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MONTE CASSINO RICHARD HODGES

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4. THE BATTLE OF

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Martin Creed Work No. 3067, 2018. Wool tapestry, 58x58 cm. Courtesy Galleria Lorcan O’Neill. From Change Connect Continue. See page 33 for details.

ENTS 4

The Battle of Monte Cassino

GAELIC FOOTBALL IN ROME

ROCK, POP, JAZZ

18 TO DO

History

The Battle of Monte Cassino 75th anniversary of one of the bloodiest battles of world war two Richard Hodges

riving past Monte Cassino many years ago with the late Mark Pluciennik, professor at Leicester University, and one of the most cerebral archaeologists I have known, I pointed out the Benedictine monastery. Mark replied with words I’ve never forgotten: “My father was with the Poles who captured the monastery, and my uncle, his brother, as fate would have it, was with the Germans on top. The battle unwittingly pitched brother against brother.” The monastery at Monte Cassino.

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His words have long lingered in my mind and over the years I have met many survivors of this historic battle between the Allied and Axis forces in 1944. Through them I have become familiar with oral histories and the battlefield archaeology. None spoke well of the experience, though all the Allied veterans recalled with pleasure and gratitude their encounters with the long-suffering Italians. Liberating them justified the struggle. The battle lasted from December 1943 until May 1944, led to the comprehensive destruction

The outline of St Martin’s church excavated by Don Angelo Pantoni.

of the town of Cassino, and at the conclusion, the main objective – defeating the formidable German army – was eschewed in favour of the liberation of Rome. The impact of the battle has left an indelible mark on Italy and in the minds of many, while the performance of some of the generals was in the end reminiscent of the later rather than the earlier Roman empire. All of this can be discovered on the ground. There are archaeological remains galore but, unlike the Normandy battlefield of June-July 1944, it is not organised and really should be. The battle for Monte Cassino embraced the mountains from the Tyrrhenian to the Adriatic Sea. One particular hotspot was, as it happens, where Mark Pluciennik and I were excavating the early mediaeval monastery (9th-11th centuries) in the 1980s and 1990s, S. Vincenzo al Volturno, due east of Monte Cassino. Here multinational forces assembled to assault the Abruzzi mountains, known locally as Le Mainarde. The excavations revealed only one possible legacy from this tumultuous era: the skeleton of a young woman interred in a shallow grave in the remains of the ninth-century refectory. Local workmen excavating with me clearly knew something about this homicide. Ignoring my instructions to record the individual, she was hastily removed without ceremony.

This act revealed how raw the bitter wartime struggle remained, 40 years afterwards. None more so than for the monks of Monte Cassino. As long as we stuck to archaeology and history, our relationship at S. Vincenzo with Monte Cassino’s monks was fine (the monastery owned part of the land we were excavating). Mention the war, and they all but spat with a lingering distaste. The Allied bombing that destroyed the monastery of Monte Cassino on 15 February 1944 was a crime against humanity, I was told more than once. Any mention of the occasion, and the elfin and normally genial archivist, Don Faustino, was transformed; his deep-seated anger boiled over. So, on an occasion when in Monte Cassino’s capacious archive a British diplomat friend asked Don Faustino about the battle, the learned monk snarled about the British and added, by way of taunt, how grateful the monks were to the Germans who transported the precious archive and library to safety long before the battle started. Startled, my friend was about to give as good as he had got when the old abbot, Don Martino Matrinola, slipped into the archive. Don Faustino visibly retreated a step. The abbot, bent and thin, conveyed an immediate eminence. Far from senescent, his beady eyes focussed upon me and he asked about a unique, ninth-century coin I Wanted in Rome • March 2019 | 5

History

The view west and northwards from the monastery.

had discovered at S. Vincenzo and which he had caressed the previous summer in his long, claw-like fingers. I responded and, gauging the twinkle in his old eyes, introduced my diplomat friend as someone who was curious about the infamous bombing. “I was in the monastery, I was Abbot Damiano’s secretary,” he said without a shift in tone. “What would you like to know?” I hastily shaped a simple question to evade Don Faustino’s dismay. And so, Don Martino explained, the abbot and he and a handful of monks as well as hundreds of refugees had sought safety in the deep mediaeval bowels of the largely baroque monastery. As soon as the bombing had finished, they had fled down the mountain, guided by German officers. “Were there Germans in the monastery and guns, tanks?” my friend eagerly enquired. “Ah,” the old monk responded without missing a beat, “you should read our report made that morning to His Holiness [the pope]. It’s part of the papal record. There were indeed Germans here.” With that his mind found sanctuary in his memory of my little silver coin and he muttered more about it before shuffling off into the cloister. I recall this moment in the archive because I had touched history. The Battle The battle pivoted around the monastery of Monte Cassino because the home of the 6 | March 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Benedictines commands a high promontory over the old Roman road, the Via Casilina. This follows the valley from Rome to the Bay of Naples. At the foot of the hill sits ancient Casinum. Its most conspicuous monument is the over-restored Roman theatre next to the modern museum at the foot of monastery hill. Here in December 1943 the Germans commanded by General Fridolin von Senger und Etterlin, an Oxford Rhodes scholar, created a fortification that extended west to the Tyrrhenian Sea near ancient Minturnae (modern-day Minturno) and east over the mountains to the far Adriatic Sea. Close this road, von Senger rationalised, and the Allies would be unable to take Rome. The Allies were ill-prepared for the obstinate German tactics, prompting a bi-passing operation at Anzio. By landing troops near Rome on the beach at Anzio on 22 January 1944, the Allies hoped to encircle and eliminate the Germans and thereafter advance swiftly through Italy, Churchill’s socalled “soft underbelly of Europe”. The sea landings were unopposed and reconnaissance troops managed to drive into Rome. However the Allied commanders then prevaricated and dug in, and the Germans rapidly brought up troops to attack; what happened next was a grotesque battle in the marshland around the beach-head until May. The prevarication came at even greater cost. The Allied offensive against Monte Cassino was intended to suck German troops from Rome to Cassino, creating the vacuum the Anzio landings might exploit. The battle involved crossing the rivers immediately west of Cassino on 20 January on the eve of the landings. The British just succeeded in traversing the Garigliano

History river but the Texas Rangers were massacred while attempting to cross the Rapido river close to Cassino by the German Panzer division entrenched immediately beyond the river. It was a taste of things to come. This first battle successfully diverted German troops from Rome but the opportunity was eschewed and so started the slogging trench warfare. Allied troops pressed through Cassino town and began a cat-and-mouse battle with the enemy. Trapped in and around ancient Casinum in wet wintry conditions, the British commander of the 4th Indian Infantry Division, General Francis Tuker, who believed that parts of the hilltop monastery were occupied by Germans with armour, asked for aerial bombing to destroy the monastery. After a fierce debate among the Allied commanders the bombing was undertaken with very little warning by US planes on 15 February 1944. The aftermath, though, made the monastery an impregnable redoubt. The third battle involved a frontal assault while a road – the Cavendish Road – was cut Looking down the steep stairs first built in the 1060s by Abbott Desiderus.

around the contours behind the monastery to facilitate a bold Allied pincer movement using armour. This battle – Operation Dickens – lasted between 15 and 24 March. Maori crews in Sherman tanks advanced in single file up the steep track. Terrified at first, the German defenders then realised that the American-built tanks were not supported by infantry. Boldly, the defenders knocked out the leading tanks, and so paralysed a dozen or so in their rear. The last battle in 11-23 May 1944 was colossal in scope. After an immense artillery barrage from Allied guns aimed at the monastery and Germans in its surroundings, Allied troops pressed on all fronts, still aiming to encircle the German army. The frontal attack was born by the Free Poles (including Mark Pluciennik’s father), who heroically overwhelmed the monastery’s defenders. No less significant were the French colonial troops, who traversed the high mountain country above Minturnae (Minturno) west of Cassino, intending to descend upon the rear of the Axis army. Von Senger astutely recognised the threat and retreated. His army should have been ensnared at Valmontone (below ancient Artena) by the Anzio divisions breaking out of the beachhead. Instead, General Mark Clark – against the plans of the British commander of the Allied forces in Italy, General Harold Alexander – sought his triumph and diverted his forces to Rome, parading like legions past the Colosseum, ensuring on the eve of D-Day that he was the first Allied commander to capture an Axis capital. This allowed von Senger’s German divisions to retreat east of Rome and to resist the Allies through central and northern Italy until April 1945.

The battle of Monte Cassino – or rather the four battles – was a Pyrrhic victory. Thousands perished and the ancient monastery of Monte Cassino had been blown to smithereens. Monte Cassino Monte Cassino attracts hundreds of thousands of visitors. Poles, in particular, pay homage to the exquisitely arranged cemetery in the 8 | March 2019 • Wanted in Rome Wanted

O P M A C N I E R E D N E C S A I T ROMA PRON STADIO OLIMPICO 019 2 I N O I Z A N SEI

ITALIA VS GALLES

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ITALIA VS FRANCIA

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History is not known. Numerous finds are on display in the monastery’s museum. Post-war excavations, following the bombing, discovered the footings of one of Benedict’s churches, believed to be St Martin’s. Its ground plan is discretely marked out with neat stones in the outer cloister immediately after entering the monastery today. On the far side of this first cloister lies the locked glass door down to the old ceremonial entrance. Peep through it and along the walls you’ll see some of the hundreds of early mediaeval tombstones found in excavations after the war.

The 11th-century bronze doors of the abbey.

valley immediately east of the monastery that commemorates those who ultimately vanquished the German defenders. Few monuments exceed this cemetery in paying tribute to the heroism and tragic inhumanity of war. It is as well to pause in this mass graveyard before rediscovering a quotidian rhythm in the formidable monastery that overshadows it. There are also moving Commonwealth and German war cemeteries close to Monte Cassino. St Benedict founded his monastery in an ancient hilltop site. A massive Samnite (Iron Age) fortification encircles the crown of the hill, the mediaeval and later monastic walls nestle inside its great polygonal stonework. This fortress speaks volumes about the age when archaic Rome was vying for control over central Italy. Inside these cyclopean walls, in excavations made after world war two, remains were found of a Samnite and subsequent Roman temple, dedicated probably to Hercules. In time the temple became an outlier of Casinum, the affluent Roman roadside town at the foot of the hill that, with the defeat of the Samnites, succeeded the cyclopean fortress. Quite how Benedict made use of the earlier temple as he created his sixth-century monastery 10 | March 2019 • Wanted in Rome

The post-war re-building programme is vividly described in a new exhibition held in an annexe to the museum, just off the monastery’s cloister. It tells a remarkable story. Lasting over a decade in the 1940s and 1950s, with American support, the early modern monastery in all its baroque glory was lovingly restored. It was a miracle of sorts. A key person in this rebuilding was Don Angelo Pantoni, an engineer by training and passionate archaeologist. This restless monk had endured the siege and spotted his chance in the aftermath. With haphazard methods, but huge dedication, he excavated wherever he could and published a series of monographs on the monastery’s origins. I knew Don Angelo in his 80s when he visited my excavations at S. Vincenzo. Deaf from birth, twinkling eyes, eccentric in every way in his dishevelled habit, his passion was making sense of the past. Thanks to his antiquarian exactitude, the destruction of Monte Cassino seems barely conceivable today as you climb the steep flight of steps, conceived originally by Abbot Desiderius in the mid to late 11th century, up to a closed outer atrium. One great work of art survives world war two and from this abbot’s re-envisioning of the monastery: the central bronze door made in the 1060s by a Byzantine master in Constantinople. The upper 36 panels are inscribed with names of churches and lands, dependencies of the monastery. Below are two panels bearing dedicatory inscriptions, each flanked by a cross in relief. It bears witness to the abbey at its zenith, before the crusades began, on the main pilgrimage route from northern Europe to the Holy Land. Inside the basilica is a faux baroque church. This replicates the great church that Napoleon Bonaparte sacked in 1799. Before its post-war

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History resurrection – so to speak – the indefatigable Don Angelo excavated in search of Benedict’s first church. What he found were the foundations of the ninth-century abbey-church of Abbot Gisulf, one of the great figures of the age of Charlemagne. Around its outer walls were block-built tombs with bases made from tiles pierced with holes to permit the bodies to decompose gradually. The museum is a treasure-house. Apart from the new, visually striking annexe dedicated to the bombing and re-building, there are rooms full of the monastery’s copes, mitres, paintings, sacramental paraphernalia, and above all some of the great books that are the cornerstone of western civilisation. If you select just one, pause at the open page of the 11th-century encyclopaedia, De rerum naturis (On the nature of things), an opulent copy of the work by the 9th-century scientist and Benedictine abbot, Hrabanus Maurus. How did these treasures survive? Don Faustino, the archivist at Monte Cassino, was never slow to answer this rhetorical question. General von Senger, aware of the huge risk he was taking, had everything transported to Rome and Perugia a month before the Allied vanguard arrived on his horizon. Today the story of the bombing may seem like distant history in the modern monastery. Not so in the town of Cassino below. None of its historic churches survived the battle. Instead, the busy little town has an anonymous feel to it, the result of expedient post-war reconstruction. Only its museum, half a kilometre up monastery

Sherman tank, May 1944, following the successful Polish attack on Monte Cassino.

hill, and the refurbished mediaeval castle with its pencil thin tower come close to recalling the rich heritage of this place before 1944. Cavendish Road Take the SS 509 to S. Elia Fiumerapido Sora from the centre of Cassino and after 3 kms, immediately after crossing a river, turn left on the Via Orsala and follow the narrow lane to a sign that marks the beginning of the Cavendish Road. Made after the failure of the second (February) battle, it was the brainchild of the New Zealand division. Its engineers widened an existing mule-track to enable Sherman tanks to approach the monastery from the rear. This creative adventure on 19 March 1944 came to nothing, but today it is by far the best way to get a sense of the terrain that gave the German defenders a huge advantage. It is a three-hour round trip on a track to the monastery, which is flagged the whole way. The climb is steep and the track has been worn to rubble for the first two kms. But the views of the mountains to the east are peerless. The path passes through thick, low woodland, but press on because at the far end is a memorable piece of archaeology. A Sherman tank has been transformed into a memorial to the Polish 4th “Scorpio” Armoured Regiment who took the road in May 1944. Beyond is a farm where the monastery makes its own beer. It overlooks the formidable remains of the monastery of S. Maria dell’Albaneta. Founded in the 10th century, it was essentially an overspill monastery for Monte Cassino at its apogee. Young Benedictines like Thomas Aquinas were first initiated in this serene spot. Today American trucks from the battle occupy the spot where its cloister once was. The path is now a road, graced with stone memorials to the Poles. Fittingly, the Cavendish Road trail terminates at the Polish cemetery in the shadow of the monastery, a gleaming citadel.

Richard Hodges, an eminent archaeologist, is president of The American University of Rome and was director of the British School at Rome from 1988-1995.

12 | March 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Sport

GAELIC FOOTBALL IN ROME How Ireland’s national sport has been embraced by Italians and international expats in Rome Ed White

“It’s like a cross between rugby and soccer, with a little bit of basketball!” Gaelic football might not be the most well known of sports around the world but it is one of the most physically demanding and tactical – and the club operating in Rome near the Magliana metro station is flourishing. The club, which began seven years ago as Rome Gaelic Football Club but now plays under a regional name bracket as S.S. Lazio Calcio Gaelico, features both men’s and women’s teams playing competitions throughout Italy and Europe. For those none the wiser to the game, Gaelic football was formed as part of the Gaelic Athletic Association (GAA) in Ireland in 1884. The GAA Rome’s first Gaelic football team was established in 2012.

14 | March 2019 • Wanted in Rome

is a sporting and cultural organisation focused on promoting Gaelic games and pastimes, including the other traditional Irish sports of hurling, handball and rounders. Like rugby union, Gaelic football is played between two sides of 15 players on a rectangular grass pitch. Teams aim to run up points by either scoring a goal, similar to soccer, with the ball scored into a net for three points or between two upright posts and over a crossbar, akin to rugby, for one point. A spherical ball with 18 stitched leather panels is used in the game. A player keeps possession of the ball in one of two ways; either by carrying, bouncing and kicking it, or dropping the ball and toe-kicking it back to their hands, known as soloing. Alternatively, players can pass the

Sport

The club trains every Wednesday in EUR.

ball to a teammate by hand-passing, or by dropkicking – similar to a goalkeeper’s punt forward in football. Matches last for 60 minutes, divided into two halves of 30 minutes (with the exception of Ireland’s senior inter-county games, which last for 70 minutes with two halves of 35 minutes). Matches are played at a fierce pace, and at times collisions between players can be fiery. It makes it a thrilling spectacle for the crowds, with championship matches in Ireland being watched by more than 80,000 people. Since its foundation in the late 19th century, at the height of the Home Rule fight for independence from Britain, the GAA has grown to become a major influence in Irish sporting and cultural life with considerable reach into communities throughout Ireland and among the Irish diaspora, including those in Italy. Rome Gaelic Football Club was founded in 2012 by former Rome resident Chris Taggart from County Tyrone. With funding provided by Declan Crean, the boss of Scholars Lounge Irish pub on Via del Plebiscito, the club got up and running at

Roma Rugby Club on Viale Tre Fontane, where training sessions have been held ever since. When Taggart moved to Hong Kong in 2014, he was replaced as president by Sergio Corsini from Rome. Corsini, an avid fan of the Serie A football team S.S. Lazio, proposed that the Gaelic club join the umbrella of the Società Sportiva Polisportiva di Lazio, the second largest multisport club in the world after FC Barcelona. Corsini secured the support of Polisportiva president Antonio Buccioni, leading the club to change its name and receive numerous benefits as part of the umbrella group. The Polisportiva has not supported the club financially but has provided marketing opportunities, including a chance to parade around the Stadio Olimpico ahead of an S.S. Lazio football match in 2016. Former club secretary Cormac Mac Lochlainn credits Scholars Lounge as being “massively helpful” in getting the club established, not to mention having a pool of talent available among the Irish staff and customers. “Without Declan, there wouldn’t be a club to begin with,” Mac Lochlainn told Wanted in Rome. Wanted in Rome • March 2019 | 15

Sport Most Gaelic football clubs in Italy carry a strong Irish contingent; unusually, however, S.S. Lazio Calcio Gaelico has a mix of international players. The club boasts expats from many English-speaking nations and Italians too. Roman Luca Wulzer is one such player, as well as being a coach, referee, promoter and assistant to the current chairman, Italian Paolo Ialongo. Wulzer fell in love with the fast-paced sport during a weekend in Dublin four years ago. On his return to the Eternal City he immediately found the Rome club and joined. Wulzer says: “We welcome new players all the time and usually the first training session in September means lots of new recruits, which leads us to create a specific training session for newcomers. “We are always open to new members from different nationalities and cultural background. Diversity is a key value for us. Gaelic football may be the Irish national sport but we are a melting pot: there are Italians, Irish, Brits, Americans, Germans and Poles.” There is a core of 15 to 18 players, with other expats joining for short spells to maintain a sizeable playing squad. The club trains every Wednesday and also offers fun taster sessions for novices to understand the basics. Team members have the chance of touring European cities playing competitions, in addition to enjoying the social side of the club. Most European teams are based outside Italy – mainly in France, Germany and the UK. Therefore tournaments are often held abroad. In the past year, S.S. Lazio Calcio Gaelico has travelled to Bratislava in Slovakia and Augsburg and Berlin in Germany. In a momentous occasion for the club, the first official European Gaelic Football Tournament in history was held in Rome last April. The Rome club has made its mark on the international stage. Three years ago, three players in the team represented the European team at the GAA World Games in Dublin and there are plans to set up an Italian national team for the upcoming 2019 world games, to be held in the Irish capital between 29 July and 1 August. 16 | March 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Key to the new Italian team would be Lazio’s star player Brian Ó Cuív, considered one of the best players across the European nations. Half Italian and half Irish, Ó Cuív is a descendant of Éamon de Valera, the most dominant political figure in 20th-century Ireland. In 2016, 14 teams took part in the GAA World Games, with the New York team beating the French men’s team in the Native Cup Final at Ireland’s national stadium, Croke Park. The European & Galician Ladies team won both of the women’s competitions; the Native Plate and Shield. However the greatest prize in the sport is the annual All-Ireland Senior Football Championship, which has been competed for by 32 county teams across Ireland and Northern Ireland since 1888. Each county has distinctive colours, with supporters proudly adopting flags in support of their team during the season. The final of the competition must be played by the 35th Sunday of the year. In 2018, the Dublin team recorded its 28th success, beating Tyrone in front of 82,300 spectators at Croke Park. Scholars Lounge screens all the GAA matches, while for Rome residents interested in trying the real thing, S.S. Lazio Calcio Gaelico is always on the look-out for new talent. INFO S.S. Lazio Calcio Gaelico trains every Wednesday evening on the rugby fields at Centro Sportivo Tre Fontane in EUR. Those interested in playing can email Luca Wulzer at luca. wulzer@gmail.com. To find out more about the Lazio GAA team see “S.S. Lazio Calcio Gaelico” Facebook page. S.S. Lazio Calcio Gaelico has both mens’ and womens’ teams.

to do ART MUSIC FOOD NATURE CINEMA FAMILY THEATRE

Mon Tue Wed Thu 4

Spend a Monday morning wandering through the spectacular Palazzo Doria Pamphilj on Via del Corso.

Celebrate the 500th anniversary of the death of Leonardo da Vinci with a major show at Scuderie del Quirinale.

Escape to the town of Bomarzo north of Rome and explore the Park of the Monsters.

The Japanese Cultural Institute presents the animated film The Garden of Words.

Enjoy the open-air street art museum Big City Life in the Tor Marancia suburb.

Check out the new rooftop terrace of the First Roma Dolce hotel on Via del Corso.

Don’t miss the stimulating exhibit The Street: Where the World is Made at MAXXI.

Explore the small Egyptian Museum at Rome’s Egyptian Academy in Valle Giuila.

Be one of the first to see the Robert Mapplethorpe show at Galleria Corsini.

Head to Siena to spend Father’s Day in Italy with a parade and donkey race.

Try a custard-filled zeppole pastry in honour of the feast day of S. Giuseppe.

Watch the Northern Lights streamed live from Lapland at the Auditorium Parco della Musica.

Try out one of RYOGA’s classes for all levels in their three Rome locations. Receive discount with WiR card.

Catch the new Romamor exhibition at the French Academy at Villa Medici.

Attend the opening Indulge in seasonal fried night of the Irish Film artichokes at the newlyFesta at the Casa del refurbished restaurant Cinema. Nonna Betta in the Jewish Ghetto district.

Fri

Sat

Mar Sun 2019 3

See Michelangelo’s Crouching Boy at Palazzo Rhinoceros before it returns to St Petersburg.

Take in the lyrical concert Prime Donne at the Teatro Palladium in Garbatella.

Whisky fans won’t want to miss the two-day Roma Whisky Festival in EUR.

Celebrate the women in your life with a torta mimosa for International Women’s Day.

Bask in the beginning of spring’s blossoms with a picnic in Villa Pamphilj.

Join the Shakespeare discussion at the Auditorium Parco della Musica titled To be…A Woman.

Commemorate the death of Julius Caesar by attending a historical reenactment at Largo Argentina.

Italy and France meet in Celebrate St Patrick’s Rome for the Six Nations Day by raising a pint of rugby tournament. WiR Guinness and taking in cardholders receive some traditional Irish ticket discounts. music at Scholars Lounge.

Check out Centrale Montemartini, one of Rome’s quirkiest but least-visited museums, in Ostiense.

Dance the night away at electronic festival Manifesto at Monk.

Enjoy a family day at the lake in EUR to see 2,500 cherry trees in blossom.

Admire the spiritualthemed work of 14 Spanish artists at Instituto Cervantes in Piazza Navona.

Supplì fans should check out the new Trastevere branch of Supplizio on Via di S. Francesco a Ripa.

Vatican Museums are free today, from 09.00 to 12.30, leaving by 14.00.

Sport Gabrielle Bolzoni

SKIING NEAR ROME

The mountains in central Italy offer skiers in Rome a closer alternative to the Alps

here are many skiing resorts within an easy drive of Rome along the Apennines in Lazio and Abruzzo. Before setting off, check all resort websites for avalanche warnings and snow conditions.

Campocatino

This relatively small ski resort is one of the oldest in the Apennines and is located in the province of Frosinone, about 100 km southeast of Rome. It has 12 km of slopes, located in a karst valley at 1,800 m. It has a chairlift and three ski lifts. The Canalino and the Vermicano slopes are connected and form a good slope of 1,500 m. www.campocatino.eu.

Campo di Giove

Campo di Giove is on the western slope of the Majella natural park in Abruzzo, about 170 km from Rome. A chair lift and a ski lift take skiers up to about 1,800 m. Two bars / restaurants are located along the way. The numerous slopes are of different levels: the Serra Campanile is easy and suitable for kids, the Le Capre, Pareti Rosse and Delle Signore are of medium difficulty, while the Porrara is one of the most fascinating and challenging black runs in the Apennines. There are two school camps, served by conveyor lifts, where children are introduced to skiing and snowboarding. There is also a snow park, a snow playground for young skiers called Kinder Park Giovilandia, and a synthetic ice skating rink open throughout the year. www.comunecampodigiove.it.

Campo Felice

Campo Felice is in the central Apennines of Abruzzo, located within the Sirente-Velino regional natural park, about 113 km from Rome. This ski resort is part of the Tre Nevi area, along with Ovindoli and Campo Imperatore, and is one of the favourite destinations for Romans. It offers 30 km of Alpine skiing of various levels, served by about 10 chair-lifts and several drag lifts for children, which can carry up to 18,000 skiers per hour and guarantee quick access to the slopes. A modern snowmaking system with 250 artificial snow cannons cover over 16 kms. A must for snowboarders is the Swup Snowpark with its jumps and breathtaking passages. www.campofelice.it.

20 | March 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Campo Imperatore

Campo Imperatore was the first ski resort to be developed in the Apennines. It is on the Gran Sasso mountain about 120 km from Rome and at 2,200 m is one of the highest in Italy. A cableway takes skiers from Fonte Cerreto to Campo Imperatore and two chair lifts take them to five panoramic slopes. It offers 15 km of Alpine skiing and 60 km of Nordic skiing. There is also a snow park with half-pipe and boarder cross slopes for snowboarders. www.ilgransasso.it.

Campo Staffi

Campo Staffi is located in Filettino, 100 km from Rome. Its facilities include two chair lifts, three ski lifts and one manovia, which take skiers to 1,500-2,000 m. A 10-km long path is available for lovers of cross-country skiing. A shuttle service connects Filettino to the nearby villages. www.campostaffi.it.

Monte Livata

The Alpine skiing areas of Monte Livata, located about 75 km east of Rome, include Campo Minio and Monna dell’Orso. The slopes, which run from Fossa dell’Acero to Campo dell’Osso, are famous for cross-country skiing and are particularly suitable for families. Three drag lifts take skiers to the top of the mountain, from where they can choose an Alpine skiing descent or a snowboarding and tubing track. The traditional cross-skiing circuit goes from Campo dell’Osso to Campaegli. www.livata.com.

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Ovindoli

Ovindoli is located between Rome and L’Aquila in Abruzzo, about 130 km from the capital in the Sirente-Velino regional natural park. Some of the longest cross-country skiing slopes in central Italy are in the Altopiano delle Rocche which connects Ovindoli with Rocca di Mezzo. The Magnola mountain (1,400-2,220 m), offers 30 km of Alpine skiing, served by modern and efficient lifts. The slopes in the Tre Nevi ski area are of all levels and there are some challenging black runs. There is the Magnola upper park (1,980 m) as well as the lower park, located along the Dolce Vita slope (1,650 m). Ovindoli also has a very efficient snowmaking system, which perfect artificial snow even when natural snow is lacking. www.ovindolimagnola.it.

Pescasseroli

Located in the heart of the Abruzzo national park about 160 km from Rome, this resort offers 20-km of skiing, divided in 14 slopes for all abilities, including two difficult black runs, six red or intermediate slopes and six blue or easy ones for beginners. The 100-km long slope of Alto Sangro crosses the municipalities of Pescasseroli, Pescocostanzo, Aremogna, Pizzalto and Monte Pratello. The resort has three chair lifts and two ski lifts. www.sciareapescasseroli.it.

Roccaraso

Roccaraso, which is about equidistant from Rome and Naples, is one of the major skiing resorts in the Abruzzo. It is the heart of the largest ski area in central Italy, the Alto Sangro area, which includes 160 km of slopes and 36 lifts. Founded in 1910, Roccaraso’s skiing resort still hosts prestigious international competitions. Its numerous slopes include some that are suitable for children. www.roccaraso.net.

Terminillo

This limestone mountain (2,215 m) is one of the few resorts north of Rome, close to Rieti and about 100 km from the capital. Since it was made fashionable by Mussolini in the 1930s it has been a tourist destination for passionate skiers, and it is still one of the favourite winter resorts for Rome’s skiers. It has one cable car, three chair lifts and a conveyor belt, as well as over 40 km of steep slopes for Alpine skiing and 20 km of perfectly beaten Nordic skiing slopes, which are also illuminated at night. Its variegated flora and fauna make it an ideal place for excursions, nature trails and other sporting activities, such as hiking and mountain races. It has a high-altitude riding school with horse-drawn sleds, and the possibility to rent powerful quads, which offer adventurous excursions on the snowy paths. www.monteterminillo.net.

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Wanted in Rome • March 2019 | 21

ROME'S MAJOR

MUSEUMS VATICAN MUSEUMS Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, mv.vatican.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums

Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

STATE MUSEUMS Baths of Diocletian

Crypta Balbi

Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed. Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, www.gnam.beniculturali.it. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

MAXXI

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museumof 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini

Borghese Museum

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.galleriaborghese.it/corsini/en. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed. Via Merulana 248, tel. 0646974832, www.museorientale.it. Interesting national collection of oriental art with some special exhibitions from its own collection and special loans. Tues, Wed, and Fri. 09.00-14.00. Thurs, Sat, Sun. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian on Sun (11.00 and 17.00).

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.galleriabarberini. beniculturali.it. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings

mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

CITY MUSEUMS

Museo Canonica

Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).

Museo Napoleonico

Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.

STUDY ABROAD

Centrale Montemartini

Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, en.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.

Capitoline Museums

PRIVATE MUSEUMS

OR EARN YOUR Casa di Goethe

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

BACHELOR’S DEGREE

Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, en.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun.

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

Chiostro Del Bramante

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.

IN ROME, ITALY

MACRO

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.en.museomacro.org. The city’s collection of contemporary art, plus temporary exhibition space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed. Also MACRO Testaccio, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Galleria Colonna

MAJOR FIELDS OF STUDY

Museo Barracco

Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange •alternative HUMANISTIC STUDIES entrance.

• BUSINESS ADMINISTRATION Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

De Chirico House Museum •Giorgio INTERNATIONAL AFFAIRS Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechiri-

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A • mainly ARTpre-Roman HISTORY collection of sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and •the CLASSICAL clothes from Middle Ages to theSTUDIES 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

• COMMUNICATIONS

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum • ECONOMICS AND FINANCE dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

• ENGLISH LITERATURE

co.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. •de INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS Guided tours in English, advance booking.

•Keats-Shelley ITALIANHouse STUDIES Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking.

– John Keats, Percy •poets MARKETING

• POLITICAL SCIENCE

• HISTORY

www.johncabot.edu admissions@johncabot.edu

Via della Lungara, 233 00165 Rome, Italy +39 066819121 Wanted in Rome • March 2019 | 23

ROME'S MAJOR

MUSEUMS VATICAN MUSEUMS Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums

Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

STATE MUSEUMS Baths of Diocletian

Crypta Balbi

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, www.gnam.beniculturali.it. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

MAXXI

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00. Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini

Borghese Museum

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Palazzo Altemps

Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian. Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

24 | March 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed. Italy's museum of oriental art, formerly located on Via Merulana, is currently closed pending its reopening at Museo Nazionale Preistorico Etnografico Luigi Pigorini di Roma, Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it. Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture,

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coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

CITY MUSEUMS Centrale Montemartini

Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.

Capitoline Museums

Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun.

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

MACRO

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. The city’s collection of contemporary art, plus temporary exhibition space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed. Also Mattatoio, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Museo Canonica

Museo Napoleonico

Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS Casa di Goethe

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www.casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Chiostro Del Bramante

Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it. Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Mon-Fri 10.00-20.00. Sat-Sun 10.00-21.00.

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Galleria Colonna

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Giorgio De Chirico House Museum

Museo Barracco

Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, www.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, www.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking.

Keats-Shelley House

Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www.keats-shelley-house.org. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours available on advance booking.

ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY

ART GALLERIES

1/9 Unosunove

1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.

A.A.M. Architettura

Fondazione Pastifico Cerere

This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pastificiocerere.com.

Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ffmaam.it.

Fondazione Memmo

Associazione Culturale

Franz Paludetto

Dorothy Circus Gallery

Frutta

Ex Elettrofonica

Gagosian Gallery

Valentina Moncada Gallery holds exhibitions of international artists who are active in the international scene today. Via Margutta 54, tel. 063207956, www.valentinamoncada.com. Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com. This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.

Federica Schiavo Gallery

Hosts large solo and group shows of well-known contemporary artists. Piazza di Montevecchio 16, tel. 0645432028, www.federicaschiavo.com.

Fondazione Giuliani per l’Arte Contemporanea

The Giuliani Foundation for Contemporary Art is a private non-profit foundation that produces three contemporary art exhibitions each year. Via Gustavo Bianchi 1, tel. 0657301091, www.fondazionegiuliani.org.

Fondazione Volume!

The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.

26 | March 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www. fondazionememmo.it. Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com. This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via Giovanni Pascoli 21, tel. 06 68210988, www.fruttagallery.com. The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte

Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Galleria Marie-Laure Fleisch

This contemporary art space is dedicated to exhibiting works on paper. Via di Pallacorda 15, tel. 0668891936, www.galleriamlf.com.

Galleria della Tartaruga

Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.

Galleria Il Segno

Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italian and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.

Galleria Mucciaccia

Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.

Giacomo Guidi Arte contemporanea

Montoro 12

Gallery promoting work by contemporary Italian and international artists. Via di Montoro 12, tel. 0668308500, www.m12gallery.com.

Nomas Foundation

Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.

This contemporary art gallery presents exhibitions from a diverse group of Italian and foreign artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Corso V. Emanuele II 282-284, tel. 0668801038, www.giacomoguidi.it.

Operativa Arte Contemporanea

Galleria Varsi

Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 339 / 7254235, 366 / 3988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.

A small but dynamic gallery near Campo de’ Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di S. Salvatore in Campo 51, tel. 0668309410, www.galleriavarsi.it.

Il Ponte Contemporanea

Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via di Panico 5559, tel. 0668801351, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.

La Nuova Pesa

Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.

Magazzino d’Arte Moderna

Contemporary art galley that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.

Monitor

This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, tel. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.

Monserrato Arte ‘900

This gallery in the Campo de’ Fiori area represents a range of contemporary Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 14, tel. 348/2833034.

A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.

Pian de Giullari

Plus Arte Puls

Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 335 / 7010795, www.plusartepuls.com.

RvB ARTS

Rome-based gallery specialising in affordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www.rvbarts.com.

Sala 1

This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.

S.T. Foto libreria galleria

Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri

The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.

Wanted in Rome • March 2019 | 27

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F I R S T I N T E R N AT I O N A L S C H O O L I N I TA LY Via di Villa Lauchli, 180 - 00191 Rome, Italy Tel. +39 06.3629101 28 | Feb 2019 • Wanted in Rome

www.marymountrome.com

where to go in Rome

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Donne: Corpo e immagine tra simbolo e rivoluzione at Galleria Arte Moderna. Il dubbio by Giacomo Balla. See page 35 Wanted in Rome â&#x20AC;˘ March 2019 | 29

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EXHIBITIONS Pa M

EXHIBITIONS PAOLA PIVI: WORLD RECORD

LEONARDO DA VINCI: LA SCIENZA PRIMA DELLA SCIENZA

MAXXI showcases the work of the award-winning Italian multimedia artist Paola Pivi whose oeuvre includes performance, sculpture and large-scale installations. She is also known for her photographic representations of animals in performative happenings in sometimes ironic and surprising contexts. Museo nazionale delle arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4A, www.maxxi.art.

The Scuderie del Quirinale holds a major exhibition devoted to the Renaissance genius Leonardo da Vinci on the 500th anniversary of his death. Entitled La scienza prima della scienza, the exhibition includes works that offer insights into da Vinci’s technical and scientific advances within the cultural context of his era. The exhibition will showcase his designs for flying machines, his use of perspective, his studies for an ideal city, and his masterful mix of classical tradition and scientific innovation. Scuderie del Quirinale, Via XXIV Maggio 16, tel. 0292897722, www.scuderiequirinale.it.

3 April-8 Sept

ROBERT MAPPLETHORPE: L’OBIETTIVO SENSIBILE 15 March-30 June

Galleria Corsini showcases the work of celebrated American photographer Robert Mapplethorpe (1946-1999) on the 30th anniversary of his death. The show comprises 45 photographs by Mapplethorpe who courted much controversy in the US over the homoerotic nature of his work. The Rome exhibition focuses on some of the artist’s less controversial themes such as still lifes, landscapes, classical statues and Renaissance composition. Galleria Corsini, Via della Lungara 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org.

13 March-28 July

HELEN FRANKENTHALER 13 March-19 July

Rome’s Gagosian Gallery presents Sea Change: A Decade of Paintings, 1974–1983, an exhibition by the late American abstract expressionist painter Helen Frankenthaler (1928- 2011). Regarded as one of America’s great 20th-century painters, Frankenthaler rose to prominence in the post-war period with her large-scale abstract expressionist paintings. Her subsequent work embraced Color

Paola Pivi at MAXXI. Untitled (donkey), 2003. Photo Hugo Glendinning, Courtesy Massimo De Carlo, Milan/London/Hong Kong.

Field, a style of abstract painting inspired by European modernism and characterised primarily by large fields of flat, solid colour stained into the canvas. The Rome exhibition, organised in parallel with a display of Frankenthaler’s work at the upcoming Venice Biennale, comprises 12 paintings spanning 1974 and 1983, all of which were inspired by the sea. Gagosian Gallery, Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel. 0642086498, www. gagosian.com.

ANDREA CALABRESI 21 Feb-30 March

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea hosts Sun, and Close Landscapes, an exhibition by Italian photographer Andrea Calabresi who uses analogue photo techniques for evocative effects. Calabresi’s latest project The Upper Half, is dedicated to the sun and follows an earlier project devoted to the moon, exhibited at MAC in 2014. The exhibition comprises analogue silver gelatin prints and images from his previous Close Landscapes series. Via di Monserrato 30, tel. 0668804621, www.majartecontemporanea.com. Wanted in Rome • March 2019 | 31

Ro Ro Ro

32 | March 2019 â&#x20AC;¢ Wanted in Rome

ZANELE MUHOLI 9 Feb-6 April

Galleria del Cembalo presents Nobody can love you more than you, an exhibition of about 20 photographic works by South African artist and self-proclaimed visual activist Zanele Muholi. Muholi, whose work focuses on race, gender and sexuality, says the aim of her research is “to rewrite a visual history of South Africa from the point of view of the black, lesbian and trans community so that the world knows our resistance and existence in a period in which there have never been so many hate crimes, in South Africa and beyond.” Using wigs, costumes and everyday objects, the artist accentuates her physical characteristics to reaffirm her identity, fixing the viewer with a steely stare. Largo della Fontanella di Borghese 19, tel. 0683796619, www.galleriadelcembalo.it.

SOLO IL DOVERE, OLTRE IL DOVERE 28 Jan-14 July

This fascinating but hard-hitting exhibition highlights the attitude and reaction of Italian diplomats in the face of the persecution of Italian and European Jews between the years 1938 and 1943. The exhibition is hosted at the Fondazione Museo della

Shoah, in the city’s Jewish Ghetto district, in collaboration with Italy’s ministry of foreign affairs. Through photographs, letters, maps and newspaper articles the exhibition reconstructs an era, beginning with changes that occurred within the ministry of foreign affairs and in its foreign network following the promulgation of the racial laws in 1938. Much of the material on display comes from the foreign ministry’s diplomatic archives and, for the large part, has never been published before. The exhibition highlights the efforts of numerous Italian diplomats to save Italian Jews residing abroad, reconstructing some of the most significant stories, both of the diplomats involved and those persecuted. Free entry. Sun-Thurs 10.00-17.00, Fri 10.0013.00. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 29, tel. 0668139598, www. museodellashoah.it.

VASARI PER BINDO ALTOVITI 25 Jan-30 June

A recently rediscovered painting by Giorgio Vasari (1511-1574) is on public display for the first time at Galleria Corsini. Cristo portacroce was painted in 1553 by Vasari, the Italian painter, architect, writer and historian, best known today for his masterful book Lives of the Most Excellent Painters, Sculptors, and Architects. The long-lost painting was rediscovered at an auction in Connecticut after Vasari expert Carlo Falciani recognised it from a drawing in Vasari’s archive. Commissioned by banker and patron of the arts Bindo Altoviti, the painting was subsequently bought by the House of Savoy before disappearing for centuries until its surprise reappearance in the US. Galleria Corsini, Via della Lungara 10, tel.06 68802323  , www. barberinicorsini.org.

CHANGE CONNECT CONTINUE 25 Jan-30 March

Robert Mapplethorpe at Galleria Corsini. Robert, Marcus Leatherdale, 1978. © Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill presents a group exhibition by Martin Creed, Giorgio Griffa and Tatsuo Miyajima, artists whose work “explores ideas of chance and order, of the apparent chaos of life

Zanele Muholi at Galleria del Cembalo. Basizeni II, Parktown.

and man’s efforts to make sense of it.” The gallery says the exhibited works “search for order while at the same time they accept fate and serendipity.” Japanese artist Tatsuo Miyajima uses LED counters, set at differing speeds and never showing a zero, to make installations expressing the interconnectivity of all things. Italian painter Giorgio Griffa believes that the rhythms of the universe – he includes those of music, poetry and mathematics are cornerstones of his practice as a painter. British artist, musician and algebra lover Martin Creed employs rhythm, repetition and incremental changes in his artistic and musical compositions. See cover this issue. Galleria Lorcan O’Neill, Vicolo Dei Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill. com.

JOINT IS OUT OF TIME 24 Jan-2 June

The Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna stages Joint is Out of Time, an exhibition described as a “new grafting which redefines the current staging of the collections” and features the works of seven contemporary international artists. Galleria Nazionale, Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, www.gallerianazionale.com. Wanted in Rome • March 2019 | 33

STILL SHOWING

open daily 10.00-19.00. Palazzo Rhinoceros, Via dei Cerchi 21, www. fondazionealdafendi-esperimenti.it.

S. Apollinare 8, tel. 06684851, www.museonazionaleromano. beniculturali.it.

DONNE: CORPO E IMMAGINE TRA SIMBOLO E RIVOLUZIONE

CONVERSATION PIECE | PART IV

Rome’s municipal modern art gallery highlights the evolution of the female image in art from the late 19th century up to the present day. The 100 works on display – including paintings, sculpture, photographs and video – reveal how women have been portrayed variously as objects of admiration and mystery or as angels and temptresses, until artists caught up with a more modern age in the 1960s. Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna, Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.galleriaartemodernaroma.it.

Under the title There is no longer any beauty except in the struggle, Fondazione Memmo presents Conversation Piece | Part IV, the latest installment in its cycle of exhibitions dedicated to Italian and foreign contemporary artists connected to Rome’s cultural academies. The exhibiting artists are Julian Rosenfeldt (German Academy), Rebecca Digne (French Academy), Invernomuto (American Academy), and Italian Marinella Senatore. Fondazione Memmo, Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.

ETRUSCHIFANO: MARIO SCHIFANO A VILLA GIULIA

MICHELANGELO’S CROUCHING BOY

IL CLASSICO SI FA POP

24 Jan-13 Oct

20 Dec-10 March

Michelangelo’s Crouching Boy, known as l’Adolescente in Italian, comes to Rome on loan from the Hermitage Museum in St Petersburg. The marble masterpiece is on display at the newly-opened Rhinoceros, home of the Fondazione Alda Fendi-Esperimenti near the Circus Maximus. Michelangelo’s 54-cm high work, created around 1530, returns to Italy for only the second time in 230 years, following its visit to the Uffizi in Florence in 2000. The statue made its way to Russia in 1787 after being purchased by Empress Catherine II. Free admission,

16 Dec-24 March

14 Dec-7 April

The Crypta Balbi and Palazzo Massimo host a joint immersive exhibition with lights, mirrors and video mapping dedicated to the long-established practice of selling artefacts from excavations and artistic reproductions as souvenirs. The show takes as its starting point the brisk trade done by Giovanni Trevisan, known as Volpato, who sold biscuit engravings, porcelain figurines and archaeological artefacts as souvenirs to Grand Tourists visiting Rome in the 18th century. Crypta Balbi, Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel. 066977671. Palazzo Massimo, Via

Solo il dovere, oltre il dovere at Fondazione Museo della Shoah. Skopje, March 1943. Yad Vashem Archive, Jerusalem.

13 Dec-10 March

The National Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia stages an exhibition of works by Italian postmodernist painter Mario Schifano on the 20th anniverary of his death. Schifano reinterpreted aspects of the Etruscan civilisation in his dynamic pop art style, characterised by bright colours surging out of dark backgrounds. Piazzale di Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063219698, www. villagiulia.beniculturali.it.

ROMA UNIVERSALIS 15 Nov-25 Aug

An exhibition organised by the Colosseum archaeological park hightlights the artistic and architecture legacy of the African Severan dynasty which ruled from 193 to 235 AD. The exhibition examines monuments and art dating from the era described as the “empire’s last period of greatness” before its decline. In addition to the Colosseum, the itinerary includes the Palatine Hill and Roman Forum, with particular emphasis on monuments linked to the emperors. Colosseum/Roman Forum/Palatine Hill.

DISCRETO CONTINUO 14 Dec-31 March

On the centenary of the birth of Alberto Bardi (1918-1984), the Casino dei Principi at Villa Torlonia celebrates the Italian artist with a major exhibition. Around 70 paintings document the development of Bardi’s artistic style over the final two decades of his life, from figurative to abstract. Musei di Villa Torlonia, tel. 060608, www. museivillatorlonia.it.

THE STREET. WHERE THE WORLD IS MADE 7 Dec-28 April

MAXXI hosts an exhibition that highlights the role of the street as

34 | March 2019 • Wanted in Rome

among the 1,023 Jews deported from Rome’s Ghetto district to Auschwitz concentration camp, from which he never returned. Jewish Museum of Rome, Via Catalana (Largo 16 Ottobre 1943). Museo Giovanni Barracco, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 168, www.museobarracco.it.

DREAM: L’ARTE INCONTRA I SOGNI 29 Sept-5 May Mario Schifano at Villa Giulia. Vasi.

a place of sharing and innovation, a source of inspiration for artists, architects and creatives, in areas ranging from street festivals to improvised cinema and street food. The exhibition features over 200 works by more than 140 artists whose architectural projects, photographs, site-specific interventions and videos form a street dozens of metres long. MAXXI Museo nazionale delle arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4A, www.maxxi.art.

DENTRO LA STRADA NOVISSIMA 7 Dec-28 April

Curated by the celebrated Italian architect Paolo Portoghesi, this exhibition is dedicated to the architectural history of the 1990s. Taking as its starting point the inaugural international architectural expo at the Venice Biennale, which opened on 27 July 1980, the exhibition presents archive documents, photographs and plans which heralded the greater role of the street in 1990s architecture. Museo nazionale delle arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4A, www.maxxi.art.

LUDWIG POLLAK 5 Dec-5 May

The Jewish Museum of Rome and the Museo di Scultura Antica Giovanni Barracco host a joint exhibition of antiques and archive material relating to the esteemed archaeologist and art dealer. The exhibition marks the 150th

anniversary of Pollak’s birth, in Prague in 1868, as well as the 80th anniversary of Italy’s racial laws, promulgated by the fascist regime to enforce racial discrimination, mainly against Italy’s Jews. Pollak is best remembered for important archaeological finds, including his extraordinary 1906 discovery of the missing Laocoön arm. On 16 October 1943 Pollak and his family were

The Chiostro del Bramante hosts a site-specific exhibition of dreamthemed art works, guiding viewers on a “physical, surreal, mental and dreamlike journey”, and completing the trilogy of shows begun with Love in 2016 and Enjoy last year. The international artists include major names such as Anselm Kiefer, Anish Kapoor and Bill Viola. Chiostro del Bramante, Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it. See other exhibitions on our website www.wantedinrome.com.

Donne: Corpo e immagine tra simbolo e rivoluzione at Galleria Arte Moderna. Il dubbio by Giacomo Balla.

Rendering of the new base of the Quadriennale di Roma.

ART NEWS PAPAL ARSENAL TO HOST ROME QUADRIENNALE

The headquarters of the Quadriennale di Roma, currently based at Villa Carpegna in the city's Aurelio district, will move to the former Papal Arsenal at Porta Portese. The building was once used for the construction and maintenance of the papal fleet, with access to the Ripa Grande port on the Tiber below. It was commissioned by Pope Clement XI and its design, by an unknown architect, was based on the larger papal arsenal at Civitavecchia, designed by Bernini and concluded by Carlo Fontana. The Rome complex opened for business in 1715 and remained in operation until the end of the 19th century when the building of the Tiber's muraglioni walls put an end to the old river port. The building will be used for offices as well as exhibitions and events related to the Rome Quadriennale, a major show to promote prevailing trends in contemporary Italian art, scheduled in 2020. The €8 million project, funded by the Italian culture ministry, is being overseen by Ostiense-based architectural and engineering firm Studio Insula which was also responsible for the overhaul of the ex-Mattatoio complex in Testaccio. The firm's plan forsees the covering of the buildings' open arches, probably with glass. Directed by Sarah Cosulich, the 17th Quadriennale will reportedly have an international dimension – a major departure for an event that has, traditionally, had Italian art as its focal point. The Quadriennale was first held in Rome in 1931 and its most recent edition, in 2016, was at the Palazzo delle Esposizioni. www.quadriennalediroma.org.

36 | March 2019 • Wanted in Rome

VATICAN DROPS WARHOL PLANS

The Vatican has reportedly cancelled its plans to host a major exhibition exploring the “spiritual side” of Pop art supremo Andy Warhol, according to Artnet News. The collaboration between Pittsburgh’s Andy Warhol Museum and the Vatican Museums, aimed at highlighting the impact of Catholicism on Warhol’s artistic vision, was billed to take place in 2019. This was first reported in an early 2018 interview with Vatican Museums director Barbara Jatta in The Art Newspaper. However the Vatican appears to have stalled its plans to celebrate Warhol, with Jatta citing a clash with projects in honour of Leonardo da Vinci to mark the 500th anniversary of the Renaissance master’s death, in a recent interview with online Catholic newspaper Crux.

NEW ART DIRECTOR AT AMERICAN ACADEMY IN ROME

The American Academy in Rome (AAR) has appointed scholar and curator Elizabeth Rodini as its next arts director. Rodini will begin her three-year term on 1 July, succeeding Peter Benson Miller who will remain as curator for the academy’s upcoming 125th anniversary year. Rodini, who comes to Rome from Johns Hopkins University in Baltimore, is described by AAR director John Ochsendorf as “an accomplished curator of contemporary art and a scholar of Italian art history.” www.aarome.org. Andy Devane

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Sisters Katia and Marielle Labeque play Bruch's concerto for two pianos at S. Cecilia, conducted by Semyon Bychkov.

four other composers Rachmaninov, Skriabin, Liszt (March) and Schumann (on 28 April). Sala Casella, Via Flaminia 118, www.filarmonicaromana.org.

ACCADEMIA S. CECILIA SHOSTAKOVICH LENINGRAD SYMPHONY 28 Feb-2 March

CLASSICAL RoME

Telari). Sala Casella, Via Flaminia 118, www.filarmonicaromana.org.

ACCADEMIA FILARMONICA AFFARE VIVALDI 7 March ROMANA Ensemble Modo GIOVANI TALENTI IN CONCERTO 9 Feb-6 April

As the heading suggests this is a series of concerts to promote young Italian artists, winners of the scholarships promoted by the Società Umanitaria di Milano. There are two concerts (2 March, 6 April) dedicated to a pianoviolin duo (Giulia Scilla and Roberta Sala and soloist Federico Gad Crema). Sala Casella, Via Flaminia 118, www. filarmonicaromana.org.

LA LIBERTA RIGOROSA 10 Feb-14 April

The Filarmonica is presenting this unusual series of lessons for the first time, on the theme of composition and improvisation in the work of several key composers, Mozart and Beethoven, Chopin and Liszt and Ravel, Bartok, Gershwin and Duke Ellington. Sala Casella, Via Flaminia 118, www.filarmonicaromana.org.

ASSOLI

22 Feb-12 April

This annual series of concerts is dedicated to young Italian soloists and contemporary composers. The concert on 8 March focuses on music for flute (soloist Bianca Fiorito) and piano (Mario Germani). On 29 March it is the turn of the violin (Rebecca Raimondi) and piano (Alessandro Viale) and on 12 April clarinet (Alice Cortegiani) and accordion (Samuele

38 | March 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Antiquo plays early music by Vivaldi inspired by the novel Affare Vivaldi by Federico Maria Sardelli, the founder of the ensemble and one of the greatest experts on the life and music of the Venetian composer. Sardelli is also the main conductor of the Accademia Barocca di S. Cecilia. Teatro Argentina, Largo Argentina, www.filarmonicaromana.org.

ANDREA BACCHETTI SUONA BACH 24 March

Italian pianist Andrea Bacchetti plays music by J.S. Bach, including his English and French suites. Sala Casella, Via Flaminia 118, www. filarmonicaromana.org.

SERGEI KYRLOV AND ITAMAR GOLAN 28 March

Sergei Kyrilov violin and Itama Golan piano play music by Mozart, Schubert and Beethoven. Teatro Argentina, Largo Argentina, www. filarmonicaromana.org.

CHOPIN AND LISZT 31 March

Pianists completing their studies at the S. Cecilia conservatory perform at the Accademia Filarmonica Romana in their annual concert. This month it is the turn of Federico Nicoletta. In this series, which started in January, music by Chopin is compared with that of

Andres Orozco-Estrada conducts the S. Cecilia orchestra performing Shostakovich’s Leningrad (7th) symphony and Petrassi’s Noche Oscura. The Leningrad symphony, the longest and most famous work by the Russian composer, was premiered in Leningrad in August 1942 when the city was still under bombardment by Nazi forces. More than 600,000 people died in the siege of Leningrad which lasted until 1944. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

EMANUEL AX 4-9 March

In the first concert on 4 March Emanuel Ax performs a solo recital of music by Brahms, Ravel, Schumann and Chopin. On 7-9 March he performs with the S. Cecilia Orchestra conducted by Sakari Oramo music by Sibelius (Snöfrid and symphony no 1) and Beethoven’s no 1 piano concerto. Ax often performs with Leonidas Kavakos and Yo-Yo Ma and is a committed supporter of contemporary composers with works written for him by John Adams, Christopher Rouse and Melinda Wagner. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

RADICI - GIOVANNI SOLLIMA 12-13 March

Giovanni Sollima and the group of young cellists from Italy, the Netherlands and Spain make up the Music Up Close Ensemble which performs music from different traditions – Armenian, Macedonian, African, Brazilian – seemingly far apart today but all with common roots. Sollima, who has been termed a “post minimalist composer” has worked with Patti Smith and promotes cross-cultural exchange between institutions with Silkroad, a project started by Yo-Yo Ma. Teatro

Studio Borgna, Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

PINNOCK, PAHUD, MANSON IN HOMAGE TO BACH 13 March

Three great soloists, Trevor Pinnock on the harpsichord, Emmanuel Pahud on the flute and Jonathan Manson on the cello come together to play six works by Bach. Sala Sinopoli, Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

JOHN ELIOT GARDINER 14-16 March

John Eliot Gardiner, one of Britain’s foremost conductors and experts on Bach and baroque music, conducts the S. Cecilia Orchestra playing two works by Berlioz (Carnevale Romano and Aroldo in Italia) as well as Dvorak’s symphony no 7. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

LUDOVICO EINAUDI 17-18 March

Pianist and composer Ludovico Einaudi performs his own works. He is one of the celebrities of Italian music and his website shows that his two concerts in Rome, as well as many of the others on his European tour (Amsterdam, Brussels, Lisbon, Dresden, Frankfurt, Paris, Zurich) are already sold out. Sala Petrassi, Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www. auditorium.com.

YEFIM BRONFMAN 19 March

Pianist Yefim Bronfman plays a recital of music by Schumann, Debussy and Schubert. The Chicago Sun Times reviewed a Bronfman concert with the Chicago Symphony Orchestra directed by Riccardo Mutti writing: “Listening to Bronfman play Beethoven is like being in a crowded room when a profound conversationalist begins to speak and everyone just steps back to listen with rapt attention.” Listening to Bronfman play even very familiar pieces gives them a completely new meaning. As he himself has said he

prepares pieces for each concert as though he had never played them before, leaving behind his old habits to make each performance a new experience. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

KATIA AND MARIELLE LABEQUE 21-23 March

The Labeque sisters play Bruch’s concerto for two pianos with the S. Cecilia Orchestra conducted by Semyon Bychkov. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

ISTITUZIONE UNIVERSITARIO DEI CONCERTI GOMALAN BRASS QUINTET 5 March

This Italian brass quintet plays eight pieces specially composed for brass instruments, including the world premiere of Donato Semeraro’s Essenza composed in 2018. Among other things Semeraro composes and arranges music for the band of the Guardia della Finanza. Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna Università la Sapienza, Piazza Aldo Moro, www.concertiiuc.it.

ALEXANDER LONQUICH 9 March

Pianist Alexander Lonquich plays a variety of music from Beethoven to Janacek. Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna Università la Sapienza, Piazza Aldo Moro, www.concertiiuc.it.

EDMAR CASTANEDA GABRIELE MIRABASSI 12 March

Edmar Castaneda on the Colombia harp plays jazz along with clarinetist Gabriele Mirabassi. Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna Università la Sapienza, Piazza Aldo Moro, www.concertiiuc.it.

CAROLIN WIDMANN DENES VARJON 16 March

Violinist Carolin Widmann, who often focuses on early 20th-

century music, plays Schumann, Debussy, Veress in her recitals in Rome, Bologna and Udine. Not only does she perform with major international orchestras and conductors but she has also worked with the dance company Sasha Waltz and has designed projects for museums and sports stadiums. Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna Università la Sapienza, Piazza Aldo Moro, www. concertiiuc.it.

FREDERIC RZEWSKI 26 March

Variations on Sergio Ortega’s song The People United will Never be Defeated, composed in 1975. Rzewski’s works are often inspired by political and social themes such as the one by the Chilean musician Ortega who also composed the Salvatore Allende’s electoral song Venceremos. Rzewski formed the Musica Elettronica Viva in Rome in 1966 along with Alvin Curran and Richard Teitelbaum. He has composed music for orchestra, chamber ensemble, stage as well as choral and vocal works. Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna Università la Sapienza, Piazza Aldo Moro, www.concertiiuc.it.

BRUNO CANINO 30 March

To celebrate the pianist’s 60 years with the Istituzione Universitario dei Concerti. He plays music by Haydn, Mozart, Clementi, Copland, Cage and Corea. Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna Università la Sapienza, Piazza Aldo Moro, www.concertiiuc.it.

OTHER VENUES

Some of Rome’s English speaking churches, such as St Paul’s within the Walls, All Saints’ Anglican church, Ponte S. Angelo Methodist church and the Oratorio Caravita also have concerts and opera recitals. S. Agnese in Agone in Piazza Navona and Palazzo Doria Pamphilj are two other places that often offer concerts. The Oratorio Gonfalone has concerts every Thursday evening in the beautiful little church in Via del Gonfalone 32, just off Via Giulia.

Wanted in Rome • March 2019 | 39

Wanted in Rome | December 2017

Nick Mason's Saucerful of Secrets performs for Rock in Roma this summer.

NICK MASON’S SAUCERFUL OF SECRETS 16 July

Tickets are on sale for an open-air summer concert by Saucerful of Secrets, the band of Pink Floyd drummer Nick Mason, in the Cavea venue at the Auditorium Parco della Musica. The band, which features singer Gary Kemp of Spandau Ballet, will perform the pioneering early psychedelic work of Pink Floyd, including tracks from the Syd Barrett era. For details see Rock in Roma website, www. band’s signature sound combines rockinroma.com. Auditorium Parco repetitive rhythms with catchy della Musica, Via Pietro de Coubertin 26 March melodies and simplified lyrics. For 30, www.auditorium.com. Tickets are on sale for a concert by tickets see TicketOne website, www. John Mayall, the legendary English ticketone.com. Teatro Romano di blues singer, guitarist, organist Ostia Antica. 21 July and songwriter, performing at the Thom Yorke has been confirmed Auditorium Parco della Musica. on the 2019 line-up of the Roma Mayall’s musical career spans half Summer Fest, performing for the first 29 June a century and he is best known for being the founder of John Mayall & the Tickets are on sale for a concert by time at the Auditorium Parco della Bluesbreakers, whose ever-changing Take That at the Auditorium Parco Musica in Rome on 21 July. Yorke line-up included some of the world’s della Musica on 29 June, to celebrate will perform tracks from his work most famous blues and blues-rock the band’s 30th anniversary tour. as a solo-artist, from albums such as musicians. The group finally disbanded The concert, part of the Roma The Eraser and Tomorrow’s Modern in 2008 and now Mayall performs with Summer Fest programme, will Boxes, and Atoms For Peace’s a new backing band. Auditorium Parco feature three of the British band’s Amok, alongside longtime producer / della Musica, Via Pietro de Coubertin original members: Gary Barlow, collaborator Nigel Godrich and visual Howard Donald and Mark Owen. artist Tarik Barri. The English multi30, www.auditorium.com. The group was phenomenally instrumentalist is best known as the successful in the 1990s, securing lead singer and main songwriter of 12 number one singles and eight the alternative rock band Radiohead 8 April number one albums in the UK, with which burst onto the international The Auditorium Parco della Musica hits such as Could It Be Magic and scene in 1992 with the massive hit hosts a concert by Low, an American Relight My Fire. Auditorium Parco single Creep. Auditorium Parco della indie rock group formed in Minnesota della Musica, Via Pietro de Coubertin Musica, Via Pietro de Coubertin 30, in 1993. The band is known for its 30, www.auditorium.com. www.auditorium.com. impressive live performances and music characterised by slow tempos and minimalist arrangements. Tickets for Thom Yorke's summer concert have Auditorium Parco della Musica, gone on sale. Photo Ebru Yildiz. Via Pietro de Coubertin 30, www. auditorium.com.

ROCK, POP, JAZz JOHN MAYALL

THOM YORKE

TAKE THAT

LOW

KRAFTWERK 27-28 June

Kraftwerk fans in Rome can look forward to two concerts by the pioneering German electronic musicians this summer. The innovative German group will perform two nights in a row for Rock in Roma in the ancient setting of the Teatro Romano at Ostia Antica. Since forming in Düsseldorf in 1970, Kraftwerk has had a profound influence on a new generation of musicians, particularly those working in electronic music. The Wanted in Rome • March 2019 | 41

Woolf Works by Wayne McGregor debuts in Italy at La Scala on 7 April.

DANCE

TEATRO OLIMPICO

MILAN

WOOLF WORKS

TEATRO ALLA SCALA

This is the Italian premiere of the magnificently lyrical work by Wayne McGregor with music by Max Richter based on three works by Virginia Woolf, Mrs Dalloway (I now, I then), Orlando (Becomings) and The Waves (Tuesday). It will be danced by Alessandra Ferri and Federico Bonelli on 7, 10, 12, 14 and 20 April. It was McGregor’s first full-length work for the Royal Ballet Covent Garden, first performed in 2015. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.

WINTERREISE BY SCHUBERT

24 Jan-9 March

A world premiere with choreography by Angelin Preljocaj together with select members of La Scala ballet company. This is Preljocaj’s first specially commissioned work for La Scala. He usually only creates works for his own company, with a few exceptions such as the Paris Opera and the New York City Ballet. The work is with a smaller group of dancers than the usual La Scala repertory. Preljocaj believes Schubert’s Winterreise song cycle is ideal for the sort of intimacy he envisages between the dancers, musicians and audience, although smaller works have not usually had much success at La Scala, where the audience prefers large theatrical choreographies. Winterreise was first transformed into a ballet by John Neumeier for the Hamburg ballet company in 2001. Christian Spuck came up with a new, more abstract and universal interpretation of the Schubert classic for the Zurich ballet in autumn 2018. The Teatro della Scala ballet corp and Thomas Tatzi bassbaritone and James Vaughan piano. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.

LA SCALA BALLET CORPS 5-7 March

The theatre’s ballet corp dances The Kingdom of Heaven from La Bayadere, The Middle, somewhat Elevated with choreography by William Forsythe and Présentation by Frédéric Olivieri. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.

42 | March 2019 • Wanted in Rome

extra music by 79D. Preljocaj’s 2008 choreography is not a sugary Disneylike version of the story but a rather tough and sometimes violent and shocking view of the adult world, but one where love wins out in the end. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it.

7-20 April

ROME TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA PHILIP GLASS NIGHT 29 March-3 April

Choreographies to three Philip Glass pieces, Hearts and Arrows with choreography by Benjamin Millepied, Glass pieces choreography by Jerome Robbins and Nuit Blanche with choreography by Sebastien Bertaud. This is a new Teatro dell’Opera di Roma production. The director of the theatre’s ballet school, Eleonora Abbagnato, has recently been confirmed for another three years in the post. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it.

BLANCHE NEIGE ANGELIN PRELJOKAJ 3-9 May

The choreography is by Angelin Preljocaj with the ballet corp of the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma. The music is a recorded version of parts of Mahler’s nine symphonies with

MOMIX ALICE

20 Feb-3 March

The world premiere of Moses Pendleton’s new work Alice inspired by Alice Through the Looking Glass by Lewis Carroll. In collaboration with the Accademia Filarmonica for the 2019 Festival Internazionale della Danza di Roma. Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www. teatroolimpico.it.

TEATRO VASCELLO GISELLE BALLETTO DI ROMA 26 Feb-3 March

This modern interpretation of the classical 19th-century ballet is by the Israeli choreographer Serussi Sahar in act 1, where the emphasis is on the individual, and the Swiss Chris Haring in act 2, where the focus moves to the group. It has been part of the Balletto di Roma repertoire since 2016. Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it. The Teatro dell'Opera di Roma stages Angelin Preljocaj's Blanche Neige in May.

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Robert Carsen's interpretation of Orfeo ed Euridice opens at Teatro dell'Opera di Roma on 15 March.

TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA ORFEO ED EURIDICE BY GLUCK 15-22 March

opera MILAN TEATRO ALLA SCALA LA TRAVIATA BY VERDI 11 Jan-17 March

Conducted by Myung-Whun Chung and staged by Liliana Cavani with a top-class cast of Marina Rebeka alternating with Sonya Yoncheva as Violetta, Francesco Meli and rising French tenor Benjamin Bernheim as Alfredo, and Leo Nucci and Placido Domingo as Giorgio Germont. Bernheim debuted in Verdi’s Requiem at the Royal Opera House conducted by Antonio Pappano in October 2018 to excellent reviews. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

LA CENERENTOLA BY ROSSINI 10 Feb-5 April

Ottavio Dantone conducts the 1973 production by Jean-Pierre Ponnelle. The young French mezzo-soprano Marianne Crebassa makes her Rossini debut at La Scala in the role of Angelina. Her first solo album Oh Boy, in which she explores trouser roles in Mozart and French operas (arias for young men – once sung by castrati – and now by women) has received considerable acclaim. She sang the part of Angelina at the Paris Opera at the end of 2018. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

KHOVANSHCHINA BY MUSSORGSKY 27 Feb-29 March

Conducted by Valery Gergiev and directed by Mario Martone.

44 | March 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Mikhail Petrenko sings the role of Ivan Chovanski (he had excellent reviews when he sang the bass part at New York’s Met in 2012) and Ekaterina Shemenchuk takes the part of Marfa. It is a new La Scala production with the participation of students from Milan’s opera academy. The opera, which was not finished when Mussorgsky died in 1881, is based on the Moscow uprising of 1682 and has also been staged against the background of the Russian Revolution. RimskyKorsakov completed and revised the work after Mussorgsky’s death and it was then re-worked several times, also by Stravinsky, until the Shostakovich 1959 version, which is the one that is usually performed. Gergiev revived a historically faithfully version of the opera at the Marinsky Theatre in the 1990s so it will be interesting to see what he and Italian director Martone make of the work in this La Scala production. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.

MANON LESCAUT BY PUCCINI 31 March-27 April

Riccardo Chailly conducts this new La Scala production of Puccini’s opera, which was first staged in 1893 in Turin, with David Pountney as director. Pountney, who is known as a director of little-known operas or new versions of classical repertoire, has not directed Manon Lescaut before. Maria José Siri sings the part of Manon and Marcelo Alvarez that of Des Grieux for most of the performances. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.

Conducted by Gianluca Capuano and directed by Robert Carsen this is a new production of Gluck’s most popular opera, in conjunction with the Theatre des Champs-Elysées and the Canadian Opera company with Carlo Vistoli as Orfeo, Mariangela Sicilia as Euridice and Emöke Baráth as Amore. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it.

THE MERRY WIDOW 14-20 April

Franz Lehar’s opera is conducted by Constantin Trinks and directed by Damiano Michieletto. It is a new production in conjunction with La Fenice in Venice and is also a Fabbrica project for young opera singers training with the Rome opera house. Anthony MichaelsMoore takes the lead role of Baron Mirko Zeta with Adriana Ferfecka as Valencienne and Naja Machantaf as Hanna. Michaels-Moore, baritone, is the first British singer to have won the Luciano Paverotti international voice competition. The last time he sang at Rome’s opera house was in Benjamin Britten’s Curlew River in 2013. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it. The French mezzo soprano, Marianne Crebassa (pictured here on her album Oh Boy) debuts at La Scala in the role of Angelina in Rossini's Cenerentola.

Settimo Cielo at Teatro India.

theatre PRISCILLA: LA REGINA DEL DESERTO 7-31 March

Based on the smash-hit movie Priscilla, Queen of the Desert, this Tony Award-winning musical follows the story of three friends who hop aboard a battered old bus in search of love and friendship. The production features more than 500 costumes and a soundtrack that includes hits such as I Will Survive, It’s Raining Men and Go West. The Italian version of the musical has been seen by 350,000 spectators. Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231, www.teatrobrancaccio.it.

SETTIMO CIELO 19-31 March

Teatro India stages Settimo Cielo, an Italian adaptation of Cloud 9 by British playwright Caryl Churchill, directed by Giorgina Pi. The first act is set in

ST PATRICK'S DAY IN ROME 17 March

This year St Patrick’s Day falls on a Sunday meaning that it will be a weekend of celebrations in honour of Ireland’s patron saint. Festivities begin at 19.00 on 16 March with the 28th edition of the Celtic Ball, Rome’s most important social occasion in Irish circles. The annual black-tie ball, which is being held at Hotel Parco dei Principi, is described as a “night to celebrate Ireland, with friends old and new” by Irish Club of Rome president Helen Harrington. The evening includes a six-course meal, live music

British colonial Africa in the Victorian era, the second in a London park in 1979. However, between the acts only 25 years pass for the characters. The characters also alternate roles between the two acts. The play uses controversial portrayals of sexuality and obscene language, and establishes a parallel between colonial and sexual oppression. In Italian. Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman, tel. 0687752210, www.teatrodiroma.net.

NOVE

19-24 March

Although there are 18 characters in this production there are only two actors – a man and a woman – who are faced with different situations and relationships between past, present and future. Written by Edoardo Erba, the show comprises nine 10-minute comedies with an unexpected final twist to the plot. In Italian. Teatro Vittoria, Piazza S. Maria Liberatrice 10, Testaccio, tel. 065781960, www. teatrovittoria.it.

ROME’S COMEDY CLUB 29 MARCH

Rome’s Comedy Club holds an evening of stand-up comedy in English on the last Friday of every month at a venue in the Ostiense district. The March lineup includes club founder Marsha De Salvatore as MC alongside Edoardo Ferrari, Devo Sullivan Sinnott, Erik Bolner, Mark Hannan and Konrad K. Schubert. The €15 entrance fee includes aperitivo, a beer or glass of wine. Doors open at 20.00, with the show starting at 21.30. Bookings (by text only, no calls) via Whatsapp and dancing until the wee hours, with a raffle in aid of the city’s Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre. St Patrick’s Day is marked officially on Sunday 17 March at 10.30 with a Mass for Lá Fhéile Pádraig, which this year will be celebrated by Bishop Brian Farrell at St Patrick’s church on Via Boncompagni 31. The Mass is always well-attended by the city’s Irish community and friends of Ireland, who unite in a nostalgic rendition of Hail Glorious, St Patrick. This year will be the first St Patrick’s Day in Rome for Ireland’s new ambassador to the Holy See Derek Hannon. Later that

3397514140 or email makairoma@ gmail.com. Makai Surf and Tiki bar, Via dei Magazzini Generali, 4/a/b/c.

MAGGIE ‘N’ BRIGID 2-7 April

Wonderwall Entertainment presents the world premiere production of an original English-language play, written by Shane Harnett and directed by Michael Fitzpatrick. Dubliners Maggie and Brigid rekindle their friendship after decades by travelling to Rome to see the pope. The two women set off on a road trip that defines who they are, strengthening a friendship forged by tenderness, venom and humour. 2-5 April 20.30. 6-7 April 17.30. To book tickets contact wonderwallenter@gmail.com or tel. 3478248661. Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1 (Piazza Mazzini).

GIUDIZIO UNIVERSALE: MICHELANGELO AND THE SECRETS OF THE SISTINE CHAPEL

Billed as an “extraordinary journey”, this cutting-edge production immerses the audience in the world of Michelangelo’s masterpiece in the Sistine Chapel, through a mixture of live performances and spectacular stage effects. The production involves the history of art narrated through a mix of technology and live entertainment. Created in consultation with the Vatican Museums and with music by Sting, the 60-minute show features immersive 270-degree 3D projections and is in both Italian and English. Auditorium della Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4, www.giudiziouniversale.com. evening, the Colosseum is expected to be bathed once again in green lights as part of Tourism Ireland’s international Global Greening initiative, now in its tenth year. If you plan to raise a toast to St Patrick with a pint of Guinness over the weekend, some of the pubs most favoured by the capital’s Irish expats include the Druid’s Den, the Fiddler’s Elbow, Finnegan’s and Scholars Lounge. All of these bars will be screening the final Six Nations matches including the Rome showdown between France and Italy, whose coach is currently Italy’s best known Irishman, Conor O’Shea. Wanted in Rome • March 2019 | 45

ACADEMIES

exhibition dedicated to the work of French art duo Anne Patrick Poirier, the husband and wife who have worked together for more than four decades. The exhibition will feature the sculptors’ “mysterious cities” and reconstructed ruins, both “archaeological or imaginary,” displayed in various areas of Villa Medici. The artists have a long association with Rome: they were fellows of the French Academy from 1969 to 1971, during the directorship of Balthus. French Academy in Rome - Villa Medici, Viale della Trinità dei Monti 1, tel. 0667611, www.villamedici.it.

GERMAN ACADEMY OF ROME 31 Jan-15 March

Cinque Mostre at the American Academy in Rome. Invernomuto, Portrait, 2018, Photo Jim C. Nedd.

AMERICAN ACADEMY IN ROME 20 Feb-31 March

Cinque Mostre is an annual exhibition of curatorial projects by the Rome Prize winners, Italian Fellows and invited artists at the American Academy in Rome. Curated by Ilaria Gianni, this year’s event is held under the collective title Δx Displacement and comprises collaborative projects installed throughout the academy’s McKim, Mead & White Building. The project unites works by visual artists, architects, designers, writers, archeologists, art historians and conservators, all of whom respond to the various interpretations of displacement, questioning the “poetics of the ordinary, unsettling a sense of belonging, and disrupting conventional relationships.” Gallery open Sat-Sun 16.00-19.00. American Academy in Rome, Via Angelo Masina 5, tel. 0658461, www.aarome.org.

BRITISH SCHOOL AT ROME 15-23 March

The British School at Rome hosts its annual March Mostra of works by current Fine Arts award-

46 | March 2019 • Wanted in Rome

holders. Exhibiting artists include Anna Brass, Phoebe Boswell, Jade Ching-yuk Ng, Kate Mackeson, Lucy Meyle, Dan Popa and Dillwyn Smith. The exhibition can be visited Mon–Sat 16.30–19.00. British School at Rome, Via Gramsci 61, tel. 063264939, www.bsr.ac.uk.

CASA DI GOETHE 9 NOV-28 APRIL

The Casa di Goethe examines the travels in Italy of Joseph Beuys (1921-1986) through a series of “objects, posters, postcards, photographs, invitations, memories and signs of affection” relating to the mutifaceted German artist. The material, discovered in antiques fairs and curiosity shops, relates to Beuy’s exhibitions and happenings in Capri, Naples, Foggia, Rome, Venice and Bolognano. Casa di Goethe, Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www.casadigoethe.it.

FRENCH ACADEMY 1 March-12 May

The French Academy of Rome at Villa Medici presents Romamor, an

The German Academy of Rome Villa Massimo presents cartone – plastica – oro, an exhibition by Wolfgang Ellenrieder. As the title suggests, the Munich-based artist fills the academy’s gallery with large installations using materials such as cardboard, plastic and gold leaf. Accademia Tedesca Roma Villa Massimo, Largo di Villa Massimo 1-2, tel. 064425931, www.villamassimo.de.

INSTITUTO CERVANTES 7 Feb-30 March

Rome’s Cervantes Institute in Piazza Navona presents Las formas del alma, a group exhibition comprising 109 works by 14 Spanish artists. The works on display delve into the concept of the soul, from spirituality to rituals and dreamlike visions. The exhibition includes painting, sculpture, photography, video and installations. Entry is free and the show can be visited Wed-Sat 16.00-20.00. Piazza Navona 91, www.roma.cervantes.es.

JAPANESE CULTURAL INSTITUTE 1-30 MARCH

Guided tours of the Japanese Cultural Institute’s gardens are open to small groups of people during the mornings and afternoons on Tues, Thurs, Fri, and on Sat mornings. The visits are free and bookings must be reserved in advance, tel. 0694844655. Istituto Giapponese di Cultura, Via Antonio Gramsci 74, www.jfroma.it.

IRISH FILM FESTA 27-31 March

Black 47, starring James Frecheville, will be screened at this year's Irish Film Festa.

FESTIVALS ROMA WHISKY FESTIVAL

LIBRI COME

This two-day event showcases a vast range of whisky, from well-known to rare, and includes tastings and masterclasses by industry experts. Now in its eighth year, the whisky festival also promotes traditional Scottish fare such as shortbread, salmon and jams displayed alongside Italian delicacies. The festival takes place at the Salone delle Fontane in the EUR district. For details see website, www. romawhiskyfestival.it.

The tenth edition of Rome’s annual festival devoted to books and reading takes place at the Auditorium Parco della Musica under the title Libertà. In the company of Italian and international writers, the festival examines the role of “freedom” in modern writing, with conferences, interviews, lectures, workshops and readings. For programme details see website, www. auditorium.com. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Pietro De Coubertin 30, tel. 0680241281.

2-3 March

14-17 March

Italy faces France in the Six Nations on 16 March.

The 12th edition of the IRISH FILM FESTA, the Rome festival dedicated to Irish cinema, returns to its usual venue, the Casa del Cinema in Villa Borghese. In addition to a programme of films including Black 47, a dramatic tale set in Ireland during the Great Famine, and documentaries such as Bog Graffiti by veteran documentary-maker Bob Quinn, the festival includes special guests from the world of Irish cinema who give public interviews and masterclasses. This year’s guests include Irish-American actor and author Karl Geary, and Irish director Hugh O’Conor who presents a photographic exhibition featuring portraits of 25 colleagues. Created and directed by Susanna Pellis, the festival is organised in collaboration with the Irish Film Institute with the patronage of the embassy of Ireland in Italy. All films are screened in their original language versions with Italian subtitles. Entry is free. At the time of going to print the full programme was not available, for details see website www. irishfilmfesta.org. Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1 (Villa Borghese), tel. 06423601.

9 February before taking on reigning Six Nations champions Ireland on 24 February (after this edition went to press). For details see Six Nations website, www.sixnationsrugby.com.

ROME MARATHON 7 April

SPORT SIX NATIONS RUGBY IN ROME 16 March

The Italian rugby team match against France on 16 March, the last tournament. Italy lost

plays its third and final home at Rome's Stadio Olimpico day of the 2019 Six Nations 15-26 to Wales in Rome on

Registration is open for the 25th edition of the 42km Maratona di Roma, which begins and ends at the Colosseum, and takes place on Sunday 7 April. The time limit for crossing the finish line is seven hours, and anyone who fails to reach the halfway mark within three and a half hours will be required to give up. Those who last the distance however will be rewarded with a medal, a goody bag and a foil wrap to stay warm. In addition to the main event there is the non-competitive “Stracittadina” 5-km fun run in the Circus Maximus area. For full details including registration see marathon website, www. maratonadiroma.it. Wanted in Rome • March 2019 | 47

lassical lassical

The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a definitive list of all the music that is available in the city. The following is a list of the main musical There are also concerts in many of the associations in Rome but it is not a definitive churches and sometimes in the museums. list of all the music that is available in the city. There are also concerts in many of the Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della churches and sometimes in the museums. Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Auditorium Conciliazione, ViaP. de della Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Accademia Filarmonica Teatro Auditorium Parco della Romana, Musica, Viale P. de Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro starts on 15 Oct Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season concerts Parco della Musica. The startsat onAuditorium 15 Oct newAccademia season startsS. on 5Cecilia, Oct www.santacecilia.it. All concerts Universitaria at Auditorium Parco della Musica. Istituzione dei Concerti, AulaThe newUniversità season starts on 5 Oct www.concertiiuc.it Magna, la Sapienza, Istituzione Universitaria deiGonfalone Concerti,32a, Aula Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it www.oratoriogonfalone.com

Oratorio delMethodist Gonfalone, Via delPiazza Gonfalone RomeConcerts, Church, Ponte32a, www.oratoriogonfalone.com S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it RomeConcerts, Piazza Ponte Roma Sinfonietta, Methodist AuditoriumChurch, Ennio Morricone, S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com

Roma Auditorium Roma Tre Sinfonietta, Orchestra, some concertsEnnio are atMorricone, Teatro Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others at Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are are at Teatro the Aula Magna, Piazza Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, 8, Palladium, Bartolomeo Romano Universita Roma Tre, Via while Ostienze teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, others234, are at www.r30.org the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Tre,festivals Via Ostienze 234, There are oftenRoma concerts, and opera www.r30.org recitals in several churches in Rome. often concerts, festivals and153, opera All There Saints' are Anglican Church, Via Babuino recitals in several churches in Rome. www.allsaintsrome.org All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. www.allsaintsrome.org Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7 Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com

Oratorio del Caravita, Caravita 7 the St Paul's Within the Walls,Via Viadella Nazionale and corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the S. Agnese Sagrestia del Borromini, corner ofin ViaAgone, Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it Piazza Navona S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Palazzo PiazzaDoria NavonaPamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum Serenades by Night Dinner throughout and Opera dinner afterwards. Viawith del Corso 305, the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum www.doriapamphilj.com and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com Jan 2019 • Wanted Rome 5048 |48 Oct 2018 •2019 Wanted in in Rome | |March • Wanted in Rome

MUSIC MUSIC THEATR THEATRE CINEMA CINEMA VENUES VENUES

MUSIC THEATRE CINEMA DANCE OPERA

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The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wantedshow in Rome website for The following cinemas movies in English weekly updates. or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for Adriano, Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 weeklyPiazza updates. Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 0686391361 Barberini, Piazza BarberiniMastroianni 24-26, 1, tel. Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello 0686391361 tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it Casa del Mastroianni Cinema deiCinema, Piccoli,Largo Viale Marcello della Pineta 15, tel.1, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it 068553485 Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 068553485 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 066861068 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 066861068 Odeon, Piazza Stefano 22, tel. Nuovo Sacher, LargoJacini Ascianghi 1, 0686391361 tel. 065818116 Space Moderno, Piazza della 44, tel. Odeon, Piazza Stefano JaciniRepubblica 22, tel. 0686391361 06892111 Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebec06892111 chini 3-5, tel. 06892111 Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111

ddance oopera p pop r ock r ance

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano www.teatrovascello.it 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it

pera

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

ock

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Concert venues ranging from major pop and Alexanderplatz, 9, tel. 0683775604 rock groups to Via jazzOstia and acoustic gigs. www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org Angelo Mai Via Atlantico delle Terme di Atlantico, VialeAltrove, dell’Oceano 271d, Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it

Atlantico, Viale Atlantico Auditorium Parcodell’Oceano della Musica, Viale 271d, P. de tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com Auditorium della Viale de Casa del Jazz, Parco Viale di PortaMusica, Ardeatina 55,P.tel. Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com 06704731, www.casajazz.it

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

heatre heatre

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net www.teatrobelli.it Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobelli.it www.teatrobrancaccio.it Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatrobrancaccio.it www.teatroghione.it Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. www.teatroghione.it 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net

Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com Lanificio 159,ViaVia di Pietralata 159, Live Alcazar, Cardinale Merry del Valtel. 14, 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com Live Alcazar, Merry del 35, Val 14, Monk Club, Via ViaCardinale Giuseppe Mirri tel. tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com 0664850987, www.monkroma.it Monk Club, ViaPiazzale Giuseppe Mirri 35,1, tel. PalaLottomatica, dello Sport tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it

PalaLottomatica, Piazzale Sport 1, tel. Rock in Roma, Via Appiadello Nuova 1245, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it www.teatrosangenesio.it Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsiwww.teatrosangenesio.it stina.it Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.ilsistina.it www.teatrovascello.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Vittoria,www.teatrovascello.it Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. tel. 065898031, 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it 4951 | Jan 2019 • Wanted in Rome | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome

ance

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

pera

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

ock

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Atlantico, Viale Atlantico Auditorium Parcodell’Oceano della Musica, Viale 271d, P. de tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com Auditorium della Viale de Casa del Jazz, Parco Viale di PortaMusica, Ardeatina 55,P.tel. Coubertin,www.casajazz.it tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com 06704731,

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

heatre heatre

Monk Club, ViaPiazzale Giuseppe Mirri 35,1, tel. PalaLottomatica, dello Sport tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it PalaLottomatica, Piazzale Sport 1, tel. Rock in Roma, Via Appiadello Nuova 1245, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

CMY

Mater Dei SpA - Dir. San.: Dr. G. Cervelli - Aut. Reg. Lazio n. D0111 del 17-03-03

ddance oopera p pop r ock r

Mater Dei SpA - Dir. San.: Dr. G. Cervelli - Aut. Reg. Lazio n. D0111 del 17-03-03

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WANTED junior inROME Photo by Alina McInerney, grade 9, age 14, from Liana Miuccio’s Digital Photography Class at St Stephen’s.

St Stephen’s School Scholastic Art & Writing Competition Gold Key Winners St Stephen’s Creative Writing teacher Moira Egan is pleased to present a selection of the 2019 Gold Key prizewinners. The Scholastic Arts & Writing Competition is the largest and longest-running recognition for creative teens in grades 7-12; more than 350,000 works in visual arts and writing were submitted this year. Congratulations to these young writers! Self as The Eye of a Hurricane by Natalie Silver, grade 9, age 14 “In the eye of a hurricane there is quiet, for just a moment, a yellow sky” - Lin-Manuel Miranda (Hamilton, an American Musical) Despair, destruction, death It feels like it can’t get any worse. Rain, rubble, residue Buildings are collapsing into themselves. Wind, water, wailing. Streets are submerged in a river of water. Screams, shock, slaughter

52 | March 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Silence, stillness, subdued An eerie quiet takes over. Peace, purpose, persistence Beings emerge from hiding. United, understanding, undisturbed Anxious faces look around Calmness, clear, composed Chaos, confusion, cruelty. The eye of the hurricane has passed. Trouble, terror, turmoil All hopes are drowned away Violence, viciousness, vigor. The worst has begun again.

Mirror, mirror… by Lucrezia Brandizzi, grade 9, age 15

The Five Senses of Assault by Isabella Todini, grade 11, age 17

Tik Tok Tik Tok, the persistent beat would kill my patience… When would she come back, I was waiting… Tik Tok Tik Tok.. every time it seemed she would take more.

(Based on the 2015 criminal case, People of the State of California v. Brock Allen Turner)

I looked around, there was this big brown clock, The various shades of gold on the pendulum would faithfully swing all day long. It was as if I would be tormented for the rest of times. I’ve observed her harmonic posture over the years. She never really complained; But it is as if it was bound to happen, That damned pendulum. She came finally, her dirty blonde trimmed hair Would dance around and I would stare. It was as if she had never left, Her presence had always been my theft. I looked upon her small taciturn eyes And it took me a bit to realize, How I had always wanted to be more than me, Brown hair, dark eyes and happily free. A Haikun by Daisy Halliwell-Woods, grade 10, age 15 Sand between my feet, tickles my toes and sole, as it toasts my heel. My shoulders burning, I shudder and yet feel warm, soothed by rosy scents and sights. I remain silent, as I lie under the sun; sand pierces my back. My heavy eyes close, but the bright light shines through them, looking like a god. A cherry-red sky, combined with an orange tang, and a prune-like haze. A deep indigo, and an airy turquoise mist, dappled with white dots. I drift back to sleep, and water sprinkles my face, as if to say wake up. A devious grin, suddenly starts to giggle; overcome, I laugh. Face aching, I stand, and once again look around at my own heaven. The birds soar above, in the cherry-red highway, almost by the sun. The cold approaches, and my burnt shoulders shiver; the day is ending. [The Haikun is a form invented by Daisy HalliwellWoods in 2018. Rather than split the prose and Haiku portions of the traditional Haibun, in the Haikun, the 5-7-5 syllabic pattern is present in each of the sentences of the prose. No haiku is appended.]

She saw his reflection in the nearby shop window. He saw her curves, waiting expectantly for his ravenous touch. She smelled the foulness of his intentions reeking off him like an overused cologne. He smelled her perfume, full of lust and desire. She tasted her panic, its bitter aftertaste drying up the back of her throat. He tasted her sweet, delicate innocence. She heard the silence of the street, pierced by her screams. He failed to hear her say no. She felt her body change owners; she was a house that had been raided. He felt up his prize, his conquest, soft beneath his rough hands. She saw, once again, her well being placed in a man’s hands. He saw an ally, someone who would sympathize and understand his urges. She smelled the pungent odor of injustice, the cloud of filth hovering in the room. He smelled his freedom, a comforting scent that reminded him of home. She tasted the salt of the silent tears dripping down her cheeks. He tasted the sharp tang of privilege against his tongue. She heard the gavel, the affirmation that her voice carried no value. He heard his victory, the bells of triumph ringing. She felt as though she was lost in a sea of despair, stuck in a well with no way out. He felt no remorse, or regret, or guilt.

WANTED IN ROME JUNIOR: For young writers and artists Wanted in Rome is accepting creative contributions from students in all international schools in Rome. Articles on topics related to either the student’s life in Rome or their school projects can be submitted by their class teachers. The work should be no more than 1,000 words and all contributions should contain the name, age and school of the students. We also accept illustrations. Any class teachers who would like to propose a project please contact editorial@wantedinrome.com.

Wanted in Rome • March 2019 | 53

Rome’s artart capital continues to to grow with newnew murals by important Italian and Rome'sreputation reputationasasananimportant importantstreet street capital continues grow with murals by important Italian international streetstreet artistsartists appearing all the all time. the works located the suburbs, often far often from the and international appearing theMost time.ofMost of theare works are in located in the suburbs, far centre. Here is where to is find Rome’s mainthe street artstreet projects murals. from the centre. Here where to find main artand projects and murals around Rome. Esquilino Esquilino Murals Murals byby Alice Alice Pasquini, Pasquini, Gio Gio Pistone, Nicola Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Alessandrini, Diamond. Diamond. Casa Casa dell’Architettura, dell'Architettura, Piazza 47. Fanti PiazzaMafredo Manfredo Fanti 47. Marconi Marconi The The M.A.G.R. M.A.G.R. (Museo (Museo Abusivo Abusivo Gestito Gestitodai daiRom), Rom),a aproject projectby byFrench French street artistSeth Seth is located in a street artist is located in a former Via Antonio former soap factory soap factory on Viaon Antonio AvogaAvogadro, opposite dro, opposite Ostiense'sOstiense’s landmark details see landmark Gasometro. Gasometro. For For details see www.999contemporary.com. www.999contemporary.com. Museodell’Altro dell’Altroe edell’Altrove dell’Altrovedidi Museo Metropoliz Metropoliz This former former meat meat factory factory inin the the This outskirts of of Rome art nowa astreet outskirts Rome isis now street museum being home hometoto art museumasaswell well as as being some200 200squatting squatters,migrants. many of The them some migrants. The Museo dell’Altrodi e Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove dell’Altroveor diMAAM, Metropoliz, or MAAM, Metropoliz, is only open only open Saturdays, and andon features the work onis Saturdays, the work of moreincluding than 300 offeatures more than 300 artists artists including Gio Edoardo Kobra,Edoardo Gio Kobra, Pistone, Pistone, Sten&Lex Diamond.and See Sten&Lex, Pablo and Echaurren MAAM Facebook page for details. Borondo. See MAAM Facebook page Via Prenestina 913. for details. Via Prenestina 913. Ostiense Ostiense Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Porto Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Fluviale. Porto Fluviale. Fish’n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via Fish’n’Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale. del Porto Wall of Fluviale. Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali. Magazzini Shelley by Generali. Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense Via Ostiense. underpass, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense. Pigneto Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Pigneto Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71. Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.

54 | March 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Via Via Fanfulla Fanfulla da da Lodi. Lodi. 2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio. Fortebraccio. 2501 mural on Via Blu by Sten Blu Landscape Landscape by Sten & & Lex. Lex. Via Via Baracca. Francesco Francesco Baracca. Prati Prati Anna Magnaniportrait portrait by Diavù. Anna Magnani by Diavù. Nuovo Nuovo MercatoViaTrionfale, Via Mercato Trionfale, Andrea Doria. Andrea Doria. Daniza the bear by Daniza the bear by ROA. Via Sabotino. ROA. Via Sabotino. Primavalle Primavalle The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via Cristoforo Numai. Cristoforo Numai. the Minotaur by Theseus stabbing Theseus stabbing the Bembo. Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo. Quadraro Quadraro Tunnel murals by Mr THOMS and Gio Tunnel byMure. Mr THOMS and Pistone. murals Via Decio Gio Decio Mure. Via del NidoPistone. di Vespe Via by Lucamaleonte. Nido didel Vespe by Lucamaleonte. Via Monte Grano. del Monte Baby Hulkdel byGrano. Ron English. Via dei Baby PisoniHulk 89. by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89. Rebibbia Rebibbia Murals by Blu. Via Ciciliano and Via Via Murals by Blu. Palombini (Casal dèCiciliano Pazzi). and Via Palombini dè Pazzi). Welcome to(Casal Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Metro B station. Metro B station. S. Basilio S.SanBa Basilio features large-scale works on SanBa features large-scale works the façades of social-housing blockson in the of social-housing blocks the façades disadvantaged north-east suburb of in the disadvantaged north-east S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regenerasuburb of S.includes Basilio works near Rebibbia. tion project by Italian The project artistsregeneration Agostino Iacurci, Hitnesincludes and Blu works by Spain's ItalianLiqen. artistsViaAgostino alongside Maiolati, Iacurci, Hitnes and BluVia alongside Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Arcevia, Spain’s Via Treia.Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, Via Treia. S. Giovanni Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via S.Apulia Giovanni corner of Via Farsalo. Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.

It’s aa New NewDay Daybyby Alice Pasquini. It’s Alice Pasquini. Via Via Anton Ludovico. Anton Ludovico. S. Lorenzo Lorenzo S. Pasquini. ViaSabelli. AlicePasquini. dei Sabelli. Alice Via dei Feminicidemural mural Elisa Feminicide by Elisaby Caracciolo. Caracciolo. Via Dei Sardi.Via Dei Sardi. Viadei Volsci159. Borondo. Via deiVolsci 159. Borondo. Mural by by Agostino AgostinoIacurci Iacurci on Mural on the the Istituto Superiore di Lattanzio, Vittorio Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Via Aquilonia. Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia. Pietro S. Pietro UmaCabra Cabra Bordalo II. Stazione Uma byby Bordalo II. Stazione di S. Pietro, di Monte di S. Clivo Pietro, Clivo del di Gallo. Monte del Gallo. Testaccio Hunted Wolf by ROA. Via Galvani. Testaccio #KindComments AliceVia Pasquini, Via Hunted Wolf bybyROA. Galvani. Volta, Testaccio market. #KindComments by Alice Pasquini, Via Volta, Testaccio market. Tor Pignattara Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta. Tor Pignattara Etnik. Via Bartolomeo Perestrello 51. Antonio Tempesta. Dulk. Via Coffee Etam Cru. Via Ludovico Etnik.Break ViabyBartolomeo Perestrello Pavoni. 51. Coﬀee Break by Etam Cru. Via Tom SawyerPavoni. by Jef Aerosol. Via Gabrio Ludovico Serbelloni. Tom Sawyer by Jef Aerosol. Via Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema Gabrio Serbelloni. Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Galeazzo Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Alessi. Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Herakut. Via Capua 14. Galeazzo Alessi. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Herakut. Via Capua 14. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Tor Marancia The Big City Life scheme features 14-m Tormurals Marancia tall by 22 Italian and internaThe Big City artists Life scheme features tional street including Mr 14-m tall murals by 22 Italian and Klevra, Seth, Gaia and Jerico. The idea international street was to transform theartists area's including blocks of Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia and Jerico. flats into an open-air art museum. Via TheMarancia. idea was to transform the area’s Tor www.bigcity.life.it. blocks of ﬂats into an open-air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. For full details see website, www.bigcity.life.it.

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Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth. Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

Wanted in Rome â&#x20AC;¢ March 2019 | 55

CODA ALLA VACCINARABy Kate Zagorski As one of the classics of cucina romana, Coda alla Vaccinara or Oxtail Stew is a well-known dish in the Eternal City. However, many people are unsure how to cook oxtail or are put off by the long cooking time required to recreate the recipe at home. But if you have a spare half-day to keep an eye on the stew it is actually deceptively easy, incredibly rewarding and will make your house smell amazing. Created in the Regola district of Rome, the dish originated from the vaccinari, or cattle butchers, who were paid with the leftovers and interiors of the animal, including the tail. Often regarded as the regina del quinto quarto (the queen of Roman offal dishes), this recipe for Coda alla Vaccinara should be cooked slowly, for at least four hours, ensuring that the meat just falls off the bone. It will also provide enough leftover sauce for a great rigatoni pasta dish the next day. Although there are many versions of the dish, the recipe below is a good place to start. You can use either coda bovina (oxtail) or vitella (veal) and your butcher can prepare it ready for the pot. Traditional variations also often add pinenuts and raisins towards the end of cooking, along with the cocoa powder.

Ingredients for 2/3 serves

900g oxtail or veal tail (about two small tails), chopped into large pieces 700ml tomato passata 80g guanciale 3 large carrots

3 sticks of celery 2 onions 1 clove garlic 1 fresh red chili 1 glass of white wine

5 tablespoons olive oil 2 small bunches fresh rosemary 2 bunches fresh sage 1 tablespoon of bitter cocoa powder Salt

- First prepare the stock, cut one of the carrots into four pieces, one onion chopped in half, one bunch of rosemary and one of sage tied together, one stick of celery cut into large chunks and the pieces of oxtail. Cover with water, add a good pinch of salt, bring to boil and simmer for 45 minutes. - In the meantime finely chop one carrot, one onion, one stick of celery, the chili, garlic and guanciale into small cubes. Once the stock is ready, remove the oxtail and strain and retain the extra liquid. - Heat the olive oil in a large pot and gently cook the finely chopped mixture for about 5-10 minutes. Add the oxtail and brown for a further 10 minutes, then add the white wine. Once the alcohol has evaporated add the passata, a pinch of salt and enough stock to cover the pieces of oxtail. - Cook on a high heat for 15 minutes then turn the heat to low and cook slowly for at least four hours. Stir occasionally, if the liquid reduces too much just top up with a ladle of stock. About one hour before serving cut the remaining carrot and celery into large slices and add to the stew. Five minutes before serving add a tablespoon of bitter cocoa powder and stir. Remove the oxtail and serve with a dusting of cocoa. Keep the leftover sauce to use with pasta the next day.

58 | March 2019 â&#x20AC;˘ Wanted in Rome

The best Japanese restaurants in Rome AKIRA RAMEN BAR

With its stylishly minimal decor, the name says it all: Ramen Bar Akira prepares the original lekei ramen from a base of pork marrow and futomen, a type of handmade wheat noodle. The dish is served in the traditional style, after having been cooked for 10 hours. Other than the traditional Black Shoyu Tonkotsu and its many variations that are available, there’s also vegetarian ramen with cabbage broth, miso and seasonal vegetables. Open daily for lunch and dinner.

HAMASEI

ramen. Award-winning chef Kotaro Noda has created a dish that’s prepared without adding sodium glutamate, emulsifiers or additives: MaMa-Ya ramen, made from a base of chicken stock with fresh noodles, chicken, poached eggs, black seaweed and fresh onion. Even more unusual is the Gyukotsu ramen, made with bee stock, pork stew, bittersweet ginger and yuzukoshu, a noodle made with chilli and yuzu rind and juice. Open Wed-Mon for lunch and dinner.

SUI GENERIS

An institution for Japanese food lovers, this eatery serves four different lunch menus, ranging from the Sushi Lunch which includes pickled vegetables, mixed sushi and fruit to the Yakizakana Lunch, where instead of sushi there’s grilled fish accompanied by white rice. Other than sushi, for meat lovers the restaurant also serves yakiniku, strips of salted beef with sauce and soy shoots. Open Tues-Sun for lunch and dinner.

Small eatery combining creative cuisine with traditional cooking. The four different lunch menus range from ramen to gyoza or even to okonomiyaki (a sweet and sour pancake) and takoyaki (fried meatballs). There’s also sushi: nigiri is made with the fish of the day, such as turbot or prawns. The homosaki can come with ikura (salmon eggs) served on a slab of rose salt, or the inarizushi – a type of sushi made with rice made of fried tofu – with scallops. Open Thurs-Tues for lunch and dinner.

HAYASHI SUSHI

SUSHISHEN

This restaurant is a staple for lovers of high quality Japanese cuisine. The restaurant is decorated in fusion style and there’s an open bar where you can see the sushi being made as well as an outdoor area. You can order mixed sushi plates or from the menu. Among the dishes available there’s the Hayashi boat with 55 pieces of sashimi, nigiri, maki and uramaki. There’s also raw fish available, such as tuna, tempura, fish eggs and mango. Open Tues-Sun for lunch and dinner.

HASEKURA

The Monti neighbourhood is home to this authentic Japanese restaurant which has been mentioned in the Michelin guide for its cuisine, ambience and fairly priced menu. Its recipes are based on high quality ingredients which results in very tasty food. For starters there’s the raw octopus, crab croquettes and fried oysters, the latter also reappearing in an uramaki version. A mixed plate of sushi is served on a small or large tray but it’s also possible to order off the menu. Open Mon-Sat for lunch and dinner.

KIKO SUSHI BAR

Located in S. Lorenzo, this restaurant is minimal and elegant, serving everything from simple salads to fried delicacies. Such as the Sakana Tempura with salmon, sea bass and scallops with green tea salt. However, it’s the sushi that’s the real star of the show here. On the main menu you can choose a variety of fish (from salmon to sea urchin) and then you can choose between nigiri, sashimi, makimono or temaki. Open Tues-Sun for lunch and dinner.

MAMA-YA RAMEN

A small and friendly local serving alternatives to the classic

Ostiense restaurant recreating traditional recipes. The menu includes ‘Chef’s Specials’ which are only available in the evenings and which recommend dishes such as yuzu matcha torifu sashimi – a sea bass and scallop sashimi with rock salt, truffle, yuzu and green tea. There’s a huge selection of uramaki, such as ones filled with tempura prawns, Savoy cabbage, ginger, hazelnuts and pistachios with touches of seared salmon sashimi or with avocado, raspberries and red fruits. Open Tues-Sun for lunch and dinner.

WARAKU

This Japanese eatery has a more ramen-focused menu – from chicken ramen to the ‘special’ with coconut and sesame, to vegetarian versions. It also serves other classic dishes, such as the udon noodles with ‘sweet cream and four levels of spiciness’, the classic soba or with green tea and gyoza (Japanese dumplings) with celery or wasabi. It is possible to taste okonomiyaki, a sort of crepe made with corn served with meat and Savoy cabbage, served with a sweet and sour sauce. Open Wed-Sun for lunch and dinner. Tues dinner only.

ZUMA

This trendy Japanese restaurant is furnished with vibrant colours, tohiki ceramic tiles and Thai wooden tables. The menu is a mix of cold dishes, salads, dishes cooked on the robata (a type of Japanese grill), sushi and sashimi. You must try the fried calamari with lime and green chilli, king prawns with yuzu pepper, monkfish tempura with yuzu pepper and one (or more) of the 20 sake available. The real bonus is the terrace (from 17.00 until late) where the cocktail bar is centre stage. Open daily for lunch and dinner.

www.puntarellarossa.it Roma Hamasei, Via della Mercede 35, tel. 066792134. Hayashi Sushi, Via Faleria 36, tel. 067000906. Hasekura, Via dei Serpenti 27, tel. 06483648. Kiko sushi bar, Piazzale del Verano 90-91, tel. 0694849822.

Indirizzi

Akira Ramen bar, Via Ostiense 73, tel. 0689344773.

MaMa-Ya Ramen, Via Ostiense 166 A, tel. 3938123386. Sui Generis, Via Bassani 13, tel. 3464970604. Sushisen, Via Giuseppe Giulietti 21 A, tel. 065756945. Waraku, Via Prenestina 321 A, tel. 0621702358. Zuma, Via della Fontanella di Borghese 48, tel. 0699266622. Wanted in Rome • March 2019 | 59

RO MA

Associations American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com Daughters of the American Revolution Pax Romana Chapter NSDAR paxromana@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com

International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490, www.iwcofrome.it Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 3338466820 Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Woman’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com

Books The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified. Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836924 Anglo American Bookshop Via delle Vite 102, tel. 066795222 Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it

Religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881 Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish)

62 | March 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484 Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com Otherwise Via del Governo Vecchio, tel. 066879825, www.otherwisebookshop.com St Patrick’s English-Language Lending Library Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 0688818727, Sun 10.00-12.30, Tues 10.00-14.00, Wed 15.00-18.00, Thurs 11.00-15.30 Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 3332284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday Service 10.30

Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei SS. Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Roma Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic) Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00

Support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.info Archè (HIV+children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/06582045580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 3381675680

Transport • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157066645-064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it

St Isidore College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic), Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827, www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri” Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022

Chiamaroma 24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Emergency numbers • • • • • • •

Ambulance tel. 118 Carabinieri tel. 112 Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 Fire brigade tel. 115 Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 Police tel. 113 Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355 Wanted in Rome • March 2019 | 63

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