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THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME
WHAT'S+
ON
WHERE TO GO IN ROME
ART AND CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT GALLERIES MUSEUMS NEWS
0 0 0 0 6
GIOACHINO ROSSINI
la
TEATRO COSTANZI FIRST PERFORMANCE SAT
8 JUNE
8.00 PM
THE REPLICAS SUN
9 JUNE
4.30 PM
TUE
11
8.00 PM
WED
12
8.00 PM
THU
13
6.00 PM
cenerentola CONDUCTOR STEFANO MONTANARI DIRECTOR EMMA DANTE TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA ORCHESTRA AND CHORUS A TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA PRODUCTION
operaroma.it
TEATRO COSTANZI
JUNE 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 25, 26
GIACOMO PUCCINI
tosca CONDUCTOR JORDI BERNÀCER DIRECTOR ALESSANDRO TALEVI TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA ORCHESTRA AND CHORUS
WITH THE PARTECIPATION OF THE TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA SCUOLA DI CANTO CORALE
Roma Opera aperta LA
MEMO RIA
JUNE 26
Roma Opera aperta
Caracalla MMXIX
the tokyo ballet
MUSIC BY LEON MINKUS JEAN-PIERRE DROUET PIERRE CHERIZA IGOR STRAVINSKIJ FOUNDERS
PRIVATE SHAREHOLDERS
PATRONS
Ettore Festa, HaunagDesign - Illustrations by Gianluigi Toccafondo, photo by Rikimaru Hotta
TERME DI CARACALLA
A TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA PRODUCTION
CONT
EDITORIALS Sarah Court
8. WHERE HAVE ANCIENT ROME’S BUILDINGS GONE? Martin Bennett
14. GOLDEN GALA returns to ROME Ed White
ONLINE CLASSIFIEDS As of 1 January 2019 classified advertisements will no longer appear in the magazine but may be published around the clock on our website www.wantedinrome.com. DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: Marco Venturini EDITRICE: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9 PROGETTO GRAFICO E IMPAGINAZIONE: Dali Studio Srl STAMPA: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c. DIFFUSIONE: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425. Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131del 6/3/1985. Finito di stampare il 1/06/2019
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18. TO DO 20. BEACHES near ROME 21. LAKES AROUND ROME 22. MUSEUMS 26. ART GALLERIES 48. CULTURAL VENUES 52. WANTED IN ROME JUNIOR 54. STREET ART guide 57. PUNTARELLA ROSSA 58. RECIPE 62. USEFUL NUMBERS
Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 11, Numero 6 JUNE 2019
4. ADOPTING A DOG
MISCELLANY
31. EXHIBITIONS 36. art news 38. CLASSICAL 39. ROCK, pop, JAZZ 41. DANCE 42. festivals 45. OPERA 46. theatre 47. academies
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Ghetto, Ex-Drogheria, 2013 by Arch. Fabio Barilari, FBA www.fabio-barilari.blogspot.com Barilari's show Time Out is at Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1 (Piazza Mazzini) until 9 June. For details email wonderwallenter@gmail.com.
ENTS 4
ADOPTING A DOG IN ROME
44
14
FESTIVALS
GOLDEN GALA RETURNS TO ROME
42 FESTIVALS
Animals
ADOPTING A DOG IN ROME GUIDE ON HOW TO ADOPT A DOG FROM ROME'S KENNELS Sarah Court
A
re you ready to adopt a dog but don’t know where to begin looking in Italy? Although most people associate Rome with its cats, the good news is that there are many delightful dogs waiting for a home – and as long as you’re a resident in Italy, the whole process can be easy to negotiate, with support even after you take your new friend home. Finding your dog With news stories regularly being published on the harsh reality of puppy farms behind the pet trade, there are so many reasons to adopt a dog rather than buy one. Italy has a policy of housing all stray and abandoned dogs – none is euthanised – so there are literally hundreds to choose from in animal shelters in Rome alone. Meaning that there are dogs of all shapes, sizes and personalities that might suit your home and lifestyle. And all dogs come neutered and microchipped, ready to go. While there are animal welfare groups that have their own animal shelters, the Comune di Roma has its main dog shelter at Muratella (Via della Magliana 856; open daily 10.00-18.00), with more dogs housed at associated animal homes that can be visited by appointment at Villa Andreina (Acilia) and the ex-Cinodromo (Ponte Marconi). The website of the association AVCPP (www.iolibero.org) offers more information on each of these dog shelters, and their volunteers can facilitate your visit.
Yahoo is a little gentleman who would love you to take him home from Villa Andreina.
6 | June 2019 • Wanted in Rome
In each case, you should expect to meet a member of staff or a volunteer who will initially get to know you and your needs, so they can match you to the right kind of dog. The process of
finding your perfect pet will be much easier if you mention your previous experience with other dogs, the size of your home (and garden), the other members of your family (including children and pets) and your lifestyle. And a match made in heaven usually starts with you thinking through what personality and energy levels you would ideally find in a dog, allowing the volunteers to suggest suitable candidates, rather than going with an idea in mind of what your dog ought to look like. Adopting your dog Once you’ve found a dog you’d like to take home, you’ll be invited to bring all the members of the family to meet him or her and potentially to see if any other dogs you already have are compatible. On request, a dog can be checked to see how they react to cats so that you know how suitable the animal is before taking it home. Should everything be on track and your dog is happy with its new family, the volunteers will give you a simple one-page form to fill in to request adoption and take the dog home. You will need to have an ID and proof of residency with you. Your volunteer will usually offer to be on hand to check that all is going well as your dog adjusts to a new lifestyle, and whether you have any questions once your new friend is at home.
Benito is full of bounce for those who just want to have fun.
dog-related services being offered in and around Rome. A huge range of pet products is available in dedicated stores and online, dog groomers are ever more common (and can even come to your house), as are dog trainers, behaviourists, dog walkers and even dog day-care.
Life with your new dog
Signing up for a short course at a dog centre (centro cinofilo) with your dog is always a good idea, even if you adopt a mature animal. Having regular fun time is a positive way to bond with your dog, while the presence of a professional trainer will help translate between species as you both get used to each other. There are many dog centres in every neighbourhood of Rome, so take the time to find one which promotes only “positive” training methods (no punishments) and preferably where the trainer has a recognised qualification (for example, endorsement by ENCI, the Italian Kennel Club). Group lessons can help with socialisation and private sessions can help iron out individual quirks (usually in the owners!).
With nearly 900,000 dogs owned in the Lazio region alone, recent years have seen a surge of
As dogs are very sociable, it is useful to find a local pet-sitting service or dog day-care for
Should everything go well, after the threemonth trial period you can complete the paper-work for the definitive adoption and register your dog free of charge in the Comune di Roma’s dog registration database (anagrafe canina). If you adopt through the Comune shelters, they will help you with this paperwork; if you adopt at another shelter your volunteer will give you information on whether you need to visit the Comune Office for Companion Animals (Servizio Benessere degli Animali, Circonvallazione Ostiense 191) and then register in the dog database of your borough municipio offices.
Wanted in Rome • June 2019 | 7
Animals those times when you are out all day or away. Very often these can be found through your dog centre or vet so that you can trust the quality of the service. A reputable service will want to go through a gentle process of getting your dog used to their facility and the other dogs they will meet there, ensuring that they have fun and are always happy when away from home. Some day-care centres, such as La Canizza (www.facebook.com/lacanizza/), will even offer a pick-up/drop-off service from your home, sending WhatsApp photos to update you during the day. Taking your dog abroad: pet passports If you are only in Rome for a limited number of years, then you might be reassured to know that the process of taking your dog to another country is ever easier and shouldn’t stop you from adopting in Italy. Your four-legged friend can accompany you home thanks to the system of the EU Pet Travel Scheme, which allows dogs, cats and ferrets to travel between member countries with a passport and avoid a lengthy quarantine period. For owners moving to the United Kingdom, it will be reassuring to know that updated government guidance states that there will be no change to the current requirements for pets entering the UK from the EU after Brexit (www.gov.uk/guidance/pet-travelto-europe-after-brexit). The first step before applying for a pet passport is to take your dog to the vet for a rabies vaccination and obtain a certificate to demonstrate this. After 21 days you can take the certificate and apply for the passport at the animal office of your local ASL health centre. Once you have the passport, you should then check with the country you are travelling to if there are any additional requirements, such as the UK ask-
A happy ending for Bart who after years in a cage found a new family in Rome.
ing for veterinary-documented tapeworm treatments immediately before travel (www.gov.uk/ take-pet-abroad/pet-passport). A good volunteer, who has helped you through the adoption process and beyond, should still be available to talk you through these issues should the need arise in the future.
Come and meet a dog from Villa Andreina If you’re looking for a faithful friend to share your life with, he or she might just be among the dogs of all shapes, sizes and ages at Villa Andreina. Tucked away in a quiet corner between Acilia and Casalpalocco, about 70 homeless dogs are currently being kept for the Comune di Roma. A local volunteer of the AVCPP association, Mary, is available to meet you, understand your needs and introduce you to some of the delightful characters that are ready for adoption. Mary can be contacted by phone or WhatsApp at 3470850422 for those who prefer to speak English.
8 | June 2019 • Wanted in Rome
History
WHERE HAVE ANCIENT ROME’S BUILDINGS GONE? OVER THE MILLENNIA, IMPERIAL ROME’S SPLENDID BUILDINGS HAVE BEEN DAMAGED, PLUNDERED, REDESIGNED AND THEN RECYCLED INTO THE FABRIC OF THE MODERN CITY Martin Bennett
R
uins and artefacts re-emerging is, Rome being Rome, an everyday event. Equally fascinating is how they disappeared in the first place. “Speak, o stones,” Goethe, visiting the Forum, begins his Roman Elegies, although sometimes also the holes can have voices. To cite a conversation overheard while on a tour-bus rounding the Colosseum: “It looks like a massive cake.” Then, in a similarly Texan accent, “Yeah, honey, and the ants got at it.” In many an ancient pile, the first element to vanish is metal; those holes in the Colosseum
were once filled with iron clamps, 300 tons worth by one account, securing 100,000 cubic metres of travertine. As depicted on a surviving coin, also missing are statues adorning the arches in the second and third tiers, along with the vast bronze shields or medallions Diocletian placed on the fourth. The “‘ants” mentioned by the tourist were probably the barbarians, with metal, precious or base, being eminently portable once melted down. Edward Gibbon notes in his Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire, first published in 1776, that “every
Byzantine emperor Constans II removed the marble from the Basilica of Maxentius in 667.
10 | June 2019 • Wanted in Rome
Over the centuries Teatro Marcello morphed into Palazzo Savelli.
traveller who views the Farnese Palace may curse the sacrilege and luxury of those upstart princes.” Similar blame is apportioned to the Barberini papacy’s dismantling of the bronze beams of the Pantheon’s portico to build cannon, then to supply material for Bernini’s baldacchino in St Peter’s. “What the Barbarians couldn’t do the Barberini completed,” went a quip posted on the Pasquino (talking) statue nearby. Yet Byzantine emperor Constans II had been here even earlier. On a 12-day visit in 667, he stripped the bronze from the Pantheon’s dome to adorn his capital Byzantium, topping up his booty with marble ripped from the Basilica of Maxentius in the Roman Forum. Not that he got to enjoy his pickings. Stopping off in Sicily, he was murdered in his bath. A variant of “You can’t take it with you” is Alaric the Visigoth. In 410, gold, bronze, iron and furniture were all literally carted away in a threeday rampage. True, Alaric did allow the old St Peter’s and St Paul’s basilicas to be used as a refuge. That didn’t stop the abduction of Emperor Honorius’ sister, subsequently given to Alaric’s brother in marriage. History relates the bride’s shock on receiving wedding gifts of 100 cups a-brim with valuables she recognised as having been stolen from her fellow Roman matrons. The Julian and the Aemilia basilicas in the Roman Forum were torched, the latter’s flooring imprinted with molten coins dropped by a fleeing money-changer. Alaric headed south to Sicily, only to fall ill near Cosenza. His armoured body, horse and loot are all buried in a nearby river, first diverted and then redirected back on course to foil treasure-hunters.
The Vandals, in 455, were more thorough. The Visigoths used carts; the Vandals, with a kingdom stretching from Tangiers to Tunis, carried off their booty by the shipload, their rampage lasting weeks rather than days. Vessels were moored along the Tiber, two of them for hostages, one for men, one for women and children, each worth their weight in lucre. The gilded roof-tiles of the temple of Jupiter on the Capitoline hill served to decorate Genseric’s palace in Carthage, as did the Menorah and other Jewish treasures of the Forum’s strangelynamed Templum Pacis. Come the late sixth century, full-scale neglect sets in. Aqueducts become inoperative and baths and theatres are left to crumble as Rome’s ruling classes fled to Byzantium, sometimes taking statues with them; the four bronze horses Venice brought back from Byzantium may once have adorned Hadrian’s tomb. Monuments beyond repair were dismantled and/or burned down for quicklime. Sinking under its rubble (frequent fires were also a factor), the Forum was renamed Campo Vaccino, cattle replacing monuments; Basilica Iulia became part building yard for the marble-crushers, part hemp factory. The Colosseum continued for a while to be used for entertainment, although areas under the vaults were transformed into workshops and housing and the arena became a cemetery. By the Middle Ages, parts of it were turned into a fortress by the powerful Frangipani family who ruled over Rome. After numerous lightning strikes and earthquakes, it eventually became a quarry. Wanted in Rome • June 2019 | 11
History In 1452 it is recorded that one quarryman alone carted away 2,522 barrow-loads of precious travertine. Teatro Marcello morphs into Monte Savelli, named after another warring Roman family. Eliogobalus’ (private) amphitheatre dwindles to an elegant bulge in the Aurelian wall (near S. Croce in Gerusalemme.) The disappearance of Pompey’s theatre, once the world’s largest, was accelerated by the annual flooding of the Tiber. It also ended up as a convenient quarry for the mediaeval buildings springing up around Campo de’ Fiori and the Renaissance Palazzo della Cancelleria. Some ancient structures are now detectable only by the architectural symmetries above them. Two streets behind Largo Argentina replicate the curved platea of Pompey’s theatre. The circular church of S. Bernardo alle Terme likewise reflects the spheristum, or indoor ballpark, of Diocletian’s baths, while the lower sweep of Piazza Repubblica partly reincarnates the baths’ exedra, reflected in the square’s former name, Piazza dell’Esedra, still often used today. And the Calidarium? Thanks to Michelangelo’s re-design, it is there in the concave entrance of S. Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri. The baths’ giant cistern, however, disappeared completely during the construction of Rome’s central train station, Stazione Termini (1860-76), named after the baths nearby. Gibbon also cited hostile attacks by early Christians. True, in 383 pagan worship was abolished and a decade later temples were closed. But by occupying monuments, Christians could also protect them. The Forum’s curia survives partly due to its conversion into a church; a Christian wall fresco flanks two friezes depicting Trajan. Largo di Torre Argentina contains the ruins of Pompey's Theatre.
Romulus’ temple is the Forum’s best preserved monument, having being enfolded inside SS. Cosma and Damiano. The columns of the nearby Antoninus and Faustina temple form the original façade of S. Lorenzo in Miranda; notice their colour change toward the top, which is an indication of how deep they were once buried. And then, who knows what might have happened to the Pantheon but for its sixth-century consecration? Depredation of the Colosseum ceased after 18thcentury Pope Benedict XIV placed the Stations of the Cross there, and Trajan’s column still stands because its top was used for centuries to house St Simeon Stylites-type hermits. In more recent times it was S. Clemente’s Irish Dominican fathers, who in 1912 saved the mithraeum three floors underground from flooding by building a 700-m long tunnel linking it to the Cloaca Massima, the city’s main drain. At SS. Giovanni and Paolo on the Celio, the rector initiated excavations in 1887 that were to uncover not three levels but several: the two martyrs’ burial place, then a fourth-century AD domus and below that third- and second-century insulae. So in an archaeological labyrinth, pagan nymphaeum and baths rub walls and/or ceilings with nooks of palaeo-Christianity. Not to mention the subterranean jewel of what must rank as Rome’s snuggest and most oddly-situated museum to house artefacts; proceed downhill past SS. Giovanni e Paolo, and the Case Romane del Celio is tucked below on the right. Another agent of disappearance is “damnatio memoriae”, whereby a new emperor sought to cancel all reference to a perfidious predecessor. Domitian’s horse in the Forum and Caracalla’s cruel erasures of his murdered brother, Gaeta, are examples. (Marcus Aurelius’ statue survived after early Christian emperors mistook it for Constantine’s.) These days, a similar if less discriminating annihilation is the traffic fumes eating away the statuary of many a triumphal arch or column, flattening the finely-carved facial features. Vanished, one might say, literally into thin air, supplementing the list of other antiquities looted, burned down, displaced or re-incorporated. Or, on a more positive note, awaiting the touch of archaeologist’s laser and trowel to conjure them back into the daylight.
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Sport
GOLDEN GALA RETURNS TO ROME TOP INTERNATIONAL ATHLETES CONVERGE IN ROME FOR THE 39TH EDITION OF ITALY’S ANNUAL TRACK AND FIELD EVENT Ed White Qatar’s Abderrahman Samba won the men's 400m hurdles at the 2018 Golden Gala.
T
he world’s fastest and strongest athletes will return to light up the Eternal City as the annual Golden Gala Diamond League event opens at the Stadio Olimpico on Thursday 6 June.
It has since become part of the Diamond League, which, outside of the Olympic Games and the World Championships, is the pinnacle of athletics with competitors bidding for the biggest financial rewards in the sport across a season of events.
The action-filled evening of athletics features 16 events on the track and in the field, and is a rare occasion to watch elite level sport at an affordable price, with the best seats selling for under €30 and the cheapest on offer for just €5.
In total, there are 12 appointments each year, including those in other European cities such as Brussels, Zurich, London and Paris.
The Golden Gala has taken place annually in Italy since 1980, when founder Primo Nebiolo had the idea of bringing together athletes from the United States and other NATO countries following the boycott of the 1980 Olympics. 14 | June 2019 • Wanted in Rome
The night in Rome is the fourth event of this year’s calendar and comes one week after Stockholm (30 May) and precedes the competition in Oslo on 13 June. Eight world records have been set during earlier competitions in Rome, including those by
Sport legendary pole-vault figures Sergey Bubka and Yelena Isinbayeva.
onds over the distance last year and is the second fastest Italian in history over the distance.
This year’s event kicks off with the women’s 100m race, with the fastest women in the world set to light up the track.
While Italy is not particularly known for its success on the track, there will be a number of home hopefuls among those bidding to get their hands on some coveted Diamond League points.
Ivory Coast sprinter Murielle Ahoure claimed the overall 100m title in 2018 and was a model of consistency throughout the calendar of competitions. The 31-year-old will want to put her marker down on the competition again in 2019 – with just one year to go before the Olympic Games in Tokyo. With the Olympics in mind, two-time gold medallist Shelly-Ann Fraser-Pryce from Jamaica will be another athlete to keep a firm eye on. The seven-time world champion holds the Jamaican record over 100m with a clocking of 10.70 seconds and ranks fourth on the list of all-time sprinters. Fellow Jamaican Elaine Thompson and English Gardner from the US are other names likely to feature in the evening’s big showcase. Having taken place in Rome last year, the men’s 100m will not be part of the schedule this time around. Instead, the best male sprinters will be competing over 200m. Nigeria’s Divine Oduduru was the first sprinter to break the coveted 20-second barrier over 200m in 2019, and the 23-year-old could be one to shine under the lights of the Olympic Stadium. Hoping to challenge Oduduru will be Italian sprinter Eseosa Desalu, who won a silver medal at the 2018 Mediterranean Games. The 23-year-old from the Cremona province in northern Italy set a lifetime best of 20.13 sec-
The full list of men’s events in 2019 is 200m, 800m, 5,000m, 110m hurdles, 400m hurdles, 3,000m steeplechase, high jump, triple jump and shot put. For the women, the events on track will include the 100m, 400m, 1,500m and 400m hurdles, while the field events will be the pole vault, long jump and javelin. For entertainment value, the men’s 110m hurdles will provide spectators with plenty to see. The sound of hurdles clattering as the runners glide down the track makes it a show-stopper to watch, and competition this year is red hot. American Aries Merritt holds the world record in the event but faces an emerging threat from challengers including China’s Wenjun Xie, Jamaica’s Omar McLeod and fellow countrymen Grant Holloway and Daniel Roberts. The Italy challenge will be spearheaded by Paolo Dal Molin, who set the third fastest time by an Italian in the sprint hurdles last year, clocking 13.40 seconds during a race in Berlin. Lorenzo Perini and Hassan Fofana are two other Italian hurdlers to look out for on the schedule. Ayomide Folorunso, who emigrated to Italy from Nigeria in 2004, ran a personal best in Rome 12 months ago to place herself fourth on the all-time Italy list over the 400m hurdles.
Women's events on track will include the 100m, 400m, 1,500m and 400m hurdles. Photo Colombo/FIDAL.
Sport The 22-year-old won gold at the European U23 championships two years ago and is one of the country’s brightest performers. Young javelin thrower Sara Zabarino will be another Italian female shooting for the stars, having already posted a personal best this year. Elsewhere, young shot-putter Leonardo Fabbri will be another for the home crowd to cheer on, having launched the put over the coveted 20-metre mark already this season, and is sure to receive an ovation each time he takes his place in the shot-put circle. Now in its tenth year, the Diamond League was created by the International Association of Athletics Federations (IAAF) to give greater focus and media attention to all events in the sport. To create a quick-fire yet not over-ambitious schedule, the IAAF split up the events and spread them across the season. This means the full programme of events in a traditional athletics meeting has been divided between the men and the women. However, from 2020 the competition will have a slightly different look after changes to the set-up were agreed in March. The IAAF has decided to stage only races up to 3,000m in distance in a bid to create a 90-minute programme designed for a television audience. The League will have 12 meetings and a single final at the end of the season, with 24 disciplines (12 male and 12 female). Further changes are anticipated before next year. IAAF president and four-time Olympic winner middle-distance runner for Britain Sebastian Coe American Aries Merritt holds the world record in the men's 110m hurdles.
said: “The IAAF Diamond League is the way millions of sports fans engage with athletics on a top level every year. It is a strong circuit, but we can make it even stronger and more relevant to the world our athletes and our fans live in today.” South Africa’s Caster Semenya has twice won gold at the Olympic Games over 800m, but faced repeated questions over her legitimacy to race. Her victory in the 2009 world championships, coupled with her physique, triggered an investigation by the IAAF. New rules were introduced, requiring hyperandrogenous athletes to take medication to lower their testosterone level for events between 400m and 1,500m. But the court of arbitration for sport on 1 May rejected Semenya’s challenge to the ruling, which thus came into effect in time for this year’s Golden Gala. Semenya has yet to reveal whether she will agree to take medication and compete throughout the Diamond League season in 2019. She may also opt to compete over 5,000m – having started the season with a personal best over the longer distance. Nevertheless, the off-track distractions won’t take away from Rome’s night in the athletics spotlight. And organisers have been promoting the event across the city by laying a temporary track near its famous sights. Adults and children were encouraged to put themselves to the test at Via dei Fori Imperiali, within sight of the Colosseum, where there was a vortex launch station positioned. Following tradition with athletics events around the world, the Rome meeting has its own mascot – a huge red cat called Romeo. Romeo has also been helping market the event in the run-up, and cheered on the runners during the Rome Appia Run at the end of April. Info Box The Golden Gala will take place on Thursday 6 June at Stadio Olimpico in Rome. Tickets range from €5-30 and are available for purchase on the TicketOne website. For more information visit www.sport.ticketone.it.
16 | June 2019 • Wanted in Rome
to do
Mon Tue Wed Thu 3 Try an aloe cocktail on the beach at the kiosk of Fregene hot spot La Baia.
ART MUSIC FOOD NATURE CINEMA FAMILY THEATRE
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The Swiss Institute Car afficianados should Visit the Anglo American book store near the collaborates with the best check out the Police Spanish Steps for a in Italian performance for Car museum in the Tor wide range of books in a show titled Solo Yolo at Marancia suburb. English. Villa Maraini.
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Indulge in a cone made with the finest ingredients at Torcè gelaterie.
Glam it up with girlfriends at DOM Hotel’s terrace overlooking the Gianicolo.
Pop into cool Gagosian Gallery to see the paintings of American artist Helen Frankenthaler.
The 25th edition of L’Isola del Cinema kicks off today on Tiber Island.
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Be entertained at Vinile Restaurant’s Sunday brunch and activities for kids in Ostiense.
Enjoy a date night at hip event VinòForum and try some of the 2,500 different wines.
Make the trek to S. Felice Circeo with its spiaggia libera for an unforgettable beach day.
Get yourself around town by renting a scooter from Cooltra. Receive 30 per cent discount with WiR card.
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Wander the banks of the Tiber for bars, music and street food with Lungo il Tevere.
Marvel at the stolen art recovered by Italy’s art police at the Quirinale Palace.
Grab a spot around the pool at family-friendly club Piscina delle Rose.
Don’t miss Kraftwerk 3D at Teatro Romano di Ostia Antica as part of Rock in Roma.
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Head to the Aventine hill this morning for a rare tour inside the Villa of the Knights of Malta.
Rome commemorates Festa della Repubblica with a military parade along Via dei Fori Imperiali.
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Hang out at the Beer Park Festival in Parco Nomentana with over 20 artisanal breweries to choose from.
Explore Rome’s Butterfly House, the Casa delle Farfalle, before it closes for the summer.
Be one of the lucky few to witness rose petals falling through the oculus of the Pantheon.
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If you like fried fish you won’t want to miss the Sagra del Pesce in Fiumicino.
Head on a road trip to Molise for the CVTà street art festival directed by Alice Pasquini.
Get tickets for opening night of the 16th Rome Chamber Music Festival at Palazzo Barberini.
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Try a yoga class at one of the beautiful RYOGA centres around Rome. Discount with WiR card.
Today is one of the four days per month that Rome’s pyramid opens to visitors but book in advance.
The ancient flower festival returns to the town of Genzano outside Rome this weekend.
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Catch tonight’s reading at the International Festival of Literature in Basilica di Massenzio.
See boy band Take That perform at Auditorium Parco della Musica.
Be inspired by the Maria Lai retrospective at MAXXI.
Beaches TOP 10
BE ACHES N E A R RO M E For all you beach-lovers here is a selection of resorts within easy reach of Rome. Each one, ordered from north to south, offers either stabilimenti (private beaches with entrance fees and changing facilities and refreshments) or spiaggia libera (free beach with the option to rent a lounge chair and/or umbrella), and all have children’s facilities. We have indicated how to get there by public transport, as all these towns suffer from heavy traffic during the summer.
Sabaudia S. MARINELLA The northern-most beach on our list offers a small strip of white sandy beach with the choice of setting up camp at either the stabilimenti or spiaggia libera. There are two trains per hour leaving from Termini station for S. Marinella station and the journey takes about one hour. Popular with wind-surfers.
S. SEVERA Located about 50 km north of Rome and less than 10 km south of S. Marinella. Take one of the regular Civitavecchia trains from Rome and the beach is a ten-minute walk from the station. There are numerous stabilimenti, restaurants and spiaggia libera and it is also known for the Italia Surf Expo which takes place every July.
FREGENE A former chic hotspot of the 1960s and 1970s, Fregene boasts long stretches of sand with both stabilimenti and spiaggia libera. Along the coast there is also a wide selection of family-oriented restaurants and less expensive tavole calde. Rome’s club scene tends to flock to Fregene and nearby Ostia (see below) in the summer months. Although Fregene isn’t the easiest place to reach by public transport, Cotral buses depart from Rome’s Valle Aurelia metro stop (line A) and the journey takes about one hour.
OSTIA/CANCELLI Ostia and the Cancelli (gates) are along the coast nearest Rome. Ostia is loaded with often pricey and trendy stabilimenti, while the Cancelli offer free beaches equipped with restaurants and bathrooms. Public transport takes less than an hour and you can use the same metro/bus tickets for public transport in Rome. Take the 070 express bus from EUR, or the Roma-Lido train from Porta S. Paolo beside the Piramide metro station (line B). To reach the Cancelli get off at the last stop and take the 07 MARE bus until you reach the gates numbered 1, 2, 3 etc.
ANZIO/NETTUNO These beaches are only ten minutes apart and are easily reached from Rome. One train per hour leaves from Termini station, stopping first at Anzio and then at Nettuno. The journey takes 60-70 minutes and the beaches are about a 10-minute walk from the respective train stations.
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S. Marinella Anzio has the Blue Flag status given to beaches that meet the international quality standards for cleanliness both on the beach and in the water.
SABAUDIA Famous for its beauty and spaciousness, this stretch of beach is another Blue Flag area. Although predominantly spiaggia libera, there are a few stabilimenti to choose from. Cotral buses run from Rome’s Laurentina metro stop (line B) to Piazza Oberdan in Sabaudia. From here take the shuttle bus which runs up and down the local coastline. Sabaudia is also known for its Mussolini-era architecture.
S. FELICE CIRCEO Nearly 100 km south of Rome are the Blue Flag beaches and crystal clear waters of Circeo. Stabilimenti abound but look for the spiaggia libera nearest the port: it definitely merits the mini-trek. Cotral buses leave for Circeo from the Laurentina metro station in Rome. Get off at the last stop and walk for ten minutes until you reach the beach.
TERRACINA Located just 10 km south of Circeo. From Termini station take the hourly regional train for Naples and get off at Monte S. Biagio. From there, take the bus for about 20 minutes until you reach the beach. Terracina has as many spiagge libere as stabilimenti and both are well-kept and clean, making it a popular destination for families.
SPERLONGA The stabilimenti dominate this gorgeous getaway with picturesque views and Blue Flag status, leaving only narrow strips for the spiaggia libera. Take the regional train headed to Naples from Termini station and get off at Fondi-Sperlonga. Once there, take the Piazzoli bus for 20 minutes to Sperlonga, alternatively take a private taxi but be warned they are far more expensive than the €1.50 bus ticket.
GAETA This Blue Flag area has a quaint mediaeval town to explore and clean beaches. From Termini station take one of the frequent trains headed towards Naples, get off at Formia and take the bus for another 25 minutes until you reach Gaeta. For more information about transportation consult the Cotral and Trenitalia websites www.cotralspa.it, www.trenitalia.it.
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LAGO DI ALBANO This volcanic crater lake presents visitors with beautiful views of its clear water and surrounding forests. The picturesque towns along the shores serve as popular summer resort areas for Romans, including Castel Gandolfo, home to the summer papal palace whose gardens were recently opened to the public. On the other side of the lake is Palazzolo, a villa bought by Rome’s Venerable English College in 1920 and now open to guests. The towns surrounding the lake are known for their restaurants, shops and fruit farms. Swimming, fishing and boating are among the favourite activities for visitors, and the lake’s beach is located on the western shore. A simple 45-minute train ride from Termini, visitors can reach Lago Albano by taking the FL4 train towards Albano Laziale and getting off at the Castel Gandolfo stop.
around rome
LAGO DI BOLSENA Located on the site of the Vulsini volcano, dormant since about 100 BC, this crater lake has two islands and is surrounded by rolling hills and vegetation. The area around Montefisascone on the southeast shore of the lake is famous for its Est! Est!! Est!!! wine. The town of Bolsena in the northeast is a popular tourist resort in summer and it is here that the famous so-called Eucharistic Miracle took place in 1263 when a Bohemian priest is said to have seen blood coming from the host that he had just consecrated at Mass. Capodimonte on the southwest of the lake is also worth a visit. The lakeside area provides activities for sports and nature enthusiasts all year round. The best way to reach Lago di Bolsena from Rome is by car, as buses to Bolsena from Termini Station are infrequent.
LAGO DI NEMI Lago di Nemi is a small and unique volcanic lake where divers in the 19th century discovered two large ships built for the notorious Roman emperor Caligula at the bottom of the lake, filled withbottom of the lake, filled with artworks and treasures. Replicas of the ships along with other artefacts are on display at the nearby Museum of Roman Ships. Travellers can also visit the natural caves around the lake, which were a favourite haunt of 19th-century foreign artists such as Turner. Nemi is associated with the cult of the Roman goddess Diana, and, for the last 80 years, an annual strawberry festival. Visitors can reach the lake by taking the SS7 Appia southbound as far as Genzano, and then following signs for Nemi.
LAGO DI BRACCIANO Just north-west of Rome along the Via Cassia, Lake Bracciano is one of the most easily accessible lakes for Romans. The ban on motor boats (except for a little ferry) means it remains an ideal spot for swimming, sailing and canoeing. The Lega Navale operates a dinghy sailing school in Anguillara. Churches and historic sites are located in the three small towns around the lake: Bracciano, Trevignano and Anguillara. There are also places for camping and horse riding tours by the lake, which is just an hour on the Viterbo train line from Rome’s Ostiense station. The lake is overlooked by the 15th-century Orsini-Odescalchi castle in Bracciano, often chosen as the venue for jet-set weddings, and there is also an air force museum at nearby Vigna di Valle.
LAGO DI VICO Formed by the volcanic activity of Mount Venus, Lago di Vico offers a unique geological backdrop set amid lush woodland and hills. The surrounding nature reserve is a haven for wildlife, but what is most characteristic of the area are the hazel and chestnut plantations. Lakeside campsites and hotels offer swimming, sailing and horse riding. The two towns worth a visit are Ronciglione and Caprarola with its magnificent and recently restored Villa Farnese. Lago di Vico is a 90-minute drive from Rome taking the SS2 Cassia, and turning north at Sutri.
LAGO DI MARTIGNANO This tiny volcanic lake just to the east of Lake Bracciano offers clean water and beaches with scenic views of the surrounding meadows and wildlife. Lago di Martignano is known for its outdoor activities such as horse riding, hiking, mountain biking and swimming. Umbrellas, loungers and luggage storage are available to rent along with canoes, sailboats and windsurfing equipment. It is also known for the hot sulphurous springs surrounding the lake. Arriving at Lago di Martignano by car is the easiest option. Reaching the lake by public transport involves taking the FM3 train to Cesano and opting for either a local bus or taxi.
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Wanted in Rome • april 2017 | 4
ROME'S MAJOR
MUSEUMS VATICAN MUSEUMS Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, mv.vatican.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.
Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums
Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.
STATE MUSEUMS Baths of Diocletian
Crypta Balbi
Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.
Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia
Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed. Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, www.gnam.beniculturali.it. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.
MAXXI
Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museumof 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.
Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.
Palazzo Corsini
Borghese Museum
Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale
Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.
Castel S. Angelo Museum
Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.
Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine
Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.
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Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.galleriaborghese.it/corsini/en. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed. Via Merulana 248, tel. 0646974832, www.museorientale.it. Interesting national collection of oriental art with some special exhibitions from its own collection and special loans. Tues, Wed, and Fri. 09.00-14.00. Thurs, Sat, Sun. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian on Sun (11.00 and 17.00).
Palazzo Altemps
Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.
Palazzo Barberini
Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.galleriabarberini. beniculturali.it. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.
Palazzo Massimo alle Terme
Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings
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26 | June 2019 • Wanted in Rome
mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.
Villa Farnesina
Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.
CITY MUSEUMS Centrale Montemartini
Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, en.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.
Capitoline Museums
Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, en.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun.
Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna
Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.
MACRO
Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.en.museomacro.org. The city’s collection of contemporary art, plus temporary exhibition space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed. Also MACRO Testaccio, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.
Museo Barracco
Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.
Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi
Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.
Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets
Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.
Museo Canonica
Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).
Museo Napoleonico
Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.
PRIVATE MUSEUMS Casa di Goethe
Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.
Chiostro Del Bramante
Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.
Doria Pamphilj Gallery
Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.
Galleria Colonna
Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.
Giorgio de Chirico House Museum
Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking.
Keats-Shelley House
Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking.
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ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY
ART GALLERIES
1/9 Unosunove
1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.
A.A.M. Architettura
Fondazione Pastifico Cerere
This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pastificiocerere.com.
Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ffmaam.it.
Fondazione Memmo
Associazione Culturale
Franz Paludetto
Dorothy Circus Gallery
Frutta
Ex Elettrofonica
Gagosian Gallery
Valentina Moncada Gallery holds exhibitions of international artists who are active in the international scene today. Via Margutta 54, tel. 063207956, www.valentinamoncada.com. Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com. This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.
Federica Schiavo Gallery
Hosts large solo and group shows of well-known contemporary artists. Piazza di Montevecchio 16, tel. 0645432028, www.federicaschiavo.com.
Fondazione Giuliani per l’Arte Contemporanea
The Giuliani Foundation for Contemporary Art is a private non-profit foundation that produces three contemporary art exhibitions each year. Via Gustavo Bianchi 1, tel. 0657301091, www.fondazionegiuliani.org.
Fondazione Volume!
The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.
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Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www. fondazionememmo.it. Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com. This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via Giovanni Pascoli 21, tel. 06 68210988, www.fruttagallery.com. The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.
Galleria Frammenti D’Arte
Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.
Galleria Lorcan O’Neill
High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.
Galleria Marie-Laure Fleisch
This contemporary art space is dedicated to exhibiting works on paper. Via di Pallacorda 15, tel. 0668891936, www.galleriamlf.com.
Galleria della Tartaruga
Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.
Galleria Il Segno
Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italian and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.
Galleria Mucciaccia
Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.
Giacomo Guidi Arte contemporanea
Montoro 12
Gallery promoting work by contemporary Italian and international artists. Via di Montoro 12, tel. 0668308500, www.m12gallery.com.
Nomas Foundation
Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.
This contemporary art gallery presents exhibitions from a diverse group of Italian and foreign artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Corso V. Emanuele II 282-284, tel. 0668801038, www.giacomoguidi.it.
Operativa Arte Contemporanea
Galleria Varsi
Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 339 / 7254235, 366 / 3988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.
A small but dynamic gallery near Campo de’ Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di S. Salvatore in Campo 51, tel. 0668309410, www.galleriavarsi.it.
Il Ponte Contemporanea
Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via di Panico 5559, tel. 0668801351, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.
La Nuova Pesa
Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.
MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea
Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.
Magazzino d’Arte Moderna
Contemporary art galley that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.
Monitor
This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, tel. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.
Monserrato Arte ‘900
This gallery in the Campo de’ Fiori area represents a range of contemporary Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 14, tel. 348/2833034.
A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.
Pian de Giullari
Plus Arte Puls
Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 335 / 7010795, www.plusartepuls.com.
RvB ARTS
Rome-based gallery specialising in affordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www.rvbarts.com.
Sala 1
This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.
S.T. Foto libreria galleria
Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.
Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri
The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.
Wanted in Rome • June 2019 | 29
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WHAT’S ON
Bird Cage, A Temporary Shelter, a site-specific installation by Zhang Enli at Galleria Borghese. See page 34. Wanted in Rome • June 2019 | 31
FESTIVALS
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EXHIBITIONS
EXHIBITIONS TEX: 70 ANNI DI UN MITO 24 May-14 July
Maria Lai at MAXXI. Tenendo per mano il sole, detail, 1983. Ph. Francesco Casu, courtesy Archivio Maria Lai.
On the centerary of the artist’s birth, MAXXI devotes a major exhibition to Maria Lai (1919-2013), considered one of the more individual figures in Italian contemporary art. The exhibition is described by curators Bartolomeo Pietromarchi and Luigia Lonardelli as a “fitting tribute to an artist who created, ahead of the latest research into relational art, a language combining sensibility, local traditions and global codes.” The show comprises more than 100 works spanning from the early 1960s through to her final years, and includes sewn books, sculptures, public works and her celebrated “looms”. The show’s title, Tenendo per mano il sole, is a quotation from and tribute to an early “sewn fable” created by the artist who represented Italy at the 57th Venice Biennale in 2017. MAXXI, Via Guido Reni 4A, www.maxxi.art.
ROMA: MUSA MIA FROM 16 JUNE
The Rome-based Australian painter Kevin Murray stages an exhibition of sketches, watercolours, etchings
IABO: I WANT TO BE AN ARTIST 11 May-28 June
MARIA LAI. HOLDING THE SUN BY THE HAND 19 June-12 Jan
The Mattatoio in Testaccio celebrates the 70th anniversary of the Italian comic series Tex with an exhibition of drawings, photographs and archive material. Created by writer Gian Luigi Bonelli and illustrator Aurelio Galleppini, the series follows the fictional Western-style ranger Tex Willer and was first published in 1948. The comic is among the most popular in Italy and also has a fan base in Brazil, Finland, Norway, Greece, Turkey, Croatia, France, Serbia, Israel and Spain. Mattatoio, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 0639967500, www.mattatoioroma.it.
and oils. Murray says his paintings are inspired by Rome’s monuments, food, people and countryside, describing Rome as the “muse for his visual expression.” The artist, whose style is grounded in the ideals of the Scuola Romana movement, has lived in Rome since 1960. The exhibition can be visited on Sunday afternoons from 17.0020.00. For visiting information contact dellascala4@gmail.com.
HIKARI SHIMODA & MILLO
Neapolitan artist IABO presents an exhibition which takes as his controversial starting point the desire of a young Adolf Hitler to become a professional artist. IABO created a series of pop-art style portraits, capturing the essence and style, as well as the profiles, of artists such as Basquiat, Haring, Picasso, Van Gogh and Warhol. Rosso20sette, Via del Sudario 39, tel. 0664761113, www.rosso27.com.
Hikari Shimonda at Dorothy Circus Gallery. Children of This Planet#29.
14 June-13 July
The Dorothy Circus Gallery presents a double exhibition of work by Japanese painter Hikari Shimoda and Italian street artist MILLO at its galleries in Rome and London. Each artist will present a brand new collection of 10 to 12 works on canvas of various formats, described as “displaying in their unique contemporary visual style the stories, expectations and fragility of timeless generations and that of today’s teenagers.” Dorothy Circus Gallery, Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.it. Wanted in Rome • June 2019 | 33
34 | June 2019 • Wanted in Rome
IABO at Rosso20sette. Vincent van Gogh.
L’ARTE DI SALVARE L’ARTE: FRAMMENTI DI STORIA D’ITALIA 5 May-14 July
Under the title The art of saving art. Fragments of Italian history, an exhibition at the Quirinale Palace celebrates the 50th anniversary of the founding of the Carabinieri’s specialised unit for the protection of cultural heritage. The exhibition includes some of the most significant cultural assets recovered by the art police in half a century of investigative work, as well as pieces returned to Italy thanks to diplomatic efforts in collaboration with the culture ministry. Visitors can admire objects that have been stolen from churches, museums, archaeological areas, libraries and archives, and learn about the story behind their recovery. The exhibition also includes treasures placed in safety following the 2016 earthquakes in central Italy. Among the masterpieces on display are the Madonna di Senigallia by Piero della Francesca, the Crater of Euphronios, Portrait of a Gardener by Van Gogh, Le Cabanon de Jourdan by Paul Cézanne, the Castellani jewels, and the Holy Family with a Saint by Andrea Mantegna. Palazzo del Quirinale, Piazza del Quirinale, www.palazzo.quirinale.it.
artist. On display are 34 works retracing LaChapelle’s career, from his early pictures created in Los Angeles to his more recent works featuring unexpected landscapes, dreamland figures and mythological landscapes. The exhibition includes his two big panels from the series Aristocracy (2014), the monumental Showtime at the Apocalypse (2013), the Kardashian family’s Christmas picture, and Rape of Africa (2009), a provocative work against the violence suffered by the African continent, with Naomi Campbell as the African Venus. Galleria Mucciaccia, Largo della Fontanella di Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.
FOTOGRAFI A ROMA 17 April-16 June
The Museo di Roma at Palazzo Braschi displays 100 portraits of the capital created by leading international photographers commissioned as part of a project organised by the city. The photographs now form part of the permanent collection
of the Photographic Archive of the Museum of Rome. Palazzo Braschi, Piazza di S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, www.museodiroma.it.
PAOLO DI PAOLO: MONDO PERDUTO 17 April-23 June
MAXXI presents the photographs of Paolo Di Paolo in an exhibition it describes as a “delicate, rigorous and wise recount” of an Italy emerging from the ashes of world war two. Di Paolo published more than 500 photographs in the former Italian weekly news magazine Il Mondo in the 1950s and 1960s, chronicling figures from the worlds of art, culture, fashion and cinema as well as ordinary people. Di Paolo’s photographs, rediscovered after over 50 years of neglect, include images of Pier Paolo Pasolini at Monte dei Cocci in Rome, Tennesse Williams with his dog, Anna Magnani with her son at Circeo, and Sofia Loren joking with Marcello Mastroianni at Cinecittà studios. MAXXI, Via Guido Reni 4A, www.maxxi.art.
L’arte di salvare l’arte. Frammenti di storia d’Italia at Palazzo del Quirinale. Madonna of Senigallia by Piero della Francesca.
DAVID LACHAPELLE 18 April-18 June
Rome’s Galleria Mucciaccia presents a major photographic retrospective dedicated to David LaChapelle, the American fine-art photographer, film director and Wanted in Rome • June 2019 | 35
CLAUDIO IMPERATORE 6 April-27 Oct
The Ara Pacis museum holds a major exhibition dedicated to Claudius, one of the most controversial Roman emperors, who ruled from AD 41 to 54. Featuring historical and archaeological artefacts, the exhibition highlights the life and reign of Claudius, from his birth in Lyon in 10 BC until his death in Rome in 54 AD. The exhibition places a particular focus on the emperor’s personality, his political and administrative work, his ties to Augustus and his brother Germanicus, as well as his tragic relationship with his wives Messalina and Agrippina. Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta, tel. 060608, www.arapacis.it.
BIRD CAGE, A TEMPORARY SHELTER 9 April-7 July
As part of its Contemporary Commissions programme, Galleria Borghese presents a monumental site-specific installation by Zhang Enli. The Chinese artist has created four symbolic structures, displayed in various spaces around the museum, reflecting upon the links between architecture and art, in particular on the special relationship between Galleria Borghese and its adjacent aviary and secret garden. Piazzale Scipione Borghese, tel. 0632810, www.galleriaborghese. beniculturali.it.
David LaChapelle at La Galleria Mucciaccia. Rape of Africa.
ELISABETTA CATALANO 3 April-22 Dec
The MAXXI pays homage to Elisabetta Catalano (1944-2015), a Roman fine-art photographer who specialised in portraits. The exhibition features slides, photos and vintage prints, investigating in particular the relationship between Catalano’s photography and performance art, presenting portraits of artists such as Joseph Beuys, Fabio Mauri, Vettor Pisani and Cesare Tacchi during the preparatory phases of the performative process. Museo nazionale delle arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4A, www.maxxi.art.
PAOLA PIVI. WORLD RECORD 3 April-8 Sept
MAXXI showcases the work of the award-winning Italian multimedia artist Paola Pivi whose oeuvre includes performance, sculpture and large-scale installations. She is also known for her photographic representations of animals in performative happenings in sometimes ironic and surprising contexts. Museo nazionale delle arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4A, www.maxxi.art.
ROMA NELLA CAMERA OSCURA 27 March-22 Sept
Palazzo Braschi hosts an exhibition comprising photographs of Rome spanning from the birth of the medium in the mid-19th century
Bird Cage, a temporary shelter by Zhang Enli at Galleria Borghese. Photo by t-space studio, courtesy of Zhang Enli, MIBAC-Galleria Borghese and Arthub.
36 | June 2019 • Wanted in Rome
to the present day. The earliest images on display illustrate the topographical, historical and social aspects that characterised the final years of papal Rome as well as the emergence of the profession of the photgrapher and the beginning of the photograph’s role as a souvenir for tourists and pilgrims. Museo di Roma, Piazza S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, www.museodiroma.it.
MORTALI IMMORTALI: TESORI DEL SICHUAN NELL’ANTICA CINA 26 March-18 Oct
The Markets of Trajan presents an exhibition showcasing treasures belonging to the Shu people, an ancient civilisation in what is now the Sichuan province in southwest China. On display are finds in bronze, gold, jade and terracotta, dating from the Bronze Age to the Han period (second century AD), on loan from important Chinese museums. Mercati di Traiano, Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, www.mercatiditraiano.it.
LEONARDO DA VINCI ST JEROME IN THE WILDERNESS 22 March-22 June
The Vatican displays St Jerome in the Wilderness, an unfinished painting by Leonardo da Vinci, on the 500th anniversary of the death of the Renaissance genius. Dating from around 1480, the painting is on display at a free exhibition at the Braccio di Carlo Magno in St Peter’s square. The painting depicts St Jerome kneeling in a rocky landscape in the Syrian desert where he lived the life of a hermit in the fourth
century. Although little is known about the work and its commission, the Vatican Museums director Barbara Jatta says “there has never been any doubt about the signature and critics are all in agreement”. The painting can be seen Mon, Tues, Thurs, Fri, Sat from 10.00-18.00 (last entry 17.30). Wed 13.30-18.00 (last entry 17.30). Sun closed.
GIACOMO BALLA 21 March-17 June
An exhibition of paintings by Giacomo Balla, considered Italy’s foremost exponent of Futurism, is hosted at Palazzo Merulana, Rome’s newest art museum. Titled From Abstract Futurism to Iconic Futurism, the show examines Balla’s artistic journey, taking as its starting point the Portrait of Primo Carnera (1933), held in the permanent collection of Palazzo Merulana. Painted on both sides, on one side is represented a typically Futurist subject, Vaprofumo, of 1926. A few years later, in 1933, the artist painted Carnera, in a notably different style, on the other side. Wed-Sun 10.0020.00. Palazzo Merulana, Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it.
ROBERT MAPPLETHORPE: L’OBIETTIVO SENSIBILE 15 March-30 June
Galleria Corsini showcases the work of celebrated American photographer Robert Mapplethorpe (1946-1999) on the 30th anniversary of his death. The show comprises 45 photographs by Mapplethorpe who courted much controversy in the US over the homoerotic nature of his work. The Rome exhibition focuses on some of the artist’s less controversial themes such as still lifes, landscapes,
Roma nella camera oscura at Palazzo Braschi. Sposi nel cortile di palazzo dei Conservatori (1986) by Gianni Berengo Gardin.
classical statues and Renaissance composition. Galleria Corsini, Via della Lungara 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org.
LEONARDO DA VINCI: LA SCIENZA PRIMA DELLA SCIENZA 13 March-28 July
The Scuderie del Quirinale holds a major exhibition devoted to Renaissance genius Leonardo da Vinci on the 500th anniversary of his death. Entitled La scienza prima della scienza, the exhibition includes works that offer insights into da Vinci’s technical and scientific advances within the cultural context of his era. The exhibition showcases his designs for flying machines, his use of perspective, his studies for an ideal city, and his masterful mix of classical tradition and scientific innovation. Scuderie del Quirinale, Via XXIV Maggio 16, tel. 0292897722, www. scuderiequirinale.it. Paola Pivi: World Record at MAXXI.
DONNE: CORPO E IMMAGINE TRA SIMBOLO E RIVOLUZIONE 24 Jan-13 Oct
Rome’s municipal modern art gallery highlights the evolution of the female image in art from the late 19th century to the present day. The 100 works on display – including paintings, sculpture, photographs and video – reveal how women have been portrayed variously as objects of admiration and mystery or as angels and temptresses, until artists caught up with a more modern age in the 1960s. Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna, Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www. galleriaartemodernaroma.it.
DREAM: L’ARTE INCONTRA I SOGNI 29 Sept-25 Aug
The Chiostro del Bramante hosts a site-specific exhibition of dreamthemed art works, guiding viewers on a “physical, surreal, mental and dreamlike journey”, and completing the trilogy of shows begun with Love in 2016 and Enjoy last year. The international artists include major names such as Anselm Kiefer, Anish Kapoor, Bill Viola and Luigi Ontani. Chiostro del Bramante, Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www. chiostrodelbramante.it. See other exhibitions on our website www.wantedinrome.com. Wanted in Rome • June 2019 | 37
Every God by Elizabeth Bick at the Pantheon on 21 June.
ART NEWS NEW CULTURAL HERITAGE SUPERINTENDENT IN ROME EVERY GOD IN THE PANTHEON Art historian Maria Vittoria Marini Clarelli has become the first woman to hold the position of Rome's superintendent of cultural heritage, succeeding Claudio Parisi Presicce who has been appointed director of the Capitoline Museums. Describing her assignment as a "beautiful challenge", Marini Clarelli spoke of her desire to make the city's cultural heritage more accessible to the public, in particular continuing to open up the Palatine Hill, a project spearheaded by her predecessor. Other central themes include a maintenance plan for the city's monuments, controlling tourist flows and "demolishing the crystal wall" between state and municipal administrations in the management of Rome's cultural heritage.
STREET ART IN MOLISE VILLAGE
The fourth edition of CVTĂ Street Fest takes place in Civitacampomara, a remote village set deep in the Campobasso countryside in the Molise region, about 180 km east of Rome, from 13-16 June. The festival comprises four days of mural painting, street art tours, live music, workshops and tasting of local specialities, and once again its artistic director is the celebrated Roman street artist Alice Pasquini. The festival is designed to breathe new life into the largely abandoned village whose 400 mainly elderly residents embrace the thousands of visitors that arrive each June. This year's guest artists are Milu Correch from Argentina; Martin Whatson from Norway; Add Fuel from Portugal; Jan Vormann from Germany; and the Italian artist collective from Studio Aira. For full details see website, www.cvtastreetfest.it.
38 | June 2019 • Wanted in Rome
For the last five years the New York-based photographer Elizabeth Bick has travelled to the Pantheon on 21 June, the longest day of the year, to photograph the tourists visiting the ancient monument. Bick depicts her subjects in theatrical poses, making dramatic use of chiaroscuro, as the Pantheon's visitors gaze upwards in awe at the oculus. Her photographs are part of a decade-long project titled Every God, which now enters its sixth year and began when Bick was a resident artist at the American Academy in Rome in 2014. Bick chose the summer solstice to take advantage of the light falling on the visitors of diverse ages, cultures, races and genders, as well as allowing her to document "our relationship to technology as it rapidly changes." See www.erbick.com.
PALAZZO BARBERINI REARRANGES COLLECTION
Palazzo Barberini, home to Italy's national gallery of ancient art, has rearranged its collection in the 10 rooms which opened to the public in the palace's southern wing last summer, when the Italian military's officers club vacated the space after decades of use. The 10 restored rooms on the first floor were used initially to display portraits and self-portraits from the Palazzo Barberini collection alongside contemporary works from MAXXI. The 750sqm-exhibition space is now a permanent part of the museum itinerary, displaying 78 works from its collection, ranging from Neapolitan 17th-century paintings to 18th-century masterpieces. Andy Devane
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CLASSICAL
Antonio Pappano and Joyce DiDonato at a recital at the Wigmore Hall in London in 2014. Photo Simon Jay Price.
ROME
Most of the music academy seasons are over and concerts now move outside to the festivals around Italy and in Rome.
di Saint-Denis in the basilica of St Denis in Paris, the final resting place of the kings of France. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.
ACCADEMIA FILARMONICA ROMANA
GUSTAVO DUDAMEL BEETHOVEN
In July there will be the annual concerts and recitals in the lovely gardens at the academy’s headquarters on Via Flaminia 118, www.filarmonicaromana.org.
ACCADEMIA S. CECILIA JOYCE DIDONATO ANTONIO PAPPANO 4-6 June
Mezzo-soprano Joyce DiDonato sings music by Haydn (Te Deum), Rossini (Giovanna D’Arco) and Brahms (Serenata) with the orchestra and chorus of S. Cecilia conducted by Antonio Pappano. She is also singing with the S. Cecilia orchestra and chorus on the 7 June at the festival
40 | June 2019 • Wanted in Rome
15-17 June
Gustavo Dudamel conducts the S. Cecilia orchestra in an all-Beethoven programme of Egmont and symphonies no 4 and 7. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.
ROME CHAMBER MUSIC FESTIVAL 13-17 June
This chamber music festival for young talented musicians returns to Palazzo Barberini (Salone da Pietro Cortona) with its artistic director and founder Robert McDuffie. This year the festival is held in conjunction with De Simone and Partners Young Artist programme which was founded 10 years ago. Musicians who have participated
in the project over the past decade have been invited to perform in Rome this year. The programme features Copeland’s Appalachian Spring, Tchaikovsky’s Souvenir de Florence and Mendelssohn’s Octet, composed when Mendelssohn was only 16. Rehearsals from 11-17 June are open to the public. The concert on 16 June is by invitation only and on 17 June the concert will be available on the festival website, www.romechamberfestival.org.
OTHER VENUES Some of Rome’s English speaking churches, such as St Paul’s within the Walls, All Saints’ Anglican church, Ponte S. Angelo Methodist church and the Oratorio Caravita also have concerts and opera recitals. S. Agnese in Agone in Piazza Navona and Palazzo Doria Pamphilj are two other places that often offer concerts and opera recitals (sometimes with dinner) during the summer. See www.romaoperaomnia.com.
ROCK, POP, JAZz
Joan As Police Woman at Monk on 8 June.
JOAN AS POLICE WOMAN
GARBAGE
RUFUS WAINWRIGHT
Joan As Police Woman performs at Rome’s Monk club on 8 June to promote her retrospective album Joanthology. The American musician, singer-songwriter and producer is known for her indie rock sound, in songs such as Holy City, Eternal Flame and The Magic. Monk - Circolo Arci, Via Giuseppe Mirri 35, tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it.
American alternative rock band Garbage is set to perform at this year’s world music festival, Roma Incontra il Mondo, at Villa Ada in Rome on 8 July. Formed in 1994, Garbage is fronted by Scottish singer Shirley Manson and to date has sold more than 17 million albums worldwide. The group achieved considerable international success in the mid-1990s with hit singles such as Stupid Girl and Only Happy When It Rains. The Villa Ada programme was not available at the time of going to press. For tickets see TicketOne website, www.ticketone.it. Villa Ada Festival, Via Salaria 267.
Rufus Wainwright performs as part of the Roma Summer Fest in the Cavea arena of the Auditorium Parco della Musica on 28 July. The AmericanCanadian singer-songwriter and composer has recorded seven studio albums of original music, playing piano and guitar, often switching between the two instruments when performing live. From a prominent musical family, Wainwright shot to fame in 1998 with his self-titled debut album which Rolling Stone magazine rated as one of the best albums that year. See Festivals page 42. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via Pietro de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.
8 June
MARK KNOPFLER 20-21 July
Mark Knopfler will perform two outdoor concerts at the Baths of Caracalla as part of the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma summer programme, on 20 and 21 July. The British guitarist and singer-songwriter is best known as the frontman and driving force behind the rock band Dire Straits, which he co-founded in 1977. When the group disbanded in 1995, Knopfler embarked on a solo career. Knopfler and Dire Straits have sold in excess of 120 million albums to date. For tickets see opera house website, www.operaroma.it.
8 July
28 July
Garbage perform at Villa Ada on 8 July.
Wanted in Rome • June 2019 | 41
ddance oopera p pop r ock r ance
Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it
Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano www.teatrovascello.it 17, www.teatroolimpico.it
Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it
pera
Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it
op
ock
Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.
Concert venues ranging from major pop and Alexanderplatz, 9, tel. 0683775604 rock groups to Via jazzOstia and acoustic gigs. www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org Angelo Mai Via Atlantico delle Terme di Atlantico, VialeAltrove, dell’Oceano 271d, Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it
Atlantico, Viale Atlantico Auditorium Parcodell’Oceano della Musica, Viale 271d, P. de tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com Auditorium della Viale de Casa del Jazz, Parco Viale di PortaMusica, Ardeatina 55,P.tel. Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com 06704731, www.casajazz.it
t
Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it
heatre heatre
Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net www.teatrobelli.it Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobelli.it www.teatrobrancaccio.it Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatrobrancaccio.it www.teatroghione.it Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. www.teatroghione.it 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net
Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com Lanificio 159,ViaVia di Pietralata 159, Live Alcazar, Cardinale Merry del Valtel. 14, 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com Live Alcazar, Merry del 35, Val 14, Monk Club, Via ViaCardinale Giuseppe Mirri tel. tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com 0664850987, www.monkroma.it Monk Club, ViaPiazzale Giuseppe Mirri 35,1, tel. PalaLottomatica, dello Sport tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it
PalaLottomatica, Piazzale Sport 1, tel. Rock in Roma, Via Appiadello Nuova 1245, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com
Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it www.teatrosangenesio.it Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsiwww.teatrosangenesio.it stina.it Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.ilsistina.it www.teatrovascello.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Vittoria,www.teatrovascello.it Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. tel. 065898031, 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it 4951 | Jan 2019 • Wanted in Rome | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome
Giuliano Peparini’s version of Romeo and Juliet at the Baths of Caracalla.
DANCE
ROME
MILAN
TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA
TEATRO ALLA SCALA
ROMEO E GIULIETTA BY PROKOFIEV
LA BELLA ADDORMENTATA NEL BOSCO 26 June-9 July
The Nureyev choreography of Tchaikovsky’s classical Russian ballet, with stars Polina Semionova (26 and 29 June) and Svetlana Zakharova (5 and 9 July) alternating in the lead role. Nureyev’s version, based on Petipa’s original choreography, was first performed at La Scala in 1966 but has not been staged at the Milan theatre for 12 years. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.
TOKYO DANCE COMPANY 26 June
The Toyko Dance company programme includes La Bayadere, Tam-Tam et Percussion with choreography by Felix Blaska and Maurice Bejart’s choreography of 30 July-12 Aug The Teatro dell’Opera di Roma Stravinsky’s Le Sacre du Printemps. moves to the Baths of Caracalla for Teatro dell’Opera, Baths of Caracalla, its summer season with Prokofiev’s www.operaroma.it. Romeo and Juliet, choreography by Giuliano Peparini, one-time assistant to Roland Petit and artistic director 9-11 July behind the Italian popular television No summer season at the Baths of programme Amici di Maria De Filippi Caracalla would be quite the same on Canale 5. The work’s full title without American Ballet Theatre Romeo and Giulietta – Ama e cambia star Roberto Bolle and his invited il Mondo and it was first performed guests. Teatro dell’Opera, Baths of in Verona and then in Rome in 2013 Caracalla, www.operaroma.it. and was part of last year’s Caracalla festival. Teatro dell’Opera, Baths of For more dance events see section on Caracalla, www.operaroma.it. Festivals in Italy on page 44.
ROBERTO BOLLE AND FRIENDS
MOVIMENTO LIBERO
The Oriente and Occidente festival along with Centro Internazionale della Danza is in Matera while the city is the European Capital of Culture this year. Together with the Fondazione for Matera and the British Council it presents Movimento Libero, a festival to explore the accessibility of those with different abilities to art and culture with performances, roundtable discussions and workshops. Accessibility for the disabled means not only overcoming physical barriers that make it difficult to gain access to certain locations, but also providing opportunities to professions in the arts. The project Europe Beyond Access, which is promoted by the Onassis Centre, Kampnagel and Holland Dance festival, is working to break down barriers between the arts and disability across Europe, particularly in theatre and dance. www.disabilityartsinternational.org/creative-europe-announcement. Wanted in Rome • June 2019 | 43
Isola del Cinema celebrates 25 years.
FESTIVALS INTERNATIONAL LITERATURE FESTIVAL 4-28 June
The 2019 edition of Letterature – Festival Internazionale di Roma returns to the Basilica di Massenzio in the Roman Forum, taking place over eight evenings from 4-28 June. The popular annual initiative celebrates the written word with a host of internationally acclaimed authors who are invited to write a text inspired by a chosen theme, which this year is Il Domani dei Classici, composed especially for the event. This year’s literature festival features a line-up of awardwinning Italian and international authors who will read from their work, supported by actors and live music. The international aspect of the programme includes Anthony Cartwright from the UK, Alicia Giménez Bartlett from Spain, Mircea Cărtărescu from Romania, Filippe Forest from France, and Roberto Saviano from Italy. The US is particularly well represented with writers including Scott Spencer, Rachel Kushner, Adam Gopnik, Joe Lansdale, Tayari Jones, Lewis Shiner, Chris Offutt and Elaine Castillo. Novelties this year include a concert by the Accademia di S. Cecilia, a show organised by the Piazza Vittorio Orchestra, and outdoor film screenings in collaboration with the Casa del Cinema in Villa Borghese. Entry is free but tickets must be picked up before the readings begin, from 20.00, at a designated booth
44 | June 2019 • Wanted in Rome
on Via dei Fori Imperiali. Tickets are provided on a first-come, firstserved basis, and readings take place at 21.00, with access to the Basilica from 20.30. For details see website, www.festivaldelleletterature.it.
ISOLA DEL CINEMA 13 June-1 Sept
Celebrating 25 years, this multifaceted cinema event lights up the Isola Tiberina on the river Tiber each evening over the summer. The 2019 edition of the festival includes 80 nights of screenings, encounters, masterclasses and discussions with important figures from the world of film, held under three sections – Innovation, Environment and Tourism. The festival’s programme comprises films by emerging directors, independent cinema, documentaries and major international productions, including cult classics and films screened in their original language versions. There are also parallel cultural events dedicated to music, literature, photography and poetry with cinematic connections. The festival’s world cinema section, Isola Mondo, features independent international movies, screened in collaboration with embassies and foreign cultural institutions. Novelties this year include virtual reality cinema and a special event in honour of the late film director Sergio Leone on the 90th anniversary of his birth. For full details see festival website, www. isoladelcinema.com.
ROCK IN ROMA 23 June-7 Sept
The 11th edition of Rock in Roma boasts more than 30 concerts on
the 2019 programme, with four separate venues: the Ippodromo delle Capannelle in the Ciampino area, the ancient Teatro Romano at Ostia Antica, the Cavea arena at the Auditorium Parco della Musica, and the Circus Maximus. The acts performing in June include Calcutta at the Capannelle (27 June), Kraftwerk with two concerts at the Roman theatre in Ostia Antica (27-28 June) and Capo Plaza at Capannelle (30 June). The July programme features Franco126 at Capannelle (2 July), Thirty Seconds to Mars at the Cavea in Auditorium Parco della Musica (3 July), Gemitaiz at the Capannelle (4 July), The Zen Circus at Capannelle (5 July), J-Ax + Articolo 31 at Capannelle (6 July), Haken at Capannelle (7 July), Skunk Anansie + special guest at Auditorium Parco della Musica (8 July), Negrita at Teatro Romano in Ostia Antica (9 July), Bad Bunny at Capannelle (11 July), Neurosis + Yob + special guest at Ostia Antica (11 July), Salmo at Capannelle (12 July), Marlene Kuntz at Ostia Antica (12 July), Ben Harper and the Innocent Criminals at Auditorium Parco della Musica (13 July), Carl Brave at Capannelle (13 July), Ozuna at Capannelle (14 July), Nick Mason’s Saucerful of Secrets at Auditorium Parco della Musica (16 July), Subsonica at Capannelle (17 July), Ketama126 + Speranza + Massimo Pericolo at Capannelle (18 July), Ex-Otago + Viito at Capannelle (19 July), The Blaze at Capannelle (23 July), Luchè at Capannelle (26 July), Loredana Bertè at Ostia Antica (27 July), Indjent Festival: Animals as Leaders at Capannelle (27 July). Rock in Roma has a break for August before ending on with Thegiornalisti at Circus Maximus (7 Sept). For full details including tickets see Rock in Roma website.
ROMA SUMMER FEST 23 June-2 Aug
Roma Summer Fest, the summer music programme of live rock, pop, jazz, world and classical concerts at the Auditorium Parco della Musica. This year’s diverse line-up features
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Skunk Anansie performs for Roma Summer Fest on 8 July.
Maneskin (23-24 June), Il Volo (26 June), Take That (29 June), Taranta Gitana (30 June), Tiromancino e l’Ensemble Symphony Orchestra (1 July), Thirty Seconds to Mars (3 July), Toto (4 July), Gazzelle (6 July), Skunk Anansie (8 July), Tears for Fears (9 July), The Cinematic Orchestra (10 July), Irama (11 July), Ben Harper & The Innocent Criminals (13 July), Diana Krall (14 July), Massimo Ranieri (15 July), Nick Mason’s Saucerful of Secrets the Heartbeat of Pink Floyd (16 July), Aurora (17 July), Bowland (19 July), Thom Yorke Tomorrow’s Modern Boxes (21 July), Juan de Marcos González Afro-Cuban All Stars (23 July), Angélique Kidjo (24 July), Rufus Wainwright (28 July), Fiorella Mannoia (29 July), Carmina Burana (30 July), Pink Floyd Legend (1 Aug), and Apparat (2 Aug). Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via Pietro de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.
FESTIVALS IN ITALY BRESCIA AND BERGAMO 15 April-10 June
The Brescia and Bergamo international piano festival, now in its 56th year, opens the festival
46 | June 2019 • Wanted in Rome
season in Italy. This year the theme is the music of Schumann and Brahms, under the heading Musica Velata. Schumann used the term to describe Brahms piano playing, saying that he made the piano sound like an orchestra, with sounds that were sometimes exultant, sometimes full of happiness, sometimes clouded or tinged with sadness. The festival music follows the friendship of the two composers, sometimes with evenings dedicated to Brahms or Schumann, sometimes to both and at other times with music by other composers such as Beethoven. Concerts that start in one city are then repeated in the other a few days later. Another theme of the festival is to mix famous pianists with those who are just beginning to make a career for themselves. www. festivalpianistico.it.
FLORENCE FESTIVAL DEL MAGGIO MUSICALE 5 May-26 June
The festival, which coincides with the 500th anniversary of the death of Leonardo da Vinci, is producing several operas this year. Mozart’s Marriage of Figaro is scheduled on 15, 17, 19 and 21 June. Puccini’s Madama Butterfly will be performed on 5, 9, 11 and 13 July. L’Elisir d’Amore by Donizetti, who wrote the comic opera in six weeks, is on 10, 12, 17, 19, 23, 25 July. Verdi’s La Traviata, always a favourite, is on 18, 20, 22, 24 and 26 July. The theme of the festival this year is Potere e Virtù, the virtues of power, rather than its vices. There are numerous symphonic concerts conducted by a powerful lineup of conductors, although most of them are concentrated in May. Zubin Metha is conducting on 2 June with Daniel Barenboim as soloist. The usual Messa di S. Giovanni is on 24 June and Daniele Gatti concludes the festival on 26 June conducting the Maggio Musicale orchestra and chorus. Soloists include Maurizio Baglini (4 June), Giancarlo Cardini marking
a year after the death of composer Daniele Lombardi (5 June), Grigory Sokolov (7 June), Jin Ju (14 June). All the dates, times and locations are on the Maggio Musicale Fiorentino website, www.maggiofiorentino.com.
SPOLETO SPOLETO FESTIVAL DEI DUE MONDI 28 June-14 July
PROPOSERINE MARY SHELLEY 28 and 30 June
The title of the festival this year is Ocean of Inspiration. There are only two performances of the main opera in the festival this year, which seems rather a shame because it is a new work by Italy’s composer Silvia Colasanti set to the verse drama by Mary Shelley which includes two lyric poems by her husband Percy Bysshe Shelley published in 1832. It is directed by Giorgio Ferrara, the festival’s artistic director, and the set designs are by Sandro Chia. The festival still attracts prestigious names in theatre such as Emma Dante with the play Esodo, Marisa Berenson with Berlin Kabarett, Lucinda Childs and Adriana Asti in the Ballade of Zerline by Hermann Broch and the continuing Young European theatre project now in its seventh year. In the dance section there are only two events, the Dutch National Ballet with Ode to the Master and My French Valentino by Valerie Lacaze with music by Anne Vagdanin about the life and early death of Rudolf Valentino. There are still the noontime concerts and the closing concert on 14 July is with the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma orchestra and chorus conducted by Daniele Gatti in Piazza del Duomo. The poster this year is by David LaChappelle (see also Exhibitions) which has also been included in his photographic service for the Washington Post magazine spring edition. All details of times and places are on the festival website, www.festivaldispoleto.com.
RAVENNA
5 June-16 July 1-10 Nov
The Ravenna festival comes back this year with the theme In alto mare aperto, which could hardly be more appropriate considering the times. It’s the festival’s 30th anniversary and it opens on 5 June with Riccardo Muti conducting his Orchestra Giovanile Luigi Cherubini with pianist Maurizio Pollini, performing music by Mendelssohn, Mozart and Rachmaninov. Muti and Pollini will be appearing together for the first time in 14 years. This year the final Roads of Friendship concert (9 July) conducted by Muti, which is usually in some conflicttorn part of the world, will be in Athens at the Odeon of Herodes Atticus on the Acropolis. The Alto Mare theme includes the Mediterranean trade and culture links between Greece and Rome, stretching back to ancient Greece and looking forwards to Europe today. The Young Artists for Dante come back again this year, leaving a tribute every day on the poet’s grave and there are vespers at S. Vital each evening. There is a large section dedicated to percussion concerts throughout June. The dance section includes Micha van Hoecke (8 June with Shine) the Martha Graham Dance company (17 June) and John Neumeier and the Hamburg Ballet (5-6 July). The concerts star Leonidas Kavakos (12 June), the Tallis Singers (16 June),
opera
the Labeque sisters (19 June), Avro Pärt’s Kanon Pokajanen sung by the Estonia Philharmonic Chamber Choir (30 June) and the Orchestre National de France (3 July) conducted by Emmanuel Krivine with Antoine Tamestit, viola, playing music by Brahms, Liszt and Berlioz (Harold en Italie symphony) to mark the 150th anniversary of the composer’s death. The three operas in the autumn are Bellini’s Norma (1-8 Nov) Verdi’s Aida (2-9 Nov) and Bizet’s Carmen (3-10 Nov). This year’s autumn opera trilogy follows the same format as other years with three opera staged consecutively at the Alighieri Theatre, as well as workshops and the use of modern technology. All details and booking are already on the easy-to-use website www.ravennafestival.org.
VERONA VERONA ARENA FESTIVAL 21 June to 7 Sept
This year the operas are Verdi’s La Traviata in a new Franco Zeffirelli production (21, 28 June, 11-30 Aug and 5 Sept); Verdi’s Aida with the 1913 set designs (22, 27 June, 5-28 July, 3-31 Aug, 3-7 Sept) conducted by Gianfranco Bosio; Verdi’s Il Trovatore (29 June, 2-26 July) directed by Zeffirelli; Bizet’s Carmen (6-27 July, 2-27 Aug, 4 Sept) directed by Hugo de Ana; Pacido Domingo’s 50th anniversary night
Festival del Maggio Musicale poster
(4 Aug); Puccini’s Tosca 10-29 Aug, 6 Sept) directed by Hugo de Ana; Carmina Burana by Carl Orff on 11 Aug. Classical ballet star Roberto Bolle and his invited friends dance on 16, 17 July. For full details see website www.arena.it.
SUMMER FESTIVALS
Some of the festivals to look out for in July and August the Puccini Torre del Lago festival (6 July-16 Aug), Umbria Jazz (12-21 July), Macerata Opera festival (19 July-11 Aug), Ravello (Aug), Rossini opera festival in Pesaro (11-23 Aug).
MILAN Ariadne auf Naxos at La Scala until 22 June.
TEATRO ALLA SCALA ARIADNE AUF NAXOS BY RICHARD STRAUSS 23 April- 22 June
Frederic Wake Walker is the young British director of this Strauss opera conducted by the Strauss expert Franz Wesler-Möst who will return later in the year (September) to conduct Wanted in Rome • June 2019 | 47
another Strauss opera Die ägyptische Helena at La Scala. The production was performed in Cleveland earlier this year, also with Tamara Wilson from the Met Opera who sang the role of Ariadne for the first time and who is relatively new to the Milan opera. She sings the part of Ariadne on 19, 22 June, after performances in April and May by Kassimira Stoyanova, who also sang the role for the first time at the end of last year in Dresden. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.
IDOMENEO BY MOZART 16 May-6 June
This continues the series of Mozart operas at La Scala and like La Finta Gardiniera last October is conducted by Diego Fasolis in a new staging. Idomeneo is sung by Bernard Richter (who comes from singing the part in Vienna) and Electra by Federica Lombardi. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.
DIE TOTE STADT BY KORNGOLD 28 May-17 June
This opera, composed by Erik Korngold in 1920, comes to La Scala for the first time and will be conducted by Alan Gilbert and directed by Graham Vick. Korngold, who was described as a genius by Mahler, fled to the United States in 1934 to avoid the Nazi persecution of the Jews. He was very successful in Hollywood, where he composed 16 film scores, and became one of the founders of music for films. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.
theatre ROME’S COMEDY CLUB 28 June
This evening of stand-up comedy in English is the last show of the season by Rome’s Comedy Club and takes place at the Maki Surf and Tiki Bar in the Ostiense district. The
48 | June 2019 • Wanted in Rome
ROME
Puccini’s Turndot in 2015. Baths of Caracalla, Rome. www.operaroma.it.
TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA
LA TRAVIATA BY VERDI
LA CENERENTOLA BY ROSSINI 8-13 June
Rossini’s opera premiered at the Rome opera house in 1819 and has been popular ever since. This production, which is directed by Emma Dante, had considerable success in the 2016 season and now returns conducted by Stefano Montanari. Rene Barbera (who sang the part of Richard Percy in Anna Bolena at Rome’s opera house in March) alternates with Michele Angelini as Don Ramiro, Vito Priante and Filippo Fontana as Dandini, Carlo Lepore as Don Magnifico and Rafaela Albuquerque and Sara Rocchi from the Fabbrica Young Artists programme as Clorinda and Tisbe. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www. operaroma.it.
19 July-8 Aug
Verdi’s Traviata is conducted by Manlio Bensi and directed by Lorenzo Mariani with Violetta as Francesca Dotto and Valentina Varriale from the Fabbrica Young Artists programme, Alessandro Scotto di Luzio as Alfredo (all three of whom sang these roles in January at Rome’s opera theatre in the Sofia Coppola’s production) and Marcello Rosiello as Giorgio Germont. Mariani’s production was performed last year at Caracalla. Baths of Caracalla, Rome.
GALA PLACIDO DOMINGO NOCHE ESPAŇOLA 7 Aug
TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA SUMMER SEASON BATHS OF CARACALLA
The great concert of the three tenors was given at the Baths of Caracalla for the first time in 1990. Placido Domingo returns for a concert with mainly Spanish music, accompanied by the Teatro dell’Opera orchestra as well as Ana Maria Martinez and Arturo Chacon Cruz and the Spanish flamenco company Antonio Gades.
AIDA BY VERDI
OPERACAMION
4 July-3 Aug
This is a new production of Verdi’s opera directed by Dennis Krief conducted by Jordi Bernacér. Aida is perfectly suited the magestic setting of the Baths of Caracalla and it now returns for the first time since 2011. This is Krief’s debut with Aida. His last production at Caracalla was
€15 entrance fee includes aperitivo, a beer or glass of wine. Doors open at 20.00, with the show starting at 21.30. Bookings (by text only, no calls) via Whatsapp 3397514140 or email makairoma@gmail.com. Via dei Magazzini Generali, 4/a/b/c.
PLAY ON! 4-9 June
The Rome Savoyards/Plays in Rome presents Rick Abbot’s play, produced in collaboration with Samuel French
This season Tosca has been chosen as the opera performed from a lorry that visits various parts of the city during the summer with the Teatro dell’Opera’s youth orchestra. The project has been going since the 2016 season. It is a pity it isn’t better advertised as it’s a great idea to bring opera to an ever wider public.
Inc, and directed by Sandra Provost. The play is the hilarious story of a theatre company trying desperately to put on a production in spite of maddening interference from a haughty author who keeps revising the script within days of the play’s premiere, leading to a madcap finale. Shows 4-7 June at 20.30 and 8-9 June at 17.30. For bookings contact playsinrome@yahoo.com or tel. 3478248661. Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1 (Piazza Mazzini).
Fotografia 6 at Villa Massimo. Andreas Gursky, Ratingen, Schwimmbad © Andreas Gursky, by SIAE 2019, Courtesy Sprüth Magers.
November 1945 American poet Ezra Pound was repatriated from Italy – where he had been living since 1924, and written most of his Cantos – to face charges of treason for his pro-Axis wartime broadcasts from Radio Rome. Pleading insanity, he was interned for 13 years in a psychiatric hospital in Washington DC. Less than a month after his release in 1958, he returned to Italy, where he would spend the final 14 years of his life. This lecture by Sean Mark (BSR) will focus on the poetry and politics of Pound’s ‘second’ Italian period and how his later years have shaped his reception and legacy. 18.00-19.30. British School at Rome, Via Gramsci 61, tel. 063264939, www.bsr.ac.uk.
ACADEMIES AMERICAN ACADEMY IN ROME 22 May-13 July
An exhibition titled The Academic Body charts the changing representations of the body in art and society from 1894, the year in which the American Academy in Rome was founded, up to the present day. The exhibition features work by artists affiliated with the AAR (Fellows and Residents) whose work has explored themes relating to the body and gender in provocative ways, as well as artists whose “trajectories have intersected meaningfully and critically with Italy and the academic tradition.”
6 June
AAR presents its popular Open Studios event on 6 June from 18.0023.00. The initiative offers the public an opportunity to visit the studios of the current Rome Prize Fellows and Italian Fellows in the fields of architecture, landscape architecture, design, historic preservation and conservation, and visual arts and to attend readings by the Rome Prize Fellows in literature and musical performances by the Rome Prize Fellows and Italian Fellow in musical composition. This year’s participants are: Ila Beka, Erin Besler and Marcel Sanchez Prieto in architecture; Dylan Fracareta and Amy Franceschini in design; Zaneta Hong and Michael
Saltarella in landscape architecture; Joannie Bottkol and Lori Wong in historic preservation and conservation; Nicolas Leong, Renato Leotta, Invernomuto, Helen O’Leary, Karyn Olivier and Basil Twist in visual arts; Kirstin Valdez Quade, Bennett Sims and Virginia Virilli in literature; and Michelle Lou and Jessie Marino in musical composition. American Academy in Rome, tel. 0658461, www.aarome.org.
BRITISH SCHOOL AT ROME 6 June
Film screening for the 75th anniversary of the Liberation of Rome and D-Day. 18.00. Roma Città Aperta (1945, directed by Roberto Rossellini). 21.00. The World at War, episode 17 Morning June–August 1944, narrated by Laurence Olivier (1973–4, directed by Jeremy Isaacs).
14-22 June
The academy’s 2019 June Mostra features the work of current Fine Arts award-holders Andrew Bonneau, Phoebe Boswell, Anna Brass, Jade Ching-yuk Ng, Kirtika Kain, Jonathan Kim, Karin Ruggaber. The exhibition will be inaugurated on 14 June, from 18.30-21.00, and can be visited MonSat 16.30-19.00 until 22 June.
19 June Ezra
Pound’s
Italian
afterlives. In
GERMAN ACADEMY IN ROME 17 May- 28 June
Rome’s German Academy at Villa Massimo presents Fotografia 6, an exhibition containing images by photographers and contemporaries Michael Schmidt and Andreas Gursky. The works on display concentrate on the diverse body of work created by the two German photographers during the 1980s. This exhibition is the sixth and final installment in a series of shows illustrating the evolution of German photography from the 1920s to today by contrasting the images of two photographers working in the same era. Villa Massimo, Largo di Villa Massimo 1-2, tel. 064425931, www. villamassimo.de.
JAPANESE CULTURAL INSTITUTE 20 March-22 June
The Japanese Cultural Institute stages a photographic exhibition capturing Japan’s athletes in the most extreme sporting positions, from jumping to racing, kicking to diving. Held in collaboration with the Japan Camera Industry Institute, the images represent the best of Japanese sports photography, with the exhibition coming ahead of the Tokyo Olympics 2020. Istituto Giapponese di Cultura, Via Antonio Gramsci 74, www.jfroma.it. Wanted in Rome • June 2019 | 49
lassical lassical
The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a definitive list of all the music that is available in the city. The following is a list of the main musical There are also concerts in many of the associations in Rome but it is not a definitive churches and sometimes in the museums. list of all the music that is available in the city. There are also concerts in many of the Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della churches and sometimes in the museums. Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Auditorium Conciliazione, ViaP. de della Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Accademia Filarmonica Teatro Auditorium Parco della Romana, Musica, Viale P. de Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro starts on 15 Oct Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season concerts Parco della Musica. The startsat onAuditorium 15 Oct newAccademia season startsS. on 5Cecilia, Oct www.santacecilia.it. All
concerts Universitaria at Auditorium Parco della Musica. Istituzione dei Concerti, AulaThe newUniversità season starts on 5 Oct www.concertiiuc.it Magna, la Sapienza,
Istituzione Universitaria deiGonfalone Concerti,32a, Aula Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it www.oratoriogonfalone.com Oratorio delMethodist Gonfalone, Via delPiazza Gonfalone 32a, RomeConcerts, Church, Ponte www.oratoriogonfalone.com S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it RomeConcerts, Piazza Ponte Roma Sinfonietta, Methodist AuditoriumChurch, Ennio Morricone, S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Roma Auditorium Roma Tre Sinfonietta, Orchestra, some concertsEnnio are atMorricone, Teatro Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others at Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are are at Teatro the Aula Magna, Piazza Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, 8, Palladium, Bartolomeo Romano Universita Roma Tre, Via while Ostienze teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, others234, are at www.r30.org the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Tre,festivals Via Ostienze 234, There are oftenRoma concerts, and opera www.r30.org recitals in several churches in Rome.
often concerts, festivals and153, opera All There Saints' are Anglican Church, Via Babuino recitals in several churches in Rome. www.allsaintsrome.org All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. www.allsaintsrome.org Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7 Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com
Oratorio del Caravita, Caravita St Paul's Within the Walls,Via Viadella Nazionale and7 the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the S. Agnese Sagrestia del Borromini, corner ofin ViaAgone, Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it Piazza Navona S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Palazzo PiazzaDoria NavonaPamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum Serenades by Night Dinner throughout and Opera dinner afterwards. Viawith del Corso 305, the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum www.doriapamphilj.com and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com Jan 2019 ••Wanted 5050 |48 Oct 2018 • Wanted in in Rome ||June 2019 Wanted inRome Rome
MUSIC MUSIC THEATR THEATRE CINEMA CINEMA VENUES VENUES
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MUSIC THEATRE CINEMA DANCE OPERA
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The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wantedshow in Rome website for The following cinemas movies in English weekly updates. or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for Adriano, Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 weeklyPiazza updates. Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 0686391361 Barberini, Piazza BarberiniMastroianni 24-26, 1, tel. Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello 0686391361 tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it
Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it 068553485 Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 068553485 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 066861068 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 066861068 Odeon, Piazza Stefano 22, tel. Nuovo Sacher, LargoJacini Ascianghi 1, 0686391361 tel. 065818116
Space Moderno, Piazza della 44, tel. Odeon, Piazza Stefano JaciniRepubblica 22, tel. 0686391361 06892111 Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebec06892111 chini 3-5, tel. 06892111 Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111
ddance oopera p pop r ock r ance
Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it
Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano www.teatrovascello.it 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it
pera
Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it
op
ock
Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.
Concert venues ranging from major pop and Alexanderplatz, 9, tel. 0683775604 rock groups to Via jazzOstia and acoustic gigs. www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org Angelo Mai Via Atlantico delle Terme di Atlantico, VialeAltrove, dell’Oceano 271d, Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it
Atlantico, Viale Atlantico Auditorium Parcodell’Oceano della Musica, Viale 271d, P. de tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com Auditorium della Viale de Casa del Jazz, Parco Viale di PortaMusica, Ardeatina 55,P.tel. Coubertin,www.casajazz.it tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com 06704731,
t
Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it
heatre heatre
Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net www.teatrobelli.it Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobelli.it www.teatrobrancaccio.it Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatrobrancaccio.it www.teatroghione.it Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. www.teatroghione.it 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net Jan 2019 5250| |June 2019 •• Wanted Wantedin inRome Rome
Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com Lanificio 159,ViaVia di Pietralata 159, Live Alcazar, Cardinale Merry del Valtel. 14, 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com Live Alcazar, Merry del 35, Val 14, Monk Club, Via ViaCardinale Giuseppe Mirri tel. tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com 0664850987, www.monkroma.it Monk Club, ViaPiazzale Giuseppe Mirri 35,1, tel. PalaLottomatica, dello Sport tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it PalaLottomatica, Piazzale Sport 1, tel. Rock in Roma, Via Appiadello Nuova 1245, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com
Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it www.teatrosangenesio.it Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsiwww.teatrosangenesio.it stina.it Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.ilsistina.it www.teatrovascello.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Vittoria,www.teatrovascello.it Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. tel. 065898031, 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it 51 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome
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WANTED junior inROME RISA schools prioritise reduction of plastic Isabella Todini, age 17, grade 11, St Stephen's School, Rome.
“By choosing the path of indifference we are consciously giving up on the life, home and happiness of the future generations of this Earth.” St Stephen’s junior Camille Wefers Bettink has been the leading force for climate action on campus, and the face of the Plastic Reduction Campaign, a project aiming to identify, measure and reduce the presence and use of plastic at all RISA schools (Rome International School Association) by 2020. The method of the campaign is simple: there are seven indicators against which each school is invited to evaluate their use of plastic. The indicators range from teacher engagement to plastic in furniture and school supplies, to the plastic used in the school bars and cafeterias. The goal is to make each school and their respective community aware that their actions can and will be measured and to provide them with honest insight into their plastic usage and areas for improvement. Wefers Bettink launched the campaign to over 200 participants at the RISA conference in March, encouraging all present to consider the impact
RISA students join the climate strike in Rome on 15 March.
that they as individuals and as schools have on the environment, and thus the power they hold to enact positive change. Unsurprisingly, she was met with overwhelming support, including Head of School Eric Mayer who affirms that “everyone agrees it’s a good idea.” St Stephen’s Green Council club supervisor Dr Rebecca Raynor adds that she “[supports] this campaign wholeheartedly because plastic pollution is devastating the earth and its ecosystems...we can play an active role in reducing the amount of plastic we use and in opting for sustainable alternatives.” As with any ambitious and provocative campaign, it is likely that this project will encounter challenges. Mayer isolates some of the challenges that Wefers Bettink and the campaign may face on their path to the full reduction of plastic in RISA schools, such as the need to spend more money on sustainable materials or to go without some ordinary commodities such as single-use tableware. It remains true that the dedicated are young and are few, while the supporters prefer to stand on the sidelines and watch the attempts at change
making. Wefers Bettink points out that “the biggest challenge up until now has been that of making people care.” Getting people to care and to manifest that drive and enthusiasm for the campaign into tangible action is crucial to the campaign’s success. Ultimately, it comes down to a choice to do something, a choice to prioritise the reduction of plastic. “We chose to care because all of us felt that the way we look at our planet has to change," says Wefers Bettink, speaking for the students working with her on the campaign. Mayer, Raynor and Wefers Bettink agree that it will take conscious action on the part of the entire school community to really make a difference. However, Wefers Bettink is ready to go the extra mile to ensure that she is doing her part to distance herself from plastic. She attests that the path she has chosen is “the one with more small sacrifices to make, yet the greater satisfaction and better results to gain.” With this in mind, she and her like-minded peers are encouraging other students to learn more about their role in the fight for climate justice. Just a few weeks ago, members of the Green Council presented one of the seven indicators to the St Stephen’s student body: student engagement. They put emphasis on the facts and statistics, doing their best to prove to any skeptics that there was scientific evidence to support their cause. These efforts are not in
vain, as students discuss the campaign in the hallway in between classes and continue to share information amongst themselves about the reality of climate change, but there is still a ways to go. “We hope to unite students, teachers, and staff in believing in this cause and in bringing about change.” The energy that Wefers Bettink and her Green Council peers in with regard to this campaign is inspiring. They are, without a doubt, among the leaders of the Rome climate justice movement, working towards a greener, cleaner future for us all. St Stephen's, Via Aventina 3, tel. 065750605, www.sssrome.it.
WANTED IN ROME JUNIOR: For young writers and artists Wanted in Rome is accepting creative contributions from students in all international schools in Rome. Articles on topics related to either the student’s life in Rome or their school projects can be submitted by their class teachers. The work should be no more than 1,000 words and all contributions should contain the name, age and school of the students. We also accept illustrations. Any class teachers who would like to propose a project please contact editorial@wantedinrome.com.
Wanted in Rome • June 2019 | 55
Rome’s artart capital continues to to grow with newnew murals by important Italian and Rome'sreputation reputationasasananimportant importantstreet street capital continues grow with murals by important Italian international streetstreet artistsartists appearing all the all time. the works located the suburbs, often far often from the and international appearing theMost time.ofMost of theare works are in located in the suburbs, far centre. Here is where to is find Rome’s mainthe street artstreet projects murals. from the centre. Here where to find main artand projects and murals around Rome. Esquilino Esquilino Murals Murals byby Alice Alice Pasquini, Pasquini, Gio Gio Pistone, Nicola Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Alessandrini, Diamond. Diamond. Casa Casa dell’Architettura, dell'Architettura, Piazza Fanti 47. PiazzaMafredo Manfredo Fanti 47. Marconi Marconi The The M.A.G.R. M.A.G.R. (Museo (Museo Abusivo Abusivo Gestito Gestitodai daiRom), Rom),a aproject projectby byFrench French street artistSeth Seth is located in a street artist is located in a former former soap factory Via Antonio soap factory on Viaon Antonio AvogaAvogadro, opposite dro, opposite Ostiense'sOstiense’s landmark landmark Gasometro. details see Gasometro. For For details see www.999contemporary.com. www.999contemporary.com. Museodell’Altro dell’Altroe edell’Altrove dell’Altrovedidi Museo Metropoliz Metropoliz This former former meat meat factory factory inin the the This outskirts of of Rome art outskirts Rome isis now nowa astreet street museum being home hometoto art museumasaswell well as as being some200 200squatting squatters,migrants. many of The them some migrants. The Museo dell’Altrodi e Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove dell’Altroveor diMAAM, Metropoliz, or MAAM, Metropoliz, is only open only open Saturdays, and onis Saturdays, andon features the work the work of moreincluding than 300 offeatures more than 300 artists artists including Gio Edoardo Kobra,Edoardo Gio Kobra, Pistone, Pistone, Sten&Lex Diamond.and See Sten&Lex, Pablo and Echaurren MAAM Facebook page for details. Borondo. See MAAM Facebook page Via Prenestina 913. for details. Via Prenestina 913. Ostiense Ostiense Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Porto Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Fluviale. Porto Fluviale. Fish’n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via Fish’n’Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale. del Porto Fluviale. Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali. Magazzini Generali. Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense Via Ostiense. underpass, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense. Pigneto Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Pigneto Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71. Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.
56 | June 2019 • Wanted in Rome
Via Via Fanfulla Fanfulla da da Lodi. Lodi. 2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio. Fortebraccio. 2501 mural on Via Blu by Sten Blu Landscape Landscape by Sten & & Lex. Lex. Via Via Francesco Baracca. Francesco Baracca. Prati Prati Anna Magnaniportrait portrait by Diavù. Anna Magnani by Diavù. Nuovo Nuovo MercatoViaTrionfale, Via Mercato Trionfale, Andrea Doria. Andrea Doria. theSabotino. bear by Daniza the bear byDaniza ROA. Via ROA. Via Sabotino. Primavalle Primavalle The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via Cristoforo Numai. Cristoforo Numai. Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Theseus stabbing the Bembo. Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo. Quadraro Quadraro Tunnel murals by Mr THOMS and Gio Tunnel byMure. Mr THOMS and Pistone. murals Via Decio Gio Decio Mure. Via del NidoPistone. di Vespe Via by Lucamaleonte. Nido didel Vespe by Lucamaleonte. Via Monte Grano. del Monte Baby Hulkdel byGrano. Ron English. Via dei Baby PisoniHulk 89. by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89. Rebibbia Rebibbia Murals by Blu. Via Ciciliano and Via Murals by Blu. Via Palombini (Casal dèCiciliano Pazzi). and Via Palombini dè Pazzi). Welcome to(Casal Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Metro B station. Metro B station. S. Basilio S.SanBa Basilio features large-scale works on SanBa features large-scale works the façades of social-housing blockson in the of social-housing blocks the façades disadvantaged north-east suburb of in the disadvantaged north-east S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regenerasuburb of S.includes Basilio works near Rebibbia. tion project by Italian The project artistsregeneration Agostino Iacurci, Hitnesincludes and Blu works by Spain's ItalianLiqen. artistsViaAgostino alongside Maiolati, Iacurci, Hitnes and BluVia alongside Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Arcevia, Spain’s Via Treia.Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, Via Treia. S. Giovanni Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via S.Apulia Giovanni corner of Via Farsalo. Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.
It’s aa New NewDay Daybyby Alice Pasquini. It’s Alice Pasquini. Via Via Anton Ludovico. Anton Ludovico. S. Lorenzo Lorenzo S. AlicePasquini. Pasquini. ViaSabelli. dei Sabelli. Alice Via dei Feminicidemural mural Elisa Feminicide by Elisaby Caracciolo. Caracciolo. Via Dei Sardi.Via Dei Sardi. Borondo. Via Viadei deiVolsci Volsci159. 159. Borondo. Mural by by Agostino AgostinoIacurci Iacurci on Mural on the the Istituto Superiore di Lattanzio, Vittorio Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia. Via Aquilonia. Pietro S. Pietro UmaCabra Cabra Bordalo II. Stazione Uma byby Bordalo II. Stazione di S. Pietro, di Monte di S. Clivo Pietro, Clivo del di Gallo. Monte del Gallo. Testaccio Hunted Wolf by ROA. Via Galvani. Testaccio #KindComments AliceVia Pasquini, Via Hunted Wolf bybyROA. Galvani. Volta, Testaccio market. #KindComments by Alice Pasquini, Via Volta, Testaccio market. Tor Pignattara Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta. Tor Pignattara Etnik. Via Bartolomeo Perestrello 51. Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta. Coffee Etam Cru. Via Ludovico Etnik.Break ViabyBartolomeo Perestrello Pavoni. 51. Coffee Break by Etam Cru. Via Tom SawyerPavoni. by Jef Aerosol. Via Gabrio Ludovico Serbelloni. Tom Sawyer by Jef Aerosol. Via Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema Gabrio Serbelloni. Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Galeazzo Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Alessi. Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Herakut. Via Capua 14. Galeazzo Alessi. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Herakut. Via Capua 14. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Tor Marancia The Big City Life scheme features 14-m Tormurals Marancia tall by 22 Italian and internaThe Big City artists Life scheme features tional street including Mr 14-m tall by Jerico. 22 Italian and Klevra, Seth,murals Gaia and The idea international street was to transform theartists area's including blocks of Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia and Jerico. flats into an open-air art museum. Via TheMarancia. idea was to transform the area’s Tor www.bigcity.life.it. blocks of flats into an open-air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. For full details see website, www.bigcity.life.it.
Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth. Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.
Wanted in Rome • June 2019 | 57
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Wanted in Rome | December 2017
agorski
By Kate Z
FETTUCCINE AGLIO, OLIO, BACCALÀ E PECORINO Baccalà is cod which has been preserved by first salting and then drying so the crusty hunks of fish must be rehydrated and desalted by soaking them in cold water for at least 24 hours with regular rinsing. In Rome baccalà is traditionally eaten on a Friday when it will generally be served with ceci (chickpeas, which also need a good soak before cooking). The rinsing and cleaning is a bit of a fuss so many of the city’s delicatessens will sell ready-soaked fillets of baccalà on Thursdays and Friday; look out for them by the doorway, submerged in large tanks of water. The bright white fillets are often prepared either pan-fried or baked, while Rome’s takeaway shops and pizzerie will serve them battered and deep fried. This recipe blends the tradition of baccalà with the classic pasta recipe of aglio, olio e peperoncino (oil, garlic and chili) and mixes the cod with a hefty sprinkling of pecorino romano to thicken the sauce. Romans are usually horrified by the idea of pairing fish and cheese together but this recipe is a good way to convince them that it works perfectly. Pair the dish with a well-structured dry white wine which will stand up to the strong flavours of baccalà and pecorino. A good local choice from Lazio is the organic white Capolemole by Marco Carpineti.
Ingredients Serves 2 • 250g of desalted baccalà • 2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley (about 1 large fillet) • Half a glass of white wine • 180g fresh fettuccine • 2 handfuls of grated pecorino romano • 1 clove of garlic • Extra virgin olive oil • 1 fresh red chili
The first thing to do is taste the baccalà, occasionally it is not completely desalted so if this is the case rinse it in cold running water for a few minutes to remove the excess salt. Chop the baccalà into small cubes and finely chop the parsley, chili and garlic. Heat a generous splash of olive oil in a non-stick pan and gently fry the garlic and chilli until soft, then add the parsley and baccalà. The baccalà will lose some liquid, once this has begun to dry out add the white wine and cook for a few more minutes until the alcohol has evaporated. Make sure there is still some liquid left in the pan. Meanwhile cook the pasta. A couple of minutes before the end of cooking time, drain, add to the frying pan and finish cooking in the sauce until al dente. Once the pasta is cooked turn off the heat and add the pecorino, stirring all the while, to thicken the sauce. Serve immediately.
Coromandel, Via di Monte Giordano 60/61, tel. 0668802461. Dolce, Via Tripolitania 4, tel. 0686215696. Ketumbar, Via Galvani 24, tel. 0657305338. ‘Na Cosetta, Via Ettore Giovenale 54, tel. 0645598326.
Indirizzi
Queen Makeda, Via di S. Saba 11, tel. 065759608.
Ciclostazione Frattini, Via Pietro Frattini 136/138, tel. 065503707. Atlas Coelestis, Via Malcesine 41, tel. 0635072243. Porto Fluviale, Via del Porto Fluviale 22, tel. 065743199. Rosti al Pigneto, Via Bartolomeo D’Alviano 65, tel. 062752608. Doppiozero, Via Ostiense 68, tel. 0657301961. Misto, Via Fezzan 21, tel. 0645471971. Il Bistrot delle Officine Farneto, Via dei Monti della Farnesina 77, tel. 0690286945. Mavi, Lungotevere di Pietra Papa 201, tel. 065584801.
60 | June 2019 • Wanted in Rome
Where to brunch in Rome Our picks of the best restaurants and cafes serving brunch on weekends – from Eggs Benedict to American-style pancakes. QUEEN MAKEDA GRAND PUB Each Sunday Queen Makeda offers an international brunch of dishes from the wok, noodles, salads, eggs, homemade tarts, vegetables, baked potatoes, artisan sausages and wurstel. There’s also the option of a British-style Sunday roast lunch, which includes beef, chicken, lamb, pork and Yorkshire puddings. Don’t miss the desserts, the 40 different craft beers available, the juices and the tasty nonalcoholic drinks. On the children’s menu (there’s also a supervised kids’ play area) you’ll find burgers, chips, tomato pasta and hot dogs. Sun 12.30-16.00. COROMANDEL Located near Piazza Navona, this cafe recreates the feel of a cosy 1950s home. If you fancy English-style eggs or pancakes for breakfast, then this is your place. On the menu you’ll find: simple eggs, omelette with roast potatoes and sausage, and either pancakes with bacon and maple syrup, scrambled eggs, maple syrup and icing sugar, or sweet pancakes with chocolate and hazelnut sauce, banana and flaked almonds. There are also smoothies, yogurt and fruit. Sat-Sun from 11.00-15.00. DOLCE For a New York-style Sunday brunch, head to Dolce, the restaurant and bakery in the Africano district. The kitchen is transformed into a bakery with a menu brimming with international cuisine. From eggs to pancakes, or even to sandwiches, sweet and savoury are placed side by side. You can choose between an omelette with three fillings of your choice, or an Eggs Benedict on toasted bread baked in-house. Sun 12.00-15.00. KETUMBAR Ketumbar’s organic brunch, served at weekends, is the talk of Testaccio. There’s a buffet ranging from antipasti to cakes and pastries, that changes seasonally. There are also many different soups, cous cous, dark taragna polente, fritters, hummus, cod au gratin, granary focaccia, salads and vegan dishes. The menu is accompanied by organic wine and artisan beers. At Ketumbar, brunch is also baby-friendly. There’s a kid’s menu and a space dedicated to young children, cared for by qualified minders. Sat-Sun 12.30-16.00. ‘NA COSETTA In this Italian bistro in Pigneto, you can enjoy brunch, otherwise known in Italian as the ‘colanzo’. Dishes are both sweet and savoury and stick to a true Italian style with a few of the chef’s special touches. Pastries and cakes are made by pastry chef Stefania Guerrizio. Sun 12.30-16.00. CICLOSTAZIONE FRATTINI If you’re on the hunt for a place in the Portuense district where you can sit outside and let your kids run about, Ciclostazione Frattini should be your go-to brunch spot. A restaurant, pizzeria and grill, here the whole family can have fun in the indoor Baby Garden and Baby Park. The menu includes more than 30 options, ranging from fresh artisan pasta to homemade cakes and desserts. There are main courses such as meat and fish dishes, soups, cooked vegetables, salads, and cheeses. Sat-Sun 12.30-15.30.
ATLAS COELESTIS Here you can choose between ten different dishes, from antipasti to dessert, which change weekly. There are also roselline di pizza (baked pizza in the shape of roses) to taste, as the restaurant has reopened its pizza oven and in the evening it serves pizzas made with wholewheat flour. On the kid’s menu you’ll find three different options for the main meal and ice cream for dessert. Sun 12.30. PORTO FLUVIALE This crowded Ostiense restaurant offers a buffet brunch menu containing around 60 dishes: hot and cold pasta dishes, soups, raw salads and cooked vegetable dishes, meats, and cheeses served with a variety of tasty dips and sauces. Don’t forget to try the delicious pastries and cakes. Sat-Sun 12.30-16.00. ROSTI AL PIGNETO If you feel like spending the weekend outside in a huge garden suitable for children, Rosti is the place for you. For starters you can tuck into the gnocchi with tomato and basil sauce, cannelloni with ricotta and tomato, ravioli with burrata, tomato and basil, or vegetarian crepes. For main course there’s seasoned meat balls, veal steak with mushrooms, roast pork with honey, turkey nuggets with yoghurt and mustard, anchovies marinated in tarragon and chilli, or cod balls with tomato, as well as salads and desserts. Sat-Sun 12.30-16.00. DOPPIOZERO Here you can enjoy a tasty brunch that benefits from its onsite bakery. The buffet at the weekend includes pasta, pizza (many different types), olive bread, cous cous, salmon, meat, buffalo mozarella and baked goods such as muffins and brownies. Sat-Sun 12.30-15.30. MISTO Located in the Africano district, Misto serves club sandwiches, pancakes, muffins, salads, and seasonal fruits made into juices and smoothies. You can choose one dish from a choice of three: the club sandwich, fillet of salmon or veggie sandwich and then add either pancakes or a salad, then choose between a savoury muffin or Scottish scone, and select a fruit juice. Kids can enjoy either a savoury muffin or Scottish scone, pancakes, fruit salad or orange or blueberry juice. We also recommend trying one of the alcoholic fruit cocktails or a pomegranate spritz. Sun 11.30-15.30. IL BISTROT DELLE OFFICINE FARNETO Every Sunday you can tuck into a tasty brunch at the bistro in Officine Farneto, on Via Monti della Farnesina. The dishes range from homemade fresh pasta to meat and fish courses, cooked vegetables and desserts. We recommend the freshly-prepared burgers. Sun from 12.30. MAVI At Mavi you can enjoy a brunch that’s a little different – part buffet, part à la carte. On the buffet you’ll find eggs, savoury pancakes and many different salad recipes, while from the menu you can order dishes such as burgers, bagels, cakes and sweet pancakes. The buffet includes coffee, water and fruit juice. Sun 13.00-16.00.
www.puntarellarossa.it Wanted in Rome • June 2019 | 61
I B WO R L D S C H O O L
Inspiring Global Citizens. romeinternationalschool.it +39 06 844 82 651
BOOK A CAMPUS VISIT In partnership with
FOUNDED IN 1976
OPEN DAY
Thursday 6th June 2019
08.30 to 15.00
Preparing students for the world of tomorrow. southlands.it +39 06 5053932 In partnership with
Associations American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com Daughters of the American Revolution Pax Romana Chapter NSDAR paxromana@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com
International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490, www.iwcofrome.it Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 3338466820 Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Woman’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com
Books The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified. Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 Anglo American Bookshop Via delle Vite 102, tel. 066795222 Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it
Religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881 Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish)
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Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484 Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com Otherwise Via del Governo Vecchio, tel. 066879825, www.otherwisebookshop.com St Patrick’s English-Language Lending Library Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 0688818727, Sun 10.00-12.30, Tues 10.00-14.00, Wed 15.00-18.00, Thurs 11.00-15.30 Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 3332284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday Service 10.30
Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei SS. Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Roma Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic) Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00
Support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.info Archè (HIV+children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/06582045580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 3381675680
Transport • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157066645-064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it
St Isidore College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic), Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827, www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri” Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022
Chiamaroma 24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606
Emergency numbers • • • • • • •
Ambulance tel. 118 Carabinieri tel. 112 Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 Fire brigade tel. 115 Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 Police tel. 113 Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355 Wanted in Rome • June 2019 | 65
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In an ever growing global community, health care is not limited to a person's home country: people from every culture can find what they need to feel themselves at home in Campus Bio-Medico University Hospital of Rome
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Your Passport to Worldclass Healthcare K
Campus Bio-Medico University Hospital of Rome provides: • Coordination of Hospital, physician and diagnostic appointments • Free of charge translation services for all the procedures • 12 hours medical services, including air ambulance transfer coordination • Partnership with major International Insurance Companies • Elevated International Standard and sole General Hospital JCI Accredited in Rome Whether you are a patient, family member or friend feel free to contact us at: Hospitaly - International Patients Program Officer Via Álvaro del Portillo, 200 - Rome (Italy) mail: info@hospitaly.it - phone: 0039.06.22541.8852 WWW.HOSPITALY.IT
Single Cycle Master Degree Program
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Medicine and Surgery
The new English-taught Master Degree Program is designed using a multidisciplinary approach to train students to become doctors practicing in a diverse biomedical-social culture with interdisciplinary and intercultural working skills. In line with the guiding principles of Campus Bio-Medico University of Rome, the teaching is entirely patient-centred and community-centred. A deep knowledge of ethical issues is applied to the use of advanced medical technology in order to promote health-care through a humanistic approach. Students are provided with strong foundations in scientific methodology, statistics and "evidence based medicine” imparted through means of Problem-Based Learning (PBL) a method that uses complex real-world problems as the vehicle to stimulate student learning of theoretical concepts and principles as opposed to direct presentation of facts and concepts. The program is designed in such a way that its core contents anticipate and integrate the European specifications for global standards in medical education according to the World Federation on Medical Education in international basic standards and quality development of biomedical education (WFME Office, University of Copenhagen, 2007) and the Basic Medical Education WFME Global Standards for Quality Improvement - 2015 Revision (WFME Office Ferney-Voltaire, France Copenhagen, Denmark 2015).
orientamento@unicampus.it - www.unicampus.it
Tel: 06.22541.9056/8121/8715 - Via Álvaro del Portillo 21 - 00128 Roma
World record Š Paola Pivi - Photo Š Attilio Maranzano Courtesy the artist
at MAXXI until 8 September 2019
MAXXI | Museo nazionale delle arti del XXI secolo via Guido Reni, 4A - Roma | www.maxxi.art founding members