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EDITORIALS

ALL RIGHT, WE HOPE Andy Devane

8. LIFE UNDER LOCKDOWN IN MONTEROTONDO Laura Clarke

10. WHEN LIFE GIVES YOU LEMONS, PAINT THEM Andy Devane

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18. ROME FOR children 20. cultural academies 24. MUSEUMS 28. ART GALLERIES 44. CULTURAL VENUES 48. STREET ART guide 51. RECIPE 54. USEFUL NUMBERS

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THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME

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6. EVERYTHING WILL BE

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29. WHAT'S ON IN THE TIME OF CORONAVIRUS

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The Roman Quarantine by Elisa Colarossi www.romangalgoesaround.wordpress.com See page 10

ENTS 8

LIFE UNDER LOCKDOWN IN MONTEROTONDO

WHEN LIFE GIVES YOU LEMONS, PAINT THEM

cinema da casa

41 classical

Lockdown

EVERYTHING WILL BE ALL RIGHT, WE HOPE A family living near the Circus Maximus adjusts to the challenges of life in lockdown Rome Andy Devane Andrà tutto bene said the sign I scrawled on the floor of my Roman terrace, my little daughters helping to fill in the letters with coloured chalk. The message means ̒Everything Will Be All Right' in Italian, reflecting a positive movement of music and rainbow-filled posters by children, convincing each other that, yes, it will all be ok, we'll get through this. Be strong, play your part and stay inside. That was many days ago now, at the start of the lockdown, when Rome first embraced the giddy and uplifting movement of balcony singsongs, filling empty courtyards, empty streets every evening with 20 minutes of nervous optimism in the face of fear. Since then my family and I have fallen into a routine of sorts. The days are long. My wife Anna, a teacher of English literature and theatre at an international school in Rome, has been flung into a new world of virtual teaching via Google Classroom and Google Hangouts. It is a challenge at the best of times but with two small children also in lockdown it is even more difficult. Anna teaches her lessons mainly out on the terrace, in the sun, or in the living room. Our labradoodle Layla sits in on these lessons, in her own chair beside Anna, watching over proceedings in a supervisory capacity. 6 | April 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Viviana, aged four, has taken to e-learning very well. Her laptop screen fills up with the faces of her classmates all over Rome, thanks to Zoom. They share their rainbow paintings and this week she wrote the letter ̒8' by herself. But mostly she spends her time painting and playing with her wild baby sister Isabella, who enjoys flinging dinner plates and eating soil from flower pots. Anna works late into the night, preparing lessons and correcting papers, sometimes until 03.00 in the morning, when my work day begins. I have about five uninterrupted hours to write news stories before the children appear for breakfast. I pick up my work at various hours during the day, depending on the baby's naps and breaks in lessons, before beginning again mid-afternoon and working until an early bedtime. Every day is the same. The chalk sign I made with my little girls on the terrace has faded now. The music continues each night but many of our neighbours no longer come to their windows. Perhaps they are uncomfortable with Andrà tutto bene, that despite its best intentions it is no longer appropriate amid the gut-wrenching figures we hear every evening. I am torn between hope and horror. The singsong coincides with the dreaded evening bulletin announcing the numbers of dead and infected, as well as those who have recovered from the Coronavirus.

Lockdown

Viviana and Isabella with their message of hope.

The plight of Bergamo, about 500 km north of Rome, makes for particularly distressing viewing. Its hospitals are overwhelmed by patients gasping for air, its doctors and nurses are stretched to breaking point in a war-like situation, its crematorium is in operation 24 hours a day. The solemn, desperate sight of a convoy of army trucks driving coffins out of the city, because its cemeteries are now full, makes it difficult for even the most optimistic among us to contemplate singing.

house in 10 days. The streets of S. Saba, silent and eerie now, were devoid of life, noise, cars. I saw one bus, with just two masked passengers, and a Deliveroo rider. A large painted sheet hanging on a gate near the neighbourhood theatre said AndrĂ tutto bene.

Last night I took a very excited Layla out for a walk to our local recycling bins on Viale Aventino. It was the first time I had left the

Wanted in Rome welcomes other people's short stories of life in lockdown Rome. Articles can be sent to editorial@wantedinrome.com.

Since I last stepped into the outside world, winter had turned to spring. The Judas trees on our street had blossomed beautifully. We hope for good days ahead.

Wanted in Rome â&#x20AC;˘ April 2020 | 7

Lockdown

Life under lockdown in Monterotondo Adjusting to the reality of quarantine in Monterotondo, a small town northeast of Rome Laura Clarke Over a week of under lockdown in Monterotondo and the children are taking it in their stride. They have decided to keep to their usual daily routine, with the mornings set aside for schoolwork and the afternoons devoted to play and a gruelling exercise routine on the terrace (in which we all take part). Having the outside space has been a blessing. Home schooling has been a challenge due to a combination of factors: lack of preparedness on the part of the school because the decision to close schools was taken overnight and without warning; difficulty of organising a coordinated approach given the restrictions on movement; lack of digital capacity on the part of some families. Consequently, roll-out has been slow and piecemeal, with different teachers using different electronic platforms to feed materials and instructions to their pupils. Many parents have had problems accessing these – and some do not have the ability to follow through. The bottom line is that we are all doing what we can – and in our case fortunately my husband Paolo is able to devote himself to the home schooling almost full-time. There will be a lot of catching up to do once schools reopen (probably well after 3 April) and children will inevitably be at different stages depending on how much they have been able to do at home. The school year is due to end on 8 June, but it is rumoured that there could be an extension until July. The restrictions on movement have brought people together in surprising ways. Digital 8 | April 2020 • Wanted in Rome

communication has increased enormously and the six o’clock chorus is now part of the collective routine. Here in Monterotondo neighbours have set up loud-speaker systems on their balconies and terraces and treated us to daily concerts of the anthems of the armed forces, traditional local songs and popular music. Generally speaking, Italians have responded to the measures with considerable self-discipline and responsibility. There has not been the level of confusion or panic seen in other countries, due largely I think to the clear line taken by the government from the outset, which is being reinforced by very stringent policing. The leadership – both at central and at local level here in Monterotondo – has been exceptional. Food shopping has not been a particular problem, although it takes much longer than usual given the limit on the number of people who can enter a given shop at any time. Once inside, people move respectfully around each other and the shelves, maintaining the recommended one-metre distance. There is little sense of suspicion or fear. Working remotely is a challenge, but it has freed up a lot of time (and energy) that I would normally spend commuting to and from Rome. Also, it helps knowing that my colleagues are in the same position. and while initially I felt frustrated by my lack of productivity, now I have learned to lower my expectations of what can (and should) be done. Life has slowed down and it has been an opportunity to remind ourselves of what really

Lockdown matters: relationship, self-care, beauty, silence… I have found time to read, to play with the children, to watch films as a family, to sit in the sun. Media are providing regular lists of ideas and suggestions for filling the days and colleagues also circulate a daily newsletter of resources. Of course, this is only my personal and very partial experience, based also on the fact that all the people close to me are in good health and that Monterotondo has had 21 confirmed cases as of 29 March, out of a total population of around 40,000. The situation is very different in other parts of the country. The restrictions mean that it is difficult to get a proper sense of what is going on beyond the four walls of the home. I know of many painful stories: one colleague was unable to be with her father when he died and nor could there be a funeral; an Italian friend living outside the country will be unable to assist her mother when she begins her first

cycle of chemotherapy in Rome; many families have seen their sources of livelihood disappear almost overnight. People who live alone are very alone, and those living on the margins of society (refugees and migrants, the homeless...) are particularly vulnerable. However, individuals, NGOs and faith-based organisations mobilised immediately to identify and fill the protection gaps where possible. And charitable donations in support of the struggling health service and other relevant causes have skyrocketed. It is unclear how long the situation will last – but there will definitely be a ‘before and after’. Right now, no one knows what the ‘after’ will look like. Economically it is likely to be disastrous. But if the lessons are learned and we make them our own, on many levels it could be better than the ‘before’. * Laura Clarke worked for Wanted in Rome for many years and is now witih the UNHCR in Rome, but at the moment is working from home in Monterotondo about 30 kms northeast of the capital.

Monterotondo in lockdown

Wanted in Rome • April 2020 | 9

Art

WHEN LIFE GIVES YOU LEMONS, PAINT THEM How Rome's artists are coping with quarantine during Italy's Coronavirus lockdown Andy Devane Artists are unpredictable by nature and respond to sudden change in deeply personal ways. So after the Italian government introduced a nationwide lockdown in early March, due to the Covid-19 emergency, the forced confinement had a variety of effects on the creative flows of Rome’s artists. For many, who already work from home, there has been little change, at least in terms of the scenery. For those who work outdoors or from a studio elsewhere, the quarantine has shaken them out of their routine. All have had to adapt to the unsettling new reality in which they find themselves. Some artists have responded with cheer and a fresh impetus, others are more despondent and need time to reflect. Many have sought beauty in their immediate surroundings or rediscovered old skills. Some have even made quarantine, and freedom, their central artistic theme.

views from the balcony of her home in the city’s Centocelle suburb. One particularly pleasing image shows a black cat gazing out the window at aperitivi time, sitting proudly on a windowsill beside a bottle of Aperol and a bowl of olives. Colarossi says she will continue to make a new image each day, with the goal of exhibiting her work when life gets back to normal. Mauro Rossi, known in the art world as Quelchevale, is primarily a plein-air painter and in non-quarantine times can often be

Here we take a look at how a dozen Rome-based artists, Italian and international, have responded to quarantine in the Eternal City. For Elisa Colarossi, the person behind the blog Roman gal goes around, the lockdown has seen a return to art after several years, giving her time for this “forgotten passion” and resulting in a delightful project called The Roman Quarantine (see cover of this issue). Each day she undertakes a small drawing, made with colured pencils and markers, of “colourful scenes and soothing images to lighten up these difficult days.” She is interested in capturing the smaller details of being stuck indoors in Rome. Her pictorial diary has brought life to domestic chores such as doing the laundry, making pizza in her kitchen, and 10 | April 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Part of The Roman Quarantine series by Elisa Colarossi.

Art

Interior by Quelchevale.

seen painting along the banks of the Tiber or at city-centre landmarks, both famous and lesser-known. A gifted watercolourist, he works primarily in tempera, a medium he uses to great effect when recording urban scenes of Rome’s trams and metro stations, particularly at night. He says the quarantine hasn’t significantly affected his productivity in terms of quantity (he still paints more or less every day). However it has led to a “radical change of the subjects I paint: my focus shifted from painting mostly landscapes in open spaces to depicting details of my home. I think this change has led my latest works (all depicting details of closed spaces) to also inevitably convey a feeling of isolation.” Asked what will be the first thing he’ll paint when freedom is restored, he says Isola Tiberina. The confinement has been tough on Alice Pasquini, the internationally celebrated Roman street artist, painter and illustrator. “My life as a street artist for the past 15 years has always been on the road” – she says – “Obviously this tragedy that surprised us all has upset my plans by cancelling in a very short time all my travels and long-planned wall projects.” Pasquini says she now finds herself with a lot of time available in her studio, “which fortunately is behind the building where I live, but without stimulation or much creativity. All my art speaks about people and feeds off encounters and travels,” she says, adding: “Surely there will come a time in which I will be able to elaborate all of this artistically but now is not the time.”

Another person whose artistic life is normally on the road, quite literally, is Andrea Gandini, the 22-year-old Roman artist who in recent years has made international headlines by sculpting tree trunks on streets around Rome. A talented and self-assured character, Gandini also has a compassionate streak. He has used this time indoors to create Eva, a sculpted head made of oak and American walnut, one metre high and weighing 15 kg. Eva is part of a charity auction on Gandini’s Facebook page, which reached a final price of €850, on 2 April. All proceeds of the auction will go to authorities in Stigliano, a town in the Basilicata region of southern Italy for the purchase of medical supplies such as masks and sanitising gel in the battle against Coronavirus. “I have a very strong relationship with Stigliano” – says Gandini – “they have always welcomed me, over the past two years I have spent New Year’s Eve, Christmas, August and even my birthday there.” Street artist David Diavù Vecchiato, known for his spectacular staircase portraits in Rome, has

Eva by Andrea Gandini.

Wanted in Rome • April 2020 | 11

Art video tutorials about street art, aimed at awakening the imagination of young people and helping them to see the quarantine as a chance to grow, not as a trauma.

New work by Georgina Spengler.

also offered his artistic talents to a good cause. Diavù recently participated in a charity auction by street artists, organised by Rosso20sette Gallery, which raised €6,285 for the Italian Red Cross. The next auction will be held by Aste Bertolami Fine Arts on 5 April, in collaboration with Cluster Contemporary, for the benefit of Rome’s S. Filippo Neri hospital to help it in its response to the Covid-19 crisis. Diavù is using his confinement to work on an “ambitious personal artistic project” called ARIA, connecting the “environmental problems of the current historic period with their main economic causes.” The project foresees future murals, workshops and illustrated stories. In the meantime Diavù is retracing his old comic art, and has seen the size of his work reduced from unlimited walls to small-format drawings. He also plans to film 12 | April 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Georgina Spengler was once described by Wanted in Rome’s late art critic Edith Schloss as “one of the most steadfast painterly painters I know.” In these strangest of days, the Romebased artist is painting with an even more immediate need. “When this whole crisis began I found myself questioning the deeper meaning and need for art” – she says – “I started looking at what more spiritually developed people, be they artists or poets thought about the purpose of art, what is its function at such moments.” This research led her to Andrei Tarkovsky, the late Russian film director whose films she describes as “true visual poetry which strive always towards the spiritual realm.” She says the best way to sum up her current creative phase is her latest painting, an oil and charcoal work on a wooden board inscribed with a quotation by Tarkovsky on the mystery of art: “An artistic image is something indivisible, intangible, possessing qualities of the world it is depicting. It’s the rapport between absolute truth and our Euclidean conscience.” Jimmy Kennedy, an Irish artist working in Rome for the last decade, panicked at the start of the lockdown but then decided to face the situation head on, stocking up on art supplies before Amazon ceased delivering ‘non-essential’ items to Italy. He began on the first day with a clean-shaven self-portrait and, in true artist style, is growing a beard until quarantine ends when he will paint himself again in freedom. Between now and then he has been concentrating on capturing the light coming

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Art through his kitchen window and painting different objects and reflections at various times of the day. Kennedy has completed a successful series of still lifes, in oils, during this time. “I am also planning on painting my son and a portrait of my wife at eight months pregnant” – he says – “and another portrait of my daughter after she is born, depending how long this lockdown lasts.” When normality returns, Kennedy says he hopes to have a show with a “theme around the simple things in life.” The quarantine has taken the wind out of the sails of Roman artist Gio Pistone, celebrated for her vivid wall paintings, sculpture and illustrations. “Before we were interrupted” – she says – “I was working on a great sculpture job, supported by a workshop outside Rome that was helping me to make this work.” The sculpture’s abrupt stop left Pistone “a bit weakened” and in need of time “to recover from the emotion that accompanied me during its construction.” However she soon harnessed some creativity which she directed to projects in the pipeline but on the long finger, including an illustrated book based on a story written and invented together with a writer friend, and some sketches for wall works that, should the situation improve, she will paint between July and October. Pistone is not optimistic about this prospect however, saying: “I’m not sure that everything will be restored from July and I believe that many of these festivals I had been invited to will be moved or even cancelled, sigh!” In the meantime she is staying “in training” with the hope that she will eventually “go somewhere to paint these drawings of mine.” For Pietro Ruffo, the Roman mixed-media artist and rising star of Italy’s art world, the timing of the lockdown was unfortunate. Maremoto, his latest show at Galleria Lorcan O’Neill, an installation featuring three vast azulejos, or ceramic murals, opened a couple of weeks before the quarantine came into effect and was scheduled to run until 20 April. The project took a lot out of him, artistically and physically, and he believed that the surprise hiatus would act as a time of reflection, leading to a progetto di pausa or break project. The time-off period lasted a full “23 hours”, he says, before he got the call to undertake an “important commission”, which he is undertaking with “a pencil, paper, cell phone, 14 | April 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Still life by Jimmy Kennedy.

Photoshop and email” from his desk. Ruffo says that the project is developing “unusual and extremely authentic characteristics” due to him being forced to overcome “small problems related to means other than those available to me in the studio.” He holds back on the details but adds: “I have become a young student again with the sketch pad in hand, I don’t mind, but I would say that it’s time to GO OUTSIDE.” The Roman architect and master illustrator Fabio Barilari found it difficult initially to find his rhythm, a way out of the gloomy disquiet and

Pietro Ruffo in his studio. Photo Luis Do Rosario.

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Art intense strangeness of it all. “Working in areas related to art, I cannot use art as a diversion” – he says – “People who work in other sectors can possibly dedicate themselves to the pleasure of drawing or painting or playing music to unwind. As most of my work is dedicated to the arts in “normal” life, I have found it more difficult, in these days, to reset my mind in order to be productive.” However Barilari, who in addition to his buildings and illustrations has half a dozen Wanted in Rome covers under his belt, eventually managed to exit the artistic morass with what he terms the CoRomaVirus Session: a series of works conveying the “dystopian sensations” currently offered by the city. In most of his Roman illustrations, Barilari tends to avoid including people, a motif that has taken on a deeper significance now that the city’s streets are deserted. His latest works underscore this unsettling feel, focusing on “architecture and shadows, with no human presence” in a city suddenly devoid of traffic and its millions of tourists.

Balcony view by Lisa Fedich.

16 | April 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Artist Lisa Fedich, living in Rome but originally from New York, paints in watercolour and oil, inspired by Rome’s ruins, nature, spirits and myths, as well as the immortal words of the Romantic poets buried near her home. In addition she runs sketchbook art tours for families and teaches art at St Stephen’s School in the city’s Aventino area. “As a painter under quarantine there are only a few changes and obvious restrictions” – she says – “Our perspective in seeing must change for the limitations of staying in one space.” Fedich says that although she loves to paint outside at times, “you must find beauty in a corner of the room, a view out the window. You are forced to see the internal beauty that otherwise can be lost with so many possibilities outside.” She is currently working on a series of watercolours for every day of quarantine, capturing different views from her windows and balcony. She also spares a thought for the “really hard time” that students are going through as they grapple with online sessions, “trying to motivate and keep them doing art” during these long days. Australian painter Kevin Murray, whose style is grounded in the ideals of the Scuola Romana movement, has lived in Rome since 1960. “I love my Rome studio-home so being confined here is no problem for me” – says Murray, who states that if anything the imposed quarantine is helping him finally to get around to completing a series of paintings, Sydney Surfers, which he began more than 12 years ago. The works are part of an exhibition originally scheduled to have taken place in June but, with the arrival of the Coronavirus lockdown, the opening slipped to September. Far from upsetting Murray, the artist was quite happy as the new date coincides with his ‘diamond jubilee’ of 60 years living in the Eternal City. However he now fears that the show “might be shunted off to next year but that’s also fine by me as it would give me lots of time to have the works nicely framed, to publicise the show widely and plan posters and invitations.” Besides drawing and painting, Murray says that he has been enjoying delicious Italian dishes and wines, connecting with friends via email and listening to classical music, adding: “I water my garden terrace, nap a lot and just enjoy life as I always do.”

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ARTandSEEK English-language cultural workshops and visits to museums and exhibitions for children in Rome. For event details tel. 3315524440, email artandseekforkids@gmail.com, or see website, www.artandseekforkids.com. Bioparco Rome's Bioparco has over 1,000 animals and offers special activities for children and their families at weekends and during the summer. When little legs get tired, take a ride around the zoo on an electric train. Open daily. Viale del Giardino Zoologico 20 (Villa Borghese), tel. 063608211, www.bioparco.it. Bowling Silvestri This sports club has an 18-hole mini golf course, with good facilities for children aged 4 and over, adults and disabled children.

18 | April 2020 â&#x20AC;˘ Wanted in Rome

There are also tennis courts, a table tennis room and a pizzeria. Via G. Zoega 6 (Monteverde/Bravetta), tel. 0666158206, www.bowlingsilvestri.com. Casa del Parco Eco-friendly workshops, in Italian, in which kids can learn about nature and how to care for the environment. Located in the Valle dei Casali nature park. Via del Casaletto 400, tel. 3475540409, www.valledeicasali.com. Casina di Raffaello Play centre in Villa Borghese offering a programme of animated lectures, creative workshops, cultural projects and educational activities for children from the age of three. Tues-Fri 14.30, Sat-Sun 11.00 and 17.00. Viale della Casina di Raffaello (Porta Pinciana), tel. 060608, www.casinadiraffaello.it.

Cinecittà World This 25-hectare theme park dedicated to the magic of cinema features high-tech attractions, real and virtual roller coasters, aquatic shows such as Super Splash, giant elephant rides and attractions with cinematic special effects. Located about 10 km from EUR, south of Rome. Via di Castel Romano, S.S. 148 Pontina, www.cinecittaworld.it. Climbing Associazione Sportiva Climbing Side. Basic and competitive climbing courses for 6-18 year olds. Tues, Thurs. Via Cristoforo Colombo 1800 (Torrino/Mostacciano), tel. 3356525473. Explora The 2,000-sqm Children’s Museum organises creative workshops for small children in addition to holding regular animated lectures, games and meetings with authors of children’s books. Via Flaminia 80/86, tel. 063613776, www.mdbr.it. Go-karting Club Kartroma is a circuit with go-karts for children over 9 and two-seater karts for an adult and a child under 8. Closed Mon. For details see website. Via della Muratella (Ponte Galeria), tel. 0665004962, www.kartroma.it. Gymboree This children's centre caters to little people aged from 0-5 years, offering Play and Learn activities, music, art, baby play, school skills and even English theatre arts. Gymboree @ Chiostro del Bramante (Piazza Navona), Via Arco della Pace 5, www.gymbo.it. Hortis Urbis Association providing hands-on horticultural workshops for children, usually in Italian but sometimes in English, in the Appia Antica park. Weekend activities include sowing seeds, cultivating plants and harvesting vegetables. Junior gardeners must be accompanied by a parent or guardian. Via Appia Antica 42/50, www.hortusurbis.it. Il Nido Based in Testaccio, this association supports expectant mothers, parents, babies and small children. It holds regular educational and social events, many of them in English. Via Marmorata 169 (Testaccio), tel. 0657300707, www.associazioneilnido.it.

Luneur Located in the southern EUR suburb, Luneur is Italy’s oldest amusement park. Highlights include ferris wheel, roller coaster, carousel horses, bamboo tunnel, maze, giant swing and a Wizard of Oz-style farm. Aimed at children aged up to 12. Entry fee €2.50, payable in person or online. Via delle Tre Fontane 100, www.luneurpark.it. Rainbow Magicland The 38 attractions at Rome's biggest theme park are divided into three categories: brave, everyone, and kids. Highlights include down-hill rafting, a water roller coaster through Mayan-style pyramids, and the Shock launch coaster. Located in Valmonte, south-east of the capital. Via della Pace, 00038 Valmontone, www.rainbowmagicland.it. Time Elevator A virtual reality, multi-sensorial 5-D cinema experience with a motion-base platform, bringing the history of Rome to life in an accessible and fun way. The time-machine's commentary is available in six languages including English. Daily 11.00-19.30. €12 adults, €9 kids. Via dei SS. Apostoli 20, tel. 0669921823, www.time-elevator.it. Zoomarine This amusement and aquatic park outside Rome offers performances with dolphins, parrots and other animals for children of all ages. It is also possible to rent little play carts. Children under 10 must be accompanied by an adult. Via Casablanca 61, Torvaianica, Pomezia, tel. 0691534, www.zoomarine.it.

Wanted in Rome • April 2020 | 19

History

A short guide to some of the most important international Cultural Academies in Rome representing countries from around the world in the Eternal city.

Cultural Academies AMERICAN ACADEMY IN ROME The American Academy in Rome works to promote research and independent study in the arts and humanities. Via Angelo Masina 5, tel. 065810788, www.aarome.org.

CASA DI GOETHE Rome’s museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe offers exhibitions and cultural events throughout the year. Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www.casadigoethe.it.

AUSTRIAN CULTURAL FORUM The Austrian Cultural Forum hosts events dedicated to the history and culture of Austria. Viale Bruno Buozzi 113, tel. 063608371, www.austriacult.roma.it.

CENTRE CULTUREL SAINT-LOUIS DE FRANCE The centre offers cultural events such as film screenings, lectures, debates and theatre. Largo Toniolo 20, tel. 066802629, www.ifcsl.com.

BELGIAN ACADEMY The Belgian Academy facilitates scientific and cultural relations between Italy and Belgium by sponsoring researchers and artists in Italy. Via Omero 8, tel. 063201889, www.academiabelgica.it.

CENTRO CULTURAL BRASIL-ITALIA The centre offers courses of Brazilian Portuguese and samba and hosts meetings with writers and filmmakers, conferences on Brazilian literature and screenings of Brazilian movies. Piazza Navona 18, tel. 0668398284, www.roma.itamaraty.gov.br/it/centro_cultural_brasil-italia.xml.

BRITISH COUNCIL The British Council promotes the English language and appreciation in Italy of the UK’s creative ideas and achievements. Via di S. Sebastianello 16, tel. 06478141, www.britishcouncil.it. BRITISH SCHOOL AT ROME The British School at Rome brings scholars, artists, researchers and architects from Britain to create a cultural exchange between Britain and Italy. Via Gramsci 61, tel. 063264939, www.bsr.ac.uk.

20 | April 2020 • Wanted in Rome

DANISH ACADEMY The Danish Academy is an institution that offers support to Danish artists in Rome. Via Omero 18, tel. 063265931, ww.dkinst-rom.dk. DUTCH INSTITUTE The Dutch Institute offers courses for students and researchers and serves as a bridge between Dutch universities and Italy. Via Omero 10, tel. 063269621, www.knir.it.

EGYPTIAN ACADEMY The Egyptian Academy brings Arabian, Egyptian and African culture and art to Italy. Via Omero 4, tel. 063201896, www.accademiaegitto.org. FRENCH ACADEMY The French Academy at Villa Medici hosts artists from France and provides exhibitions and festivals throughout the year. Viale Trinità dei Monti 1, tel. 066761305, www.villamedici.it. GERMAN ACADEMY The German Academy offers German artists, writers, musicians and architects the opportunity to study in Rome. Largo di Villa Massimo 1, tel. 064425931, www.deutsche-kultur-international.de. GERMAN HISTORICAL INSTITUTE This institute conducts research into the history of Germany and Italy, in particular the relations between both countries. Via Aurelia Antica 391, tel. 066604921, www.dhi-roma.it. GOETHE INSTITUT The Goethe Institut promotes education in Italy about German culture, language and history. Via Savoia 15, tel. 068440051, www.goethe.de. HUNGARIAN ACADEMY The Academy of Hungary in Rome hosts concerts, literary events and exhibitions by Hungarian artists and scholars. Via Giulia 1, tel. 066889671, www.roma.balassiintezet.hu.

KOREAN CULTURAL INSTITUTE The Korean Cultural Institute promotes Korean culture in Italy and periodically offers cultural events, concerts, art exhibitions and courses ranging from Korean language to cuisine. Via Nomentana 12, tel. 06441633, www.culturacorea.it. NORWEGIAN INSTITUTE The Norwegian Institute in Rome offers undergraduate and graduate courses in art history, ancient studies and Italian. Viale 30 Aprile 33, tel. 0658391007, www.hf.uio.no. POLISH CULTURAL INSTITUTE Institution dedicated to Polish history and culture as well as the promotion of dialogue between Poland and Italy. Via Vittoria Colonna 1, tel. 0636000723,www.istitutopolacco.it. POLISH ACADEMY OF SCIENCE The Polish Academy is a research centre for the humanities and a scientific exchange between Poland and Italy. Vicolo Doria 2, tel. 066792170, www.accademiapolacca.it. ROMANIAN ACADEMY The Romanian Academy hosts events and promotes cultural relations between Romania and Italy. Piazza Josè di S. Martin 1, tel. 063201594, www.accadromania.it. RUSSIAN INSTITUTE OF CULTURE AND LANGUAGE The Russian Institute provides classes in Russian language and culture. Via Farini 62, tel. 064870137.

INSTITUTO CERVANTES Instituto Cervantes is a cultural institution created to promote the teaching of Spanish language and culture. Via di Villa Albani 16, tel. 068551949, www.cervantes.es.

SPANISH ACADEMY The Spanish Academy hosts artists in many fields of study and holds events that provide a cultural bridge between Spain and Italy. Piazza S. Pietro in Montorio 3, tel. 065818607, www.raer.it.

ITALIAN INSTITUTE FOR LATIN AMERICA The Italo-Latin American Institute facilitates research into the cultural, scientific, economic and social aspects of Italy and Latin American countries. Via Giovanni Paisiello 24, tel. 06684921, www.iila.org.

SWEDISH INSTITUTE OF CLASSICAL STUDIES The Swedish Institute is a research centre dedicated to scientific research in art and archaeology. Via Omero 14, tel. 063201596, www.isvroma.it.

JAPANESE CULTURAL INSTITUTE The Japanese Cultural Institute hosts hosts regular cultural events and also offers courses in Japanese. Via Gramsci 74, tel. 063224754, www.jfroma.it. KEATS-SHELLEY MEMORIAL HOUSE Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235,www.keats-shelley-house.it.

SWISS INSTITUTE The Swiss Institute offers exhibitions, events and classes dedicated to the culture of Switzerland. Via Ludovisi 48, tel. 064814234, www.istitutosvizzero.it.

ROME'S MAJOR

MUSEUMS VATICAN MUSEUMS Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums

Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

STATE MUSEUMS Baths of Diocletian

Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Borghese Museum

Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

24 | April 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Crypta Balbi

Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's modern art collection. Mon closed.

MAXXI

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.

S Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS Casa di Goethe

CITY MUSEUMS

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Centrale Montemartini

Chiostro Del Bramante

Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

tudy abroad or earn your degree in Rome

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun.

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Galleria Colonna

Capitoline Museums

Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.

All classes in English Scholarships availableGiorgio de Chirico House Museum MATTATOIO MACRO Asilo

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space until the end of 2019. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Accepting applications Fall 2020 Museofor di Roma – Palazzo Braschi Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking.

Keats-Shelley House

Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking.

Museo storico della Liberazione

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it. Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from 1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.

Museo Canonica

MUSJA

Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).

Museo Napoleonico

Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.

Privately owned museum dedicated to modern and contemporary Italian and international art. Via dei Chiavari 7, tel. 0668210213, www.musja.it.

Palazzo Merulana

Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it. Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection, including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation. 09.00-20.00. Tues closed.

www.johncabot.edu admissions@johncabot.edu

Wanted in Rome • April 2020 | 25

MAXXI amazes you, ROME'S MAJOR always art

architecture MUSEUMS design

VATICAN MUSEUMS Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums

Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

STATE MUSEUMS Baths of Diocletian

Borghese Museum

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

26 | April 2020 • Wanted in Rome

photography Crypta Balbi Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeocinema logia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

MAXXI

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS Casa di Goethe

CITY MUSEUMS

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Centrale Montemartini

Chiostro Del Bramante

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Galleria Colonna

Capitoline Museums

Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

MACRO Asilo

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space until the end of 2019. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.

MATTATOIO

Giorgio de Chirico House Museum

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

Keats-Shelley House

Museo storico della Liberazione

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Museo Canonica

MUSJA

Museo Napoleonico

Privately owned museum dedicated to modern and contemporary Italian and international art. Via dei Chiavari 7, tel. 0668210213, www.musja.it.

Palazzo Merulana

Wanted in Rome • April 2020 | 27

ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY

ART GALLERIES

1/9 Unosunove

1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.

A.A.M. Architettura

Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ff-maam.it.

Contemporary Cluster

Visual art, design, architecture, fashion design and beauty apothecary in a 17th-century palace. Via dei Barbieri 7, tel. 0668805928, www.contemporarycluster.com.

C.R.E.T.A.

Cultural association promoting ceramics and the visual, humanistic, musical and culinary arts through workshops, exhibitions and artist residencies. Palazzo Delfini, Via dei Delfini 17, tel. 0689827701, www.cretarome.com.

Dorothy Circus Gallery

Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.

Ex Elettrofonica

This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.

Fondazione Memmo

Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.

Fondazione Pastificio Cerere

This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pastificiocerere.com.

Fondazione Volume!

The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.

28 | April 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Franz Paludetto

Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.

Frutta

This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via dei Salumi 53 tel. 0645508934, www.fruttagallery.com.

Gagosian Gallery

The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

GALLA

Exhibition space designed to showcase original, unconventional art works at affordable prices by artists working in various fields. Via degli Zingari 28, tel. 3476552515, www.facebook.com/GALLAmonti.

Galleria Alessandro Bonomo

Gallery showing the works of important Italian and international visual artists. Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858, www.bonomogallery.com.

Galleria Valentina Bonomo

Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works specifically for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte

Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Galleria della Tartaruga

Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.

Galleria Il Segno

Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.

Galleria Mucciaccia

Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.

Galleria Russo

Operativa Arte Contemporanea

A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.

Pian de Giullari

This historic gallery holds group and solo exhibitions showcasing the work of major 20th-century Italian painters alongside promising new Italian artists. Via Alibert 20, tel. 066789949, www.galleriarusso.it.

Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.

Galleria Varsi

Plus Arte Puls

A dynamic gallery near Campo deâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di Grotta Pinta 38, tel. 066865415, www.galleriavarsi.it.

Gavin Brown's Enterprise

New York gallerist Gavin Brown shows the work of international artists at his Trastevere gallery in a deconsecrated church dating to the eighth century. S. Andrea de Scaphis, Via dei Vascellari 69, www.gavinbrown.biz.

Il Ponte Contemporanea

Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls.com.

RvB ARTS

Rome-based gallery specialising in affordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www.rvbarts.com.

Sala 1

Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via Giuseppe Acerbi 31A, tel. 0653098768, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.

This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.

La Nuova Pesa

S.T. Foto libreria galleria

Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.

Magazzino dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Arte Moderna

Contemporary art gallery that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.

Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri

The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.

T293

Monitor

The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it.

Nero Gallery

The Gallery Apart

Space dedicated to showcasing young international artists working in pop surrealism, lowbrow art, dark art, comic art and surrealism. Via Castruccio Castracane 9, tel. 0627801418, www.nerogallery.com.

This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.

Nomas Foundation

TraleVolte

This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, tel. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.

Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.

Contemporary art gallery focusing on the relationship between art and architecture, hosting solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org.

White Noise Gallery

Based in the S. Lorenzo district, this gallery exhibits unconventional work by young Italian and international artists. Via della Seggiola 9, tel. 066832833, www.whitenoisegallery.it.

Wunderkammern

This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www.wunderkammern.net.

Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin

Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria offers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it. Wanted in Rome â&#x20AC;˘ April 2020 | 29

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where to go in Rome WHAT’S ON

Cinema da casa. See page 32.

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WHAT’S ON IN THE TIME OF CORONAVIRUS The Covid-19 lockdown may have led to the closure of museums and cultural venues until 13 April, and probably for even longer. But the closures have also led to a spurt in new creativity and different cultural activities online. Our usual What’s On format has therefore changed too, at least for this edition. Rome’s cultural scene has responded to this unprecedented scenario with an exciting level of creativity and online ingenuity for which we should all be very proud. We list some of the main initiatives here, all of which can be enjoyed from your home. We hope, for everyone’s sake, to return to our normal programming as soon as possible, although we imagine, and hope, that the new initiatives may well continue even when life returns to normal. Unintentionally the cultural centres will by then have managed to enlarge their audiences and taken the arts out of their usual geographical locations to those who do not necessarily have the time or inclination to go out to a concert or exhibition or opera but who are very happy to visit it online in their own time. Who would have thought it possible, for example, to listen to a wonderful production of Bizet’s Carmen at home, hundreds of kilometres away from the opera house in Turin? Many of these initiatives also provide even more indepth information that we wouldn’t get normally. In the meantime we remember all those affected by this emergency – the victims, patients and their families, and the brave doctors and nurses working tirelessly on the front line.

ITALY’S CULTURE NEVER STOPS - DESPITE A LOCKDOWN

How to enjoy Italian culture from the comfort of your home. La cultura non si ferma (Culture never stops) is a new page on the website of Italy’s culture ministry, outlining the multiple virtual initiatives available across Italy while the country is in lockdown. Divided into six sections - Museums, Books, Cinema, Music, Education and Theatre - the page features video posts by art historians, archaeologists, archivists, librarians, restorers, architects, writers, actors and musicians. The initiative involves virtual tours of museums, music and theatrical performances, readings, insights into masterpieces and behindthe-scenes peeks into Italy’s cultural institutions. The ministry describes it as “a rich cultural offer accessible from home that allows Italians to stay in touch with art and culture even in these difficult circumstances.” The initiatives are updated daily and can be followed with the hashtags #iorestoacasa and #ioleggoacasa. For full listings see website. www.beniculturali.it.

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Culture never stops is the title of a social media campaign by Italy's culture ministry.

LOCKDOWN ROME LIGHTS UP WITH CINEMA BY NIGHT

With Rome in total lockdown, numerous initiatives have taken place to raise spirits, notably the balcony singsongs each evening at 18.00. Another uplifting campaign, Cinema da casa, takes place four hours later, in a growing number of suburbs around the capital. Behind the initiative is Alice in Città, the independent sidebar of the Rome Film Festival dedicated to children,

directed by Fabia Bettini and Gianluca Giannelli. Cinema da casa involves bringing the big screen to a city in quarantine, beaming scenes from much-loved films onto the walls of apartment blocks. Anyone with a projector can take part, or else tune in to Alice in Città on Facebook and watch live at 22.00. “The initiative was born by chance” – says Bettini – “after the children told us that the city was dark and silent.” It began in the Trieste-Salario area of

Cinema da casa lights up lockdown Rome.

the capital and was soon joined by other districts including S. Lorenzo, Appia, Centocelle and Monte Mario. Such was the popularity of the Roman initiative that it has since spread to other Italian cities such as Turin, Pisa, So far the most requested scenes come from movies such as Giuseppe Tornatore’s Nuovo Cinema Paradiso, as well as Miracolo a Milano by Vittorio De Sica and Charlie Chaplin’s Modern Times, as well as international films including Forrest Gump, Pulp Fiction, Mary Poppins and The Aristocats. “We have chosen 22.00 to make everyone go to sleep with a slightly lighter heart”, says Bettini. Tune in to the Alice in Città Facebook page for join the fun.

HOW ROME’S ENGLISHLANGUAGE BOOKSHOPS ARE COPING WITH SHUTDOWN

Rome’s English-language bookshops are battling the difficult days of lockdown with a series of initiatives and promotions. The Anglo American Bookshop, near Piazza di Spagna, says it will be back to business as soon as the government allows all non-essential shops to reopen their doors. In the meantime it is staying active on its social media accounts – Instagram and Facebook – and it also has a website, www.aab.it, where people can check and order its available stock. Orders will be shipped as soon as the shop reopens. The owners have also sent Wanted in Rome a reading list of suggested books to help you

get through the lockdown. Fiction: The Girl With the Louding Voice by Abi Dare; Greenwood by Michael Christie; The Mirror and the Light by Hilary Mantel; Weather by Jenny Offill; The Mercies by Kiran Millwood Hargrave. Non fiction: Spillover by David Quammen; Buy Yourself the F*cking Lilies by Tara Schuster; Brother & Sister by Diane Keaton; In the Court of King Crimson by Sid Smith; Uncanny Valley by Anna Wiener. The Almost Corner Bookshop in Trastevere is attempting to “beat Covid-19 through culture” by offering the possibility to buy ‘Almost vouchers’ between now and 3 April, or until further notice. How do the vouchers work? For every €10 spent you will have €5 extra to spend on books as soon as the shop is able to reopen. To buy a voucher all you have to do make out a money transfer to: Almost Corner Bookshop Srl, IBAN:

IT90V0306903287100000003067, payment description: Voucher ACBookshop plus name and surname. Otherwise, near Piazza Navona, has set up a book delivery service through the OtherQuestionnaire (see ‘Otherwise Bookshop Facebook’ page). By answering a few questions, the shop says it will be able to “select the books you want, and those you didn’t know you wanted!” Readers are free to contact the shop on email, Facebook or Instagram after answering the questionnaire, or to enquire about other titles that they might have in stock. The shop says it is glad to offer free delivery via courier on all local orders of two books or more. The Little Reader, a children's bookshop in the Esquilino area which stocks books from babies to teens in English and Italian, is currently doing home deliveries for no extra cost. For reading suggestions and orders, send a Facebook message or email: info@ thelittlereader.it.

AMERICAN ACADEMY IN ROME CLOSES EARLY

With Rome’s foreign academies currently closed and their cultural programmes suspended “until further notice”, the American Academy in Rome has gone one step further and has made the “difficult decision” to close its campus early, on 3 April. In a statement it said: “While the situation continues to rapidly change in both Italy and the

English-language bookshop Otherwise

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“Distant but united by the love of reading. Far away, but connected.” For details see website, www. bibliotechediroma.it.

ROME FROM YOUR WINDOW

Finestre su Roma photo competition

United States, it is clear that this will continue for months. The AAR has done its best to keep the community safe in the weeks since the COVID-19 outbreak in Italy, but is no longer able to house everyone until the end of the fellowship year. All who are able to leave before April 3 are being encouraged to do so. We will continue to support our fellows in every way we can, including the continuation of stipends through the fellowship period.” The news comes as the academy celebrates its 125th year in Rome and prepares to welcome a new director, the Israeli historian and educator Avinoam Shalem who will take up his position at the start of July. Shalem is currently professor for the Arts of Islam in the department of art history and archaeology at Columbia University. Born in Haifa, he studied at the University of Tel Aviv and the University of Munich before earning a PhD from the University of Edinburgh in 1995. He specialises in the history of Islamic art, with a strong emphasis on Arab art in the Mediterranean Basin, the Near East and the Levant, as well as in Spain, southern Italy and Sicily. Shalem succeeds John Oschsendorf who will return to the US on conclusion of his three-year term in June. For full details see www.aar.org.

ROME’S LIBRARIES OPEN VIRTUALLY

The libraries of Rome have open their doors virtually, making their ebooks and digital resources available to their members for free. By simply registering online, also free of charge, via BiblioTu you will have access to more than 7,000 ebooks, over 7,100 periodicals from 90 countries in 40 different languages, more than 77,000 music recordings, 127 audiobooks, 93 databases and digital collections, including widely-distributed newspapers and magazines. The city says there are other literary resources available on BiblioTu, on the Youtube channel of MediatecaRoma and on the social network pages of the capital’s libraries, under the motto:

Rome from your Window, or Finestre su Roma, is the title of a photography competition announced by the city at a time when residents of the capital are required to stay at home. The contest, which runs until 3 April, invites residents to capture the views from their homes in an initiative aimed at creating a “collective story of the city Rome as it has never been seen before.” In addition to being open to images of well-known views, the competition is seeking in particular the unusual and unexpected: “historic city, suburbs and modern life, internal gardens, courtyards and front windows, frames of reference in our everyday lives.” Photos can be shared on your Twitter, Facebook and Instagram accounts by tagging the city’s superintendency of cultural heritage (@Sovrintendenza) and inserting the hashtag #Romadallafinestra. The best photos selected by a special jury will be used as the cover images of the Sovrintendenza Capitolina ai Beni Culturali social media channels for a week and will be put together in a gallery on the website, on the Facebook page and in an IG story. For details see Sovrintendenza website, www.sovraintendenzaroma.it.

ROME OPERA HOUSE DANCERS TRAIN AT HOME

Teatro dell’Opera di Roma is closed but that hasn’t stopped its dancers and ballerinas from their training

Rome opera house dancers keep up their training at home.

Wanted in Rome • April 2020 | 35

programme which has moved from the splendour of the opera house to their own homes. This new domestic training environment has its perks - no commute and the chance to enjoy a home-brewed cup of coffee - however it also presents its unique challenges, namely little children and dogs, who can’t resist joining in. Teatro dell’Opera has released an endearing video of its quarantined dancers, practicing what they do best, while also reading and doing the household chores, many of them accompanied in their work-outs by their partners and children. Set to the music of Strauss’s The Blue Danube, the video concludes with the dancers - including the head of dance at Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Eleonora Abbagnato - uniting in their appeal to respect Italy’s quarantine measures with the message #IoRestoaCasa (I stay at home). Watch the video – at least once – it will lift your spirits. See Teatro dell’Opera di Roma page on Youtube and on our website.

ITALY, I LOVE YOU

Marina Abramović, the renowned performance artist, has released a moving video message addressed to Italy as part of In Touch, a new digital project at Palazzo Strozzi in Florence. Referring to Italy’s Coronavirus emergency, Abramović says that the “Italian people are showing great courage, great feeling for community and humanity” in this “moment of crisis.” While noting that “We are going to fight this together”, she said that we “must learn a lesson” from the disaster of the pandemic, changing “our approach to our world and our planet.” “This is the lesson that we have to learn” - says Abramović who concludes her message with: “Italy, I love you. And my heart is with you.” Italy has played a significant role in Abramović’s life and art, writes The Art Newspaper, which highlights two memorable performances by the artist. The first was Rhythm 0 (1974), a six-hour installation at Studio Morra in Naples during which Abramović stood still while visitors were permitted to do whatever they pleased to her using one of 72 objects on display, including a loaded gun. Perhaps her best known Italian

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ASTROLOGO MAKES NEW VIDEO FOR ITALY

Marina Abramović addressed Italy in a video message as part of the In Touch digital project at Palazzo Strozzi in Florence.

installation was Imponderabilia, in 1977, when she and her then-partner Ulay (who died recently) both stood naked at the entrance of Bologna’s Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna, forcing visitors to squeeze past them to enter. Italy’s first retrospective of Abramović’s work was held in 2018 at Palazzo Strozzi which describes its In Touch digital project as a “new interaction with our audience in an effort to ‘remote-trigger’ a debate through the language that we know best, the language of art.” For details see website, www.palazzostrozzi.org.

MUSJA TURNS TO SPOTIFY

Musja, the new private museum of contemporary art in central Rome, is staying active during the lockdown by presenting an online programme of music. The museum has released a Spotify list of songs inspired by the works in its collection or on display in its ongoing (but sadly closed) exhibition The Dark Side - Who is afraid of the dark? Musj(c) a, the museum’s first playlist on Spotify, has paired I’m on fire by Bruce Springsteen with the incinerated tunnel by Gregor Schneider while Difendere i mostri dalle persone by Tre allegri ragazzi morti has been matched with the grotesque masks of Monster Chetwynd. The museum says the online initiative is designed to “share culture while having fun together” and hopes that the list will be added to by its fans and past visitors of its first exhibition. See www.musja.it.

Acclaimed Italian videomaker Oliver Astrologo recently released a new video to remind Italians of the country’s tremendous beauty, particularly during these difficult times. The video has gone viral. “What a weird people we are, us Italians, we love contradictions. We live in the most beautiful country in the world and we act as if we don’t know it.” Referring to the nationwide lockdown, the video continues: “Only now that its streets are empty and that all we can do is just enjoy its beauty looking out the window. Surrounded by silence out country looks to us even more wonderful. And we miss its beauty.” Narrated by Italian actor Paolo Buglioni, the video is a visual celebration of Italy’s beautiful landscapes and sites, its people, traditions, craftsmanship and creativity, from north to south. The video concludes with a message of hope and national pride: “However one thing should cheer us up, which is that once this drama is over we will fill those squares again. The beauty of our country will still be there for us to enjoy, because there, right outside our windows, there will still be our beloved, most beautiful country.” See Oliver Astrologo page on Youtube.

ITALY CELEBRATES DANTE

With Italy in lockdown as it battles Covid-19, the country’s cultural events – big and small – have been called off or moved online. However this was certainly not the case with

Italy's logo for Dantedì

Dantedì – Italy’s first celebration of an annual national day dedicated to the 13th-century Florentine poet Dante Alighieri, known as the father of the Italian language. Dantedì was marked on 25 March, the date identified by scholars as the start of the journey to the afterlife in Dante’s Divine Comedy. Italy encouraged people to read and share Dante’s “verses of timeless charm” on social networks, with streamed readings and performances posted alongside the hashtags #Dantedì and #IoleggoDante. Italy’s culture minister Dario Franceschini said: “Dante is the Italian language, he is the very idea of Italy. And it is precisely at this time that it is even more important to remember him in order to stay united.” With Italy’s schools closed, the country’s education minister Lucia Azzolina invited teachers and students to “rediscover” Dante during their long-distance virtual lessons, uniting through the “common thread of poetry.” The two ministries, along with schools, museums, theatres, archaeological parks, libraries, archives and cultural venues, flooded their social accounts (@MiBACT and @MiurSocial) with images, videos, works of art and rare editions of The Divine Comedy to celebrate the mediaeval poet and the profound effect he has had in shaping Italy’s cultural identity. Theatrical festivals and companies across Italy answered the call enthusiastically, including the Ravenna Festival whose 2020 edition is inspired by the “dolce color d’oriental zaffiro”, or “the gentle hue of oriental sapphire” that Dante describes on his arrival at the beach of Purgatory. With the first edition of Dantedì now behind us, Italy can continue planning its preparations to mark the 700th anniversary of Dante’s death with a programme of commemorative events in 2021.

VIRTUAL VISIT TO GARDEN OF NINFA

Normally in the April edition of the magazine we bring you our annual garden guide. Not so this year unfortunately. But don’t despair, garden lovers: perhaps the most beautiful garden of them all

Make a virtual visit to Ninfa Gardens this spring.

can be now visited online. Ninfa is located about 80 km south-east of Rome near Sermoneta at the foot of the Lepini mountains. During its closure fans of Ninfa can check in to admire the garden’s spring blooms thanks to the social media campaign #distantimavicini (far away but near) on Youtube (Fondazione Roffredo Caetani) and Instagram (giardinodininfa). Belonging to the Caetani family since the 14th century, the site was abandoned in 1382 but in the early 1920s the Caetani family began to create the garden as it is today. Spread out over eight hectares, this romantic English-style garden has over 10,000 shrubs, plants and flowering trees from all over the world growing among the mediaeval ruins. The river Ninfa forms a lake in the garden which over the years has hosted 100 species of bird. For full details see website, www. fondazionecaetani.org.

George and sister-in-law Georgiana in Kentucky, with the following suggestion: "I shall read a passage of Shakespeare every Sunday at ten oClock – you read one at the same time and we shall be as near each other as blind bodies can be in the same room." Organisers say that by emulating "this ingenious plan, we hope to harness reading’s intimate introspection, and also create a Keatsian community across our own various and hopefully temporary isolations." Each week’s text will be announced on the KSH Twitter account and Facebook page, where you can leave a comment or suggest a future reading. For full details see KSH website, www.keats-shelleyhouse.org.

KEATS-SHELLEY HOUSE SYNCHRONISED READING

Reading alone and together, near and far, while in isolation. KeatsShelley House is starting a weekly synchronised reading group, every Wednesday at midday (GMT), beginning on 1 April, during this period of isolation in many countries. The initiative involves reading a short passage in the isolation of your home for about 15 minutes. The invitation to read "alone and together" is extended to everyone, regardless of their location or time zone. The idea was inspired by John Keats who, on 16 December 1818, wrote from London to his brother

Reading with Keats-Shelley House.

Wanted in Rome • April 2020 | 37

Quadriennale d’arte, Roma 2016. Courtesy Fondazione La Quadriennale di Roma. Photo OKNOstudio.

ART NEWS MAXXI CELEBRATES TEN YEARS

MAXXI, Italy’s national museum of 21st century art, marks its 10th birthday in 2020. Speaking before the nationwide lockdown came into effect in early March, MAXXI president Giovanni Melandri said: “The national museum of arts, architecture, photography does not want to celebrate itself, rather it expands, strengthens and develops the guidelines of an ambitious expositive, cultural and social project.” Melandri launched the 2020 programme of events – including 18 new exhibitions and special artistic projects – alongside Italy’s culture minister Dario Franceschni who praised the “extraordinary work” at MAXXI – designed by Zaha Hadid – since its inauguration on 30 May 2010. Franceschini has increased state funding for MAXXI, saying “an investment in creativity must be made in the country”, announcing that work is underway to acquire works by artists such as Accardi, Cattelan, Fabro, Ghirri and Kounellis. Central to 2020 will be the opening of a MAXXI modern art museum in L’Aquila, the earthquake-hit capital of the Abruzzo region. It is still planned that the museum, located in the Flaminio district not far from the Auditorium Parco della Musica, is scheduled to be inaugurated by Franceschini on 21 June. Over the last decade there were 3,328,000 visitors, with the annual number of visitors in 2019 more than double the amount in 2010. Tickets generated €12.7 million, with ticket revenue increasing steadily over the last five years. As with all other museums in Italy ticket sales will be badly hit by the lockdown during the

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Covid-19 emergency but MAXXI is making special efforts to reach out to a new virtual audience online.

RETURN OF QUADRIENNALE

The Quadrenniale di Roma, a major showcase of contemporary art in the capital, is planned at the Palazzo delle Esposizioni this autumn. The 17th edition of the event continues a tradition begun in 1931 and will open at the Via Nazionale venue on 1 October. The event, which enjoys the support of the Italian culture ministry, will feature the work of around 40 artists in an exhibition that will propose an “unprecedented perspective” on Italian art. Quadrenniale president Umberto Croppi said that the event – curated by Sarah Cosulich – would act as a grand revival for Italian contemporary art. An €8 million construction project is nearing completion for the Quadriennale’s new headquarters at the former papal arsenal building at Porta Portese. The site was once used for the construction and maintenance of the papal fleet, with access to the Ripa Grande port on the Tiber below. The papal arsenal was commissioned by Pope Clement XI and its design, by an unknown architect, was based on the larger papal arsenal at Civitavecchia, designed by Bernini and concluded by Carlo Fontana. The Rome complex opened for business in 1715 and remained in operation until the end of the 19th century when the building of the Tiber’s muraglioni walls put an end to the old river port. For details see website, www.quadriennalediroma.org. Andy Devane

CLASSICAL S. Cecilia at home keeps playing on Instagram and on RaiCultura S. Cecilia Academia is producing a wonderful series of short Instagrams showing its soloists at home. First there was a heartfelt thanks from its music director Antonio Pappano, who was talking from London, to all the S. Cecilia season ticket holders who have donated their ticket money from their unused concerts to keep the orchestra and chorus going rather than ask for refunds. Then came Instagrams of the first violinist, the flautist, the cellist and the head of the programme for children. In addition to the snippets of music they play and suggest, it is a real cheer-up call to see and hear these musicians talking to us from their homes, with little insights into how they are coping with the lockdown. These are the people of the orchestra and chorus we seldom see and often take for granted. They are bringing S. Cecilia home to us in an unexpected and imaginative way. S. Cecilia and the national

S. Cecilia keeps during the lockdown.

broadcaster Rai Cultura, are also providing recordings of a selection of the orchestra’s previously televised concerts on the RaiPlay platform every Thursday (19.30), Friday (20.30) and Saturday 18.00. See www.santacecilia.it/ concerti for the concerts planned. Until the end of April the wonderfully lyrical documentary Il Carattere Italiano by Angelo

Bozzolini about the S. Cecilia orchestra and chorus and its many prestigious conductors is available on the academy’s website. The photography is first rate, as are the interviews, revealing a great deal not only about the people involved with the orchestra but also about music in itself, and of course the Italian character as the title suggests.

DANCE and opera Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, S. Carlo di Napoli and the Teatro Regio Torino come to you at home The Teatro dell’Opera di Rome is offering a delightful ITGV video on Instagram of its dancers practising at home, in the kitchen, on the terrace, in the living room, even when brushing their teeth. The little children in the family and the pets also join the daily exercises. Teatro S. Carlo in Naples has produced something similar and is also offering a series of events under #stageathome. These include Tchaikovsky’s The Nutcracker

(25 March), Rossini’s Ermione (28 March), Puccini’s Manon (1 April), Bizet’s Carmen (4 April) and Stravinsky’s ballet Pucinella (6 April). They all start at 20.00 and can be found on the S.Carlo di Napoli Twitter, Facebook and Instagram accounts. There will also be backstage interviews and special programmes available on RaiPlay, YouTube and Opera Vision. And just to cheer us all up S. Carlo is advertising a list of its productions in May. The Teatro Regio di Torino is offering cheering talks and

videos from its staff on Instagram #proudtoberegio. Under the heading Siamo Pronti a Repartire the opera house has already rescheduled most of its March productions into the second half of April. #operaonthesofa provides videos of previous productions and rehearsals on YouTube. These include its 2018-2019 season production of Rossini’s Italiana in Algeri and this season’s Bizet’s Carmen. You will find the link and the programme dates on the opera’s website www.teatroregio. torino.it. Wanted in Rome • April 2020 | 39

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ART Exploring MAXXI during the Covid-19 emergency

Liberi di Uscire Col Pensiero or “Explore with your mind” is the slogan that MAXXI, Museo Nazionale delle arti del XXI secolo has chosen for its initiatives during the enforced closure for the Covid-19 emergency. All its suggestions are located on the museum’s website and under #imstayingathomewithmaxxi. There are an enormous number of

options. These include the collection itself, the story of MAXXI’s ten-year history, video presentations from the curators of each section, as well as workshops for families and children. There is a section on Film at MAXXI about the documentaries that would have competed March in the ExtraDoc Festival organised in conjunction with Fondazione Cinema per Rome. And MAXXI is also putting together a new project called A new World with artists and scientists to look at what is happening to us now and what it will mean for the future. Another section full of hope is about MAXXI L’Aquila which should be opening on 12 June in the recently

restored baroque Palazzo Ardinghelli in L’Aquila. This new space in the heart of the old city will be dedicated to artistic and cultural initiatives in the central Abruzzo region of Italy. In 2009 the region was devastated by an 6.3 magnitude earthquake, which destroyed most of the ancient city of L’Aquila. There will also be space in the magnificent palace for new MAXXI collections of art, architecture and photographs, as well as temporary exhibitions and educational programmes. www.maxxi.art www.romacinemafest.it/tag/extra-docfestival/ maxxilaquila.art/

RAICULTURA State broadcaster RAI has a vast choice of subjects – cinema, science, philosophy, music, theatre, dance and opera, on its Rai Cultura programmes. Here are just a few of the examples. The philosophy section comes under the heading “Le grande sfide del presente”. Theatre and dance have imaginative sections called Interpretare un coreografia, I suoni nello spazio and Costruire la scenografia. Science with Lincei per il clima has a selection of texts and videos on climate change. These are just examples of much, much more.

RAFFAELLO AT LE SCUDERIE DEL QUIRINALE

Two videos on YouTube under the Italiachiamò initiative of the ministry of culture (MIBAC) are of the before opening and after closing of the Raffaello exhibition. The exhibition opened on 5 March, just four days before the lockdown in Italy, and should sadly shut on 2 June. Hopefully the date will be extended. The first video shows the people who have worked on the exhibition taking the literally priceless works by Raffaello out of their cases with such evident wonder and care. The other shows the same works being put back into their boxes to keep them safe, “messo al buio” and “put to sleep”. There is a charming scene at the end of the second video which features Mario De Simoni the head of Ales, an in-house company of the ministry of culture that provides services for Italian museums and galleries, especially Le Scuderie. He talks about what he calls one of the works that probably would not normally receive much attention, The Visitation of the Virgin Mary to her cousin Elizabeth. It was painted about 1517 for the father of Giovanbattista Branconio dell’Aquila, a papal official and a friend of Raffaello. The painting was placed in the Branconio chapel in the church of S. Silvestro in L’Aquila and plundered from there by Spanish troops in 1655. It has been part of the

The Visitation by Raphael

Prado collection since 1837. De Simoni points out that in the painting Elizabeth is holding the hand of her pregnant cousin Mary, a normal gesture in ordinary times, he says, but not in these days; one which he hopes we shall all be able to return to before long. There is also another informative YouTube talk about Raeffello’s work (some of which are now at the Scuderie) by the director of the Uffizi, Eike Schmidt. In one section he compares the two portraits of the Doni, Florence art collectors, with those of the Duke of Urbino (Guidobaldo da Montefeltro) and his wife (Elisabetta Gonzaga) painted before he arrived in Florence. It is under the La Cultura non si Ferma initiative by the ministry of culture and #iorestoacasa. The Scuderie website also has a 12-minute virtual tour of the exhibition, www.scuderiequirinale.it. Wanted in Rome • April 2020 | 41

lassical lassical

The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a definitive list of all the music that is available in the city. The following is a list of the main musical There are also concerts in many of the associations in Rome but it is not a definitive churches and sometimes in the museums. list of all the music that is available in the city. There are also concerts in many of the Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della churches and sometimes in the museums. Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Auditorium Conciliazione, ViaP. de della Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Accademia Filarmonica Teatro Auditorium Parco della Romana, Musica, Viale P. de Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro starts on 15 Oct Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season concerts Parco della Musica. The startsat onAuditorium 15 Oct newAccademia season startsS. on 5Cecilia, Oct www.santacecilia.it. All

concerts Universitaria at Auditorium Parco della Musica. Istituzione dei Concerti, AulaThe newUniversità season starts on 5 Oct www.concertiiuc.it Magna, la Sapienza,

Istituzione Universitaria deiGonfalone Concerti,32a, Aula Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it www.oratoriogonfalone.com Oratorio delMethodist Gonfalone, Via delPiazza Gonfalone 32a, RomeConcerts, Church, Ponte www.oratoriogonfalone.com S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it RomeConcerts, Piazza Ponte Roma Sinfonietta, Methodist AuditoriumChurch, Ennio Morricone, S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Roma Auditorium Roma Tre Sinfonietta, Orchestra, some concertsEnnio are atMorricone, Teatro Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others at Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are are at Teatro the Aula Magna, Piazza Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, 8, Palladium, Bartolomeo Romano Universita Roma Tre, Via while Ostienze teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, others234, are at www.r30.org the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Tre,festivals Via Ostienze 234, There are oftenRoma concerts, and opera www.r30.org recitals in several churches in Rome.

often concerts, festivals and153, opera All There Saints' are Anglican Church, Via Babuino recitals in several churches in Rome. www.allsaintsrome.org All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. www.allsaintsrome.org Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7 Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com

Oratorio del Caravita, Caravita St Paul's Within the Walls,Via Viadella Nazionale and7 the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the S. Agnese Sagrestia del Borromini, corner ofin ViaAgone, Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it Piazza Navona S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Palazzo PiazzaDoria NavonaPamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum Serenades by Night Dinner throughout and Opera dinner afterwards. Viawith del Corso 305, the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum www.doriapamphilj.com and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com Jan 2019 • Wanted 5044 |48 Oct 2018 • Wanted in in Rome | |April 2020 • Wanted inRome Rome

MUSIC MUSIC THEATR THEATRE CINEMA CINEMA VENUES VENUES

MUSIC THEATRE CINEMA DANCE OPERA

inema inema

The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wantedshow in Rome website for The following cinemas movies in English weekly updates. or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for Adriano, Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 weeklyPiazza updates. Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 0686391361 Barberini, Piazza BarberiniMastroianni 24-26, 1, tel. Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello 0686391361 tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it 068553485 Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 068553485 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 066861068 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 066861068 Odeon, Piazza Stefano 22, tel. Nuovo Sacher, LargoJacini Ascianghi 1, 0686391361 tel. 065818116

Space Moderno, Piazza della 44, tel. Odeon, Piazza Stefano JaciniRepubblica 22, tel. 0686391361 06892111 Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebec06892111 chini 3-5, tel. 06892111 Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111

ddance oopera p pop r ock r ance

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano www.teatrovascello.it 17, www.teatroolimpico.it

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it

pera

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

ock

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Concert venues ranging from major pop and Alexanderplatz, 9, tel. 0683775604 rock groups to Via jazzOstia and acoustic gigs. www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org Angelo Mai Via Atlantico delle Terme di Atlantico, VialeAltrove, dell’Oceano 271d, Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it

Atlantico, Viale Atlantico Auditorium Parcodell’Oceano della Musica, Viale 271d, P. de tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com Auditorium della Viale de Casa del Jazz, Parco Viale di PortaMusica, Ardeatina 55,P.tel. Coubertin,www.casajazz.it tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com 06704731,

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

heatre heatre

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net www.teatrobelli.it Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobelli.it www.teatrobrancaccio.it Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatrobrancaccio.it www.teatroghione.it Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. www.teatroghione.it 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net

PalaLottomatica, Piazzale Sport 1, tel. Rock in Roma, Via Appiadello Nuova 1245, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it www.teatrosangenesio.it Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsiwww.teatrosangenesio.it stina.it Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.ilsistina.it www.teatrovascello.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Vittoria,www.teatrovascello.it Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. tel. 065898031, 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it 51 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome

ddance oopera p pop r ock r ance

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

pera

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

ock

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

heatre heatre

Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com Lanificio 159,ViaVia di Pietralata 159, Live Alcazar, Cardinale Merry del Valtel. 14, 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com Live Alcazar, Merry del 35, Val 14, Monk Club, Via ViaCardinale Giuseppe Mirri tel. tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com 0664850987, www.monkroma.it Monk Club, ViaPiazzale Giuseppe Mirri 35,1, tel. PalaLottomatica, dello Sport tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it PalaLottomatica, Piazzale Sport 1, tel. Rock in Roma, Via Appiadello Nuova 1245, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

Rome’s artart capital continues to to grow with newnew murals by important Italian and Rome'sreputation reputationasasananimportant importantstreet street capital continues grow with murals by important Italian international streetstreet artistsartists appearing all the all time. the works located the suburbs, often far often from the and international appearing theMost time.ofMost of theare works are in located in the suburbs, far centre. Here is where to is find Rome’s mainthe street artstreet projects murals. from the centre. Here where to find main artand projects and murals around Rome. Esquilino Esquilino Murals Murals byby Alice Alice Pasquini, Pasquini, Gio Gio Pistone, Nicola Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Alessandrini, Diamond. Diamond. Casa Casa dell’Architettura, dell'Architettura, Piazza Fanti 47. PiazzaMafredo Manfredo Fanti 47. Marconi Marconi The The M.A.G.R. M.A.G.R. (Museo (Museo Abusivo Abusivo Gestito Gestitodai daiRom), Rom),a aproject projectby byFrench French street artistSeth Seth is located in a street artist is located in a former former soap factory Via Antonio soap factory on Viaon Antonio AvogaAvogadro, opposite dro, opposite Ostiense'sOstiense’s landmark landmark Gasometro. details see Gasometro. For For details see www.999contemporary.com. www.999contemporary.com. Museodell’Altro dell’Altroe edell’Altrove dell’Altrovedidi Museo Metropoliz Metropoliz This former former meat meat factory factory inin the the This outskirts of of Rome art outskirts Rome isis now nowa astreet street museum being home hometoto art museumasaswell well as as being some200 200squatting squatters,migrants. many of The them some migrants. The Museo dell’Altrodi e Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove dell’Altroveor diMAAM, Metropoliz, or MAAM, Metropoliz, is only open only open Saturdays, and onis Saturdays, andon features the work the work of moreincluding than 300 offeatures more than 300 artists artists including Gio Edoardo Kobra,Edoardo Gio Kobra, Pistone, Pistone, Sten&Lex Diamond.and See Sten&Lex, Pablo and Echaurren MAAM Facebook page for details. Borondo. See MAAM Facebook page Via Prenestina 913. for details. Via Prenestina 913. Ostiense Ostiense Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Porto Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Fluviale. Porto Fluviale. Fish’n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via Fish’n’Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale. del Porto Fluviale. Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali. Magazzini Generali. Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense Via Ostiense. underpass, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense. Pigneto Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Pigneto Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71. Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.

48 | April 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Via Via Fanfulla Fanfulla da da Lodi. Lodi. 2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio. Fortebraccio. 2501 mural on Via Blu by Sten Blu Landscape Landscape by Sten & & Lex. Lex. Via Via Francesco Baracca. Francesco Baracca. Prati Prati Anna Magnaniportrait portrait by Diavù. Anna Magnani by Diavù. Nuovo Nuovo MercatoViaTrionfale, Via Mercato Trionfale, Andrea Doria. Andrea Doria. theSabotino. bear by Daniza the bear byDaniza ROA. Via ROA. Via Sabotino. Primavalle Primavalle The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via Cristoforo Numai. Cristoforo Numai. Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Theseus stabbing the Bembo. Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo. Quadraro Quadraro Tunnel murals by Mr THOMS and Gio Tunnel byMure. Mr THOMS and Pistone. murals Via Decio Gio Decio Mure. Via del NidoPistone. di Vespe Via by Lucamaleonte. Nido didel Vespe by Lucamaleonte. Via Monte Grano. del Monte Baby Hulkdel byGrano. Ron English. Via dei Baby PisoniHulk 89. by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89. Rebibbia Rebibbia Murals by Blu. Via Ciciliano and Via Murals by Blu. Via Palombini (Casal dèCiciliano Pazzi). and Via Palombini dè Pazzi). Welcome to(Casal Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Metro B station. Metro B station. S. Basilio S.SanBa Basilio features large-scale works on SanBa features large-scale works the façades of social-housing blockson in the of social-housing blocks the façades disadvantaged north-east suburb of in the disadvantaged north-east S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regenerasuburb of S.includes Basilio works near Rebibbia. tion project by Italian The project artistsregeneration Agostino Iacurci, Hitnesincludes and Blu works by Spain's ItalianLiqen. artistsViaAgostino alongside Maiolati, Iacurci, Hitnes and BluVia alongside Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Arcevia, Spain’s Via Treia.Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, Via Treia. S. Giovanni Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via S.Apulia Giovanni corner of Via Farsalo. Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.

It’s aa New NewDay Daybyby Alice Pasquini. It’s Alice Pasquini. Via Via Anton Ludovico. Anton Ludovico. S. Lorenzo Lorenzo S. AlicePasquini. Pasquini. ViaSabelli. dei Sabelli. Alice Via dei Feminicidemural mural Elisa Feminicide by Elisaby Caracciolo. Caracciolo. Via Dei Sardi.Via Dei Sardi. Borondo. Via Viadei deiVolsci Volsci159. 159. Borondo. Mural by by Agostino AgostinoIacurci Iacurci on Mural on the the Istituto Superiore di Lattanzio, Vittorio Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia. Via Aquilonia. Pietro S. Pietro UmaCabra Cabra Bordalo II. Stazione Uma byby Bordalo II. Stazione di S. Pietro, di Monte di S. Clivo Pietro, Clivo del di Gallo. Monte del Gallo. Testaccio Hunted Wolf by ROA. Via Galvani. Testaccio #KindComments AliceVia Pasquini, Via Hunted Wolf bybyROA. Galvani. Volta, Testaccio market. #KindComments by Alice Pasquini, Via Volta, Testaccio market. Tor Pignattara Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta. Tor Pignattara Etnik. Via Bartolomeo Perestrello 51. Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta. Coffee Etam Cru. Via Ludovico Etnik.Break ViabyBartolomeo Perestrello Pavoni. 51. Coﬀee Break by Etam Cru. Via Tom SawyerPavoni. by Jef Aerosol. Via Gabrio Ludovico Serbelloni. Tom Sawyer by Jef Aerosol. Via Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema Gabrio Serbelloni. Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Galeazzo Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Alessi. Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Herakut. Via Capua 14. Galeazzo Alessi. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Herakut. Via Capua 14. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Tor Marancia The Big City Life scheme features 14-m Tormurals Marancia tall by 22 Italian and internaThe Big City artists Life scheme features tional street including Mr 14-m tall by Jerico. 22 Italian and Klevra, Seth,murals Gaia and The idea international street was to transform theartists area's including blocks of Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia and Jerico. flats into an open-air art museum. Via TheMarancia. idea was to transform the area’s Tor www.bigcity.life.it. blocks of ﬂats into an open-air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. For full details see website, www.bigcity.life.it.

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth. Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

Wanted in Rome â&#x20AC;¢ April 2020 | 49

Wanted in Rome | December 2017

An Education for Life that will make the diďŹ&#x20AC;erence

Castelli International School

International Elementary and Middle School

www.castelli-international.it

orski

ag By Kate Z

TONNARELLI CACIO E PEPE

Cacio e Pepe is a classic Roman pasta tradition which, until recently, was somewhat unknown outside of Italy. However, the last couple of years have seen the international food scene embrace this simple dish which was born from humble necessity, giving it a more glamorous lease of life. The dish originated in the Lazio countryside where shepherds would pack food to carry with them on the long journeys to move their flocks. Alongside cured meat products they would also take chunks of the local aged sheep milk cheese (which did not need refrigeration), handmade flour and water pasta that could be eaten dried for carbohydrates, and black pepper to stimulate warmth. These three ingredients eventually involved into the pasta dish we know and love, and the origins underline once and for all that there is no place for butter or oil in the authentic recipe. Nowadays cacio e pepe is usually served with a long, square-cut, fresh egg pasta called tonnarelli which gives an added richness to the dish and speeds up cooking time, but normal dried spaghetti can also be used. As with most seemingly easy recipes, the trick is in the timing and testing the perfect ratio of ingredients. Sadly, overcooking and not enough mixing will often result in a sticky, unpleasant final dish rather than the silky, creamy cheese sauce with a punch of pepper which constitutes the perfect result. The recipe below utilises a little-known trick of heating the pepper in a pan of water to infuse the flavour before finishing the cooking of the pasta in the peppery liquid. Extra starchy cooking water and continuous mixing of the cheese should ensure the right consistency but, as any Roman will tell you, practice makes perfect.

Ingredients 250g fresh tonnarelli 70g pecorino romano, finely grated 190ml cold water 26 twists freshly ground black pepper

Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil. In a separate frying pan, heat 190ml of cold water and twist in the black pepper with a pepper mill. Cook on a medium heat until it just begins to simmer. Cook the tonnarelli in the saucepan of boiling water as per the packet instructions but drain one minute before the end of the suggested cooking time, keeping aside the starchy pasta water. Place the tonnarelli in the frying pan of peppery water and cook for the final minute, stirring well. Gradually add in 1-2 cups of the starchy pasta water as you go. When the pasta is al dente remove the pan from the heat and quickly add the pecorino, stirring immediately. Toss the pan for 30 seconds, building up the creamy sauce. If the mixture is too dry add a little more cooking water and just keep stirring. Serve immediately with an extra sprinkling of pecorino romano and another good crack of black pepper.

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Your Passport to Worldclass Healthcare Campus Bio-Medico University Hospital of Rome provides: • Coordination of Hospital, physician and diagnostic appointments • Free of charge translation services for all the procedures • 12 hours medical services, including air ambulance transfer coordination • Partnership with major International Insurance Companies • Elevated International Standard and sole General Hospital JCI Accredited in Rome Whether you are a patient, family member or friend feel free to contact us at: Hospitaly - International Patients Program Officer Via Álvaro del Portillo, 200 - Rome (Italy) mail: info@hospitaly.it - phone: 0039.06.22541.8852 WWW.HOSPITALY.IT

Associations American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com Daughters of the American Revolution Pax Romana Chapter NSDAR paxromana@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com

International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490, www.iwcofrome.it Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 3338466820 Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Woman’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com

Books The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified. Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 Anglo American Bookshop Via delle Vite 102, tel. 066795222 Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it

Religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881 Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish)

54 | April 2020 • Wanted in Rome

Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484 Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com Otherwise Via del Governo Vecchio, tel. 066879825, www.otherwisebookshop.com St Patrick’s English-Language Lending Library Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 0688818727, Sun 10.00-12.30, Tues 10.00-14.00, Wed 15.00-18.00, Thurs 11.00-15.30 Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 3332284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday Service 10.30

Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei SS. Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Roma Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic) Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00

Support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.com Archè (HIV+children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/06582045580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 3381675680

Transport • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157066645-064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it

St Isidore College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic), Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827, www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri” Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022

Chiamaroma 24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Emergency numbers • • • • • • •

Ambulance tel. 118 Carabinieri tel. 112 Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 Fire brigade tel. 115 Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 Police tel. 113 Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355 Wanted in Rome • April 2020 | 55

Wanted in Rome - April 2020

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