Wanted in Rome - February 2020 by Wanted in Rome

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THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME

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I CAPULETI E I MONTECCHI CONDUCTOR DANIELE GATTI DIRECTOR, SET, COSTUME, LIGHTING DESIGNER DENIS KRIEF JANUARY 30, 31, FEBRUARY 2, 5

SERATA JEROME ROBBINS Ettore Festa, HaunagDesign - Illustrations by Gianluigi Toccafondo

CONDUCTOR CARLO DONADIO CHOREOGRAPHER JEROME ROBBINS FEBRUARY 18, 21, 23, 25, 29

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CONDUCTOR JAMES CONLON DIRECTOR ROBERT CARSEN TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA ORCHESTRA, CHORUS AND CORPS DE BALLET

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FOUNDERS

PRIVATE SHAREHOLDERS

PATRONS

CONT E

4. INTERVIEW WITH DIRECTORS OF AMBRIT INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL ROME Marco Venturini

8. WELCOME TO ROME LAND Mike Dilien

12. ANCIENTLY MODERN MARTIAL Martin Bennett

MISCELLANY

16. 18. 22. 26. 48. 52. 54. 57. 58. 62.

DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: Marco Venturini EDITRICE: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9 PROGETTO GRAFICO E IMPAGINAZIONE: Dali Studio Srl STAMPA: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c. DIFFUSIONE: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425. Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131del 6/3/1985. Finito di stampare il 31/01/2020

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Claudia Pasanisi, Agnese digital photography, fine art print, 50x70 cm, ed.1/1. Courtesy the artist and Dorothy Circus Gallery. See What I've Seen So Far page 31.

ENTS

Ovindoli

Ovindoli is located tween Rome and L’Aquila in bruzzo, about 130 km from the capital the Sirente-Velino regional natural park. me of the longest cross-country skiing slopes in ntral Italy are in the Altopiano delle Rocche which nnects Ovindoli with Rocca di Mezzo. The Magnola ountain (1,400-2,220 m), offers 30 km of Alpine ing, served by modern and efficient lifts. The slopes in e Tre Nevi ski area are of all levels and there are some allenging black runs. There is the Magnola upper rk (1,980 m) as well as the lower park, located along e Dolce Vita slope (1,650 m). Ovindoli also has a very icient snowmaking system, which perfect artificial ow even when natural snow is lacking. www.ovindoliagnola.it.

escasseroli

cated in the heart of the Abruzzo national park about 0 km from Rome, this resort offers 20-km of skiing, vided in 14 slopes for all abilities, including two ficult black runs, six red or intermediate slopes and blue or easy ones for beginners. The 100-km long pe of Alto Sangro crosses the municipalities of scasseroli, Pescocostanzo, Aremogna, Pizzalto and onte Pratello. The resort has three chair lifts and two lifts. www.sciareapescasseroli.it.

Roccaraso

Roccaraso, which is about equidistant from Rome and Naples, is one of the major skiing resorts in the Abruzzo. It is the heart of the largest ski area in central Italy, the Alto Sangro area, which includes 160 km of slopes and 36 lifts. Founded in 1910, Roccaraso’s skiing resort still hosts prestigious international competitions. Its numerous slopes include some that are suitable for children. www.roccaraso.net.

Terminillo

This limestone mountain (2,215 m) is one of the few resorts north of Rome, close to Rieti and about 100 km from the capital. Since it was made fashionable by Mussolini in the 1930s it has been a tourist destination for passionate skiers, and it is still one of the favourite winter resorts for Rome’s skiers. It has one cable car, three chair lifts and a conveyor belt, as well as over 40 km of steep slopes for Alpine skiing and 20 km of perfectly beaten Nordic skiing slopes, which are also illuminated at night. Its variegated flora and fauna make it an ideal place for excursions, nature trails and other sporting activities, such as hiking and mountain races. It has a high-altitude riding school with horse-drawn sleds, and the possibility to rent powerful quads, which offer adventurous excursions on the snowy paths. www.monteterminillo.net.

INTERVIEW WITH DIRECTORS OF AMBRIT INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL ROME

Skiing near rome

ANCIENTLY MODERN MARTIAL

47 SPORT

Education

intervieW With direCtorS of Ambrit internAtionAl SChool rome

Ambrit founder And direCtor of AdmiSSionS bernArd mullAne And middle SChool prinCipAl And viCe-direCtor GiovAnni piCColo tAlk to WAnted in rome marco venturini

Wanted in Rome: Mr Mullane, what is your background and what brought you to Italy in the first place? Bernard Mullane: I am a US citizen and grew up in New York City. I moved to Rome as I was attracted to its history and to reconnect with friends who had previously made the move. I was a teacher in NYC at the time.

What was the main reason that pushed you to open an international school? I worked in an international school for some years in Rome before deciding to open something of my own. I started this collaboration in Quarto Miglio near the Appian Way. I saw the need for opening up an international school servicing the southcentre of Rome, as all available options were in the north of Rome. As an educator, you have a privileged point of view on what the future generations are going to look like. What can we expect from this new leading class you are helping to form? International mindedness and a global outlook on their future life choices. Ambrit offers them the opportunity to really be world citizens, learning to interact with people from all cultures, overcoming barriers and creating community. Our students graduate with a true sense of being part of a global community, with rights and common responsibilities, including stewardship of our common environment. How important is the role of family in relation to education at school?

Ambrit founder and director of admissions, Bernard Mullane.

4 | February 2020 â&#x20AC;˘ Wanted in Rome

Very important. We collaborate with our families, especially with regards to our pastoral care. The growth and education of our students is a joint effort between the home and the school, the family and the teaching community.

Education

Ambrit International School

Wanted in Rome: Mr Piccolo, you have recently moved to Italy from Australia. Can you tell us a bit about your own background? Giovanni Piccolo: I am an Italo-Australian and growing up I attended both the Italian school system and the Australian one. The two experiences were very different, as on one side you have the somewhat rigid but academically rigorous Italian program, while on the other side you have the student centred flexible inquiry based approach of the Australian system. I think this experience in school is what drove me towards education and teaching as a profession and calling. I am a history and English teacher by training and moved to Rome in 2012 and have been at Ambrit since then, first as an Individuals and Societies teacher, then Midde Years Program (MYP) Co-ordinator and now Middle School principal and vice-director.

complete Italian state exams both in Grade 5 and at the end of Middle School, and we are one of the only schools in Italy that successfully achieves this double curriculum within the normal school hours. In our collaboration with international high schools in Rome, we ultimately set our students up to successfully complete the IB Diploma Program. Ambrit is fundamentally an international learning community based on the IB values of international mindedness and inclusion, and it is this strong sense of community that is the

What does Ambrit represent today for students and their families in Rome? Ambrit is the only international school in Rome to offer a full International Baccalaureate educational continuum. It caters to students of the ages of 3-14. In our early childhood and primary school years, our curriculum is based on the Primary Years Program framework (PYP), while our Middle School offers the MYP. These programs allow us to frame an inquiry based approach to all our learning in which the student is at the centre of the experience. Ambrit also prepares students from our Italian community to

Middle School principal and vice-director Giovanni Piccolo.

Wanted in Rome â&#x20AC;˘ February 2020 | 5

Students at work in the grounds of Ambrit. C

driving force behind the historical success of the school. You can really feel the community spirit. We care about our students and their families, and it shows. This sense of community is further achieved through the study of languages like French, Mandarin, Spanish and Italian.

that cross disciplinary barriers. In the MYP we have what we would refer to as "traditional subject groups" that interact with each other in particular units. It is this ownership of the learning that more than anything will prepare the students for the new challenges that the future will bring.

How is the school preparing its pupils for this fast-changing world?

Could you give a short insight on the history of the school itself?

At Ambrit we recognise that the world in which our students are growing up in is unpredictable. Our students need to have the necessary tools to navigate successfully through it. We believe that these tools are to be found in just the right balance of skill development both generalised and disciplinespecific, and in knowledge development, and our curriculum design reflects this philosophy. Furthermore we believe that life-long learning needs to be based on a conscious drive towards improvement as our students learn how to learn. It is in developing this self-knowledge that the students will enjoy a lifetime of learning. The interconnected nature of our curriculum, transdisciplinary in the PYP and interdisciplinary in the MYP drives student interest in taking control of their own learning. The interconnected nature of our curriculum, transdisciplinary in the PYP and interdisciplinary in the MYP, drives students interest in taking control of their own learning.

Ambrit International School began as a small school for 3 to 13-year-olds on the Appia Pignatelli to the south of Rome. The school was started by three young international teachers who sought to combine the best of both the American and British curricula that reflected and respected the Italian national curriculum as well. In 1995 after arriving at a student body of 270 children, the school reached its capacity and was soon to lose its lease on the building it occupied. This is when Mr Bernard Mullane made the brave decision to strike out on his own and transfer Ambrit School to its present more central location in the Vigna Pia neighbourhood near Monteverde. The impressive building built in 1846 nestled in green grounds and playing fields was considered too large when Ambrit moved in but over the years the number of students has grown at an impressive rate. The Vigna Pia location now houses close to 500 students from all over the world.

The PYP is transdisciplinary in the sense that concepts, skills, and content is taught through units

Ambrit International School, Via F. Tajani 50, tel. 065595305, www.ambrit-rome.com.

6 | February 2020 â&#x20AC;˘ Wanted in Rome

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“

Its original name is the Flavian Amphitheatre.” The guide points at the Colosseum, once the world’s largest stadium. She then explains that the floor, which once hosted animal fights and sea battles, will soon host cultural events of the highest level. The group is gathering beside a panini van. On its counter shimmers a large jar of Nutella. “Look over there,” one of the tour participants says and indicates a couple of centurions: “Cast members!” The tour guide continues: “And this is the main avenue, called Via dei Fori Imperiali. It runs right through the heart of the ancient empire.” The road connects the former stadium to the city hall. A dressed-up horse carriage with a robed rider trots by. Its passengers admire the remains

of government buildings, places of worship and a marketplace. “So, Dad,” a young man asks the adult standing beside him, “this is Rome’s Main Street USA?” In the travel agency, when the father explained the family had visited both Disneyland and Las Vegas and that now he wanted something different for himself and his son Jeb, a freshman at Cornell, the sales agent suggested heritage tourism. The Rome package attracts ten million visitors per year. The tour group advances slowly: on each side of the road, a steady flow of visitors shuffles to and from the Colosseum. Street musicians are playing popular tunes. When the group passes a mime actor, one of the tour participants asks Jeb to take his picture: "I had one with Mickey. Now I want one with Caesar."

Tourists flock to the Trevi Fountain. Photo by Jeff Ackley - Unsplash.

8 | February 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Entertainment smaller.” The group climbs the stairs that lead to the Campidoglio. “Jeb, did you know this?” His father reads out from his travel guide: “Michelangelo used optical illusions such as the trapezium shape of the square and the pattern of lines.” Before the group turns off the Via dei Fori Imperiali, the guide halts. “For the younger guests, the tour offers a detective game in the Forum. It starts at 3pm sharp.” In Piazza Venezia, red double-deckers with national flags painted on both sides are humming. The tour guide explains that guests can choose from several tours: Ancient Rome, Baroque Rome and Papal Rome. “Dad, do you remember the traffic circle where you could choose between Adventure Land, Frontier Land and Tomorrow Land?” Jeb asks. “Let’s go our own way this time.” Father and son decide to explore Via del Corso, Rome’s high street. In the official Rome store, the father buys a T-shirt displaying “I heart Rome.” The duo follows the arrows that indicate the attractions. Every attraction goes with a compelling story or astonishing facts, and is surrounded by food and drink establishments. The Spanish Steps. Photo by Ilnur Kalimullin - Unsplash.

Under a Mediterranean sun the crowd rambles carelessly. Military jeeps block the road beside the Colosseum; a police car patrols the stretch up to the Capitol. At the entrance of the underground station, police officers are evacuating tall black Nubians and Indian-looking women wearing long, colourful skirts: citizens of distant Roman colonies? While some participants wonder whether Trajan's Markets once looked like the Forum Shops in Vegas, others are discussing tomorrow’s schedule in Florence. Yet everybody wants to see the main attraction: St Peter’s Basilica. Apparently, it is as imposing and white as the Castle of Sleeping Beauty. Jeb consults his smartphone: “In Main Street USA, Walt had the ground floors built to full scale and succeeding floors built proportionally

Halfway down Via del Corso, the giggling of children can be heard from a gelateria. Their T-shirts are smudged with green. They are taking an ice cream-making class and pistachio seems to be the favourite. For those children who do not like their self-made ice cream, there is Nutella. Meanwhile, the restaurant next door is offering the parents a class in pasta cooking. Visitor groups zoom by on Segways. Jeb and his father get on the shuttle bus. When the bus arrives at a vast square, all passengers alight. In the middle of the square, adults are riding a lion. They scream and throw water at each other. All the time, people are taking pictures. Jeb and his father take a back-alley. A penthouse offers the view from a famous scene of a Hollywood movie - “the VIP section of this tour allows you to visit the apartment.” Reading his travel guide, Jeb’s father remarks: “We’ve seen Trevi in Vegas, but Rome seems to have the original.” Wanted in Rome • February 2020 | 9

Entertainment In the pizzeria Il Simulacro, Jeb favours a traditional Four Seasons over the restaurant’s specialty, La Nutellaccia. “Dad, I’m so happy we did Rome. I’ve learnt a lot. More than my marketing books could ever teach me." “Marketing?” “I recognise every concept we studied,” Jeb continues. “For instance, didn’t you notice that museums and landmark sites have copied Disney’s queue management techniques?” Visiting St Peter's Square. Photo by Jairph - Unsplash.

Jeb has an idea. “Excuse me,” he asks a passerby, “could you please tell us where we can find this fountain?” He shows the man a picture on his smartphone. “It’s the Tod’s fountain.” “The Tod’s fountain? Are you sure?” the man asks puzzled. Jeb shows him the picture. “Oh, I see,” the man says. “È Trevi.” As father and son are approaching the Trevi Fountain, the streets become ever more crowded. All of a sudden, a water spectacle pops up in front of their eyes. In front of it, girls are pushing another aside to take the perfect selfie. Two of them get into a row. Jeb and his father are amazed. Can’t beat the real thing, can you? At 19.00 sharp, the tour offers a Private Experience: “Meet a large family who lives in a typical blue-collar neighbourhood and experience the warmth of everyday Roman life. Listen to their stories on how they struggle to get by. Become a local among locals.” Jeb’s father looks the neighbourhood up in his travel guide: “the solid working-class neighbourhood… a tight-knit community”. “So visitors expect each local to dress and behave as to confirm their expectations,” he wonders. Jeb and his father are starving. They head to Trastevere. In the cobblestoned streets, cosy restaurants alternate with slick wine shops. One of the bars has two old-timer Fiats on display. Amid all these places of leisure lie property agencies, their ads written in English. 10 | February 2020 • Wanted in Rome

“Yes, I have.” The father nods. “But this is authentic whereas Disney is staged.” “A former arena hosting cultural events of the highest order?” Noticing his father’s puzzlement, Jeb points at his T-shirt: “You see, cities are becoming brands. They have logos and position themselves in the market.” “Right.” “And now they are diversifying their offering by turning a nostalgic idea of urban life into a tourist experience,” Jeb argues passionately. “Take this.” The wall next to their table exhibits black-and-white ads of a famous coffee brand that evoke the hardship and closeness of postwar Italy. “How do these differ from the retro Coca Cola ads in Disneyland?” “The next thing will be charging visitors an entrance fee,” Jeb explains. “Cities will apply price differentiation: the fee will vary depending on the day and time of visit.” Back on Via dei Fori Imperiali, by now illuminated, a woman wearing a safari hat runs waving at Jeb and his father. She looks panicked. Jeb recognises the woman from the tour. “You were on the same tour as I was,” she says. “Remember? You do? Thank God!” She is almost out of breath. “These cast members don’t understand me. Do you know when Rome closes?” “What do you mean?” the father asks. “I am not staying in a hotel inside the park. I am outside, in the Sheraton,” she explains. “Do you know at what time Rome closes?”

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Poetry Opera

AnCiently modern mArtiAl A lAtin poet'S Wry obServAtionS of romAn SoCiety Still hAve relevAnCe in the modern City

s commentary forget Fodors or Lonely Planets’ made-to-order prose. Instead a rather sharper-eyed picture of Urbs Eterna is in the 14 books of Marcus Publius Martialis, aka Martial. His two-liner is spot-on to describe the mosaics in Rome’s Centrale Montemartini museum. ‘Thanks to Phidias’s art and limn these fish: Add water, they’ll start to swim’ From high culture to low, here’s what he has to say about the gift of a table:

Centrale Montemartini. Photo Turismo Roma.

12 | February 2020 • Wanted in Rome

martin bennett From munificent Atlas, here’s this work of cedarwood. Those who give gold spend more, yet the gift is not as good.’ Again, to tweak Book XIV, 89 for our televisual times, ‘Shake your money-maker, dancer from Cadiz: Put even chaste Hippolytus in a tizz.’ Yet Martial perfections of art, as captured above, are generally less interesting than the imperfections of his fellow Romans. Affording him a satirical edge perhaps, Martial was an expatriate from Bilbilis, Spain. For 34 years he

Poetry cast a now wry, now scurrilous, now affectionate eye on his adopted city. Having lived here 20 years this writer can vouch that his character types are alive and well. Leave rose-tinted spectacles behind in Ciampino’s left-luggage locker. Browse any newspaper’s Cronaca di Roma section, or Gente or Chi magazines; gaze around the nearest piazza, and you could match Latin names and professions with new equivalents. They’re all there, often spotlit by a single couplet. Selfiedom as a symptom of the strange disease of modern life? Here’s Martial 86 AD: ‘You’ve got the looks and the money:/ Who can deny it’s true?/ Except when you take it upon yourself to do/ the praising, they lose their value, all three.’ Swap toga for suit-and-tie, and candidates are still available for the caricature in Book V, 45: ‘‘Sono bello,” he boasts, and vigorous and youthful. If you say so, but anything but truthful. Double-take across the ages continues in: ‘Along his finger he sports six rings and never takes them off, even when sleeping Or in the bath. But why? All that bling costs. Without a jewel box, he’s on his last shilling.’ Practical warnings abound. Against dodgy restaurateurs ‘Bumpering the vendemmia, rain, rain, rain… Landlord deploys jars to store the same, in wine bibbers’ ignorance his gain on gain.’ Money, then as now, is a perpetual bugbear. Depicting stingy patron or regrettably recurrent type of 21st century employer, Epigram Bk III, 3 goes: ‘After 130 hours’ work I’m owed nothing? OK,/my error. The true debtors are those who intend to pay.’ Warnings, and also advice: ‘Of the great and good you beg peanuts and get not even that: Demand then a fortune as befits their status, and carry a big hat.’ Compacting tracts on politico-economics, micro or macro, is: ‘Anger for the rich means investment. Hate a) costs nothing and b) saves having to donate.’

Photo by Carlos Ibáñez - Unsplash.

True, the tone veers towards the obsessively negative. Mistreatment at the hands of patrons often becomes his muse, a way of turning the tables: ‘One of your goblets is engraved with serpents; it would be worthy of Michelangelo. A pity, though, about the contents: Part plonk, part poison, a snake’s hello.’ Byron remarks in his Don Juan: ‘What proper person could be partial To all the nauseous epigrams of Martial?’ That doesn’t stop him being the one Latin writer Byron took time to translate. Nor do Rome’s traditional hospitality and tolerance come without an acerbic streak of their own, what Yorkshire folk know as “Calling spade a spade”. Other writers about Rome can be equally unsparing, a possible factor in their enduring popularity: Belli, Trilussa and Pasolini continue from where Martial left off. In Martial’s case some of the ‘nauseousness’ might be attributed to the so-called ‘Fulmen in clausula’, our stand-up comic’s ‘punch-line’ or ‘sting in the tail’. ‘Sumptuous purple glows this bed-cover: So what when the spouse beneath has ceased to be a lover?’ quips one of his ‘Xenia’, the tags Martial would append (for payment, of course) to postprandial gifts to send off a patron’s guests. Again, modernity’s sake adding a variation: ‘Mario’s ear out-stinks cigarettes, gossip into it. That’s what gossip gets.’ Unpleasant, but also a strategy and sales technique, as Martial is happy to confess: ‘Rome praises, loves and recites my verse: It ends up in every toga, every hand. Wanted in Rome • February 2020 | 13

Poetry Opera In line with Martial’s (not unmerrily) misanthropic side is, in Tom Brown’s 17th-century translation-under-pressure-and-subsequentnursery-rhyme ‘I do not like thee, Doctor Fell, The reason why – I cannot tell; But this I know, and know full well, I do not like thee, Doctor Fell.’ Thus Martial fits all times, all places: ‘Dr Fell’ was the then dean of Christ Church, Oxford. He had threatened Brown, after a student infraction, with rustication unless he could translate Martial’s Latin on the spot. Then Martial, past-master of versatility, in another epigram switches to consummate and amicable praise: ‘To tend Virgil’s ashes and his sacred name only one remained, ignored, unpaid. Silius aided the shade of shades; no mean poet himself, he kept the flame.’

Photo by Josh Hild - Unsplash.

Another, mourning a servant’s death, displays a touching empathy Byron himself might have envied: ‘Spare, insensate clods, her tender bones. Clay, weigh gently on her as she weighed on you.’

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Readers may blush, turn pale, curse; Now I’m content. That’s what I had planned.’ Epigram IX, 81 continues the argument: ‘They go down well with readers and listeners, my books. It’s only a fellow poet who gets pernickety. I don’t give a fig. When it comes to delicacies, better to please the trenchermen than rival cooks.’ As regards literary in-fighting Martial more than holds his ground. ‘Poets to incur your praises, Vacerra, must be ancient, or failing that, deceased: My apologies to the executioner for intending to live a little longer.’ In Bk VIII, 69 barbs or fulmini are fired left, right and centre, waspishness as play. This, mirroring many a poetry workshop: ‘He’d best not read out his work if he wants to be called ‘Poet’: Reciting nothing, he could be, for all we know, a Nobel Laureate.’ 14 | February 2020 • Wanted in Rome

For more evidence of Martial’s range, consult the index of Carcopino’s Daily Life in Ancient Rome. Friend and contemporary Juvenal running him close second, almost a full page of entries flits from ‘muddy streets’ to ‘unpleasant manners’, from ‘wastrel sons’ to ‘mixed bathing.’ Enough human activity, in fact, to prevent gods and heroes, that staple of classical poetry, getting a look in. Pliny the Younger, generously footing the bill for the poet’s final return to Spain, opined that Martial’s books would be forgotten. Martial has the last laugh. Something of a curmudgeon and provocateur, nevertheless he’s on the favourable side of posterity. Surely only someone with their heart in the right place could have come up with this? ‘Wine €4, munchies 50 cents. Now he has nothing – Ploughboy out on the town, as happy as a king.’ All these translations are by Martin Bennett, some having previously appeared in Cyphers (Dublin), Stand magazine and in Arion (University of Boston).

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SKIING NEAR ROME

The mountains in central Italy offer skiers in Rome a closer alternative to the Alps

here are many skiing resorts within an easy drive of Rome along the Apennines in Lazio and Abruzzo. Before setting off, check all resort websites for avalanche warnings and snow conditions.

Campocatino

This relatively small ski resort is one of the oldest in the Apennines and is located in the province of Frosinone, about 100 km southeast of Rome. It has 12 km of slopes, located in a karst valley at 1,800 m. It has a chairlift and three ski lifts. The Canalino and the Vermicano slopes are connected and form a good slope of 1,500 m. www.campocatino.eu.

Campo di Giove

Campo di Giove is on the western slope of the Majella natural park in Abruzzo, about 170 km from Rome. A chair lift and a ski lift take skiers up to about 1,800 m. Two bars / restaurants are located along the way. The numerous slopes are of different levels: the Serra Campanile is easy and suitable for kids, the Le Capre, Pareti Rosse and Delle Signore are of medium difficulty, while the Porrara is one of the most fascinating and challenging black runs in the Apennines. There are two school camps, served by conveyor lifts, where children are introduced to skiing and snowboarding. There is also a snow park, a snow playground for young skiers called Kinder Park Giovilandia, and a synthetic ice skating rink open throughout the year. www.comunecampodigiove.it.

Campo Felice

Campo Felice is in the central Apennines of Abruzzo, located within the Sirente-Velino regional natural park, about 113 km from Rome. This ski resort is part of the Tre Nevi area, along with Ovindoli and Campo Imperatore, and is one of the favourite destinations for Romans. It offers 30 km of Alpine skiing of various levels, served by about 10 chair-lifts and several drag lifts for children, which can carry up to 18,000 skiers per hour and guarantee quick access to the slopes. A modern snowmaking system with 250 artificial snow cannons cover over 16 kms. A must for snowboarders is the Swup Snowpark with its jumps and breathtaking passages. www.campofelice.it.

16 | February 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Campo Imperatore

Campo Imperatore was the first ski resort to be developed in the Apennines. It is on the Gran Sasso mountain about 120 km from Rome and at 2,200 m is one of the highest in Italy. A cableway takes skiers from Fonte Cerreto to Campo Imperatore and two chair lifts take them to five panoramic slopes. It offers 15 km of Alpine skiing and 60 km of Nordic skiing. There is also a snow park with half-pipe and boarder cross slopes for snowboarders. www.ilgransasso.it.

Campo Staffi

Campo Staffi is located in Filettino, 100 km from Rome. Its facilities include two chair lifts, three ski lifts and one manovia, which take skiers to 1,500-2,000 m. A 10-km long path is available for lovers of cross-country skiing. A shuttle service connects Filettino to the nearby villages. www.campostaffi.it.

Monte Livata

The Alpine skiing areas of Monte Livata, located about 75 km east of Rome, include Campo Minio and Monna dell’Orso. The slopes, which run from Fossa dell’Acero to Campo dell’Osso, are famous for cross-country skiing and are particularly suitable for families. Three drag lifts take skiers to the top of the mountain, from where they can choose an Alpine skiing descent or a snowboarding and tubing track. The traditional cross-skiing circuit goes from Campo dell’Osso to Campaegli. www.livata.com.

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Ovindoli

Ovindoli is located between Rome and L’Aquila in Abruzzo, about 130 km from the capital in the Sirente-Velino regional natural park. Some of the longest cross-country skiing slopes in central Italy are in the Altopiano delle Rocche which connects Ovindoli with Rocca di Mezzo. The Magnola mountain (1,400-2,220 m), offers 30 km of Alpine skiing, served by modern and efficient lifts. The slopes in the Tre Nevi ski area are of all levels and there are some challenging black runs. There is the Magnola upper park (1,980 m) as well as the lower park, located along the Dolce Vita slope (1,650 m). Ovindoli also has a very efficient snowmaking system, which perfect artificial snow even when natural snow is lacking. www.ovindolimagnola.it.

Pescasseroli

Located in the heart of the Abruzzo national park about 160 km from Rome, this resort offers 20-km of skiing, divided in 14 slopes for all abilities, including two difficult black runs, six red or intermediate slopes and six blue or easy ones for beginners. The 100-km long slope of Alto Sangro crosses the municipalities of Pescasseroli, Pescocostanzo, Aremogna, Pizzalto and Monte Pratello. The resort has three chair lifts and two ski lifts. www.sciareapescasseroli.it.

Roccaraso

Terminillo

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Wanted in Rome • February 2020 | 17

to do

Mon Tue Wed Thu 3

St Stephen’s School holds a reading by former UK Poet Laureate Carol Ann Duffy and prize-winning poet Ella Duffy at 19.00.

Be inspired by the Celebrate the centenary discussion of Milanese of Fellini by retracing architect and designer the Roman scenes of his films. Hannes Peer at the Baths of Diocletian.

6 Catch New York performance artist Edgar Oliver at the English Theatre near Piazza Navona.

Let Carnevale be the perfect excuse to try some Roscioli castagnole.

Discover American artist Jim Dine across 60 works at Palazzo delle Esposizioni.

Make a day trip to Urbino, birthplace of Raphael who died 500 years ago this year.

Marvel at an El Greco masterpiece, in Italy for the first time, at Palazzo Rhinoceros.

ART MUSIC FOOD NATURE CINEMA FAMILY THEATRE

Drop by the Fondazione Giuliani in Testaccio to see the Esther Kläs exhibition.

Explore MAXXI’s show dedicated to celebrated Italian architect Gio Ponti.

Learn about the powerful ancient city of Carthage with an exhibition at the Forum.

Rembrandt’s Self-Portrait of St Paul goes on display today at Galleria Corsini.

Meet friends for a typical Roman aperitivo at Trastevere hotspot Freni e Frizioni.

Join the crowd at Piazza del Popolo to watch the colourful carnival parade kick off.

Attend a Papal Mass for Ash Wednesday at St Peter's.

Become part of the performance of Ingri Fiksdal’s Shadows of Tomorrow at Teatro India.

Photo by Moshe Schneider on Unsplash

February Sat Sun 2020

Fri 7 Immerse yourself in the films of Japanese animation master Hayao Miyazaki at I.C. Regina Margherita in Trastevere.

Don’t miss the chance to see popular musical We Will Rock You at Teatro Brancaccio.

Rome’s state museums and archaeological sites are open for free today.

Check out Set Up, the music and performance art event at Punta della Dogana.

For St Valentine’s Day take a day trip to Terni for the popular Cioccolentino festival.

Bring a date to see Liam Gallagher perform at the Palazzo dello Sport.

Make a food-filled pilgrimage to Testaccio Market.

Cheer on the rugby players of Scotland and Italy in the Six Nations at Stadio Olimpico.

Have a laugh with standup in English thanks to Rome’s Comedy Club.

Catch a performance of Eugene Onegin at Teatro dell’Opera di Roma.

Cheese fans should check out Formaticum, with tasting booths and seminars, at WeGil.

Visit the French Academy at Villa Medici for the exhibition A Modern Antiquity.

23 Walk among masterpieces by Bernini and Caravaggio at Galleria Borghese.

EGYPTIAN ACADEMY The Egyptian Academy brings Arabian, Egyptian and African culture and art to Italy. Via Omero 4, tel. 063201896, www.accademiaegitto.org. FRENCH ACADEMY The French Academy at Villa Medici hosts artists from France and provides exhibitions and festivals throughout the year. Viale Trinità dei Monti 1, tel. 066761305, www.villamedici.it. GERMAN ACADEMY The German Academy offers German artists, writers, musicians and architects the opportunity to study in Rome. Largo di Villa Massimo 1, tel. 064425931, www.deutsche-kultur-international.de. GERMAN HISTORICAL INSTITUTE This institute conducts research into the history of Germany and Italy, in particular the relations between both countries. Via Aurelia Antica 391, tel. 066604921, www.dhi-roma.it. GOETHE INSTITUT The Goethe Institut promotes education in Italy about German culture, language and history. Via Savoia 15, tel. 068440051, www.goethe.de. HUNGARIAN ACADEMY The Academy of Hungary in Rome hosts concerts, literary events and exhibitions by Hungarian artists and scholars. Via Giulia 1, tel. 066889671, www.roma.balassiintezet.hu.

KOREAN CULTURAL INSTITUTE The Korean Cultural Institute promotes Korean culture in Italy and periodically offers cultural events, concerts, art exhibitions and courses ranging from Korean language to cuisine. Via Nomentana 12, tel. 06441633, www.culturacorea.it. NORWEGIAN INSTITUTE The Norwegian Institute in Rome offers undergraduate and graduate courses in art history, ancient studies and Italian. Viale 30 Aprile 33, tel. 0658391007, www.hf.uio.no. POLISH CULTURAL INSTITUTE Institution dedicated to Polish history and culture as well as the promotion of dialogue between Poland and Italy. Via Vittoria Colonna 1, tel. 0636000723,www.istitutopolacco.it. POLISH ACADEMY OF SCIENCE The Polish Academy is a research centre for the humanities and a scientific exchange between Poland and Italy. Vicolo Doria 2, tel. 066792170, www.accademiapolacca.it. ROMANIAN ACADEMY The Romanian Academy hosts events and promotes cultural relations between Romania and Italy. Piazza Josè di S. Martin 1, tel. 063201594, www.accadromania.it. RUSSIAN INSTITUTE OF CULTURE AND LANGUAGE The Russian Institute provides classes in Russian language and culture. Via Farini 62, tel. 064870137.

INSTITUTO CERVANTES Instituto Cervantes is a cultural institution created to promote the teaching of Spanish language and culture. Via di Villa Albani 16, tel. 068551949, www.cervantes.es.

SPANISH ACADEMY The Spanish Academy hosts artists in many fields of study and holds events that provide a cultural bridge between Spain and Italy. Piazza S. Pietro in Montorio 3, tel. 065818607, www.raer.it.

ITALIAN INSTITUTE FOR LATIN AMERICA The Italo-Latin American Institute facilitates research into the cultural, scientific, economic and social aspects of Italy and Latin American countries. Via Giovanni Paisiello 24, tel. 06684921, www.iila.org.

SWEDISH INSTITUTE OF CLASSICAL STUDIES The Swedish Institute is a research centre dedicated to scientific research in art and archaeology. Via Omero 14, tel. 063201596, www.isvroma.it.

JAPANESE CULTURAL INSTITUTE The Japanese Cultural Institute hosts hosts regular cultural events and also offers courses in Japanese. Via Gramsci 74, tel. 063224754, www.jfroma.it. KEATS-SHELLEY MEMORIAL HOUSE Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235,www.keats-shelley-house.it.

SWISS INSTITUTE The Swiss Institute offers exhibitions, events and classes dedicated to the culture of Switzerland. Via Ludovisi 48, tel. 064814234, www.istitutosvizzero.it.

ROME'S MAJOR

MUSEUMS VATICAN MUSEUMS Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums

Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

STATE MUSEUMS Baths of Diocletian

Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Borghese Museum

Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

22 | February 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Crypta Balbi

Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's modern art collection. Mon closed.

MAXXI

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS Casa di Goethe

CITY MUSEUMS

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Centrale Montemartini

Chiostro Del Bramante

Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun.

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Galleria Colonna

Capitoline Museums

Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

MACRO Asilo

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space until the end of 2019. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.

MATTATOIO

Giorgio de Chirico House Museum

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking.

Keats-Shelley House

Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking.

Museo storico della Liberazione

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it. Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from 1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.

Museo Canonica

MUSJA

Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).

Museo Napoleonico

Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.

Privately owned museum dedicated to modern and contemporary Italian and international art. Via dei Chiavari 7, tel. 0668210213, www.musja.it.

Palazzo Merulana

Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it. Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection, including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation. 09.00-20.00. Tues closed.

Wanted in Rome • February 2020 | 23

MA in ART HISTORY in ROME

ROME'S MAJOR

A 15-MONTH AMERICAN MUSEUMS GRADUATE DEGREE PROGRAM VATICAN MUSEUMS Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums

Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

STATE MUSEUMS Baths of Diocletian

Borghese Museum

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

24 | February 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Crypta Balbi

IN THE ETERNAL CITY

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

MAXXI

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

www.johncabot.edu/arthistoryma graduateadmissions@johncabot.edu

T Y E

N M Y

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS Casa di Goethe

CITY MUSEUMS

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Centrale Montemartini

Chiostro Del Bramante

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Galleria Colonna

Capitoline Museums

Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

MACRO Asilo

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space until the end of 2019. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.

MATTATOIO

Giorgio de Chirico House Museum

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Keats-Shelley House

Museo storico della Liberazione

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Museo Canonica

MUSJA

Museo Napoleonico

Privately owned museum dedicated to modern and contemporary Italian and international art. Via dei Chiavari 7, tel. 0668210213, www.musja.it.

Palazzo Merulana

Wanted in Rome • February 2020 | 25

ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY

ART GALLERIES

1/9 Unosunove

1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.

A.A.M. Architettura

Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ff-maam.it.

Contemporary Cluster

Visual art, design, architecture, fashion design and beauty apothecary in a 17th-century palace. Via dei Barbieri 7, tel. 0668805928, www.contemporarycluster.com.

C.R.E.T.A.

Cultural association promoting ceramics and the visual, humanistic, musical and culinary arts through workshops, exhibitions and artist residencies. Palazzo Delfini, Via dei Delfini 17, tel. 0689827701, www.cretarome.com.

Dorothy Circus Gallery

Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.

Ex Elettrofonica

This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.

Fondazione Memmo

Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.

Fondazione Pastificio Cerere

This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pastificiocerere.com.

Fondazione Volume!

The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.

26 | February 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Franz Paludetto

Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.

Frutta

This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via dei Salumi 53 tel. 0645508934, www.fruttagallery.com.

Gagosian Gallery

The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

GALLA

Exhibition space designed to showcase original, unconventional art works at affordable prices by artists working in various fields. Via degli Zingari 28, tel. 3476552515, www.facebook.com/GALLAmonti.

Galleria Alessandro Bonomo

Gallery showing the works of important Italian and international visual artists. Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858, www.bonomogallery.com.

Galleria Valentina Bonomo

Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works specifically for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte

Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Galleria della Tartaruga

Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.

Galleria Il Segno

Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.

Galleria Mucciaccia

Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.

Galleria Russo

Operativa Arte Contemporanea

A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.

Pian de Giullari

This historic gallery holds group and solo exhibitions showcasing the work of major 20th-century Italian painters alongside promising new Italian artists. Via Alibert 20, tel. 066789949, www.galleriarusso.it.

Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.

Galleria Varsi

Plus Arte Puls

A dynamic gallery near Campo deâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di Grotta Pinta 38, tel. 066865415, www.galleriavarsi.it.

Gavin Brown's Enterprise

New York gallerist Gavin Brown shows the work of international artists at his Trastevere gallery in a deconsecrated church dating to the eighth century. S. Andrea de Scaphis, Via dei Vascellari 69, www.gavinbrown.biz.

Il Ponte Contemporanea

Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls.com.

RvB ARTS

Rome-based gallery specialising in affordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www.rvbarts.com.

Sala 1

Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via Giuseppe Acerbi 31A, tel. 0653098768, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.

This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.

La Nuova Pesa

S.T. Foto libreria galleria

Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.

Magazzino dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Arte Moderna

Contemporary art gallery that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.

Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri

The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.

T293

Monitor

The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it.

Nero Gallery

The Gallery Apart

Space dedicated to showcasing young international artists working in pop surrealism, lowbrow art, dark art, comic art and surrealism. Via Castruccio Castracane 9, tel. 0627801418, www.nerogallery.com.

This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.

Nomas Foundation

TraleVolte

This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, tel. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.

Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.

Contemporary art gallery focusing on the relationship between art and architecture, hosting solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org.

White Noise Gallery

Based in the S. Lorenzo district, this gallery exhibits unconventional work by young Italian and international artists. Via della Seggiola 9, tel. 066832833, www.whitenoisegallery.it.

Wunderkammern

This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www.wunderkammern.net.

Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin

Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria offers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it. Wanted in Rome â&#x20AC;˘ February 2020 | 27

where to go in Rome WHAT’S ON

How Far, How Near, detail of Alice Pasquini mural at the Farnesina. See Art News page 42.

Wanted in Rome • February 2020 | 29

FESTIVALS

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EXHIBITIONS

GREY Magazine. This collective exhibition features internationallyrenowned photographers such as Billy Kidd, Caitlin Cronenberg and Laurent Chehere alongside rising stars of the Italian photography scene such as Giuseppe Gradella and emerging talents such as Karel Chladek, Peppe Tortora and Iness Rychlik. See cover this edition. Dorothy Circus Gallery, Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.

JIM DINE

11 Feb-2 June

Palazzo delle Esposizioni pays tribute to Jim Dine, the American exponent of Pop Art and the NeoDada movement, with an exhibition of around 80 works created between 1959 and 2016. The show also includes the works donated to the Centre George Pompidou by Dine who was elected as an academician by Rome’s prestigious Accademia Nazionale di S. Luca in 2018. Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Via Nazionale 194, tel. 06696271, www.palazzoesposizioni.it.

GABRIELE BASILICO: METROPOLI 25 Jan-13 April

Rembrandt’s Self-Portrait as St Paul at Galleria Corsini.

REMBRANDT AT GALLERIA CORSINI 20 Feb-15 June

Galleria Corsini will showcase Rembrandt’s Self Portrait as St Paul, in an historic return for the masterpiece which has not been seen in Rome for 220 years. The painting, on loan from the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam, originally belonged to the noble Corsini family but was sold to art dealers – apparently without the knowledge of Prince Tomasso Corsini – during the French occupation of 1799. The exhibition

will also host a selection of engravings by Rembrandt from the Corsini collection. Galleria Corsini, Via della Lungara 10, tel. 0668802323, www. barberinicorsini.org.

WHAT I’VE SEEN SO FAR 15 FEB -15 MARCH

Dorothy Circus Gallery, which has long specialised in painting and sculpture in their various forms, celebrates a new departure with a special photographic project entitled Grey Circus, co-curated by Dorothy Circus Gallery founder Alexandra Mazzanti and Valentina Ilardi of

Devoted to a master in the field of Italian and international photography, an exhibition at MAXXI will focus on the theme of the city, showcasing approximately 270 photographs ranging from the 1960s to the 2000s. Man-made landscapes and the constantly evolving nature of cities were central themes in the work of Basilico who died in his native Milan in 2013. In addition to Italian cities, the exhibition will show images taken by Basilico in cities around the world, including Beirut, Buenos Aires, Jerusalem, Tel Aviv, Istanbul, Rio de Janeiro, Moscow, New York and Shanghai. MAXXI Via Guido Reni 4A, www. maxxi.art.

CONVERSATION PIECE: PART VI 15 Jan-22 March

Under the title Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, doesn’t Wanted in Rome • February 2020 | 31

Join us on Your Journey

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L L NG OO OO NI CH AR CH M S S LE RA Y -5 RY GH RL S 2 TA OG HI EA E EN -11 D PR AG EM 6 AN 8 IB S EL E LE -1 NG 2 AG IDD S 11 DI - 1 IES RK AN 11 SIT WO M E R T AG TST ES D VE NE OU A NI L GR P U BA O TO GL A

Via di Villa Lauchli 180 00191 Rome, Italy +39 06 362 91012 www.marymountrome.com admissions@marymountrome.com

go away, Fondazione Memmo presents Conversation Piece | Part VI, the latest installment in its cycle of exhibitions dedicated to Italian and foreign contemporary artists many of whom are working temporarily at Rome’s cultural academies. The exhibiting artists are Corinna Gosmaro (American Academy in Rome), Philippe Rahm (architect, former fellow at the French Academy - Villa Medici and currently residing in Rome) and Rolf Sachs (Swiss artist and designer who recently established a studio in Rome). Via Fontanella Borghese 56/b, www.fondazionememmo.it.

with the Russian museum. Dating from between 1587 and 1592, the painting is one of several versions of the theme by the artist, with others held in collections in Barcelona and Stockholm. The arrival of the El Greco masterpiece in Rome follows the display of Michelangelo’s Crouching Boy in 2018 which saw Palazzo Rhinoceros welcome 22,000 visitors. Alda Fendi said the works are shown for free as she believes that “culture is the heritage of humanity.” For visiting details see Palazzo Rhinoceros website, www. fondazionealdafendi-esperimenti.it.

I LOVE LEGO

C’ERA UNA VOLTA SERGIO LEONE

24 Dec-19 April

Palazzo Bonaparte, Rome’s new exhibition venue in Piazza Venezia, presents an “exhibition for children of all ages.” The colourful show features minutelyreproduced scenes, covering dozens of square metres, made using the most famous bricks in the world. The show takes place concurrently with the Secret Impressionists exhibition. Palazzo Bonaparte, Piazza Venezia 5, www.mostrepalazzobonaparte.it.

CIVIS CIVITAS CIVILTAS 21 Dec-6 Sept

Plaster models document the buildings of ancient Rome in an exhibition that explores the “relationship between city, citizenship and civilization in the Roman world.” The models, which number more than 60, were built mainly by Italo Gismondi for the 1937 Augustan Exhibition of Romanity. Mercati di Traiano, Via 4 Novembre, www.mercatiditraiano.it.

EL GRECO

14 Dec-15 March

A painting by El Greco, portraying Rome’s patron saints Peter and Paul, comes to Italy for the first time thanks to the city’s Fondazione Aldi Fendi Esperimenti. The painting by the Spanish master, on loan from the Hermitage in St Petersburg, is on display for free until 15 March as part of a three-year agreement

17 Dec-3 May

Rome pays tribute to the celebrated Italian film director, producer and screenwriter Sergio Leone (19291989) with an exhibition at the Ara Pacis museum. Known primarily for popularising the Spaghetti Western genre with films such as The Good, The Bad and The Ugly and Once Upon a Time in the West, Leone is also credited with influencing a new generation of directors, notably Quentin Tarantino. Organised by the Cineteca di Bologna, produced and curated in collaboration with the Cinémathèque Française and the Istituto Luce Cinecittà, the “multisensory exhibition” offers insights into Leone’s cult films as well as his personal and professional life. Museo dell’Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta, tel. 060608, www.arapacis.it.

CARLO LEVI E L’ARTE DELLA POLITICA 29 Nov-22 March

Under the title Carlo Levi and the art of politics, this exhibition highlights Levi’s multi-faceted personality, from literature to poetry, from painting to drawing, with a particular focus on his political illustrations from the late 1940s. The exhibition features about 30 paintings, 58 political cartoons and 46 drawings by Levi who is best known for his 1945 memoir Christ Stopped at Eboli, an account of his exile in southern Italy from

Jim Dine at Palazzo delle Esposizioni. Putney Winter Heart (Crazy Leon), 1971-1972. ©Yves Bresson, Musée d’art moderne et contemporain de Saint-Etienne Métropole.

1935-1936. Casino dei Principi, Musei di Villa Torlonia, Via Nomentana 70, tel. 060608, www. museivillatorlonia.it.

LA RIVOLUZIONE DELLA VISIONE 28 Nov-15 March

With the subtitle Towards the Bauhaus: Moholy-Nagy and his Hungarian contemporaries, this exhibition at Rome’s municipal gallery is dedicated to the art and memory of László Moholy-Nagy, a Hungarian artist and a key figure in the Bauhaus movement, on the 125th anniversary of his birth. On display is a selection of paintings, photographs and prints as well as three films by the artist, spanning his career from the 1910s to the 1940s. The exhibition also comprises a section of paintings and sculptures by Hungarian avantgarde artists, both Expressionist and Bauhaus, most of which have never been shown before in Italy. Galleria d’Arte Moderna, Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.galleriaartemodernaroma.it.

GIO PONTI: LOVING ARCHITECTURE 27 Nov-13 April

MAXXI celebrates the career of Gio Ponti (1891-1979), the acclaimed Italian architect, industrial designer, art director, writer, critic and artist, Wanted in Rome • February 2020 | 33

ON THE SPIRITUAL MATTER OF ART 17 Oct-8 March

What I've Seen So Far at Dorothy Circus Gallery. Anka Zhuravleva.

with a major retrospective 40 years after his death. A focal point of the exhibition is Ponti’s versatility in relation to his designs, from everyday household objects to the realisation of complex architectural projects such as the Pirelli skyscraper in Milan and the cathedral in Taranto. The exhibition presents archive materials, models, photographs, books, magazine and objects providing insights into a remarkable Italian architect whose legacy can be seen in important buildings around the world. MAXXI, Via Guido Reni 4A, www.maxxi.art.

to pre-Islamic ages, followed by the early, medium and late Arab civilisations, the Islamic and medium Islamic eras, up to the establishment of the Saudi state in 1932. Baths of Diocletian, Via delle Terme di Diocleziano, tel. 06480201, www.museonazionaleromano. beniculturali.it.

An exhibition at MAXXI of work by leading international artists from diverse backgrounds and cultures asks: “What does it mean today to talk about spirituality?” The show is the result of a project that investigates spirituality through the lens of contemporary art and, at the same time, that of the ancient history of Rome, thanks to a selection of archaeological relics on loan from the Vatican Museums, the National Roman Museum, the Capitoline Museums and the National Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia. The artists whose work is exhibited include Francesco Clemente, Jimmie Durham, Yoko Ono and Sean Scully. MAXXI, Via Guido Reni 4A, www.maxxi.art.

MO(NU)MENTUM: ROBERT MORRIS 2015 - 2018 15 Oct-1 MARCH

The Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna holds the first Robert Morris show since the death of the American artist in November 2018. Best known as a founding member

ROADS OF ARABIA 27 Nov-1 March

Under the title Masterpieces of Antiquities in Saudi Arabia Across the Ages, this travelling exhibition comes to Rome after touring museums in Asia, Europe and the US. The exhibition, organised by the Saudi Commission for Tourism and National Heritage, is dedicated to the civil and cultural heritage of the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia and the Arabian Peninsula dating back to ancient times. The exhibition includes more than 450 rare archaeological pieces spanning the eras between the Paleolithic era (around one million year BC)

34 | February 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Gabriele Basilico at Palazzo delle Esposizioni. Milano Porta Nuova, 2012. ©Archivio Gabriele Basilico.

and leading exponent of American Minimalism, Morris was involved in various other movements such as Land art over the course of his 60year career. The works on display in Rome were produced in the final years of his life and have never been shown in Europe. The sculptures of human figures belong to the series MOLTINGSEXOSKELETONSSHROUDS, made of Belgian linen soaked in resin and placed over models to take on their form, and Boustrophedons, made from carbon fibre. Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, www. gallerianazionale.com.

JAN FABRE: THE RYTHYM OF THE BRAIN 11 Oct-23 Feb

Palazzo Merulana stages an exhibition of work by the multidisciplinary Belgian artist Jan Fabre, featuring site-specific sculptures as well as drawings and performance film, displayed among the museum’s 20th-century Italian paintings. Palazzo Merulana, Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it.

El Greco’s SS. Pietro e Paolo at Palazzo Rhinoceros.

CANOVA: ETERNA BELLEZZA 9 Oct-15 March

Palazzo Braschi stages an exhibition of works by Italian neoclassical sculptor Antonio Canova (17571822), regarded by many as the

greatest of the neoclassical artists. Canova is best known for his magnificent marble sculptures such as Amore e Psiche, Tre Grazie and Paolina Borghese. The exhibition includes more than 170 works by Canova and his contemporaries.

Clint Eastwood poster for Sergio Leone exhibition at the Ara Pacis.

Wanted in Rome • February 2020 | 35

and the Roman Forum. On display are precious artefacts as well as reconstructions and multimedia installations, highlighting a series of historical events that unite the two great powers of the ancient world. For details see www. parcocolosseo.it.

LA SCUOLA DI LONDRA: OPERE DELLA TATE 26 Sept-23 Feb

Moholy-Nagy László at Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna. Modulatore spaziale, 1945.

Due to high demand, the show can be visited on Saturdays and Sundays until 22.00 (last entry at 21.00). Piazza Navona 2, tel. 060608, www.museodiroma.it.

THE DARK SIDE 8 Oct-1 March

Musja, the new private museum in central Rome, launched a trilogy of exhibitions entitled The Dark Side, with Who is afraid of the dark? featuring large sitespecific installations and works by 13 important international artists including Gregor Schneider, Robert Longo, Hermann Nitsch, Tony Oursler, Monster Chetwynd, Christian Boltanski and Gino De Dominicis. Musja, Via dei Chiavari 7, tel. 0668210213, www.musja.it.

CARTHAGO: THE IMMORTAL MYTH 27 Sept-29 March

The history and culture of Carthage, one of the most powerful cities of the ancient Mediterranean, is celebrated with a large-scale exhibition at the Colosseum, the Temple of Romulus

Chiostro del Bramante hosts a major exhibition dedicated to the School of London, featuring paintings by Lucian Freud and Francis Bacon, organised in collaboration with the Tate Britain in London. The exhibition comprises 45 paintings, drawings and engravings by six artists: Michael Andrews, Frank Auerbach, Leon Kossoff and Paula Rego, in addition to Freud and Bacon. The figurative works span more than seven decades, from 1945 until 2004. Chiostro del Bramante, Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it. See other exhibitions on our website www.wantedinrome.com.

SECRET IMPRESSIONISTS 6 Oct-8 March

Palazzo Bonaparte, a major new exhibition space located where Via del Corso meets Piazza Venezia, holds an exhibition comprising more than 50 works from important private collections. The works, mostly never shown in public before, are by Monet, Renoir, Cézanne, Pissarro, Sisley, Morisot, Gauguin and Signac. Palazzo Bonaparte, Piazza Venezia 5, www.palazzobonaparte.it.

36 | February 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Final few weeks to see the Canova show at Palazzo Braschi.

Tan Dun's Buddha Passion will have its Italian premiere at the Accademia S. Cecilia on 6-8 February.

Meditation and Liszt’s sonata in B minor, which was completed in 1854 and dedicated to Robert Schumann. Teatro Argentina, Largo Argentina, www.filarmonicaromana.org.

ALLA RICERCA DI ORFEO 5 March

CLASSICAL ROME ACCADEMIA FILARMONICA ROMANA BELCEA QUARTET 6 Feb

The Belcea Quartet plays two of Beethoven’s quartets as part of the Filarmonica’s exploration of all Beethoven’s string quartets. The Belcea was founded as part of the Royal College of Music in the 1980s and has recorded the complete Beethoven string quartets. The Beclea will perform two works, the first of the three string quartets (F major) from the Razumovsky period (1806), which were commissioned by the Russian ambassador in Vienna, Prince Razumovsky. The other was the first of Beethoven’s later period and was completed in 1825. Teatro Argentina, Largo Argentina, www. filarmonicaromana.org.

MARCEL PROUST E LA MUSICA 13 Feb

Music that inspired Proust’s Swan’s Way, with three Italian musicians (Marco Rizzi violin, Giovanni Gnocchi cello and Roberto Cominati piano) performing works by Chopin, Debussy, Faure, Franck, Hahn and Sain-Saëns. There will also be readings from A la

recerche du temps perdu. Teatro Argentina, Largo Argentina, www. filarmonicaromana.org.

JERUSALEM QUARTET 20 Feb

Two more of Beethoven quartets (E minor and A minor) will be played by the two violins, viola and cello of the Israeli Jerusalem Quartet. This concert continues the Filarmonica’s exploration of all Beethoven’s quartets. The E Minor Quartet (opus 59) is part of the Razumovsky cycle. The A minor quartet (opus 132) was first performed in 1825 and was dedicated to Count Nicolai Galitzin. Teatro Argentina, Largo Argentina, www.filarmonicaromana.org.

QUARTETTO LYSKAMM 24 Feb

The Quartetto Lyskamm, which is in residence at the Filarmonica this season, plays music by Beethoven, Lorusso and Bartok. Giulia Lorusso is a young Italian composer, born in Rome, and the Milan-based Lyskamm Quartet will play her piece In Superficie, composed in 2008. Sala Casella, Via Flaminia 118, www.filarmonicaromana.org.

DENIS MATSUEV 27 Feb

Pianist Denis Matsuev plays Tchaikovsky’s The Seasons and

The Astree Ensemble, from Turin which specialises in 17th- and 18thcentury music, explores passages dedicated to Orpheus from classical literature to the present, with the voice of Laura Torelli reciting poetry from Ovid to Carol Ann Duffy, and with the ensemble performing music from Monteverdi to Berio. Teatro Argentina, Largo Argentina, www.filarmonicaromana.org.

ACCADEMIA S. CECILIA ALEXANDER MALOFEEV SUSANNA MALKKI 30 Jan-1 Feb

The Finnish conductor Susanna Malkki leads the 18-year-old Russian pianist and S. Cecilia orchestra playing Tchaikovsky’s piano concerto no 1, as well as music by the Finnish composer Lotta Wennokoski and Bartok. Wennokoski started her career by composing music for radio plays and short films. Flounce, a short, fast-paced and dramatic piece, which was commissioned by the BBC as the contemporary composition for the Last Night of the Proms in 2017, will be played in this programme. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

ARCADI VOLODOS IN RECITAL 3 Feb

Arcadi Volodos plays four pieces by Liszt, including his music for Petrarch’s Sonnet 123, and Schumann’s Bunte Blätter (or Colourful Leaves) a collection of short pieces. Sala S. Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com. Wanted in Rome • February 2020 | 37

BUDDHA PASSION TAN DUN 6-8 Feb

Tan Dun conducts his work Buddha Passion in its Italian premiere with Sen Guo soprano, Kang Wang tenor and Shenyang baritone and the S. Cecilia orchestra and chorus. The original inspiration for Dun’s work came from Bhuddist manuscripts and murals found in the Magoa Caves in western China, which span 1,000 years of Bhuddist art. Dun combines eastern and western musical traditions, classical and contemporary. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

HAYDN 2032 NEL GUSTO PARIGINO 12 Feb

Riccardo Chailly conducts Canadian pianist Jan Lisecki at S. Cecilia on 24 February.

with Ekaterina Semenchuk mezzosoprano. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

The Klammerorchester Basel, conducted by Giovanni Antonini, plays four of Haydn’s symphonies, 24, 87, 2 and 82. All of Haydn’s syphonies will be performed and recorded before the 300th anniversary of the composer’s birth in 2032 as part of a project organised by the Joseph Haydn Foundation in Basel and its artistic director and conductor Giovanni Antonini. The citites of Basel, Paris and Rome have signed up to host the concerts and recordings, which started in 2014. Sala Sinopoli, Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

RICCARDO CHAILLY JAN LISIECKI

LEONIDAS KAVAKOS GIANANDREA NOSEDA

27-29 Feb

13-15 Feb

Gianandrea Noseda conducts Lenonidas Kavakos with the S. Cecilia orchestra performing Beethoven’s violin concerto in D major and Tchaikovsky’s symphony no 3. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

DANIELE GATTI 20-22 Feb

Daniele Gatti conducts the S. Cecilia orchestra and chorus performing Stravinsky’s Petrushka and Prokovief’s Alexander Nevsky,

38 | February 2020 • Wanted in Rome

24 Feb

Milan’s La Scala Filarmonica conducted by Riccardo Chailly gives one performance at the Auditorium in Rome. The programmme includes Sibelius’s Finland symphony, Grieg’s piano concerto and Mussorgski’s Pictures at an Exhibition performed by Canadian soloist Jan Lisiecki. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www. auditorium.com.

DANIELE GATTI ALESSIO ALLEGRINI Daniele Gatti conducts the S. Cecilia orchestra playing Strauss horn concerto no 2 and Mahler’s symphony no 5. Alessio Allegrini, who is the principal horn soloist of the S. Cecilia orchestra performs the horn concerto. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

ISTITUZIONE UNIVERSITARIO DEI CONCERTI BRUNO MADERNA HYPERION 4 March Bruno

Maderna’s

version of his adaption of Holderin’s poem Hyperion with the voice of Carmelo Bene and the Orchestra Sinfonica Abruzzese. It is a suite for voice, flute, oboe, chorus and orchestra. Italian conductor and composer Maderna was friend, mentor and teacher to some of the greats of 20th-century music, Luigi Nono, Karlheinz Stockhausen, Pierre Boulez and Luciano Berio. Aula Magna, Università La Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it.

LES ARTS FLORISSANTS: GESUALDO PROJECT II 15 Oct

This is the second part of the project to perform all of Gesualdo’s madrigals. In this concert Les Arts Florissants, conducted by Paul Agnew, perform the fourth book of Gesualdo’s madrigals. Aula Magna, Università La Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it.

JORDI SAVALL HESPERION XXI 18 Feb

A programme of European music from the Renaissance to the Baroque from England, France, Germany, Italy, Portugal, Spain. Jordi Savall conducts and plays the viola da gamba. Aula Magna, Università La Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it.

STEFAN MILENKOVICH 22 Feb original

1980

Violinist soloist Stefan Milenkovich

plays Bach’s Brandenburg concerto no 3 and Mendelssohn’s concerto for violin and orchestra with the Orchestra Filarmonica Marchigiana. Aula Magna, Università La Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it.

LETTERS TO BACH NOA AND GIL DOR 25 Feb

Noa sings 12 works set to the music of J.S. Bach, in English and Hebrew accompanied by Gil Dor on the guitar and Or Lubianiker on the bass. Noa won the Eurovision song contest in 2009. Aula Magna, Università La Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it.

ERICA PICCOTTI ITAMAR GOLAN 29 Feb

Cellist Enrica Piccotti and pianist Itamar Golan piano perform music by Franck and Prokofiev and Stravinsky’s Suite Italienne. Aula Magna, Università La Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it.

JONATHAN BISS 3 March

In his Rome debut American pianist Jonathan Biss plays three Beethoven sonatas. Biss is co-director with Mitsuko Uchida of the Marlboro Music Festival. Aula Magna, Università La Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it.

OTHER VENUES IN ROME

The Oratorio Gonfalone has concerts every Thursday evening in the beautiful church on Via del Gonfalone 32 A, just off Via Giulia. www. oratoriogonfalone.eu. Some of Rome’s English speaking churches, such as St Paul’s within the Walls, All Saints’ Anglican church, Ponte S. Angelo Methodist church and the Oratorio Caravita also have concerts and opera recitals. S. Agnese in Agone in Piazza Navona and Palazzo Doria Pamphilj are two other places that often offer concerts and opera recitals. See www. romaoperaomnia.com.

hit You’re Beautiful from his debut album Back to Bedlam which sold 11 million copies worldwide. For tickets see TicketOne website. Palazzo dello Sport, Piazzale dello Sport, www. palazzodellosportroma.it.

SUMMER CONCERTS

Liam Gallagher performs at Palazzo dello Sport on 15 February. Photo Vanity Fair.

ROCK, POP, JAZz LIAM GALLAGHER 15 FEB

Former Oasis frontman Liam Gallagher performs at the Palazzo dello Sport in the EUR area of Rome on 15 February. Alongside his brother Noel, Gallagher achieved international stardom in the 1990s with the hugely popular rock band Oasis. Following the group’s acrimonious split in 2009, Gallagher formed Beady Eye, which

Several acts have been announced already for Rome’s summer festivals, with tickets on sale now. The concerts include US alternative band The Pixies (8 July) and English singer-songwriter Paul Weller (24 July) for the Roma Summer Fest at the Auditorium Parco della Musica, while one of the main events on the Teatro dell’Opera summer programme at the Baths of Caracalla will be a concert by Andrea Bocelli on 21 June.

was disbanded in 2014, before launching his solo career. For tickets see TicketOne website. Palazzo dello Sport, Piazzale dello Sport, www. palazzodellosportroma.it.

JAMES BLUNT 28 March

English singer-songwriter James Blunt returns to Rome with a concert at the Palazzo dello Sport. Blunt is best known for his massive

James Blunt performs at Palazzo dello Sport on 28 March.

Wanted in Rome • February 2020 | 39

DANCE MILAN TEATRO ALLA SCALA SERATA VAN MANEN - PETIT 24 Jan-8 Feb

Three works by the Dutch dancer and choreographer Hans van Manen, Adagio Hammerclavier (music by Beethoven), Kammerballet (music by Kara Karayev, John Cage and Scarlatti) and Sarcasmen (music by Prokovief) and two ballets by Roland Petit, Le Combat des Anges (music by Faure) and Le Jeune Homme et la Mort (music by Bach). Van Manen’s Kammerballet and Sarcasmen have never been performed before at La Scala. Roberto Bolle will dance in Petit’s masterpiece, Le Jeune Homme et la Mort, on 1 Feb. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

Concert (music by Chopin) are the three pieces chosen for this Jerome Robbins compendium. Rome stars Rebecca Bianchi, Claudio Cocino and Susanna Salvini dance in all three works. Eleonora Abbagnato, the head of dance at the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, and Zachary Catazaro from the New York City Ballet make up the third couple in In the Night. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Teatro Costanzi, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it.

MADINA

IL CORSARO

This is the world premiere of Madina, a new work by Fabio Vacchi with choreography by Mauro Bigonzetti on a libretto by Emmanuelle di Villepin, based on her novel La ragazza che non voleva morire. The story is about a Chechen suicide bomber, Madina, who is forced into becoming a terrorist but decides not to kill. It is a complete work, rather than a study, of dance, theatre, music and the spoken word. La Scala hopes to present one new contemporary work each season. Roberto Bolle dances on 22, 24 March and 1, 2, 16 April. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

This is a new version of Il Corsaro, choreographed by Jose Carlos Martinez, who returns to the original, taking out many of the additions that have been made since the ballet was first danced in 1856, reducing it to two rather than the usual three acts. Martinez, previously at the Paris Opera as dancer and choreograher, is now the artistic director of the Spanish National Ballet. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Teatro Costanzi, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it.

22 March-16 April

ROME TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA SERATA JEROME ROBBINS 30 Jan-05 Feb

Glass Pieces (music by Philip Glass), In the Night (music by Chopin) and The

40 | February 2020 • Wanted in Rome

The Caterpillar in Alice by Moses Pendelton at Teatro Olimpico.

1-8 March

TEATRO OLIMPICO MOMIX - ALICE 12 Feb-1 March

Alice was choreographed by Moses Pendleton for Momix and had its world premiere at Teatro Olimpico in Feb 2019. It returns once again to the Olimpico as part of the Giornate della Danza di Roma, organised by the Accademia Filarmonica Romana and Teatro Olimpico. Alice has been called “a triumph of imagination,

illusions and special effects.” Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.teatroolimpico.it.

SHINE - PINK FLOYD MOON 3-8 March

Choreography by Micha van Hoecke inspired by the Pink Floyd song Shine On you Crazy Diamond, which was dedicated to the ousted founder of the group, Syd Barrett. It was created for and is danced by the Compagnia Daniele Cipriani. The lighting and videos transform the performance into a lunar landscape. The Belgian choroegrapher has often worked with Riccardo Muti and the piece premiered at the Ravenna festival last year before touring many summer festivals in Italy. Part of the Giornate della Danza di Roma, organised by the Accademia Filarmonica Romana and Teatro Olimpico. Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabbriano 17, www. filarmonicaromana.org.

TEATRO VASCELLO SOGNO UNA NOTTE DI MEZZA ESTATE 25 Feb-1 March

La Compagnia di Roma Balletto performs its interpretation of William Shakespeare’s play in a coproduction with the Festival Oriente Occidente - CID Centro Internazionale della Danza. The themes of this work by Davide Valrosso are magic and dreams, where reality and fantasy mix. Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78,www.teatrovascello.it.

Wanted in Rome â&#x20AC;¢ February 2020 | 41

Alice Pasquini has become the first street artist to have her work included in the prestigious Farnesina art collection.

ART NEWS RED ROSES FOR RAPHAEL

Italy is marking the 500th anniversary of the death of Raphael by placing a red rose on the tomb of the High Renaissance master in the Pantheon on each day of 2020. The inscription on Raphael’s marble tomb reads: “Here lies Raphael, by whom nature herself feared to be outdone while he lived, and when he died, feared that she herself would die.” There will be several major Raphael exhibitions around the world this year but the most important of these will be held in Rome, the city in which the artist spent the last decade of his life. The Rome show, billed as “unprecedented” in its scale, will be held at the Scuderie del Quirinale from 5 March until 2 June. When presale tickets went on sale in early January the museum registered a record 10,000 requests in the first 48 hours.

MAXXI NAMED BEST MUSEUM IN ITALY

Rome’s MAXXI Museo delle Arti del XXI secolo was voted the best museum in Italy for 2019 by the influential Italian art newspaper Artribune. MAXXI was singled out due to the great quality and quantity of its exhibitions and events during 2019, in particular its show devoted to Maria Lai. The prize – part of the Artribune’s annual recognition of best artists, curators, galleries and shows – also saw awards go to Rome (“Best Italian City”) as well as the capital’s Monitor Gallery (“Best Italian Gallery”) and Contemporary Cluster (joint winner of “Best Mixed-Use Space”). For full list of awards – which included the return of culture minister Dario Franceschini as “Best News of 2019” – see Artribune website, www.artribune.

42 | February 2020 • Wanted in Rome

POMPEII OPENS HOUSE OF THE ORCHARD

Pompeii opens its Casa del Frutteto, or House of the Orchard, on 1 February, following the completion of an extensive restoration process. Considered one of the most beautiful houses on Via dell’Abbondanza, the building is embellished with detailed frescoes depicting a city garden of lemon and strawberry trees, fruit and ornamental plants, fluttering birds and even a fig tree sheltering snake – a symbol of prosperity. Unlike other houses in Pompeii, whose garden frescoes were reserved for reception rooms, the walls of the private rooms in the Casa del Frutteto are also richly decorated. The House of the Orchard, believed to have been owned by a vintner, was excavated first in 1913 and again in 1951. Its upcoming opening follows the discovery of a fresco portraying fighting gladiators, found intact in the ruins of the ancient Roman city which was buried under a thick carpet of volcanic ash in 79 AD.

ALICE PASQUINI AT FARNESINA

Rome street artist Alice Pasquini has made history by creating a mural (see above) at Italy’s foreign ministry building in the capital. Entitled How Far, How Near, the 10x5-m mural is the first piece of street art to grace the walls of the imposing Farnesina building in Rome’s Monte Mario district. A street artist of international renown, Pasquini recently published a book of her work, and over the years several of her vibrant images have featured as covers of Wanted in Rome magazine. Andy Devane

A FOOTBALL GAME UNLIKE ANY OTHER GET YOUR

TICKETS ON YOUR

MOBILE PHONE

asroma.com/en/ticketing OR SIMPLY SCAN THIS CODE WITH YOUR PHONE

Venice and it was first performed at La Fenice in March 1830. Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it.

opera

EUGENIE ONEGIN BY TCHAIKOVSKY 18-29 Feb

Bellini's opera I Capuleti e Montecchie, the second opera to be conducted by Daniele Gatti this season, will be at the Teatro dell'Opera di Roma until 6 February.

MILAN ROMEO E JULIETTE BY CHARLES GOUNOD 15 Jan-16 Feb

This is a Metropolitan Opera production, conducted by Lorenzo Viotti, with Diana Damrau and Vittorio Grigolo. Grigolo, the popular Italian tenor, caused considerable controversy last September when he was temporarily under investigation by London’s Royal Opera House (ROH) for allegedly groping of one of the chorus during a ROH tour in Japan. He has since been dismissed by both the ROH and New York’s Met. The ROH announced that the tenor’s behaviour “fell below the standards we expect from our staff and performers.” Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

IL TROVATORE BY VERDI 6-29 Feb

Nicola Luisotti conducts Verdi’s Il Trovatore in a co-production with the Salzburg festival, which was first performed in Salzburg in 2014. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

IL TURCO IN ITALIA BY ROSSINI 22 Feb-19 March

The new La Scala production of Rossini’s comic opera is conducted by Diego Fasolis and directed by Roberto Andò. Inevitably this production will be compared with the ZeffirelliMaria Callas version at La Scala in the 1950s. Andò is a cinema director (he worked with Francis Ford Coppola, Fellini, Francesco Rosi), as

44 | February 2020 • Wanted in Rome

well as a playwright and author, and Fasolis will be conducting his first Rossini opera at La Scala. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.

SALOME BY RICHARD STRAUSS 8-31 March

Conducted by Riccardo Chailly this is a new La Scala production directed by Damiano Michieletto. The role of Salome, which is crucial to this opera, is sung by Swedish soprano Malin Bystrom. She debuted in the role in Amsterdam in 2018 and then received glowing reviews from her subsequent performance at Covent Garden, with the tenor Michele Volle. He will also be in the role Jochanaan (John the Baptist) at La Scala. At Covent Garden the opera was staged in a revised and violent David McVicar production, so it will be interesting to see the interpretation of Italian theatre and cinema director Michieletto. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

ROME

Tchaikovsky’s opera will be conducted by James Conlon, directed by Robert Carsen. This is Carsen's second production at Rome’s opera theatre (the first was Idomeneo by Mozart in November). Carsen originally developed this work in 1997 for the Met Opera, which kept it in its repertoire until the Deborah Warner production of the same opera in 2013. It was picked up successfully by the Canadian Opera Company to open its 2018/2019 season. Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it.

TURANDOT BY PUCCINI

25 March-5 April

This will be Ai Weiwei’s first experience at directing opera and his debut in Rome. He will also be designing the sets and the costumes. Turandot, which is set in China, has been close to Weiwei’s heart since he and his half-brother appeared as extras in Zeffirelli’s version of the opera at the Met Opera in 1987. Weiwei said that his version will be an opera with clear cultural and political references to the contemporary world, referring to Hong Kong in particular. To have managed to sign Weiwei to direct one of its operas is clearly another big plus for the Rome opera house, following on from its engagement of the South African William Kentridge. Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it.

TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA I CAPULETI E MONTECCHIE BY BELLINI 23 Jan-6 Feb

Daniele Gatti conducts this new production of the Bellini opera, which is rarely performed in Rome. It is directed by Denis Krief, who directed the version of Aida this year for the opera house’s summer season at the Baths of Caracalla. Bellini wrote the opera for the carnival season in

Robert Carsen's production of Eugenie Onegin will be at the Teatro dell'Opera di Roma from 18-29 February.

Theatre GHOST

28 Jan-9 Feb

Teatro Sistina stages a new Italian production of the musical Ghost, based on the Oscar-winning cult movie starring Patrick Swayze and Demi Moore. The story, which centres around the couple Molly and Sam, along with the psychic Oda Mae Brown, features a popular soundtrack including the Righteous Brothers’ hit Unchained Melody. Il Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsistina.it.

evening. Teatro Arciliuto, Piazza di Montevecchio 5, tel. 066879419.

ENGLISH THEATRE OF ROME

TEATRO INDIA

6-7 Feb

Edgar Oliver, the New York performance artist and raconteur who regularly contributes to the storytelling project The Moth, will premiere in Italy one of his singular series of elegiac performance pieces. Described in The New York Times as “a poet laureate of New York’s dispossessed”, Oliver will perform for the English Theatre of Rome at Teatro Arciliuto, near Piazza Navona, on 6 and 7 February at 20.00 each

Shadows of Tomorrow at Teatro India.

27-28 Feb

Norwegian choreographer Ingri Fiksdal brings her psychedelic concert Shadows of Tomorrow to Teatro India. The public is invited to roam freely around the theatre’s foyer, mingling among the performers and becoming an integral part of the production’s complex play of light and shadows. Fiksdal’s show attempts to recreate the immersive experience of a psychedelic concert, using only moving bodies and light,

ACADEMIES BRITISH SCHOOL OF ROME 6-14 Dec

The British School at Rome holds several interesting lectures coming up including What was the School of London? Paula Rego vs Bacon and Freud by Sarah Wilson (Courtald) at 18.00 on 19 Feb, coinciding with the exhibition at Chiostro del Bramante (see page 36); and The archaeology of Raphael’s drawings: uncovering new sketches and methodologies by Angelamaria Aceto (Ashmolean), coinciding with the 500th anniversary of Raphael’s death (see

46 | February 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Art News page 42) at 18.00 on 4 March. For full details see website. British School at Rome, Via Gramsci 61, tel. 063264939, www.bsr.ac.uk.

CASA DI GOETHE 28 Feb-20 Sept

Casa di Goethe presents Sources of inspiration: Libraries of German Artists in Rome 1795-1915, an exhibition which is expected to open a “new chapter in GermanRoman art history.” Until recently little was known about the fact that German artists studied books in the

without any music. Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman, tel. 0687752210, www.teatrodiroma.net.

ROME’S COMEDY CLUB 28 Feb

With almost 100 shows under its belt over the last decade, Rome’s Comedy Club is currently midway through its tenth season of stand-up comedy in English. The €15 entry fee includes aperitivo, a beer or glass of wine. Doors open at 20.00, and the show starts at 21.30. Bookings by text via Whatsapp 3397514140 or email makairoma@ gmail.com. Makai Surf and Tiki bar, Via dei Magazzini Generali, 4/a/b/c.

libraries, established specifically for them, with the same passion they devoted to Rome’s countless art works. The paintings, books and archive documents on display in this exhibition highlight the Library of the German Artists’ Association (Deutscher Künstlerverein), active in Rome between 1845 and 1915. The library was founded at Palazzo Simonetti on Via del Corso 307, moving several times over the course of its long history, with the collection held today at Casa di Goethe. Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www.casadigoethe.it.

FRENCH ACADEMY IN ROME 8 Nov-1 March

The French Academy in Rome at Villa Medici presents A Modern Antiquity, an exhibition in collaboration with the Louvre in Paris, with a focus on the appropriation of classical Roman antiquity in France. Over the past five years, the Louvre and Villa Medici have created a research and study partnership, supported by their respective collections and following extensive restoration campaigns. The exhibition presents works spanning four centuries of acquisitions, from the founding of the French Academy in the 17th century to the present day. Accademia di Francia a Roma - Villa Medici, Viale della Trinità dei Monti 1, tel. 0667611, www.villamedici.it.

KEATS-SHELLEY HOUSE 8 Oct-23 Feb

The Keats-Shelley House presents an exhibition that explores the parallels in the lives and works of John Keats and Virginia Woolf. Entitled From Hampstead to Rome, the show features wonderfully simple single-line drawings by Roberto Einaudi with quotations from the works of both. The exhibition will remain open to visitors during the temporary

Sources of Inspiration at Casa di Goethe. Johann David Passavant, Selbstporträt. Frankfurt a. M. Städel Museum. Foto Artothek.

closure of the museum and library, which reopen on 24 February after the delicate restoration of the

ceiling. Keats-Shelley House, Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.org.

sport SIX NATIONS RUGBY IN ROME 22 Feb, 14 March

The Italian rugby team will play two home matches in Rome’s Stadio Olimpico during the 2020 Six Nations tournament, facing Scotland on 22 February and England on 14 March. Italy’s most capped rugby player, Sergio Parisse, will make his last international appearance in one, or both, of the Rome games, after an 18-year career with Italy making him the third most capped international player in rugby history. Italy’s three away matches

Sergio Parisse will make his last international appearance for Italy in Rome during the 2020 Six Nations.

will be against reigning champions Wales in Cardiff on 1 February, France in Paris on 9 February,

and Ireland in Dublin on 7 March. For details see Six Nations website, www.sixnationsrugby.com. Wanted in Rome • February 2020 | 47

lassical lassical

The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a definitive list of all the music that is available in the city. The following is a list of the main musical There are also concerts in many of the associations in Rome but it is not a definitive churches and sometimes in the museums. list of all the music that is available in the city. There are also concerts in many of the Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della churches and sometimes in the museums. Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Auditorium Conciliazione, ViaP. de della Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Accademia Filarmonica Teatro Auditorium Parco della Romana, Musica, Viale P. de Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro starts on 15 Oct Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season concerts Parco della Musica. The startsat onAuditorium 15 Oct newAccademia season startsS. on 5Cecilia, Oct www.santacecilia.it. All concerts Universitaria at Auditorium Parco della Musica. Istituzione dei Concerti, AulaThe newUniversità season starts on 5 Oct www.concertiiuc.it Magna, la Sapienza,

Istituzione Universitaria deiGonfalone Concerti,32a, Aula Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it www.oratoriogonfalone.com Oratorio delMethodist Gonfalone, Via delPiazza Gonfalone 32a, RomeConcerts, Church, Ponte www.oratoriogonfalone.com S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it RomeConcerts, Piazza Ponte Roma Sinfonietta, Methodist AuditoriumChurch, Ennio Morricone, S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Roma Auditorium Roma Tre Sinfonietta, Orchestra, some concertsEnnio are atMorricone, Teatro Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others at Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are are at Teatro the Aula Magna, Piazza Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, 8, Palladium, Bartolomeo Romano Universita Roma Tre, Via while Ostienze teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, others234, are at www.r30.org the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Tre,festivals Via Ostienze 234, There are oftenRoma concerts, and opera www.r30.org recitals in several churches in Rome.

often concerts, festivals and153, opera All There Saints' are Anglican Church, Via Babuino recitals in several churches in Rome. www.allsaintsrome.org All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. www.allsaintsrome.org Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7 Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com

Oratorio del Caravita, Caravita St Paul's Within the Walls,Via Viadella Nazionale and7 the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the S. Agnese Sagrestia del Borromini, corner ofin ViaAgone, Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it Piazza Navona S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Palazzo PiazzaDoria NavonaPamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum Serenades by Night Dinner throughout and Opera dinner afterwards. Viawith del Corso 305, the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum www.doriapamphilj.com and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com Jan 2019 •2020 Wanted Rome 5048 |48 Oct 2018 • Wanted in in Rome | |February • Wanted in Rome

MUSIC MUSIC THEATR THEATRE CINEMA CINEMA VENUES VENUES

MUSIC THEATRE CINEMA DANCE OPERA

dd p

inema inema

The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wantedshow in Rome website for The following cinemas movies in English weekly updates. or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for Adriano, Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 weeklyPiazza updates. Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 0686391361 Barberini, Piazza BarberiniMastroianni 24-26, 1, tel. Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello 0686391361 tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it 068553485 Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 068553485 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 066861068 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 066861068 Odeon, Piazza Stefano 22, tel. Nuovo Sacher, LargoJacini Ascianghi 1, 0686391361 tel. 065818116

Space Moderno, Piazza della 44, tel. Odeon, Piazza Stefano JaciniRepubblica 22, tel. 0686391361 06892111 Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebec06892111 chini 3-5, tel. 06892111 Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111

ddance oopera p pop r ock r ance

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano www.teatrovascello.it 17, www.teatroolimpico.it

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it

pera

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

ock

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Concert venues ranging from major pop and Alexanderplatz, 9, tel. 0683775604 rock groups to Via jazzOstia and acoustic gigs. www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org Angelo Mai Via Atlantico delle Terme di Atlantico, VialeAltrove, dell’Oceano 271d, Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it

Atlantico, Viale Atlantico Auditorium Parcodell’Oceano della Musica, Viale 271d, P. de tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com Auditorium della Viale de Casa del Jazz, Parco Viale di PortaMusica, Ardeatina 55,P.tel. Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com 06704731, www.casajazz.it

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

heatre heatre

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net www.teatrobelli.it Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobelli.it www.teatrobrancaccio.it Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatrobrancaccio.it www.teatroghione.it Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. www.teatroghione.it 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net

Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com Lanificio 159,ViaVia di Pietralata 159, Live Alcazar, Cardinale Merry del Valtel. 14, 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com Live Alcazar, Merry del 35, Val 14, Monk Club, Via ViaCardinale Giuseppe Mirri tel. tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com 0664850987, www.monkroma.it Monk Club, ViaPiazzale Giuseppe Mirri 35,1, tel. PalaLottomatica, dello Sport tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it

PalaLottomatica, Piazzale Sport 1, tel. Rock in Roma, Via Appiadello Nuova 1245, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it www.teatrosangenesio.it Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsiwww.teatrosangenesio.it stina.it Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.ilsistina.it www.teatrovascello.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Vittoria,www.teatrovascello.it Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. tel. 065898031, 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it 51 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome

ddance oopera p pop r ock r ance

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

pera

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

ock

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Atlantico, Viale Atlantico Auditorium Parcodell’Oceano della Musica, Viale 271d, P. de tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com Auditorium della Viale de Casa del Jazz, Parco Viale di PortaMusica, Ardeatina 55,P.tel. Coubertin,www.casajazz.it tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com 06704731,

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

heatre heatre

Monk Club, ViaPiazzale Giuseppe Mirri 35,1, tel. PalaLottomatica, dello Sport tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it PalaLottomatica, Piazzale Sport 1, tel. Rock in Roma, Via Appiadello Nuova 1245, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

Wanted in Rome | December 2017

An Education for Life that will make the diďŹ&#x20AC;erence

7, tel.

, 3432,

w.ilsi-

031

0, tel.

Castelli International School

International Elementary and Middle School

www.castelli-international.it

WANTED junior inROME BEACHES OF DUNKIRK By Leonardo Bonanno, age 16, Year 12, from St George's British International School, Rome. 1945 Jim It was 2 September, and with hindsight, I can honestly say that it should’ve been the best day of my life but, in fact, as it transpired, it was one of the worst. That damned bloodshed had wholly depleted me. It was the end of the ubiquitous massacre, but the real genocide was about to be realised. My name is James K. Chester and I had to wipe the slate clean. I had to start again. It was the end of a chronic calamity, which brought devastation to a whole generation. Swathes of innocent people exterminated by a relentless stream of bullets which ravaged anyone and anything in its path. Shells, bombs causing havoc. Silvia has waited long enough. I’m coming home.

1940 Jim Operation Dynamo. Cursed Dunkirk beaches. Damn the Krauts! The artillery are locked-on to the enemy. This battle in Normandy is hell. Acrid smoke suffocates us and distracts us from our frantic fear of gas explosions. And then, with a sudden jolt back to reality, we remember where we are and emerge from one hell to another. The alkaline odour of dead corpses. Congealed blood daubed on the faces of soldiers. Hun planes snarl and rattle overhead, while here, on the ground, soldiers shout, whimper and sing snatches of songs from long ago. We are but pawns in a game of chess, ready to be sacrificed for the cause. Allied troops are being slaughtered like lambs in an abattoir. They surround us. We cannot hold on. We need to get the hell out of here. 1945 Jim My life was demolished, my only fear was the oblivion ahead of me as I thought I was living my last moments on those blasted beaches. As the sun was setting, my joyful memories were slowly fading away, replaced instead by the faces of friends stolen by the war. We had not all been so lucky. For every man on this boat, another was left in the dirt.

Illustration by Sofia Cruciani, age 18, Year 13.

52 | February 2020 • Wanted in Rome

1940 Jim Day and night the transports are steaming. There is no peace and quiet, no escape from the constant sound and movement, no escape from danger, no escape back to Silvia, Thomas and little Charlie. I’ve had little sleep in months. My eyes are lead and just won’t close. Even in the few moments when I sleep, James – Corporal Smith – to those that don’t know – says I do not actually close my eyes fully. A permanent yellow crust has formed around my left eye and my eyeball is bloodshot. We are all bloodshot. No wonder we cannot sleep. Our nights – and days! – are disturbed by the sputter and rumble

of Luftwaffe and our boys in the RAF. If we are marching, they will pick us off from the air like fish in a bucket. In quiet moments, rare though they be, the cold salty breeze sweeps in from the sea and I remember my days back in Brighton. I remember as if it was yesterday, walking along the promenade with Silvia eating an ice cream, with the jolly music emanating from the lovely Ferris wheel just a few yards away. Silvia, I love that woman. I hope I see her again, even though we are only 150 miles away, it could just as well be the other side of the world. Will I ever get out of this nightmare? Dunkirk is Hell! No one is still, an assault of rumbling movements, explosions and constant fear. Men packed like sardines into ships. Day and night the transports steam. The clickclack of the safety catch. The good old days in Brighton are long gone, where have they ended up? We live every single day in fear of dying. How can it be sweet and proper to die for our country, when meanwhile little Charlie, the love of my life, Silvia, and Thomas are waiting for me. Bloody war! I am afraid of dying. I am paralysed by fear that I will not see them again. Lost in noisy confusion, our torment is endless. My lads have a haggard disposition; we are all doing this for Queen and country. LET US WIN THE WAR! 1945 Jim Home-coming. Steamers took us back to Dover. There were more wounded than able-bodied men. We slept with our eyes open. The voyage only took three hours but it felt like much longer. There is still a lot of confusion. Political decisions are still not clear. I wonder if Hitler really is dead? What is Churchill going to do with all this mess? Will this be the second miracle? My only thought is of getting home to Silvia. A long train journey from Dover to London. No direct trains from Dover to Brighton anymore. Everything has changed. I don’t recognise anything anymore. Few buildings are standing. Everything has been demolished. Repairs following the blitz have been slow. Who knows how badly Brighton has been affected?

A slow train from Euston to Brighton. Miles inched past at an agonising pace. Slowly, slowly. How has England ended up in this mess? You would never think that we had won the war. A quick stroll from Brighton station down the same avenues and roads. But something was different. The Ferris wheel cowered from sight on the horizon. It’s rusty and still. No music now. Silvia … Thomas? Charlie? I walk faster. Down Cambridge Road, across Churchill Avenue. All the old familiar roads and finally, home is just around the corner … 1945 Silvia A telegram came. Jim is alive. He will be home any day, they say. The kids are delighted. They can’t remember him well. I cannot wait to see Jim’s face when he walks in. Thomas in his school uniform and little Charlie able to read. He will be delighted. Mrs Jones from next door and the army police have been around. There’s news of an unexploded bomb just round the corner. This flaming war never ends even when it is over. They are going to deactivate the bomb later today and say that we have to evacuate but I am not going anywhere, Jim might come back and we won’t be here. I’ve been waiting for Jim for years. Not even an unexploded bomb will shift me. 1945 Jim Suddenly, an explosion. I am thrown to the ground with a blinding flash of light. SILENCE. Then a deafening buzz, constant. BUZZZZZZZZZZ. The shout goes up. An army policeman runs past. “Unexploded bomb! Bloody exploded, didn’t it!” I cannot hear him properly but I understand. Suddenly, Mrs Jones from next door is there. “I told Silvia to leave … now she’s dead! And the kids!” DARKNESS ENGULFS ME. St George’s British International School, Via Cassia km16, La Storta, tel. 063086001, www.stgeorge.school.it.

WANTED IN ROME JUNIOR: For young writers and artists Wanted in Rome accepts creative contributions from students in all international schools in Rome. Articles on topics related to either the student’s life in Rome or their school projects can be submitted by their class teachers. The work should be no more than 1,000 words and we also accept illustrations. Any class teachers who would like to propose a project please contact editorial@wantedinrome.com.

Wanted in Rome • February 2020 | 53

Rome’s street artart capital continues to to grow with newnew murals by important Italian and Rome'sreputation reputationasasananimportant important street capital continues grow with murals by important Italian international streetstreet artistsartists appearing all the all time. the works located the suburbs, often far often from the and international appearing theMost time.ofMost of theare works are in located in the suburbs, far centre. Here is where to is find Rome’s mainthe street artstreet projects murals. from the centre. Here where to find main artand projects and murals around Rome. Esquilino Esquilino Murals Murals byby Alice Alice Pasquini, Pasquini, Gio Gio Pistone, Nicola Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Alessandrini, Diamond. Diamond. Casa Casa dell’Architettura, dell'Architettura, Piazza Fanti 47. PiazzaMafredo Manfredo Fanti 47. Marconi Marconi The The M.A.G.R. M.A.G.R. (Museo (Museo Abusivo Abusivo Gestito Gestitodai daiRom), Rom),a aproject projectby byFrench French street artistSeth Seth is located in a street artist is located in a former former soap factory Via Antonio soap factory on Viaon Antonio AvogaAvogadro, opposite dro, opposite Ostiense'sOstiense’s landmark landmark Gasometro. details see Gasometro. For For details see www.999contemporary.com. www.999contemporary.com. Museodell’Altro dell’Altroe edell’Altrove dell’Altrovedidi Museo Metropoliz Metropoliz This former former meat meat factory factory inin the the This outskirts of of Rome art outskirts Rome isis now nowa astreet street museum being home hometoto art museumasaswell well as as being some200 200squatting squatters,migrants. many of The them some migrants. The Museo dell’Altrodi e Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove dell’Altroveor diMAAM, Metropoliz, or MAAM, Metropoliz, is only open only open Saturdays, and onis Saturdays, andon features the work the work of moreincluding than 300 offeatures more than 300 artists artists including Gio Edoardo Kobra,Edoardo Gio Kobra, Pistone, Pistone, Sten&Lex Diamond.and See Sten&Lex, Pablo and Echaurren MAAM Facebook page for details. Borondo. See MAAM Facebook page Via Prenestina 913. for details. Via Prenestina 913. Ostiense Ostiense Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Porto Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Fluviale. Porto Fluviale. Fish’n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via Fish’n’Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale. del Porto Wall of Fluviale. Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali. Magazzini Shelley by Generali. Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense Via Ostiense. underpass, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense. Pigneto Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Pigneto Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71. Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.

54 | February 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Via Via Fanfulla Fanfulla da da Lodi. Lodi. 2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio. Fortebraccio. 2501 mural on Via Blu by Sten Blu Landscape Landscape by Sten & & Lex. Lex. Via Via Francesco Baracca. Francesco Baracca. Prati Prati Anna Magnaniportrait portrait by Diavù. Anna Magnani by Diavù. Nuovo Nuovo MercatoViaTrionfale, Via Mercato Trionfale, Andrea Doria. Andrea Doria. Daniza the bear by Daniza the bear by ROA. Via Sabotino. ROA. Via Sabotino. Primavalle Primavalle The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via Cristoforo Numai. Cristoforo Numai. the Minotaur by Theseus stabbing Theseus stabbing the Bembo. Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo. Quadraro Quadraro Tunnel murals by Mr THOMS and Gio Tunnel byMure. Mr THOMS and Pistone. murals Via Decio Gio Decio Mure. Via del NidoPistone. di Vespe Via by Lucamaleonte. Nido didel Vespe by Lucamaleonte. Via Monte Grano. del Monte Baby Hulkdel byGrano. Ron English. Via dei Baby PisoniHulk 89. by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89. Rebibbia Rebibbia Murals by Blu. Via Ciciliano and Via Murals by Blu. Via Palombini (Casal dèCiciliano Pazzi). and Via Palombini dè Pazzi). Welcome to(Casal Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Metro B station. Metro B station. S. Basilio S.SanBa Basilio features large-scale works on SanBa features large-scale works the façades of social-housing blockson in the of social-housing blocks the façades disadvantaged north-east suburb of in the disadvantaged north-east S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regenerasuburb of S.includes Basilio works near Rebibbia. tion project by Italian The project artistsregeneration Agostino Iacurci, Hitnesincludes and Blu works by Spain's ItalianLiqen. artistsViaAgostino alongside Maiolati, Iacurci, Hitnes and BluVia alongside Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Arcevia, Spain’s Via Treia.Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, Via Treia. S. Giovanni Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via S.Apulia Giovanni corner of Via Farsalo. Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.

It’s aa New NewDay Daybyby Alice Pasquini. It’s Alice Pasquini. Via Via Anton Ludovico. Anton Ludovico. S. Lorenzo Lorenzo S. AlicePasquini. Pasquini. ViaSabelli. dei Sabelli. Alice Via dei Feminicidemural mural Elisa Feminicide by Elisaby Caracciolo. Caracciolo. Via Dei Sardi.Via Dei Sardi. Borondo. Via Viadei deiVolsci Volsci159. 159. Borondo. Mural by by Agostino AgostinoIacurci Iacurci on Mural on the the Istituto Superiore di Lattanzio, Vittorio Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia. Via Aquilonia. Pietro S. Pietro UmaCabra Cabra Bordalo II. Stazione Uma byby Bordalo II. Stazione di S. Pietro, di Monte di S. Clivo Pietro, Clivo del di Gallo. Monte del Gallo. Testaccio Hunted Wolf by ROA. Via Galvani. Testaccio #KindComments AliceVia Pasquini, Via Hunted Wolf bybyROA. Galvani. Volta, Testaccio market. #KindComments by Alice Pasquini, Via Volta, Testaccio market. Tor Pignattara Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta. Tor Pignattara Etnik. Via Bartolomeo Perestrello 51. Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta. Coffee Etam Cru. Via Ludovico Etnik.Break ViabyBartolomeo Perestrello Pavoni. 51. Coﬀee Break by Etam Cru. Via Tom SawyerPavoni. by Jef Aerosol. Via Gabrio Ludovico Serbelloni. Tom Sawyer by Jef Aerosol. Via Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema Gabrio Serbelloni. Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Galeazzo Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Alessi. Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Herakut. Via Capua 14. Galeazzo Alessi. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Herakut. Via Capua 14. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Tor Marancia The Big City Life scheme features 14-m Tormurals Marancia tall by 22 Italian and internaThe Big City artists Life scheme features tional street including Mr 14-m tall murals by 22 Italian and Klevra, Seth, Gaia and Jerico. The idea international street was to transform theartists area's including blocks of Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia and Jerico. flats into an open-air art museum. Via TheMarancia. idea was to transform the area’s Tor www.bigcity.life.it. blocks of ﬂats into an open-air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. For full details see website, www.bigcity.life.it.

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Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth. Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

Wanted in Rome â&#x20AC;¢ February 2020 | 55

orski

ag By Kate Z

PASTA AL RAGU` ALLA BOLOGNESE A proper Ragù alla Bolognese is the perfect winter comfort food. During the dreary days of February there is nothing quite like the satisfaction of digging into a big bowl of silky fresh pasta snaking between a rich, meaty, tomato sauce. While a classic pasta al ragù is readily available in Rome’s restaurants, it is easier than you might think to make at home. Traditionally, real Italian Bolognese is almost totally meat-based and is served with tagliatelle or fettuccine rather than spaghetti, which is too thin to hold the weight of the heavy sauce. The recipe is surprisingly simple, needing more time than effort. Try to set aside a good 3 hours from start to finish and be prepared to check on it every now and then, to add more water, taste the seasoning and give it a good stir. Slow and easy is the trick, so take your time and let it bubble on a low heat.

Ingredients for 6 people: 4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 1 onion, finely chopped 1 medium carrot, finely diced 1 stick celery, finely diced 75g pancetta, finely chopped 75g mortadella, finely chopped 300g minced beef 200g minced pork (or pork sausage meat) 200ml red wine 700ml jar of tomato passata 50ml milk (optional) Salt Freshly ground black pepper Grated parmesan, to serve 120g fresh egg pasta (tagliatelle, fettuccine, pappardelle) per portion Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan, add the finely chopped onion, carrot and celery and a pinch of salt. Cook gently of a medium heat for about 5 minutes until beginning to soften. Blend, or very finely chop, the pancetta and mortadella and add to the pan. Stir well and cook for another 3-4 minutes until the fate is released. Add in the minced beef and pork, mixing everything well and cook until browned, about another 4-5 minutes. Pour in the red wine, bring to the boil and cook for a couple of minutes before adding the passata and seasoning with black pepper. Stir everything well and add a glass of water. Bring to the boil then turn the heat down so the sauce is just bubbling. Cover and cook for 2-2.5 hours, stirring every 20 minutes or so. If the sauce starts to dry out, add another cup of water. After a couple of hours check the seasoning, adding more salt and pepper if needed. Stir in the milk to round up the flavour and temper any bitterness (optional) then turn off the heat. Remove any extra sauce for freezing or keeping for the next day. In the meantime, bring a large pan of salted water to the boil and cook your chosen pasta until al dente. Drain and add to the ragù, mix together well and serve with a good sprinkle of grated parmesan.

58 | February 2020 â&#x20AC;¢ Wanted in Rome

The best cacio e pepe in Rome, seven unmissable restaurants Cacio e pepe is the quintessential Roman pasta dish, made with simple ingredients but far from simple to prepare. There are those who like it with hand-made tonnarello, and those who prefer spaghetti. Here are the best cacio e pepe restaurants in Rome, according to Puntarella Rossa. 7. FLAVIO AL VELAVEVODETTO In Testaccio, chef and restaurateur Flavio De Maio serves the finest specialities of Roman cuisine. Flavio's cacio e pepe recipe doesn’t call for a frying pan, but for a ‘mantecatura’ off the heat with pecorino romano, black pepper, the cooking water from the pasta and a dash of olive oil (“to ensure that when the dish cools down, the cheese mixes with the oil and adds a burst of flavour, taking the edge off the pecorino”). Price: €11. 6. DA FELICE Since Felice Trivelloni opened his osteria in 1936, the restaurant has been something of an institution for Roman cuisine. Their forte is indeed the cacio e pepe; it is plentiful and delicious and made with tonnarelli, cooking water from the pasta, pecorino and olive oil, for an irresistible creaminess. The finishing touch is the way in which it’s served: the pasta, cooking water and pecorino are mixed directly on the customer’s plate. Price: €13. 5. DA DANILO The cacio e pepe served at Trattoria Da Danilo in Esquillino is definitely one of the most renowned in the city. The most famous dish is, of course, the tonnarelli cacio e pepe, made with olive oil, freshly ground black pepper, cooking water from the pasta and pecorino romano. The difference at Danilo is that the pasta is mixed together directly in the pecorino romano wheel itself. The result is a superb creaminess and an intense flavour. Price: €10. 4. DA CESARE Here you can enjoy two versions of cacio e pepe, one with dry pasta (spaghetti, rigatoni), or fresh, handmade tonnarelli. Chef Leonardo Vignoli explains that to make cacio e pepe you need to mix the ground black pepper with the grated pecorino romano (which should have been matured for 6 months minimum) and a little cold water, then add the al dente spaghetti and give it a first mix off the heat. You should then add a generous spoonful

of cooking water from the pasta, put it back on the heat and stir it until it is creamy. Price: €9. 3. VYTA ENOTECA REGIONALE DEL LAZIO At Vyta you can try two versions of cacio e pepe, the classic variety or the summer version: tonnarelli, pecorino romano, fresh pepper, lemon and Roman mint. Here’s the recipe for a 500g serving: cook the tonnarelli in lots of salted water. While the pasta is still on the heat, take a spoonful of the cooking water and put it in a large saucepan. Add ground pepper to the water. Drain the pasta, put in pan and mix. Keep the pan on the heat and mix very slowly, using 100g of pecorino and grated lemon rind. Keep stirring until there’s the creaminess of cacio e pepe. Then add mint leaves. Serve immediately, adding another 50g of pecorino. Price: €13. 2. LA TERRAZZA DELL’HOTEL EDEN At the Hotel Eden, one of Rome’s most exclusive hotels, award-winning chef Fabio Ciervo is famous for his spaghetti cacio e pepe from Madagascar. He has reinterpreted the Roman pasta dish with thick spaghetti, chicken stock, pecorino romano, rose petals and black pepper from Madagascar. This is without a doubt one of the best cacio e pepe in Rome, but it is very expensive in comparison to our other favourites. Price: €45. 1. ROSCIOLI Established in 1824 and run by a family spanning four generations, Roscioli is a renowned Roman restaurant. Its menu includes all the classic Roman dishes but the star of the show is the cacio e pepe. And so what’s in theirs? Tonnarelli, pecorino romano, cheese from Moliterno, pecorino that has been matured in the earth from Sogliano and Malaysian pepper. It’s not such a simple list as the mix of cheeses gives the dish a special flavour. At the very end, Javan and Sarawakan pepper are ground together and then toasted as the finishing touch – it’s sensational. Price: €12.

www.puntarellarossa.it

Felice, Via Mastro Giorgio 29, tel. 065746800, www.feliceatestaccio.it Da Danilo, Via Petrarca 13, tel. 0677200111, www.trattoriadadanilo.com

Indirizzi

Flavio al Velavevodetto, Via di Monte Testaccio 97, tel. 065744194, www.ristorantevelavevodetto.it

Da Cesare, Via del Casaletto 45, tel. 06536015, www.trattoriadacesare.it VyTa, Via Frattina 94, tel. 0647786876, www.vytaenotecalazio.it La Terrazza Hotel Eden, Via Ludovisi 49, www.dorchestercollection.com/en/rome/hotel-eden Roscioli, Via dei Giubbonari 21, tel. 066875287, www.salumeriaroscioli.com Wanted in Rome • February 2020 | 59

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Your Passport to Worldclass Healthcare Campus Bio-Medico University Hospital of Rome provides: • Coordination of Hospital, physician and diagnostic appointments • Free of charge translation services for all the procedures • 12 hours medical services, including air ambulance transfer coordination • Partnership with major International Insurance Companies • Elevated International Standard and sole General Hospital JCI Accredited in Rome Whether you are a patient, family member or friend feel free to contact us at: Hospitaly - International Patients Program Officer Via Álvaro del Portillo, 200 - Rome (Italy) mail: info@hospitaly.it - phone: 0039.06.22541.8852 WWW.HOSPITALY.IT

Associations American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com Daughters of the American Revolution Pax Romana Chapter NSDAR paxromana@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com

International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490, www.iwcofrome.it Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 3338466820 Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Woman’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com

Books The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified. Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 Anglo American Bookshop Via delle Vite 102, tel. 066795222 Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it

Religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881 Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish)

62 | February 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484 Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com Otherwise Via del Governo Vecchio, tel. 066879825, www.otherwisebookshop.com St Patrick’s English-Language Lending Library Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 0688818727, Sun 10.00-12.30, Tues 10.00-14.00, Wed 15.00-18.00, Thurs 11.00-15.30 Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 3332284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday Service 10.30

Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei SS. Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Roma Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic) Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00

Support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.info Archè (HIV+children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/06582045580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 3381675680

Transport • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157066645-064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it

St Isidore College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic), Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827, www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri” Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022

Chiamaroma 24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Emergency numbers • • • • • • •

Ambulance tel. 118 Carabinieri tel. 112 Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 Fire brigade tel. 115 Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 Police tel. 113 Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355 Wanted in Rome • February 2020 | 63

Single Cycle Master Degree Program

Medicine and Surgery

The new English-taught Master Degree Program is designed using a multidisciplinary approach to train students to become doctors practicing in a diverse biomedical-social culture with interdisciplinary and intercultural working skills. In line with the guiding principles of Campus Bio-Medico University of Rome, the teaching is entirely patient-centred and community-centred. A deep knowledge of ethical issues is applied to the use of advanced medical technology in order to promote health-care through a humanistic approach. Students are provided with strong foundations in scientific methodology, statistics and "evidence based medicine” imparted through means of Problem-Based Learning (PBL) a method that uses complex real-world problems as the vehicle to stimulate student learning of theoretical concepts and principles as opposed to direct presentation of facts and concepts. The program is designed in such a way that its core contents anticipate and integrate the European specifications for global standards in medical education according to the World Federation on Medical Education in international basic standards and quality development of biomedical education (WFME Office, University of Copenhagen, 2007) and the Basic Medical Education WFME Global Standards for Quality Improvement - 2015 Revision (WFME Office Ferney-Voltaire, France Copenhagen, Denmark 2015).

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