa with spinal waterfall, wide BBQ and dining area and stone oven for pizza by the big portico. Inside, parquet flooring, security alarm system and air conditioning in every room, on three levels. 4 bedrooms, one is on two levels, all with en-suite bathrooms, two with jacuzzi. 6 bathrooms in total. Eat-in fully furnished kitchen, large dining room and lounge,

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June 2017 | Wanted in Rome

very airy and bright. Maid two rooms apartment with separate access to the house in the basement, laundry-ironing room, massive study which can be turned into gym, huge luminous double room with space for billiard table and a kitchen or tv area. Plenty of storage space. Spacious garage. Available from September 2017. Contact enrica.arpino@yahoo.com. VIA MERULANA - S. MARIA MAGGIORE. One single room to rent for 1 person. Shared bathroom, kitchen and washing machine. Tel. 338 / 7911289, 335 / 6803908. romachm@gmail.com. VILLA BONELLI. Villa Bonelli €750. Elegant, independent, completely surrounded with greenery, living room and kitchenette, bedroom, bathroom, cupboard, all furnished, central heating, electricity and condominium included. Close to bus and train to the centre (15 min) and the airport (15 min). For information marilu_vitali@yahoo.it or call Silvia at tel. 389 / 2016622.

Accommodation vacant out of town TIVOLI - MANDELA. 19th century tower, completely restored 90 sqm furnished / unfurnished apartment with entrance, 2 bedrooms, living room, bathroom, kitchen, €350 + €40 condominium. Tel. 066786400. fedel@email.it.50 km from Rome, two apartments in old castle, completely restored, living room, 2 bedrooms. Unfurnished. €310 + 40 condominium.Other: 3 bedrooms, living room, dining room, 2 fireplaces, 2 bathrooms, balcony, terrace. €450 + 40 condominium. Tel. 066786400. fedel@email.it.

ENGLISH BUSINESS TRAINER. The Language Grid seeks motivated EMT trainers to work in a business environment. Offering part-time and full-time positions on long term contracts with paid holiday, bonuses & benefits. Opportunity for career development. Apply via email: info@ thelanguagegrid. com with CV, photo & cover letter. info@ thelanguagegrid. com. ESTABLISHED ENGLISH SCHOOL SEEKING Established English School seeking qualified English mothertongue teachers for children aged 3-12. Must have valid working documents. Please send your CV to sarah. leiwant@gmail.com. ESTABLISHED ENGLISH SCHOOL SEEKING. Established English School seeking qualified English mothertongue teachers for young children and adult courses for immediate start. Must have valid working documents. Please send your CV to job@angloamerican.it.

ASSOCIATE PRODUCER WANTED (TEMPORARY). Mother tongue English speaking Associate Producer wanted for a production company in Rome starting 12 June for 4 weeks. Contact brandobqp@gmail.com.

FULL-TIME SECRETARY/RECEPTIONIST. Full-Time Secretary/Receptionist needed for language school in Rome’s center. Candidates must be able to communicate well in both English and Italian, possess good interpersonal skills and exhibit team spirit. Office experience preferred. Valid working papers req’d. Send cover letter and CV to job@angloamerican.it.

HALF-TIME ADMIN SUPPORT FOR A NEW START-UP CONCEPT. Fluent English and Italian is essential. You must live in Rome. The concept is related to exporting high-end Italian products globally to a current database of 50,000 clients. Market, product and supplier research will be necessary. It is not a high-pressure role but more of an administrative and research role with

Jobs vacant

Wanted in Rome | June 2017

clear direction from directors. Contact annalisa@uhs-group.com. HOSTESS FOR TEA ROOMS AND RESTAURANT. Hostess for refined tea room in the center of rome, full time day job. Excellent spoken English and Italian necessary. Contact rina@babingtons.com. HOTEL RECEPTIONIST. Small hotel in Rome city centre is looking to fill part-time receptionist position. Candidates must have excellent English and Italian, written and conversational. Other languages a plus. Experience with hospitality and/or the tourism industry is preferred, but is not essential. Contact hotelworkrome@gmail.com. PART-TIME AND FULL-TIME ENGLISH TEACHER. Adacher Kinderheim is seeking experienced English mother-tongue or bilingual teachers for positions in nursery and kindergarten, full-time and part-time (working days Monday to Friday), starting from September. Please send your CV to liliana_vialesaffi26@ libero.it. POSITIONS VACANT. TEACHERS FOR YEAR 1(KG) AND YEAR 3. Kendale Primary International School seeks English mother tongue teachers for Year 1 (Kg) and Year 3 (2nd Grade) beginning Sep-

tember 2017. Requirements: minimum of 2 years full-time classroom experience and the ability to teach across the curriculum; E.U. documentation; teaching certificate/university degree; written references. Contact info@kendale.it. RELOCATION LOCAL COUNSELOR. Principal Relocation Company seeks freelance local counselors to accompany corporate clients to public offices, view properties, etc. in Rome. Own transport is necessary. CV to careers@ principalrelocation.com ref: LC-RM. STARTUP LOOKING FOR INTERNS FOR GLOBAL PLATFORM FOR WRITERS. Digital startup building an innovative global platform for writers is looking for two native-English-speaking social media-savvy interns with an interest in books and literature. Excellent writing and editing skills are required. The ability to work independently with minimal supervision is desired. These are not paid positions as yet but a flat-rate monthly reimbursement of expenses will be provided. Contact info@voxofwriters.com. TEACHER FOR ENGLISH SUMMERCAMP. English teacher required for the role of assistant of music lab for prestigious English Summercamp at La Tenuta dei Ciclamini: www.iciclamini.it. Dates: 25 June-8 July. Food and accommodation provided. Animation skills would be an asset. For further details phone 338 / 4861938 or mail at info@sapereinsieme.it. Musical skills required. THE AMERICAN UNIVERSITY OF ROME IS SEEKING. The American University of Rome’s Business Administration program is now accepting CVs from potential Adjunct Professor candidates for the “Writing for Business” course starting in Fall 2017. This core course is a writing-intensive course designed to help students develop and hone the writing and research skills required in the writing of their thesis the following year. Adjunct faculty are expected to teach to the designated syllabus, provide support and guidance to students and develop strategies to teach the course for the entire semester, using the course syllabus, objectives, and curriculum. Qualifications: PhD in relevant field, and/ or experience teaching at University level. Please send cover letter and CV to humanresources@aur.edu quoting ref: HR8/2017 Writing for Business. Interviews will start immediately and continue until the post is filled. Italian working papers essential.

TOTAL EXPAT COACHING. The ultimate coaching program for finding work and building a career in Italy. For info expat@ damienofarrell.com or call (+39) 339 / 3332547. TOUR OPERATOR. Tour agency looking for English and Spanish speakers as tour promoters in centre of Rome. Email CV to: italyinlovetours@yahoo.com. TOUR PROMOTER. Tour Operator seeks highly motivated individuals, energetic and able to work independently as well as in a team. We are looking for promoters to sell Colosseum tours. We require fluency in one or more of the following languages: English, German, Spanish, Russian and Chinese. Potential for great money. You’ll be working in an international environment and in a friendly atmosphere. Basic sales training provided. Contact walczakmagda@gmail.com. WRITER/PRODUCT ASSISTANT. Well established travel agency based in Rome is seeking an English mother tongue person with excellent writing and communication skills and fluent in Italian to help with a 2-month marketing project. Office based in Piazza Bologna district. Please email CV and cover letter to info@italysbestrome.com.

lessons ITALIAN FOR FOREIGNERS SINGLE OR GROUP LESSONS. Experienced teacher offers Italian lessons for foreigners, Single or Group lessons. Easy and fast method also for illiterate. Books provided. Contact adegia2007@yahoo.it.

Personal TOUR PROMOTER. Tour Operator is looking for motivated individuals, able to work in a team. We are looking for promoters for Colosseum and Vatican tours. We require fluency in English and Spanish. You’ll be working in a friendly and dynamic atmosphere. Basic sales training provided. Potential for great money. Contact mortisia1974@hotmail.it.

poetry 4 DECEMBER 2016. One day I will know if I had said Yes or Not to the constitutional reform instead of our sons. sernicolimarco@gmail.com.

A LETTER TO A LOVER. The sun, that warms your body, the water that wets your head, the earth that steadies your feet, the dark that hides your face, the light that shines in your eyes. I love you. sernicolimarco@gmail.com. EVERYBODY WANTS TO RULE THE WORLD. The exit of Britain is like the exit out of a door, the difference is which does not close. Slam in someone’s face. sernicolimarco@gmail.com. GIORNATA MONDIALE DELLA POESIA. Giornata mondiale della poesia. “Ei fu. Siccome wanted.” sernicolimarco@gmail. com. HOTEL TRAGEDY. Damned snowslide which run over Rigopiano. Macché piano. sernicolimarco@gmail.com. IMMIGRANTS WHERE? Europe government blamed each other. sernicolimarco@gmail.com. LAURA. And Laura said “I lived to die“. Cosa abbia detto mai. sernicolimarco@ gmail.com. M5S FOR PRESIDENT. Lasci stare Mayor, è mejo. sernicolimarco@gmail.com. MANCHESTER ARENA, MAY 2017. Aritanghete. sernicolimarco@gmail.com. SOLITUDE. I’m lost in my thoughts, out of the window they play ball, smoke cigarettes, listen to music from the radio. I’m lost in my thoughts, out of the door my father plays ball, smokes cigarettes, listens to music from the radio. I’m lost in my thoughts, out of the garden my mother plays ball, smokes cigarettes, listens to music from the radio. I’m lost in my thoughts, out of what. sernicolimarco@gmail.com. SURVIVOR. I ran along the coasts of all the seas, but I failed to find the shell which made me hear the noise of the waves that didn’t carry you back to me. Maybe because I mistook beaches, maybe because I mistook isles, but I succeeded to dry my skin by the same sun brightening the ship of which I was the captain. sernicolimarco@gmail.com. THE MOTOR. The motor of your body is like the motor of a racing car. The difference is which does not switch off. Rev up. sernicolimarco@gmail.com. THE QUESTION OF IMMIGRANT. Pass the buck... sernicolimarco@gmail.com. TRUMP. What he does? Trump.. t! sernicolimarco@gmail.com. June 2017 | Wanted in Rome

WORLDS CONFLICTS. We are fed up of these atomic war threats. Ce fa male er core, er corea del nord. sernicolimarco@gmail.com. Property for sale in town APARTMENT 150FT FROM THE PANTHEON. Wonderfully central 540 sq ft (50 sqm) apartment 150ft from the Pantheon on pedestrian street, 2nd floor, living room with fire place, bedroom, kitchen, bathroom, large 270 sq ft (25 sqm) terrace, independent gas heating. No agencies please! €680,000. 3291589184. MINI APARTMENT FOR SALE. Lovely recently built Mini Apartment in a green area well connected to Metro Valle Aurelia. Living Room with kitchen, large bedroom, full bathroom, covered terrace and parking space. Contact lelspada@hotmail.co.uk. MINI APARTMENT FOR SALE ST PETER AREA. Completely renovated mini apartment in a quiet area close to the Vatican wall, Antica Aurelia side. Luminous ground floor with cute kitchen area, full bathroom, one large room and wardrobe ad hoc space. For visits tel. 335 / 8018871. PENTHOUSE FOR SALE, BARE OWNERSHIP. Penthouse for sale, bare ownership, via Nicola Fabrizi 1, Roma. Located on the Gianicolo, Trastevere quarter, in the historical centre of Rome. The apartment is 68 sq m, including 16 sq m of terrace overlooking the Gianicolo park and the church of San Pietro in Montorio. It has a panoramic view on the city and the Castelli Romani, and is situated in a distinct and prestigious environment, adjacent to the American Academy, the Embassy of Spain, the Spanish Academy, and Villa Sciarra. Trastevere is steps away, reachable through a private, gated external pathway that is part of the residential complex. The penthouse is on the fifth floor of a 1930s building, and is served by an elevator that reaches the fourth floor. It comprises a generous foyer, a large bedroom, bathroom, kitchenette and wide living room with a working fireplace and large beautiful terrace. The apartment is in excellent condition, well tended, very bright and comfortable. Autonomous heat and air conditioning. Asking price €420.000 for sale bare ownership. The bare owner is exempt from paying IMU and TASI taxes, while being responsible for ex-

tra maintenance costs. Contact: Maria Pia Parisi : tel. (+39) 338 / 3421628, pia.parisi@operissimo.com. No agencies.

Rooms and flat shares BEAUTIFUL, CLOSED- OFF, PRIVATE ROOM IN A RENOVATED APARTMENT. Beautiful, closed- off, private room in a renovated apartment close to Girabaldi’s statue and Gianicolo. A private bathroom with endless hot water. Use of fully equipped kitchen, and two balconies with views. Sunny with great energy. There are two terraces that receive sunlight all day. The room has black- out shutters for a good night’s sleep. It is a quiet neighborhood and well connected to public transportation. It is easy to reach from Fiumicino on a train that costs only €8. There are many supermarkets, bars, and cafes with friendly Italians who love to host travelers! For info please contactroberta.stellato@hotmail.it. Schools and colleges ESE SHORT COURSE MUSIC MANAGEMENT_INTAKE SEPT 2017. The Professional Programme in Music Management at the European School of Economics has been developed to meet the needs of students who wish to pursue a business and management career in the music industry. A series of lectures, seminars and workshops with both regular and visiting industry specialists equips candidates with essential knowledge and skills needed to excel within each stage of the music management process. The course covers such topics as contract law, intellectual copyright, artist management and the recording industry. Practical, theoretical and strategic exper-

tise will be provided within a challenging environment in order for students to succeed within this fast changing field. After successful completion of the programme, students will be prepared for employment opportunities as: artist manager, tour manager, booking agent, talent agent, entertainment attorney, business manager, music business consultant, record company executive, artist and repertoire representative, artist and repertoire administrator, music publisher, label manager, music supervisor, concert promoter, radio promoter, organization of music events, festivals, music awards, among many others. Internship Programme: Upon successful completion of the programme participants may opt to take a 3-months internship fitted to their profile and career objectives. An assessment with the ESE Placement Officer will determine their eligibility for a placement. Intake Dates: September 2017. Courses Duration: 3-month in class course + minimum 3-month internship (optional); 12 in-class hours per week (Monday-Friday). Language of Instruction: English. Please do not hesitate to contact our centre for further details: ese.roma@uniese.it, admission.rome@ uniese.it, tel. (+39) 0648906653, www. uniese.it, www.europeanschoolofeconomics.com.

June 2017 | Wanted in Rome

useful

numbers ASSOCIATIONS American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Association of Malaysians in Italy tel. 389 / 1162161, malaysiansinitaly@ gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, fax 065413971 Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490. www.pwarome.org Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 333 / 8466820 Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Women’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 347 / 9313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wnrome-homepage.blogspot.com

Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637, www.saintlouisdefrance.it La Librairie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.librairiefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V. E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484, Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza Navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books – English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com S. Susanna Lending Library Via XX Settembre 15, tel. 064827510 Opening times: Sun 10.00-12.30 Tues 10.00-13.00, Wed 15.00-18.00, Fri 13.00-16.00

The following cinemas show films in English or original language when available – see Wanted in Rome website for details. Casa del Cinema Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Villa Borghese, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it Cinema dei Piccoli Viale della Pineta 15, Villa Borghese, tel. 068553485 Cinema Doria Via Andrea Doria 52, tel. 0639721446. Farnese Persol Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 066864395 Fiamma Multisala Via Bissolati 47, tel. 06485526 Filmstudio Via degli Orti d’Alibert 1/c, tel. 334 / 1780632, www.filmstudioroma.com Greenwich Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Intrastevere Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Lux Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Multisala Barberini Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. 0686391361 Nuovo Olimpia Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. 066861068 Nuovo Sacher Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 Odeon Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361 emergency numbers

books

chiamaroma

The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified.

24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 Anglo American Bookshop Via della Vite 102, tel. 066795222

cinemas

• Ambulance tel. 118 • Carabinieri tel. 112 • Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 • Fire brigade tel. 115 • Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 • Police tel. 113 • Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355 June 2017 | Wanted in Rome

religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b, tel. 0636001881, Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 389 / 9691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 334 / 2934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroloni 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish) Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 333 / 2284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday service 10.30 Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei Santi Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Rome Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Sunday

Wanted in Rome | June 2017

service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Rome Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic), Via del Caravita 7, www. caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00 St Isidore’s College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic) Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 0642903787, Sunday service 10.00 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30,10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 St Susanna Church (Roman Catholic), Via XX Settembre 15, tel. 0642014554, Saturday service 18.00. Sunday service 09.00 and 10.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.info Archè (HIV+ children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/0658204580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it

Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 066861554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 338 / 1675680 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for the disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 0644234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri”, Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022 transport • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel. 06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609 – 065551 – 063570 – 068822 – 064157 – 066645 – 064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it