Wanted in Rome - July 2017 by Wanted in Rome

july 2017 â&#x201A;Ź 2,00

The english language magazine in Rome

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art and culture entertainment GALLERIES MUSEUMS NEWS Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 9, Numero 7

contents

titolo

no. 7 / July 2017 editorials

SAVING THE EARTHQUAKE ART Margaret Stenhouse. . . . . . . . . . . 2 ROME’S ECUMENICAL GARDEN Dana English. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 UNDERGROUND COMES INDOORS Andy Devane. . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

what’s on

EXHIBITIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 classical. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 POP, ROCK, JAZZ. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 DANCE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 festivals IN ROME . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 festivals AROUND italy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 OPERA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 OPERA notes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 THEATRE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Academies. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35

classified columns. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 MISCELLANY

MUSEUMS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 art galleries in rome . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 TOP 10 BEACHES NEAR ROME . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 useful numbers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47

Next publication and classified dates Next publication dates are 2 Aug and 6 Sept. Classified advertisements placed through our office, Via di Monserrato 49, should arrive not later than 13.00 on 23 July (for 2 Aug) and 27 Aug (for 6 Sept). However classifieds may be published around the clock on our website www.wantedinrome.com. They will appear in the next available paper edition of the magazine.

Mucchio di Fagiani by Lucamaleonte. On display at Cross the Streets exhibition at MACRO on Via Nizza until 1 Oct. See article page 10 for details.

Wanted in Rome office Via di Monserrato 49 - tel/fax 066867967 advertising@wantedinrome.com editorial@wantedinrome.com www.wantedinrome.com www.wantedinmilan.com

Direttore responsabile: Marco Venturini Editrice: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9 Progetto grafico e Impaginazione: Monia Lucchetti - Dali Studio Srl Stampa: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c. Diffusione: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425. Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131 del 6/3/1985. Finito di stampare il 03/07/2017

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35 July 2017 | Wanted in Rome

RESTORATION

Margaret Stenhouse

SAVING THE EARTHQUAKE ART Italy is working to salvage its cultural heritage after recent devastating earthquakes

he doors of the vast hanger adjoining the Italian state forestry corps barracks at Cittaducale in northern Lazio swing open to reveal rows of steel tube shelving, reaching from floor to ceiling. They contain, to date, 2,855 paintings, statues, antiquities, altar pieces, embroidered copes, chalices, bells, relics, ex-votos and other objects recovered from the churches and museums of Lazio that were devastated in the recent earthquakes. “We estimate that there are another 600 works of art still buried under rubble, in Lazio alone,” said prefect Fabio Carapezza Guttuso, head of the emergency task force operating in the earthquake zone. “In the four regions that have suffered damage, a total of 16,111 art works have been recovered so far, as well as thousands of antique books and archive material.” The contents of 92 Lazio churches and shrines are gathered in Cittaducale, inanimate patients passively awaiting treatment. “We classify them according to the extent of damage they have suffered. The set-up is a bit like a hospital. The difference is that the ’patients’ that arrive first need the least attention, because their salvage has been easy

Wanted in Rome | July 2017

A Madonna and child await restoration at Cittaducale in northern Lazio.

RESTORATION and they haven’t suffered much harm. The badly damaged frescoes and sculptures that were buried under stones and rubble arrive last and need the most care,” he went on. However, rather than a hospital, the storehouse seems more like a church with its high ceiling and long naves lined with shelves, where rows upon rows of plaster and wooden saints and Madonnas gaze out from their sheets of protective wrappings with sorrowful, painted eyes. Each item is scrupulously labelled with its description and place of provenance. “Every single piece is catalogued,” says Guttuso. “Years ago, in an emergency like this you would have many eager volunteers coming to help recover works of art, but noone bothered to note where they had come from, so it was often impossible to place them afterwards. Now we aim to return them to the sites where they belong. “A lot of the works are by local artists,” he continued. “Their value is not so much material or artistic, but in what they mean to their local community.” The restorers from the Italian ministry of culture involved in the operation all understand the profound sense of identity and belonging that these objects evoke in the inhabitants of villages and hamlets wiped out by the series of earth tremors that tore areas of central Italy apart between 24 August 2016 and the following January. Cristina Collatini, in charge of the storage operation, recounted how villagers, who had lost everything, begged rescue workers “not to take their treasures away to a museum, but to promise to return them once they had been repaired.” Italy’s recovery squad took the plea seriously. Ensuring that none of the articles saved actually left the territory was one of the reasons that influenced the choice of storage deposits, all located in close proximity to the earthquake

Cristina Collatini is in charge of storage operations at Cittaducale.

zone. The Cittaducale unit, in fact, is only one of the five collection points in the regions involved, with the others at Spoleto (for Umbria), Celano (for Abruzzo) and two at Ancona and Ascoli Piceno (Marche). The extent of the devastation, coupled with the difficulties inherent in the mountainous terrain of north-east Lazio, populated with numerous scattered little communities, posed enormous problems. In addition to towns like Amatrice and Norcia, many villages and hamlets were almost totally wiped out. Considered to be the worst earthquake since Messina in 1908, which claimed some 250,000 victims, life loss this time was mercifully small. Of the total 299 victims, 237 were from Ama-

trice alone and this comparatively high number was due to ill luck. The resident population was swelled with visitors for the annual festa. Priority was given, of course, to saving lives. But as soon as possible Italy’s special Caschi Blu per la Cultura (Blue Helmets for Culture) corps was on the scene, salvaging as much as possible of the area’s cultural heritage from the ruins. Many of the feats they achieved verged on the miraculous. Last November, television viewers watched with bated breath as firemen winched the colossal Incoronation of the Virgin by Jacopo Siculo from the ruins of the church of St Francis in Norcia. The altar piece had remained attached to the one wall left standing when the buildJuly 2017 | Wanted in Rome

RESTORATION

The Cittaducale depot contains a horde of bells rescued from church towers.

ing crumbled. The entire operation took two days of preparation. “In an emergency, if a tower or a wall is hindering rescue operations, it gets knocked down. But this time we were able to coordinate with the army and the fire brigade to avoid unnecessary destruction,” commented Carapezza Guttuso. The Blue Helmets task force, which also operates under the aegis of UNESCO, is made up of a select group of carabinieri and experts from the Italian culture ministry including restorers, art historians, architects and archaeologists. Established in February 2016, the unit cut its teeth among the ravaged monuments of Palmyra in Syria, little realising how soon its special skills would be needed at home. The area to the right of the entrance at the Cittaducale depot is occupied by a collection of church bells of all sizes, many of them still attached to their headstock. “Even if a bell tower is still standing after an earthquake, it wouldn’t be able to support the weight of bells in its weakened condition. So we take them down till the towers can be rebuilt or

reinforced,” explained Collatini. “But we know that the ringing of bells has always been an important part of the life of the community, so this Easter we set up little bell towers made of steel tubes as temporary substitutes.” The opposite side of the depot is dominated by a large photographic reproduction of the Passatore icon altar piece from the sanctuary of St Mary of Grace, a 15th-century shrine on the ancient shepherds’ transhumance route near Amatrice. Restorer Federica Di Napoli Rampolla points out the areas where the frescoes have been damaged. Nearby, Silvia Borghini is sorting out a box of rubble collected at the foot of the altar, setting the painted fragments aside. Later, they will be reset in their former position, recomposing the original fresco as nearly as possible to how it was before. Borghini was one of the 80 restorers who pieced together the jigsaw pieces of the vault in the basilica of St Francis of Assisi, which collapsed in the 1997 earthquake. “Sometimes you have to work with the back of the fragments, rather than the front,” explained Federica Di Napoli Rampolla. “Often it’s easier to

fit the pieces together that way, because chips of colour often flake off. School children are very good at that. They have a quicker eye for shapes. Unfortunately, we can’t use them here.” Photographic archives help restorers’ task. Some 20 years ago, Italy’s heritage defence police, a special branch of the carabinieri, began documenting and cataloguing the country’s immense artistic patrimony in order to clamp down on art smuggling and illegal sales. This work continues, with the result that now over five million works of art from all parts of the country are listed and described in detail. Italy is the acknowledged world leader in the restoration field. Restorers follow the principles laid down by 20th-century art historian Cesare Brandi in his landmark treatise Teoria di Restauro, translated and studied all over the world. Brandi introduced the concept of using the combined skills of many experts, such as archaeologists, chemists, physicists, architects and manuscript and book pathologists. Expertise is not lacking; the problem will be funding. Approximate time required for rebuilding is set (optimistically) at ten years and the estimated costs are astronomical. The cash-strapped Italian government is at present bearing the brunt of construction work but a new EU proposal could mean that Brussels will meet 95 per cent of reconstruction costs – instead of the present 50 per cent – for natural disasters such as earthquakes and floods in some regions. However other sources of funding will also be needed to cover many restoration costs. Restorers hope that the Art Bonus concession, introduced by Italian minister of culture Dario Francheschini, which gives private sponsors a 65 per cent tax rebate, will incentivise donors interested in preserving a unique historic landscape and giving communities back their spiritual and artistic soul. July 2017 | Wanted in Rome

ECUMENISM

Dana English

ROME’S ECUMENICAL GARDEN

A hidden garden at the monastery of S. Gregorio al Celio is a tangible symbol of ecumenism in Rome

he ancient foundations of the Monastery of S. Gregorio al Celio have stood for over 1,500 years in the same place, at the foot of the Clivus Scauri, the Roman road that led to Porta Celimontana from the Circus Maximus and the imperial residences on the Palatine hill opposite. It was in this villa in this neighbourhood, having become the favoured

place of aristocratic residences geographically close to the seat of power, that Gregory was born into a wealthy patrician Roman family with close connections to the Church. His great great‑grandfather was Pope Felix III. His father, Gordianus, was a senator and prefect of the city of Rome. The highlyeducated Gregory also became prefect at the early age of 33.

The garden at the monastery of S. Gregorio al Celio is the result of five years of hard work and ecumenical collaboration.

Wanted in Rome | July 2017

On the death of his father, however, Gregory decided to convert his family’s villa into a monastery dedicated to St Andrew and embrace a life of contemplation as a monk. The times demanded his talents in the arenas of both church and state, however; Pope Pelagius II sent him as an ambassador to Constantinople for the next seven years. Although desiring only to return to the peace of his monastery, Gregory was not to enjoy the monastic quiet for long: he was named pope in 590 (on his part, reluctantly). In this troubled period in Rome’s history, the papacy emerged as the only possible source of authority to hold the disintegrating system of governance together. His capable administration saved the citizens of Rome from starvation on more than one occasion. A teacher and reformer rather than a theologian, Gregory is perhaps most famous for having sent Augustine and 40 monks to re-evangelise the British in the year 597, and extend the reach of the Gospel to the now-pagan north of Europe.

ECUMENISM

Garden designer Beth Blosser (left) and the Rev’d Dana English of All Saints’ Anglican Church by the dedication plaque.

It is at this historic site of connection between Rome and England that the Archbishop of Canterbury celebrates vespers with the Pope when he visits. On 5 October last year, Justin Welby and Francis commissioned and sent 40 pairs of Roman Catholic and Anglican bishops to engage in mission together all over the world to mark the 50th anniversary of the ecumenical work of the Anglican Centre in Rome. The most visible, tangible sign of ecumenism in Rome, however, is a hidden garden on the same site, the monastery of S. Gregorio al Celio. Although the Camaldolese branch of the Benedictine order has occupied this site for over a millennium, the dwindling number of monks in recent decades had reduced the monastery’s once-flourishing garden to an abandoned patch of dirt, weeds and unpruned fruit trees. Five years ago, in June 2012, an An-

glican priest and four Anglican ordinands held their pre-ordination retreat at S. Gregorio, and on their first evening there they placed their chairs in a circle on the edge of the garden. As the sun set, they shared their stories of what had brought them to that place. Each person looked out at the garden and expressed the same thought, that it was such a pity that it was so neglected and overgrown. The retreat ended; all were ordained; each went away on vacation; each began his or her new work. One of those who had been newly ordained, Verna Veritie, had just begun her ministry as a deacon in the place she was most needed, Athens, when she was killed in an accident there. I was one of the other ordinands from that evening in the garden and decided to try to restore it in her memory. As assistant curate and then assistant chaplain at All Saints’ Anglican

Church in Rome, I gathered members from the English-speaking churches in Rome – Swedish and German Lutheran, Methodist, Anglican, Presbyterian, Roman Catholic, members of the Franciscan order – to clear the space and begin to re-plant the site. Beth Blosser, a member of All Saints’ and a landscape gardener then employed in work on the secret gardens of Villa Borghese, drew up a beautiful design in keeping with the history of the ancient site. Despite obstacles of all sorts, most notably the infamous bureaucracy of Rome, we managed to raise over €20,000. We toured people through the developing garden during all its various stages. We bought plants and hired contractors for the work the volunteers could not do: to turn up the earth and sow the grass seed, relocate the lighting, install the watering system, create the crushed marble paths, prune the trees, install an iron pergola and install six travertine marble benches. And place the brass plaques on the benches and the wall of the church, commemorating 20 May 2017 as the day of blessing and dedication of the Ecumenical Garden in Rome. No garden is ever “finished”. The Ecumenical Garden still awaits smooth, flat, white stones to be laid in a spiral pattern as a labyrinth for meditation. A fountain will replace the antique Corinthian capital found on the site (with a solar panel to run the circulating water). Additional plants are needed to fill in the kitchen garden and the borders. Scaffolding is required to place grates over holes in the masonry of the church to keep out the pigeons, and install spikes to keep the roof edges clear. This wish list may require another €2,000 or €3,000. And especially during the second half of July and throughout August, volunteers will continue to be needed to combat the weeds and check for additional watering that might be necessary. (cont. page 9) July 2017 | Wanted in Rome

ECUMENISM

The ecumenical garden provides a place for prayer and reflection.

Only two of the original Camaldolese community were present at the dedication: Brother Innocenzo and Brother Bonifacio (who will be 90 in November). Six seminarians and monks from other places including India, China, and Brazil, with half a dozen other guests, make up the present resident community. The mother house of the Camaldoli in Umbria has also sent some of its monks to live at S. Gregorio. An additional community occupies the former chicken coop of the monastery: the Missionaries of Charity, Mother Teresa’s order. They preserve her cell as it was when she used to visit Rome; they are glad to show it to those who come (except on Thursdays). Twenty energetic and compassionate sisters care for 67 persons in another part of the complex, next to the garden, providing shelter, food and care to a group of men for whom the criteria are that they are over 55 and very ill. The sisters also operate a hostel near Termini for younger men who have just arrived in Rome: they give a shower, clothing, food and a bed to refugees from all parts of the world, for a maximum of three weeks. The sisters enjoy the garden as they cross it to transport deliveries of food that are unloaded in the lane behind the monastery.

those who have contributed to the garden through their time, labour or donations: all those who have contributed in some way will be able to use the garden for times of quiet and reflection and prayer. As the roses and grapevine climb ever higher to cover the pergola, as the ivy fans out and fills in to conceal the fence covering, as the plants that border the garden cluster and grow denser in their colour and variety, the garden will become an ever more welcoming place for those who seek a green place in the middle of the city, in the spirit of Gregory the Great’s monastery that began its life on that very place in the sixth century AD.

A group from a Bible study at FAO, across the street, meets in the garden To enquire about a visit to the garden, once a month to enjoy picnic lunches or to make a contribution to its ongoing on the green lawn amid the orange life, contact the Rev’d Dana English at trees. Members of nearby St Stephen’s dlenglish@aya.yale.edu. The garden’s School garden club help on Saturday website is ecumenicalgarden.blogspot.it. mornings, trimming and weeding throughout the year. The Notre Dame University programme and other college groups from the United States have corresponded to set up special work sessions in the garden as a form of service, complementing their academic programmes. A comprehensive plan for the use of the garden is being drawn up. It will include the celebration of wedding blessings there and retreats for small groups (overnight or weekend retreats could be accommodated; many of the 12 guest rooms overlook Sister Terèse Magdala of the Missionaries of Charity, whose the garden). A register community shares the monastery site, with Rev’d Dana English will list the names of at the garden inauguration on 20 May. July 2017 | Wanted in Rome

STREET ART

Stepping into Seth’s world at the Museo Abusivo Gestito dai Rom (M.A.G.R.). Vultus Est Index Animi.

Andy Devane

UNDERGROUND COMES INDOORS Rome’s urban art faces the perils of the street while MACRO ushers the counterculture movement inside

“O

tto!” hissed the wideeyed little girl, chasing after her labrador through a gap in the wire fence, as if she were trespassing in Boo Radley’s garden. “I told you a thousand times never to go in there,” she scolded, hauling the repentant hound back through the mangled fence, under an arch, past the bins and onto Via Antonio Avogadro. Inside the wildly-overgrown enclosure lay the ruins of the Mira Lanza soap factory, abandoned for 60 years, located on the Portuense side of the Ponte della Scienza pedestrian bridge directly opposite Ostiense’s landmark Gasometro. This hole in the fence marks the inauspicious entrance to a glorious art project whose official title is M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo Gestito dai Rom). Organised by non-profit cultural association 999Contemporary, the illicit

Wanted in Rome | July 2017

initiative involved French street artist Seth camping and working secretly in the compound over several months in the middle of 2016. He created a series of hugely colourful murals and installations around the crumbling interior of the city-owned factory site, part of which was restored 18 years ago to house Teatro India, an avant-garde umbrella project of the Teatro di Roma. M.A.G.R. came about after 999Contemporary director Stefano Antonelli approached Seth, offering him a residency at Teatro India within whose walls he was to incorporate his art. The Parisian artist raised the stakes, however, by proposing to work instead in the derelict section of the sprawling Mira Lanza site. Antonelli seized upon Seth’s plan of staging a civil disobedience to “devandalise and revandalise” a wasted public resource in a prime location, which

– despite numerous proposals – was abandoned by successive city administrations. This alleged disregard for urban regeneration spurred the project, which involved decorating walls and pillars with spray-paint and debris found around the garbage-strewn site. Ducking in under the fence, wading through the long grass, dodging broken glass and perhaps even a rat or a snake, one has a subversive sense of the “underground”, a feeling of breaking-and-entering to view Seth’s clandestine beauty. The website – which warns “No Toilets. No Giftshop. No high heels. Yes Gypsies” – contains a map with an arrow directing visitors to “Break the law here”. Many of the works have Latin titles, such as the hope-filled Lux in Tenebris (Light in Darkness), featuring a boy craning his Modigliani neck into spiralled loops of coloured halos. This

STREET ART particular mural was painted in an area used as a latrine by squatters until their eviction several years ago, after which the site was gutted by a fire. Preparing the space for Seth’s work involved shovelling out heaps of human excrement, a process Antonelli described as one “not usually associated with curating a contemporary art exhibition.” Other works include Lampedusa, a series of bricked-up windows crammed with refugees, and Macedonia, featuring found clothes pegged on barbed wire, a comment on the closed Macedonian border. Seth’s Bricksit mural of a withdrawn boy wearing a crown gives the nod to Britain’s ongoing Brexit negotiations, and featured on the May cover of Wanted in Rome. The remaining support pillars from the roofless factory are painted in rainbow colours, becoming Palmyre, an installation recalling the destruction by Islamic State of Syria’s 2,000-year-old Temple of Bel in Palmyra.

One year after its completion, Seth’s project is overgrown and fading – part of the desired effect, according to Antonelli. Today the openair museum is looked after by Tito, a member of the Roma community which now inhabits the far corner of the site. Under the honorary title of museum director, Tito is available to give tours on request.* Antonelli’s organisation was also involved in Big City Life, a successful street art project whose 18 enormous murals – including one by Seth – breathed new life into the council housing tower blocks in Tor Marancia, a long-neglected suburb near EUR, in 2015. Funds raised from tours of the Museo Condominiale di Tor Marancia are channelled back into improving life for the local community, such as repairing broken walls and upgrading gardens. Antonelli reveals that a similar street art scheme is in the pipeline for the disadvantaged east Rome suburb Tor Bella Monaca.

Cross the Streets, a multimedia exhibition whose 200 works celebrate “40 years of Street Art and Writing” is currently on show at the MACRO museum on Via Nizza. The show is curated by the founder of the international urban art publishing house Drago, Paulo Lucas von Vacano, who states: “The revolution occurs when the street enters the museum and the museum moves into the street.” An ebullient character in trademark floppy black hat and shades, von Vacano points out that Rome is one of the European cities with the longest record of street art, particularly its suburbs and subways. The exhibition is supported by the city, which recently announced an “historic agreement” between Rome’s public transport company ATAC and the social service office for minors, requiring young “so-called writers”, charged with vandalism by the juvenile court, to clean up defaced buses and train stations.

Rome street artists Diamond and Lucamaleonte at Cross the Streets exhibition at MACRO on Via Nizza.

July 2017 | Wanted in Rome

STREET ART The comprehensive show features the work of several senior figures in Italian street art, including Milanbased Ozmo, who is responsible for the Shelley portrait on the rail overpass in Rome’s Ostiense neighbourhood. When asked if bringing an underground movement indoors risked diluting its counterculture credentials, he replied: “I believe that any phenomenon, even underground, should be developed overground, within the official culture, allowing it to stabilise and grow.” Another important participant is Roman street artist Lucamaleonte, known for his graphic stencil creations, including the enormous site-specific pheasant motif, one of the exhibition highlights and cover of this edition. Lucamaleonte also took part in GRAArt, an ongoing street art project designed to cheer up the gloomy underpasses of the Grande Raccordo Anulare, with legends associated with the area around Rome’s ring road. The driving force behind the project is David “Diavù” Vecchiato, whose perspective-defying murals of pop icons adorn several public stairways around Rome. Diavù has painted a scene of the Greco-Roman mythological hero Aeneas, fresh from fleeing the flames of Troy, landing on the shores of the ancient port Lavinium. So far there are 10 murals located north, south, east and west of Rome, with plans for more, all of which can be found on a map on the project’s website.** Part of the MACRO show focuses on Rome’s long-lost murals by the late American artist Keith Haring, who participated in an unprecedented exhibition of New York graffiti at the capital’s Palazzo delle Esposizioni in 1984. As part of the show, Haring undertook one of his mischievous murals – a cartoon creature barking at running figures – on the Via Milano side of the museum. It remained there until the visit of USSR president Michail Gorbachev

Keith Haring’s long-lost mural at Palazzo delle Esposizioni. Photo Stefano Fontebasso De Martin.

in 1992 when then Rome mayor Franco Carraro had it removed. Another Haring work, painted on the transparent panels of the Flaminio-Lepanto metro bridge over the Tiber, was removed by the city in 2000, Jubilee Year, ten years after the artist’s death from AIDS. In 2016, more than three decades after Haring created his mural over the Tiber, another internationally-acclaimed artist undertook a work of epic proportions along the river’s banks. In a perverse twist of fate, ahead of its oneyear anniversary in April, William Kentridge’s Triumphs and Laments frieze was defaced with graffiti and restored by city authorities. Some four kilometres from the safe confines of MACRO, the hazards of the street art trade were further illustrated by two recent events affecting two Roman artists whose work shared the same street: Via Fanfulla da Lodi in the Pigneto district. Io so i nomi, a portrayal of a balaclava-clad Pasolini by Omino 71, was defaced with a less than elegant Roman expression, while a worse

fate awaited Alice Pasquini’s homage to Berengo Gardin’s celebrated image of lovers kissing on a bench. The wall-plaster hosting her mural was removed to make way for a marble-clad evangelical church, but thankfully not before the image was immortalised on a Wanted in Rome cover last September. All proof of the ephemeral and perilous world of street murals which, just like the fresco-embellished façades of Rome’s 16th-century palazzi, are destined to be absorbed by the city’s multiple layers of beauty.

STREET ART CONTACTS *999Contemporary www.999contemporary.com. Cross the Streets MACRO Via Nizza, until 1 Oct, www.museomacro.org. Drago www.dragolab.com. **GRAArt www.graart.it. July 2017 | Wanted in Rome

rome’s major

Museums vatican museums

For more details see www.museiincomuneroma.it and www.beniculturali.it.

Below is a list of the major museums and archaeological sites in Rome. Book tickets for many Rome museums and archaeological sites on tel. 060608 or online at www.060608.it. Book tickets for the Borghese Museum, Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia, Palazzo Barberini and Palazzo Corsini online at www.beniculturali.it.

Vatican Museums

Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, mv.vatican.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. MonSat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va. Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons. org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums. state museums Baths of Diocletian Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed. Borghese Museum Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria. borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian. Castel S. Angelo Museum Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo. com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. COLOSSEUM, ROMAN FORUM AND PALATINE Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

Wanted in Rome | July 2017

Crypta Balbi Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel. 0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian. Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed. Palazzo Corsini Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.galleriaborghese.it/corsini/en. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.3019.30. Tues closed.

Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, www.gnam.beniculturali.it. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale Via Merulana 248, tel. 0646974832, www.museorientale.it. Interesting national collection of oriental art with some special exhibitions from its own collection and special loans. Tues, Wed, and Fri. 09.00-14.00. Thurs, Sat, Sun. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian on Sun (11.00 and 17.00).

MAXXI Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum

Palazzo Altemps Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. An-

Castel S. Angelo

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Roman Forum

cient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed. Palazzo Barberini Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.galleriabarberini. beniculturali.it. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. Palazzo Massimo alle Terme Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.0019.45. Mon closed. VILLA FARNESINA Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays. city museums Centrale Montemartini Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, en.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance. Capitoline Museums Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, en.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun. Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The mu-

nicipal modern art collection. 10.0018.00. Mon closed. MACRO Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www. en.museomacro.org. The city’s collection of contemporary art, plus temporary exhibition space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed. Also MACRO Testaccio, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed. Museo Barracco Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.0019.00. Mon closed. Museo Canonica Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance). Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Museo Napoleonico Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.0019.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English. Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

private museums Casa di Goethe Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed. CHIOSTRO DEL BRAMANTE Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it. Doria Pamphilj Gallery Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00. Galleria Colonna Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance. GIORGIO DE CHIRICO HOUSE MUSEUM Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking. Keats-Shelley House Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking. July 2017 | Wanted in Rome

rome’s most active and contemporary

art galleries 1/9 Unosunove 1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com. A.A.M. Architettura Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ffmaam.it. Associazione Culturale Valentina Moncada Gallery holds exhibitions of international artists who are active in the international scene today. Via Margutta 54, tel. 063207956, www.valentinamoncada.com. Dorothy Circus Gallery Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com. Ex Elettrofonica This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica. com. Federica Schiavo Gallery Hosts large solo and group shows of well-known contemporary artists. Piazza di Montevecchio 16, tel. 0645432028, www.federicaschiavo.com. Fondazione Giuliani per l’Arte Contemporanea The Giuliani Foundation for Contemporary Art is a private non-profit foundation that produces three contemporary art exhibitions each year. Via Gustavo Bianchi 1, tel. 0657301091, www.fondazionegiuliani.org. Fondazione Pastifico Cerere This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pastificiocerere. com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

FONDAZIONE MEMMO Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www. fondazionememmo.it.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Fondazione Volume! The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume. com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Franz Paludetto Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com. Frutta This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via Giovanni Pascoli 21, tel. 06 68210988, www.fruttagallery.com. Gagosian Gallery The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel. 0642086498, www.gagosian.com. Galleria della Tartaruga

Galleria Marie-Laure Fleisch This contemporary art space is dedicated to exhibiting works on paper. Via di Pallacorda 15, tel. 0668891936, www.galleriamlf.com. Galleria della Tartaruga Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com. Galleria Il Segno Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italian and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com. GALLERIA MUCCIACCIA Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com. Giacomo Guidi Arte contemporanea This contemporary art gallery presents exhibitions from a diverse group of Italian and foreign artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Corso V. Emanuele II 282-284, tel. 0668801038, www.giacomoguidi.it. July 2017 | Wanted in Rome

titolo

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

GALLERIA VARSI A small but dynamic gallery near Campo de’ Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di S. Salvatore in Campo 51, tel. 0668309410, www.galleriavarsi.it.

Monitor

STUDIO SALES DI NORBERTO RUGGERI The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www. galleriasales.it.

Il Ponte Contemporanea Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via di Panico 5559, tel. 0668801351, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com. La Nuova Pesa Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it. MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com. Magazzino d’Arte Moderna Contemporary art galley that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com. Monitor This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, tel. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org. Monserrato Arte ‘900 This gallery in the Campo de’ Fiori area represents a range of contemporary Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 14, tel. 348/2833034. MONTORO12 Gallery promoting work by contemporary Italian and international artists. Via di Montoro 12, tel. 0668308500, www. m12gallery.com. Nomas Foundation Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.

Wanted in Rome | July 2017

tography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Operativa Arte Contemporanea A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com. PIAN DE’ GIULLARI Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 339 / 7254235, 366 / 3988603, www.piandegiullari2. blogspot.com. PLUS ARTE PULS Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 335 / 7010795, www.plusartepuls.com. RvB ARTS Rome-based gallery specialising in affordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www. rvbarts.com. Sala 1 This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www. salauno.com. s.t. foto libreria galleria Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art pho-

T293 The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it. The Gallery Apart This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it. TraleVolte This contemporary art gallery focuses on the relationship between art and architecture and hosts many solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org. Valentina Bonomo Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works specifically for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com. Wunderkammern This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www. wunderkammern.net. Z20 GALLERIA SARA ZANIN Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria offers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it.

where to go in rome

exhibitions FROM DUCHAMP TO CATTELAN 28 June-29 Oct For the second consecutive year the Palatine hill hosts an outdoor exhibition of contemporary art until the end of October. This convergence of ancient and contemporary unites 100 artists, from 25 countries, whose large-scale installations, paintings and photographs are exposed under two themes decided by curator Alberto Fiz: Portraits and Hands. The exhibition includes work by international artists such as Gilbert and George, Allan McCollum, Marina Abramovic, Barbara Kruger and Joseph Kosuth, alongside Italian big names Mario Schifano, Mauro Staccioli and Maurizio Cattelan. Forum Palatino, Via di S. Gregorio 30, www.electa.it/mostre/alt-arte-contemporanea-al-palatino. OSTKREUZ 24 June-17 Sept Retrospective telling the history of the photo agency Ostkreuz, founded in 1990 by photographers from East Germany in the immediate aftermath of reunification, and today the most celebrated photographic collective in Germany. There are more than 250 images by 22 photographers on display, dating from the fall of the Berlin Wall until the modern day. Museo di Roma in Trastevere, Piazza S. Egidio 1B, tel. 065816563, www.museodiromaintrastevere.it. GEHARD DEMETZ: INTROJECTION 23 June-10 Sept Italian artist Gehard Demetz is known for his skilfully-crafted wooden sculptures of morose adolescents and children. His mysterious works often have “missing” pieces, raising various interpretations such as lost innocence, predestination and memories buried in the child psyche. His latest works are inspired by sacred and profane themes, juxtaposing churches and religious icons alongside a juvenile Hitler and Mao. MACRO, Via Nizza 138, www. museomacro.org. YONA FRIEDMAN: MOBILE ARCHITECTURE, PEOPLE’S ARCHITECTURE 23 June-29 Oct Exhibition of models, drawings and installations by Yona Friedman, the Hungarian-born French architect, urban planner and designer who was influential in the late 1950s and early

Wanted in Rome | July 2017

1960s. Friedman is best known for his theory of mobile architecture, a utopian concept which promoted the building of superstructures suspended over existing cities to avoid the need for extra land space. Central to his manifesto were three requirements: buildings should touch the ground over a minimum area, be capable of being dismantled and moved, and be alterable as required by the occupant. MAXXI Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4, tel. 0632810, www.fondazionemaxxi.it. SALLY MANN: REMEMBERED LIGHT: CY TWOMBLY IN LEXINGTON 22 June–8 Sept American photographer Sally Mann documents the Virginia studio of her friend and mentor, Cy Twombly, the Rome-based American artist who died in 2011. Mann’s poetic images, in both colour and black-and-white, record the objects accumulated in Twombly’s studio, offering a glimpse into his imagination and artistic life. Mann is known for her intimate and disquieting photographs featuring family, landscapes and the nature of mortality. Gagosian Gallery, Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel. 0642086498, www.gagosian.com. ZAHA HADID AND ITALY 23 June-28 Jan MAXXI hosts an exhibition dedicated to the Italian projects of the late architect Zaha Hadid, including the recentlyopened Terminal Marittimo in Salerno, the Messner Mountain Museum in Plan de Corones, the almost complete City Life project in Milan and the MAXXI building itself. The exhibition comprises

Giancarlo Limoni exhibition at MACRO Testaccio. Il grande stagno.

Yona Friedman exhibition at MAXXI. Visualization inside the space chain bridge building of the European Parliament in Strasbourg, 1970s. Courtesy Marianne Polonsky Collection.

From Duchamp to Cattelan: Contemporary art on the Palatine. After Love by Vedovamazzei.

plans and three-dimensional models designed by the Iraqi architect, who had an intensive and enduring relationship with Italy until her death in March last year. MAXXI Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI Secolo, Via Guido Reni 4, tel. 0632810, www.fondazionemaxxi.it. GIANCARLO LIMONI: IL GIARDINO DEL TEMPO 21 June-17 Sept Exhibition featuring 25 large paintings by Giancarlo Limoni who belonged to the Nuova Scuola Romana, an art movement which brushed aside 1980s trends of minimalism and conceptualism in favour of a return to more traditional painting methods. The works on display, created between 1980 and 2017, illustrate the artist’s diverse influences, from Turner to Monet. One of his works, Particolare Romano, featured on a cover of Wanted in Rome in July 2011. MACRO Testaccio, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel 065742647, www.museomacro.org. SILVIA CODIGNOLA: AUTOBIOGRAFIA DELLA MADRE 17 June-17 Sept Rome-based artist Silvia Codignola’s exhibition of 40 paintings, drawings and sculptures focuses on the relationship between mother and baby, examining the newborn’s journey into childhood. Museo Carlo Bilotti - Aranciera, Viale Fiorello La Guardia 4, tel. 060608, www. museocarlobilotti.it. PIRANESI: LA FABBRICA DELL’UTOPIA 16 June-15 Oct Palazzo Braschi presents more than 200 prints by architect and engraver Giovan Battista Piranesi (1720-1778), known for his masterful understanding of perspective and the almost three-dimensional quality of his engravings. The exhibition features Piranesi’s celebrated Vedute di Roma series, including the archaeological heritage of the capital, where the Venetian artist moved in 1740. Museo di Roma Palazzo Braschi, Piazza di S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, www.museodiroma.it. EVER: QUIÉREME 16 June-13 July Galleria Varsi presents Quiéreme, an exhibition by the Argentinian street artist Nicolás Romero Escalada, better known as Ever. The Buenos Aires artist is known for his colourful large-scale murals, both abstract and figurative, depicting portraits of ordinary people. Since opening in 2013, the gallery has hosted regular exhibitions by noted Italian and international street artists. Via di S. Salvatore in Campo 51, tel. 06 68309410, www.galleriavarsi.it.

Piranesi exhibition at Palazzo Braschi. Veduta del Campidoglio e di S. Maria d’Aracoeli.

BALKAN PARTY 15 June-29 July MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea presents the first Roman exhibition of emerging Balkan painters Aleksandar Dimitrijevic, Tadija Janicic and Marija Sevic. The exhibition comprises 10 paintings by Dimitrijevic and Sevic (both from Serbia) and Janicic (from Montenegro). The three artists each employ different styles: Dimitrijevic’s abstract patterns of collected notes and signs; Janicic’s satirical, cartoon-like representations of contemporary man; and Sevic’s intimate portrayals of the people close to her. Via di Monserrato 30, tel. 0668804621, www. majartecontemporanea.com. FUCO UEDA: YUMEI 9 June-15 July Dorothy Circus Gallery presents the first European solo exhibition by Japanese artist Fuco Ueda who is known for her vibrant colours. Her latest works, which feature flora, fauna and female figures in a floating world, have been painted with natural materials including powdered mineral pigments. The Dorothy Circus Gallery specialises in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www. dorothycircusgallery.com. LA BELLEZZA RITROVATA 2 June-26 Nov Art works retrieved by the special unit of Italy’s carabinieri police tasked with the discovery and return of artefacts removed from public and private collections. The exhibition is divided into three sections: works recovered after theft; works saved from earthquake-hit areas of central Italy (see article page 2); and the cultural damage caused by wars. Capitoline Museums, Piazza del Campidoglio 1, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org.

Silvia Codignola’s exhibition Autobiografia della madre at Museo Carlo Bilotti. Madre Laterale.

Balkan Party exhibition at MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea. Naglo zaustavljanje (Sudden stop) by Tadija Janicic. July 2017 | Wanted in Rome

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill hosted the artist’s first solo show in Italy a decade ago. Galleria Lorcan O’Neill, Vicolo dei Catinari, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com. IL MERAVIGLIOSO MONDO Dl WAL 20 May-1 Oct Exhibition showcasing the “wonderful world” of Walter Guidobaldi, or Wal, and 50 of his fantasy works made of marble, bronze and terracotta. Wal is known for his sculptures – both monumental and tiny – featuring mischievous cherubs and animals such as owls, cats, rabbits, piglets and penguins. Casina delle Civette, Via Nomentana 70, tel. 060608, www.museivillatorlonia.it

Imperdibile Marilyn exhibition at Palazzo degli Esami.

LUIGI ONTANI 17 May-22 Sept The prestigious Accademia Nazionale di S. Luca presents a retrospective of the work of Luigi Ontani, considered one of Italy’s most innovative contemporary artists. The exhibition comprises 60 works, ranging from large performance photographs of the early 1970s to his distinctive ceramic sculptures. Since the late 1960s Ontani has experimented with an array of media to explore historical, allegorical and mythological themes, and in 2011 his Lapsus Lupus featured on a Wanted in Rome cover. Accademia Nazionale di S. Luca, Piazza dell’Accademia di S. Luca 77, www.accademiasanluca.eu/it.

Luigi Ontani exhibition at Accademia Nazionale di S. Luca. L’Ombrofago, Serie AnamorPose.

IMPERDIBILE MARILYN 16 May-30 July More than 300 objects that once belonged to Marilyn Monroe offer a glimpse into the private life of the enigmatic Hollywood actress. Palazzo degli Esami, Via Girolamo Induno 4.

STILL SHOWING SHAZIA SIKANDER 30 May-30 Sept Exhibition of mosaics and works on paper by Shazia Sikander. Her work includes drawing, video and digital animation, with diverse themes ranging from geopolitical changes and migration, to religion and human identity. Galleria Valentina Bonomo, Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.

Cross the Streets exhibition at MACRO. Site specific work by JB Rock. See article page 10.

Wanted in Rome | July 2017

RACHEL WHITEREAD 26 May-29 July One of the leading international artists of her generation, Rachel Whiteread won the Turner Prize in 1993 and four years later became the first female artist to represent the UK at the Venice Biennale. Her approach to sculpture is predicated on the translation of negative space into solid form, and her sculptures explore architecture, space, absence and memory. The

PINTORICCHIO PITTORE DEI BORGIA 19 May-10 Sept The Capitoline Museums displays a beautiful fragment of a female face from Renaissance master Pintoricchio’s recentlyrediscovered pictorial cycle in the Vatican’s Borgia apartments. Born in Perguia in 1454, Bernardino di Betto acquired the nickname Pintoricchio (“little painter”) thanks to his small stature. He died in Siena in 1513. Capitoline Museums, Piazza del Campidoglio 1, tel. 06 39967800, www.museicapitolini.org. CONVERSATION PIECE 19 May-17 Sept The Galleria Nazionale presents a selection of works from the ”la Caixa” collection of contemporary art, which was founded in 1985 by Spain’s ”la Caixa” banking foundation and now comprises more than 900 pieces. The works on display are by a diverse group of international artists including Fernanda Fragateiro, Donald Judd, Agnes Martin, Juan Muñoz, Joan Hernández Pijuan, Doris Salcedo, Julião Sarmento, Thomas Schütte, Richard Serra, Jana Sterbak, Antoni Tàpies, Ignacio Uriarte, and Rachel Whiteread. Galleria Nazionale, Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 0632298221, www.lagallerianazionale.com. CROSS THE STREETS 7 May-1 Oct MACRO celebrates “40 years of Street Art and Writing” with a comprehensive exhibition featuring work by some of the most important Italian and international artists associated with the movement. See article page 10. MACRO, Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.org. ARMAN 1954-2005 5 May-23 July A restrospective spanning half a century of works by the French-born American artist Arman (1928-2005). Part painter, part sculptor, Arman is best known for his “accumulations” and destruction/ recomposition of objects, with 70 such

examples on display at Palazzo Cipolla. Fondazione Roma Museo, Via del Corso 320, tel. 066786209, www.fondazioneromamuseo.it. ARTFUTURA 29 April-10 Sept This digital art exhibition explores the common ground shared by the creative arts and science. The show combines disciplines as diverse as robotics, information visualisation, sculpting with ferrofluids and painting with light. On display are works by Paul Friedlander (UK), Esteban Diácono (Argentina), Can Buyukberber (USA), Sachiko Kodama (Japan), Chico MacMurtrie/Amorphic Robot Works (USA) and Universal Everything (UK). Ex-Dogana di Roma, Via dello Scalo di S. Lorenzo 10, www.artfuturaroma.it. ALESSANDRO TWOMBLY 26 April-30 Sept Galleria Alessandra Bonomo presents the latest works by Alessandro Twombly who is known for his colourful, expressionistic representations of flora. The new creations by the artist, son of the late American abstractionist Cy Twombly, include a bronze sculpture and works on canvas and paper in oil and gouache depicting mirage-like images inspired by landscapes of his childhood. Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858, www. bonomogallery.com. STANZE D’ARTISTA: CAPOLAVORI DEL ‘900 ITALIANO 14 April-1 Oct Exhibition at Rome’s municipal art gallery focusing on Italian masterpieces from the first half of the 20th century. The 60 paintings, sculpture and prints on display are by 12 of Italy’s most important artists from the era: Mario Sironi, Arturo Martini, Ferruccio Ferrazzi, Giorgio de Chirico, Alberto Savinio, Carlo Carrà, Ardengo Soffici, Ottone Rosai, Massimo Campigli, Marino Marini, Fausto Pirandello and Scipione. Galleria d’Arte Moderna di Roma Capitale, Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.galleriaartemodernaroma.it. PIERO GILARDI: NATURE FOREVER 13 April-15 Oct This exhibition by Piero Gilardi offers a critical examination of today’s society of consumption and technology, highlighting the complex relationship between man and nature. Centred around themes such as ecology, artistic research, and social and political commitment, the exhibition comprises significant works spanning the Turin artist’s 50-year career in art and activism. MAXXI Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4, tel. 0632810, www.fondazionemaxxi.it/en.

BOTERO 5 May-27 Aug The Vittoriano presents Italy’s first major retrospective dedicated to the work of Fernando Botero, the Colombian artist famous for his so-called Boterismo style which depicts people in exaggerated sizes. The exhibition comprises some 50 works spanning the lengthy career of the 85-year-old artist, with paintings from 1958 up to 2016 on display. Complesso del Vittoriano - Ala Brasini di Roma, Via di S. Pietro in Carcere (Piazza Venezia), www.ilvittoriano.com. VIAGGIO NEI FORI 13 April-12 Nov Two outdoor events with music, light projections and historical commentary will be held at the Forum of Caesar and the Forum of Augustus every night until 12 November. The Viaggio nei Fori initiative attracted 140,000 spectators last year, according to the city. Details can be found on website, www.viaggioneifori.it.

Nature Forever exhibition by Piero Gilardi at MAXXI. Mare (1967).

I FORI DOPI I FORI 30 March-10 Sept Illustrating the history of the Imperial Fora after the fall of the Roman empire, based on the findings of excavations carried out over the last 25 years. Mercati di Traiano, Museo dei Fori Imperiali, Via Quattro Novembre 94. Info tel. 060608, www.mercatiditraiano.it. DA CARAVAGGIO A BERNINI 14 April-30 July Under the subheading Masterpieces of the Italian Seicento from the Spanish Royal Collection, this blockbuster exhibition reflects the strong political and cultural ties between the Spanish court and the Italian states during the 17th century. The exhibited paintings and sculptures were exchanged mainly as diplomatic gifts from Italian rulers keen to earn the favour of the Spanish overlords, in particular through the Viceroyalty of Naples and the Duchy of Milan. Scuderie del Quirinale, Via XXIV Maggio 16, tel. 639967500, www.scuderiequirinale.it.

Stanze d’artista. Capolavori del ‘900 italiano exhibition at Galleria d’Arte Moderna di Roma Capitale. La nuda by Ferruccio Ferrazzi.

ALFREDO PIRRI 12 April-3 Sept I pesci non portano fucili, this exhibition is the first retrospective dedicated to Rome-based artist Alfredo Pirri whose work ranges from painting, sculpture, works on paper and environmental works. MACRO Testaccio, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel 065742647, www. museomacro.org. SPARTACUS: SLAVES AND MASTERS IN ROME 31 March-17 Sept The Ara Pacis uses 250 archaeological finds to examine the complex history of slavery

Arman exhibition at Palazzo Cipolla. Nuits de Chine, 1976. July 2017 | Wanted in Rome

in ancient Rome, with particular focus on the slave revolt led by Spartacus against the Roman Republic between 73 and 71 BC. Museo dell’Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta, tel. 06820771, www.arapacis.it. COLOSSEO: UN’ICONA 8 March-7 Jan 2018 This exhibition uses installations, models and artefacts to shed light on how the Colosseum was used in the centuries after the fall of the Roman empire. The show includes recently-discovered evidence of a 12th-century fortress, which was built into the arena’s ruins by the powerful Frangipane family but collapsed in the 1349 earthquake. The exhibition recounts how the amphitheatre was pillaged for stone, how it was used for stables, slaughterhouses and workshops during the mediaeval era, and how the monument was completely overgrown by the time the Grand Tourists arrived in the 18th century. Colosseum, www.coopculture.it. GIOVANNI BOLDINI 4 March-16 July A retrospective exhibition dedicated to Giovanni Boldini comprising more than 250 works by the Ferrara artist, on loan from major museums and private collections around the world. Complesso del Vittoriano, Via di S. Pietro in Carcere (Piazza Venezia), tel. 068715111, www.ilvittoriano.com.

art news Rome Art Week returns Artists and galleries can register until 15 July for the second edition of Rome Art Week (RAW), the contemporary art festival of free cultural events in Roman galleries and studios. The collaborative, independent and non-profit venture, whose inaugural edition in 2016 attracted more than 25,000 visitors, takes place from 9-14 October 2017. The first edition registered 124 galleries and cultural institutions, with 209 artists producing 207 art events, 153 open studio visits and 99 exhibitions. For details see website, www.romeartweek.com.

Registration is open for Rome Art Week until 15 July.

Wanted in Rome | July 2017

Foglie di Pietra by Giuseppe Penone outside Fendi store in Largo Goldoni.

Fendi gifts Penone sculpture to Rome Fashion house Fendi unveiled a permanent artwork by leading Italian sculptor Giuseppe Penone in front of its flagship store in Largo Goldoni in late May. The sculpture Foglie di Pietra [Leaves of Stone], was commissioned by Fendi and was donated to Rome to “give thanks”, according to the company’s chairman Pietro Beccari. The work features two bronze trees, one around 18m high, the other half that height, whose branches carry an 11-ton block of marble suspended some five metres above the pavement. The fashion house restored several of Rome’s fountains, notably the Trevi Fountain, and is the main sponsor for the Italian pavilion at the 2017 Venice Biennale. Associated with the Arte Povera movement, Penone is known for his works that engage with poetry, nature and time using materials ranging from terracotta to iron. Archaeology at Rome’s Fiumicino airport Ancient statues of Apollo, Aphrodite and the river god Tiber are on display in the international departures area of Rome’s Fiumicino airport, thanks to a collaboration between the airport and the nearby Parco Archeologico di Ostia Antica. Between now and December passengers taking international nonSchengen flights can view the three

original statues, dating from the second century AD and discovered during excavations in 1939 in Portus, the area’s ancient Roman harbour. The airport is also providing a free shuttle service to and from Portus, the man-made hexagonal lake that was once the great maritime port of imperial Rome and centre of the empire’s trading economy. Hokusai and Monet shows coming to Rome Rome will host two major exhibitions this autumn: Hokusai at Ara Pacis and Monet at the Vittoriano. The Ara Pacis exhibition, from 12 Oct-14 Jan, will contain more than 200 works by Katsushika Hokusai (1760-1849) including The Great Wave and One Hundred Views of Mount Fuji. The exhibition will comprise Hokusai’s entire collected works, including drawings and paintings, displayed in two phases to protect the most fragile works, including two different versions of The Great Wave. The Vittoriano hosts an exhibition dedicated to Monet, the father of Impressionism, with some 60 works from the Musée Marmottan Monet in Paris, including landscapes, portraits and his garden series. The show opens on 19 Oct but tickets can be pre-purchased online until 31 July, see website for details, www.ilvittoriano.com. Andy Devane

CLASSICAL Most of main musical associations and auditoriums in Rome have come to the end of their main seasons but there are still plenty of other concerts and musical events throughout the summer, many of them organised by smaller associations. Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com. Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org. Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All the concerts take place at the Auditorium Parco della Musica (see address above). Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it. Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone.com. RomeConcerts, Methodist Chruch, Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it. Roma Sinfonietta, Auditorium Ennio Morricone, Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com. Roma Tre Orchestra, Teatro Palladium, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it. ACCADEMIA FILARMONIC ROMANA I GIARDINI DI LUGLIO There is always a series of musical and dance events, meetings and guided tours during July in the gardens of the Filarmonica, Via Flaminia 118. The programme details are on the academy’s website, www.filarmonicaromana.org. ACCADEMIA S. CECILIA JULY AT S. CECILIA S. Cecilia has programmed a series of

Philip Glass marks his 80th birthday at S. Cecilia and at the Ravello Festival.

evening concerts in the cavea at the Auditorium Parco della Musica under the umbrella of Luglio Suona Bene. Popular jazz pianist Stefano Bollani performs on 5 July, conductor and pianist Ezio Bosso on 12 July. Bollani and Bosso are also well-known television personalities and both have included their own compositions in the programme. Bosso will be doubling as both conductor and soloist. On 16 July Philip Glass plays his complete piano etudes composed between 1991 and 2012 to mark his 80th birthday and S. Cecilia orchestra and chorus will perform Carmina Burana on 19 July. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it. CONCERTI DEL TEMPIETTO FESTIVAL MUSICALE DELLE NAZIONI NOTTI ROMANE A TEATRO MARCELLO 1 July- end Sept The Tempietto always manages to fill the summer gap when other musical

Ezio Bosso plays at the Cavea, Auditorium Parco della Musica in the Luglio Suona Bene programme for S. Cecilia.

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institutions go on holiday. The programme is even more varied this year with choral performances and jazz as well as the piano solos each evening in the Chiostro di Campitelli of Teatro di Marcello from the beginning of July to the end of September. For the programme of concerts see www.tempietto.it. ROMA OPERA OMNIA Throughout July A series of concerts with opera arias, baroque and sacred music mainly in the buildings belonging to the Doria Pamphilj family. Some are also organised with dinner at a local restaurant afterwards. For the full programme see www.romaoperaomnia.com. S. IVO ALLA SAPIENZA 13 July-12 Aug Once again this year there will be concerts in the beautiful setting of the courtyard of S. Ivo alla Sapienza, just across Corso Rinascimento from Piazza Navona. The programme, organised each year by the International Chamber Ensemble, includes music by Gershwin, Strauss, Lehar, Tchaikovsky, Morricone, Sinatra, the Beatles, as well as famous waltz and tango. For programme see www.icensemble.it. CHURCHES IN ROME It is worth checking several churches around the city for summer concerts. St Paul’s Within the Walls, Via Nazionale, has a full programme of opera music. S. Agnese in Agone in Piazza Navona features baroque music and opera arias and the Chiesa Evangelica Valdese also features opera arias with dinner at a nearby restaurant.

POP, ROCK, JAZZ IL GIARDINO DI MONK CLUB 13 July Rome’s Monk Club presents a programme of live events in July including concerts by English folk rock musician Michael Chapman (11 July) and American rock band The Warlocks (12 July). For details see Monk website, www.monkroma.it. U2 15-16 July U2 perform two concerts at Rome’s Olympic Stadium as part of a worldwide tour celebrating the 30th anniversary of the band’s release of The Joshua Tree, which has sold over 25 million copies. The band will play the entire album, which spawned the massive hit singles With or Without You, I Still Haven’t Found What I’m Looking For, and Where the Streets Have No Name. The Irish rockers will be supported by Noel Gallagher’s High Flying Birds. Stadio Olimpico, Viale dello Stadio Flaminio 1.

dance BOLZANO BOLZANO DANZA 13-29 July Dance enthusiasts should head for Bolzano as usual this year to see the latest in contemporary dance, some performed for the first time in Italy. There are performances for the public and workshops for professionals. Highlights include the first appearance in Italy of the American dancer Richard Siegal (17

The Warlocks perform at Monk Club on 12 July.

July) with My Generation; KK (I’m a Kommunist Kid), choreography by Glen Çaçi with his brother Olger based on the theme of identity. The Çaçi brothers are from Albania but live respectively in Italy and Spain (19 July); Le surrealisme au service de la révolution choreography by Marcos Morau (Italian premiere) and Fabrications, choreography by Merce Cunningham with CCN – Ballet de Lorraine (24 July); 7 x Rien by Olivier Dubois with the Ballet du Nord (26-27 July); TaikokiaT studio01 choreography by Masako Matsushita (28 July); Cartes Blanches choreography by Mourad Merzouki (Italian premiere) 28 July. All programme details and locations of performances are on the Bolzano Danza website www.bolzanodanza.it.

MILAN TEATRO ALLA SCALA A MIDSUMMER NIGHT’S DREAM MENDELSSOHN 28 June-22 July Balanchine’s Midsummer Night’s Dream comes back to La Scala danced by the students of La Scala’s famous ballet academy. This is La Scala’s 2003 version with scenery and sets by Luisa Spinatelli. David Coleman conducts the La Scala orchestra. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodramamatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org. SWAN LAKE 8-21 July The students of La Scala Ballet academy dance this Tchaikovsky favourite. It is based on the Petipa choreography with adaptions by Alexei Ratmansky and is a co-production with Zurich’s Opernhaus. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodramamatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

Svetlana Zakharova Gala evening at the Ravenna festival on 22 July. See Festivals around Italy page 32.

RAVENNA RAVENNA FESTIVAL GALA SVETLANA ZAKHAROVA 22 July Svetlana Zakharova, first ballerina of the Bolshoi Theatre and star of the La Scala ballet, returns to the Ravenna festival with top dancers from the Bolshoi and the Mariinsky ballet companies who dance with her in an evening of classical repertoire. Palazzo Mauro de Andre, Viale Europa 1, and Teatro Alighieri, Via Mariani 2, www.ravennafestival.org.

ROME There is an interesting programme of contemporary dance this summer at the two main Rome theatres, Teatro Argentina and Teatro India and also at Teatro Vascello. IL TEATRO CHE DANZA 13 June-15 July The Teatro Argentina and Teatro India stage a series of 11 dance events by contemporary choreographers during the summer and then again in September. 6-7 July. Skies directed by Joao Garcia Miguel and choreographed by Lara Guidetti. Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1. 7-8 July. Mash, a “mash-up” of music samples and dance styles, by Annamaria Ajmone and Marcella Corvalàn. Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1. 11-12 July. Roberto Castello’s new choreography ALFA-appunti sulla questione July 2017 | Wanted in Rome

festival that brings Latin American music, dance, food and culture to Rome. Each year Latin American dancers and singers take to the stage, providing over 100 hours of live music from Latin America’s diverse ethnic cultures. At the time of going to press the July programme includes a concert by Ozuna, from Puerto Rico, on 13 July. Located at Parco Rosati in the city’s EUR district, the popular summer festival is designed to raise awareness of Latin American culture and act as a bridge between Italians and the estimated 100,000 Latin Americans living in the Lazio region. For programme see website. Parco Rosati, Via delle Tre Fontane 24 (EUR), tel. 0687463296, www.fiesta.it.

Richard Siegal dances in Italy for the first time at Bolzano Danza on 17 July.

maschile. Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1. 12 July. Che ne resta di noi? featuring six people on a stairway that doesn’t lead to heaven, with choreography by Claudia Casollaro. Teatro Argentina, Largo Argentina. 14-15 July. Temporaneo Tempobeat, whose five dancers interpret the relationship between movement and sound, with choreography by Ariella Vidach. Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1. Following a summer break, the dance festival continues from 19-27 September. All details are on Teatro Di Roma website, www.teatrodiroma.net. TEATRO VASCELLO FESTIVAL INTERNAZIONALE DI DANZA CONTEMPORANEA FUORI PROGRAMMA 9-26 July A selection of contemporary Italian and European dance extends the theatre’s ordinary season into the summer. 9 July. Kova – Geographic tools, choreography by Marcos Morau with the Spanish company La Veronal. 11 July. Xebeche, choreography by Marco Valerio Amico and Rhuena Bracci with the Gruppo Nanou from Ravenna. 14 July. Jentu, choreography by Stefano Mazzotta with Zerogrammi from Turin. 18 July. Romeo e Giulietta, choreography by Roberto Zappalà with Compagnia Zappalà from Catania. 26 July. Of Man and Beast, choreography by Anthony Missen with Company Chameleon from England. The Hesitation Day, choreography by Mauro Astolfi. The national premiere of The Divided Self, choreography by Mauro Astolfi. Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it. ROBERTO BOLLE AND FRIENDS If you haven’t already had a chance to

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see Roberto Bolle, the principal dancer of both the American Theatre Ballet and La Scala, you will be able to catch him touring Italy this summer with his specially invited friends. Florence on 7-8 July. Opera di Firenze, Piazzale Vittorio Gui 1. Rome on 11-13 July. Baths of Caracalla. Spoleto on 15 July. Festival di Spoleto, Piazza del Duomo. Verona on 17 July. Fondazione Arena. YOUNG ARAB CHOREOGRAPHERS Six young choreographers will tour Italy until September under the auspices of the ministry of culture. Guy Nader (Lebanon), Bassam Abou Diab (Lebanon), Jad Tank (Lebanon), Mounir Saeed (Egypt), Hamdi Dridi (Tunisia) and Sharaf Dar Zaid (Palestine) will visit Pescara, Potenza and Matera, Bologna, Turin, Rome, Brescia, Florence and Ancona.

festivals IN ROME

FESTIVAL TRASTEVERE RIONE DEL CINEMA 1 June-1 Sept The popular open-air Festival Trastevere Rione del Cinema returns to Piazza S. Cosimato with “60 nights of free cinema under the stars”, showing all films in their original language, with Italian subtitles (with the exception of the Disney Classics series). There are retrospective sections dedicated to David Lynch, Asghar Farhadi and Stanley Kubrick, and “silent” horror classics at midnight on Saturday nights, such as The Exorcist and Halloween, with spectators provided with earphones. This year the festival is equipped with a “super mega projector” offering high-definition viewing, with seating spaces doubled from 200 to 400. For programme see website. Piazza S. Cosimato, www. trasteverecinema.it. GAY VILLAGE 8 June-Sept Gay Village celebrates its 16th edition with a programme of shows, live dj

ARTCITY 23 May-15 Sept Cultural festival comprising more than 100 events incorporating art, architecture, audiovisual, dance, literature, music and theatre, at museums and cultural sites in the Lazio region. Events take place throughout the summer at Palazzo Venezia, Castel S. Angelo and the Vittoriano in Rome, as well as the “Luoghi d’arte del Lazio” locations outside the capital such as Sperlonga, Palestrina, Nemi, Bagnaia, Tuscania, Caprarola, Ostia and Veroli. For programme see website, www.art-city.it. ¡FIESTA! 31 May-Sept The 23rd edition of the four-month

Tom Jones for Luglio Suona Bene at Auditorium Parco della Musica on 27 July.

Rome’s international literature festival at Basilico di Massenzio until 21 July.

The xx at Postepay Sound Rock in Roma on 10 July.

sets, theatre, film screenings and special guests. The 15,000-sqm venue is divided into three separate music areas offering Pop, House and Hits, and there are stalls, bars and restaurants. For full details see website. Parco del Ninfeo, Via delle Tre Fontane, EUR, tel. 065809098, www.gayvillage.it.

of the Auditorium Parco della Musica, this musical initiative has gained a sturdy reputation for the quality and variety of its programme with concerts most evenings in July at the Auditorium’s open-air cavea. Translating as “July sounds good”, the programme caters for all tastes and includes pop, rock, world music, jazz, classical and electronic music. Big international names in July include Kaiser Chiefs (6 July), The Pretenders (14 July), Charles Aznavour (23 July), Tom Jones (26 July), and The Divine Comedy (29 July). The festival ends on 3 Aug with I Tamburi del Vesuvio. See also Classical section. For full programme see website. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin, www.auditorium.com. See also Classical.

ISOLA DEL CINEMA 17 June-3 Sept Now in its 23rd year, this quality cinema event lights up the Isola Tiberina in the middle of the river Tiber each evening over the summer. Under the title Roma città creative, the 2017 edition of this multi-faceted festival includes 80 nights of screenings, encounters and discussions with important figures from the world of film. Its programme comprises films by emerging directors, independent cinema, documentaries, and major international productions, including films screened in their original language versions. Tiber Island, tel. 0658333113, www.isoladelcinema.com. LUGLIO SUONA BENE 17 June-3 Aug In the 15 years since the inauguration

INTERNATIONAL LITERATURE FESTIVAL 20 June-21 July Letterature – Festival Internazionale di Roma returns to its traditional venue at the Basilica di Massenzio in the Roman Forum, taking place over eight evenings. The popular initiative celebrates the written word with a host of inter-

Isola del Cinema returns to Tiber Island this summer.

nationally acclaimed authors who are invited to write a text inspired by a chosen theme, which this year is Scrittori/ Lettori: I banditi delle parole, composed especially for the event. The 16th edition of the annual literature festival features a line-up of award-winning Italian and international authors who will read from their work, supported by actors and live music. The international aspect of the programme includes Ireland’s Colm Tóibín, Germany’s Jenny Erpenbeck, Hungary’s László Krasznahorkai and Britain’s Ali Smith (5 July); American Katie Kitamura, Britain’s Lisa Hilton, and Inge Schilperoord from the Netherlands (11 July); Vietman-American Viet Thanh Nguyen and Britain’s Hanif Kureishi (13 July). Entry is free but tickets must be picked up before the readings begin, from 20.00, at a designated booth on Via dei Fori Imperiali. Tickets are provided on a first-come, first-served basis, and readings take place at 21.00, with access to the Basilica from 20.30. There are also numerous parallel events at the Casa delle Letterature, including the exhibition Fiori scarlatti. Manguste. E Volo Notturno, with works by Elisa Montessori inspired by the poetry of Emily Dickinson, Marianne Moore and Ingeborg Bachmann. For information tel. 060608 or see festival website, www.festivaldelleletterature.it. JUST MUSIC FESTIVAL 20 June-9 July An expanded edition of this international music festival which launched in Rome last year returns with an eclectic line-up of acts, including many big names, with concerts mainly in the ExDogana venue in S. Lorenzo but also at Spazio Novecento in EUR. The festival concludes with Richie Hawtin (7 July), Carl Cox (8 July) and Fatboy Slim on 9 July. For details see festival website, www.justmusicfestival.it. July 2017 | Wanted in Rome

festivals AROUND italy LA FOCE, TUSCANY

Kraftwerk makes its only Italian appearance of its world tour at Umbria Jazz on 7 July.

EFFETTO NOTTE 21 June-6 Sept The second edition of the summer festival at Rome’s Casa del Cinema in Villa Borghese is once again both outdoor and free. The programme comprises Italian and international films screened under six categories: Semplicemente Steno; British Pride; L’Italia di Paolo Virzì; In mare aperto; Buon Compleanno Lucky Red; and Roma: una notte all’opera. The festival also hosts Cinema Azerbaigiano (22-24 July). In the case of rain the films will be shown in the cinema’s Sala Deluxe. Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1 (Villa Borghese), tel. 0642016224, www. casadelcinema.it. POSTEPAY SOUND ROCK IN ROMA 23 June-2 Aug Postepay Sound Rock in Roma is a summer-long event dedicated to rock music, hosting over 1.5 million fans and some of the world’s biggest-name rock bands since it began in 2009. The line-up of the ninth edition includes major rock, heavy metal and rap acts, as well as other genres of music. The July programme includes rock band Alter Bridge + Blues Pills (5 July), Mannarino + Orchestraccia + Rogê, Lavinia Mancusi + Batuqueiros di Roma (6 July), Italian rappers J-Ax & Fedez (8 July), American singer-songwriter and rapper of Fugees fame, Ms. Lauryn Hill (9 July), English indie rock group The xx (10 July), Italian rappers Marra / Guè (13 July), German industrial band Einstürzende Neubauten + Spiritual Front (17 July). One of the highlights of this year’s music programme is a concert by American funk rock veterans Red Hot Chili Peppers + Knower

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(20 July), followed by English rockers Kasabian (21 July), French alternative rock group Phoenix (22 July), industrial metal singer Marilyn Manson (25 July), Italian alternative rockers Afterhours (27 July), electropop group Lo Stato Sociale + Ex-Otago (29 July), closing with American punk rock band The Offspring + Pennywise + Millencolin (2 Aug). The action takes place on three different-sized stages throughout the former Cappannelle racecourse site near Ciampino. Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, wwww.rockinroma. com. VILLA ADA: ROMA INCONTRA IL MONDO 30 June-Aug The 24th edition of Rome’s annual world music festival returns to the shores of the little lake in the gardens of Villa Ada this summer. Offering interesting multi-ethnic and multi-cultural music in pleasant surroundings, the event’s name translates as “Rome meets the world” and the festival. The programme, which begins on 30 June with Italian rapper Coez, includes several international acts such as Irish post-rock band God is an Astronaut (10 July), London avant-garde electronic group Archive (12 July), and Scottish rockers Primal Scream (16 July). The festival area opens each night at 20.00 so that the public can enjoy food and drink from one of the ethnic food stalls before the music kicks off at 22.00. There are ticket discounts for families, the unemployed, and students. For programme see website. Villa Ada, Via di Ponte Salario, tel. 0641734712, www.villaada.org.

INCONTRI IN TERRA SIENA 29 July-5 Aug Once again this short but high standard musical festival is held at the home of the Origo family in memory of Antonio and Iris under the guidance of the artistic director Alessio Bax. It is difficult to know which concert to select but an obvious choice would be the two evenings with violinist Joshua Bell – the Brahms Gala on 3 Aug and the chamber music concert on 4 Aug. There are also guided visits of the house and gardens and the surrounding countryside as well as aperitivi and evening buffets either in the gardens or at local restaurants. This year there is also a jazz concert on 2 Aug with pianist and composer Dan Tepfer and the Escher string quartet. For the full programme see itslafoce.org.

MACERATA STERISFERIO 21 July-9 Aug The programme includes two Puccini operas, Turandot (21 and 29 July, 4 and 13 Aug) and Madame Butterfly (22 and 28 July, 6 and 12 Aug) as well as Verdi’s Aida (30 July, 5, 11, 14 Aug), a favourite of all summer festivals. But the real surprise this year is a completely new opera, Shi (20 and 26 July, 2 and 9 Aug), by Italian composer, Carlo Boccadoro, commissioned especially for the festival. It is inspired by the life of explorer

The Sferisterio sets the scene for the operas at the Macerata festival.

gna, with the live music provided by the Luigi Cherubini Youth Orchestra. For full details see the festival website www.ravennafestival.org.

RAVELLO

The Wayne Shorter Quartet performs both at Umbria Jazz (14 July) and the Ravello festival (16 July).

and Jesuit Matteo Ricci and is for two baritones, two pianos and three percussion instruments. www.sferisterio.it.

MARTINA FRANCA FESTIVAL DELLA VALLE D’ITRIA 14 July-4 Aug The belcanto festival not far from Alberobello in Puglia is dedicated this year to Rodolfo Celleti to mark the centenary of his birth. Italian musicologist, music critic and expert of belcanto Celletti was the artistic director of the festival from 1980-1993. The programme covers over four centuries of music, from Monteverdi to Puccini, including Vivaldi, Piccinni, Meyerbeer and Puccini. The works include Orlando Furioso by Vivaldi, Other Love Songs by Monteverdi, Gianni Schicchi by Puccini and Margherita D’Anjou by Meyerbeer. For full details see festivaldellavalleditri.it. See also Opera Notes page 33

PERUGIa UMBRIA JAZZ 7-16 July After a few dull years Umbria Jazz looks as though it is back on track again. The party kicks off on 7 July with the only Italian appearance of Kraftwerk, one of the first electronic bands to popularise electronic music back in the early 1970s. Popular British jazzman Jamie Cullum performs on 8 July. There is an evening for Italian songwriters, dedicated to Luigi Tenco – one of the Genoese school along Fabrizio De André and Gino Paoli – on the 50th anniversary of his death. An evening is dedicated to women in jazz on 10 July, along with the return to Umbria Jazz of Dee Dee

Wanted in Rome | July 2017

Bridgewater. The Wayne Shorter Quartet plays on 14 July. Five pianists mark the centenary of the birth of Thelonious Monk in 5 by Monk by 5 on 15 July. The list of concerts goes on and on, with jazz in the national gallery of Perugia, in wine bars, in squares, streets and parks. Stefano Bollani rounds the 10 jazz-packed days at the Arena Santa Giuliana on 16 July. From 4-16 July there are also the jazz clinics for 200 students organised by Berklee Summer School now in its 32nd season. For all the details see website www.umbriajazz.com.

RAVENNA RAVENNA FESTIVAL 25 May-11 July One of the themes of Italy’s top class multi-disciplinary festival this year is the “Noise of Time” taken from the title of the Julien Barnes novel based on the life of Shostakovich. The starting point is the Russian Revolution in October 1917, the subsequent destruction of old patterns of thought and tradition which then lead to the conflict between intellectual creativity and political power, hence the choice of Shostakovich. There will be the annual Roads of Friendship concert with the Tehran symphony orchestra and chorus together with by the Luigi Cherubini Youth Orchestra founded and conducted by Riccardo Muti on 8 July, plus a series of other concerts with international orchestras and soloists. The dance section features Svetlana Zakharova and friends on 22 July. Music and Cinema focuses on classical films with live music including Charlie Chaplin’s The Gold Rush (11 July) now fully restored by the Cineteca di Bolo-

RAVELLO FESTIVAL 1 July- 30 Aug After the opening of the festival at Villa Rufolo, which inspired parts of Wagner’s Parsifal, there is a concert by Martha Argerich on 8 July, the Deutsche Symphonie Orchester Berlin on 9 July, a Philip Glass concert on 14 July to mark his 80th birthday, Wayne Shorter on 16 July, and the usual dawn concert with the Orchestra Filarmonica G Verdi on 11 Aug. In the dance section the Marie Chouinard company performs on 11 July, Batsheva Dance on 19 July, a special Italian-Palestinian dance project, Abballamm’! on 22 July and a performance by the Italian stars in the Paris Opera ballet company on 29 July. To check full programme see www.ravellofestival.com.

SPOLETO FESTIVAL DI SPOLETO 30 June-16 July Although its director Giorgio Ferrara claims that the festival improves year by year, it is still not quite what it was in the good old days of Giancarlo Menotti, the tenth anniversary of whose death is this year. To be sure there are several big names. The grandest is Riccardo Muti, who conducts the closing concert with his Orchestra Giovanile Luigi Cherubini on 16 July at the Palazzo Del Duomo. There is the ubiquitous and talented dancer Roberto Bolle and his invitees (15 July). There is Eleonora Abbagnato who will dance a new work by Davide Bombana (see Dance). The poster this year has been designed by Amish Kapoor so it will certainly become a collector’s items as is the tradition. However opera which was once one of the highlights of the festival under Menotti has almost disappeared. After two nights of Don Giovanni at the beginning of the festival all that is left now is a one act opera Delitto e Dovere based on Oscar Wilde’s short story Lord Arthur Savile’s Crime (7-9 July). Most of the emphasis seems to be on theatre and there are still the midday and evening concerts throughout the festival. For details see www.festivaldispoleto. com.

TORRE DEL LAGO PUCCINI OPERA FESTIVAL 14 July-19 Aug There are five operas this year at the

Puccini festival which is hosted in the grounds of the house where he once lived. Turandot (14 and 23 July, 4 and 12 Aug); La Rondine (15 July-5 Aug); La Boheme ( 21 and 28 July, 11 Aug); Tosca (29 July and 10 and !9 Aug); Madame Butterfly (18 Aug). There is also the world premiere of a a new contemporary opera Jeanne d’ Arco by Giuliana Spalletti on 9 Aug, as well as other concerts and performances and an evening in homage to France on 22 July with the orchestra of Nice Opera. There are also performances by the soloists of the Novaya Opera Mosca on 27-29 July. See website, www.festivalpuccini.it.

VERONA FONDAZIONE ARENA 27 June-27 Aug Funding is one of the major problems for the Arena festival and almost the first decision of its new president, Giuliano Polo, was to axe its resident ballet company in February this year. However the foundation is confident of its future as it has already published next year’s programme online. The confidence may be well placed as Polo has the steady hand of the sovrintendente of Rome’s Teatro dell’Opera, Carlo Fuortes, behind him, as well as his long administrative experience at Rome’s S. Cecilia. There are no real surprises in the 2017 repertoire, with the usual favourites of Nabucco (until 26 Aug), Aida (in a 2013 staging until 24 July and in the traditional 1913 version 28 July-27 Aug), Rigoletto (until 27 July), Madame Butterfly (8 July-19 Aug), Roberto Bolle and Friends (17 July), Tosca (until 25 Aug). Among the extra attractions this year are Placido Domingo in a one-night gala appearance on 21 July singing Spanish popular music, and Beethoven’s 9th symphony on the Ferragosto holiday on 15 Aug. The new production this year is Nabucco, a first for the French director Arnaud Bernard, who already has another three new productions to his name this year; Tosca in Prague, I Vespri Siciliani in St Petersburg and Simon Boccanegra in Lausanne. Most performances of Nabucco will be conducted by Daniel Oren. However Spanish conductor Jordi Bernacer is making his debut at the Arena for three nights in July (12, 15, 18 July). Bernacer is also conducting Carmen at the Baths of Caracalla in Rome this summer (see Rome Festivals Caracalla). The 2013 Aida (un til 24 July) is La Fura del Baus version which was commissioned to mark both the centenary of the Arena and the birth of Giuseppe Verdi in 1813. Madame Butterfly is the muchloved Zeffirelli version.

opera FLORENCE OPERA DI FIRENZE July The summer programme at the Opera di Firenze in July takes place in the courtyard of Palazzo Pitti. The programme of operas by Italian composers includes Donizetti’s L’Elisir d’Amor 9-29 July and Rossini’s Il Barbiere di Siviglia 10-28 July. Opera di Firenze, Cortile di Palazzo Pitti, www.operadifirenze.it.

MILAN LA BOHEME BY PUCCINI 17 June-14 July Franco Zeffirelli’s popular staging of this Puccini favourite returns to La Scala, with Sonya Yoncheva making her

Tosca at the Baths of Caracalla from 8 July-8 Aug.

debut at Milan’s opera theatre, alternating with Aylin Perez. Evelino Pidò conducts La Scala orchestra and chorus. Yoncheva gave a recent memorable interpretation of Violetta in the Met’s contemporary staging of La Traviata this spring. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

OPERA NOTES

Al via il 43° Festival della Valle d’Itria a Martina Franca (14/7 − 4/8) dedicato al centenario della nascita di Rodolfo Celletti, musicologo e critico musicale, studioso di voci e di vocalità ed esperto di belcanto, nonché storico direttore artistico del Festival negli anni ottanta per oltre un decennio. In cartellone titoli che riguardano quella che fu la “passione” d’un vita di Rodolfo Celletti: l’opera lirica, da quando nacque nel Seicento con Monteverdi, il maggior esponente, a quando convenzionalmente “morì” nella prima metà del Novecento con Giacomo Puccini. Si inizierà con Orlando Furioso (14 e 31/7) l’opera di Antonio Vivaldi di musica assai bella, che vanta almeno tre edizioni diverse. Sonia Prima sarà la protagonista e Diego Fasolis il maestro direttore e concertatore, alla guida del suo complesso specializzato in musica antica: I Barocchisti. Seguiranno due celebri e stupendi madrigali in stile rappresentativo di Claudio Monteverdi: Lamento della Ninfa e Ballo delle Ingrate (15, 19, 22/7 e 1/8) estratti dall’Ottavo Libro: Madrigali Guerrieri et Amorosi stampato a Venezia nel 1638. Sempre dallo stesso Libro è estratto il terzo madrigale in programma: Hor che’l ciel e la terra, su un sonetto di Francesco Petrarca. Tra gli interpreti Monica Bacelli, nota interprete del repertorio barocco, al suo debutto al Festival. Con Le donne vendicate, un intermezzo per musica in due atti su libretto di Carlo Goldoni e musica di Niccolò Piccinni (16, 21 e 28/7), si vuole approfondire la conoscenza di un interessante (per il lirismo tutto italiano) e prolifico (più di cento i melodrammi scritti) compositore ancora troppo poco studiato, che fu tuttavia un esponente di spicco della scuola napoletana del Settecento in Europa. Seguirà Un giorno di regno (19 e 30/7) la seconda opera di Giuseppe Verdi e la sua prima e unica a carattere buffo, la cui musica ricalca il “belcantismo” e gli stilemi propri di Rossini e di Donizetti. La regia, le scene e i costumi saranno curati dal soprano Stefania Bonfadelli, docente dell’Accademia del Belcanto di Martina Franca; nel cast ci sarà Vito Priante, un basso ormai più che affermato e apprezzato nell’ambito del melodramma ottocentesco. A questo titolo insolito del catalogo verdiano ben si accoppia Gianni Schicchi di Giacomo Puccini (23, 27 e 28/7) ugualmente l’unico titolo allegro e divertente di una produzione incentrata esclusivamente sulla serietà e sulla drammaticità. Ma certamente il pezzo forte del Festival della Valle d’Itria 2017 sarà Margherita d’Anjou, melodramma semiserio di Felice Romani con musica di Giacomo Meyerbeer (29/7, 2 e 4/8) dato alla Scala di Milano nell’autunno 1820, che ora sarà riproposto per la prima volta in epoca moderna. Fu un grande successo, che rivelò “in nuce” il compositore di talento che poi rifulse a Parigi quando si cimentò con il grandopéra. Sul podio salirà il direttore musicale del Festival: Fabio Luisi, mentre la regia sarà curata da Alessandro Talevi, che proporrà una lettura contemporanea di una vicenda accaduta nella seconda metà del XV secolo. Paolo Di Nicola

July 2017 | Wanted in Rome

La bohème at Teatro alla Scala.

HANSEL AND GRETEL HUMBERDINCK 2-24 Sept In the first production after the summer break it has now become the custom for the students of La Scala Academy to stage an opera under the guidance of a well-known conductor and director. This year the opera is Engelbert Humperdinck’s Hansel and Gretel conducted by Marc Albrecht, chief conductor of the Dutch National Opera, and directed by Sven-Eric Bechtolf artistic director of the Salzberg festival. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

ROME TEATRO DELL’OPERA SUMMER SEASON BATHS OF CARACALLA 13 July-9 Aug There are three operas in the Teatro dell’ Opera summer season at the Baths of Caracalla for a total of 23 evenings, seven more than last year. Bizet’s Carmen (28 June-4 Aug) is this year’s new production conducted by Jesús LópezCobos and Jordi Bernacer with the up-and coming Argentinian director Valentina Carrasco. Carmen is a new venture for Carrasco, who collaborates with the La Fura dels Baus in Barcelona. It is followed by Puccini’s Tosca (8 July-8 Aug) in the well-tried Pier Luigi Pizzi production, conducted by Donato Renzetti. Verdi’s Nabucco, conducted by Roberto Rizzi Brignoli and directed by Federico Grazzini runs from 25 July9 Aug. Terme di Caracalla, Viale delle Terme di Caracalla. DIVO NERONE OPERA ROCK 1 June-10 Sept This could be one of the summer’s most

Wanted in Rome | July 2017

controversial events. The subject is the emperor Nero and the action takes place on the site of what was once the dining hall of his infamous Domus Aurea. A special stage has been erected on the spot on the side of the the Palatine, against considerable opposition, in what was the Barberini family vineyard in the 17th and 18th centuries. The plot gives a different take on the emperor, who is known to the world as the man who instigated the fire of Rome in 64 AD. Here he is portrayed a young man with a passion for art who is manipulated by his mother, Agrippina, and ambitious politicians. For more details see www.divonerone.com/en. The production is the work of Nero Divine Ventures. The entrance is from the Arch of Titus side of the Forum.

Sogno di una Notte di Mezza Estate directed by Riccardo Cavallo (9-20 Aug), Il Mercante di Venezia directed by Loredana Scaramella (24 Aug-10 Sept), and Macbeth directed by Daniele Salvo (15 Sept-1 Oct). The festival ends on a high-note for Rome’s English speakers: the London-based Bedouin Shakespeare Company returns for the third year with an English-language co-production of Much Ado About Nothing, directed by Chris Pickles (515 Oct). In addition there are several poetic and musical projects including Sonetti D’Amore; Playing Shakespeare and Il Canto di Shakespeare. Rome’s Globe Theatre, located in the heart of Villa Borghese, is a full-scale timber reproduction of Shakespeare’s Globe, copied from the original oak and thatch designs, and almost identical to the one that stands on London’s South Bank. Last year the festival attracted some 65,000 spectators, and all shows are in Italian with the exception of the final production. For full details see website, www.globetheatreroma.com. Largo Acqua Felix, Villa Borghese, tel. 060608.

THEATRE SHAKESPEARE AT THE GLOBE 22 June-15 Oct This summer’s Shakespearean programme at Rome’s Silvano Toti Globe Theatre runs for four months and includes an English-language performance. The festival is once again under the artistic direction of popular Roman actor Gigi Proietti who takes to the stage to perform a Shakespeare tribute, based on the monologue Edmund Kean by Raymund FitzSimons (7-16 July). The season opened in late June with Troppu trafficu ppi nenti, a Sicilian adaptation of Much Ado About Nothing by Andrea Camilleri, and the programme continues in July with Enrico V, adapted and directed by Daniele Pecci, with a very young cast, from 21 July-6 Aug. This is followed by

Gigi Proietti in Edmund Kean at the Globe Theatre from 7-16 July. Photo Marco Borrelli.

academies CASA DI GOETHE 22 March-24 Sept Punti di Vista (Points of View) is an exhibition by German photographer Kerstin Schomburg who, during the summer of 2015, followed in the footsteps of important landscape artist and friend of Goethe, Jakob Philipp Hackert (1737-1807). Schomburg uses her camera to provide a modern version of Hackert’s celebrated scenes of Rome, including St Peter’s and the Baths of Caracalla, as well as the Roman hinterland such as the waterfalls of Tivoli, Via Appia Antica, and Villa Conti in Frascati. The exhibition also includes some original Hackert works. Casa di Goethe, Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www.casadigoethe.it. JAPANESE CULTURAL INSTITUTE 4 May-12 Oct The Japanese Cultural Institute, in collaboration with its neighbour the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna, presents Boom Beat Bubble, an exhibition of Japanese prints from the 1960s, 1970s and 1980s. There are 54 works by 24 artists in the exhibition whose title refers to the economic “Boom” of the 1960s, followed by the “Beat” era which gained momentum later that decade, and Japan’s speculative economic “Bubble” of the 1980s. Istituto Giapponese di Cultura, Via Antonio Gramsci 74, tel. 063224754, www.jfroma.it. JOHN CABOT UNIVERSITY 14-16 July John Cabot University hosts Carson McCullers in the World, an international conference on the American novelist Carson McCullers from 14-16 July. The conference will feature presentations by McCullers scholars from around the world as well as numerous performances by artists and an art exhibition of work inspired by McCullers’s life and work. The conference will also feature the European premiere of a short film, A Tree. A Rock. A Cloud., based on one of McCullers’s short stories. For more details contact carsonmccullers100@ johncabot.edu or see JCU website, www.johncabot.edu. KEATS-SHELLEY HOUSE The winning entries of the annual schools poetry competition organised by the Keats-Shelley House are published on page 16 of this edition. All topics this year were inspired by poems and themes from John Keats’s first published volume, published 200

Jan Michalak at Polish Institute. Vista del Monastero e Casa dell’Armeno.

years ago, simply titled Poems (1817). The Keats-Shelley House received almost 500 entries, from around 65 schools. The prize ceremony was held on 7 June and prizes were presented by poet and critic Ginger F. Zaimis. Winners received certificates signed by the British ambassador to Italy. POLISH INSTITUTE 8 June-30 Sept The Polish Institute of Rome presents Nella città di Kazimierz Dolny, an exhibition by Jan Michalak, as part of the 15th edition of its annual Corso Polonia cultural festival. Through oil paintings, sculptures and videos, Michalak captures the spirit of the small town in central Poland which has attracted artists, writers and poets since the end of the 18th century. The exhibition is accompanied by a collection of archive photographs until 31 July. Istituto Polacco di Roma, Via Vittoria Colonna 1, tel. 0636000723, www.istitutopolacco.it. SPANISH ACADEMY IN ROME 22 June-1 Sept The 144th anniversary of the Real Academia de España en Roma is celebrated with an exhibition by the academy’s 24 current resident artists and researchers. Entitled Processi 144 the exhibition highlights the academy’s 2016-2017 projects which range from painting and photography to cinema and design. The exhibition can be visited Tues-Sun, from 10.00-18.00. Real Academia de España en Roma, Piazza S. Pietro in Montorio 3 (Gianicolo), www.accademiaspagna.org.

Carson McCullers is the subject of a centenary conference at John Cabot University on 14-16 July.

Processi 144 exhibition at the Spanish Academy in Rome. Proyecto by Los Bravù. July 2017 | Wanted in Rome

TOP 10

BEACHES NEAR ROME For all you beach-lovers here is a selection of resorts within easy reach of Rome. Each one, ordered from north to south, offers either stabilimenti (private beaches with entrance fees and changing facilities and refreshments) or spiaggia libera (free beach with the option to rent a lounge chair and/or umbrella), and all have children’s facilities. We have indicated how to get there by public transport, as all these towns suffer from heavy traffic during the summer. S. Marinella The northern-most beach on our list offers a small strip of white sandy beach with the choice of setting up camp at either the stabilimenti or spiaggia libera. There are two trains per hour leaving from Termini station for S. Marinella station and the journey takes about one hour. Popular with wind-surfers. S. Severa Located about 50 km north of Rome and less than 10 km south of S. Marinella. Take one of the regular Civitavecchia trains from Rome and the beach is a ten-minute walk from the station. There are numerous stabilimenti, restaurants and spaggia libera and it is also known for the Italia Surf Expo which takes place from 21-23 July. Fregene A former chic hotspot of the 1960s and 1970s, Fregene boasts long stretches of sand with both stabilimenti and spiaggia libera. Along the coast there is also a wide selection of family-oriented restaurants and less expensive tavole calde. Rome’s club scene tends to flock to Fregene and nearby Ostia (see below) in the summer months. Although Fregene isn’t the easiest place to reach by public transport, Cotral buses depart from Rome’s Valle Aurelia metro stop (line A) and the journey takes about one hour. Ostia/Cancelli Ostia and the Cancelli (gates) are along the coast nearest Rome. Ostia is loaded with often pricey and trendy stabilimenti, while the Cancelli offer free beaches equipped with restaurants and bathrooms. Public transport takes less than an hour and you can use the same metro/bus tickets for public transport in Rome. Take the 070 express bus from EUR, or the Roma-Lido train from Porta S. Paolo beside the Piramide metro station (line B). To reach the Cancelli get off

Wanted in Rome | July 2017

S. Marinella

at the last stop and take the 07 MARE bus until you reach the gates numbered 1, 2, 3 etc. Anzio/Nettuno These beaches are only ten minutes apart and are easily reached from Rome. One train per hour leaves from Termini station, stopping first at Anzio and then at Nettuno. The journey takes 60-70 minutes and the beaches are about a 10-minute walk from the respective train stations. Anzio has the Blue Flag status given to beaches that meet the international quality standards for cleanliness both on the beach and in the water. Sabaudia Famous for its beauty and spaciousness, this stretch of beach is another Blue Flag area. Although predominantly spiaggia libera, there are a few stabilimenti to choose from. Cotral buses run from Rome’s Laurentina metro stop (line B) to Piazza Oberdan in Sabaudia. From here take the shuttle bus which runs up and down the local coastline. Sabaudia is also known for its Mussolini-era architecture. S. Felice Circeo Nearly 100 km south of Rome are the Blue Flag beaches and crystal clear waters of Circeo. Stabilimenti abound but look for the spiaggia libera nearest the port: it definitely merits the mini-trek. Cotral buses leave for Circeo from the Laurentina metro station in Rome. Get

Sabaudia

off at the last stop and walk for ten minutes until you reach the beach. Terracina Located just 10 km south of Circeo. From Termini station take the hourly regional train for Naples and get off at Monte S. Biagio. From there, take the bus for about 20 minutes until you reach the beach. Terracina has as many spiagge libere as stabilimenti and both are well-kept and clean, making it a popular destination for families. Sperlonga The stabilimenti dominate this gorgeous getaway with picturesque views and Blue Flag status, leaving only narrow strips for the spiaggia libera. Take the regional train headed to Naples from Termini station and get off at Fondi-Sperlonga. Once there, take the Piazzoli bus for 20 minutes to Sperlonga, alternatively take a private taxi but be warned they are far more expensive than the €1.50 bus ticket. Gaeta This Blue Flag area has a quaint mediaeval town to explore and clean beaches. From Termini station take one of the frequent trains headed towards Naples, get off at Formia and take the bus for another 25 minutes until you reach Gaeta. For more information about transportation consult the Cotral and Trenitalia websites www.cotralspa.it, www.trenitalia.it.

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COLUMNs Accommodation vacant in town COSY APARTMENT PIAZZA EPIRO S. GIOVANNI. Beautiful, cosy, quiet, elegant, fully furnished & equipped, renovated, living room, two sunny bedrooms, kitchen, bathroom. 1930s condo+garden. Near FAO, 12 mins walk from Colosseum. €1.500 month. Pics available. Contact airleas.rome@ gmail.com. GARDEN FLAT MONTEVERDE NUOVO. Twin bedroom, living room bathroom kitchen 30 sqm terrace €950. NO FEES,

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tel. 347 / 3608854, pics at https://www.airbnb.it/rooms/46498 - romesweethome1@ gmail.com. GIANICOLO ROOM. Available 2 nice quiet rooms (one big and one medium) in a period building. The apartment is inside a green private park, 10 min by foot to Trastevere, 2 min by foot to Gianicolo view. The apartment is still occupied by 1 other girl so she would prefer another girl. Well connected (Quattro Venti station) and obviously wi-fi, electricity and gas are included. €520 medium room, €560 big one, per month. giulio_piccinini@hotmail.com. Tel. 348 / 7740536. LUXURY VILLA WITH POOLS IN OLGIATA. 450sqm villa in prestigious compound near St. George’s British School, with 1200sqm beautiful grown garden with two magnificent ancient olive trees, big swimmingpool and a spa with spinal waterfall, wide BBQ and dining area and stone oven for pizza by the big portico. Inside, parquet flooring, security alarm system and air conditioning in every room, on three levels. 4 bedrooms, one is on two levels, all with ensuite bathrooms, two with jacuzzi. 6 bathrooms in total. Eat-in fully furnished kitchen, large dining room and lounge, very airy and bright. Maid two rooms apartment with separate access to the house in the

basement, laundry-ironing room, massive study which can be turned into gym, huge luminous double room with space for billiard table and a kitchen or tv area. Plenty of storage space. Spacious garage. Available from September 2017. Contact enrica. arpino@yahoo.com. PIAZZA DI SPAGNA. SPAGNA 60 sqm. Living room, double-bedroom, kitchen, bathroom, view, refurbished, furnished. For rent: Company. Temporary. Studio-home. Contact mv.miceli@gmail.com. TRASTEVERE WITH GARDEN AND FIREPLACE. 180 sqm and 80 sqm garden, high ceilings, fireplace, large living room, furnished, AC, WIFI. Contact sinnesinne@ hotmail.com. VILLA BONELLI. Villa Bonelli €750. Elegant, independent, completely surrounded with greenery, living room and kitchenette, bedroom, bathroom, cupboard, all furnished, central heating, electricity and condominium included. Close to bus and train to the centre (15 min) and the airport (15 min). For information marilu_vitali@yahoo.it or call Silvia at tel. 389 / 2016622.

Accommodation vacant out of town IN VILLA OVERLOOKING LAKE BRACCIANO. Fabulous views, flat w/ big living-dining room, 1 bedroom, full bath, kitchenette, terraces, parking, huge garden, Trevignano Romano, available after 8 Aug, tel 340 / 6165748.

Holiday Accommodation APARTMENT NEAR SIENA (TUSCANY). 80 sqm apartment in Sarteano (Siena) in residential area on the hill (600m) in proximity toll-gate Chiusi/Chianciano of Highway A1, near Siena and Florence. Description: 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, 1 dining room, kitchen + individual garage with individual washing machine. Apartment is total furnished. The price for July 2017 and September 2017 is €450 a week. Contact rincettielisabetta@ yahoo.it.

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July 2017 | Wanted in Rome

Jobs vacant ASSOCIATE PRODUCER WANTED (TEMPORARY). Mother tongue English speaking Associate Producer wanted for a production company in Rome starting 12 June for 4 weeks. Contact brandobqp@gmail.com. AUR SEEKING IN ROME. The American University of Rome is seeking to appoint an individual for the new role of Communications Specialist within the Marketing & Communications department.The Communications Specialist will serve as communications support between the various constituent parts of the university and the Marketing & Communications department. This will involve working directly with the academic and service areas of the university to create compelling narratives around their current and future activities, personnel and students. These narratives will then be crafted for output across multiple channels (website, social media, press etc.). Main Tasks and Responsibilities To act as direct liaison between all individual areas of the university and the Marketing & Communications department. To proactively maintain close relationships with key faculty/programs in order to highlight current and ongoing activities. To create compelling narratives around the activities of the university, it’s staff and faculty and its students. To serve as copy writer/editor for Marketing & Communications output. To maintain and increase the university’s strategic use of social media for brand enhancement and direct recruitment. In partnership with other team members, to maintain and update the university website(s) content. To undertake any other similar duties of this level as required by the department Director and/or the President of the university.Qualifications / Education / Training A Bachelor degree (or equivalent) or at least three years of experience in a similar role. Experience Recent experience of working in a similar communications/writing role Experience of working within education would be beneficial Experience of writing for new media (web & social) Experience of updating websites through a CMS (an understanding of HTML would be beneficial) Experience of using IT packages including Adobe InDesign, Adobe Photoshop word processing, spreadsheets and databasesSkills, Knowledge and Level of Competency Native English speaker level (fluency in Italian also would be viewed favorably) Excellent, demonstrable English writing skills A diplomatic, customer-focused solutions provider focused on outcomes and able to work on own initiative Ability to communicate ideas and narratives effectively with multiple audiences of differing experience Ability to adapt and customize materials for use and re-use across various communications channels Ability to produce clear, accurate, effective outputs to agreed deadlinesPersonal Qualities A team worker with an adaptable and flexible approach to work Creative, imaginative and entrepreneurial thinker Enjoys working collaboratively and seeking collaborative opportunitiesItalian working papers are essential. Term employment contract. Full time position.Please

Wanted in Rome | July 2017

send:- Presentation letter (quote re: Communications Specialist 14/2017), resume and at least 1 reference contact are to be submitted by e-mail to humanresources@aur. edu- Deadline for applications: July 12, 2017AUR is an equal opportunity employer. ENGLISH BUSINESS TRAINER. The Language Grid seeks motivated EMT trainers to work in a business environment. Offering part-time and full-time positions on long term contracts with paid holiday, bonuses & benefits. Opportunity for career development. Apply via email: info@ thelanguagegrid. com with CV, photo & cover letter. info@thelanguagegrid.com. ESTABLISHED ENGLISH SCHOOL SEEKING. Established English School seeking qualified English mother-tongue teachers for children aged 3-12. Must have valid working documents. Please send your CV to sarah.leiwant@gmail.com. HOW TO LIVE & WORK SUCCESSFULLY IN ITALY! Coming in October 2017. For details, please visit http://damienofarrell.com/ events/ or tel. 339 / 3332547. INTERNATIONAL B2B MARKETING & SALES SUPPORT. You can spend your summer teaching, babysitting, or in travel sector. Or, you can come to our offices, learn, train, earn and have fun working with some of the most international high-tech companies in the world; Here Maps, VMware, trivago, and others! Seeking native English, German, Swedish, Czech, French, and others! Support our Clients Sales and marketing teams with prospecting, database enriching and lead qualification. Be part of a team with training and management. Flexible hours. Competitive wages. Send your CV to jobs@3d2b.com. Must have work or student visa for Italy. PART-TIME AND FULL-TIME ENGLISH TEACHER. Adacher Kinderheim is seeking experienced English mother-tongue or bilingual teachers for positions in nursery and kindergarten, full-time and part-time (working days Monday to Friday), starting from September. Please send your CV to liliana_vialesaffi26@libero.it.

POSITIONS VACANT. TEACHERS FOR YEAR 1(KG) AND YEAR 3. Kendale Primary International School seeks English mother tongue teachers for Year 1 (Kg) and Year 3 (2nd Grade) beginning September 2017. Requirements: minimum of 2 years full-time classroom experience and the ability to teach across the curriculum; E.U. documentation; teaching certificate/university degree; written references. Contact info@kendale.it. PROGRAM COORDINATOR, LUC JOHN FELICE ROME CENTER. The John Felice Rome Center (JFRC) of Loyola University Chicago is hiring a Program Coordinator for its firstyear program, Rome Start. This part-time opportunity will begin on 1 August 2107. Since 2011 the JFRC is the home of the Rome Start program: first-year students begin their studies at Loyola University Chicago at the JFRC. The Rome Start Program Coordinator will be an informed, approachable individual, who possesses comprehensive knowledge of both the JFRC and Loyola University Chicago; provide clear leadership, rooted in Jesuit values; represent this unique program both inward and outward. A Bachelor’s Degree is required; Master’s preferred; Proper status to legally work in Italy; Experience in a College or University setting. For further information, and for a full job description, please write to: JFRCRomeStart@gmail.com. SECRETARY POSITION. Secretary for an International school. The ideal candidate must be bilingual (English / Italian) with strong organizational, communication and

interpersonal skills; able to work well under pressure and use technology efficiently and effectively with 3-5 years of office experience in related position. Italian/EU citizen or valid permit of stay required. Please email detailed CV to info@aosr.org. SOCIAL MEDIA CONSULTANTS. Experienced bloggers, experts in Photoshop & InDesign, & Website Designer/Developer wanted for freelance projects. Send résumé to damien@damienofarrell.com. TOTAL EXPAT COACHING. The ultimate coaching program for finding work and building a career in Italy. For info expat@ damienofarrell.com or call (+39) 339 / 3332547. TOUR PROMOTER. Tour Operator is looking for motivated individuals, able to work in a team. We are looking for promoters for Colosseum and Vatican tours. We require fluency in English and Spanish. You’ll be working in a friendly and dynamic atmosphere. Basic sales training provided. Potential for great money. Contact mortisia1974@hotmail.it. TOUR PROMOTER. Tour Operator seeks highly motivated individuals, energetic and able to work independently as well as in a team. We are looking for promoters to sell Colosseum tours. We require fluency in one or more of the following languages: English, German, Spanish, Russian and Chinese. Potential for great money. You’ll be working in an international environment and in a friendly atmosphere. Basic sales training provided. Contact walczakmagda@gmail.com.

lessons ITALIAN LESSONS OR CONVERSATION. Qualified and experienced teacher for Italian lessons and conversations (one to one, group, skype). Emma.livingitalialanguage@ gmail.com, www.livingitalianlanguage.com.

Poetry FEMMINICIDI. Idiots beat, hurt women as if they were plastic dolls. Men love women e soprattutto non le gonfiano. sernicolimarco@ gmail.com. THE MOTOR. The motor of your body is like the motor of a racing car. The difference is which does not switch off.Rev up. sernicolimarco@gmail.com.

Rooms and flat shares BEAUTIFUL, CLOSED- OFF, PRIVATE ROOM IN A RENOVATED APARTMENT. Beautiful, closed- off, private room in a renovated apartment close to Girabaldi’s statue and Gianicolo. A private bathroom with endless hot water. Use of fully equipped kitchen, and two balconies with views. Sunny with great energy.There are two terraces that receive sunlight all day. The room has black- out shutters for a good night’s sleep. It is a quiet

neighborhood and well connected to public transportation. It is easy to reach from Fiumicino on a train that costs only 8 euro. There are many supermarkets, bars, and cafes with friendly Italians who love to host travelers!For info please contactroberta.stellato@hotmail.it.

Schools and colleges ESE SHORT COURSE MUSIC MANAGEMENT INTAKE SEPT 2017. The Professional Programme in Music Management at the European School of Economics has been developed to meet the needs of students who wish to pursue a business and management career in the music industry. A series of lectures, seminars and workshops with both regular and visiting industry specialists equips candidates with essential knowledge and skills needed to excel within each stage of the music management process. The course covers such topics as contract law, intellectual copyright, artist management and the recording industry. Practical, theoretical and strategic expertise will be provided within a challenging environment in order for students to succeed within this fast changing field. After successful completion of the programme, students will be prepared for employment opportunities as: artist manager, tour manager, booking agent, talent agent, entertainment attorney, business manager, music business consultant, record company executive, artist and repertoire representative, artist and repertoire administrator, music publisher, label manager, music supervisor, concert promoter, radio promoter, organization of music events, festivals, music awards, among many others. Internship Programme: Upon successful completion of the programme participants may opt to take a 3-months internship fitted to their profile and career objectives. An assessment with the ESE Placement Officer will determine their eligibility for a placement. Intake Dates: September 2017. Courses Duration: 3-month in class course + minimum 3-month internship (optional); 12 inclass hours per week (Monday-Friday). Language of Instruction: English. Please do not hesitate to contact our centre for further details: ese.roma@uniese. it, admission.rome@ uniese.it, tel. (+39) 0648906653, www. uniese.it, www. europeanschoolofeconomics.com.

GIVE A BOOST TO YOUR CAREER : ESE MASTER PROGRAMMES. The Master Programmes at ESE are designed to develop the personal and professional strengths of the individual student. The entrepreneurial education received at ESE is intended to assist individuals in defining their professional dream and put them on a specially tailored career path. ESE Master ‘s students may specialise in Marketing, Finance or Management and are also given the opportunity to further specialise in their sector of interest through the international internship placement programme. The internship programme and a series of workshops to enhance your professional appeal are an integral part of the course of study and provides each student the opportunity to spend a minimum of 3 months working in the field of the chosen specialisation. This enables students to have excellent opportunities to enter the job market and gain exposure. ESE students have possibility to: study abroad with ESE centres worldwide; specialise in cutting-edge business sectors, such as fashion, film industry, events, music, sport, art, media and human resources among others; complete internships, selecting from more than 1500 leading organisations around the world. Intake Dates: September 2017. Courses Duration: 12 months in class (15-18 hrs per week) + 3-6 months internship. Language of Instruction: English. To apply http://apply.europeanschoolofeconomics.com/Ma/. Please do not hesitate to contact our centre for further details: ese.roma@uniese.it, admission.rome@ uniese.it, tel. 0648906653, www.uniese.it, www.europeanschoolofeconomics.com.

July 2017 | Wanted in Rome

useful

numbers ASSOCIATIONS American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Association of Malaysians in Italy tel. 389 / 1162161, malaysiansinitaly@ gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, fax 065413971 Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490. www.pwarome.org Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 333 / 8466820 Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Women’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 347 / 9313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wnrome-homepage.blogspot.com

Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637, www.saintlouisdefrance.it La Librairie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.librairiefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V. E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484, Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza Navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books – English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com S. Susanna Lending Library Via XX Settembre 15, tel. 064827510 Opening times: Sun 10.00-12.30 Tues 10.00-13.00, Wed 15.00-18.00, Fri 13.00-16.00

The following cinemas show films in English or original language when available – see Wanted in Rome website for details. Casa del Cinema Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Villa Borghese, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it Cinema dei Piccoli Viale della Pineta 15, Villa Borghese, tel. 068553485 Cinema Doria Via Andrea Doria 52, tel. 0639721446. Farnese Persol Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 066864395 Fiamma Multisala Via Bissolati 47, tel. 06485526 Filmstudio Via degli Orti d’Alibert 1/c, tel. 334 / 1780632, www.filmstudioroma.com Greenwich Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Intrastevere Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Lux Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Multisala Barberini Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. 0686391361 Nuovo Olimpia Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. 066861068 Nuovo Sacher Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 Odeon Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361 emergency numbers

books

chiamaroma

The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified.

24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 Anglo American Bookshop Via della Vite 102, tel. 066795222

cinemas

• Ambulance tel. 118 • Carabinieri tel. 112 • Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 • Fire brigade tel. 115 • Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 • Police tel. 113 • Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355 July 2017 | Wanted in Rome

religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b, tel. 0636001881, Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 389 / 9691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 334 / 2934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroloni 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish) Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 333 / 2284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday service 10.30 Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei Santi Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Rome Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Sunday

Wanted in Rome | July 2017

service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Rome Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic), Via del Caravita 7, www. caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00 St Isidore’s College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic) Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 0642903787, Sunday service 10.00 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30,10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 St Susanna Church (Roman Catholic), Via XX Settembre 15, tel. 0642014554, Saturday service 18.00. Sunday service 09.00 and 10.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.info Archè (HIV+ children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/0658204580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it

Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 066861554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 338 / 1675680 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for the disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 0644234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri”, Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022 transport • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel. 06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609 – 065551 – 063570 – 068822 – 064157 – 066645 – 064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it