Wanted in Rome - June 2023

8.

EDITORIALS MISCELLANY WHAT'S ON

DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: Marco Venturini

EDITRICE: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9

PROGETTO GRAFICO: Dali Studio Srl

IMPAGINAZIONE: Simona Castellari

STAMPA: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c.

DIFFUSIONE: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425.

Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131del 6/3/1985.

Finito di stampare il 31/05/2023

CURRENTLY SUSPENDED

Copies are on sale at:

Newsstands in Rome

Anglo American Bookstore, Via della Vite 27

Wanted in Rome, Via di Monserrato 49

Wanted in Rome

Via di Monserrato 49 - tel. 066867967

advertising@wantedinrome.com

editorial@wantedinrome.com

www.wantedinrome.com

www.wantedinmilan.com

Detail of Verve, the ceiling painting by Bridget Riley in the foyer of the British School at Rome, Via Antonio Gramsci 61, www.bsr.ac.uk.

Photo by Antonio Masiello/Getty Images.

CONTENTS

22 EXHIBITIONS

8 STARBUCKS TAKES A GAMBLE IN ROME

26 opera

4

HOW TO GET AN ITALIAN PASSPORT

HOW TO GET AN ITALIAN PASSPORT

THE RED TAPE INVOLVED IN GETTING AN ITALIAN PASSPORT

After spending your first few days in Rome, it is natural that you wonder whether you could do this forever. The next question that follows is: could you…logistically?

With a non-European Union (EU) passport, you can spend 90 days in any 180-day period within the Schengen area, which includes most EU states, depending on your country of origin. But if you want to spend, say, the rest of your life here, you’ll need to have an Italian passport. The only way to get a passport is to be an Italian citizen.

Elizabeth Djinis

First let’s first discuss who qualifies for citizenship and, once you obtain that, how you can get a passport.

How to qualify for citizenship

Let’s start with a basic: if you are born to an Italian citizen mother or father, you are an Italian citizen by birth, according to the Italian government.

If you have no direct Italian citizenship in your parentage, there are still four possible ways to acquire citizenship: by marriage or civil partnership, residence in Italy, by law

in certain circumstances and, finally, by iure sanguinis or by descent.

Marriage: Those who are married to or in a civil partnership with an Italian citizen and have lived lawfully in Italy for at least two years or in another country for at least three years qualify for citizenship. If you have children who are Italian citizens, that time frame is cut in half.

In order to qualify, the marriage cannot have been annulled and you cannot be legally separated by the time citizenship is given.

Residence: Living in Italy as a legal resident for a certain amount of time can entitle you to citizenship, depending on your status and how long you have lived in the country. The rules are as follows:

If you are a foreigner with direct familial ties to an Italian citizen in your first or second generation or you were born in Italian territory and you have lived in Italy for at least three years, you qualify. If you are a foreigner over 18 years old adopted by an Italian citizen and you have lived in Italy for at least 5 years after adoption, you also qualify. If you are a foreigner employed by the Italian government for at least five years in Italy or another country, you qualify. If you are a citizen of another European Union state and have lived in Italy lawfully for at least four years, you qualify. If you are a refugee or stateless and have lived at least five years in Italy, you qualify. And, lastly, if you are a foreigner and have been lawfully resident for at least 10 years in Italy, you qualify.

If you’ve gone through all this and wonder where you stand if you have no relation to an Italian citizen, the Italian government, the EU and are not a refugee, you will need to have lived in Italy for 10 years to qualify for citizenship.

By law: If you meet certain requirements, you may qualify to be an Italian citizen without having to go through an application

process. If you have an Italian citizen as your parent or grandparent by birth and you have either completed military service in the Italian armed forces or been employed in public service by the Italian government or lived lawfully in Italy for at least two years after your 18th birthday and stated your wish to be an Italian citizen while you were still 18, you can qualify for citizenship based solely on stating your desire to be one. This also applies if you were born in Italian territory, lived there continuously until your 18th birthday and stated your wish to become an Italian citizen at the age of 18.

By descendancy: In order to become an Italian citizen based on lineage, you will need to apply to either your relevant consulate if you are outside of Italy or to the citizenship office in your local comune if you live in Italy.

To qualify, you must be of Italian descent and have a still living Italian-born ancestor who was an Italian citizen after 1861. It must also be true that none of the relatives closer to Italy than you in the family line became a naturalised citizen of another country before the birth of the next person in line, according to the Italian American Citizenship Assistance Program.

There are also important exceptions. For example, if your Italian ancestor comes from Veneto, Friuli-Venezia Giulia or Trentino-Alto Adige, they will have to have left Italy after July 16, 1920. And if your Italian ancestor

is a woman born before 1 January 1948, she can only transfer citizenship onto children and descendants born after that date.

You’ll have to prove your lineage through records, which is no easy task. You’ll need to have your Italian ancestor’s birth certificate from Italy, as well as any relevant records in the country, any naturalisation records they might have or proof that they never naturalised and any birth, marriage and death certificates from the country to which they moved. You will need these records for your entire Italian bloodline, not just the ancestor born in Italy. You’ll then need to get these records apostilled—a certification process similar to notarisation—and translate any non-Italian documents. You will then take your documents to the consulate in your country—or you can apply in Italy instead—and await your decision.

How to get a passport

Congratulations—if you’ve skipped to this

part, then you’ve probably already acquired Italian citizenship. Now you just need one thing: your actual passport.

If you’re residing in Italy and want to continue doing so, you can simply apply for a passport at your local questura, or police department, per Italian Citizenship Assistance. If you have applied for citizenship by descent and live in another country, you must be registered in the A.I.R.E. - the registry of Italians living abroad. Once you are registered, only then can you apply for an Italian passport. You will do that by booking an appointment at your relevant consulate and submitting the application form.

To apply for the actual passport, you will have to have a valid form of ID, an old Italian passport, if you are renewing, an application form, two passport-size photographs and the requisite passport fee. After all this, you can expect your passport within six weeks.

Photo credit Sergio Delle Vedove / Shutterstock.com.

STARBUCKS TAKES A GAMBLE IN ROME

AMERICAN COFFEE GIANT CONTINUES

TO EXPAND IN ITALY

Andy Devane

On a small side street near the Italian parliament in the historic centre of Rome, a queue of tourists and Italians waited to enter Italy’s newest Starbucks just after it opened on 11 May.

At breakfast time the bar was busy at the refurbished two-storey building on Via della Guglia as customers chose between Frappuc-

cino, Salted Caramel Cool and Oleato, Starbucks’ new olive oil-infused coffee drinks.

A sign over the bar in the marble-floored venue invited customers to “create the Frappuccino of your dreams”, with the option of choosing extra cookies or toppings to sprinkle on the whipped cream-topped iced coffee drink.

Starbucks opened near Italy's parliament on 11 May.

Lifestyle

The cheapest coffee on the menu is an espresso which, depending on size, is offered at €1.40 or €2.80, significantly more than the usual retail price in Rome of €1 or €1.10.

Cappuccino and Americano coffee ranges from €2.50 to €3.50 while a Chai Tea Latte will set you back between €4.50 and €5.50. There is also a selection of chocolate-covered doughnuts, croissants and cookies on offer, along with Starbucks merchandise including colourful mugs and water bottles.

The “Starbucks Montecitorio” venue is the first in the Italian capital and opened just over a year after the launch of an outlet at the Castel Romano shopping mall in the greater Rome area.

“In Rome the goal is to open many outlets, one for each district of the capital” - said Vincenzo Catrambone, general manager of Starbucks for Percassi, the coffee giant’s licensee partner in Italy - “We truly believe that many outlets will open in Rome.”

Two weeks after launching opposite the Italian parliament, Starbucks opened a smaller outlet in Termini, Rome’s main train station, in the “Food Lounge” of the upstairs Terrazza. Located near American fast food joint Five Guys, the premises is open every day from 06.00 to 21.00. At the time of writing, another Starbucks was set to launch on the ground floor of Termini station by the end of May.

The new openings in the capital come as Starbucks continues to expand in Italy, five years after launching its first Italian outlet at Piazza Cordusio in Milan.

The chain had intended to launch near the Vatican in 2020, at the former Maraldi bookshop on Via dei Bastioni di Michelangelo, however this plan was reportedly abandoned due to the covid pandemic.

There have also been rumours that Starbucks would open in Rome’s central Piazza S. Silvestro – another high-density tourist area – in the Palazzo Marignoli building that houses the flagship Apple store.

After Rome, Starbucks plans to head further south, launching in Naples and Bari, as well as in Genoa in the north.

The coffee chain is set to open 13 new outlets in Italy by the end of this year, bringing the total number in the country to 36.

Announcing the arrival of Starbucks in the capital on 11 May, newspaper La Repubblica wrote: “The American coffee giant will try to challenge the habits of Romans.” Time will tell.

Customers queue up outside Starbucks on Via della Guglia on opening day.

Starbucks in Termini Station.

Beaches

TOP 10

BEACHES NEAR ROME

For all you beach-lovers here is a selection of resorts within easy reach of Rome. Each one, ordered from north to south, o ers either stabilimenti (private beaches with entrance fees and changing facilities and refreshments) or spiaggia libera (free beach with the option to rent a lounge chair and/or umbrella), and all have children’s facilities. We also highlight the beaches that have been awarded Bandiera Blu (Blue Flag) status in 2023 for meeting the international quality standards for cleanliness.

S. MARINELLA

The northern-most beach on our list o ers a small strip of white sandy beach with the choice of setting up camp at either the stabilimenti or spiaggia libera. There are two trains per hour leaving from Termini station for S. Marinella station and the journey takes about one hour. Popular with wind-surfers.

S. SEVERA

Located about 50 km north of Rome and less than 10 km south of S. Marinella. Take one of the regular Civitavecchia trains from Rome and the beach is a ten-minute walk from the station. There are numerous stabilimenti, restaurants and spiaggia libera and it is also known for the Italia Surf Expo which takes place every July.

FREGENE

A former chic hotspot of the 1960s and 1970s, Fregene boasts long stretches of sand with both stabilimenti and spiaggia libera. Along the coast there is also a wide selection of family-oriented restaurants and less expensive tavole calde. Rome’s club scene tends to ock to Fregene and nearby Ostia (see below) in the summer months. Although Fregene isn’t the easiest place to reach by public transport, Cotral buses depart from Rome’s Valle Aurelia metro stop (line A) and the journey takes about one hour.

OSTIA/CANCELLI

Ostia and the Cancelli (gates) are along the coast nearest Rome. Ostia is loaded with often pricey and trendy stabilimenti, while the Cancelli o er free beaches equipped with restaurants and bathrooms. Public transport takes less than an hour and you can use the same metro/bus tickets for public transport in Rome. Take the 070 express bus from EUR, or the Roma-Lido train from Porta S. Paolo beside the Piramide metro station (line B). To reach the Cancelli get o at the last stop and take the 07 MARE bus until you reach the gates numbered 1, 2, 3 etc.

ANZIO/NETTUNO

These beaches are only ten minutes apart and are easily reached from Rome. One train per hour leaves from Termini station, stopping rst at Anzio ( Blue Flag 2023) and then at Nettuno. The journey takes 60-70 minutes and the beaches are about a 10-minute walk from the respective train stations.

SABAUDIA

Famous for its beauty and spaciousness. Although predominantly spiaggia libera, there are a few stabilimenti to choose from. Cotral buses run from Rome’s Laurentina metro stop (line B) to Piazza Oberdan in Sabaudia. From here take the shuttle bus which runs up and down the local coastline. Sabaudia is also known for its Mussolini-era architecture. Blue Flag 2023.

S. FELICE CIRCEO

Nearly 100 km south of Rome are the beaches and crystal clear waters of Circeo. Stabilimenti abound but look for the spiaggia libera nearest the port: it de nitely merits the mini-trek. Cotral buses leave for Circeo from the Laurentina metro station in Rome. Get o at the last stop and walk for ten minutes until you reach the beach. Blue Flag 2023.

TERRACINA

Located just 10 km south of Circeo. From Termini station take the hourly regional train for Naples and get o at Monte S. Biagio. From there, take the bus for about 20 minutes until you reach the beach. Terracina has as many spiagge libere as stabilimenti and both are well-kept and clean, making it a popular destination for families. Blue Flag 2023.

SPERLONGA

The stabilimenti dominate this gorgeous getaway with picturesque views, leaving only narrow strips for the spiaggia libera. Take the regional train headed to Naples from Termini station and get o at Fondi-Sperlonga. Once there, take the Piazzoli bus for 20 minutes to Sperlonga, alternatively take a private taxi but be warned they are far more expensive than the €1.50 bus ticket. Blue Flag 2023

GAETA

This area has a quaint mediaeval town to explore and clean beaches. From Termini station take one of the frequent trains headed towards Naples, get o at Formia and take the bus for another 25 minutes until you reach Gaeta. For more information about transportation consult the Cotral and Trenitalia websites www.cotralspa.it, www.trenitalia.it. Blue Flag 2023.

Sabaudia S. Marinella

Pools

OUTDOOR POOLS IN ROME TOP 10

Come mid-summer in Rome, most of us are in need of the cool of an outdoor pool to relax by. But Rome isn’t awash with them and most are part of privately-owned swimming and sports clubs or upmarket hotels. We’ve picked ten of Rome’s best, from New York-style rooftop pools with to-die-for views and a nice line in cocktails to family-friendly cheap and cheerful clubs. The € symbols represent ranking by price.

UK NATIONAL SETTLED IN ITALY BEFORE

1 JANUARY 2021?

Make sure your residency in Italy is easily recognised. Request your new Carta di Soggiorno Elettronica from your local Questura as soon as possible. And don’t get confused…it isn’t the same thing as your electronic ID card.

Find out more on gov.uk/livinginitaly

Small and very select city-centre oasis, La Ranocchia (meaning “little frog”) is shaded by overhanging palms and huge cream parasols. Arrive early as space is limited around this pool. Mon-Sun 10.00-19.30. Mon-Fri €45, Sat-Sun €50. 10- entry subscription €300. Via Ulisse Aldrovandi 15 (Parioli), tel. 063223993, www.aldrovandi.com. €€€€

Free at weekends and well worth a mention for its fantastic central location tucked behind a church on Via Flaminia. A quiet atmosphere makes it good for those with very young children. Mon-Fri 07.00-21.00. €15. Sat-Sun 08.00-20.00. €25. Children aged 7-13 accompanied by adult pay €10 week day / €15 weekend. Via Flaminia 158 (Flaminio), tel. 063226529, www.circolotennisbellearti.it. €€

3. CAVALIERI HILTON

This Olympic-sized outdoor pool-with-a-view is the crème de la crème of Rome’s pools if you like serious swimming. It’s large, luxurious and well worth the trip to Monte Mario. With a separate children’s pool. 09.00-19.00 daily. Weekdays €80 (adults) & €40 (children 6-11 years). Sat-Sun and bank holidays €115 (adults) & €57.50 (children 6-11 years). Via Alberto Cadlolo 101 (Monte Mario), tel. 0635091, www.cavalieri-hilton.it. €€€€€

Slightly shabby but friendly, family-run pool, used by locals. The adjoining restaurant will make up a lunchtime salad for around €4. 09.00-19.00. Weekdays €13, half-day €9, weekends €20, half-day €13. Kids 3-6 years €6. Via della Marcigliana 597, corner Via Bufalotta (Talenti/Prati Fiscali), tel. 0687120207, www.circolovalentini.it. €

A large tennis club with an outdoor pool o ering lessons, free swimming and a children’s summer school. Weekdays 10.00-18.30. Three time slots 10.00-14.00, 12.00-16.30, 14.00-18.30. Adults €9 (per time slot), kids €6. Full day adults €12, kids €8. Sat-Sun 09.00-19.30. Time slots 09.00-14.00, 14.30-19.30 (Sat only 12.00-16.30). €11 adults, €9 kids. Full day adults €16, kids €12. Via di Pietralata 135 (Tiburtino), tel. 064181401, www.clublanciani.eu. €€

6. GRAND HOTEL GIANICOLO

Part of a luxury hotel, this pool is located in elegant surroundings with palm trees and views of Trastevere from the Gianicolo hill. Lunch and dinner served at pool-side restaurant. 09.00-19.00,

weekdays €35, weekend rate €50. Via delle Mura Gianicolensi 107 (Gianicolo), tel. 0658333405, www.grandhotelgianicolo.it. €€

7. HYDROMANIA

Think miles of water slides, wave machines, pools, South-Pacic-style thatched bars, shops and a mini-club. Weekdays 09.30-18.30, weekends 09.30-19.00. Daily adult rate €25, kids up to 12 years €15. Half day rate €15. Casal Lumbroso 33 (Aurelio), tel. 0666183183, www.hydromania.it. €€

8. PISCINA DELLE ROSE

Large pool perfect for families, swimming and canoeing lessons. Open daily 9.00- 19.00. Mon-Fri €12, €10 half- day, weekends €20, €16 half-day). Kids 3-12 years €8 per day. Viale America 20 (EUR), tel. 065926717, www.piscinadellerose.it. €€

9. HOTEL ANANTARA PALAZZO NAIDI

All-inclusive treatment at an enviable location in the heart of Rome. A tranquil rooftop pool overlooks Piazza della Repubblica. Access to the gorgeous pool requires booking a spa package that comes with a 50-minute massage. Daily 10.00-19.00. €150 per person. Piazza della Repubblica 47, tel. 06489381.

10. S.S.D. VITA

Professional, outdoor swimming pool arranges lessons for children and adults and has tennis courts and a gym. Open daily 10.00-18.30. Mon-Fri €10, €8 half-day, weekends €11, €9 half-day. Kids 4-8 years €8 per day. Children aged 10 upwards pay adult rate. Kids aged 5-10 €8, kids under 5 free. Via del Fontanile Arenato 66 (Aurelio), tel. 066634202, www.vitaclub.it. €

1. ALDROVANDI PALACE

2. BELLE ARTI

4. CIRCOLO VALENTINI

5. CLUB LANCIANI

Hotel Anantara Palazzo Naidi

Piscina delle rose

ARTandSEEK

English-language cultural workshops and visits to museums and exhibitions for children in Rome. For event details tel. 3315524440, email artandseekforkids@gmail.com, or see website, www.artandseekforkids.com.

Bioparco

Rome's Bioparco has over 1,000 animals and o ers special activities for children and their families at weekends and during the summer. When little legs get tired, take a ride around the zoo on an electric train. Open daily. Viale del Giardino Zoologico 20 (Villa Borghese), tel. 063608211, www.bioparco.it.

Bowling Silvestri

is sports club has an 18-hole mini golf course, with good facilities for children aged 4 and over, adults and disabled children.

ere are also tennis courts, a table tennis room and a pizzeria. Via G. Zoega 6 (Monteverde/Bravetta), tel. 0666158206, www.bowlingsilvestri.com.

Casa del Parco

Eco-friendly workshops, in Italian, in which kids can learn about nature and how to care for the environment. Located in the Valle dei Casali nature park. Via del Casaletto 400, tel. 3475540409, www.valledeicasali.com.

Casina di Ra aello

Play centre in Villa Borghese o ering a programme of animated lectures, creative workshops, cultural projects and educational activities for children from the age of three. Tues-Fri 14.30, Sat-Sun 11.00 and 17.00. Viale della Casina di Ra aello (Porta Pinciana), tel. 060608, www.casinadira aello.it.

Cinecittà World

is 25-hectare theme park dedicated to the magic of cinema features high-tech attractions, real and virtual roller coasters, aquatic shows such as Super Splash, giant elephant rides and attractions with cinematic special e ects. Located about 10 km from EUR, south of Rome. Via di Castel Romano, S.S. 148 Pontina, www.cinecittaworld.it.

Climbing

Associazione Sportiva Climbing Side. Basic and competitive climbing courses for 6-18 year olds. Tues, urs. Via Cristoforo Colombo 1800 (Torrino/Mostacciano), tel. 3356525473.

Explora

e 2,000-sqm Children’s Museum organises creative workshops for small children in addition to holding regular animated lectures, games and meetings with authors of children’s books. Via Flaminia 80/86, tel. 063613776, www.mdbr.it.

Go-karting

Club Kartroma is a circuit with go-karts for children over 9 and two-seater karts for an adult and a child under 8. Closed Mon. For details see website. Via della Muratella (Ponte Galeria), tel. 0665004962, www.kartroma.it.

Gymboree

is children's centre caters to little people aged from 0-5 years, o ering Play and Learn activities, music, art, baby play, school skills and even English theatre arts. Gymboree @ Chiostro del Bramante (Piazza Navona), Via Arco della Pace 5, www.gymbo.it.

Hortis Urbis

Association providing hands-on horticultural workshops for children, usually in Italian but sometimes in English, in the Appia Antica park. Weekend activities include sowing seeds, cultivating plants and harvesting vegetables. Junior gardeners must be accompanied by a parent or guardian. Via Appia Antica 42/50, www.hortusurbis.it.

Il Nido

Based in Testaccio, this association supports expectant mothers, parents, babies and small children. It holds regular educational and social events, many of them in English. Via Marmorata 169 (Testaccio), tel. 0657300707, www.associazioneilnido.it.

Luneur

Located in the southern EUR suburb, Luneur is Italy’s oldest amusement park. Highlights include ferris wheel, roller coaster, carousel horses, bamboo tunnel, maze, giant swing and a Wizard of Oz-style farm. Aimed at children aged up to 12. Entry fee €2.50, payable in person or online. Via delle Tre Fontane 100, www.luneurpark.it.

Rainbow Magicland

e 38 attractions at Rome's biggest theme park are divided into three categories: brave, everyone, and kids. Highlights include down-hill rafting, a water roller coaster through Mayan-style pyramids, and the Shock launch coaster. Located in Valmonte, south-east of the capital. Via della Pace, 00038 Valmontone, www.rainbowmagicland.it.

Time Elevator

A virtual reality, multi-sensorial 5-D cinema experience with a motion-base platform, bringing the history of Rome to life in an accessible and fun way. e time-machine's commentary is available in six languages including English. Daily 11.00-19.30. €12 adults, €9 kids. Via dei SS. Apostoli 20, tel. 0669921823, www.time-elevator.it.

Zoomarine is amusement and aquatic park outside Rome o ers performances with dolphins, parrots and other animals for children of all ages. It is also possible to rent little play carts. Children under 10 must be accompanied by an adult. Via Casablanca 61, Torvaianica, Pomezia, tel. 0691534, www.zoomarine.it.

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

ROME'S MAJOR MUSEUMS

IT IS ADVISABLE TO CHECK WEBSITES FOR VISITING DETAILS DETAILS. IN SOME CASES RESERVATIONS ARE REQUIRED.

VATICAN MUSEUMS

Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00.

Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

STATE MUSEUMS

Baths of Diocletian

Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Borghese Museum

Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30.

Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

Crypta Balbi

Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna

Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's modern art collection. Mon closed.

MAXXI

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

CITY MUSEUMS

Centrale Montemartini

Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.

Capitoline Museums

Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun.

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

MACRO

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.

MATTATOIO

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Museo Canonica

Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).

Museo Napoleonico

Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS

Casa di Goethe

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Chiostro Del Bramante

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035 www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.

Galleria Colonna

Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.

Giorgio de Chirico House Museum

Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, rst Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking.

Keats-Shelley House

Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking.

Museo storico della Liberazione

Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it. Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from 1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.

Palazzo Merulana

Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it. Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection, including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation. 09.00-20.00. Tues closed.

ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY

ART GALLERIES

1/9 Unosunove

1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.

A.A.M. Architettura

Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www. -maam.it.

Contemporary Cluster

Multidisciplinary venue devoted to visual art, design, architecture and fashion design at Palazzo Brancaccio. Via Merulana 248, tel. 0631709949, www.contemporarycluster.com.

C.R.E.T.A.

Cultural association promoting ceramics and the visual, humanistic, musical and culinary arts through workshops, exhibitions and artist residencies. Palazzo Del ni, Via dei Del ni 17, tel. 0689827701, www.cretarome.com.

Dorothy Circus Gallery

Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.

Ex Elettrofonica

This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.

Fondazione Memmo

Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespeci c exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.

Fondazione Pasti cio Cerere

This non-pro t foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pasti ciocerere.com.

Fondazione Volume!

The Volume Foundation exhibits works created speci cally for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.

Franz Paludetto

Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.

Frutta

This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via dei Salumi 53 tel. 0645508934, www.fruttagallery.com.

Gagosian Gallery

The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

GALLA

Exhibition space designed to showcase original, unconventional art works at a ordable prices by artists working in various elds. Via degli Zingari 28, tel. 3476552515, www.facebook.com/GALLAmonti.

Galleria Alessandro Bonomo

Gallery showing the works of important Italian and international visual artists. Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858, www.bonomogallery.com.

Galleria Valentina Bonomo

Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works speci cally for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte

Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

High-pro le international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Galleria della Tartaruga

Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.

Galleria Il Segno

Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.

Galleria Mucciaccia

Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.

Galleria Russo

This historic gallery holds group and solo exhibitions showcasing the work of major 20th-century Italian painters alongside promising new Italian artists. Via Alibert 20, tel. 066789949, www.galleriarusso.it.

Galleria Varsi

A dynamic gallery promoting street culture and contemporary art movements. Via di A ogalasino 34, www.galleriavarsi.it.

Gavin Brown's Enterprise

New York gallerist Gavin Brown shows the work of international artists at his Trastevere gallery in a deconsecrated church dating to the eighth century. S. Andrea de Scaphis, Via dei Vascellari 69, www.gavinbrown.biz.

Il Ponte Contemporanea

Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of di erent generations. Via Giuseppe Acerbi 31A, tel. 0653098768, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.

La Nuova Pesa

Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.

Magazzino d’Arte Moderna

Contemporary art gallery that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.

Monitor

This contemporary art gallery o ers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, t el. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.

Nero Gallery

Space dedicated to showcasing young international artists working in pop surrealism, lowbrow art, dark art, comic art and surrealism. Via Castruccio Castracane 9, tel. 0627801418, www.nerogallery.com.

Nomas Foundation

Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.

Operativa Arte Contemporanea

A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.

Pian de Giullari

Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.

Plus Arte Puls

Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls.com.

Sala 1

This internationally known non-pro t contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.

S.T. Foto libreria galleria

Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri

The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.

T293

The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it.

The Gallery Apart

This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.

TraleVolte

Contemporary art gallery focusing on the relationship between art and architecture, hosting solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org.

Von Buren Contemporary

Rome-based gallery specialising in a ordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via Giulia 13, tel. 3351633518, www.vonburencontemporary.com.

Wunderkammern

This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www.wunderkammern.net.

Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin

Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria o ers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it.

where to go in Rome WHAT’S ON

Gilbert Halaby at Maja Arte Contemporanea. See page 22.

EXHIBITIONS

GILBERT HALABY: UNE COMÉDIE ROMAINE

1 JUNE-15 JULY

Maja Arte Contemporanea hosts Une Comédie Romaine, the first Roman solo show by the Lebanese artist Gilbert Halaby. The exhibition features around 30 paintings created over the past two years in the painter’s adopted city of Rome. Halaby paints scenes of life in the historic centre of the Italian capital, featuring images of priests, nuns and passersby, immortalised in coloured silhouettes. As Nora Iosia writes in the exhibition catalogue, Halaby’s images play on the “carpe diem” quality of Rome and the city’s “blissful indifference to the passing of time or the changing seasons, a lasting trait, which makes its spaces unique in the world.” Maja Arte Contemporanea, Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.

LETIZIA BATTAGLIA SENZA FINE

27 MAY-5 NOV

The Baths of Caracalla presents a tribute to the Sicilian photographer Letizia Battaglia – the legendary Italian photographer best known for her shocking images of Mafia

murders and arrests in Sicily –who died last year aged 87. Curated by Paolo Falcone, the exhibition features a selection of 92 large format photographs charting 50 years of Battaglia’s photographic work (1971-2020) with iconic images as well as those that are less known or unpublished. Baths of Caracalla, Viale delle Terme di Caracalla 52. For visiting details see www.soprintendenzaspecialeroma.it.

SEMBRA VIVO!

26 MAY-8 OCT

Fresh from the success of the Van Gogh blockbuster, Palazzo Bonaparte stages an exhibition of hyper-realist sculptures by celebrated contemporary artists. Organisers say the 43 installations on display are so lifelike that they will leave visitors questioning whether they are looking at living beings or inanimate objects. The exhibition features works by 29 international artists including Maurizio Cattelan, Ron Mueck, George Segal, Carole Feuerman and Duane Hanson. Located in Piazza Venezia, the 17thcentury Palazzo Bonaparte was once the home of Maria Letizia Ramolino, Napoleon’s mother, who watched the world go by

from the building’s green balcony from 1818 until her death in 1836. www.mostrepalazzobonaparte.it.

WORLD PRESS PHOTO 2023

5 MAY-4 JUNE

Palazzo delle Esposizioni hosts an exhibition dedicated to the 2023 edition of World Press Photo, offering a national preview of the 120 winning images in the annual international photojournalism competition which awards the best professional photographers every year since 1955. The Photo of the Year goes to Evgeniy Maloletka for his image from the siege of Mariupol for “perfectly capturing the human suffering caused by Russia’s invasion of Ukraine”. The Story of the Year, nine haunting but beautiful photos by Mads Nissen, refuses to let us forget the people of Afghanistan living now under the Taliban. The Long-Term Project Award goes to Anush Babajanyan, for her work spanning years to highlight the impact of climate change on water management in central Asia. The Open Format Award goes to Mohamed Mahdy, who is collaborating with a local community in Alexandria, Egypt, to preserve the memory of their fastdisappearing fishing village. Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Via Nazionale 194, www.palazzoesposizioni.it.

Letizia Battaglia at Baths of Caracalla. L'arresto del feroce boss mafioso Leoluca Bagarella. Palermo, 1979.

Kazu Hiro, Andy Warhol, 2013 at Palazzo Bonaparte.

L’ISTANTE E L’ETERNITA’: TRA NOI E GLI ANTICHI

4 MAY-30 JULY

An ancient ceremonial carriage discovered at Civita Giuliana near Pompeii is one of the star attractions in a major new exhibition at the National Museum of Rome - Baths of Diocletian. The newlyrestored chariot, believed to have been used in ceremonies such as weddings, is among 300 Roman, Greek and Etruscan artefacts included in the exhibition. Many of the works are on display for the first time, including the Civita Giuliana chariot and the newly-unearthed statue of Hercules from the Appia Antica Archaeological Park in Rome. Other treasures on show include the Tabula Chigi from the Roman National Museum and numerous masterpieces usually kept in storage in Italy and Greece, including the Kore of Thera statue. The casts of two anonymous men who perished after the eruption of Mount Vesuvius almost 2,000 years ago are also included in the exhibition which is supported by the culture ministries of Italy and Greece. For visiting details see Baths of Diocletian, Via Enrico de Nicola 78, www.museonazionaleromano.beniculturali.it.

MICHELANGELO PISTOLETTO: INFINITY

18 MARCH-15 OCT

Chiostro del Bramanate hosts an

exhibition dedicated to Michelangelo Pistoletto, one of the main representatives of the Italian Arte Povera movement. The show serves as a retrospective spanning the 60-year career of the Italian painter and action artist who turns 90 this year. Infinity follows the successful run of collective shows Love, Enjoy, Dream and Crazy, and will once again be curated by Danilo Eccher who describes it as “a group exhibition by a single artist”. As suggested by its title, the exhibition proposes “an infinite number of ways of making art, an infinite number of ways of seeing, of changing perspective, of reading reality”, according to Chiostro del Bramante. Infinity comprises

around 50 works and four large site-specific installations, dating from 1966 to 2023, including his celebrated Venere degli Stracci (Venus of the rags) and his mirror paintings. Chiostro del Bramante, Arco della Pace 5, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

L’IMMAGINE SOVRANA: URBANO VIII E I BARBERINI

18 MARCH-30 JULY

On the 400th anniversary of the election to the papal throne of Urban VIII, Palazzo Barberini dedicates a major exhibition to the longest and most representative pontificate of the 17th century (16231644). The exhibition celebrates the cultural and political profile of the pope - born Maffeo Barberini in 1568 - who had a profound impact on philosophical thought, scientific knowledge and the arts of the 17th century. The exhibition highlights how the pontiff, together with his nephews Cardinals Francesco and Antonio and Prince Taddeo Barberini, “tenaciously pursued an ambitious political-cultural project, which pervaded all areas of knowledge and artistic and cultural production”, according to the show’s organisers. A great patron of the arts, Urban VIII left an indelible stamp on Rome, promoting colossal undertakings such as the canopy of St Peter’s, designed by Gian Lorenzo Bernini, or the fresco by

World Press Photo at Palazzo delle Esposizioni. Evgeniy Maloletka / World Press Photo 2023.

L’istante e l’eternità. Tra noi e gli antichi at the Baths of Diocletian. Photo P. R. Santo per Electa.

Pietro da Cortona in Palazzo Barberini. The exhibition reunites 80 works from the museum’s collection with 40 pieces from the original Barberini collection dispersed in major museums around the world. The show includes important works by Bernini, Caravaggio, Poussin, Sacchi and some of the spectacular tapestries produced by the Barberini Arazzeria. Palazzo

CLASSICAL

ACCADEMIA S. CECILIA

IN THE KINGDOM OF PAN

1, 3, 4 JUNE

Sakari Oramo conducts the S. Cecilia Orchestra and Chorus with pianists Stefano Bollani and Hyung-ki Joo performing music by Poulenc and Ravel. 1 June 19.30. 3 June 18.00. 4 June 18.00. Sala S. Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Musica.

FAMILY CONCERT

4 JUNE

The S. Cecilia brass quintet and percussion perform music by Verdi, Mascagni, Daquin, Giménez, Piqueras, Piazzolla and Crespo. Family concerts are aimed at a

LA ROMA DELLA REPUBBLICA

13

JAN-24 SEPT

The Capitoline Museums presents an exhibition of Roman artefacts from the fifth century BC to the middle of the first century BC. Through a series of archaeological

themes and contexts, the exhibition in Palazzo Caffarelli brings to life the characters and transformations of Roman society over the course of five centuries, from the birth of the republic to the creation of the empire. The roughly 1,800 artefacts on display - made from terracotta, ceramics, bronze and stone - mostly come from municipal collections and many of them are usually hidden away in storage. Piazzale Caffarelli, www.museocapitolini.org.

broad audience particularly young people and preceded by “down-toearth introductory chats that serve as straightforward, helpful listening guides.” Concerts last an hour at most, without intermission. Introduction at 11.30, concert 12.00. Sala Sinopoli, Auditorium Parco della Musica.

BALLET IMPERIAL

8-10 JUNE

Jérémie Rhorer conducts the S. Cecilia Orchestra with pianist Alexandre Kantorow performing music by Saint-Saëns and Tchaikovsky. 8 June 19.30. 9 June 20.30. 10 June 18.00. Sala S. Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Musica.

Concerts take place in the Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30. For full details of tickets and performance times see www.santacecilia.it.

Barberini, Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, www.barberinicorsini.org.

Palazzo Barberini hosts L'immagine sovrana: Urbano VIII e i Barberini. Photo Alberto Novelli.

La Roma della Repubblica exhibition at Palazzo Caffarelli.

Jérémie Rhorer conducts the S. Cecilia Orchestra in Ballet Imperial.

festival

ROMA SUMMER FEST

6 JUNE - 26 SEPT

Rome’s Auditorium Parco della Musica hosts Roma Summer Fest with a programme of Italian and international acts from 10 June until 26 September. Now in its 21st year, the festival hosts big-name Italian artists alongside worldfamous bands. The 2023 line-up includes Paolo Conte (6 June), Carmen Consoli e Mariza (7 June), Samuele Bersani (11 June), Pet Shop Boys (13 June), Valerio Lundini (14 June), Mannarino (16-17 June), Yusuf/Cat Stevens (18 June), Ghemon: Una cosetta così (19 June), Ludovico Einaudi (20-23 June), Porcupine Tree (24 June), Venerus (25 June), The Lumineers (26 June), Mr Rain (27 June), Interpol (28 June), Ambrogio SparagnaOrchestra Popolare Italiana (29 June), Beth Hart (30 June). The July line-up comprises: Marco Masini (1 July), Renga Nek (2 July), Aurora (3 July), James Bay (5 July), Gigi D’Alessio (8 July), Bob Dylan (9 July), Sigur Rós (9 July), Baustelle (10 July), OneRepublic (11 July), Sting (14 July), Nobraino (15 July),

OPERA

TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA MADAMA BUTTERFLY

16-25 JUNE

Gué (16 July), Madame (17 July), Mr. Rain (18 July), Shine – Pink Floyd Moon (21 July), Levante (22 July), dEUS (23 July), Jacob Collier (24 July), Daniele Silvestri (25 July), Tash Sultana (26 July), Diodato (27 July), Carl Brave (28 July). Bookending the main holiday season in August are Emiliana Torrini & The Colorist Orchestra (1 Aug), Benjamine Clementine (2 Aug), Carmen Consoli & Elvis Costello (28 Aug), Paul Weller (22 Sept), Tananai (25 Sept) and Fabri Fibra (26 Sept). For full programme and ticket details see Auditorium website, www.auditorium.com.

ROCK IN ROMA

20 JUNE - 5 AUG

Rock in Roma returns this summer

with a multi-genre programme featuring a mix of national and international artists, at the Ippodromo delle Capannelle. The 2023 line-up includes Bresh (20 June), Rancore (23 June), Teenage Dream (24 June), Naska (25 June), Coma_Cose (27 June), Nu Genea (28 June), Paky (1 July),  Lazza (3 July), Capo Plaza (5 July), Mezzosangue (6 July), Coez (9 July), Maluma (12 July), Salmo (13 July), Arctic Monkeys (16 July), Manuel Agnelli (17 July), Articolo 31 (19 July), Carcass + CandleMass (21 July), Rosa Chemical (22 July), Sfera Ebbasta + Shiva (26 July), Ozuna (28 July), Imagine Dragons (5 Aug). For full details including tickets see Rock in Roma website. Ippodromo delle Capannelle, Via Appia Nuova 1245, www.rockinroma.com.

Roberto Abbado conducts and Àlex Ollé directs the great Puccini opera which was first performed in Rome in 1908, four years after its world premiere at La Scala in Milan. Eleonora Buratto / Maria Teresa Leva sing Cio-Cio-San, with Anna Maria Chiuri as Suzuki, and Dmytro Popov / Luciano Ganci alternating in the part of Pinkerton. This is a co-production between Teatro dell’Opera

Australia

di Roma and Opera

/ Sydney Opera House.

Teatro Costanzi, Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it.

Teatro dell'Opera di Roma poster for Madama Butterfly.

Roma Summer Fest at the Cavea in the Auditorium Parco della Musica.

CARACALLA FESTIVAL 30 MAY-10 AUG

Teatro dell’Opera di Roma is staging a bumper programme for its summer festival among the ancient Roman ruins at the Baths of Caracalla. In addition to opera, the festival will include a range of genres, from symphonic music, dance and theatre to cinema, jazz and pop concerts. The Carcalla Festival programme spans more than 50 evenings, with new the Teatro del Portico space reserved for cinema, jazz and theatre.

Noting the “extraordinary turnout” of more than 110,000 spectators last year, Rome mayor Roberto Gualtieri said the 2023 festival offers “an even richer and more varied programme for a unique stage in the world such as Caracalla.” Francesco Giambrone, superintendent of the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, said the aim of this year’s programme is to “create an interdisciplinary festival based on the juxtaposition of genres.”

The summer festival kicks off with a series of pop concerts, beginning with Zucchero (30-31 May, 2-4 June); Fiorella Mannoia and Danilo Rea on 1 June; Venditti-De Gregori on 5, 7, 8, 15 June; Andrea Bocelli on 10 June; the Negramaros on 13, 14, 16 June; and Massimo Ranieri on 24 July.

The festival programme will be inaugurated officially however on 23 June with the world premiere of the restored version of Charlie Chaplin’s The Great Dictator with the soundtrack performed live by the Teatro dell’Opera orchestra, conducted by Timothy Brock.

OPERA

The festival celebrates Verdi with two masterpieces: La traviata (21 July-9 Aug) in the 2018 staging by Lorenzo Mariani which sets the Parisian story in the 1960s Dolce Vita era, paying homage to Federico Fellini’s Rome. This is followed by Rigoletto (3-10 Aug) in the staging by Damiano Michieletto which sets it in an imaginary criminal world.

DANCE

The dance proposal opens with Strictly Gershwin (1-4 July) described as “a joyful and overwhelming musical” featuring étoiles, principal dancers, soloists and the Ballet of the Rome Opera, directed by Eleonora Abbagnato. The show, a tribute to George Gershwin and his music by choreographer and director Derek Deane, will be conducted by Michael England with Alessandro Taverna on piano.

The summer programme at the Baths of Caracalla would not be complete without Roberto Bolle and Friends, over three nights (1113 July), with the Gran Gala starring the guest stars Maia Makhateli and Jacopo Tissi accompanied by many others.

SYMPHONY

The symphonic proposal is represented by a masterpiece: the Symphony n. 9 by Beethoven which will be conducted on 9 July by Myung-Whun Chung, with the Teatro dell’Opera orchestra and chorus, directed by Ciro Visco, and the solo voices of Olga Bezsmertna, Sara Mingardo, Giovanni Sala and Roberto Tagliavini.

THEATRE

There will be a theatrical performance: The glasses of Šostakovič by Valerio Cappelli, who is also the director, on 5-6 July, dedicated to the great Russian composer, played by Moni Ovadia, with projections and live music.

CINEMA

The film festival is also dedicated to Verdi, which brings to light littleknown films inspired by the figure and works of the great composer, from 26 June to 3 July.

JAZZ

For jazz fans, the Stefano Di Battista Quartet performs on 31 July, with “Morricone stories jazz”; three aperitif-concerts designed to be followed also by spectators of the opera on stage the same evening, on 2, 4 and 6 August; and an evening with the Cutello Brothers entitled “New generation”, on 7 August.

PHOTO EXHIBITION

The Baths of Caracalla pays tribute to the great photographer Letizia Battaglia through an exhibition of photographs and documents from the start of her career between Milan and Palermo up to her final work before her death last year. For full details see Teatro dell’Opera website, www.operaroma.it.

Opera at the Baths of Caracalla. Photo Fabrizio Sansoni / Teatro dell'Opera di Roma.

CELEBRATING 50 YEARS OF AMERICAN EDUCATION IN ITALY

PAOLO PORTOGHESI DIES

The renowned Italian architect Paolo Portoghesi died on 30 May aged 91. The leading theorist of postmodern architecture in Italy, who died at his home in Calcata near Rome, had been writing a book on beauty. Portoghesi designed numerous landmark buildings in Italy, including the Casa Baldi in Rome (1959) and the Church of Sacra Famiglia in Salerno (1969). He is best known however for designing the Mosque of Rome, in the Parioli district, which was inaugurated in 1995 after more than two decades of planning and construction. Rome's culture councillor Miguel Gotor hailed Portoghesi as "one of the best-known Italian architects in the world, a curious and cultured man, with a multifaceted and always active personality, who was a figure on the international architecture scene", describing him as "a Roman who loved his city very much."

ITALIA LOVES ROMAGNA

Italy is to hold a benefit concert on 24 June in aid of the flood-hit Emilia-Romagna region. The fundraising concert, titled Italia loves Romagna, will be held at the Campovolo venue in Reggio Emilia. Gianmarco Mazzi, undersecretary for culture, said the concert has two aims: to raise as much money as possible for those affected by the floods and to promote the region as a summer holiday destination. The concert line-up features big names from the Italian music scene including Blanco, Elisa, Elodie, Emma, Giorgia, Luciano Ligabue, Madame, Fiorella

ITALY TO HIKE MUSEUM FARES BY €1 TO RESTORE FLOOD-DAMAGED HERITAGE

Italy is to raise the price of state museum tickets by €1 to help finance the restoration of cultural heritage sites damaged by the recent floods in the north of the country, premier Giorgia Meloni announced. The temporary measure was unveiled as part of a €2 billion aid package to help the northern Emilia-Romagna region where floods claimed the lives of 15 people and caused severe damage to buildings and farmland. The funds raised by the measure, due to be in place from 15 June to 15 September 2023, will go towards paying for repairs to museums, libraries and monuments damaged by flooding. Dozens of cultural sites in Emilia-Romagna reported damage from floodwater, including the Guerrino Tramonti Museum in Faenza and the Maltestiana Library in Cesena.

Mannoia, Gianni Morandi, Negramaro, Laura Pausini, Max Pezzali, Salmo, Tananai and Zucchero, with tickets on sale from Vivaticket, TicketOne and Ticketmaster. The concert comes 11 years after the Italia Loves Emilia concert whose proceeds went to support the same region after two major earthquakes that caused 27 deaths and serious structural damage. Luxury sports car manufacturers Ferrari and Lamborghini, both based in Emilia-Romagna, have donated €1 million each to a relief fund to help tackle the flood damage in the region.

Andy Devane

Italia Loves Emilia concert in 2012. Photo credit: D-VISIONS / Shutterstock.com

Paolo Portoghesi (1931-2023)

Photo courtesy Assessore Cultura Emilia-Romagna

The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a definitive list of all the music that is available in the city There are also concerts in many of the churches and sometimes in the museums.

Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com

Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season starts on 15 Oct

Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season starts on 15 Oct

Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All concerts at Auditorium Parco della Musica. The new season starts on 5 Oct

Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it

Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All concerts at Auditorium Parco della Musica. The new season starts on 5 Oct

Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone.com

Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it

MUSIC THE A TRE CINEMA VENUES

TRE MUSIC THEATRE CINEMA DANCE OPERA

classical cinema

RomeConcerts, Methodist Church, Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it

Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone.com

Roma Sinfonietta, Auditorium Ennio Morricone, Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com

RomeConcerts, Methodist Church, Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it

Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are at Teatro Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others are at the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Roma Tre, Via Ostienze 234, www.r30.org

Roma Sinfonietta, Auditorium Ennio Morricone, Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com

cinema

The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for weekly updates.

Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767

The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for weekly updates.

Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. 0686391361

Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767

There are often concerts, festivals and opera recitals in several churches in Rome.

Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are at Teatro Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others are at the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Roma Tre, Via Ostienze 234, www.r30.org

All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, www.allsaintsrome.org

There are often concerts, festivals and opera recitals in several churches in Rome.

All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, www.allsaintsrome.org

Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com

Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7

Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com

Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. 0686391361

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it

Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. 068553485

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it

Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. 068553485

Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com

Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825

Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com

Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230

Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825

Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361

Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230

St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it

Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7

S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Piazza Navona

St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it

S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Piazza Navona

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout the year There is a concert, a tour of the museum and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com

Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361

Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. 066861068

Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116

Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. 066861068

Odeon, Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361

Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116

Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. 06892111

Odeon, Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361

Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. 06892111

Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111

Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, ww

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.teatroolimpico.it

dance opera

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.teatroolimpico.it

dance opera

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it

rock pop

rock pop

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com

Live Alcazar, Via Cardinale Merry del Val 14, tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com

Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com

Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org

Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it

Atlantico, Viale dell’Oceano Atlantico 271d, tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it

Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P de Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com

Atlantico, Viale dell’Oceano Atlantico 271d, tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P de Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www auditorium.com

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net

Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, www.teatrobelli.it

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net

Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, www.teatrobelli.it

Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobrancaccio.it

Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatroghione.it

Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobrancaccio.it

Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatroghione.it

Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net

Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net

Monk Club, Via Giuseppe Mirri 35, tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it

Live Alcazar, Via Cardinale Merry del Val 14, tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com

PalaLottomatica, Piazzale dello Sport 1, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it

Monk Club, Via Giuseppe Mirri 35, tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it

PalaLottomatica, Piazzale dello Sport 1, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it

Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com

Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com

Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com

Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com

Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it

Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, www.teatrosangenesio.it

Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 www.teatrosangenesio.it

Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsistina.it

Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsistina.it

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.teatrovascello.it

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel. 065898031, www.teatrovascello.it

Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it

Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

By Kate Zagorski

TONNARELLI CACIO E PEPE

Cacio e pepe is a classic Roman pasta tradition which, until recently, was somewhat unknown outside of Italy. However, the last couple of years have seen the international food scene embrace this simple dish which was born from humble necessity, giving it a more glamorous lease of life. The dish originated in the Lazio countryside where shepherds would pack food to carry with them on the long journeys to move their ocks. Alongside cured meat products they would also take chunks of the local aged sheep milk cheese (which did not need refrigeration), handmade our and water pasta that could be eaten dried for carbohydrates, and black pepper to stimulate warmth. These three ingredients eventually involved into the pasta dish we know and love, and the origins underline once and for all that there is no place for butter or oil in the authentic recipe.

Nowadays cacio e pepe is usually served with a long, square-cut, fresh egg pasta called tonnarelli which gives an added richness to the dish and speeds up cooking time, but normal dried spaghetti can also be used. As with most seemingly easy recipes, the trick is in the timing and testing the perfect ratio of ingredients. Sadly, overcooking and not enough mixing will often result in a sticky, unpleasant nal dish rather than the silky, creamy cheese sauce with a punch of pepper which constitutes the perfect result. The recipe below utilises a little-known trick of heating the pepper in a pan of water to infuse the avour before nishing the cooking of the pasta in the peppery liquid. Extra starchy cooking water continuous mixing of the cheese should ensure the right consistency but, as any Roman will tell you, practice makes perfect.

Ingredients

Serves 2

250g fresh tonnarelli

70g pecorino romano, nely grated 190ml cold water

26 twists freshly ground black pepper

Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil.

In a separate frying pan, heat 190ml of cold water and twist in the black pepper with a pepper mill. Cook on a medium heat until it just begins to simmer.

Cook the tonnarelli in the saucepan of boiling water as per the packet instructions but drain one minute before the end of the suggested cooking time, keeping aside the starchy pasta water.

Place the tonnarelli in the frying pan of peppery water and cook for the nal minute, stirring well. Gradually add in 1-2 cups of the starchy pasta water as you go.

When the pasta is al dente remove the pan from the heat and quickly add the pecorino, stirring immediately. Toss the pan for 30 seconds, building up the creamy sauce. If the mixture is too dry add a little more cooking water and just keep stirring.

Serve immediately with an extra sprinkling of pecorino romano and another good crack of black pepper.

The best aperitivo in Flaminio

Flaminio, a neighbourhood only a stone’s throw from the city centre, is now home to a whole host of cocktail and aperitivo bars. You can take part in the ‘spritzmania’ or opt for a more traditional cocktail – there’s something for everyone. Food-wise you’ll find fresh fish, international cuisine, or even the finest cheese and charcuterie boards. We’ve selected five of the best bars for pre- or post-dinner, from new openings to old favourites.

ENOTECA MOSTÒ

Run by passionate and skilled sommelier Ciro Borriello, at Enoteca Mostò you’ll be advised on the perfect wine to suit your palate, with a brilliant selection of natural and French wines in particular. As for the food, there isn't a huge choice but what is on offer is fantastic quality. Aperitivo begins from 18.30 and you can choose a glass of either Franciacorta Brut Vezzoli (€7) or Particella 928 Cantina del Barone (€8) accompanied by a plate of tapas (€6) and artisan sausage. You can also order from the main menu and we highly recommend the desserts: millefeuille (€7) and white chocolate cheesecake with almond, mango and lime crumble (€7). Mon closed.

APOTECA

Facing on to Piazza Melozzo da Forlì, Apoteca is the perfect spot for an aperitivo pre-theatre or before heading to the stadium. There are seats at the bar where you can admire the large selection of craft beers. If you don’t fancy a beer there are also cocktails, mocktails and wine served by the glass. At aperitivo hour you can choose from a charcuterie (€10) or cheese board (€12), or even meat balls (€7), or the apotecaburger (€14). Apoteca serves cocktails both pre and post dinner.

METROPOLITA

One of the most recent bar openings in Flamminio, Metropolita is located right in front of the Ponte della Musica and is open from 18.00 until 02.00 (or until 17.00 on Sunday). You can enjoy either a cocktail or a glass of

wine accompanied by a selection of antipasti from the kitchen. The barmen serve both cocktails from all over the world, like the London Tequila (€11), as well as the usual classics (from €6-8). If you feel like something else to eat there’s also hummus served with pane carasau (Sardinian flat bread) (€6) or a platter of Italian and French cheeses (€18). The Metropolita can seat 65 people over its three floors. Open every day except Mondays.

DILISCANDO

This is the new fish restaurant in the Flaminio neighbourhood. The name, which means ‘filleting’, and the interiors create a seaside feel. Every day from 18.00 you can enjoy a glass of wine (from €5) and try some delicious fish dishes. On Thursdays the chef prepares five tasting plates to accompany five of the wines, and each week the selection is different.

TREE BAR

Located in the garden of Piazzale Manila, Tree Bar is a very popular place, especially with young people. Live music, competitions and the huge seating area outside make it a fun place to hang out. On Mondays there is an aperitivo buffet. You can also enjoy wine, beer or a cocktail with a cheese or meat board (€12 or €10) and then if you’re still peckish choose the dish of the day or from the main menu. We also highly recommend their homemade desserts (from €6-8) and their selection of spirits. Open daily from 18.30 to 01.30.

Enoteca Mostò, Viale Pinturicchio 32, tel. 3922579616.

Apoteca, Piazza Melozzo da Forlì 15, tel. 3662511733.

Metropolita, Piazza Gentile da Fabbriano 2, tel. 063240249.

Diliscando, Viale del Vignola 7, tel. 0689131376.

Tree bar, Via Flaminia 226, tel. 0632652754.

Associations

American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org

American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org

Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com

Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com

Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli

Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net

Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com

Daughters of the American Revolution

Pax Romana Chapter NSDAR paxromana@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com

Books

The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified.

Almost Corner Bookshop

Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942

Anglo American Bookshop

Via delle Vite 27, tel. 066795222

Bibliothèque Centre Culturel

Saint-Louis de France (French)

Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it

La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French)

Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com

Libreria Feltrinelli International

Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it

Religious

All Saints’ Anglican Church

Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881

Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30

Anglican Centre

Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com

Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org

Bible Baptist Church

Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00

Christian Science Services

Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425

Church of All Nations

Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464

Church of Sweden

Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish)

International Women’s Club of Rome

tel. 0633267490, www.iwcofrome.it

Irish Club of Rome

irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org

Luncheon Club of Rome

tel. 3338466820

Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums

tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org

Professional Woman’s Association

www.pwarome.org

United Nations Women’s Guild

tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com

Welcome Neighbor

tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com

Libreria Quattro Fontane (international)

Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484

Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish)

Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it

Open Door Bookshop

(second hand books English, French, German, Italian)

Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com

Otherwise

Via del Governo Vecchio, tel. 066879825, www.otherwisebookshop.com

Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 3332284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it

International Central Gospel Church

Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695

International Christian Fellowship

Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00

Jewish Community

Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061

Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas

Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761

Lutheran Church

Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German)

Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church

Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday Service 10.30

Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic)

Via dei SS. Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00

Roma Baptist Church

Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service

10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese)

Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara

Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091

Rome International Church

Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org

Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico)

Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258

St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church

Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00

St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic)

Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00

Support groups

Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.com

Archè

(HIV+children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it

Associazione Centro Astalli

(Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306

Associazione Ryder Italia

(Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/06582045580, www.ryderitalia.it

Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it

Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily

Caritas foreigners’ support centre

Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554

Caritas hostel

Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235

Caritas legal assistance

Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369

Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 3381675680

Transport

• Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it

• Ciampino airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it

• Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it

• Taxi tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157066645-064994

• Traffic info tel. 1518

• Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it

St Isidore College (Roman Catholic)

Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00

St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic), Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827, www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org

Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30

St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal)

Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish)

St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic)

Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30

Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00

Comunità di S. Egidio

Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234

Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen

Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for disabled tel. 800271027

Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre

St Paul’s within-the-Walls

Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339

Mason Perkins Deafness Fund

(Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it

Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772

Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza)

Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri”

Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351

Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104

The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022

Chiamaroma

24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Emergency numbers

• Ambulance tel. 118

• Carabinieri tel. 112

• Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336

• Fire brigade tel. 115

• Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999

• Police tel. 113

• Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355