Wanted in Rome - April 2019 by Wanted in Rome

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THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME

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CONT E

EDITORIALS

8. THE UNIQUE HERITAGE OF HERCULANEUM Margaret Stenhouse

14. FORMULA E RETURNS TO ROME Ed White

ONLINE CLASSIFIEDS As of 1 January 2019 classified advertisements will no longer appear in the magazine but may be published around the clock on our website www.wantedinrome.com. DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: Marco Venturini EDITRICE: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9 PROGETTO GRAFICO E IMPAGINAZIONE: Dali Studio Srl STAMPA: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c. DIFFUSIONE: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425. Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131del 6/3/1985. Finito di stampare il 29/03/2019

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18. TO DO 22. MUSEUMS 26. ART GALLERIES 48. CULTURAL VENUES 52. WANTED IN ROME JUNIOR 54. STREET ART guide 57. PUNTARELLA ROSSA 58. RECIPE 62. USEFUL NUMBERS

Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 11, Numero 4 APRIL 2019

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31. EXHIBITIONS 36. art news 38. CLASSICAL 41. ROCK, pop, JAZZ 42. DANCE 44. OPERA 45. theatre 46. academies 46. sport 47. festivals

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If I Were The Sky Detail of acrylic painting on wood by Laith Zehni, age 16, Grade 11, St Stephen's School, Rome. See page 52 for details.

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ENTS 4

Metrovia in Rome

THE UNIQUE HERITAGE OF HERCULANEUM

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Transport

METROVIA IN ROME Architect Paolo Arsena, the driving force behind the Metrovia project, explains how it could change Rome's public transport NETWORK Marco Venturini What is Metrovia? It’s a solution to provide Rome with an integrated rail system of nine metro lines and one urban railway, making use of the existing infrastructure and absorbing single operations that have already been planned. The three existing metro lines would be joined by six more overground lines, plus a circular railway line using the urban stretches of the existing regional rail network. This will multiply the lines, the intersections and the stations. This would be an advantage for both Romans and for commuters, because Metrovia has been

planned to integrate with the existing regional rail services. How and when did the idea start? I've never been able to stand not being able to move freely around my home town, and I started looking for a solution. I’d had the idea of using stretches of railway for a metro service for some time, but my last visit to Berlin four years ago was inspiring: a metropolis where the underground U-Bahn lines are perfectly integrated with the S-Bahn which, although technically trains, are still efficient overground

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metros. Rome is full of unused railway lines, missing connection nodes, stations that were never built. I became convinced that we could do better. How is your team made up? We are a group of five, very tight knit and complementing one another. Being an architect, I have a more visionary approach, but also tied to practical demands and urban transformation. But I needed the abilities of Corrado Cotignano, a transportation designer with a real passion for mobility in Rome, a city of which he knows every technical and evolutional aspect. It was together with him that the original idea grew, comprehensive but still not perfect, resolving one problem after another until it became the current project. Then we have the communication sector: Florestano Pastore manages our website, while Marina Stoppelli creates, writes and oversees the texts. If Metrovia has had good public visibility, it’s thanks to the ideas and communication strategies of this extraordinary pair. And then there’s Piero Borgia, the creative expert who designed our logo and manages our graphic presence. What is the innovative part of your project? Thinking up the system. Metrovia has invented very little, it’s based on what was already planned and what was already there. This is the secret of its concrete feasibility. But it’s had the strength to conceive a single connected transport system. It’s precisely this overall vision which is missing in Rome. If you don’t have an overall plan, with plans to include interchanges and possible new services then the development is improvised, with a bit here and a bit there. The city looks after one aspect, the railway company another in their own style and then you find that there are two stations 300 metres apart which are not connected. They can’t even manage to create a minimally effective graphical communication. What are the costs and times for the work? We’ve estimated the total cost at around €5 billion. But that covers everything, including jobs already financed and those already planned; the additional cost of implementing the Metrovia plan without these elements is about half of that. You need to bear in mind that the metro C line alone has cost almost €3

Paolo Arsena discusses Metrovia with Rome mayor Virginia Raggi.

billion so far. As for the timing, we estimate that in a normal city – which Rome ought to become – ten years should be enough to complete it all, with the advantage of working in phases. Who do you think ought to finance the work, and who is to be the owner once it’s finished? The state could find the funding for a project that affects the daily life, the image and the economy of its capital city. It could be mixed funds: state, region, private. It also all depends on the management of the service, which might or might not be separate from the ownership of the tracks. The important thing is to get all the stakeholders around a table to define strategies and opportunities, roles and competencies. It won’t be easy, but if there’s a strong and determined lead anything is possible. What has been the reaction of institutions and of the public? I’m afraid you’ve touched a raw nerve there. The huge enthusiasm of the public wasn’t mirrored in the institutions, particularly by the mayor Virginia Raggi and her city council. That’s a pity, because, as we see it, it’s precisely Rome's city council that needs to take the lead, because Rome would be the prime beneficiary of Metrovia. This means the mayor needs to become the driving force behind the whole initiative, aside from any decision-making needed from other interested organisations. And yet we’ve felt a certain inexplicable coolness towards us. Let’s take things in order. Wanted in Rome • April 2019 | 5

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Transport We inserted Metrovia into the sustainable mobility plan (PUMS), along with hundreds of other suggestions from the public, and it was voted the best by a long stretch. This result in particular should have caught the attention of city administration, which claims to be in tune with the views of its residents. But that didn’t happen. First they announced results in a press conference which didn’t correspond to the results published on the PUMS website, without ever mentioning Metrovia. Then they had to issue a correction. But unlike the committees promoting the other proposals, we were never invited to meet either the municipal mobility committee or the mobility councillor Linda Meleo. And then in early November, when we officially presented our MacroAsilo project not one member of the city council we had invited felt the need to turn up. Our only contact with Roma Mobilità [the official urban transport company] came much later, at our insistence and after two or three postponements. What have you done up to now to make your project known, and with what results? To start with, we circulated an explanatory video, which had a reasonable success. Then, once our team settled in, we put a strong effort into our Facebook page, which now has almost 10,000 supporters. Then we created a specific website which crashed a few hours after the launch because of the exceptional level of visits. Over the past two years we’ve continued to work in parallel. On the communications front, with the Facebook page and the blog: in our daily contact with citizens, districts and territories

we’ve received motions and suggestions which have often been integrated into the project. This has certainly helped widen the catchment area of interest in Metrovia. On the other hand, we’ve continued to work on technical solutions, always announcing them and never acting in such a way as to protect our plans. I think this approach has paid off. The first live public meeting last November at MacroAsilo helped create even closer ties with Romans. What’s the main problem with Rome urban transport, in your view? Rome’s a city designed for road traffic. The GRA ring-road, the Olympic bypass, the Muro Torto, the Cristoforo Colombo are wide connecting roads for cars, which attract even more cars. Then there are buses providing a very poor service, partly because they have a lower passenger capacity than the most common public transport systems, partly because they are swamped by other traffic. So you have chaos, pollution, poor service. All the major European (and other) capitals have solved things with metros and overground rail services. In Rome, on the other hand they were taboo for too long because of the underlying archaeology. Today we have less invasive techniques and methods, but creating an underground metro still has very high costs and times. That said, we shouldn’t give up, but we need to work on many fronts. So what’s the solution? We need a coherent 15-year plan with a railway-based system in three sections. On one hand, creating the Metrovia as the principal structure. Then we need to continue work on the underground lines, extending lines A and B and completing line C as far as Piazzale Clodio. And thirdly we need to think of a secondary network of high-speed trams in their own protected tracks: 12 lines of Metrotram (partly using existing lines, partly new) will be enough to create an efficient and widespread network capable of freeing the city centre from cars and providing an alternative to private transport just about everywhere. As long as we carry on with extemporary patches cut off from a master plan, Rome won’t make any progress. For full details see Metrovia website, www.metroviaroma.it.

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History

THE UNIQUE HERITAGE OF HERCULANEUM Herculaneum is less well-known than Pompeii but in many ways it offers a more complete visitor experience Margaret Stenhouse

ne hot summer day in 79 AD, 300 terrified citizens of the seaside town of Herculaneum fled to the harbour in a desperate attempt to escape from the advancing cloud of deadly pyroclastic dust erupting from the nearby volcano, Vesuvius. Families huddled together inside the row of cave-like warehouses carved out of the seafront wall, clutching their children and their valuables, waiting for the imperial Roman fleet to come and rescue them. Unfortunately, they waited in vain. Copies of the scattered bones of these unfortunate people fill the shallow grottoes at the foot of the excavated city, and they make grim viewing. Laid out in the exact position of the originals ("we were very conscious of the fact that these were the remains of actual people and so they were removed out of respect for the dead," explains one of the site custodians), the writhing and contorted skeletons testify to

the suffering of these long-ago victims, who shared the fate of their neighbours at Pompeii. From the archaeological point of view, however, the mass congregation of the doomed townspeople was a bonanza. Many of the dead had grabbed their most precious possessions, like jewellery, hoards of coins and objects in gold and silver, and examples of these are now on show in the recently opened Antiquarium inside the site. The exhibition "SplendOri il lusso negli ornamenti a Ercolano" (Splendid Valuables, the luxury of the ornaments at Herculaneum"), running until the end of September, gives a fascinating glimpse of the refinements to which the wealthy classes were accustomed, as well as the skills of the craftsmen who made them. Prior to the eruption, Herculaneum was a tranquil provincial city, a popular holiday retreat for wealthy Roman citizens, with a prosperous artisan class and a booming

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business in wine production, as proven by the discovery of amphorae stamped with a "Herculaneum Wine" logo. It was smaller, but more fashionable and better organised than Pompeii, with underground sewage pipes instead of open drains (like in Pompeii) and public baths equipped with revolutionary and more efficient heating systems. The exhibition displays a selection of some of the rarest and most precious finds. In their respective display cases we can admire perfectly preserved pieces of jewellery like golden bracelets, a necklace of rock crystal, a pair of gold earrings set with emeralds and pearls, intact but fused by the heat of the holocaust to a handful of bronze coins, and a finely wrought belt of spun gold. Many of these had been worn by the fugitives at the moment of their death. "A Roman matron," explained Herculaneum curator Francesco Sironi, "would never have dreamt of leaving the house without her jewellery." Status in provincial ancient Rome was everything. Roman society was stratified within a distinct class system that was, however, flexible enough to allow an enfranchised slave to make a personal fortune and climb up the social ladder, and a display of luxury was essential for the upwardly mobile. An ancient Roman was able, at first glance, to gauge the social status of any person he met. Lifestyle was defined by adornments like gold and jewels, clothes, hairstyles, the use of rare and exotic perfumes, the number of slaves kept in the household. The rich entertained lavishly, competing with each other to impress their guests with rare dishes and refined tableware of such exquisite craftsmanship that they were often put on display when they were not in use. Despite the open disapproval expressed by the moralists nostalgic for an earlier age of frugality and measure, the desire for beautiful and precious objects pervaded the entire Herculaneum community, with the less wealthy making do with gold and silver placated imitations. The exhibition shows a sample collection of Herculaneum treasures – many on public show for the first time – which give a fascinating glimpse into daily life in the doomed city. Some

of the most striking exhibits include decorative parts of pieces of furniture, such as a horse's head with silver and copper embellishments that was once part of a bed-head, wall sconces, a two metre-high inlaid candleholder and an elegant jug with a winged lion on the handle. Among the kitchen ware there are delicate bronze sieves peppered with tiny holes, a decorated silver ladle and a bronze salver with detachable handles. There are other, more poignant, objects: sets of house keys, baskets and cords, a box of surgical instruments that a doctor had taken with him on his flight, a pile of gemstones from a jeweller's workshop, collections of stylish glass cosmetic ampoules that once graced the Roman lady's dressing room. Francesco Sirano is celebrating his second year as Herculaneum curator and regards the Antiquarium conversion from former offices to an exhibition centre as a first step towards boosting a wider awareness of the site. Last year's visitor figures were just under 550,000 - a fraction of the number of visitors that go to Pompeii. "I was really keen to open the Antiquarium to the public because the park of Herculaneum deserves to have a prestigious exhibition space. Herculaneum has been a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site along with Pompeii ever since 1997 but we have hundreds of archaeological treasures in storage that people can't see. I'm planning to create a permanent museum space here to remedy this situation." The Herculaneum treasure survived because the city was affected by the consequences of the eruption in a different way from Pompeii and this has also contributed to the site's unique fascination. The houses are better preserved than in Pompeii and many of the wooden fixtures like doors, balconies and pieces of furniture have survived, charred but recognisable. Due to the direction of the winds on the first day of the eruption, Pompeii was more severely affected. Many of the roofs collapsed under the weight of the falling ash and pumice stone, crushing all those who had tried to take refuge indoors and destroying most of the contents of the homes. In the case of Wanted in Rome • April 2019 | 9

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History of dark passages to the former stage facing the remains of the cavea, passing fragments of marble columns, traces of the original frescoes overwritten with the signatures of 19th century tourists on the Grand Tour and an inscription dedicated to Herculaneum proconsul Marcus Nonius Balbus, a leading light and a benefactor of the city, who restored the basilica, the town walls and the port.

Decorative remains provide a fascinating glimpse into daily life in the doomed city.

Herculaneum, the incandescent gas that killed the inhabitants evaporated rapidly and the heavy blanket of semi-liquid lava that covered the city carbonised, preserving many items of organic matter. A particularly precious find was the collection of 1,800 scrolls found in the library of the palatial residence known as the Villa of the Papyri, which belonged to Julius Caesar's fatherin-law, Lucius Calpurnius Pisone. The scrolls were preserved because they had been sealed off in a totally dry environment under 30 metres of solidified volcanic mud. Unfortunately, our guide told us, many of the manuscripts were so fragile that they crumbled into dust when they were touched. Those that have survived are in the highly specialised restoration laboratory in the Archeological Museum of Naples. Unfortunately, for security reasons, the Villa dei Papiri is not open to the public. In compensation, Sirano is going ahead with plans to open additional places of interest to visitors. He explains that only about a quarter of the city area has been excavated. Unfortunately, the rest is buried underneath the modern town and is therefore inaccessible. However, by following the tunnels dug out during the earliest archaeological explorations in the 18th century it is possible to reach the Roman amphitheatre which lies 25m under the bustling Via Resina outside the archaeological area. Equipped with miners' helmets and torches we make our way down an uneven flight of steep stone steps and along a sequence

The same personage has an imposing monument in front of the suburban baths overlooking what was the seafront (the sea has now retreated by a few kilometers), where the skeletons of the doomed victims were discovered. This same area yielded another sensational find in 1982 - the Herculaneum boat â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a nine m-long galley with three rowlocks on either side. It was so well preserved that traces of the red paint that decorated the prow were still intact. "We believe that this was one of the rescue ships Pliny the Elder sent from Miseno to pick up the people of Herculaneum. The expedition failed because the seas were too rough for the ships to reach the port," Sirano told us. This particular ship may have tried to dock at all costs and was overturned by the fury of the waves. The skeleton of a Roman officer, identified by his sword engraved with the symbols of command, his dagger and a pouch of gold coins all attached to his belt, was found nearby. "We don't know for sure, of course, but we believe he was probably the vessel's commander." The vessel is kept inside the boat pavilion along with other finds related to the sea and navigation. Entry is included in the Herculaneum entrance ticket. For details tel. 0817324315 or see website, www.ercolano.beniculturali.it. From 2004-2014 the British School at Rome was a partner in the Herculaneum Conservation Project (HCP), a pioneering public-private initiative begun in 2001 to protect, enhance and manage the archaeological site and its relationship to the surrounding area. For details of the project see website www.herculaneum.org.

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Sport

FORMULA E RETURNS TO ROME EUR suburb of Rome hosts the second edition of Formula E on 13 April Ed White

ome has a prestigious history when it comes to drawing crowds to watch the thrills and spills of a race.

Gone might be the days of 300,000 Romans squeezing into the banks of the Circus Maximus to watch and cheer the victors of the famed chariot races. But 2,000 years on, the spirit and entertainment of the battle lives on in the streets of the Eternal City as the capital gears up to host the super-charged speedsters of Formula E for the second consecutive year. The auto-racing series began a love-affair with Rome in 2018 when the inaugural race zoomed

into and around the southern EUR district of the city. One year later it is returning as an evolved race – given the fast-paced development of electric cars and the technology that powers them to great speeds – with bigger sporting names in attendance. Former Ferrari Formula One driver Felipe Massa from Brazil, who came within a whisker of winning the world championship in 2008 only for Britain's Lewis Hamilton to take it away from him on the final corner, has joined the series this year along with fellow former F1 drivers Jean-Eric Vergne from France, Nelson Piquet Jnr from Brazil and Sebastien Buemi from Switzerland.

Formula E returns to EUR for the second consecutive year.

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Sport

Rome's second edition of Formula E will have 22 cars and drivers.

However, Brazilian Felipe Nasr, another former Formula 1 star, has confirmed he will miss the Rome leg of the series to defend his title in the IMSA SportsCar Championship, a car racing serues based in the US and Canada – International Motor Sports Association. For those not in the know, Formula E is a class of motorsport only using electric-powered cars, with a limited maximum power set to 180 kilowatts. The championship is now into its fifth season, having started in Beijing in 2014. Races all take place on temporary city-centre circuits, encapsulating some of the most impressive sites in the world – not least in Rome. This year the feast of racing, which will also include qualifying sessions and a race of electric-powered Jaguars, takes place in Rome on Saturday 13 April with reasonably-priced tickets on sale for the best spots to see the grandstand finish. A place in the raised Tribuna at the start/finish line, with views of the circuit and giant screens playing the television coverage, costs €40 for adults and with a reduced rate of €20 for young adults (16-24) and seniors (upward of 65 years). To guarantee a coveted place overlooking the finish, Tribuna Premium ticket prices are higher – €60 for adults with a reduced rate of €30. Each ticket also includes admittance into the Allianz E-Village, providing an immersive festival of motorsport technology for all the family. However most of the attention will be focused on the track where the drivers will test their

speed through a 2.8-km route around the socalled Circuito Cittadino dell’EUR, around a suburb synonymous for its fascist-era architecture and expansive spaces. The start/finish line will be positioned on Via Cristoforo Colombo near the Obelisco di Marconi with the drivers weaving past Massimiliano Fuksas's fututistic Rome Convention Centre, La Nuvola, before the track splits for the pit lane around the Palazzo dei Congressi built orginally for the 1942 Universal Exposition. The drivers will then make their way around the Obelisco di Marconi with the majestic backdrop of Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana, also known as Colosseo Quadrato, currently home to fashion house Fendi. The course, the second longest in Formula E, was designed to test the drivers’ skills to the maximum and it presents a total of 21 turns. However, the drivers don't have to swerve potholes like the rest of commuters in the capital. The race organisers agreed to fund a carpet of asphalt over Rome’s badly maintained roads. The drivers made a big impression during their time in Italy and a selection of them even met Pope Francis at his Vatican residence prior to racing alongside the Spanish founder and CEO of the series Alejandro Agag. The race itself was an enthralling battle with a thrilling ending as Virgin Racing’s Sam Bird from the UK claimed glory ahead of Brazilian Audi driver Lucas di Grassi – after Switzerland's long-time leader Felix Rosenqvist Wanted in Rome • April 2019 | 15

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Sport

Formula E cars racing down Via Cristoforo Colombo in EUR.

retired with left-rear suspension damage after catching a kerb.

a competitive grid of drivers in the opening races of the series.

However, the results in Rome only played a fraction of a part in the overall standings for the 2017/18 series and Jean-Eric Vergne climbed above di Grassi and Bird to claim the Drivers’ Championship at the end of the calendar for his team Techeetah, based in China.

Portuguese racer Antonio Felix Da Costa, of the BMW I Andretti Motorsport team, came out on top in the opening race of the calendar at the Ad Diriyah E-Prix in Saudi Arabia in December – as Massa’s start to life in the championship ended with a disappointing 17th place finish.

Unfortunately this year Rome does not have any home hopefuls in the race after Luca Filippi lost his seat in the British NIO Formula E Team at the end of last season.

Vergne, the reigning champion, came home second on the podium ahead of Jerome D’Ambrosio of Belgium – who then claimed the second race on the streets of Marrakesh in January.

The Roman leg will be the seventh race of the Formula E series and the standings already make for interesting reading with points spread between the major teams vying for the overall title.

Sam Bird responded to reach the chequered flag first in the third race at Santiago while the fourth went the way of Lucas Di Grassi – both of whom will be seeking success on their return to Rome.

This year’s championship has also seen a number of important technological advancements in the ever-developing sport.

As well as the main action on track, Rome has also secured a leg of the newly-introduced Jaguar I-PACE eTROPHY – the world’s first allelectric mass-produced international race series.

For the first time, all 22 cars on the track have enough energy storage capacity to last the whole race so mid-race car swaps have become a thing of the past. The second generation “Gen 2” cars, which have double the power of the Gen 1 cars used in previous series, can accelerate from 0 to 100km per hour in just 2.8 seconds and reach a top speed of 280km per hour (about 90/100 km per hour slower than Formula 1). This has meant greater speed for the Batmobileesque vehicles which has, in turn, helped create

The ten-race calendar, which is the official support race of Formula E, sees 20 Jaguar I-PACE racing cars with identical specifications going head to head allowing driver skill and team tactics alone to determine who will be crowned champion. The race in Rome will take place before the Formula E race on 13 April. For full details, including the race's route and tickets, see Formula E website www.fiaformulae.com.

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to do ART MUSIC FOOD NATURE CINEMA FAMILY THEATRE

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Mon Tue Wed Thu 1

Early spring means lots of azaleas. Head to the Spanish Steps to see 300 flowering plants.

Immerse yourself in the flowery lingo of Dublin friends Maggie 'n' Brigid at Teatro S. Genesio.

American rockers Low perform their album Double Negative at Auditorium Parco della Musica.

Pick your own tulips at Tulipark at Villa De Sanctis on Via dei Gordiani.

Take a relaxing trip to the waterfall gardens by the lake in EUR.

Catch the Dream exhibit at Chiostro del Bramante before it ends. Ticket discount for WiR cardholders.

Mark Easter Monday with a picnic complete with a cheesy torta pasqualina.

Catch Andy Warhol's paintings at the Vittoriano before the show closes.

Be wowed by the work Take advantage of the Manifesto by Julian special evening opening Rosefeldt at Palazzo of the Galleria Borghese. delle Esposizioni. Book in advance.

If you need a night out Explore the evocative try the karaoke room at world of artists Anne the Very International and Patrick Poirier with Party tonight at Nur Bar. Romamor at Villa Medici.

Join Pope Francis as Embrace the exotic with he leads the ancient a trip to Rome's Butterfly House on Via Appia Via Crucis ceremony at Pignatelli. 21.15 at the Colosseum.

Look out for Liberation Pigneto organises an Pink cyclists in the Gran evening of live music Premio Liberazione race, and dj sets as part of its annual event Pigneto, highlighting the best foreign and Italian women cyclists. Quartiere in Festa.

Enjoy the ancient art Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the last day to submit photos to Otherwise of Galleria Corsini, one of the few museums Bookshop who will turn in Rome to open on a the winning entries into postcards. Monday.

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Fri

Sat

Apr Sun 2019 7

Rain or shine the Appia Antica park opens the doors of the first defensive fort built along the Tevere.

Check out the immersive exhibit Il Classico Si Fa Pop at Crypta Balbi, inspired by souvenir trader Giovanni Trevisan.

Entry to Villa Torlonia is free today as part of the Domenica al Museo initiative.

The Sagra del carciofo romanesco, everyone’s favourite artichoke event, returns to Ladispoli this weekend.

Explore The American University of Rome during its Open Day and enjoy a classic barbecue.

Dedicate today to pizza and La Città della Pizza festival, this year at new venue Ragusa Off.

Check out the winning entries in the World Press Photo show at Pala Expo.

Marvel at the designs and inventions of Leonardo Da Vinci at the Scuderie del Quirinale.

Celebrate Natale di Roma, the capital's 2,772nd birthday, with re-enacted battles in Circus Maximus.

Explore a dark past with a tour of Mussolini's war-time bunkers at Villa Torlonia.

Let curiosity lead you to the Japan Festival where you can taste sushi and take a martial arts lesson.

Heading to the airport? Use your WiR card for a €3 discount on Samarcanda taxi fares.

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guide to

GARDENS AROUND ROME CASTEL GIULIANO One of the best rose gardens in Lazio is located about 7 km from Bracciano north of Rome. The estate gardens surround the large square three-storey farm castle, which stands on a high island of volcanic tufa rock facing Cerveteri and the sea, and they encompass the church of S. Filippo Neri in the grounds. The planting of the garden is the work of Marchesa Umbertina Patrizi and shows a garden style that is rarely found in public parks in Italy. There are more than 1,000 rose bushes, including fine climbers on the castle walls. Only open for group bookings. The dates of this year's Festa delle Rose were not available at the time of going to press. Palazzo Patrizi, Castel Giuliano, tel. 0699802530, www. castel-giuliano.it. FLORACULT The 10th edition of Floracult, the popular floral and amateur gardening festival, takes place in the La Storta area of north Rome from 25-28 April, from 10.00-19.00. Dozens of exhibitors participate in the four-day festival which brings together Italy’s horticultural experts and the latest gardening trends. Ample parking and free shuttle bus from La Storta station. Admission €8; children under 12 free. Casali del Pino, Via Andreassi 30, La Storta, Via Cassia km 15, tel. 345/9356761, www. floracult.com. LA MORTELLA On the island of Ischia off the coast of Naples is an oasis of tropical and Mediterranean plants. The gardens were created in 1958 by Susana Walton, the wife of English composer Sir William Walton. La Mortella is divided into two areas: the valley garden and the hill garden. The valley, designed by celebrated English landscape architect Russell Page, is shady, luxuriant and tropical whilst the hill, designed by Lady Walton, is sunny and Mediterranean. The garden design takes advantage of the sea views and is enriched by fountains. Open until 1 November, on Tues, Thurs, Sat, Sun from 09.00-19.00. La Mortella also organises open-air concerts of classical music in its Greek Theatre which overlooks the sea. Via Francesco Calise 39, Forio d’Ischia (NA), tel. 081986220, www. lamortella.org.

takes place at the Landriana gardens south of Rome from 25-28 April, from 10.00-19.00. The ten-hectare gardens were created in the 1950s by owner Marchesa Lavinia Taverna Gallarati Scotti with the help of Russell Page. Now considered the most important postwar garden in Italy, Landriana contains 32 secret spaces and walks including one planted entirely with Mutabilis roses. Driving from Rome, take Via Pontina or the coastal road to Ardea, or by train on the Rome-Nettuno line to Campo di Carne. Via Campo di Carne 51, Tor S. Lorenzo, Ardea, tel. 0691014140, www.giardinidellalandriana.it.

NINFA This romantic English-style garden spread over eight hectares was built by the Caetani family at the start of the 20th century on the ruins of the mediaeval town of Ninfa. The garden is open, without obligatory booking, from 6 April-3 Nov on the first Saturday and Sunday of the month, on the third Sunday in June, July and August, and the first Sunday in November. This year it is open every Sunday in April and May. However groups (minimum of 30 people) that book a guided tour can visit the gardens all year round. Ninfa is part of the natural monument of the same name established by the

LANDRIANA The Primavera della Landriana, the annual garden fair and horticultural sale,

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Lazio region in 2000. Fondazione Roffredo Caetani Onlus, Via della Fortezza 04010 Sermoneta (Ninfa), www.fondazionecaetani.org. ORTO BOTANICO This botanic garden is located in the heart of Trastevere, behind Palazzo Corsini and across from the Villa Farnesina, on a 12-hectare sloping site filled with palms, yucca and terraces with gravel paths. Established in 1883 after the Corsini family donated it to the Italian government, it is now run by the University of Rome La Sapienza. The gardens host over 3,500 species of plants, including specially-cultivated species in danger of extinction in the wild, and feature a scent-and-touch garden for the visually impaired. Open every day 09.30-18.30, and from 30 Oct-31 Dec 09.30-17.30. Largo Cristina di Svezia 24, Trastevere, tel. 0649917106, sweb01.dbv.uni roma1. i t /or to. PONTIFICAL GARDENS OF CASTEL GANDOLFO The Barberini gardens at Castel Gandolfo are located in the Alban hills about 25 km south-east of the capital, and have spectacular views over Lake Albano. The 30-hectare papal gardens feature ancient Roman ruins dating back to Emperor Domitian as well as a square of holly oaks, paths of roses and aromatic herbs, and a magnolia garden. The 55-hectare site, which includes a 25-hectare Vatican farm, has acted as a papal retreat since the 17th century but in 2014 was opened to the public by Pope Francis for the first time. The 1.5-hour guided tours of the Barberini gardens are held MonSat at 08.30, 10.30 and 11.30. Tours can be booked by emailing visiteguidat egruppi.musei@scv.va, full visiting information on the Vatican Museums website www.mv.vatican.va.

ROSETO COMUNALE Rome’s municipal rose garden on the Aventine hill opens from 21 April until mid-June. There are two separate sections overlooking the Palatine hill and Circo Massimo: the upper garden with its collection of classic “old roses”, and the lower garden featuring the entries of the prestigious annual international rose competition known as the Premio Roma, which this year takes place on 18 May, and a collection of winning roses from previous years. The gardens will be closed on the day of the prize-giving but from the next day onwards the public can admire the winning specimens. The Roseto is home to over 1,000 varieties including a greenblossomed rose from China. Daily 08.30-19.30. Via di Valle Murcia 6, tel. 065746810, rosetoromacapitale@comune.roma.it.

channeled under the town of Tivoli to feed the gardens’ vast range of spectacular fountains, including the celebrated organ fountain. Cascades, pools, water staircases, grottoes and nymphs are revealed at every turn. The villa has a bar and restaurant on the terrace overlooking the gardens and there is a bookshop. Tues-Sun open from 08.30. Mon open from 14.00. Closing time in April is 19.15, May-Sept 19.30. For full visiting times see website. Piazza Trento 5, Tivoli, tel. 199766166, villadestetivoli@teleart.org.

VILLA D’ESTE Built for the Cardinal Ippolito D’Este around 1555, these complex renaissance water gardens in Tivoli are among the most famous in the world. Water from the nearby river Aniene is

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ROME'S MAJOR

MUSEUMS VATICAN MUSEUMS Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, mv.vatican.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums

Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

STATE MUSEUMS Baths of Diocletian

Crypta Balbi

Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed. Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, www.gnam.beniculturali.it. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

MAXXI

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museumof 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini

Borghese Museum

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

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Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.galleriaborghese.it/corsini/en. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed. Via Merulana 248, tel. 0646974832, www.museorientale.it. Interesting national collection of oriental art with some special exhibitions from its own collection and special loans. Tues, Wed, and Fri. 09.00-14.00. Thurs, Sat, Sun. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian on Sun (11.00 and 17.00).

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.galleriabarberini. beniculturali.it. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings

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mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

CITY MUSEUMS

Museo Canonica

Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).

Museo Napoleonico

Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.

STUDY ABROAD

Centrale Montemartini

Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, en.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.

Capitoline Museums

PRIVATE MUSEUMS

OR EARN YOUR Casa di Goethe

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

BACHELOR’S DEGREE

Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, en.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun.

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

Chiostro Del Bramante

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.

IN ROME, ITALY

MACRO

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.en.museomacro.org. The city’s collection of contemporary art, plus temporary exhibition space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed. Also MACRO Testaccio, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Galleria Colonna

MAJOR FIELDS OF STUDY

Museo Barracco

Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange •alternative HUMANISTIC STUDIES entrance.

• BUSINESS ADMINISTRATION Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

De Chirico House Museum •Giorgio INTERNATIONAL AFFAIRS Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechiri-

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A • mainly ARTpre-Roman HISTORY collection of sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and •the CLASSICAL clothes from Middle Ages to theSTUDIES 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

• COMMUNICATIONS

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum • ECONOMICS AND FINANCE dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

• ENGLISH LITERATURE

co.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. •de INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS Guided tours in English, advance booking.

•Keats-Shelley ITALIANHouse STUDIES Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking.

– John Keats, Percy •poets MARKETING

• POLITICAL SCIENCE

• HISTORY

www.johncabot.edu admissions@johncabot.edu

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ROME'S MAJOR

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums

Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

STATE MUSEUMS Baths of Diocletian

Crypta Balbi

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

MAXXI

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museumof 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini

Borghese Museum

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.galleriabarberini. beniculturali.it. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings

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mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

CITY MUSEUMS Centrale Montemartini

Capitoline Museums

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

MACRO

Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Museo Canonica

Museo Napoleonico

PRIVATE MUSEUMS Casa di Goethe

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Chiostro Del Bramante

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Galleria Colonna

Giorgio de Chirico House Museum

Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking.

Keats-Shelley House

Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking.

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ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY

ART GALLERIES

1/9 Unosunove

1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.

A.A.M. Architettura

Fondazione Pastifico Cerere

This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pastificiocerere.com.

Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ffmaam.it.

Fondazione Memmo

Associazione Culturale

Franz Paludetto

Dorothy Circus Gallery

Frutta

Ex Elettrofonica

Gagosian Gallery

Valentina Moncada Gallery holds exhibitions of international artists who are active in the international scene today. Via Margutta 54, tel. 063207956, www.valentinamoncada.com. Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com. This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.

Federica Schiavo Gallery

Hosts large solo and group shows of well-known contemporary artists. Piazza di Montevecchio 16, tel. 0645432028, www.federicaschiavo.com.

Fondazione Giuliani per l’Arte Contemporanea

The Giuliani Foundation for Contemporary Art is a private non-profit foundation that produces three contemporary art exhibitions each year. Via Gustavo Bianchi 1, tel. 0657301091, www.fondazionegiuliani.org.

Fondazione Volume!

The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.

Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www. fondazionememmo.it. Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com. This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via Giovanni Pascoli 21, tel. 06 68210988, www.fruttagallery.com. The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte

Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Galleria Marie-Laure Fleisch

This contemporary art space is dedicated to exhibiting works on paper. Via di Pallacorda 15, tel. 0668891936, www.galleriamlf.com.

Galleria della Tartaruga

Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.

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Galleria Il Segno

Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italian and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.

Galleria Mucciaccia

Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.

Giacomo Guidi Arte contemporanea

Montoro 12

Gallery promoting work by contemporary Italian and international artists. Via di Montoro 12, tel. 0668308500, www.m12gallery.com.

Nomas Foundation

Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.

This contemporary art gallery presents exhibitions from a diverse group of Italian and foreign artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Corso V. Emanuele II 282-284, tel. 0668801038, www.giacomoguidi.it.

Operativa Arte Contemporanea

Galleria Varsi

Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 339 / 7254235, 366 / 3988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.

A small but dynamic gallery near Campo de’ Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di S. Salvatore in Campo 51, tel. 0668309410, www.galleriavarsi.it.

Il Ponte Contemporanea

Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via di Panico 5559, tel. 0668801351, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.

La Nuova Pesa

Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.

Magazzino d’Arte Moderna

Contemporary art galley that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.

Monitor

This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, tel. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.

Monserrato Arte ‘900

This gallery in the Campo de’ Fiori area represents a range of contemporary Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 14, tel. 348/2833034.

A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.

Pian de Giullari

Plus Arte Puls

Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 335 / 7010795, www.plusartepuls.com.

RvB ARTS

Rome-based gallery specialising in affordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www.rvbarts.com.

Sala 1

This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.

S.T. Foto libreria galleria

Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri

The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.

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where to go in Rome

WHAT’S ON

Donne: Corpo e immagine tra simbolo e rivoluzione at Galleria Arte Moderna. Nel parco (detail), 1919, by Amedeo Bocchi. See page 34.

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EXHIBITIONS WORLD PRESS PHOTO 25 April-26 May

Each year an independent jury at the World Press Photo Foundation in Amsterdam selects images for this prestigious recognition of international photojournalism, with the winners of the 62nd World Press Photo Festival being revealed on 11 April. Palazzo delle Esposizioni showcases the work of the 43 nominees, from 25 countries. This year the competition adds a major new award: the World Press Photo Story of the Year, honouring the photographer whose “visual creativity and skills produced a story with excellent editing and sequencing that captures or represents an event or issue of great journalistic importance in 2018.” The three nominees for World Press Photo Story of the Year are: The Lake Chad Crisis by Marco Gualazzini (Italy), shortlisted in the Environment category; The Migrant Caravan by Pieter Ten Hoopen (Netherlands/ Sweden), under Spot News; and Yemen Crisis by Lorenzo Tugnoli (Italy), in General News. Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Via Nazionale 194, tel. 06696271, www. palazzoesposizioni.it.

PAOLO DI PAOLO: MONDO PERDUTO 17 April-23 June

MAXXI presents the photographs of Paolo di Paolo in an exhibition it describes as a “delicate, rigorous and wise recount” of an Italy emerging from the ashes of world war two. Di Paolo published more than 500 photographs in the former Italian weekly news magazine Il Mondo in the 1950s and 1960s, chronicling figures from the worlds of art, culture, fashion and cinema as well as ordinary people. Di Paolo’s photographs, rediscovered after more that 50 years of neglect, include images of Pier Paolo Pasolini at Monte dei Cocci in Rome, Tennesse Williams with his dog, Anna Magnani with her son at Circeo, and Sofia Loren joking with Marcello Mastroianni at Cinecittà studios. Museo nazionale delle arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4A, www.maxxi.art.

PAOLA PIVI: WORLD RECORD 3 April-8 Sept

MAXXI showcases the work of the award-winning Italian multimedia artist Paola Pivi whose oeuvre includes performance, sculpture

World Press Photo 2019 at Palazzo delle Esposizioni. Akashinga – the Brave Ones © Brent Stirton, Getty Images.

Paolo Di Paolo at MAXXI. Anna Magnani nella sua villa a S. Felice Circeo, 1955. © Archivio Paolo Di Paolo / Courtesy Collezione Fotografia MAXXI.

and large-scale installations. She is also known for her photographic representations of animals in performative happenings in sometimes ironic and surprising contexts. Museo nazionale delle arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4A, www.maxxi.art.

ELISABETTA CATALANO 3 April-22 Dec

The MAXXI pays homage to Elisabetta Catalano (1944-2015), a Roman fine-art photographer who specialised in portraits. The exhibition features slides, photos and vintage prints, investigating in particular the relationship between Catalano’s photography and performance art, presenting portraits of artists such as Joseph Beuys, Fabio Mauri, Vettor Pisani and Cesare Tacchi during the preparatory phases of the performative process. Museo nazionale delle arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4A, www.maxxi. art.

OLIMPIA PALLAVICINO: ROMA RICEVUTA 28 March-11 April

Spazio Cerere in the S. Lorenzo district presents Roma Ricevuta, an exhibition of 28 photographs by Olimpia Pallavicino who has a background in stage photography for movie directors. The works Wanted in Rome • April 2019 | 31

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on display, all in black and white, were taken at the first light of dawn in an almost deserted Rome. Spazio Cerere, Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www. pastificiocerere.it.

GIACOMO BALLA 21 March-17 June

An exhibition of paintings by Giacomo Balla, considered Italy’s foremost exponent of Futurism, is hosted at Palazzo Merulana, Rome’s newest art museum. Titled From Abstract Futurism to Iconic Futurism, the show examines Balla’s artistic journey, taking as its starting point the Portrait of Primo Carnera (1933), held in the permanent collection of Palazzo Merulana. Painted on both sides, on one side is represented a typically Futurist subject, Vaprofumo, of 1926. A few years later, in 1933, the artist painted Carnera, in a notably different style, on the other side. Wed-Sun 10.0020.00. Palazzo Merulana, Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it.

PIOTR HANZELEWICZ: 100 BUCKS AND FEW CENTS 16 March-24 April

Rosso20sette arte contemporanea presenta One hundred bucks and few cents, an exhibition by Piotr Hanzelewicz, a Polish artist based in Italy. The show comprises 100 works made with dollar bills and some works on paper made using 100 €1 coins. Rosso20sette arte

contemporanea, Via del Sudario 39, tel. 0664761113, www.rosso27.com.

ROBERT MAPPLETHORPE: L’OBIETTIVO SENSIBILE 15 March-30 June

Galleria Corsini showcases the work of celebrated American photographer Robert Mapplethorpe (1946-1989) on the 30th anniversary of his death. The show comprises 45 photographs by Mapplethorpe who courted much controversy in the US over the homoerotic nature of his work. The Rome exhibition focuses on some of the artist’s less controversial themes such as still lifes, landscapes, classical statues and Renaissance composition. Galleria Corsini, Via della Lungara 10, tel. 0668802323, www. barberinicorsini.org.

LEONARDO DA VINCI: LA SCIENZA PRIMA DELLA SCIENZA 13 March-28 July

The Scuderie del Quirinale holds a major exhibition devoted to Renaissance genius Leonardo da Vinci on the 500th anniversary of his death. Entitled La scienza prima della scienza, the exhibition includes works that offer insights into da Vinci’s technical and scientific advances within the cultural context of his era. The exhibition showcases his designs for flying machines, his use of perspective, his studies for an ideal city, and his masterful mix of classical

Roma Ricevuta by Olimpia Pallavicino at Spazio Cerere.

Giacomo Balla at Palazzo Merulana. Parlano (1934), Guidonia, Fondazione Biagiotti Cigna.

tradition and scientific innovation. Scuderie del Quirinale, Via XXIV Maggio 16, tel. 0292897722, www.scuderiequirinale.it.

VINCENZO SCOLAMIERO 8 March-9 Sept

The Museo Carlo Bilotti in Rome presents Della declinante ombra, an exhibition of paintings and works on paper by Vincenzo Scolamiero. Scolamiero’s work is described as a poetic reflection on nature through “small, anti-heroic remains and finds in a microcosm made of minute things, twigs, dry leaves, tufts of grass, pebbles, rushes, nests and twisted branches.” Museo Carlo Bilotti, Viale Fiorello La Guardia 6, tel. 060608, www. museocarlobilotti.it.

MARCO STRAPPATO: AU-DELÀ 8 March-26 April

The Gallery Apart presents Au-delà, the gallery’s fourth solo exhibition by Marco Strappato whose creative research into landscapes “analysed through multifarious approaches, methodologies and means”, has led him to rediscover his roots as an artist born and raised by the sea. The Gallery Apart, Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www. thegalleryapart.it.

EURYSACES AND ATISTIA 1 March-30 June

A recently-restored funerary relief of Eurysaces the baker and his wife Atistia is on display at the Centrale Montemartini museum in Ostiense. The sculpture, which dates to the first century BC, Wanted in Rome • April 2019 | 33

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Donne: Corpo e immagine tra simbolo e rivoluzione at Galleria Arte Moderna. Nel parco (detail), 1919, by Amedeo Bocchi.

was rediscovered in 1838 at the imposing tomb of Marco Virgilio Eurysaces, a rich freedman of Greek origin. Located in Porta Maggiore, the tomb is one of Rome’s largest and best-preserved freedman funerary monuments. Centrale Montemartini, Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www. centralemontemartini.org.

STILL SHOWING SOLO IL DOVERE, OLTRE IL DOVERE 28 Jan-14 July

This fascinating but hard-hitting exhibition highlights the attitude and reaction of Italian diplomats in the face of the persecution of Italian and European Jews between the years 1938 and 1943. The exhibition is hosted at the Fondazione Museo della Shoah, in the citys’ Jewish Ghetto district, in collaboration with Italy’s ministry of foreign affairs. Through photographs, letters, maps and newspaper articles, the exhibition reconstructs an era, beginning with changes that occurred within the ministry of foreign affairs and in its foreign network following the promulgation of the racial laws in 1938. Much of the material on display comes from the foreign ministry’s diplomatic archives and, for the large part, has never been published until now. SunThurs 10.00-17.00, Fri 10.0013.00. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 29, tel. 0668139598, www. museodellashoah.it.

JULIAN ROSEFELDT: MANIFESTO 26 Feb-22 April

Julian Rosefeldt’s Manifesto video installation at Palazzo delle Esposizioni covers 13 large screens with different stories which occasionally overlap in what is described as a “homage to the moving tradition and literary beauty of 20th-century artist manifestos.” Rosefeldt’s collage of texts draws on the manifestos of movements such as the Futurists and Dadaists, as well as the musings of individual artists, dancers and filmmakers such as Umberto Boccioni, Lucio Fontana, Yvonne Rainer, Kazimir Malevich, André Breton, Sol LeWitt, and John Cage. Palazzo delle Esposizioni,

VASARI PER BINDO ALTOVITI 25 Jan-30 June

A recently rediscovered painting by Giorgio Vasari (1511-1574) is on public display for the first time at Galleria Corsini. Cristo portacroce was painted in 1553 by Vasari, the

Italian painter, architect, writer and historian, best known today for his masterful Lives of the Most Excellent Painters, Sculptors, and Architects. The long-lost painting was rediscovered at an auction in Connecticut after Vasari expert Carlo Falciani recognised it from a drawing in Vasari’s archive. Commissioned by banker and patron of the arts Bindo Altoviti, the painting was subsequently bought by the House of Savoy before disappearing for centuries until its surprise reappearance in the US. Galleria Corsini, Via della Lungara 10, tel.06 68802323, www.barberinicorsini.org.

JOINT IS OUT OF TIME 24 Jan-2 June

The Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna stages Joint is Out of Time, an exhibition described as a “new grafting which redefines the current staging of the collections” and features the works of seven contemporary international artists: Elena Damiani, Fernanda Fragateiro, Francesco Gennari, Roni Horn, Giulio Paolini, Davide Rivalta and Jan Vercruysse. Galleria Nazionale, Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, www.gallerianazionale.com.

DONNE: CORPO E IMMAGINE TRA SIMBOLO E RIVOLUZIONE 24 Jan-13 Oct

Rome’s municipal modern art gallery highlights the evolution of the female image in art from the late 19th century to the present day. The 100 works on display – including paintings, sculpture, photographs and video – reveal

Piotr Hanzelewicz at Rosso20sette with 100 Bucks and Few Cents.

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Ro Co M pe

over 200 works by more than 140 artists whose architectural projects, photographs, site-specific interventions and videos form a street dozens of metres long. MAXXI Museo nazionale delle arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4A, www.maxxi.art.

DENTRO LA STRADA NOVISSIMA 7 Dec-28 April

Robert Mapplethorpe at Galleria Corsini. Self-Portrait, 1988 © Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation. Used with permission.

how women have been portrayed variously as objects of admiration and mystery or as angels and temptresses, until artists caught up with a more modern age in the 1960s. Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna, Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www. galleriaartemodernaroma.it.

ROMA UNIVERSALIS 15 Nov-25 Aug

An exhibition organised by the Colosseum archaeological park hightlights the artistic and architecture legacy of the African Severan dynasty which ruled from 193 to 235 AD. The exhibition examines monuments and art dating from the era described as the “empire’s last period of greatness” before its decline. In addition to the Colosseum, the itinerary includes the Palatine Hill and Roman Forum, with particular emphasis on monuments linked to the emperors. Colosseum/Roman Forum/Palatine Hill.

Curated by the celebrated Italian architect Paolo Portoghesi, this exhibition is dedicated to the architectural history of the 1990s. Taking as its starting point the inaugural international architectural expo at the Venice Biennale, which opened on 27 July 1980, the exhibition presents archive documents, photographs and plans which heralded the greater role of the street in 1990s architecture. Museo nazionale delle arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4A, www.maxxi.art.

LUDWIG POLLAK 5 Dec-5 May

The Jewish Museum of Rome and the Museo di Scultura Antica Giovanni Barracco host a joint exhibition of antiques and archive material relating to the esteemed archaeologist and art dealer. The exhibition marks the 150th anniversary of Pollak’s birth, in Prague in 1868, as well as the 80th

anniversary of Italy’s racial laws, promulgated by the fascist regime to enforce racial discrimination, mainly against Italy’s Jews. Pollak is best remembered for important archaeological finds, including his extraordinary 1906 discovery of the missing Laocoön arm. On 16 October 1943 Pollak and his family were among the 1,023 Jews deported from Rome’s Ghetto district to Auschwitz concentration camp, from which he never returned. Jewish Museum of Rome, Via Catalana (Largo 16 Ottobre 1943). Museo Giovanni Barracco, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 168, www.museobarracco.it.

DREAM: L’ARTE INCONTRA I SOGNI 29 Sept-5 May

The Chiostro del Bramante hosts a site-specific exhibition of dream-themed art works, guiding viewers on a “physical, surreal, mental and dreamlike journey”, and completing the trilogy of shows begun with Love in 2016 and Enjoy last year. The international artists include major names such as Anselm Kiefer, Anish Kapoor and Bill Viola. Chiostro del Bramante, Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www. chiostrodelbramante.it. See other exhibitions on our website www.wantedinrome.com.

Marco Strappato with Au-delà at The Gallery Apart.

THE STREET: WHERE THE WORLD IS MADE 7 Dec-28 April

MAXXI hosts an exhibition highlighting the role of the street as a place of sharing and innovation, a source of inspiration for artists, architects and creatives, in areas ranging from street festivals to improvised cinema and street food. The exhibition features

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ART NEWS SUBURRA MURAL REMOVED IN PIGNETO

An allegorical mural depicting an emaciated she-wolf, the symbol of Rome, starved by the greed of state, church and crime, was removed from Rome’s Pigneto suburb in late February, a year and a half after it appeared near the area’s Metro C station. The largescale Lupa mural, painted in October 2017 by Modena street artist Luca Zamoc, was commissioned by Netflix to promote the launch of its Rome-based crime series Suburra. Zamoc’s landmark mural (pictured above) has been painted over and the wall is now being used to host advertising billboards. According to a contract with Netflix, the mural was to remain for one year, with residents of the building receiving a hosting fee. The organisation that curated the work, MURo Urban Art Museum of Rome, sought to intervene between the various parties to allow the mural to stay however it ultimately failed in its efforts. Zamoc sees a bitter irony in the situation: “The controversy over the wall was always dictated more by the combination of street art with advertising than by the message of the wall itself. But now that the mural is gone everyone complains, because suddenly people realise that a work of art has been removed, not an advertisement.”

STATUE OF NEPTUNE APPEARS ON ROME COAST

A mysterious statue of Neptune became the focus of much attention in Rome’s seaside neighbourhood Ostia after it appeared unexpectedly on the coast in early March. The artist behind the work, which appeared about 100 metres west of Ostia’s pier, is unknown. The majestic statue, complete with trident, was anchored to the rocky shoreline with steel straps and cement, securing it against the waves.

NUOVO ACCADEMIA DI BELLE ARTI LAUNCHES IN ROME

The Milan-based Nuova Accademia di Belle Arti (NABA) is preparing to open a new headquarters in Rome’s Garbatella district, where it will offer students a choice of multimedia arts, visual arts, communication and graphic design, and fashion. Founded in Milan in 1980, NABA is a privately-run university with approximately 3,000 students. Its Rome base will launch on 6 April. www.naba.it.

JERICO MURAL AT MUSEO CASAL DE’ PAZZI

Roman street artist Jerico created a new mural along the exterior walls of Rome’s Pleistocine Museum at Casal de’ Pazzi in the Rebibbia district in midFebruary. Titled Riflessi, the large-scale mural depicts an ancient river that once flowed where the museum stands today. The mural occupies all four walls along Via Egidio Galbani, conjuring up a long-lost tributary of the Aniene river. Opened in 2015, the Museo di Casal de’ Pazzi contains the fossils and remains of prehistoric elephants, rhinos and aurochs, as well as traces of the first men who hunted these ancient creatures. The museum’s origins date back to 1981 when construction workers discovered an elephant tusk on the site. Further excavations revealed that there had been a river in the area about 200,000 years ago, and archaeologists unearthed some 2,000 fossils and flints, which are now on display. Andy Devane

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Antonio Pappano conducts Bruckner’s monumental 8th symphony at S. Cecilia.

January, music by Chopin is compared with that of four other composers Rachmaninov, Skriabin, Liszt and on 28 April with Schumann. Sala Casella, Via Flaminia 118, www. filarmonicaromana.org.

ACCADEMIA S. CECILIA BEETHOVEN’S 9TH 4-6 April

Kirill Petrenko conducts Beethoven’s 9th symphony with the S. Cecilia orchestra and chorus. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

CLASSICAL RoME

to modern composers Sculthorpe, Ferré, Tavener, Pärt and Sivilotti. Teatro Argentina, Largo Argentina, www.filarmonicaromana.org.

ACCADEMIA FILARMONICA ROMANA ASSOLI GIOVANI TALENTI IN CONCERTO 6 April

As the heading suggests this is a series of concerts to promote young Italian artists, winners of the scholarships promoted by the Società Umanitaria di Milano. On 6 April there is the last of the series dedicated to pianist Federico Gad Crema who plays music by Chopin and Debussy. Sala Casella, Via Flaminia 118, www. filarmonicaromana.org.

ENRICO DINDO SIMONE RUBINO 4 April

Enrico Dindo on the cello and Simone Rubino percussion play music by Bach and Piazzolla, as well as the premieres of two compositions by Carlo Boccadoro and Stefano Molinelli. Teatro Argentina, Largo Argentina, www. filarmonicaromana.org.

MARIO BRUNELLO WITH FRIULI VENEZIA CHORUS 11 April

In this concert the cello and the voices of the Friuli Venezia Chorus combine in a programme which starts with J.S. Bach and then moves

12 April

This annual series of concerts is dedicated to young Italian soloists and contemporary composers. On 12 April it is the turn of clarinetist Alice Cortegiani and accordion player Samuele Telari. Sala Casella, Via Flaminia 118, www. filarmonicaromana.org.

LA LIBERTA RIGOROSA 14 April

The Filarmonica is presenting this unusual series of lessons for the first time, on the theme of composition and improvisation in the work of several key composers, Mozart and Beethoven, Chopin and Liszt and Ravel, Bartok, Gershwin and Duke Ellington. The last event, on 14 April, examines the links between 20thcentury American and European music. Sala Casella, Via Flaminia 118, www.filarmonicaromana.org.

CHOPIN AND LISZT 28 April

Pianists completing their studies at the S. Cecilia conservatory perform at the Accademia Filarmonica Romana in their annual concert. On 28 April it is the turn of Francesco Granata piano. In this series, which started in

ANDREA OLIVA, ANDREA ZUCCO, ENRICO PACE 10 April

Oliva on the flute, Zucco bassoon and Pace piano play music by SaintSaens, Prokofiev, Elgar, Poulenc and Beethoven. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Sala Sinopoli, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

STRAVINSKY’S FIREBIRD 11-13 April

Conducted by Stanislav Kochanovsky with the orchestra and chorus of S. Cecilia. The programme also includes Benedetto Lupo, piano, playing Scriabin’s only concerto composed in 1896 and Lexikon III composed by Ivan Fedele in 2015. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

BEETHOVEN’S 5th SYMPHONY 14 April

Joshua Weilerstein conducts the Lausanne chamber orchestra playing Beethoven’s 5th symphony, Mozart’s piano concerto 23 with soloist Lucas Debarge, and Jörg Widmann’s Con brio (2008). Widmann, who is also a clarinetist is one of the most performed contemporary composers after Avro Pärt and John Williams. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

TOM KOOPMAN CONDUCTS MOZART 18-20 April

Tom Koopman conducts the orchestra

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and chorus of S. Cecilia playing Mozart’s Great Mass and the Jupiter symphony. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium. com.

ANTONIO PAPPANO CONDUCTS BRUCKNER 26-28 April

The music director of S. Cecilia, Antonio Pappano, conducts the S. Cecilia orchestra and chorus playing Bruckner’s 8th symphony, one of his most intense and dark. This is the composer’s last complete symphony, which he dedicated to the emperor Franz Joseph of Austria. He considered its finale one of the most significant moments of his life. The last time Pappano conducted this symphony at S. Cecilia was to mark the 40th anniversary of Amnesty International Italia in 2015. Pappano said then that listening to Bruckner’s 8th symphony was almost like a religious experience and that it was a symphony he had always dreamt of conducting. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www. auditorium.com.

ISTITUZIONE UNIVERSITARIO DEI CONCERTI ALEXANDER ROMANOVSKY ABSOLUTE CHOPIN 6 April

As the heading would suggests pianist Alexander Romanovsky plays an all Chopin programme of nocturnes, mazurkas and studies. Romanovsky, who lives in Italy, won the Busoni international competition in 2001. One of the more unusual concerts he gave was during the 2018 Livorno music festival at the museum of natural history surrounded by the skeleton of a blue whale and other marine animals. Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna Università la Sapienza, Piazza Aldo Moro, www.concertiiuc.it.

HERBERT SCHUCH 9 April

Romanian-born pianist Herbert Schuch plays music by Ligeti and Beethoven. Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna Università la Sapienza, Piazza Aldo Moro, www.concertiiuc.it.

QUARTETTO PROMETEO 16 April

The quartet plays music by Berg and Schubert, as well as the premiere of Matteo D’Amico’s Scène d’Hérodiade. Many of D’Amico’s works are influenced by poets, including Torquato Tasso, Christopher Marlow, Mallarme and W. H. Auden. He also composes music for dance and is the head of composition at S. Cecilia’s conservatory. Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna Università la Sapienza, Piazza Aldo Moro, www.concertiiuc.it.

OTHER VENUES Some of Rome’s English-speaking churches, such as St Paul’s within the Walls, All Saints’ Anglican church, Ponte S. Angelo Methodist church and the Oratorio Caravita also have concerts and opera recitals. S. Agnese in Agone in Piazza Navona and Palazzo Doria Pamphilj are two other places that often offer concerts. The Oratorio Gonfalone has concerts every Thursday evening in the beautiful little church in Via del Gonfalone 32, just off Via Giulia.

Alexander Romanovsky plays music by Chopin at the IUC.

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ANZAC DAY 2019 New Zealanders and Australians in Rome will commemorate ANZAC Day with a memorial service. The service will take place at the ROME WAR CEMETERY VIA NICOLA ZABAGLIA (PIRAMIDE) on Thursday 25 April at 9.00 a.m. An informal reception will follow the service at the New Zealand Embassy Via Clitunno 44, Rome 00198 For security purposes an RSVP is mandatory for those wishing to attend the reception. EVERYONE IS WELCOME RSVP: rome@nzembassy.it or telephone 06 853 7501

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Tears for Fears concert at Auditorium Parco della Musica.

to promote its greatest hits album Rule The World. Formed in 1981 by Roland Orzabal and Curt Smith, the group achieved huge success in the 1980s with hits such as Shout, Sowing The Seeds of Love and Everybody Wants to Rule The World. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via Pietro de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

ROCK, POP, JAZz LOW

8 April

securing 12 number one singles and eight number one albums in the UK, with hits such as Could It Be Magic and Relight My Fire. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via Pietro de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

The Auditorium Parco della Musica hosts a concert by Low, an American indie rock group formed in Minnesota in 1993. The band is known for its impressive live performances and music characterised by slow tempos and minimalist arrangements. Auditorium 4 July Parco della Musica, Via Pietro de American rock band Toto celebrates 40 Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com. years with a concert at the Auditorium Parco della Musica on 4 July, as part of the 2019 line-up of the Roma Summer Fest. Formed in 1977 in Los Angeles, 27-28 June Kraftwerk fans in Rome can look Toto achieved massive success with forward to two concerts by the hits such as Hold the Line, Rosanna, and pioneering German electronic Africa. Over the last four decades, the musicians this summer. The group has released 17 studio albums, innovative German group will and has sold over 40 million records perform two nights in a row for Rock worldwide. Auditorium Parco della in Roma in the ancient setting of Musica, Via Pietro de Coubertin 30, the Teatro Romano at Ostia Antica. www.auditorium.com. Since forming in Düsseldorf in 1970, Kraftwerk has had a profound influence on a new generation of 9 July musicians, particularly those working Tears for Fears will perform in in electronic music. The band’s Rome’s Auditorium Parco della signature sound combines repetitive Musica on 9 July as part of the rhythms with catchy melodies and Roma Summer Fest programme. simplified lyrics. For tickets see The English band, whose sound is TicketOne website, www.ticketone. classified variously as new wave, pop com. Teatro Romano di Ostia Antica. rock and synth rock, comes to Rome

TOTO

KRAFTWERK

TEARS FOR FEARS

TAKE THAT 29 June

BEN HARPER 13 July

The award-winning American singer-songwriter and musician Ben Harper returns to Rome’s Auditorium Parco della Musica on 13 July. The open-air concert, part of the Roma Summer Fest programme, will see Harper accompanied by his band The Innocent Criminals. Harper’s musical style involves an eclectic mix of blues, folk, soul, reggae and rock music. He is known for his energetic live shows as well as his hits such as Diamonds on the Inside and Waiting on an Angel. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via Pietro de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

MARK KNOPFLER 20-21 July

Mark Knopfler will perform two outdoor concerts at the Baths of Caracalla as part of the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma summer programme, on 20 and 21 July. The British guitarist and singer-songwriter is best known as the frontman and driving force behind the rock band Dire Straits, which he co-founded in 1977. When the group disbanded in 1995, Knopfler embarked on a solo career. Knopfler and Dire Straits have sold in excess of 120 million albums to date. For ticket details see opera house website, www.operaroma.it.

Kraftwerk perform two concerts at Ostia Antica for Rock in Roma this summer.

Tickets are on sale for a concert by Take That at the Auditorium Parco della Musica on 29 June, to celebrate the band’s 30th anniversary tour. The concert, part of the Roma Summer Fest programme, will feature three of the British band’s original members: Gary Barlow, Howard Donald and Mark Owen. The group was phenomenally successful in the 1990s,

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DANCE

Italy’s hip hop dancers compete for a place in the finals in the US.

MILAN TEATRO ALLA SCALA WOOLF WORKS 7-20 April

choreography by Benjamin Millepied, Glass pieces choreography by Jerome Robbins and Nuit Blanche with choreography by Sebastien Bertaud. This is a new Teatro dell' Opera di Roma production. The director of the theatre's ballet school, Eleonora Abbagnato, has recently been confirmed for another three years in the post. Teatro dell' Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it.

This is the Italian premiere of the magnificently lyrical work by Wayne McGregor with music by Max Richter based on three works by Virginia Wool, Mrs Dalloway (I now, I then), Orlando (Becomings) and The Waves (Tuesday). It will be danced by Alessandra Ferri and Federico Bonelli on 7,10,12,14 and 20 April. It was McGregor's first full-length work for the Royal Ballet Covent Garden, premiered in 2015. 3-9 May Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici The choreography is by Angelin Preljocaj with the ballet corp of the 2, www.teatroallascala.org Teatro dell'Opera di Roma. The music is a recorded version of parts of Mahler's nine symphonies with extra music by 79D. Preljocaj's 2008 choreography is not a sugary Walt Disney-like version of the story but a rather tough and sometimes violent and shocking view 29 March-3 April Choreographies to three Philip of the adult world, but one where love Glass pieces, Hearts and Arrows with wins out in the end. Teatro dell' Opera

BLANCHE NEIGE ANGELIN PRELJOKAJ

ROME

TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA PHILIP GLASS NIGHT

di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it.

TEATRO OLIMPICO HIP HOP CHAMPIONSHIPS 27 April

The Italian hip hop championships select a street dancer crew to compete in the world championships in the United States in August, organised by America's competitive television dance series Best Dance Crew. Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, teatroolimpico.it.

TEATRO VASCELLO ALETHÈS 26 April

What is true (Alethès), what form does truth take in contemporary life and how do we identify it? These are the questions behind the choreography of Luca Della Corte and Michele Pogliani and the production of the MP3project. Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it.

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RO MA

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opera MILAN TEATRO ALLA SCALA LA CENERENTOLA BY ROSSINI 10 Feb-5 April

Ottavio Dantone conducts the 1973 production by Jean-Pierre Ponnelle. The young French mezzo-soprano Marianne Crebassa makes her Rossini debut at La Scala in the role of Angelina. Her first solo album Oh Boy, in which she explores trouser roles in Mozart and French operas (arias for young men – once sung by castrati – and now by women) has received considerable acclaim. She sang the part of Angelina at the Paris Opera at the end of 2018. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

MANON LESCAUT BY PUCCINI 31 March-27 April

Riccardo Chailly conducts this new La Scala production of Puccini’s opera, first staged in 1893 in Turin, with David Pountney as director. Pountney, who is known as a director of little-known operas or new versions of classical repertoire, has not directed Manon Lescaut before. Maria José Siri sings the part of Manon and Marcelo Alvarez that of Des Grieux for most of the performances. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.

ARIADNE AUF NAXOS BY RICHARD STRAUSS 23 April- 22 June

Frederic Wake Walker is the young British director of this Strauss opera conducted by the Strauss expert Franz Wesler-Möst who will return later in the year (September) to conduct another Strauss opera Die ägyptische Helena at La Scala. The production was performed in Cleveland earlier this year, also with

Tamara Wilson from the Met Opera who sang the role of Ariadne for the first time and who is relatively new to the Milan opera. She sings the part of Ariadne on 19, 22 June, after performances in April and May by Kassimira Stoyanova, who also sang the role for the first time at the end of last year in Dresden. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.

ROME TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA THE MERRY WIDOW 14-20 April

Franz Lehar’s opera is conducted by Constantin Trinks and directed by Damiano Michieletto. It is a new production in conjunction with La Fenice in Venice and is also a Fabbrica project for young opera singers training with the Rome opera house. Anthony MichaelsMoore takes the lead role of Baron Mirko Zeta with Adriana Ferfecka as Valencienne and Naja Machantaf as Hanna. Michaels-Moore, baritone, is the first British singer to have won the Luciano Paverotti international voice competition. The last time he sang at Rome’s opera house was in Benjamin Britten’s Curlew River in 2013. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www. operaroma.it.

cantanti di formazione belcantistica: Arianna Vendittelli, Marina De Liso, Delphine Galou, Monica Piccinini, Francesca Aspromonte, Luigi De Donato e Biagio Pizzuti. La regia spetterà a Gabriele Vacis con le scene, i costumi e le luci realizzate e curate da Roberto Tarasco. Serse fu dato la prima volta a Londra nel King’s Theatre di Haymarket il 15 aprile 1738. Non ebbe il successo sperato, nonostante il ruolo del protagonista fosse sostenuto da Caffarelli, uno dei castrati soprani più bravi e più famosi dell’epoca. Al pubblico inglese Serse apparve come un’opera che proponeva ben poche novità e che alternava a scene e personaggi seri situazioni e ruoli comici, secondo le consuetudini dell’opera seicentesca diventate ormai inaccettabili. Non è un caso che da lì a breve Händel abbandonerà l’opera italiana per dedicarsi esclusivamente agli oratori, cantati in inglese e dove il ruolo principale lo assumerà il coro. In Serse Händel regala tuttavia tante arie a ciascun cantante (in genere sono pezzi brevi e con pochi “da capo”) ma le melodie più belle e affascinanti le riserva a Caffarelli, che interpreta Serse; tra queste è da ricordare “Ombra mai fu” diventata subito celeberrima e meglio conosciuta come “il Largo di Händel”. www.teatrocomunalemodena.it www.teatripiacenza.it

OPERA NOTES

BY PAOLO DI NICOLA

For opera specialists there are two unusual operas, Serse by Handel and Dorilla in Tempe by Vivaldi (and others), which will be performed in Modena and at La Fenice in Venice in April and May.

Kassimira Stoyanova, in a recent production of Ariadne auf Naxos in Dresden, will sing in the La Scala production of Strauss’ opera in May.

Serse di George Friedrich Händel arriva a Modena nel Teatro Comunale (4 e 7 aprile) e a Piacenza nel Teatro Municipale (12 e 14 aprile) dopo aver debuttato alla fine di marzo a Reggio Emilia. Sarà diretto e suonato da specialisti della musica antica: Ottavio Dantone con l’Accademia Bizantina, l’orchestra da lui fondata. Così come i ruoli principali saranno sostenuti da

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Nel cartellone della stagione 2018/19 del Teatro La Fenice compare Dorilla in Tempe di Antonio Vivaldi. Sarà proposta per cinque recite nel Teatro Malibran, sempre a Venezia, dal 23 aprile 19 al 5 maggio. Per questo allestimento saranno impegnati il regista Fabio Ceresa e il direttore e concertatore Diego Fasolis, esperto conoscitore e studioso di musica antica e barocca, in particolare di Antonio Vivaldi. Il ruolo della protagonista sarà sostenuto da Manuela Custer, che canterà insieme con Lucia Cirillo, Riccardo Novaro,

Véronique Valdès, Valeria Girardello e Rosa Bove. Dorilla in Tempe è un melodramma eroico-pastorale in tre atti su testo di Antonio Maria Lucchini, autore di molti libretti per i teatri veneziani. Fu eseguita per la prima volta il 9 novembre 1726 nel Teatro S. Angelo di Venezia; racconta di un dio che, trasformato in un pastore della Tessaglia, s’innamora della bella Dorilla che il re Admeto, suo padre, dovrebbe sacrificare a un mostro. A questa versione di Dorilla in Tempe ne seguirono altre, fino a quella datata intorno al 1734, che si

theatre

presenta come un “pastiche”: una partitura cioè composta con musiche, oltre che di Vivaldi, anche di altri autori come Hasse, Giacomelli, Sarro e Leo. Ed è in questa versione, l’unica sopravvissuta, che Dorilla in Tempe sarà data al Teatro Malibran. Nel 2017 Diego Fasolis ne propose un’incisione in CD, con Romina Basso protagonista e con I Barocchisti e il Coro della RSI: rientra nel progetto di pubblicare tutte le opere di Antonio Vivaldi conservate nella Biblioteca Nazionale di Torino. www.teatrolafenice.it

Teatro India presents Tango Glaciale Reloaded.

ROME’S COMEDY CLUB 26 APRIL

MAGGIE ‘N’ BRIGID 2-7 April

Wonderwall Entertainment presents the world premiere production of an original English-language play, written by Shane Harnett and directed by Michael Fitzpatrick. Dubliners Maggie and Brigid rekindle their friendship after decades by travelling to Rome to see the pope. The two women set off on a road trip that defines who they are, strengthening a friendship forged by tenderness, venom and humour. 2-5 April 20.30. 6-7 April 17.30. To book tickets contact wonderwallenter@gmail.com or tel. 3478248661. Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1 (Piazza Mazzini).

LA DIVINA COMMEDIA OPERA MUSICAL 2-7 April

This successful production, directed by Andrea Ortis, is the first musical

based on the poetry of Dante Alighieri. Accompanied by 24 singer-actors and acrobats-dancers, the audience is taken on a journey through Inferno, Purgatorio and Paradiso, involving spectators in a continuous succession of immersive scenography, acrobatic choreography, animated 3D video projections, special effects and music. Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231, www.teatrobrancaccio.it.

TEATRO INDIA 5-14 April

Mario Martone directs Tango Glaciale Reloaded, 35 years after he and his avant-garde troupe Falso Movimento took the Neapolitan theatre world by storm with Tango Glaciale. The experimental production features an eclectic combination of theatre and dance, rock and pop music, peppered with cult references. In Italian. Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman, tel. 0687752210, www.teatrodiroma.net.

Rome’s Comedy Club holds an evening of stand-up comedy in English on the last Friday of every month at a venue in the Ostiense district. The €15 entrance fee includes aperitivo, a beer or glass of wine. Doors open at 20.00, with the show starting at 21.30. Bookings (by text only, no calls) via Whatsapp 3397514140 or email makairoma@ gmail.com. Makai Surf and Tiki bar, Via dei Magazzini Generali, 4/a/b/c.

GIUDIZIO UNIVERSALE: MICHELANGELO AND THE SECRETS OF THE SISTINE CHAPEL

Billed as an “extraordinary journey”, this cutting-edge production immerses the audience in the world of Michelangelo’s masterpiece in the Sistine Chapel, through a mixture of live performances and spectacular stage effects. The production involves the history of art narrated through a mix of technology and live entertainment. Created in consultation with the Vatican Museums and with music by Sting, the 60-minute show features immersive 270-degree 3D projections and is in both Italian and English. Auditorium della Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4, www.giudiziouniversale.com. Wanted in Rome • April 2019 | 45

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Romamor by Anne and Patrick Poirier at Villa Medici.

German artist. The material, discovered in antiques fairs and curiosity shops, relates to Beuy’s exhibitions and happenings in Capri, Naples, Foggia, Rome, Venice and Bolognano. Casa di Goethe, Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www.casadigoethe.it.

FRENCH ACADEMY 1 March-12 May

ACADEMIES AMERICAN ACADEMY IN ROME 18 April

Water and Culture: A View from Rome is the title of a symposium at the American Academy in Rome in collaboration with the Enel Foundation. Focusing on Rome and central Italy, panellists will touch on the importance of water in history: the role of the law in determining who has access to water, the use of water as a power source and a sign of power, the importance of infrastructure, the problem of water disasters, and the intersection of water control, economics and shaping society. Speakers and topics include Gregory Aldrete – Floods in Ancient Rome: The Eternal City Goes Under; Cynthia Bannon – Roman Water Law: Aims and Assessments; Kathryn L.

Gleason – Opulent Waters: Landscape Architectural Displays of Water Wealth in Ancient Rome; Katherine Rinne – Trickle down theory in Late-Renaissance and Baroque Rome; Paolo Squatriti – Water Management in Mediaeval Italy; Frank Snowden – Fascism and the Pontine Marshes. The event will be held in English at Villa Aurelia from 10.30 until 20.00. American Academy in Rome, tel. 0658461, www.aarome.org.

CASA DI GOETHE 9 NOV-28 APRIL

The Casa di Goethe examines the travels in Italy of Joseph Beuys (19211986) through a series of “objects, posters, postcards, photographs, invitations, memories and signs of affection” relating to the mutifaceted

The French Academy of Rome at Villa Medici presents Romamor, an exhibition dedicated to the work of French art duo Anne and Patrick Poirier, the husband and wife who have worked together for more than four decades. The exhibition will feature the sculptors’ “mysterious cities” and reconstructed ruins, both “archaeological or imaginary,” displayed in various areas of Villa Medici. The artists have a long association with Rome: they were fellows of the French Academy from 1969 to 1971, during the directorship of Balthus. French Academy in Rome - Villa Medici, Viale della Trinità dei Monti 1, tel. 0667611, www. villamedici.it.

JAPANESE CULTURAL INSTITUTE 2-30 APRIL

Guided tours of the Japanese Cultural Institute’s gardens are open to small groups of people during the mornings and afternoons on Tues, Thurs, Fri, and on Sat mornings. The visits are free and bookings must be reserved in advance, tel. 0694844655. Istituto Giapponese di Cultura, Via Antonio Gramsci 74, www.jfroma.it.

however will be rewarded with a medal, a goody bag and a foil wrap to stay warm. In addition to the main event there is the non-competitive “Stracittadina” 5-km fun run in the Circus Maximus area. For full details see marathon website, www.maratonadiroma.it.

SPORT ROME MARATHON 7 April

The 25th edition of the 42-km Maratona di Roma, which begins and ends at the Colosseum, takes place on Sunday 7 April. The time limit for crossing the finish line is seven hours, and anyone who fails to reach the halfway mark within three and a half hours will be required to give up. Those who last the distance Formula E returns to EUR.

FORMULA E 13 April

Rome hosts the second edition of the Formula E electric car race on 13 April, with 22 battery-powered electric cars battling it out on the streets of the city’s EUR suburb. Rome mayor Virginia Raggi has announced that the race area will be open for free on 12 April to allow the public to observe the preparations and enjoy the attractions at the E-Village. Tickets for the race on 13 April range from €60 – for a premium adult seat – down to €1 for children aged 5-15, while there is no charge for kids under four years of age. (See feature article page 14).

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FESTIVALS OUT OF TOWN BRESCIA AND BERGAMO

Jacques Audiard is guest of honour at this year’s Rendez-vous festival.

15 April-10 June

FESTIVALS RENDEZ-VOUS: NEW FRENCH CINEMA 3-8 April

The ninth edition of Rendez-vous, the festival dedicated to new French cinema, takes place in Rome as well as Bologna, Florence, Naples, Milan, Palermo and Turin. The weeklong festival, whose programme ranges from blockbuster movies to independent and short films, showcases the best of contemporary French cinema. An initiative of the French embassy to Italy, the Rome

segment of the festival is being held at the Nuovo Sacher, with parallel events at the Casa del Cinema and the Institut Français Centre Saint-Louis. The festival’s guest of honour is the award-winning French director Jacques Audiard who will present his movie The Sisters Brothers at the Nuovo Sacher, as part of a series dedicated to his work. All films will be shown in their original French version with Italian subtitles. For full programme see Institut Français website, www. institutfrancais.it.

The Brescia and Bergamo international piano festival, now in its 56th year, opens the festival season in Italy. This year the theme is the music of Schumman and Brahms, under the heading Musica Velata. Schumann used the term to describe Brahms’ piano playing, saying that he made the piano sound like an orchestra, with sounds that were sometimes exhultant, sometimes full of happiness, sometimes clouded or tinged with sadness. The festival music follows the friendship of the two composers, sometimes with evenings dedicated to Brahms or Schumann, sometimes to both and at other times with music by other composers such as Beethoven. Concerts that start in one city are then repeated in the other a few days later. Another theme of the festival is to mix famous pianists with those who are just beginning to make a career for themselves. George Li performs on 23 April, Grigory Sokolov on 26 April, Francesco Piedmontese on 30 April. www.festivalpianistico.it.

The 2019 Bergamo and Brescia piano festival traces the influential friendship of Schumann and Brahms.

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lassical lassical

The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a definitive list of all the music that is available in the city. The following is a list of the main musical There are also concerts in many of the associations in Rome but it is not a definitive churches and sometimes in the museums. list of all the music that is available in the city. There are also concerts in many of the Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della churches and sometimes in the museums. Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Auditorium Conciliazione, ViaP. de della Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Accademia Filarmonica Teatro Auditorium Parco della Romana, Musica, Viale P. de Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro starts on 15 Oct Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season concerts Parco della Musica. The startsat onAuditorium 15 Oct newAccademia season startsS. on 5Cecilia, Oct www.santacecilia.it. All concerts Universitaria at Auditorium Parco della Musica. Istituzione dei Concerti, AulaThe newUniversità season starts on 5 Oct www.concertiiuc.it Magna, la Sapienza,

Istituzione Universitaria deiGonfalone Concerti,32a, Aula Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it www.oratoriogonfalone.com Oratorio delMethodist Gonfalone, Via delPiazza Gonfalone 32a, RomeConcerts, Church, Ponte www.oratoriogonfalone.com S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it RomeConcerts, Piazza Ponte Roma Sinfonietta, Methodist AuditoriumChurch, Ennio Morricone, S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Roma Auditorium Roma Tre Sinfonietta, Orchestra, some concertsEnnio are atMorricone, Teatro Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others at Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are are at Teatro the Aula Magna, Piazza Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, 8, Palladium, Bartolomeo Romano Universita Roma Tre, Via while Ostienze teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, others234, are at www.r30.org the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Tre,festivals Via Ostienze 234, There are oftenRoma concerts, and opera www.r30.org recitals in several churches in Rome.

often concerts, festivals and153, opera All There Saints' are Anglican Church, Via Babuino recitals in several churches in Rome. www.allsaintsrome.org All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. www.allsaintsrome.org Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7 Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com

Oratorio del Caravita, Caravita St Paul's Within the Walls,Via Viadella Nazionale and7 the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the S. Agnese Sagrestia del Borromini, corner ofin ViaAgone, Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it Piazza Navona S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Palazzo PiazzaDoria NavonaPamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum Serenades by Night Dinner throughout and Opera dinner afterwards. Viawith del Corso 305, the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum www.doriapamphilj.com and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com Jan 2019 • •Wanted 5048 |48 Oct 2018 • Wanted in in Rome | |April 2019 Wanted inRome Rome

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MUSIC MUSIC THEATR THEATRE CINEMA CINEMA VENUES VENUES

MUSIC THEATRE CINEMA DANCE OPERA

dd p

inema inema

The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wantedshow in Rome website for The following cinemas movies in English weekly updates. or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for Adriano, Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 weeklyPiazza updates. Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 0686391361 Barberini, Piazza BarberiniMastroianni 24-26, 1, tel. Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello 0686391361 tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it 068553485 Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 068553485 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 066861068 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 066861068 Odeon, Piazza Stefano 22, tel. Nuovo Sacher, LargoJacini Ascianghi 1, 0686391361 tel. 065818116

Space Moderno, Piazza della 44, tel. Odeon, Piazza Stefano JaciniRepubblica 22, tel. 0686391361 06892111 Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebec06892111 chini 3-5, tel. 06892111 Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111

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ddance oopera p pop r ock r ance

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano www.teatrovascello.it 17, www.teatroolimpico.it

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it

pera

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

ock

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Concert venues ranging from major pop and Alexanderplatz, 9, tel. 0683775604 rock groups to Via jazzOstia and acoustic gigs. www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org Angelo Mai Via Atlantico delle Terme di Atlantico, VialeAltrove, dell’Oceano 271d, Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it

Atlantico, Viale Atlantico Auditorium Parcodell’Oceano della Musica, Viale 271d, P. de tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com Auditorium della Viale de Casa del Jazz, Parco Viale di PortaMusica, Ardeatina 55,P.tel. Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com 06704731, www.casajazz.it

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

heatre heatre

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net www.teatrobelli.it Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobelli.it www.teatrobrancaccio.it Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatrobrancaccio.it www.teatroghione.it Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. www.teatroghione.it 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net

Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com Lanificio 159,ViaVia di Pietralata 159, Live Alcazar, Cardinale Merry del Valtel. 14, 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com Live Alcazar, Merry del 35, Val 14, Monk Club, Via ViaCardinale Giuseppe Mirri tel. tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com 0664850987, www.monkroma.it Monk Club, ViaPiazzale Giuseppe Mirri 35,1, tel. PalaLottomatica, dello Sport tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it

PalaLottomatica, Piazzale Sport 1, tel. Rock in Roma, Via Appiadello Nuova 1245, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it www.teatrosangenesio.it Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsiwww.teatrosangenesio.it stina.it Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.ilsistina.it www.teatrovascello.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Vittoria,www.teatrovascello.it Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. tel. 065898031, 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it 51 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome

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ddance oopera p pop r ock r ance

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

pera

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

ock

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Atlantico, Viale Atlantico Auditorium Parcodell’Oceano della Musica, Viale 271d, P. de tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com Auditorium della Viale de Casa del Jazz, Parco Viale di PortaMusica, Ardeatina 55,P.tel. Coubertin,www.casajazz.it tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com 06704731,

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

heatre heatre

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Monk Club, ViaPiazzale Giuseppe Mirri 35,1, tel. PalaLottomatica, dello Sport tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it PalaLottomatica, Piazzale Sport 1, tel. Rock in Roma, Via Appiadello Nuova 1245, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

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, tel.

3432,

w.ilsi-

, tel.

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WANTED junior inROME “April is the cruellest month,” avers the speaker of The Waste Land by T.S. Eliot, ushering in a season of change, leaving cold winter behind. In the US, for the past 23 years, April has been celebrated as “National Poetry Month.” In the spirit of the month, American-born poet and teacher Moira Egan is proud to introduce some fine work by her Creative Writing students at St Stephen’s School.

Waterfalls Sofia Constable Maxwell, Grade 12 IB Art

by Marco Pennasilico Ventura, Grade 9, Age 14 Waterfalls by Marco Pennasilico Ventura, Grade 9, age 14

Student, age 18, St Stephen's School, Rome.

Baby blue droplets falling gracefully, athletically. Aerobic archangels gently plummeting, dripping, dipping, slipping and dropping into a nosedive. Spreading their worn wet wings, dancing as they slope downwards. Intertwining, melting, fusing and spreading and dreading the end of their gentle waver. Quivering together like soundwaves, their translucent bodies form a celestial curtain. Damp, sheer fabric heavy as chainmail, yet gracefully ﬂuttering with the force of a thousand men. A rogue cloud of mist germinating in a crack of earth’s asphalt. Surveilled by a halo of gulls Elysian heaven where all sense is lost Where one monumental Aphrodite, standing gracefully impetuous, catches the eye. The gulls basking in her immortal air, occasionally plummeting down to her naked ankles to the rhythm of her song pregnant with power. A mighty roar of wind and water Water that is swiftly ascending, slapping and submerging under its own kind, like brothers colliding on a dark grey battle ﬁeld. Spewing an ethereal mist at the divine cascades’ feet.  52 | April 2019 • Wanted in Rome WIR_APRIL_2019.indd 52

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Ripple by Camilla Sarram, Grade 9, age 15

Introspection by Sofia Peng, Grade 9, age 15

Soft, fast wind passing my ear; Emphatic sighs with quiet Knocks of mist like a tear

An everlasting storm envelops the concealed world. Erosion. Heavy rain smacks the ridge, whips the sombre rocks, spontaneously, off the cliff. Colliding, falling into a bottomless pit.

This was the cure I needed I get sick of confinement I still proceeded Adding a book then; I needed to sink myself in natural flows of speech

As the rock’s stiffness wears out, at length it can’t go further. Left with desolation.

The tonearm lifted Elements of nostalgia Of February

Perhaps, after years sweep by, one day, past the small hollow, we’ll notice the rock luminesce and the sun rise.

The gaps in my head Green lights flow where it’s been said They’re like poison A Piece about Young Reckless Icelanders by Ilaria Chen, Grade 9, age 14 Up the dry rough hay facing the edge of the world watching seas collide smeared on toast-like land held by adrenaline’s hand watching ants crawl by Us — the Icarus touching the brim of sunshine what a reckless time! The land known as “ice” somehow thawed the frost inside hearts reached for the sky

Yellow by Luna Del Bufalo, Grade 9, age 14 Sunlight piercing through a crack in my window Wind-blown dandelions swaying on their stems Guitars playing in the distance Flames in the chimney, sparkling like gems Sweet apple-pie aftertaste in my mouth Upbeat songs playing out loud Warm sand slipping through my fingers The sun rising behind a cloud A camomile mug waiting on my desk Warm summer days quickly going by Tangerine balm on my lips Seagulls soaring high, up up into the sky Mid-Autumn leaves falling to the ground Children laughing, and playing all around Chimes ringing, spreading sounds of gladness Images of yellow, nyakundu, the true color of happiness.

Natascha Zehner, Untitled, Grade 11, age 17, St Stephen's School, Rome.

WANTED IN ROME JUNIOR: For young writers and artists Wanted in Rome is accepting creative contributions from students in all international schools in Rome. Articles on topics related to either the student’s life in Rome or their school projects can be submitted by their class teachers. The work should be no more than 1,000 words and all contributions should contain the name, age and school of the students. We also accept illustrations. Any class teachers who would like to propose a project please contact editorial@wantedinrome.com.

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Rome’s artart capital continues to to grow with newnew murals by important Italian and Rome'sreputation reputationasasananimportant importantstreet street capital continues grow with murals by important Italian international streetstreet artistsartists appearing all the all time. the works located the suburbs, often far often from the and international appearing theMost time.ofMost of theare works are in located in the suburbs, far centre. Here is where to is find Rome’s mainthe street artstreet projects murals. from the centre. Here where to find main artand projects and murals around Rome. Esquilino Esquilino Murals Murals byby Alice Alice Pasquini, Pasquini, Gio Gio Pistone, Nicola Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Alessandrini, Diamond. Diamond. Casa Casa dell’Architettura, dell'Architettura, 47. Piazza Fanti PiazzaMafredo Manfredo Fanti 47. Marconi Marconi The The M.A.G.R. M.A.G.R. (Museo (Museo Abusivo Abusivo Gestito Gestitodai daiRom), Rom),a aproject projectby byFrench French street artistSeth Seth is located in a street artist is located in a former Via Antonio former soap factory soap factory on Viaon Antonio AvogaAvogadro, opposite dro, opposite Ostiense'sOstiense’s landmark details see landmark Gasometro. Gasometro. For For details see www.999contemporary.com. www.999contemporary.com. Museodell’Altro dell’Altroe edell’Altrove dell’Altrovedidi Museo Metropoliz Metropoliz This former former meat meat factory factory inin the the This outskirts of of Rome art nowa astreet outskirts Rome isis now street museum being home hometoto art museumasaswell well as as being some200 200squatting squatters,migrants. many of The them some migrants. The Museo dell’Altrodi e Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove dell’Altroveor diMAAM, Metropoliz, or MAAM, Metropoliz, is only open only open Saturdays, and andon features the work onis Saturdays, the work of moreincluding than 300 offeatures more than 300 artists artists including Gio Edoardo Kobra,Edoardo Gio Kobra, Pistone, Pistone, Sten&Lex Diamond.and See Sten&Lex, Pablo and Echaurren MAAM Facebook page for details. Borondo. See MAAM Facebook page Via Prenestina 913. for details. Via Prenestina 913. Ostiense Ostiense Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Porto Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Fluviale. Porto Fluviale. Fish’n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via Fish’n’Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale. del Porto Wall of Fluviale. Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali. Magazzini Shelley by Generali. Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense Via Ostiense. underpass, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense. Pigneto Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Pigneto Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71. Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.

Via Via Fanfulla Fanfulla da da Lodi. Lodi. 2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio. Fortebraccio. 2501 mural on Via Blu by Sten Blu Landscape Landscape by Sten & & Lex. Lex. Via Via Baracca. Francesco Francesco Baracca. Prati Prati Anna Magnaniportrait portrait by Diavù. Anna Magnani by Diavù. Nuovo Nuovo MercatoViaTrionfale, Via Mercato Trionfale, Andrea Doria. Andrea Doria. Daniza the bear by Daniza the bear by ROA. Via Sabotino. ROA. Via Sabotino. Primavalle Primavalle The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via Cristoforo Numai. Cristoforo Numai. the Minotaur by Theseus stabbing Theseus stabbing the Bembo. Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo. Quadraro Quadraro Tunnel murals by Mr THOMS and Gio Tunnel byMure. Mr THOMS and Pistone. murals Via Decio Gio Decio Mure. Via del NidoPistone. di Vespe Via by Lucamaleonte. Nido didel Vespe by Lucamaleonte. Via Monte Grano. del Monte Baby Hulkdel byGrano. Ron English. Via dei Baby PisoniHulk 89. by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89. Rebibbia Rebibbia Murals by Blu. Via Ciciliano and Via Via Murals by Blu. Palombini (Casal dèCiciliano Pazzi). and Via Palombini dè Pazzi). Welcome to(Casal Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Metro B station. Metro B station. S. Basilio S.SanBa Basilio features large-scale works on SanBa features large-scale works the façades of social-housing blockson in the of social-housing blocks the façades disadvantaged north-east suburb of in the disadvantaged north-east S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regenerasuburb of S.includes Basilio works near Rebibbia. tion project by Italian The project artistsregeneration Agostino Iacurci, Hitnesincludes and Blu works by Spain's ItalianLiqen. artistsViaAgostino alongside Maiolati, Iacurci, Hitnes and BluVia alongside Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Arcevia, Spain’s Via Treia.Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, Via Treia. S. Giovanni Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via S.Apulia Giovanni corner of Via Farsalo. Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.

It’s aa New NewDay Daybyby Alice Pasquini. It’s Alice Pasquini. Via Via Anton Ludovico. Anton Ludovico. S. Lorenzo Lorenzo S. AlicePasquini. Pasquini. ViaSabelli. dei Sabelli. Alice Via dei Feminicidemural mural Elisa Feminicide by Elisaby Caracciolo. Caracciolo. Via Dei Sardi.Via Dei Sardi. Viadei Volsci159. Borondo. Via deiVolsci 159. Borondo. Mural by by Agostino AgostinoIacurci Iacurci on Mural on the the Istituto Superiore di Lattanzio, Vittorio Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Via Aquilonia. Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia. Pietro S. Pietro UmaCabra Cabra Bordalo II. Stazione Uma byby Bordalo II. Stazione di S. Pietro, di Monte di S. Clivo Pietro, Clivo del di Gallo. Monte del Gallo. Testaccio Hunted Wolf by ROA. Via Galvani. Testaccio #KindComments AliceVia Pasquini, Via Hunted Wolf bybyROA. Galvani. Volta, Testaccio market. #KindComments by Alice Pasquini, Via Volta, Testaccio market. Tor Pignattara Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta. Tor Pignattara Etnik. Via Bartolomeo Perestrello 51. Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta. Coffee Etam Cru. Via Ludovico Etnik.Break ViabyBartolomeo Perestrello Pavoni. 51. Coﬀee Break by Etam Cru. Via Tom SawyerPavoni. by Jef Aerosol. Via Gabrio Ludovico Serbelloni. Tom Sawyer by Jef Aerosol. Via Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema Gabrio Serbelloni. Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Galeazzo Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Alessi. Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Herakut. Via Capua 14. Galeazzo Alessi. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Herakut. Via Capua 14. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Tor Marancia The Big City Life scheme features 14-m Tormurals Marancia tall by 22 Italian and internaThe Big City artists Life scheme features tional street including Mr 14-m tall murals by 22 Italian and Klevra, Seth, Gaia and Jerico. The idea international street was to transform theartists area's including blocks of Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia and Jerico. flats into an open-air art museum. Via TheMarancia. idea was to transform the area’s Tor www.bigcity.life.it. blocks of ﬂats into an open-air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. For full details see website, www.bigcity.life.it.

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Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth. Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

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ROMA • FIRENZE • MILANO • BRESCIA SERRAVALLE (AL) • MONTEBELLO 19/03/19 16:13

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CARCIOFI ALLA GIUDIABy Kate Zagorski As a classic dish of Jewish-Roman cuisine, carciofi alla giudia (Jewish-style, deep-fried artichokes) are a must-eat dish in the Eternal City. Although many restaurants, particularly in the Jewish Ghetto, serve them almost year-round, it is in the springtime when the local romanesco artichokes hit peak season that they are at their best. Making carciofi alla giudia at home is simpler than it looks. It helps if you can purchase your artichokes ready-cleaned (most market stalls will do this for you), otherwise factor in a little extra time to prepare them. The locally-grown Roman artichokes are spherical, with abundant, tightly packed leaves and no inner choke. The artichokes are fried twice, the first time at a lower temperature and for a longer period to ensure they are cooked through, and the second time at a high heat to open out the leaves and turn them golden. The outer layer of leaves should be hot and crunchy with the interior becoming softer and more tender. Don’t forget to eat the stalk too! To make this recipe it is handy to have a kitchen thermometer as the artichokes are fried at two different temperatures, but it is possible to make them without. Just use a smaller ring on the stove for the first fry and a larger one for the second.

Ingredients 4 Roman artichokes 2 lt vegetable oil 1 lemon Salt Pepper

• Firstly, if not already done, you will need to trim and clean the artichokes. Start by removing the hard, outer leaves then, using a sharp knife, cut

the stem, leaving around 5-6cm. Cut the top third off the head of the artichoke, then trim the leaves in a spiral motion until you get to the paler yellow leaves. Trim the tougher exterior from the base of the stem. • Now halve the lemon and rub the artichokes before placing them in a large bowl of cold water along with the juice of the lemon and the rinds. This will prevent oxidisation turning the leaves black. • In the meantime, bring a large saucepan of vegetable oil to a temperature of 130°C, if you use a smaller ring on you stove you should prevent the oil getting too hot. • Drain the artichokes and dry them well with kitchen paper, then place them into the oil and cook for about 10 minutes. Test that the artichokes are cooked by poking a fork or skewer at the base of the stalk. If it goes in and out easily the artichokes are ready. Remove the artichokes from the oil and leave them too cool on kitchen paper to absorb the excess oil. • Once they are cool, use your finger to open out the leaves, as if it were a flower. This will encourage them to open out further during the second frying. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, then heat the oil back up on a larger stove ring to a temperature of 190°. Carefully plunge the artichokes into the oil and cook for a few minutes until the leaves turn golden and crispy. • Remove the artichokes from the oil and leave them to drain for a minute before sprinkling with a little salt and serving hot and crunchy.

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The best cacio e pepe in Rome, seven unmissable restaurants Cacio e pepe is the quintessential Roman pasta dish, made with simple ingredients but far from simple to prepare. There are those who like it with hand-made tonnarello, and those who prefer spaghetti. Here are the best cacio e pepe restaurants in Rome, according to Puntarella Rossa. 7. FLAVIO AL VELAVEVODETTO In Testaccio, chef and restaurateur Flavio De Maio serves the finest specialities of Roman cuisine. Flavio's cacio e pepe recipe doesn’t call for a frying pan, but for a ‘mantecatura’ off the heat with pecorino romano, black pepper, the cooking water from the pasta and a dash of olive oil (“to ensure that when the dish cools down, the cheese mixes with the oil and adds a burst of flavour, taking the edge off the pecorino”). Price: €11. 6. DA FELICE Since Felice Trivelloni opened his osteria in 1936, the restaurant has been something of an institution for Roman cuisine. Their forte is indeed the cacio e pepe; it is plentiful and delicious and made with tonnarelli, cooking water from the pasta, pecorino and olive oil, for an irresistible creaminess. The finishing touch is the way in which it’s served: the pasta, cooking water and pecorino are mixed directly on the customer’s plate. Price: €13. 5. DA DANILO The cacio e pepe served at Trattoria Da Danilo in Esquillino is definitely one of the most renowned in the city. The most famous dish is, of course, the tonnarelli cacio e pepe, made with olive oil, freshly ground black pepper, cooking water from the pasta and pecorino romano. The difference at Danilo is that the pasta is mixed together directly in the pecorino romano wheel itself. The result is a superb creaminess and an intense flavour. Price: €10. 4. DA CESARE Here you can enjoy two versions of cacio e pepe, one with dry pasta (spaghetti, rigatoni), or fresh, handmade tonnarelli. Chef Leonardo Vignoli explains that to make cacio e pepe you need to mix the ground black pepper with the grated pecorino romano (which should have been matured for 6 months minimum) and a little cold water, then add the al dente spaghetti and give it a first mix off the heat. You should then add a generous spoonful

of cooking water from the pasta, put it back on the heat and stir it until it is creamy. Price: €9. 3. VYTA ENOTECA REGIONALE DEL LAZIO At Vyta you can try two versions of cacio e pepe, the classic variety or the summer version: tonnarelli, pecorino romano, fresh pepper, lemon and Roman mint. Here’s the recipe for a 500g serving: cook the tonnarelli in lots of salted water. While the pasta is still on the heat, take a spoonful of the cooking water and put it in a large saucepan. Add ground pepper to the water. Drain the pasta, put in pan and mix. Keep the pan on the heat and mix very slowly, using 100g of pecorino and grated lemon rind. Keep stirring until there’s the creaminess of cacio e pepe. Then add mint leaves. Serve immediately, adding another 50g of pecorino. Price: €13. 2. LA TERRAZZA DELL’HOTEL EDEN At the Hotel Eden, one of Rome’s most exclusive hotels, award-winning chef Fabio Ciervo is famous for his spaghetti cacio e pepe from Madagascar. He has reinterpreted the Roman pasta dish with thick spaghetti, chicken stock, pecorino romano, rose petals and black pepper from Madagascar. This is without a doubt one of the best cacio e pepe in Rome, but it is very expensive in comparison to our other favourites. Price: €45. 1. ROSCIOLI Established in 1824 and run by a family spanning four generations, Roscioli is a renowned Roman restaurant. Its menu includes all the classic Roman dishes but the star of the show is the cacio e pepe. And so what’s in theirs? Tonnarelli, pecorino romano, cheese from Moliterno, pecorino that has been matured in the earth from Sogliano and Malaysian pepper. It’s not such a simple list as the mix of cheeses gives the dish a special flavour. At the very end, Javan and Sarawakan pepper are ground together and then toasted as the finishing touch – it’s sensational. Price: €12.

www.puntarellarossa.it

Felice, Via Mastro Giorgio 29, tel. 065746800, www.feliceatestaccio.it Da Danilo, Via Petrarca 13, tel. 0677200111, www.trattoriadadanilo.com

Indirizzi

Flavio al Velavevodetto, Via di Monte Testaccio 97, tel. 065744194, www.ristorantevelavevodetto.it

Da Cesare, Via del Casaletto 45, tel. 06536015, www.trattoriadacesare.it VyTa, Via Frattina 94, tel. 0647786876, www.vytaenotecalazio.it La Terrazza Hotel Eden, Via Ludovisi 49, www.dorchestercollection.com/en/rome/hotel-eden Roscioli, Via dei Giubbonari 21, tel. 066875287, www.salumeriaroscioli.com Wanted in Rome • April 2019 | 59

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I B WO R L D S C H O O L

Inspiring Global Citizens. romeinternationalschool.it +39 06 844 82 651

BOOK A CAMPUS VISIT In partnership with

FOUNDED IN 1976

VISIT OUR SCHOOL

Preparing students for the world of tomorrow. southlands.it +39 06 5053932 In partnership with

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Associations American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com Daughters of the American Revolution Pax Romana Chapter NSDAR paxromana@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com

International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490, www.iwcofrome.it Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 3338466820 Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Woman’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com

Books The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified. Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836924 Anglo American Bookshop Via delle Vite 102, tel. 066795222 Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it

Religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881 Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish)

Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484 Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com Otherwise Via del Governo Vecchio, tel. 066879825, www.otherwisebookshop.com St Patrick’s English-Language Lending Library Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 0688818727, Sun 10.00-12.30, Tues 10.00-14.00, Wed 15.00-18.00, Thurs 11.00-15.30 Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 3332284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday Service 10.30

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Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei SS. Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Roma Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic) Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00

Support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.info Archè (HIV+children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/06582045580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 3381675680

Transport • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157066645-064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it

St Isidore College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic), Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827, www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri” Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022

Chiamaroma 24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Emergency numbers • • • • • • •

Ambulance tel. 118 Carabinieri tel. 112 Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 Fire brigade tel. 115 Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 Police tel. 113 Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355 Wanted in Rome • April 2019 | 63

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