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THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME

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CONT

EDITORIALS

THE PIECES AFTER LOCKDOWN Andy Devane

10. WHAT DOES THE FUTURE LOOK LIKE FOR REAL ESTATE IN ITALY

Marco Venturini

16. LUCA SIGNORELLI'S FRESCO CYCLE IN ORVIETO

Martin Bennett

20. TO DO CALENDAR 22. Beaches near rome 24. Lakes around rome 26. ROME FOR children 28. STREET ART guide 30. MUSEUMS 34. ART GALLERIES 45. CULTURAL VENUES 50. ITALY READS AND ITALY

WHAT'S ON

38. EXHIBITIONS 41. FESTIVALS

WRITES AT JCU 53. RECIPE 56. USEFUL NUMBERS

DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: Marco Venturini EDITRICE: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9 PROGETTO GRAFICO E IMPAGINAZIONE: Dali Studio Srl STAMPA: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c. DIFFUSIONE: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425. Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131del 6/3/1985. Finito di stampare il 31/05/2020

THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME

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The Colosseum pays tribute to victims of covid-19 and their loved ones by lighting up with the colours of the Italian flag. Photo Andy Devane.

ENTS 4

ROME PICKS UP THE PIECES AFTER LOCKDOWN

WHAT DOES THE FUTURE LOOK LIKE FOR REAL ESTATE IN ITALY

FESTIVALS

38 EXHIBITIONS

COVID-19

ROME PICKS UP THE PIECES AFTER LOCKDOWN ROME STRUGGLES FORWARD AFTER THE TRAUMA OF LOCKDOWN AND A LOST SPRING Andy Devane Lockdown in Rome was a dark time with little light. The eeriness of the situation was summed up perfectly in Quarantine Mood, a short film by Alessandro Marinelli who captured rooftop scenes of the Tor Pignattara suburb as it struggled to stay sane in the most trying of situations. “Attention, do not leave your houses” blared the loudspeaker on the army van, ordering people to respect the rules and reminding them that “offenders will be reported.” That was in mid-March, in the early days of Italy’s covid-19 emergency. Marinelli’s film shows a police helicopter flying overhead, keeping a look-out for people who should have been at home, while indoors children sang “Happy birthday dear Rosy.”

March was followed by a seemingly neverending April and then came the light. With the easing of restrictions on 4 May Romans ventured outside into a city they faintly recognised. Grass grew between the sampietrini in Piazza Navona and the Circus Maximus resembled a meadow. Plastic gloves fluttered in the breeze and motorino wheels were tangled in weeds. Fast forward two weeks to 18 May and lockdown as we knew it was over. The euphoria was muted. Gone was the Orwellian requirement to carry papers stating the reason you left your house and where exactly you were going. We were also allowed, officially, to meet our friends who we now greet with our elbows. The nightly singalong to Grazie Roma from the balconies on Viale Aventino,

Rome residents practice social distancing in Piazza Testaccio. All photos by Leon Perez.

4 | June 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Disinfecting dinner tables at Da Bucatino on Via Luca della Robbia 84.

so much a part of the daily routine in the area, came to an end after 10 weeks. Despite being handed back the freedom of unrestricted travel anywhere in the Lazio region, Romans remained cautious, even when faced with the irrestible opportunity to wander through an empty Rome. AS Roma football legend and local hero Francesco Totti wasted little time in finally realising “his dream” of strolling to the Trevi Fountain without being recognised, thanks to his mask. On 18 May bars, restaurants and hairdressers began to reopen, under strict rules. Supermarket queues became easier with the resumption of full-time opening hours, although entry is still controlled by “bouncers” and masks remain obligatory. Shopfronts are festooned with new guidelines, cashiers are protected by plexiglass and bars have stickers on the floor pointing to the Entrata and Uscita. Churches across Italy have been allowed to resume public liturgies including Mass, weddings and baptisms, while several museums also reopened in the days after 18 May. As millions of people went back to work, traffic returned and with it the perennial difficulty of finding parking spaces. The background chatter and trill of birds has been replaced with the low growl of engines and exhaust.

Rome’s public transport has always been problematic but now it faces unprecedented challenges, particularly on the metro and in the suburbs. The required thinning-out of crowds to accommodate social distancing means that in order to catch the first metro into town from Anagnina in the south-eastern periphery, commuters must arrive at the station hours in advance, waiting in line as early as 03.00. One lady in her 60s, a cleaner, told local media: “It now takes me three hours to get into town to do three hours’ work.” The city’s mayor Virginia Raggi has promised additional night buses and pledged that the metro will bring forward its 05.30 start to meet demand. Paolo Di Stefano is the owner of Da Bucatino, a bustling trattoria in the heart of the Testaccio district, which he has run since the 1990s. An intimate venue, Da Bucatino is best known for trussing up diners in outsized bibs for plates of its messy signature dish, bucatini all’amatriciana. It is all part of the fun, or at least it was. This level of intimacy has been wiped out by the coronavirus regulations which have also carried away half of the restaurant’s tables and chairs. Gone too is the popular antipasti buffet. “We’re trying to get going again, all of us are working in masks” – Di Stefano told Wanted in Rome – “customers can take their masks off while seated but once they leave the table the mask must Wanted in Rome • June 2020 | 5

were never ordered to close during the lockdown, most of them remain shut due to a lack of guests. A shortage of customers is not something that concerns those employed in the hair and beauty industry. After more than two months of hibernation there are endless locks to trim, roots to dye and dodgy home-haircuts to fix. Near the Pyramid of Cestius is a thriving barbershop built up over the last five years by a hard-working Calabrian called Pietro Clemensi. These days his clients line up outside as he and his assistant Cristiano shear the backlog of bushy-haired men in the S. Saba neighbourhood. Clemensi reopened on 18 May, a Monday of all days, after having his 36-sqm premises sanitised professionally. Paolo Di Stefano taking orders at Da Bucatino.

go back on.” Families can sit close together, he says, but friends must maintain distance at the table. “We’ve made disposable paper versions of the menu which is also available in digital format,” Di Stefano says, adding that other changes include disposable condiments, bread in sealed bags, and a major emphasis on hand sanitiser. The restaurant has also branched into home delivery, for the time being, to supplement its fall-off in trade. The reduction in tables, with its obvious strain on restaurants’ finances, is less of a problem for the larger premises. It does however represent a significant logistical and financial headache for Rome’s smaller establishments, many of which have chosen not to reopen, citing the impossibility of making ends meet under the new rules and lack of custom. To this end, the city has granted the use of up to 35 per cent extra outdoor space outside businesses and has suspended the collection of local taxes for the use of public soil throughout 2020. As Italy prepares for a tentative return to international tourism on 3 June, Rome’s mayor has been busy plugging the capital as a tourist destination for Italians, describing it as a “safe city.” The Lazio region permitted the reopening of swimming pools on 25 May while this year’s beach season began officially on 29 May, all under the strict new rules of course. All nonhotel accommodation facilities in Lazio, including guest houses, holiday homes and hostels, have been allowed to reopen. Although Rome’s hotels 6 | June 2020 • Wanted in Rome

“I’ve had to stock up on masks and disinfectant, a hand sanitiser dispenser at the door and disposable gowns for hair-cutting, constantly sterilising the tools of the trade,” Clemensi told Wanted in Rome. Gone are the days when clients could just drop in casually: barbers, hairdressers and beauticians are now obliged to take appointments exclusively over the phone. Customers and staff must wear masks, with Clemensi separating his clients by almost two metres while their hair is being cut. “For health reasons this barbershop is not currently offering beard services because I consider it risky right now” – said Clemensi – “The customer would have to remove his mask and even if the guidelines allow this, I think it’s a mistake.” Masks and advance booking are also the order of the day at the handful of Rome museums now open again. Galleria Borghese, the Capitoline Museums and Palazzo Braschi have opened their doors in recent days, with the Vatican Museums and the Colosseum to follow suit on 1 June. The Raphael blockbuster at the Scuderie del Quirinale reopens on 2 June while the other “exhibition of the year” – The Torlonia Marbles at Palazzo Caffarelli has been postponed, possibly until September. Italy’s National Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia is working towards a reopening date of 9 June, with measures to include physical distancing, thermoscanners, reservations and staggered entries. “The museum does not present any particular accessibility problems and we trust that visits will be pleasant and, apart from the mask, not too different from before the coronavirus,” Villa Giulia’s director

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COVID-19

Pietro Clemensi at Barberia Clemensi on Viale della Piramide Cestia 19.

Valentino Nizzo told Wanted in Rome. Throughout the lockdown Villa Giulia maintained a highly visible presence on social media, steered by Nizzo, with the museum and its dynamic online activities picked up by the international press. Inevitably the anti-contagion restrictions have dealt a hammer blow to the city’s summer festivals, leading to the cancellation of Rock in Roma and Roma Summer Fest, both of which have moved their music programmes to 2021. Likewise the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma has abandoned its historic summer venue at the Baths of Caracalla which was described as “incompatible” with the new rules by opera house sovrintendente Carlo Fuortes. Fortunately all is not lost however as plans are at an advanced stage to host opera productions at Piazza di Siena in the central Villa Borghese park, whose ample space allows for social distancing (see page 39 for more details of festivals). One plucky Roman festival is bucking the trend and has vowed that the show must go on. Il Cinema in Piazza will “scrupulously respect all safety rules” says Valerio Carocci, the president of the Piccolo Cinema America association which organises the annual event at Trastevere’s Piazza S. Cosimato and two other locations. Carocci says that this year’s festival will move forward by a month, from July to August, in recognition that many Roman families are broke due to the crisis and will be unable to take Ferragosto holidays. “Rome in August will never have been so beautiful,” says Carocci. 8 | June 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Gino Bottigliero does not share this optimism. As the owner of Rome’s oldest Irish pub, The Fiddler’s Elbow, Bottigliero has seen generations of expats pass through his doors since 1976. His business has been devastated by the coronavirus. Following their complete closure for more than two months, Rome’s newly-reopened pubs are left grappling with a paradox: although legally allowed to serve drinks, their customers are not permitted to “gather” inside or outside, with police patrolling the streets to break up crowds. The capacity of the Fiddler’s Elbow has been reduced to a third. It plans to gradually extend its current reduced opening hours – 16.00 until 21.00 – until midnight. All employees have been laid off temporarily, with the owners back working behind the bar. “We didn’t receive any help from the state up to today” – Bottigliero says – “and neither did the staff.” “Business is extremely slow” – he says – “only a few regulars are supporting us. People are still afraid to come out.” The handful of loyal customers sit on stools spaced far apart outside the door of the pub perched on a little hill near S. Maria Maggiore. Asked about the future, Bottigliero is despondent, predicting it will be “pretty bad” but with hopes of a slow recovery, particularly when tourists return. “Restrictions will be there for a long time” – he says – “Maybe we’ll have to take a second wave of the virus. Normality is very far away.”

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WHAT DOES THE FUTURE LOOK LIKE FOR REAL ESTATE IN ITALY

Andrea Toscano talks to Wanted in Rome about the current situation of the Italian real estate sector as it deals with the fallout from the coronavirus lockdown Marco Venturini

All our commercial resources are always supported by the marketing division that deals with business promotion, communication and marketing of our services. We also have our Toscano Lab that deals with the training and recruiting of our junior and senior personnel.

You are the managing director of Gruppo Toscano Spa, one of the largest and most important real estate agencies in Italy. Would you give us a general panorama of the group and the services it offers. We started 37 years ago and we deal mainly with real estate brokerage. Over the years we have grown from a small local Roman firm to a national one. The core business is developed by two main companies: Toscano Spa which specialises in real estate brokerage, and Gruppo Toscano Spa which is dedicated to the development of the Toscano brand and franchise. We therefore have a network of directly controlled agencies that allow us to improve working methods and operational tools, with constant training of human resources. Everything is then made available to the affiliate network. 10 | June 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Through the other specialised companies we offer a 360-degree service for those who want to sell or buy any type of property: • Toscano Mutui is the Toscano Group company specialising in the credit brokerage sector. • Oasi Home Design offers all the necessary services for planning and renovation. • Guidobaldi Luxury Properties is the exclusive Toscano network dedicated to the brokerage of luxury properties. What is the importance of the real estate sector in Italy and what significance does it have in terms of the country’s employment and for GDP. In Italy the real estate market represents almost a fifth of gross domestic product, with a steady growth in recent years. It couldn’t be otherwise, considering that the concept of real estate and house ownership in Italy is very strong, whether as a necessity or as an investment.

Property In terms of employment, from design to sales, our sector is growing at approximately half a million employees a year. There is still space for growth around the main players in the sector, and we are finding even more areas for growth right now. To what extent has the sector been hit by the coronavirus pandemic? The market has clearly slowed down. But after a rapid reorganisation to adapt to the new daily dynamics, visits to the apartments have resumed and are continuing online with video visits. The analysis of the research done on our website www.toscano.it clearly shows the desire of people to continue to move forward with their projects. The fact that we were ready to use new tools and new technologies really made the difference and we have had excellent results at a commercial level. We also received many thank-you messages for supporting customers in this difficult period. Is there already an estimate of the damage? Wanting to be realistic, the damage is estimated at around 20-30 per cent of the total of the real estate sector, if we consider only the lockdown period of about two months. As for restarting, much will depend on the speed with which all activities will resume.

What are the main worries of your associates? And in what way are you working to help them? We immediately adapted to change. Many questions have been asked: how can we stay in touch with our customers? How can we show the houses we have? What will be the future of our profession? We have a corporate WhatsApp Group in which we constantly communicated the groupâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s news and new strategies. Clearly it has become a fundamental means of keeping in touch with one another. We constantly meet with the sales network to give operational clarity that allows us to start quickly. We are working with even greater attention to customer care, the property portfolio and purchase requests. In addition, there were many initiatives that we put in place immediately to answer the questions that our sales network asked us, and to support them in their business: 1. We have communicated with our current customers (sellers and buyers) that we are operating and the tools we are using: - Sending newsletters to the database (over 440,000 emails).

Wanted in Rome â&#x20AC;˘ June 2020 | 11

Property

- Communication on television with a specific advertisement created for the moment. - Communication on our website. - Targeted communication on social media.

Then I personally produce videos every day in which I tell my experiences or provide practical and concrete ideas and suggestions on how to carry on the business and what to focus on.

2. We have created virtual agencies to communicate with our customers. To do this we have chosen video conference and video calling tools for direct contact with the customer.

It is a great way to be even closer to our sales network of around 600 agents throughout Italy, and to keep their morale high. The videos are shared with the whole network via WhatsApp and are also posted on social networks (YouTube, Facebook, Instagram and Linkedin) to give support to anyone interested in the topics covered.

3. We have kept online advertising active to support the sales network. 4. We have digitized all our paper forms. 5. We have provided clear and precise indications on the operational activities on which to concentrate and how to do it. 6. The training with the Toscano Lab in the Milan and Rome offices has moved completely online. So far we have carried out 20 webinars with an average of 200 participants and a rating of 4.7 out of 5. 7. We are continuing to show properties by making video calls with customers and showing them virtual tours or videos of the apartments. 12 | June 2020 â&#x20AC;˘ Wanted in Rome

In what way has the pandemic revolutionised the real estate industry in Italy? It has forced us to use more of the technology we already had. In recent years we have prepared a lot on a technological level and today we are benefiting from it. Certainly the use of digital tools will become an integral part of our way of working, for example some aspects of closing a sale will be optimised through video calls and virtual visits.

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Property We will continue to sell houses with appointments on the spot but many preparatory phases will be digitized and therefore optimised also because social distancing will still continue when the reopening starts. What are you predictions of the the coming months? Making predictions right now is pretty difficult. In the first phase it will be important to focus on the needs of buyers, on those who had a purchase planned and want to continue with their project. However investors are likely to take some time to see how the market has reacted. The three-bedroom apartment, the family home, will be most popular. Outdoor spaces, which already had value before, will be even more important after the quarantine, in particular the houses with gardens will be even more interesting. Do you think there could be a move from the large cities to the country? We have analysed the first real data taken from our internet portal on the searches that users are carrying out in the two main cities: Rome and Milan. It turns out that Rome has seen an increase of about 30 per cent in searches in the areas of Ostia, Ostia Antica, Trigoria and Infernetto, all areas on the Lazio coast. The required size is between 150 sqm and 200 sqm with garden and with a budget of €300,000-450,000. At the same time, there was a slight drop in searches in the central areas of Rome. The trend in Milan is different, where searches in the city centre are still very high, especially in the areas of Porta Romana, V Giornate and Indipendenza. We have seen an increase in searches above €1,000,000 for an area of more than 200 sqm, even if the search for two-bedroom apartments continues at the same time. In areas a little further from the centre, such as Maciachini and Frattini, the search for two-bedoom apartments has increased, with budgets between €180,000-220,000. What would you say to those who want to buy and those who want to sell or rent? 14 | June 2020 • Wanted in Rome

The people who need to sell or buy a house were motivated by specific reasons before the emergency. These are life projects which it is important to continue if possible. I would say that there will certainly be great interest in the market and we shall give total customer support. Do requests from abroad have an important place in your activities, and if so how do you think these will change post pandemic? The methods we use today with our customers in Italy were already in use with our foreign customers. The first visit was often made with a virtual tour to give customers the opportunity to see only the properties they were interested in. But foreign demand will be the last to restart as it is linked to the recovery of tourism in our country. What steps do you think the government should take to help the real estate sector? It is necessary to restart a regular work routine as soon as possible, naturally observing measures that guarantee the total safety of customers and agents. An immediate equalisation of our business with that of the other operators in the real estate chain: a real estate agent must be able to continue business and completing contracts, as is also the case for banks, notaries and credit brokers. It will also be important to have more digitised operational procedures with the state, for example, for the registration of online preliminaries. A suspension of taxes and duties would be desirable, in particular the taxes that we should pay in June. There should be strong support for private mortgages which will be needed to give oxygen to the whole sector as there is a risk of a loss of liquidity among private individuals. Banks will be more likely to favour companies, given the loans guaranteed by the state, with the risk of slowing down the payments to the private sector, which plays a fundamental role in the real estate sector.

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Art

LUCA SIGNORELLI’S FRESCO CYCLE IN ORVIETO Signorelli's beautiful and terrifying frescoes adorn the S. Brizio chapel in Orvieto's cathedral Martin Bennett

s a prelude to visiting the Sistine Chapel, one could take the train to Orvieto, an hour north of Rome, and view the frescoes which inspired Michelangelo’s Last Judgement. Arrival at Orvieto station could be quicker than queuing along the Vatican walls. Exiting the train prompts the reaction, ‘But where is it?’ Until a look upward

Detail of The Damned, or I Dannati by Luca Signorelli in Orvieto.

16 | June 2020 • Wanted in Rome

reveals the town’s older part perched on a beetling crag. A small funicular railway transports you past vineyards famous for the classic Orvieto wine; “all Italy in a bottle” goes a phrase. At the top of the funicular, take Via del Duomo to the cathedral which dominates the city’s skyline. In the S. Brizio chapel to the right of the cathedral’s

Art main altar, there they are, body after perfect body, the hard-won art of anatomy standing on its own feet, or in take-off mode, or hurtling downward. Whereas Michelangelo’s ignudi were the indirect result of strictly illegal nights spent studying corpses in Florence’s S. Spirito church morgue, Signorelli (1445-1523) who was 30 years senior to Michelangelo (1475-1564), is said to have stripped the body of his dead son (he had died of the plague) so that he could sketch it. Also instructive were the ancient statues resurfacing in Renaissance Rome and to which Signorelli as papal artist would have had privileged access. In its four panels, painted between 1499 and 1504 the figures are not just muscular; many ripple with spectacular energy and movement. Vasari (1511-1574), who as a young boy may have met the artist, praises Signorelli’s “beautiful, bizarre and fanciful invention.” English essayist, Geoff Dyer, reflecting on his 1960s childhood, sees Signorelli’s blue-green-and-or-demonic-pink figures and their sometimes bat-winged aerobatics as a prototype for the comic strip. In the first fresco, Sermon of the Antichrist, the context is mostly biblical. The background temple might be in Jerusalem, yet the eerie spindly-limbed scarabblack soldiers infesting it are of Signorelli’s time, a reference maybe to the invading French armies of 1494 and 1499. In the foreground the Antichrist’s anything-but-benign features have been linked with firebrand preacher and subsequent heretic Savonarola, until his execution in 1498 the temporary nemesis of Signorelli’s Medici patrons. Biblical and Renaissance history intertwine. Note in the audience the curly-haired Cesare Borgia, Christopher Columbus and even Dante. Hinting that the Antichrist’s sermon is hardly orthodox, is a bearded figure settling with a prostitute and, worse, at Signorelli’s feet, an assassin finalising a series of murders. Off left, Signorelli portrays himself in black robes. Hands suitably crossed, he looks partly on at the scene, partly out at us, as if in warning, a trope later adopted by Michelangelo and by Caravaggio (1571-1610). Alongside, in monk’s habit stands Fra Angelico, the painter whom Signorelli replaced in Orvieto half a century later. Into Antichrist’s ear a demon whispers to stir up maximum discord and mayhem. Accordingly in the fresco’s middle-ground the Antichrist,

Self portrait of Signorelli in Orvieto Cathedral.

exploiting his disguise, replicates a false miracle to increase his support base as he raises a patient Lazarus-like from his sickbed. Elsewhere, below the temple steps, in a more obvious act of mischief, he orders the summary execution of two prophets, Enoch and Elias. No wonder, a nearby cluster of Dominican and Franciscan monks consult the Bible to restore some theological order. Top right, flashing forward in time, Archangel Michael responds: the Antichrist’s eventual raid on heaven ends in a barrage of red rays zapping him down onto the heads of his stunned followers. In the war between good and evil, more aerial combat decorates a chapel archway. Some victims try to block their ears, for this is a painting you can hear; doom foreshortened, others tumble toward the chapel floor, fancy Renaissance fashions powerless to protect them. The other side of the archway, sibyl and prophet gesture up to various portents familiar from Revelations: ships perch on mountain-peaks, a sickle moon turns to blood, and the sun goes black above earthquake-toppled monuments, further executions. The panel depicting the Elect comes as a relief. The sky is not blue but fine-flecked gold, filled not so much with flights of angels as an orchestra. The foreground’s tautly-muscled figures stand looking blissfully upward. All the greater is the shock of the panel opposite, a hellish writhing free-for-all where green-buttocked and blue-faced devils twist, grab, whip, strangle and even bite into i Dannati. Wanted in Rome • June 2020 | 17

The Resurrection of the Flesh by Signorelli.

Signorelli choreographs a nightmare of dislocation and contortions. More disturbingly still, he sets himself centre stage; this time his face and body have turned azure, a horn spiking his forehead as he abducts a young woman. The message, presumably, is that a potential for violence exists in each of us. Echoing a thought from Marlowe’s Doctor Faustus, art critic Simon Abrahams observes of the same panel: “Hell is not some biblical fantasy in faraway place, but in our heads.” True some of the figures reprise battle scenes decorating ancient sarcophagi, one pair (devil and lost soul) based on a satyr supporting a drunken Pan, and then displayed in Cardinal Rovere’s garden behind Rome’s SS. Apostoli church. To be imitated by Michelangelo and throughout the Baroque, the overall effect of muscular cruelty and outrage is Signorelli’s own. As Vasari says, “nothing had been seen like it.”

only with craft and difficulty, they can be caused to be alive.” Beneath two archangels and various cherub-faced clouds, the first of the elect gather in harmonious groups, the three graces included, while other nudes clamber from cracks in the moonlike ground. More remarkable still is the life conferred on some equally agile upwardly-mobile skeletons engaged in the same activity. Others laugh for joy as they line up for their own coat of skin and sinews. Critics note how the skeletons, compared to those in earlier Danses macabres, are both peculiarly expressive and unprecedentedly realistic. No bone is out of place. Art proves 40 years ahead of science, accurate medical prints of skeletons not appearing until Vesalius’s De humani corporis fabrica (1542).

Commentators have remarked that as Signorelli’s project progressed, his imagination waxed more and more fantastical. One goes as far as to attribute this to the free supply of Orvietan wine stipulated, along with house, grain and 575 ducats, in the 1499 contract.

The Book of Ezekiel asks: “Can these bones live?” Signorelli, however surprisingly, responds to the question with a dramatic meticulously-delineated “Yes.” It would be hard to find a fresco cycle with a longer reach. As befits the subject matter, between one action-packed panel and the next, epochs merge with a sweep of the gaze; time, or the end of of it, takes on a new dimension.

Finally, and most phantasmagorically, to The Resurrection of the Flesh. Vasari extols Signorelli’s “true method of making nudes and how, though

Tickets for the Duomo and Chapel of S. Brizio cost €4. Opening times vary throughout the year. For visiting details see www.orvietoviva.com.

18 | June 2020 • Wanted in Rome

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Medicine and Surgery

The new English-taught Master Degree Program is designed using a multidisciplinary approach to train students to become doctors practicing in a diverse biomedical-social culture with interdisciplinary and intercultural working skills. In line with the guiding principles of Campus Bio-Medico University of Rome, the teaching is entirely patient-centred and community-centred. A deep knowledge of ethical issues is applied to the use of advanced medical technology in order to promote health-care through a humanistic approach. Students are provided with strong foundations in scientific methodology, statistics and "evidence based medicine” imparted through means of Problem-Based Learning (PBL) a method that uses complex real-world problems as the vehicle to stimulate student learning of theoretical concepts and principles as opposed to direct presentation of facts and concepts. The program is designed in such a way that its core contents anticipate and integrate the European specifications for global standards in medical education according to the World Federation on Medical Education in international basic standards and quality development of biomedical education (WFME Office, University of Copenhagen, 2007) and the Basic Medical Education WFME Global Standards for Quality Improvement - 2015 Revision (WFME Office Ferney-Voltaire, France Copenhagen, Denmark 2015).

orientamento@unicampus.it - www.unicampus.it

Tel: 06.22541.9056/8121/8715 - Via Álvaro del Portillo 21 - 00128 Roma

to do ART MUSIC FOOD NATURE CINEMA FAMILY THEATRE

Mon Tue Wed Thu 1

See the Secret The Raphael blockbuster Impressionists at Palazzo reopens at Scuderie Bonaparte show before del Quirinale. Book in it closes. advance.

Kick off June with a trip to the Capitoline Museums but book in advance.

Look to the skies as the Frecce Tricolori for Festa della Repubblica.

Explore Italy's modern art collection at GNAM near Villa Borghese.

Book your visit to see the extended Canova show at Palazzo Braschi.

Don't miss Rome's rose garden before it closes on 14 June.

Catch a spectacular view over Rome from the Fontanone on the Gianicolo.

Gaze at a long-lost Rembrandt at Galleria Corsini by booking visit.

There is no better place for sunsets than the Giardino degli Aranci.

Visit the Botanic Garden to enjoy the peace and tropical plants.

Stock up on summer See images by reading at the Anglo legendary photographer American Bookshop. Elliot Erwitt at WeGil.

Meet a friend and take a leisurely cycle along the banks of the Tiber.

Visit the MAXXI tribute to famed architect Gio Ponti but book in advance.

Pass the day exploring Ostia Antica and its rich history.

Visit the Vatican Museums but reserve in advance.

Pay your respects to Sergio Leone at the Ara Pacis show.

Foto di Mauricio A. da Pixabay

Fri

Sat 5

June Sun 2020 7

Go for an early evening bike ride on the Appia Antica outside the city walls.

Revisit a crowd-free Colosseum but book your trip in advance.

Impress your friends with a tour of S. Ignazio church and its optical illusions.

Marvel at ancient Greek and Roman art at Palazzo Massimo alle Terme.

Take the kids to see the animals at the Bioparco but book in advance.

Head out of town to see the beautiful water gardens of Villa d'Este in Tivoli.

Make the trek to S. Felice Circeo for an unforgettable beach day.

See the exhibition by celebrated US artist Jim Dine at Pala Expo.

Visit the majestic Odescalchi Castle in Bracciano north of Rome but check opening times first.

26 Reserve your visit to the magnificent Galleria Doria Pamphilj.

Take a spin around the historic centre on a new Helbiz electric scooter.

28 Book your trip to the Keats-Shelley Museum at the Spanish Steps.

Beaches TOP 10

BE ACHES N E A R RO M E For all you beach-lovers here is a selection of resorts within easy reach of Rome. Each one, ordered from north to south, offers either stabilimenti (private beaches with entrance fees and changing facilities and refreshments) or spiaggia libera (free beach with the option to rent a lounge chair and/or umbrella), and all have children’s facilities. 2020 will be far from normal for beaches, due to covid-19. Beach-goers should expect social distancing and reduced access. Check the Regione Lazio website before travelling to beaches or lakes, www.regione.lazio.it.

Sabaudia S. MARINELLA The northern-most beach on our list offers a small strip of white sandy beach with the choice of setting up camp at either the stabilimenti or spiaggia libera. There are two trains per hour leaving from Termini station for S. Marinella station and the journey takes about one hour. Popular with wind-surfers.

S. SEVERA Located about 50 km north of Rome and less than 10 km south of S. Marinella. Take one of the regular Civitavecchia trains from Rome and the beach is a ten-minute walk from the station. There are numerous stabilimenti, restaurants and spiaggia libera and it is also known for the Italia Surf Expo which takes place every July.

FREGENE A former chic hotspot of the 1960s and 1970s, Fregene boasts long stretches of sand with both stabilimenti and spiaggia libera. Along the coast there is also a wide selection of family-oriented restaurants and less expensive tavole calde. Rome’s club scene tends to flock to Fregene and nearby Ostia (see below) in the summer months. Although Fregene isn’t the easiest place to reach by public transport, Cotral buses depart from Rome’s Valle Aurelia metro stop (line A) and the journey takes about one hour.

OSTIA/CANCELLI Ostia and the Cancelli (gates) are along the coast nearest Rome. Ostia is loaded with often pricey and trendy stabilimenti, while the Cancelli offer free beaches equipped with restaurants and bathrooms. Public transport takes less than an hour and you can use the same metro/bus tickets for public transport in Rome. Take the 070 express bus from EUR, or the Roma-Lido train from Porta S. Paolo beside the Piramide metro station (line B). To reach the Cancelli get off at the last stop and take the 07 MARE bus until you reach the gates numbered 1, 2, 3 etc.

ANZIO/NETTUNO These beaches are only ten minutes apart and are easily reached from Rome. One train per hour leaves from Termini station, stopping first at Anzio and then at Nettuno. The journey takes 60-70 minutes and the beaches are about a 10-minute walk from the respective train stations.

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S. Marinella Anzio has the Blue Flag status given to beaches that meet the international quality standards for cleanliness both on the beach and in the water.

SABAUDIA Famous for its beauty and spaciousness, this stretch of beach is another Blue Flag area. Although predominantly spiaggia libera, there are a few stabilimenti to choose from. Cotral buses run from Rome’s Laurentina metro stop (line B) to Piazza Oberdan in Sabaudia. From here take the shuttle bus which runs up and down the local coastline. Sabaudia is also known for its Mussolini-era architecture.

S. FELICE CIRCEO Nearly 100 km south of Rome are the Blue Flag beaches and crystal clear waters of Circeo. Stabilimenti abound but look for the spiaggia libera nearest the port: it definitely merits the mini-trek. Cotral buses leave for Circeo from the Laurentina metro station in Rome. Get off at the last stop and walk for ten minutes until you reach the beach.

TERRACINA Located just 10 km south of Circeo. From Termini station take the hourly regional train for Naples and get off at Monte S. Biagio. From there, take the bus for about 20 minutes until you reach the beach. Terracina has as many spiagge libere as stabilimenti and both are well-kept and clean, making it a popular destination for families.

SPERLONGA The stabilimenti dominate this gorgeous getaway with picturesque views and Blue Flag status, leaving only narrow strips for the spiaggia libera. Take the regional train headed to Naples from Termini station and get off at Fondi-Sperlonga. Once there, take the Piazzoli bus for 20 minutes to Sperlonga, alternatively take a private taxi but be warned they are far more expensive than the €1.50 bus ticket.

GAETA This Blue Flag area has a quaint mediaeval town to explore and clean beaches. From Termini station take one of the frequent trains headed towards Naples, get off at Formia and take the bus for another 25 minutes until you reach Gaeta. For more information about transportation consult the Cotral and Trenitalia websites www.cotralspa.it, www.trenitalia.it.

Medicine Pools TOP 10

OU T DO O R P O O LS I N RO M E Come mid-summer in Rome, most of us are in need of the cool of an outdoor pool to relax by. But Rome isn’t awash with them and most are part of privately- owned swimming and sports clubs or upmarket hotels. Expect to pay upwards of €40 a day per person for entry to exquisitely chic surroundings at the top end of the spectrum, and at least €10 for perfectly adequate but som times crowded and scruffy cheaper pools. We’ve picked ten of Rome’s best, from New York-style rooftop pools with to-die-for views over the city and a nice line in cocktails to family-friendly cheap and cheerful clubs. The € symbols represent ranking by price.

Piscina delle rose

Radisson SAS Hotel

1. ALDROVANDI PALACE

7. HYDROMANIA

Small and very select city-centre oasis, La Ranocchia (meaning “little frog”) is shaded by overhanging palms and huge cream parasols. Arrive early as space is limited around this pool. Mon-Sun 10.00-19.30. Mon-Sat €55, Sun €60, weekly pass €350. Via Ulisse Aldrovandi 15 (Parioli), tel. 063223993, www.aldrovandi.com. €€€€

Think miles of water slides, wave machines, pools, South-Pacific-style thatched bars, shops and a mini-club. Weekdays 09.30-18.30, weekends 09.30-19.30. Daily adult rate €24, kids €19. Half day rates €19/17. Casal Lumbroso 33 (Aurelio), tel. 0666183183, www.hydromania.it. €€

2. BELLE ARTI

8. PISCINA DELLE ROSE

Free at weekends and well worth a mention for its fantastic central location tucked behind a church on Via Flaminia. A quiet atmosphere makes it good for those with very young children. Mon-Fri 07.00-21.00. €15. Sat 07.00-20.00, Sun 08.00-20.00. €25. Children aged 7-13 accompanied by adult pay €10 week day / €15 weekend. Via Flaminia 158 (Flaminio), tel. 063226529, www.circolotennisbellearti.it. €€

Large pool perfect for families, swimming and canoeing lessons. Mon-Fri 09.00-21.00, weekends 09.00-19.00 (€16 per day, €14 half-day). Viale America 20 (EUR), tel. 065926717, www.piscinadellerose.it. €€

3. CAVALIERI HILTON This Olympic-sized outdoor pool-witha-view is the crème de la crème of Rome’s pools if you like serious swimming. It’s large, luxurious and well worth the trip to Monte Mario. With a separate children’s pool. 08.00-19.00 daily (weekdays €40, weekends €80, sun lounger and towel included). Via Alberto Cadlolo 101 (Monte Mario), tel. 0635091, www.cavalieri-hilton.it. €€€€€

4. CIRCOLO VALENTINI Slightly shabby but friendly, family-run pool, used by locals. The adjoining restaurant will make up a lunchtime salad for around €4. 09.00-19.00 (weekdays €10, half-day €7, weekends €14/€10). Via della Marcigliana 597, corner Via Bufalotta (Talenti/Prati Fiscali), tel. 0687120207, www.circolovalentini.it. €

9. RADISSON SAS HOTEL Seriously smart and stunning heated rooftop swimming pool with sections for children and adults and poolside fine dining. 09.00-19.00 (adults €65 Mon-Fri, €90 Sat-Sun, children 50 per cent off ). Via Filippo Turati 171 (Esquilino), tel. 06444841, www.radissonblu.com/eshotel-rome. €€€€

10. S.S.D. VITA Professional, outdoor swimming pool arranges lessons for children and adults and has tennis courts and a gym. Mon-Fri 07.00-21.30. €12 daily. Sat 07.00-20.00. Sun 08.00-20.00. €15 daily rate weekend. Children aged 10 upwards pay adult rate. Kids aged 5-10 €8, kids under 5 free. Via del Fontanile Arenato 66 (Aurelio), tel. 066634202, www.vitaclub.it. €

5. CLUB LANCIANI A large tennis club with an outdoor pool offering lessons, free swimming and a children’s summer school. Weekdays 09.30-18.30, weekends 09.30-19.30. Adults €10.50/15, kids €7.50/11. Via di Pietralata 135 (Tiburtino), tel. 064181401, www.clublanciani.eu. €€

6. GRAND HOTEL GIANICOLO Part of a luxury hotel, this pool is located in elegant surroundings with palm trees and views of Trastevere from the Gianicolo hill. Lunch and dinner served at pool-side restaurant. 09.00-19.00, weekdays €25, weekend rate €35. Via delle Mura Gianicolensi 107 (Gianicolo), tel. 0658333405, www.grandhotelgianicolo.it. €€

Hydromania

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LAGO DI ALBANO This volcanic crater lake presents visitors with beautiful views of its clear water and surrounding forests. The picturesque towns along the shores serve as popular summer resort areas for Romans, including Castel Gandolfo, home to the summer papal palace whose gardens were recently opened to the public. On the other side of the lake is Palazzolo, a villa bought by Rome’s Venerable English College in 1920 and now open to guests. The towns surrounding the lake are known for their restaurants, shops and fruit farms. Swimming, fishing and boating are among the favourite activities for visitors, and the lake’s beach is located on the western shore. A simple 45-minute train ride from Termini, visitors can reach Lago Albano by taking the FL4 train towards Albano Laziale and getting off at the Castel Gandolfo stop.

around rome

LAGO DI BOLSENA Located on the site of the Vulsini volcano, dormant since about 100 BC, this crater lake has two islands and is surrounded by rolling hills and vegetation. The area around Montefisascone on the southeast shore of the lake is famous for its Est! Est!! Est!!! wine. The town of Bolsena in the northeast is a popular tourist resort in summer and it is here that the famous so-called Eucharistic Miracle took place in 1263 when a Bohemian priest is said to have seen blood coming from the host that he had just consecrated at Mass. Capodimonte on the southwest of the lake is also worth a visit. The lakeside area provides activities for sports and nature enthusiasts all year round. The best way to reach Lago di Bolsena from Rome is by car, as buses to Bolsena from Termini Station are infrequent.

LAGO DI NEMI Lago di Nemi is a small and unique volcanic lake where divers in the 19th century discovered two large ships built for the notorious Roman emperor Caligula at the bottom of the lake, filled withbottom of the lake, filled with artworks and treasures. Replicas of the ships along with other artefacts are on display at the nearby Museum of Roman Ships. Travellers can also visit the natural caves around the lake, which were a favourite haunt of 19th-century foreign artists such as Turner. Nemi is associated with the cult of the Roman goddess Diana, and, for the last 80 years, an annual strawberry festival. Visitors can reach the lake by taking the SS7 Appia southbound as far as Genzano, and then following signs for Nemi.

LAGO DI BRACCIANO Just north-west of Rome along the Via Cassia, Lake Bracciano is one of the most easily accessible lakes for Romans. The ban on motor boats (except for a little ferry) means it remains an ideal spot for swimming, sailing and canoeing. The Lega Navale operates a dinghy sailing school in Anguillara. Churches and historic sites are located in the three small towns around the lake: Bracciano, Trevignano and Anguillara. There are also places for camping and horse riding tours by the lake, which is just an hour on the Viterbo train line from Rome’s Ostiense station. The lake is overlooked by the 15th-century Orsini-Odescalchi castle in Bracciano, often chosen as the venue for jet-set weddings, and there is also an air force museum at nearby Vigna di Valle.

LAGO DI VICO Formed by the volcanic activity of Mount Venus, Lago di Vico offers a unique geological backdrop set amid lush woodland and hills. The surrounding nature reserve is a haven for wildlife, but what is most characteristic of the area are the hazel and chestnut plantations. Lakeside campsites and hotels offer swimming, sailing and horse riding. The two towns worth a visit are Ronciglione and Caprarola with its magnificent and recently restored Villa Farnese. Lago di Vico is a 90-minute drive from Rome taking the SS2 Cassia, and turning north at Sutri.

LAGO DI MARTIGNANO This tiny volcanic lake just to the east of Lake Bracciano offers clean water and beaches with scenic views of the surrounding meadows and wildlife. Lago di Martignano is known for its outdoor activities such as horse riding, hiking, mountain biking and swimming. Umbrellas, loungers and luggage storage are available to rent along with canoes, sailboats and windsurfing equipment. It is also known for the hot sulphurous springs surrounding the lake. Arriving at Lago di Martignano by car is the easiest option. Reaching the lake by public transport involves taking the FM3 train to Cesano and opting for either a local bus or taxi.

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Wanted in Rome • april 2017 | 4

ARTandSEEK Please note that not all of these activites English-language culturaldue workshops visits to are currently open, to theand covid-19 museums and exhibitions for children in Rome. For crisis. It is advisable to check websites event details tel. 3315524440, email artandseekforfor visiting details and make reservation kids@gmail.com, or see website, www.artandsebefore going. ekforkids.com. Bioparco Rome's Bioparco has over 1,000 animals and offers special activities for children and their families at weekends and during the summer. When little legs get tired, take a ride around the zoo on an electric train. Open daily. Viale del Giardino Zoologico 20 (Villa Borghese), tel. 063608211, www.bioparco.it. Bowling Silvestri This sports club has an 18-hole mini golf course, with good facilities for children aged 4 and over, adults and disabled children.

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There are also tennis courts, a table tennis room and a pizzeria. Via G. Zoega 6 (Monteverde/Bravetta), tel. 0666158206, www.bowlingsilvestri.com. Casa del Parco Eco-friendly workshops, in Italian, in which kids can learn about nature and how to care for the environment. Located in the Valle dei Casali nature park. Via del Casaletto 400, tel. 3475540409, www.valledeicasali.com. Casina di Raffaello Play centre in Villa Borghese offering a programme of animated lectures, creative workshops, cultural projects and educational activities for children from the age of three. Tues-Fri 14.30, Sat-Sun 11.00 and 17.00. Viale della Casina di Raffaello (Porta Pinciana), tel. 060608, www.casinadiraffaello.it.

Cinecittà World This 25-hectare theme park dedicated to the magic of cinema features high-tech attractions, real and virtual roller coasters, aquatic shows such as Super Splash, giant elephant rides and attractions with cinematic special effects. Located about 10 km from EUR, south of Rome. Via di Castel Romano, S.S. 148 Pontina, www.cinecittaworld.it. Climbing Associazione Sportiva Climbing Side. Basic and competitive climbing courses for 6-18 year olds. Tues, Thurs. Via Cristoforo Colombo 1800 (Torrino/Mostacciano), tel. 3356525473. Explora The 2,000-sqm Children’s Museum organises creative workshops for small children in addition to holding regular animated lectures, games and meetings with authors of children’s books. Via Flaminia 80/86, tel. 063613776, www.mdbr.it. Go-karting Club Kartroma is a circuit with go-karts for children over 9 and two-seater karts for an adult and a child under 8. Closed Mon. For details see website. Via della Muratella (Ponte Galeria), tel. 0665004962, www.kartroma.it. Gymboree This children's centre caters to little people aged from 0-5 years, offering Play and Learn activities, music, art, baby play, school skills and even English theatre arts. Gymboree @ Chiostro del Bramante (Piazza Navona), Via Arco della Pace 5, www.gymbo.it. Hortis Urbis Association providing hands-on horticultural workshops for children, usually in Italian but sometimes in English, in the Appia Antica park. Weekend activities include sowing seeds, cultivating plants and harvesting vegetables. Junior gardeners must be accompanied by a parent or guardian. Via Appia Antica 42/50, www.hortusurbis.it. Il Nido Based in Testaccio, this association supports expectant mothers, parents, babies and small children. It holds regular educational and social events, many of them in English. Via Marmorata 169 (Testaccio), tel. 0657300707, www.associazioneilnido.it.

Luneur Located in the southern EUR suburb, Luneur is Italy’s oldest amusement park. Highlights include ferris wheel, roller coaster, carousel horses, bamboo tunnel, maze, giant swing and a Wizard of Oz-style farm. Aimed at children aged up to 12. Entry fee €2.50, payable in person or online. Via delle Tre Fontane 100, www.luneurpark.it. Rainbow Magicland The 38 attractions at Rome's biggest theme park are divided into three categories: brave, everyone, and kids. Highlights include down-hill rafting, a water roller coaster through Mayan-style pyramids, and the Shock launch coaster. Located in Valmonte, south-east of the capital. Via della Pace, 00038 Valmontone, www.rainbowmagicland.it. Time Elevator A virtual reality, multi-sensorial 5-D cinema experience with a motion-base platform, bringing the history of Rome to life in an accessible and fun way. The time-machine's commentary is available in six languages including English. Daily 11.00-19.30. €12 adults, €9 kids. Via dei SS. Apostoli 20, tel. 0669921823, www.time-elevator.it. Zoomarine This amusement and aquatic park outside Rome offers performances with dolphins, parrots and other animals for children of all ages. It is also possible to rent little play carts. Children under 10 must be accompanied by an adult. Via Casablanca 61, Torvaianica, Pomezia, tel. 0691534, www.zoomarine.it.

Wanted in Rome • June 2020 | 27

Rome’s street artart capital continues to to grow with newnew murals by important Italian and Rome'sreputation reputationasasananimportant important street capital continues grow with murals by important Italian international streetstreet artistsartists appearing all the all time. the works located the suburbs, often far often from the and international appearing theMost time.ofMost of theare works are in located in the suburbs, far centre. Here is where to is find Rome’s mainthe street artstreet projects murals. from the centre. Here where to find main artand projects and murals around Rome. Esquilino Esquilino Murals Murals byby Alice Alice Pasquini, Pasquini, Gio Gio Pistone, Nicola Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Alessandrini, Diamond. Diamond. Casa Casa dell’Architettura, dell'Architettura, Piazza Fanti 47. PiazzaMafredo Manfredo Fanti 47. Marconi Marconi The The M.A.G.R. M.A.G.R. (Museo (Museo Abusivo Abusivo Gestito Gestitodai daiRom), Rom),a aproject projectby byFrench French street artistSeth Seth is located in a street artist is located in a former Via Antonio former soap factory soap factory on Viaon Antonio AvogaAvogadro, opposite dro, opposite Ostiense'sOstiense’s landmark landmark Gasometro. details see Gasometro. For For details see www.999contemporary.com. www.999contemporary.com. Museodell’Altro dell’Altroe edell’Altrove dell’Altrovedidi Museo Metropoliz Metropoliz This former former meat meat factory factory inin the the This outskirts of of Rome art outskirts Rome isis now nowa astreet street museum being home hometoto art museumasaswell well as as being some200 200squatting squatters,migrants. many of The them some migrants. The Museo dell’Altrodi e Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove dell’Altroveor diMAAM, Metropoliz, or MAAM, Metropoliz, is only open only open Saturdays, and onis Saturdays, andon features the work the work of moreincluding than 300 offeatures more than 300 artists artists including Gio Edoardo Kobra,Edoardo Gio Kobra, Pistone, Pistone, Sten&Lex Diamond.and See Sten&Lex, Pablo and Echaurren MAAM Facebook page for details. Borondo. See MAAM Facebook page Via Prenestina 913. for details. Via Prenestina 913. Ostiense Ostiense Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Porto Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Fluviale. Porto Fluviale. Fish’n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via Fish’n’Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale. del Porto Fluviale. Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali. Magazzini Generali. Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense Via Ostiense. underpass, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense. Pigneto Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Pigneto Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71. Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.

28 | June 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Via Via Fanfulla Fanfulla da da Lodi. Lodi. 2501 mural on Fortebraccio. Via Fortebraccio. 2501 mural on Via Blu by Sten Blu Landscape Landscape by Sten & & Lex. Lex. Via Via Francesco Baracca. Francesco Baracca. Prati Prati Anna Magnaniportrait portrait by Diavù. Anna Magnani by Diavù. Nuovo Nuovo MercatoViaTrionfale, Via Mercato Trionfale, Andrea Doria. Andrea Doria. theSabotino. bear by Daniza the bear byDaniza ROA. Via ROA. Via Sabotino. Primavalle Primavalle The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via Cristoforo Numai. Cristoforo Numai. Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Theseus stabbing the Bembo. Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo. Quadraro Quadraro Tunnel murals by Mr THOMS and Gio Tunnel byMure. Mr THOMS and Pistone. murals Via Decio Gio Decio Mure. Via del NidoPistone. di Vespe Via by Lucamaleonte. Nido didel Vespe by Lucamaleonte. Via Monte Grano. del Monte Baby Hulkdel byGrano. Ron English. Via dei Baby PisoniHulk 89. by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89. Rebibbia Rebibbia Murals by Blu. Via Ciciliano and Via Via Murals by Blu. Palombini (Casal dèCiciliano Pazzi). and Via Palombini dè Pazzi). Welcome to(Casal Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Metro B station. Metro B station. S. Basilio S.SanBa Basilio features large-scale works on SanBa features large-scale works the façades of social-housing blockson in the of social-housing blocks the façades disadvantaged north-east suburb of in the disadvantaged north-east S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regenerasuburb of S.includes Basilio works near Rebibbia. tion project by Italian The project artistsregeneration Agostino Iacurci, Hitnesincludes and Blu works by Spain's ItalianLiqen. artistsViaAgostino alongside Maiolati, Iacurci, Hitnes and BluVia alongside Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Arcevia, Spain’s Via Treia.Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, Via Treia. S. Giovanni Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via S.Apulia Giovanni corner of Via Farsalo. Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.

It’s aa New NewDay Daybyby Alice Pasquini. It’s Alice Pasquini. Via Via Anton Ludovico. Anton Ludovico. S. Lorenzo Lorenzo S. AlicePasquini. Pasquini. ViaSabelli. dei Sabelli. Alice Via dei Feminicidemural mural Elisa Feminicide by Elisaby Caracciolo. Caracciolo. Via Dei Sardi.Via Dei Sardi. Viadei Volsci159. Borondo. Via deiVolsci 159. Borondo. Mural by by Agostino AgostinoIacurci Iacurci on Mural on the the Istituto Superiore di Lattanzio, Vittorio Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia. Via Aquilonia. Pietro S. Pietro UmaCabra Cabra Bordalo II. Stazione Uma byby Bordalo II. Stazione di S. Pietro, di Monte di S. Clivo Pietro, Clivo del di Gallo. Monte del Gallo. Testaccio Hunted Wolf by ROA. Via Galvani. Testaccio #KindComments AliceVia Pasquini, Via Hunted Wolf bybyROA. Galvani. Volta, Testaccio market. #KindComments by Alice Pasquini, Via Volta, Testaccio market. Tor Pignattara Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta. Tor Pignattara Etnik. Via Bartolomeo Perestrello 51. Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta. Coffee Etam Cru. Via Ludovico Etnik.Break ViabyBartolomeo Perestrello Pavoni. 51. Coﬀee Break by Etam Cru. Via Tom SawyerPavoni. by Jef Aerosol. Via Gabrio Ludovico Serbelloni. Tom Sawyer by Jef Aerosol. Via Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema Gabrio Serbelloni. Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Galeazzo Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Alessi. Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Herakut. Via Capua 14. Galeazzo Alessi. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Herakut. Via Capua 14. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Tor Marancia The Big City Life scheme features 14-m Tormurals Marancia tall by 22 Italian and internaThe Big City artists Life scheme features tional street including Mr 14-m tall by Jerico. 22 Italian and Klevra, Seth,murals Gaia and The idea international street was to transform theartists area's including blocks of Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia and Jerico. flats into an open-air art museum. Via TheMarancia. idea was to transform the area’s Tor www.bigcity.life.it. blocks of ﬂats into an open-air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. For full details see website, www.bigcity.life.it.

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth. Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

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ROME'S MAJOR

MUSEUMS PLEASE NOTE THAT NOT ALL OF THESE MUSEUMS ARE CURRENTLY OPEN, DUE TO THE COVID-19 CRISIS. IT IS ADVISABLE TO CHECK WEBSITES FOR VISITING DETAILS AND MAKE RESERVATION BEFORE GOING.

VATICAN MUSEUMS

Crypta Balbi

Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums

Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

STATE MUSEUMS Baths of Diocletian

Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Borghese Museum

Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

30 | June 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian. Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's modern art collection. Mon closed.

MAXXI

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.

S Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS Casa di Goethe

CITY MUSEUMS

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Centrale Montemartini

Chiostro Del Bramante

Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

tudy abroad or earn your degree in Rome

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun.

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Galleria Colonna

Capitoline Museums

Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.

All classes in English Scholarships availableGiorgio de Chirico House Museum MATTATOIO MACRO Asilo

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space until the end of 2019. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Accepting applications Fall 2020 Museofor di Roma – Palazzo Braschi Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking.

Keats-Shelley House

Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking.

Museo storico della Liberazione

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it. Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from 1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.

Museo Canonica

MUSJA

Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).

Museo Napoleonico

Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.

Privately owned museum dedicated to modern and contemporary Italian and international art. Via dei Chiavari 7, tel. 0668210213, www.musja.it.

Palazzo Merulana

Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it. Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection, including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation. 09.00-20.00. Tues closed.

www.johncabot.edu admissions@johncabot.edu

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MAXXI amazes you, ROME'S MAJOR always art

architecture MUSEUMS design photography cinema Crypta Balbi

PLEASE NOTE THAT NOT ALL OF THESE MUSEUMS ARE CURRENTLY OPEN, DUE TO THE COVID-19 CRISIS. IT IS ADVISABLE TO CHECK WEBSITES FOR VISITING DETAILS AND MAKE RESERVATION BEFORE GOING.

VATICAN MUSEUMS Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums

Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

STATE MUSEUMS Baths of Diocletian

Borghese Museum

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

32 | June 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's modern art collection. Mon closed.

MAXXI

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS Casa di Goethe

CITY MUSEUMS

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Centrale Montemartini

Chiostro Del Bramante

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Galleria Colonna

Capitoline Museums

Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

MACRO Asilo

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space until the end of 2019. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.

MATTATOIO

Giorgio de Chirico House Museum

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

Keats-Shelley House

Museo storico della Liberazione

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Museo Canonica

MUSJA

Museo Napoleonico

Privately owned museum dedicated to modern and contemporary Italian and international art. Via dei Chiavari 7, tel. 0668210213, www.musja.it.

Palazzo Merulana

Wanted in Rome • June 2020 | 33

PLEASE NOTE THAT NOT ALL OF THESE GALLERIES ARE CURRENTLY OPEN, DUE TO THE COVID-19 CRISIS. IT IS ADVISABLE TO CHECK WEBSITES FOR VISITING DETAILS AND TO MAKE RESERVATION BEFORE GOING.

ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY

ART GALLERIES

1/9 Unosunove

1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.

A.A.M. Architettura

Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ff-maam.it.

Contemporary Cluster

Visual art, design, architecture, fashion design and beauty apothecary in a 17th-century palace. Via dei Barbieri 7, tel. 0668805928, www.contemporarycluster.com.

C.R.E.T.A.

Cultural association promoting ceramics and the visual, humanistic, musical and culinary arts through workshops, exhibitions and artist residencies. Palazzo Delfini, Via dei Delfini 17, tel. 0689827701, www.cretarome.com.

Dorothy Circus Gallery

Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.

Ex Elettrofonica

This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.

Fondazione Memmo

Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.

Fondazione Pastificio Cerere

This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pastificiocerere.com.

Fondazione Volume!

The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.

34 | June 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Franz Paludetto

Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.

Frutta

This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via dei Salumi 53 tel. 0645508934, www.fruttagallery.com.

Gagosian Gallery

The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

GALLA

Exhibition space designed to showcase original, unconventional art works at affordable prices by artists working in various fields. Via degli Zingari 28, tel. 3476552515, www.facebook.com/GALLAmonti.

Galleria Alessandro Bonomo

Gallery showing the works of important Italian and international visual artists. Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858, www.bonomogallery.com.

Galleria Valentina Bonomo

Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works specifically for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte

Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Galleria della Tartaruga

Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.

Galleria Il Segno

Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.

Galleria Mucciaccia

Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.

Galleria Russo

Operativa Arte Contemporanea

A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.

Pian de Giullari

This historic gallery holds group and solo exhibitions showcasing the work of major 20th-century Italian painters alongside promising new Italian artists. Via Alibert 20, tel. 066789949, www.galleriarusso.it.

Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.

Galleria Varsi

Plus Arte Puls

A dynamic gallery near Campo deâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di Grotta Pinta 38, tel. 066865415, www.galleriavarsi.it.

Gavin Brown's Enterprise

New York gallerist Gavin Brown shows the work of international artists at his Trastevere gallery in a deconsecrated church dating to the eighth century. S. Andrea de Scaphis, Via dei Vascellari 69, www.gavinbrown.biz.

Il Ponte Contemporanea

Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls.com.

RvB ARTS

Rome-based gallery specialising in affordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www.rvbarts.com.

Sala 1

Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via Giuseppe Acerbi 31A, tel. 0653098768, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.

This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.

La Nuova Pesa

S.T. Foto libreria galleria

Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.

Magazzino dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Arte Moderna

Contemporary art gallery that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.

Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri

The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.

T293

Monitor

The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it.

Nero Gallery

The Gallery Apart

Space dedicated to showcasing young international artists working in pop surrealism, lowbrow art, dark art, comic art and surrealism. Via Castruccio Castracane 9, tel. 0627801418, www.nerogallery.com.

This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.

Nomas Foundation

TraleVolte

This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, t el. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.

Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.

Contemporary art gallery focusing on the relationship between art and architecture, hosting solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org.

White Noise Gallery

Based in the S. Lorenzo district, this gallery exhibits unconventional work by young Italian and international artists. Via della Seggiola 9, tel. 066832833, www.whitenoisegallery.it.

Wunderkammern

This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www.wunderkammern.net.

Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin

Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria offers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it. Wanted in Rome â&#x20AC;˘ June 2020 | 35

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where to go in Rome WHAT’S ON

The Raphael blockbuster reopens at Scuderie del Quirinale. See page 38 for details.

Wanted in Rome • June 2020 | 37

EXHIBITIONS METAFORAMORFOSES 25 June-25 July

The Dorothy Circus Gallery reopens after lockdown with Metaforamorfoses, an exhibition by the Brazilian artist Rafael Silveira. Themed around the opportunities presented by change, the show will feature 12 oil paintings rich in symbology and the joyful colours typical of South American culture. In line with Italy’s social distancing measures the exhibition will be open by appointment only. Dorothy Circus Gallery, Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 68805928, www. dorothycircusgallery.it.

RAPHAEL

2 June-30 Aug

This “unprecedented” exhibition dedicated to Raffaello Sanzio da Urbino, better known as Raphael, to mark the 500th anniversary of the death of the High Renaissance artist and architect has reopened at the Scuderie del Quirinale. The show was closed just days after opening in March, due to Italy’s covid-19 lockdown, and it is now open strictly by appointment,

38 | June 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Mind the Gap by Rafael Silveira at Dorothy Circus Gallery.

with masks obligatory. The blockbuster show features more than 200 masterpieces – never before gathered in the same place – including paintings and sketches as well as comparison works. About 100 of the works are by Raphael himself, with 40 paintings on loan from the Uffizi in Florence and others from major world museums. The exhibition includes the Madonna del Granduca and Woman with a Veil from the Uffizi; the Portrait of Baldassarre Castiglione and Self-Portrait with Friend from the Louvre, and the Madonna of the Rose from the Prado. Scuderie del Quirinale, Via XXIV Maggio 16, tel. 0292897722, www.scuderiequirinale.it.

REMBRANDT AT GALLERIA CORSINI 2 June-30 Sept

Galleria Corsini showcases Rembrandt’s Self Portrait as St Paul, in an historic return for the masterpiece which has not been seen in Rome for more than two centuries. The painting, on loan from the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam, originally belonged to the noble Corsini family but was sold to art dealers – apparently without the knowledge of Prince Tomasso Corsini – during the French occupation of 1799. The exhibition also includes a selection of engravings by Rembrandt from the Corsini collection. For visiting details

see website. Galleria Corsini, Via della Lungara 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org.

C'ERA UNA VOLTA SERGIO LEONE 2 JUNE-30 AUG

Rome pays tribute to the celebrated Italian film director, producer and screenwriter Sergio Leone (19291989) with an exhibition at the Ara Pacis museum. Known primarily for popularising the Spaghetti Western genre with films such as The Good, The Bad and The Ugly and Once Upon a Time in the West, Leone is also credited with influencing a new generation of directors, notably Quentin Tarantino. Organised by the Cineteca di Bologna, produced and curated in collaboration with the Cinémathèque Française and the Istituto Luce Cinecittà, the "multisensory exhibition" offers insights into Leone's cult films as well as his personal and professional life. Museo dell'Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta, tel. 060608, www. arapacis.it.

JIM DINE

19 MAY-26 JULY

Palazzo delle Esposizioni pays tribute to Jim Dine, the celebrated American exponent of Pop art and the Neo-Dada movement, with an exhibition of around 80 works created between 1959 and 2016. The show also includes the works donated to the Centre George Pompidou by Dine who was elected as an academician by Rome's prestigious Accademia Nazionale di S. Luca in 2018. Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Via Nazionale 194, tel. 06696271, www.palazzoesposizioni.it.

Rome), Philippe Rahm (architect, former fellow at the French Academy - Villa Medici and currently residing in Rome) and Rolf Sachs (Swiss artist and designer who recently established a studio in Rome). Exhibition by appointment only, for details see website. Via Fontanella Borghese 56/b, www.fondazionememmo.it.

ELLIOTT ERWITT: ICONS 19 May-12 July

Around 70 of the best known images by Elliott Erwitt, one of the world’s great masters of contemporary photography, are on display at WeGil, the cultural hub of the Lazio region in Rome’s Trastevere district. Erwitt has captured some of the most important moments in 20thcentury history, from the meeting between Nixon and Khrushchev to the image of Jackie Kennedy at her husband’s funeral. Among the photographs on display in Rome are portraits of Che Guevara, Marlene Dietrich and Marilyn Monroe. The exhibition also includes images which illustrate a more intimate side to the photographer, with a nod to his love of the surreal and romantic, including the celebrated California Kiss, selfportraits and photographs of his firstborn baby girl. For visiting details see website. WeGil, Largo Ascianghi 5, Trastevere, www.wegil.it.

Rembrandt's Self-Portrait as St Paul at Galleria Corsini.

CANOVA: ETERNA BELLEZZA 19 MAY-21 JUNE

Palazzo Braschi stages an exhibition of works by Italian neoclassical sculptor Antonio Canova (1757-1822), regarded by many as the greatest of the neoclassical artists. Canova is best known for his magnificent marble sculptures such as Amore e Psiche, Tre Grazie and Paolina Borghese. The exhibition includes more than 170 works by Canova and his contemporaries. Piazza Navona 2, tel. 060608, www. museodiroma.it.

CONVERSATION PIECE: PART VI 19 May-30 June

Under the subtitle title Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, doesn’t go away, Fondazione Memmo presents Conversation Piece | Part VI, the latest installment in its cycle of exhibitions dedicated to Italian and foreign contemporary artists at Rome’s cultural academies. The exhibiting artists are Corinna Gosmaro (American Academy in

The Canova exhibition at Palazzo Braschi has reopened after the covid-19 lockdown.

Wanted in Rome • June 2020 | 39

40 | June 2020 â&#x20AC;¢ Wanted in Rome

FESTIVALS Summer music and opera festivals have become another casualty of the covid-19 pandemic. Planning has been extremely difficult not just because dates have been uncertain but also because the difficulties of travel have thrown schedules for international artists up in the air. However almost all festivals just can't wait to get going again, adapting as best they can to the new distancing conditions. But programmes are changing all the time so check

RAVENNA FESTIVAL

21 June-30 July, 6-15 Nov

This festival is going ahead in a brave effort to put the covid-19 pandemic behind us. Riccardo Muti, who is the force behind the festival, conducts the opening concert at the Rocca Brancaleone with the 60 members of his orchestra the Luigi Cherubini Youth Orchestra and soloist Rosa Feola on 21 June with music by Scriabin and Mozart. The festival organisation is planning 40 events and the full programme will be on the festival website. All social distancing regulations will be in force, with strictly controlled access to each location. Wearing masks will be compulsory. The November opera festival from 6-15 Nov spotlights Dante Alighieri 700 years after his death in Ravenna in 1321 in Project Dante, the divine the human and the diabolical. It begins with three performances (6, 10, 13 Nov) by the controversial dancer Sergej Polunin (the man with a Vladimir Putin tattoo on his chest who was fired by the Paris Opera Ballet in 2019), followed by two operas, Mozart’s Don Giovanni (7, 11, 14 Nov) and Gounod’s Faust (8, 12, 15 Nov). www.ravennafestival.org.

the festival's website and the usual social media channels. Even then uncertainty remains. For example the Verona Arena festival website www. arena.it says that the 2020 programme has been moved to summer 2021, but now it is announcing a programme of special events. Check both the websites and Instagram for updates. What we do know in date order:

also considering a production of Il Barbiere di Siviglia and ballet by Roland Petit to the music of Pink Floyd. This has caused consternation among the Amici di Villa Borghese who fear damage to the historic park from large scale events of this nature, particularly in Piazza Siena. The last opera in the park in 1995 caused considerable damage as did the last rock concert in 2010. Since then events like this have been banned. The website of the Teatro dell’Opera www.operaroma. it isn’t always updated quickly but now the site finally has the list of its impressive digital programmes online. These are a goldmine for opera lovers and they are available on RaiPlay. Some can also be seen on YouTube for those who cannot access RaiPlay.

MACERATA OPERA FESTIVAL 17 July-9 Aug

There is no news that this is not going ahead in the open-air sterisferio stadium in Macerata so cross your fingers. The theme as originally announced this year is Biancoraggio and the three programmed operas

Tosca, Don Giovanni and Il Trovatore will portray three different types of courage. Tosca is a new production by Argentinian director Valentina Carrasco, who directed Bizet’s Carmen at the Baths of Caracalla for the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma several years ago and Verdi’s Vespres Siciliennes which opened the 20192020 season at the Rome opera last December. www.sferisterio.it.

INCONTRI IN TERRA DI SIENA 21 July-29 July

This exclusive and very top-quality festival in and around the house and grounds of La Foce, belonging

TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA July

The usual summer season at the Baths of Caracalla has been cancelled but the opera theatre has announced performances of Verdi’s Rigoletto conducted by Daniele Gatti and directed by Damiano Michieletto at Piazza di Siena in Villa Borghese in July. The Teatro dell’Opera is

Incontri in Terra di Siena takes place each year at La Foce.

Wanted in Rome • June 2020 | 41

Puccini Festival at Torre del Lago.

to the family of Iris Origo, is going ahead with seven concerts. These will be either in the grounds of La Foce itself or surrounding churches and theatres. The programme is as always unusual and the performers are at the top of their game. Usually dinner is also available, as are other events in the vicinity, but these have yet to be confirmed. www.itslafoce.org.

PUCCINI OPERA FESTIVAL July and Aug

The Puccini festival at Torre del Lago near Lucca continues, with three Puccini operas as per usual. There will be six recitals of new productions of Tosca, Madama Butterfly and Gianni Schicchi, as well as various concerts and other events. Antonio Pappano conducting the S. Cecilia orchestra will perform on 28 July. The events, which include compositions by young composers inspired by Tosca, will take place at Torre del Lago as well as other places in the vicinity. The original 2020 programme will be moved to 2021. www.puccinifestival.it.

RAVELLO FESTIVAL 11 Aug

Ravello Festival on the Amalfi coast is always late to announce its programme each year so this year is

42 | June 2020 • Wanted in Rome

no exception. But if it goes ahead the festival’s concerts and performances in Villa Rufolo perched above Amalfi are always worth the wait. The dawn concert, which is the most spectacular, popular and fashionable is supposed to be on 11 Aug. www.ravellofestival.com.

ROSSINI OPERA FESTIVAL 8-20 Aug

The festival goes ahead in Pesaro with a new production of La cambiale di matrimonio (8, 11, 13, 17, 20 Aug) at the Teatro Rossini with the orchestra in the stalls and the audience in the boxes. It will be conducted by Dmitry Korchak, in his debut as the conductor of the Orchestra Sinfonica Rossini. It is a co-production with Royal Opera House Muscat and will be staged there in Jan 2021. The last performance on 20 Aug will be streamed live on the website www. rossinioperafestival.it and in Pesaro’s Piazza del Popolo as per tradition. Il Viaggio a Reims will also be staged in the square as will various concerts with an impressive list of Rossini singers, Olga Peretyatko, Jessica Pratt and Juan Diego Florez among them. More details will be released on the festival’s website www.rossinioperafestival.it. Moïse e Pharaon and Elisabetta Regina d’Inghilterra which were on the

original programme postponed until 2021.

have

been

FESTIVAL DEI DUE MONDI 27-30 Aug

The famous Spoleto festival is usually held in July. This year the 2020 season has been cancelled but the festival’s board is considering scheduling some events over four days at the end of August. There may also be events during the weekend before 27 Aug. Tickets will be at a discount. www.festivaldispoleto.com.

MITO SETTEMBRE MUSICA 3-21 Sept

Milan and Turin, two of the cities worst hit by the covid-19 pandemic, usually stage an ambitious series of concerts every September. The website mitosettembremusica.it says bravely “See you in September” but at the moment there are no details and it is showing short excerpts from its 2019 concerts to give you some idea of what to expect if these were “normal” times. www. mitosettembremusica.it.

UMBRIA JAZZ FESTIVAL

This July festival in Perugia each year is entirely dedicated to jazz, but the whole of this year’s programme has been moved to 2021. www.umbriajazz.it.

PROVIDING AN OUTSTANDING BRITISH EDUCATION TO ROME’S INTERNATIONAL COMMUNITY SINCE 1958

LEARN MORE ADMISSIONS@STGEORGE.SCHOOL.IT TEL: +39 06 3086001 WWW.STGEORGE.SCHOOL.IT Wanted in Rome • June 2020 | 43

Ezio Bosso: 1971-15 May 2020

“Music chose me, I didn't choose music.” “Music is not classical, it's freedom.” “Music is silence, the silence that creates the tension between the notes.” These are just a few of the memorable ways that Ezio Bosso, who died in Bologna on 15 May, used to describe his feelings about music. Although severely disabled towards the end and with difficulty speaking Bosso was able to communicate his passion for music to everyone who came in contact with him. Bosso had a dynamic television personality, explaining a complicated piece of classical music with great simplicity to anyone listening. There was absolutely no doubt about his passion for the subject. His whole face would light up with his infectious smile whenever he was talking or playing the piano. When he conducted he threw himself into it with astonishing force. All his concerts were sell-outs and even a quick check on YouTube shows that he attracted enormous audiences. His compositions – “I am not a composer, I am a writer of music” was another phrase of his – sometimes had echoes of John Cage, Philip Glass or Ludovico Einaudi – but with his own intense emotions driving it forward, whether with joy or melancholy. Just looking at the titles of his works gives an idea of the feelings behind them, The 12th Room (an album which was a sell-out), The Rain in your Black Eyes, Split, postcards from far away, Following

44 | June 2020 • Wanted in Rome

a Bird, Bach was in another room, Six Breaths (for six cellos first played at the top of Col Margherita in the Alps) and many more. Beethoven and Bach were two of his passions, passions that he managed to hand on to all who listened to him. Bosso's father was a tram driver, his mother worked for Fiat. He was born in Turin and started playing the piano when he was four. He began his musical career as a double bass player with a rhythm and blues band before turning to classical music. In 2011 after an operation to remove a brain tumour he started to suffer from a neurodegenerative syndrome. But his career seemed to move forward with lightening speed, with concerts – whether as conductor or pianist or both – compositions for dance, theatre, cinema and opera, symphonies, duos, trios, quartets and more. It was only in September 2019 that he had to give up playing his beloved piano. Bosso drew people in and opened up classical music for all. Anyone who listened to him or saw him came away with a new insight into the often mysterious and sometimes elite world of classical music. "Sorridere a una persona di certo non gli cambi la vita, ma sicuramente gli fai vivere una giornata migliore e una giornata migliore ti può cambiare la vita!" (E.B.)

lassical lassical

The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a definitive list of all the music that is available in the city. The following is a list of the main musical There are also concerts in many of the associations in Rome but it is not a definitive churches and sometimes in the museums. list of all the music that is available in the city. There are also concerts in many of the Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della churches and sometimes in the museums. Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Auditorium Conciliazione, ViaP. de della Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Accademia Filarmonica Teatro Auditorium Parco della Romana, Musica, Viale P. de Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro starts on 15 Oct Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season concerts Parco della Musica. The startsat onAuditorium 15 Oct newAccademia season startsS. on 5Cecilia, Oct www.santacecilia.it. All concerts Universitaria at Auditorium Parco della Musica. Istituzione dei Concerti, AulaThe newUniversità season starts on 5 Oct www.concertiiuc.it Magna, la Sapienza,

Istituzione Universitaria deiGonfalone Concerti,32a, Aula Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it www.oratoriogonfalone.com Oratorio delMethodist Gonfalone, Via delPiazza Gonfalone 32a, RomeConcerts, Church, Ponte www.oratoriogonfalone.com S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it RomeConcerts, Piazza Ponte Roma Sinfonietta, Methodist AuditoriumChurch, Ennio Morricone, S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Roma Auditorium Roma Tre Sinfonietta, Orchestra, some concertsEnnio are atMorricone, Teatro Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others at Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are are at Teatro the Aula Magna, Piazza Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, 8, Palladium, Bartolomeo Romano Universita Roma Tre, Via while Ostienze teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, others234, are at www.r30.org the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Tre,festivals Via Ostienze 234, There are oftenRoma concerts, and opera www.r30.org recitals in several churches in Rome.

often concerts, festivals and153, opera All There Saints' are Anglican Church, Via Babuino recitals in several churches in Rome. www.allsaintsrome.org All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. www.allsaintsrome.org Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7 Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com

Oratorio del Caravita, Caravita St Paul's Within the Walls,Via Viadella Nazionale and7 the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the S. Agnese Sagrestia del Borromini, corner ofin ViaAgone, Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it Piazza Navona S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Palazzo PiazzaDoria NavonaPamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum Serenades by Night Dinner throughout and Opera dinner afterwards. Viawith del Corso 305, the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum www.doriapamphilj.com and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com | Jan 2019 • Wanted Rome 50 |48 Oct 2018 • Wanted in in Rome

MUSIC MUSIC THEATR THEATRE CINEMA CINEMA VENUES VENUES

MUSIC THEATRE CINEMA DANCE OPERA

inema inema

The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wantedshow in Rome website for The following cinemas movies in English weekly updates. or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for Adriano, Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 weeklyPiazza updates. Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 0686391361 Barberini, Piazza BarberiniMastroianni 24-26, 1, tel. Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello 0686391361 tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it 068553485 Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 068553485 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 066861068 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 066861068 Odeon, Piazza Stefano 22, tel. Nuovo Sacher, LargoJacini Ascianghi 1, 0686391361 tel. 065818116

Space Moderno, Piazza della 44, tel. Odeon, Piazza Stefano JaciniRepubblica 22, tel. 0686391361 06892111 Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebec06892111 chini 3-5, tel. 06892111 Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111 Wanted in Rome • May 2020 | 45

ddance oopera p pop r ock r ance

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano www.teatrovascello.it 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it

pera

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

ock

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Concert venues ranging from major pop and Alexanderplatz, 9, tel. 0683775604 rock groups to Via jazzOstia and acoustic gigs. www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org Angelo Mai Via Atlantico delle Terme di Atlantico, VialeAltrove, dell’Oceano 271d, Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it

Atlantico, Viale Atlantico Auditorium Parcodell’Oceano della Musica, Viale 271d, P. de tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com Auditorium della Viale de Casa del Jazz, Parco Viale di PortaMusica, Ardeatina 55,P.tel. Coubertin,www.casajazz.it tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com 06704731,

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

heatre heatre

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net www.teatrobelli.it Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobelli.it www.teatrobrancaccio.it Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatrobrancaccio.it www.teatroghione.it Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. www.teatroghione.it 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net 50 | Jan 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com Lanificio 159,ViaVia di Pietralata 159, Live Alcazar, Cardinale Merry del Valtel. 14, 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com Live Alcazar, Merry del 35, Val 14, Monk Club, Via ViaCardinale Giuseppe Mirri tel. tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com 0664850987, www.monkroma.it Monk Club, ViaPiazzale Giuseppe Mirri 35,1, tel. PalaLottomatica, dello Sport tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it PalaLottomatica, Piazzale Sport 1, tel. Rock in Roma, Via Appiadello Nuova 1245, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it www.teatrosangenesio.it Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsiwww.teatrosangenesio.it stina.it Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.ilsistina.it www.teatrovascello.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Vittoria,www.teatrovascello.it Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. tel. 065898031, 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Wanted in2018 Rome • May 2020 | 47 51 | Oct • Wanted in Rome

Wanted in Rome | December 2017

An Education for Life that will make the diďŹ&#x20AC;erence

Castelli International School

International Elementary and Middle School

www.castelli-international.it

ITALY READS AND ITALY WRITES AT JCU John Cabot University holds an annual Creative Writing contest to recognize excellence in Italian high school students whose primary language of instruction is not English. Italy Writes began in 2011 as the first “sister” of the 10-year Italy Reads program. A variety of Activities for High Schools followed. Seeded by an NEA grant for The Big Read Rome in 2009, JCU has since offered this annual program of English language reading and cultural exchange that brings American university students together with Italian high school students. Each year, a work of American literature is the focus of discussions, student projects and meetings, public events, and theatrical performances by The English Theatre of Rome. The winning piece for non-fiction this year is about Walt Whitman and American Impressionism. Walt Whitman’s Leaves of Grass was this year’s focus of Italy Reads. Next year, the focus will be on Rachel Carson's ground breaking book for environmentalism Silent Spring. Find out more at Italy Reads and Italy Writes on the John Cabot website www.johncabot.edu.

BRUSHES AND WORDS: AMERICAN IMPRESSIONISM AND WHITMAN By Cecilia Federici, Liceo Scientifico G. B. Morgagni, Rome, 1st Place, Non-Fiction. Once Henri Matisse said “Impressionism is the newspaper of the soul” and, as such, it is always changing and shaping in unexpected forms. So is Whitman’s poetry, always trying to capture an impression of reality. From an ideological, conceptual and stylistic way, analogies between the American movement and the poet can be easily found. One of the most interesting of Whitman’s dilemmas is life, and the way it is connected to identity. “I meet new Walt Whitmans every day. There are a dozen of me afloat. I don’t know which Walt Whitman I am”, life is something growing and dynamic, it is the accumulation of senses. Identity, as life, is the summary of all the experiences one has gone through, it is an eternal adding process. And here is the origin of diversity: no one has experienced the same as every other person in this world has. So how can an individual be part of a society formed by strangers who have poor in common with him/her? He/she can be, and must be, part of that society because all of them have surely one thing in common: they are all human beings, and as human beings they are inevitably linked by democracy “I say democracy is [...] the highest form of interaction between men”. Democracy for Whitman

50 | May 2020 • Wanted in Rome

is not only “...for election, for politics, and for a party name”, democracy is the “ideological blood” of human society. It should permeate every aspect of human life. In this sense he relates democracy to art: he creates the concept of democratic art, an art where no discrimination is allowed, an art where everyone is equal to the others. So how can a form of art be more unequivocal than photography? Photography has the greatest power of indiscrimination: what’s in the lens is what the public is going to see, no more alteration, modification or adjustment to the reality. The Impressionist concept of art is very similar to Whitman’s “democratic art”: their idea was to capture one single moment that’s unrepeatable. Both the French and the American Impressionists preferred portraying everyday settings rather than imposing a stricter and more classical style to their paintings. But the Americans went for a more “American setting” than their companions in France: despite their French mentors “privileged form and color over subject matter”, the American counterpart adopted the example of Renoir, on their canvas the deep depiction of the transformation of the American society prevailed. Artists like Childe Hassam in Just Off the Avenue,

Fifty-third Street (1916) or John Twatchman in Winter Harmony (c. 1890/1900) are the perfect example of the American spirit put on canvas: from a city setting with the USA flag to a winter landscape, these two portraits release a fresh American breeze. The celebration of America is also a cherished theme for Whitman, who dedicates his entire poem Leaves of Grass to its glorification. It is this sense of community Whitman creates that conveys his love for his country. This sense of inclusion, of affinity, is heightened by a single yet so crucial word in “I celebrate myself”: you. It is incredible how three letters put together can express so much, the deeprooted power a word can have. I celebrate myself, and what I assume, you shall assume Who is you? Is he/she the reader? Yes, of course, but it can be all the readers who read, are reading and will read Whitman’s poetry; he can be your lover, or a stranger; she can be an American, or a foreigner; he could be poor, or rich, she could be a carpenter, or the president, it doesn’t matter, because Whitman is referring to all of them. This poem is one of the most egalitarian verses ever written in all human history, it’s a democratic you, who puts all of us on the same level. American Impressionism shared this idea: just consider William Merritt Chase or John Singer Sargent’s landscapes and portraits. Their ordinariness is key to their modernity: the characters depicted in the paintings could be anyone, if not for the title. The important feature is not the character, but the painting itself; as in “I celebrate myself” it is not important who is you, but the universal feeling that embraces us all. Another reason why “you and I are the same” is eradicated in the idea of compost, a concept very dear to Whitman. Compost is related to the idea of recycling, it is the fertilizer, it is death becoming life. Whitman asks himself how is that possible for the human race, for America, to live, to walk, on death? How is it possible not to be sickened by the contact with nature? Why should nature give us other chances? Compost derives from the Latin word com-ponere, which means put together. Things have to be broken down before others can be born. It is also this deep knowledge of the English language and its shades that enables Whitman to express so much in a few verses: it is the exact selection of the words that allows his message to be so immediate and so pure at the same time. The theme of the cycle of life and death is an intimate topic for one of the most known American Impressionists: the bridge between the Ancient and the New World, the woman who mesmerized generations of humans with her work: Mary Cassatt. Widely known for her scenes of private life, she usually portrayed images of mothers and children because she was not allowed in the same places as her male comrades. Her bond to death is sadly linked to the death of her beloved sister, Lydia: despite the fact that she pictured mother-and-child scenes even before the event, after Lydia’s death it became her main subject,

Lydia was an inspiration to the painter. Usually Mary’s mothers do not look into the observer’s eyes, they are turned, sometimes seated on a chair, as if we, the onlookers, were intruders in a holy, sacred scene. Portraying these scenes of familiar lives is as if Mary could have her dearest sister back. Her extremely gentle characters, the choice of the colours not too bright, warm; the brushes so careful, the expression of the babies allowed her to be the legend she’s become. In conclusion, it is clear how many analogies exist between Whitman and the American Impressionists, from the ideas, to the concepts to the style — both have taught the world how to look at reality. Art flows more easily when you are not thinking about what 'should' be in it or how it 'should' be done. The Impressionists taught us to look and see, not assume. Walter Darby Bannard You shall no longer take things at second or third hand, not look through the eyes of the dead, nor feed on the spectres in books. You shall not look through my eyes either, nor take things from me. You shall listen to all sides and filter them from yourself. Walt Whitman Selected bibliography Whitman, Walt. Poetry and Prose. The Library of America, Justin Kaplan ed., New York, 1982. Whitman, Walt. Democratic Vistas. University of Iowa Press, Ed Folsom ed., Iowa City, 2010. Traubel, Horace; Sculley, Bradley. With Walt Whitman in Camden: January 21 to April 7, 1889. University of Pennsylvania Press, Philadelphia, 2016. Kummings, Donald D.; A companion to Whitman. Wiley-Blackwell , Hoboken, NJ, 2009. Smith, Dinitia. “A Voice Out of the Silence: Imagining the Other Cassatt”. The New York Times. March 4, 2002. American Impressionism https://www.theartstory.org/movement/americanimpressionism/#nav

Cecilia Federici

Wanted in Rome • May 2020 | 51

ITALY READS AND ITALY WRITES AT JCU

“Civil War”

By Giulia Alberini, IIS Tommaso Salvini, Rome, 1st Place Fiction. The piercing and high-pitched sound of the alarm wakes me up from my troubled and haunted sleep. My eyes scan attentively the room and follow my companions’ rapid and methodical actions. We are all used to the procedures which precede a battle: as we sleep dressed up with the uniform, we just have to put on the bulletproof vest and the helmet; the weapons are all stacked one on the top of the other next to the exit-door, so that we can get them as quickly as possible before running out. The commanders bring their groups either to the assigned foxhole or to a truck and give the instructions for the mission. Today it happens to be my first undercovered attack, right in the center of the city. I get on the old and trembling truck, and I sit in the corner, right behind the driver. The figures around me start becoming blurred and the only sound I can hear is the creaking of the cobblestones under the wheels. Robert, who is sitting in front of me, gently touches my knee and I realize that I have been staring at him for too long. “I am sorry” are the words which come out of my mouth, even though his question has not been processed by my brain. He looks at me worried, and asks me again, more slowly: “Are you scared?”. These words provoke a thrill down my back, but I decide to ignore it and reply: “I am. It would be senseless not to be, don’t you think? We are facing an unknown future, and nothing depends on us: maybe we will lose everything in a few seconds, without even having the possibility to realize it, or maybe we will return to our homes sooner than we think. We can’t control our lives in this moment, therefore yes, I am scared. But I am also ready to fight until my breathing stops, because this is what I am here for and I am not going to give up without even trying to win.” The moment I finish talking, the brakes abruptly stop the motion of the vehicle. I look at the faces of my comrades and I realize my speech helped them to acquire more confidence and determination. Laura jumps out of the restricted back side of the truck, and each and every one of us follows her immediately, apparently fearless. The air is filled up with tension and adrenaline. A surreal and fearful tranquility surrounds us: the city seems to be completely uninhabited and abandoned. Suddenly the prolonged and rhythmic scream of a weeping child breaks the silence drenched with fear and terror. My heart stops for an infinite time and my mind runs to a safe and familiar place, far away from the one where I find myself: home. The soft breeze of the Scottish highlands suddenly caresses my face, my hands and ruffles my curly and rusty hair. The pungent odor of the wet grass insinuates into my nostrils, while the warmth of shy and weak rays of sun spreads from head to toes in my body. I perceive a quite heavy weight in my arms and, as soon as I look down to my chest, I see an infant feeding from my breast: she has thin and coppery hair just like mine, which tickle my skin softly. When the child realizes I'm staring at her, she looks at me with big, chestnut

52 | May 2020 • Wanted in Rome

eyes and a crystalline and clear laugh gladdens the atmosphere. Unfortunately, in the moment in which a huge cloud obscures the sun, the baby starts crying desperately. I close my eyes, trying to abstract myself from the sudden change of vibe. When I open my eyes, the gloomy and oppressive atmosphere has not changed but the sobbing of the child has disappeared, as the baby herself. I feel my eyes watery, as if an entire river of tears has to pour on my pale cheeks. The weight of the baby has been replaced by a heavy rifle, to which I am holding tightly as if my whole life depends on it. The poignant cry of the baby is now the one of my comrades, lying in pain on the ground. The sound which brought me back to reality was the booming of shotguns from the enemy, and the memory of my daughter had been abruptly wiped out. I tie up my hair, ready to fight this useless and aimless battle. Way too many people have already died due to this war and the rattling of the soldiers around me is suggesting me that today there will be as many victims as yesterday, if not more. Suddenly, I realize that Robert, my only friend in the army, is crawling on the ground to reach his gun, leaving behind him a trace of blood. I run towards him, a shadow hidden by the dust rising from the sand which covers the streets. As I turn his body, I notice a giant wound in his abdomen, which appears to be extremely serious and painful. “Rob, stay with me! We will get out of here, both of us, I promise. You just need to stay with me!” I shriek, feeling the tears wetting my eyes. I put my arm around his neck, trying to pull him up, but I am not strong enough and his heavy and agonizing body weighs on my minute and weak figure. After a few moments of uncertainty the heartbreaking decision of leaving him there prevails over my affection for him: he immediately grasps my indecision and tries to tell me something. As I move my ear closer to his mouth, in order to hear his last words, I feel a sudden and acute back pain. My hand reaches my spine and it finds itself covered in warm and copious blood... I close my eyes, and I can finally see my husband William again, keeping our baby safely in his arms.

Giulia Alberini

agorski

By Kate Z

FETTUCCINE AGLIO, OLIO, BACCALÀ E PECORINO Baccalà is cod which has been preserved by first salting and then drying so the crusty hunks of fish must be rehydrated and desalted by soaking them in cold water for at least 24 hours with regular rinsing. In Rome baccalà is traditionally eaten on a Friday when it will generally be served with ceci (chickpeas, which also need a good soak before cooking). The rinsing and cleaning is a bit of a fuss so many of the city’s delicatessens will sell ready-soaked fillets of baccalà on Thursdays and Friday; look out for them by the doorway, submerged in large tanks of water. The bright white fillets are often prepared either pan-fried or baked, while Rome’s takeaway shops and pizzerie will serve them battered and deep fried. This recipe blends the tradition of baccalà with the classic pasta recipe of aglio, olio e peperoncino (oil, garlic and chili) and mixes the cod with a hefty sprinkling of pecorino romano to thicken the sauce. Romans are usually horrified by the idea of pairing fish and cheese together but this recipe is a good way to convince them that it works perfectly. Pair the dish with a well-structured dry white wine which will stand up to the strong flavours of baccalà and pecorino. A good local choice from Lazio is the organic white Capolemole by Marco Carpineti.

Ingredients Serves 2 • 250g of desalted baccalà • 2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley (about 1 large fillet) • Half a glass of white wine • 180g fresh fettuccine • 2 handfuls of grated pecorino romano • 1 clove of garlic • Extra virgin olive oil • 1 fresh red chili

The first thing to do is taste the baccalà, occasionally it is not completely desalted so if this is the case rinse it in cold running water for a few minutes to remove the excess salt. Chop the baccalà into small cubes and finely chop the parsley, chili and garlic. Heat a generous splash of olive oil in a non-stick pan and gently fry the garlic and chilli until soft, then add the parsley and baccalà. The baccalà will lose some liquid, once this has begun to dry out add the white wine and cook for a few more minutes until the alcohol has evaporated. Make sure there is still some liquid left in the pan. Meanwhile cook the pasta. A couple of minutes before the end of cooking time, drain, add to the frying pan and finish cooking in the sauce until al dente. Once the pasta is cooked turn off the heat and add the pecorino, stirring all the while, to thicken the sauce. Serve immediately. Wanted in Rome • May 2020 | 53

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Associations American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com Daughters of the American Revolution Pax Romana Chapter NSDAR paxromana@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com

International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490, www.iwcofrome.it Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 3338466820 Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Woman’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com

Books The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified. Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 Anglo American Bookshop Via delle Vite 102, tel. 066795222 Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it

Religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881 Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish)

56 | May 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484 Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com Otherwise Via del Governo Vecchio, tel. 066879825, www.otherwisebookshop.com St Patrick’s English-Language Lending Library Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 0688818727, Sun 10.00-12.30, Tues 10.00-14.00, Wed 15.00-18.00, Thurs 11.00-15.30 Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 3332284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday Service 10.30

Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei SS. Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Roma Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic) Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00

Support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.com Archè (HIV+children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/06582045580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 3381675680

Transport • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157066645-064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it

St Isidore College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic), Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827, www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri” Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022

Chiamaroma 24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Emergency numbers • • • • • • •

Ambulance tel. 118 Carabinieri tel. 112 Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 Fire brigade tel. 115 Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 Police tel. 113 Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355

Wanted in Rome - June 2020

Articles inside

CULTURAL VENUES

ITALY READS AND ITALY

MUSEUMS

ART GALLERIES

Beaches near rome

Lakes around rome

FESTIVALS

STREET ART guide

ROME FOR children

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