Wanted in Rome - January 2024 by Wanted in Rome

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THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME

WHAT'S+ WHERE TO GO IN ROME

ART AND CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT GALLERIES MUSEUMS NEWS

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CONT

EDITORIALS

MISCELLANY

WHAT'S ON

4. ROME UNEARTHS

14. ROME FOR children 16. STREET ART guide 18. MUSEUMS 22. ART GALLERIES 30. CULTURAL VENUES 35. RECIPE 36. puntarella rossa 38. USEFUL NUMBERS

26. EXHIBITIONS 30. Classical 30. OPERA 32. CULTURE NEWS

Andy Devane

8. ART AND SCIENCE IN THE ROME OF URBAN VII Martin Bennett

12. Skiing near Rome GABRIELLE BOLZONI

DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: Marco Venturini EDITRICE: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9 PROGETTO GRAFICO: Dali Studio Srl IMPAGINAZIONE: Simona Castellari STAMPA: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c. DIFFUSIONE: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425. Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131del 6/3/1985. Finito di stampare il 30/12/2023

THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME

Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 16, Numero 1 JANUARY 2024 | € 2,00

ANCIENT DOMUS WITH STUNNING MOSAIC

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WHAT'S+ WHERE TO GO IN ROME

ART AND CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT GALLERIES MUSEUMS NEWS

Villa Adriana, Italia (detail) Watercolour by Pedro Cano Part of the exhibition Teatros at Instituto Cervantes, Rome. For details see page 26.

ENTS 4

ROME UNEARTHS ANCIENT DOMUS WITH STUNNING MOSAIC

ART AND SCIENCE IN THE ROME OF URBAN VIII

EXHIBITIONS

26 OPERA

History

ROME UNEARTHS ANCIENT DOMUS WITH STUNNING MOSAIC DISCOVERY MADE BETWEEN THE ROMAN FORUM AND THE PALATINE HILL Andy Devane

newly discovered ancient Roman domus, unearthed between the Palatine Hill and the Roman Forum, was unveiled by the Italian culture ministry on 12 December.

Archaeologists say that the ancient structure, which dates to the late Republican age, was built in at least three phases between the second half of the second century BC and the end of the first century BC.

The domus features an extraordinary mosaic. Photo Ministero della Cultura.

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Culture officials have hailed the mosaic as "beyond compare". Photo Ministero della Cultura.

The domus is located in the area of the socalled Horrea Agrippiana warehouse complex along the Vicus Tuscus, a trading street that linked the Roman Forum to the river port on the Tiber.

The mosaic depicts figurative scenes of land and sea, including weapons and ships, possibly alluding to a military triumph linked to the owner of the domus, a nobleman who was presumably a senator.

The discovery of the ancient house came to light in 2018 as part of an extensive research project carried out by the Colosseum Archaeological Park.

Centred around an atrium, the domus presents a specus aestivus, a grotto-style space that served as a banquet hall in the summer and was once animated by spectacular water effects.

A highlight of the newly-unearthed domus is a so-called “rustic” mosaic which has been described as “beyond compare” by culture officials. Dating to the last decades of the second century BC, the mosaic is made from sea shells, Egyptian blue tesserae, precious glass, tiny fragments of marble and other coloured stones.

Alfonsina Russo, director of the Colosseum Archaeological Park, said the excavations will conclude early next year, adding: “We will work intensely to make this place, among the most evocative of ancient Rome, accessible to the public as soon as possible.” Last November the restored Ninfeo della Pioggia or Rain Nymphaeum on the Pala-

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The second-century BC mosaic is made from sea shells, Egyptian blue tesserae, precious glass, marble fragments and coloured stones. Photo Ministero della Cultura.

tine Hill reopened to the public after being closed for decades. The nymphaeum is part of the elaborate Farnese Gardens complex, built by the powerful Farnese family in the 16th century, and is located at the centre of the monumental ramp leading up to the Palatine from the Roman Forum.

the public after almost 50 years, following a major restoration by the Colosseum Archaeological Park. The imposing building, which sprawls over a four-hectare site on the Palatine, was closed in the 1970s due to serious structural problems triggered by excavations in the early 20th century.

Decorated with wall paintings and a fountain made of stone and stucco, the vaulted structure is one of the most important testimonies of Roman culture from the late Renaissance and Baroque eras.

The reopening of the arched landmark restored an important link between the Roman Forum and the Palatine Hill, with visitor access from the Farnese Gardens and the ramp of Domitian.

The cave-like nymphaeum was used by the Farnese as a refreshing space for festivities and leisure, especially in the hot summer months where they could enjoy the dim light and the melodious Fontana della Pioggia, designed to mimic the sound of falling rain.

The Domus Tiberiana had drifted into a state of complete abandonment by the Middle Ages before being brought back to life by the Farnese family in the mid-16th century.

In September the Domus Tiberiana imperial palace on the Palatine Hill reopened to 6 | January 2024 • Wanted in Rome

Its reopening last September was hailed by Alfonsina Russo as “another important step towards the full use of the central archaeological area of Rome.”

Culture

ART AND SCIENCE IN THE ROME OF URBAN VIII PALAZZO BARBERINI RETRACES A MARVELLOUS DECADE IN THE 17TH CENTURY Martin Bennett

he first half of Urban VIII’s long papacy (1623-44) saw science and the arts proceed intertwined, the one complementing the other as perhaps never before. The new pope enthusiastically supported both, while new institutions like the Academy of the Lincei numbered astronomists (Galileo), naturalists (Federico

Cesi), mathematicians and master painters (Pietro Cortona) among its members. This happy symbiosis of ‘the Two Cultures’, as they had come to be called, is celebrated in a fascinating exhibition at Palazzo Barberini: celestial and terrestrial globes, sundials, nocturnal clocks, telescopes, busts, architectural designs (Borromini’s), prints and paintings have been arranged to stretch the annus mirabilis of Urban’s accession to a decade. Until, of course, Galileo’s trial (1633) and the Inquisition intervened. But back to 1623 and Galileo’s Il Saggiatore / The Assayer. Room 2 features the work’s giant frontispiece; one might playfully guess magnified a dozen times to invoke the power of Galileo’s telescope compared to Hans Lipperhey’s Dutch prototype. Galileo’s membership of the Lincei Academy and the book’s dedication to the new pope are eminently legible. Back in 1612, in S. Maria Maggiore’s Pauline Chapel, Galileo’s friend, Ludovico Cigoli had used the same instrument to depict Santa Maria standing on a moon pocked with craters and behind her a sun marred with spots, both casting doubt on the Ptolemaic/Aristotelian system whereby all planets are deemed to be perfect spheres.

Gian Lorenzo Bernini's portait of Urban VIII (circa 1631-1632) from the Palazzo Barberini collection.

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Few had objected then. Nor in 1623 did the new Barberini pope, here represented by Gaspari Mola’s bust and a portrait by Bernini, object to Galileo’s book outlining the

Culture basis of his scientific method, the primacy of mathematics, the importance of observation over theory. Peaceful and enthusiastic dialogue seemed to be the order of the day. Galileo was invited to Rome six times to enlighten the pope, a keen sky-watcher himself, on his new findings. Also, changing scale, to discuss perhaps what was now visible under the microscope. Thus Galileo states, on offering his fellow Licean Federico Cisi a version of the same instrument, his satisfaction of studying first a flea, and then “his huge satisfaction in seeing how flies walk in mirrors.” Fleas, flies (the horsefly or tafano was originally the Barberini’s family emblem), and, in a marketing make-over, real and/or heraldic bees. They are all over Rome, on the fountain at the corner of Piazza Barberini, on the sides of the building on the way in. Here they feature in microscopic magnificence in a print from 1624 from Galileo’s fellow academician Francesco Stelluti’s Melissografia. Art and the new optics reconverge. To quote a text of the time, “Bees possess the truth of many realms, of science above all mathematics. They are expert in geometry, circles, squares and angles. No surveyor with all his instruments could better compass their cities about.” One might say, just like Borromini, another Barberini artist and whose architectural designs are here displayed. Enough, one might think, for a single emblem. Except now another key figure enters the Barberini iconography, Tommaso Campanella, priest, scientist, poet, anti-Aristotelian and long-time convict. His embattled face portrayed here is by Francesco Cozza. Published in the same Annus Mirabilis (1623) was Campanella’s Utopian City of the Sun. Urban, had little difficulty, perhaps, in co-opting the Sun an image for himself. He, “the Christian Apollo”, would likewise “fertilise the earth every sunrise to nourish the bees indefatigable labour” while “fuel-

Portrait of Galileo Galilei by Santi di Tito, from the private collection of Alberto Bruschi, Florence.

ling the intellect with the nectar of art and science.” Meanwhile, moving from bees to stars, it was at the same pope’s behest that Campanella was freed from prison. The ex-heretic was also, luckily for him, an astrologer. Once appointed to Urban’s court, he was able to realign Urban’s horoscope after a hostile Spanish faction, via two eclipses in 1628 and 1638, had predicted the French-backed pope’s premature death. As D.P. Walker’s Spiritual and Demonic Magic describes it, two men would seal themselves off in a special room, performing rather dubious astrological rituals, using two candles and five torches to represent the planets. Needless to say, the pope escaped the fate predicted, his papacy being one of history’s longest. Wanted in Rome • January 2024 | 9

Culture observers of the heavens” the original’s base cites Virgil’s Georgics (vv. 164-165), and a good omen for the papacy to come.

Francesco Stelluti's Melissographia (1625) with engravings by Matthias Greuter. Collection Biblioteca Marucelliana in Florence.

From science or pseudo-science to art: the astral conjunction on the day of his accession (5-6 August 1623) is seen (as realigned with Campanella’s help?) in the 11 female figures/constellations surrounding Sapienza in Andrea Sacchi’s 1629-31 ceiling fresco Allegory of Divine Wisdom. Next, from the sun to sundials. In another room pride of place goes to a facsimile of Borromini’s sundial as designed by mathematician and friend of Tycho Brahe, Teodosio Rossi. (The original structure remains in its garden on the Quirinale. The Barberini bees perched on top have since departed, along with other parts, dismantled maybe after Urban’s death and hinting that the Barberini pope was not without opponents.) In this replica the same bees have been restored. Elongated by shadow, the tail of each points the hours across four faces of the same concave shape that would become such a hallmark of Borromini’s architecture (cf. his S. Carlino church up the road) So yet again bees, “Custodians of the doors and 10 | January 2024 • Wanted in Rome

A pity that in 1633, for science anyway, everything would change. Galileo had believed from his meetings with the pope that, regarding the Copernican vision, there was a new tolerance. Thus he went on to write The Dialogue concerning the Two Chief World Systems, using Italian to increase its readership. The giant frontispiece is displayed here. The problem is the third figure on the right – Semplicius, a diehard Aristotelian into whose mouth Galileo puts a series of views that appear simple to downright foolish. Worse, they carry a striking similarity to the pope’s. Urban, till then noted for his tolerance on astronomical matters, reacted with explosive rage, seeing in Galileo’s sarcasm a friendship betrayed. This was no time, the pope must have reasoned, to seem weak. All the more so now, on another front, the Catholic armies fighting in the Thirty Years War in the north were on the defensive. Had Galileo been gifted, like that other papal protégé Bernini, with a sense of diplomacy, could history have turned out differently? Only too ready to accept the sun’s centrality as a metaphor for himself, might the ‘Christian Apollo’ (to use Campanella’s moniker) have come round to accepting the same heavenly body’s centrality as a Copernican fact? To think how in 1620 Pope Urban (then Cardinal Maffeo Barberini) had written a poem – Adulatio Perniciosa – in Galileo’s praise: “When the moon shines forth in the heaven/ and sprinkles its glittering fires/ in a serene arc….they were discovered by your glass, Galileo.” As things happened, Galileo’s book was only taken off the Papal index in 1835; Galileo spent his last eight and half years in confinement. Art and/or here versus science as in a possible exhibition subtitle. Plus, yes, raw emotion. The last room is something of an addendum. If under Urban VIII astronomy, at

Culture

Eight Satyrs Admiring the Anamorphosis of an Elephant by Simon Vouet, c.1625, collection Hessisches Landesmuseum Darmstadt.

least from 1633, stepped backward as the pope ‘lapsed’ into the Aristotelian/Ptolemeic rigidity of his predecessors, under the succeeding Innocent X science, in the form of optics, continued to astound. As here in two works of ‘anamorphic dioptics’: first is a curiously painted plank laid flat. Courtesy of a cylindrical mirror on top watch Louis XIII, the French king, metamorphose from an amorphic if bright-coloured pancake into his true likeness. On a grander scale the room’s back-wall reproduces in its entirety the 1646 mural in Santissima Trinità dei Monti’s cloister. At first sight it seems a curious if inconclusive representation of some geological strata, a sort of wasteland

with some branches and a river thrown in. Until you look left. Take care not to bump into it. That museum doorway is a strategically-placed mirror from which emerges the miraculous figure of Calabrian hermit/saint Francesco di Paola absorbed in prayer. To cite one of the attendants about the exhibition as a whole, “saloni pochi, ma bella ricca.” For those with an hour or so to spare, an exact recommendation indeed. The exhibition La Città del Sole. Arte barocca e pensiero scientifico nella Roma di Urbano VIII can be seen at Palazzo Barberini, Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, until 11 February 2024. Wanted in Rome • January 2024 | 11

Sport Gabrielle Bolzoni

SKIING NEAR ROME

The mountains in central Italy offer skiers in Rome a closer alternative to the Alps

here are many skiing resorts within an easy drive of Rome along the Apennines in Lazio and Abruzzo. Before setting off, check all resort websites for avalanche warnings and snow conditions.

Campocatino

This relatively small ski resort is one of the oldest in the Apennines and is located in the province of Frosinone, about 100 km southeast of Rome. It has 12 km of slopes, located in a karst valley at 1,800 m. It has a chairlift and three ski lifts. The Canalino and the Vermicano slopes are connected and form a good slope of 1,500 m. www.campocatino.eu.

Campo di Giove

Campo di Giove is on the western slope of the Majella natural park in Abruzzo, about 170 km from Rome. A chair lift and a ski lift take skiers up to about 1,800 m. Two bars / restaurants are located along the way. The numerous slopes are of different levels: the Serra Campanile is easy and suitable for kids, the Le Capre, Pareti Rosse and Delle Signore are of medium difficulty, while the Porrara is one of the most fascinating and challenging black runs in the Apennines. There are two school camps, served by conveyor lifts, where children are introduced to skiing and snowboarding. There is also a snow park, a snow playground for young skiers called Kinder Park Giovilandia, and a synthetic ice skating rink open throughout the year. www.comunecampodigiove.it.

Campo Felice

Campo Felice is in the central Apennines of Abruzzo, located within the Sirente-Velino regional natural park, about 113 km from Rome. This ski resort is part of the Tre Nevi area, along with Ovindoli and Campo Imperatore, and is one of the favourite destinations for Romans. It offers 30 km of Alpine skiing of various levels, served by about 10 chair-lifts and several drag lifts for children, which can carry up to 18,000 skiers per hour and guarantee quick access to the slopes. A modern snowmaking system with 250 artificial snow cannons cover over 16 kms. A must for snowboarders is the Swup Snowpark with its jumps and breathtaking passages. www.campofelice.it.

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Campo Imperatore

Campo Imperatore was the first ski resort to be developed in the Apennines. It is on the Gran Sasso mountain about 120 km from Rome and at 2,200 m is one of the highest in Italy. A cableway takes skiers from Fonte Cerreto to Campo Imperatore and two chair lifts take them to five panoramic slopes. It offers 15 km of Alpine skiing and 60 km of Nordic skiing. There is also a snow park with half-pipe and boarder cross slopes for snowboarders. www.ilgransasso.it.

Campo Staffi

Campo Staffi is located in Filettino, 100 km from Rome. Its facilities include two chair lifts, three ski lifts and one manovia, which take skiers to 1,500-2,000 m. A 10-km long path is available for lovers of cross-country skiing. A shuttle service connects Filettino to the nearby villages. www.campostaffi.it.

Monte Livata

The Alpine skiing areas of Monte Livata, located about 75 km east of Rome, include Campo Minio and Monna dell’Orso. The slopes, which run from Fossa dell’Acero to Campo dell’Osso, are famous for cross-country skiing and are particularly suitable for families. Three drag lifts take skiers to the top of the mountain, from where they can choose an Alpine skiing descent or a snowboarding and tubing track. The traditional cross-skiing circuit goes from Campo dell’Osso to Campaegli. www.livata.com.

Ovindoli

Ovindoli is located between Rome and L’Aquila in Abruzzo, about 130 km from the capital in the Sirente-Velino regional natural park. Some of the longest cross-country skiing slopes in central Italy are in the Altopiano delle Rocche which connects Ovindoli with Rocca di Mezzo. The Magnola mountain (1,400-2,220 m), offers 30 km of Alpine skiing, served by modern and efficient lifts. The slopes in the Tre Nevi ski area are of all levels and there are some challenging black runs. There is the Magnola upper park (1,980 m) as well as the lower park, located along the Dolce Vita slope (1,650 m). Ovindoli also has a very efficient snowmaking system, which perfect artificial snow even when natural snow is lacking. www.ovindolimagnola.it.

Pescasseroli

Located in the heart of the Abruzzo national park about 160 km from Rome, this resort offers 20-km of skiing, divided in 14 slopes for all abilities, including two difficult black runs, six red or intermediate slopes and six blue or easy ones for beginners. The 100-km long slope of Alto Sangro crosses the municipalities of Pescasseroli, Pescocostanzo, Aremogna, Pizzalto and Monte Pratello. The resort has three chair lifts and two ski lifts. www.sciareapescasseroli.it.

Roccaraso

Roccaraso, which is about equidistant from Rome and Naples, is one of the major skiing resorts in the Abruzzo. It is the heart of the largest ski area in central Italy, the Alto Sangro area, which includes 160 km of slopes and 36 lifts. Founded in 1910, Roccaraso’s skiing resort still hosts prestigious international competitions. Its numerous slopes include some that are suitable for children. www.roccaraso.net.

Terminillo

This limestone mountain (2,215 m) is one of the few resorts north of Rome, close to Rieti and about 100 km from the capital. Since it was made fashionable by Mussolini in the 1930s it has been a tourist destination for passionate skiers, and it is still one of the favourite winter resorts for Rome’s skiers. It has one cable car, three chair lifts and a conveyor belt, as well as over 40 km of steep slopes for Alpine skiing and 20 km of perfectly beaten Nordic skiing slopes, which are also illuminated at night. Its variegated flora and fauna make it an ideal place for excursions, nature trails and other sporting activities, such as hiking and mountain races. It has a high-altitude riding school with horse-drawn sleds, and the possibility to rent powerful quads, which offer adventurous excursions on the snowy paths. www.monteterminillo.net.

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ARTandSEEK English-language cultural workshops and visits to museums and exhibitions for children in Rome. For event details tel. 3315524440, email artandseekforkids@gmail.com, or see website, www.artandseekforkids.com. Bioparco Rome's Bioparco has over 1,000 animals and offers special activities for children and their families at weekends and during the summer. When little legs get tired, take a ride around the zoo on an electric train. Open daily. Viale del Giardino Zoologico 20 (Villa Borghese), tel. 063608211, www.bioparco.it. Bowling Silvestri This sports club has an 18-hole mini golf course, with good facilities for children aged 4 and over, adults and disabled children.

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There are also tennis courts, a table tennis room and a pizzeria. Via G. Zoega 6 (Monteverde/Bravetta), tel. 0666158206, www.bowlingsilvestri.com. Casa del Parco Eco-friendly workshops, in Italian, in which kids can learn about nature and how to care for the environment. Located in the Valle dei Casali nature park. Via del Casaletto 400, tel. 3475540409, www.valledeicasali.com. Casina di Raffaello Play centre in Villa Borghese offering a programme of animated lectures, creative workshops, cultural projects and educational activities for children from the age of three. Tues-Fri 14.30, Sat-Sun 11.00 and 17.00. Viale della Casina di Raffaello (Porta Pinciana), tel. 060608, www.casinadiraffaello.it.

Cinecittà World This 25-hectare theme park dedicated to the magic of cinema features high-tech attractions, real and virtual roller coasters, aquatic shows such as Super Splash, giant elephant rides and attractions with cinematic special effects. Located about 10 km from EUR, south of Rome. Via di Castel Romano, S.S. 148 Pontina, www.cinecittaworld.it. Climbing Associazione Sportiva Climbing Side. Basic and competitive climbing courses for 6-18 year olds. Tues, Thurs. Via Cristoforo Colombo 1800 (Torrino/Mostacciano), tel. 3356525473. Explora The 2,000-sqm Children’s Museum organises creative workshops for small children in addition to holding regular animated lectures, games and meetings with authors of children’s books. Via Flaminia 80/86, tel. 063613776, www.mdbr.it. Go-karting Club Kartroma is a circuit with go-karts for children over 9 and two-seater karts for an adult and a child under 8. Closed Mon. For details see website. Via della Muratella (Ponte Galeria), tel. 0665004962, www.kartroma.it. Gymboree This children's centre caters to little people aged from 0-5 years, offering Play and Learn activities, music, art, baby play, school skills and even English theatre arts. Gymboree @ Chiostro del Bramante (Piazza Navona), Via Arco della Pace 5, www.gymbo.it. Hortis Urbis Association providing hands-on horticultural workshops for children, usually in Italian but sometimes in English, in the Appia Antica park. Weekend activities include sowing seeds, cultivating plants and harvesting vegetables. Junior gardeners must be accompanied by a parent or guardian. Via Appia Antica 42/50, www.hortusurbis.it. Il Nido Based in Testaccio, this association supports expectant mothers, parents, babies and small children. It holds regular educational and social events, many of them in English. Via Marmorata 169 (Testaccio), tel. 0657300707, www.associazioneilnido.it.

Luneur Located in the southern EUR suburb, Luneur is Italy’s oldest amusement park. Highlights include ferris wheel, roller coaster, carousel horses, bamboo tunnel, maze, giant swing and a Wizard of Oz-style farm. Aimed at children aged up to 12. Entry fee €2.50, payable in person or online. Via delle Tre Fontane 100, www.luneurpark.it. Rainbow Magicland The 38 attractions at Rome's biggest theme park are divided into three categories: brave, everyone, and kids. Highlights include down-hill rafting, a water roller coaster through Mayan-style pyramids, and the Shock launch coaster. Located in Valmonte, south-east of the capital. Via della Pace, 00038 Valmontone, www.rainbowmagicland.it. Time Elevator A virtual reality, multi-sensorial 5-D cinema experience with a motion-base platform, bringing the history of Rome to life in an accessible and fun way. The time-machine's commentary is available in six languages including English. Daily 11.00-19.30. €12 adults, €9 kids. Via dei SS. Apostoli 20, tel. 0669921823, www.time-elevator.it. Zoomarine This amusement and aquatic park outside Rome offers performances with dolphins, parrots and other animals for children of all ages. It is also possible to rent little play carts. Children under 10 must be accompanied by an adult. Via Casablanca 61, Torvaianica, Pomezia, tel. 0691534, www.zoomarine.it.

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Rome’s artart capital continues to to grow with newnew murals by important Italian and Rome'sreputation reputationasasananimportant importantstreet street capital continues grow with murals by important Italian international streetstreet artistsartists appearing all the all time. the works located the suburbs, often far often from the and international appearing theMost time.ofMost of theare works are in located in the suburbs, far centre. Here is where to is find Rome’s mainthe street artstreet projects murals. from the centre. Here where to find main artand projects and murals around Rome. Esquilino Esquilino Murals Murals byby Alice Alice Pasquini, Pasquini, Gio Gio Pistone, Nicola Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Alessandrini, Diamond. Casa Casa dell’Architettura, dell'Architettura, Diamond. PiazzaMafredo Manfredo Fanti 47. Piazza Fanti 47.

Marconi Marconi The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo Gestito dai Rom), a project by French Gestito dai Rom), a project by French street artistSeth Seth is located in a street artist is located in a former former soap factory Via Antonio soap factory on Viaon Antonio AvogaAvogadro, opposite dro, opposite Ostiense'sOstiense’s landmark Gasometro. For For details see landmark Gasometro. details see www.999contemporary.com. www.999contemporary.com.

Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz Metropoliz This This former former meat meat factory factory inin the the outskirts of Rome is nowa astreet street outskirts of Rome is now art art museumasaswell well as as being museum being home hometoto some200 200squatting squatters,migrants. many of The them some migrants. The Museo dell’Altrodi e Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove dell’Altroveor diMAAM, Metropoliz, or MAAM, Metropoliz, is only open is only open on Saturdays, and on Saturdays, and features the work features the work of more than 300 of more than 300 artists including artists including Edoardo Kobra, Gio Edoardo Kobra, and GioDiamond. Pistone, Pistone, Sten&Lex See Sten&Lex, Pablo Echaurren and MAAM Facebook page for details. Borondo. See MAAM Via Prenestina 913. Facebook page for details. Via Prenestina 913. Ostiense Ostiense Fronte Del by by Blu.Blu. Via Via del Porto Fronte Del Porto Porto del Fluviale. Porto Fluviale. Fish’n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via Fish’n’Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale. del Porto Fluviale. Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali. Magazzini Shelley by Generali. Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Via Ostiense. Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense. underpass, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Pigneto Ostiense. Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Pigneto Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71. Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.

16 | January 2024 • Wanted in Rome

Via Via Fanfulla Fanfulla da da Lodi. Lodi. 2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio. Fortebraccio. 2501 mural on Via Blu Blu Landscape Landscape by Sten Sten & & Lex. Lex. Via Via Francesco Baracca. Francesco Baracca. Prati Prati Anna Magnani portrait by Diavù. Anna Magnani portrait by Diavù. Nuovo Nuovo Mercato Trionfale, Via Mercato Trionfale, Via Andrea Doria. Andrea Doria. theSabotino. bear by Daniza the bear byDaniza ROA. Via ROA. Via Sabotino. Primavalle Primavalle The Roadkill Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Magee. Via Via The by Fintan Cristoforo Numai. Cristoforo Numai. Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo. Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo. Quadraro Quadraro Tunnel murals andand Gio Tunnel muralsby byMr MrTHOMS THOMS Pistone. Via Decio Mure.Mure. Gio Pistone. Via Decio Nido di di Vespe ViaVia del Nido VespebybyLucamaleonte. Lucamaleonte. Monte del Grano. del Monte del Grano. Baby Hulk by Ron English. Via dei Baby PisoniHulk 89. by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89. Rebibbia Rebibbia Murals by byBlu. Blu.Via ViaCiciliano Ciciliano and and Via Via Murals Palombini (Casal Palombini (Casaldè dèPazzi). Pazzi). Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Metro B station. Metro B station. S.S. Basilio Basilio SanBa SanBa features features large-scale large-scale works on on the façades façades of in the of social-housing social-housingblocks blocks the disadvantaged north-east suburb of in the disadvantaged north-east S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regenerasuburb of S. Basilio near Rebibbia. tion project includes works by Italian The project artistsregeneration Agostino Iacurci, Hitnesincludes and Blu works by Italian artists alongside Spain's Liqen. ViaAgostino Maiolati, Iacurci, Hitnes and BluVia alongside Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Arcevia, Via Treia.Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Spain’s Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, S. Giovanni Via Treia. Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via S. Giovanni Apulia corner of Via Farsalo. Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.

It’s aa New NewDay Daybyby Alice Pasquini. It’s Alice Pasquini. Via Via Anton Ludovico. Anton Ludovico. S. Lorenzo S. Lorenzo Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli. Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli. Feminicide mural by Elisa Feminicide mural by Elisa Caracciolo. Caracciolo. Via Dei Sardi. Via Dei Sardi. Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159. Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159. Mural by by Agostino AgostinoIacurci Iacurci on Mural on the the Istituto Superiore di Lattanzio, Vittorio Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Via Aquilonia. Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia. S. Pietro S. Pietro Uma Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione Uma Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione di S. di S. Pietro, Clivo di Monte del Pietro, Clivo di Monte del Gallo. Gallo. Testaccio Testaccio Hunted byby ROA. ViaVia Galvani. HuntedWolf Wolf ROA. Galvani. #KindComments by by Alice Pasquini, Via #KindComments Alice Pasquini, Volta, Testaccio market. Via Volta, Testaccio market. Tor Pignattara Tor Pignattara Dulk. Via ViaAntonio AntonioTempesta. Tempesta. Dulk. Etnik.Via ViaBartolomeo Bartolomeo Perestrello Etnik. Perestrello 51. 51. Coﬀee Break Etam Cru. Via Coffee Break by Etamby Cru. Via Ludovico Pavoni. Ludovico Pavoni. Tom by Jef Via Gabrio TomSawyer Sawyer by Aerosol. Jef Aerosol. Via Serbelloni. Gabrio Serbelloni. Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema PasoliniVia by Acqua Diavù.Bullicante. Former Cinema Impero, Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Galeazzo Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Alessi. Herakut. Capua 14. GaleazzoVia Alessi. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Herakut. Via Capua 14. Oddi 6. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Tor Marancia Tor Big Marancia The City Life scheme features 14-m The Big City Life scheme tall murals by 22 Italian and features interna14-m tall murals by 22 Italian and tional street artists including Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia andartists Jerico.including The idea international street was to transform area's of Mr Klevra, Seth,the Gaia andblocks Jerico. flats into an open-air art museum. Via The idea was to transform the area’s Tor Marancia. www.bigcity.life.it. blocks of ﬂats into an open-air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. For full details see website, www.bigcity.life.it.

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth. Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

Wanted in Rome • January 2024 | 17

ROME'S MAJOR

MUSEUMS IT IS ADVISABLE TO CHECK WEBSITES FOR VISITING DETAILS DETAILS. IN SOME CASES RESERVATIONS ARE REQUIRED. VATICAN MUSEUMS Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums

Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

STATE MUSEUMS Baths of Diocletian

Borghese Museum

Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

18 | January 2024 • Wanted in Rome

Crypta Balbi

Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's modern art collection. Mon closed.

MAXXI

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS Casa di Goethe

CITY MUSEUMS

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Centrale Montemartini

Chiostro Del Bramante

Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035 www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Capitoline Museums

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Galleria Colonna

Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun. Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.

MACRO

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.

MATTATOIO

Giorgio de Chirico House Museum

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking.

Keats-Shelley House

Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking.

Museo storico della Liberazione

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it. Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from 1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.

Museo Canonica

Palazzo Merulana

Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).

Museo Napoleonico

Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.

Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it. Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection, including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation. 09.00-20.00. Tues closed.

A C C A D E M I A N A Z I O N A L E D I S A N TA C E C I L I A Orchestra and Chorus Ludwig Wicki

4, 5, 7 JANUARY

conductor

Amadeus © Musacchio, Ianniello&Pasqualini

Screening of Milos Forman ﬁlm with live music

ROME'S MAJOR

MUSEUMS

IT IS ADVISABLE TO CHECK WEBSITES FOR VISITING DETAILS DETAILS. IN SOME CASES RESERVATIONS ARE REQUIRED.

Myung-Whun Chung

JANUARY / 2024

11, 12, 13 VATICAN MUSEUMSJANUARY

Crypta Balbi

Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Patrons of the Arts in the19, Vatican 18, 20Museums

Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private JANUARY behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

STATE MUSEUMS Baths of Diocletian

Borghese Museum

Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed. Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. 25,Sculptures 26, 27by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. JANUARY 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

conductor

Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeoBeethoven logia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages Symphony No. 6 “Pastoral” on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Stravinsky Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.

The Rite of Spring Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Zweden Viale delle BelleJaap Arti 131, van tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's modern art collection. Mon closed. conductor

MAXXI

Bruckner

Via Guido Reni Symphony 6, tel. 063210181, No.www. 5 fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Kavakos Italy's museum Leonidas of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For detailsconductor see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it. Kirill Gerstein

Palazzo Altemps piano

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Haas Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. Study for strings 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Mozart Piano Concerto K 466 Palazzo Barberini Via delle QuattroProkof’ev Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century Symphony No. 6

Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed. di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Palazzo Massimo alle Terme Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosAUDITORIUM PARCO DELLA MUSICA / SANTACECILIA.IT Largo MORRICONE di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the ENNIO niculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; SOCI FONDATORI DI DIRITTO SOCIO FONDATORE PUBBLICO SOCI FONDATORIcoins PRIVATIand antiquities PARTNER ISTITUZIONALE SPONSORRomano, 2023 from the Museo Nazionale last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English Stato Italiano | Regione Lazio | Roma Capitale Camera di Commercio Roma Enel | BNL BNP Paribas Eni Aeroporti di Roma including the| Mapei Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed. and Italian. Ferrovie dello Stato Italiane | Terna PARTNER ISTITUZIONALE 2023 Cassa Depositi e Prestiti

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS Casa di Goethe

CITY MUSEUMS

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Centrale Montemartini

Chiostro Del Bramante

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035 www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Capitoline Museums

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Galleria Colonna

MACRO

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.

MATTATOIO

Giorgio de Chirico House Museum

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Keats-Shelley House

Museo storico della Liberazione

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Museo Canonica

Palazzo Merulana

Museo Napoleonico

Wanted in Rome • January 2024 | 21

ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY

ART GALLERIES

1/9 Unosunove

1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.

A.A.M. Architettura

Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ff-maam.it.

Contemporary Cluster

Multidisciplinary venue devoted to visual art, design, architecture and fashion design at Palazzo Brancaccio. Via Merulana 248, tel. 0631709949, www.contemporarycluster.com.

C.R.E.T.A.

Cultural association promoting ceramics and the visual, humanistic, musical and culinary arts through workshops, exhibitions and artist residencies. Palazzo Delfini, Via dei Delfini 17, tel. 0689827701, www.cretarome.com.

Dorothy Circus Gallery

Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.

Ex Elettrofonica

This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.

Fondazione Memmo

Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.

Fondazione Pastificio Cerere

This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pastificiocerere.com.

Fondazione Volume!

The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.

22 | January 2024 • Wanted in Rome

Franz Paludetto

Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.

Frutta

This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via dei Salumi 53 tel. 0645508934, www.fruttagallery.com.

Gagosian Gallery

The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

GALLA

Exhibition space designed to showcase original, unconventional art works at affordable prices by artists working in various fields. Via degli Zingari 28, tel. 3476552515, www.facebook.com/GALLAmonti.

Galleria Alessandro Bonomo

Gallery showing the works of important Italian and international visual artists. Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858, www.bonomogallery.com.

Galleria Valentina Bonomo

Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works specifically for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte

Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Galleria della Tartaruga

Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.

Galleria Il Segno

Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.

Galleria Mucciaccia

Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.

Galleria Russo

This historic gallery holds group and solo exhibitions showcasing the work of major 20th-century Italian painters alongside promising new Italian artists. Via Alibert 20, tel. 066789949, www.galleriarusso.it.

Galleria Varsi

A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.

Pian de Giullari

Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.

Plus Arte Puls

A dynamic gallery promoting street culture and contemporary art movements. Via di Affogalasino 34, www.galleriavarsi.it.

Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls.com.

Gavin Brown's Enterprise

Sala 1

New York gallerist Gavin Brown shows the work of international artists at his Trastevere gallery in a deconsecrated church dating to the eighth century. S. Andrea de Scaphis, Via dei Vascellari 69, www.gavinbrown.biz.

Il Ponte Contemporanea

Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via Giuseppe Acerbi 31A, tel. 0653098768, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.

La Nuova Pesa

Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.

Magazzino d’Arte Moderna

Contemporary art gallery that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.

Monitor

This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, t el. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.

Nero Gallery

Space dedicated to showcasing young international artists working in pop surrealism, lowbrow art, dark art, comic art and surrealism. Via Castruccio Castracane 9, tel. 0627801418, www.nerogallery.com.

Nomas Foundation

Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.

Operativa Arte Contemporanea

This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.

S.T. Foto libreria galleria

Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri

The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.

T293

The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it.

The Gallery Apart

This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.

TraleVolte

Contemporary art gallery focusing on the relationship between art and architecture, hosting solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org.

Von Buren Contemporary

Rome-based gallery specialising in affordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via Giulia 13, tel. 3351633518, www.vonburencontemporary.com.

Wunderkammern

This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www.wunderkammern.net.

Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin

Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria offers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it.

Wanted in Rome • January 2024 | 23

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WHAT’S ON

City Whyspers by Alice Pasquini, part of the Kaleidoscope exhibition at Rosso20sette. See page 26.

Wanted in Rome • January 2024 | 25

EXHIBITIONS ALICE PASQUINI: KALEIDOSCOPE 2 DEC-20 JAN

Rosso20sette arte contemporanea presents an exhibition of installations, animation, canvases and photograms by Rome street artist Alice Pasquini. The show is described as a journey that explores emotions and human relationships in cities, evolving stories in continuous relationship with the moving urban environment. The exhibition also provides insights into Pasquini’s creative process and artistic techniques. See cover of this edition. Rosso20sette arte contemporanea, Via del Sudario 39, www.rosso27.com.

EMOTION

29 NOV-7 JAN 2025

Rome’s Chiostro del Bramante presents a new contemporary art exhibition devoted to the range of emotions that inspire artists as well as the feelings that artworks conjure up in the spectator. Curated by Danilo Eccher, the exhibition features works by Italian and international artists including AES+F, Mat Collishaw, Subodh Gupta, Carsten Höller, Eva Jospin, Kimsooja, Luigi Mainolfi, Masbedo, Annette Messager, Paul Morrison, Luigi Ontani, Tony Oursler, Piero Pizzi Cannella, Laure Prouvost, Pietro Ruffo, Alessandro Sciaraffa, Gregor Schneider, Paolo Scirpa, Nedko Solakov and Adrian Tranquilli. Chiostro del Bramante, Via Arco della Pace 5, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

FIDIA

24 NOV-5 MAY

The Capitoline Museums pay tribute to Phidias, hailed as the greatest Greek sculptor of the classical age, with an exhibition of masterpieces by the fifth-century BC genius. The exhibition includes around 100 works including some ancient Greek artefacts that have never left their museums in Greece until now, as well as bronzes, paintings, manuscripts, drawings and multimedia

26 | January 2024 • Wanted in Rome

Inverso Mundus by AES+F in the Emotion exhibition at Chiostro del Bramante.

installations. Among the masterpieces on display are two original fragments of the Parthenon frieze, on loan from the Acropolis Museum in Athens; a vase engraved with the inscription Pheidiou eimi (I am Phidias) from the Archaeological Museum of Olympia; and the so-called Strangford Shield, a replica of the shield of the Athena in the Parthenon, on loan from the British Museum. The exhibition in Rome inaugurates a cycle of five shows under the title The Great Masters of Ancient Greece. Villa Caffarelli, Capitoline Museums, www.museicapitolini.org.

DACIA: L’ULTIMA FRONTIERA DELLA ROMANITÀ 21 NOV-21 APRIL

The Museo Nazionale Romano at the Baths of Diocletian presents the largest and most prestigious exhibition of archaeological finds organised by Romania abroad in recent decades. The exhibition retraces the historical and cultural development of the Dacian civilisation from the eighth century BC to the eighth century AD. Around 1,000 objects from 47 Romanian museums will be presented, as well as from the National Museum of History in the Republic of Moldova, exhibited for the first time alongside some finds from the National Roman Museum. The exhibition features priceless artefacts including the marble Glycon serpent from Tomis, the Golden Helmet of Coţofenești, the bronze Celtic helmet from Ciumeşti, and the Pietroasele Treasure. Terme di Diocleziano, Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, www. museonazionaleromano.beniculturali.it/terme-di-diocleziano.

PEDRO CANO: TEATROS 17 NOV-27 JAN

Spanish artist Pedro Cano stages a solo exhibition at Instituto Cervantes devoted to ancient Greek and Roman theatres in sites including Nabataeans, Petra, Taormina and Villa Adriana. Titled Teatros, the show features 16 large format watercolours of ancient theatres and 24 works dedicated to Hadrian’s Villa in Tivoli. Also on display are sketches of the costumes created for Maurizio Scaparro’s 1989 theatrical production Memorie di Adriano. See cover this edition. Instituto Cervantes, Piazza Navona 91, www. roma.cervantes.es/it.

TOLKIEN: UOMO, PROFESSORE, AUTORE 15 NOV-11 FEB

Italy will mark the 50th anniversary of the death of British fantasy writer J.R.R. Tolkien with a major exhibition at the National Gallery of Modern Art (GNAM) in Rome. The show comprises more than 150 works including photographs, documents, letters and virtual reconstructions of the first editions of The Lord of the Rings books from which the blockbuster fantasy trilogy by director Peter Jackson is based. GNAM, Viale delle Belle Arti 131, www.lagallerianazionale.com.

THE TOUCH OF PYGMALION: RUBENS AND SCULPTURE IN ROME 14 NOV-18 FEB

Galleria Borghese stages an exhibition that examines how the Flemish Baroque master Peter Paul

Rubens was affected by his travels in Italy in the early 17th century. During his time in Italy Rubens was profoundly influenced by Titian and Caravaggio as well as Renaissance masters Michelangelo, Raphael and Leonardo da Vinci. He also studied classical Greek and Roman art and copied works of the Italian masters, animating the antique in a style that would become known as Baroque. The exhibition investigates how the artist’s work took on a new and decisive force in the years following his return to his homeland. Exhibition organisers say the show “highlights the extraordinary contribution made by Rubens to a new conception of the antique, of the concepts of natural and imitation, on the threshold of the Baroque.” Galleria Borghese, Piazzale Scipione Borghese 5, www.galleriaborghese. beniculturali.it.

ANSLEM KIEFER 10 NOV-31 JAN

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill presents a solo exhibition by German painter and sculptor Anselm Kiefer, one of the world’s most acclaimed contemporary artists. The exhibition features eight new monumental paintings on the theme of islands and the sea and one new sculpture – all works created in the last two years. A symbol of isolation, exploration and the desire for con-

nection, the island theme has fascinated Kiefer since he was a boy. In the exhibition, Kiefer examines these concepts by drawing inspiration from various mythologies, literature and his own personal experiences. With references to Homer, Alexander the Great, the Bible, Ludwig van Beethoven and Paul Celan, Kiefer’s exhibition explores themes related to the artist’s decades-long career, including myth, history and human knowledge. Galleria Lorcan O’Neill, Vicolo de’ Catinari 3, www.lorcanoneill.com.

VAN GOGH EXPERIENCE 28 OCT-31 MARCH

Rome hosts an immersive, multimedia exhibition dedicated to the world of Vincent Van Gogh. The experience involves the use of video mapping and multimedia projections to conjure up the swirling landscapes, starry nights and sunflowers painted by the Dutch artist. Organisers say that visitors will be “living protagonists” in the artist’s paintings: “under your feet the pebbles he painted, between your fingers the dazzling yellow of his thousand sunflowers.” Thanks to virtual reality technology, visitors will also have the chance to see the world “through Van Gogh’s eyes”. The show, which does not include original paintings by the artist, is presented by Next Exhibition and is held at the former Cin-

Rome pays tribute to Phidias, hailed as the greatest Greek sculptor of the classical age, with an exhibition at the Capitoline Museums.

Villa Adriana by Pedro Cano, part of an exhibition at Instituto Cervantes.

ema Avila on Corso d’Italia 37d. For tickets and visiting times see website, www.nextmuseum.net.

ESCHER

31 OCT-1 APRIL

Palazzo Bonaparte displays 300 works by Maurits Cornelius Escher (1898-1972) in what organisers boast is the “largest and most complete exhibition ever dedicated” to the Dutch graphic artist. The blockbuster show includes the artist’s best known images as well as numerous works never shown in public before. Highlights include Hand with reflecting sphere (1935), Bond of Union (1956), Day and Night (1938) and Metamorphosis II (1939). Escher is famed for his mathematically-inspired woodcuts, lithographs and mezzotints featuring visually stunning designs that explore the seemingly impossible limits of architecture and infinity. Fascinated by geometrical shapes, Escher distorted perspective and parallax to create scenes in which the eye is deceived, often leaving the viewer confounded. The artist travelled extensively in Italy, living with his wife and son in Rome’s Monteverde district from 1923 until the fascist political climate prompted the family’s departure to Switzerland in 1935. Piazza Venezia 5, www.mostrepalazzobonaparte.it. Wanted in Rome • January 2024 | 27

Galleria Borghese stages a major exhibition devoted to Rubens. The Thracian Golden Helmet of Coţofenești is on display in the Dacia exhibition at the Baths of Diocletian.

FAVOLOSO CALVINO 14 OCT-4 FEB

On the centenary of the birth of Italo Calvino, an exhibition at the Scuderie del Quirinale celebrates the Italian writer and his relationship with the arts. The exhibition highlights the creative path of the writer, who died in 1985, by displaying art that inspired his writings, imagination and theories. The show comprises more than 200 works including paintings, sculptures, drawings, illustrations by artists from the Renaissance to today, medieval illuminated manuscripts and tapestries. The show includes masterpieces by artists including Carpaccio, de Chirico, Gnoli, Melotti, Escher and Paul Klee alongside portraits of the writer by photographers

Carla Cerati and Sebastião Salgado. The exhibition also includes many original volumes and first editions of Calvino’s books, displayed with some of the author’s most famous quotations. Ogranisers say the art on display illustrates Calvino’s journey through life including “choices, political and civil commitment, places and above all literary production”. Calvino is best known internationally for his Cosmicomics collection of short stories (1965) and the novels Invisible Cities (1972) and If on a winter’s night a traveler (1979). Scuderie del Quirinale, Via Ventiquattro Maggio 16, www.scuderiequirinale.it.

DON MCCULLIN IN ROME 10 OCT-28 JAN

Rome’s first major retrospective dedicated to the work of the internationally celebrated British photojournalist Don McCullin will be

28 | January 2024 • Wanted in Rome

held at Palazzo delle Esposizioni. Regarded as one of the most significant war photographers of modern times, McCullin has documented the consequences of conflicts in war-torn regions around the world and is also known for his powerful images of homeless people in the UK. Comprising more than 200 photographs printed by McCullin himself, the exhibition’s themes include early work in London and Berlin, war, international travel, British landscapes and still life, and the Roman Empire. Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Via Nazionale 194, www.palazzoesposizioni.it.

HELMUT NEWTON: LEGACY 6 OCT-3 MARCH

Rome’s Ara Pacis Museum presents an exhibition featuring around 250 photographs by the famed photographer. Newton (1920-2004) was one of the most influential and controversial photographers of the 20th century, achieving international fame in the 1970s as a celebrity photographer while working for Vogue magazine. His images were often of a seductive, even gritty nature, and he favoured working in the street over the studio. The exhibition in Rome will feature a selection of his most iconic images alongside previously unpublished works, providing insights into this work and creative process. The exhibition spans Newton’s entire sixdecade career, from fashion magazine covers to his celebrated Big Nudes series. Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta, www.arapacis.it.

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CLASSICAL ACCADEMIA NAZIONALE DI S. CECILIA AMADEUS 4, 5, 7 JAN

Ludwig Wicki conducts the orchestra and chorus of the Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia in Amadeus with a screening of Miloš Forman’s film with live performance. 4 Jan 19.30, 5 Jan 20.30, 7 Jan 18.00. Sala S. Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Musica.

ARCADI VOLODOS 10 JAN

Pianist Arcadi Volodos performs music by Schubert, Schumann and Liszt. 20.30 Sala Sinopoli, Auditorium Parco della Musica.

MYUNG-WHUN CHUNG 11, 12, 13 JAN

Myung-Whun Chung conducts the orchestra of the Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia performing music by Beethoven and Stravinskij. 11 Jan 19.30, 12 Jan 20.30, 13

Accademia Nazionale di S. Cecilia stages Amadeus.

Jan 18.00. Sala S. Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Musica.

QUARTUOR EBÉNE 17 JAN

Quatuor Ebéne performs music by Haydn, Bartók and Schubert. 20.30 Sala Sinopoli, Auditorium Parco della Musica.

JAP VAN ZWEDEN 18, 19, 20 JAN

Jaap van Zweden conducts the orchestra of the Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia in a performance of Bruckner’s Sinfonia n. 5. 18 Jan 19.30, 19 Jan 20.30, 20 Jan 18.00. Sala S. Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Musica.

VADO AL MASSIMO 22 JAN

Performance by the JuniOrchestra of the Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia and Massimo Youth Orchestra, conducted by Simone Genuini. 19.00 Sala S. Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Musica.

EVGENY KISSIN 23 JAN

Piannist Evgeny Kissin performs music by Beethoven, Brahms, Rachmaninoff and Prokofiev. 20.30 Sala S. Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Musica. All concerts take place in the Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30. For details of tickets and performance times see S. Cecilia website, www.santacecilia.it.

OPERA THE MAGIC FLUTE 12-21 JAN

Teatro dell’Opera di Roma presents The Magic Flute (Die Zauberflöte), an opera in two acts by Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart to a German libretto by Emanuel Schikaneder which premiered in Vienna in 1791 and was first performed in Rome in 1937. Michele Spotti conducts and Damiano Michieletto directs the orchestra and choir led by Ciro Visco in this co-production by Teatro La Fenice in Venice and Teatro del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino. Juan Francisco Gatell

30 | January 2024 • Wanted in Rome

Teatro dell'Opera di Roma poster for Die Zauberflöte or The Magic Flute.

and Cameron Becker alternate in the role of Tamino, with Sprecher played by Zachary Altman and Pa-

pageno by Markus Werba / Äneas Humm. Teatro Costanzi, Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it.

Wanted in Rome • January 2024 | 31

CULTURE NEWS ITALIAN OPERA SINGING WINS UNESCO RECOGNITION

Italian opera singing has been added to the UNESCO list of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, the UN cultural agency announced on 7 December. Culture minister Gennaro Sangiuliano hailed the recognition of Italian opera singing as “a great success for all of Italy and a recognition of its history”. Beatrice Venezi, music advisor to the culture minister, said the recognition “makes us proud as an opera community and as Italians since this living art form is a fundamental pillar of our culture.” Italian opera singing is “a physiologically controlled way of singing that enhances the carrying power of the voice in acoustic spaces such as auditoriums, amphitheatres, arenas and churches”, UNESCO said in a statement. Italian opera singing skills “are transmitted orally between a maestro and pupil”, UNESCO said, in an art that is associated with “specific facial expressions and body gestures and involves a combination of music, drama, acting and staging.” Last year Italy’s UNESCO commission approved Italian opera as a candidate for the UNESCO list of intangible cultural heritage after rejecting a bid by Italian espresso coffee. Home to globally renowned composers including Monteverdi, Puccini, Verdi and Rossini, Italy introduced the world to opera in 1597 with the premiere of Jacopo Peri’s Dafne in Florence.

Naples art police with the recovered Botticelli painting.

for protection of Italy’s cultural heritage. Botticelli, the Florentine artist famed for La Primavera and Birth of Venus, is believed to have painted the artwork in the late 15th century. The painting was originally housed in a church in the town of Santa Maria la Carità but at some stage after the turn of the 20th century it was entrusted to a family in nearby Gragnano. The canvas was listed by the Italian state in 1931 and before it slipped off the radar in the 1970s and fell into disrepair. Authorities are investigating whether in fact the work belongs to the family, who handed it down from generation to generation, or to the state. Once restored the painting is expected to go on public display in Naples.

GARRONE FILM IO CAPITANO UP FOR GOLDEN GLOBE

Matteo Garrone. Photo: GIO_LE / Shutterstock.com.

Teatro Massimo Vittorio Emanuele in Palermo. Photo: Angelo Cordeschi / Shutterstock.com.

ITALY RECOVERS LOST BOTTICELLI IN NAPLES

A painting by Renaissance master Sandro Botticelli, said to have been missing from state records for 50 years, was recovered recently from a private home in the Naples area. The newly resurfaced painting of the Madonna and Child is in very poor condition and will undergo a delicate, year-long restoration overseen by the Italian culture ministry. The artwork, valued at around €100 million, was reportedly handed over voluntarily to the Naples branch of the Carabinieri unit

32 | January 2024 • Wanted in Rome

The migration-themed Italian movie Io Capitano by renowned director Matteo Garrone is up for a Golden Globe award in January. Based on the real-life story of the perilous journey of two young Senegalese men from Dakar to Italy, Garrone’s film is also Italy’s pick as an Oscar contender for Best International Film next spring. The critically-acclaimed movie, which stars Moustapha Fall and Seydou Sarr, will be vying for a Golden Globe on 7 January in the Best Film – non-English language category. Garrone’s film is up against Anatomy of a Fall, Society of Snow, Fallen Leaves, The Zone of Interest, and Past Lives. The Italian-language movie had its world premiere in September at the Venice Film Festival where Garrone won best director, Sarr won best young star, and Claudia Cravotta won best production director.

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lassical lassical

The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a definitive list of all the music that is available in the city. The following is a list of the main musical There are also concerts in many of the associations in Rome but it is not a definitive churches and sometimes in the museums. list of all the music that is available in the city. There are also concerts in many of the Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della churches and sometimes in the museums. Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Auditorium Conciliazione, ViaP. de della Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Accademia Filarmonica Teatro Auditorium Parco della Romana, Musica, Viale P. de Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro starts on 15 Oct Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season concerts Parco della Musica. The startsat onAuditorium 15 Oct newAccademia season startsS. on 5Cecilia, Oct www.santacecilia.it. All

concerts Universitaria at Auditorium Parco della Musica. Istituzione dei Concerti, AulaThe newUniversità season starts on 5 Oct www.concertiiuc.it Magna, la Sapienza,

Istituzione Universitaria deiGonfalone Concerti,32a, Aula Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it www.oratoriogonfalone.com Oratorio delMethodist Gonfalone, Via delPiazza Gonfalone 32a, RomeConcerts, Church, Ponte www.oratoriogonfalone.com S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it RomeConcerts, Piazza Ponte Roma Sinfonietta, Methodist AuditoriumChurch, Ennio Morricone, S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Roma Auditorium Roma Tre Sinfonietta, Orchestra, some concertsEnnio are atMorricone, Teatro Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others at Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are are at Teatro the Aula Magna, Piazza Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, 8, Palladium, Bartolomeo Romano Universita Roma Tre, Via while Ostienze teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, others234, are at www.r30.org the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Tre,festivals Via Ostienze 234, There are oftenRoma concerts, and opera www.r30.org recitals in several churches in Rome.

often concerts, festivals and153, opera All There Saints' are Anglican Church, Via Babuino recitals in several churches in Rome. www.allsaintsrome.org All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. www.allsaintsrome.org Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7 Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com

Oratorio del Caravita, Caravita St Paul's Within the Walls,Via Viadella Nazionale and7 the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the S. Agnese Sagrestia del Borromini, corner ofin ViaAgone, Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it Piazza Navona S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Palazzo PiazzaDoria NavonaPamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum Serenades by Night Dinner throughout and Opera dinner afterwards. Viawith del Corso 305, the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum www.doriapamphilj.com and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com 5034 | Oct 2018 • 2024 Wanted in Rome | January • Wanted in Rome

MUSIC MUSIC THEATR THEATRE CINEMA CINEMA VENUES VENUES

MUSIC THEATRE CINEMA DANCE OPERA

inema inema

The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wantedshow in Rome website for The following cinemas movies in English weekly updates. or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for Adriano, Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 weeklyPiazza updates. Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 0686391361 Barberini, Piazza BarberiniMastroianni 24-26, 1, tel. Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello 0686391361 tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it 068553485 Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 068553485 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 066861068 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 066861068 Odeon, Piazza Stefano 22, tel. Nuovo Sacher, LargoJacini Ascianghi 1, 0686391361 tel. 065818116

Space Moderno, Piazza della 44, tel. Odeon, Piazza Stefano JaciniRepubblica 22, tel. 0686391361 06892111 Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebec06892111 chini 3-5, tel. 06892111 Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111

dd p p 38 Wanted in Rome | December 2017

Teatro 06684000314, ww T Teatro Belli, 06684000314, ww ww T Teatro ww Brancaccio, ww T Teatro ww Ghione, ww T Teatro ww 06684000311, ww T 06684000311, ww

ddance oopera p pop r ock r ance

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano www.teatrovascello.it 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it

pera

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

ock

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Concert venues ranging from major pop and Alexanderplatz, 9, tel. 0683775604 rock groups to Via jazzOstia and acoustic gigs. www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org Angelo Mai Via Atlantico delle Terme di Atlantico, VialeAltrove, dell’Oceano 271d, Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it

Atlantico, Viale Atlantico Auditorium Parcodell’Oceano della Musica, Viale 271d, P. de tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com Auditorium della Viale de Casa del Jazz, Parco Viale di PortaMusica, Ardeatina 55,P.tel. Coubertin,www.casajazz.it tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com 06704731,

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

heatre heatre

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net www.teatrobelli.it Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobelli.it www.teatrobrancaccio.it Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatrobrancaccio.it www.teatroghione.it Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. www.teatroghione.it 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net 50 | Jan 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com Lanificio 159,ViaVia di Pietralata 159, Live Alcazar, Cardinale Merry del Valtel. 14, 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com Live Alcazar, Merry del 35, Val 14, Monk Club, Via ViaCardinale Giuseppe Mirri tel. tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com 0664850987, www.monkroma.it Monk Club, ViaPiazzale Giuseppe Mirri 35,1, tel. PalaLottomatica, dello Sport tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it PalaLottomatica, Piazzale Sport 1, tel. Rock in Roma, Via Appiadello Nuova 1245, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it www.teatrosangenesio.it Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsiwww.teatrosangenesio.it stina.it Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.ilsistina.it www.teatrovascello.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Vittoria,www.teatrovascello.it Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. tel. 065898031, 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Wanted Rome | 37 51 |in Oct 2018••January Wanted2024 in Rome

38 | January 2024 • Wanted in Rome

gorski

a By Kate Z

PIZZA MARGHERITA

HOW TO MAKE GREAT PIZZA AT HOME Making your own pizza from scratch is a surefire way to impress and is a fun activity to do with friends and family. This recipe is a simple way to make great pizza at home using a domestic kitchen oven and, while the result may not be exactly like a real Roman pizzeria, it allows you to unleash your creativity and add whatever toppings you choose. Although the process of making the dough and leaving it to rise takes a while, this can be done in advance, so the actual topping and cooking of the pizza takes a matter of minutes. Cooking the base by itself for a few minutes before turning it over and adding the toppings will ensure a crunchy, non-soggy, crust, as will draining as much liquid as possible out of the mozzarella before using. The quantities below will make enough pizza for about 4 people, but you can use whatever size and shape of metal baking tin you have at home.

For the base: 500g flour 00 1 x 7g sachet of dried yeast 3 pinches of salt 1 pinch of sugar 350ml water Extra virgin olive oil

For the topping: 4 x 250g balls of mozzarella (fior di latte) 1 large jar of tomato passata Fresh basil leaves Sieve the flour into a large bowl. Add the yeast, salt and sugar and pour in the water. Mix everything together with a fork, once the dough starts to come together, tip it onto a floured board or work surfaced. Continue to knead with your hands, constantly pushing the dough back onto itself, until you have a soft, elastic consistency. If the dough is too wet, add a little flour; if it is too dry add a little more water or a drop of olive oil. In a clean bowl pour in about 4 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil. Place the ball of dough into the bowl, cover with plastic cling film and put the bowl into the oven (turned off) or a dark cupboard. Leave it to prove for at least 3 hours until the dough has doubled in size. Once the dough has risen, tip it back onto a floured surface along with the oil. Knead it well until the texture is smooth and soft. Divide the dough into pieces (the size depends on the baking tins you have and how thick you want the base of your pizza) and leave it to rest while you prepare the topping. Turn the oven on to heat to its highest temperature. Pour the passata into a bowl, add a splash of olive oil and a pinch of salt and mix well. Cut the mozzarella into cubes and use your hands to squeeze out as much liquid as possible to ensure that the pizza will not be soggy. Grease the baking tins with olive oil. Push the dough into the tins using your hands, try not to create any holes. Put the pizza into the lowest part of the oven and cook for 5-8 minutes then turn the base over in the tin. Spread the passata over the pizza and add some mozzarella and a drizzle of olive oil then place the pizza back into the low shelf of the oven for about 5 more minutes until the edges are crispy and the mozzarella has melted. Add a few fresh basil leaves and serve immediately.

Dolce, Via Tripolitania 4, tel. 0686215696. Ketumbar, Via Galvani 24, tel. 0657305338. ‘Na Cosetta, Via Ettore Giovenale 54, tel. 0645598326. Ciclostazione Frattini, Via Pietro Frattini 136/138, tel. 065503707.

Indirizzi

Coromandel, Via di Monte Giordano 60/61, tel. 0668802461.

Atlas Coelestis, Via Malcesine 41, tel. 0635072243. Porto Fluviale, Via del Porto Fluviale 22, tel. 065743199. Rosti al Pigneto, Via Bartolomeo D’Alviano 65, tel. 062752608. Doppiozero, Via Ostiense 68, tel. 0657301961. Misto, Via Fezzan 21, tel. 0645471971. Il Bistrot delle Officine Farneto, Via dei Monti della Farnesina 77, tel. 0690286945. Mavi, Lungotevere di Pietra Papa 201, tel. 065584801.

Where to brunch in Rome Our picks of the best restaurants and cafes serving brunch on weekends – from Eggs Benedict to American-style pancakes. COROMANDEL Located near Piazza Navona, this cafe recreates the feel of a cosy 1950s home. If you fancy English-style eggs or pancakes for breakfast, then this is your place. On the menu you’ll find: simple eggs, omelette with roast potatoes and sausage, and either pancakes with bacon and maple syrup, scrambled eggs, maple syrup and icing sugar, or sweet pancakes with chocolate and hazelnut sauce, banana and flaked almonds. There are also smoothies, yogurt and fruit. Sat-Sun from 11.00-15.00. DOLCE For a New York-style Sunday brunch, head to Dolce, the restaurant and bakery in the Africano district. The kitchen is transformed into a bakery with a menu brimming with international cuisine. From eggs to pancakes, or even to sandwiches, sweet and savoury are placed side by side. You can choose between an omelette with three fillings of your choice, or an Eggs Benedict on toasted bread baked in-house. Sun 12.00-15.00. KETUMBAR Ketumbar’s organic brunch, served at weekends, is the talk of Testaccio. There’s a buffet ranging from antipasti to cakes and pastries, that changes seasonally. There are also many different soups, cous cous, dark taragna polente, fritters, hummus, cod au gratin, granary focaccia, salads and vegan dishes. The menu is accompanied by organic wine and artisan beers. At Ketumbar, brunch is also baby-friendly. There’s a kid’s menu and a space dedicated to young children, cared for by qualified minders. Sat-Sun 12.30-16.00. ‘NA COSETTA In this Italian bistro in Pigneto, you can enjoy brunch, otherwise known in Italian as the ‘colanzo’. Dishes are both sweet and savoury and stick to a true Italian style with a few of the chef’s special touches. Pastries and cakes are made by pastry chef Stefania Guerrizio. Sun 12.30-16.00. CICLOSTAZIONE FRATTINI If you’re on the hunt for a place in the Portuense district where you can sit outside and let your kids run about, Ciclostazione Frattini should be your go-to brunch spot. A restaurant, pizzeria and grill, here the whole family can have fun in the indoor Baby Garden and Baby Park. The menu includes more than 30 options, ranging from fresh artisan pasta to homemade cakes and desserts. There are main courses such as meat and fish dishes, soups, cooked vegetables, salads, and cheeses. Sat-Sun 12.30-15.30. PORTO FLUVIALE This crowded Ostiense restaurant offers a buffet brunch menu containing around 60 dishes: hot and cold pasta dishes, soups, raw salads and cooked vegetable dishes, meats, and cheeses served with a variety of tasty dips and sauces. Don’t forget to try the delicious pastries and cakes. Sat-Sun 12.30-16.00.

ATLAS COELESTIS Here you can choose between ten different dishes, from antipasti to dessert, which change weekly. There are also roselline di pizza (baked pizza in the shape of roses) to taste, as the restaurant has reopened its pizza oven and in the evening it serves pizzas made with wholewheat flour. On the kid’s menu you’ll find three different options for the main meal and ice cream for dessert. Sun 12.30. ROSTI AL PIGNETO If you feel like spending the weekend outside in a huge garden suitable for children, Rosti is the place for you. For starters you can tuck into the gnocchi with tomato and basil sauce, cannelloni with ricotta and tomato, ravioli with burrata, tomato and basil, or vegetarian crepes. For main course there’s seasoned meat balls, veal steak with mushrooms, roast pork with honey, turkey nuggets with yoghurt and mustard, anchovies marinated in tarragon and chilli, or cod balls with tomato, as well as salads and desserts. Sat-Sun 12.30-16.00. DOPPIOZERO Here you can enjoy a tasty brunch that benefits from its onsite bakery. The buffet at the weekend includes pasta, pizza (many different types), olive bread, cous cous, salmon, meat, buffalo mozarella and baked goods such as muffins and brownies. Sat-Sun 12.30-15.30. MISTO Located in the Africano district, Misto serves club sandwiches, pancakes, muffins, salads, and seasonal fruits made into juices and smoothies. You can choose one dish from a choice of three: the club sandwich, fillet of salmon or veggie sandwich and then add either pancakes or a salad, then choose between a savoury muffin or Scottish scone, and select a fruit juice. Kids can enjoy either a savoury muffin or Scottish scone, pancakes, fruit salad or orange or blueberry juice. We also recommend trying one of the alcoholic fruit cocktails or a pomegranate spritz. Sun 11.30-15.30. IL BISTROT DELLE OFFICINE FARNETO Every Sunday you can tuck into a tasty brunch at the bistro in Officine Farneto, on Via Monti della Farnesina. The dishes range from homemade fresh pasta to meat and fish courses, cooked vegetables and desserts. We recommend the freshly-prepared burgers. Sun from 12.30. MAVI At Mavi you can enjoy a brunch that’s a little different – part buffet, part à la carte. On the buffet you’ll find eggs, savoury pancakes and many different salad recipes, while from the menu you can order dishes such as burgers, bagels, cakes and sweet pancakes. The buffet includes coffee, water and fruit juice. Sun 13.00-16.00.

www.puntarellarossa.it

Associations American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com Daughters of the American Revolution Pax Romana Chapter NSDAR paxromana@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com

International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490, www.iwcofrome.it Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 3338466820 Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Woman’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com

Books The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified. Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 Anglo American Bookshop Via delle Vite 27, tel. 066795222 Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it

Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484 Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com Otherwise Via del Governo Vecchio, tel. 066879825, www.otherwisebookshop.com

Religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881 Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish)

42 | January 2024 • Wanted in Rome

Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 3332284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday Service 10.30

Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei SS. Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Roma Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic) Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00

Support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.com Archè (HIV+children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/06582045580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 3381675680

Transport • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157066645-064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it

44 | January 2024 • Wanted in Rome

St Isidore College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic), Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827, www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri” Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022

Chiamaroma 24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Emergency numbers • Ambulance tel. 118 • Carabinieri tel. 112 • Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 • Fire brigade tel. 115 • Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 • Police tel. 113 • Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355