Wanted in Rome - July 2020 by Wanted in Rome

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THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME

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CONT

EDITORIALS IN POMPEII?

Margaret Stenhouse

8. INTERVIEW WITH HEAD OF AMERICAN OVERSEAS SCHOOL Marco Venturini

12. UNRAVELLING THE PANTHEON

Martin Bennett

18 . ROME'S CAT SANCTUARY AMONG THE RUINS

Andy Devane

22. TO DO CALENDAR JULY 24. TO DO CALENDAR AUGUST 26. Beaches near rome 28. Lakes around rome 30. ROME FOR children 32. STREET ART guide 34. MUSEUMS 38. ART GALLERIES 51. CULTURAL VENUES 57. RECIPE 58. USEFUL NUMBERS

DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: Marco Venturini EDITRICE: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9 PROGETTO GRAFICO E IMPAGINAZIONE: Dali Studio Srl STAMPA: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c. DIFFUSIONE: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425. Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131del 6/3/1985. Finito di stampare il 30/06/2020

THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME

Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 12, Numero 7 JULY-AUGUST 2020 | € 2,00

4. WHAT'S NEW

MISCELLANY

WHAT'S ON

42. EXHIBITIONS 45. CLASSICAL 46. FESTIVALS 50. ART NEWS

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Pax Paloscia Alice down to the rabbit hole (detail) Acrilico su tela 180x200. Part of exhibition at Rosso20sette. See page 43 for details.

ENTS 12

UNRAVELLING THE PANTHEON

ROME'S CAT SANCTUARY AMONG THE RUINS

TO DO

42 EXHIBITIONS

Archaeology

WHAT'S NEW IN POMPEII? The Archaeological Park of Pompeii, open again after a three-month lockdown due to covid-19, has seen a remarkable reversal of fortunes over the last decade

ompeii was the first Italian archaeological site to reopen to the public after the coronavirus shutdown. The first visitors after the threemonth closure were welcomed on 26 May, with initial access only through the Amphitheatre entrance for small groups following strict one-way itineraries. Since 9 June the rules have relaxed somewhat, with the popular Porta Marina entrance now operative as well and a choice of routes to follow, taking in many of the most celebrated and interesting features. Opening Pompeii was considered a priority for Italy’s tourism industry. In 2019 the site welcomed some four million visitors, and it is Italy’s third most popular attraction after the Colosseum in Rome and the Uffizi in Florence. “Restoration and maintenance have continued throughout the closure to guarantee visitor

Margaret Stenhouse safety and site protection,” declared Pompeii director general Massimo Osanna in his opening announcement, when he also recommended a new visitor approach: “a Pompeii to be enjoyed without rushing.” The new designated routes allow visitors to cross the entire city, from the amphitheatre to the forum, with special emphasis on “ Pompeii’s green features”, in other words, the many domus gardens and orchards that have been scrupulously reconstructed and replanted as they were prior to the disastrous eruption of Vesuvius that wiped the city out in 79 AD. These include the sumptuous estate of business woman Julia Felix, who rented out apartments on her property, complete with baths and leisure gardens for public use, the elegant peristyled garden of the House of the Golden Cupids, the relaxing garden of the House of Octavius Quartio with a pool among the vines and the newly re-opened palatial home of Cornelius Rufus with its marble impluvium, columned garden and fountain. Other “green spaces” on the route include the lawns of the Large Palaestra (gymnasium), the Necropolis of Porta Nocera and the melancholy Garden of the Fugitives, a vineyard where the remains of 13 people were discovered buried under a thick layer of volcanic ash and cinders.

The House of the Lovers, or Casa degli Amanti, at Pompeii.

4 | July-August 2020 • Wanted in Rome

New “treats” to be seen include the House of Leda and the Swan with the erotic fresco that caused a sensation when it was discovered in 2018, and the recently-opened House of the Ship Europa, so called because of a sketch of a Roman merchant ship scratched out in the plaster of one of the walls. The ship is surrounded by a number of smaller

boats and has the name “Europa” written on the prow. Naturally, this does not have the meaning it would have nowadays. In Ancient Roman times, the notion of Europe as a continent did not exist. Greek geographers used the term to refer to an area of the Balkans, now split between Bulgaria, Greece and Turkey. It wasn’t until the eighth century (AD) that the name came to be used to identify Charlemagne’s empire, thus ensuring the immortality of the mythical Phoenician princess Europa, who was abducted and carried off to Crete by Zeus, the father of the gods, in the guise of a bull. The House of the Ship Europa was added to the long list of Pompeii sights only in January this year, along with several other important domus that had been closed for years. These include authentic jewels of interior decoration like the House of the Orchard (Casa del Frutteto), where researchers were stunned to find that the brilliant colours of the wall paintings were still well preserved after being buried for almost 2,000 years. The harmonious interior garden of the house seems to blend into the surrounding rooms, which are covered in paintings of trees, birds and flowers, rather in the style of the famous “painted garden” from the triclinium of Livia’s house on display in the Palazzo Massimo alle Terme Museum in Rome. The central focus of the frescos is intriguing: it depicts a giant fig tree with a snake twined around its trunk. Experts interpret this as a simple augury of prosperity but the fact that some of the adjoining rooms are decorated with Egyptian motives indicates that the family who lived there were probably followers of the Nile goddess Iside, whose cult was very popular in first-century Rome. The nearby House of the Lovers (Casa degli Amanti) got its name thanks to a poem inscribed on the wall comparing the sweetness of lovers’ lives to that of honey bees. However, what really sets it apart is the fact that the second storey of the peristyle round the interior garden is practically intact – an architectural feature believed to be unique in Pompeii. Jolly scenes of people partying decorate the walls of the rooms, giving an impression of the lighthearted and comfortable lifestyle enjoyed by the wealthy inhabitants before the deadly eruption that blotted out their existence. Some of the citizens were so rich that they could indulge in vast banquets, like that involving 6,840

This mural of fighting gladiators was discovered in the Regio V site in Pompeii in 2019.

guests, as recorded on an inscription in a tomb discovered in 2017. The lavish party was organised to celebrate the coming-of-age of the son of the house. According to the inscription, deciphered by Massimo Osanna, the arrangements required 456 three-sided couches where the diners could lounge. The host also provided entertainment on a suitable scale with 416 gladiator contests, a show that must have lasted several days. There is evidence, however, that not all the wealthy were totally self-centred. A fresco now in the Archaeological Museum of Naples shows a togarobed dignitary distributing bread to the needy, possibly at the time when a famine hit the area. These new discoveries have come about thanks to the Great Pompeii Project, launched with EU support in 2012 and brought to conclusion at the beginning of this year. The project aimed at the re-qualification of the site, with a princely grant of €105 million, 75 per cent of which was put up by the EU and the rest by the Italian government. The project wound up within budget, with €92 million spent as per the 30 January 2020 deadline. “The extraordinary results obtained are a motive of pride for Italy,” declared Dario Franceschini, Italian minister of heritage, culture and tourism. The greatest share of the money has been used to make the site safe by shoring up and consolidating damaged or unsteady walls, as well as stabilising 45 buildings that were at risk. These included important monuments such as the temple of the Egyptian goddess Isis, the public baths, the Odeon (or small theatre) and numerous private domus, many decorated with artistic frescoes. Work has involved the removal of 30,000 cubic metres of lapilli, cinders and earth and a resulting cache of 1,167 boxes and 168 packing cases full of antiquities. The working teams included a range of specialists such as archaeologists, architects, restorers, geologists, anthropologists, Wanted in Rome • July-August 2020 | 5

Archaeology accessible. Throughout the next few years Pompeii continued to crumble while experts struggled with insufficient funding to halt the decay and UNESCO threatened to place the archaeological park in its black list of endangered world heritage sites.

Restoring the House of the Orchard, or Casa del Frutteto.

engineers, volcanologists, palaeobotanists and zooarchaeologists. The project allowed archaeologists to explore hitherto neglected and inaccessible zones, such as a 2,000-sqm triangular wedge in the Regio V area in the northern side of the park. One of the most sensational finds that they brought to light was a realistic wall painting of a gory gladiator combat in what had probably been a tavern with a brothel upstairs. More tragic discoveries included the skeleton of a fugitive with his chest crushed under a huge fallen rock. He was holding a purse containing his savings of silver coins. The remains of a horse also emerged, as well as the huddled skeletons of two women and three children. Going round the impeccably kept archaeological site of Pompeii today, it seems impossible to believe that less than ten years ago it was suffering a progressive and seemingly irreversible decline. Many of the most famous buildings were declared unsafe and inaccessible. Whole areas of the city were off limits. Personnel was scarce and surveillance virtually non-existent. Stray dogs wandered freely around ruins smothered in undergrowth. Lightning strikes by disgruntled custodians left lines of protesting tourists locked outside closed gates. In 2010 heavy rainfall and lack of proper drainage brought down a series of walls. The total collapse of a celebrated building identified as the Schola Armaturarum (the house, or barracks, of the gladiators) on the Via dell’Abbondanza main artery, caused an outcry in the international press. At that time, incredibly, only ten buildings were open to the public and only 13 per cent of the excavated area was 6 | July-August 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Thanks to the success of the Grand Pompeii Project, the situation has been totally reversed. Despite some restrictions, imposed for safety measures during the present pandemic, visitors today can look forward to an enjoyable tour round the paved streets, past the poignant remains of long-ago Roman businesses, eateries, spas, public buildings and cult centres, with privileged peeps into the homes and gardens of the upper classes. The Pompeii site may seem huge enough to get round today, but only about a third of the original city has actually been excavated. Future excavations may push the site’s history even further back. Under the Roman overlayer lie intriguing traces of a history that indicate even older origins. During the recent excavations near the Herculanum Gate, a tomb dating back to the fourth century BC was discovered. It belonged to a high ranking Samnite woman buried with a rich cache of funerary goods. Archaeologists believe that they will eventually be able to burrow down to the very origins of Pompeii, to the Oscan culture of seventh-sixth century BC and before that, the Greeks and the Etruscans. However, the real challenge, according to culture minister Dario Franceschini, “lies in the conservation and preservation of what we already have.” Pompeii is unique, but it is also fragile and vulnerable. The goals achieved with the Great Pompeii Project must be maintained if future generations are to continue to enjoy the art, the mystery and the insights into long-ago lives that this precious and unequalled archaeological site offers. Visiting information Prior booking is obligatory online through the TicketOne website where visitors can choose their preferred time slot. Entry allowed every 15 minutes for a maximum 40 people at a time. Visitors are allowed to carry only one small bag. Safety measures in place include temperature checks at the entrance, hand sanitisers at the gates and toilets, the wearing of masks throughout the visit and maintaining social distancing. For full visiting details see website, www.pompeiisites.org/eng.

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Education

INTERVIEW WITH HEAD OF AMERICAN OVERSEAS SCHOOL

Dr Kristen DiMatteo, new head at the American Overseas School (AOSR), spoke to Wanted in Rome about the challenges that lie ahead for private international education Marco Venturini Dr DiMatteo, could you tell us about your international experiences in the schooling sector? I began my career in international education in 1999, when I accepted a position at the American School of Warsaw (ASW). We left Warsaw to

move to Tashkent, Uzbekistan, where I served as the elementary principal and my husband was the Technology Director. From there, we moved to Munich, where I have served as deputy head of school at Munich International School for the last five years. How do you think your extensive international experience will help you with your new challenge at AOSR? Each school has brought a new perspective to my thinking about international education. In Warsaw, I helped design a state-of-the-art campus. In Tashkent, we developed an inclusive and inspiring curriculum to ensure that the needs of all students were met. In Munich, we focused on highly able (gifted) student services, ensuring that our students had access to premier universities in the UK and the US, and developing habits of mind like resilience and perseverance that bring success in adulthood. I am excited to lead AOSR in the coming years as it offers a rigorous and personalised learning environment, which builds skills of the future. Due to the covid-19 pandemic the school life has been upset as never before. What are the main challenges you see ahead and how is AOSR preparing for the next academic year?

Dr Kristen DiMatteo, new Head of School at AOSR.

8 | July-August 2020 â&#x20AC;˘ Wanted in Rome

The main challenge is to provide a safe environment that maximises the learning potential in each child. Safety of our students

Education

The American Overseas School of Rome (AOSR) is located on Via Cassia.

comes first. From my experience reopening school in May 2020 at Munich International School, our challenge here in Rome will be to continue to educate our students about the importance of adhering to hygiene regulations to prevent the spread of the disease. We talk about respect for others, and the importance of remaining diligent. Covid-19 has required us to re-think what teaching and learning looks like. Ultimately, inperson learning is optimal, and therefore our challenge is to ensure that our campus is safe and healthy for robust yet distanced face-to-face interactions. How do you think the recent pandemic has affected the life of young pupils and teachers? Certainly the pandemic has required all of us to become more resilient, adaptable, flexible and creative in our approach to education. Our teachers have learned to pivot quickly from in-

person to distance learning, using technology to stay connected to students through virtual class meetings. Teachers have found this adaptation to be both challenging and inspiring, as they create interactive lessons for students that tap into the resources available at home. It is missing the social aspect of school that has been tough for students. Children of all ages are resilient learners. Learning is innate in children and they can effectively and flexibly access technology for learning. What they miss is spending time with their classmates and teachers on the AOSR campus, which feels like home to our students. The AOSR community is such an integral part of their lives, they really miss it. Keeping in contact via social media, keeping the school spirit alive through communitywide virtual activities, and watching inspiring messages from their teachers helps. But at the end of the day, humans are social beings, and we want to be together on the AOSR campus, when it is safe to do so. Our students need the Wanted in Rome â&#x20AC;˘ July-August 2020 | 9

Education

AOSR currently has 553 students from 51 countries.

face-to-face relationships with their teachers and peers, and we need the joy and curiosity of our students back on our beautiful campus!

opportunities will todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s student find in 10 years time? What advice would you give to your pupils?

In this day and age what are, in your opinion, the strengths of a private international education?

We know that up to 35 per cent of the jobs deemed essential today will change dramatically in the next 10 years. This is according to the World Economic Forum. Social media director, inclusivity advisor, cyber security officer; these are professions unheard of even five years ago. The work of the future is dynamic, solutionsoriented and complex. Because our curriculum is steeped in critical analysis, intellectual rigour and collaborative work, our students leave AOSR optimally equipped to thrive in this type of environment. My advice to our students is to have the courage to challenge yourself, and find joy in that challenge. There is nothing more rewarding than knowing you have exceeded your own expectations of yourself!

What international education of the calibre of AOSR offers is firsthand experience in developing the skills needed to be successful in a global context. Diversity is our strength, and it is highlighted in our mission statement. We know that having a truly international student population means that our students have opportunities to learn new perspectives, not only from our internationally recruited teachers, but also from their peers. They explore ideas and concepts from multiple viewpoints and as a result, they develop an innate ability to problem solve and work with people from a wide variety of backgrounds. This is indispensable as they journey into the world beyond AOSR. In a fast changing world what kind of work 10 | July-August 2020 â&#x20AC;˘ Wanted in Rome

American Overseas School of Rome (AOSR), Via Cassia 811, tel. 06334381, www.aosr.org.

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History

UNRAVELLING THE PANTHEON Tracing some of the Pantheon's reincarnations, from Agrippa to Raphael Martin Bennett

n this quincentenary year of his death, Raphael can stake a claim as greatest artist ever. So the Pantheon, whose interior he once, as it now seems, sketched prophetically and where he is buried might contest the title as world’s greatest building. For height the United States could vaunt any number of structures to surpass it. France, Dubai and Indonesia might cite their various towers, as, with some accidental help from nature, can Pisa. Yet for sheer mass on the ground

and the use (at least for its time) of cutting-edge technology and know-how the Pantheon must take the prize. Architects still puzzle over the dome’s construction. It would take over 1,300 years before Brunelleschi’s dome (1436) would equal it, while even today it keeps its record in the non-reinforced dome category. ‘When the Colosseum falls, Rome will fall, and when Rome falls, the world will perish.’ The proverb has not reckoned that, after such a hypothetical event,

Gazing through the majestic portico of the Pantheon into Piazza della Rotonda.

12 | July-August 2020 • Wanted in Rome

History the perfectly proportioned Pantheon would in all likelihood still be there. Due to its sheer mass, but also to its form and symmetry. Not to mention its purpose, not for gory entertainment but, as Byron puts it, “a sanctuary and home/ of art and piety.” Its interior corresponding to a sphere, ‘la Rotunna’, as it’s called fondly in Romanesco, from floor to the oculus matches with still astounding precision the diameter. Its 41 x 41 metres conjure a sense of space unprecedented in previous architecture, Egyptian, Greek or Etruscan. “The likeness of a terrestrial globe and the stellar sphere,” is the way Hadrian puts it in Marguerite Youcenar’s novel Memoires d’Hadrien. Five levels of concentric caissons extend upward like the five then known planets. Horizontally, 28 per row, they match the moon’s annual cycles. Symbolic but also relieving weight, the caissons take five steps backward to the wall, each originally embedded with a bronze star. To quote Shelley. “It is, as it were, the visible image of the universe.” Who knows whether with his simile in Adonais for life on earth, “like a dome of many-coloured glass”, he wasn’t thinking of this, its land-bound equivalent. Byron, in Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage heaps adjectives: “Simple, erect, severe, austere, sublime.” None is quite grand enough to fit. Michelangelo comments that the building seems the design of angels not men. Viewed from the exterior, the roof’s comparative flatness, like a convex pancake, is determined by the materials thinning out as the inner dome curves upwards, lest it collapse beneath its weight. Mixed in with the Pozzuolian cement, at the bottom are basalt blocks for strength, in the middle section knuckle-size bits of rock; at the top are lodged empty clay jars and pumice-stone, light enough to float in water. Then, over time, there are the vagaries of history. Compared, the Pyramids remain stubbornly unchanged; the Parthenon comes down to us much diminished. The Pantheon seems, however, to have been blessed with several lives, a story of markedly different chapters, pantheons, one might say, plurality built in. Setting the cat among the architectural pigeons, Hadrian’s reconstructed version reproduced the wording on the original frieze, leading many to believe that “M. Agrippa fecit…” Centuries of archaeological confusion were settled partly when repairs to the dome’s upper section in 1892 uncovered bricks with stamps dating to Hadrian. Except lower down other bricks

Pantheon photo by Gabriele Maltinti / Shutterstock.com.

would emerge, their stamps going back to Trajan, Hadrian’s predecessor. Was then the present structure designed by Hadrian or by Trajan’s favourite architect Apollonius of Damascus, subsequently exiled and some say executed on Hadrian’s orders after he rashly criticised design faults of Hadrian’s Temple of Venus in the Forum? In one sense the frieze’s wording is true. Agrippa, Augustus’s son-in-law with a superhuman list of skill-sets – thrice-consul, politician, property magnate, engineer, governor (of Gaul), geographer, road-builder, etc – did ‘make’ an earlier Pantheon, destroyed by a fire, rebuilt under Domitian, then struck by lightning and burnt again in 110, leading many to suspect the gods weren’t happy. Agrippa’s building was long believed to be rectangular, its portico facing south. Then, during the recent covid-19 lockdown, at 16.30 on 20 April, like archaeological Lego, 40 sampietrini in the deserted Piazza della Rotonda gave way. Several square metres between central fountain and flanking restaurant were cordoned off. Rushed to the scene, archaeologists confirmed existence of now clearly visible remains from Agrippa’s era: also present at earlier excavations in 1996/7 Paola Virgil interviewed by Italian newspaper La Repubblica explains: “We discovered that beneath the Pantheon lies another Pantheon. Everything fitted a symbolic plan, the Pantheon pointing not south, as once thought, but north towards Augustus’s mausoleum. The ancient travertine slabs are oriented in a line linking the two monuments.” The sole difference between Hadrian’s and Agrippa’s entrance, she points out, are the columns, ten in Agrippa’s case, eight Wanted in Rome • July-August 2020 | 13

History

The Pantheon's giant dome and oculus. Photo by Luciano Mortula - LGM / Shutterstock.com.

initially in Hadrian’s. Agrippa 63-12 BC, general and architect, was best friend and son-in-law of Augustus. Regarding the interior, Pliny the Elder mentions Mars, and then how the statue of Venus, up in her niche, sported the pearl earrings once worn by Cleopatra. Jewellery but also a war trophy. Agrippa had been Augustus’s crack admiral at the battle of Actium in 31 BC, defeating the combined forces of Mark Antony and Cleopatra. The Pantheon, together with baths and a temple to Neptune was partly to celebrate that naval victory, which cleared the way for Octavius to become the first Roman emperor taking the name of Augustus. According Cassius Dio, a later historian, in the entrance niches stood a statue of deified Agrippa, another to his deified political master Augustus; rubbing shoulders with the gods within was the dynasty’s founder, the deified Julius Caesar. Having married into the family, Agrippa shared in and propagated the gens Iulia’s propensity for self-deification. “Not out of rivalry or ambition on Agrippa’s part,” writes Cassius Dio, “but from loyalty to Augustus and his constant zeal for the public good.” Along with its alignment explained above, 14 | July-August 2020 • Wanted in Rome

to help the deification process along, the building occupied the spot where, back when Campo Marzio would have been so much marshland, Romulus was reputedly taken up to heaven, assuming the form of tutelary god Quirinus. Look up above the inscription to ‘Agrippa fecit’ and the deification theme is indirectly evident in the holes on the marble, used, suggest some historians, to secure a bronze eagle, the bird of Jupiter. With Rome’s fall in the fifth century, the Pantheon lapsed into two centuries’ of disuse. It might have remained a flooded ruin. Then in 608 the building was donated by Byzantine emperor Phocas (he of the solitary column in the Forum) to Pope Boniface IV. 28 cartloads of bones were brought in from the catacombs and to the singing of the Gloria the church of S. Maria ad Martyres was inaugurated. Pagan devils, goes one account, were sent shrieking through the oculus. This didn’t prevent another emperor, Constans II in 663 ripping off, in both senses, the gilded bronze from the outer roof to decorate his temple in Byzantium. Only you can’t take it with you: the booty was in turn robbed by pirates, while Constans died in Sicily at the hands of an assassin.

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History

The Pantheon reopened recently after three months of covid-19 lockdown.

The Pantheon also suffered under the Avignon papacy (1309-1377) when it was converted to a fortress by Rome’s belligerent Colonna and Orsini families. At one point the portico hosted a mediaeval poultry market, and to as late as 1848 a fish market; those holes in the pillars were put there to support the awnings.

ain’t – pell-mell;/ It’s Raphael; it’s not Raphael.’ A new pine coffin was made, this placed within an ancient sarcophagus bordered elegantly with Cardinal Bembo’s Latin epitaph: ‘Here’s one in whom Nature feared – faint at such vying -/ Eclipse while he lived, and decease at his dying.’ (Alexander Pope’s translation.)

To make the building more churchlike, in 1270 a small bell tower was erected on the top of the gable but this was demolished under the pontificate of Urban VIII (1623-1644) who added two bell towers to either side of the façade. Often misattributed to Bernini, these towers did not seem to please the public eye, being named ‘Ass’s Ears,’ and were subsequently pulled down in 1883.

In further commemoration the cultural ministry recently laid a wreath at the same spot, flowers tagged with a rainbow and now familiar caption ‘Andrà tutto bene’ (Everything will be all right). The Pantheon is also the final resting place of two Italian kings, Vittorio Emanuele, and Umberto I, along with the latter’s wife, Margherita of Savoy. Meanwhile every spring equinox in time for Rome’s traditional birthday an ever-swelling beam descends from the oculus into the ‘massive cavern’. It moves across the walls to alight on and illuminate the inner doorway. The stone arch above gets transformed into another rainbow, this time silvery, phosphorescent, neon.

With the Renaissance things improved. Brunelleschi, Michelangelo and Raphael (another papal architect) raised the building’s prestige. The latter not only made a sketch (now in the Uffizi); he chose it for his tomb, commissioning a statue from his pupil Lorenzotto, the Madonna of the stone, still there today. By the 19th century his burial had become a distant memory. Hence Pope Gregory XVI in 1833 ordered five days of excavations: an oaken but much soaked coffin was unearthed along with intact skeleton. To adapt Belli’s Romanesco, ‘It’s him; no, it ain’t; ‘tis; 16 | July-August 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Like Byron one struggles for adjectives. A dome then, that not so much ‘stains the white radiance of eternity’ as concentrates it in a moment of brilliant apotheosis. As a symbol of survival in these covid-19 times, the Pantheon remains gracefully and monumentally resilient.

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Cats

ROME'S CAT SANCTUARY AMONG THE RUINS Rome cat shelter appeals for online donations and distance adoptions amid a difficult year Andy Devane

and the almost total lack of tourists in Rome. The sanctuary receives no state funding and relies solely on donations from the visiting public and whoever supports its distance adoption scheme.

The shelter, which is dependent on donations and volunteers, is more in need than ever of support following the recent covid-19 lockdown

Reached by a steep set of steps from the Via Arenula corner of Largo Argentina, the shelter has low ceilings and vibrates every time the number 8 tram passes overhead. Passersby stop

omeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Torre Argentina Cat Sanctuary, located among the ruins of the Largo Argentina archaeological area, has provided shelter, food and love to cats in the city centre for more than 25 years.

Verita is one of the residents of the Torre Argentina Cat Sanctuary.

18 | July-August 2020 â&#x20AC;˘ Wanted in Rome

Cats to take photos of the cats lounging in the remains of four temples from the Roman Republic era, as well as part of Pompey’s Theatre. Most famously, the cats’ backyard is also the scene of Julius Caesar’s assassination in 44 BC. During excavations of the archaeological site in 1929, cats began to make their home among the ruins. This led to the creation of a colony of stray and abandoned cats cared for by a succession of gattare (‘cat ladies’) until the establishment of the Torre Argentina Cat Sanctuary in October 1993. “We have 89 cats currently living with us, many free in the ruins and some who are disabled, deaf, blind and have incurable health problems like kidney failure, and so need daily medication” – volunteer Fiona Shaw told Wanted in Rome – “These cats have with us a home for life.” Shaw said that the shelter was founded by “two special ladies”: Lia Dequel who passed away in 2013, and Silvia Viviani, a retired opera singer, now aged 80, who still works at the shelter several days a week. In addition to providing cats with food, shelter, medicine and love, an important aspect of the volunteers’ work is “sterilising cats in and around Rome to keep the feral cat population down, working hard for the city by doing so,” Shaw says. “We offer sterilisations to other colonies of cats cared for by gattare and when required we provide medical care to any cats in need. Last year we sterilised over 6,000 cats.”

Calibano is blind after being hit by a car.

Castellano, curious and sweet, was also in a road accident: he has only three legs but that doesn’t stop him from shuffling around with his pals at surprising speed. Calibano is blind after being hit by a car, receiving terrible injuries to his jaw. Calibano is part of the so-called “basket gang” of friends, sharing his sleep with Brutus who is deaf and blind, Grumpy who is blind in one eye and suffering from stage 4 kidney failure, Debra who has only one eye and little Mozart who was born with a neurological condition known as cerebellar hypoplasia.

Wanted in Rome recently spent a morning in the shelter’s inner sanctum, reached via two locked doors, which houses its most precious and fragile residents. The walls of this long, bright room are lined with crates, one for each of the cats, all of which are sick or disabled. Many of these animals have in the past met with neglect or injury. Luckily cats have nine lives however and these felines get to spend the rest of their days surrounded by compassion, in what truly is a sanctuary for them.

While we were there a volunteer named Monica introduced us to four tiny kittens, believed to be about 20 days old, who were found abandoned on a street in Rome. These little creatures were about to be taken home by one of the volunteers, where they will be minded until they complete their vaccination cycle and become accustomed to humans, before being put up for adoption. The shelter is a dangerous place for kittens: there are too many endemic diseases for their immature immune systems.

Each cat has a name and all have their own personality. Some are meek, others have a mischievous streak. Some wish to be petted, others wish to play. We met some of the shelter’s best known characters, and found out a little about them.

Laura, another volunteer, told us that it while it would be relatively easy to find good homes for the cute kittens, it was decidely more difficult to rehome the old and sick cats who in any case, she said, were better off at the shelter where they are assured expert care and attention. Wanted in Rome • July-August 2020 | 19

Castellano has only three legs after being hit by a car.

Silvia Zerenghi, who oversees both the distance adoption programme and public relations at the sanctuary, told Wanted in Rome that the shelter is always looking for new cat-loving volunteers, particularly those who speak English. “Most of our visitors, and donations, are from foreign tourists. English is the international language and it’s easier for a native speaker to explain what to do, even if all of us speak at least two languages.” Zerenghi says the majority of the volunteers are Italian but there are also foreigners on the team, including Fiona from the UK, Martina and Angela from Germany, Gilles from Belgium, Isabel from Switzerland and Anneke from Holland. Asked about who owns the premises, Zerenghi is upfront. “We are squatters in the shelter. We know it’s a problem, but we occupied some neglected storehouses in 1993 and during all these years we managed to have running water, electricity and a phone line, we paved the floor, set up spaces to work and to accommodate cats.” She says the site is the property of the city’s cultural superintendency, pointing out that they are not permitted to rent out an historical asset. “We’d love to rent the shelter! But we are happy if we can continue to be squatters without any problem,” she says. 20 | July-August 2020 • Wanted in Rome

As for how people can help, Zerenghi directs cat-lovers to the adoption programme on theCM sanctuary’s website, saying: “People can sponsor a cat, a very special one to feel their own.” TheMY shelter’s friends in the Facebook group ‘Gatti di Roma – Roman Cats’ also offer their creativeCY works to raise funds, she says.

CMY

Given that Rome’s tourism industry has hit a brick wall this year, the usual steady streamK of visitors has dried up. The sanctuary is desperately seeking online donations, which can be made through PayPal on its website. Those living in Rome can help by making a donation in person or purchasing gifts directly from the shelter, where they can also meet the happy Roman cats who have found their forever home. Where to find Torre Argentina Cat Sanctuary The shelter is located on the corner of Via Arenula and Largo di Torre Argentina, not far from Piazza Venezia in central Rome. The sanctuary is open every day 12.00-18.00. For details about the shelter, its residents and the work carried out by volunteers, see website, www.gattidiroma.net.

Single Cycle Master Degree Program

Medicine and Surgery

The new English-taught Master Degree Program is designed using a multidisciplinary approach to train students to become doctors practicing in a diverse biomedical-social culture with interdisciplinary and intercultural working skills. In line with the guiding principles of Campus Bio-Medico University of Rome, the teaching is entirely patient-centred and community-centred. A deep knowledge of ethical issues is applied to the use of advanced medical technology in order to promote health-care through a humanistic approach. Students are provided with strong foundations in scientific methodology, statistics and "evidence based medicine” imparted through means of Problem-Based Learning (PBL) a method that uses complex real-world problems as the vehicle to stimulate student learning of theoretical concepts and principles as opposed to direct presentation of facts and concepts. The program is designed in such a way that its core contents anticipate and integrate the European specifications for global standards in medical education according to the World Federation on Medical Education in international basic standards and quality development of biomedical education (WFME Office, University of Copenhagen, 2007) and the Basic Medical Education WFME Global Standards for Quality Improvement - 2015 Revision (WFME Office Ferney-Voltaire, France Copenhagen, Denmark 2015).

orientamento@unicampus.it - www.unicampus.it

Tel: 06.22541.9056/8121/8715 - Via Álvaro del Portillo 21 - 00128 Roma

to do

Mon Tue Wed Thu 1

ART MUSIC FOOD NATURE CINEMA FAMILY THEATRE

Book in advance to have the Colosseum and Roman Forum virtually to yourself.

Celebrate the work of Ingmar Bergman at Casa del Cinema in Villa Borghese.

Casa del Jazz returns this summer with a lineup of Italian quartets.

Pop in to Roman gallery Rosso20sette for its international street art show.

Check into Palazzo Dama hotel near Piazza del Popolo for a poolside break.

Don’t miss the World Press Photo 2020 exhibition at Palazzo delle Esposizioni.

Open air DJ sets return to MAXXI with weekly event Any Given Monday.

View Rembrandt’s Portrait as St Paul at Galleria Corsini.

Head to Voodoo Bar’s smart-working area for peace and quiet in the shaded garden.

Source grapefruit and Join friends at Fiscio kiosk fennel at your local in Piazzale degli Eroi for market for a classic a large selection of hardRoman salad. to-find IPA beers.

Shop at artisanal store 2 Arrows Leather Roma in the centre for one-of-akind pieces.

Marvel at the fairytale architecture of Rome’s Coppedè quarter.

Visit the newlyreopened Palazzo Venezia in the heart of the city.

Go early to climb St Peter’s dome and enjoy a birds-eye-view of Rome.

Grab a table at Osteria degli Amici in Testaccio for a classic pasta all’amatriciana.

Soak up the literary past of Caffè Greco, Rome’s oldest coffee bar.

Enjoy Le Quattro Stagioni, a ballet based on Vivaldi’s Four Seasons, at Circo Massimo.

Foto di Mauricio A. da Pixabay Foto da Pexels

Fri

Sat

July Sun 2020

For a gorgeous beach day, travel to Terracina for its rich history and sunset views.

Have an early aperitivo cocktail at Santo’s new outdoor garden area in Trastevere.

Pack a picnic basket of gourmet food from the newly renovated Volpetti in Testaccio.

Try Pianoalto’s new al fresco dining experience on the rooftop terrace in Ostiense.

Plan a trip to Florence to experience a lesscrowded tour of the Uffizi Gallery.

Be amazed by the Baths of Caracalla but book in advance.

Enjoy opera under the stars with Rigoletto in the Circus Maximus.

Admire the work of Caravaggio in Palazzo Caffarelli at the Capitoline Museums.

Bring the family to enjoy the rides at Luneur Park in the EUR district.

Perk up at S. Eustachio with a cold Caffè Shakerato.

Check out the children’s activities at Explora, now reopened.

Hop on the train to Lake Bolsena for a day of swimming and sailing.

31 Bear the bus ride to Sabaudia for a swim in the crystal clear water.

to do

Mon Tue Wed Thu 4

Explore the palatial Snag an outdoor table at rooms of the beautifullyRoman trattoria Cesare restored Palazzo al Casaletto. Altemps.

Witness the recreation of the “Miracle of the Snow” at Basilica di S. Maria Maggiore.

3 10

Wish Laura a happy 40th birthday on WhatsApp: +393920712417.

Enjoy the magical gardens and fountains of Villa d’Este in Tivoli at night.

Spend the day with your dog at Bau Beach near Fiumicino.

ART MUSIC FOOD NATURE CINEMA FAMILY THEATRE

After a walk in Villa Borghese, stop at Casino di Valadier for a spritz with a view.

Book a night in Sperlonga and combine two beach days with dinner in the old town.

Reserve in advance to visit the beautiful Giardino di Ninfa.

Admire the ancient art the splendid halls of Palazzo Barberini.

If you like adventure, try the world’s longest zip line ‘Flying in the Sky’ in Latina south of Rome.

31 Enjoy the Blue Flag beach of Sabaudia, reachable by public transport.

Spend the day by the pool at Circolo Tennis Belle Arti. Reservations required.

Wander among ancient sculptures and industrial turbines at Centrale Montemartini.

For a cultural trip out of town, travel to the fivesided Palazzo Farnese in Caprarola.

For a sweet treat near Campo de’ Fiori, stop by ZUM, a tiramisù-lover’s dream.

Foto di Andrea Spallanzani da Pixabay

August Sat Sun 2020

Fri

For a salon-style manicure book BAHR City Spa near the Pantheon.

First Sunday of the month means Romeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s city-run museums are free for all.

Take an Englishlanguage yoga class at Zem yoga, with physical distancing in place.

Cool off at the waterfall garden, Giardino delle Cascate, beside the lake at EUR.

Have a sunset drink with friends at beachside bar Singita in Fregene.

Italian summer holidays, called Ferragosto, kick off today.

Escape the city and hop on the ferry to the beautiful Tuscan island of Giglio.

Pack a picnic and go to Caffarella park for the day.

Pamper yourself with a relaxing spa treatment at QC Terme near Fiumicino.

Enjoy a Neapolitan pizza at Salvatore di Matteo in the Prati neighbourhood.

Grab a bargain at the chaotic Porta Portese Sunday market but watch out for pickpockets!

Visit the 10th-century cloisters at Nuovo Regina Margherita hospital in Trastevere.

Rent a canoe at Lago di Martignano and take in the scenic views.

Make a day trip to the breathtaking village of Civita di Bagnoregio.

Beaches TOP 10

BE ACHES N E A R RO M E For all you beach-lovers here is a selection of resorts within easy reach of Rome. Each one, ordered from north to south, offers either stabilimenti (private beaches with entrance fees and changing facilities and refreshments) or spiaggia libera (free beach with the option to rent a lounge chair and/or umbrella), and all have children’s facilities. 2020 will be far from normal for beaches, due to covid-19. Beach-goers should expect social distancing and reduced access. Check the Regione Lazio website before travelling to beaches or lakes, www.regione.lazio.it.

Sabaudia S. MARINELLA The northern-most beach on our list offers a small strip of white sandy beach with the choice of setting up camp at either the stabilimenti or spiaggia libera. There are two trains per hour leaving from Termini station for S. Marinella station and the journey takes about one hour. Popular with wind-surfers.

S. SEVERA Located about 50 km north of Rome and less than 10 km south of S. Marinella. Take one of the regular Civitavecchia trains from Rome and the beach is a ten-minute walk from the station. There are numerous stabilimenti, restaurants and spiaggia libera and it is also known for the Italia Surf Expo which takes place every July.

FREGENE A former chic hotspot of the 1960s and 1970s, Fregene boasts long stretches of sand with both stabilimenti and spiaggia libera. Along the coast there is also a wide selection of family-oriented restaurants and less expensive tavole calde. Rome’s club scene tends to flock to Fregene and nearby Ostia (see below) in the summer months. Although Fregene isn’t the easiest place to reach by public transport, Cotral buses depart from Rome’s Valle Aurelia metro stop (line A) and the journey takes about one hour.

OSTIA/CANCELLI Ostia and the Cancelli (gates) are along the coast nearest Rome. Ostia is loaded with often pricey and trendy stabilimenti, while the Cancelli offer free beaches equipped with restaurants and bathrooms. Public transport takes less than an hour and you can use the same metro/bus tickets for public transport in Rome. Take the 070 express bus from EUR, or the Roma-Lido train from Porta S. Paolo beside the Piramide metro station (line B). To reach the Cancelli get off at the last stop and take the 07 MARE bus until you reach the gates numbered 1, 2, 3 etc.

ANZIO/NETTUNO These beaches are only ten minutes apart and are easily reached from Rome. One train per hour leaves from Termini station, stopping first at Anzio and then at Nettuno. The journey takes 60-70 minutes and the beaches are about a 10-minute walk from the respective train stations.

26 | July-August 2020 • Wanted in Rome

S. Marinella Anzio has the Blue Flag status given to beaches that meet the international quality standards for cleanliness both on the beach and in the water.

SABAUDIA Famous for its beauty and spaciousness, this stretch of beach is another Blue Flag area. Although predominantly spiaggia libera, there are a few stabilimenti to choose from. Cotral buses run from Rome’s Laurentina metro stop (line B) to Piazza Oberdan in Sabaudia. From here take the shuttle bus which runs up and down the local coastline. Sabaudia is also known for its Mussolini-era architecture.

S. FELICE CIRCEO Nearly 100 km south of Rome are the Blue Flag beaches and crystal clear waters of Circeo. Stabilimenti abound but look for the spiaggia libera nearest the port: it definitely merits the mini-trek. Cotral buses leave for Circeo from the Laurentina metro station in Rome. Get off at the last stop and walk for ten minutes until you reach the beach.

TERRACINA Located just 10 km south of Circeo. From Termini station take the hourly regional train for Naples and get off at Monte S. Biagio. From there, take the bus for about 20 minutes until you reach the beach. Terracina has as many spiagge libere as stabilimenti and both are well-kept and clean, making it a popular destination for families.

SPERLONGA The stabilimenti dominate this gorgeous getaway with picturesque views and Blue Flag status, leaving only narrow strips for the spiaggia libera. Take the regional train headed to Naples from Termini station and get off at Fondi-Sperlonga. Once there, take the Piazzoli bus for 20 minutes to Sperlonga, alternatively take a private taxi but be warned they are far more expensive than the €1.50 bus ticket.

GAETA This Blue Flag area has a quaint mediaeval town to explore and clean beaches. From Termini station take one of the frequent trains headed towards Naples, get off at Formia and take the bus for another 25 minutes until you reach Gaeta. For more information about transportation consult the Cotral and Trenitalia websites www.cotralspa.it, www.trenitalia.it.

Medicine Pools TOP 10

OU T DO O R P O O LS I N RO M E Come mid-summer in Rome, most of us are in need of the cool of an outdoor pool to relax by. But Rome isn’t awash with them and most are part of privately- owned swimming and sports clubs or upmarket hotels. Expect to pay upwards of €40 a day per person for entry to exquisitely chic surroundings at the top end of the spectrum, and at least €10 for perfectly adequate but som times crowded and scruffy cheaper pools. We’ve picked ten of Rome’s best, from New York-style rooftop pools with to-die-for views over the city and a nice line in cocktails to family-friendly cheap and cheerful clubs. The € symbols represent ranking by price.

Piscina delle rose

Radisson SAS Hotel

1. ALDROVANDI PALACE

7. HYDROMANIA

Small and very select city-centre oasis, La Ranocchia (meaning “little frog”) is shaded by overhanging palms and huge cream parasols. Arrive early as space is limited around this pool. Mon-Sun 10.00-19.30. Mon-Sat €55, Sun €60, weekly pass €350. Via Ulisse Aldrovandi 15 (Parioli), tel. 063223993, www.aldrovandi.com. €€€€

Think miles of water slides, wave machines, pools, South-Pacific-style thatched bars, shops and a mini-club. Weekdays 09.30-18.30, weekends 09.30-19.30. Daily adult rate €24, kids €19. Half day rates €19/17. Casal Lumbroso 33 (Aurelio), tel. 0666183183, www.hydromania.it. €€

2. BELLE ARTI

8. PISCINA DELLE ROSE

Free at weekends and well worth a mention for its fantastic central location tucked behind a church on Via Flaminia. A quiet atmosphere makes it good for those with very young children. Mon-Fri 07.00-21.00. €15. Sat 07.00-20.00, Sun 08.00-20.00. €25. Children aged 7-13 accompanied by adult pay €10 week day / €15 weekend. Via Flaminia 158 (Flaminio), tel. 063226529, www.circolotennisbellearti.it. €€

Large pool perfect for families, swimming and canoeing lessons. Mon-Fri 09.00-21.00, weekends 09.00-19.00 (€16 per day, €14 half-day). Viale America 20 (EUR), tel. 065926717, www.piscinadellerose.it. €€

3. CAVALIERI HILTON This Olympic-sized outdoor pool-witha-view is the crème de la crème of Rome’s pools if you like serious swimming. It’s large, luxurious and well worth the trip to Monte Mario. With a separate children’s pool. 08.00-19.00 daily (weekdays €40, weekends €80, sun lounger and towel included). Via Alberto Cadlolo 101 (Monte Mario), tel. 0635091, www.cavalieri-hilton.it. €€€€€

4. CIRCOLO VALENTINI Slightly shabby but friendly, family-run pool, used by locals. The adjoining restaurant will make up a lunchtime salad for around €4. 09.00-19.00 (weekdays €10, half-day €7, weekends €14/€10). Via della Marcigliana 597, corner Via Bufalotta (Talenti/Prati Fiscali), tel. 0687120207, www.circolovalentini.it. €

9. RADISSON SAS HOTEL Seriously smart and stunning heated rooftop swimming pool with sections for children and adults and poolside fine dining. 09.00-19.00 (adults €65 Mon-Fri, €90 Sat-Sun, children 50 per cent off ). Via Filippo Turati 171 (Esquilino), tel. 06444841, www.radissonblu.com/eshotel-rome. €€€€

10. S.S.D. VITA Professional, outdoor swimming pool arranges lessons for children and adults and has tennis courts and a gym. Mon-Fri 07.00-21.30. €12 daily. Sat 07.00-20.00. Sun 08.00-20.00. €15 daily rate weekend. Children aged 10 upwards pay adult rate. Kids aged 5-10 €8, kids under 5 free. Via del Fontanile Arenato 66 (Aurelio), tel. 066634202, www.vitaclub.it. €

5. CLUB LANCIANI A large tennis club with an outdoor pool offering lessons, free swimming and a children’s summer school. Weekdays 09.30-18.30, weekends 09.30-19.30. Adults €10.50/15, kids €7.50/11. Via di Pietralata 135 (Tiburtino), tel. 064181401, www.clublanciani.eu. €€

6. GRAND HOTEL GIANICOLO Part of a luxury hotel, this pool is located in elegant surroundings with palm trees and views of Trastevere from the Gianicolo hill. Lunch and dinner served at pool-side restaurant. 09.00-19.00, weekdays €25, weekend rate €35. Via delle Mura Gianicolensi 107 (Gianicolo), tel. 0658333405, www.grandhotelgianicolo.it. €€

Hydromania

Wanted in Rome • July-August 2020 | 27

LAGO DI ALBANO This volcanic crater lake presents visitors with beautiful views of its clear water and surrounding forests. The picturesque towns along the shores serve as popular summer resort areas for Romans, including Castel Gandolfo, home to the summer papal palace whose gardens were recently opened to the public. On the other side of the lake is Palazzolo, a villa bought by Rome’s Venerable English College in 1920 and now open to guests. The towns surrounding the lake are known for their restaurants, shops and fruit farms. Swimming, fishing and boating are among the favourite activities for visitors, and the lake’s beach is located on the western shore. A simple 45-minute train ride from Termini, visitors can reach Lago Albano by taking the FL4 train towards Albano Laziale and getting off at the Castel Gandolfo stop.

around rome

LAGO DI BOLSENA Located on the site of the Vulsini volcano, dormant since about 100 BC, this crater lake has two islands and is surrounded by rolling hills and vegetation. The area around Montefisascone on the southeast shore of the lake is famous for its Est! Est!! Est!!! wine. The town of Bolsena in the northeast is a popular tourist resort in summer and it is here that the famous so-called Eucharistic Miracle took place in 1263 when a Bohemian priest is said to have seen blood coming from the host that he had just consecrated at Mass. Capodimonte on the southwest of the lake is also worth a visit. The lakeside area provides activities for sports and nature enthusiasts all year round. The best way to reach Lago di Bolsena from Rome is by car, as buses to Bolsena from Termini Station are infrequent.

LAGO DI NEMI Lago di Nemi is a small and unique volcanic lake where divers in the 19th century discovered two large ships built for the notorious Roman emperor Caligula at the bottom of the lake, filled withbottom of the lake, filled with artworks and treasures. Replicas of the ships along with other artefacts are on display at the nearby Museum of Roman Ships. Travellers can also visit the natural caves around the lake, which were a favourite haunt of 19th-century foreign artists such as Turner. Nemi is associated with the cult of the Roman goddess Diana, and, for the last 80 years, an annual strawberry festival. Visitors can reach the lake by taking the SS7 Appia southbound as far as Genzano, and then following signs for Nemi.

LAGO DI BRACCIANO Just north-west of Rome along the Via Cassia, Lake Bracciano is one of the most easily accessible lakes for Romans. The ban on motor boats (except for a little ferry) means it remains an ideal spot for swimming, sailing and canoeing. The Lega Navale operates a dinghy sailing school in Anguillara. Churches and historic sites are located in the three small towns around the lake: Bracciano, Trevignano and Anguillara. There are also places for camping and horse riding tours by the lake, which is just an hour on the Viterbo train line from Rome’s Ostiense station. The lake is overlooked by the 15th-century Orsini-Odescalchi castle in Bracciano, often chosen as the venue for jet-set weddings, and there is also an air force museum at nearby Vigna di Valle.

LAGO DI VICO Formed by the volcanic activity of Mount Venus, Lago di Vico offers a unique geological backdrop set amid lush woodland and hills. The surrounding nature reserve is a haven for wildlife, but what is most characteristic of the area are the hazel and chestnut plantations. Lakeside campsites and hotels offer swimming, sailing and horse riding. The two towns worth a visit are Ronciglione and Caprarola with its magnificent and recently restored Villa Farnese. Lago di Vico is a 90-minute drive from Rome taking the SS2 Cassia, and turning north at Sutri.

LAGO DI MARTIGNANO This tiny volcanic lake just to the east of Lake Bracciano offers clean water and beaches with scenic views of the surrounding meadows and wildlife. Lago di Martignano is known for its outdoor activities such as horse riding, hiking, mountain biking and swimming. Umbrellas, loungers and luggage storage are available to rent along with canoes, sailboats and windsurfing equipment. It is also known for the hot sulphurous springs surrounding the lake. Arriving at Lago di Martignano by car is the easiest option. Reaching the lake by public transport involves taking the FM3 train to Cesano and opting for either a local bus or taxi.

28 | July-August 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Wanted in Rome • april 2017 | 4

ARTandSEEK Please note that not all of these activites English-language culturaldue workshops visits to are currently open, to theand covid-19 museums and exhibitions for children in Rome. For crisis. It is advisable to check websites event details tel. 3315524440, email artandseekforfor visiting details and make reservation kids@gmail.com, or see website, www.artandsebefore going. ekforkids.com. Bioparco Rome's Bioparco has over 1,000 animals and offers special activities for children and their families at weekends and during the summer. When little legs get tired, take a ride around the zoo on an electric train. Open daily. Viale del Giardino Zoologico 20 (Villa Borghese), tel. 063608211, www.bioparco.it. Bowling Silvestri This sports club has an 18-hole mini golf course, with good facilities for children aged 4 and over, adults and disabled children.

30 | July-August 2020 â&#x20AC;˘ Wanted in Rome

There are also tennis courts, a table tennis room and a pizzeria. Via G. Zoega 6 (Monteverde/Bravetta), tel. 0666158206, www.bowlingsilvestri.com. Casa del Parco Eco-friendly workshops, in Italian, in which kids can learn about nature and how to care for the environment. Located in the Valle dei Casali nature park. Via del Casaletto 400, tel. 3475540409, www.valledeicasali.com. Casina di Raffaello Play centre in Villa Borghese offering a programme of animated lectures, creative workshops, cultural projects and educational activities for children from the age of three. Tues-Fri 14.30, Sat-Sun 11.00 and 17.00. Viale della Casina di Raffaello (Porta Pinciana), tel. 060608, www.casinadiraffaello.it.

Cinecittà World This 25-hectare theme park dedicated to the magic of cinema features high-tech attractions, real and virtual roller coasters, aquatic shows such as Super Splash, giant elephant rides and attractions with cinematic special effects. Located about 10 km from EUR, south of Rome. Via di Castel Romano, S.S. 148 Pontina, www.cinecittaworld.it. Climbing Associazione Sportiva Climbing Side. Basic and competitive climbing courses for 6-18 year olds. Tues, Thurs. Via Cristoforo Colombo 1800 (Torrino/Mostacciano), tel. 3356525473. Explora The 2,000-sqm Children’s Museum organises creative workshops for small children in addition to holding regular animated lectures, games and meetings with authors of children’s books. Via Flaminia 80/86, tel. 063613776, www.mdbr.it. Go-karting Club Kartroma is a circuit with go-karts for children over 9 and two-seater karts for an adult and a child under 8. Closed Mon. For details see website. Via della Muratella (Ponte Galeria), tel. 0665004962, www.kartroma.it. Gymboree This children's centre caters to little people aged from 0-5 years, offering Play and Learn activities, music, art, baby play, school skills and even English theatre arts. Gymboree @ Chiostro del Bramante (Piazza Navona), Via Arco della Pace 5, www.gymbo.it. Hortis Urbis Association providing hands-on horticultural workshops for children, usually in Italian but sometimes in English, in the Appia Antica park. Weekend activities include sowing seeds, cultivating plants and harvesting vegetables. Junior gardeners must be accompanied by a parent or guardian. Via Appia Antica 42/50, www.hortusurbis.it. Il Nido Based in Testaccio, this association supports expectant mothers, parents, babies and small children. It holds regular educational and social events, many of them in English. Via Marmorata 169 (Testaccio), tel. 0657300707, www.associazioneilnido.it.

Luneur Located in the southern EUR suburb, Luneur is Italy’s oldest amusement park. Highlights include ferris wheel, roller coaster, carousel horses, bamboo tunnel, maze, giant swing and a Wizard of Oz-style farm. Aimed at children aged up to 12. Entry fee €2.50, payable in person or online. Via delle Tre Fontane 100, www.luneurpark.it. Rainbow Magicland The 38 attractions at Rome's biggest theme park are divided into three categories: brave, everyone, and kids. Highlights include down-hill rafting, a water roller coaster through Mayan-style pyramids, and the Shock launch coaster. Located in Valmonte, south-east of the capital. Via della Pace, 00038 Valmontone, www.rainbowmagicland.it. Time Elevator A virtual reality, multi-sensorial 5-D cinema experience with a motion-base platform, bringing the history of Rome to life in an accessible and fun way. The time-machine's commentary is available in six languages including English. Daily 11.00-19.30. €12 adults, €9 kids. Via dei SS. Apostoli 20, tel. 0669921823, www.time-elevator.it. Zoomarine This amusement and aquatic park outside Rome offers performances with dolphins, parrots and other animals for children of all ages. It is also possible to rent little play carts. Children under 10 must be accompanied by an adult. Via Casablanca 61, Torvaianica, Pomezia, tel. 0691534, www.zoomarine.it.

Wanted in Rome • July-August 2020 | 31

Rome’s artart capital continues to to grow with newnew murals by important Italian and Rome'sreputation reputationasasananimportant importantstreet street capital continues grow with murals by important Italian international streetstreet artistsartists appearing all the all time. the works located the suburbs, often far often from the and international appearing theMost time.ofMost of theare works are in located in the suburbs, far centre. Here is where to is find Rome’s mainthe street artstreet projects murals. from the centre. Here where to find main artand projects and murals around Rome. Esquilino Esquilino Murals Murals byby Alice Alice Pasquini, Pasquini, Gio Gio Pistone, Nicola Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Alessandrini, Diamond. Diamond. Casa Casa dell’Architettura, dell'Architettura, Piazza Fanti 47. PiazzaMafredo Manfredo Fanti 47. Marconi Marconi The The M.A.G.R. M.A.G.R. (Museo (Museo Abusivo Abusivo Gestito Gestitodai daiRom), Rom),a aproject projectby byFrench French street artistSeth Seth is located in a street artist is located in a former former soap factory Via Antonio soap factory on Viaon Antonio AvogaAvogadro, opposite dro, opposite Ostiense'sOstiense’s landmark landmark Gasometro. details see Gasometro. For For details see www.999contemporary.com. www.999contemporary.com. Museodell’Altro dell’Altroe edell’Altrove dell’Altrovedidi Museo Metropoliz Metropoliz This former former meat meat factory factory inin the the This outskirts of of Rome art outskirts Rome isis now nowa astreet street museum being home hometoto art museumasaswell well as as being some200 200squatting squatters,migrants. many of The them some migrants. The Museo dell’Altrodi e Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove dell’Altroveor diMAAM, Metropoliz, or MAAM, Metropoliz, is only open only open Saturdays, and onis Saturdays, andon features the work the work of moreincluding than 300 offeatures more than 300 artists artists including Gio Edoardo Kobra,Edoardo Gio Kobra, Pistone, Pistone, Sten&Lex Diamond.and See Sten&Lex, Pablo and Echaurren MAAM Facebook page for details. Borondo. See MAAM Facebook page Via Prenestina 913. for details. Via Prenestina 913. Ostiense Ostiense Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Porto Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Fluviale. Porto Fluviale. Fish’n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via Fish’n’Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale. del Porto Fluviale. Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali. Magazzini Generali. Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense Via Ostiense. underpass, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense. Pigneto Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Pigneto Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71. Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.

Via Via Fanfulla Fanfulla da da Lodi. Lodi. 2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio. Fortebraccio. 2501 mural on Via Blu by Sten Blu Landscape Landscape by Sten & & Lex. Lex. Via Via Francesco Baracca. Francesco Baracca. Prati Prati Anna Magnaniportrait portrait by Diavù. Anna Magnani by Diavù. Nuovo Nuovo MercatoViaTrionfale, Via Mercato Trionfale, Andrea Doria. Andrea Doria. theSabotino. bear by Daniza the bear byDaniza ROA. Via ROA. Via Sabotino. Primavalle Primavalle The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via Cristoforo Numai. Cristoforo Numai. Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Theseus stabbing the Bembo. Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo. Quadraro Quadraro Tunnel murals by Mr THOMS and Gio Tunnel byMure. Mr THOMS and Pistone. murals Via Decio Gio Decio Mure. Via del NidoPistone. di Vespe Via by Lucamaleonte. Nido didel Vespe by Lucamaleonte. Via Monte Grano. del Monte Baby Hulkdel byGrano. Ron English. Via dei Baby PisoniHulk 89. by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89. Rebibbia Rebibbia Murals by Blu. Via Ciciliano and Via Murals by Blu. Via Palombini (Casal dèCiciliano Pazzi). and Via Palombini dè Pazzi). Welcome to(Casal Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Metro B station. Metro B station. S. Basilio S.SanBa Basilio features large-scale works on SanBa features large-scale works the façades of social-housing blockson in the of social-housing blocks the façades disadvantaged north-east suburb of in the disadvantaged north-east S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regenerasuburb of S.includes Basilio works near Rebibbia. tion project by Italian The project artistsregeneration Agostino Iacurci, Hitnesincludes and Blu works by Spain's ItalianLiqen. artistsViaAgostino alongside Maiolati, Iacurci, Hitnes and BluVia alongside Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Arcevia, Spain’s Via Treia.Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, Via Treia. S. Giovanni Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via S.Apulia Giovanni corner of Via Farsalo. Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.

32 | July-August 2020 • Wanted in Rome

It’s aa New NewDay Daybyby Alice Pasquini. It’s Alice Pasquini. Via Via Anton Ludovico. Anton Ludovico. S. Lorenzo Lorenzo S. AlicePasquini. Pasquini. ViaSabelli. dei Sabelli. Alice Via dei Feminicidemural mural Elisa Feminicide by Elisaby Caracciolo. Caracciolo. Via Dei Sardi.Via Dei Sardi. Borondo. Via Viadei deiVolsci Volsci159. 159. Borondo. Mural by by Agostino AgostinoIacurci Iacurci on Mural on the the Istituto Superiore di Lattanzio, Vittorio Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia. Via Aquilonia. Pietro S. Pietro UmaCabra Cabra Bordalo II. Stazione Uma byby Bordalo II. Stazione di S. Pietro, di Monte di S. Clivo Pietro, Clivo del di Gallo. Monte del Gallo. Testaccio Hunted Wolf by ROA. Via Galvani. Testaccio #KindComments AliceVia Pasquini, Via Hunted Wolf bybyROA. Galvani. Volta, Testaccio market. #KindComments by Alice Pasquini, Via Volta, Testaccio market. Tor Pignattara Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta. Tor Pignattara Etnik. Via Bartolomeo Perestrello 51. Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta. Coffee Etam Cru. Via Ludovico Etnik.Break ViabyBartolomeo Perestrello Pavoni. 51. Coﬀee Break by Etam Cru. Via Tom SawyerPavoni. by Jef Aerosol. Via Gabrio Ludovico Serbelloni. Tom Sawyer by Jef Aerosol. Via Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema Gabrio Serbelloni. Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Galeazzo Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Alessi. Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Herakut. Via Capua 14. Galeazzo Alessi. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Herakut. Via Capua 14. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Tor Marancia The Big City Life scheme features 14-m Tormurals Marancia tall by 22 Italian and internaThe Big City artists Life scheme features tional street including Mr 14-m tall by Jerico. 22 Italian and Klevra, Seth,murals Gaia and The idea international street was to transform theartists area's including blocks of Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia and Jerico. flats into an open-air art museum. Via TheMarancia. idea was to transform the area’s Tor www.bigcity.life.it. blocks of ﬂats into an open-air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. For full details see website, www.bigcity.life.it.

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth. Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

Wanted in Rome â&#x20AC;¢ July-August 2020 | 33

ROME'S MAJOR

MUSEUMS PLEASE NOTE THAT NOT ALL OF THESE MUSEUMS ARE CURRENTLY OPEN, DUE TO THE COVID-19 CRISIS. IT IS ADVISABLE TO CHECK WEBSITES FOR VISITING DETAILS AND MAKE RESERVATION BEFORE GOING.

VATICAN MUSEUMS

Crypta Balbi

Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums

Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

STATE MUSEUMS Baths of Diocletian

Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Borghese Museum

Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

34 | July-August 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian. Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's modern art collection. Mon closed.

MAXXI

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.

S Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS Casa di Goethe

CITY MUSEUMS

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Centrale Montemartini

Chiostro Del Bramante

Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

tudy abroad or earn your degree in Rome

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun.

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Galleria Colonna

Capitoline Museums

Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.

All classes in English Scholarships availableGiorgio de Chirico House Museum MATTATOIO MACRO Asilo

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space until the end of 2019. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Accepting applications Fall 2020 Museofor di Roma – Palazzo Braschi Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking.

Keats-Shelley House

Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking.

Museo storico della Liberazione

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it. Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from 1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.

Museo Canonica

MUSJA

Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).

Museo Napoleonico

Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.

Privately owned museum dedicated to modern and contemporary Italian and international art. Via dei Chiavari 7, tel. 0668210213, www.musja.it.

Palazzo Merulana

Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it. Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection, including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation. 09.00-20.00. Tues closed.

www.johncabot.edu admissions@johncabot.edu

Wanted in Rome • July-August 2020 | 35

MAXXI amazes you, ROME'S MAJOR always art

architecture MUSEUMS design photography cinema Crypta Balbi

PLEASE NOTE THAT NOT ALL OF THESE MUSEUMS ARE CURRENTLY OPEN, DUE TO THE COVID-19 CRISIS. IT IS ADVISABLE TO CHECK WEBSITES FOR VISITING DETAILS AND MAKE RESERVATION BEFORE GOING.

VATICAN MUSEUMS Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums

Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

STATE MUSEUMS Baths of Diocletian

Borghese Museum

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

36 | July-August 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's modern art collection. Mon closed.

MAXXI

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS Casa di Goethe

CITY MUSEUMS

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Centrale Montemartini

Chiostro Del Bramante

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Galleria Colonna

Capitoline Museums

Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

MACRO Asilo

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space until the end of 2019. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.

MATTATOIO

Giorgio de Chirico House Museum

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

Keats-Shelley House

Museo storico della Liberazione

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Museo Canonica

MUSJA

Museo Napoleonico

Privately owned museum dedicated to modern and contemporary Italian and international art. Via dei Chiavari 7, tel. 0668210213, www.musja.it.

Palazzo Merulana

Wanted in Rome • July-August 2020 | 37

PLEASE NOTE THAT NOT ALL OF THESE GALLERIES ARE CURRENTLY OPEN, DUE TO THE COVID-19 CRISIS. IT IS ADVISABLE TO CHECK WEBSITES FOR VISITING DETAILS AND TO MAKE RESERVATION BEFORE GOING.

ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY

ART GALLERIES

1/9 Unosunove

1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.

A.A.M. Architettura

Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ff-maam.it.

Contemporary Cluster

Visual art, design, architecture, fashion design and beauty apothecary in a 17th-century palace. Via dei Barbieri 7, tel. 0668805928, www.contemporarycluster.com.

C.R.E.T.A.

Cultural association promoting ceramics and the visual, humanistic, musical and culinary arts through workshops, exhibitions and artist residencies. Palazzo Delfini, Via dei Delfini 17, tel. 0689827701, www.cretarome.com.

Dorothy Circus Gallery

Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.

Ex Elettrofonica

This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.

Fondazione Memmo

Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.

Fondazione Pastificio Cerere

This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pastificiocerere.com.

Fondazione Volume!

The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.

38 | July-August 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Franz Paludetto

Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.

Frutta

This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via dei Salumi 53 tel. 0645508934, www.fruttagallery.com.

Gagosian Gallery

The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

GALLA

Exhibition space designed to showcase original, unconventional art works at affordable prices by artists working in various fields. Via degli Zingari 28, tel. 3476552515, www.facebook.com/GALLAmonti.

Galleria Alessandro Bonomo

Gallery showing the works of important Italian and international visual artists. Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858, www.bonomogallery.com.

Galleria Valentina Bonomo

Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works specifically for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte

Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Galleria della Tartaruga

Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.

Galleria Il Segno

Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.

Galleria Mucciaccia

Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.

Galleria Russo

Operativa Arte Contemporanea

A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.

Pian de Giullari

This historic gallery holds group and solo exhibitions showcasing the work of major 20th-century Italian painters alongside promising new Italian artists. Via Alibert 20, tel. 066789949, www.galleriarusso.it.

Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.

Galleria Varsi

Plus Arte Puls

A dynamic gallery near Campo deâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di Grotta Pinta 38, tel. 066865415, www.galleriavarsi.it.

Gavin Brown's Enterprise

New York gallerist Gavin Brown shows the work of international artists at his Trastevere gallery in a deconsecrated church dating to the eighth century. S. Andrea de Scaphis, Via dei Vascellari 69, www.gavinbrown.biz.

Il Ponte Contemporanea

Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls.com.

RvB ARTS

Rome-based gallery specialising in affordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www.rvbarts.com.

Sala 1

Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via Giuseppe Acerbi 31A, tel. 0653098768, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.

This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.

La Nuova Pesa

S.T. Foto libreria galleria

Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.

Magazzino dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Arte Moderna

Contemporary art gallery that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.

Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri

The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.

T293

Monitor

The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it.

Nero Gallery

The Gallery Apart

Space dedicated to showcasing young international artists working in pop surrealism, lowbrow art, dark art, comic art and surrealism. Via Castruccio Castracane 9, tel. 0627801418, www.nerogallery.com.

This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.

Nomas Foundation

TraleVolte

This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, t el. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.

Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.

Contemporary art gallery focusing on the relationship between art and architecture, hosting solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org.

White Noise Gallery

Based in the S. Lorenzo district, this gallery exhibits unconventional work by young Italian and international artists. Via della Seggiola 9, tel. 066832833, www.whitenoisegallery.it.

Wunderkammern

This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www.wunderkammern.net.

Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin

Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria offers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it. Wanted in Rome â&#x20AC;˘ July-August 2020 | 39

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where to go in Rome WHAT’S ON

The Capitoline Museums hosts an exhibition built around Caravaggio's Boy Bitten by a Lizard.

Wanted in Rome • July-August 2020 | 41

EXHIBITIONS The majority of Rome’s museums and galleries have reopened to the public following the covid-19 lockdown. Advance booking is mandatory and the wearing of masks in obligatory, with guests required to pass through a thermoscanner on arrival. The lack of tourists means that now is a great time to enjoy Rome’s crowd-free museums and exhibitions.

METAFORAMORFOSES

World Press Photo at Palazzo delle Esposizioni. Lee-Ann Olwage, Black Drag Magic Portrait of a Drag Artist and Activist, 2020 Photo Contest, Portraits, Singles, 2nd Prize.

25 June-25 July

The Dorothy Circus Gallery presents Metaforamorfoses, an exhibition by the Brazilian artist Rafael Silveira. Themed around the opportunities presented by change, the show will feature 12 oil paintings rich in symbology and the joyful colours typical of South American culture. In line with Italy’s social distancing measures the exhibition will be open by appointment only. Dorothy Circus Gallery, Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 68805928, www. dorothycircusgallery.it.

FILIPPO DE PISIS 17 June-20 Sept

Palazzo Altemps, one of Rome’s finest museums, presents a retrospective dedicated to the Italian artist and poet Filippo de Pisis (1896-1956).

The exhibition of 40 works on paper and watercolours highlights the sensitive, delicate nature of de Pisis who is best known for his cityscapes, metaphysically-inspired maritime scenes and still lifes. Later in life the extravagant de Pisis lived in Venice where he was ferried around in his personal gondola. Tickets must be purchased exclusively online via the Coopculture website, for more information tel. 0639967701. Palazzo Altemps, Piazza di S. Apollinare 46, www.coopculture.it.

IL TEMPO DI CARAVAGGIO 16 June-13 Sept

Rome pays tribute to Caravaggio with a new exhibition at Palazzo Caffarelli, part of the Capitoline

42 | July-August 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Museums. The show is centred around Caravaggio’s Boy Bitten by a Lizard, along with 40 works by the artists influenced by the master’s work in the 17th century. The paintings come from the collection of Roberto Longhi, one of the leading Italian art critics of the past century, on the 50th anniversary of his death. The Caravaggio exhibition will be followed later in September by the Torlonia Marbles blockbuster, postponed due to the covid-19 crisis. Musei Capitolini, Piazza del Campidoglio 1, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org.

WORLD PRESS PHOTO 16 June-2 Aug

The World Press Photo exhibition in Rome, initially scheduled to open in April and postponed due to covid-19, presents the 139 winning images in the 2020 contest. Each year an independent jury at the World Press Photo Foundation in Amsterdam selects images for this prestigious recognition of international photojournalism. The 63rd annual World Press Photo Contest drew entries from around the world: 4,282 photographers from 125 countries submitted 73,996 images. The jury gave prizes in eight categories to 44 photographers from 24 countries, with Yasuyoshi Chiba’s image Straight Voice announced as the 2020 World Press Photo

of the Year. The Rome exhibition features, for the first time, a selection of the most famous Photo of the Year prize-winners since 1955. Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Via Nazionale 194, tel. 06696271, www.palazzoesposizioni.it.

15 ANNI DI ROSSO20SETTE 13 June-17 July

Rosso20sette Arte Contemporanea celebrates 15 years in Rome with a group exhibition featuring the work of international street artists including JR, Obey, Pure Evil, D * Face and important Italian street artists including Maupal, Marco Rèa, Demetrio Di Grado and Pax Paloscia. Since Rosso20sette opened its first exhibition space in June 2005, it has staged more than 60 exhibitions with more than 300 exhibited artists, ranging from photography to street art. Curated by Tiziana Cino and Stefano Ferraro, the exhibition can be visited Tues-Sat 11.00-19.30. See cover of this edition by Pax Paloscia. Via del Sudario 39 (Largo Argentina), tel. 0664761113, www.rosso27.com.

RAPHAEL

2 June-30 Aug

This “unprecedented” exhibition dedicated to Raffaello Sanzio da Urbino, better known as Raphael,

Woman with a veil is part of the Raphael blockbuster in Rome this summer.

to mark the 500th anniversary of the death of the High Renaissance artist and architect has reopened at the Scuderie del Quirinale. The show was closed just days after opening in March, due to Italy’s covid-19 lockdown, and it is now open strictly by appointment, with masks obligatory. The blockbuster show features more than 200 masterpieces – never before gathered in the same place – including paintings and sketches as well as comparison works. About 100 of the works are by Raphael himself, with 40 paintings on loan from the Uffizi in Florence and others from major world museums. The exhibition includes the Madonna del Granduca and Woman with a Veil from the Uffizi; the Portrait of Baldassarre Castiglione and Self-Portrait with Friend from the Louvre, and the Madonna of the Rose from the Prado. Open until 01.00 at weekends. Scuderie del Quirinale, Via XXIV Maggio 16, tel. 0292897722, www. scuderiequirinale.it.

REMBRANDT AT GALLERIA CORSINI 2 June-30 Sept

Boy Bitten by a Lizard by Caravaggio at Palazzo Caffarelli.

Galleria Corsini showcases Rembrandt’s Self Portrait as St Paul, in an historic return for the masterpiece which has not been seen in Rome for more than two centuries. The painting, on loan from the Rijksmuseum in

Amsterdam, originally belonged to the noble Corsini family but was sold to art dealers – apparently without the knowledge of Prince Tomasso Corsini – during the French occupation of 1799. The exhibition also includes a selection of engravings by Rembrandt from the Corsini collection. Galleria Corsini, Via della Lungara 10, tel. 0668802323, www. barberinicorsini.org.

ARA GÜLER

2 June-20 Sept

The Museo di Roma in Trastevere dedicates an exhibition to Ara Güler (1928-2018) ranked one of the seven best photographers in the world by the British Journal of Photography Yearbook. The exhibition is composed largely of photographs of Istanbul taken by Güler since the 1950s, the decade in which he was recruited by Henri Cartier-Bresson for the Magnum Agency, becoming correspondent for the Near East. A lucid observer of Turkish history and society, the Armenian photographer bequeathed an archive of over two million photos, some of which can be seen in Rome. In addition to the 45 black and white views of Istanbul, there are 37 portraits of well-known cultural, political and religious figures including Federico Fellini, Sophia Loren and Pope Paul VI. Museo di Roma in Trastevere,

Wanted in Rome • July-August 2020 | 43

44 | July-August 2020 â&#x20AC;¢ Wanted in Rome

Galleria Rosso20sette celebrates 15 years. Shepard Fairey aka Obey, Natural Springs.

Piazza S. Egidio 1/b, tel. 060608, www.museodiromaintrastevere.it.

C’ERA UNA VOLTA SERGIO LEONE 17 Dec-3 May

Rome pays tribute to the celebrated Italian film director, producer

and screenwriter Sergio Leone (1929-1989) with an exhibition at the Ara Pacis museum. Known primarily for popularising the Spaghetti Western genre with films such as The Good, The Bad and The Ugly and Once Upon a Time in the West, Leone is also credited with influencing a new generation of directors, notably Quentin Tarantino. Organised by the Cineteca di Bologna, produced and curated in collaboration with the Cinémathèque Française and the Istituto Luce Cinecittà, the “multisensory exhibition” offers insights into Leone’s cult films as well as his personal and professional life. Museo dell’Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta, tel. 060608, www.arapacis.it.

ELLIOTT ERWITT: ICONS 2 June-30 Aug

Around 70 of the best known images by Elliott Erwitt, one of the world’s great masters of contemporary photography, are on display at WeGil, the cultural hub of the Lazio region in the Trastevere district. Erwitt has captured some of the most important moments in 20th-century history, from

the meeting between Nixon and Khrushchev to the image of Jackie Kennedy at her husband’s funeral. Among the photographs on display in Rome are portraits of Che Guevara, Marlene Dietrich and Marilyn Monroe. The exhibition also includes images which illustrate a more intimate side to the photographer, with a nod to his love of the surreal and romantic, including the celebrated California Kiss, self-portraits and photographs of his first-born baby girl. WeGil, Largo Ascianghi 5, Trastevere, www.wegil.it.

JIM DINE

11 Feb-2 June

Palazzo delle Esposizioni honours Jim Dine, the celebrated American exponent of Pop Art and the NeoDada movement, with an exhibition of around 80 works created between 1959 and 2016. The show also includes the works donated to the Centre George Pompidou by Dine who was elected as an academician by Rome’s prestigious Accademia Nazionale di S. Luca in 2018. Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Via Nazionale 194, tel. 06696271, www.palazzoesposizioni.it.

CLASSICAL ACCAMEDIA FILARMONICA ROMANA The AFR has relaunched parts of its 2020 programme under the heading Insieme, Dal Vivo, to reboot what remains of its musical season. It has rescheduled some of its programmed concerts, giving the performers as well as the audience a chance to pick up almost from where the AFR left off when the covid-19 lockdown started in mid-March. There will be three concerts in the Assoli series (two on 5 July and one of 12 July). Assoli promotes

contemporary music, performed mainly by young musicians. The concert on 12 July includes three first-time performances of music by Lucio Gregoretti, Marcello Panni and Luis De Pablo performed by Andrea Biagini, flute, and Luigi Sini guitar. There are also concerts for children on 28 June and 5 July. Four evenings will be dedicated to promising young musicians. On 28 June Giorgio Trione Bartoli, piano, plays music by Rachmaninov. On 2 July the Duo Margoni - Loperfido (Ivos Margoni violin and Giulia Loperfido piano) performs music by Beethoven, Schumann and Franck. On 7 July Simone Ivaldi, piano, plays

Giorgio Trioni Bartoli performs for Accademia Filarmonica Romana.

music by Beethoven, Clementi and Schumann. On 9 July Claudio Berra, piano, plays music by Beethoven, Schumann and Debussy. All concerts are in the Sala Casella at the AFR’s home base, Via Flaminia 118, www. filarmonicaromana.org.

Wanted in Rome • July-August 2020 | 45

FESTIVALS Planning for the summer music and opera festivals has been extremely difficult not just because dates have been uncertain but also because the cover-19 lockdown has made rehearsals almost impossible and travel schedules for everyone have been up in the air, especially for international artists. However almost all festivals are adapting as best they can to the new distancing conditions. Needless to say programmes are changing all the time so check the festival's website and the usual social media channels. We apologise for any mistaken information about festival schedules in the June edition of Wanted in Rome but that's what we had available at the time. Since then there has been a great deal of activity behind the festival scenes, much of which is still going on. What we do know in date order:

RAVENNA FESTIVAL

21 June-30 July, 6-15 Nov

This festival is going ahead in an impressive effort to put the covid-19 pandemic behind us. Looking at the extensive programme it is almost as though Italy had not been in lockdown for nearly three months. Riccardo Muti, who is the force behind the festival, conducted the opening concert on 21 June at the Rocca Brancaleone with his Luigi Cherubini Youth Orchestra and soloist Rosa Feola with music by Scriabin and Mozart. The festival organisation is planning 40 events and the full programme is now on the festival website. All social distancing regulations will be in force, with strictly controlled access to each location. Wearing masks will be compulsory. There are numerous concerts from

Rome's summer opera season moves to the Circus Maximus.

classical to contemporary music, with two of the lead concerts in the Le Vie dellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Amicizia series, this year for Syria, both conducted by Riccardo Muti. The one on 3 July is at the Rocca Brancaleone in Ravenna and on 5 July, again conducted by Riccardo Muti, at Paestum. The concerts this year are dedicated to Hevrin Khalaf, a Kurdish-Syrian woman killed in an ambush in 2019. Paestum and the devastated Syrian city of Palmyra are culturally very close as World Heritage Sites and a twinning initiative was launched in 2018 in memory of the murdered head of

46 | July-August 2020 â&#x20AC;˘ Wanted in Rome

antiquities Khaled Al-Asaad. Both concerts will feature Beethovenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Eroica symphony. There are tributes to Beethoven 250 years after his death and so much more, from film music to jazz. The main dance event called Duets and Solos on 18 July is curated by Daniele Cipriani involving international stars, choreographies and music, with Mario Brunello on the cello and Beatrice Rana piano. The November opera festival from 6-15 Nov spotlights Dante Alighieri 700 years after his death in Ravenna in 1321 in Project Dante, the divine the human and

the diabolical. It begins with three performances (6, 10, 13 Nov) by the controversial dancer Sergej Polunin (the man with a Vladimir tattoo on his chest who was fired by the Paris Opera Ballet in 2019), followed by two operas, Mozart’s Don Giovanni (7, 11, 14 Nov) and Gounod’s Faust (8, 12, 15 Nov). www.ravennafestival.org.

TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA 16 July-13 Aug

Rome’s 2020 summer opera season presented by the city’s opera house will take place at the Circus Maximus, which will host a total of 21 shows under the stars, beginning with Verdi’s Rigoletto conducted by Daniele Gatti, on 16 July. Construction work on the stage and seating began in recent days, and an added bonus of the prestigious location is being based right beside the workshop that makes the opera house’s sets, scenery and costumes. The programme includes The Barber of Seville (22 July-13 Aug) and The Merry Widow (31 July-12 Aug), both of which will be conducted by Stefano Montanari. Also to look forward

to are Le Quattro Stagioni, a ballet based on Vivaldi’s Four Seasons (25 July-3 Aug), and Omaggio a Roma, with stars Anna Netrebko and Yusif Eyvazov (6-9 Aug). Rome’s summer opera season normally takes place at the Baths of Caracalla – since 1937 – but the historic venue was ruled out definitively for being “incompatible” with the new covid-19 social distancing rules, which allow for a maximum of 1,000 spectators. Piazza di Siena in the central Villa Borghese park had been proposed initially as an alternative summer venue for 2020, however in the end the opera house settled on the Circus Maximus. The move is part of the city’s summer ‘Romarama’ programme which will be based mainly at four venues: the Cavea of the Auditorium Parco della Musica, the outdoor space of Teatro India, the city’s parks, and the “piazza” at MAXXI. All performances scheduled for the Teatro dell’Opera’s cancelled 2020 summer season at the Baths of Caracalla have been moved to the 2021 season, with this year’s tickets valid for next summer season. For full details about the summer 2020 opera season, including tickets, see Teatro dell’Opera di Roma website, www.operaroma.it.

MACERATA OPERA FESTIVAL 17 July-9 Aug

The Macerata festival is going ahead in the Sferisterio theatre with the theme of Biancoraggio, which seems appropriate for this covid-19 year, but in a reduced version to what was originally announced. Of the three operas initially on the

programme – Tosca, Don Giovanni and Il Trovatore – only Mozart’s Don Giovanni will be staged, with its premiere on 18 July and then performances on 24, 26 and 31 July, 2 and 8 Aug, and perhaps a few other dates. It is directed by David Livermore. Tosca, a new production directed by Argentinian director Valentina Carrasco, has been rescheduled for 2022 and Il Trovatore, to be directed by Francisco Negrin, will be in concert form only on two evenings. Part of the problems for the reduced programme is the decrease in ticket sales because of covid-19 health and social distancing regulations and part the lack of available indoor rehearsal space. Don Giovanni has been chosen because it is a co-production that has already been staged and because it has a manageable number of instrumental and vocal performers. There are several other concerts and one dance event. Check the website for confirmation of all dates and times as they may be subject to last minute change, www.sferisterio.it.

INCONTRI IN TERRA DI SIENA 21 July-30 July

This exclusive and very top-quality festival in and around the house and grounds of La Foce, belonging to the family of Iris Origo, is going ahead with two live socially-distanced concerts in La Foce courtyard on 21 and 26 July and three webcasts on 23, 28, 30 July with virtual dinner, music, interviews, a guided tour of the gardens and special chefs’ menus for web participants to be made at home. www.itslafoce.org.

PUCCINI OPERA FESTIVAL 6-21 Aug

The Puccini festival at Torre del Lago near Lucca continues, with two more Puccini operas in Aug following on after Gianni Schicchi on 27 June directed by Valentina Carrasco, Tosca directed by Stefano Monti on 6 and 14 Aug, and Madama Butterfly directed by Manu Lalli on 8 and 21 Aug. There are also various concerts and other events. Antonio Pappano conducting the S. Cecilia orchestra Wanted in Rome • July-August 2020 | 47

will perform on 28 July. The events, which include compositions by young composers inspired by Tosca, will take place at Torre del Lago as well as other places in the vicinity. The original 2020 programme will be moved to 2021. www. puccinifestival.it.

ARENA FESTIVAL VERONA 25 July-29 Aug

Having announced that all the 2020 events were re-scheduled for 2021 the Arena Festival in Verona now has a programme of concerts with the Arena Orchestra led by various conductors dedicated to Mozart, Wagner, Verdi, Vivaldi, Rossini, Puccini. Two events will be led by Placido Domingo on 28-29 Aug, one his own concert and the other conducted by him. www.arena.it.

ROSSINI OPERA FESTIVAL 8-20 Aug

The festival goes ahead in Pesaro with a new production of La cambiale di matrimonio (8, 11, 13, 17, 20 Aug) at the Teatro Rossini with the orchestra in the stalls and the audience in the boxes. It will be conducted by Dmitry Korchak, in his debut as the conductor of the Orchestra Sinfonica Rossini. It is a co-production with Royal Opera House Muscat and will be staged there in Jan 2021. The last performance on 20 Aug will be streamed live on the website www.rossinioperafestival.it and in Pesaro's Piazza del Popolo as per tradition. Il Viaggio a Reims will also be staged in the square (12, 15 Aug) as will various concerts with an impressive list of Rossini singers, Olga Peretyatko (9 Aug), Jessica Pratt (14 Aug) and Juan Diego Florez (16 Aug) among them. More details will be released on the festival's website www.rossinioperafestival. it. Moïse e Pharaon and Elisabetta Regina d'Inghilterra which were on the original programme have been postponed until 2021.

FESTIVAL DEI DUE MONDI 20-23 and 27-30 Aug

The famous Spoleto festival is usually held in July. This year the 2020 season has been cancelled but the festival's board has agreed

The Piazza del Duomo in Spoleto which will host eight special events in August.

eight events on two weekends at the end of August. It opens on 20 Aug with Monteverdi's Orfeo in the Piazza Duomo. On 21 Aug Emma Dante directs a musical event called Messaggeri with songs and music. On 22 Aug Piazza Duomo hosts three three theatrical events, monodramas for a women's chorus and orchestra called Arianna, Fedra and Didone with Roberto Abbado conducting the Orchestra Giovanile Italiana. On 23 Aug there will be a piano concert by Beatrice Rana. On 27 Aug Monica Belluci leads the event Maria Callas Lettere e Memorie with text by Tom Volf. On 28 Aug the orchestra of the Teatro Carlo Felice di Genoa performs Le Creature di Promoteo / Le Creature di Capucci with music by Beethoven and original

48 | July-August 2020 • Wanted in Rome

costumes by Roberto Capucci. 29 Aug Luca Zingaretti reads La Sirena by Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa and the closing concert in Piazza Duomo is conducted by Riccardo Muti with the Orchestra Giovanile Luigi Cherubini. Tickets will be at a discount. www.festivaldispoleto. com.

MITO SETTEMBRE MUSICA 3-21 Sept

Milan and Turin, two of the cities worst hit by the covid-19 pandemic, usually stage an ambitious series of concerts every September. The website www.mitosettembremusica. it says bravely “See you in September” and the programme will be announced in July. www. mitosettembremusica.it.

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Renzo Piano received a Lifetime Achievement Award in Rome.

ART NEWS RENZO PIANO HONOURED BY MAXXI

The acclaimed Italian architect Renzo Piano received a Lifetime Achievement Award on 18 June during a digital culture marathon by Rome’s MAXXI National Museum of the 21st Century Arts. The accolade, part of the Italian Architecture Award 2020, was organised by MAXXI and the Triennale Milano, with the support of Italy’s culture ministry. The award was presented virtually to Piano by MAXXI president Giovanna Melandri, as the museum celebrated its 10th anniversary in Rome. The international jury approved the recipient unanimously, underlining “the professional and civil commitment that has marked and continues to mark Piano’s architectural production and his tireless work of promoting the quality and public value of architecture.” Born in Genoa in 1937, Piano is best known for his high-tech public spaces, particularly his design (with Richard Rogers) for the Centre Georges Pompidou in Paris (1971-77), the Auditorium Parco della Musica in Rome (1994-2002) and The Shard in London (200012). More recently Piano designed the new bridge for his home town Genoa, free of charge, to replace the Morandi bridge which collapsed on 14 August 2018 leading to the deaths of 43 people. Considered Italy’s greatest living architect, Piano was named a senator for life in 2013 by then Italian president Giorgio Napolitano, giving him the right to vote in the parliament’s upper house. The Premio Italiano di Architettura, which will take place annually, recognises the architectural production of Italian designers, or those active in Italy, whose commitment is orientated towards innovation, quality and the social role of architecture. In addition to Piano’s Lifetime Achievement Award, there will be awards for best building or project carried out in the last three

50 | July-August 2020 • Wanted in Rome

years, including by architects under 40, to be announced in an award ceremony at MAXXI on 30 June.

LIVING CHAPEL IN ROME

Rome’s Botanic Gardens hosts an installation this summer called The Living Chapel, launched to mark World Environment Day on 5 June. Made of recycled material, the installation is covered entirely with young plants and trees and is equipped with a music system generated by water. The project was conceived by the Australian-Canadian composer Julian Darius Reviel who, with the help of 100 volunteer students, sought to recreate the Porziuncola chapel of St Francis in Assisi. The recycled aluminum structure was covered by 3,000 permanent ornamental plants and thousands of young trees from the forests of central Europe and a collection of ancient fruit trees from Umbria. The project promotes the “greening” the planet, in line with Pope Francis’s Laudato sì encyclical and the principles of the UN’s 2030 Agenda for Sustainable Development. Sound installations have been created by turning oil barrels into musical instruments which, animated by a flow of water drops, create a continuous musical symphony. The project represents a “place of profound harmony between nature, music, art, architecture and humanity” according to Rome’s La Sapienza University which manages the Orto Botanico. At the end of the summer the structure will be dismantled and the trees will be donated to green areas and used in the creation of new gardens. The Living Chapel is open Mon-Sun 09.0018.30. Reservations are required (ortobotanicoroma@ yahoo.com or tel. 0649917135). For information see website, web.uniroma1.it/ortobotanico. The Orto Botanico entrance is at Largo Cristina di Svezia 23A, near Galleria Corsini in the Trastevere district. Andy Devane

lassical lassical

The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a definitive list of all the music that is available in the city. The following is a list of the main musical There are also concerts in many of the associations in Rome but it is not a definitive churches and sometimes in the museums. list of all the music that is available in the city. There are also concerts in many of the Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della churches and sometimes in the museums. Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Auditorium Conciliazione, ViaP. de della Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Accademia Filarmonica Teatro Auditorium Parco della Romana, Musica, Viale P. de Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro starts on 15 Oct Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season concerts Parco della Musica. The startsat onAuditorium 15 Oct newAccademia season startsS. on 5Cecilia, Oct www.santacecilia.it. All

concerts Universitaria at Auditorium Parco della Musica. Istituzione dei Concerti, AulaThe newUniversità season starts on 5 Oct www.concertiiuc.it Magna, la Sapienza,

Istituzione Universitaria deiGonfalone Concerti,32a, Aula Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it www.oratoriogonfalone.com Oratorio delMethodist Gonfalone, Via delPiazza Gonfalone 32a, RomeConcerts, Church, Ponte www.oratoriogonfalone.com S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it RomeConcerts, Piazza Ponte Roma Sinfonietta, Methodist AuditoriumChurch, Ennio Morricone, S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Roma Auditorium Roma Tre Sinfonietta, Orchestra, some concertsEnnio are atMorricone, Teatro Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others at Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are are at Teatro the Aula Magna, Piazza Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, 8, Palladium, Bartolomeo Romano Universita Roma Tre, Via while Ostienze teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, others234, are at www.r30.org the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Tre,festivals Via Ostienze 234, There are oftenRoma concerts, and opera www.r30.org recitals in several churches in Rome.

often concerts, festivals and153, opera All There Saints' are Anglican Church, Via Babuino recitals in several churches in Rome. www.allsaintsrome.org All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. www.allsaintsrome.org Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7 Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com

Oratorio del Caravita, Caravita St Paul's Within the Walls,Via Viadella Nazionale and7 the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the S. Agnese Sagrestia del Borromini, corner ofin ViaAgone, Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it Piazza Navona S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Palazzo PiazzaDoria NavonaPamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum Serenades by Night Dinner throughout and Opera dinner afterwards. Viawith del Corso 305, the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum www.doriapamphilj.com and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com | Jan 2019 • Wanted Rome 50 |48 Oct 2018 • Wanted in in Rome

MUSIC MUSIC THEATR THEATRE CINEMA CINEMA VENUES VENUES

MUSIC THEATRE CINEMA DANCE OPERA

inema inema

The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wantedshow in Rome website for The following cinemas movies in English weekly updates. or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for Adriano, Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 weeklyPiazza updates. Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 0686391361 Barberini, Piazza BarberiniMastroianni 24-26, 1, tel. Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello 0686391361 tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it 068553485 Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 068553485 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 066861068 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 066861068 Odeon, Piazza Stefano 22, tel. Nuovo Sacher, LargoJacini Ascianghi 1, 0686391361 tel. 065818116

Space Moderno, Piazza della 44, tel. Odeon, Piazza Stefano JaciniRepubblica 22, tel. 0686391361 06892111 Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebec06892111 chini 3-5, tel. 06892111 Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111 Wanted in Rome • July-August 2020 | 51

ddance oopera p pop r ock r ance

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano www.teatrovascello.it 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it

pera

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

ock

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Concert venues ranging from major pop and Alexanderplatz, 9, tel. 0683775604 rock groups to Via jazzOstia and acoustic gigs. www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org Angelo Mai Via Atlantico delle Terme di Atlantico, VialeAltrove, dell’Oceano 271d, Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it

Atlantico, Viale Atlantico Auditorium Parcodell’Oceano della Musica, Viale 271d, P. de tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com Auditorium della Viale de Casa del Jazz, Parco Viale di PortaMusica, Ardeatina 55,P.tel. Coubertin,www.casajazz.it tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com 06704731,

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

heatre heatre

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net www.teatrobelli.it Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobelli.it www.teatrobrancaccio.it Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatrobrancaccio.it www.teatroghione.it Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. www.teatroghione.it 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net 50 | Jan 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com Lanificio 159,ViaVia di Pietralata 159, Live Alcazar, Cardinale Merry del Valtel. 14, 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com Live Alcazar, Merry del 35, Val 14, Monk Club, Via ViaCardinale Giuseppe Mirri tel. tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com 0664850987, www.monkroma.it Monk Club, ViaPiazzale Giuseppe Mirri 35,1, tel. PalaLottomatica, dello Sport tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it PalaLottomatica, Piazzale Sport 1, tel. Rock in Roma, Via Appiadello Nuova 1245, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it www.teatrosangenesio.it Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsiwww.teatrosangenesio.it stina.it Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.ilsistina.it www.teatrovascello.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Vittoria,www.teatrovascello.it Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. tel. 065898031, 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Wanted in51Rome July-August 2020 | 53 | Oct •2018 • Wanted in Rome

Roma Opera aperta

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opera al circo massimo GIUSEPPE VERDI

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JULY 25, 26, 30 AUGUST 2, 3 BALLET

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MUSIC ANTONIO VIVALDI

DIRECTOR AND CHOREOGRAPHER GIULIANO PEPARINI JULY 31 AUGUST 5, 7,12 OPERA IN CONCERT FORM AUGUST 6, 9 EXCEPTIONAL CONCERT

FRANZ LEHÁR

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Ettore Festa, HaunagDesign - Illustration by Gianluigi Toccafondo

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In an ever growing global community, health care is not limited to a person's home country: people from every culture can find what they need to feel themselves at home in Campus Bio-Medico University Hospital of Rome

Your Passport to Worldclass Healthcare Campus Bio-Medico University Hospital of Rome provides: • Coordination of Hospital, physician and diagnostic appointments • Free of charge translation services for all the procedures • 12 hours medical services, including air ambulance transfer coordination • Partnership with major International Insurance Companies • Elevated International Standard and sole General Hospital JCI Accredited in Rome Whether you are a patient, family member or friend feel free to contact us at: Hospitaly - International Patients Program Officer Via Álvaro del Portillo, 200 - Rome (Italy) mail: info@hospitaly.it - phone: 0039.06.22541.8852 56 | July-August 2020 • Wanted in Rome

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agorski

By Kate Z

TONNARELLI CACIO E PEPE Cacio e pepe is a classic Roman pasta tradition which, until recently, was somewhat unknown outside of Italy. However, the last couple of years have seen the international food scene embrace this simple dish which was born from humble necessity, giving it a more glamorous lease of life. The dish originated in the Lazio countryside where shepherds would pack food to carry with them on the long journeys to move their flocks. Alongside cured meat products they would also take chunks of the local aged sheep milk cheese (which did not need refrigeration), handmade flour and water pasta that could be eaten dried for carbohydrates, and black pepper to stimulate warmth. These three ingredients eventually involved into the pasta dish we know and love, and the origins underline once and for all that there is no place for butter or oil in the authentic recipe. Nowadays cacio e pepe is usually served with a long, square-cut, fresh egg pasta called tonnarelli which gives an added richness to the dish and speeds up cooking time, but normal dried spaghetti can also be used. As with most seemingly easy recipes, the trick is in the timing and testing the perfect ratio of ingredients. Sadly, overcooking and not enough mixing will often result in a sticky, unpleasant final dish rather than the silky, creamy cheese sauce with a punch of pepper which constitutes the perfect result. The recipe below utilises a little-known trick of heating the pepper in a pan of water to infuse the flavour before finishing the cooking of the pasta in the peppery liquid. Extra starchy cooking water and continuous mixing of the cheese should ensure the right consistency but, as any Roman will tell you, practice makes perfect.

Ingredients Serves 2 250g fresh tonnarelli 70g pecorino romano, finely grated 190ml cold water 26 twists freshly ground black pepper

Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil. In a separate frying pan, heat 190ml of cold water and twist in the black pepper with a pepper mill. Cook on a medium heat until it just begins to simmer. Cook the tonnarelli in the saucepan of boiling water as per the packet instructions but drain one minute before the end of the suggested cooking time, keeping aside the starchy pasta water. Place the tonnarelli in the frying pan of peppery water and cook for the final minute, stirring well. Gradually add in 1-2 cups of the starchy pasta water as you go. When the pasta is al dente remove the pan from the heat and quickly add the pecorino, stirring immediately. Toss the pan for 30 seconds, building up the creamy sauce. If the mixture is too dry add a little more cooking water and just keep stirring. Serve immediately with an extra sprinkling of pecorino romano and another good crack of black pepper. Wanted in Rome â&#x20AC;˘ July-August 2020 | 57

Associations American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com Daughters of the American Revolution Pax Romana Chapter NSDAR paxromana@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com

International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490, www.iwcofrome.it Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 3338466820 Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Woman’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com

Books The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified. Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 Anglo American Bookshop Via delle Vite 102, tel. 066795222 Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it

Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484 Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com Otherwise Via del Governo Vecchio, tel. 066879825, www.otherwisebookshop.com St Patrick’s English-Language Lending Library Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 0688818727, Sun 10.00-12.30, Tues 10.00-14.00, Wed 15.00-18.00, Thurs 11.00-15.30

Religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881 Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish)

58 | July-August 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 3332284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday Service 10.30

Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei SS. Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Roma Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic) Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00

Support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.com Archè (HIV+children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/06582045580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 3381675680

Transport • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157066645-064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it

St Isidore College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic), Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827, www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri” Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022

Chiamaroma 24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Emergency numbers • • • • • • •

Ambulance tel. 118 Carabinieri tel. 112 Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 Fire brigade tel. 115 Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 Police tel. 113 Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355

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