Wanted in Rome - December2022

DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: Marco Venturini

EDITRICE: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9

PROGETTO GRAFICO: Dali Studio Srl

IMPAGINAZIONE: Simona Castellari

STAMPA: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c.

DIFFUSIONE: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425. Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131del 6/3/1985.

Finito di stampare il 30/11/2022

Anglo American Bookstore, Via della Vite

Wanted in Rome Via di Monserrato 49 - tel. 066867967

Education

JOHN CABOT UNIVERSITY CELEBRATES 50 YEARS IN ROME Charles Seymour

JCU PRESIDENT FRANCO PAVONCELLO TALKS TO WANTED IN ROME

In the autumn of 1972, the president of Hiram College, Ohio, which served as a university of records for John Cabot University for 25 years, reported back to his faculty that “the John Cabot International College, has opened its doors in Rome to thirty-one students - eleven more than expected.”

Half a century later, the John Cabot University (JCU) of Rome would probably still exceed the expectations of its early benefactors. Each year it attracts thousands of students from over 80 countries, including a sizeable number of Italians, who come to benefit from an American-style

liberal arts education while enjoying the cultural heritage and charm of Rome.

Sitting in his luminous on-campus office overlooking the Tiber, the current president Professor Franco Pavoncello is upbeat. Not only is the university at a record level of attendance this autumn but he has also just spent the last few weeks celebrating JCU’s half-centenary with a series of academic conferences, concerts and even a gala at Hotel Hassler. “It is definitely a moment of great activity and ebullience at an academic level here,” Pavoncello said, “but most of all, we are grateful to have just remained open all these years.”

It hasn’t always been plain sailing however. In the autumn of 2021, as the pandemic embedded across Europe, only 12, of an expected 500 international students enrolled at JCU. Pavoncello said it was one of the most difficult moments of his career. But the university pulled through.

Today, JCU’s three campuses – which are buried within the frenzied but alluring streets of Trastevere – are brimming with students. The university’s academic programme is also bigger than ever, with 14 majors (courses of study) offering specialisations in anything from business administration, to psychology, and English literature, as well as an MA in Art History.

Studying in Rome, especially its fashionable Trastevere district, becomes the realisation of a dream for many US and international students from the moment they set foot in the city. But for Pavoncello, the advantages of international education in the age of globalisation are conspicuous.

John Cabot University president Franco Pavoncello.

Before joining JCU in the mid-1990s, Pavoncello pursued a successful academic career abroad, which included working with the great political scientist Robert D. Putnam, helping him to develop his ideas on societal decline and social capital. He had stints at the University of Jerusalem, the University of Michigan and later Harvard.

These experiences informed Pavoncello’s vision for student life at John Cabot:

“I learnt from my time in Israel and the United States that when you interact in a global environment as a foreigner in a different culture, you understand much better who you are. You understand what your traditions are, you understand the universal and peculiar parts of your culture. The experience can be transformative,” he said.

Though JCU opened initially in the northern outskirts of Rome, and only moved to Via della Lungara on the grounds of Villa Farnesina, in the 1990s, Trastevere is central to the university’s modern identity.

Students here dive in and out of classrooms to the clanging bells of the neighbourhood’s baroque churches and take coffee breaks in the surrounding elegant piazzas. The location has particular significance for Pavonvello. Despite his many years abroad, his ties with the area run deep.

He was born in the Jewish Ghetto to a Roman Jewish family – in the same room where his great-grandfather was taken from by the Nazis during world war two. Later, he moved across the river to Trastevere, where his mother’s side of his family has lived for 100 years. He spent his childhood exploring the very same street where JCU is now happily ensconced.

Pavoncello likes to believe the university has helped transform the area. It is true that in the last decades, Trastevere has changed from a neighbourhood of port workers and labourers to a bustling hive of culture, packed full of cafes, theatres and cinemas. “JCU has been an economic dynamo for the neighbourhood,” he says.

Nevertheless, recently the gentrifying neighbourhood has come under criticism for being overrun with restaurants and late-night bars that have muscled out artisans and family businesses. The encroachment of tourists, as well as riotous behaviour of evening partygoers at night, has angered residents. Some have pointed their fingers at the American university. Pavoncello is categorical that the troubles have little to do with JCU. He suggests the American institution is an easy target for angered locals and the media.

With an increasing demand for study abroad programmes and undergraduates wanting to enrol in foreign colleges for a complete bachelor’s degree, John Cabot is likely to continue to attract more and more students through its doors. Wanted in Rome spoke to Pavoncello about all of this, the university’s half-centenary and his plans for the future.

When John Cabot was founded in 1972, Italy was going through some troubled times politically. Richard Nixon was still President in the US. It was also the year of Watergate. What were the motivations behind creating an American university in Rome?

The idea of having an international university in Europe, wasn’t the most normal thing at the time. In Europe, universities are very much the product of national ideas and national traditions. But the spirit of JCU has always been to put an international horizon in the minds of students.

The college was named after 15th-century Italian explorer Giovanni Caboto, from Gaeta, who helped discover North America under the flag of Henry VII and who is largely responsible for English being spoken on the continent.

Our mission is therefore to educate young leaders that can make a change in the world. Most importantly, we want them to understand and have empathy for the society around them.

John Cabot embodies the liberal arts college tradition, how important is this for the university?

Education

What does Rome give students coming from abroad?

Rome gives them everything. It’s a bird’s eye view of history – or at least 2000 years of it. We offer the possibility of coming into a nonfamiliar environment but to do so in a familiar context. I believe this makes you understand the differences better as you have the tools of an American university to explore a new culture.

What about JCU in the next 50 years?

Well actually, the university started life as a business school but in the 1980s we became a fully fledged accredited liberal arts university. Since then, the humanistic component of our education has been crucial to our culture. We have always encouraged open debate and constant dialogue between professors and students.

There has always been this sense that everyone is allowed to think and to express and to be who they are.

This means even those studying business administration, for example, are exposed to liberal arts ideas, to critical thinking, to elegant expression, to understanding the world around us.

Today, 40 per cent of JCU students are Italian. What advantages can Italian students get from enrolling here as opposed to the number of high quality, and considerably cheaper, public universities in Rome?

There are several things. First, students here are in an international environment and, as we discussed before, will study in the American liberal arts tradition. This is a very structured programme, where you have to perform to a certain level and you can’t be parked and left behind.

Second, we have a holistic conception of the university, where students learn to dedicate themselves to the community, to be leaders, and to develop different skills beyond academics.

Third, Italians students will come out speaking and writing excellent English which is still rare in Italy today. Next year, we are launching an Italian Development Initiative that will give fee discounts to some Italian students. We feel it is extremely important to encourage the Italian component of the university.

I was asked the same question by our Board of Trustees recently. I am closer to the end than beginning of my presidency but my idea is to continue to push for an increase in students and further expand our majors programmes.

The accreditation of our Business School, from the Association to Advance Collegiate Schools of Business (AACSB) – only the third in Italy to do so – has been a great success. We will build on this by launching our new Master in International Affairs.

There are lots of exciting possibilities. Maybe my successor might even explore the possibility of an American-style campus outside of Rome.

You regularly appear as an expert voice on Italian politics for news outlets, how did you begin your career as a pundit?

Silvio Berlusconi is responsible for my career as a pundit, I think. [Laughs]

Now I do much less. For a period, I was doing programmes with CNN, BBC and Bloomberg. Once I was giving an interview live when the Berlusconi government collapsed and I suggested a fairly unknown university rector, called Mario Monti, could step in as a potential caretaker. From then they kept on calling me back – I think they thought I was a wizard or had access to some form of insider information.

Monti was president of Bocconi University in Milan for many years, before leading Italy’s technocratic government in 2011. With Italian politics you never know what is around the corner, would you ever consider doing something similar if the opportunity arises?

[Laughs] No one has ever considered asking me such a thing. I think I am very well engaged in the university. People should know what they do well and what their limitations are.

Christmas

GUIDE TO CHRISTMAS AND NEW YEAR IN ROME

HOW TO CELEBRATE THE FESTIVE SEASON IN THE ETERNAL CITY

Andy Devane

Christmas is a magical time in Rome, particularly for children. Streets in the historic centre twinkle with traditional street light displays, red carpets are laid outside shops, and the city’s churches come to life with Nativity scenes.

It is a far cry from the tinselly excesses of North America and northern Europe, although Santa Claus makes an increasing presence each year in Roman shopfronts. Christmas in Rome is a much less glitzy experience, revolving instead around cultural and religious traditions, family and food.

Christmas trees

For many the festive season in the capital will begin on 3 December, when the Vatican switches on the lights on its Christmas tree in St Peter’s Square. This year it is a 26m-high silver fir donated by Rossella in the central Abruzzo region. At the base of the tree is a crib, gifted from Sutrio in the northern Friuli-Venezia Giuli region. Made entirely from cedar wood, the Nativity scene features life-size figures, with the Holy Family joined by hand-carved characters representing traditional artisans from Sutrio, including carpenters, weavers and craftspeople.

The Vatican Christmas tree will be lit from 3 December until 8 January.

Rome's Christmas tree is once again in Piazza Venezia. The 100,000 lights on the tree, a 23m-high fir from northern Italy, will be switched on by the city's mayor Roberto Gualtieri at 18.00 on 8 December, at the same time as the lights along the central thoroughfare Via del Corso.

Christmas cribs

Although there are Christmas mangers and Nativity scenes in churches throughout the capital, the main draw is always 100 Presepi, the international crib exhibition, under the colonnade in St Peter’s Square. Popular with young and old, the crib show is now in its 47th edition and takes place from 8 December until 8 January.

L’Immacolata

On 8 December, Pope Francis marks the Feast of the Immaculate Conception by laying a floral wreath at the statue of the Madonna at Piazza Mignanelli, near the Spanish Steps. It is around this time that Romans begin decorating their homes with Christmas trees and seasonal plants such as the poinsettia and butcher’s broom, an evergreen shrub spotted with red berries.

S. Lucia

The Swedish embassy brings S. Lucia to Rome, sharing one of Sweden’s best-loved traditions with the capital on 12 December. This year’s choir of young students from Stockholm will

perform Swedish traditional Christmas songs, carols and hymns at Piazza di Pietra at 19.00, followed by treats such as glögg (hot spiced wine) and gingerbread biscuits.

Christmas markets

Rome has plenty of markets over the festive period, the best known of which is the traditional “Befana” market in Piazza Navona, complete with a merry-go-round. The American Episcopal Church of Rome, St Paul’s within the Walls, is holding its Christmas Market on 17 December, from 10.00-17.00, in aid of the Joel Nafuma Refugee Center. Along with stalls offering gift items, there will be food, a bake sale, activities for children and Christmas music.

Kids

Children will enjoy Christmas World at the Galoppatoio in Villa Borghese, Natale a Cinecitta’ World, Ice Christmas at the Foro Italico, and the enchanting light show Incanto di Luci (see cover) at the Botanic Gardens in Trastevere.

Old traditions

The spectacle of bagpipe-playing shepherds, known as zampognari, is relatively common in central and southern Italy during the Christmas season and still exists in Rome. Dressed in sheepskin and woollen cloaks with peaked hats, the pipers come into the city from their mountain

The Befana Christmas market returns to Piazza Navona this year.

Christmas

homes, performing traditional music and hymns including the much-loved Italian carol Tu scendi dalle stelle.

Christmas food

It wouldn’t be Christmas in Italy without the annual debate over which festive sweet cake is better: panettone or pandoro. There are also countless regional delicacies produced throughout Italy at this time of year, while the main family meal – on Christmas Eve or vigilia di Natale rather than Christmas Day – consists of a feast of fish.

Religious services

Midnight Mass, which rarely occurs at midnight anymore, is held at parish churches across Rome, including in St Peter’s Basilica at 21.30 on Christmas Eve. The next day, crowds gather in Piazza S. Pietro at noon to be blessed by Pope Francis as he delivers his annual Urbi et Orbi message “to the city and the world”. For Christmas religious services in English see our guide on page 18.

Capodanno

On New Year’s Eve, known as the Festa di S. Silvestro in Italy, the traditional meal consists of cotechino (a product similar to salami), zampone (stuffed pig’s trotter), and lentils which are believed to bring luck for the coming year, all washed down with a glass or two of prosecco or spumante. A wellknown but now almost extinct tradition associated with capodanno in southern Italy involves people throwing old objects out the window, symbolising their readiness to welcome in the new year.

New Year’s Eve party

The city promises there will be a New Year’s Eve party however details were not announced at the time of writing. In previous years this event has been held at the Circus Maximus and in the surrounding area.

Diving into the Tiber

One of the city’s most unusual sights on New Year’s Day takes place on Ponte Cavour at midday when daredevil divers thrill crowds by making the 17-metre plunge, known as the Tuffo nel Tevere, into the icy waters of the Tiber below.

New Year’s Day Parade

Later that afternoon, musicians from some of America’s best-known high school marching

New Year's Day is enlivened with the Rome Parade.

bands will stage a parade through the city centre. The New Year’s Day event will see US marching bands and majorettes join forces with Italian folk groups and historical re-enactors. Beginning in Piazza del Popolo at 15.30, the parade runs along Via del Corso, Via Condotti, Piazza di Spagna and Via del Babuino in a colourful extravaganza lasting three hours.

Winter sales

The post-Christmas clothes sales begin in Rome and the Lazio region on 5 January.

La Befana

The next day, 6 January, Italians celebrate the religious Feast of the Epiphany, better known by its popular name of La Befana. In the Bible tradition, the feast of the Epiphany is when the three magi arrive in Bethlehem to visit the Christ child. In the popular tradition of the Befana, the story goes that the wise men invited a witch to join them on their journey to bring gifts to baby Jesus. She initially refused, but then tried to follow them. Unable to find Jesus she gave the toys to other children.

Traditionally children in Italy hang stockings by windows or fireplaces in anticipation of her visit, receiving sweets if they’ve been good or coal (nowadays usually made of sugar) if they misbehaved. The story of the Befana is reenacted each year in Piazza Navona and the witch’s departing flight marks the end of the holiday season.

By the time the Vatican takes down its tree and crib, on 8 January, Christmas in Rome will be well and truly over.

Books

ROME'S ENGLISH BOOK SHOPS RIDE THE CRISIS

Afew months ago, with the closure of the celebrated Feltrinelli in the Galleria Sordi on Rome’s Via del Corso, local Italian newspapers published doom and gloom predictions for the future

Margaret Stenhouse

of book stores in general, with the shock revelation that 230 book shops in Rome had closed over the last 15 years. The covid emergency was expected to deal the death blow for those that were still in business.

Otherwise bookshop near Piazza Navona

However, a post-pandemic trip around Rome’s independent English-language book shops paints a less gloomy picture. The four stores in our investigation, all run by dedicated women, revealed that owners were not only determined to carry on, but that they were also reasonably optimistic as regards the future.

Anita Ross, the dynamic manager of the Almost Corner Bookshop in Trastevere observes that: “Kindle reading is dwindling. In my experience, people who have read a book they like on kindle will buy it afterwards in hard copy to keep.” She also believes that a new trend is emerging. “People want books to be more attractively presented with more attention paid to quality production. I think that we are now entering a degrowth economy when people want quality rather than quantity. They are tired of the philosophy of ‘cheap and disposable’ that has dominated the market these past years and this applies to books as well.”

The one English bookstore that has been worst hit by the crisis is the Anglo American Book Co. near Piazza di Spagna, owned by Cristina Donati, who comes from a family with a four-generation tradition of book sellers. Since the 1970s the Anglo American Book on the corner of Via della Vite was a fixed point of reference for the Englishspeaking community of Rome. In its heyday the store could boast a shelf stock of 150,000 books, including novels, biographies, history, science, travel, Italian art, school texts and anything that wasn’t in the shop could be ordered and would arrive punctually.

However the store has been forced to move, due to demands for a 100 per cent rent hike from the proprietor of the building. Despite the fact that local legislation allegedly protects independent book shops and craft laboratories, by prohibiting a change of use for a number of years, many landlords of properties in plum locations seem to prefer to keep premises empty rather than limit their rent increase requests. And in fact, the windows of the old Anglo American Book now stare blankly out at the tourists who wander by.

The Anglo American Book moved on 1 September 2022 to a first floor apartment further down Via della Vite and is still finding its feet. Shelf space is now limited to 4,000 books while the bulk of the rest of the stock has to be kept in storage in a warehouse outside Rome. Donati laments that many previous activities such as book presentations and school visits have had to be curtailed.

In addition to moving and handling restricted space, Donati has had to cope with reduced opening times. The building where they are now housed is regulated by the working hours of the concierge who is not on duty on Saturdays and Sundays. The street door is also closed at lunchtimes: “But we are here if anyone rings the bell so come on up!” she says. The business is manned with the help of four friendly assistants –Patrizia, Edoardo, Pietro and Daniele.

“I’m grateful for my regular customers who have remained loyal and continue to come to the new premises,” says Donati. But

Anita Ross at the Almost Corner Bookshop

Books

Like all independent book shops, the personal touch is considered essential and Marcella says that things have been going well from April onwards when pandemic fears began to subside. The store promotes works published by small independent publishers and it delivers all over Italy. It also runs two book clubs on the premises – the Feminist Book Club and the Harry Potter Book Club. According to Marcella: “Harry Potter attracts all age groups.”

The two long established English book shops in Trastevere continue to flourish.

The Open Door is tucked away in the lesserknown tract of Via della Lungaretta on the S. Cecilia side of Viale del Trastevere. Run by Lavinia and Paola Ciuffa, it specialises in second-hand books and relies mainly on a clientele of passing visitors and non residents who like to pop in and browse among the decks of shelves crammed with books of all epochs and on all subject matters imaginable, including curiosities such as the Lloyds Register of Shipping from 1760 to 1960, stacked beside old copies of The Last September, Elizabeth Bowen’s 1929 novel on the Irish troubles.

she admits that the more casual passingby traffic has been limited by the lack of a street level window display. “People don’t always understand there is a bookstore just up the stairs, although we do have a sign outside the main entrance.”

The other independent English book shops have been more fortunate thanks to a more stable situation. A team of three women runs the Otherwise Bookshop on Via del Governo Vecchio, just off Piazza Navona. Marcella del Bosco, Giulia Melideo and Donato Porcarella alternate shifts to cover the long opening hours. The book shop is open every day including Sunday from 10.00 to 23.00.

A relative newcomer to the scene, it opened in 2017, an offshoot of the Italian Altroquando book store owned by Alessandro Alessandroni, situated opposite.

The “steadies” are locals, who regularly bring in their surplus books to donate or to sell. The shop is so packed that only a corner near the door is reserved for the desk of the person in charge. Most of their stock is in English, but an archway at the back leads into a smaller room with books in French, Spanish and a few other languages.

On the opposite side of Viale Trastevere, near the Basilica of S. Maria di Trastevere and the celebtated Valzani pastry shop, is the Almost Corner Bookshop, run by Anita Ross who has taken over full command since Dermot O’Connell has moved into semi-retirement due to ill health.

The Almost Corner was founded in 1991 by Australian UN worker Claire Hammond who subsequently sold it to the Irish ex-pat O’Connell in 2002. Ross originally comes from Edinburgh, where she trained in Edinburgh City Libraries before she was drawn by the lure of the Eternal City and found her niche

The Open Door Bookshop in Trastevere

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in the Trastevere book shop. She runs the shop with the help of two assistants, Jahan and Romina, who alternate with her to cover the extensive opening hours.

The atmosphere is casual, friendly and efficient. The shelves are tidy and a rotating display centre in the middle of the room gives customers the opportunity to view the latest arrivals.

Ross’s motto is: “A book for every customer and a customer for every book” and she is convinced: “If a book doesn’t sell right away, it will sell eventually. There will always be someone who will come along and be interested in it sooner or later.”

“We are fortunate in being in Trastevere where we have a stable clientele of 40 per cent locals as well as a 20 per cent of students from universities like John Cabot.” There is also a steady passing by traffic. “We clear 60 per cent of our stock in an average three months and a further 20 per cent within six months.”

Like all the other book stores, the Almost

Corner struggled through the pandemic. It is a matter of pride with her that: “We only closed completely for five days at the height of covid. A book shop, after all, is a public service.”

Business however has now picked up well, she says. She believes that the most damage to the book trade in recent years – “more than covid, more than competition from Amazon and online reading –“ was caused by “the phenomenon of low-cost travel with people preferring to spend their money on trips rather than books.”

Together with Cristina Donati, she complains about the negative impact of Brexit: “The book market to Europe from the United States is processed through London so the difficulties buying in American authors are the same.” Deliveries take longer and costs have escalated by 28 per cent, she says. “Inevitably this raises the price of the books.”

However, as book sellers know, true book lovers will never do without their books and luckily there seem to be plenty of them still around.

Anglo American Book, Via della Vite 27, tel. 066795222.

Mon-Fri 09.00-18.00 (ring the bell if street door is closed at lunchtime).

Almost Corner Bookshop, Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942.

Mon, Tues, Wed 10.00-18.00. Thurs, Fri, Sat 10.00-19.00. Sun 12.00-19.00.

Otherwise Bookshop, Via del Governo Vecchio 80, tel. 066879825. 10.00-23.00 every day.

Open Door, Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478. Tues-Sat 11.00-14.30 and 15.30-19.30. Mon and Sun closed.

Cristina Donati at the Anglo American bookshop

Christmas Masses and religious services in English

All Saints’ Anglican Church

Via del Babuino 153/b, tel. 0636001881.

24 Dec Crib Service for children and families 17.00. Midnight Mass 23.30.

25 Dec. Christmas Day Sung Eucharist 10.30.

Rome Baptist Church S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652.

24 Dec Christmas Eve Candle Light Service, 19.00.

25 Dec. Christmas Morning Service, 10.30.

St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church

Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627.

24 Dec Christmas Eve Service, 18.30.

25 Dec Christmas Day Service, 11.00.

St Patrick’s American Community (Roman Catholic)

Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 064203121.

24 Dec Christmas Eve Family Mass 16.30. Christmas Vigil or ‘Midnight’ Mass 19.30.

25 Dec. Christmas Day Masses 09.00 and 10.30.

St Paul’s Within-the-Walls (Episcopal Church)

Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339.

24 Dec Musical Prelude 22.00.

First Eucharist of Christmas 22.30.

25 Dec. Second Eucharist of Christmas 10.30.

S. Isidoro Church (Roman Catholic)

Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359.

24 Dec Christmas Eve ‘Midnight Mass’ 21.00.

25 Dec. Christmas Day Mass 10.00.

S. Silvestro in Capite (Roman Catholic)

Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121.

24 Dec Mass at 19.30.

25 Dec. Christmas Mass at 10.00 and 17.30.

St Francis Xavier del

(Roman Catholic)

Via della Caravita 7.

Caravita

24 Dec Lessons and Carols 19.00 with Mass at 20.00

25 Dec. Christmas Day Mass 11.00.

St Francis Xavier del Caravita

ARTandSEEK

English-language cultural workshops and visits to museums and exhibitions for children in Rome. For event details tel. 3315524440, email artandseekfor kids@gmail.com, or see website, www.artandse ekforkids.com.

Bioparco

Rome's Bioparco has over 1,000 animals and o ers special activities for children and their families at weekends and during the summer. When little legs get tired, take a ride around the zoo on an electric train. Open daily. Viale del Giardino Zoologico 20 (Villa Borghese), tel. 063608211, www.bioparco.it.

Bowling Silvestri

is sports club has an 18-hole mini golf course, with good facilities for children aged 4 and over, adults and disabled children.

ere are also tennis courts, a table tennis room and a pizzeria. Via G. Zoega 6 (Monteverde/Bravetta), tel. 0666158206, www.bowlingsilvestri.com.

Casa del Parco

Eco-friendly workshops, in Italian, in which kids can learn about nature and how to care for the environment. Located in the Valle dei Casali nature park. Via del Casaletto 400, tel. 3475540409, www.valledeicasali.com.

Casina di Ra aello

Play centre in Villa Borghese o ering a programme of animated lectures, creative workshops, cultural projects and educational activities for children from the age of three. Tues-Fri 14.30, Sat-Sun 11.00 and 17.00. Viale della Casina di Ra aello (Porta Pincia na), tel. 060608, www.casinadira aello.it.

Cinecittà World

is 25-hectare theme park dedicated to the magic of cinema features high-tech attractions, real and virtual roller coasters, aquatic shows such as Super Splash, giant elephant rides and attractions with cinematic special e ects. Located about 10 km from EUR, south of Rome. Via di Castel Romano, S.S. 148 Pontina, www.cinecittaworld.it.

Climbing

Associazione Sportiva Climbing Side. Basic and competitive climbing courses for 6-18 year olds. Tues, urs. Via Cristoforo Colombo 1800 (Torri no/Mostacciano), tel. 3356525473.

Explora

e 2,000-sqm Children’s Museum organises creative workshops for small children in addition to holding regular animated lectures, games and meetings with authors of children’s books. Via Flaminia 80/86, tel. 063613776, www.mdbr.it.

Go-karting Club Kartroma is a circuit with go-karts for children over 9 and two-seater karts for an adult and a child under 8. Closed Mon. For details see website. Via della Muratella (Ponte Galeria), tel. 0665004962, www.kartroma.it.

Gymboree

is children's centre caters to little people aged from 0-5 years, o ering Play and Learn activities, music, art, baby play, school skills and even English theatre arts. Gymboree @ Chiostro del Bramante (Piazza Navona), Via Arco della Pace 5, www.gym bo.it.

Hortis Urbis Association providing hands-on horticultural workshops for children, usually in Italian but someti mes in English, in the Appia Antica park. Weekend activities include sowing seeds, cultivating plants and harvesting vegetables. Junior gardeners must be accompanied by a parent or guardian. Via Appia Antica 42/50, www.hortusurbis.it.

Il Nido

Based in Testaccio, this association supports expectant mothers, parents, babies and small children. It holds regular educational and social events, many of them in English. Via Marmorata 169 (Testaccio), tel. 0657300707, www.associazio neilnido.it.

Luneur

Located in the southern EUR suburb, Luneur is Italy’s oldest amusement park. Highlights include ferris wheel, roller coaster, carousel horses, bamboo tunnel, maze, giant swing and a Wizard of Oz-style farm. Aimed at children aged up to 12. Entry fee €2.50, payable in person or online. Via delle Tre Fontane 100, www.luneurpark.it.

Rainbow Magicland e 38 attractions at Rome's biggest theme park are divided into three categories: brave, everyone, and kids. Highlights include down-hill rafting, a water roller coaster through Mayan-style pyramids, and the Shock launch coaster. Located in Valmonte, south-east of the capital. Via della Pace, 00038 Valmontone, www.rainbowmagicland.it.

Time Elevator

A virtual reality, multi-sensorial 5-D cinema experience with a motion-base platform, bringing the history of Rome to life in an accessible and fun way. e time-machine's commentary is available in six languages including English. Daily 11.00-19.30. €12 adults, €9 kids. Via dei SS. Apostoli 20, tel. 0669921823, www.time-eleva tor.it.

Zoomarine is amusement and aquatic park outside Rome o ers performances with dolphins, parrots and other animals for children of all ages. It is also possible to rent little play carts. Children under 10 must be accompanied by an adult. Via Casablanca 61, Torvaianica, Pomezia, tel. 0691534, www.zoo marine.it.

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

ROME'S MAJOR

MUSEUMS

IT IS ADVISABLE TO CHECK WEBSITES FOR VISITING DETAILS DETAILS. IN SOME CASES RESERVATIONS ARE REQUIRED.

VATICAN MUSEUMS

Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

STATE MUSEUMS

Baths of Diocletian

Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoro ma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Borghese Museum

Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantan gelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30.

Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colos seo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

Crypta Balbi

Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeo logia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.benicul turali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's modern art collection. Mon closed.

MAXXI

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsi ni.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.be niculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.

CELEBRATING 50 YEARS OF AMERICAN EDUCATION IN ITALY

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

CITY MUSEUMS

Centrale Montemartini

Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemarti ni.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoli ne Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.

Capitoline Museums

Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitoli ni.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun.

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

MACRO

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.

MATTATOIO

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Museo Canonica

Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museoca nonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).

Museo Napoleonico

Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleo nico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napole on and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS

Casa di Goethe

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Chiostro Del Bramante

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035 www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.

Galleria Colonna

Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galle riacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.

Giorgio de Chirico House Museum

Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechiri co.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, rst Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking.

Keats-Shelley House

Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-hou se.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking.

Museo storico della Liberazione Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it. Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from 1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.

Palazzo Merulana

Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it. Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection, including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation. 09.00-20.00. Tues closed.

ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY

ART GALLERIES

1/9 Unosunove

1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and interna tional contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.

A.A.M. Architettura

Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contem porary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www. -maam.it.

Contemporary Cluster

Multidisciplinary venue devoted to visual art, design, architec ture and fashion design at Palazzo Brancaccio. Via Merulana 248, tel. 0631709949, www.contemporarycluster.com.

C.R.E.T.A.

Cultural association promoting ceramics and the visual, humanistic, musical and culinary arts through workshops, exhibitions and artist residencies. Palazzo Del ni, Via dei Del ni 17, tel. 0689827701, www.cretarome.com.

Dorothy Circus Gallery

Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircus gallery.com.

Ex Elettrofonica

This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.

Fondazione Memmo

Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespeci c exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.

Fondazione Pasti cio Cerere

This non-pro t foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pasti ciocerere.com.

Fondazione Volume!

The Volume Foundation exhibits works created speci cally for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazi onevolume.com.

Franz Paludetto

Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.

Frutta

This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via dei Salumi 53 tel. 0645508934, www.fruttagallery.com.

Gagosian Gallery

The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

GALLA

Exhibition space designed to showcase original, unconven tional art works at a ordable prices by artists working in various elds. Via degli Zingari 28, tel. 3476552515, www.facebook.com/GALLAmonti.

Galleria Alessandro Bonomo Gallery showing the works of important Italian and interna tional visual artists. Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858, www.bonomogallery.com.

Galleria Valentina Bonomo

Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both interna tionally recognised and emerging artists who create works speci cally for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte

Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

High-pro le international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Galleria della Tartaruga

Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.

Galleria Il Segno

Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and interna tional artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.

Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.

This historic gallery holds group and solo exhibitions showcasing the work of major 20th-century Italian painters alongside promising new Italian artists. Via Alibert 20, tel.

A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.

Pian de Giullari

Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.

Plus Arte Puls

A dynamic gallery promoting street culture and contemporary art movements. Via di A ogalasino 34, www.galleriavarsi.it.

New York gallerist Gavin Brown shows the work of internatio nal artists at his Trastevere gallery in a deconsecrated church dating to the eighth century. S. Andrea de Scaphis, Via dei Vascellari 69, www.gavinbrown.biz.

Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of di erent generations. Via Giuseppe Acerbi 31A, tel. 0653098768, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.

Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.

Contemporary art gallery that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.ma

Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls.com.

Sala 1

This internationally known non-pro t contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contem porary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.

S.T. Foto libreria galleria Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contem porary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri

The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.

T293

The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it.

The Gallery Apart

This contemporary art gallery o ers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, t el. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.

Space dedicated to showcasing young international artists working in pop surrealism, lowbrow art, dark art, comic art and surrealism. Via Castruccio Castracane 9, tel. 0627801418,

This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.

TraleVolte

Contemporary art gallery focusing on the relationship between art and architecture, hosting solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org.

Von Buren Contemporary

Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com. Operativa Arte Contemporanea

Rome-based gallery specialising in a ordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via Giulia 13, tel. 3351633518, www.vonburencontemporary.com.

Wunderkammern

This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www.wunder kammern.net.

Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin

Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria o ers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it.

where to go in Rome WHAT’S ON

Universal personhood by Shepard Fairey at Galleria Rosso20sette. See page 32.

EXHIBITIONS

BOB DYLAN: RETROSPECTRUM

16 DEC-30 APRIL

Rome’s MAXXI presents an exhibition of visual art by veteran singer-songwriter Bob Dylan. Titled Retrospectrum, the show features Dylan’s oil paintings, acrylics, watercolours, ink drawings, pastel and charcoal works and a series of iron sculptures. Hailed as “the first European monographic exhibition to explore Dylan’s expansive visual oeuvre”, the show is divided into seven themed sections: Early Works, The Beaten Path, Drawn Blank, New Orleans, Ironworks, Mondo Scripto, and Deep Focus. Organisers

say the exhibition marks Dylan’s life-long journey of creating visual art, documenting the transformation

of the sources and styles that have inspired and influenced him over the decades. MAXXI, Via Guido Reni 4, www.maxxi.art.

SHEPARD FAIREY: POWER OF WOMEN

26 NOV-24 DEC

Rosso20sette arte contemporanea presents an exhibition by American contemporary artist and activist Shepard Fairey, aka Obey. The exhibition comprises 27 screenprinted portraits of some of the world’s most important female icons, with all works numbered and signed by the artist who is best known for his HOPE poster of Barack Obama. Via del Sudario 39, www.rosso27.com.

MARTA JOVANOVIĆ: MOTHERHOOD

25 NOV-20 JAN

Maja Arte Contemporanea presents Motherhood, the gallery’s first collaboration with performance artist Marta Jovanović. The sculpted pieces on display are the outcome of the eponymous performance staged by Jovanović in 2016 in Belgrade. During the performance, Jovanović struck 246 eggs hanging from the ceiling, rupturing them one by one. The eggs symbolically numbered each fertile day from the artist’s first menstruation to the date of the performance. The broken shells were then turned into unique electroformed copper

Endless Highway by Bob Dylan at MAXXI.

Marta Jovanović at Maja Arte Contemporanea.

sculptures, numbered and plated in 24K gold. “Each egg I broke during the performance is a missed opportunity at maternity in the name of art,” says Jovanović. Maja Arte Contemporanea, Via di Monserrato 30, www. majartecontemporanea.com.

LIANA MIUCCIO: VISUAL DIARY

18 NOV-12 MARCH

Rome’s municipal modern art gallery hosts Visual Diary, an innovative visual and literary exhibition by Liana Miuccio. The exhibition continues the artist’s ongoing study of identity, memory and migration through the juxtaposition of photographs and videos with excerpts from the Pulitzer Prize-winning writer Jhumpa Lahiri. Miuccio’s gaze, in dialogue with Lahiri’s excerpts, explores the search for identity and a sense of place through images of contemporary daily life. Organisers say the exhibition “invites visitors to participate in a collective experience that celebrates the quotidian life which unites us all.” Galleria d’Arte Moderna,

Via Francesco Crispi 24, www. galleriaartemodernaroma.it.

KARIN KNEFFEL

11 NOV-14 JAN

The Gagosian Gallery hosts an exhibition of new paintings by Karin Kneffel who addresses human portraiture for the first

time. Titled Face of a Woman, Head of a Child, this is Kneffel’s third exhibition with the gallery and her first solo exhibition in Rome in 25 years since her residency at Villa Massimo. Throughout her career Kneffel has reflected on the relationship between painting, space and time by layering and recombining objects, places, traces and incidents in her interior scenes and still lifes, painted in a realist manner. In her exhibition at the Gagosian, she depicts the faces of historical polychrome wooden figures, the gallery says, harnessing “the full powers of her painterly methods to describe in granular detail the strong contours and subtle nuances of each rustic sculpted and painted visage.” Gagosian Gallery, Via Francesco Crispi 16, www.gagosian.com.

A TIMELESS WONDER

25 OCT-29 JAN

Galleria Borghese dedicates an exhibition to oil painting on stone in the 16th and 17th century, reviving a practice from ancient Roman practice in response to the devastation that occurred during the Sack of Rome in 1527. Artists and patrons believed that paintings would be rendered immortal is painted on stone, with Venetian artist Sebastiano del Piombo leading the charge in developing the technique with oil paints. The exhibition, titled A Timeless Wonder. Painting on Stone in Rome in the Cinquecento and Seicento, is curated by Francesca Cappelletti and Patrizia Cavazzini. Comprising more than 60 works from Italian and international museums and important private collections, the show features works on a variety of stone surfaces by artists including Bronzino, del Piombo, Orazio Gentileschi, Carlo Saraceni and Antonio Tempesta. Galleria Borghese, Piazzale Scipione Borghese 5, www.galleriaborghese. beniculturali.it.

ROMA MEDIEVALE

21 OCT-5 FEB

An exhibition at Palazzo Braschi offers the chance to “rediscover

Liana Miuccio at Galleria d'Arte Moderna.

Roma Medievale at Palazzo Braschi. Roman mosaic, S. Luca Evangelista, circa 1230, Vatican Museums.

the lost face of Rome” between the sixth and 14th centuries, exploring the city’s pivotal role in Christian and Mediaeval Europe. Divided into nine sections, the exhibition aims to raise awareness of Rome in the Middle Ages, through its churches and palaces as well as daily life. There are more than 160 works on display including mosaics, frescoes and statues, from Roman public collections, churches and prestigious institutions such as the Vatican Museums. Organisers say the exhibition will also examine the rich patronage of popes and cardinals, the activity of artists and workshops, and the city’s fascination as “an essential pilgrimage destination even for kings and emperors.” Museo di Roma Palazzo Braschi, Piazza Navona 2, www.museodiroma.it.

RAOUL DUFY

14 OCT-26 FEB

Palazzo Cipolla hosts an exhibition dedicated to the French Fauvist painter Raoul Dufy (1877-1953). Known for his colourful, decorative style, the multifaceted Dufy was also a draftsman, printmaker, illustrator and designer. The exhibition, curated by Sophie Krebs and organised in collaboration with the

Museum of Modern Art in Paris, features about 150 works, including paintings, drawings, ceramics and fabrics. Organisers say this is the second exhibition on Dufy in Rome, after the 1984 show at the French Academy in Villa Medici. Palazzo Cipolla, Via del Corso 302, www. fondazioneterzopilastrointernazionale. it.

VAN GOGH

8 OCT-26 MARCH

Palazzo Bonaparte in the centre of Rome stages a major show of Van Gogh paintings. The exhibition comprises 50 works including a celebrated self portrait of the artist from 1887, three years before his death. All the works on display are from the Kröller Müller Museum in Otterlo in the Netherlands. The exhibition makes reference to the places where Van Gogh stayed, with a particular focus on the artist’s time in Paris. Alongside his celebrated self portrait, the exhibition includes The sower (June 1888), The hospital garden in Saint-Rémy (1889), The Ravine (1889) and Sorrowing old man (1890). Located in Piazza Venezia, the 17th-century Palazzo Bonaparte is best known as the home of Maria Letizia Ramolino, Napoleon’s mother, who watched the world

go by from the building’s green balcony from 1818 until her death in 1836. Piazza Venezia, www. mostrepalazzobonaparte.it.

L’IMPERO DI ARAGOSTE

6 OCT-8 JAN

Rome’s Via Veneto has been enlivened with 12 colourful installations by British artist Philip Colbert. The London-based artist works across the mediums of painting, sculpture, digital art, fashion, furniture and design, and he has exhibited in the world’s most prestigious galleries including The Tate Modern. Best known for his cheeky, satirical lobster characters, Colbert has been described in the media as “the godson of Andy Warhol” and “the crown prince of pop art”. His lobsters form part of a new public art project on Via Veneto, including the six-metre-high King Lobster which greets passersby with a royal crown and raised pincers.

LUCIO DALLA

22 SEPT-6 JAN

Rome’s Ara Pacis museum pays homage to the late Italian singersongwriter Lucio Dalla with a major exhibition dedicated to his life and career. The show, held on

Karin Kneffel at the Gagosian Gallery

the 10th anniversary of Dalla’s death, will trace the “human and artistic journey of one of the most beloved Italian and international artists”. On display are documents, photographs, record covers, stage costumes, video footage and memorabilia including his extensive collection of hats. Dalla is best remembered as the composer of Caruso, the 1986 hit subsequently covered by artists including Luciano Pavarotti and Julio Iglesias. Museo dell’Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta, www.arapacis.it.

DOMIZIANO IMPERATORE: ODIO E AMORE

13 JULY- 29 JAN

Villa Caffarelli at the Capitoline Museums stages an exhibition dedicated to Domitian, the last emperor of the Flavian dynasty, a complex character who was both loved and hated in life and in death. The exhibition, organised in collaboration with the Rijksmuseum in Holland, comprises almost 100 works, many of which are on loan from important international and Italian museums. On display are artefacts including marble and bronze busts of imperial figures and gods, marble elements of architectural decoration, and small objects in gold and bronze. Villa Caffarelli, Musei Capitolini, www. museicapitolini.org.

L’ELEFANTE E IL COLLE PERDUTO

8 APRIL-5

MARCH

An exhibition at Trajan’s Markets recalls how the skull and left tusk of an extinct elephant species were discovered during excavations to make way for Via dell’Impero in 1932. The fossilised remains belonged to a straight-tusked elephant (Palaeoloxodon antiquus) a prehistoric species that roamed Europe and western Asia during the Ice Age. The surprise discovery came about during frantic works to bulldoze a path through the Velia or Velian hill – a spur between the Oppian Hill and the north side of the Palatine – as part of Mussolini’s

plans to connect the Colosseum with Piazza Venezia. The rushed nature of the excavation meant the almost total loss of the garden of Villa Rivaldi, a Renaissance-era palace whose grounds stretched as far as the Basilica of Maxentius in the Roman Forum. Cutting through the Velia yielded rich archaeological finds from the Roman era, in particular the remains of a domus with well-preserved frescoes and numerous statues. The unearthed treasures were collected hastily and crated off to city warehouses. The most surprising discovery was made on 20 May 1932, when numerous fossilised remains came to light, among them the elephant skull and tusk. The remains of the elephant are on display alongside archaeological finds, archive film footage and large watercolours of the Villa Rivaldi garden, painted

before it was lost forever. Trajan’s Markets, on Via IV Novembre 94, www.mercatiditraiano.it.

CRAZY: MADNESS IN CONTEMPORARY ART

18 FEB-8 JAN

Chiostro del Bramante presents a large-scale exhibition project curated by Danilo Eccher. The works of 21 international artists fill the venue’s internal and external spaces “because madness cannot have limits.” The exhibition, described as unpredictable and immersive, features 11 site-specific works displayed in rooms not normally open to visitors. The 21 artists include Petah Coyne, Ian Davenport, Janet Echelman, Lucio Fontana, Anne Hardy, Thomas Hirschhorn, Alfredo Pirri, Gianni Politi. Chiostro del Bramante, Arco della Pace 5, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Vincent Van Gogh at Palazzo Bonaparte. L'amante (ritratto del sottotenente Milliet) Arles, 1888. © Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, The Netherlands.

CLASSICAL

ACCADEMIA S. CECILIA

EAST OF VIENNA / ANTONIO PAPPANO

8-10 DEC

Sir Antonio Pappano conducts the Orchestra e Chorus of the Accademia Nazionale di S. Cecilia, with tenor Clay Hilley. Music by Haydn, Kodály, Dvořák. 8 Dec 19.30, 9 Dec 20.30, 10 Dec 18.00. Sala Santa Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it.

MIKHAIL PLETNEV

12 DEC

Pianist Mikhail Pletnev performs

music by Brahms and Dvořák. 20.30. Sala Sinopoli, Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it.

SONG OF THE NIGHT 15-17 DEC

Sir Antonio Pappano conducts the Orchestra e Chorus of the

Accademia Nazionale di S. Cecilia in Song of the night, Mahler Symphony No. 7. 15 Dec 19.30, 16 Dec, 20.30, 17 Dec 18.00. Sala Santa Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it.

CONCERTO DI NATALE

22 DEC

Stanislav Kochanovsky, one of the most brilliant young conductors of today, returns to the podium of S. Cecilia, flanked by the solo voices of mezzo-soprano Agunda Kulaeva and tenor Sergey Radchenko. The ingredients for a perfect Christmas atmosphere are Alexandr Ostrovsky's "spring fairy tale", The Snow Maiden (Snegurochka) for which Tchaikovsky wrote the incidental music. 20.30. Sala Santa Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it.

DANCE

LO SCHIACCIANOCI 8-11 DEC

The Nutcracker. The Rome City Ballet dances this classic Christmas work by Tchaikovsky. Choreography by

FEstivalS

PIU’ LIBRI PIU’ LIBERI

7-11 DEC

The 2022 edition of the national fair for small and medium Italian book publishing houses will be held at the Nuvola conference centre in Rome’s EUR district. Now in its 20th year, Più libri più liberi offers a five-day literary programme of conferences, lectures, readings, theatre workshops, performances and presentations. The annual event was founded in 2002 by Italy’s small publishers’

association to give smaller publishing houses much needed visibility. Open each day 10.00-20.00, for full details see website, www.plpl.it.

ROMA GOSPEL FESTIVAL 22-31 DEC

Billed as the most important festival of its genre in Europe, the Roma Gospel Festival celebrates its 26th anniversary this year. Based once again at the Auditorium Parco della Musica, the festival features numerous choirs, often from the US. This year’s programme includes the Florida Inspirational Singers (23 Dec), Harlem Gospel Choir (25 Dec), the Brooklyn Gospel

Luciano Cannito, with Iana Salenko as the Sugar Plum Fairy and Dinu Tamazlacaru as the Nutcracker prince. Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www. filarmonicaromana.org.

Harlem Gospel Choir will perform in the Roma Gospel Festival.

Harmonettes (26 Dec), Brent Jones Gospel Choir (27-29 Dec) and Nate Martin & Sign (30-31 Dec). For full details see Auditorium website. Viale Pietro de Coubertin 30, www. auditorium.com.

Sir Antonio Pappano conducts East of Vienna.

The Nutcracker at Teatro Olimpico.

The

OPERA

TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA

DIALOGUES DES CARMÉLITES

27 NOV-6 DEC

Michele Mariotti conducts Dialogues des Carmélites, an opera in three acts and 12 scenes, with libretto after the work of the same name by Georges Bernanos, and music by Francis Poulenc. Emma Dante directs. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www. operaroma.it.

DON QUIXOTE

18-31 DEC

David Garforth conducts this ballet in three acts, based on episodes taken from the novel Don Quixote de la Mancha by Miguel de Cervantes with music by Ludwig Minkus, in a Teatro dell’Opera production choreographed by Laurent Hilaire. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it.

Theatre

RAPUNZEL THE MUSICAL

2 DEC-8 JAN

Maurizio Colombi directs this musical loosely based on the fairy tale by the Brothers Grimm, with Lorella Cuccarini in the lead role. Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, www.teatrobrancaccio.it.

CATS

7-31 DEC

The hit musical by English composer Andrew Lloyd Webber comes to Teatro Sistina. Produced by Peeparrow, the Italian version of the show will be directed by Massimo Romeo Piparo, with Malika Ayane as Grizabella. For the first time ever, the show will be set in Rome, amid ancient Roman ruins and with the

L’ELISIR D’AMORE 11-15 JAN

Francesco Lanzillotta conducts and Ruggero Cappuccio directs this melodramma giocoso (opera buffa)

in two acts by Italian composer Gaetano Donizetti. Libretto by Felice Romani, with the orchestra and chorus of Teatro dell’Opera di Roma. Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it.

The stage of Cats will be set in Rome.

Colosseum as the backdrop. Based on the poetry of T. S. Eliot, the musical tells the story of a tribe of cats and the night they make the “Jellicle choice”

by deciding which cat will ascend to the Heaviside layer and come back to a new life. Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, www.ilsistina.it.

Dialogues des Carmélites at Teatro dell'Opera di Roma. Photo Fabrizio Sansoni / TOR.

ROME’S OLD ABATTOIR TO HOST FINE ARTS ACADEMY

A major project is underway to transform a large part of Rome’s former abattoir in the Testaccio district into the headquarters of the city’s Academy of Fine Arts. The Città delle Arti (City of the Arts) plan will see the ex-Mattatoio site host the new 40,000-sqm base of the Accademia di Belle Arti di Roma under a 20-year concession, with the first stage of the works set for completion next June. The fine art academy, which has had two lecture rooms at the site since 2011, will be housed in former stables, barns and the octagonal Panottico building at the Mattatoio which was designed by Gioacchino Ersoch and served the city as a massive slaughterhouse from 1888 until 1975. Gualtieri described the concession to the Accademia di Belle Arti as “a fundamental element of the project that will see the birth of a true City of the Arts in this historic place for Rome, where creativity, innovation, art and culture will intertwine in a symbol of participation and inclusion.”

The works are the final part in the urban regeneration project at the ex-Mattatoio that will see the art academy join the Palaexpo company (which manages the city’s Palazzo delle Esposizioni, MACRO and Mattatoio art spaces), the faculty of architecture of the Roma Tre University, the Città dell’Altra Economia and the Popular School of Music of Testaccio.

at the Galleria d’Arte Moderna on Via Crispi. There is also a trilogy of exhibitions underway in Rome this autumn dedicated to Pasolini, at Palazzo Barberini, MAXXI and Palazzo delle Esposizioni. Among the numerous books marking the centenary is Caro Pier Paolo, a new collection of letters by the Italian writer Dacia Maraini who documents travels with her close friend Pasolini and her partner, the novelist Alberto Moravia. Other new publications delve into the mystery surrounding Pasolini’s unsolved murder at Ostia near the Italian capital on 2 November 1975. There will also be shows devoted to Pasolini in cities around Italy including his home-town of Bologna where he was born on 5 March 1922. A major figure on the Roman cultural scene in the post-war period, Pasolini was an important protagonist in European literature and cinematic arts. He is best remembered for films including Accattone, Mamma Roma and Salò, or the 120 Days of Sodom, and literary works Ragazzi di vita and Una vita violenta.

ROME UNVEILS MURAL FOR ENNIO MORRICONE

ITALY CELEBRATES 100 YEAR OF PASOLINI

Italy is marking the centenary of the birth of the film director, poet, writer and intellectual Pier Paolo Pasolini with a series of special events in 2022. Rome pays homage to Pasolini with a year-long programme called PPP100 with readings, theatre, film screenings and an exhibition of his paintings

Rome paid tribute to the celebrated Italian composer Ennio Morricone with a large-scale mural on the facade of a social-housing building in the Tor Marancia neighbhourhood. The tribute to the maestro was organised by AS Roma football club, of which Morricone was a keen supporter, and the Lazio region. Located in Piazza Lorenzo Lotto, the mural is the latest in a series around the city - all painted by Rome street artist Lucamaleonte and commissioned by AS Roma - dedicated to well known Roman figures including Alberto Sordi, Gigi Proietti, Lando Fiorini, Anna Magnani and Sergio Leone.

Andy Devane

New life for the old Mattatoio in Testaccio.

Lucamaleonte pays tribute to Ennio Morricone.

ROME WANTED in junior

The Landscapes of Michael Longley’s Soul

By Susanna B. and Margherita S., Editors of Marymount International School Rome’s Newspaper, The Royal Liar

The word of choice when describing the talk given by the Irish poet Michael Longley at Marymount In ternational School on the evening of 9 November is ‘enlightening’. In Rome to receive the Feltrinelli In ternational Poetry Prize 2022, one of the world’s top literary accolades, it was a great privilege to have one of the greatest contemporary English-speaking po ets join our community’s Marymount Talks session, kindly facilitated by the embassy of Ireland in Italy.

The talk was enlightening because, through his po ems and his droll sense of humour, the author was able to communicate a deep and personal message to the audience. All the poems the author read to us were dedicated to a person or place he cherishes. From the poem about the Ice Cream Man murdered by the IRA, to the one about his granddaughter’s model of the Solar System, and despite the vast topics of his writing, they all conveyed a deep and personal meaning. When he recounted a memorial of a lost friend, his voice immediately grew mournful, but when he read about his grandchildren, his pride and happi ness as a grandfather shone through his smile and the loving tone of his voice. Longley said that “life is an airport with arrivals and departures”. This analogy is a recurring theme in his poetry and when he read us his works, it was as if with every poem he was projecting a clip of his memories. Longley’s inability to stand and deliver the talk was of no hindrance to the depth of his words; on

the contrary, it was as if he was sitting there next to each of us, reading his poems by a warm fireplace, taking us straight to Northern Ireland, the Scottish Highlands, or his casa in Tuscany, his "Sole (Soul) Landscapes".

Longley’s work was also thoughtfully paired with some of his daughter Sarah Longley’s artwork, so the audience could visualise the verses that were be ing read to them. During his speech, Longley gifted us with incredible pearls of wisdom, such as the idea that anyone who ever wrote a line of poetry can be considered a poet. People from within and outside the Marymount community came to listen to him, including renowned author Sally Rooney. Mr Longley was also very happy to make us students laugh with his pungent Irish humour both during the talk and afterwards. His witty personality and his beguiling verses were a true gift to the audience and left a lasting impression.

WANTED IN ROME JUNIOR: For young writers and artists

Wanted in Rome accepts creative contributions from students in all international schools in Rome. Articles on topics related to either the student’s life in Rome or their school projects can be submitted by their class teachers. The work should be no more than 1,000 words and we also accept illustrations. Teachers who would like to propose a project can contact editorial@wantedinrome.com.

Marymount International School Rome, Via di Villa Lauchli 180, tel. 063629101, www.marymountrome.com.

By Kate Zagorski

PANGIALLO: ROMAN CHRISTMAS CAKE

PANGIALLO HAS BEEN A TRADITIONAL CHRISTMAS TREAT IN ROME SINCE ANCIENT ROMAN TIMES

Literally meaning “yellow bread,” pangiallo is a traditional Roman sweet eaten at Christmas.

It is made from a mixture of dried and candied fruit, nuts, citrus peel, honey and dark chocolate which are combined and formed into a dome shape. The cake is brushed with a sa ron glaze and baked in the oven to create a golden yellow outer crust and a dense, rich, sticky interior.

Pangiallo is originally an ancient recipe from the Roman Imperial age when it was made and gifted during the winter solstice to wish for the return of the sun, hence its colour and round shape.

Nowadays pangiallo is harder to track down than the more di used festive treats such as panforte or panpepato, yet it can still be found in some of the artisanal bakeries of the city around the yuletide period.

However, preparing pangiallo at home is very simple and will ll your house with a delicious warm aroma. The recipe below is a basic guideline, but you could also add dried gs, pine nuts or spices such as nutmeg, ginger or cinnamon according to your own taste. Once made it keeps well so it makes an excellent homemade Christmas gift for friends and family.

PANGIALLO

80g almonds 80g hazelnuts 80g walnuts 40g pistachios 100g sultanas

40g mixed candied fruit 100g honey 100g dark chocolate Grated zest of 1 lemon Grated zest of 1 orange 80g our 00

Preheat the oven to 180°C. Place the dark chocolate into a glass bowl over a pan of boiling water and melt until smooth. While the chocolate is melting roughly chop the almonds, hazelnuts, walnuts and pistachios and put into a large mixing bowl.

Add the grated lemon and orange zest, the sultanas and the candied fruit and combine everything together well using a fork. Add the honey and continue to mix as you gradually pour in the melted chocolate. Lastly add the our and, once combined, use your hands to push down and form a compact dough.

Place the dough on a baking tray lined with greaseproof paper and use your hands to mould it into a dome shape. To make the golden glaze put 2 tablespoons of our into a clean bowl, add the olive oil and sa ron and mix. Then gradually add cold water, bit by bit, until you have a thick, creamy texture. Brush the glaze over the top of the dome until it is completely covered then bake in the oven at 180°C for 35-40 minutes until the outer crust is rm.

Kate Zagorski has lived in Italy since 2000. Married to a food-obsessed Roman chef, she leads food tours and also works as a freelance food and travel writer.

The best wine bars in Rome: ten of our favourites that also serve food

Brylla – Trieste

Brylla is a modern wine bar with a a very smart idea: Coravin. Thanks to an unusual contraption, the bottles can be opened but still keep well. The outcome is extraordinary, you can try a glass of anything on the menu. And that’s hundreds of different grapes, from a more modest wine to a Chateau Lafitte, either for a taster, by the glass, half bottle or bottle. There’s a fairly good menu too (but you could find better). Via Chiana 77, tel. 0685355669.

Fafiuché – Monti

Fafiuché is a small sanctuary, a haven, a shelter from life’s chaos. On a backstreet in Monti is the wine bar where you’ll find high quality Piedmont wines and also delicious dishes, such as braised meat, mixed plates of meats and cheeses accom panied by preserves. If you are lucky you might be able to nab one of the (few) tables outside. Via della Madonna dei Monti 28, tel. 066990968.

Litro – Monteverde

Litro has much to say for it and little wrong with it: the location is great with a lovely outdoor space. The staff are passionate and attentive. The wine list (all organic) is excellent. The wines are made with the highest quality ingredients, unlike other wines you might find round and about. Via Fratelli Bonnet 5, tel. 0645447639.

Sogno Autarchico – Prati

Near the Sorpasso house, this venue isn’t particu larly nice indoors – the room is crammed with a large bar, a few tables and a lounge area. But this wine bar earns a prized place on our list, thanks to Gianni Ruggiero, who is also the sommelier at Simposio. You’ll find regulars here spanning all sorts of ages, who hold this bar in high regard. Via Properzio 32, tel. 0668801310.

Il Sorí – S. Lorenzo

Small and cosy, an oasis in S. Lorenzo, hidden amongst an array of fast food eateries with outdoor seating. Sorì really knows its stuff about wines, and also about cooking. As well as other delicious dishes you can try the excellent Gallega octopus (€15), the crispy toasted patanegra (Spanish ham, the beef tartare or wild boar cheek. Via dei Volsci 51, tel. 3934318681.

Remigio Champagne e Vino – Appio

Remigio is a hidden gem between via Tuscolana and Appia. There’s a wide variety of champagne and sparkling wines available, but there are also

a great number of still wines to choose from. We recommend pairing a glass of wine with the steak tartare, which is one of the best around. All the dishes are excellent, especially the crostini, pastra mi, and salted cod. Also open at lunchtime. Via S. Maria Ausiliatrice 15, tel 06789228.

La Barrique – Monti

At this very popular bar you can have an enjoyable meal alone, at one of the wooden tables, gazing at the shelves that show off the many wine bottles. The array of wines is truly excellent, and includes some organic bottles. They also offer wine by the glass, and you can choose between slightly cheaper wines or some rather special ones. There aren’t many dishes on offer, but there’s always something tasty. Via del Boschetto 41/b, tel 0647825953.

Il Goccetto – Historic centre

An institution, one of the city’s first wine bars, a cult spot for Romans and tourists looking for a touch of the gourmet. They both sit by the bar waiting for an extraordinary platter of meats and cheeses which they wash down with a glass of wine. Cosy and intimate, il Goccetto is a perfect mix between a wine bar offering 800 bottles and a Venetian bacaro (the venetian word for wine bar). Truly one of the best wine bars in Rome. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 14, tel 066864268.

Al Vino al Vino – Monti

While there might not always be an enthusiastic and jolly atmosphere it’s definitely worth a visit. The owner Giacomo is a man of few words, who watches football games on the television while preparing the cheese and meat boards. Unfortu nately these are the only things on the menu, other than a very saucy aubergine parmigiana. We recommend taking your glass outside and watching passersby. There is a good selection of wines on offer. Via dei Serpenti 19, tel. 06485803.

Trimani Wine Bar – Fiume

Trimani has just celebrated its 25th birthday, and at this respectable age has certainly become one of Rome’s most classic wine bars. Elegant and a little formal, there’s an intimate atmosphere and an excellent kitchen. They serve an age-old dish, crostino with lard from the butcher Silvio Brarda and mozzarella. You can also enjoy carpacci, buffalo mozzarella and many other dishes. It is filled with tables, there are no stools at the bar.

Via Cernaia 37, tel. 064469630.

Sometimes an excellent wine bar can be even better than a good restaurant, and for this reason we have put together a definitive list www.puntarellarossa.it

Associations

American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org

American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org

Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com

Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com

Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net

Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com

Daughters of the American Revolution Pax Romana Chapter NSDAR paxromana@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com

Books

The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified.

Almost Corner Bookshop

Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942

Anglo American Bookshop Via delle Vite 27, tel. 066795222

Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it

La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com

Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it

Religious

All Saints’ Anglican Church

Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881

Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30

Anglican Centre

Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com

Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org

Bible Baptist Church

Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00

Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425

Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464

Church of Sweden

Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish)

International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490, www.iwcofrome.it Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 3338466820

Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Woman’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com

Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484 Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com Otherwise

Via del Governo Vecchio, tel. 066879825, www.otherwisebookshop.com

Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 3332284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it

International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695

International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761

Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday Service 10.30

Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic)

Via dei SS. Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00

Roma Baptist Church

Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese)

Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091

Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org

Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico)

Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258

St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00

St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic) Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00

Support groups

Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.com

Archè (HIV+children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it

Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306

Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/06582045580, www.ryderitalia.it

Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it

Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily

Caritas foreigners’ support centre

Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554

Caritas hostel

Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235

Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369

Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 3381675680

Transport

• Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it

• Ciampino airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it

• Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it

• Taxi tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157066645-064994

• Traffic info tel. 1518

• Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it

St Isidore College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00

St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic), Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827, www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30

St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30

Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00

Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for disabled tel. 800271027

Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339

Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772

Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri” Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351

Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104

The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022

Chiamaroma

24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Emergency numbers

• Ambulance tel. 118

• Carabinieri tel. 112

• Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336

• Fire brigade tel. 115

• Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999

• Police tel. 113

• Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355