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CONT E

EDITORIALS

NEW YEAR IN ROME Andy Devane

8. A CULTURAL CONCLAVE IN ROME Richard Hodges

12. PIAZZA NAVONA'S UNDERGROUND STADIUM Martin Bennett

16. TO DO CALENDAR 18. Cultural Academies 22. MUSEUMS 26. ART GALLERIES 48. CULTURAL VENUES 52. Wanted in Rome junior 54. STREET ART guide 57. RECIPE 58. PUNTARELLA ROSSA 62. USEFUL NUMBERS

ONLINE CLASSIFIEDS As of 1 January 2019 classified advertisements will no longer appear in the magazine but may be published around the clock on our website www.wantedinrome.com. DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: Marco Venturini EDITRICE: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9 PROGETTO GRAFICO E IMPAGINAZIONE: Dali Studio Srl STAMPA: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c. DIFFUSIONE: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425. Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131del 6/3/1985. Finito di stampare il 30/11/2019

THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME

Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 11, Numero 11 DECEMBER 2019 | € 2,00

4. CHRISTMAS AND

MISCELLANY

WHAT'S ON

31. EXHIBITIONS 37. Classical 39. ROCk, POP, JAZZ 39. DANCE 40. festivals 42. ART NEWS 44. OPERA 46. Theatre 46. academies 47. Books

Copies are on sale at: Newsstands in Rome Feltrinelli International, Via V. E. Orlando 84 Anglo American Bookstore, Via della Vite 102 Wanted in Rome, Via di Monserrato 49 Wanted in Rome Via di Monserrato 49 - tel. 066867967 advertising@wantedinrome.com editorial@wantedinrome.com www.wantedinrome.com www.wantedinmilan.com

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Battlefield by Andrey Remnev from the Rome exhibition The Face of a Natural Force at Dorothy Circus Gallery. For details see page 31.

ENTS 4

CHRISTMAS AND NEW YEAR IN ROME

PIAZZA NAVONA'S UNDERGROUND STADIUM

exhibitions

39 ROCK, POP, JAZZ

Christmas

CHRISTMAS AND NEW YEAR IN ROME Rome's foreign community holds numerous events over the festive season

hristmas is a magical time in Rome, particularly for children. Streets in the historic centre twinkle with traditional street light displays, shops lay red carpets outside their premises, and the city’s churches come to life with Nativity scenes, several of which feature real, live people. It is a far cry from the tinselly excesses of North America and northern Europe, although Santa Claus makes an increasing presence each year in Roman shopfronts. Christmas in Rome is a much less glitzy experience, revolving instead around cultural and religious traditions, family and food. For many the festive season will begin on 5

Andy Devane December, when the Vatican switches on the lights on its Christmas tree in St Peter’s Square. This year it is a 26m-high spruce from the northern Italian region of Rotzo, in the province of Vicenza, whose centuries-old forests were devastated by gales last winter. The timber crib will be made in the Trentino tradition, with more than 20 life-sized figures as well as some tree trunks from the storm-hit forests. December is always a busy month for Rome’s numerous foreign communities, whose members gather for annual parties and events before departing to their home countries. However, while the Christmas period is a time of festive cheer for many expats, it is also worth remembering foreign residents who are less fortunate.

The Vatican unveils its Christmas tree and Nativity scene on 7 December.

4 | December 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Christmas The Joel Nafuma Refugee Center (JNRC) at the American Episcopal Church of Rome, St Paul’s within the Walls, is holding its Christmas Market Place on 7 December, from 10.00-16.00. The market offers the chance to buy craftwork made by refugee artisans, as well as international food prepared by refugee chefs. The JNRC is also appealing for donations of small practical Christmas gifts for the refugees in its care, to be brought to Via Napoli 58. For details see their website, www.jnrc.it. Later on 7 December, the community of the Pontifical Irish College holds its annual Advent liturgy followed by Christmas carols at 17.00. Firmly established on Rome’s expat calendar, this nostalgic occasion is made all the more festive with mulled wine and panettone, the most popular Italian Christmas cake. Rome’s Christmas tree, sponsored for the second consecutive year by American media-services provider Netflix, is located in Piazza Venezia, and its lights are expected to be switched on at 18.00 on 8 December. Although there are Christmas mangers and Nativity scenes in churches throughout the capital, the main draw is always 100 Presepi, the international crib exhibition, which moved from its historic Piazza del Popolo base to Via della Conciliazione near the Vatican last year. Popular with young and old, the crib show is now in its 44th edition and takes place from 7 December until 12 January. On 8 December, Pope Francis will mark the Feast of the Immaculate Conception by laying a floral wreath at the statue of the Madonna at Piazza Mignanelli, near the Spanish Steps. It is around this time that Romans begin decorating their homes with Christmas trees and seasonal plants such as the poinsettia and butcher’s broom, an evergreen shrub spotted with red berries. For the 10th year running the Swedish embassy brings S. Lucia to Rome, sharing one of Sweden’s best-loved traditions with the capital on 12 December. This year’s choir of young students from Stockholm will perform Swedish traditional Christmas songs, carols and hymns at Piazza di Pietra at 19.00, followed by treats such as glögg (hot spiced wine) and gingerbread biscuits. For Christmas shopping ideas, Rome has plenty of markets over the festive period, from the

trendy Mercato Monti to the more traditional Piazza Navona market, while the Christmas Village at the Auditorium Parco della Musica hosts an ice-skating rink as well as regular visits from the man himself, Babbo Natale. The Vatican’s annual charity concert will take place in the Paul XI Auditorium on 14 December, featuring international musicians including Lionel Richie and Bonnie Tyler, with proceeds going to the Amazon and its indigenous peoples. Most Roman families gather on Christmas Eve to share a substantial fish dinner which, in contrast to the US and northern Europe, is the main family meal. Midnight Mass, which rarely occurs at midnight anymore, is held at parish churches across Rome, including the Papal Mass in St Peter’s Basilica at 21.30. The next day, large crowds will gather in St Peter’s Square at noon to be blessed by Pope Francis as he delivers his annual Urbi et Orbi message “to the city and the world”. For Christmas religious services in English see page 6. Expats who are sticking around in Rome over the festive season and who want to recreate their own traditional British or American-style Christmas meal can find most of the necessary ingredients at the city’s Castroni chain of food shops. Those wishing to dine in Rome’s restaurants over the festive period are advised to book well in advance due to high demand. Moving on to New Year’s Eve, known as the Festa di S. Silvestro in Italy, the traditional meal consists of cotechino (a product similar to salami), zampone (stuffed pig’s trotter), and lentils which are believed to bring luck for the coming year, all washed down with a glass or two of prosecco or spumante. A well-known but now fortunately almost extinct tradition associated with capodanno in southern Italy involves people throwing old objects out the window, symbolising their readiness to welcome in the new year. This year the capital is offering 24 hours of free cultural entertainment by “1,000 artists” to ring in the new year with live music, dance and theatre. The events will be held in the area around the Bocca della Verità and the Circus Maximus which hosts a three-hour dj set by Skunk Anansie singer Skin, complete with a giant fireworks display. Wanted in Rome • December 2019 | 5

Christmas CHRISTMAS 2019 CHURCH SERVICES IN ENGLISH All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b, tel. 0636001881. 24 Dec. Crib Service 17.00, First Eucharist of Christmas 23.30. 25 Dec. Said Eucharist 08.30; Sung Eucharist 10.30.

The Swedish tradition of S. Lucia returns to Piazza di Pietra on 12 December. Photo Zero.

On New Year’s Day one of the city’s most unusual and popular sights takes place at midday on Ponte Cavour. As soon as the cannon fires on the Gianicolo to mark midday, daredevil divers thrill the crowds by making the 17-metre plunge, known as the Tuffo nel Tevere into the icy waters of the Tiber below. On 5 January the post-Christmas clothes sales begin in Rome and the Lazio region. The next day, 6 January, Italians celebrate the religious Feast of the Epiphany, better known by its popular name of La Befana. In the Bible tradition, the feast of the Epiphany is when the three magi arrive in Bethlehem to visit the Christ child. In the popular tradition of the Befana, the story goes that the wise men invited a witch to join them on their journey to bring gifts to baby Jesus. She initially refused, but then tried to follow them. Unable to find Jesus she gave the toys to other children. Traditionally children in Italy hang stockings by windows or fireplaces in anticipation of her visit, receiving sweets if they’ve been good or coal (nowadays usually made of sugar) if they misbehaved. The story of the Befana is reenacted each year in Piazza Navona and the witch’s departing flight marks the end of the holiday season. By the time the Vatican takes down its tree and crib, on 12 January, Christmas in Rome will be well and truly over. Wanted in Rome wishes all its readers a very happy Christmas and every good wish for 2020. 6 | December 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Rome Baptist Church S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652066876211. 24 Dec. Christmas Eve Service, 19.00. 25 Dec. Christmas Service, 10.30. St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627. 24 Dec. Christmas Eve Service, 18.30. St Patrick’s American Community (Roman Catholic) Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 064203121. 24 Dec. Children’s Christmas Pageant Mass 16.30. Concert and Carols 19.00. Midnight Mass 19.30. 25 Dec. Christmas Day Mass 09.00, 10.30. St Paul’s Within-the-Walls (Episcopal Church) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339. 24 Dec. Musical prelude 22.30. Holy Eucharist, 23.00. 25 Dec. Second Eucharist of Christmas, 10.30. S. Isidoro Church (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359. 24 Dec. Midnight Mass 21.00. 25 Dec. Mass 10.00. S. Silvestro in Capite (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121. 24 Dec. Mass at 19.30. 25 Dec. Christmas Mass at 10.00 and 17.30. St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic), Via della Caravita 7. 24 Dec. Christmas Eve carol service 18.30. Vigil Mass 19.00. For the programme of Pope Francis see the Vatican’s calendar of religious celebrations, w2.vatican.va/content/liturgy.

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Culture Opera

A CULTURAL CONCLAVE IN ROME A voyage into Italy’s bureaucracy: selecting a shortlist of directors for three cultural sites

was celebrating last year’s Christmas vacation in my favourite Sardinian osteria in Rome when my cell phone rang. The chatter around me was loud so I found it hard to hear over the static an acquaintance enquire if I might serve on a ministry of culture committee. Rather than quiz him, given the circumstances, I said yes and in 30 seconds the matter was closed. Without realising it I had committed myself to 11 days on a museum selection commission for Italy’s Ministero per i Beni ed Attività Culturali (MiBAC). Ten days later the formal email came confirming the official appointment of the commission to select directors for the archaeological site of Pompeii, the Reggia di Caserta and the Venice Accademia, a gallery with amazing collections that, bizarrely, attracts few visitors. I should have recognised the problem when I looked closer: we were five academics on the commission and I was listed as Professor Arch[itect] Odges. The letter H is always a problem in Italy, but how on earth did I become an architect? It was my first

The entrance to Italy's culture ministry in Rome.

8 | December 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Richard Hodges insight into a wonderland that my non-academic friends took to be a great honour but induced funereal commiserations from those in the know. It is a terrible mistake if you live in another country believing it should be a cookie-cutter version of your own country. Before long, you have to go with the flow, chip away at the things that can be changed, and accept the underlying philosophy, otherwise you’ll suffer terribly. This said, most Italians would agree that the state needs to come to terms with the 21st century, especially in the cultural heritage sector where it is plainly missing a trick. Basically, what was the point of our committee? In 2015 the then government, led by prime minister Matteo Renzi, put through a reform to create autonomous archaeological parks and museums under its culture minister Dario Franceschini. Twenty were designated in the first act, each answering to a board as well as the ministry’s secretary general rather than the previous cumbersome hierarchical chain. Change comes hard in Italy, not least because the minister in question controversially encouraged foreigners to apply. He wanted to up the bar on the management of these places, generating increased revenues and better services. His good intentions met with clamorous dissent, but he prevailed. However it seemed that his initiative would be dumped by the 2018 government, a coalition of the MoVimento 5 Stelle and the Lega led by Giuseppe Conte with its nationalist agenda and its new culture minister, Alberto Bonisoli. It wasn’t. The conclave The ministry’s offices in Via del Collegio Romano

Culture exist in a tight ensemble of buildings, part of which is a secondary school and part the church of St Ignatius of Loyola. The remainder of the labyrinthine structure, just a stone’s throw from Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, is occupied by a thousand civil servants, all entering through a small porter’s lodge. Our commission met on the top floor in the library of the meteorologists. It is a netherworld separated from the strip-lighting of the corridors and offices inhabited by the ministry of culture. Here you are reminded of Italy’s infinite riches: beneath ceiling frescoes with portraits of scientists, and surrounded by walls of leather-bound monographs, the odour of age and the necessary dim lighting cast a certain ageless benediction upon our proceedings. Here, at a huge table on which scientists could unfold folio books, we were deemed to deliberate. From the beginning it felt as though we were cardinals invested in electing popes. Five of us, two art historians, a professor of conservation, a classical archaeologist and I (a classical archaeologist – Roman topography) made up the commission. To one side sat a row of six ministry officials who offered smiles and a little assistance. This conclave lasted 11 days. Eight days drifted as we allotted points out of a hundred based on ministry criteria to each candidate: two points for a degree, more for a doctorate, lots for experience, two for fund-raising, two for languages and a discretionary 10 for our collective thoughts on each of the 150 candidates. In America and Britain the allocation of points would have pivoted around a vision involving strategic planning and then development. Not here. Bibliography mattered, an index of disciplinary training, quantity of published articles being more important that quality. The unthinkable was the appointment of someone who was neither an archaeologist nor a conservation architect being elected director of Pompeii. Whatever the managerial challenges, these fiefdoms belong to their established disciplines, and if there were disputes between the commissioners it was when one or other of us flirted with a candidate trained as an economist or lawyer leading our site or museum. From an early age Italians are streamed at secondary school into classics, sciences and so on, and the universities take pride in sustaining their disciplinary traditions.

The library of meteorologists where the commission convened.

Together, gently splitting hairs over points, taking each applicant’s curriculum vita as a starting point, we arrived at an aggregate number for each person. A few managed upwards of 80 points; some hopefuls got less than 20. As often as not, the discussions reminded me of Italians ordering food in a restaurant: their palettes are so refined to detect the differences between one olive oil and another. So we graded, constructing an immense spreadsheet of digits, while the mute officials looked on, only becoming animated as we postured to leave because our daily presence needed to be signed for, an initial on each page of every document associated with us. A familiarity strengthened our conclave to the extent that there was no hint of expedience or favouritism, and certainly no truck with clientalismo (patronage networks). Far from it. The collective, diligent objectivity for a pragmatic Briton was at times excessive (if not infuriating) but wholly admirable. What was extraordinary by any Anglo-American standards was the time the commission invested as service, duty to the country and discipline. Bear in mind, in Britain or the USA a search company would have been Wanted in Rome • December 2019 | 9

Culture etc., and resisted further reforms to attract donors.

Piazza del Collegio Romano.

deployed to make the first cut. They in turn would have used a junior employee to do it. Our task was to reduce the 150 candidates to 10 for each of the three places. Ten candidates for a half hour interview, to be reduced to three for each position for the minister to interview, selecting the director. Three days of interviews. Nearly ten hours each day. What was amazing to me was that these were held in public, though the deliberations were not. So, candidates attended each other’s interviews. Here our cultural differences were truly exposed. A northern European candidate was fluent, measured, engaging and from the outset offered a vision based on a financial plan. My fellow commissioners were thrilled, transported by the candidate’s spare clarity. It was not hard to see why. Most Italian candidates, as so often in their lecturing style, drilled excitedly at us in machine-gun monologues with the barest inflection, never really seeking our eyes until a commissioner relieved the tension by intervening. Then a dialogue evolved. But, speaking to me in English, almost all of the candidates reduced the speed of their delivery, engaged me, and whether they could answer the question or not, assumed a more responsive mien. Only one candidate, a highflyer, took risks and told jokes and jousted with us. Boy, did we love that! All but those who had worked abroad lamented the painful circumstances in Italy, their droll exasperation drawing restrained nodding from the conclave. Almost all hoped for a deus ex machina solution to financing the future from the EU, banks

In the end we deliberated quite quickly. We arrived easily at the first and second ranked winners, but we anguished over the third-placed candidate for each museum/site. At one point the debate turned into a Puccini-esque opera (papers slammed onto the oak table, etc.), such was the passion. At stake was to do the very best. Could it have taken less time? Yes. Were the criteria correct? No. This said, although the grading was numbingly deliberative, and almost archaic, I think we were instinctively proud of discovering three winners for these very different institutions. Finding relief in the strip-lit corridors or the cold library of the climatologists punctuated the days in this conclave. Is it like this for cardinals electing popes? Was I wise to have accepted this odyssey into Italy’s statist heart? Without doubt, thanks to my fellow commissioners, I learnt much more than I might have imagined, not least about the deep-seated values of the academic traditions of this challenged country. Afterword In the topsy-turvy world of Italian politics, am I surprised that since the commission met much has happened? One of the candidates who was not selected challenged his punteggi and compelled the then minister of culture, Alberto Bonisoli, to respond in parliament. Bonisoli asserted that everything was done correctly and this candidate lost. The first Conte coalition government then set about trimming the progressive autonomy of the museums and parks, only for a change of the government coalition at the beginning of September this year, bringing about the return of Dario Franceschini, the architect of the 2015 reform. I can only assume more historic places and museums will gain their autonomy and more conclaves will meet to grade CVs for days on end. Richard Hodges, a British archaeologist, is president of The American University of Rome and was director of the British School at Rome from 1988-1995. A longer version of this article was published in the November 2019 issue of Current World Archaeology 98.

The director at Pompeii is Massimo Osanna, who has been in the post since 2014. At the Accademia at Venice, the vice director, Giulio Manieri Elia, an art historian, was appointed director and at Caserta the appointment was a woman director, Tiziana Maffei, an architect and expert in museology and museography, previously head of the International Council of Museums.

10 | December 2019 • Wanted in Rome

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History Opera

PIAZZA NAVONA'S UNDERGROUND STADIUM The ancient ruins of the Stadium of Domitian can be visited under Piazza Navona Martin Bennett

Piazza Navona as it once would have appeared, compared to how it looks now.

s you quietly sip a coffee in Piazza Navona, a pinch of zest is added by the thought of being seated in what once would have been the path of professional athletes hurtling naked round Domitian’s Stadium. As well as the shape of the piazza, the link is there in the name. Evoking Greek athletic contests of ancient times, the mediaeval “Piazza d’Agone” with a consonant shift comes down to us as Piazza Navona. Even closer to the mediaeval name is that of the church of S. Agnese in Agone, designed by Borromini, which is the backdrop to Bernini’s Fountain of the Four Rivers. By another stretch of imagination, you might be underwater. The structure was occasionally flooded for mock naval battles – naumachie – accounting for the present name’s initial syllable, a practice revived in the 18th and 19th centuries, when on August weekends Roman prelates and nobles processed in carriages, their axles peaceably paddling water. 12 | December 2019 • Wanted in Rome

At the square’s still curved Via Agonale end, after a 12-m descent, thanks to the Piazza Navona Underground museum it is possible enter the stadium anew, passing through the original brick mixed with other material to withstand earthquakes. (The marble overlays were carried away by the Byzantine emperor Constantius II in 356 AD to adorn his eastern capital.) Travertine slabs and stretches of the stadium’s original paving prove that in Rome for every sight above ground, others lie beneath. For the 120 arches, sand-covered area and the athletes themselves, one has to make do with a giant video re-construction. But why athletes, not gladiators? The answer is in the Roman elite’s predilection for things Greek. To quote English historian Edward Gibbon, “victorious Rome was itself subdued by the arts of Greece.” Indeed, the stadium arena, 192m long and 54m wide, replicates almost religiously the stadium in Olympia. As in Greece, the games were held every four years. The athletes were, yes, Greek or from its surrounding regions, the

History victors being guaranteed Roman citizenship. Via a mosaic from the Baths of Caracalla, one hulky specimen – naked but for laurel palm and crown – appears in the Vatican Museums. Actually, after a fire in 217 damaged the Colosseum, the stadium would host gladiators as well; and unlike Rome’s circuses, no central section (spina) or horses’ starting traps (carceres) impeded the view. Though Domitian (81-96 AD) was not without a bloody streak himself – Suetonius, that ancient gossip, wrote decades after Domitian’s death that the emperor’s favourite pastime was pulling the wings off flies – this did not preclude a desire to promote “contests that strengthened the body instead of destroying it” (Carcopino, Daily Life in Ancient Rome). Thus the public might be weaned off blood sports, human as well as animal, in the Colosseum. True, the end of Domitian’s reign was characterised by political murder, particularly of senators. However, with their confiscated riches he could fund palaces and stadiums, plus pay rises for the mostly faithful army. And it is there in esercito or exercise, as Gibbon points out, that the Italian word for army derives. Even now many Italian Olympians come for the same institution.

disaffection partly derived from the emperor’s character. The thrill of competition must have been dampened, knowing how the winner, against all athletic odds, would probably be Nero himself. He could flaunt 1,808 trophies. One victory was in Olympia, Greece, sport’s holy of holies. Nero’s ten-horsed chariot (other competitors had fourhorsed ones) crashed on the first lap. That didn’t stop him being adjudged the winner anyway. Another story narrates that during a singing competition in Naples the audience had to sit through an earthquake as Nero insisted, don’t worry; it was only the gods applauding him. At least Domitian refrained from competing. He did, though, like previous emperors make a point of attending. Not only as top spectator, but dominus et deus, lord and god. The public (potentially 30,000, discounting the larger numbers mesmerised by the gore up at the Colosseum) could also behold the emperor in purple mantle and golden crown to include a seated Jove, Juno and Minerva, the Capitoline Triad.

In nearby Campo Marzio, generations of troops were trained, “the exercises comprehending whatever could add strength to the body and grace to the motions.” In the midst of peace, adds Gibbon, “recruits were instructed to march, to run, to leap…” His list ends with “to move to the sound of lutes, in Pyrrhic or martial dance.” Latin’s “Mens sana in corpore sano” reflects the Greek idea of games that incorporated music and dance. Promoting athletes, not gladiators, Julius Caesar had also tried to soften public taste, constructing a wooden stadium in the same Campo Marzio area to celebrate his triumph. His successor Augustus instituted the four yearly Actiæ games to celebrate his victory at Actium. Alas, by AD 14, with the death of Augustus, the Actiæ vanish from the record, presumably for lack of interest. After gladiator shows and chariot races, such games must have seemed tame. Nero (54-68 AD) tried with his four-yearly Neronia, the games including music contests. Public

Remains of Domitian's Stadium.

Wanted in Rome • December 2019 | 13

Domitian's Stadium once dominated the area we know today as Piazza Navona.

As if this wasn’t showy enough, his imperial person was flanked by Jove’s priest. Following enviously, so historians claim, in the footsteps of his more popular brother Titus, who had inaugurated the Colosseum with 100 days of games, Domitian could offset the senate’s hostility by currying favour with the people. Emperors used sport “as an instrument of their absolutism.” Carponcino again. “A people that yawns is ripe for revolt…” Meanwhile senators must have mulled over their property confiscated to help fund just such a spectacle. Once back in his lavishly extended palace on the Palatine, Domitian would keep a wary eye out for potential assassins. Death came in an inner room, a senate-based plot encouraged by Domitian’s estranged wife, Domitia. In the subsequent damnatio memoriæ (whereby new emperors sought to cancel all reference to their predecessors), Domitian’s statues and other regalia were torn down. The statue of Menelaus (originally holding the body of the dying Patroclus) survives as the renamed and betterknown Pasquino in the homonymous square round the corner from Piazza Navona.

panels illustrate the disciplines one by one: the javelin with obvious military applications. Leaping long-jumpers carrying then jettisoning a pair of 2 kg weights (halteres) to propel them farther – a military application for crossing enemy lines? The diaulos, twice the length of the stadium, equivalent to our 200-m sprint. Then the longdistance dolichos. Known as oplitodromia, the same distance was also run with shield and helmet: an equivalent might be our 3,000-m steeplechase, the obstacles outside rather than “on” the competitor? The lampadedromia, a relay race, involved torches, not batons; for visual appeal. Wrestling was no holds barred. A point for the World Wrestling Federation and its audience rankings to consider, it sometimes pitted men against women, pre-match preparations involving body-powder and olive oil. As in boxing, categories went by age not weight. Far more brutal than today’s Olympics with their protective head-gear, contests in both disciplines could only be stopped, barring submission, by blinding or death. Boxing gloves were leather straps (himantes), often with metal “padding” as worn by the ancient Greek bronze sculpture Boxer at Rest at Palazzo Massimo alle Terme. Flesh turned bronze, note the swollen right eye and ears, flattened nose, upper jaw missing its teeth. Due to the sculptor’s skill, the greenish patina still comes flecked with red gashes, suggesting blows inflicted seconds before as the athlete catches breath between rounds.

Not that the stadium fell into dilapidation. There is its already-instanced use as substitute Colosseum. It pops up again at the British Museum on a gold coin minted under the Severans under whom it was restored then renamed Circus Alexandri in the short-lived reign of Alexander Severus.

Time to climb the narrow staircase back up into the present. The most athletic element in sight is Bernini’s tirelessly (and high-jumping) water fountain. A refreshing spritz prompts the observation, how eminently Greek it all seems except for the Egyptian obelisk on top of Bernini’s Fountain of the Four Rivers in the middle of the square. On the orders of Innocent X, it was transported to Piazza Navona in five massive fragments from Circo Massenzio on the Via Appia. With Borromini’s, then Bernini’s help, the Pamphili pope intended Piazza Navona as the city’s new epicentre, converting the former racetrack into “Rome’s drawing room”, the ideal venue in which to sit back, gaze and admire.

And the events themselves? Making the museum a sine qua non for any team visiting Rome, wall-

The stadium can be visited at Via Tor Sanguigna 3 from Sun-Fri 10.00-19.00 and Sat 10.00-20.00.

14 | December 2019 • Wanted in Rome

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to do

Mon Tue Wed Thu 2

Don’t miss a showing Pop into Hotel De La Ville of Bruce Springsteen’s for an afternoon cocktail Western Stars in Rome inspired by a 13thcinemas. century spice route.

Check out a book workshop at Più libri Più liberi at the Nuvola Convention Center.

The Vatican switches on the lights of its Christmas tree in St Peter’s Square at 16.30.

Keep colds at bay the Head to Piazza Barberini to see the lights of the Italian way and ask for menorah being lit in a spremuta d’arancia at honour of Chanukah. your local bar.

Support British theatre with Trend and see Stripped by Stephen Clark at Teatro Belli.

Make a pilgrimage to see Michelangelo’s Moses in the Church of St Peter in Chains.

ART MUSIC FOOD NATURE CINEMA FAMILY THEATRE

Scour the wares at Mercato Monti for unique additions to your winter wardrobe.

Visit the virtual landscapes of Van Gogh and Monet at the Guido Reni venue.

Visit the Basilica of S. Maria Maggiore which houses pieces of wood from the manger of Bethlehem.

Indulge yourself at the Said chocolate factory in S. Lorenzo.

Go shopping for How long has it been traditional Italian since you’ve seen the Trevi holiday delicacies at Fountain? Go at night for a Eataly in Ostiense. romantic experience.

Reserve at Marzapane Take a walk through St Roma for an Peter’s Square to admire unforgettable and the nativity scene before reasonably priced lunch. Christmas Eve meal.

Ring in the new year in style with a free dj set by Skin at the Circus Maximus.

19 26

Head to the mountains of Abruzzo and Campo Felice for skiing and sledding.

Foto di Julia Casado da Pixabay

December Fri Sat Sun 2019 1

Head to your favourite museum and enter for free as part of Domenica al Museo.

Marvel at the creations of silversmith Valadier at Galleria Borghese but book in advance.

Marc Di Martino and Moira Egan read poetry at the Anglo American Bookstore at 18.00.

See Pope Francis lay a wreath at the statue of the Madonna in Piazza Mignanelli at 16.30.

Have a fun night out at Priscilla, La regina del deserto at Teatro Brancaccio.

Romeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s museums open late with live music thanks to Musei in Musica.

Enjoy food, drinks and shopping at the Christmas City at the PratiBus District.

This year try a pandoro instead of panettone â&#x20AC;&#x201C; it makes great toast with jam on Christmas morning.

27 Go to Chiostro Del Bramante for the Bacon and Freud exhibit, stay for the homemade cheesecake at the bar.

Admire the 100 Presepi Christmas crib exhibition on Via della Conciliazione.

Discover the Parco dei Mostri in Bomarzo, a great day outing with kids.

Organise a trip to Trento to visit one of the most beautiful Christmas markets in Europe.

29 For an uplifting experience check out the Roma Gospel Festival.

A short guide to some of the most important international Cultural Academies in Rome representing countries from around the world in the Eternal city.

Cultural Academies AMERICAN ACADEMY IN ROME The American Academy in Rome works to promote research and independent study in the arts and humanities. Via Angelo Masina 5, tel. 065810788, www.aarome.org.

CASA DI GOETHE Rome’s museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe offers exhibitions and cultural events throughout the year. Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www.casadigoethe.it.

AUSTRIAN CULTURAL FORUM The Austrian Cultural Forum hosts events dedicated to the history and culture of Austria. Viale Bruno Buozzi 113, tel. 063608371, www.austriacult.roma.it.

CENTRE CULTUREL SAINT-LOUIS DE FRANCE The centre offers cultural events such as film screenings, lectures, debates and theatre. Largo Toniolo 20, tel. 066802629, www.ifcsl.com.

BELGIAN ACADEMY The Belgian Academy facilitates scientific and cultural relations between Italy and Belgium by sponsoring researchers and artists in Italy. Via Omero 8, tel. 063201889, www.academiabelgica.it.

CENTRO CULTURAL BRASIL-ITALIA The centre offers courses of Brazilian Portuguese and samba and hosts meetings with writers and filmmakers, conferences on Brazilian literature and screenings of Brazilian movies. Piazza Navona 18, tel. 0668398284, www.roma.itamaraty.gov.br/it/centro_cultural_brasil-italia.xml.

BRITISH COUNCIL The British Council promotes the English language and appreciation in Italy of the UK’s creative ideas and achievements. Via di S. Sebastianello 16, tel. 06478141, www.britishcouncil.it. BRITISH SCHOOL AT ROME The British School at Rome brings scholars, artists, researchers and architects from Britain to create a cultural exchange between Britain and Italy. Via Gramsci 61, tel. 063264939, www.bsr.ac.uk.

18 | December 2019 • Wanted in Rome

DANISH ACADEMY The Danish Academy is an institution that offers support to Danish artists in Rome. Via Omero 18, tel. 063265931, ww.dkinst-rom.dk. DUTCH INSTITUTE The Dutch Institute offers courses for students and researchers and serves as a bridge between Dutch universities and Italy. Via Omero 10, tel. 063269621, www.knir.it.

EGYPTIAN ACADEMY The Egyptian Academy brings Arabian, Egyptian and African culture and art to Italy. Via Omero 4, tel. 063201896, www.accademiaegitto.org. FRENCH ACADEMY The French Academy at Villa Medici hosts artists from France and provides exhibitions and festivals throughout the year. Viale Trinità dei Monti 1, tel. 066761305, www.villamedici.it. GERMAN ACADEMY The German Academy offers German artists, writers, musicians and architects the opportunity to study in Rome. Largo di Villa Massimo 1, tel. 064425931, www.deutsche-kultur-international.de. GERMAN HISTORICAL INSTITUTE This institute conducts research into the history of Germany and Italy, in particular the relations between both countries. Via Aurelia Antica 391, tel. 066604921, www.dhi-roma.it. GOETHE INSTITUT The Goethe Institut promotes education in Italy about German culture, language and history. Via Savoia 15, tel. 068440051, www.goethe.de. HUNGARIAN ACADEMY The Academy of Hungary in Rome hosts concerts, literary events and exhibitions by Hungarian artists and scholars. Via Giulia 1, tel. 066889671, www.roma.balassiintezet.hu.

KOREAN CULTURAL INSTITUTE The Korean Cultural Institute promotes Korean culture in Italy and periodically offers cultural events, concerts, art exhibitions and courses ranging from Korean language to cuisine. Via Nomentana 12, tel. 06441633, www.culturacorea.it. NORWEGIAN INSTITUTE The Norwegian Institute in Rome offers undergraduate and graduate courses in art history, ancient studies and Italian. Viale 30 Aprile 33, tel. 0658391007, www.hf.uio.no. POLISH CULTURAL INSTITUTE Institution dedicated to Polish history and culture as well as the promotion of dialogue between Poland and Italy. Via Vittoria Colonna 1, tel. 0636000723,www.istitutopolacco.it. POLISH ACADEMY OF SCIENCE The Polish Academy is a research centre for the humanities and a scientific exchange between Poland and Italy. Vicolo Doria 2, tel. 066792170, www.accademiapolacca.it. ROMANIAN ACADEMY The Romanian Academy hosts events and promotes cultural relations between Romania and Italy. Piazza Josè di S. Martin 1, tel. 063201594, www.accadromania.it. RUSSIAN INSTITUTE OF CULTURE AND LANGUAGE The Russian Institute provides classes in Russian language and culture. Via Farini 62, tel. 064870137.

INSTITUTO CERVANTES Instituto Cervantes is a cultural institution created to promote the teaching of Spanish language and culture. Via di Villa Albani 16, tel. 068551949, www.cervantes.es.

SPANISH ACADEMY The Spanish Academy hosts artists in many fields of study and holds events that provide a cultural bridge between Spain and Italy. Piazza S. Pietro in Montorio 3, tel. 065818607, www.raer.it.

ITALIAN INSTITUTE FOR LATIN AMERICA The Italo-Latin American Institute facilitates research into the cultural, scientific, economic and social aspects of Italy and Latin American countries. Via Giovanni Paisiello 24, tel. 06684921, www.iila.org.

SWEDISH INSTITUTE OF CLASSICAL STUDIES The Swedish Institute is a research centre dedicated to scientific research in art and archaeology. Via Omero 14, tel. 063201596, www.isvroma.it.

JAPANESE CULTURAL INSTITUTE The Japanese Cultural Institute hosts hosts regular cultural events and also offers courses in Japanese. Via Gramsci 74, tel. 063224754, www.jfroma.it. KEATS-SHELLEY MEMORIAL HOUSE Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235,www.keats-shelley-house.it.

SWISS INSTITUTE The Swiss Institute offers exhibitions, events and classes dedicated to the culture of Switzerland. Via Ludovisi 48, tel. 064814234, www.istitutosvizzero.it.

INSTITUTO CERVANTES Instituto Cervantes is a cultural institution created to promote the teaching of Spanish language and culture. Via di Villa Albani 16, tel. 068551949, www.cervantes.es.

SWEDISH INSTITUTE OF CLASSICAL STUDIES The Swedish Institute is a research centre dedicated to scientific research in art and archaeology. Via Omero 14, tel. 063201596, www.isvroma.it.

SWISS INSTITUTE The Swiss Institute offers exhibitions, events and classes dedicated to the culture of Switzerland. Via Ludovisi 48, tel. 064814234, www.istitutosvizzero.it.

ROME'S MAJOR

MUSEUMS VATICAN MUSEUMS Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums

Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

STATE MUSEUMS Baths of Diocletian

Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Borghese Museum

Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

22 | December 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Crypta Balbi

Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's modern art collection. Mon closed.

MAXXI

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

MA in ART HISTORY in ROME

PRIVATE MUSEUMS Casa di Goethe

CITY MUSEUMS

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Centrale Montemartini

Chiostro Del Bramante

Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun.

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Galleria Colonna

Capitoline Museums

A 15-MONTH AMERICAN GRADUATE DEGREE PROGRAM IN THE ETERNAL CITY

Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed. Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space until the end of 2019. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.

MATTATOIO

Giorgio de Chirico House Museum

MACRO Asilo

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking.

Keats-Shelley House

Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking.

Museo storico della Liberazione

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it. Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from 1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.

Museo Canonica

MUSJA

Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).

Museo Napoleonico

Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.

Privately owned museum dedicated to modern and contemporary Italian and international art. Via dei Chiavari 7, tel. 0668210213, www.musja.it.

Palazzo Merulana

Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it. Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection, including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation. 09.00-20.00. Tues closed.

www.johncabot.edu/arthistoryma Wanted in Rome • December 2019 | 23 graduateadmissions@johncabot.edu

ROME'S MAJOR

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums

Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

STATE MUSEUMS Baths of Diocletian

Borghese Museum

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

24 | December 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Crypta Balbi

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

MAXXI

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS Casa di Goethe

CITY MUSEUMS

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Centrale Montemartini

Chiostro Del Bramante

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Galleria Colonna

Capitoline Museums

Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

MACRO Asilo

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space until the end of 2019. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.

MATTATOIO

Giorgio de Chirico House Museum

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Keats-Shelley House

Museo storico della Liberazione

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Museo Canonica

MUSJA

Museo Napoleonico

Privately owned museum dedicated to modern and contemporary Italian and international art. Via dei Chiavari 7, tel. 0668210213, www.musja.it.

Palazzo Merulana

Wanted in Rome • December 2019 | 25

ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY

ART GALLERIES

1/9 Unosunove

1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.

A.A.M. Architettura

Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ff-maam.it.

Contemporary Cluster

Visual art, design, architecture, fashion design and beauty apothecary in a 17th-century palace. Via dei Barbieri 7, tel. 0668805928, www.contemporarycluster.com.

C.R.E.T.A.

Cultural association promoting ceramics and the visual, humanistic, musical and culinary arts through workshops, exhibitions and artist residencies. Palazzo Delfini, Via dei Delfini 17, tel. 0689827701, www.cretarome.com.

Dorothy Circus Gallery

Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.

Ex Elettrofonica

This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.

Fondazione Memmo

Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.

Fondazione Pastificio Cerere

This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pastificiocerere.com.

Fondazione Volume!

The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.

26 | December 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Franz Paludetto

Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.

Frutta

This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via dei Salumi 53 tel. 0645508934, www.fruttagallery.com.

Gagosian Gallery

The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

GALLA

Exhibition space designed to showcase original, unconventional art works at affordable prices by artists working in various fields. Via degli Zingari 28, tel. 3476552515, www.facebook.com/GALLAmonti.

Galleria Alessandro Bonomo

Gallery showing the works of important Italian and international visual artists. Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858, www.bonomogallery.com.

Galleria Valentina Bonomo

Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works specifically for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte

Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Galleria della Tartaruga

Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.

Galleria Il Segno

Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.

Galleria Mucciaccia

Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.

Galleria Russo

Operativa Arte Contemporanea

A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.

Pian de Giullari

This historic gallery holds group and solo exhibitions showcasing the work of major 20th-century Italian painters alongside promising new Italian artists. Via Alibert 20, tel. 066789949, www.galleriarusso.it.

Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.

Galleria Varsi

Plus Arte Puls

A dynamic gallery near Campo deâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di Grotta Pinta 38, tel. 066865415, www.galleriavarsi.it.

Gavin Brown's Enterprise

New York gallerist Gavin Brown shows the work of international artists at his Trastevere gallery in a deconsecrated church dating to the eighth century. S. Andrea de Scaphis, Via dei Vascellari 69, www.gavinbrown.biz.

Il Ponte Contemporanea

Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls.com.

RvB ARTS

Rome-based gallery specialising in affordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www.rvbarts.com.

Sala 1

Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via Giuseppe Acerbi 31A, tel. 0653098768, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.

This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.

La Nuova Pesa

S.T. Foto libreria galleria

Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.

Magazzino dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Arte Moderna

Contemporary art gallery that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.

Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri

The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.

T293

Monitor

The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it.

Nero Gallery

The Gallery Apart

Space dedicated to showcasing young international artists working in pop surrealism, lowbrow art, dark art, comic art and surrealism. Via Castruccio Castracane 9, tel. 0627801418, www.nerogallery.com.

This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.

Nomas Foundation

TraleVolte

This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, tel. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.

Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.

Contemporary art gallery focusing on the relationship between art and architecture, hosting solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org.

White Noise Gallery

Based in the S. Lorenzo district, this gallery exhibits unconventional work by young Italian and international artists. Via della Seggiola 9, tel. 066832833, www.whitenoisegallery.it.

Wunderkammern

This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www.wunderkammern.net.

Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin

Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria offers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it. Wanted in Rome â&#x20AC;˘ December 2019 | 27

Join us on Your Journey

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Via di Villa Lauchli 180 00191 Rome, Italy +39 06 362 91012 www.marymountrome.com admissions@marymountrome.com

where to go in Rome WHAT’S ON

Il Mare e L'Isola della Corea at the Korean Cultural Institute. Isola (detail) by Ha Tae Im. See page 47. Wanted in Rome • December 2019 | 29

FESTIVALS

30 | December 2019 • Wanted in Rome

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EXHIBITIONS

EXHIBITIONS savvy manipulation of pigments on paper.” Via di Monserrato 30, tel. 0668804621, www. majartecontemporanea.com.

CORRADO CAGLI: FOLGORAZIONI E MUTAZIONI 8 Nov-6 Jan

An exhibition at Palazzo Cipolla is dedicated to the Italian painter Corrado Cagli (1910-1976), remembered for forming the Scuola Romana art movement in the 1930s. The show features around 200 works including paintings, drawings, sculptures, sketches, theatrical costumes, tapestries and prints. Museo di Palazzo Cipolla, Via del Corso 320, tel 0697625591.

VALADIER: SPLENDORE NELLA ROMA DEL SETTECENTO 30 Oct-2 Feb

Andrey Remnev at Dorothy Circus Gallery.

ANDREY REMNEV 30 Nov-30 Dec

Andrey Remnev’s first European solo show, The Face of a Natural Force, will be held at Dorothy Circus Gallery, under the patronage of the Russian embassy in Rome. The 12 oils on display are inspired by traditional Russian painting, including iconography, as well as Italian classical art, reinterpreted with a contemporary figurative style, rich in mystery and symbolism. See cover this edition. Dorothy Circus Gallery, Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 68805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.it.

ISABELLA DUCROT - CLAIRE DE VIRIEU 14 Nov-18 Jan

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea presents a double personal exhibition comprising recent works by Italian artist Isabella Ducrot and French artist Claire de Virieu, who share themes of vases and the still lifes. The gallery describes the exhibited works as forming a “visual dialogue, an interlacing of the images caught through de Virieu’s creative use of photo techniques in the darkroom with those captured by Ducrot’s

Galleria Borghese pays tribute to the 18th-century Roman silversmith Luigi Valadier with an exhibition of his ornate creations in silver and bronze alongside his original designs. The location of the exhibition is appropriate considering that Valadier was commissioned by the Borghese family to provide sumptuous furnishings for the palace, from fireplaces and furniture to tableware and bronze sculptures. Galleria Borghese, Piazzale Scipione Borghese, tel. 068413979, www.galleriaborghese. beniculturali.it.

ACEA E ROMA: 110 ANNI DI LUCE 24 Oct-26 Jan

A show at Centrale Montemartini, which was once the headquarters of the thermoelectric plant for the production of energy in the capital, tells the story of the links between Rome and ACEA, the municipal company which has managed the city’s lights for 110 years. Centrale Montemartini, Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www. centralemontemartini.org. Wanted in Rome • December 2019 | 31

ALTAN: PIMPA, CIPPUTI E ALTRI PENSATORI 23 Oct-12 Jan

MAXXI dedicates a major exhibition to the Italian cartoonist and satirist Altan, best known for creating Pimpa, the red and white polkadot cartoon puppy, and Cipputi, the factory worker comic strip character. The exhibition will comprise original drawings, illustrations, posters and animated films. MAXXI, Via Guido Reni 4A, www.maxxi.art.

LA MECCANICA DEI MOSTRI. DA CARLO RAMBALDI A MAKINARIUM 22 Oct-6 Jan

Palazzo delle Esposizioni celebrates the career of Oscar-winning Italian special effects artist Carlo Rambaldi (1925-2012). Rambaldi won Academy Awards for Best Visual Effects for King Kong in 1977, Alien in 1980, and E.T. the ExtraTerrestrial in 1983. The exhibition displays material from Rambaldi’s private archive to highlight the role of special effects in Italian and international cinema, from the 1960s to the present-day works of the world-renowned Makinarium special effects group. Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Via Nazionale 194, www.palazzoesposizioni.it.

VALERIO BERRUTI: LA GIOSTRA DI NINA 18 Oct-6 Jan

This short film project by Valerio Berruti centres around a little girl called Nina, a fairground character, and her magical carousel whose traditional horses are replaced with small birds. The installation comprises some 3,000 individual drawings put together sequentially to become frames of a film. In Berruti’s story, Nina is forced to work at the carousel whose little birds represent the freedom that she craves. MAXXI, Via Guido Reni 4A, www.maxxi.art.

ON THE SPIRITUAL MATTER OF ART 17 Oct-8 March

An exhibition at MAXXI of work by leading international artists from

Jour de Fête by Claire de Virieu at MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea.

diverse backgrounds and cultures asks: “What does it mean today to talk about spirituality?” The show is the result of a project that investigates spirituality through the lens of contemporary art and, at the same time, that of the ancient history of Rome, thanks to a selection of archaeological relics on loan from the Vatican Museums, the National Roman Museum, the Capitoline Museums and the National Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia. The artists whose work is exhibited include Francesco Clemente, Jimmie Durham, Yoko Ono and Sean Scully. MAXXI, Via Guido Reni 4A, www.maxxi.art.

ENZO CUCCHI 17 Oct-26 Jan

MAXXI presents a project by Enzo Cucchi, the internationally celebrated artist and leading exponent of Italian Transavanguardia, part of

a worldwide Neo-Expressionist art movement. Cucchi’s project is centred around a cheerful cupid at play, threatened by a poisonous scorpion, in an allegorical work merging art and legend, science and astrology, occult and mystery. Described by MAXXI as an “extraordinary inventor of powerful and enigmatic images”, Cucchi’s work featured on a Wanted in Rome magazine cover in 2011. MAXXI, Via Guido Reni 4A, www.maxxi.art.

MO(NU)MENTUM: ROBERT MORRIS 2015 - 2018 15 Oct-26 Jan

The Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna holds the first Robert Morris show since the death of the American artist in November 2018. Best known as a founding member and leading exponent of American Minimalism, Morris was involved in various other movements such as Wanted in Rome • December 2019 | 33

jewels, ceramics and furniture, the exhibition includes works by modern and contemporary artists including J. M. W. Turner, Renato Guttuso, Andy Warhol, Alberto Burri, Giuseppe Penone and Damian Hirst, highlighting how the rediscovery of buried cities has inspired artists down through the centuries. Scuderie del Quirinale, Via Ventiquattro Maggio 16, www. scuderiequirinale.it.

MICHELANGELO A COLORI 11 Oct-6 Jan

Luigi Valadier at Galleria Borghese.

Land art over the course of his 60-year career. The works on display in Rome were produced in the final years of his life and have never been shown in Europe. The sculptures of human figures made of Belgian linen soaked in resin and placed over models to take on their form, and Boustrophedons, made from carbon fibre. Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, www.gallerianazionale.com.

JAN FABRE: THE RYTHYM OF THE BRAIN 11 Oct-23 Feb

In conjunction with the Romaeuropa Festival, Palazzo Merulana stages an exhibition of work by the multidisciplinary Belgian artist Jan Fabre. The

exhibition will feature site-specific sculptures as well as drawings and performance film, displayed among the museumâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 20th-century Italian paintings. Palazzo Merulana, Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it.

POMPEII AND SANTORINI 11 Oct-6 Jan

This exhibition at the Scuderie del Quirinale features artefacts from the excavations of Akrotiri, a thriving port city on the Greek island of Santorini that was buried by a volcanic eruption in 1628 BC. The Hellenistic finds are constrasted with those from Pompeii, which came to a similarly devastating end some 1,700 years later, in 79 AD. In addition to fragments of frescoes,

La Giostra di Nina by Valerio Berruti at MAXXI.

Palazzo Barberini displays reproductions of a series of drawings by Michelangelo alongside paintings by some of his most important followers such as Marcello Venusti, Lelio Orsi, Marco Pino and Jacopino del Conte. The focus of the exhibition is the degree to which Michelangelo influenced a multitude of artists in the 16th century. Palazzo Barberini, Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. www.barberinicorsini.org.

MEDARDO ROSSO 9 Oct-2 Feb

Palazzo Altemps presents the post-Impressionistic sculptures of Medardo Rosso (1858-1928) among its collection of classical Greek and Roman sculpture. The museum is the first in Rome to honour the Turin artist with an exhibition which features works in wax, plaster and bronze alongside archive photographs. Piazza di S. Apollinare 46, tel. 06684851, www.museonazionaleromano. beniculturali.it.

CANOVA: ETERNA BELLEZZA 9 Oct-15 March

Palazzo Braschi stages an exhibition of works by Italian neoclassical sculptor Antonio Canova (1757-1822), regarded by many as the greatest of the neoclassical artists. Canova is best known for his magnificent marble sculptures such as Amore e Psiche, Tre Grazie and Paolina Borghese. The exhibition includes more than 170 works by Canova and his contemporaries. Piazza Navona 2, tel. 060608, www.museodiroma.it.

34 | December 2019 â&#x20AC;˘ Wanted in Rome

MAXXI explores the spiritual in art.

VAN GOGH E MONET EXPERIENCE 9 Oct-6 Jan

The former barracks building on Via Guido Reni in the Flaminio district hosts a “virtual art” show which brings to life the works of Van Gogh and Monet through virtual reality. The immersive show offers a 360-degree journey through the landscapes of Arles and Giverny and is fun for children. Via Guido Reni 7.

THE DARK SIDE 8 Oct-1 March

Musja, the new private museum in central Rome, launched a trilogy of exhibition entitled The Dark Side, with Who is afraid of the dark? featuring large site-specific installations and works by 13 important international artists including Gregor Schneider, Robert Longo, Hermann Nitsch, Tony Oursler, Monster Chetwynd, Christian Boltanski

and Gino De Dominicis. See Art News page 36. Musja, Via dei Chiavari 7, tel. 0668210213, www.musja.it.

SECRET IMPRESSIONISTS 6 Oct-8 March

Palazzo Bonaparte, a major new exhibition space located where Via del Corso meets Piazza Venezia, holds an exhibition comprising more than 50 works from important private collections. The works, mostly never shown in public before, are by Monet, Renoir, Cézanne, Pissarro, Sisley, Morisot, Gauguin and Signac. See Art News page 42. Palazzo Bonaparte, Piazza Venezia 5, www.palazzobonaparte.it.

CARTHAGO: THE IMMORTAL MYTH 27 Sept-29 March The

history

and

culture

Carthage, one of the most powerful cities of the ancient Mediterranean, is celebrated with a large-scale exhibition at the Colosseum, the Temple of Romulus and the Roman Forum. On display are precious artefacts as well as reconstructions and multimedia installations, highlighting a series of historical events that unite the two great powers of the ancient world. For details see www.parcocolosseo.it.

LA SCUOLA DI LONDRA: OPERE DELLA TATE 26 Sept-23 Feb

Chiostro del Bramante hosts a major exhibition dedicated to the School of London, featuring paintings by Lucian Freud and Francis Bacon, organised in collaboration with the Tate Britain in London. The exhibition comprises 45 paintings, drawings and engravings by six artists: Michael Andrews, Frank Auerbach, Leon Kossoff and Paula Rego, in addition to Freud and Bacon. The figurative works span more than seven decades, from 1945 until 2004. Chiostro del Bramante, Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

COLORI DEGLI ETRUSCHI 11 July-2 Feb Robert Morris at Galleria Nazionale d'Arte Moderna.

Centrale Montemartini holds an exhibition of terracotta treasures Wanted in Rome • December 2019 | 35

Van Gogh e Monet Experience.

from the Etruscan era from the Cerveteri area of north Lazio. The plates and decorative architectural mouldings were recently returned to Italy after a joint operation by the Carabinieri and the culture ministry to combat the illegal trafficking of archaeological finds. Centrale Montemartini, Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www. centralemontemartini.org.

to Maria Lai (1919-2013), considered one of the more individual figures in Italian contemporary art. The show comprises more than 100 works spanning from the 1960s through to her final years, and includes sewn books, sculptures, public works and her celebrated “looms”. Lai represented Italy at the Venice Biennale in 2017. MAXXI, Via Guido Reni 4A, www.maxxi.art.

AI NATI OGGI

L’ARTE RITROVATA

A public art project in Piazza del Popolo celebrates the “universal event of birth”, according to its organisers the MAXXI Museo Nazionale delle Arti XXI secolo. Entitled Ai nati oggi, the installation by artist Alberto Garutti revolves around the square’s lampposts being connected to the maternity ward at Rome’s Gemelli hospital. Each time the light pulses – for about 30 seconds – it signifies the birth of a baby. MAXXI says the installation is dedicated to each new arrival and all newly-born babies that day in Rome. For details see MAXXI website, www.maxxi.art.

The Capitoline Museums mark the 50th anniversary of the establishment of the special Carabinieri unit for the protection of cultural heritage with an exhibition of looted archaeological and artistic treasures returned to Italy. Highlights include a painting of John the Baptist by Guercino, frescoes torn from a Roman villa in the Pompeii area, and bronzes excavated illegally in southern Italy. Palazzo dei Conservatori, Capitoline Museums, Piazza del Campidoglio 1, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini. org.

2 July-31 Dec

and vintage prints, investigating in particular the relationship between Catalano’s photography and performance art, presenting portraits of artists such as Joseph Beuys, Fabio Mauri, Vettor Pisani and Cesare Tacchi. Museo nazionale delle arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4A, www.maxxi.art. See other exhibitions on our website www.wantedinrome.com.

7 June-26 Jan

ELISABETTA CATALANO

April-22 Dec MARIA LAI. HOLDING THE SUN BY 3The MAXXI pays THE HAND Elisabetta Catalano 19 June-12 Jan

On the centerary of the artist’s birth, MAXXI devotes a major exhibition

36 | December 2019 • Wanted in Rome

homage to (1944-2015), a Roman fine-art photographer who specialised in portraits. The exhibition features slides, photos

Medardo Rosso at Palazzo Altemps. Ecce Puer.

CLASSICAL ROME ACCADEMIA FILARMONICA ROMANA PAVEL HAAS QUARTET 5 Dec

The Pavel string quartet plays three Beethoven quartets. The concert is part of the Filarmonica’s new series this season to perform all of Beethoven’s string quartets. The Pavel Haas Quartet was formed in Prague in 2002 and has an excellent performance and recording history, winning five Gramophone Classical Music awards, considered in the world of classical music to be more prestigious than the Grammy awards. The next concert in the series will be on 6 Feb performed by the Quartetto Belcea, followed on 20 Feb by the Jerusalem Quartet. Teatro Argentina, Largo Argentina, www.filarmonicaromana.org.

FILIPPO GORINI 12 Dec

Italian pianist Filippo Gorini plays music by Mozart, Schubert and Schumann. Gorini, who is passionate about Beethoven, was the winner of the first prize Telekom-Beethoven award in Bonn in 2015. His recording

Italian pianist Filippo Gorini at Teatro Argentina on 12 December.

of Beethoven’s Diabelli Variations was released in 2017 by Alpha Classics. Teatro Argentina, Largo Argentina, www.filarmonicaromana.org.

CHOPIN E ...LA SPAGNA 15 Dec

The concert, the second in the series “Chopin e...” in conjunction with students at S. Cecilia, looks at the influence that Chopin had on Spanish musicians and vice versa. The two Spanish musicians are Isaac Albeniz and Manuel de Falla. The pianist is Axel Trolese. Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Sala Casella, Via Flaminia 118, www.filarmonicaromana.org.

GIULIO CESARE: UN EROE BAROCCO 23 Jan

The story of Julius Caesar inspired five baroque operas and this concert, with the counter tenor Raffaele Pe and La Lira di Orfeo Ensemble will explore an anthology on this theme by Bianchi, Giacomelli, Handel, Piccinni and Pollarolo. Teatro Argentina, Largo Argentina, www. filarmonicaromana.org.

ASSOLI V 24 Jan

This is the beginning of the new Assoli series at the Filarmonica to

promote new music and encourage contemporary musicians. The concert on the 24 Jan is called Omaggio a Marco Stroppa, with pianist Erik Bertsch playing music by Kurtag and Stroppa. Stroppa writes computer and electronic music and many of his compositions are inspired by poetry and his interests in sound, perception and cognitive psychology. He has a considerable following in both France and Germany. He was director of the department of musical research at IRCAM (Institut de Recherche et Coordination Acoustique/Musique) in Paris before dedicating himself entirely to composition, research and teaching. Sala Casella, Via Flaminia 118, www.filarmonicaromana.org.

ACCADEMIA S. CECILIA IVO POGORELICH 1 Dec

In this recital Ivor Pogorelicjh plays music by Bach, Beethoven, Chopin and Ravel. Sala S. Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www. auditorium.com.

VERDI’S REQUIEM 28 Nov-2 Dec Mikko

Franck

conducts

Verdi’s

Wanted in Rome • December 2019 | 37

Requiem, with solists Eleonora Buratto, Ekaterina Semenchu, Rene Barbera and Ain Anger. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www. auditorium.com.

GUSTAVO DUDAMEL 5-7 Dec

The music director of the Los Angeles Philarmonic, Gustavo Dudamel, conducts the S. Cecilia orchestra playing Rossini’s Semiramide, Schubert symphony no. 2, and Brahms symphony no. 1. Dudamel and the orchestra will then go on tournee to Turin (10 Dec) Brescia (11 Dec), Udine (12 Dec) and Rimini (14 Dec) where they will perform the same programme. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

EZIO BOSSO 21-22 Dec

Ezio Bosso conducts Beethoven’s symphonies no 5 and 7. Bosso, who suffers from a neurodegenerative syndrome, is a composer and conductor of classical music, as well as being a successful television presenter of classical and orchestral music. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

S. CECILIA STRINGS 8 Jan

The S. Cecilia strings conducted by Luigi Piovano play music by Vivaldi, Bach, Respighi and Rota. Sala Sinopoli, Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

HAYDN’S CREATION 9-11 Jan

Manfred Honeck conducts the S. Cecilia orchestra and chorus performing Haydn’s Creation. Robin Johannsen is the soprano, Maximilian Schmitt the tenor and Tareq Nazmi the bass. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

38 | December 2019 • Wanted in Rome

JANINE JANSEN 16-18 Jan

Violinist Janine Janssen is conducted by Antonio Pappano with the S. Cecilia orchestra, playing Mendelssohn’s violin concerto. Beethoven’s overture Re Stefano and Schumann’s symphony no. 1 are also on the programme. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www. auditorium.com.

LEONIDAS KAVAKOS ENRICO PACE 22 Jan

Leonidas Kavakos violin and Enrico Pace piano play four Beethoven sonatas, 2, 3, 6 and 7. Kavakos returns to S. Cecilia in mid-February to perform with the whole orchestra, conducted by Gianandrea Noseda, playing music by Beethoven and Tchaikovsky. Sala Sinopoli, Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

MARIO BRUNELLO 29 Jan

Cellist Mario Brunello plays and explains 12 of Bach’s works. Sala Sinopoli, Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

ALEXANDER MALOFEEV 30-31 Jan

The Finnish conductor Susanna Malkki leads the 18-year-old Russian pianist and S. Cecilia orchestra playing Tchaikovsky’s piano concerto no. 1, as well as music by the Finnish composer Lotta Wennokoski and Bartok. Wennokoski started her career by composing music for radio plays and short films. Flounce, a short, fast-paced and dramatic piece, which was commissioned by the BBC as the contemporary composition for the Last Night of the Proms in 2017, will be played in this programme. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

ISTITUZIONE UNIVERSITARIO DEI CONCERTI ROBERT MCDUFFIE 3 Dec

Violinist Robert McDuffie, who is well known in Rome for the Rome Chamber Music festival he organises in June each year, performs with the Ensemble LaBarocca to play Vivaldi’s Four Seasons and the premiere in Rome of Philip Glass’s The American Four Seasons. Concerts are at the Aula Magna, Università La Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it.

ENRICO RAVA 80TH ANNIVERSARY 10 Dec

This is an exclusive concert in Rome as part of the world tour to mark the 80th birthday of the great jazz trumpeter. Also taking part in the concert with Rava are Gianluca Petrella, Giovanni Guidi, Francesco Diodati, Gabriele Evangelista, Enrico Morello. Aula Magna, Università La Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it.

QUARTETTO CREMONA 14 Dec

The Cremona quartet continues to explore Mozart’s quartets in this third edition of Explorando Mozart. Aula Magna, Università La Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it.

OTHER VENUES IN ROME

The Oratorio Gonfalone has concerts every Thursday evening in the beautiful church on Via del Gonfalone 32 A, just off Via Giulia. This season it is also organising concerts and guided art tours on 14 Dec. www.oratoriogonfalone.eu. Some of Rome’s English-speaking churches, such as St Paul’s within the Walls, All Saints’ Anglican church, Ponte S. Angelo Methodist church and the Oratorio Caravita also have concerts and opera recitals. S. Agnese in Agone in Piazza Navona and Palazzo Doria Pamphilj are two other places that often offer concerts and opera recitals. See www.romaoperaomnia.com.

ROCK, POP, JAZz CONCERTO DI NATALE 14 Dec

The Vatican’s annual Concerto di Natale takes place in the Paul XI Auditorium at 18.00 on 14 December. The 26th anniversary edition of the charity concert features a line-up including a host of international and Italian stars such as Lionel Richie, Bonnie Tyler, Susan Boyle, Elisa, Simone Cristicchi, Fabio Rovazzi, Noemi and Davide Merlini. The Vatican says that funds raised will go towards helping the Amazon and its indigenous peoples. For details of the concert, which will be screened on Canale 5 on Christmas Eve, see website www.concertodinatale.it. Lionel Richie is part of the line-up for the Vatican's Concerto di Natale.

DANCE MILAN TEATRO ALLA SCALA SYLVIA BY DELIBES 17 Dec- 14 Jan

The 2019-2020 La Scala season begins with a new production of Delibes’ ballet Sylvia, rechoreographed by Manuel Legris for Vienna’s Staadtsballet and first performed there in November 2018. Tchaikovsky admitted that his Swan Lake, which was initially a failure, paled in comparison to Sylvia, which was premiered in Paris in June 1876. The uninspiring choreography by Merante, with whom Delibes had a difficult relationship, blighted the ballet and it was not until the 1950s that it finally came into its own with the new choreography by Frederick Ashton. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

Sylvia by Delibes opens the ballet season at La Scala.

SERATA VAN MANEN - PETIT 24 Jan-8 Feb

Three works by the Dutch dancer and choreographer Hans van Manen, Adagio Hammerclavier (music by Beethoven), Kammerballet (music by Kara Karayev, John Cage and Scarlatti,) and Sarcasmen (music by Prokovief) and two ballets by Roland Petit, Le Combat des Anges (music by Faure) and Le Jeune Homme et la Mort (music by Bach). Van Manen’s Kammerballet and Sarcasmen

have never been performed before at La Scala. Roberto Bolle will dance in Petit’s masterpiece, Le Jeune Homme et la Mort, on 24, 25, 28, 31 Jan and 1 Feb. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.

MADINA

22 March-16 April

This is the world premiere of Madina a new work by Fabio Vacchi with choreography by Mauro Bigonzetti Wanted in Rome • December 2019 | 39

on a libretto by Emmanuelle di Villepin, based on her novel La ragazza che non voleva morire. The story is about a Chechen suicide bomber, Madina, who is forced into becoming a terrorist but decides not to kill. It is a complete work, rather than a study, of dance, theatre, music and the spoken word. La Scala hopes to present one completely new contemporary work each season. Roberto Bolle dances on 22, 24 March and 1, 2, 16 April. La Scala Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.

ROME TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA SWAN LAKE 31 Dec-8 Jan

There is little for ballet fans at the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma until Benjamin Pech’s version of Swan Lake at the end of December, with Polina Seminova (31 Dec, 2 Feb) and Susanna Salvi (3, 4 Feb) as Odette / Odile and Daniel Camargo (31 Dec, 2, 5, 7 Jan) and Claudio

Cocino (3, 4, 8 Jan) as Prince Seigfreid. Apart from a change in the dancers this is a re-run of the opening of last season at Rome’s opera house. Pech’s interpretation of the ballet, which he danced many times at the Paris Opera before he was brought to Rome as the master of ballet by Eleonora Abbagnato, centres on the friendship and betrayal of Siegfried and Benno, eliminating the role of Rothbart. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Teatro Costanzi, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it.

SERATA JEROME ROBBINS 30 Jan-05 Feb

Glass Pieces (music by Philip Glass), In the Night (music by Chopin) and The Concert (music by Chopin) are the three pieces chosen for this Jerome Robbins compendium. Rome stars Rebecca Bianchi, Claudio Cocino and Susanna Salvini dance in all three works. Eleonora Abbagnato, the head of dance at the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, and Zachary Catazaro from the New York City Ballet make up the third couple in In the Night. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Teatro

Costanzi, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it.

IL CORSARO 1-8 March

This is a new version of Le Corsaire, choreographed by Jose Carlos Martinez, who returns to the original, taking out many of the additions that have been made since the ballet was first danced in 1856, reducing it to two rather than the usual three acts. Martinez, another dancer / choreographer from the Paris Opera and is now the artistic director of the Spanish National Ballet. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Teatro Costanzi, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it.

TEATRO OLIMPICO LO SCHIACCIANOCI 3 Dec

The Balletto di Milan dances this classic Christmas work by Tchaikovsky. The choreography by Federico Veratti is faithful to the original. Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.teatroolimpico.it.

FESTIVALS PIÙ LIBRI PIÙ LIBERI 4-8 Dec

The 17th edition of the national fair for small and medium Italian book publishing houses takes place once again at the Nuvola conference centre in EUR. Piú libri piú liberi offers a five-day literary programme of conferences, lectures, readings, theatre workshops, performances and presentations. Supported by the Italian culture ministry, the annual event was founded in 2002 by Italy’s small publishers’ association to give smaller publishing houses much needed visibility. 10.0020.00. Roma Convention Center – La Nuvola, Viale Asia 40, www. plpl.it.

40 | December 2019 • Wanted in Rome

The Harlem Gospel Choir will perform at this year's Roma Gospel Festival.

ROMA GOSPEL FESTIVAL 22-31 Dec

Billed as the most important festival of its genre in Europe, the Roma Gospel Festival celebrates its 24th anniversary this year, at Rome’s Auditorium Parco della Musica. Directed by Mario Ciampà, the

festival features numerous choirs, often from the US. This year’s programme includes the Chicago Mass Choir (22-23 Dec), the Harlem Gospel Choir (25 Dec) and Danell Daymon & Greater Works (30-31 Dec). For full details see Auditorium website. Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

MERCOLEDÌ 1 GENNAIO 2020 – DALLE 15.30 ALLE 17.30 PIAZZA DEL POPOLO – VIA DEL CORSO – PIAZZA DI SPAGNA – VIA DEL BABUINO romeparade.com @romeparade

Impressionisti segreti at Palazzo Bonaparte. Au bord de la Seine à Paris. Le Pont-Marie vu depuis le Quai d’Anjou (c. 1875) by Camille Pissarro. Pérez Simón Collection, Mexico.

ART NEWS IMPRESSIONISTI SEGRETI REVIEW

Palazzo Bonaparte launched as an exhibition venue in Piazza Venezia with a show titled Impressionisti Segreti The exhibition is held in what are now the beautifully restored first-floor living quarters of Madama Letizia Ramolino, Napoleon’s mother. It includes 51 works by Impressionist and Post-Impressionist artists, mostly from private collections, never before exhibited in Italy. The umbrella term ‘Impressionism’, coined by critic Louis Leroy, takes its origin from Monet’s painting Impression, sunrise (1872), exhibited in 1874 in the first exhibition of a group of relatively young painters who defined themselves simply – and boldly – as ‘independent’. The work of these ‘independents’ evolved from an interest in naturalism and realism as an artistic and literary movement (Courbet, Zola, Flaubert), which can be glimpsed in some of the works of Pissarro On the bank of the Seine, Paris. c. 1875 and Caillebotte Interior, woman at the window, c. 1880 both of which are in this exhibition. This small exhibition is divided into roughly three sections, Landscapes, Life in Paris and Portraits, with works from 16 different artists, some of whom are less well known to the general public than their French counterparts, such as the Italian Federico Zandomeneghi (Sul Divano) and the Belgian Theo van Rysselberghe (Portrait of Irma Sethe playing the violin) both of which are on display. Several works by two of the most important women artists of the period, Berte Morisot and Eva Gonzales are also included. The works in the exhibition come mainly from private collections (most of which are not named), emphasising the importance of enlightened collectors for the success of experimental art of the late 19th century. In France, Impressionist and Post-Impressionist painters, derided by many critics and most of the public, were

42 | December 2019 • Wanted in Rome

appreciated only by a small number of enthusiasts; official recognition of Impressionism would only come at the beginning of the 20th century. The exhibition can be visited at Palazzo Bonaparte (Piazza Venezia 5, corner Via del Corso), Mon-Fri 09.00-19.00, Sat-Sun 09.00-21.00. Jacopo Benci

ART WORLD MOURNS PASSING OF OVIDIO JACOROSSI

The Roman entrepreneur and art collector Ovidio Jacorossi died in Rome in late October, aged 85, just weeks after opening Musja, the privately-run museum dedicated to contemporary art in the city centre. The museum, Jacorossi’s “dream come true”, launched on 9 October with an exhibition titled Chi ha paura del buio?, the first in a trilogy of shows under the theme The Dark Side. The Jacorossi family’s entrepreneurial adventure began on the site of the museum on Via dei Chiavari when Ovidio's grandfather Agostino opened a small coal shop in 1922. In the subsequent decades the Jacorossi Group made a fortune from the fuel and energy sectors, diversifying also into logistics, heating and the management of public buildings. In the 1970s Ovidio Jacorossi began to build his vast collection of Italian art, comprising paintings, drawings and sculpture by Italy’s greatest 20th-century artists, from Balla to de Chirico, Severini to Sironi. Musja paid tribute to its founder as a “visionary man” who dedicated his life to the “diffusion of art as a fundamental tool for the growth of the individual and the community.” Located on Via dei Chiarvari 7, Musja is open Tues-Fri 11.0019.00 and Sat-Sun 11.00-20.00. Andy Devane

STUDY ABROAD AND DEGREE PROGRAMS IN ROME

www.johncabot.edu admissions@johncabot.edu

TOSCA BY PUCCINI 12-22 Dec

A repeat of the Alessandro Talevi traditional rendering of Puccini’s opera. Conducted by Pier Giorgio Morandi with Liudmyla Monastyrska and Monica Zanettin as Tosca, Giorgio Berrugi and Diego Cavazzin as Cavaradossi and Claudio Sgura as Scarpia. Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it.

opera

Francesco Meli has been chosen as Cavaradossi to sing opposite Anna Netrebko in Tosca at La Scala.

MILAN TOSCA BY PUCCINI 7 Dec-8 Jan

The La Scala season opens with Puccini’s opera Tosca in a new version by Davide Livermore and conducted as usual by Riccardo Chailly. Anna Netrebko, who has sung La Scala’s opening opera for three seasons, takes the part of Tosca. She usually sings opposite her husband Yusif Eyvazov but here the part of Cavaradossi will be sung by Francesco Meli (he will sing three other La Scala operas this season), and Luca Salsi takes the part of Scarpia. Chailly now adds Tosca to the list of other Puccini operas (Turandot, La Fanciulla del West, Manon and Madame Butterfly) that he has been re-examining for Milan’s opera house. Compared with Verdi and Rossini operas Puccini’s works are often re-staged without much critical research into new insights revealed by modern musicology. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

ROMEO E JULIETTE BY CHARLES GOUNOD 15 Jan-16 Feb

This is a Metropolitan Opera production, conducted by Lorenzo Viotti, with Diana Damrau and Vittorio Grigolo. Grigolo, the popular Italian tenor, caused considerable controversy last September when he was temporarily under investigation by London’s Royal Opera House

44 | December 2019 • Wanted in Rome

(ROH) for allegedly groping one of the chorus during a ROH tour in Japan. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

IL TROVATORE BY VERDI 6-29 Feb

Nicola Luisotti conducts Verdi’s Il Trovatore in a co-production with the Salzburg festival, which was first performed in Salzburg in 2014. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

ROME TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA LE VEPRES SICILIENNES BY VERDI 10-22 Dec

The new season opens with Daniele Gatti, for the first time in his new role as musical director, conducting Verdi’s Le Vêpres Siciliennes, which hasn’t been seen at Rome’s opera for over 20 years. Le Vêpres Siciliennes is directed by Argentinian Valentina Carrasco who was responsible for the production of Carmen at the Baths of Caracalla two years ago. This will be only the second time that the opera has been performed in its original French at the Rome opera. It is the first of the three operas Gatti will conduct this season (I Capuleti e Montecchie by Bellini from 23 Jan10 Feb) directed by Denis Krief, and then later in the season The Rake’s Progress by Stravinsky (19-29 Oct) directed by Graham Vick. Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it.

I CAPULETI E MONTECCHIE BY BELLINI 23 Jan-10 Feb

Daniele Gatti conducts this opera, which is rarely performed in Rome. It is directed by Denis Krief, who directed the version of Aida this year for the opera house’s summer season at the Baths of Caracalla. Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it.

EUGENIE ONEGIN BY TCHAIKOVSKY 18-29 Feb

Tchaikovsky’s opera will be conducted by James Conlon, directed by Robert Carson. This is Carson’s second production for Rome’s opera theatre (the first was Idomeneo by Mozart in November). The production was created by the Canadian Opera and premiered by the Metropolitan Opera in New York. Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it

TURANDOT BY PUCCINI 25 March-5 April

This will be Ai Weiwei’s first experience at directing opera and his debut in Rome. He will also be designing the sets and the costumes. Turandot, which is set in China, has been close to Weiwei’s heart since he and his half-brother appeared as extras in Zeffirelli’s version of the opera at the Met Opera in 1987. Weiwei said that his version will be an opera with clear cultural and political references to the contemporary world, referring to Hong Kong in particular. To have managed to sign Weiwei to direct one of its operas is clearly another big plus for the Rome opera house, following its engagement of the South African William Kentridge. Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it

Theatre MARY POPPINS IL MUSICAL 17 Oct-6 Jan

After seven months of almost sellout shows in Milan, the musical celebrating the world’s best-known nanny comes to the Teatro Sistina in Rome. Mary Poppins il Musical is the Italian version of the Sherman Brothers’ show based on the classic children’s book and Disney movie, featuring many of the songs from the 1964 film. The musical is staged from Thursday to Saturday at 20.30, with mattinee shows at 16.00 on Saturday and Sunday. For tickets see website. Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsistina.it.

TREND: NEW FRONTIERS OF THE BRITISH SCENE 17 Oct-21 Dec

The 18th edition of Trend, the drama festival that introduces an Italian audience to established and emerging British talent, returns to Teatro Belli in Trastevere. The programme contains award-winning works from noted playwrights as well as recent plays by younger authors, translated into Italian. The programme continues into December with For Once by Tim Prince (3-5 Dec), I’m a Minger by Alex Jones (7-8 Dec), Stripped by Stephen Clark (10-12 Dec), Out of Love (14-15 Dec),

Mary Poppins il Musical at Teatro Sistina.

Diary of a Madman by Al Smith (1718 Dec) and 4.48 Psychosis by Sarah Kane (20-21 Dec). For details check website. Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, www.teatrobelli.it.

ARTS IN ENGLISH 7-8 Dec

Arts in English presents Forever 69, an original musical show to celebrate some of the life-changing events and music of 1969, written by Ailleen Moir. The story of the family-friendly show is told, in English, through the eyes of 16-year-old Micky and her grandmother, and features the music of David Bowie, The Beatles, Bob Dylan and Janis Joplin. Sat 17.00, 21.00. Sun 17.00. To reserve email artsinenglish@ virgilio.it or tel 330926387. Teatro in Portico, Circonvallazione Ostiense 195.

PRISCILLA LA REGINA DEL DESERTO 12-15 Dec

Based on the smash-hit movie Priscilla, Queen of the Desert, this Tony Award-winning musical follows

ACADEMIES AMERICAN ACADEMY IN ROME 15 Oct-8 Dec

In celebration of its 125th anniversary, the American Academy in Rome (AAR) is inviting leading artists and thinkers to investigate the impact of the city of Rome, its artefacts and its narratives. Exhibitions, publications and public programmes will explore the presence of history in the context of

46 | December 2019 • Wanted in Rome

a more global, technologically linked era. It will investigate how encounters with Rome resonate throughout the arts and the humanities in the US and around the world. Curated by Peter Benson Miller, the exhibition Encounters revisits some decisive interdisciplinary encounters at AAR, exploring their long term impact on American culture across a variety of

the story of three friends who hop aboard a battered old bus in search of love and friendship. Directed by Matteo Gastaldo, the production at Teatro Brancaccio features more than 500 costumes and a soundtrack that includes hits such as I Will Survive, It’s Raining Men and Go West. The Italian version of the musical has been seen by 350,000 spectators. Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231, www.teatrobrancaccio.it.

DISNEY ON ICE: FROZEN 16-18 Jan

Aimed primarily at children, this touring show on ice features figure skaters portraying the characters from the hugely popular Disney movie Frozen. It tells the tale of a fearless princess who sets off on a daring journey to find her estranged sister, whose icy powers have inadvertently trapped their kingdom in eternal winter. The show takes place at Palazzo dello Sport in EUR. For tickets see TicketOne website, www.ticketone.it.

fields. In particular, the exhibition examines the interplay between visual art, music, literature and architecture fuelled by important exchanges set against and engaging the city of Rome, its monuments and urban spaces. American Academy in Rome, tel. 0658461, www.aarome.org.

BRITISH SCHOOL OF ROME 6-14 Dec

The British School at Rome’s annual December exhibition of works by its current Fine Arts awardholders: Mariam Gulamhussein,

Sikelela Owen, Bea Bonafini, Marlee McMahon, Holly Davey, Tal Regev, Jacob Wolff and Max Fletche. The show opens on 6 Dec, 18.3021.00, and can be visted Mon–Sat, 16.30–19.00, until 14 Dec. British School at Rome, Via Gramsci 61, tel. 063264939, www.bsr.ac.uk.

CASA DI GOETHE 6 Oct-9 Feb

Casa di Goethe presents Sguardi sull’Italia - 1780-1850, an exhibition featuring a selection of its precious drawings and engravings by 18thand 19th-century artists from England, France, Germany and Italy. The landscapes and urban views on display include sepia drawings by Christoph Heinrich Kniep and engravings by Samuel Bellin, Georg Hackert and Giovanni Battista Piranesi. A highlight of the show is a view of Piazza del Popolo and its surroundings from a hot-air balloon, published around 1850 as a colour lithograph by Louis Jules Arnout. Casa di Goethe, Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www.casadigoethe.it.

KEATS-SHELLEY HOUSE 8 Oct-23 Feb

The Keats-Shelley House presents an exhibition that explores the parallels in the lives and works of John Keats

books ST PATRICK’S LIBRARY CLOSING DOWN BOOKSALE The St Patrick’s English-Language Lending Library, which is better remembered by Rome’s expats as the S. Susanna library, is to close its doors for good in February 2020. Founded at the former American parish of S. Susanna more than 60 years ago, the library moved in its entirety with the American Catholic community in 2017 to its current location at St Patrick’s Church, near Via Veneto and the US embassy. Over the decades the library was staffed by the Paulist Fathers and dedicated volunteers and parishioners,

and Virginia Woolf. Entitled From Hampstead to Rome, the show features wonderfully simple single-line drawings by Roberto Einaudi with quotations from the works of both. The exhibition will remain open to visitors during the temporary closure of the museum and library, which reopen on 24 February after the delicate restoration of the ceiling. Keats-Shelley House, Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.org.

KOREAN CULTURAL INSTITUTE 28 Nov-31 Dec

The Korean Cultural Institute hosts Il Mare e L’Isola della Corea, an exhibition held in collaboration with La Mer et L’Île, a non-profit company which raises awareness of the East Sea and Dokdo Islands through classical music, fine arts and literature. La Mer et L’Île artists explore Dokdo Islands each spring. They compose, play music, write poetry, design choreographic dances and organise exhibitions inspired by Dokdo and the East Sea, exploring and drawing inspiration from these natural wonders. This exhibition features the work of eight celebrated Korean painters: Yongsun Suh, Sun-doo Kim, Byung-wook Oh, Chong-song Lee, Tae-im Ha, Joo-yeon Lee, Hyun-joo Jang, Il-young Jeong.

who continued their work in newlyrestored rooms below St Patrick’s church which had been vacated by the Irish Augustinians due to lack of priests. The library also existed thanks to the generous donations of used and new books from members. However over the last two years the library’s paying members and volunteers have dwindled significantly. The rector of St Patrick’s Church, Fr Greg Apparcel, told Wanted in Rome that the parish council had come to the “very sad” decision to close the library on 29 February, adding that there was “no alternative”. “With Amazon, Kindles, iPhones and other electronic means to read, we have basically become a used book store, which is not our purpose”, Fr Apparcel said. Before it closes down, the library will have a pre-Christmas used book sale until 15 December during opening

Il Mare e L'Isola della Corea at the Korean Cultural Institute.

Mon-Fri 10.00-18.00. Istituto Culturale Coreano, Via Nomenatana 12, www. italia.korean-culture.org.

SWISS INSTITUTE OF ROME 11 Oct-19 Jan

Entitled Retour à Rome, this “nonconventional installation” offers a different take on the concept of landscape being associated traditionally with painting. The exhibition toys with the idea that the “moving image”, or film, is the medium best placed today to evoke memories associated with landscapes. The participating artists are Anne-Laure Franchette, Vidya Gastaldon, Clemens Klopfenstein, Marie Matusz, Gianni Motti, Uriel Orlow, Denis Savary, Rico Scagliola & Michael Meier, and Ian Wooldridge. Istituto Svizzero, Via Ludovisi 48, tel. 06420421, www.istitutosvizzero.it.

hours: Sun 10.00-12.30, Wed 15.0018.00 and Thurs 11.00-15.30. Via Boncompagni 31.

OTHERTHURSDAY AT OTHERWISE

Otherwise, the English-language bookshop near Piazza Navona, hosts a weekly programme of cultural events every Thursday evening. OtherThursday offers live music, tandem language exchange, English bookclubs, short film screenings, literary and art events, poetry slam, art and photography displays. The cultural programme changes weekly and can be followed via the Facebook page of the independent bookshop. Otherwise, which opened two years ago, stocks North American editions of novels, non-fiction titles, essay collections and literary journals in English. Via del Governo Vecchio 80. Wanted in Rome • December 2019 | 47

lassical lassical

The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a definitive list of all the music that is available in the city. The following is a list of the main musical There are also concerts in many of the associations in Rome but it is not a definitive churches and sometimes in the museums. list of all the music that is available in the city. There are also concerts in many of the Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della churches and sometimes in the museums. Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Auditorium Conciliazione, ViaP. de della Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Accademia Filarmonica Teatro Auditorium Parco della Romana, Musica, Viale P. de Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro starts on 15 Oct Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season concerts Parco della Musica. The startsat onAuditorium 15 Oct newAccademia season startsS. on 5Cecilia, Oct www.santacecilia.it. All concerts Universitaria at Auditorium Parco della Musica. Istituzione dei Concerti, AulaThe newUniversità season starts on 5 Oct www.concertiiuc.it Magna, la Sapienza,

Istituzione Universitaria deiGonfalone Concerti,32a, Aula Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it www.oratoriogonfalone.com Oratorio delMethodist Gonfalone, Via delPiazza Gonfalone 32a, RomeConcerts, Church, Ponte www.oratoriogonfalone.com S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it RomeConcerts, Piazza Ponte Roma Sinfonietta, Methodist AuditoriumChurch, Ennio Morricone, S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Roma Auditorium Roma Tre Sinfonietta, Orchestra, some concertsEnnio are atMorricone, Teatro Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others at Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are are at Teatro the Aula Magna, Piazza Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, 8, Palladium, Bartolomeo Romano Universita Roma Tre, Via while Ostienze teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, others234, are at www.r30.org the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Tre,festivals Via Ostienze 234, There are oftenRoma concerts, and opera www.r30.org recitals in several churches in Rome.

often concerts, festivals and153, opera All There Saints' are Anglican Church, Via Babuino recitals in several churches in Rome. www.allsaintsrome.org All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. www.allsaintsrome.org Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7 Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com

Oratorio del Caravita, Caravita St Paul's Within the Walls,Via Viadella Nazionale and7 the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the S. Agnese Sagrestia del Borromini, corner ofin ViaAgone, Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it Piazza Navona S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Palazzo PiazzaDoria NavonaPamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum Serenades by Night Dinner throughout and Opera dinner afterwards. Viawith del Corso 305, the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum www.doriapamphilj.com and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com Jan 2019 • Wanted in Rome 5048 |48 Oct 2018 • Wanted Rome | |December 2019 •in Wanted in Rome

MUSIC MUSIC THEATR THEATRE CINEMA CINEMA VENUES VENUES

MUSIC THEATRE CINEMA DANCE OPERA

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inema inema

The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wantedshow in Rome website for The following cinemas movies in English weekly updates. or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for Adriano, Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 weeklyPiazza updates. Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 0686391361 Barberini, Piazza BarberiniMastroianni 24-26, 1, tel. Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello 0686391361 tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it 068553485 Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 068553485 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 066861068 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 066861068 Odeon, Piazza Stefano 22, tel. Nuovo Sacher, LargoJacini Ascianghi 1, 0686391361 tel. 065818116

Space Moderno, Piazza della 44, tel. Odeon, Piazza Stefano JaciniRepubblica 22, tel. 0686391361 06892111 Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebec06892111 chini 3-5, tel. 06892111 Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111

ddance oopera p pop r ock r ance

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano www.teatrovascello.it 17, www.teatroolimpico.it

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it

pera

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

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Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Concert venues ranging from major pop and Alexanderplatz, 9, tel. 0683775604 rock groups to Via jazzOstia and acoustic gigs. www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org Angelo Mai Via Atlantico delle Terme di Atlantico, VialeAltrove, dell’Oceano 271d, Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it

Atlantico, Viale Atlantico Auditorium Parcodell’Oceano della Musica, Viale 271d, P. de tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com Auditorium della Viale de Casa del Jazz, Parco Viale di PortaMusica, Ardeatina 55,P.tel. Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com 06704731, www.casajazz.it

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

heatre heatre

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net www.teatrobelli.it Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobelli.it www.teatrobrancaccio.it Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatrobrancaccio.it www.teatroghione.it Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. www.teatroghione.it 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net

Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com Lanificio 159,ViaVia di Pietralata 159, Live Alcazar, Cardinale Merry del Valtel. 14, 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com Live Alcazar, Merry del 35, Val 14, Monk Club, Via ViaCardinale Giuseppe Mirri tel. tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com 0664850987, www.monkroma.it Monk Club, ViaPiazzale Giuseppe Mirri 35,1, tel. PalaLottomatica, dello Sport tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it

PalaLottomatica, Piazzale Sport 1, tel. Rock in Roma, Via Appiadello Nuova 1245, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it www.teatrosangenesio.it Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsiwww.teatrosangenesio.it stina.it Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.ilsistina.it www.teatrovascello.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Vittoria,www.teatrovascello.it Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. tel. 065898031, 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it 51 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome

ddance oopera p pop r ock r ance

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

pera

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

ock

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Atlantico, Viale Atlantico Auditorium Parcodell’Oceano della Musica, Viale 271d, P. de tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com Auditorium della Viale de Casa del Jazz, Parco Viale di PortaMusica, Ardeatina 55,P.tel. Coubertin,www.casajazz.it tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com 06704731,

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

heatre heatre

Monk Club, ViaPiazzale Giuseppe Mirri 35,1, tel. PalaLottomatica, dello Sport tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it PalaLottomatica, Piazzale Sport 1, tel. Rock in Roma, Via Appiadello Nuova 1245, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

, tel.

3432,

w.ilsi-

, tel.

Wanted in Rome | December 2017

RO MA

WANTED junior inROME Season’s Greetings from the Creative Writing and Visual Arts Students of St Stephen’s School. For this special Holiday Issue of Wanted in Rome Junior, we are proud to present new writing by Moira Egan’s Creative Writing students. These festive pieces are accompanied by collages (based on a “poemagranate” collaboration with Creative Writing) created in the Arts Classes of Lisa Fedich, the newest addition to the St Stephen’s Arts Faculty. We wish you all a very happy and inspiring holiday season! Nicholas by Antonella Perna, Grade 11, Age 16

Visions by Phoebe Ciocca, Grade 9, Age 14

Snowflakes rest on teeth and tongue and nose while pomegranate flames waltz, merry tunes turn the dainty crystals to mistletoe pearls, dousing the air in vanilla and mint.

Crimson orbs float lazily along the twinkling skyscraper, an ornate star at its top, beaming down at the cozy room, reflecting the sights of the evening…

Frothy-sweet smiles intertwine under Cupid’s bough and stolen moments keep secrets, fragility in whispers, euphoria in life and moonshine. Candied glances glaze over frosty eyes, dancing, entranced in moments like memory, joined by tiny lights, Elton John, the white wink of evening, a harmony aglow in carolled company.

Forbidden treasures adorned by crisp, gaudy masks entice giggling children: glowing, rosy cheeks hoist tiny, prying eyes sparkling at golden ribbon locks. Sultry jazz notes flow off a sleek grand piano diffusing amongst the muffled chatter of tipsy party guests, an elegant plethora of black suits and lustrous dresses. Crystal glasses scattered across wooden furniture glint with mischief as their interiors drain: warm, creamy eggnog spiked with a smokey, fiery nectar of bliss. Silver platters glide in, bearing small bronze tokens dusted in powder white sugar, fresh ginger biscuits. smooth music plays on, time slipping by, unnoticed.

Collage by Phoebe Ciocca, Grade 9, age 14.

52 | December 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Suddenly, digits 59 flip to 00. The children lift their gazes to the indigo night. A figure flashes above, guided by a faint red light.

Winter’s Warmth by Luca Di Cicco, Grade 11, Age 16 A snowfall in Rome is a pretty rare event. Adults tend to hate it, though. They aren’t stunned by the beauty of the innocently pure mantle that covers every single grey atom in the streets and the buildings. Traffic is their only concern. Sorry, I have to correct myself. The traffic and their children’s curiosity are their only concerns. The children don’t understand the banality of life yet. The adults who still don’t understand it are beardedchildren in society’s eyes, while the kids who have prematurely lost their ability to dream are seen as young adults. What a crazy world. Christmas is even worse, because it repeats itself every year. Is there really anyone who believes in Jesus's rebirth? Could be. The kids think mainly about the gifts and

being with the family. The bearded-children only think about being with the family. The adults just think about the gifts they are obliged to buy. It’s funny, when you think that it’s those same adults who really continue this social convention. Who cares about the hug of your loving mother and the best tiramisu flavour ever when you have gifts? No one! I’m starting to comprehend we are losing this world... Do you want to know a secret? We are the real adults. We know the warmth of the snow’s hug. We know the wrapping paper’s perfume of joy and we love the sound of our grandma’s smile. While the clear drops of happiness frame society’s decay, I share my gifts with the bearded-kids and I enjoy every single moment that winter has kindly offered me, warming my disillusioned limbs. Because you don’t need to be hot to feel warm.

It’s that time by Emma Cardillo, Grade 9, Age 14 It’S begUN - Rooftops craving frosted raindrops. Tears of joy drizzling amongst the evergreen mist. Streams of frozen flakes getting ready to ski, Through narrow alleyways; covering them- top - bottom. Filling any emptiness with pure bliss Infant chilly ICICLES get ready to drop down Pleasing whispers of gentle piano keys Locked and ready, ready to unravel Radiant beams jumping euphorically From tile to tile reaching out to every Warm home, their luminescence. But Just Not Yet Coats’ cosy embrace blasting its tune Across the city’s vast carpet of snow Just at a glance from Reality Loyal little leaves curling up, eager to be unwrapped by the tender smell of that swift breeze But Just Not Yet Waiting for the Prussian blue’s approval It lies patiently about to show that consent we have all been Waiting For A split Second A blink Of an eye It’s that time

Collage by Emma Cardillo, Grade 9, age 14. St Stephen's School, Via Aventina 3, tel. 065750605, www.sssrome.it.

WANTED IN ROME JUNIOR: For young writers and artists Wanted in Rome is accepting creative contributions from students in all international schools in Rome. Articles on topics related to either the student’s life in Rome or their school projects can be submitted by their class teachers. The work should be no more than 1,000 words and all contributions should contain the name, age and school of the students. We also accept illustrations. Any class teachers who would like to propose a project please contact editorial@wantedinrome.com.

Wanted in Rome • December 2019 | 53

Rome’s street artart capital continues to to grow with newnew murals by important Italian and Rome'sreputation reputationasasananimportant important street capital continues grow with murals by important Italian international streetstreet artistsartists appearing all the all time. the works located the suburbs, often far often from the and international appearing theMost time.ofMost of theare works are in located in the suburbs, far centre. Here is where to is find Rome’s mainthe street artstreet projects murals. from the centre. Here where to find main artand projects and murals around Rome. Esquilino Esquilino Murals Murals byby Alice Alice Pasquini, Pasquini, Gio Gio Nicola Pistone, Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Alessandrini, Diamond. Diamond. Casa Casa dell’Architettura, dell'Architettura, Fanti 47. Piazza PiazzaMafredo Manfredo Fanti 47. Marconi Marconi The The M.A.G.R. M.A.G.R. (Museo (Museo Abusivo Abusivo Gestito Gestitodai daiRom), Rom),a aproject projectby byFrench French Seth is located in a street artistSeth street artist is located in a former Via Antonio former soap factory soap factory on Viaon Antonio AvogaAvogadro, opposite dro, opposite Ostiense'sOstiense’s landmark Gasometro. details see landmark Gasometro. For For details see www.999contemporary.com. www.999contemporary.com. Museodell’Altro dell’Altroe edell’Altrove dell’Altrovedidi Museo Metropoliz Metropoliz This former former meat meat factory factory inin the the This outskirts of of Rome art outskirts Rome isis now nowa astreet street museum being home hometoto art museumasaswell well as as being some200 200squatting squatters,migrants. many of The them some migrants. The Museo dell’Altrodi e Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove dell’Altroveor diMAAM, Metropoliz, or MAAM, Metropoliz, is only open only open Saturdays, and andon features the work onis Saturdays, the work of moreincluding than 300 offeatures more than 300 artists artists including Gio Edoardo Kobra,Edoardo Gio Kobra, Pistone, Pistone, Sten&Lex Diamond.and See Sten&Lex, Pablo and Echaurren MAAM Facebook page for details. Borondo. See MAAM Facebook page Via Prenestina 913. for details. Via Prenestina 913. Ostiense Ostiense Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Porto Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Fluviale. Porto Fluviale. Fish’n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via Fish’n’Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale. del Porto Wall of Fluviale. Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali. Magazzini Shelley by Generali. Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense Via Ostiense. underpass, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense. Pigneto Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Pigneto Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71. Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.

54 | December 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Via Via Fanfulla Fanfulla da da Lodi. Lodi. 2501 Via Fortebraccio. Fortebraccio. mural on 2501 mural on Via Blu by Sten Blu Landscape Landscape by Sten & & Lex. Lex. Via Via Francesco Baracca. Francesco Baracca. Prati Prati Anna Magnaniportrait portrait by Diavù. Anna Magnani by Diavù. Nuovo Nuovo MercatoViaTrionfale, Via Mercato Trionfale, Andrea Doria. Andrea Doria. Daniza the bear by Daniza the bear by ROA. Via Sabotino. ROA. Via Sabotino. Primavalle Primavalle The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via Cristoforo Numai. Cristoforo Numai. the Minotaur by Theseus stabbing Theseus stabbing the Bembo. Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo. Quadraro Quadraro Tunnel murals by Mr THOMS and Gio Tunnel byMure. Mr THOMS and Pistone. murals Via Decio Gio Decio Mure. Via del NidoPistone. di Vespe Via by Lucamaleonte. Nido didel Vespe by Lucamaleonte. Via Monte Grano. Monte del Baby Hulkdel byGrano. Ron English. Via dei Baby PisoniHulk 89. by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89. Rebibbia Rebibbia Murals by Blu. Via Ciciliano and Via Murals Via by Blu. Palombini (Casal dèCiciliano Pazzi). and Via Palombini dè Pazzi). Welcome to(Casal Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Metro B station. Metro B station. S. Basilio S.SanBa Basilio features large-scale works on SanBa features large-scale works the façades of social-housing blockson in the of social-housing blocks the façades disadvantaged north-east suburb of in the disadvantaged north-east S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regenerasuburb of S.includes Basilio works near Rebibbia. tion project by Italian The project artistsregeneration Agostino Iacurci, Hitnesincludes and Blu works by Spain's ItalianLiqen. artistsViaAgostino alongside Maiolati, Iacurci, Hitnes and BluVia alongside Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Arcevia, Spain’s Via Treia.Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, Via Treia. S. Giovanni Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via S.Apulia Giovanni corner of Via Farsalo. Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.

It’s aa New NewDay Daybyby Alice Pasquini. It’s Alice Pasquini. Via Via Anton Ludovico. Anton Ludovico. S. Lorenzo Lorenzo S. AlicePasquini. Pasquini. ViaSabelli. dei Sabelli. Alice Via dei Feminicidemural mural Elisa Feminicide by Elisaby Caracciolo. Caracciolo. Via Dei Sardi.Via Dei Sardi. Borondo. Via Viadei deiVolsci Volsci159. 159. Borondo. Mural by by Agostino AgostinoIacurci Iacurci on Mural on the the Istituto Superiore di Lattanzio, Vittorio Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia. Via Aquilonia. Pietro S. Pietro UmaCabra Cabra Bordalo II. Stazione Uma byby Bordalo II. Stazione di S. Pietro, di Monte Pietro, Clivo del Monte del di S. Clivo di Gallo. Gallo. Testaccio Hunted Wolf by ROA. Via Galvani. Testaccio #KindComments AliceVia Pasquini, Via Hunted Wolf bybyROA. Galvani. Volta, Testaccio market. #KindComments by Alice Pasquini, Via Volta, Testaccio market. Tor Pignattara Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta. Tor Pignattara Etnik. Via Bartolomeo Perestrello 51. Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta. Coffee Etam Cru. Via Ludovico Etnik.Break ViabyBartolomeo Perestrello Pavoni. 51. Coﬀee Break by Etam Cru. Via Tom SawyerPavoni. by Jef Aerosol. Via Gabrio Ludovico Serbelloni. Tom Sawyer by Jef Aerosol. Via Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema Gabrio Serbelloni. Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Galeazzo Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Alessi. Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Herakut. Via Capua 14. Galeazzo Alessi. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Herakut. Via Capua 14. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Tor Marancia The Big City Life scheme features 14-m Tormurals Marancia tall by 22 Italian and internaThe Big City artists Life scheme features tional street including Mr 14-m tall murals by 22 Italian and Klevra, Seth, Gaia and Jerico. The idea international street was to transform theartists area's including blocks of Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia and Jerico. flats into an open-air art museum. Via TheMarancia. idea was to transform the area’s Tor www.bigcity.life.it. blocks of ﬂats into an open-air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. For full details see website, www.bigcity.life.it.

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Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth. Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

Wanted in Rome â&#x20AC;¢ December 2019 | 55

Tate: Bequeathed by Simon Sainsbury 2006, accessioned 2008 © Lucian Freud archive / Bridgeman images. Photo: © Tate, London 2019. Lucian Freud / Boy Smoking

opere della

CHIOSTRO DEL BRAMANTE 26 settembre 2019 23 febbraio 2020

orario 10.00 > 20.00 / sabato e domenica 10.00 > 21.00 (la biglietteria chiude un’ora prima)

mostra prodotta e organizzata da

in collaborazione con

con il patrocinio di

opening 10am > 8pm / saturday and sunday 10am > 9pm

(last entry one hour before)

partner tecnici

media coverage

orski

ag By Kate Z

RISOTTO RADICCHIO E GORGONZOLA Winter is a great time for radicchio. Endless versions of the purple and white vegetable can be seen in the markets around Rome including squat, round cabbage-like balls, elegant elongated ovals and the distinctive Treviso variety with its long, deep-violet tendrils. Radicchio is a member of the chicory family and has a bitter tang which softens and sweetens when cooked. This pairs perfectly with blue cheese such as gorgonzola which has a creamy texture, slightly salty flavour and touch of spiciness. This perfect marriage of radicchio and gorgonzola is right at home in a warming bowl of risotto. Risotto can be tricky to get right, it needs to be cooked enough to create a thick, unctuous sauce from the rice starch but it should at the same time maintain a slight al dente ‘bite’ to avoid a sludgy, soupy or watery texture. Stirring and tasting is the key so make sure not to take your eye of the stove for too long. This risotto pairs very well with a fragrant white wine such as a Chardonnay or even a fresh, sparkling rosé.

Serves 2 people 200g radicchio, cut into thin strips 70g gorgonzola piccante, cubed 1 small red onion, finely chopped 30g butter 1 clove of garlic, peeled 3 small (espresso) cups of Arborio rice 1 litre of vegetable stock Extra virgin olive oil Half glass of white wine Salt First prepare the radicchio, in a small pan add 2 spoonfuls of olive oil and gently fry a whole, peeled clove of garlic for a few minutes. Add the radicchio and fry for a further 5 minutes until soft. In the meantime, in a large pan heat the butter and a splash of olive oil and fry the chopped onion for a few minutes until soft and translucent. Add the rice and a pinch of salt. Lightly toast the rice and then add half a glass of white wine. The rice will release starch at become very compact. Once the alcohol has evaporated add the cooked radicchio and cook together for around 3 minutes. Then add enough stock to cover the rice and continue to stir. Once the liquid is absorbed continue to gradually add stock, all the while stirring, until the rice is cooked, approximately 10-15 minutes. Taste to check that the rice is al dente and the sauce is thick and creamy. Once the risotto is cooked add the gorgonzola and mix until melted. Serve immediately.

58 | December 2019 â&#x20AC;˘ Wanted in Rome

The best wine bars in Rome: ten of our favourites that also serve food Sometimes an excellent wine bar can be even better than a good restaurant, and for this reason we have put together a definitive list Brylla – Trieste Brylla is a modern wine bar with a a very smart idea: Coravin. Thanks to an unusual contraption, the bottles can be opened but still keep well. The outcome is extraordinary, you can try a glass of anything on the menu. And that’s hundreds of different grapes, from a more modest wine to a Chateau Lafitte, either for a taster, by the glass, half bottle or bottle. There’s a fairly good menu too (but you could find better). Via Chiana 77, tel. 0685355669. Fafiuché – Monti Fafiuché is a small sanctuary, a haven, a shelter from life’s chaos. On a backstreet in Monti is the wine bar where you’ll find high quality Piedmont wines and also delicious dishes, such as braised meat, mixed plates of meats and cheeses accompanied by preserves. If you are lucky you might be able to nab one of the (few) tables outside. Via della Madonna dei Monti 28, tel. 066990968. Litro – Monteverde Litro has much to say for it and little wrong with it: the location is great with a lovely outdoor space. The staff are passionate and attentive. The wine list (all organic) is excellent. The wines are made with the highest quality ingredients, unlike other wines you might find round and about. Via Fratelli Bonnet 5, tel. 0645447639. Sogno Autarchico – Prati Near the Sorpasso house, this venue isn’t particularly nice indoors – the room is crammed with a large bar, a few tables and a lounge area. But this wine bar earns a prized place on our list, thanks to Gianni Ruggiero, who is also the sommelier at Simposio. You’ll find regulars here spanning all sorts of ages, who hold this bar in high regard. Via Properzio 32, tel. 0668801310. Il Sorí – S. Lorenzo Small and cosy, an oasis in S. Lorenzo, hidden amongst an array of fast food eateries with outdoor seating. Sorì really knows its stuff about wines, and also about cooking. As well as other delicious dishes you can try the excellent Gallega octopus (€15), the crispy toasted patanegra (Spanish ham, the beef tartare or wild boar cheek. Via dei Volsci 51, tel. 3934318681. Remigio Champagne e Vino – Appio Remigio is a hidden gem between via Tuscolana and Appia. There’s a wide variety of champagne and sparkling wines available, but there are also

a great number of still wines to choose from. We recommend pairing a glass of wine with the steak tartare, which is one of the best around. All the dishes are excellent, especially the crostini, pastrami, and salted cod. Also open at lunchtime. Via S. Maria Ausiliatrice 15, tel 06789228. La Barrique – Monti At this very popular bar you can have an enjoyable meal alone, at one of the wooden tables, gazing at the shelves that show off the many wine bottles. The array of wines is truly excellent, and includes some organic bottles. They also offer wine by the glass, and you can choose between slightly cheaper wines or some rather special ones. There aren’t many dishes on offer, but there’s always something tasty. Via del Boschetto 41/b, tel 0647825953. Il Goccetto – Historical centre An institution, one of the city’s first wine bars, a cult spot for Romans and tourists looking for a touch of the gourmet. They both sit by the bar waiting for an extraordinary platter of meats and cheeses which they wash down with a glass of wine. Cosy and intimate, il Goccetto is a perfect mix between a wine bar offering 800 bottles and a Venetian bacaro (the venetian word for wine bar). Truly one of the best wine bars in Rome. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 14, tel 066864268. Al Vino al Vino – Monti While there might not always be an enthusiastic and jolly atmosphere it’s definitely worth a visit. The owner Giacomo is a man of few words, who watches football games on the television while preparing the cheese and meat boards. Unfortunately these are the only things on the menu, other than a very saucy aubergine parmigiana. We recommend taking your glass outside and watching passersby. There is a good selection of wines on offer. Via dei Serpenti 19, tel. 06485803. Trimani Wine Bar – Fiume Trimani has just celebrated its 25th birthday, and at this respectable age has certainly become one of Rome’s most classic wine bars. Elegant and a little formal, there’s an intimate atmosphere and an excellent kitchen. They serve an age-old dish, crostino with lard from the butcher Silvio Brarda and mozzarella. You can also enjoy carpacci, buffalo mozzarella and many other dishes. It is filled with tables, there are no stools at the bar. Via Cernaia 37, tel. 064469630.

www.puntarellarossa.it Wanted in Rome • December 2019 | 59

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Your Passport to Worldclass Healthcare Campus Bio-Medico University Hospital of Rome provides: • Coordination of Hospital, physician and diagnostic appointments • Free of charge translation services for all the procedures • 12 hours medical services, including air ambulance transfer coordination • Partnership with major International Insurance Companies • Elevated International Standard and sole General Hospital JCI Accredited in Rome Whether you are a patient, family member or friend feel free to contact us at: Hospitaly - International Patients Program Officer Via Álvaro del Portillo, 200 - Rome (Italy) mail: info@hospitaly.it - phone: 0039.06.22541.8852 WWW.HOSPITALY.IT

Associations American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com Daughters of the American Revolution Pax Romana Chapter NSDAR paxromana@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com

International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490, www.iwcofrome.it Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 3338466820 Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Woman’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com

Books The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified. Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 Anglo American Bookshop Via delle Vite 102, tel. 066795222 Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it

Religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881 Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish)

62 | December 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484 Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com Otherwise Via del Governo Vecchio, tel. 066879825, www.otherwisebookshop.com St Patrick’s English-Language Lending Library Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 0688818727, Sun 10.00-12.30, Tues 10.00-14.00, Wed 15.00-18.00, Thurs 11.00-15.30 Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 3332284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday Service 10.30

Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei SS. Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Roma Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic) Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00

Support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.info Archè (HIV+children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/06582045580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 3381675680

Transport • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157066645-064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it

St Isidore College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic), Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827, www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri” Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022

Chiamaroma 24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Emergency numbers • • • • • • •

Ambulance tel. 118 Carabinieri tel. 112 Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 Fire brigade tel. 115 Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 Police tel. 113 Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355 Wanted in Rome • December 2019 | 63

Single Cycle Master Degree Program

Medicine and Surgery

The new English-taught Master Degree Program is designed using a multidisciplinary approach to train students to become doctors practicing in a diverse biomedical-social culture with interdisciplinary and intercultural working skills. In line with the guiding principles of Campus Bio-Medico University of Rome, the teaching is entirely patient-centred and community-centred. A deep knowledge of ethical issues is applied to the use of advanced medical technology in order to promote health-care through a humanistic approach. Students are provided with strong foundations in scientific methodology, statistics and "evidence based medicine” imparted through means of Problem-Based Learning (PBL) a method that uses complex real-world problems as the vehicle to stimulate student learning of theoretical concepts and principles as opposed to direct presentation of facts and concepts. The program is designed in such a way that its core contents anticipate and integrate the European specifications for global standards in medical education according to the World Federation on Medical Education in international basic standards and quality development of biomedical education (WFME Office, University of Copenhagen, 2007) and the Basic Medical Education WFME Global Standards for Quality Improvement - 2015 Revision (WFME Office Ferney-Voltaire, France Copenhagen, Denmark 2015).

orientamento@unicampus.it - www.unicampus.it

Tel: 06.22541.9056/8121/8715 - Via Álvaro del Portillo 21 - 00128 Roma

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