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THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME
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la traviata Ettore Festa, HaunagDesign - Illustrations by Gianluigi Toccafondo
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CONT
EDITORIALS IN LAMPEDUSA Mary Wilsey
10. THE MYTH OF SAN MICHELE MARGARET STENHOUSE
14. INTERVIEW WITH ROME STREET ARTIST DIAVÙ ANDY DEVANE
16. TO DO JULY 18. TO DO AUGUST 20. BEACHES near ROME 22. outdoor POOLS in ROME 24. MUSEUMS 28. ART GALLERIES 50. CULTURAL VENUES 54. STREET ART guide 57. RECIPE 58. PUNTARELLA ROSSA 62. USEFUL NUMBERS
ONLINE CLASSIFIEDS As of 1 January 2019 classified advertisements will no longer appear in the magazine but may be published around the clock on our website www.wantedinrome.com. DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: Marco Venturini EDITRICE: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9 PROGETTO GRAFICO E IMPAGINAZIONE: Dali Studio Srl STAMPA: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c. DIFFUSIONE: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425. Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131del 6/3/1985. Finito di stampare il 29/06/2019
THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME
Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 11, Numero 7 JULY/AUGUST 2019 | € 2,00
4. ROTHKO
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33. EXHIBITIONS 38. art news 40. ROCK, pop, JAZZ 40. DANCE 43. festivals 48. OPERA 49. academies
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Loose Ends For A Start by MILLO Acrylic on canvas, 2019. Exhibition by MILLO and Hikari Shimoda at Dorothy Circus Gallery until 13 July. For details see page 33.
ENTS 4
ROTHKO IN LAMPEDUSA
14
8
DIAVÙ INTERVIEW
THE MYTH OF SAN MICHELE
18 TO DO
Art
ROTHKO IN LAMPEDUSA The United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees offered five young refugee artists a residency in Venice during May to coincide with the Biennale Mary Wilsey
B
arca Nostra lies at the far end of the Arsenale in Venice. To get to it you have to make your way through seemingly endless installations in this section of the Biennale, some well lit, some in disorienting darkness. It’s a bit like shopping in an oldfashioned department store: you know what you want but first you have to go through sections of what you don’t want, stopping occasionally to look at something exotic that catches your eye. After making your way through several wings of the Arsenale, once the home of the Venetian republic’s shipyards and armoury, you are out in the open again, looking over the now almost empty docks. In the stark light of May-time Venice there it is, the fishing boat in which over 800 people lost their lives four years ago. It is at once overpoweringly big – as it soars above you with the gaping holes in its side – and too small. How could over 800 people have been crammed into that hull? There were less than 800 viewing the art in the Arsenale that morning; to have loaded all of them into a similar craft and set off into the windy Adriatic would have been inconceivable. And yet that’s what happened in April 2015 when this fishing boat was loaded up in Libya and then collided with a freighter in international waters between Libya and Lampedusa. There were only 28 survivors. The exact number of Barca Nostra has been brought to Venice by Swiss artist Christoph Büchel.
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those who drowned still isn’t known; boats full of refugees don’t have passenger lists. Barca Nostra has been brought to the Venice Biennale by Swiss artist Christoph Büchel. There has been much discussion as to whether it is art. One critic has pointed out that it doesn’t have a label to tell you what it is; isn’t that just the point? These boats don’t have labels. Other criticism opines that showing off the boat is exploiting
Art people’s misery; isn’t that just the point too? This is exactly what human traffickers do when they cram over 800 people into a fishing boat with enough space for about 15. Whether or not you decide this wreck merits the label “art”, there is no ducking the fact that one way or another Barca Nostra is indeed Our Boat. This boat is our boat and its tragedy is our tragedy too. But there is more than tragedy on show in Venice this year; there is also the success that follows tragedy. Off the tracks of the official Biennale, down one of the winding streets of Dorsoduro, is a small exhibition called Rothko in Lampedusa* organised by the United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees (UNHCR) and sponsored by the big Italian bank Unicredit. In Palazzo Querini there are the works of eight well-known artists who have made forced displacement a major theme of their work and five lesser-known ones who are now beginning to make their names. The five were selected from a much longer list of about 20 for a month-long residence in Venice during May to coincide with this year’s Biennale. But one, Hassan Yare from Somalia, who lives in the sprawling Dadaab camp in northern Kenya, didn’t make the residency although his cartoons of life in Dadaab are on display. The obvious tie-in with the boat theme is in the first room of the building with the moving series of charcoal drawings of a rescue at sea called Politics of drawing, Lampedusa, 2019 by established artist Adel Abdessemed. Ai Weiwei, the celebrity of the show, supplies the link with the Rothko theme showing a small, understated,
Mohamed Keita started his photographic career around Rome's Stazione Termini.
rectangular block of black Lego bricks, which he wittily titles One millimetre taller than Rothko’s black, black on wine, 1968. Almost all the work of the established artists distills a sense of unease. Christian Boltanski’s room full of gold survival blankets under a swaying light immediately makes you feel seasick in a claustrophobic space you sense is full of bodies. Richard Mosse’s large-scale people-less heat maps of vast industrial spaces are a chilling reminder of the military use of modern photographic techniques. Abu Bakarr Mansaray’s work Ebola Virus Missile Industry oozes the evils of war not just in its title but also through all the minute details of its composition. Artur Zmijewski’s video portraits of black urban workers capture their unbearably haunted and bewildered expressions as the camera mercilessly strips them of their dignity. In contrast, the work of the five young artists has none of this edginess of despair or violence. Mohamed Keita, who fled the civil war in the Ivory Coast when he was 14 and arrived in Italy
A frame from Majid Adin's animation for Myela, the Nick Mulvey song.
Wanted in Rome • July-August 2019 | 5
Art of the family he had left behind and therefore felt that he must have something to remind him of the life he is now living, mainly around Stazione Termini. What is particularly touching about his work is that, unlike Zmijewski, he makes his point without showing the subject’s face. He focuses on feet, on backs, on just the body-shaped lump of a homeless person in a sleeping bag. This is intentional, he explains, in order to maintain the other person’s privacy and dignity. Majid Adin’s animation for Myela, a song by Nick Mulvey, is masterful, and tells a simpler and even more moving tale than his award-winning animation for the YouTube video of Elton John’s Rocket Man. Both reflect Adin’s own experiences on his journey from Iran (which he left because his criticism of conservative religious practices had alerted the police and forced him into hiding), through the Calais Jungle and then in a refrigerator lorry to the UK. Myela is in part based on the story of the escape by boat of a young pregnant Sudanese woman to Lampedusa (“God only knows how she survived, so many other families have died,” goes a verse of the song). It narrates the hope, the danger, the despair and then finally the plea to free her “from the cage of this supposed civilisation”. Bnar Sardar Sidiq, who comes from the Kurdistan region of Iraq and now lives in Bristol, displays a photo story of two families, one Christian and the other Sunni Muslim, living under the same roof in a small refugee community. The photos of everyday life in this temporary home are unusually tender and loving. The old woman preparing her husband (one assumes) for a haircut and the middle-aged man feeding a disabled person lying helpless in the background are perhaps the most memorable.
Rasha Deeb with one of her three-metre high sculptures.
three years later, now lives and works in Rome. His photos have an unusual tranquillity about them, even though they are often against the background of urban degradation. He said he started photography when he arrived in Rome, largely because he didn’t have any photographs 6 | July-August 2019 • Wanted in Rome
The small sculptures in wood and stone by Rasha Deeb from Damascus, who is now based in Germany, give an idea of both how complex and how simple her work can be. Some of these small works in wood and stone are elaborately carved; others are plain, polished shapes in stone. Sadly, their details were difficult to pick out, placed as they were against the light. A better indication of what Deeb can create (she also paints in watercolour and acrylic) comes from the video playing in another Venice venue, in the Istituto Europeo di Disegno (IED) on the second
Wanted in Rome • July-August 2019 | 7
Art floor of Palazzo Franchetti, where the Dubuffet in Venice exhibition is showing. It films her usual way of working, wielding a hefty chainsaw to cut into the huge tree trunks she transforms into her three-metre-high sculptures. She explains that she had wanted to bring one of them to Venice but that it was just too big. She also has in mind a project to make a sculpture out of one of the Venice bollards that stick up all over the lagoon. But not being as quick and easy to execute as the Banksy image of a child refugee holding a rescue flare which unexpectedly appeared overnight on a canal wall, Deeb admits that her project will have to wait another day. The exhibition at the IED called Fluidity of Languages and curated by IED students also displays another Sidiq photo reportage. It is titled The Garden of Eden is likely to disappear and shows the dwindling life in this once-fertile area of Iraq now endangered by war, by climate change and by the drought caused by dams built in Turkey. Sidiq relates that she became a photo reporter – at one stage she was the only Iraqi woman photo reporter working in the country – because she felt that the fly-in-fly-out foreign war reporters were showing only one side of a much bigger story that she could document from her own experience. She says she is thinking about two new projects as a result of her residency in Venice, but is keeping them to herself for now.
The exhibition at the IED also includes a glimpse of Adin’s new projects, the design and illustrations for a book of poetry, the graphics for a novel with the provisional title Shakespeare and Hamid, sponsored by the Good Chance Theatre, and an animation for Art Refuge UK. One wonders how Venice will rub off on all four artists in their future work. Perhaps it was the month’s residency on the lagoon, thanks to the hospitality of Refugees Welcome Italia families, who hosted them for the first week, as well as the support of UNHCR that made them appear so happy, enthusiastic and – dare one say it? – at home. But perhaps there was something more, too: the courage and determination to move on, to look forward, defined both by the hazards of their journey out and the longing of all exiles for the journey home. * The UNHCR has used Mark Rothko as a major example of a refugee who went on to become one of America’s major contemporary artists; the Lampedusa of the title needs no explanation. The exhibition, curated by Luca Berta and Francesca Giubilei, is in Palazzo Querini, Calle Lunga S. Barnaba. Get off the vaporetto at Ca’ Rezzonico, walk through Campo S. Barnaba into Calle Lunga and you will find the charming Palazzo Querini, part of the Fondazione Ugo and Olga Levi, on the left. The exhibition runs until 24 November. The smaller show at the IED is no longer showing.
A photo by Bnar Sardar Sidiq from her series The Garden of Eden is likely to disappear.
8 | July-August 2019 • Wanted in Rome
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Travel
THE MYTH OF SAN MICHELE The dream house of a legendary Swedish doctor and a secret love affair on the island of Capri Margaret Stenhouse
A
little over a century ago, The Story of San Michele by Swedish doctor Axel Munthe was a runaway best seller. Translated into 50 languages, it has sold millions of copies all over the world and continues to be republished regularly up to the present day. The San Michele of the title was the house that Munthe built for himself in the village of Anacapri on the island of Capri. It stands on a rocky outcrop 325 metres above the sea, with sweeping views over the Bay of Naples and the Sorrentine peninsula. It is one of Capri’s main tourist attractions, on a par with the Blue Grotto. The house was a dream that Munthe built to his own design, with, in his own words: “columns of priceless marble, supporting loggias and arcades, beautiful fragments from past ages strewn all over my garden, the chapel turned into a silent library with cloister stalls
round the walls and sweet-sounding bells ringing Ave Maria over each happy day.” Munthe died 70 years ago, at the ripe old age of 91. He did not die in Capri, as he would have wished, but at the Royal Palace of Stockholm, where he was often a guest during the winter. However, he left an indelible imprint on the island. The villa has been left as he created it, with his furniture and his eccentric collection of curios and antiquities, acquired over a lifetime. In his will, he bequeathed it to the Swedish crown and it is now run by the Swedish Institute in Rome as a museum and a privileged retreat for scholarship-winning artists, researchers, students and journalists who can spend some time there dedicated to study and creativity. The present curator, writer and journalist Kristina Kappelin, gave us a guided tour of the house and the delightful garden, pointing out some of Munthe’s most unusual acquisitions,
Alex Munthe's enchanted villa is now a house museum run by the Swedish Institute in Rome.
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A majestic sphinx on the pergola of Munthe's villa, overlooking the Bay of Naples.
such as the Medusa head – which he claimed in his book to have spotted lying on the seabed from the height of the villa terrace – and the granite Egyptian sphinx that sits majestically at the end of the columned pergola along the edge of the cliff. Munthe recounted that he had located it in some remote area of Calabria, guided by a mysterious voice in a dream. The Story of San Michele, in fact, is a fascinating mix of true anecdotes from his highly unusual life story and imaginary encounters with spirits and mythological beings. However, nobody really knows how he came by many of his trophies and exhibits, though it was murmured that he rummaged diligently through the flea markets in Naples. The tour through the house includes the sculpture court, the large kitchen and the living quarters which are, as Munthe wanted, open and full of light. When he began converting the original farmhouse and ruined chapel of St Michael that made up the original nucleus of his house, he discovered a wealth of marble fragments, pieces of ancient statuary and a section of frescoed wall, all of which convinced him that the site had once been part of a palace belonging to the Roman emperor Tiberius. The wisteria-covered colonnade leads onto the point where the mysterious sphinx presides, perched high and facing the sea. The ancient Phoenician stairway, with over 700 steps cut out of the cliffside, starts here. This was the only link between Capri and Anacapri when Munthe first arrived. The road followed later, and nowadays there is a convenient minibus service to convey the endless stream of tourists from Capri port to the villa.
Munthe spent almost all his summers on Capri, where he could escape from the pressures of his work as a high-society doctor in Rome. During the 19th and early 20th century, the aristocracy and wealthy industrialists of Europe regularly came south each year for the benefit of their health. In an era when tuberculosis was rampant, doctors recommended their patients spend some months in the warmer Mediterranean climate, and Rome was a favourite destination. The Story of San Michele is a rambling but highly entertaining account of his life and his colourful career as doctor to the fashionable set of international travellers who flocked to Italy. Munthe set up his surgery in Rome at Piazza di Spagna 26, the same building where the poet John Keats had drawn his last breath some 70 years previously. Medical studies were just starting to focus on the causes of mental illnesses and Munthe was among the first to realise that many of his patients’ complaints were psychosomatic, caused by the idle lifestyle and the frustrations of the wealthy young women he treated. He did not, however, limit his practice to the rich, but he also treated the poor in the city slums free of charge, and he went voluntarily to Naples during the 1884 cholera epidemic to help the sufferers. In the book, Munthe is reticent about his private life, which did not run smoothly. He was married twice, with an acrimonious separation from his second wife Hilda, the mother of his two sons. However, unbeknown to the rest of the world, he was involved in a long-term love affair that was one of his best-kept secrets. Wanted in Rome • July-August 2019 | 11
Travel “This has all come out fairly recently,” Kappelin told us. “For 37 years Munthe had a secret relationship with Victoria, the Crown Princess of Sweden. She suffered from poor health and he was appointed her personal doctor, accompanying her on many of her journeys between Sweden and Italy.” The princess’s marriage to Prince Gustav of Sweden was not a happy one, and after the birth of her last son she lived more or less apart from her husband. In a letter, she confessed to Munthe that there was “nothing between the Crown Pr. & myself except quiet talks.” The princess and her doctor had a lot in common. They shared a love of animals (Munthe had around six dogs in Capri, as well as a number of unusual pets, like Billy the baboon, a mongoose and a little owl). Both loved art, literature, archaeology and music, and both were also keen photographers. Although their friendship did give rise to gossip, the love affair was successfully concealed from the court and public, as recounted by literature professor Bengt Jangfeldt in his book Axel Munthe. The Road to San Michele, first published in 2003. Jangfeldt is the first researcher to have undertaken an in-depth study of Munthe’s private papers and diaries, bringing to light many little known aspects of his life. Munthe himself never mentions Victoria in his book. The only clues lie in the name of his cutter, the “Lady Victoria”, and in a passage where he alludes to “a gracious lady [who], although she has to be the mother of a whole country, my own country, has enough room left in her heart to bring a bunch of flowers to the grave of a dog, for 12 years her faithful friend, every time she comes to Capri.” In public, the couple had agreed to maintain a purely formal Guided tours include a visit to Munthe's bedroom.
front. “Remember you must treat me with the greatest indifference, rather as a bore,” Munthe wrote to her. They also took the precaution of speaking together in English when servants were around so that their conversations would not be understood. Their relationship continued when Victoria became Queen Consort in 1907 and lasted until her death in 1930. Afterwards, Munthe kept up a friendly relationship with Victoria’s husband, the widower who had always turned a blind eye. Munthe’s love of animals led him to clash with the islanders. The mountains of Capri were a favoured resting spot for migrating songbirds and quails, which the local people netted and killed by the thousands to grace the tables of Paris restaurants. Axel was determined to curtail the practice and almost bankrupted himself to purchase the nearby Monte Barbarossa from the landowner, a brutal ex-butcher who kept putting up the price. The matter was settled when the butcher fell ill and implored il dottore to come and save him. Thus Munthe finally got his way and was able to establish his bird sanctuary on the mountainside. Although the hunting of birds is now banned on Capri, the sanctuary still exists and guided tours can be arranged through the Villa. Meanwhile, Munthe became an international celebrity. His visitors included people like Oscar Wilde and his lover Lord Alfred Douglas in 1897, Henry James (1899), the Empress Eugenie, Napoleon III’s widow (1899), Greta Garbo (1938), Compton Mackenzie and Gabriele D’Annunzio (in the 1920s). Munthe did not spend his last years in Capri, as he would have wished. The second world war intervened, making travel to Italy impractical and when the war ended he was too old and frail to undertake the journey. In a letter he wrote to the publisher John Murray, he sadly remarked, “I shall never see Capri again. I did not know it was so difficult to die and die alone.” He slipped into a coma and died on 11 February 1949. His sons scattered his ashes, not in the Mediterranean, but in the North Sea. For information on visiting San Michele tel. (+39) 0818371401 or see website www.villasanmichele.eu.
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Street Art
INTERVIEW WITH ROME STREET ARTIST DIAVÙ David “Diavù” Vecchiato is one of Rome’s best known street artists Andy Devane WiR: How was your passion for art born, in particular street art, and how long have you been painting on the street? Diavù: As a child I always drew what I saw around me, even while watching TV or reading comics – I copied everything. I remember that it was the exhibition I love Paperino [I love Donald Duck] at Palazzo Braschi in 1984 that made me realise that comics and painting could coexist, thanks to the works of artists such as Schifano and Ugo Nespolo alongside those of Andrea Pazienza, Jacovitti and the ducks of Carl Barks. I started working in the street in 1992/1993, pasting posters of my drawn characters. Then I dedicated myself to comics and publishing for a long time, never ceasing to fill sketchbooks and
paint large canvases, and it was only in 2009 that I returned to creating works in the street. Since 2010 I have been making murals more and more often, because painting among people and in residential spaces is like an addiction. Can you describe your style and your greatest source of inspiration? I don’t care if one of my works isn’t immediately recognisable as mine, graphically speaking, and in fact I use different techniques, depending on the type of drawing or painting I have to do. Despite this I believe that my way of drawing is easily traceable back to me. My greatest source of inspiration is the reality that hides behind appearances. In my works I try
Michèle Mercier – Il Giovedì, by David Diavù Vecchiato. Via Ronciglione. Painting on staircase, 2015. Photo Oscar Giampaoli.
14 | July-August 2019 • Wanted in Rome
10 Murals, 10 Movies by David Diavù Vecchiato. Roma Tre University, Via Ostiense 139. Project by MURo Urban Art Museum of Rome, 2018. Photo Oscar Giampaoli.
to represent the truth, which is not what we see but what is obscured by superficiality. To put it another way: I am more interested in capturing the light of a person’s gaze than making a portrait of them by reproducing their features. You are the curator of Street Art MURo Urban Museum of Rome and also GRAArt; can you tell us something about these projects? They are both declarations of love for the Eternal City. Rome is like a 3,000-year-old grandmother who has endless stories to tell us, and painting in her streets is a bit like tattooing her skin. MURo is a project that I started spontaneously ten years ago in the Quadraro district [in southeastern Rome], inviting artist colleagues from all over the world to tell the stories of the neighbourhood through murals. Then it spread first to Torpignattara and then to the whole city, producing dozens of works over the years. GRAArt, on the other hand, started off in a big way in 2016, thanks to a commission from ANAS [the state company in charge of Italy’s highway network], and so far it has produced 17 large murals around the Grande Raccordo Anulare [Rome’s ring road]. The murals relate to the history of the places in which they are painted, and are designed to become symbols of those areas. Ingrid Bergman – Europa 51 by David Diavù Vecchiato, pictured at work on Via Fiamignano. Painting on staircase, 2015. Photo Vincenzo De Francesco.
You are known in Rome for your large-scale works such as the portraits painted on public staircases in areas of Rome such as Trastevere and Trionfale – what is your technique for making them? The Popstairs works are painted on stairways and are dedicated to women. I started to make them because I believe that this city needs more “feminine” monuments. Each one requires at least one week of work and a staff of two or three assistants working with me, all kneeling for more than 12 hours a day. So the technique I would say is all in the physical preparation! Where are your main works located, and is there an area of Rome where they are more concentrated? They are mainly in the suburbs, because working on a large scale it isn’t easy to obtain permits for the façades of buildings in the historic centre. Although I believe that an exemption should be made for artists with clear fame and a long career behind them, because cities are alive thanks to the layering of works of art produced over the centuries. In any case I’ve painted all across Rome, and my website contains a map of my murals. What are your next projects? In October I’ll take part in the group exhibition Dallo sketch al MURo at the Rosso20Sette Arte Contemporanea gallery, which will conclude the various events of the first MURo Festival and will result in a catalogue celebrating the first decade of the MURo project. Then, if I manage to, I’d like to combine three of my loves: street art, publishing and music. In the meantime I’ll paint lots of new murals. To learn more about Diavù and his art work see www.diavu.com. Wanted in Rome • May 2019 | 15
to do ART MUSIC FOOD NATURE CINEMA FAMILY THEATRE
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Go for an early evening Head down to the banks bike ride on the Appia of the Tiber at dusk to Antica outside the city enjoy street food and walls. shopping.
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Explore the city’s Celebrate Independance modern art collection at Day with a concert and Galleria d’Arte Moderna. BBQ at the American University of Rome.
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Get tickets for a concert by Garbage at Villa Ada world music festival.
Try out swing dancing at Festival Village Celimontana with lessons, live music and dj sets.
See Il carro d’oro by Johann Paul Schor at Palazzo Braschi on loan from the Uffizi.
Score some great deals on clothes during Italy’s summer sales.
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Visit the Forum of Walk the Vatican walls Augustus at dusk for a from Castel S. Angelo special hologram and after the sun goes down. light show.
Enjoy interactive exhibit Dream with kids at Chiostro Del Bramante.
Book an umbrella at one of the stabilimenti on Sabaudia’s blue flag beach.
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Take the kids to Giardino di Filly, Rome’s new educational farm.
Teatro dell’opera di Roma presents Tosca. Ticket discount with WiR card.
See the Lucio Fontana show at Galleria Borghese before it closes.
Don’t miss underground DJ phenomenon Peggy Gou at hotspot Sanctuary.
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Take a train trip to the Montagna Spaccata near Gaeta south of Rome.
Catch an outdoor concert by Javier Girott & Aires Tango at Casa del Jazz.
See Ennio Morricone introduce the film Novecento in Piazza S. Cosimato.
Photo by Willian West on Unsplash
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Catch the concert by Farruko at Fiesta, Rome’s festival of Latin American music.
See 30 Seconds to Mars perform as part of the Roma Summer Fest.
Take in one of the openair Concerti di Tempietto at Teatro di Marcello.
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See The Academic Body exhibition at the American Academy in Rome.
Bababoom Reggae Festival kicks off on the beach in the Marche region.
See Diana Krall take to the stage at the Auditorium Parco della Musica.
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Check out the threeday Rome car rally, starting today at Castel S. Angelo.
Take a train from Vatican City to the papal gardens at Castel Gandolfo.
See Mark Knopfler perform under the stars at the Baths of Caracalla.
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Cool off with a lemon and coconut grattachecca at the kiosk in front of Ara Pacis.
Pick up your summer reading at the Anglo American bookshop.
Algerian artist Nacera Belaza offers a workshop at Mattatoio in Testaccio.
to do ART MUSIC FOOD NATURE CINEMA FAMILY THEATRE
Mon Tue Wed Thu 1 Easy Star All-Stars perform at Villa Ada: Roma Incontra il Mondo.
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See the traditional August snow shower at the Basilica di S. Maria Maggiore.
Immerse yourself in the fresh waterfalls at the Giardino delle Cascate in EUR.
Go early to climb St Peter’s dome and enjoy a birds-eye-view of Rome.
Pamper yourself in the city centre at Aquamadre spa.
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Spend a chilled-out evening at Voodoo Bar in the Colle Oppio district.
Cinecittà World hosts family movie nights under the stars.
Soak up the literary past of Caffè Greco, Rome’s oldest coffee bar.
See images of the earthquake-hit Marche region in Terre in Movimento at MAXXI.
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Go early to Belle Arti to snag a spot in the shade around the pool.
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Treat yourself with a Take a guided moonlit day by the pool at the stroll through the castle on the beach in S. Cavalieri Hilton in Monte Mario. Severa.
Marvel at the fairytale architecture of Rome’s Coppedè quarter.
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Bask in the peace of the cloister at the Basilica di S. Giovanni in Laterano.
Admire 19th-century photographs of Rome in a show at Palazzo Braschi.
Head to Parioli for the tasting menu at fine dining restaurant Metamorfosi.
Travel to Cervara di Roma with the highest centro storico in the province of Rome.
Photo by carlos-ibanez on Unsplash
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August Sat Sun 2019 3
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Stock up on gourmet food products at Volpetti in Testaccio.
Score tickets to Verdi’s Aida opera at the Baths of Caracalla.
Head to La Spezia for the Palio del Golfo rowing race between 13 seaside villages.
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Check out Eden Garden Experience in north Rome for aperitivo, dj sets and dinner.
Enjoy a cocktail and a cool breeze at Magick Bar on the banks of the Tiber.
Beat the heat with a funfilled day with the kids at Hydromania water park.
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Bear the bus ride to S. Cheer on the horses in Siena’s central piazza for Felice Circeo for a swim the Palio di Siena race. in the crystal clear water.
Perk up at S. Eustachio with a cold Caffè Shakerato.
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Source grapefruit and fennel at your local market for a classic Roman salad.
Enjoy a Vivaldi concert at the celebrated Stresa Festival in Lake Maggiore.
Glimpse into the ancient past at Palazzo Valentini in the city centre.
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Have a picnic in the sun at Lago di Bolsena close to Rome.
Take a day-trip to the park of monsters at Bomarzo in north Lazio.
Beaches TOP 10
BE ACHES N E A R RO M E For all you beach-lovers here is a selection of resorts within easy reach of Rome. Each one, ordered from north to south, offers either stabilimenti (private beaches with entrance fees and changing facilities and refreshments) or spiaggia libera (free beach with the option to rent a lounge chair and/or umbrella), and all have children’s facilities. We have indicated how to get there by public transport, as all these towns suffer from heavy traffic during the summer.
Sabaudia S. MARINELLA The northern-most beach on our list offers a small strip of white sandy beach with the choice of setting up camp at either the stabilimenti or spiaggia libera. There are two trains per hour leaving from Termini station for S. Marinella station and the journey takes about one hour. Popular with wind-surfers.
S. SEVERA Located about 50 km north of Rome and less than 10 km south of S. Marinella. Take one of the regular Civitavecchia trains from Rome and the beach is a ten-minute walk from the station. There are numerous stabilimenti, restaurants and spiaggia libera and it is also known for the Italia Surf Expo which takes place every July.
FREGENE A former chic hotspot of the 1960s and 1970s, Fregene boasts long stretches of sand with both stabilimenti and spiaggia libera. Along the coast there is also a wide selection of family-oriented restaurants and less expensive tavole calde. Rome’s club scene tends to flock to Fregene and nearby Ostia (see below) in the summer months. Although Fregene isn’t the easiest place to reach by public transport, Cotral buses depart from Rome’s Valle Aurelia metro stop (line A) and the journey takes about one hour.
OSTIA/CANCELLI Ostia and the Cancelli (gates) are along the coast nearest Rome. Ostia is loaded with often pricey and trendy stabilimenti, while the Cancelli offer free beaches equipped with restaurants and bathrooms. Public transport takes less than an hour and you can use the same metro/bus tickets for public transport in Rome. Take the 070 express bus from EUR, or the Roma-Lido train from Porta S. Paolo beside the Piramide metro station (line B). To reach the Cancelli get off at the last stop and take the 07 MARE bus until you reach the gates numbered 1, 2, 3 etc.
ANZIO/NETTUNO These beaches are only ten minutes apart and are easily reached from Rome. One train per hour leaves from Termini station, stopping first at Anzio and then at Nettuno. The journey takes 60-70 minutes and the beaches are about a 10-minute walk from the respective train stations.
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S. Marinella Anzio has the Blue Flag status given to beaches that meet the international quality standards for cleanliness both on the beach and in the water.
SABAUDIA Famous for its beauty and spaciousness, this stretch of beach is another Blue Flag area. Although predominantly spiaggia libera, there are a few stabilimenti to choose from. Cotral buses run from Rome’s Laurentina metro stop (line B) to Piazza Oberdan in Sabaudia. From here take the shuttle bus which runs up and down the local coastline. Sabaudia is also known for its Mussolini-era architecture.
S. FELICE CIRCEO Nearly 100 km south of Rome are the Blue Flag beaches and crystal clear waters of Circeo. Stabilimenti abound but look for the spiaggia libera nearest the port: it definitely merits the mini-trek. Cotral buses leave for Circeo from the Laurentina metro station in Rome. Get off at the last stop and walk for ten minutes until you reach the beach.
TERRACINA Located just 10 km south of Circeo. From Termini station take the hourly regional train for Naples and get off at Monte S. Biagio. From there, take the bus for about 20 minutes until you reach the beach. Terracina has as many spiagge libere as stabilimenti and both are well-kept and clean, making it a popular destination for families.
SPERLONGA The stabilimenti dominate this gorgeous getaway with picturesque views and Blue Flag status, leaving only narrow strips for the spiaggia libera. Take the regional train headed to Naples from Termini station and get off at Fondi-Sperlonga. Once there, take the Piazzoli bus for 20 minutes to Sperlonga, alternatively take a private taxi but be warned they are far more expensive than the €1.50 bus ticket.
GAETA This Blue Flag area has a quaint mediaeval town to explore and clean beaches. From Termini station take one of the frequent trains headed towards Naples, get off at Formia and take the bus for another 25 minutes until you reach Gaeta. For more information about transportation consult the Cotral and Trenitalia websites www.cotralspa.it, www.trenitalia.it.
Pools TOP 10
OUT DO O R P O O LS I N RO M E Come mid-summer in Rome, most of us are in need of the cool of an outdoor pool to relax by. But Rome isn’t awash with them and most are part of privately- owned swimming and sports clubs or upmarket hotels. Expect to pay upwards of €30 a day per person for entry to exquisitely chic surroundings at the top end of the spectrum, and nearer €8-€10 for perfectly adequate but som times crowded and scruffy cheaper pools. We’ve picked ten of Rome’s best, from New York-style rooftop pools with todie- for views over the city and a nice line in cocktails to family-friendly cheap and cheerful clubs. The € symbols represent ranking by price.
Piscina delle rose
Radisson SAS Hotel
1. ALDROVANDI PALACE
7. HYDROMANIA
Small and very select city-centre oasis, La Ranocchia (meaning “little frog”) is shaded by overhanging palms and huge cream parasols. Arrive early as space is limited around this pool. Mon-Sun 10.00-19.30. Mon-Sat €55, Sun €60, weekly pass €350. Via Ulisse Aldrovandi 15 (Parioli), tel. 063223993, www.aldrovandi.com. €€€€
Think miles of water slides, wave machines, pools, South-Pacific-style thatched bars, shops and a mini-club. Weekdays 09.30-18.30, weekends until 19.00 (weekdays: adults €16.50, children €11, half-day €11/€9; weekends: adults €20, half-day €15, children €15/€13). Casal Lumbroso 33 (Aurelio), tel. 0666183183, www.hydromania.it. €€
2. BELLE ARTI Free at weekends and well worth a mention for its fantastic central location tucked behind a church on Via Flaminia. A quiet atmosphere makes it good for those with very young children. 08.00-20.00 (€20). Via Flaminia 158 (Flaminio), tel. 063226529, www.circolotennisbellearti.it. €€
8. PISCINA DELLE ROSE
3. CAVALIERI HILTON
9. RADISSON SAS HOTEL
This Olympic-sized outdoor pool-witha-view is the crème de la crème of Rome’s pools if you like serious swimming. It’s large, luxurious and well worth the trip to Monte Mario. With a separate children’s pool. 09.00-19.00 daily (weekdays €45, weekends €85, sun lounger and towel included). Via Alberto Cadlolo 101 (Monte Mario), tel. 0635091, www.cavalieri-hilton.it. €€€€€
Seriously smart and stunning heated rooftop swimming pool with sections for children and adults and poolside fine dining. 09.00-19.00 (adults €45 Mon-Fri, €55 Sat-Sun, children 50 per cent off ). Via Filippo Turati 171 (Esquilino), tel. 06444841, www.radissonblu.com/eshotel-rome. €€€€
4. CIRCOLO VALENTINI
Professional, outdoor swimming pool arranges lessons for children and adults and has tennis courts and a gym. Mon-Fri 10.00-18.30. Adults €8 (€6 halfday) kids €6 (€4 half-day). Weekends 10.00-19.00. Adults €10 (€7 half-day) kids €8 (€5 half-day). Via del Fontanile Arenato 66 (Aurelio), tel. 066634202, www.vitaclub.it. €
Slightly shabby but friendly, family-run pool, used by locals. The adjoining restaurant will make up a lunchtime salad for around €4. 09.00-19.00 (weekdays €10, half-day €7, weekends €13/€9). Via della Marcigliana 597, corner Via Bufalotta (Talenti/Prati Fiscali), tel. 0687120207, www.circolovalentini.it. €
Large pool perfect for families, swimming and canoeing lessons. Mon-Fri 10.00-22.00, weekends 09.00-19.00 (€16 per day, €14 half-day). Viale America 20 (EUR), tel. 065926717, www.piscinadellerose.it. €€
10. S.S.D. VITA
5. CLUB LANCIANI A large tennis club with an outdoor pool offering lessons, free swimming and a children’s summer school. Mon-Fri 09.00-20.00, Sat 09.30-17.30, Sun 09.00-19.30 (€12/14). Via di Pietralata 135 (Tiburtino), tel. 064181401, www.clublanciani.eu. €€
6. GRAND HOTEL GIANICOLO Part of a luxury hotel, this pool is located in elegant surroundings with palm trees and views of Trastevere from the Gianicolo hill. Lunch and dinner served at pool-side restaurant. 09.00-19.00, daily pass €25. Via delle Mura Gianicolensi 107 (Gianicolo), tel. 0658333405, www.grandhotelgianicolo.it. €€
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Hydromania
ROME'S MAJOR
MUSEUMS VATICAN MUSEUMS Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.
Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums
Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.
STATE MUSEUMS Baths of Diocletian
Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.
Borghese Museum
Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.
Castel S. Angelo Museum
Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.
Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine
Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.
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Crypta Balbi
Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.
Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia
Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's modern art collection. Mon closed.
MAXXI
Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museumof 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.
Palazzo Corsini
Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.
Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale
Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.
Palazzo Altemps
Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.
Palazzo Barberini
Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.
Palazzo Massimo alle Terme
Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.
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Via della Lungara, 233 00165 Rome, Italy +39 066819121 Wanted in Rome • July-August 2019 | 25
26 | July-August 2019 • Wanted in Rome
Villa Farnesina
Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.
CITY MUSEUMS Centrale Montemartini
Museo Napoleonico
Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.
PRIVATE MUSEUMS
Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.
Casa di Goethe
Capitoline Museums
Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.
Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun.
Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.
Chiostro Del Bramante
Doria Pamphilj Gallery
Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.
Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.
MACRO Asilo
Galleria Colonna
Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna
Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space until the end of 2019. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.
MATTATOIO
Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.
Museo Barracco
Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.
Giorgio de Chirico House Museum
Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.
Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking.
Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi
Keats-Shelley House
Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets
Museo storico della Liberazione
Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127. Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.
Museo Canonica
Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).
Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking. Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it. Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from 1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.
Palazzo Merulana
Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it. Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection, including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation. 09.00-20.00. Tues closed.
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ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY
ART GALLERIES
1/9 Unosunove
1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.
A.A.M. Architettura
Fondazione Pastifico Cerere
This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pastificiocerere.com.
Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ffmaam.it.
Fondazione Memmo
Associazione Culturale
Franz Paludetto
Dorothy Circus Gallery
Frutta
Ex Elettrofonica
Gagosian Gallery
Valentina Moncada Gallery holds exhibitions of international artists who are active in the international scene today. Via Margutta 54, tel. 063207956, www.valentinamoncada.com. Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com. This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.
Federica Schiavo Gallery
Hosts large solo and group shows of well-known contemporary artists. Piazza di Montevecchio 16, tel. 0645432028, www.federicaschiavo.com.
Fondazione Giuliani per l’Arte Contemporanea
The Giuliani Foundation for Contemporary Art is a private non-profit foundation that produces three contemporary art exhibitions each year. Via Gustavo Bianchi 1, tel. 0657301091, www.fondazionegiuliani.org.
Fondazione Volume!
The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.
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Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www. fondazionememmo.it. Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com. This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via Giovanni Pascoli 21, tel. 06 68210988, www.fruttagallery.com. The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.
Galleria Frammenti D’Arte
Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.
Galleria Lorcan O’Neill
High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.
Galleria Marie-Laure Fleisch
This contemporary art space is dedicated to exhibiting works on paper. Via di Pallacorda 15, tel. 0668891936, www.galleriamlf.com.
Galleria della Tartaruga
Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.
Galleria Il Segno
Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italian and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.
Galleria Mucciaccia
Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.
Giacomo Guidi Arte contemporanea
Montoro 12
Gallery promoting work by contemporary Italian and international artists. Via di Montoro 12, tel. 0668308500, www.m12gallery.com.
Nomas Foundation
Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.
This contemporary art gallery presents exhibitions from a diverse group of Italian and foreign artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Corso V. Emanuele II 282-284, tel. 0668801038, www.giacomoguidi.it.
Operativa Arte Contemporanea
Galleria Varsi
Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 339 / 7254235, 366 / 3988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.
A small but dynamic gallery near Campo de’ Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di S. Salvatore in Campo 51, tel. 0668309410, www.galleriavarsi.it.
Il Ponte Contemporanea
Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via di Panico 5559, tel. 0668801351, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.
La Nuova Pesa
Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.
MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea
Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.
Magazzino d’Arte Moderna
Contemporary art galley that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.
Monitor
This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, tel. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.
Monserrato Arte ‘900
This gallery in the Campo de’ Fiori area represents a range of contemporary Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 14, tel. 348/2833034.
A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.
Pian de Giullari
Plus Arte Puls
Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 335 / 7010795, www.plusartepuls.com.
RvB ARTS
Rome-based gallery specialising in affordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www.rvbarts.com.
Sala 1
This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.
S.T. Foto libreria galleria
Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.
Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri
The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.
Wanted in Rome • July-August 2019 | 29
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www.marymountrome.com
where to go in Rome WHAT’S ON
MILLO at Dorothy Circus Gallery. Time is Running Backwards. See page 33.
Wanted in Rome • July-August 2019 | 31
32 | July-August 2019 • Wanted in Rome
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EXHIBITIONS
EXHIBITIONS years, and includes sewn books, sculptures, public works and her celebrated “looms”. MAXXI, Via Guido Reni 4A, www.maxxi.art.
HIKARI SHIMODA & MILLO 14 June-13 July
The Dorothy Circus Gallery presents a double exhibition of work by Japanese painter Hikari Shimoda and Italian street artist MILLO at its galleries in Rome and London. Each artist will present a brand new collection of 10 to 12 works on canvas of various formats, described as “displaying in their unique contemporary visual style the stories, expectations and fragility of timeless generations and that of today’s teenagers.” See MILLO cover this issue. Dorothy Circus Gallery, Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.it.
JEFF BARK: PARADISE GARAGE 7 June-28 July
Beauty Truth, Truth Beauty by Edith Schloss.
EDITH SCHLOSS BEAUTY IS TRUTH, TRUTH BEAUTY 11-25 July
The exhibition marks the 100th anniversary of the birth of the American artist and writer Edith Schloss. Schloss was born in Germany and moved to the United States during world war two where she became an active participant and observer of the bubbling postwar art world centred on New York. She moved to Rome in the 1960s and continued her painting and art criticism, identifying some of the most important artists and trends of the time. In the mid 1980s she started writing features and reviews for Wanted in Rome and continued until her death in 2011, on the eve of the opening of her last exhibition, The Painted
Song, with composer Alvin Curran. The Non-Catholic Cemetery, Via Caio Cestio 6.
MARIA LAI: HOLDING THE SUN BY THE HAND 19 June-12 Jan
On the centerary of the artist’s birth, MAXXI devotes a major exhibition to Maria Lai (19192013), considered one of the more individual figures in Italian contemporary art. The exhibition is described by curators Bartolomeo Pietromarchi and Luigia Lonardelli as a “fitting tribute to an artist who created, ahead of the latest research into relational art, a language combining sensibility, local traditions and global codes.” The show comprises more than 100 works spanning from the early 1960s through to her final
Palazzo delle Esposizioni presents Jeff Bark’s photographs of garage sets which become “surreal landscapes, inhabited at times by nostalgic vignettes, and at others by imposing and monumental portraits.” Curated by Alessio de’Navasques, the exhibition allows “no room for boundaries between art and viewer” and features images of interiors, still lifes, natural landscapes and curiosity cabinets in scenes inspired by a recent visit to Rome, all created specially in Bark’s garage in Upstate New York. Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Via Nazionale 194, www.palazzoesposizioni.it.
WECHSELSPIEL 30 May-13 Oct
The city’s modern art gallery is holding a double site-specific installation by Paolo Bielli and Susanne Kessler in the building’s cloister. The works – silhouettes by Bielli and embroidery by Kessler – are in dialogue with nearby sculptures and tie in with the gallery’s current exhibition
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34 | July-August 2019 • Wanted in Rome
examining the representation of women in 20th-century art. Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna, Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.galleriaartemodernaroma.it.
RICHARD LONG: FATE AND LUCK 24 May-24 July
Galleria Lorcan O’Neill presents new work by acclaimed British artist Richard Long, one of the most prominent of a generation of artists that revolutionised sculptural practice in the 1970s and one of the foremost British land artists. The gallery says: “By the simple act of walking in the landscape, he combined aspects of minimalism, conceptualism and Arte Povera as a way to articulate ideas about time and space, and man’s relationship to nature.” Long grew up in Bristol near the River Avon and uses the mud from its tidal banks to create art, along with stones, wood and clay. The exhibition at Galleria Lorcan O’Neill includes panels made using the terra (mud) of central Italy, along with sculpture made of marbles used since antiquity. Galleria Lorcan O’Neill, Vicolo Dei Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www. lorcanoneill.com.
TEX: 70 ANNI DI UN MITO 24 May-14 July
The Mattatoio in Testaccio celebrates the 70th anniversary of the Italian
Jeff Bark at Palazzo delle Esposizioni.
comic series Tex with an exhibition of drawings, photographs and archive material. Created by writer Gian Luigi Bonelli and illustrator Aurelio Galleppini, the series follows the fictional Western-style ranger Tex Willer and was first published in 1948. The comic is among the most popular in Italy and also has a fan base in Brazil, Finland, Norway, Greece, Turkey, Croatia, France, Serbia, Israel and Spain. Mattatoio, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 0639967500, www.mattatoioroma.it.
LUCIO FONTANA: TERRA E ORO 22 May-28 July
Galleria Borghese presents an exhibition of works by Lucio Fontana in its first show dedicated to a 20th-century Italian artist, and follows other shows dedicated to Bacon, Giacometti and Picasso. Under the title Terra e oro (Earth and gold), the exhibition comprises 50 works and is divided into two sections: spatial concepts and ceramic crucifixes. The gold-painted canvases and ceramics on display were produced mainly in the 1950s and 1960s. Fontana (18991968), a pioneer of abstract art in Italy in the 1930s is best known for his canvases with slashes and sometimes holes through them. He is considered the founder Spatialism,
a movement whose grandiose aim was to synthesise colour, sound, space, movement and time into a more sensory form of art. Born in Argentina, the radical painter and sculptor is credited with paving the way for a younger generation of abstract artists such as Yves Klein and Dan Flavin. Piazzale Scipione Borghese 5, tel. 0667233751, www. galleriaborghese.beniculturali.it.
TERRE IN MOVIMENTO 11 May-1 Sept
Three photographers - Olivo Barbieri, Paola De Pietri and Petra Noordkamp - document the changing landscape of Italy’s Marche region. The photographers were commissioned by Le Marche’s superintendency for archaeology and fine arts to survey the works of art, ruins, the new and fragile settlements and the people inhabiting them, in the area devastated by the 2016 earthquake. MAXXI, Via Guido Reni 4A, www.maxxi.art.
L’ARTE DI SALVARE L’ARTE: FRAMMENTI DI STORIA D’ITALIA 5 May-14 July
Under the title The art of saving art: Fragments of Italian history, an exhibition at the Quirinale Palace
Wechselspiel at Galleria Comunale d'Arte Moderna. Work by Paolo Bielli.
Wanted in Rome • July-August 2019 | 35
Piazzale Scipione Borghese, tel. 0632810, www.galleriaborghese. beniculturali.it.
ELISABETTA CATALANO 3 April-22 Dec
Palazzo del Quirinale, Piazza del Quirinale, www.palazzo.quirinale.it.
The MAXXI pays homage to Elisabetta Catalano (1944-2015), a Roman fine-art photographer who specialised in portraits. The exhibition features slides, photos and vintage prints, investigating in particular the relationship between Catalano’s photography and performance art, presenting portraits of artists such as Joseph Beuys, Fabio Mauri, Vettor Pisani and Cesare Tacchi. Museo nazionale delle arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4A, www.maxxi.art.
CLAUDIO IMPERATORE
PAOLA PIVI. WORLD RECORD
The Ara Pacis museum holds a major exhibition dedicated to Claudius, one of the most controversial Roman emperors, who ruled from AD 41 to 54. Featuring historical and archaeological artefacts, the exhibition highlights the life and reign of Claudius, from his birth in Lyon in 10 BC until his death in Rome in 54 AD. The exhibition places a particular focus on the emperor’s personality, his political and administrative work, his ties to Augustus and his brother Germanicus, as well as his tragic relationship with his wives Messalina and Agrippina. Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta, tel. 060608, www.arapacis.it.
MAXXI showcases the work of the award-winning Italian multimedia artist Paola Pivi whose oeuvre includes performance, sculpture and large-scale installations. She is also known for her photographic representations of animals in performative happenings. Museo nazionale delle arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4A, www.maxxi.art.
Richard Long exhibition Fate and Luck. Courtesy: Richard Long, Installation view, May 2019 - Galleria Lorcan O’Neill.
celebrates the 50th anniversary of the founding of the Carabinieri’s specialised unit for the protection of cultural heritage. The exhibition includes some of the most significant cultural assets recovered by the art police in half a century of investigative work, as well as pieces returned to Italy thanks to diplomatic efforts in collaboration with the culture ministry. Visitors can admire objects that have been stolen from churches, museums, archaeological areas, libraries and archives, and learn about the story behind their recovery. The exhibition also includes treasures placed in safety following the 2016 earthquakes in central Italy.
6 April-27 Oct
BIRD CAGE, A TEMPORARY SHELTER 9 April-7 July
Lucio Fontana at Galleria Borghese. Arlecchino (1948). Photo Niccolò Ara. ©Fondazione Lucio Fontana by SIAE 2019.
As part of its Contemporary Commissions programme, Galleria Borghese presents a monumental site-specific installation by Zhang Enli. The Chinese artist has created four symbolic structures, displayed in various spaces around the museum, reflecting on the links between architecture and art, in particular on the special relationship between Galleria Borghese and its adjacent aviary and secret garden.
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3 April-8 Sept
ROMA NELLA CAMERA OSCURA 27 March-22 Sept
Palazzo Braschi hosts an exhibition comprising photographs of Rome spanning from the birth of the medium in the mid-19th century to the present day. The earliest images on display illustrate the topographical, historical and social aspects that characterised the final years of papal Rome as well as the emergence of the profession of the photgrapher and the beginning of the photograph’s role as a souvenir for tourists and pilgrims. Museo di Roma, Piazza S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, www.museodiroma.it.
MORTALI IMMORTALI: TESORI DEL SICHUAN NELL’ANTICA CINA 26 March-18 Oct
The Markets of Trajan presents an exhibition showcasing treasures belonging to the Shu people, an ancient civilisation in what is now
the Sichuan province in southwest China. On display are finds in bronze, gold, jade and terracotta, dating from the Bronze Age to the Han period (second century AD), on loan from important Chinese museums. Mercati di Traiano, Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, www.mercatiditraiano.it.
LEONARDO DA VINCI: LA SCIENZA PRIMA DELLA SCIENZA 13 March-28 July
The Scuderie del Quirinale holds a major exhibition devoted to Renaissance genius Leonardo da Vinci on the 500th anniversary of his death. Entitled La scienza prima della scienza, the exhibition includes works that offer insights into da Vinci’s technical and scientific advances within the cultural context of his era. The exhibition showcases his designs for flying machines, his use of perspective, his studies for an ideal city, and his masterful mix of classical tradition and scientific innovation. Scuderie del Quirinale, Via XXIV Maggio 16, tel. 0292897722, www. scuderiequirinale.it.
VINCENZO SCOLAMIERO 8 March-9 Sept
The Museo Carlo Bilotti in Rome presents Della declinante ombra, an exhibition of paintings and works on paper by Vincenzo Scolamiero. Scolamiero’s work is described as a poetic reflection on nature through “small, anti-heroic remains and finds in a microcosm made of minute things, twigs, dry leaves, tufts of grass, pebbles, rushes, nests and twisted branches.” Museo Carlo Bilotti, Viale Fiorello La Guardia 6, tel. 060608, www. museocarlobilotti.it.
SOLO IL DOVERE, OLTRE IL DOVERE 28 Jan-14 July
This fascinating but hard-hitting exhibition highlights the attitude and reaction of Italian diplomats in the face of the persecution of Italian and European Jews between the years 1938 and 1943. The exhibition
Terre in movimento at MAXXI. Olivo Barbieri, Marche (earthquake), ©Olivo Barbieri.
is hosted at the Fondazione Museo della Shoah, in the city’s Jewish Ghetto district, in collaboration with Italy’s ministry of foreign affairs. Through photographs, letters, maps and newspaper articles the exhibition reconstructs an era, beginning with changes that occurred within the ministry of foreign affairs and in its foreign network following the promulgation of the racial laws in 1938. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 29, tel. 0668139598, www. museodellashoah.it.
DONNE: CORPO E IMMAGINE TRA SIMBOLO E RIVOLUZIONE
themed art works, guiding viewers on a “physical, surreal, mental and dreamlike journey”, and completing the trilogy of shows begun with Love in 2016 and Enjoy last year. The international artists include major names such as Anselm Kiefer, Anish Kapoor, Bill Viola and Luigi Ontani. Chiostro del Bramante, Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www. chiostrodelbramante.it. See other exhibitions on our website www.wantedinrome.com.
24 Jan-13 Oct
Rome’s municipal modern art gallery highlights the evolution of the female image in art from the late 19th century to the present day. The 100 works on display – including paintings, sculpture, photographs and video – reveal how women have been portrayed variously as objects of admiration and mystery or as angels and temptresses, until artists caught up with a more modern age in the 1960s. Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna, Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www. galleriaartemodernaroma.it.
DREAM: L’ARTE INCONTRA I SOGNI 29 Sept-25 Aug
The Chiostro del Bramante hosts a site-specific exhibition of dream-
The Art of Saving Art: Fragments of Italian history at Palazzo del Quirinale. Portrait of a Gardener by Vincent Van Gogh.
Wanted in Rome • July-August 2019 | 37
The marble head unearthed in Rome on 24 May.
ART NEWS MARBLE HEAD UNEARTHED IN ROMAN FORUM
Archaeologists say that the white marble head unearthed during excavations at the Roman Forum on 24 May is believed to represent a male divinity, most likely Dionysus, otherwise known as Bacchus. Initially it was thought that the head – with its feminine face and thick, wavy hairstyle – belonged to a female statue. However thanks to a band around its head decorated with a "typically Dionysian flower, the corymb, and ivy", it is now believed to be Dionysus, explained the director of Rome's archaeological museum network, Claudio Parisi Presicce. The slightly larger-than-life head has been dated to the imperial age, which corresponds from the first century BC to the fifth century AD, and is described as being in an "excellent state of preservation." Its “hollow eyes, which were probably filled with glass or precious stones, date it to the first centuries of the empire", Parisi Presicce told Italian news agency ANSA. The head was found embedded in a late-Mediaeval wall under Via Alessandrina, the small pedestrian street between Via dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan's Markets. Experts are convinced the head was reused as building material, as often happened in the Middle Ages. The Republic of Azerbaijan donated €1 million towards the excavation, following an agreement reached in 2014 during the administration of former mayor Ignazio Marino.
LEONARDO DA VINCI STAMPS
Italy's postal service Poste Italiane has launched a set of four stamps commemorating the 500th anniversary of the death of Renaissance genius Leonardo da Vinci (1452-
38 | July-August 2019 • Wanted in Rome
1519). The limited edition set comprises reproduction of four images created by the master: detail of Studies of proportions of the face and eye, (Musei Reali – Biblioteca Reale in Turin); Adoration of the Magi (Uffizi); Portrait of Music, (Pinacoteca Ambrosiana); Girl's head known as La scapiliata (National Gallery of Parma). The issue of the stamps, valued at €1.10 each, follows the launch of a set of 12 stamps honouring Leonardo da Vinci by Britain's Royal Mail. Exhibitions of works by da Vinci are currently on display in Rome and the Vatican as part of Italy's #leonardo500 celebrations.
CIRCO MAXIMO EXPERIENCE
The Circo Maximo Experience, a 3-D tour of the Circus Maximus, allows visitors to experience the roars of the crowd at the chariot races that once packed the 600-m long venue, mingle among the Roman market sellers, or marvel at the Arch of Titus in its original 20-m height. Overlapping images of the past to present-day reality, the 40-minute walking itinerary spans from the Archaic Period (from the first century BC to the first century AD to the fascist era when the Circus Maximus was used for sporting tournaments. The 3-D tour is available in six languages (Italian, English, French, German, Spanish and Russian), with visitors equipped with immersive glasses and earphones. Tickets cost €12 and can be bought on site, online or at tourist information points. Entry is at the Viale Aventino end of Circus Maximus. For details see website, www.circomaximoexperience.it. Andy Devane
L’ISOLA DEGLI AMANTI DEL CINEMA. OPEN-AIR CINEMA & LEISURE ON
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Rufus Wainwright at the Roma Summer Fest.
programme, on 20 and 21 July. The British guitarist and singersongwriter is best known as the frontman and driving force behind the rock band Dire Straits, which he co-founded in 1977. When the group disbanded in 1995, Knopfler embarked on a solo career. Knopfler and Dire Straits have sold in excess of 120 million albums to date. For tickets see opera house website, www.operaroma.it.
RUFUS WAINWRIGHT 28 July
ROCK, POP, JAZz GARBAGE 8 July
American alternative rock band Garbage is set to perform at this year’s world music festival, Roma Incontra il Mondo, at Villa Ada in Rome on 8 July. Formed in 1994, Garbage is fronted by Scottish singer Shirley Manson and to date has sold more than 17 million albums worldwide. The group achieved considerable international success in
the mid-1990s with hit singles such as Stupid Girl and Only Happy When It Rains. For tickets see TicketOne website, www.ticketone.it. Villa Ada Festival, Via Salaria 267.
MARK KNOPFLER 20-21 July
Mark Knopfler will perform two outdoor concerts at the Baths of Caracalla as part of the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma summer
Rufus Wainwright performs as part of the Roma Summer Fest in the Cavea arena of the Auditorium Parco della Musica on 28 July. The American-Canadian singersongwriter and composer has recorded seven studio albums of original music, playing piano and guitar, often switching between the two instruments when performing live. From a prominent musical family, Wainwright shot to fame in 1998 with his self-titled debut album which Rolling Stone magazine rated as one of the best albums that year. See Festivals page 42. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via Pietro de Coubertin 30, www. auditorium.com.
DANCE BOLZANO BOLZANO DANCE 12-26 July
My Body of Coming Forth by Day by Olivier Dubois.
40 | July-August 2019 • Wanted in Rome
The Bolzano festival lives up to its reputation as one of Europe’s top contemporary dance festivals, with a programme of big names as well as new and often provocative works. If you didn’t see Angelin Preljocal’s Winterreise at La Scala in Milan this season you have another chance to see it on 12 July at the
Romeo and Juliet, choreography by Giuliano Peparini, one-time assistant to Roland Petit and artistic director behind the Italian popular television programme Amici di Maria De Filippi on Canale 5. The work’s full title is Romeo e Giulietta – Ama e cambia il Mondo and it was first performed in Verona and then in Rome in 2013 and was part of last year’s Caracalla festival. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www. operaroma.it. Romeo e Giulietta by Giuliano Peparini at the Baths of Caracalla.
Teatro Comunale. Olivier Dubois returns to the festival with Tropisme on 15 July and My Body of Coming Forth by Day on 16 July. Silvia Gribaudi presents R.OSA on 17 July, a thought-provoking choreography challenging the standard perceptions of beauty in the female body. Virgilio Sieni’s Metamophosis to Arvo Pärt’s music will have its world premiere on 22 July. The Stuttgart Dance theatre stages two works on 24 July and the finale is a tribute to Merce Cunningham on the centenary of his birth with BIPED and Beach Birds. The two weeks are packed with events so it is worth looking at the website. www.bolzanodanza.it.
MILAN TEATRO ALLA SCALA LA BELLA ADDORMENTATA NEL BOSCO 26 June-9 July
The Nureyev choreography of Tchaikovsky’s classical Russian ballet, with stars Polina Semionova
and Svetlana Zakharova (5 and 9 July) alternating in the lead role. Nureyev’s version, based on Petipa’s original choreography, was first performed at La Scala in 1966 but has not been staged at the Milan theatre for 12 years. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.
SPOLETO DUTCH NATIONAL BALLET 5-7 July
A tribute to choreographer Hans Van Manen with Adagio Hammerklavier, Kleines Requiem and his Five Tangos, one of his most widely performed works. Teatro Romano, www.festivaldispoleto.com.
ROME
RAVENNA
TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA BATHS OF CARACALLA
HAMBURG BALLET 5-6 July
ROBERTO BOLLE AND FRIENDS 9-11 July
No summer season at the Baths of Caracalla would be complete without Roberto Bolle and his guests. His programme is always a last-minute surprise. www.operaroma.it.
John Neumeier is the choreographer of this triptych of Beethoven Fragments, At Midnight and Birthday Dances which is being performed in Italy for the first time, and exclusively for the festival. www. ravennafestival.org.
NIGHT OF THE STARS ROMEO E GIULIETTA BY PROKOFIEV 16 July 30 July-12 Aug
The Teatro dell’Opera di Roma summer season at the Baths of Caracalla presents Prokofiev’s
This international gala includes stars from numerous ballet companies dancing a mainly classical repertoire. www.ravennafestival.org.
MOVIMENTO LIBERO
The Oriente and Occidente festival along with Centro Internazionale della Danza is in Matera while the city is the European Capital of Culture this year. Together with the Fondazione for Matera and the British Council it presents Movimento Libero, a festival to explore the accessibility of those with different abilities to art and culture with performances, roundtable discussions and workshops. Accessibility for the disabled means not only overcoming physical barriers that make it difficult to gain access to certain locations, but also providing opportunities to professions in the arts. The project Europe Beyond Access, which is promoted by the Onassis Centre, Kampnagel and Holland Dance festival, is working to break down barriers between the arts and disability across Europe, particularly in theatre and dance. www.disabilityartsinternational.org/creative-europe-announcement. Wanted in Rome • July-August 2019 | 41
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ARENA FESTIVAL
This contemporary dance festival returns to the theatres, squares and streets of Rovigo and Trento with over 30 productions, 22 dance companies, seven workshops and over 200 dancers. The programme was not available at the time of going to press but you will be able to find it on the festival website, www.orienteoccidente.it.
A new choreography by Johan Kobborg and Alina Cojocaru of Romeo e Giuliette is still scheduled for the Arena on 26 Aug. But Ukrainian star, Sergei Polunin, who should be dancing the part of Romeo is much contested after his homophobic posts on Instagram last year (he denies his comments were intentionally homophobic). He has already had an invitation from the Paris opera and ballet withdrawn and the London ticket agency London Theatre Direct has halted sales of Poulin’s programme
29 Aug-8 Sept
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at the London Palladium where he is appearing in a work by Yuka Oishi called Rasputin. Polunin gave up his position as principal dancer at the Royal Ballet seven years ago when he was only 22 and has been going it alone ever since. In a recent interview with the BBC Polunin indicated that he doesn’t find classical ballet challenging enough for him. He revealed that he is now moving into film and YouTube videos, which he believes will be important for the future for dance. His YouTube performance to Hozier’s song “Take Me to Church” directed by David LaChapelle has had over 27 million views. See also Ravello in Festivals around Italy on page 44.
FESTIVALS
Il Cinema in Piazza in Trastevere.
IL CINEMA IN PIAZZA 1 June-1 Aug
This open-air film festival returns with more than 100 nights of free film screenings and public encounters with guests from the world of cinema. Once again the festival programme divides its time between its Trastevere base at Piazza di S. Cosimato, the Porto Turistico
di Roma marina in the Ostia coastal district and the Casale della Cervelletta in the city’s eastern suburbs. The S. Cosimato programme includes a tribute to Bernardo Bertolucci and retrospectives dedicated to Alfonso Cuarón and Paolo Sorrentino. Casale della Cervellata honours Kim Ki-Duk with retrospectives devoted to Wes Anderson and Star Wars, while Ostia
honours Sofia Loren, Carlo Verdone and Steven Spielberg. International guests include Jeremy Irons, Debra Winger and Paul Schrader. All movies are screened in their original language with Italian subtitles, apart from the Walt Disney films which are shown in their Italian versions with subtitles in English. For details see website, www.ilcinemainpiazza.it.
Wanted in Rome • July-August 2019 | 43
VILLAGE CELIMONTANA 1 June-10 Sept
The fourth edition of the outdoor summer jazz festival returns to the grounds of Villa Celimontana park this summer. The diverse programme of Village Celimontana features concerts with music ranging from jazz, big band, swing and rock, as well as performances of tango. This year’s festival is dedicated to the American jazz singer and pianist Nat King Cole on the centenary of his birth. For programme see “Village Celimontana” Facebook page. Villa Celimontana, Piazza della Navicella.
FIESTA
5 June-2 Aug
The festival that brings Latin American music, dance, food and culture to Rome celebrates its 25th edition in the city’s EUR district this summer. Each year Latin American dancers and singers take to the stage, providing live music from Latin America’s diverse ethnic cultures. Highlights include Orishas (20 June), Farruko (5 July), Bryant Myers (18 July) and Karol G (25 July). For programme see website. Parco Rosati, Via delle Tre Fontane 24, tel. 3272915369, www.fiesta.it.
ISOLA DEL CINEMA 13 June-2 Sept
Celebrating 25 years, this multi-faceted cinema event lights up the Isola Tiberina on the river Tiber each evening over the summer. The 2019 edition of the festival includes 80 nights of screenings, encounters, masterclasses and discussions with important figures from the world of film, held under three sections – Innovation, Environment and Tourism. The festival’s programme comprises films by emerging directors, independent cinema, documentaries and major international productions, including cult classics and films screened in their original language versions. There are also parallel cultural events dedicated to music, literature, photography and poetry with cinematic connections. The festival’s world cinema section, Isola Mondo, features independent international movies, screened
in collaboration with embassies and foreign cultural institutions. Novelties this year include virtual reality cinema and a special event in honour of the late film director Sergio Leone on the 90th anniversary of his birth. For details see festival website, www.isoladelcinema.com.
VILLA ADA: ROMA INCONTRA IL MONDO 18 June-5 Aug
The 26th edition of Rome’s annual world music festival, Roma Incontra il Mondo, returns to the shores of the little lake in the Villa Ada park this summer. The festival area opens each night at 20.00 so that the public can enjoy food and drink from the ethnic food stalls before the music kicks off at 22.00. The lineup includes Garbage (8 July), God is an Astronaut (12 July), New York Ska Jazz Ensemble (19 July), Grupo Compay Segundo De Buena Vista Social Club (26 July) and Easy Star All-Stars (1 Aug). Villa Ada, Via di Ponte Salario 28, www.villaada.org.
ROCK IN ROMA 23 June-7 Sept
The 11th edition of Rock in Roma boasts more than 30 concerts on the 2019 programme, with four separate venues: the Ippodromo delle Capannelle in the Ciampino area, the ancient Teatro Romano at Ostia Antica, the Cavea arena at the Auditorium Parco della Musica, and the Circus Maximus. Highlights in July include Skunk Anansie (8 July) and Ben Harper and the Innocent Criminals (13 July). Rock in Roma has a break for August before ending with Thegiornalisti at
44 | July-August 2019 • Wanted in Rome
Circus Maximus (7 Sept). For details see Rock in Roma website, www. rockinroma.com.
ROMA SUMMER FEST 23 June-2 Aug
Roma Summer Fest, the summer music programme of live rock, pop, jazz, world and classical concerts at the Auditorium Parco della Musica. Highlights this year include Tears for Fears (9 July), Diana Krall (14 July), Thom Yorke Tomorrow’s Modern Boxes (21 July), Rufus Wainwright (28 July) and Carmina Burana (30 July). Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via Pietro de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.
SUMMERTIME JAZZ 24 June-31 July
The summer jazz festival takes place once again at the Casa del Jazz. Under the title Summertime, the programme features concerts by musicians from the Italian and international world of jazz including the Bill Frisell Trio (10 July), Charles Lloyd (19 July), and Javier Girott & Aires Tango (30 July). Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 0680241281, www.casajazz.it.
CONCERTI DEL TEMPIETTO 1 July-31 Oct
The summer-time series of classical music concerts starts in the church in Piazza di Campitelli, then moves outside to the Parco Archeologico del Teatro Marcello on 15 July and then back undercover in the Sala Baldini al Teatro Marcello from 29 Sept-31 Oct. This long-lasting tradition of the Rome summer offers audiences a concert every night. www.tempietto.it.
God is an Astronaut at Villa Ada.
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Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it
Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano www.teatrovascello.it 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it
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Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it
op
ock
Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com Lanificio 159,ViaVia di Pietralata 159, Companies certified Live Alcazar, Cardinale Merry del Valtel. 14, Concert venues ranging from major pop and Alexanderplatz, 9, tel. 0683775604 with ISO 9001:2015 rock groups to Via jazzOstia and acoustic gigs. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com Quality Management System www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Live Alcazar, Merry del 35, Val 14, Monk Club, Via ViaCardinale Giuseppe Mirri tel. Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com 0664850987, www.monkroma.it www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org Monk Club, ViaPiazzale Giuseppe Mirri 35,1, tel. PalaLottomatica, dello Sport tel. Angelo Mai Via Atlantico delle Terme di Atlantico, VialeAltrove, dell’Oceano 271d, 0664850987, www.monkroma.it 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it PalaLottomatica, Piazzale Sport 1, tel. Rock in Roma, Via Appiadello Nuova 1245, tel. Atlantico, Viale Atlantico Auditorium Parcodell’Oceano della Musica, Viale 271d, P. de 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. Auditorium della Viale de Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. Casa del Jazz, Parco Viale di PortaMusica, Ardeatina 55,P.tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Coubertin,www.casajazz.it tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com 06704731, Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com 06704731, www.casajazz.it Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.
t
Private Hospital
Private Hospital
heatre heatre
06 33094.1 clinicapaideia.eu
Via A. Bertoloni, 34 00197 Rome
06 80220.1 clinicamaterdei.eu +39
Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net www.teatrobelli.it Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobelli.it www.teatrobrancaccio.it Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatrobrancaccio.it www.teatroghione.it Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. www.teatroghione.it 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net
Paideia SpA - Dir. San.: Dr. A. Lamanna - Aut. Reg. Lazio n. 1072 del 10-12-02
Mater Dei SpA - Dir. San.: Dr. G. Cervelli - Aut. Reg. Lazio n. D0111 del 17-03-03
H24 Mag 19.pdf 3 13/05/2019 15:27:20
Via V. Tiberio, 46 00191 Rome +39
Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, te 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it www.teatrosangenesio.it Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsi www.teatrosangenesio.it stina.it Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.ilsistina.it www.teatrovascello.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Vittoria,www.teatrovascello.it Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, te tel. 065898031, 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it
Bilingual and highly qualified personnel
Direct payment is accepted from major italian and foreign insurance companies
4951 | Jan 2019 • Wanted in Rome | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome
MACERATA - MARCHE MACERATA FESTIVAL SFERISTERIO 19 July-11 August
The Umbria Jazz poster, Il Generale della Music, is by an outsider from Perugia who signs himself MaMo.
If you are travelling in Italy this summer you will find a festival in almost every city and town, even in the small villages. Look out for posters as you move around as some of the events are only advertised locally. Here is a list of the most famous festivals, all with excellent and varied programmes.
FLORENCE - TUSCANY FESTIVAL DEL MAGGIO MUSICALE 5 May-26 July
The festival, which coincides with the 500th anniversary of the death of Leonardo da Vinci, is producing several operas this year. Puccini’s Madama Butterfly will be performed on 5, 9, 11 and 13 July. L’Elisir d’Amore by Donizetti, who wrote the comic opera in six weeks, is on 10, 12, 17, 19, 23, 25 July. Verdi’s La Traviata, always a favourite, is on 18, 20, 22, 24 and 26 July. The theme of the festival this year is Potere e Virtù, the virtues of power, rather than its vices. All the dates, times and locations are on the Maggio Musicale Fiorentino website, www. maggiofiorentino.com.
Rossodesiderio is the theme of this year’s festival with the three chosen operas as Carmen (18, 28 July, 3, 10 Aug) which is a new production directed by Jacopo Sipirei, Macbeth (20, 26 July and 4 Aug) directed by Emma Dante in a co-production with the Turin and Palermo opera houses and Rigoletto (21, 27 July, 2, 9 Aug) a repeat of a 2015 production directed by Federico Grazzini. There are also several side events which make this more than just an opera festival. One is a project with 100 cellists who invade the city under the guidance of Giovanni Sollima (29-31 July) with a guest appearance of singer Mahmood who won the Sanremo song contest this year (31 July), www.sferisterio.it.
sessions all over the city, some in the auditorium, some in Piazza IV Novembre and the Galleria Nazionale di Umbria, others in theatres, clubs and along the streets. Diana Krall opens the festival at the Arena S. Giuliana on 13 July followed by Paolo Conte on 14 July and Thom Yorke on 20 July. It’s a mixed bag but jazz lovers will enjoy Perugia whatever the lineup, partly because of the festival’s long tradition but also because of the fun away from the big venues. The poster this year “Il Generale della Musica” by Perugia’s Massimiliano Donnari, businessman turned artist a few years ago, has caused mixed feelings. To be crowned with a poster puts MaMo, as he signs himself, among the big names of Italian art, such as Alberto Burri and Piero Dorazio, who designed posters for Umbria Jazz in previous years. www.umbriajazz.it.
RAVELLO - AMALFI COAST
MARTINA FRANCA - PUGLIA
RAVELLO FESTIVAL
FESTIVAL VALLE D’ITRIA
Villa Rufolo on the Amalfi coast is the spectacular setting for a series of symphony concerts (on the Belvedere) and chamber music concerts (in the Wagner garden). The symphony concerts are performed by Italy’s best orchestras, led by top conductors playing an unusual repertoire of music seldom heard during the regular music seasons. These include the Accademia Barocco S. Cecilia playing music by Vivaldi (7 July); Orchestra Giovanile Cherubini, music by Cimarosa and Mozart; S. Carlo di Napoli, conducted by Juraj Valčuha, music by Rota, Williams and Gershwin (18 July); Carlo Felice di Genoa, conducted by Wayne Marshall, playing music by Ghedini and Ravel (21 July); Massimo di Palermo conducted by Gabriele Ferro with music by Zemlinsky, Smareglia and Strauss (28 July); Comunale di Bologna conducted by Pietari Inkinin with music by Respighi, RimskyKorsakov and Stravinsky (4 Aug); Filarmonica Salernitana conducted by Ryan McAdams with music by Liszt, Chausson, Sgambati, Sarasate (20 Aug); Orchestra Filarmonica della Scala conducted by Lorenzo Viotti
16 July-4 Aug
This festival in the heart of Puglia specialises in unusual or rarely performed operas. This year the surprises are Il Matromonio segreto by Cimarosa conducted by Michele Spotti (16, 20, 31 July) and Ecuba by the little-known Nicola Antonio Manfroce conducted by Fabio Luisi (30 July, 4 Aug). Both are directed by Luigi Pizzi. Orfeo by Nicola Porpora will be performed in semi-scenic form (2 Aug). The works in the Opere in Masseria section this year, which takes place in five different agricultural locations (21, 23, 25, 27 July, 1 Aug), are L’ammalato immaginario by Leonardo Vinci and La vedova ingegnosa by Giuseppe Sellitti. www. festivaldellavalleditria.it.
PERUGIA - UMBRIA UMBRIA JAZZ 12-July-21 Aug
Wake up!! Music will save the planet is the hopeful theme this year. There are concerts, workshops and jazz
46 | July-August 2019 • Wanted in Rome
July and Aug
with music by Rossini, Puccini and Dvorak. The one dance event on 12 July could be controversial as the star is Sergei Polunin (see Dance) now under a cloud for his homophobic posts on Instagram. According to the programme he will dance with choreographers Ross Freddie Ray (Fraudulent Smile) and Yuka Oishi (Sacre), alongside Johann Kobborg. www.ravellofestival.com.
RAVENNA EMILIA ROMAGNA RAVENNA FESTIVAL 5 June-16 July 1-10 Nov
The theme of the Ravenna festival this year is In alto mare aperto, which could hardly be more appropriate considering the times. This year the final Roads of Friendship concert (9 July) conducted by Muti, which is usually in some conflict-torn part of the world, will be in Athens at the Odeon of Herodes Atticus on the Acropolis. The Alto Mare theme includes the Mediterranean trade and culture links between Greece and Rome, stretching back to ancient Greece and looking forwards to Europe today. The Young Artists for Dante come back again this year, leaving a tribute every day on the poet’s grave and there are vespers at S. Vital each evening. The dance section concludes with John Neumeier and the Hamburg Ballet (5-6 July). The last concert on 3 July is with the Orchestre National de France conducted by Emmanuel Krivine with Antoine Tamestit, viola, playing music by Brahms, Liszt and Berlioz (Harold en Italie symphony) to mark the 150th anniversary of the composer’s death. The three operas in the autumn are Bellini’s Norma (1-8 Nov) Verdi’s Aida (2-9 Nov) and Bizet’s Carmen (3-10 Nov). This year’s autumn opera trilogy follows
Incontri in Terra di Siena.
the same format as other years with three operas staged consecutively at the Alighieri Theatre, as well as workshops and the use of modern technology. All details and booking are already on the easy-to-use website, www.ravennafestival.org.
SIENA - TUSCANY INCONTRI IN TERRA DI SIENA LA FOCE 21-29 July
This festival was founded in memory of Iris Origo and her husband Antonio by their daughter Benedetta and grandson Antonio Lysy. It is centred in the now immaculate estate which was nearly derelict when Iris and Antonio moved there in the 1920s, and which was immortalised in her book War in Val D’Orcia. The programme is its usual high standard with excellent soloists, conductors and ensembles playing a mixed repertoire of well- and lesser-known music. Most of the concerts are in churches in the neighbourhood. The concerts are often followed by dinner in nearby restaurants and there are also tours of La Foce gardens, surrounding museums and churches, as well as wine-tastings. www.itslafoce.org.
SPOLETO - UMBRIA SPOLETO FESTIVAL DEI DUE MONDI 28 June-14 July
The theme of the festival is Ocean of Inspiration and this year’s poster featuring David LaChapelle’s picture Sister Moon sets the Siren against the constant movement of the waves in the ocean behind her. The festival, directed by Giorgio Ferrara, still attracts prestigious names in theatre such as Emma Dante with the play Esodo (4-14 July), Marisa Berenson with Berlin Kabarett (4-13 July), Lucinda Childs and Adriana Asti in
the Ballade of Zerline by Hermann Broch (4-14 July) and the continuing Young European theatre project (114 July) now in its seventh year. In the dance section the Dutch National Ballet (5-7 July) performs Ode to the Master (see Dance). There are still the noontime concerts and the closing concert on 14 July is with the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma orchestra and chorus conducted by Daniele Gatti in Piazza del Duomo. All details of times and places are on the festival website, www.festivaldispoleto.com.
TORRE DEL LAGO - TUSCANY PUCCINI FESTIVAL 6 July-2 Aug
The operas in the Puccini Festival at Torre del Lago this year are Turandot (13, 19 July, 17 Aug), Tosca (11 July, 18, 24 Aug), La Fanciulla del West, which is a new production (12, 26 July), Madama Butterfly also in a new production (27 July, 12 and 23 Aug), Le Villi (16 Aug). www. puccinifestival.it.
VERONA - VENETO VERONA ARENA FESTIVAL 21 June to 7 Sept
This year the operas are Verdi’s La Traviata in a new set designed by Franco Zeffirelli (11- 30 Aug and 5 Sept) with Placido Domingo singing the role of Germont on 1 Aug; Verdi’s Aida with the 1913 set designs (5-28 July, 3 -31 Aug, 3-7 Sept) conducted by Gianfranco Bosio and by Placido Domingo on 28 July; Verdi’s Il Trovatore (2-26 July) directed by and with new set designs by Zeffirelli and Anna Netrebko and Yusiv Evyazov singing on 4,7 July; Bizet’s Carmen (6-27 July, 2-27 Aug, 4 Sept) in a new production directed by Hugo de Ana and based in the 1930s and 40s Spain; Placido Domingo’s 50th anniversary night (4 Aug); Puccini’s Tosca (10-29 Aug, 6 Sept) directed by Hugo de Ana; Carmina Burana by Carl Orff on 11 Aug. Classical ballet star Roberto Bolle and his invited friends dance on 16,17 July. For exact dates see website, www.arena.it. Wanted in Rome • July-August 2019 | 47
Aida returns to the Baths of Caracalla this summer in a new production by Denis Krief.
opera MILAN TEATRO ALLA SCALA I MASNADIERI BY VERDI 18 June-7 July
This is a new La Scala production directed by David McVicar, who returns to the Milan opera house for the first time in five years, and is conducted by Michele Mariotti. Michele Pertusi sings the role of Massimilliano, the father, Fabio Sartori of Carlo and Lisette Oropesa as Amalia. It is one of Verdi’s early operas based on a play by Schiller. It has never been highly popular and almost dropped out of the opera repertoire but is now revived every few years by one of the top opera houses. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.
PRIMA LA MUSICA POI LE PAROLE BY SALIERI and GIANNI SCHICCHI BY PUCCINI 6-9 July
La Scala presents two one act operas performed by the young soloists of
the opera house. Both operas will be conducted by Adam Fischer with Ambrogio Maestri as both Salieri and Gianni Schicchi. This is a Los Angeles Opera production of Gianni Schicchi directed by Woody Allen. It is only the third time that Allen’s version of Puccini’s comic opera has been staged and it’s the first time in Italy. Productions start again in September with Rigoletto (2-20 Sept) and then with L’Elisir D’Amore (10 Sept-10 Oct). La Scala has now announced its 2019-2020 season which opens with Puccini’s Tosca, conducted by Riccardo Chailly and directed by Davide Livermore (10 Dec-8 Jan). Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.
PESARO ROSSINI OPERA FESTIVAL 11-23 Aug
Pesaro always has something unusual to offer and this year it is Demetrio e Polibio directed by David Livermore (12-23 Aug) and L’Equivoco Stravagante directed by Moshe Leiser and Patrice Caurier (13-22 Aug). Demetrio e Polibio was Rossini’s first opera, written in 1809 to a libretto by Vincenzina Vignanò-Mombelli. The work was commissioned by Vincenzina’s husband the tenor Domenico Mombelli and was initially performed privately and only
48 | July-August 2019 • Wanted in Rome
professionally in Rome at Teatro Valle in 1812. L’Equivoco Stravagante was staged in Bologna in 1811 but was closed down after three performances because it appeared to encourage desertion from the army. It was first revived in Naples in the 1970s and then taken up by the Rossini festival in 2002 and again in 2010. For those who don’t want to be quite so adventurous there is also Semiramide in a new production directed by Graham Vick and conducted by Michele Mariotti (11-20 Aug). Il Viaggio a Reims (18, 20 Aug) is with the students of the Accademia Rossiniana conducted by Nikolas Nägele in a 2001 production by Emilio Sagi. www.rossinifestival.it.
ROME BATHS OF CARACALLA TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA AIDA BY VERDI 4 July-3 Aug
This is a new production of Verdi’s opera directed by Denis Krief conducted by Jordi Bernacér. Verdi’s Aida is perfectly suited to the magestic setting of the Baths of Caracalla and it now returns for the first time since 2011. This is Krief’s debut with Aida. His last production at Caracalla was Puccini’s Turndot in 2015. Baths of Caracalla, www.operaroma.it.
LA TRAVIATA BY VERDI 19 July-8 Aug
Verdi’s Traviata is conducted by Manlio Bensi and directed by Lorenzo Mariani with Violetta as Francesca Dotto and Valentina Varriale from the Fabbrica Young Artists programme, Alessandro Scotto di Luzio as Alfredo (all three of whom sang these roles in January at Rome’s opera theatre in Sofia Coppola’s production) and Marcello Rosiello as Giorgio Germont. Mariani’s production was performed at Caracalla last year. Baths of Caracalla, www.operaroma.it.
GALA PLACIDO DOMINGO NOCHE ESPAŇOLA 7 Aug
The great concert of the three tenors was given at the Baths of Caracalla for the first time in 1990. Placido
Domingo returns for a concert with mainly Spanish music, accompanied by the Teatro dell’Opera orchestra as well as Ana Maria Martinez and Arturo Chacon Cruz and the Spanish flamenco company Antonio
ACADEMIES CASA DI GOETHE 24 May-20 Sept
The Academic Body at the American Academy in Rome. Stefan Sagmeister (Resident 2019) AIGA Detroit 1999. Photograph by Tom Schierlitz. ©Stefan Sagmeister. Courtesy of the artist.
AMERICAN ACADEMY IN ROME 22 May-13 July
An exhibition titled The Academic Body charts the changing representations of the body in art and society from 1894, the year in which the American Academy in Rome was founded, up to the present day. The exhibition features work by artists affiliated with the AAR (Fellows and Residents) whose work has explored themes relating to the body and gender in provocative ways, as well as artists whose “trajectories have intersected meaningfully and critically with Italy and the academic tradition.” American Academy in Rome, tel. 0658461, www.aarome.org.
The Casa di Goethe presents an exhibition dedicated to The Sorrows of Young Werther, a loosely autobiographical novel by Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, first published in 1774. Written in a matter of weeks, the story was inspired by Goethe’s unrequited love for Charlotte Buff. The book turned the 24-year-old writer into an overnight literary celebrity and prompted the youth of the day to dress like Werther – blue tailcoat and canary yellow waistcoat. The Rome exhibition, curated by museum director Maria Gazzetti, tells the publishing story of the German novel through editions and illustrations from German museums and libraries, as well as examining the book’s influence on Italian literature. Casa di Goethe, Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it.
Gades. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1 www. operaroma.it. See also Festivals outside Rome for other opera productions.
Medici following the recent loss of the academy’s trees following strong winds. The exhibiting fellows are: Sasha Blondeau (composer), Miguel Bonnefoy (writer), Rébecca Digne (plastic artist), Frederika Amalia Finkelstein (writer), Gaëlle Gabillet et Stéphane Villard (designers), Hélène Giannecchini (writer), Lola Gonzàlez (filmmaker and plastic artist), François Hébert (filmmaker), Clara Iannotta (composer), Pauline Lafille (art historian), Thomas Lévy-Lasne (painter), Mathieu Lucas (architect and landscaper), Léonard Martin (plastic artist), Lili Reynaud-Dewar (plastic artist), Riccardo Venturi (art historian). The exhibition can be visited Tues-Sun 10.00-19.00. French Academy in Rome – Villa Medici, Viale Trinità dei Monti 1, tel. 0667611, www.villamedici.it. Le vent se lève at Villa Medici. Installation by Gaëlle Gabillet and Stéphane Villard.
FRENCH ACADEMY IN ROME 24 May-15 Aug
Villa Medici, the French Academy in Rome, presents Le vent se lève, the annual exhibition by resident fellows, curated by Hou Hanru and Evelyne Jouanno. The 16 participating artists work in various fields of creation, including visual arts, design, architecture, music, film, literature and art history, and all projects stem from their oneyear sojourn in Rome. The crossdisciplinary show confronts many of today’s pressing issues, from social and environmental crisis to political struggle, with new exhibition space created in the grounds of Villa Wanted in Rome • July-August 2019 | 49
lassical lassical
The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a definitive list of all the music that is available in the city. The following is a list of the main musical There are also concerts in many of the associations in Rome but it is not a definitive churches and sometimes in the museums. list of all the music that is available in the city. There are also concerts in many of the Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della churches and sometimes in the museums. Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Auditorium Conciliazione, ViaP. de della Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Accademia Filarmonica Teatro Auditorium Parco della Romana, Musica, Viale P. de Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro starts on 15 Oct Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season concerts Parco della Musica. The startsat onAuditorium 15 Oct newAccademia season startsS. on 5Cecilia, Oct www.santacecilia.it. All
concerts Universitaria at Auditorium Parco della Musica. Istituzione dei Concerti, AulaThe newUniversità season starts on 5 Oct www.concertiiuc.it Magna, la Sapienza,
Istituzione Universitaria deiGonfalone Concerti,32a, Aula Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it www.oratoriogonfalone.com Oratorio delMethodist Gonfalone, Via delPiazza Gonfalone 32a, RomeConcerts, Church, Ponte www.oratoriogonfalone.com S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it RomeConcerts, Piazza Ponte Roma Sinfonietta, Methodist AuditoriumChurch, Ennio Morricone, S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Roma Auditorium Roma Tre Sinfonietta, Orchestra, some concertsEnnio are atMorricone, Teatro Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others at Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are are at Teatro the Aula Magna, Piazza Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, 8, Palladium, Bartolomeo Romano Universita Roma Tre, Via while Ostienze teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, others234, are at www.r30.org the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Tre,festivals Via Ostienze 234, There are oftenRoma concerts, and opera www.r30.org recitals in several churches in Rome.
often concerts, festivals and153, opera All There Saints' are Anglican Church, Via Babuino recitals in several churches in Rome. www.allsaintsrome.org All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. www.allsaintsrome.org Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7 Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com
Oratorio del Caravita, Caravita St Paul's Within the Walls,Via Viadella Nazionale and7 the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the S. Agnese Sagrestia del Borromini, corner ofin ViaAgone, Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it Piazza Navona S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Palazzo PiazzaDoria NavonaPamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum Serenades by Night Dinner throughout and Opera dinner afterwards. Viawith del Corso 305, the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum www.doriapamphilj.com and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com Jan 2019 • Wanted in Romein Rome 5050 |48 Oct 2018 • Wanted Rome ||July-August 2019in • Wanted
MUSIC MUSIC THEATR THEATRE CINEMA CINEMA VENUES VENUES
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MUSIC THEATRE CINEMA DANCE OPERA
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inema inema
The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wantedshow in Rome website for The following cinemas movies in English weekly updates. or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for Adriano, Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 weeklyPiazza updates. Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 0686391361 Barberini, Piazza BarberiniMastroianni 24-26, 1, tel. Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello 0686391361 tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it
Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it 068553485 Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 068553485 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 066861068 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 066861068 Odeon, Piazza Stefano 22, tel. Nuovo Sacher, LargoJacini Ascianghi 1, 0686391361 tel. 065818116
Space Moderno, Piazza della 44, tel. Odeon, Piazza Stefano JaciniRepubblica 22, tel. 0686391361 06892111 Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebec06892111 chini 3-5, tel. 06892111 Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111
ddance oopera p pop r ock r ance
Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it
Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano www.teatrovascello.it 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it
pera
Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it
op
ock
Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.
Concert venues ranging from major pop and Alexanderplatz, 9, tel. 0683775604 rock groups to Via jazzOstia and acoustic gigs. www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org Angelo Mai Via Atlantico delle Terme di Atlantico, VialeAltrove, dell’Oceano 271d, Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it
Atlantico, Viale Atlantico Auditorium Parcodell’Oceano della Musica, Viale 271d, P. de tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com Auditorium della Viale de Casa del Jazz, Parco Viale di PortaMusica, Ardeatina 55,P.tel. Coubertin,www.casajazz.it tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com 06704731,
t
Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it
heatre heatre
Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net www.teatrobelli.it Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobelli.it www.teatrobrancaccio.it Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatrobrancaccio.it www.teatroghione.it Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. www.teatroghione.it 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net Jan 2019 • Wanted in Romein Rome 5250| |July-August 2019 • Wanted
Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com Lanificio 159,ViaVia di Pietralata 159, Live Alcazar, Cardinale Merry del Valtel. 14, 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com Live Alcazar, Merry del 35, Val 14, Monk Club, Via ViaCardinale Giuseppe Mirri tel. tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com 0664850987, www.monkroma.it Monk Club, ViaPiazzale Giuseppe Mirri 35,1, tel. PalaLottomatica, dello Sport tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it PalaLottomatica, Piazzale Sport 1, tel. Rock in Roma, Via Appiadello Nuova 1245, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com
Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it www.teatrosangenesio.it Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsiwww.teatrosangenesio.it stina.it Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.ilsistina.it www.teatrovascello.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Vittoria,www.teatrovascello.it Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. tel. 065898031, 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it 51 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome
RO MA
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Wanted in Rome | December 2017
Rome’s artart capital continues to to grow with newnew murals by important Italian and Rome'sreputation reputationasasananimportant importantstreet street capital continues grow with murals by important Italian international streetstreet artistsartists appearing all the all time. the works located the suburbs, often far often from the and international appearing theMost time.ofMost of theare works are in located in the suburbs, far centre. Here is where to is find Rome’s mainthe street artstreet projects murals. from the centre. Here where to find main artand projects and murals around Rome. Esquilino Esquilino Murals Murals byby Alice Alice Pasquini, Pasquini, Gio Gio Pistone, Nicola Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Alessandrini, Diamond. Diamond. Casa Casa dell’Architettura, dell'Architettura, Piazza Fanti 47. PiazzaMafredo Manfredo Fanti 47. Marconi Marconi The The M.A.G.R. M.A.G.R. (Museo (Museo Abusivo Abusivo Gestito Gestitodai daiRom), Rom),a aproject projectby byFrench French street artistSeth Seth is located in a street artist is located in a former former soap factory Via Antonio soap factory on Viaon Antonio AvogaAvogadro, opposite dro, opposite Ostiense'sOstiense’s landmark landmark Gasometro. details see Gasometro. For For details see www.999contemporary.com. www.999contemporary.com. Museodell’Altro dell’Altroe edell’Altrove dell’Altrovedidi Museo Metropoliz Metropoliz This former former meat meat factory factory inin the the This outskirts of of Rome art outskirts Rome isis now nowa astreet street museum being home hometoto art museumasaswell well as as being some200 200squatting squatters,migrants. many of The them some migrants. The Museo dell’Altrodi e Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove dell’Altroveor diMAAM, Metropoliz, or MAAM, Metropoliz, is only open only open Saturdays, and onis Saturdays, andon features the work the work of moreincluding than 300 offeatures more than 300 artists artists including Gio Edoardo Kobra,Edoardo Gio Kobra, Pistone, Pistone, Sten&Lex Diamond.and See Sten&Lex, Pablo and Echaurren MAAM Facebook page for details. Borondo. See MAAM Facebook page Via Prenestina 913. for details. Via Prenestina 913. Ostiense
Ostiense Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Porto Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Fluviale. Porto Fluviale. Fish’n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via Fish’n’Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale. del Porto Fluviale. Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali. Magazzini Generali. Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense Via Ostiense. underpass, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense. Pigneto Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Pigneto Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71. Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.
Via Via Fanfulla Fanfulla da da Lodi. Lodi. 2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio. Fortebraccio. 2501 mural on Via Blu by Sten Blu Landscape Landscape by Sten & & Lex. Lex. Via Via Francesco Baracca. Francesco Baracca. Prati Prati Anna Magnaniportrait portrait by Diavù. Anna Magnani by Diavù. Nuovo Nuovo MercatoViaTrionfale, Via Mercato Trionfale, Andrea Doria. Andrea Doria. theSabotino. bear by Daniza the bear byDaniza ROA. Via ROA. Via Sabotino. Primavalle Primavalle The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via Cristoforo Numai. Cristoforo Numai. Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Theseus stabbing the Bembo. Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo. Quadraro Quadraro Tunnel murals by Mr THOMS and Gio Tunnel byMure. Mr THOMS and Pistone. murals Via Decio Gio Decio Mure. Via del NidoPistone. di Vespe Via by Lucamaleonte. Nido didel Vespe by Lucamaleonte. Via Monte Grano. del Monte Baby Hulkdel byGrano. Ron English. Via dei Baby PisoniHulk 89. by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89. Rebibbia Rebibbia Murals by Blu. Via Ciciliano and Via Murals by Blu. Via Palombini (Casal dèCiciliano Pazzi). and Via Palombini dè Pazzi). Welcome to(Casal Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Metro B station. Metro B station. S. Basilio S.SanBa Basilio features large-scale works on SanBa features large-scale works the façades of social-housing blockson in the of social-housing blocks the façades disadvantaged north-east suburb of in the disadvantaged north-east S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regenerasuburb of S.includes Basilio works near Rebibbia. tion project by Italian The project artistsregeneration Agostino Iacurci, Hitnesincludes and Blu works by Spain's ItalianLiqen. artistsViaAgostino alongside Maiolati, Iacurci, Hitnes and BluVia alongside Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Arcevia, Spain’s Via Treia.Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, Via Treia. S. Giovanni Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via S.Apulia Giovanni corner of Via Farsalo. Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.
54 | July-August 2019 • Wanted in Rome
It’s aa New NewDay Daybyby Alice Pasquini. It’s Alice Pasquini. Via Via Anton Ludovico. Anton Ludovico. S. Lorenzo Lorenzo S. AlicePasquini. Pasquini. ViaSabelli. dei Sabelli. Alice Via dei Feminicidemural mural Elisa Feminicide by Elisaby Caracciolo. Caracciolo. Via Dei Sardi.Via Dei Sardi. Borondo. Via Viadei deiVolsci Volsci159. 159. Borondo. Mural by by Agostino AgostinoIacurci Iacurci on Mural on the the Istituto Superiore di Lattanzio, Vittorio Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia. Via Aquilonia. Pietro S. Pietro UmaCabra Cabra Bordalo II. Stazione Uma byby Bordalo II. Stazione di S. Pietro, di Monte di S. Clivo Pietro, Clivo del di Gallo. Monte del Gallo. Testaccio Hunted Wolf by ROA. Via Galvani. Testaccio #KindComments AliceVia Pasquini, Via Hunted Wolf bybyROA. Galvani. Volta, Testaccio market. #KindComments by Alice Pasquini, Via Volta, Testaccio market. Tor Pignattara Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta. Tor Pignattara Etnik. Via Bartolomeo Perestrello 51. Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta. Coffee Etam Cru. Via Ludovico Etnik.Break ViabyBartolomeo Perestrello Pavoni. 51. Coffee Break by Etam Cru. Via Tom SawyerPavoni. by Jef Aerosol. Via Gabrio Ludovico Serbelloni. Tom Sawyer by Jef Aerosol. Via Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema Gabrio Serbelloni. Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Galeazzo Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Alessi. Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Herakut. Via Capua 14. Galeazzo Alessi. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Herakut. Via Capua 14. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Tor Marancia The Big City Life scheme features 14-m Tormurals Marancia tall by 22 Italian and internaThe Big City artists Life scheme features tional street including Mr 14-m tall by Jerico. 22 Italian and Klevra, Seth,murals Gaia and The idea international street was to transform theartists area's including blocks of Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia and Jerico. flats into an open-air art museum. Via TheMarancia. idea was to transform the area’s Tor www.bigcity.life.it. blocks of flats into an open-air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. For full details see website, www.bigcity.life.it.
Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth. Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.
Wanted in Rome • July-August 2019 | 55
agorski
By Kate Z
TONNARELLI CACIO E PEPE Cacio e pepe is a classic Roman pasta tradition which, until recently, was somewhat unknown outside of Italy. However, the last couple of years have seen the international food scene embrace this simple dish which was born from humble necessity, giving it a more glamorous lease of life. The dish originated in the Lazio countryside where shepherds would pack food to carry with them on the long journeys to move their flocks. Alongside cured meat products they would also take chunks of the local aged sheep milk cheese (which did not need refrigeration), handmade flour and water pasta that could be eaten dried for carbohydrates, and black pepper to stimulate warmth. These three ingredients eventually involved into the pasta dish we know and love, and the origins underline once and for all that there is no place for butter or oil in the authentic recipe. Nowadays cacio e pepe is usually served with a long, square-cut, fresh egg pasta called tonnarelli which gives an added richness to the dish and speeds up cooking time, but normal dried spaghetti can also be used. As with most seemingly easy recipes, the trick is in the timing and testing the perfect ratio of ingredients. Sadly, overcooking and not enough mixing will often result in a sticky, unpleasant final dish rather than the silky, creamy cheese sauce with a punch of pepper which constitutes the perfect result. The recipe below utilises a little-known trick of heating the pepper in a pan of water to infuse the flavour before finishing the cooking of the pasta in the peppery liquid. Extra starchy cooking water continuous mixing of the cheese should ensure the right consistency but, as any Roman will tell you, practice makes perfect.
Ingredients Serves 2 250g fresh tonnarelli 70g pecorino romano, finely grated 190ml cold water 26 twists freshly ground black pepper
Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil. In a separate frying pan, heat 190ml of cold water and twist in the black pepper with a pepper mill. Cook on a medium heat until it just begins to simmer. Cook the tonnarelli in the saucepan of boiling water as per the packet instructions but drain one minute before the end of the suggested cooking time, keeping aside the starchy pasta water. Place the tonnarelli in the frying pan of peppery water and cook for the final minute, stirring well. Gradually add in 1-2 cups of the starchy pasta water as you go. When the pasta is al dente remove the pan from the heat and quickly add the pecorino, stirring immediately. Toss the pan for 30 seconds, building up the creamy sauce. If the mixture is too dry add a little more cooking water and just keep stirring. Serve immediately with an extra sprinkling of pecorino romano and another good crack of black pepper.
58 | July-August 2019 • Wanted in Rome
The best aperitivo in Flaminio Flaminio, a neighbourhood only a stone’s throw from the city centre, is now home to a whole host of cocktail and aperitivo bars. You can take part in the ‘spritzmania’ or opt for a more traditional cocktail – there’s something for everyone. Food-wise you’ll find fresh fish, international cuisine, or even the finest cheese and charcuterie boards. We’ve selected five of the best bars for pre- or post-dinner, from new openings to old favourites. ENOTECA MOSTÒ Run by passionate and skilled sommelier Ciro Borriello, at Enoteca Mostò you’ll be advised on the perfect wine to suit your palate, with a brilliant selection of natural and French wines in particular. As for the food, there isn't a huge choice but what is on offer is fantastic quality. Aperitivo begins from 18.30 and you can choose a glass of either Franciacorta Brut Vezzoli (€7) or Particella 928 Cantina del Barone (€8) accompanied by a plate of tapas (€6) and artisan sausage. You can also order from the main menu and we highly recommend the desserts: millefeuille (€7) and white chocolate cheesecake with almond, mango and lime crumble (€7). Mon closed. APOTECA Facing on to Piazza Melozzo da Forlì, Apoteca is the perfect spot for an aperitivo pre-theatre or before heading to the stadium. There are seats at the bar where you can admire the large selection of craft beers. If you don’t fancy a beer there are also cocktails, mocktails and wine served by the glass. At aperitivo hour you can choose from a charcuterie (€10) or cheese board (€12), or even meat balls (€7), or the apotecaburger (€14). Apoteca serves cocktails both pre and post dinner. METROPOLITA One of the most recent bar openings in Flamminio, Metropolita is located right in front of the Ponte della Musica and is open from 18.00 until 02.00 (or until 17.00 on Sunday). You can enjoy either a cocktail or a glass of
wine accompanied by a selection of antipasti from the kitchen. The barmen serve both cocktails from all over the world, like the London Tequila (€11), as well as the usual classics (from €6-8). If you feel like something else to eat there’s also hummus served with pane carasau (Sardinian flat bread) (€6) or a platter of Italian and French cheeses (€18). The Metropolita can seat 65 people over its three floors. Open every day except Mondays. DILISCANDO This is the new fish restaurant in the Flaminio neighbourhood. The name, which means ‘filleting’, and the interiors create a seaside feel. Every day from 18.00 you can enjoy a glass of wine (from €5) and try some delicious fish dishes. On Thursdays the chef prepares five tasting plates to accompany five of the wines, and each week the selection is different. TREE BAR Located in the garden of Piazzale Manila, Tree Bar is a very popular place, especially with young people. Live music, competitions and the huge seating area outside make it a fun place to hang out. On Mondays there is an aperitivo buffet. You can also enjoy wine, beer or a cocktail with a cheese or meat board (€12 or €10) and then if you’re still peckish choose the dish of the day or from the main menu. We also highly recommend their homemade desserts (from €6-8) and their selection of spirits. Open daily from 18.30 to 01.30.
www.puntarellarossa.it
Apoteca, Piazza Melozzo da Forlì 15, tel. 3662511733. Metropolita, Piazza Gentile da Fabbriano 2, tel. 063240249.
Indirizzi
Enoteca Mostò, Viale Pinturicchio 32, tel. 3922579616.
Diliscando, Viale del Vignola 7, tel. 0689131376. Tree bar, Via Flaminia 226, tel. 0632652754.
Wanted in Rome • July-August 2019 | 59
I B WO R L D S C H O O L
Inspiring Global Citizens. romeinternationalschool.it +39 06 844 82 651
BOOK A CAMPUS VISIT In partnership with
FOUNDED IN 1976
VISIT OUR SCHOOL southlands.it +39 06 5053932
Preparing students for the world of tomorrow. In partnership with
Associations American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com Daughters of the American Revolution Pax Romana Chapter NSDAR paxromana@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com
International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490, www.iwcofrome.it Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 3338466820 Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Woman’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com
Books The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified. Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 Anglo American Bookshop Via delle Vite 102, tel. 066795222 Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it
Religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881 Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish)
62 | July-August 2019 • Wanted in Rome
Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484 Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com Otherwise Via del Governo Vecchio, tel. 066879825, www.otherwisebookshop.com St Patrick’s English-Language Lending Library Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 0688818727, Sun 10.00-12.30, Tues 10.00-14.00, Wed 15.00-18.00, Thurs 11.00-15.30 Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 3332284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday Service 10.30
Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei SS. Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Roma Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic) Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00
Support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.info Archè (HIV+children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/06582045580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 3381675680
Transport • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157066645-064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it
St Isidore College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic), Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827, www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri” Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022
Chiamaroma 24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606
Emergency numbers • • • • • • •
Ambulance tel. 118 Carabinieri tel. 112 Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 Fire brigade tel. 115 Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 Police tel. 113 Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355 Wanted in Rome • July-August 2019 | 63
In an ever growing global community, health care is not limited to a person's home country: people from every culture can find what they need to feel themselves at home in Campus Bio-Medico University Hospital of Rome
Your Passport to Worldclass Healthcare Campus Bio-Medico University Hospital of Rome provides: • Coordination of Hospital, physician and diagnostic appointments • Free of charge translation services for all the procedures • 12 hours medical services, including air ambulance transfer coordination • Partnership with major International Insurance Companies • Elevated International Standard and sole General Hospital JCI Accredited in Rome Whether you are a patient, family member or friend feel free to contact us at: Hospitaly - International Patients Program Officer Via Álvaro del Portillo, 200 - Rome (Italy) mail: info@hospitaly.it - phone: 0039.06.22541.8852 WWW.HOSPITALY.IT
Single Cycle Master Degree Program
EN
Medicine and Surgery
The new English-taught Master Degree Program is designed using a multidisciplinary approach to train students to become doctors practicing in a diverse biomedical-social culture with interdisciplinary and intercultural working skills. In line with the guiding principles of Campus Bio-Medico University of Rome, the teaching is entirely patient-centred and community-centred. A deep knowledge of ethical issues is applied to the use of advanced medical technology in order to promote health-care through a humanistic approach. Students are provided with strong foundations in scientific methodology, statistics and "evidence based medicine” imparted through means of Problem-Based Learning (PBL) a method that uses complex real-world problems as the vehicle to stimulate student learning of theoretical concepts and principles as opposed to direct presentation of facts and concepts. The program is designed in such a way that its core contents anticipate and integrate the European specifications for global standards in medical education according to the World Federation on Medical Education in international basic standards and quality development of biomedical education (WFME Office, University of Copenhagen, 2007) and the Basic Medical Education WFME Global Standards for Quality Improvement - 2015 Revision (WFME Office Ferney-Voltaire, France Copenhagen, Denmark 2015).
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