Wanted in Rome - March 2022

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THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME

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CONT

4. FROM EMPATHY TO ACTION

H.D. Wright

10. THE POPE WHO MET THE KING OF THE SCOTS Margaret StenhousE

14. URBAN SATIRE: ROME’S TALKING STATUES Andy Devane

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THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME

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ENTS 4

FROM EMPATHY TO ACTION

10

36

THE POPE WHO MET THE KING OF THE SCOTS

classical

32 EXHIBITIONS

Humanitarian

FROM EMPATHY TO ACTION ROME STUDENT REFLECTS ON HIS ARC AS AN ACTIVIST H.D. Wright Manhattan At 14, I had never met a refugee before. I could not even picture one. I had read numerous books and essays about the Syrian civil war and the myriad resettlement efforts spread across the Middle East; but the Syrian people had remained faceless to me, hidden beneath the weight of statistics and headlines endlessly siphoned across the borders of a restless and overstimulated world.

I knew that I would never be able to understand the conflict if I did not speak to the people it impacted, so, as the end of freshman year in school approached, I scoured the web for an

Refugees welcome, Berlin. Photo H.D. Wright.

4 | March 2022 • Wanted in Rome

opportunity to travel, and stumbled upon a trip, hosted by The New York Times, offering high school students the chance to travel across the cities of Germany with European economics correspondent Jack Ewing.

I knew that only a few years earlier, in 2015, Chancellor Angela Merkel had bravely forced open the gates of Germany to welcome over a million Syrian refugees to safety. I also knew that in response, the right wing pseudo-populist party Alternative für Deutschland (AfD) had used their arrival to stoke the flames of xenophobic nationalism, earning 92 seats in the Bundestag the previous fall. I wanted to uncover

the ingredients that had created such a corrosive concoction in German politics, so I applied. A few weeks later, I received an email notifying me that I would be flying to Berlin.

Berlin That first week, in bookstores and Biergartens along the banks of the Spree, the humanity that had been obscured was finally revealed. We met with refugees almost every day. Some were adults, others were only teenagers – but everyone had a story. I was amazed at how much they had weathered but astounded by how they had risen despite the weight of their circumstances.

In between these revelatory meetings, the other students and I wandered the winding streets of Berlin, Leipzig, Stuttgart and Munich, exploring the new neighbourhoods that had sprung up as a result of the resettlement effort. Vendors from Damascus sold food on empty street corners.

Artists from Homs propped their art up against the grey walls. Music and crowds spilled out of restaurants, and delicious aromas from Idlib and Aleppo wafted behind them. It was clear that areas that were once barren had been brought back to life, infused with a new cultural and economic energy. As a result, tourists flowed in from far and wide to participate in the wonders of this new cultural economy, further fuelling the engine of change, prosperity, and enrichment. To think that the builders of this new Eden had arrived empty handed, burdened down with the invisible weight of hatred; and they had built all of this.

Yet away from the colour and energy of these streets, between the cobblestones of Munich and beneath the plazas of Berlin, there slept an animosity, an anxiety that only dared to show its face behind the curtain of a voting booth, between the lines of an op-ed, and in the veiled gazes of angry pedestrians hurrying along the periphery. I could feel it in the air, but I couldn’t quite put my finger on what it was. I heard it in the whispers of those angry pedestrians; I saw it in their gazes, cast down at the sidewalk; but most of all I saw it in the physical separation between neighbourhoods, the invisible barriers erected between our world and theirs, dividing what was once one.

I wanted to understand the roots of this energy, comprehend why it continued to grow, as the subjects of its hatred helped the country flourish; so for my final project, I decided to probe deeper by interviewing Germans on the street.

I approached them outside the Museum of

H.D. Wright, St Stephen's School I.D.

Pergamon, between the columns of Brandenburg Gate, and on the steps of the Reichstag, and there I began to listen. Some welcomed the refugees with open arms, others ambivalently, most begrudgingly, but among the voices of support and slight resistance, a cohort of a much darker nature began to take shape. They would often glance behind them, and then lean in, aware of the public shunning of their hidden views, before speaking. Yet despite the worry, and the recognition of the unpopularity of their opinions, many came forward anyway. They told me that their culture was under attack, that their jobs were going to be stolen – that the very foundation of their identities was in danger.

Even though I had been given a personal look into the minds of those most impacted by the conflict, I felt there was still so much more to learn. I felt as if I had peered into an unimaginably deep crevasse and now I wanted to climb in. I promised myself that I would jump at the first opportunity that came my way. My sophomore year of high school, a chance to travel again finally came my way.

Rome It was a Monday morning in Rome, and nearly six months had passed since I’d left Berlin and begun my sophomore study abroad at St Stephen’s School. I had been in the Eternal City for only a few weeks when I heard that a local kitchen, staffed by Syrian refugees, was searching for volunteers. That very weekend, I took the train there, practicing Italian phrases in the corner of the train carriage. When I arrived, it became clear that my cursory level of Italian would not be enough to get by. I stacked supplies quietly in the corner, eager to find the keys to communication.

Wanted in Rome • March 2022 | 5

The perimeter of Za'atari. Photo H.D. Wright.

When I returned to school that evening, I signed up for two Italian classes, and petitioned for an independent study in Arabic. The weeks passed quickly, and soon the hours of quiet stacking were replaced with minutes of shy chatter. Then the minutes became hours, and the hours filled with stories. I learned that even though my new friends were thankful to be in Rome, their worries often brought them back to Syria, for many of their family members were stuck on a strip of sand on the Jordan-Syria border.

myself under my breath, a figure sat down across from me. I looked up from my tray, expecting to see a friend, but to my surprise, it was Jordan.

For the next few months, as I finished my sophomore year of high school in Rome, and studied in New Haven and London over the summer, Jordan and I stayed in touch. After months of correspondence and planning, it was confirmed: we were going to Za’atari, the largest Syrian refugee camp in the world.

A few weeks later I learned that Jordan Hattar, a Syrian refugee activist, was visiting my school to speak about his experience working in Za’atari refugee camp, the very strip of sand my new friends had described. With each word, Jordan painted a picture of the camp and its inhabitants: the metal housing units stuck in the sand, the families waiting patiently inside them, and the tall gates and the barbed wire enclosing it all. As Jordan’s presentation came to a close, I wanted to ask him if he would take me there, but as the school filed out into the halls, he was lost among the crowd.

As our car edged closer, I glimpsed the outlines of the camp, a sea of white metal boxes spreading across the desert. Figures behind the walls of the camp came into focus, many of them children. And then we saw the camp’s military guards, Jordanian soldiers dressed in combat fatigues, holding machine guns. After presenting our paperwork to the guards at the gates, we were ushered past the barbed wire and into the confines of the maze.

I trudged to the cafeteria and sat down at an empty table, sorely wondering if I’d missed my only opportunity to speak to him. As I cursed 6 | March 2022 • Wanted in Rome

Za’atari

I stepped out of the car into a makeshift parking lot, noticing only four other cars, all owned by other NGOs. Only the click of my camera’s shutter broke the silence, along against the wind.” In a world of constant ‘breaking news,’ the stories of these refugees were being forgotten.

Humanitarian The wire and the desert had forced the refugees into a state of isolated imprisonment, trapped between a painful past and an uncertain future, discouraged from following the road into Jordan, yet unable to retrace their steps back home.

Over the next few hours, I interviewed and photographed scores of families. Fathers told me how much they wanted to go back to work.

Mothers told me how much they wished their children could go to school. And the children, approaching me with wide-eyes and smiles, asked for fist bumps and pictures, unaware of all that they had already lost. One theme traced a thread from family to family: the fervent wish to integrate into a new society and resume the rhythm of living.

After hours of hushed conversations, a soldier informed us that it was time to leave. We got back in the van and drove out through the gates, leaving this forgotten world behind in an unresolved cloud of dust. On the plane home, as we passed Cairo and glided over Rome, I thought about how far I had come, and how much farther I still had to go. I had dived into the crevasse, and learned that it wasn’t as terrifying as the news had led me to believe. How could I use the stories I had been told to make a difference? I wondered.

As 2021 came to a close, I found the answer thanks to my work with Kailash Satyarthi’s 100 Million campaign whose goal is to mobilise 100 million young people to push for a better future for 100 million marginalised children who have been denied their rights and liberty. As a result of my involvement with 100 Million, I was invited to join the youth constituency of Education Cannot Wait, Through the fence at Za'atari. Photo by H.D. Wright.

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H.D. Wright interviews a doctor at the Syrian American Medical Society in Za'atari. Photo by Amelie Davidkhanian Wright.

the UN’s new fund for education in emergency situations including war, climate disaster or any upheaval that threatens children’s learning. I stood for election to represent the group, and I won.

Since then, I have reflected on the trajectory of my journey, and recognised the immense importance of listening to learn. I followed the words gifted to me in Berlin all the way to Rome; and as I carry out my duties at ECW, I will continue to do just that.

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History

THE POPE WHO MET THE KING OF THE SCOTS HOW THE FUTURE PIUS II UNDERTOOK A SECRET MISSION TO SCOTTISH KING JAMES I Margaret Stenhouse

P

ius II is one of the most original popes of the early Renaissance... an adventurous traveller, an acute observer, a womaniser, a town planner and the author of a best-selling novel of unrequited love. While still a layman, he was sent on a dangerous mission to the northern reaches of Europe.

A land “rude, uncultivated and unvisited by the winter sun.” So wrote Aeneas Silvius Bartolomeus Piccolomini, the future Pope Pius II, describing his visit to the kingdom of Scotland in Commentaries, his 13-book-long biography, which he wrote in the third person to conceal his identity. Aeneas was 30 years old, an ambitious and up-and-coming player in the diplomatic field. He had been sent as an envoy on behalf of the Holy Roman Emperor Frederick III, on a secret mission to the court of the Scottish king James I.* His journey to the remote and dismal north in 1435 could hardly have got off to a worse start.

It was the winter solstice and he had endured a terrifying passage from the Flemish port of Sluys to the Scottish town of Dunbar, with days and nights of relentless gales battering his ship.

Aeneas had feared for his life and he had sworn to walk barefoot to offer thanks at the celebrated shrine of Our Lady at Whitekirk if he was delivered safely to his destination. The shrine was over 12 kilometres away from his landing place and by the time he arrived, his feet were so frozen that his servants had to carry him back on a litter.

Pope Pius II, born Aeneas Silvius Bartolomeus Piccolomini.

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When he had recovered from his ordeal he requested an audience with James I, who appears

History to have received him favourably: “When he was at last admitted to the King’s presence, he obtained all he had come to ask”. His mission had been top secret and he kept it so. Historians speculate that he was charged with the task of persuading the Scottish king to enter into war against England in order to support the French, who were locked in conflict with the English over territorial disputes.

The historic encounter has been immortalised by Pinturicchio in the Piccolomini Library attached to the Duomo of Siena. Pintoricchio obviously had a free hand and used his imagination. Although the king at that date was only in his early 40s, he is depicted as an elderly sage with a long white beard, seated in majesty on a high throne.

An open window at his back shows a serene panorama with a river, a lake, trees and a castle that looks more Austrian than Scottish. And, of course, the sky is blue and it isn’t raining. The emperor’s envoy, Aeneas Piccolomini, is shown standing at the foot of the dais.

Aeneas does not seem to have been successful.

James did not want yet another war against his historic enemy. He had virtually grown up in the English court, after he was captured as a boy of 11 while he on his way to France and subsequently held hostage for 18 years until his impoverished subjects could raise the ransom money to free him. In England he had been well treated and had acquired an English wife – Joan Beaufort, the English king’s cousin. He returned to his kingdom to reclaim his throne in 1424.

According to a contemporary admirer, Walter Bower, the Abbot of Incholm, James was “strong limbed and unbelievably active.....”. Bower described the king as a keen sportsman who could “wrestle any of his nobles of any size”.

He also apparently excelled in throwing the hammer, archery and jousting. Bower waxed lyrical over the king’s polyvalent musical talents, at playing the organ, the flute, the drums and the lyre: “not just as an enthusiastic amateur but as a master”.

When Aeneas met him, however, the king was 10 years older and not such a romantic figure. In the Commentaries, James is described as “stocky and weighed down with fat”. He had, however, “clear and piercing eyes”.

James I of Scotland ruled from 1406 to 1437.

Aeneas gives the impression that the king and he did not quite hit it off but, in fact, James seems to have treated him well. His account that: “He was reimbursed for his travelling expenses and was given fifty nobles for the return journey and two horses called trotters” indicates that the cashstrapped monarch held him in high regard.

In common, the two men had a love of poetry.

While in captivity in the English court James had written a long love poem called The Kingis Quaire, perhaps to win over the Lady Joan, whom he could observe strolling in the garden under his prison window. Aeneas, on the other hand, had held the prestigious post of Imperial Poet to the Holy Roman Emperor.

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History Aeneas had a lively mind and was a keen observer. He wrote: “It is said there are two Scotlands, one cultivated, the other wooded with no open land. The Scots who live in the latter part speak a different language and sometimes use the bark of trees for food”.... “It is a cold country where few things will grow..... Below the ground is found a sulphurous rock which the Scots dig up for fuel.”.... “The cities have no walls; the houses are usually constructed without mortar: their roofs are covered with turf.”

“The common people, who are poor and rude, stuff themselves with meat and fish, but eat bread as a luxury.” He regretted that “they have no wine except what they import” but, on the plus side: “the oysters are larger than those in England and many pearls are found in them” and “There are no wolves in Scotland.”

Regarding the inhabitants, he noted: “There is nothing the Scotch like better to hear than

The Piccolomoni Library in the Duomo di Siena.

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abuse of the English”....“The men are short and brave; the women fair, charming, and easily won.

Women here think less of a kiss than in Italy of a touch of the hand.” This latter trait he found particularly attractive. Aeneas had so far shrunk from taking Holy Orders, as would have been the natural upward step for an aristocrat from an impoverished family like himself, because he did not wish to commit himself to becoming celibate.

In fact, he admitted that he had fathered various children in his travels round the European countries, Scotland included.

Only two years after Aeneas’ encounter with the King of Scots, James was assassinated by a group of rival barons who did not approve of reforms he was trying to introduce into Scotland, following models he had observed at the English court.

Aeneas instead went on to have a brilliant career.

He finally took the plunge and was ordained in

History 1447, going on to make a rapid ascent up the church career ladder. He ended up as pope, just two years after he had been made a cardinal, by unanimous vote at the second ballot in the 1458 conclave.

Becoming Pope Pius II meant a drastic change in habits and attitudes for the new pontiff, especially with regard to women. A man who had written, shortly before his 40th birthday, an erotic best seller entitled: The Tale of Two Lovers, (original title “Historia de duobus amantibus”), albeit under a false name, would obviously not have been considered a suitable candidate for the Throne of St Peter.

Set in Siena, Aeneas’ novel recounts a forbidden love story between Lucretia, a married noblewomen, and Euryalus the Frank, a knight in the emperor’s train, and the tale is embellished with purple prose like: her “coral lips made to be bitten”, “Oh lovely bosom, most glorious breasts!

Can it be that I touch you, possess you, hold you in my hands? Smooth limbs, sweet-scented body, are you really mine?” and “Lucretia... burnt by a secret flame completely forgets that she is a wife.

She hates her husband, and cherishes love’s wound, keeping Euryalus face stamped on her heart, nor gives her body any rest.”

As pope, however, he made a total turnaround in his attitude to women, adopting the typical prejudices of churchmen from the Middle Ages onwards: “Woman is an imperfect creature.... without faith, without fear, without constancy, without piety!” and “When you see a woman, think that you see a devil.”

Despite his alleged poor opinion of the female sex, he canonised St Catherine of Siena, the 14thcentury mystic who persuaded Pope Gregory XI to move back to Rome from Avignon, and he had a great admiration for Joan of Arc, “that astonishing and marvellous maid”, dedicating several pages of his memoirs to her exploits. She was put to death in 1431, just four years before his trip to Scotland.

During his six-year papacy, he concentrated much energy on attempting to organise another crusade against the Turks, who had captured Constantinople. Among the rulers he tried to involve was Vlad III Dracula of Romania (yes, the same notorious Dracula the Impaler who has

Meeting between James and Aeneas in the Pinturicchio frescoes of the Piccolomini Library.

lived on in legend). He also took an interest in antiquities and issued a papal bull prohibiting damage to ancient Roman ruins. His most lasting heritage, however, has been the creation of his “Ideal City”, a masterpiece of city planning, on the site of Corsignano, his home village, which he re-named Pienza, or “City of Pius”.

Note: Commentaries was first published in 1584, many years after Aeneas’ death, by Cardinal Francesco Bandini Piccolomini, a relative, who cut out all the passages he thought might damage the pope’s reputation. Therefore, most available copies are in the abridged version. A rare unabridged copy is in the Rare Books Collection of the National Library of Scotland, Edinburgh. *James I of Scotland (1394-1437), not to be confused with the Stuart King, James I of England (1566-1625).

Pope Pius II (1405-1464) was pope from 1458-1464.

Curiosity

URBAN SATIRE: ROME’S TALKING STATUES THE STORY OF ROME’S CONGREGATION OF WITS AND PASQUINADES Andy Devane

T

he tradition of Rome’s talking statues dates back to the early 16th century when the city’s residents vented their discontent against the oppressive power of the papacy with anonymous epigrams and satirical verses poking fun at religious and civil authorities. These irreverent notes, affixed to statues at night to avoid the authors getting caught, were read with hilarity by passersby the next morning before being removed.

irreverent custom. Roman poets and thinkers soon began to use Pasquino to publish their own caustic verses which were hugely popular and led to the term “pasquinade”.

Stendhal noted on his visit to Rome in 1816: “what the people of Rome desire above all else is a chance to show their strong contempt for the powers that control their destiny, and to laugh at their expense.”

The best known of Rome’s talking statues is Pasquino, near Piazza Navona, which remains in use to this day and is regularly plastered with political messages and even small advertisements.

However there are five other statue parlanti among the so-called “Congregation of Wits”.

Pasquino Located in the piazza of the same name since 1501, this damaged statue is part of a marble group representing Menaleus with the body of Patroclus, a copy of a Hellenistic work. The statue fragment dates to the third century BC and probably came from the Stadium of Domitian in what is today Piazza Navona. The tradition of using the statue as a noticeboard dates back to 1508 when church officials draped it in a toga and covered it with Latin epigrams to mark the feast of S. Marco on 25 April.

The statue’s name can be traced to a local tailor called Pasquino who is credited with starting the 14 | March 2022 • Wanted in Rome

Pasquino, still in use, can be found near Piazza Navona.

Photo credit: NoyanYalcin / Shutterstock.com.

Curiosity

Marforio. Photo credit: Paolo Gallo / Shutterstock.com.

The popes of the day were irritated at being the frequent butt of criticism, with Adrian VI (who reigned from 1522-23) allegedly being talked out of his plan to have the statue thrown into the river Tiber, while Pope Benedict XIII took a harder line in 1728 by issuing an edict condemning to death anyone caught posting pasquinades.

Eventually Pasquino was put under surveillance at night to stop the practice, prompting Romans to seek other statues on which to express their frustration and sarcasm.

Madama Lucrezia Rome’s only female talking statue, Madama Lucrezia is a large Roman bust, probably representing a priestess of Isis or maybe even the goddess herself. The three-metre high statue sits on a plinth in a corner of Piazza S. Marco, just off the central Piazza Venezia. With its worn-away face,

Marforio This colossal statue dating from the first century AD can be found today in the courtyard of Palazzo Nuovo in the Capitoline Museums. Representing a male divinity or river god – Identified variously as Neptune, Jupiter or the Tiber – the bearded Marforio was originally sited near the Arch of Septimius Severus in the Roman Forum. Its name may derive from “Mare in Foro” or from the Marfuoli family which owned land in the area around the statue’s original location. In 1588 Pope Sixtus V had it moved to Piazza S. Marco and then to its current site in Piazza del Campidoglio in 1592. Marforio was known to engage in back-and-forth mocking debates with Pasquino.

Madama Lucrezia. Photo: marcovarro / Shutterstock.com.

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Curiosity the statue’s popular nickname may have been a reference to the 15th-century noblewoman Lucrezia D’Alagno, the mistress of Alfonso d’Aragona, King of Naples. She moved to Rome after the king’s death in 1458 and lived in the present-day Palazzo Venezia outside which the statue is located today.

Abbot Luigi This headless statue of a man in a toga dates from the late imperial era and can be found in Piazza Vidoni, next to the church of S. Andrea della Valle. The statue probably represents a magistrate or an orator and was named popularly after the sacristan of the nearby church of SS. Sudario.

Discovered during excavations near the Theatre of Pompey, the statue was moved to various locations around Rome and has been at its current site since 1924. An inscription on its pedestal reads: “Along with Marforio and Pasquino, I conquer eternal fame for urban satire.”

Abate Luigi. Photo credit: Google Arts & Culture.

Il Facchino This statue of man wearing a cap and carrying an “acquarolo” barrel of water was created in around 1580, to a design by Jacopo del Conte. At the time water-sellers resold water from the river Tiber or the Trevi Fountain. The facchino or porter was originally sited on Via del Corso, on the main facade of the Palazzo De Carolis Simonetti, but in 1874 it was moved to its current position on Via Lata, to the side of the same building, now the Banco di Roma. With its flat beret hat, the statue’s face is badly damaged due to vandalism as it was once thought to be a caricature of Martin Luther, the German theologian who rebelled against the Catholic church and initiated the Protestant Reformation in 1517.

Babuino Located beside the Chiesa di S. Atanasio dei Greci, the statue depicts a reclining Silenus, the halfman, half-goat from ancient Greek mythology.

The monument was built in the late 16th century for the wealthy merchant Patrizio Grandi who, according to the then custom, obtained free water for personal use in exchange for donating the fountain to the city. Romans considered the representation of Silenus ugly, resembling more a baboon, or “babbuino”, than a satyr. The name stuck and the street – originally named Via Clementina in honour of Pope Clement VII Medici (1523-1534) – became known as Via del Babuino.

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Il Facchino.

Babuino. Photo credit: NoyanYalcin / Shutterstock.com.

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LAGO DI ALBANO This volcanic crater lake presents visitors with beautiful views of its clear water and surrounding forests. The picturesque towns along the shores serve as popular summer resort areas for Romans, including Castel Gandolfo, home to the summer papal palace whose gardens were recently opened to the public. On the other side of the lake is Palazzolo, a villa bought by Rome’s Venerable English College in 1920 and now open to guests. The towns surrounding the lake are known for their restaurants, shops and fruit farms. Swimming, fishing and boating are among the favourite activities for visitors, and the lake’s beach is located on the western shore. A simple 45-minute train ride from Termini, visitors can reach Lago Albano by taking the FL4 train towards Albano Laziale and getting off at the Castel Gandolfo stop.

around rome LAGO DI NEMI Lago di Nemi is a small and unique volcanic lake where divers in the 19th century discovered two large ships built for the notorious Roman emperor Caligula at the bottom of the lake, filled withbottom of the lake, filled with artworks and treasures.

Replicas of the ships along with other artefacts are on display at the nearby Museum of Roman Ships.

Travellers can also visit the natural caves around the lake, which were a favourite haunt of 19th-century foreign artists such as Turner. Nemi is associated with the cult of the Roman goddess Diana, and, for the last 80 years, an annual strawberry festival.

Visitors can reach the lake by taking the SS7 Appia southbound as far as Genzano, and then following signs for Nemi.

LAGO DI VICO Formed by the volcanic activity of Mount Venus, Lago di Vico offers a unique geological backdrop set amid lush woodland and hills. The surrounding nature reserve is a haven for wildlife, but what is most characteristic of the area are the hazel and chestnut plantations. Lakeside campsites and hotels offer swimming, sailing and horse riding. The two towns worth a visit are Ronciglione and Caprarola with its magnificent and recently restored Villa Farnese. Lago di Vico is a 90-minute drive from Rome taking the SS2 Cassia, and turning north at Sutri.

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LAGO DI BOLSENA Located on the site of the Vulsini volcano, dormant since about 100 BC, this crater lake has two islands and is surrounded by rolling hills and vegetation. The area around Montefisascone on the southeast shore of the lake is famous for its Est! Est!! Est!!! wine. The town of Bolsena in the northeast is a popular tourist resort in summer and it is here that the famous so-called Eucharistic Miracle took place in 1263 when a Bohemian priest is said to have seen blood coming from the host that he had just consecrated at Mass. Capodimonte on the southwest of the lake is also worth a visit. The lakeside area provides activities for sports and nature enthusiasts all year round. The best way to reach Lago di Bolsena from Rome is by car, as buses to Bolsena from Termini Station are infrequent.

LAGO DI BRACCIANO Just north-west of Rome along the Via Cassia, Lake Bracciano is one of the most easily accessible lakes for Romans. The ban on motor boats (except for a little ferry) means it remains an ideal spot for swimming, sailing and canoeing. The Lega Navale operates a dinghy sailing school in Anguillara.

Churches and historic sites are located in the three small towns around the lake: Bracciano, Trevignano and Anguillara. There are also places for camping and horse riding tours by the lake, which is just an hour on the Viterbo train line from Rome’s Ostiense station. The lake is overlooked by the 15th-century Orsini-Odescalchi castle in Bracciano, often chosen as the venue for jet-set weddings, and there is also an air force museum at nearby Vigna di Valle.

LAGO DI MARTIGNANO This tiny volcanic lake just to the east of Lake Bracciano offers clean water and beaches with scenic views of the surrounding meadows and wildlife. Lago di Martignano is known for its outdoor activities such as horse riding, hiking, mountain biking and swimming. Umbrellas, loungers and luggage storage are available to rent along with canoes, sailboats and windsurfing equipment. It is also known for the hot sulphurous springs surrounding the lake. Arriving at Lago di Martignano by car is the easiest option. Reaching the lake by public transport involves taking the FM3 train to Cesano and opting for either a local bus or taxi.

Wanted in Rome • March 2022 | 19

ARTandSEEK Please note that there may be some English-language cultural workshops visitsof to variation to opening times atand some museums and exhibitions for children in Rome.

For these activities due to covid restrictions. It event details tel. 3315524440, email artandseekforis advisable to check websites for visiting kids@gmail.com, or see website, www.artandsedetails and make reservation before going. ekforkids.com.

Bioparco Rome's Bioparco has over 1,000 animals and offers special activities for children and their families at weekends and during the summer. When little legs get tired, take a ride around the zoo on an electric train. Open daily. Viale del Giardino Zoologico 20 (Villa Borghese), tel. 063608211, www.bioparco.it.

Bowling Silvestri This sports club has an 18-hole mini golf course, with good facilities for children aged 4 and over, adults and disabled children.

20 | March 2022 • Wanted in Rome

There are also tennis courts, a table tennis room and a pizzeria. Via G. Zoega 6 (Monteverde/Bravetta), tel. 0666158206, www.bowlingsilvestri.com.

Casa del Parco Eco-friendly workshops, in Italian, in which kids can learn about nature and how to care for the environment. Located in the Valle dei Casali nature park. Via del Casaletto 400, tel. 3475540409, www.valledeicasali.com.

Casina di Raffaello Play centre in Villa Borghese offering a programme of animated lectures, creative workshops, cultural projects and educational activities for children from the age of three. Tues-Fri 14.30, Sat-Sun 11.00 and 17.00. Viale della Casina di Raffaello (Porta Pinciana), tel. 060608, www.casinadiraffaello.it.

Cinecittà World This 25-hectare theme park dedicated to the magic of cinema features high-tech attractions, real and virtual roller coasters, aquatic shows such as Super Splash, giant elephant rides and attractions with cinematic special effects. Located about 10 km from EUR, south of Rome. Via di Castel Romano, S.S. 148 Pontina, www.cinecittaworld.it.

Climbing Associazione Sportiva Climbing Side. Basic and competitive climbing courses for 6-18 year olds.

Tues, Thurs. Via Cristoforo Colombo 1800 (Torrino/Mostacciano), tel. 3356525473.

Explora The 2,000-sqm Children’s Museum organises creative workshops for small children in addition to holding regular animated lectures, games and meetings with authors of children’s books. Via Flaminia 80/86, tel. 063613776, www.mdbr.it.

Go-karting Club Kartroma is a circuit with go-karts for children over 9 and two-seater karts for an adult and a child under 8. Closed Mon. For details see website. Via della Muratella (Ponte Galeria), tel.

0665004962, www.kartroma.it.

Gymboree This children's centre caters to little people aged from 0-5 years, offering Play and Learn activities, music, art, baby play, school skills and even English theatre arts. Gymboree @ Chiostro del Bramante (Piazza Navona), Via Arco della Pace 5, www.gymbo.it.

Hortis Urbis Association providing hands-on horticultural workshops for children, usually in Italian but sometimes in English, in the Appia Antica park. Weekend activities include sowing seeds, cultivating plants and harvesting vegetables. Junior gardeners must be accompanied by a parent or guardian. Via Appia Antica 42/50, www.hortusurbis.it.

Il Nido Based in Testaccio, this association supports expectant mothers, parents, babies and small children. It holds regular educational and social events, many of them in English. Via Marmorata 169 (Testaccio), tel. 0657300707, www.associazioneilnido.it.

Luneur Located in the southern EUR suburb, Luneur is Italy’s oldest amusement park. Highlights include ferris wheel, roller coaster, carousel horses, bamboo tunnel, maze, giant swing and a Wizard of Oz-style farm. Aimed at children aged up to 12. Entry fee €2.50, payable in person or online. Via delle Tre Fontane 100, www.luneurpark.it.

Rainbow Magicland The 38 attractions at Rome's biggest theme park are divided into three categories: brave, everyone, and kids. Highlights include down-hill rafting, a water roller coaster through Mayan-style pyramids, and the Shock launch coaster. Located in Valmonte, south-east of the capital. Via della Pace, 00038 Valmontone, www.rainbowmagicland.it.

Time Elevator A virtual reality, multi-sensorial 5-D cinema experience with a motion-base platform, bringing the history of Rome to life in an accessible and fun way. The time-machine's commentary is available in six languages including English. Daily 11.00-19.30. €12 adults, €9 kids. Via dei SS. Apostoli 20, tel. 0669921823, www.time-elevator.it.

Zoomarine This amusement and aquatic park outside Rome offers performances with dolphins, parrots and other animals for children of all ages. It is also possible to rent little play carts. Children under 10 must be accompanied by an adult. Via Casablanca 61, Torvaianica, Pomezia, tel. 0691534, www.zoomarine.it.

Wanted in Rome • March 2022 | 21

Rome’s artart capital continues to to grow with newnew murals by important Italian and Rome'sreputation reputationasasananimportant importantstreet street capital continues grow with murals by important Italian international streetstreet artistsartists appearing all the all time. the works located the suburbs, often far often from the and international appearing theMost time.ofMost of theare works are in located in the suburbs, far centre.

Here is where to is find Rome’s mainthe street artstreet projects murals. from the centre.

Here where to find main artand projects and murals around Rome.

Esquilino Esquilino Murals Murals byby Alice Alice Pasquini, Pasquini, Gio Gio Pistone, Nicola Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Alessandrini, Diamond. Casa Casa dell’Architettura, dell'Architettura, Diamond.

PiazzaMafredo Manfredo Fanti 47.

Piazza Fanti 47.

Marconi Marconi The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo Gestito dai Rom), a project by French Gestito dai Rom), a project by French street artistSeth Seth is located in a street artist is located in a former former soap factory Via Antonio soap factory on Viaon Antonio AvogaAvogadro, opposite dro, opposite Ostiense'sOstiense’s landmark Gasometro.

For For details see landmark Gasometro. details see www.999contemporary.com. www.999contemporary.com.

Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz Metropoliz This This former former meat meat factory factory inin the the outskirts of Rome is nowa astreet street outskirts of Rome is now art art museumasaswell well as as being museum being home hometoto some200 200squatting squatters,migrants. many of The them some migrants.

The Museo dell’Altrodi e Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove dell’Altroveor diMAAM, Metropoliz, or MAAM, Metropoliz, is only open is only open on Saturdays, and on Saturdays, and features the work features the work of more than 300 of more than 300 artists including artists including Edoardo Kobra, Gio Edoardo Kobra, and GioDiamond.

Pistone, Pistone, Sten&Lex See Sten&Lex, Pablo Echaurren and MAAM Facebook page for details.

Borondo.

See MAAM Via Prenestina 913. Facebook page for details. Via Prenestina 913.

Ostiense Ostiense Fronte Del by by Blu.Blu. Via Via del Porto Fronte Del Porto Porto del Fluviale.

Porto Fluviale.

Fish’n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via Fish’n’Kids

by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale. del Porto Fluviale.

Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Wall of Fame

by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali.

Magazzini Shelley by Generali.

Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Via Ostiense.

Shelley by Ozmo.

Ostiense Palazzo occupato

by Blu, Via Ostiense. underpass, Via Ostiense.

Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Pigneto Ostiense.

Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Pigneto Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.

Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.

22 | March 2022 • Wanted in Rome

Via Via Fanfulla Fanfulla da da Lodi.

Lodi.

2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio.

Fortebraccio.

2501 mural on Via Blu Blu Landscape Landscape by Sten Sten & & Lex. Lex. Via Via Francesco Baracca.

Francesco Baracca.

Prati Prati Anna Magnani portrait by Diavù.

Anna Magnani portrait by Diavù. Nuovo Nuovo Mercato Trionfale, Via Mercato Trionfale, Via Andrea Doria.

Andrea Doria. theSabotino. bear by Daniza the bear byDaniza ROA. Via ROA. Via Sabotino.

Primavalle Primavalle The Roadkill Roadkill by Fintan Magee.

Magee. Via Via The

by Fintan Cristoforo Numai.

Cristoforo Numai.

Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo.

Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo.

Quadraro Quadraro Tunnel murals andand Gio Tunnel muralsby byMr MrTHOMS THOMS Pistone.

Via Decio Mure.Mure.

Gio Pistone.

Via Decio Nido di di Vespe ViaVia del Nido VespebybyLucamaleonte.

Lucamaleonte.

Monte del Grano. del Monte del Grano.

Baby Hulk by Ron English. Via dei Baby PisoniHulk 89. by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89.

Rebibbia Rebibbia Murals by byBlu. Blu.Via ViaCiciliano Ciciliano and and Via Via Murals Palombini (Casal Palombini (Casaldè dèPazzi).

Pazzi).

Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare.

Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare.

Metro B station.

Metro B station.

S.S. Basilio Basilio SanBa SanBa features features large-scale large-scale works on on the façades façades of in the of social-housing social-housingblocks blocks the disadvantaged north-east suburb of in the disadvantaged north-east S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regenerasuburb of S. Basilio near Rebibbia. tion project includes works by Italian The project artistsregeneration Agostino Iacurci, Hitnesincludes and Blu works by Italian artists alongside Spain's Liqen. ViaAgostino Maiolati, Iacurci, Hitnes and BluVia alongside Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Arcevia, Via Treia.Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Spain’s Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, S. Giovanni Via Treia.

Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via S. Giovanni Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.

Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.

It’s aa New NewDay Daybyby Alice Pasquini.

It’s Alice Pasquini.

Via Via Anton Ludovico.

Anton Ludovico.

S. Lorenzo S. Lorenzo Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli.

Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli.

Feminicide mural by Elisa Feminicide mural by Elisa Caracciolo.

Caracciolo. Via Dei Sardi.

Via Dei Sardi.

Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159.

Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159.

Mural by

by Agostino AgostinoIacurci Iacurci on Mural on the the Istituto Superiore di Lattanzio, Vittorio Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Via Aquilonia.

Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia.

S. Pietro S. Pietro Uma Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione Uma Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione di S. di S. Pietro, Clivo di Monte del Pietro, Clivo di Monte del Gallo.

Gallo.

Testaccio Testaccio Hunted byby ROA. ViaVia Galvani.

HuntedWolf Wolf ROA. Galvani. #KindComments by by Alice Pasquini, Via #KindComments Alice Pasquini, Volta, Testaccio market.

Via Volta, Testaccio market.

Tor Pignattara Tor Pignattara Dulk. Via ViaAntonio AntonioTempesta.

Tempesta.

Dulk.

Etnik.Via ViaBartolomeo Bartolomeo Perestrello Etnik.

Perestrello 51.

51. Coffee Break Etam Cru. Via Coffee Break by Etamby Cru. Via Ludovico Pavoni.

Ludovico Pavoni.

Tom

by Jef Via Gabrio TomSawyer Sawyer

by Aerosol.

Jef Aerosol.

Via Serbelloni.

Gabrio Serbelloni.

Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema PasoliniVia

by Acqua Diavù.Bullicante.

Former Cinema Impero, Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante.

Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Galeazzo Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Alessi.

Herakut.

Capua 14.

GaleazzoVia Alessi.

Agostino Iacurci.

Via Muzio Herakut. Via Capua 14. Oddi 6.

Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6.

Tor Marancia Tor Big Marancia The City Life scheme features 14-m The Big City Life scheme tall murals by 22 Italian and features interna14-m tall murals by 22 Italian and tional street artists including Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia andartists Jerico.including The idea international street was to transform area's of Mr Klevra, Seth,the Gaia andblocks Jerico. flats into an open-air art museum. Via The idea was to transform the area’s Tor Marancia. www.bigcity.life.it. blocks of flats into an open-air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. For full details see website, www.bigcity.life.it.

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

Wanted in Rome • March 2022 | 23

ROME'S MAJOR

MUSEUMS PLEASE NOTE THAT NOT ALL OF THESE MUSEUMS ARE CURRENTLY OPEN, DUE TO THE COVID-19 CRISIS. IT IS ADVISABLE TO CHECK WEBSITES BEFORE VISITING AS SOME MUSEUMS MAY REQUIRE ADVANCE BOOKING.

VATICAN MUSEUMS

Crypta Balbi

Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va.

Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00.

Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday.

Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums

Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

STATE MUSEUMS Baths of Diocletian

Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Borghese Museum

Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio.

09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30.

Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

24 | March 2022 • Wanted in Rome

Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.

Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's modern art collection. Mon closed.

MAXXI

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it.

National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid.

Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection.

09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS Casa di Goethe

CITY MUSEUMS

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it.

Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Centrale Montemartini

Chiostro Del Bramante

Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant.

09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists.

Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035 www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Capitoline Museums

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Galleria Colonna

Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun. Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it.

The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.

MACRO

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space. 10.30-19.00.

Mon closed.

Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.

MATTATOIO

Giorgio de Chirico House Museum

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org.

Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00.

Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00.

Guided tours in English, advance booking.

Keats-Shelley House

Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron.

Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00.

Guided tours on prior booking.

Museo storico della Liberazione

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it.

Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from 1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.

Museo Canonica

Palazzo Merulana

Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959.

09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).

Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it.

Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection, including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation.

09.00-20.00. Tues closed.

Museo Napoleonico

Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Guided tours in Italian and English.

Wanted in Rome • March 2022 | 25

ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY

ART GALLERIES

1/9 Unosunove

1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.

A.A.M. Architettura

Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ff-maam.it.

Contemporary Cluster

Visual art, design, architecture, fashion design and beauty apothecary in a 17th-century palace. Via dei Barbieri 7, tel.

0668805928, www.contemporarycluster.com.

C.R.E.T.A.

Cultural association promoting ceramics and the visual, humanistic, musical and culinary arts through workshops, exhibitions and artist residencies. Palazzo Delfini, Via dei Delfini 17, tel. 0689827701, www.cretarome.com.

Dorothy Circus Gallery

Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.

Ex Elettrofonica

This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.

Fondazione Memmo

Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel.

0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.

Fondazione Pastificio Cerere

This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel.

0645422960, www.pastificiocerere.com.

Fondazione Volume!

The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.

26 | March 2022 • Wanted in Rome

Franz Paludetto

Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.

Frutta

This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via dei Salumi 53 tel.

0645508934, www.fruttagallery.com.

Gagosian Gallery

The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

GALLA

Exhibition space designed to showcase original, unconventional art works at affordable prices by artists working in various fields. Via degli Zingari 28, tel. 3476552515, www.facebook.com/GALLAmonti.

Galleria Alessandro Bonomo

Gallery showing the works of important Italian and international visual artists. Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858, www.bonomogallery.com.

Galleria Valentina Bonomo

Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works specifically for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte

Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists.

Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel.

0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Galleria della Tartaruga

Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel.

066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.

Galleria Il Segno

Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.

MAXXI amazes you, always art

architecture design photography cinema

28 | March 2022 • Wanted in Rome

Galleria Mucciaccia

Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.

Galleria Russo

Operativa Arte Contemporanea

A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.

Pian de Giullari

This historic gallery holds group and solo exhibitions showcasing the work of major 20th-century Italian painters alongside promising new Italian artists. Via Alibert 20, tel.

066789949, www.galleriarusso.it.

Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions.

Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.

Galleria Varsi

Plus Arte Puls

A dynamic gallery near Campo de’ Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di Grotta Pinta 38, tel. 066865415, www.galleriavarsi.it.

Gavin Brown's Enterprise

New York gallerist Gavin Brown shows the work of international artists at his Trastevere gallery in a deconsecrated church dating to the eighth century. S. Andrea de Scaphis, Via dei Vascellari 69, www.gavinbrown.biz.

Il Ponte Contemporanea

Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls.com.

RvB ARTS

Rome-based gallery specialising in affordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www.rvbarts.com.

Sala 1

Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via Giuseppe Acerbi 31A, tel. 0653098768, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.

This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.

La Nuova Pesa

S.T. Foto libreria galleria

Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists.

Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.

Magazzino d’Arte Moderna

Contemporary art gallery that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.

Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel.

0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri

The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.

T293

Monitor

The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it.

Nero Gallery

The Gallery Apart

Space dedicated to showcasing young international artists working in pop surrealism, lowbrow art, dark art, comic art and surrealism. Via Castruccio Castracane 9, tel. 0627801418, www.nerogallery.com.

This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.

Nomas Foundation

TraleVolte

This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, t el. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.

Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel.

0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.

Contemporary art gallery focusing on the relationship between art and architecture, hosting solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org.

White Noise Gallery

Based in the S. Lorenzo district, this gallery exhibits unconventional work by young Italian and international artists. Via della Seggiola 9, tel. 066832833, www.whitenoisegallery.it.

Wunderkammern

This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www.wunderkammern.net.

Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin

Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria offers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists.

Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it.

Wanted in Rome • March 2022 | 29

where to go in Rome

WHAT’S ON Judith I (detail) by Gustav Klimt at Palazzo Braschi. See page 33.

Wanted in Rome • March 2022 | 31

EXHIBITIONS Museums and other cultural sites in Italy are open only to visitors with a Super Green Pass (the certificate issued following vaccination or recovery from covid-19). This provision does not apply to visitors under the age of 12.

Most venues require advance booking and the wearing of masks is obligatory. Weekend visits to more popular sites such as the Colosseum and the Pantheon must be booked at least one day ahead. For visiting details check websites in advance.

JAGO

12 MARCH-3 JULY

Palazzo Bonaparte reopens after two years with an exhibition devoted to the young Italian sculptor Jago, born Jacopo Cardillo in 1987, who is known for his hyper-realistic sculptures and his huge following on social media. The show features 12 works, ranging from small carved river stones to the more recent monumental

Bill Viola at Palazzo Bonaparte. Martyrs series - Water Martyr (detail). Photo Kira Perov © Bill Viola Studio.

sculpture La Pietà and his highprofile Habemus Hominem bust of Pope Emeritus Benedict XVI. See Art News page XX. Piazza Venezia 5, www.mostrepalazzobonaparte.it.

BILL VIOLA: ICONS OF LIGHT 5 MARCH-26 JUNE

Palazzo Bonaparte’s first show in its new season is dedicated to Bill Viola, the American video artist whose installations revolve around electronic, sound and image technology. Curated by Kira Perov, the exhibition comprises 10 works by Viola including Ascension (2000) and Water Portraits (2015). Piazza Venezia 5, www. mostrepalazzobonaparte.it.

GUIDO RENI AND ROME: NATURE AND DEVOTION 1 MARCH-22 MAY

Galleria Borghese stages a exhibition of works by Guido Reni, the first such major show dedicated to the Baroque master in Italy in three decades. The exhibition is built around Reni’s painting Country Dance, recently returned to the museum’s collection from which it was sold at the end of the 19th century. Curated by Francesca Cappelletti, the exhibition will focus on Reni’s interest in landscape painting in relationship to the other Italian and foreign painters active in Rome in the early 17th century. Galleria Borghese, Piazzale Scipione Borghese 5, www. galleriaborghese.beniculturali.it.

CRAZY: MADNESS IN CONTEMPORARY ART 18 FEB-8 MARCH 2023

Jago with Habemus Hominem at Palazzo Bonaparte.

32 | March 2022 • Wanted in Rome

Chiostro del Bramante presents a new large-scale exhibition project curated by Danilo Eccher. The works of 21 international artists fill the venue’s internal and external spaces “because madness cannot have limits.” The exhibition, described as unpredictable and immersive, will features 11 sitespecific works displayed in rooms not normally open to visitors. The 21 artists include Petah Coyne, Ian Davenport, Janet Echelman, Lucio Fontana, Anne Hardy, Thomas Hirschhorn, Alfredo Pirri, Gianni Politi. Chiostro del Bramante, Arco della Pace 5, www. chiostrodelbramante.it.

painting has had on the art world over the centuries, the exhibition comprises 31 works, from major institutions, including the Prado and the Thyssen Museum in Madrid, the Capodimonte Museum in Naples and the Borghese Gallery in Rome.

The show features works by artists including Orazio and Artemisia Gentileschi, Valentin de Boulogne, Pietro Novelli, Mattia Preti and Giuseppe Vermiglio.

Palazzo Barberini, Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, www.barberinicorsini.org.

Guido Reni at Galleria Borghese. Atalanta e Ippomene © Photo courtesy Ministero della Cultura - Museo e Real Bosco di Capodimonte, Napoli.

ANTONIO PRONOSTICO 5 FEB-5 MARCH

Rosso20sette Arte Contemporanea hosts the solo exhibition Seduta di coppia by Antonio Pronostico, winner of the Artribune award as best illustrator 2021. The Romebased artist presents a series of illustrations depicting couples seated uncomfortably, as they carry out daily activities, in what has been described as “a delicate and romantic reflection on the difficult balance that characterises every form of coexistence.” Rosso20sette contemporary art, Via del Sudario 39, www.rosso27.com.

series of video interviews. Museo nazionale delle arte del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4/A, www.maxxi.art.

CARAVAGGIO AND ARTEMISIA 26 NOV-27 MARCH

Caravaggio and Artemisia: Judith’s challenge. Violence and seduction in painting between the 16th and 17th centuries. This exhibition at Palazzo Barberini takes as it starting point Judith who decapitates Holofernes in Caravaggio’s masterpiece which was rediscovered 70 years ago before being acquired by the Italian state.

Evaluating the impact the powerful

KLIMT: LA SECESSIONE E L’ITALIA 27 OCT-27 MARCH

Palazzo Braschi presents an exhibition of paintings by Gustav Klimt, including Portrait of a Lady, which went missing for almost 23 years after its theft from a gallery in Piacenza. The painting was stolen in 1997 before being rediscovered in the gallery’s garden, in mysterious circumstances, in 2019. The works on show feature some of the Austrian artist’s masterpieces from the Belvedere Museum in Vienna, the Klimt Foundation and public and private collections such as the Neue Galerie Graz. Highlights among the paintings, sculptures and drawings on display include Judith I, Lady in White, Friends I (The

GOOD NEWS: WOMEN IN ARCHITECTURE 16 DEC-11 SEPT

Rome’s MAXXI documents the growing presence of women, collectives and studio couples in the architectural profession as it shakes off the 20th-century stereotype of the architect of the charismatic (male) grandmaster. The exhibition Good News examines how “new figures are infusing new forces” into contemporary architecture, with a particular focus on the work of studios directed or co-chaired by female international designers.

MAXXI, which was designed by the celebrated Zaha Hadid, pays tribute in the show to architects including Charlotte Perriand, Elizabeth Diller and Frida Escobedo alongside a

Gustav Klimt at Palazzo Braschi. Judith I, (detail).

Wanted in Rome • March 2022 | 33

Good News: Women in Architecture at MAXXI.

Sisters), Amalie Zuckerkandl and The Bride. The exhibition focuses on the artist’s relationship with Italy and the influence he had on other artists working in the country.

Museo di Roma, Piazza Navona 2, tel. 060608, www.museodiroma.it.

SEBASTIAO SALGADO

photojournalist Margaret BourkeWhite (1904-1971). The show comprises more than 100 images from the Life archive in New York, documenting the photographer’s unconventional vision and life.

Bourke-White was the first known female war correspondent and the first woman to be allowed to work

in combat zones during world war two. The photographs on display in Rome chronicle soldiers in world war two, aerial shots of American cities, portraits of Stalin and Gandhi, apartheid in South Africa and racial segregation in the US. Piazza S. Egidio 1/b, tel. 060608, www.museodiromaintrastevere.it.

1 OCT-13 FEB

Photojournalist Sebastião Salgado provides a black and white photographic journey through the Brazilian Amazon, after he spent six years capturing images of the forest, the rivers, the mountains and the people who live there. MAXXI, Italy’s national museum of 21st-century arts, presents Salgado’s 200 photographs against a soundscape of sounds recorded in the forests and created

by Jean-Michel Jarre – feauring the rustling of trees, birdsong, the shrieks of animals, and the roar of waterfalls.

The exhibition highlights the fragility of this ecosystem, showing that in the protected areas where the indigenous communities live the forest has suffered almost no damage. MAXXI, Via Guido Reni 4A, www.maxxi.art.

MARGARET BOURKE-WHITE 21 AUG-30 APRIL

Museo di Roma in Trastevere presents an exhibition dedicated to the pioneering American

34 | March 2022 • Wanted in Rome

Margaret Bourke-White at Museo di Roma in Trastevere.

Classical ACCADEMIA FILARMONICA ROMANA IL VIOLONCELLO SVELATO 4-25 MARCH

There are four concerts in this series of cello and piano music, featuring Giorgio Lucchini on 4 March, Francesco Angelico on 11 March, Enrico Mignani on 18 March and Tommaso Castellano on 25 March.

The programme features lesser known music for cello and piano,

by Poulenc, Debussy, Beethoven, Mendelssohn, Cilea and others.

Sala Casella, Via Flaminia 18. www. filarmonicaromana.org.

SENTIERI SELVAGGI AUDEN CABARET 10 MARCH

Violinist Janine Jansen performs at S. Cecilia on 24-25 March.

Matteo D’Amico has composed a new work influenced by the W.H.Auden libretto The Entertainment of the Sense, for the Sentieri Selvaggi contemporary music ensemble. The first part of the programme features Ravel’s Cinque Melodies Populaires Grecques for voice and sextet. Sala Casella, Via Flaminia 18, www. filarmonicaromana.org.

an introductory lecture on Turandot

by Michele dall’ Ongaro, the president of S. Cecilia on 6 March.

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via P. de Coubertin 36, www. santacecilia.it.

TIFU AND ANDALORO

16 MARCH

24 MARCH

Anna Tifu violin and Giuseppe Andaloro piano perform music by Frank and Ravel, the Poème by Ernest Chausson and Carmen Fantasie de Concert by Pablo De Sarasate. Teatro Argentina, Largo Argentina, www. filarmonicaromana.org.

ACCADEMIA S. CECILIA PUCCINI’S TURANDOT 12 MARCH

Antonio Pappano conducts the S. Cecilia orchestra and chorus performing Pucci’s Turandot in concert form. One of the attractions of this concert is celebrity tenor Jonas Kaufmann as Calaf. There is

36 | March 2022 • Wanted in Rome

NIKOLAY LUGANSKY IN RECITAL Pianist Nikolay Lugansky performs music by Beethoven, Frank and Rachmaninov. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via P. de Coubertin 36, www.santacecilia.it.

ANTONIO PAPPANO 17-19 MARCH

Antonio Pappano conducts the S. Cecilia orchestra and chorus performing Schnittke’s Faust Cantanta and Bruckner’s Symphony no 9.

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via P. de Coubertin 36, www.santacecilia.it.

JANINE JANSEN DENIS KOZHUKHIN 23 MARCH

Janine Jansen violin and Denis

Kozhukhin perform music by Schubert, Brahms and Beethoven.

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via P. de Coubertin 36, www. santacecilia.it.

ANTONIO PAPPANO JANINE JANSEN 24 MARCH

Antonio Pappano conducts violinist Janine Jansen with the S. Cecilia orchestra playing music by Vaughan Williams, Britten and Elgar. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via P. de Coubertin 36, www.santacecilia.it.

DANIELE GATTI KIAN SOLTANI

31 MARCH- 2 APRIL

Cellist Kian Soltani plays Shostavovich’s concerto for cello and orchestra with the S. Cecilia orchestra conducted by Daniele Gatti. The programme also includes the Symphonie Fantastique by Berlioz. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via P. de Coubertin 36, www.santacecilia.it.

DANCE MILAN TEATRO ALLA SCALA JEWELS 11-24 MARCH

Jewels by Ballanchine is made up of three pieces, Emeralds, Rubies and Diamonds, inspired by jewellery designer Claude Arpels.

Each creation has different music (Emeralds to music by Faure,

OPERA MILAN THAÏS BY MASSENET 10 FEB-2 MARCH

Massenet’s opera, inspired by Anatole France’s novel, has never been performed before at La Scala.

It debuted in Paris in 1894 and then in Milan in 1903 at the Teatro Lirico Internazionale.

Lorenzo Viotti conducts La Scala orchestra and chorus and it is staged by the French director Olivier Pye. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

PIQUE DAME BY TCHAIKOVSKY 23 FEB-15 MARCH

Tchaikovsky’s opera in a new La Scala production directed by Matthias Hartmann. When it opened in late February the opera was conducted by Valery Gergiev, who is a friend of Russian president Vladimir Putin. The mayor of Milan Beppe Sala had asked Gergiev to denounce the Russian invasion of Ukraine or not return to La Scala.

The maestro did not reply so has been dropped. At the time of going to press it had not been announced who would replace him to conduct

Rubies to music by Stravinsky and Diamonds to music by Tchaikovsky) as well as a different theme and colour scheme. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.

ROME TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA FORSYTHE/INGER/BLANC

25 FEB-3 MARCH Three works by this trio of choreographers, Herman Schmerman

by William Forsythe, Walking Mad by Johan Inger and From Afar by Nicholas Blanc, danced by Alessandra Amato,

Pique Dame March.

Susanna Salvi, Claudio Cocino and Alessio Rezza of the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma Ballet Corps. When asked in an interview about the name for his work for the New York Ballet this was Forsythe’s reply: “I first heard that phrase [‘Herman Schmerman’] used by Steve Martin in the film Dead Men Don’t Wear Plaid. I think it’s a lovely title that means nothing. The ballet means nothing, too. It’s a piece about dancing that will be a lot of fun.

It’s just ... talented dancers dancing around — and that’s good, isn’t it?”

Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it.

on 5, 8, 13 and 15

ADRIANA LEVCOUVRER

BY FRANCESCO CILEA 4-19 MARCH

The opera returns to La Scala for the first time since 2007. This is a Covent Garden production, directed

by David McVicar. La Scala orchestra and chorus will be conducted by Giampaolo Bisanti. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.

DON GIOVANNI BY MOZART 27 March-12 April

This Robert Carson version of Mozart’s opera was first staged at La Scala during the 2011-2012 season. It will be conducted by Pablo Heras-Casado and a new cast with baritone Christopher Maltman as Don Giovanni. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.

ROME TURANDOT BY PUCCINI 22-31 MARCH

This is a new Teatro dell’Opera di Roma production, conducted by Oksana Lyniv and directed by Ai Weiwei. The Ukrainian conductor Oksana Lyniv and Ai Weiwei make an intriguing combination for Rome

Valery Gergiev, who had been conducting Pique Dame, has been dropped by La Scala over his refusal to condemn Russia's invasion of Ukraine.

opera lovers. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it.

LA PASSIONE BY J.S.BACH 10-13 APRIL

St Matthew’s Passion, written in 1727 will be performed at the Fuksas Nuvola Congress Centre in EUR. It is a new production co-produced with EUR Spa. Conducted by James Conlon with Charles Workman as the Evangelist, Krzysztof Baczyk as Jesus, sopranos Maria Grazia Schiavo and Veronica Marini, mezzo soprano Vivien Shotwell and Tenor Krystian Adam. La Nuvola, EUR. Wanted in Rome • March 2022 | 37

ART NEWS MICHELANGELO’S THREE PIETA’ SCULPTURES GO ON DISPLAY TOGETHER

The three Pietà sculptures by Renaissance master Michelangelo have gone on display together for the first time in an exhibition at the Museo Opera del Duomo in Florence, from 24 February until 1 August.

The exhibition comprises the newly-restored original Bandini Pietà, from Florence’s cathedral museum, along with the casts of the Pietà in St Peter’s and the Rondanini Pietà from the Vatican Museums. The show is titled Le Tre Pietà di Michelangelo: Non vi si pensa quanto sangue costa (“We do not think of how much blood it costs”), a reference to a verse in the Paradiso canticle of Dante’s Divine Comedy.

del Novecento in Milan; Claudio Salsi, superintendent of Castello Sforzesco; and Timothy Verdon, director of the Opera del Duomo. After the Florence exhibition comes to an end, the three works will go on display in the autumn at Palazzo Reale in Milan.

ROME’S PALAZZO BONAPARTE REOPENS

There is good news for Rome’s art scene with the reopening of Palazzo Bonaparte, an important exhibition space in the city centre, with several major shows lined up in 2022. Located in the heart of the capital, where Via del Corso meets Piazza Venezia, the newly-restored venue launched a few months before Italy was struck by the covid-19 pandemic and subsequent lockdowns.

The three marble works are on display as part of the Mediterranean, Frontier of Peace 2022 event which saw the participation of religious and civil institutions who met on 27 February to discuss issues affecting the Mediterranean region. Organisers say the display will allow viewers to study the evolution of Michelangelo’s art, as well as “his spiritual maturation”, over a period of more than 50 years.

The St Peter’s Pietà dates to 1498–1499 and was completed when Michelangelo was aged just 24. The world-renowned work of art depicts the body of Jesus on the lap of his mother Mary after the Crucifixion.

Michelangelo worked on the Bandini Pietà, also called The Deposition or The Lamentation over the Dead Christ, between 1547 and 1555 when he was in his 70s. It depicts Jesus after his descent from the cross, supported by the Virgin Mary, Mary Magdalene and an aged Nicodemus, who bears a resemblance to Michelangelo. The artist sculpted the Rondanini Pietà, his final work, from 1552 until the last days of his life, in 1564. The marble statue, which was left unfinished, is on display today at Milan’s Castello Sforzesco. It depicts the mourning Virgin Mary struggling to hold the upright body of Jesus close to hers.

The exhibition is curated by Barbara Jatta, director of the Vatican Museums; Sergio Risaliti, director of the Museo

Palazzo Bonaparte reopens its doors after two years.

Palazzo Bonaparte opened in late 2019 with an exhibition of lesser-known Impressionist works by artists including Monet, Renoir, Cézanne and Gauguin.

There was also a parallel Lego show for children.

However within months of its launch the venue shut its doors to the public and, with the exception of a five-day opening at the start of summer 2020, it has remained closed ever since. Palazzo Bonaparte reopens in March with two new exhibitions: one dedicated to American video artist Bill Viola, the other to Italian sculptor Jago.

(See Exhibitions page 32). Palazzo Bonaparte is also scheduled to host a Van Gogh exhibition this October.

Owned by Generali Italia, Italy’s largest insurance company, Palazzo Bonaparte is run in partnership with the Italian firm Arthemisia which organises large-scale exhibitions. Designed by 17th-century architect Giovanni Antonio De Rossi, Palazzo Bonaparte is best known as the home of Maria Letizia Ramolino, Napoleon’s mother, who watched the world go by from the building’s green balcony from 1818 until her death in 1836.

Michelangelo's three Pietà sculptures on display in Florence.

38 | March 2022 • Wanted in Rome

Andy Devane

lassical lassical

The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a definitive list of all the music that is available in the city.

The following is a list of the main musical There are also concerts in many of the associations in Rome but it is not a definitive churches and sometimes in the museums. list of all the music that is available in the city.

There are also concerts in many of the Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della churches and sometimes in the museums.

Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Auditorium Conciliazione, ViaP. de della Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Accademia Filarmonica Teatro Auditorium Parco della Romana, Musica, Viale P. de Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro starts on 15 Oct Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it.

All www.filarmonicaromana.org.

The new season concerts Parco della Musica. The startsat onAuditorium 15 Oct newAccademia season startsS. on 5Cecilia, Oct www.santacecilia.it. All

concerts Universitaria at Auditorium Parco della Musica.

Istituzione dei Concerti, AulaThe newUniversità season starts on 5 Oct www.concertiiuc.it Magna, la Sapienza,

Istituzione Universitaria deiGonfalone Concerti,32a, Aula Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it www.oratoriogonfalone.com Oratorio delMethodist Gonfalone, Via delPiazza Gonfalone 32a, RomeConcerts, Church, Ponte www.oratoriogonfalone.com S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it RomeConcerts, Piazza Ponte Roma Sinfonietta, Methodist AuditoriumChurch, Ennio Morricone, S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Roma Auditorium Roma Tre Sinfonietta, Orchestra, some concertsEnnio are atMorricone, Teatro Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others at Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are are at Teatro the Aula Magna, Piazza Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, 8, Palladium, Bartolomeo Romano Universita Roma Tre, Via while Ostienze teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, others234, are at www.r30.org the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Tre,festivals Via Ostienze 234, There are oftenRoma concerts, and opera www.r30.org recitals in several churches in Rome.

often concerts, festivals and153, opera All There Saints' are Anglican Church, Via Babuino recitals in several churches in Rome. www.allsaintsrome.org All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. www.allsaintsrome.org Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7 Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com

Oratorio del Caravita, Caravita St Paul's Within the Walls,Via Viadella Nazionale and7 the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the S. Agnese Sagrestia del Borromini, corner ofin ViaAgone, Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it Piazza Navona S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Palazzo PiazzaDoria NavonaPamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called the year.

There is a concert, a tour of the museum Serenades

by Night Dinner throughout and Opera dinner afterwards.

Viawith del Corso 305, the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum www.doriapamphilj.com and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com 5040 | Oct 2018 •2022 Wanted in Rome | March • Wanted in Rome

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The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals.

See Wantedshow in Rome website for The following cinemas movies in English weekly updates. or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for Adriano, Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 weeklyPiazza updates.

Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel.

Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 0686391361 Barberini, Piazza BarberiniMastroianni 24-26, 1, tel.

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello 0686391361 tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it 068553485 Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel.

Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel.

068553485 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel.

Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel.

Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 066861068 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel.

Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 066861068 Odeon, Piazza Stefano 22, tel.

Nuovo Sacher, LargoJacini Ascianghi 1, 0686391361 tel. 065818116

Space Moderno, Piazza della 44, tel.

Odeon, Piazza Stefano JaciniRepubblica 22, tel. 0686391361 06892111 Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel.

Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebec06892111 chini 3-5, tel. 06892111 Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111

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Wanted in Rome | December 2017

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Teatro 06684000314, ww T Teatro Belli, 06684000314, ww ww T Teatro ww Brancaccio, ww T Teatro ww Ghione, ww T Teatro ww 06684000311, ww T 06684000311, ww

TEATRO COSTANZI FEBRUARY 25 - MARCH 3, 2022

HERMAN SCHMERMAN WALKING MAD FROM AFAR TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA ÉTOILES, PRINCIPAL DANCERS, SOLOISTS AND CORPS DE BALLET A TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA NEW PRODUCTION

MUSIC ON RECORDED BASIS

TEATRO COSTANZI MARCH 22 - 31, 2022

GIACOMO PUCCINI

Turandot

CONDUCTOR OKSANA LYNIV DIRECTOR, SET, COSTUME DESIGNER, VIDEO AI WEIWEI TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA ORCHESTRA AND CHORUS A TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA NEW PRODUCTION operaroma.it

SOCI FONDATORI

SOCI PRIVATI

MECENATI

Ettore Festa, HaunagDesign - IIllustration by Gianluigi Toccafondo

Forsythe / Inger / Blanc

ddance oopera p pop r ock r ance

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano www.teatrovascello.it 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it

pera

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

op

ock

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Concert venues ranging from major pop and Alexanderplatz, 9, tel. 0683775604 rock groups to Via jazzOstia and acoustic gigs. www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel.

0683775604 Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org Angelo Mai Via Atlantico delle Terme di Atlantico, VialeAltrove, dell’Oceano 271d, Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org tel.

065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it

Atlantico, Viale Atlantico Auditorium Parcodell’Oceano della Musica, Viale 271d, P. de tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com Auditorium della Viale de Casa del Jazz, Parco Viale di PortaMusica, Ardeatina 55,P.tel.

Coubertin,www.casajazz.it tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com 06704731,

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Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel.

06704731, www.casajazz.it

heatre heatre

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel.

06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel.

Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net www.teatrobelli.it Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobelli.it www.teatrobrancaccio.it Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatrobrancaccio.it www.teatroghione.it Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. www.teatroghione.it 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel.

06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net 50 | Jan 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel.

0641780081, www.lanificio159.com Lanificio 159,ViaVia di Pietralata 159, Live Alcazar, Cardinale Merry del Valtel.

14, 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com tel.

065810388, www.livealcazar.com Live Alcazar, Merry del 35, Val 14, Monk Club, Via ViaCardinale Giuseppe Mirri tel. tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com 0664850987, www.monkroma.it Monk Club, ViaPiazzale Giuseppe Mirri 35,1, tel.

PalaLottomatica, dello Sport tel.

0664850987, www.monkroma.it 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it PalaLottomatica, Piazzale Sport 1, tel.

Rock in Roma, Via Appiadello Nuova 1245, tel.

06540901, www.palalottomatica.it 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel.

Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel.

0654220870 www.rockinroma.com 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel.

Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel.

063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it www.teatrosangenesio.it Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsiwww.teatrosangenesio.it stina.it Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.ilsistina.it www.teatrovascello.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Vittoria,www.teatrovascello.it Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. tel. 065898031, 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Wanted in Rome March 2022 | 43 51 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome

44 | March 2022 • Wanted in Rome

By Kate Zagorski

RIGATONI ALLA GRICIA Although it often plays second fiddle to the famous Roman pasta triumvirate of carbonara, amatriciana and cacio e pepe, la gricia is in many ways the most Roman of them all. Giving equal limelight to both guanciale and pecorino it combines chunks of crunchy pork jowl with a creamy cheese coating to celebrate the very best of local produce.

Sometimes referred to as a ‘white amatriciana’, gricia originated in the countryside around Rome where the skill in balancing just a few ingredients to create something delicious helped to form the backbone of traditional Roman cuisine. It’s now the perfect ‘empty the fridge’ dish; quick, simple and comforting. Be sure to take some time at the end to stir in the pecorino carefully: tossing the pasta, the starchy water and the guanciale fat with the cheese will magically bind everything together right before your eyes.

Ingredients (Serves 2)

200g rigatoni 200g guanciale 60ml white wine 50g grated pecorino romano Black pepper

• Bring a large saucepan of water to the boil, add salt and set the pasta to cook for one minute less than the indicated time.

• Trim the rind from the guanciale and cut into 1cm strips.

• Heat a frying pan and add the guanciale, cook for a few minutes until the fat is released and it is turning crispy at the edges.

Add the white wine and simmer for 2 minutes to evaporate the alcohol.

• Add the almost cooked pasta to the pan with a good splash of the cooking water, continue to cook for another minute.

• When the pasta is al dente turn off the heat and sprinkle in the pecorino, toss everything together well to thicken and coat the pasta. Add some freshly ground black pepper and serve immediately.

The best cacio e pepe in Rome, seven unmissable restaurants Cacio e pepe is the quintessential Roman pasta dish, made with simple ingredients but far from simple to prepare. There are those who like it with hand-made tonnarello, and those who prefer spaghetti. Here are the best cacio e pepe restaurants in Rome, according to Puntarella Rossa.

7. FLAVIO AL VELAVEVODETTO In Testaccio, chef and restaurateur Flavio De Maio serves the finest specialities of Roman cuisine. Flavio's cacio e pepe recipe doesn’t call for a frying pan, but for a ‘mantecatura’ off the heat with pecorino romano, black pepper, the cooking water from the pasta and a dash of olive oil (“to ensure that when the dish cools down, the cheese mixes with the oil and adds a burst of flavour, taking the edge off the pecorino”). Price: €11.

6. DA FELICE Since Felice Trivelloni opened his osteria in 1936, the restaurant has been something of an institution for Roman cuisine. Their forte is indeed the cacio e pepe; it is plentiful and delicious and made with tonnarelli, cooking water from the pasta, pecorino and olive oil, for an irresistible creaminess.

The finishing touch is the way in which it’s served: the pasta, cooking water and pecorino are mixed directly on the customer’s plate. Price: €13.

5. DA DANILO The cacio e pepe served at Trattoria Da Danilo in Esquillino is definitely one of the most renowned in the city. The most famous dish is, of course, the tonnarelli cacio e pepe, made with olive oil, freshly ground black pepper, cooking water from the pasta and pecorino romano. The difference at Danilo is that the pasta is mixed together directly in the pecorino romano wheel itself. The result is a superb creaminess and an intense flavour. Price: €10.

4. DA CESARE Here you can enjoy two versions of cacio e pepe, one with dry pasta (spaghetti, rigatoni), or fresh, handmade tonnarelli.

Chef Leonardo Vignoli explains that to make cacio e pepe you need to mix the ground black pepper with the grated pecorino romano (which should have been matured for 6 months minimum) and a little cold water, then add the al dente spaghetti and give it a first mix off the heat. You should then

add a generous spoonful of cooking water from the pasta, put it back on the heat and stir it until it is creamy. Price: €9.

3. VYTA ENOTECA REGIONALE DEL LAZIO At Vyta you can try two versions of cacio e pepe, the classic variety or the summer version: tonnarelli, pecorino romano, fresh pepper, lemon and Roman mint. Here’s the recipe for a 500g serving: cook the tonnarelli in lots of salted water. While the pasta is still on the heat, take a spoonful of the cooking water and put it in a large saucepan. Add ground pepper to the water. Drain the pasta, put in pan and mix. Keep the pan on the heat and mix very slowly, using 100g of pecorino and grated lemon rind. Keep stirring until there’s the creaminess of cacio e pepe. Then add mint leaves. Serve immediately, adding another 50g of pecorino. Price: €13.

2. LA TERRAZZA DELL’HOTEL EDEN At the Hotel Eden, one of Rome’s most exclusive hotels, award-winning chef Fabio Ciervo is famous for his spaghetti cacio e pepe from Madagascar. He has reinterpreted the Roman pasta dish with thick spaghetti, chicken stock, pecorino romano, rose petals and black pepper from Madagascar.

This is without a doubt one of the best cacio e pepe in Rome, but it is very expensive in comparison to our other favourites.

Price: €45.

1. ROSCIOLI Established in 1824 and run by a family spanning four generations, Roscioli is a renowned Roman restaurant. Its menu includes all the classic Roman dishes but the star of the show is the cacio e pepe. And so what’s in theirs? Tonnarelli, pecorino romano, cheese from Moliterno, pecorino that has been matured in the earth from Sogliano and Malaysian pepper. It’s not such a simple list as the mix of cheeses gives the dish a special flavour. At the very end, Javan and Sarawakan pepper are ground together and then toasted as the finishing touch – it’s sensational. Price: €12.

www.puntarellarossa.it

Felice, Via Mastro Giorgio 29, tel. 065746800, www.feliceatestaccio.it Da Danilo, Via Petrarca 13, tel. 0677200111, www.trattoriadadanilo.com Da Cesare, Via del Casaletto 45, tel. 06536015, www.trattoriadacesare.it VyTa, Via Frattina 94, tel. 0647786876, www.vytaenotecalazio.it La Terrazza Hotel Eden, Via Ludovisi 49, www.dorchestercollection.com/en/rome/hotel-eden Roscioli, Via dei Giubbonari 21, tel. 066875287, www.salumeriaroscioli.com

Indirizzi

Flavio al Velavevodetto, Via di Monte Testaccio 97, tel. 065744194, www.ristorantevelavevodetto.it

Associations American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com Daughters of the American Revolution Pax Romana Chapter NSDAR paxromana@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com

International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490, www.iwcofrome.it Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 3338466820 Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Woman’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com

Books The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified.

Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 Anglo American Bookshop Via delle Vite 102, tel. 066795222 Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it

Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484 Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com Otherwise Via del Governo Vecchio, tel. 066879825, www.otherwisebookshop.com

Religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881 Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish)

48 | March 2022 • Wanted in Rome

Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 3332284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday Service 10.30

Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei SS. Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Roma Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic) Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00

Support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.com Archè (HIV+children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/06582045580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 3381675680

Transport • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157066645-064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it

50 | March 2022 • Wanted in Rome

St Isidore College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic), Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827, www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri” Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022

Chiamaroma 24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Emergency numbers • • • • • • •

Ambulance tel. 118 Carabinieri tel. 112 Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 Fire brigade tel. 115 Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 Police tel. 113 Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355

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