Wanted in Rome - March 2020 by Wanted in Rome

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THEE ENGLISH TH ENGLISSH LANGUAGE ENGLI L ANG NGUUAG E M MAGAZINE AG A ZIN INEE IN IN ROME ROM RO ME

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WHERE TO GO IN ROME ART AND CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT GALLERIES MUSEUMS NEWS

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CONT

EDITORIALS Marco Venturini

6. SWEET SORROW: ROME'S NON-CATHOLIC CEMETERY Mary Wilsey

10. ROMAN BUTTERFLIES Gerry Firth

WHAT'S ON

16. TO DO CALENDAR 18. cultural academies 22. MUSEUMS 26. ART GALLERIES 48. CULTURAL VENUES 52. Wanted in Rome junior 54. STREET ART guide 57. RECIPE 58. PUNTARELLA ROSSA 62. USEFUL NUMBERS

DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: Marco Venturini EDITRICE: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9 PROGETTO GRAFICO E IMPAGINAZIONE: Dali Studio Srl STAMPA: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c. DIFFUSIONE: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425. Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131del 6/3/1985. Finito di stampare il 29/02/2020

THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME

Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 12, Numero 3 MARCH 2020 | € 2,00

4. INTERVIEW WITH JIM DINE

MISCELLANY

31. EXHIBITIONS 37. Classical 39. ROCk, POP, JAZZ 39. DANCE 42. ART NEWS 44. OPERA 44. Theatre 46. academies 47. SPORT 47. ST PATRICK'S DAY

Copies are on sale at: Newsstands in Rome Anglo American Bookstore, Via della Vite 102 Wanted in Rome, Via di Monserrato 49 Wanted in Rome Via di Monserrato 49 - tel. 066867967 advertising@wantedinrome.com editorial@wantedinrome.com www.wantedinrome.com www.wantedinmilan.com

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APOLOGY We apologise in relation to the publication of the cover image on the February 2020 edition. The image, published in good faith on our behalf, was - unknown to us - the property of The Good Life Italia magazine.

Four Soap Dishes, 1962 oil and oggetti on canvas 124 x 104 x 4 cm The Sonnabend Collection and Antonio Homem. On long term loan to Ca’ Pesaro-Galleria Internazionale d’Arte Moderna, Venezia. Exhibition at Palazzo delle Esposizioni, see page 34.

ENTS 4

INTERVIEW WITH JIM DINE

Exhibitions

ROMAN BUTTERFLIES

47 Festivals

Art

INTERVIEW WITH JIM DINE Wanted in Rome put some questions to the celebrated AMERICAN artist Jim Dine whose work is currently the focus of a major exhibition at Palazzo delle Esposizioni in Rome Marco Venturini WIR: This retrospective at Pala Expo, whose installation you have overseen closely, showcases over 60 works from 1959 to 2016. Looking back over your career, were there any particular high and low points? JD: I have been a lucky guy. This life in art has been rich and full of provocation and satisfaction. I was born a painter and that was and is a privilege. WIR: You are one of the few foreign academicians at Rome's prestigious Accademia di S. Luca, along with the late Cy Twombly.

What are your memories of Cy, Rauschenberg and Jasper Johns, all of whom had strong connections with the Eternal City? JD: I was honoured by Gianni Dessi to be made a member of the Accademia di S. Luca. As a very young man, I lived in the same city as de Kooning. That is a strong connection. WIR: You have spoken in the past of your appreciation of Italian artists including Burri, Giacometti and Morandi. Are there other Italian artists from the 20th century, or indeed previous

A Thin Kindergarten Picture, 1974. Parigi, Centre Pompidou, Musée national d’art moderne-Centre de création industrielle. Gift Jim Dine 2018. © Audrey Laurans - Centre Pompidou, MNAM-CCI /Dist. RMN-GP © Adagp, Paris.

4 | March 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Jim Dine installing his show at Palazzo delle Esposizioni in Rome.

centuries, whose work has influenced your own; and are there emerging Italian artists whose work you admire today? JD: I have been a close looker at the work of de Pisis. He was a wonderful painter. WIR: You have a long association with Italy, and your work has had a major impact on Italian art. How has Italy influenced you personally and how would you describe your relationship with Rome? JD: Since I was just in my 20s Europe has been my spiritual home. WIR: What do you think of the general international political situation and the role of Europe on the world stage? JD: I try not to think of the vile Trump inspired political situation in the US. Also I despise the way he has willy-nilly set out to ruin the world. The Jim Dine exhibition is at Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Via Nazionale 194, until 2 June. For full details see website www.palazzoesposizioni.it.

Nancy and I at Ithaca (Straw Heart), 1966-1969. Parigi, Centre Pompidou, Musée national d’art moderne-Centre de création industrielle. Gift Jim Dine 2017. © Audrey Laurans - Centre Pompidou, MNAM-CCI /Dist. RMN-GP © Adagp, Paris.

Wanted in Rome • March 2020 | 5

History

SWEET SORROW: ROME'S NON-CATHOLIC CEMETERY The capital's Non-Catholic Cemetery is an active place of mourning as well as being a treasure trove of history Mary Wilsey The cemetery is an open space among the ruins, covered in winter with violets and daisies. It might make one in love with death, to think that one should be buried in so sweet a place. Shelley’s preface to his poem Adonais (1821) Shelley’s three-year-old son William was buried in “so sweet a place” in the summer of 1819, his friend and fellow poet, John Keats, early in 1821, and only a year later it was Shelley’s turn. His body was cremated on the beach where he drowned near Livorno in summer 1822 but his ashes were brought to the cemetery in Rome; not to be placed in that “open space” he loved so much, but in the new cemetery, up close to the Aurelian walls. One wonders what Mary Shelley, still in her early 20s, must have thought of so much death. But Shelley was right, and this is still a special place. Here ugliness gives way to beauty, darkness to light, sadness to a sense of peace. Young

Non-Catholic Cemetery illustration by Jane Horton.

6 | March 2020 • Wanted in Rome

couples in love with life wander among the graves, volunteers welcome you with smiles, cats meander across the grass, and flowers and bushes push up through the smallest of spaces, living nature among the dead. These days there are not only the violets and daisies as described by Shelley, but a magnificent memorial garden of trees and flowering shrubs; wisteria, iris, roses, plumbago, olives, and of course the pines and cypresses. The Non-Catholic Cemetery is fortunate in its setting, although that was not the intention when the first burials took place there in the early 18th century. The open grazing ground for sheep near the Pyramid of Cestius was to provide for the mainly Protestant supporters of the deposed Catholic Stuart king of England and Scotland, exiled in Rome. It was an alternative solution for Protestants who were not allowed access to Catholic places of burial. Above all it was a long way from the inhabited parts of the city. In 1821 it would have been a considerable effort for Joseph Severn to get the body of his young friend, John Keats, from Piazza di Spagna, where he had died of tuberculosis, to the foot of the pyramid, especially when there were strict measures in force against contagion from the disease. Keats was among the last to be buried on the original site which was closed in 1822 by the papal authorities, who feared that the growing number of mounds and monuments there would eventually impede the view and access to the pyramid. New ground was made available alongside, on the slope beneath the Aurelian walls. This is the part that now rises steeply from the large entrance gate up to the walls and towers

History

Rome's Non-Catholic Cemetery is located in the shadow of the Pyramid of Caius Cestius.

and then through various tiers and the additional zones added over the following decades.* The once-open space described by Shelley is now enclosed. And instead of being a place of exclusion from Catholic cemeteries it has become one of the most sought-after burial places in the city, but still almost exclusively for nonCatholics. Although initially it was mainly north European and American Protestants who were buried there, hence the once popular name of the Protestant cemetery, there is also an Orthodox section, and Jewish and Muslim graves. There are inscriptions in more than 15 languages. The cemetery is both an Italian site of interest and has been listed as a Unesco World Heritage Site since 1980. Poets of course will make for the graves of Keats and Shelley, and Italian historians and politicians for the last resting place of Antonio Gramsci, neo-Marxist philosopher and founder of the Italian Communist Party. Contemporary artists will look for Jannis Kounellis and the followers of the Inspector Montalbano novels can now visit the grave of the Sicilian writer Andrea Camilleri who was buried there last summer. Others may visit for the 19thcentury funeral monuments and sculpture and some may just want to soak up the inspiration from this treasure trove of history. But for all its attractions the Non-Catholic Cemetery is first and foremost a working cemetery. The director, Amanda Thursfield, is ever mindful of

that delicate balance between a place of mourning and an historical site loved by tourists. Very aware that she is constantly working with the bereaved, one of her most endearing policies is to keep a space for one coffin burial permanently available at any time. Certainly as a mourning relative, up against so many new problems, one would feel immediate relief and comfort to be surrounded by the kindness and thoughtfulness of Thursfield. She combines a feeling of warmth with a quiet confidence about the daily work of running a cemetery. She estimates that there are probably on average about 20 coffin burials a year, which is not a great deal, but as cremations become more and more frequent the requests for placing ashes and plaques have increased, as have those for memorial and thanksgiving services for loved ones. It is one of the oldest burial grounds in constant use in Europe. But the history of the cemetery has been chequered with difficulties between the foreign legations in Rome and the papal authorities who once ruled the city, and then by the new city government after unification of Italy in 1870. It has been fought over, literally, a couple of times, first in the 1848 uprising to establish the Republic of Rome and then again at the end of world war two as Allied troops battled their way into the city. Damage was soon put to rights, but at the end of the 20th century, and even in the first few years of the new one, not only were the doors almost permanently shut, but the cemetery was near insolvency. Thanks to Thursfield and a group Wanted in Rome â&#x20AC;˘ March 2020 | 7

History Many of the pines and the cypresses, which had been neglected for years, were diseased and dangerously old. Fallen branches and trees are difficult (and expensive) to extract from the tightly-packed graves but also a danger to both people and the monuments. In spring 2019 a cypress split in two one night but luckily only caused slight damage to the Obolenskaya tomb which had only recently been restored.

The Scuola Popolare di Musica di Testaccio bid farewell to Geoffrey Watson on 8 February. Photo courtesy David Cull.

of volunteers it is now open from 09.00-17.00 Monday to Friday, all day Saturday and on Sunday until 12.30. In addition strict accounting, as well as donations from a dedicated group of Friends of the Cemetery, has meant that the cemetery is once again solvent. A committee of 15 ambassadors (the British ambassador took over as president from the Finnish ambassador last year), a lawyer, a treasurer and an expert in the restoration of monuments now keeps vigilant control. When Thursfield took over in 2008 another of her jobs was to reorganise the administration. This has included data-basing the 2,500 burial plots in the cemetery, which has simplified the collection of the annual fees, which were badly in arrears before she became director. For a single burial plot these amount to about €600 a year between the concession, which lasts for 30 years and is renewable, and the annual maintenance. The daily administration is considerable, whether keeping up with the active concessions or organising the lengthy procedures (and often quite expensive ones) for the gradual removal of the remains in the non-active graves (about half of the 2,500 total) to free up space. A more unexpected aspect is looking after the trees and plants, not to mention the cats. The 435 trees in her charge are demanding and now all have frequent health checks and if any need to be taken out, they are replaced by new ones. 8 | March 2020 • Wanted in Rome

For all of this the cemetery remains a place of inspiration, whether for literature, the visual arts, or even just the history of its foreign community. This has become even more so with the recent opening of a small space for exhibitions not far from the visitors’ centre. It has already hosted several artists, including one last summer of works by Edith Schloss, art critic of Wanted in Rome for many years. The celebration was to mark the 100th anniversary of her birth and it seemed fitting that her grave was only a short walk away. Over the years the cemetery has also become a special place in Wanted in Rome’s history, with the death of many of its founders and friends buried or remembered there. The most recent event was to give thanks for the life of Geoffrey Watson. For many years Geoffrey was one of the pillars of the magazine and the Milan website, but his role started long before that, when as head of the British embassy press office he always treated the fledgling magazine with the same respect as he did the big national and international media. After he retired he became part of our team, keeping us on the straight and narrow with his unflinching attention to detail. His meticulous proof reading, his anecdotes and his comments became a vital part of the office buzz. It was very much in keeping with Geoffrey and the cemetery that he had a happy send-off by his family, friends and the Scuola Popolare di Musica di Testaccio on 8 February. Sadly only 24 hours later we heard of the death of the sculptor Peter Rockwell. Peter was another friend and supporter of Wanted in Rome for many years, with his illustrations, articles and advice. He died in his native United States but in the spring his ashes will be brought back to the cemetery, where he worked tirelessly as a volunteer, sculptor and a world expert on stone carving during his last years in Rome. Here he will rest beside his wife Cinny. * Nicholas Stanley-Price wrote a detailed history of many aspects of the cemetery to mark the 300th anniversary of the first burial there in 1716.

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Nature Opera

ROMAN BUTTERFLIES A HANDY GUIDE TO THE BUTTERFLIES OF ROME Gerry Firth

utterflies are insects and, as with other insects, they have six legs and wings. Their wings are coated with tiny scales which will come off on one’s fingertips if handled. In fact, butterflies belong to the insect order Lepidoptera from the Greek meaning scaly wings.

With their bright colours and elegant flying, these insects brighten the parks and streets of Rome in the spring and summer months, or even in late autumn and early spring when those butterflies which hibernate are still taking the sun or hoping for some sunshine.

Butterflies all over the world have been in decline for some time now; 20 years ago one could record more than 20 different species a year on one’s balcony in Rome, now only five or six. This diminishing is due partly to the worldwide use of insecticides in agriculture, with many other insect populations also shrinking for the same reason.

If one wants to watch butterflies the best place to do it is where there are many flowers. Most flowers produce nectar, a sweet liquid containing glucose, which is a simple sugar full of energy. Butterflies, since they do an enormous amount of flying, are in particular need of energy sources and nectar is exactly that.

Rome, with its many parks and trees (which are not treated with insecticides in the same way as weeds and wild flowers are) can still boast of about 60 different species out of Italy’s 300 or so and they are beautiful to behold.

To find public parks where suitable flowers will be in bloom there is a book available: Guida al Verde di Roma which is produced by the Comune di Roma. It lists and describes over 50 public gardens in Rome, many of which are rich in flowerbeds where

Swallowtail butterfly

10 | March 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Nature

Peacock butterfly

butterflies abound. Just try walking through Villa Torlonia on a sunny day in spring or summer. It is amazing to see such richness of butterfly species and is ideal for photography. The photographs can be studied at home and, with a good book the insects can usually easily be identified.

of Europe. The Swallowtail, Papilio machaon, is widespread in Europe. The Scarce Swallowtail, iphiclides podalirius, is also common all over Europe except for the British Isles where it rarely arrives, hence the name. This one qualifies as a pest since its caterpillars feed on the leaves of fruit trees.

Photographing butterflies needs quite a lot of practise, experience and a decent zoom lens. When the insect to be photographed has been sighted, approach your subject slowly, avoiding casting a shadow which would certainly result in the butterfly flying away. Then attempt to compose the photo on the screen or viewfinder before making the exposure. At first the beginner will be rather disappointed but with experience results will improve.

Peacock and Red Admiral These two butterflies are common in Rome and they have stinging nettles in common since their caterpillars feed on the leaves of that plant. Nettles grow prolifically on any piece of wasteland, including pavements at the junction with walls. Sadly the comune of Rome removes these plants simply by hacking them down in many areas of the city which explains a little why the butterflies are not as common as they once were.

Geranium Bronze These butterflies, cacireus marshalli, have a story to tell. They are natives of South Africa where their larvae (caterpillars) feed on wild plants of the geranium family. They were first recorded on the Spanish island of Mallorca in 1990 where the importation of geranium plants from South Africa brought caterpillars of these butterflies with them. The butterflies rapidly spread to other islands, to mainland Spain and then France and most of southern Europe. They are still on the agricultural pests list in spite of their delicate beauty.

Small Tortoiseshell and Large Tortoiseshell Named after their particular colouring, these two, although in the same family (Nymphalidae), are not particularly close to each other as their food plants show. The smaller one, with white tips to its forewings, lays its eggs on stinging nettles whereas the larger one uses various trees as its food plant, a term which refers to the caterpillars’ food, where eggs are deposited. The adults feed on nectar and other nourishing liquids such as fruit juices.

Swallowtails Two Swallowtail species are on the list of agricultural pests and are very common in most

Brimstone These yellow butterflies, which carry the old name for the element sulphur, are believed to be responsible for the name “butterfly”. One problem for the photographer is that, unlike nearly all Wanted in Rome • March 2020 | 11

Nature Opera

Red Admiral butterfly

others, when at rest they always hold their wings vertically above them. Most butterflies vary from verticle to horizontal wings when at rest. The two species, Brimstone and Cleopatra, are very similar with the same food plant of the Rhamnus (blackthorn) family. The most obvious difference between the two is the patch of orange colour on the forewings of the male cleopatra. The females are much paler with a little orange marking on the underwings where they meet the thorax. Fritillaries There are about 55 species of fritillaries in Europe, nine or ten of which frequent Italy with only a few reaching Rome. The name fritillary originates from the French term for a dice box and the butterfly is speckled in a similar pattern. The common one in Rome is the Queen of Spain fritillary with its underside beautifully blotched with silver spangles. Blues (Lycaenidae) This is the family of “Blue” butterflies of which there are over 100 species in Europe and Italy, and Rome has its fair share so one is pretty sure of seeing them. They are mostly rather small and quite a few are coloured in shades of brown rather than blue or partly so. Straight forward identification is difficult and upper side, undersides, number, colour and arrangement of markings, mostly spots, need to be 12 | March 2020 • Wanted in Rome

examined carefully. A typical example is the tailed blues which are fairly common in summer since they are migrants from the south and often need to feed and require nectar-bearing flowers. The Long Tailed Blue and Lang’s Short Tailed Blue are very similar but just look at their undersides and the difference is clear. The Long Tailed Blue has a broad white stripe from bottom to top of the wings whereas Lang’s has a totally different arrangement of brown and white stripes. Butterfly or moth? Both are lepidopterra but they have some easily noticeable differences. The antennae of butterflies are swollen or knobbed at the ends. Those of moths are either straight or with no knob. When at rest moths fold their wings close to the body with the forewings covering the hind wings. Butterflies fly in the day time (sunworshippers) whereas moths are mostly night flyers. There are however exceptions in both cases and daytime moths tend to be brightly coulored unlike the “normal” night flyers. Additional reading Collins Field Guide to Butterflies of Britain and Europe excellent and more than enough for someone beginning to search for and identify these insects. Many other guides confine their texts to particular parts of Europe only.

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ARTandSEEK English-language cultural workshops and visits to museums and exhibitions for children in Rome. For event details tel. 3315524440, email artandseekforkids@gmail.com, or see website, www.artandseekforkids.com. Bioparco Rome's Bioparco has over 1,000 animals and offers special activities for children and their families at weekends and during the summer. When little legs get tired, take a ride around the zoo on an electric train. Open daily. Viale del Giardino Zoologico 20 (Villa Borghese), tel. 063608211, www.bioparco.it. Bowling Silvestri This sports club has an 18-hole mini golf course, with good facilities for children aged 4 and over, adults and disabled children.

14 | March 2020 â&#x20AC;˘ Wanted in Rome

There are also tennis courts, a table tennis room and a pizzeria. Via G. Zoega 6 (Monteverde/Bravetta), tel. 0666158206, www.bowlingsilvestri.com. Casa del Parco Eco-friendly workshops, in Italian, in which kids can learn about nature and how to care for the environment. Located in the Valle dei Casali nature park. Via del Casaletto 400, tel. 3475540409, www.valledeicasali.com. Casina di Raffaello Play centre in Villa Borghese offering a programme of animated lectures, creative workshops, cultural projects and educational activities for children from the age of three. Tues-Fri 14.30, Sat-Sun 11.00 and 17.00. Viale della Casina di Raffaello (Porta Pinciana), tel. 060608, www.casinadiraffaello.it.

Cinecittà World This 25-hectare theme park dedicated to the magic of cinema features high-tech attractions, real and virtual roller coasters, aquatic shows such as Super Splash, giant elephant rides and attractions with cinematic special effects. Located about 10 km from EUR, south of Rome. Via di Castel Romano, S.S. 148 Pontina, www.cinecittaworld.it. Climbing Associazione Sportiva Climbing Side. Basic and competitive climbing courses for 6-18 year olds. Tues, Thurs. Via Cristoforo Colombo 1800 (Torrino/Mostacciano), tel. 3356525473. Explora The 2,000-sqm Children’s Museum organises creative workshops for small children in addition to holding regular animated lectures, games and meetings with authors of children’s books. Via Flaminia 80/86, tel. 063613776, www.mdbr.it. Go-karting Club Kartroma is a circuit with go-karts for children over 9 and two-seater karts for an adult and a child under 8. Closed Mon. For details see website. Via della Muratella (Ponte Galeria), tel. 0665004962, www.kartroma.it. Gymboree This children's centre caters to little people aged from 0-5 years, offering Play and Learn activities, music, art, baby play, school skills and even English theatre arts. Gymboree @ Chiostro del Bramante (Piazza Navona), Via Arco della Pace 5, www.gymbo.it. Hortis Urbis Association providing hands-on horticultural workshops for children, usually in Italian but sometimes in English, in the Appia Antica park. Weekend activities include sowing seeds, cultivating plants and harvesting vegetables. Junior gardeners must be accompanied by a parent or guardian. Via Appia Antica 42/50, www.hortusurbis.it. Il Nido Based in Testaccio, this association supports expectant mothers, parents, babies and small children. It holds regular educational and social events, many of them in English. Via Marmorata 169 (Testaccio), tel. 0657300707, www.associazioneilnido.it.

Luneur Located in the southern EUR suburb, Luneur is Italy’s oldest amusement park. Highlights include ferris wheel, roller coaster, carousel horses, bamboo tunnel, maze, giant swing and a Wizard of Oz-style farm. Aimed at children aged up to 12. Entry fee €2.50, payable in person or online. Via delle Tre Fontane 100, www.luneurpark.it. Rainbow Magicland The 38 attractions at Rome's biggest theme park are divided into three categories: brave, everyone, and kids. Highlights include down-hill rafting, a water roller coaster through Mayan-style pyramids, and the Shock launch coaster. Located in Valmonte, south-east of the capital. Via della Pace, 00038 Valmontone, www.rainbowmagicland.it. Time Elevator A virtual reality, multi-sensorial 5-D cinema experience with a motion-base platform, bringing the history of Rome to life in an accessible and fun way. The time-machine's commentary is available in six languages including English. Daily 11.00-19.30. €12 adults, €9 kids. Via dei SS. Apostoli 20, tel. 0669921823, www.time-elevator.it. Zoomarine This amusement and aquatic park outside Rome offers performances with dolphins, parrots and other animals for children of all ages. It is also possible to rent little play carts. Children under 10 must be accompanied by an adult. Via Casablanca 61, Torvaianica, Pomezia, tel. 0691534, www.zoomarine.it.

Wanted in Rome • March 2020 | 15

to do

Mon Tue Wed Thu 3

Be inspired walking through MAXXI’s exhibit On The Spiritual Matter of Art.

Take your kids to Parco Scuola Del Traffico where they can drive mini cars.

See Elliot Erwitt’s powerful photographs at WeGil in Trastevere.

Try a new recipe with the seasonal Romanesco cauliflower from your local market.

Stop by the International Careers Festival, a networking event for brilliant young minds.

Book a table at La Tavernaccia and try its misto affettati of cured meats and cheeses.

Dive into the Spaghetti Western world of director Sergio Leone at the Ara Pacis.

Head to Campo Felice for a fun day of spring skiing and sledding.

ART MUSIC FOOD NATURE CINEMA FAMILY THEATRE

Palazzo Altemps presents an African and electronic music show titled Black Noise 2084.

Celebrate actor Alberto Sordi on his centenary by visiting the exhibition at his former home.

Scholar’s Lounge offers five live bands and rivers of Guinness on St Patrick’s Day.

Visit the church of St Peter in Chains to see Michelangelo’s magnificent Moses.

Celebrate spring with lunch and a walk along the beach at S. Severa.

Don’t miss Ai Wei Wei’s opera debut with Turandot at Teatro dell’Opera di Roma.

The Vatican Museums open for free this morning, from 09.00 until 12.30.

Make a day trip to the Park of Monsters at Bomarzo north of Rome.

19 Celebrate Father’s Day with bigne di S. Giuseppe from pastry shop Nero Vaniglia.

Spend the afternoon touring the street art of Rome’s Quadraro district.

Foto di Mauricio A. da Pixabay

Fri

March Sun 2020

Sat

Take advantage of the free openings at Rome’s state and city museums today.

Go underground at Piazza Navona to visit the ancient Stadium of Domitian.

Admire more than 100 works by Renaissance master Raphael at Scuderie del Quirinale.

Celebrate International Women’s Day by giving mimosa to the woman in your life.

Palazzo Massimo alle Colonne opens to the public just once a year – today.

Catch the Six Nations Rugby match between Italy and England at the Stadio Olimpico.

For a salty and savoury brunch try Il Pranzo Contadino at Proloco Trastevere.

Admire the cherry Be among the first to see blossoms around the the Banksy exhibition at Chiostro del Bramante. lake in the EUR quarter.

27 Celebrate Raphael’s big year by admiring his frescoes at Villa Farnesina.

See British pop idol James Blunt perform at the Palazzo dello Sport.

Enjoy the Baby Sound interactive concert at Auditorium Parco della Musica for ages 0-2.

29 Explore the interactive exhibit dedicated to Frida Kahlo at Spazio Tirso before it closes.

History

A short guide to some of the most important international Cultural Academies in Rome representing countries from around the world in the Eternal city.

Cultural Academies AMERICAN ACADEMY IN ROME The American Academy in Rome works to promote research and independent study in the arts and humanities. Via Angelo Masina 5, tel. 065810788, www.aarome.org.

CASA DI GOETHE Rome’s museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe offers exhibitions and cultural events throughout the year. Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www.casadigoethe.it.

AUSTRIAN CULTURAL FORUM The Austrian Cultural Forum hosts events dedicated to the history and culture of Austria. Viale Bruno Buozzi 113, tel. 063608371, www.austriacult.roma.it.

CENTRE CULTUREL SAINT-LOUIS DE FRANCE The centre offers cultural events such as film screenings, lectures, debates and theatre. Largo Toniolo 20, tel. 066802629, www.ifcsl.com.

BELGIAN ACADEMY The Belgian Academy facilitates scientific and cultural relations between Italy and Belgium by sponsoring researchers and artists in Italy. Via Omero 8, tel. 063201889, www.academiabelgica.it.

CENTRO CULTURAL BRASIL-ITALIA The centre offers courses of Brazilian Portuguese and samba and hosts meetings with writers and filmmakers, conferences on Brazilian literature and screenings of Brazilian movies. Piazza Navona 18, tel. 0668398284, www.roma.itamaraty.gov.br/it/centro_cultural_brasil-italia.xml.

BRITISH COUNCIL The British Council promotes the English language and appreciation in Italy of the UK’s creative ideas and achievements. Via di S. Sebastianello 16, tel. 06478141, www.britishcouncil.it. BRITISH SCHOOL AT ROME The British School at Rome brings scholars, artists, researchers and architects from Britain to create a cultural exchange between Britain and Italy. Via Gramsci 61, tel. 063264939, www.bsr.ac.uk.

18 | March 2020 • Wanted in Rome

DANISH ACADEMY The Danish Academy is an institution that offers support to Danish artists in Rome. Via Omero 18, tel. 063265931, ww.dkinst-rom.dk. DUTCH INSTITUTE The Dutch Institute offers courses for students and researchers and serves as a bridge between Dutch universities and Italy. Via Omero 10, tel. 063269621, www.knir.it.

EGYPTIAN ACADEMY The Egyptian Academy brings Arabian, Egyptian and African culture and art to Italy. Via Omero 4, tel. 063201896, www.accademiaegitto.org. FRENCH ACADEMY The French Academy at Villa Medici hosts artists from France and provides exhibitions and festivals throughout the year. Viale Trinità dei Monti 1, tel. 066761305, www.villamedici.it. GERMAN ACADEMY The German Academy offers German artists, writers, musicians and architects the opportunity to study in Rome. Largo di Villa Massimo 1, tel. 064425931, www.deutsche-kultur-international.de. GERMAN HISTORICAL INSTITUTE This institute conducts research into the history of Germany and Italy, in particular the relations between both countries. Via Aurelia Antica 391, tel. 066604921, www.dhi-roma.it. GOETHE INSTITUT The Goethe Institut promotes education in Italy about German culture, language and history. Via Savoia 15, tel. 068440051, www.goethe.de. HUNGARIAN ACADEMY The Academy of Hungary in Rome hosts concerts, literary events and exhibitions by Hungarian artists and scholars. Via Giulia 1, tel. 066889671, www.roma.balassiintezet.hu.

KOREAN CULTURAL INSTITUTE The Korean Cultural Institute promotes Korean culture in Italy and periodically offers cultural events, concerts, art exhibitions and courses ranging from Korean language to cuisine. Via Nomentana 12, tel. 06441633, www.culturacorea.it. NORWEGIAN INSTITUTE The Norwegian Institute in Rome offers undergraduate and graduate courses in art history, ancient studies and Italian. Viale 30 Aprile 33, tel. 0658391007, www.hf.uio.no. POLISH CULTURAL INSTITUTE Institution dedicated to Polish history and culture as well as the promotion of dialogue between Poland and Italy. Via Vittoria Colonna 1, tel. 0636000723,www.istitutopolacco.it. POLISH ACADEMY OF SCIENCE The Polish Academy is a research centre for the humanities and a scientific exchange between Poland and Italy. Vicolo Doria 2, tel. 066792170, www.accademiapolacca.it. ROMANIAN ACADEMY The Romanian Academy hosts events and promotes cultural relations between Romania and Italy. Piazza Josè di S. Martin 1, tel. 063201594, www.accadromania.it. RUSSIAN INSTITUTE OF CULTURE AND LANGUAGE The Russian Institute provides classes in Russian language and culture. Via Farini 62, tel. 064870137.

INSTITUTO CERVANTES Instituto Cervantes is a cultural institution created to promote the teaching of Spanish language and culture. Via di Villa Albani 16, tel. 068551949, www.cervantes.es.

SPANISH ACADEMY The Spanish Academy hosts artists in many fields of study and holds events that provide a cultural bridge between Spain and Italy. Piazza S. Pietro in Montorio 3, tel. 065818607, www.raer.it.

ITALIAN INSTITUTE FOR LATIN AMERICA The Italo-Latin American Institute facilitates research into the cultural, scientific, economic and social aspects of Italy and Latin American countries. Via Giovanni Paisiello 24, tel. 06684921, www.iila.org.

SWEDISH INSTITUTE OF CLASSICAL STUDIES The Swedish Institute is a research centre dedicated to scientific research in art and archaeology. Via Omero 14, tel. 063201596, www.isvroma.it.

JAPANESE CULTURAL INSTITUTE The Japanese Cultural Institute hosts hosts regular cultural events and also offers courses in Japanese. Via Gramsci 74, tel. 063224754, www.jfroma.it. KEATS-SHELLEY MEMORIAL HOUSE Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235,www.keats-shelley-house.it.

SWISS INSTITUTE The Swiss Institute offers exhibitions, events and classes dedicated to the culture of Switzerland. Via Ludovisi 48, tel. 064814234, www.istitutosvizzero.it.

ROME'S MAJOR

MUSEUMS VATICAN MUSEUMS Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums

Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

STATE MUSEUMS Baths of Diocletian

Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Borghese Museum

Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

22 | March 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Crypta Balbi

Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's modern art collection. Mon closed.

MAXXI

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

MA in ART HISTORY in ROME

PRIVATE MUSEUMS Casa di Goethe

CITY MUSEUMS

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Centrale Montemartini

Chiostro Del Bramante

Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.

Capitoline Museums

Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun.

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.

A 15-MONTH AMERICAN Galleria Colonna GRADUATE DEGREE PROGRAM IN THE ETERNAL CITY

Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed. Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space until the end of 2019. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.

MATTATOIO

Giorgio de Chirico House Museum

MACRO Asilo

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking.

Keats-Shelley House

Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking.

Museo storico della Liberazione

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it. Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from 1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.

Museo Canonica

MUSJA

Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).

Museo Napoleonico

Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.

Privately owned museum dedicated to modern and contemporary Italian and international art. Via dei Chiavari 7, tel. 0668210213, www.musja.it.

Palazzo Merulana

Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it. Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection, including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation. 09.00-20.00. Tues closed.

www.johncabot.edu/arthistoryma Wanted in Rome • March 2020 | 23 graduateadmissions@johncabot.edu

ROME'S MAJOR

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums

Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

STATE MUSEUMS Baths of Diocletian

Borghese Museum

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

24 | March 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Crypta Balbi

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

MAXXI

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS Casa di Goethe

CITY MUSEUMS

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Centrale Montemartini

Chiostro Del Bramante

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Galleria Colonna

Capitoline Museums

Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

MACRO Asilo

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space until the end of 2019. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.

MATTATOIO

Giorgio de Chirico House Museum

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Keats-Shelley House

Museo storico della Liberazione

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Museo Canonica

MUSJA

Museo Napoleonico

Privately owned museum dedicated to modern and contemporary Italian and international art. Via dei Chiavari 7, tel. 0668210213, www.musja.it.

Palazzo Merulana

Wanted in Rome • March 2020 | 25

ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY

ART GALLERIES

1/9 Unosunove

1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.

A.A.M. Architettura

Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ff-maam.it.

Contemporary Cluster

Visual art, design, architecture, fashion design and beauty apothecary in a 17th-century palace. Via dei Barbieri 7, tel. 0668805928, www.contemporarycluster.com.

C.R.E.T.A.

Cultural association promoting ceramics and the visual, humanistic, musical and culinary arts through workshops, exhibitions and artist residencies. Palazzo Delfini, Via dei Delfini 17, tel. 0689827701, www.cretarome.com.

Dorothy Circus Gallery

Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.

Ex Elettrofonica

This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.

Fondazione Memmo

Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.

Fondazione Pastificio Cerere

This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pastificiocerere.com.

Fondazione Volume!

The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.

26 | March 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Franz Paludetto

Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.

Frutta

This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via dei Salumi 53 tel. 0645508934, www.fruttagallery.com.

Gagosian Gallery

The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

GALLA

Exhibition space designed to showcase original, unconventional art works at affordable prices by artists working in various fields. Via degli Zingari 28, tel. 3476552515, www.facebook.com/GALLAmonti.

Galleria Alessandro Bonomo

Gallery showing the works of important Italian and international visual artists. Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858, www.bonomogallery.com.

Galleria Valentina Bonomo

Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works specifically for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte

Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Galleria della Tartaruga

Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.

Galleria Il Segno

Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.

Galleria Mucciaccia

Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.

Galleria Russo

Operativa Arte Contemporanea

A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.

Pian de Giullari

This historic gallery holds group and solo exhibitions showcasing the work of major 20th-century Italian painters alongside promising new Italian artists. Via Alibert 20, tel. 066789949, www.galleriarusso.it.

Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.

Galleria Varsi

Plus Arte Puls

A dynamic gallery near Campo deâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di Grotta Pinta 38, tel. 066865415, www.galleriavarsi.it.

Gavin Brown's Enterprise

New York gallerist Gavin Brown shows the work of international artists at his Trastevere gallery in a deconsecrated church dating to the eighth century. S. Andrea de Scaphis, Via dei Vascellari 69, www.gavinbrown.biz.

Il Ponte Contemporanea

Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls.com.

RvB ARTS

Rome-based gallery specialising in affordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www.rvbarts.com.

Sala 1

Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via Giuseppe Acerbi 31A, tel. 0653098768, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.

This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.

La Nuova Pesa

S.T. Foto libreria galleria

Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.

Magazzino dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Arte Moderna

Contemporary art gallery that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.

Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri

The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.

T293

Monitor

The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it.

Nero Gallery

The Gallery Apart

Space dedicated to showcasing young international artists working in pop surrealism, lowbrow art, dark art, comic art and surrealism. Via Castruccio Castracane 9, tel. 0627801418, www.nerogallery.com.

This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.

Nomas Foundation

TraleVolte

This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, tel. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.

Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.

Contemporary art gallery focusing on the relationship between art and architecture, hosting solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org.

White Noise Gallery

Based in the S. Lorenzo district, this gallery exhibits unconventional work by young Italian and international artists. Via della Seggiola 9, tel. 066832833, www.whitenoisegallery.it.

Wunderkammern

This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www.wunderkammern.net.

Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin

Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria offers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it. Wanted in Rome â&#x20AC;˘ March 2020 | 27

Join us on Your Journey

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Via di Villa Lauchli 180 00191 Rome, Italy +39 06 362 91012 www.marymountrome.com admissions@marymountrome.com

where to go in Rome WHAT’S ON

Raphael exhibition at Scuderie del Quirinale. La donna velata. See page 33.

Wanted in Rome • March 2020 | 29

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EXHIBITIONS

EXHIBITIONS BANSKY: A VISUAL PROTEST 21 March-26 July

Banksy, the anonymous British street artist, is the subject of a major exhibition at Chiostro del Bramante. The show features around 80 works by Banksy – known for his powerful, satirical and thought-provoking murals – touching on themes close to the artist’s heart: war, wealth, poverty, animals, globalisation, consumerism, politics, power and the environment. The exhibited works, created between 2001 and 2017, include well known images such as Love is in the Air, Girl with Balloon, Queen Vic, Napalm,

Toxic Mary, HMV, as well as the designs for the book Wall & Piece and projects for vinyl and CD covers. The exhibition will offer an insight into the underground world of Banksy, documenting the techniques used in his works as well as his hard-hitting themes. Visitors will also have the chance to admire, from a window of the first floor of the Chiostro, Raphael’s fresco Sibille e Angeli, commissioned in 1515 as part of the decoration of the adjoining Basilica di S. Maria della Pace. Chiostro del Bramante, Via Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Banksy exhibition at Chiostro del Bramante. CND Soldiers, 2005. Screenprint on paper. Courtesy artist.

DE PISIS

20 March-20 June

Palazzo Altemps – Museo Nazionale Romano presents a retrospective dedicated to Italian artist and poet Filippo de Pisis (1896-1956). The exhibition of 40 works on paper and watercolours highlights the sensitive, delicate style of de Pisis who is best known for his cityscapes, metaphysicallyinspired maritime scenes and still lifes. Later in life the extravagant de Pisis lived in Venice where he was ferried around in his personal gondola. Palazzo Altemps, Piazza di S. Apollinare 46, tel. 06684851, www.museonazionaleromano. beniculturali.it.

ANITA GUERRA: TRES PATRIAS 17 March-1 April

Tres Patrias, a new exhibition by Anita Guerra, will be held at Temple Gallery at Temple University in Rome. The exhibition features Guerra’s drawings, paintings, prints, photographs and embroideries, all of which she has created for her illustrated family memoir. The body of work is described as “a visual kaleidoscope of her journey from an idyllic childhood in Havana to an orphanage in Philadelphia, on to a life as an artist and professor in Rome.” The exhibition also features a film she produced about her modernist architect father, Juan Ignacio Guerra. The show opens on 17 March from 19.00 until 21.00. Temple University in Rome, Lungotevere Arnaldo da Brescia 15, www.anitaguerra.com.

ALBERTO SORDI 1920-2020 7 March-29 June

Rome hosts an exhibition dedicated to the life and career of the muchloved Roman actor Alberto Sordi (1920-2003) at his former residence near the Baths of Caracalla. The multimedia show takes place in various rooms of Sordi’s private villa, which has never been open to the public before. The exhibition also highlights the private side to Sordi who is best remembered for his roles in films such as Un americano a Wanted in Rome • March 2020 | 31

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Roma, Il Marchese del Grillo, Il Vigile and I Vitelloni. In addition to being an actor, Sordi was a singer, voice actor, director and screenwriter. During his 60-year career, he played mainly comic roles, enlivened by his trademark Roman accent. When Sordi died in 2003, there was a massive outpouring of grief in his native city, with more than 250,000 people attending his funeral in S. Giovanni. Rome subsequently renamed the prestigious Galleria Colonna, on Via del Corso, in honour of one of its favourite sons. Mon-Thurs 10.00-20.00. Fri-Sat 10.00-22.00, Sun 10.00-20.00. Villa Sordi, Piazzale Numa Pompilio. For visiting times see city culture website, www.060608.it.

RAPHAEL

5 March-2 June

An “unprecedented” exhibition dedicated to Raffaello Sanzio da Urbino, better known as Raphael, is hosted at Rome’s Scuderie del Quirinale on the 500th anniversary of the death of the High Renaissance artist and architect. There will be several major Raphael exhibitions around the world this year but the most important of these is in Rome, the city in which the artist spent the last decade of his life. The blockbuster show features more than 200 masterpieces – never before gathered in the same place – including paintings and sketches as well as comparison works. About 100 of the works are by Raphael himself, with 40 paintings arriving on loan from the Uffizi in Florence and others coming from the Louvre in Paris, London’s National Gallery and the Prado in Madrid. The exhibition includes the Madonna del Granduca and Woman with a Veil from the Uffizi; the Portrait of Baldassarre Castiglione and SelfPortrait with Friend from the Louvre and the Madonna of the Rose from the Prado. Scuderie del Quirinale, Via XXIV Maggio 16, tel. 0292897722, www.scuderiequirinale.it.

ELLIOTT ERWITT: ICONS 22 Feb-17 May

Around 70 of the best known images by Elliott Erwitt, one of the world’s

Filippo de Pisis at Palazzo Altemps. Filippo de Pisis, Ritratto del pittore Rocchi, 1931, Milano Museo del Novecento. Credits: Mondadori Portfolio / Electa, Luca Carrà – Museo del Novecento © Filippo de Pisis by SIAE 2019.

great masters of contemporary photography, are on display at WeGil, the cultural hub of the Lazio Region in the Trastevere quarter of Rome. Erwitt has captured some of the most important moments in 20thcentury history, from the meeting between Nixon and Khrushchev to the image of Jackie Kennedy at her husband’s funeral. Among the photographs on display in Rome are portraits of Che Guevara, Marlene Dietrich and Marilyn Monroe. The exhibition also includes images which illustrate a more intimate side to the photographer, with a nod to his love of the surreal and romantic, including the celebrated California Kiss, self-portraits and photographs of his first-born baby girl. Son of Russian emigrants, Erwitt was born in Paris in 1928 but spent his childhood in Milan. In 1938 Erwitt and his family immigrated to the US, where he developed his interest for photography, becoming part of the Magnum photographic agency in 1953. Daily 10.00-19.00. WeGil, Largo Ascianghi 5, Trastevere, www.wegil.it.

REMBRANDT AT GALLERIA CORSINI 20 Feb-15 June

Galleria Corsini showcases Rembrandt’s Self Portrait as St Paul, in an historic return for the masterpiece which has not been seen in Rome for more than two centuries. The painting, on loan from the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam, originally belonged to the noble Corsini family but was sold to art dealers – apparently without the knowledge of Prince Tomasso Corsini – during the French occupation of 1799. The exhibition also includes a selection of engravings by Rembrandt from the Corsini collection. Galleria Corsini, Via della Lungara 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini. org.

PIETRO RUFFO: MAREMOTO 20 Feb-17 April

Developing his reflections on contemporary geopolitics, Rome artist Pietro Ruffo has worked on three vast wall-installations in ceramic tiles dedicated to the theme of water in Wanted in Rome • March 2020 | 33

contemporary society, and on a new body of work inspired by ancient star charts. The three ceramic murals painted by Ruffo take as a model the traditional Portuguese and Spanish tilework of azulejos. Their visual narrative starts with characters evoking the recent migrant crisis in the Mediterranean Sea and ends with a group of teenagers from the Youth for Climate Movement initiated by environmental activist Greta Thunberg. Galleria Lorcan O’Neill, Vicolo dei Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

JIM DINE

11 Feb-2 June

Palazzo delle Esposizioni pays tribute to Jim Dine, the celebrated American exponent of Pop Art and the Neo-Dada movement, with an exhibition of around 80 works created between 1959 and 2016. The show also includes the works donated to the Centre George Pompidou by Dine who was elected as an academician by Rome’s Accademia Nazionale di S. Luca in 2018. See interview page 4 and cover of this edition. Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Via Nazionale 194, tel. 06696271, www.palazzoesposizioni.it.

FELLINIANA: FERRETTI DREAMS FELLINI 5 Feb

As the world celebrates the centenary of the birth of Federico

Anita Guerra exhibition at Temple University of Rome.

Fellini, his beloved Cinecittà film studios pay homage to the Italian movie director. The exhibitioninstallation has been created by Dante Ferretti, the Oscar-winning production designer described as “one of the magical architects of Fellini’s visions.” The show, on permanent display in Palazzina

Fellini, offers insights into the world of Fellini, exploring the maestro’s rich imagination and how he translated dream and fantasy into his films. The exhibition features film sequences, special-effect props, costumes and film sets from Fellini’s movies. The show is open daily, except Tuesdays, from 09.30-18.30, with the ticket office closing at 16.30. Cinecittà, Via Tuscolana 1055, tel. 0672293269, www.cinecittasimostra.it.

ARA GÜLER

30 Jan-3 May

Rome celebrates Alberto Sordi with an exhibition at the actor's former home.

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The Museo di Roma in Trastevere dedicates an exhibition to Ara Güler (1928-2018) ranked one of the seven best photographers in the world by the British Journal of Photography Yearbook. The exhibition is composed largely of photographs of Istanbul taken by Güler since the 1950s, the decade in which he was recruited by Henri Cartier-Bresson for the Magnum Agency, becoming

I LOVE LEGO

24 Dec-19 April

Palazzo Bonaparte, Rome’s new exhibition venue in Piazza Venezia, presents an “exhibition for children of all ages.” The colourful show features minutely-reproduced scenes, covering dozens of square metres, made using the most famous bricks in the world. Palazzo Bonaparte, Piazza Venezia 5, www. mostrepalazzobonaparte.it.

CIVIS CIVITAS CIVILTAS Raphael at Scuderie del Quirinale. La donna velata or The woman with the veil.

correspondent for the Near East. A lucid observer of Turkish history and society, the Armenian photographer bequeathed an archive of over two million photos, some of which can be seen in Rome. In addition to the 45 black and white views of Istanbul, there are also 37 portraits of well-known cultural, political and religious figures including Federico Fellini, Sophia Loren, Pope Paul VI and Winston Churchill. Museo di Roma in Trastevere, Piazza S. Egidio 1/b, tel. 060608, www. museodiromaintrastevere.it.

GABRIELE BASILICO: METROPOLI 25 Jan-13 April

Devoted to a master in the field of Italian and international photography, an exhibition at MAXXI focuses on the theme of the city, showcasing approximately 270 photographs ranging from the 1960s to the 2000s. Man-made landscapes and the constantly evolving nature of cities were central themes in the work of Basilico who died in his native Milan in 2013. In addition to Italian cities, the exhibition shows images taken by Basilico in cities around the world, including Beirut, Buenos Aires, Jerusalem, Tel Aviv, Istanbul, Rio de Janeiro, Moscow, New York and Shanghai. MAXXI Via Guido Reni 4A, www. maxxi.art.

21 Dec-6 Sept

Plaster models document the buildings of ancient Rome in an exhibition that explores the “relationship between city, citizenship and civilization in the Roman world.” Over 60 models were built mainly by Italo Gismondi for the 1937 Augustan Exhibition of Romanity. Mercati di Traiano, Via 4 Novembre, www.mercatiditraiano.it.

EL GRECO

14 Dec-15 March

A painting by El Greco, portraying Rome’s patron saints Peter and Paul, comes to Italy for the first time thanks to Fondazione Aldi Fendi Esperimenti. The painting by the Spanish master, on loan from the Hermitage in St Petersburg, is on display for free as part of a threeyear agreement with the Russian museum. Dating from between 1587 and 1592, the painting is one of several versions of the theme by the artist, with others held in collections

in Barcelona and Stockholm. The arrival of the El Greco masterpiece in Rome follows the display of Michelangelo’s Crouching Boy in 2018 which saw Palazzo Rhinoceros welcome 22,000 visitors. Palazzo Rhinoceros, Via del Velabro 9, www. fondazionealdafendi-esperimenti.it.

C’ERA UNA VOLTA SERGIO LEONE 17 Dec-3 May

Rome pays tribute to the celebrated Italian film director, producer and screenwriter Sergio Leone (19291989) with an exhibition at the Ara Pacis museum. Known primarily for popularising the Spaghetti Western genre with films such as The Good, The Bad and The Ugly and Once Upon a Time in the West, Leone is also credited with influencing a new generation of directors, notably Quentin Tarantino. Organised by the Cineteca di Bologna, produced and curated in collaboration with the Cinémathèque Française and the Istituto Luce Cinecittà, the multisensory exhibition offers insights into Leone’s cult films as well as his personal and professional life. Museo dell’Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta, tel. 060608, www.arapacis. it.

GIO PONTI: LOVING ARCHITECTURE 27 Nov-13 April

MAXXI celebrates the career of Gio Ponti (1891-1979), the acclaimed Italian architect, industrial designer, art director, writer, critic and artist,

Elliott Erwitt at WeGil. California Kiss.

Wanted in Rome • March 2020 | 35

with a major retrospective 40 years after his death. A focal point of the exhibition is Ponti’s versatility in relation to his designs, from everyday household objects to the realisation of complex architectural projects such as the Pirelli skyscraper in Milan and the cathedral in Taranto. The exhibition presents archive materials, models, photographs, books, magazine and objects providing insights into a remarkable Italian architect whose legacy can be seen in important buildings around the world. MAXXI, Via Guido Reni 4A, www.maxxi.art.

CANOVA: ETERNA BELLEZZA

9 Oct-15 March Palazzo Braschi stages an exhibition of works by Italian neoclassical sculptor Antonio Canova (1757-1822), regarded by many as the greatest of the neoclassical artists. Canova is best known for his magnificent marble sculptures such as Amore e Psiche, Tre Grazie and Paolina Borghese. The exhibition includes more than 170 works by Canova and his contemporaries. Piazza Navona 2, tel. 060608, www.museodiroma.it. See other exhibitions on our website www.wantedinrome.com.

Ara Güler at Museo di Roma in Trastevere. Federico Fellini.

Gabriele Basilico at Palazzo delle Esposizioni. Shanghai, 2010. © Archivio Gabriele Basilico.

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CLASSICAL ROME ACCADEMIA FILARMONICA ROMANA ALLA RICERCA DI ORFEO 5 March

The Astree Ensemble from Turin, which specialises in 17th- and 18thcentury music, explores passages dedicated to Orpheus from classical literature to the present, with the voice of Laura Torelli reciting poetry from Ovid to Carol Ann Duffy, and with the ensemble performing music from Monteverdi to Berio. Teatro Argentina, Largo Argentina, www.filarmonicaromana.org.

LEZIONI DI MUSICA BEETHOVEN E IL ROMANTICISM 8 March

In the second of the series in Lezioni di Musica, which is open to the public and broadcast on RAI Radio 3, Giovanni Bietti and the Trio Metamorphosi explore the connection between Beethoven and the Romantic composers, from Schubert to Chopin. Sala Casella, Via Flaminia 118, www. filarmonicaromana.org.

GABRIELE DURANTI 14 March

Pianist Gabriele Duranti plays music by Beethoven, Schubert and Stravinsky in the Accademia Filarmonica series to promote young musicians, in collaboration with the Società Humanitaria di Milano. Sala Casella, Via Flaminia 118, www.filarmonicaromana.org.

MIMATI

20 March

Musica e Letteratura, dal primo suono alla parola. This event traces the development of human communication from the first sounds, through mime and myth, to literature and music, all the

Nikolai Lugansky gives a piano recital at S. Cecilia on 18 March.

sounds that we use to communicate our emotions, myths and creativity. Sala Casella, Via Flaminia 118, www.filarmonicaromana.org.

ACCADEMIA S. CECILIA

QUARTETTO HAGEN

5-7 March

26 March

The Quartetto Hagen concludes the cycle dedicated to Beethoven’s string quartets. The Austrian quartet will perform opus 135 from Beethoven’s later period, composed not long before he died in 1827; opus 95 from his middle period, which was published in 1816 and which he himself gave the name “serioso”; and the very complex opus 131. Schumann described its relentless seven movements as having “a grandeur which no words can express.” The work was used in the 2012 film A Late Quartet, about the disintegration of a string quartet after its cellist Peter Mitchell announced that he had Parkinson’s disease. Teatro Argentina, Largo Argentina, www.filarmonicaromana.org.

CHOPIN E...BACH 29 March

The last of the concerts which explored the music of Chopin and those who inspired his work, this time Bach. Pianist Andrea Napoleoni performs two polonaise by Chopin and two works by Bach. In collaboration with the Accademia S. Cecilia. Teatro Argentina, Largo Argentina, www. filarmonicaromana.org.

MENDELSSOHN’S ITALIAN SYMPHONY With the orchestra and chorus of S. Cecilia, conducted by Antonello Manacorda with Francesco Piemontesi piano. The programme includes three work by Mendelssohn and one by Schubert, the Fantasia in C major, which the composer wrote in 1822 in a break from the Unfinished symphony. It was later transcribed by Liszt for piano and orchestra and Liszt also rearranged the final movement. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

MAHLER’S 3rd SYMPHONY 12-14 March

Myung-Whun Chung conducts Mahler’s 3rd symphony, with Sasha Cooke contralto. It is Mahler’s longest symphony and was written for a large orchestra. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www. auditorium.com.

NIKOLAI LUGANSKY 18 March

The Russian pianist plays two Beethoven sonatas and two preludes by Franck. Sala Sinopoli, Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www. auditorium.com. Wanted in Rome • March 2020 | 37

FRANCESCO LIBETTA 19-21 March

Italian pianist, composer and conductor Francesco Libetta plays Mozart’s piano concerto 23, as well as music by Beethoven and Dvorak, with the S. Cecilia orchestra conducted by Tomas Netopil. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin, www.auditorium.com.

LEONIDAS KAVAKOS ENRICO PACE 25 March

Violist Leonidas Kavakos, who often performs at S. Cecilia, and Enrico Pace piano, play three Beethoven sonatas. Sala Sinopoli, Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

MISSA GLAGOLITICA 26-28 March

The Missa Glagolitica composed in 1926 by Janacek is conducted by Jakub Hrusa with the orchestra and chorus of S. Cecilia, and soprano, contralto, tenor and bass soloists. The Glagolitica mass is also called the Slavonic mass (Glagolitica was an early Slavic pre-Cyrillic alphabet devised by Sts Cyril and Metodius for translating the Bible). Janacek was a supporter of pan-Slavism throughout the Balkans. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

GRIGORY SOKOLOV 30 March

Grigory Sokolov, one of the world’s most versatile but also outspoken pianists, returns in recital to S. Cecilia, performing music by Mozart and Schumann. Sokolov, who lives in Italy, now prefers to perform recitals only, rather than performing with an orchestra which, he feels, holds back his development. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

ISTITUZIONE UNIVERSITARIO DEI CONCERTI JONATHAN BISS 3 March

In his Rome debut American pianist

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Gabriele Duranti is one of the new generations of Italian pianists performing at the Accademia Filarmonica.

Jonathan Biss plays three Beethoven sonatas. Biss is co-director with Mitsuko Uchida of the Marlboro Music Festival. Aula Magna, Università La Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it.

Cavalieri ensemble which performs 18th-century music on period instruments. Aula Magna, Università La Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it.

MONTROSE TRIO

28 March

14 March

The Montrose Trio was formed in 2014 by two members of old Tokyo String Quartet who decided when it dissolved in 2013 to continue their relationship with the Vancouver-born pianist Jon Kimura Parker. They will perform music by Schubert and Beethoven. Aula Magna, Università La Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it.

QUARTETTO DI CREMONA 17 March

In this concert the Cremona Quartet explores more of Mozart’s string quartets. Aula Magna, Università La Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it.

VIVICA GENAUX 21 March

Vivica Genaux mezzo-soprano, performs with the Concerto de

BENEDETTO LUPO Pianist Bendetto Lupo gives a recital of music by Janacek, Rota and Scriabin. Aula Magna, Università La Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it.

OTHER VENUES IN ROME

The Oratorio Gonfalone has concerts every Thursday evening in the beautiful church on Via del Gonfalone 32 A, just off Via Giulia. www.oratoriogonfalone.eu. Some of Rome’s English-speaking churches, such as St Paul’s within the Walls, All Saints’ Anglican church, Ponte S. Angelo Methodist church and the Oratorio Caravita also have concerts and opera recitals. S. Agnese in Agone in Piazza Navona and Palazzo Doria Pamphilj are two other places that often offer concerts and opera recitals. See www.romaoperaomnia.com.

ROCK, POP, JAZz symphonic rock group performs at Auditorium Conciliazione on 29 April. Yes has sold millions of albums since forming in London in 1968 and is best known for songs such as Close to the Edge, I’ve Seen All Good People and Owner of a Lonely Heart. For tickets see TicketOne website. Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4, www. auditoriumconciliazione.it.

SUMMER CONCERTS Tickets are on sale for a summer concert by Yusuf / Cat Stevens at the Baths of Caracalla.

JAMES BLUNT 28 March

English singer-songwriter James Blunt returns to Rome with a concert at the Palazzetto dello Sport. Blunt is best known for his massive hit You’re Beautiful from his debut album Back to Bedlam which sold 11

million copies worldwide. For tickets see TicketOne website. Palazzo dello Sport, Piazzale dello Sport, www. palazzodellosportroma.it.

YES

29 April

This veteran British progressive and

Several acts have been announced already for Rome’s summer festivals, with tickets on sale now. The concerts include US alternative band The Pixies (8 July) and English singer-songwriter Paul Weller (24 July) for the Roma Summer Fest at the Auditorium Parco della Musica, while the lineup of the Teatro dell’Opera summer programme at the Baths of Caracalla includes concerts by Andrea Bocelli (21 June) and Yusuf / Cat Stevens on the 50th anniversary of his hit album Tea for the Tillerman (20 July).

DANCE MILAN TEATRO ALLA SCALA MADINA

22 March-16 April

This is the world premiere of Madina, a new work by Fabio Vacchi with choreography by Mauro Bigonzetti on a libretto by Emmanuelle de Villepin, based on her novel La ragazza che non voleva morire. The story is about a Chechen suicide bomber, Madina, who is forced into becoming a terrorist but decides not to kill. It is a complete work, rather than a study, of dance, theatre, music and the spoken word.

Sonics performs its work DUUM at the Teatro Olimpico on 31 March.

Wanted in Rome • March 2020 | 39

La Scala hopes to present one new contemporary work each season. Roberto Bolle dances on 22, 24 March and 1, 2, 16 April. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.

ROME TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA IL CORSARO 1-8 March

This new version of Il Corsaro, is choreographed by Jose Carlos Martinez, who returns to the original, taking out many of the additions that have been made since the ballet was first danced in 1856, reducing it to two rather than the usual three acts. Martinez, previously at the Paris Opera as dancer and choreograher, is now the artistic director of the Spanish National Ballet. Teatro

dell’Opera di Roma, Teatro Costanzi, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www. operaroma.it.

Olimpico. Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabbriano 17, www. filarmonicaromana.org.

TEATRO OLIMPICO

SONICS - DUUM

SHINE - PINK FLOYD MOON

What happens when humans are forced to hide in the centre of the earth to escape the destruction they have made on the surface? Architetto Serafino leads a courageous group trying to make the DUUM or the climb back to the surface of the earth in search of all its lost beauty. The acrobats of SONICS, who often perform in the open, have been touring theatres in north Italy now come to Rome with their latest work DUUM as part of the Giornate della Danza di Roma. Sonics which was formed in 2001, is a team of gymnasts, dancers and athletes and has a repertoire of five works, Osa, Flight, Flow, Meraviglia and now DUUM. Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.teatroolimpico.it.

3-8 March

Choreography by Micha van Hoecke inspired by the Pink Floyd song Shine On you Crazy Diamond, which was dedicated to the ousted founder of the group, Syd Barrett. It was created for and is danced by the Compagnia Daniele Cipriani. The lighting and videos transform the performance into a lunar landscape. The Belgian choreographer has often worked with Riccardo Muti and the piece premiered at the Ravenna festival last year before touring many summer festivals in Italy. Part of the Giornate della Danza di Roma, organised by the Accademia Filarmonica Romana and Teatro

festival

31 March

Irish Film Festa screens the Italian premiere of A Bump Along the Way, with lead actress Bronagh Gallagher as special guest.

LIBRI COME

12-15 March

The 11th edition of Libri Come, Rome’s annual festival devoted to books and reading, takes place at the Auditorium Parco Della Musica under the title Coraggio. The 2020 festival examines the role of “courage” in modern writing, with conferences, interviews, lectures, workshops and readings by Italian and international writers. The line-up was unavailable at the time of going to press but full details can be found on the Auditorium website. Auditorium Parco Della Musica, Viale Pietro De Coubertin 30, tel. 0680241281, www. auditorium.com.

ROMA WHISKY FESTIVAL 14-15 March

This two-day event showcases 2,000 labels of whisky, from well-known to rare, and includes tastings and masterclasses by industry experts.

40 | March 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Now in its ninth year, the festival takes place at the Salone delle Fontane in the EUR district. For details see website, www.romawhiskyfestival.it.

IRISH FILM FESTA 25-29 March

The 13th edition of IRISH FILM FESTA, the Rome festival dedicated to Irish cinema, returns to the Casa del Cinema in Villa Borghese from 25-29 March. In addition to a programme of films including Northern Irish hit comedy A Bump Along the Way, with lead actress Bronagh Gallagher attending the screening, the festival includes many guests from the world of Irish cinema who give public

interviews and masterclasses, and a short film competition with a special category for animation. This year the festival will also pay homage to the city of Galway, European Capital of Culture 2020. Created and directed by Susanna Pellis, IRISH FILM FESTA is organised in collaboration with the Irish Film Institute with the patronage of the embassy of Ireland in Italy. All films are screened in their original language versions with Italian subtitles. Entry is free. At the time of going to print the full programme was not available, for details see website www.irishfilmfesta.org. Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1 (Villa Borghese), tel. 06423601.

A FOOTBALL GAME UNLIKE ANY OTHER GET YOUR

TICKETS ON YOUR

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Beverly Pepper died in Umbria on 5 February.

ART NEWS BEVERLY PEPPER DIES IN TODI

The international art world mourns Beverly Pepper, the American sculptor who died aged 97 at her home in the Umbrian city of Todi. Pepper was known for her monumental works, site-specific and Land art, but she remained independent from any particular art movement. The New York artist, whose work was fashioned from CorTen steel - a metal which acquires a sepia patina over time - moved to Italy in the 1950s. Hailing her as a "Sculptor of Monumental Lightness", The New York Times described her work as being "suffused with a quicksilver lightness that belied its gargantuan scale." The artist will be buried in the village of Torregentile where her studio-house is located - a mediaeval castle called Beverly's Hills. Pepper died six months after Todi inaugurated a sculpture park, in her name, featuring the artist's monumental steel sculptures.

RETURN OF DOMENICA AL MUSEO

Italy's free museum Sunday, known as Domenica al Museo, will once again be held on the first Sunday of each month, all year round, offering free entry to state museums and archaeological sites. The news was announced by Italy's culture minister Dario Franceschini, of the centre-left Partito Democratico (PD), who has reversed the changes made by his predecessor Alberto Bonisoli of the populist Movimento 5 Stelle. Bonisoli, whose initial intention was to scrap Domenica al Museo entirely, moved the initiative to the off-season from October to March, giving Italian museums and archaeological sites a package of free days to choose at their discretion during the year. However this system resulted in the first annual drop in visitor numbers since Domenica al Museo was introduced

42 | March 2020 • Wanted in Rome

in 2014 – according to Franceschini – convincing the minister to revert to the original streamlined approach of 12 monthly installments. Domenica al Museo has attracted around 17 million visitors since 2014.

ROME CITY MUSEUMS FREE ONCE A MONTH

Rome's municipal museums, including the Capitoline Museums, are now free to all visitors, including tourists, on the first Sunday of each month, coinciding with Domenica al Museo. This initiative was once exclusive to residents of the capital but has now been extended.

ROME RESTORES ALBERTONI CHAPEL

Rome has restored the Albertoni Chapel, including the celebrated sculpture of Blessed Ludovica Albertoni by Baroque master Bernini, at the church of S. Francesco a Ripa in Trastevere. The restoration and cleaning of the chapel and Bernini's marble sculpture was carried out over the last six months by the Rome superintendency in collaboration with the Fondo Edifici di Culto, or Religious Buildings Fund. Bernini's funerary monument, which depicts the figure of Ludovica Albertoni in ecstasy, or mystical communion with God, was begun in 1671 and completed in 1674 when the artist was 75 years old. The statue, one of Bernini's last, is remarkable for its lifelike expression and contorted limbs as well as the deeply crumpled drapes. Ludovica Albertoni (1473-1533) was a Roman noblewoman who entered the Third Order of St Francis following the death of her husband. She lived a pious life, dedicating herself to the poor of Trastevere, and she was beatified by Pope Clement X in 1671. Andy Devane

opera MILAN IL TURCO IN ITALIA BY ROSSINI 22 Feb-19 March

The new La Scala production of Rossini’s comic opera is conducted by Diego Fasolis and directed by Roberto Andò. Inevitably this production will be compared with the ZeffirelliMaria Callas version at La Scala in the 1950s. Andò is a cinema director (he worked with Francis Ford Coppola, Fellini, Francesco Rosi), as well as a playwright and author, and Fasolis will be conducting his first Rossini opera at La Scala. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.

SALOME BY RICHARD STRAUSS 8-31 March

Conducted by Riccardo Chailly this is a new La Scala production directed by Damiano Michieletto. The role of Salome, which is crucial to this opera, is sung by Swedish soprano Malin Bystrom. She debuted in the role in Amsterdam in 2018 and then received glowing reviews from her subsequent performance at Covent Garden, with the tenor Michele Volle. He will also be in the role Jochanaan (John

The Rome opera house presents Turandot directed by Ai Weiwei.

the Baptist) at La Scala. At Covent Garden the opera was staged in a revised and violent David McVicar production, so it will be interesting to see the interpretation of Italian theatre and cinema director Michieletto. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

ROME

PELLEAS ET MELISANDE BY DEBUSSY

This will be Ai Weiwei’s first experience at directing opera and his debut in Rome. He will also be designing the sets and the costumes. Turandot, which is set in China, has been close to Weiwei’s heart since he and his half-brother appeared as extras in Zeffirelli’s version of the opera at the Met Opera in 1987. Weiwei said that his version will be an opera with clear cultural and political references to the contemporary world, referring to Hong Kong in particular. To have managed to sign Weiwei to direct one of its operas is clearly another big plus for the Rome opera house, following on from its engagement of the South African William Kentridge. Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it.

4-24 April

This new La Scala production is conducted by Daniele Gatti. It is directed by Mattias Hartmann from Vienna’s Burgtheater, directed Mozart’s Idomeneo at La Scala last year. Patricia Petibon sings Melisande and Bernard Richter Pelleas. This is the only opera that Debussy completed and its five acts were premiered in Paris in 1902. Debussy had difficulty finding a venue to stage such an innovative opera but it was finally accepted by the Opera-Comique in 1898. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

Theatre EXTRATEATRO: THEATRE FOR KIDS 5-21 March

ExtraTeatro, a Rome theatre company that produces shows in English for kids, presents two family-friendly productions in March at Teatro Belli in Trastevere. The first show, My Name is Anne, is aimed at children aged upwards of 11 and is staged on 5 and 11 March at 20.00, and

44 | March 2020 • Wanted in Rome

ExtraTeatro presents My Monster Friend.

TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA TURANDOT BY PUCCINI

25 March-5 April

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on 7 March at 16.30. The musical based on the life of Anne Frank, the Jewish teenager who went into hiding during the Nazi occupation of the Netherlands in 1942, is described as a “timeless and universal story of an amazing girl against a world of injustice and hypocrisy.” The second production, My Monster Friend, is a bilingual musical comedy aimed at children from the age of five upwards, staged on 14 and 21 March at 16.30. Lonely Doctor Science-stein creates a friend with a brain he ordered online. Billed as a “wonderfully energetic, hilarious reimagining of Frankenstein” the show promises laugh-out loud comedy “whether you speak English or Italian or both.” Tickets can be bought online via the theatre’s website. Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, www.extrateatro.it.

MACBETH

19-29 March

The English Theatre of Rome stages a “post-apocalyptic interpretation” of Shakespeare’s Macbeth, directed by Douglas Dean. This is Dean’s

third all-female production, following the sold-out successes of Hamlet and Richard III. The English-language show takes place 19-22 March and 26-29 March, each evening at 20.00. Teatro Arciliuto, Piazza di Montevecchio 5 (Piazza Navona), tel. 066879419.

CHE DISASTRO DI PETER PAN 25 March-11 April

This farcical comedy, based on the original story by J.M. Barrie, is the Italian version of the British blockbuster show about an overlyambitious theatre company and its disastrous production of Peter Pan. A series of unexpected events put the actors’ professionalism to the test, leading to appearances by the increasingly agitated director and much laughter from the audience. Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 80687231, www. teatrobrancaccio.it.

TIMELOSS

26-29 March

Teatro India stages Timeloss, by Amir

Reza Koohestani, the Iranian theatre maker who gained international acclaim in 2001 for his play Dance on glasses whose protagonists are two lovers – a dance teacher and his muse – in the throes of separation. Timeloss, described by Teatro India as a “show of rare delicacy”, sees the pair reunited at the same table 12 years after their break-up, not looking at each other, haunted by the ghosts of a past they choose to reject. In Italian. Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman, tel. 0687752210, www.teatrodiroma.net.

ROME’S COMEDY CLUB 27 March

With almost 100 shows under its belt over the last decade, Rome’s Comedy Club is currently midway through its tenth season of stand-up comedy in English. The €15 entry fee includes aperitivo, a beer or glass of wine. Doors open at 20.00, and the show starts at 21.30. Bookings by text via Whatsapp 3397514140 or email makairoma@gmail.com. Makai Surf and Tiki bar, Via dei Magazzini Generali, 4/a/b/c.

ACADEMIES AMERICAN ACADEMY IN ROME 21 Feb-29 March

Cinque Mostre is an annual exhibition of curatorial projects by the Rome Prize winners, Italian Fellows and invited artists at the American Academy in Rome. This year’s event is held under the collective title Convergence and comprises cross-disciplinary projects installed throughout the academy building. The project unites works by visual artists, architects, designers, writers, archeologists, art historians and conservators. This year’s exhibitors are: Azza Abo Rebieh, Samiya Bashir, Garrett Bradley, David Brooks, Matthew Brennan + Eugenia Morpurgo, Dina Danish + Jean-Baptiste Maître, Rä di Martino, Corinna Gosmaro, John Jesurun, Pamela Z, and Giovanna Silva. Cinque Mostre can be visited at

46 | March 2020 • Wanted in Rome

weekends until 30 March, Sat-Sun 16.00-19.00. American Academy in Rome, Via Angelo Masina 5, tel. 0658461, www.aarome.org.

BRITISH SCHOOL OF ROME 4 March

To mark the 500th anniversary of the death of Raphael the British School at Rome hosts The archaeology of Raphael’s drawings: uncovering new sketches and methodologies, a lecture by Angelamaria Aceto of the Ashmolean Museum in Oxford, at 18.00 on 4 March. The talk will explore Raphael as draughtsman, presenting new insights revealed by scientific analysis into the materials and techniques used in his drawings. Raphael offers a rich case-study as the Renaissance master employed chalk, charcoal, ink, washes and metalpoints in his work.

March Mostra The BSR hosts its annual March Mostra of works by current Fine Arts award-holders. Exhibiting artists include Paul Becker, Bea Bonafini, Sharon Kelly, Barbara Walker, Wendelien Bakker, Sarah N. Pupo, Max Fletcher, and Yun Fu. The exhibition opens on 13 March, from 18.30-21.00, and can be visited 14-21 March, Mon–Sat 16.30–19.00. For full details see BSR website. British School at Rome, Via Gramsci 61, tel. 063264939, www.bsr.ac.uk.

CASA DI GOETHE 28 Feb-20 Sept

Casa di Goethe presents Sources of inspiration: Libraries of German Artists in Rome 1795-1915, an exhibition which is expected to open a “new chapter in GermanRoman art history.” Until recently

little was known about the fact that German artists studied books in a library established specifically for them with the same passion they devoted to Rome’s countless art works. The paintings, books and archive documents on display in this exhibition highlight the Library of the German Artists’ Association (Deutscher Künstlerverein), active in Rome between 1845 and 1915. The library was founded at Palazzo Simonetti on Via del Corso 307, moving several times over the course of its long history, with the collection held today at Casa di Goethe. Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it.

JAPANESE CULTURAL INSTITUTE 5 March-1 June The

Japanese

Cultural

Institute

Cinque Mostre at American Academy in Rome. Pamela Z (Frederic A. Julliard/Walter Damrosch Rome Prize). Pamela Z, Spolia Sonora.

presents an exhibition highlighting Japan’s tradition of re-making, giving new life to old cultural objects, re-interpreting and remodelling puppets, fabrics and prints from the past. The institute is also holding a film festival featuring

10 animated movies from the early 2000s, screened in their original Japanese, with subtitles in Italian or English, until 12 March. Istituto Giapponese di Cultura in Roma, Via Antonio Gramsci 74, tel. 063224794, www.jfroma.it.

as favourites to win this year’s tournament – on 14 March, after playing against Scotland in Rome on 22 February. Italy was hammered by reigning champions Wales in Cardiff on 1 February (42-0) followed by a 35-22 defeat by France in Paris on 9 February. Italy’s last away game

is against Ireland in Dublin on 7 March. South African Franco Smith was recently appointed interim head coach to Italy after Irishman Conor O’Shea stood down from the role in November. For details of Six Nations matches see website, www. sixnationsrugby.com.

sport SIX NATIONS RUGBY IN ROME 14 March

The Italian rugby team will play its second home match in Rome’s Stadio Olimpico during the 2020 Six Nations, when it faces England – tipped by some commentators

ST PATRICK'S DAY IN ROME

St Patrick’s Day falls on Tuesday 17 March, with one of the main events – the St Patrick’s Day Gala Dinner – taking place on Saturday 14 March. Hosted by the Irish Club of Rome, the event will be held at L’Archeologia restaurant on Via Appia Antica. Tickets cost €60 and can be reserved by emailing irishclubofrome@gmail. com. The day is marked officially on 17 March at 10.00 with a Mass for Lá Fhéile Pádraig, which this year will be celebrated at St Isidore’s Church, followed by a reception afterwards in the cloister. The Mass is always well-attended by the city’s Irish community and friends of Ireland, who unite in a nostalgic rendition of Hail Glorious, St Patrick. Later

Rome group The Shire plays Irish trad sessions for St Patrick's Day.

that evening Trajan's Column will be bathed in green lights as part of Tourism Ireland’s international Global Greening initiative, now in its 11th year. Rome-based traditional Irish music band The Shire will play a trad session at the Nag’s Head, near Piazza Venezia, at 22.00 on St Patrick’s night. If you plan

to raise a toast to Ireland with a pint of Guinness, some of the pubs most favoured by Rome’s Irish residents include the Druid’s Den, the Fiddler’s Elbow, Finnegan’s and Scholars Lounge, the last of which has five bands performing live throughout St Patrick’s Day, from the morning until the wee hours. Wanted in Rome • March 2020 | 47

lassical lassical

The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a definitive list of all the music that is available in the city. The following is a list of the main musical There are also concerts in many of the associations in Rome but it is not a definitive churches and sometimes in the museums. list of all the music that is available in the city. There are also concerts in many of the Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della churches and sometimes in the museums. Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Auditorium Conciliazione, ViaP. de della Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Accademia Filarmonica Teatro Auditorium Parco della Romana, Musica, Viale P. de Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro starts on 15 Oct Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season concerts Parco della Musica. The startsat onAuditorium 15 Oct newAccademia season startsS. on 5Cecilia, Oct www.santacecilia.it. All

concerts Universitaria at Auditorium Parco della Musica. Istituzione dei Concerti, AulaThe newUniversità season starts on 5 Oct www.concertiiuc.it Magna, la Sapienza,

Istituzione Universitaria deiGonfalone Concerti,32a, Aula Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it www.oratoriogonfalone.com Oratorio delMethodist Gonfalone, Via delPiazza Gonfalone 32a, RomeConcerts, Church, Ponte www.oratoriogonfalone.com S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it RomeConcerts, Piazza Ponte Roma Sinfonietta, Methodist AuditoriumChurch, Ennio Morricone, S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Roma Auditorium Roma Tre Sinfonietta, Orchestra, some concertsEnnio are atMorricone, Teatro Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others at Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are are at Teatro the Aula Magna, Piazza Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, 8, Palladium, Bartolomeo Romano Universita Roma Tre, Via while Ostienze teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, others234, are at www.r30.org the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Tre,festivals Via Ostienze 234, There are oftenRoma concerts, and opera www.r30.org recitals in several churches in Rome.

often concerts, festivals and153, opera All There Saints' are Anglican Church, Via Babuino recitals in several churches in Rome. www.allsaintsrome.org All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. www.allsaintsrome.org Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7 Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com

Oratorio del Caravita, Caravita St Paul's Within the Walls,Via Viadella Nazionale and7 the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the S. Agnese Sagrestia del Borromini, corner ofin ViaAgone, Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it Piazza Navona S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Palazzo PiazzaDoria NavonaPamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum Serenades by Night Dinner throughout and Opera dinner afterwards. Viawith del Corso 305, the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum www.doriapamphilj.com and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com Jan 2019 • Wanted Rome 5048 |48 Oct 2018 •2020 Wanted in in Rome | |March • Wanted in Rome

MUSIC MUSIC THEATR THEATRE CINEMA CINEMA VENUES VENUES

MUSIC THEATRE CINEMA DANCE OPERA

inema inema

The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wantedshow in Rome website for The following cinemas movies in English weekly updates. or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for Adriano, Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 weeklyPiazza updates. Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 0686391361 Barberini, Piazza BarberiniMastroianni 24-26, 1, tel. Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello 0686391361 tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it 068553485 Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 068553485 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 066861068 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 066861068 Odeon, Piazza Stefano 22, tel. Nuovo Sacher, LargoJacini Ascianghi 1, 0686391361 tel. 065818116

Space Moderno, Piazza della 44, tel. Odeon, Piazza Stefano JaciniRepubblica 22, tel. 0686391361 06892111 Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebec06892111 chini 3-5, tel. 06892111 Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111

ddance oopera p pop r ock r ance

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano www.teatrovascello.it 17, www.teatroolimpico.it

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it

pera

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

ock

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Concert venues ranging from major pop and Alexanderplatz, 9, tel. 0683775604 rock groups to Via jazzOstia and acoustic gigs. www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org Angelo Mai Via Atlantico delle Terme di Atlantico, VialeAltrove, dell’Oceano 271d, Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it

Atlantico, Viale Atlantico Auditorium Parcodell’Oceano della Musica, Viale 271d, P. de tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com Auditorium della Viale de Casa del Jazz, Parco Viale di PortaMusica, Ardeatina 55,P.tel. Coubertin,www.casajazz.it tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com 06704731,

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

heatre heatre

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net www.teatrobelli.it Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobelli.it www.teatrobrancaccio.it Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatrobrancaccio.it www.teatroghione.it Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. www.teatroghione.it 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net

PalaLottomatica, Piazzale Sport 1, tel. Rock in Roma, Via Appiadello Nuova 1245, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it www.teatrosangenesio.it Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsiwww.teatrosangenesio.it stina.it Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.ilsistina.it www.teatrovascello.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Vittoria,www.teatrovascello.it Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. tel. 065898031, 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it 51 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome

ddance oopera p pop r ock r ance

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

pera

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

ock

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

heatre heatre

Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com Lanificio 159,ViaVia di Pietralata 159, Live Alcazar, Cardinale Merry del Valtel. 14, 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com Live Alcazar, Merry del 35, Val 14, Monk Club, Via ViaCardinale Giuseppe Mirri tel. tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com 0664850987, www.monkroma.it Monk Club, ViaPiazzale Giuseppe Mirri 35,1, tel. PalaLottomatica, dello Sport tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it PalaLottomatica, Piazzale Sport 1, tel. Rock in Roma, Via Appiadello Nuova 1245, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

WANTED junior inROME Carol Ann Duffy and Ella Duffy visit St Stephen’s School by Laura Rizzo (age 17) and Isabella Todini (age 18), Grade 12 Creative Writing class Both Creative Writing classes had the privilege of meeting Ella Duffy, and also of having her as part of our workshop. The workshop is a process that takes place every class, in which each student reads his or her piece and receives written and oral feedback from everyone else. Ella read our pieces and gave us feedback on them, including comments that will help us improve our writing in the future. However it felt as if she was part of the class and not simply teaching us, as she was constantly building on everyone else’s comments, which made her presence even more significant to us and our classmates. The passion and dedication she showed towards the workshop process were so incredibly rewarding to us, as we had worked so hard to write our pieces, and it was genuinely great to hear an external point of view on our writing from such a young, successful writer. After having discussed our pieces, she was open to answering any questions we had, and shared

Ella Duffy and Carol Ann Duffy sign books at St Stephen's School. Photographs by Mario Ventura.

52 | March 2020 • Wanted in Rome

details on her journey as a writer, which allowed us to get to know her more personally. A very interesting question was what emotion Ella feels more prominently in relation to her writing, and her answer was patience. She told us about all the instances in which she had to wait months before she was able to transform the ideas she had into actual writing, and while most of us related to this aspect of writing, it also taught us so much about becoming a writer, which is something some of us want to pursue. Ella also spoke about how her mother’s work affected her own writing and her career, an answer we equally learned a lot from. Carol Ann Duffy and Ella Duffy Reading The day former UK Poet Laureate Carol Ann Duffy and her daughter, Ella Duffy, visited St Stephen’s School, the school held a reading that evening in the Chapel. Both Ella and Carol Ann were introduced and read a variety of their poems. The people present at the reading ranged from all ages and came from different schools too; there were about 200 people in the audience, and the event was very successful. The reading began with Moira Egan’s moving introduction of both writers, in which she explained the magnitude of Carol Ann Duffy’s work, who was the first woman and the first member of the LGBTQ+ community to ever become Poet Laureate, and the power of Ella Duffy’s work. Ella then read some of her poems, which have received a variety of well-acclaimed prizes; her presence and her powerful voice proved to have a profound effect on the audience. The poems she read were available on flyers which one could get for free and ask her to sign. Subsequently, Carol Ann Duffy read poems from her most acclaimed collection: The World’s Wife, as well as introducing her newest collection: Sincerity. Her collections were available to buy at a stand near the stairs of the Auditorium and were sold out almost immediately. The audience was instantly infatuated with the magnetic voice that Carol Ann manifested in her poetry and

followed her writing passionately, constantly laughing with her. Both writers thanked the school and Moira Egan for hosting the event. Embrace In a forum beyond just poetry, Ella and Carol Ann Duffy met privately with the Embrace Club. The Embrace Club is an LGBTQ+ alliance club that offers a safe space for students to meet and discuss issues surrounding discrimination and social justice. The Embrace Club is a powerful force at St Stephen’s, having organised the school’s Non-Traditional Education Day (NED) for two years in a row, during which, topics such as gender, sexuality, cultural appropriation, body image, and many more are discussed in an informal setting that gives students a chance to learn about subjects that aren’t discussed in the everyday classroom. As members of the LGBTQ+ community and advocates for other LGBTQ+ members, Ella and Carol Ann spoke to the club about the intersections between their identities and their roles as poets, and answered questions from members of the club. One of the most fascinating questions was directed to Carol Ann, asking whether she incorporated any themes connected to those discussed during NED in her work for children, and how she presented non-heteronormative narratives in her work for younger readers. Her response was an anecdote, accompanied with a giggle, about a story she wrote, Queen Munch and Queen Nibble, that explores the different eating habits of two queens. Ella added that after reading the story as an adult she was struck by the undertones in the story, and the two agreed that the characters in the story could be read as being in a relationship. Carol Ann also spoke about her experience of having her sexuality discussed in the media. She described the way that newspapers are unable to separate her sexuality from her work, and how frustrating she finds this, as she would prefer for her work to take centre stage, not her sexual orientation. Ella also spoke about growing up with a famous gay mother and the way that this influenced what others thought of her, particularly during school, and how she overcame feeling judged both for her mother’s sexuality and for her own sexuality. She also spoke about LGBTQ+ voices in British poetry, and gave the club members some recommendations for other poets they could support. The insight and personal stories offered

by Ella and Carol Ann made for a lovely and intimate conversation between the Embrace club members and the poets, and left everyone feeling all the more inspired, and proud to be part of such a change-making club. English classes On the second day of the visit, a number of English classes had the chance to visit with Carol Ann for a short reading and Q&A session. The English teachers of each section described what they were studying in their courses, and if they had read any of Carol Ann’s work. In one session, Carol Ann read the poem “Originally”, which explores her childhood move from Scotland to England, the feelings of “otherness” that came with that experience. The poem had been studied by the grade 12 Higher Level English Literature class as an unseen text, based on which the students had to write a commentary. As members of the HL Lit class, we can say that it was quite a remarkable experience hearing a poem that we had studied in class being read aloud by the very poet who penned it, and hearing her discuss the experience beyond what was described in the poem enriched our understanding of the work and the context surrounding it. Carol Ann read a number of other poems, and answered questions from the students about being a poet and her creative process, creating an altogether unforgettable experience. St Stephen's School, Via Aventina 3, tel. 065750605, www.sssrome.it.

Ella Duffy and Carol Ann Duffy at St Stephen's.

WANTED IN ROME JUNIOR: For young writers and artists Wanted in Rome accepts creative contributions from students in all international schools in Rome. Articles on topics related to either the student’s life in Rome or their school projects can be submitted by their class teachers. The work should be no more than 1,000 words and we also accept illustrations. Any class teachers who would like to propose a project please contact editorial@wantedinrome.com.

Wanted in Rome • March 2020 | 53

Rome’s artart capital continues to to grow with newnew murals by important Italian and Rome'sreputation reputationasasananimportant importantstreet street capital continues grow with murals by important Italian international streetstreet artistsartists appearing all the all time. the works located the suburbs, often far often from the and international appearing theMost time.ofMost of theare works are in located in the suburbs, far centre. Here is where to is find Rome’s mainthe street artstreet projects murals. from the centre. Here where to find main artand projects and murals around Rome. Esquilino Esquilino Murals Murals byby Alice Alice Pasquini, Pasquini, Gio Gio Pistone, Nicola Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Alessandrini, Diamond. Diamond. Casa Casa dell’Architettura, dell'Architettura, Piazza Fanti 47. PiazzaMafredo Manfredo Fanti 47. Marconi Marconi The The M.A.G.R. M.A.G.R. (Museo (Museo Abusivo Abusivo Gestito Gestitodai daiRom), Rom),a aproject projectby byFrench French street artistSeth Seth is located in a street artist is located in a former former soap factory Via Antonio soap factory on Viaon Antonio AvogaAvogadro, opposite dro, opposite Ostiense'sOstiense’s landmark landmark Gasometro. details see Gasometro. For For details see www.999contemporary.com. www.999contemporary.com. Museodell’Altro dell’Altroe edell’Altrove dell’Altrovedidi Museo Metropoliz Metropoliz This former former meat meat factory factory inin the the This outskirts of of Rome art outskirts Rome isis now nowa astreet street museum being home hometoto art museumasaswell well as as being some200 200squatting squatters,migrants. many of The them some migrants. The Museo dell’Altrodi e Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove dell’Altroveor diMAAM, Metropoliz, or MAAM, Metropoliz, is only open only open Saturdays, and onis Saturdays, andon features the work the work of moreincluding than 300 offeatures more than 300 artists artists including Gio Edoardo Kobra,Edoardo Gio Kobra, Pistone, Pistone, Sten&Lex Diamond.and See Sten&Lex, Pablo and Echaurren MAAM Facebook page for details. Borondo. See MAAM Facebook page Via Prenestina 913. for details. Via Prenestina 913. Ostiense Ostiense Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Porto Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Fluviale. Porto Fluviale. Fish’n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via Fish’n’Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale. del Porto Fluviale. Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali. Magazzini Generali. Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense Via Ostiense. underpass, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense. Pigneto Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Pigneto Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71. Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.

54 | March 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Via Via Fanfulla Fanfulla da da Lodi. Lodi. 2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio. Fortebraccio. 2501 mural on Via Blu by Sten Blu Landscape Landscape by Sten & & Lex. Lex. Via Via Francesco Baracca. Francesco Baracca. Prati Prati Anna Magnaniportrait portrait by Diavù. Anna Magnani by Diavù. Nuovo Nuovo MercatoViaTrionfale, Via Mercato Trionfale, Andrea Doria. Andrea Doria. theSabotino. bear by Daniza the bear byDaniza ROA. Via ROA. Via Sabotino. Primavalle Primavalle The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via Cristoforo Numai. Cristoforo Numai. Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Theseus stabbing the Bembo. Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo. Quadraro Quadraro Tunnel murals by Mr THOMS and Gio Tunnel byMure. Mr THOMS and Pistone. murals Via Decio Gio Decio Mure. Via del NidoPistone. di Vespe Via by Lucamaleonte. Nido didel Vespe by Lucamaleonte. Via Monte Grano. del Monte Baby Hulkdel byGrano. Ron English. Via dei Baby PisoniHulk 89. by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89. Rebibbia Rebibbia Murals by Blu. Via Ciciliano and Via Murals by Blu. Via Palombini (Casal dèCiciliano Pazzi). and Via Palombini dè Pazzi). Welcome to(Casal Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Metro B station. Metro B station. S. Basilio S.SanBa Basilio features large-scale works on SanBa features large-scale works the façades of social-housing blockson in the of social-housing blocks the façades disadvantaged north-east suburb of in the disadvantaged north-east S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regenerasuburb of S.includes Basilio works near Rebibbia. tion project by Italian The project artistsregeneration Agostino Iacurci, Hitnesincludes and Blu works by Spain's ItalianLiqen. artistsViaAgostino alongside Maiolati, Iacurci, Hitnes and BluVia alongside Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Arcevia, Spain’s Via Treia.Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, Via Treia. S. Giovanni Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via S.Apulia Giovanni corner of Via Farsalo. Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.

It’s aa New NewDay Daybyby Alice Pasquini. It’s Alice Pasquini. Via Via Anton Ludovico. Anton Ludovico. S. Lorenzo Lorenzo S. AlicePasquini. Pasquini. ViaSabelli. dei Sabelli. Alice Via dei Feminicidemural mural Elisa Feminicide by Elisaby Caracciolo. Caracciolo. Via Dei Sardi.Via Dei Sardi. Borondo. Via Viadei deiVolsci Volsci159. 159. Borondo. Mural by by Agostino AgostinoIacurci Iacurci on Mural on the the Istituto Superiore di Lattanzio, Vittorio Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia. Via Aquilonia. Pietro S. Pietro UmaCabra Cabra Bordalo II. Stazione Uma byby Bordalo II. Stazione di S. Pietro, di Monte di S. Clivo Pietro, Clivo del di Gallo. Monte del Gallo. Testaccio Hunted Wolf by ROA. Via Galvani. Testaccio #KindComments AliceVia Pasquini, Via Hunted Wolf bybyROA. Galvani. Volta, Testaccio market. #KindComments by Alice Pasquini, Via Volta, Testaccio market. Tor Pignattara Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta. Tor Pignattara Etnik. Via Bartolomeo Perestrello 51. Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta. Coffee Etam Cru. Via Ludovico Etnik.Break ViabyBartolomeo Perestrello Pavoni. 51. Coﬀee Break by Etam Cru. Via Tom SawyerPavoni. by Jef Aerosol. Via Gabrio Ludovico Serbelloni. Tom Sawyer by Jef Aerosol. Via Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema Gabrio Serbelloni. Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Galeazzo Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Alessi. Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Herakut. Via Capua 14. Galeazzo Alessi. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Herakut. Via Capua 14. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Tor Marancia The Big City Life scheme features 14-m Tormurals Marancia tall by 22 Italian and internaThe Big City artists Life scheme features tional street including Mr 14-m tall by Jerico. 22 Italian and Klevra, Seth,murals Gaia and The idea international street was to transform theartists area's including blocks of Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia and Jerico. flats into an open-air art museum. Via TheMarancia. idea was to transform the area’s Tor www.bigcity.life.it. blocks of ﬂats into an open-air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. For full details see website, www.bigcity.life.it.

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth. Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

Wanted in Rome â&#x20AC;¢ March 2020 | 55

Wanted in Rome | December 2017

An Education for Life that will make the diďŹ&#x20AC;erence

Castelli International School

International Elementary and Middle School

www.castelli-international.it

CARCIOFI ALLA GIUDIABy Kate Zagorski As a classic dish of Jewish-Roman cuisine, carciofi alla giudia (Jewish-style, deep-fried artichokes) are a must-eat dish in the Eternal City. Although many restaurants, particularly in the Jewish Ghetto, serve them almost year-round, it is in the springtime when the local romanesco artichokes hit peak season that they are at their best. Making carciofi alla giudia at home is simpler than it looks. It helps if you can purchase your artichokes ready-cleaned (most market stalls will do this for you), otherwise factor in a little extra time to prepare them. The locally-grown Roman artichokes are spherical, with abundant, tightly packed leaves and no inner choke. The artichokes are fried twice, the first time at a lower temperature and for a longer period to ensure they are cooked through, and the second time at a high heat to open out the leaves and turn them golden. The outer layer of leaves should be hot and crunchy with the interior becoming softer and more tender. Don’t forget to eat the stalk too! To make this recipe it is handy to have a kitchen thermometer as the artichokes are fried at two different temperatures, but it is possible to make them without. Just use a smaller ring on the stove for the first fry and a larger one for the second.

Ingredients 4 Roman artichokes 2 lt vegetable oil 1 lemon Salt Pepper

• Firstly, if not already done, you will need to trim and clean the artichokes. Start by removing the hard, outer leaves then, using a sharp knife, cut

the stem, leaving around 5-6cm. Cut the top third off the head of the artichoke, then trim the leaves in a spiral motion until you get to the paler yellow leaves. Trim the tougher exterior from the base of the stem. • Now halve the lemon and rub the artichokes before placing them in a large bowl of cold water along with the juice of the lemon and the rinds. This will prevent oxidisation turning the leaves black. • In the meantime, bring a large saucepan of vegetable oil to a temperature of 130°C, if you use a smaller ring on you stove you should prevent the oil getting too hot. • Drain the artichokes and dry them well with kitchen paper, then place them into the oil and cook for about 10 minutes. Test that the artichokes are cooked by poking a fork or skewer at the base of the stalk. If it goes in and out easily the artichokes are ready. Remove the artichokes from the oil and leave them too cool on kitchen paper to absorb the excess oil. • Once they are cool, use your finger to open out the leaves, as if it were a flower. This will encourage them to open out further during the second frying. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, then heat the oil back up on a larger stove ring to a temperature of 190°. Carefully plunge the artichokes into the oil and cook for a few minutes until the leaves turn golden and crispy. • Remove the artichokes from the oil and leave them to drain for a minute before sprinkling with a little salt and serving hot and crunchy.

58 | March 2020 â&#x20AC;˘ Wanted in Rome

The best cacio e pepe in Rome, seven unmissable restaurants Cacio e pepe is the quintessential Roman pasta dish, made with simple ingredients but far from simple to prepare. There are those who like it with hand-made tonnarello, and those who prefer spaghetti. Here are the best cacio e pepe restaurants in Rome, according to Puntarella Rossa. 7. FLAVIO AL VELAVEVODETTO In Testaccio, chef and restaurateur Flavio De Maio serves the finest specialities of Roman cuisine. Flavio's cacio e pepe recipe doesn’t call for a frying pan, but for a ‘mantecatura’ off the heat with pecorino romano, black pepper, the cooking water from the pasta and a dash of olive oil (“to ensure that when the dish cools down, the cheese mixes with the oil and adds a burst of flavour, taking the edge off the pecorino”). Price: €11. 6. DA FELICE Since Felice Trivelloni opened his osteria in 1936, the restaurant has been something of an institution for Roman cuisine. Their forte is indeed the cacio e pepe; it is plentiful and delicious and made with tonnarelli, cooking water from the pasta, pecorino and olive oil, for an irresistible creaminess. The finishing touch is the way in which it’s served: the pasta, cooking water and pecorino are mixed directly on the customer’s plate. Price: €13. 5. DA DANILO The cacio e pepe served at Trattoria Da Danilo in Esquillino is definitely one of the most renowned in the city. The most famous dish is, of course, the tonnarelli cacio e pepe, made with olive oil, freshly ground black pepper, cooking water from the pasta and pecorino romano. The difference at Danilo is that the pasta is mixed together directly in the pecorino romano wheel itself. The result is a superb creaminess and an intense flavour. Price: €10. 4. DA CESARE Here you can enjoy two versions of cacio e pepe, one with dry pasta (spaghetti, rigatoni), or fresh, handmade tonnarelli. Chef Leonardo Vignoli explains that to make cacio e pepe you need to mix the ground black pepper with the grated pecorino romano (which should have been matured for 6 months minimum) and a little cold water, then add the al dente spaghetti and give it a first mix off the heat. You should then add a generous spoonful

of cooking water from the pasta, put it back on the heat and stir it until it is creamy. Price: €9. 3. VYTA ENOTECA REGIONALE DEL LAZIO At Vyta you can try two versions of cacio e pepe, the classic variety or the summer version: tonnarelli, pecorino romano, fresh pepper, lemon and Roman mint. Here’s the recipe for a 500g serving: cook the tonnarelli in lots of salted water. While the pasta is still on the heat, take a spoonful of the cooking water and put it in a large saucepan. Add ground pepper to the water. Drain the pasta, put in pan and mix. Keep the pan on the heat and mix very slowly, using 100g of pecorino and grated lemon rind. Keep stirring until there’s the creaminess of cacio e pepe. Then add mint leaves. Serve immediately, adding another 50g of pecorino. Price: €13. 2. LA TERRAZZA DELL’HOTEL EDEN At the Hotel Eden, one of Rome’s most exclusive hotels, award-winning chef Fabio Ciervo is famous for his spaghetti cacio e pepe from Madagascar. He has reinterpreted the Roman pasta dish with thick spaghetti, chicken stock, pecorino romano, rose petals and black pepper from Madagascar. This is without a doubt one of the best cacio e pepe in Rome, but it is very expensive in comparison to our other favourites. Price: €45. 1. ROSCIOLI Established in 1824 and run by a family spanning four generations, Roscioli is a renowned Roman restaurant. Its menu includes all the classic Roman dishes but the star of the show is the cacio e pepe. And so what’s in theirs? Tonnarelli, pecorino romano, cheese from Moliterno, pecorino that has been matured in the earth from Sogliano and Malaysian pepper. It’s not such a simple list as the mix of cheeses gives the dish a special flavour. At the very end, Javan and Sarawakan pepper are ground together and then toasted as the finishing touch – it’s sensational. Price: €12.

www.puntarellarossa.it

Felice, Via Mastro Giorgio 29, tel. 065746800, www.feliceatestaccio.it Da Danilo, Via Petrarca 13, tel. 0677200111, www.trattoriadadanilo.com

Indirizzi

Flavio al Velavevodetto, Via di Monte Testaccio 97, tel. 065744194, www.ristorantevelavevodetto.it

Da Cesare, Via del Casaletto 45, tel. 06536015, www.trattoriadacesare.it VyTa, Via Frattina 94, tel. 0647786876, www.vytaenotecalazio.it La Terrazza Hotel Eden, Via Ludovisi 49, www.dorchestercollection.com/en/rome/hotel-eden Roscioli, Via dei Giubbonari 21, tel. 066875287, www.salumeriaroscioli.com Wanted in Rome • March 2020 | 59

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Your Passport to Worldclass Healthcare Campus Bio-Medico University Hospital of Rome provides: • Coordination of Hospital, physician and diagnostic appointments • Free of charge translation services for all the procedures • 12 hours medical services, including air ambulance transfer coordination • Partnership with major International Insurance Companies • Elevated International Standard and sole General Hospital JCI Accredited in Rome Whether you are a patient, family member or friend feel free to contact us at: Hospitaly - International Patients Program Officer Via Álvaro del Portillo, 200 - Rome (Italy) mail: info@hospitaly.it - phone: 0039.06.22541.8852 WWW.HOSPITALY.IT

Associations American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com Daughters of the American Revolution Pax Romana Chapter NSDAR paxromana@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com

International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490, www.iwcofrome.it Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 3338466820 Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Woman’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com

Books The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified. Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 Anglo American Bookshop Via delle Vite 102, tel. 066795222 Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it

Religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881 Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish)

62 | March 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484 Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com Otherwise Via del Governo Vecchio, tel. 066879825, www.otherwisebookshop.com St Patrick’s English-Language Lending Library Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 0688818727, Sun 10.00-12.30, Tues 10.00-14.00, Wed 15.00-18.00, Thurs 11.00-15.30 Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 3332284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday Service 10.30

Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei SS. Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Roma Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic) Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00

Support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.com Archè (HIV+children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/06582045580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 3381675680

Transport • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157066645-064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it

St Isidore College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic), Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827, www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri” Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022

Chiamaroma 24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Emergency numbers • • • • • • •

Ambulance tel. 118 Carabinieri tel. 112 Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 Fire brigade tel. 115 Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 Police tel. 113 Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355 Wanted in Rome • March 2020 | 63

Single Cycle Master Degree Program

Medicine and Surgery

The new English-taught Master Degree Program is designed using a multidisciplinary approach to train students to become doctors practicing in a diverse biomedical-social culture with interdisciplinary and intercultural working skills. In line with the guiding principles of Campus Bio-Medico University of Rome, the teaching is entirely patient-centred and community-centred. A deep knowledge of ethical issues is applied to the use of advanced medical technology in order to promote health-care through a humanistic approach. Students are provided with strong foundations in scientific methodology, statistics and "evidence based medicine” imparted through means of Problem-Based Learning (PBL) a method that uses complex real-world problems as the vehicle to stimulate student learning of theoretical concepts and principles as opposed to direct presentation of facts and concepts. The program is designed in such a way that its core contents anticipate and integrate the European specifications for global standards in medical education according to the World Federation on Medical Education in international basic standards and quality development of biomedical education (WFME Office, University of Copenhagen, 2007) and the Basic Medical Education WFME Global Standards for Quality Improvement - 2015 Revision (WFME Office Ferney-Voltaire, France Copenhagen, Denmark 2015).

orientamento@unicampus.it - www.unicampus.it

Tel: 06.22541.9056/8121/8715 - Via Álvaro del Portillo 21 - 00128 Roma

Y B G U R L E D O L O C SS E A N T N I T U G E I N O LO SP I Z A N I E S ITALIA VS SCOZIA

ROMA STADIO OLIMPICO

SABATO 22 FEBBRAIO • ORE 15.15

2020

ITALIA VS INGHILTERRA SABATO 14 MARZO • ORE 17.45

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DMAX - CANALE 52

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