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CONT E

EDITORIALS

IN ROME EXHIBITION Jacopo Benci

8. HENRY, ROME'S FORGOTTEN STUART Margaret Stenhouse

12. ISOLA SACRA: THE END OF THE LINE Jenni Scott

16. TO DO CALENDAR 18. Cultural Academies 22. MUSEUMS 26. ART GALLERIES 48. CULTURAL VENUES 52. Wanted in Rome junior 54. STREET ART guide 57. RECIPE 58. PUNTARELLA ROSSA 62. USEFUL NUMBERS

ONLINE CLASSIFIEDS As of 1 January 2019 classified advertisements will no longer appear in the magazine but may be published around the clock on our website www.wantedinrome.com. DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: Marco Venturini EDITRICE: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9 PROGETTO GRAFICO E IMPAGINAZIONE: Dali Studio Srl STAMPA: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c. DIFFUSIONE: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425. Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131del 6/3/1985. Finito di stampare il 30/10/2019

THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME

Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 11, Numero 10 NOVEMBER 2019 | € 2,00

4. BACON AND FREUD

MISCELLANY

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31. EXHIBITIONS 37. Classical 39. ROCk, POP, JAZZ 40. ART NEWS 42. DANCE 44. festivals 44. OPERA 46. Theatre 47. academies

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Conchiglie by Riccardo Monachesi

ENTS 4

BACON AND FREUD IN ROME EXHIBITION

ISOLA SACRA: THE END OF THE LINE

exhibitions

42 FESTIVALS

Art

BACON AND FREUD IN ROME EXHIBITION Rome's Chiostro del Bramante presents Bacon, Freud and the School of London: Works from the Tate Jacopo Benci

he term “School of London” was coined by the painter R.B. Kitaj for the catalogue text of the exhibition The Human Clay, which he organised at London’s Hayward Gallery in 1976, consisting exclusively of figurative paintings.

Kitaj used the term to describe the artists he had assembled, among whom were five of the six painters included in the current exhibition at the Chiostro del Bramante: Francis Bacon (1909-92), Lucian Freud (1922-2011), Leon Kossoff (1926-2019), Michael Andrews (192895), Frank Auerbach (b. 1931). In 2016, Bacon, Freud, Kossoff, Andrews, Auerbach and Kitaj were the subject of the exhibition London Calling at the Getty Museum in Los Angeles, curated by Elena Crippa, curator of Modern and Contemporary British Art at the Tate. For the Rome exhibition, Crippa has replaced Kitaj’s work with that of Paula Rego (b. 1935). For the Italian public, Bacon is by far the most familiar name among the six painters. Since the 1950s, his work was received with interest and exhibited often in Rome and elsewhere, and had an influence on artists and filmmakers such as Pistoletto and Antonioni. The exhibition includes major paintings (and some works on paper and drawings) by Bacon, among which are Figure in a Landscape (1945), Study for a Portrait (1952), Dog (1952), Study for Portrait II (after the Life Mask of William Blake) (1955), Seated Figure (1961), Study for Portrait on Folding Bed (1963), and Portrait of Isabel Rawsthorne (1966).

4 | November 2019 • Wanted in Rome

They explore in different, surprising, disturbing ways the human figure, twisted and smeared, most times encased and isolated in a transparent glass box. As Bacon stated in 1966: “What I want to do is to distort the thing far

Art beyond the appearance but in the distortion to bring it back to a recording of the appearance”. The Chiostro del Bramante exhibition introduces a wider public to the works of Freud, and especially Andrews, Auerbach, Kossoff, and Rego, all of whom are well known in Britain – where they have been and continue to be relevant to younger generations of painters – but not often seen in Italy. While it may be incorrect to define School of London painters as “existentialists”, their approach certainly revolved around the psychological aspects of the life of individuals in a specific place and time. They had in common an unshakable faith in what they saw as the cognitive and ethical value of figurative painting compared to abstraction. As Freud wrote in his manifesto Some Thoughts on Painting (published in Encounter, III, no. 1, July 1954): “Painters who deny themselves the representation of life and limit their language to purely abstract forms, are depriving themselves of the possibility of provoking more than an aesthetic emotion.” And Andrews remarked in 1964, “we thought our responses to people and circumstances and life were more important than nursing some systematic idea of what painting was all about.” Andrews studied painting at the Slade School of Art in 1949-53; Freud taught him, and Bacon visited Andrews’s studio to discuss his work. Andrews was a Scholar in Painting at the British School at Rome in 1953, and played a part in the history of British cinema. Lorenza Mazzetti, a young Italian student at the Slade, cast him as the protagonist of her films K (1954, based on Kafka’s Metamorphosis), and Together (1956, alongside sculptor Eduardo Paolozzi), the first example of the British Free Cinema. Freud met Francis Bacon in 1944, and from then onwards they saw each other daily; over time, Bacon’s bold and powerful way of painting would help the younger painter loosen up. In 1946-47, Freud went to Paris where he met Picasso and visited the studios of Alberto Giacometti and Balthus. The statement in Freud’s 1954 manifesto Some Thoughts on Painting, that the painter’s determination to “move the senses by giving an intensification of reality”, can be understood in relation to

Lucian Freud, Boy Smoking, 1950-51. Tate: Bequeathed by Simon Sainsbury 2006, accessioned 2008. © Lucian Freud Archive / Bridgeman Images. Photo © Tate 2019.

Giacometti’s and Balthus’s tireless investigation of the human figure. In the late 1940s and early 1950s, Freud painted painstakingly detailed portraits, somewhere between the optical objectivity of 15th-century Flemish painting and the merciless eye of German New Objectivity. Attention to the subject remained constant in both the early phase of Freud’s work, when he recorded with stunning precision the subjects’ skin tone and texture, pimples, hair, clothes in mostly small paintings, as well as in the mature phase when he painted on larger canvases and the brushwork loosened up and got bolder. Freud used long daily sessions with the sitters – some lasted many months – rather than photography in the preparation of his portraits. Both phases of Freud’s work are represented in the exhibition through images that are nervous and trenchant such as Girl with a Kitten (1947), Boy Smoking, and Girl with a White Dog (both 1950-51), or corpulent and assertive such as Standing by the Rags (1988-89), Leigh Bowery (1991), David and Eli (2003-04). Wanted in Rome • November 2019 | 5

Art Freud, Auerbach and Kossoff worked in close contact with their models; Andrews and Bacon used pre-existing images, photographs and, in the case of Bacon, images of sculptures, paintings by other artists, photographs of humans and animals in motion, illustrations, film stills taken from books and magazines. Their ways of handling the paint, however different, suggested or possessed a strong physicality and tactility. Bacon’s work especially evoked living flesh, organic matter, and bodily fluids.

Leon Kossoff, Christ Church, Spitalfields, Morning, 1990. Tate: Purchased 1994 © Leon Kossoff. Photo © Tate 2019.

Born in Berlin in 1931, Auerbach was sent to England at the age of seven by his Jewish parents to escape Nazism. After the war, he studied painting at the same art colleges attended by Leon Kossoff (the son of Russian Jewish parents, he was born in London in 1926). The two young painters became close friends. In the wake of Bacon and Freud, Auerbach and Kossoff committed themselves to portraying people whom they knew intimately, with a thick impasto and often scraping the paint away and drastically reworking the canvas. They also turned their attention to what surrounded them, such as the cityscape of London being rebuilt after the heavy bombing of world war two. Kossoff recalled in 1972: “Ever since the age of twelve, I have drawn and painted London ... the strange ever-changing light, the endless streets and the shuddering feel of the sprawling city linger in my mind like a faintly glimmering memory of a long-forgotten, perhaps never experienced childhood, which, if rediscovered and illuminated, would ameliorate the pain of the present.” 6 | November 2019 • Wanted in Rome

As Bacon stated in 1953: “Real painting is a mysterious and continuous struggle with chance – mysterious because the very substance of the paint … can make such a direct assault on the nervous system; continuous because the medium is so fluid and subtle that every change that is made loses what is already there in the hope of making a fresh gain.” Scraping, erasing, painting over was also part of Auerbach’s process (The Sitting Room, 1964). He stated in 1978: “I finish pictures again and again several times a day until finally it seems to me that it has got a little something.” Born in Portugal, Rego moved to London in the early 1950s, and studied at the Slade in 1952-56 under Lucian Freud, overlapping with Michael Andrews. Her early work showed a link with Surrealism, but by the late 1980s it had become more boldly figurative and narrative; the Tate exhibited, and then purchased, her series of drawings and the painting called The Dance (1988), showing women and men dancing in a moonlit landscape with the ominous presence of a fortress in the background. These six artists share a preoccupation with psychology, an engagement with the physicality of painterly matter, and a steady concentration on a subject, but individual strategies are rather distinct: the human figure, very often indoors and up close, and mise-en-scène for Bacon, Freud, and Rego; the exterior, the cityscapes, the broader views for Auerbach (Primrose Hill, 1967-68) and Kossoff (Christ Church, Spitalfields, Morning, 1990), with Andrews’s work (Melanie and Me Swimming, 1978-79) somehow mediating between these polarities. The exhibition runs at Chiostro del Bramante, Via Arco della Pace 5, until 23 February 2020.

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History Opera

HENRY, ROME'S FORGOTTEN STUART Cardinal Henry Stuart, Duke of York was Bishop of Frascati, where he lived peacefully for many years - until the Stuart jinx caught up with him Margaret Stenhouse

any people are surprised to find, to the left of the entrance to Frascati cathedral in the hills south of Rome, a memorial to Prince Charles Edward Stuart, the Young Pretender (or Bonnie Prince Charlie to nostalgic ex-pat Scots), who tried unsuccessfully to reconquer the British throne in 1746 at the battle of Cullodon.

Few know that Charles, who died in Rome at Palazzo Muti in 1788, was interred there for some years before his remains were transferred to the crypt of St Peter’s in Rome, to join those of his father, the uncrowned James III, and his younger brother, Cardinal Henry Duke of York. Henry himself had conducted Charles’ funeral service in Frascati “with many tears” according to the inscription, in his capacity as Frascati’s titular bishop. Cardinal Henry Stuart then became the last direct heir of the Stewart (or Stuart in the French form of the name) dynasty which had ruled Scotland from the early 14th century until 1603, when James VI of Scotland, the son of Mary Queen of Scots, succeeded to the English throne as James I, thus leading to the formation of the United Kingdom. Unlike his much-romanticised elder brother Charles, Henry is not celebrated in song and legend. His story is remembered mainly by historians and nostalgics of the Jacobite movement. It is, however, a tale full of unexpected revelations and adventures, in the best traditions of the long line of ill-fated Stuart kings.

Portrait of Cardinal Henry Stuart by Anton Raphaël Mengs.

8 | November 2019 • Wanted in Rome

For the greater part of his life, Henry led a peaceful existence in Frascati, where he was affectionately known to his parishioners as Il Cardinale degli Organi (the Cardinal of the Organs), this being the nearest they could get to pronouncing his name, York. A much-loved

History bishop who administered his diocese with energetic efficiency and an ingrained spirit of humanity, he was loved for his good works and his interest in culture and progress. Henry was born in Rome, where the Stuarts had settled after the deposition of James II, Henry’s grandfather. In 1725, at the time of the prince’s birth, hopes of a Stuart restoration, backed by both the pope and the King of France, still ran high. The boys were brought up as royal princes in anticipation of the restoration of the Stuart dynasty to the English throne. The two brothers, who were baptised as Catholics, received the kind of education normally allotted to royal heirs. They learned the social graces, such as music and dancing, etiquette and good manners, the arts of fencing, hunting and shooting. British spies at the time, however, commented that they were not well educated. Whatever lapses there were on the cultural side, Henry made up for them later in life. A year after his brother’s final and disastrous defeat in Scotland at the Battle of Culloden, Henry decided to enter holy orders. In June 1747 he was created a cardinal deacon by Pope Benedict XIV and assigned the titular church of S. Maria in Campitelli in Rome, and was ordained a priest the following year. This was a serious blow to the Stuart cause. Although his father eventually accepted his decision, Charles was furious and the two brothers were estranged for many years. The Jacobites branded him a traitor to the cause and accused him of opportunism, but there is no reason to doubt the sincerity of his vocation. As a young boy he had been considered bright and lively, a good dancer and charming conversationist, but as an adolescent he became increasingly withdrawn, thoughtful and devout. Cardinal York became bishop of Frascati in 1761 and ruled the diocese for over 50 years, leaving a profound impact on the town. Among his most important achievements was the founding of a seminary which became a much acclaimed seat of learning, staffed by teachers and lecturers who were all experts in the various fields of philosophy, maths, science and literature. Henry took a great interest in the scientific developments of the time and installed a modern printing works inside the seminary where the students learned typesetting and copper-plating techniques.

Monument to the Royal Stuarts in St Peter's Basilica.

The cardinal also equipped the college with modern comforts. The kitchen area had hot and cold running water and there were plumbed toilets installed on all the three floors. The boys were provided recreational facilities like pelota and billiards. He organised hunting trips in the surrounding countryside and during the carnival season he enjoyed watching the theatrical performances staged by the students. The library was stocked with 12,000 volumes in many languages, the cardinal’s collection included illuminated manuscripts and rare music scores. Unfortunately, both the seminary and the library suffered damage during the bombardments of world war two. The library contents were transferred to the Vatican where they remain today. The “Cardinal of the Organs” was also known for his charitable deeds. He modernised the mediaeval St Sebastian hospital at Frascati and set up an ambulance service, with coach and horses kept standing by to transport the sick or injured quickly to the hospital for treatment. Wanted in Rome • November 2019 | 9

History His pastoral visits took in the poorest and most remote communities in the diocese, including the wretched settlement of itinerary workers at La Molara, below the Tusculum hill, where he built new houses, a school and a church (unfortunately destroyed during the Napoleonic invasion of Italy). The cardinal was also a lavish host, who kept an open door and entertained extensively. He had a small dog, a stray that had attached itself to him one day in Rome, and he had it perform tricks on the dining table when the meal was over, a practice that did not meet everyone’s favour. The cardinal’s portrait hangs in the sacristy of Frascati Cathedral, but his memory is best preserved in the episcopal palace, known as La Rocca, where he had his residence and which still stands in the heart of Frascati’s centro storico. Henry took the building over when it was a virtually dilapidated old fortress and had it restored extensively. He commissioned the Polish artist Taddeo Kuntz to decorate the rooms according to the fashion of the time with grotesques and pastoral and mythological scenes in bright pastel colours. Sadly, the palace is not open to the public. Only two negative incidents seemed to ruffle the surface of Cardinal Henry’s long and peaceful ministry. One was a failed assassination attempt.

The other was the unexpected collapse of the dining-room floor at La Rocca while the cardinal was entertaining. His distinguished guests were sent plummeting down into the coach-house below in a blinding shower of dust, splintering wood and masonry. Henry had a lucky escape because he landed on the roof of one of the carriages. This broke his fall, but others were not so fortunate and suffered serious injuries. After the death of his brother Charles Edward in 1788, Henry adopted the title of Henry IX, King of England, Scotland and Ireland. He was well aware that he would never sit on the London throne but he maintained the outdated claim as a mark of respect for his ancient dynasty. His predecessors had not enjoyed his tranquil life. Most of the Stuarts had spent their lives fighting wars and rebellions and had met premature and violent deaths. However, the Stuart jinx was destined to catch up with the last of the line in the end. In 1798, at the venerable age of 73, he was forced to abandon his home and flee before the Napoleonic invasion of the Papal States. Pope Pius VI was carried off in captivity to France and the panicking Roman clergy fled south to seek refuge in the Kingdom of Naples, which was under the protection of the British navy commanded by Horatio Nelson. Less than a year later, however, Napoleon’s troops advanced on Naples and Cardinal Henry, along with the Neapolitan royal family, was forced to sail to Sicily. According to some biographers, they arrived after a terrifying three-week voyage, battling through what Nelson claimed was the worst storm he had ever encountered. This was only the beginning of a series of adventures during a two-year flight that took him from Sicily to Corfu, where he landed just the day after Russian and Turkish troops had managed to oust the French after a four-month siege. He proceeded to Venice, where he arrived penniless, to attend a stormy conclave to elect Pius VII, the successor of Pius VI, who had died a prisoner in France in 1799. Cardinal Henry Stuart died in Frascati in 1807. The Flight of the last Stuart King by Margaret Stenhouse is available in the Anglo American Book Store in Rome and also on Amazon.

10 | November 2019 • Wanted in Rome

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History Opera

ISOLA SACRA: THE END OF THE LINE The Isola Sacra necropolis offers an insight into cosmopolitan middle-class life and death over three ancient Roman dynasties

ocated just south of the coastal town of Fiumicino, some 30km south-west of Rome, the Isola Sacra is an artificial island containing a necropolis or cemetery dating from the first century AD and which was in use for around 300 years. Situated at the mouth of the Tiber, the island which was not declared sacred until the sixth

An interior courtyard at the Isola Sacra.

12 | November 2019 â&#x20AC;˘ Wanted in Rome

Jenni Scott century, is bordered by the Fossa Traiana to the north (now the canal of Fiumicino), the Tiber to the east and south, and the sea to the west. Isola Sacra was created by Trajan around 130 AD as the result of the construction of a connecting canal between the Tiber and the sea, replacing an earlier Claudian canal. The island forms a rough rectangle, and is now wider towards the

History tree lined streets and squares. Strict rules dictated the dimensions of the sepulchres, which were vigorously checked and recorded on marble plaques set in front of the tomb. The majority of the 100 sepulchres had little courtyards leading to the doorway with an inscription over it. Once inside there were one or two rooms – some have two floors – niches for urns, decorations and space for the families to come and remember their loved ones. One features a terrace, inviting families and friends to sit in the sun and have a picnic maybe, musing over old times. The most sought-after burial sites were the ones most visible from the then first-century main road connecting the cities of Ostia and Portus. As with the Via Appia Antica in Rome, the most important tombs were always the ones closest to the road, acting as a public display of the dead person’s wealth and importance. An evocative wander through this peaceful site allows visitors to admire the sarcophagi, Greek and Latin inscriptions, scraps of mosaic floors, fragments of elegant stuccoed ceilings and beautifully-painted faded murals. Isola Sacra is open several days a week but advance booking is required. Families embellished the sepulchres where the remains of their loved ones were placed – quite possibly echoing the décor of west than it was in the classical period due to their own houses in life, thus creating a reassuring sand deposition from the sea over centuries. home from home for those left behind. The cemetery was most probably submerged Most of the families buried at the Isola Sacra under a build-up of silt and sand by the sixth were established tradesmen from farmers to century and only came to light in the 1920s fishermen, blacksmiths to water carriers. Tools when a land reclaim operation was underway. of their trade are depicted in terracotta plaques It was restored over the next 20 years. For the still attached to the exterior walls. Then there last two decades the British School at Rome has were the professionals. Take a husband and been instrumental in the successful excavation of wife team for example, surgeon Marco Ulpio Portus, the Roman empire’s first deep water port Amerimno depicted doing something gruesome close to Rome. The original harbour was begun to a patient’s leg, a range of intimidating large around 46 AD by Claudius (10 BC – 54 AD) and knives lined up behind him. completed some 20 years later, after his death. At first glance the general effect of the cemetery is of a miniature village complete with its houses,

A further plaque is of his better half – midwife Scribonia Attice – depicted on a low stool, Wanted in Rome • November 2019 | 13

History Opera arms outstretched to receive the baby, her naked patient in a chair, another woman is holding her under her arms. The plaque on the exterior of the tomb translates thus: May this monument be protected against evil! Built by Scribonia Attice for herself, her husband Marco, for Scribonia Callityche her mother, Diocles and freedmen and their descendants Bird mosaic at Isola Sacra. except Panaratus and Prosdocia. This tomb is for our exclusive use. One wonders what P & P could have done to incur her wrath to be so publicly shamed and excluded. A fisherman’s family commissioned a black and white mosaic of a lighthouse and two ships outside his sepulchre with a Greek inscription declaiming “here ends every endeavour”, there’s another ship with three sailors, a fourth steering with the ship’s rudder. Another plaque depicts a carpenter complete with an array of the tools of his trade – hammers, shears, grips, planes, anvil and workbench – tools that could certainly be used today. On another a farmer crushes wheat with the aid of a working horse harnessed to walk round the mill. A further terracotta plaque shows a blacksmith standing on a bench working on a grindstone. On the right is a plaque showing a man behind his shop counter, surrounded by practical tools while another works at a bench.

First prize for the most unusual floor mosaic for a necropolis has to be awarded to the black and white image of a nude lady putting on or removing a robe, a small bird, a dove maybe, and a half open casket with a necklace spilling out of it at her feet. Read into that what you will. The powers that be say it’s an image of Venus, but who knows. Business at the necropolis must have been brisk. The average life span at the time was 23 years based on the people buried there. At that time a mere 10 per cent of the population made it past 50. The women crammed bearing an average of six children into their all too brief lives. No wonder Scribonia could afford a fancy tomb. Once excavated, the site yielded a treasure trove of over 2,000 skeletons, providing archaeologists with priceless information about diet, longevity and origins at the time. The skeletons revealed that the average height for males was 164 cm (five foot four inches), for women 152 cm (five foot.) The Isola Sacra necropolis represents a rare insight into cosmopolitan middle class life and death over three dynasties – Hadrian, the Antonines and the Severan Dynasty. An on-going treasure trove for archaeologists and an unusual pleasure for all who make the trip to see Isola Sacra in its tranquil setting.

Isola Sacra is open Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays 10.00-16.00, also on the first and third Sunday of the month. Admission is free but booking is obligatory, tel. 066583888. Via Monte Spinoncia 52. The site is badly signposted and access by public transport is difficult. Easiest access is by car, and then perhaps by taxi from Rome costing about €50 one way. Alternatively the Isola Sacra can be reached by train or bus to Fiumicino airport and then two stops on a Cotral coach to Via della Scafa 374, Ostia.

14 | November 2019 • Wanted in Rome

to do

Mon Tue Wed Thu 5

Visit the Baths of Caracalla for free in honour of Italy’s unification day.

Catch Oscar & Walt by the English Theatre of Rome near Piazza Navona.

See the outdoor exhibit Dinosauri in carne ed ossa at l’Oasi WWF near Fregene.

Have a late night burger and side of fries at Barrel Bar & Grill.

Head to the cinema to see Helen Mirren narrate the story of Anne Frank through her diary.

Take the kids to see Oscar-winning special effects by artist Carlo Rambaldi at Pala Expo.

Don’t miss Mozart’s Idomeneo at Teatro dell’Opera di Roma.

Immerse yourself in history through virtual reality at the Circo Maximo Experience.

Enroll in a conversation course to brush up your Italian at Dante Alighieri language school.

See what the hype is about and meet for cocktails at Drink Kong.

Consider the spiritual aspect of contemporary art with a new show at MAXXI.

Listen to the Orchestra and Chorus of Accademia Nazionale di S. Cecilia perform Wagner’s Tristan und Isolde.

ART MUSIC FOOD NATURE CINEMA FAMILY THEATRE

Watch comedian Louis C.K. perform at the Teatro Sistina.

Try a Pilates matwork class in English at the Ryoga centre in Trastevere.

Castroni stocks some Thanksgiving essentials for lastminute recipes.

Munch on turkey and stuffing at the Hard Rock Cafè as part of its Thanksgiving menu.

Foto di skeeze da Pixabay

November Fri Sat Sun 2019 1

On All Saint’s Day visit the Non-Catholic Cemetery in Testaccio.

See Dianne Reeves perform for Roma Jazz Festival at the Auditorium Parco Della Musica.

Whisk the kids off to Teatro Sistina for Mary Poppins il Musical.

Participate in Temple University’s Open Day to learn about opportunities for continuing education in Rome.

Listen to American folk artist Micah P. Hinson as he performs his latest album at Le Mura.

Catch a screening of Medfilm Fest, dedicated to Mediterranean filmmakers.

Kick off Rome’s Pysch Fest at Monk with a concert by White Hills.

Admire the splendour of silversmith Valadier at Galleria Borghese but book in advance.

Get tickets to Rambert Dance Company’s show at Auditorium Parco Della Musica.

Step into new art museum Musja to see the Who is Afraid of the Dark exhibition.

Enjoy the sculptures of Medardo Rosso in the beautiful Palazzo Altemps.

Get cosy at the booklined Keats-Shelley House with its view over Piazza di Spagna.

Immerse yourself in the ancient Etruscan world at the Villa Giulia museum.

Check out Salum’È, the first edition of the festival dedicated to Italian cured meats, at WeGil.

A short of the most hort guide toguide sometoofsome the most important international Cultural ortant international Cultural Academies Rome representing demies in Romeinrepresenting from around the world ntriescountries from around the world in the Eternal city. he Eternal city.

Cultural Cultural Academies Academies AMERICAN ACADEMY IN ROME The American Academy in Rome works to promote research and independent study in the arts and humanities. Via Angelo Masina 5, tel. 065810788, www.aarome.org.

CASA DI GOETHE Rome’s museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe offers exhibitions and cultural events throughout the year. Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www.casadigoethe.it.

ACADEMY AUSTRIAN IN ROME CULTURAL FORUM CASA DI GOETHE CENTRE CULTUREL SAINT-LOUIS DE FRANCE an Academy in Rome worksCultural to promote research and dedicated Rome’s museum The dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe The Austrian Forum hosts events to the centre offers cultural events such as film screenings, t study in the artsandand humanities. ViaViale Angelo offers and cultural events throughout the year. history culture of Austria. Bruno Buozzi 113,exhibitions tel. lectures, debates and theatre. Largo Toniolo 20, Via tel. 066802629, l. 065810788, www.aarome.org. del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, 063608371, www.austriacult.roma.it. www.ifcsl.com.www.casadigoethe.it.

BELGIAN ACADEMY CENTRO CULTURALDE BRASIL-ITALIA CULTURAL FORUM CENTRE CULTUREL SAINT-LOUIS FRANCE The Belgian Academy scientific and cultural Thecultural centre offers courses Portuguese and samba an Cultural Forum hosts eventsfacilitates dedicated to the Therelations centre offers events such ofasBrazilian film screenings, and Belgium by sponsoring researchers and artists meetings writers conferences on culture of between Austria.Italy Viale Bruno Buozzi 113, tel. lectures, debates and andhosts theatre. Largowith Toniolo 20,and tel.filmmakers, 066802629, in Italy. Via Omero 8, tel. 063201889, www.academiabelgica.it. www.austriacult.roma.it. www.ifcsl.com. Brazilian literature and screenings of Brazilian movies. Piazza BRITISH COUNCIL

Navona 18, tel. 0668398284, www.roma.itamaraty.gov.br/i-

CADEMY CENTRO CULTURAL BRASIL-ITALIA t/centro_cultural_brasil-italia.xml. The British Council promotes the English language and Academy facilitates scientific cultural relations The centre offersDANISH courses of Brazilian Portuguese and samba appreciation in Italy and of the UK’s creative ideas and achievemenACADEMY y and Belgium researchers artistswww.britishcouncil.it. and hosts meetings with writers and is filmmakers, on to Danish ts. by Viasponsoring di S. Sebastianello 16, tel. and 06478141, The Danish Academy an institutionconferences that offers support Omero 8, tel. 063201889, www.academiabelgica.it. Brazilian literature andinscreenings of Brazilian movies. Piazza artists Rome. Via Omero 18, tel. 063265931, ww.dkinst-rom.dk. BRITISH SCHOOL AT ROME Navona 18, tel. 0668398284, www.roma.itamaraty.gov.br/iThe British School at Rome brings scholars, artists, researchers DUTCH INSTITUTE OUNCIL t/centro_cultural_brasil-italia.xml. and architects Britain to create The Dutch Institute offers courses for students and researchers h Council promotes the from English language anda cultural exchange between Britain and Gramsci 61, tel. DANISH 063264939, and serves as a bridge between Dutch universities and Italy. Via n in Italy of the UK’s creative ideasItaly. and Via achievemenACADEMY Omero tel. 063269621, www.knir.it. Sebastianellowww.bsr.ac.uk. 16, tel. 06478141, www.britishcouncil.it. The Danish Academy is an10,institution that offers support to Danish artists in Rome. Via Omero 18, tel. 063265931, ww.dkinst-rom.dk. 18 | November • Wanted in Rome •2019 | Wanted in Rome april 2017 4 CHOOL AT ROME School at Rome brings scholars, artists, researchers DUTCH INSTITUTE cts from Britain to create a cultural exchange The Dutch Institute offers courses for students and researchers ritain and Italy. Via Gramsci 61, tel. 063264939, and serves as a bridge between Dutch universities and Italy. Via

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EGYPTIAN ACADEMY

KEATS-SHELLEY MEMORIAL HOUSE

EGYPTIAN ACADEMY The Egyptian Academy brings Arabian, Egyptian and African The Egyptian Academy Arabian, and African culture and art tobrings Italy. Via Omero 4,Egyptian tel. 063201896, www.accaculture and art to Italy. Via Omero 4, tel. 063201896, www.accademiaegitto.org. demiaegitto.org.

KEATS-SHELLEY MEMORIAL HOUSE Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets Museum to Bysshe the lives of three Romantic – John dedicated Keats, Percy Shelley and English Lord Byron. Piazza poets di – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235,www.keats-shelley-house.it. Spagna 26, tel. 066784235,www.keats-shelley-house.it.

FRENCH ACADEMY The French Academy at Villa Medici hosts artists from France andAcademy provides exhibitions and festivals theFrance year. Viale The French at Villa Medici hosts throughout artists from Trinità dei Montiand 1, tel.festivals 066761305, www.villamedici.it. and provides exhibitions throughout the year. Viale Trinità deiGERMAN Monti 1, tel. 066761305, www.villamedici.it. ACADEMY

NORWEGIAN INSTITUTE The Norwegian Institute in Rome offers undergraduate and courses in art history, ancient studies and Italian. Vialeand Thegraduate Norwegian Institute in Rome offers undergraduate 30 Aprile 33, tel.in 0658391007, graduate courses art history,www.hf.uio.no. ancient studies and Italian. Viale 30 POLISH Aprile 33, tel. 0658391007, www.hf.uio.no. CULTURAL INSTITUTE

German Academy offers German artists, writers, musicians GERMANThe ACADEMY and architects the opportunity to study in Rome. Largo di Villa The German Academy offers German artists, writers, musicians Massimo 1, tel. 064425931, www.deutsche-kultur-international.de. and architects the opportunity to study in Rome. Largo di Villa HISTORICAL INSTITUTE Massimo 1,GERMAN tel. 064425931, www.deutsche-kultur-international.de.

Institution dedicated to Polish history and culture as well as the POLISH CULTURAL INSTITUTE promotion of dialogue between Poland and Italy. Via Vittoria Institution dedicated to Polish history and culture as well as the Colonna 1, tel. 0636000723,www.istitutopolacco.it. promotion of dialogue between Poland and Italy. Via Vittoria POLISH OF SCIENCE Colonna 1, ACADEMY tel. 0636000723,www.istitutopolacco.it.

GERMANand HISTORICAL INSTITUTE Italy, in particular the relations between both countries. Via Aurelia Antica 391, tel. 066604921, This institute conducts research into thewww.dhi-roma.it. history of Germany and Italy, in particular the relations between both countries. Via GOETHE INSTITUT Aurelia Antica 391, tel.Institut 066604921, www.dhi-roma.it. The Goethe promotes education in Italy about German

POLISH ACADEMY OF SCIENCE a scientific exchange between Poland and Italy. Vicolo Doria 2, 066792170, www.accademiapolacca.it. Thetel.Polish Academy is a research centre for the humanities and a scientific exchange between Poland and Italy. Vicolo Doria 2, ROMANIAN ACADEMY tel.The 066792170, Romanianwww.accademiapolacca.it. Academy hosts events and promotes cultural

language and history. Via Savoia 15, tel. 068440051, GOETHE culture, INSTITUT www.goethe.de. The Goethe Institut promotes education in Italy about German HUNGARIAN culture, language and ACADEMY history. Via Savoia 15, tel. 068440051, The Academy of Hungary in Rome hosts concerts, literary www.goethe.de.

relations between Romania and Italy. Piazza Josè di S. Martin 1, ROMANIAN ACADEMY tel. 063201594, www.accadromania.it. The Romanian Academy hosts events and promotes cultural RUSSIAN INSTITUTE OF CULTURE LANGUAGE relations between Romania and Italy.AND Piazza Josè di S. Martin 1, Russian Institute provides classes in Russian language and tel.The 063201594, www.accadromania.it.

HUNGARIAN GiuliaACADEMY 1, tel. 066889671, www.roma.balassiintezet.hu. The Academy of Hungary in Rome hosts concerts, literary INSTITUTO CERVANTES events and exhibitions by Hungarian andcreated scholars. Via Instituto Cervantes is a culturalartists institution to promote Giulia 1, tel. www.roma.balassiintezet.hu. the066889671, teaching of Spanish language and culture. Via di Villa Albani

RUSSIAN INSTITUTE OF CULTURE AND LANGUAGE SPANISH ACADEMY TheThe Russian Institute provides classes in Russian language and Spanish Academy hosts artists in many fields of study and culture. Farini tel. 064870137. holds Via events that62, provide a cultural bridge between Spain and

FRENCH ACADEMY

This institute conducts research into the history of Germany

events and exhibitions by Hungarian artists and scholars. Via

16, CERVANTES tel. 068551949, www.cervantes.es. INSTITUTO ITALIAN INSTITUTE FORinstitution LATIN AMERICA Instituto Cervantes is a cultural created to promote TheofItalo-Latin American and Institute facilitates into the the teaching Spanish language culture. Via diresearch Villa Albani cultural, scientific, economic and social aspects of Italy and 16, tel. 068551949, www.cervantes.es. Latin American countries. Via Giovanni Paisiello 24, tel. ITALIAN INSTITUTE FOR LATIN AMERICA 06684921, www.iila.org.

The Italo-Latin American Institute facilitates research into the JAPANESE CULTURAL INSTITUTE cultural, scientific, economic socialhosts aspects Italy and The Japanese Cultural and Institute hostsofregular cultural Latin American countries. Giovanni Paisiello 24, tel. events and also offers Via courses in Japanese. Via Gramsci 74, tel. 06684921,063224754, www.iila.org. www.jfroma.it. JAPANESE CULTURAL INSTITUTE The Japanese Cultural Institute hosts hosts regular cultural events and also offers courses in Japanese. Via Gramsci 74, tel. 063224754, www.jfroma.it.

NORWEGIAN INSTITUTE

The Polish Academy is a research centre for the humanities and

culture. Via Farini 62, tel. 064870137.

Italy. Piazza S. Pietro in Montorio 3, tel. 065818607, www.raer.it. SPANISH ACADEMY TheSWEDISH Spanish INSTITUTE Academy hosts artists in many fields of study and OF CLASSICAL STUDIES Theevents Swedishthat Institute is a a research dedicated to scientiholds provide culturalcentre bridge between Spain and fic Piazza research in artin and archaeology. Via Omero www.raer.it. 14, tel. Italy. S. Pietro Montorio 3, tel. 065818607, 063201596, www.isvroma.it.

SWEDISH INSTITUTE OF CLASSICAL STUDIES INSTITUTE TheSWISS Swedish Institute is a research centre dedicated to scientiThe Swiss Institute offers exhibitions, events and classes fic research in art and archaeology. Via Omero 14, tel. dedicated to the culture of Switzerland. Via Ludovisi 48, tel. 063201596, www.isvroma.it. 064814234, www.istitutosvizzero.it. SWISS INSTITUTE The Swiss Institute offers exhibitions, events and classes dedicated to the culture of Switzerland. Via Ludovisi 48, tel. 064814234, www.istitutosvizzero.it.

Wanted in Rome • april 2017 | 4

EGYPTIAN ACADEMY The Egyptian Academy brings Arabian, Egyptian and African culture and art to Italy. Via Omero 4, tel. 063201896, www.accademiaegitto.org. EGYPTIAN ACADEMY

KEATS-SHELLEY MEMORIAL HOUSE Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235,www.keats-shelley-house.it. KEATS-SHELLEY MEMORIAL HOUSE

EGYPTIAN ACADEMY FRENCH ACADEMY The Egyptian Academy brings Arabian, Egyptian and African The Egyptian Academy Arabian, and African The culture French Academy at Villa Medici hosts artists from France and art tobrings Italy. Via Omero 4,Egyptian tel. 063201896, www.accaculture and art to Italy. Via Omero tel. 063201896, www.accaand provides exhibitions and 4, festivals throughout the year. Viale demiaegitto.org. demiaegitto.org. Trinità dei Monti 1, tel. 066761305, www.villamedici.it.

KEATS-SHELLEY NORWEGIANMEMORIAL INSTITUTE HOUSE Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets Museum to Bysshe the lives of Romantic The dedicated Norwegian Institute in three Rome offers undergraduate and – John Keats, Percy Shelley and English Lord Byron. Piazza poets di – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley ancient and Lord Byron. Piazza diViale graduate courses in art history, studies and Italian. Spagna 26, tel. 066784235,www.keats-shelley-house.it. Spagna tel. 33, 066784235,www.keats-shelley-house.it. 3026, Aprile tel. 0658391007, www.hf.uio.no.

FRENCH ACADEMY The French Academy at Villa Medici hosts artists from France GERMAN ACADEMY provides exhibitions andGerman festivals throughout theFrance year. Viale The French Academy at Villaoffers Medici hosts artists, artists writers, from The and German Academy musicians dei Monti 1, tel.festivals 066761305, www.villamedici.it. and provides exhibitions and the year. Viale and Trinità architects the opportunity tothroughout study in Rome. Largo di Villa TrinitàMassimo deiGERMAN Monti 1, tel. 066761305, www.villamedici.it. 1, tel. 064425931, www.deutsche-kultur-international.de. ACADEMY

NORWEGIAN INSTITUTE The Norwegian Institute INSTITUTE in Rome offers undergraduate and POLISH CULTURAL courses in art history, ancient studies and Italian.as Viale Thegraduate Norwegian Institute in Polish Rome offers undergraduate andas the Institution dedicated to history and culture well 30promotion Aprile 33, tel. 0658391007, www.hf.uio.no. graduate courses art history, ancientPoland studiesand andItaly. Italian. Viale ofin dialogue between Via Vittoria 30 POLISH Aprile 33, tel. 0658391007, www.hf.uio.no. Colonna 1, tel. 0636000723,www.istitutopolacco.it. CULTURAL INSTITUTE

The German Academy offers German artists, writers, musicians GERMAN ACADEMY GERMAN HISTORICAL INSTITUTE and architects the opportunity to study in Rome. Largo di Villa The German Academy offers German artists, writers, musicians ThisMassimo institute conducts research into the history of Germany 1, tel. 064425931, www.deutsche-kultur-international.de. and architects opportunity study in Rome. both Largocountries. di Villa Via and Italy, the in particular the to relations between HISTORICAL INSTITUTE Massimo 1,GERMAN tel.Antica 064425931, www.deutsche-kultur-international.de. Aurelia 391, tel. 066604921, www.dhi-roma.it.

Institution dedicated to Polish history and culture as well as the POLISH CULTURAL INSTITUTE POLISH ACADEMY OF SCIENCE promotion of dialogue between Poland and Italy. Via Vittoria Institution dedicated to Polish history and culture as well as the and The Polish Academy is a research centre for the humanities Colonna 1, tel. 0636000723,www.istitutopolacco.it. promotion of dialogue between Poland and Italy. Vittoria a scientific exchange between Poland and Italy.Via Vicolo Doria 2, POLISH OF SCIENCE Colonna 1, ACADEMY tel. 0636000723,www.istitutopolacco.it. tel. 066792170, www.accademiapolacca.it.

GERMAN HISTORICAL INSTITUTE GOETHE INSTITUT and Italy, in particular the relations between both countries. Via Antica 391, tel. 066604921, This institute conducts research into thewww.dhi-roma.it. history of Germany The Aurelia Goethe Institut promotes education in Italy about German and Italy, in particular the relations between both 15, countries. Via culture, language and history. Via Savoia tel. 068440051, GOETHE INSTITUT www.goethe.de. Aurelia Antica 391, tel.Institut 066604921, www.dhi-roma.it. The Goethe promotes education in Italy about German

POLISH ACADEMY OF SCIENCE ROMANIAN ACADEMY a scientific exchange between Poland and Italy. Vicolo Doria 2, 066792170, www.accademiapolacca.it. Thetel.Polish Academy is a research centre for the The Romanian Academy hosts events andhumanities promotes and cultural a scientific exchange between Poland and Italy. Doria 2, relations between Romania and Italy. PiazzaVicolo Josè di S. Martin 1, ROMANIAN ACADEMY tel.Romanian 063201594, www.accadromania.it. tel.The 066792170, www.accademiapolacca.it. Academy hosts events and promotes cultural

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This institute conducts research into the history of Germany

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relations between RomaniaOF andCULTURE Italy. PiazzaAND Josè LANGUAGE di S. Martin 1, RUSSIAN INSTITUTE ROMANIAN ACADEMY tel. 063201594, www.accadromania.it. The Russian Institutehosts provides classes Russian language The Romanian Academy events and inpromotes cultural and RUSSIAN INSTITUTE OF LANGUAGE culture. Via Farini 62,CULTURE tel. relations between Romania and064870137. Italy.AND Piazza Josè di S. Martin 1, Russian Institute provides classes in Russian language and tel.The 063201594, www.accadromania.it. SPANISH ACADEMY culture. Via Farini 62, tel. 064870137. events and exhibitions by Hungarian artists and scholars. Via The Spanish Academy hosts artists many fields of study and INSTITUTO CERVANTES RUSSIAN INSTITUTE OF CULTURE ANDinLANGUAGE HUNGARIAN GiuliaACADEMY 1, tel. 066889671, www.roma.balassiintezet.hu. SPANISH ACADEMY holds events thatprovides provide classes a cultural bridge between Instituto Cervantes is aincultural institution createdliterary to promote The Russian Institute in Russian languageSpain and and The Academy of Hungary Rome hosts concerts, The Spanish Academy hosts artists in many fields of study and INSTITUTO CERVANTES Italy. Piazza S.62, Pietro in Montorio 3, tel. 065818607, www.raer.it. teaching of Spanish and culture. Via dito Villa Via Farini tel. 064870137. eventsthe and exhibitions by Hungarian andcreated scholars. ViaAlbani culture. holds events that provide a cultural bridge between Spain and Instituto Cervantes islanguage a culturalartists institution promote tel. 068551949, www.cervantes.es. Giulia16, 1, tel. www.roma.balassiintezet.hu. Italy. Piazza S. INSTITUTE Pietro in Montorio 3, tel. 065818607, www.raer.it. the066889671, teaching of Spanish language and culture. Via di Villa Albani SWEDISH OF CLASSICAL STUDIES SPANISH ACADEMY 16, CERVANTES tel.INSTITUTE 068551949, www.cervantes.es. The Swedish Institute isartists a research centre dedicated scientiITALIAN FOR LATIN AMERICA TheSWEDISH Spanish Academy hosts in many fields of studytoand INSTITUTO INSTITUTE OF CLASSICAL STUDIES fic research in is arta aresearch and archaeology. ViatoOmero 14, tel. TheCervantes Italo-Latin Institute facilitates into the holds The Swedish Institute centre dedicated scientiITALIAN INSTITUTE FOR LATIN AMERICA events that provide cultural bridge between Spain and Instituto isAmerican a cultural institution createdresearch to promote fic 063201596, research inwww.isvroma.it. artin and archaeology. Via Omero www.raer.it. 14, tel. TheofItalo-Latin American Institute facilitates into the cultural, scientific, economic and social aspects Italy and Italy. Piazza S. Pietro Montorio 3, tel. 065818607, the teaching Spanish language and culture. Via diresearch Villaof Albani 063201596, www.isvroma.it. cultural, scientific, economic social aspects of Italy American countries. ViaandGiovanni Paisiello 24,and tel. 16, tel.Latin 068551949, www.cervantes.es. SWISSINSTITUTE INSTITUTEOF CLASSICAL STUDIES SWEDISH Latin American countries. Via Giovanni Paisiello 24, tel. 06684921, www.iila.org. The INSTITUTE Swiss Institute offers exhibitions, events and classes TheSWISS Swedish Institute is a research centre dedicated to scientiITALIAN INSTITUTE FOR LATIN AMERICA 06684921, www.iila.org. The Swiss Institute offers exhibitions, events and classes dedicatedinto art the and culture of Switzerland. Ludovisi 48, tel. JAPANESEAmerican CULTURAL INSTITUTE fic research archaeology. Via Via Omero 14, tel. The Italo-Latin Institute facilitates research into the dedicated to the culture of Switzerland. Via Ludovisi 48, tel. JAPANESE CULTURAL INSTITUTE 064814234, www.istitutosvizzero.it. Thescientific, Japanese economic Cultural Institute hosts hostsofregular cultural 063201596, www.isvroma.it. cultural, social aspects Italy and 064814234, www.istitutosvizzero.it. The Japanese Cultural and Institute hosts hosts regular cultural andand also offers courses ininJapanese. Via Gramsci 74,tel. tel. Latin events American countries. Via Giovanni Paisiello 24, tel. events also offers courses Japanese. Via Gramsci 74, SWISS INSTITUTE 063224754, www.jfroma.it. 06684921, www.iila.org. 063224754, www.jfroma.it. The Swiss Institute offers exhibitions, events and classes dedicated to the culture of Switzerland. Via Ludovisi 48, tel. JAPANESE CULTURAL INSTITUTE 064814234, www.istitutosvizzero.it. The Japanese Cultural Institute hosts hosts regular cultural events and also offers courses in Japanese. Via Gramsci 74, tel. 063224754, www.jfroma.it. culture, language and history. Via Savoia 15, tel. 068440051, HUNGARIAN ACADEMY GOETHE INSTITUT www.goethe.de. The Academy of Hungary in Rome hostsabout concerts, literary The Goethe Institut promotes education in Italy German HUNGARIAN events and exhibitions by Via Hungarian artists scholars. Via culture, language and ACADEMY history. Savoia 15, tel. and 068440051, The Academy of Hungary in Rome hosts concerts, literary Giulia 1, tel. 066889671, www.roma.balassiintezet.hu. www.goethe.de.

Wanted in Rome • april 2017 | 4

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ROME'S MAJOR

MUSEUMS VATICAN MUSEUMS Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums

Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

STATE MUSEUMS Baths of Diocletian

Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Borghese Museum

Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

22 | November 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Crypta Balbi

Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's modern art collection. Mon closed.

MAXXI

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.

MA in ART HISTORY in ROME A 15-MONTH AMERICAN GRADUATE DEGREE PROGRAM IN THE ETERNAL CITY

www.johncabot.edu/arthistoryma graduateadmissions@johncabot.edu Senza titolo-2 1

22/10/19 16:46

Join us on Your Journey

ROME'S MAJOR

MUSEUMS VATICAN MUSEUMS

Crypta Balbi

Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums

STATE MUSEUMS Baths of Diocletian

Borghese Museum

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

MAXXI

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Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Via di Villa Lauchli 180 Colosseum, Roman 00191 Rome, Italyforum and Palatine Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza +39 06 362 91012 di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. www.marymountrome.com Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and admissions@marymountrome.com Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

24 | November 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS Casa di Goethe

CITY MUSEUMS

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Centrale Montemartini

Chiostro Del Bramante

Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun.

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Galleria Colonna

Capitoline Museums

Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

MACRO Asilo

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space until the end of 2019. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.

MATTATOIO

Giorgio de Chirico House Museum

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking.

Keats-Shelley House

Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking.

Museo storico della Liberazione

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it. Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from 1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.

Museo Canonica

MUSJA

Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).

Museo Napoleonico

Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.

Privately owned museum dedicated to modern and contemporary Italian and international art. Via dei Chiavari 7, tel. 0668210213, www.musja.it.

Palazzo Merulana

Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it. Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection, including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation. 09.00-20.00. Tues closed.

Wanted in Rome • November 2019 | 25

ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY

ART GALLERIES

1/9 Unosunove

1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.

A.A.M. Architettura

Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ff-maam.it.

Contemporary Cluster

Visual art, design, architecture, fashion design and beauty apothecary in a 17th-century palace. Via dei Barbieri 7, tel. 0668805928, www.contemporarycluster.com.

C.R.E.T.A.

Cultural association promoting ceramics and the visual, humanistic, musical and culinary arts through workshops, exhibitions and artist residencies. Palazzo Delfini, Via dei Delfini 17, tel. 0689827701, www.cretarome.com.

Dorothy Circus Gallery

Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.

Ex Elettrofonica

This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.

Fondazione Memmo

Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.

Fondazione Pastificio Cerere

This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pastificiocerere.com.

Fondazione Volume!

The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.

26 | November 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Franz Paludetto

Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.

Frutta

This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via dei Salumi 53 tel. 0645508934, www.fruttagallery.com.

Gagosian Gallery

The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

GALLA

Exhibition space designed to showcase original, unconventional art works at affordable prices by artists working in various fields. Via degli Zingari 28, tel. 3476552515, www.facebook.com/GALLAmonti.

Galleria Alessandro Bonomo

Gallery showing the works of important Italian and international visual artists. Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858, www.bonomogallery.com.

Galleria Valentina Bonomo

Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works specifically for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte

Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Galleria della Tartaruga

Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.

Galleria Il Segno

Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.

Galleria Mucciaccia

Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.

Galleria Russo

Operativa Arte Contemporanea

A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.

Pian de Giullari

This historic gallery holds group and solo exhibitions showcasing the work of major 20th-century Italian painters alongside promising new Italian artists. Via Alibert 20, tel. 066789949, www.galleriarusso.it.

Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.

Galleria Varsi

Plus Arte Puls

A dynamic gallery near Campo deâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di Grotta Pinta 38, tel. 066865415, www.galleriavarsi.it.

Gavin Brown's Enterprise

New York gallerist Gavin Brown shows the work of international artists at his Trastevere gallery in a deconsecrated church dating to the eighth century. S. Andrea de Scaphis, Via dei Vascellari 69, www.gavinbrown.biz.

Il Ponte Contemporanea

Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls.com.

RvB ARTS

Rome-based gallery specialising in affordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www.rvbarts.com.

Sala 1

Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via Giuseppe Acerbi 31A, tel. 0653098768, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.

This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.

La Nuova Pesa

S.T. Foto libreria galleria

Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.

Magazzino dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Arte Moderna

Contemporary art gallery that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.

Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri

The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.

T293

Monitor

The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it.

Nero Gallery

The Gallery Apart

Space dedicated to showcasing young international artists working in pop surrealism, lowbrow art, dark art, comic art and surrealism. Via Castruccio Castracane 9, tel. 0627801418, www.nerogallery.com.

This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.

Nomas Foundation

TraleVolte

This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, tel. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.

Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.

Contemporary art gallery focusing on the relationship between art and architecture, hosting solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org.

White Noise Gallery

Based in the S. Lorenzo district, this gallery exhibits unconventional work by young Italian and international artists. Via della Seggiola 9, tel. 066832833, www.whitenoisegallery.it.

Wunderkammern

This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www.wunderkammern.net.

Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin

Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria offers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it. Wanted in Rome â&#x20AC;˘ November 2019 | 27

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Robert Carsen directs Idomeneo, re di Creta at Teatro dell'Opera di Roma. Photo Fabrizio Sansoni. See page 31. Wanted in Rome â&#x20AC;˘ November 2019 | 29

FESTIVALS

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EXHIBITIONS

EXHIBITIONS CORRADO CAGLI: FOLGORAZIONI E MUTAZIONI 8 Nov-6 Jan An exhibition at Palazzo Cipolla is dedicated to the Italian painter Corrado

Cagli

(1910-1976),

remembered for forming the Scuola Romana art movement in the 1930s. The show features around 200 works including paintings, drawings,

sculptures,

sketches,

theatrical costumes, tapestries and prints. Museo di Palazzo Cipolla, Via del Corso 320, tel 0697625591.

VALADIER: SPLENDORE NELLA ROMA DEL SETTECENTO 30 Oct-2 Feb

Galleria Borghese pays tribute to the 18th-century Roman silversmith Luigi Valadier with an exhibition of his ornate creations in silver and bronze alongside his original designs. The location of the exhibition is appropriate considering that Valadier was commissioned by the Borghese family to provide sumptuous furnishings for the palace, from fireplaces and furniture to tableware and bronze sculptures. Galleria Borghese, Piazzale Scipione

Borghese, tel. 068413979, www. galleriaborghese.beniculturali.it.

ALTAN: PIMPA, CIPPUTI E ALTRI PENSATORI 23 Oct-12 Jan

MAXXI dedicates a major exhibition to the Italian cartoonist and satirist Altan, best known for creating Pimpa, the red and white polkadot cartoon puppy, and Cipputi, the factory worker comic strip character. The exhibition will comprise original drawings, illustrations, posters and animated films. MAXXI, Via Guido Reni 4A, www.maxxi.art.

LA MECCANICA DEI MOSTRI. DA CARLO RAMBALDI A MAKINARIUM 22 Oct-6 Jan

Palazzo delle Esposizioni celebrates the career of Oscar-winning Italian special effects artist Carlo Rambaldi (1925-2012). Rambaldi won Academy Awards for Best Visual Effects for King Kong in 1977, Alien in 1980, and E.T. the ExtraTerrestrial in 1983. The exhibition displays material from Rambaldi’s private archive to highlight the role of special effects in Italian and international cinema, from the 1960s to the present-day works of the world-renowned Makinarium special effects group. Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Via Nazionale

BRANDI MILNE: ONLY IN DREAMS 19 Oct-19 Nov

Corrado Cagli at Palazzo Cipolla. Tripudio, 1973. Courtesy Frittelli arte contemporanea, Firenze. Crediti fotografici: Claudia Cataldi, Prato.

Dorothy Circus Gallery presents the first European show by the American artist Brandi Milne whose work is influenced by music and the cartoon world. Milne’s bittersweet works address themes of anxiety, fear and loss, and are inspired by Disney characters, Gumby and Pokey, vintage decorations, the music of Elton John and the writings from Jack Kerouac. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.it. Wanted in Rome • November 2019 | 31

ON THE SPIRITUAL MATTER OF ART 17 Oct-8 March

An exhibition at MAXXI of work by leading international artists from diverse backgrounds and cultures asks: “What does it mean today to talk about spirituality?” The show is the result of a project that investigates spirituality through the lens of contemporary art and, at the same time, that of the ancient history of Rome, thanks to a selection of archaeological relics on loan from the Vatican Museums, the National Roman Museum, the Capitoline Museums and the National Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia. The artists whose work is exhibited include Francesco Clemente, Jimmie Durham, Yoko Ono and Sean Scully. MAXXI, Via Guido Reni 4A, www.maxxi.art.

ENZO CUCCHI 17 Oct-26 Jan

MAXXI presents a project by Enzo Cucchi, the internationally celebrated artist and leading exponent of Italian Transavanguardia, part of a worldwide Neo-Expressionist art movement. Cucchi’s project is centred around a cheerful cupid at play, threatened by a poisonous scorpion, in an allegorical work merging art and legend, science and astrology, occult and mystery. Described by MAXXI as an “extraordinary inventor of powerful and enigmatic images”, Cucchi’s work featured on a Wanted in Rome magazine cover in 2011. MAXXI, Via Guido Reni 4A, www.maxxi.art.

Palazzo Esposizioni celebrates Carlo Rambaldi. Photo © Fondazione Culturale Carlo Rambaldi.

his life and have never been shown in Europe. The sculptures of human figures belong to the series MOLTINGSEXOSKELETONSSHROUDS, made of Belgian linen soaked in resin and placed over models to take on their form, and Boustrophedons, made from carbon fibre. Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, www. gallerianazionale.com.

JAN FABRE: THE RYTHYM OF THE BRAIN 11 Oct-23 Feb

In conjunction with the Romaeuropa Festival, Palazzo Merulana stages an exhibition of work by the multidisciplinary Belgian artist Jan Fabre. The exhibition will feature site-specific sculptures as well as drawings and performance film, displayed among the museum’s 20th-century Italian paintings.

Palazzo Merulana, Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www. palazzomerulana.it.

POMPEII AND SANTORINI 11 Oct-6 Jan

This exhibition at the Scuderie del Quirinale features artefacts from the excavations of Akrotiri, a thriving port city on the Greek island of Santorini that was buried by a volcanic eruption in 1628 BC. The Hellenistic finds will be constrasted with those from Pompeii, which came to a similarly devastating end some 1,700 years later, in 79 AD. In addition to fragments of frescoes, jewels, ceramics and furniture, the exhibition will include works by modern and contemporary artists including J. M. W. Turner, Renato Guttuso, Andy Warhol, Alberto Burri, Giuseppe Penone and

MO(NU)MENTUM: ROBERT MORRIS 2015 - 2018 15 Oct-26 Jan

The Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna holds the first Robert Morris show since the death of the American artist in November 2018. Best known as a founding member and leading exponent of American Minimalism, Morris was involved in various other movements such as Land art over the course of his 60-year career. The works on display in Rome were produced in the final years of

On the Spiritual Matter of Art at MAXXI. Elisabetta Di Maggio, Greetings from Venice, 2018. Photo Francesco Allegretto, courtesy Galleria Christian Stein, Milan.

Wanted in Rome • November 2019 | 33

Damian Hirst, highlighting how the rediscovery of buried cities has inspired artists down through the centuries. Scuderie del Quirinale, Via Ventiquattro Maggio 16, www. scuderiequirinale.it.

MICHELANGELO A COLORI 11 Oct-6 Jan

Palazzo Barberini displays reproductions of a series of drawings by Michelangelo alongside paintings by some of his most important followers such as Marcello Venusti, Lelio Orsi, Marco Pino and Jacopino del Conte. The focus of the exhibition is the degree to which Michelangelo influenced a multitude of artists in the 16th century. Palazzo Barberini, Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. www.barberinicorsini.org.

MEDARDO ROSSO 9 Oct-2 Feb

Palazzo Altemps shows the postImpressionistic sculptures of Medardo Rosso (1858-1928) among its collection of classical Greek and Roman sculpture. The museum is the first in Rome to honour the Turin artist with an exhibition which features works in wax, plaster and bronze alongside archive photographs. Piazza di S. Apollinare 46, tel. 06684851, www.museonazionaleromano. beniculturali.it.

CANOVA: ETERNA BELLEZZA 9 Oct-15 March

Palazzo Braschi stages an exhibition of works by Italian neoclassical

sculptor Antonio Canova (17571822), regarded by many as the greatest of the neoclassical artists. Canova is best known for his magnificent marble sculptures such as Amore e Psiche, Tre Grazie and Paolina Borghese. The exhibition includes more than 170 works by Canova and his contemporaries. Piazza Navona 2, tel. 060608, www.museodiroma.it.

THE DARK SIDE 8 Oct-1 March

Musja, the new private museum in central Rome, launches with a trilogy of exhibitions curated by the former MACRO director Danilo Eccher, who recently curated several successful shows at Chiostro del Bramante. The exhibition series, titled The Dark Side, begins with Who is afraid of the dark? featuring large site-specific installations and works by 13 important international artists including Gregor Schneider, Robert Longo, Hermann Nitsch, Tony Oursler, Monster Chetwynd, Christian Boltanski and Gino De Dominicis. See Art News page 36. Musja, Via dei Chiavari 7, tel. 0668210213, www.musja.it.

SECRET IMPRESSIONISTS 6 Oct-8 March

Palazzo Bonaparte, a major new exhibition space located where Via del Corso meets Piazza Venezia, launches with an exhibition comprising more than 50 works from important private collections. The works, mostly never shown in public before, are by Monet,

Jan Fabre at Palazzo Merulana. Photo Coopculture.

Renoir, Cézanne, Pissarro, Sisley, Morisot, Gauguin and Signac. Generali Valore Cultura, Palazzo Bonaparte, Piazza Venezia 5, www. palazzobonaparte.it.

DA SKETCH A MURO 5 Oct-16 Nov

Rome’s Rosso20sette Arte Contemporanea gallery presents a show highlighting the work of some of the most important protagonists of street art in Italy: Jim Avignon, Lucamaleonte, Beau Stanton, David Diavù Vecchiato and Nicola Verlato. The exhibition celebrates the complex artistic process and evolution behind well-known Rome murals, including Verlato’s Hostia dedicated to Pier Paolo Pasolini (2015) Lucamaleonte’s Wasp’s Nest (2014) and one of Diavù’s most recent murals, Appia-Latina. Galleria 20sette Arte contemporanea, Via del Sudario 39, www.rosso27.com.

CARTHAGO: THE IMMORTAL MYTH 27 Sept-29 March

The history and culture of Carthage, one of the most powerful cities of the ancient Mediterranean, is celebrated with a large-scale exhibition at the Colosseum, the Temple of Romulus and the Roman Forum. On display are precious artefacts on loan from national archaeological museums in Italy as well as the Carthage National Museum and the Bardo in Tunisia, and the national museums of Beirut, Madrid and Cartagena. The exhibition also features reconstructions and multimedia installations, highlighting a series of historical events that unite the two great powers of the ancient world. Carthage was destroyed by the Roman Republic in the Third Punic War in 146 BC before being redeveloped as Roman Carthage, which became the major city of the Roman Empire in the province of Africa. For details see www. parcocolosseo.it.

LA SCUOLA DI LONDRA: OPERE DELLA TATE 26 Sept-23 Feb

Chiostro del Bramante hosts a major exhibition dedicated to the

34 | November 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Michelangelo a colori at Palazzo Barberini. L’Orazione nell’orto, 1545-60, by Marcello Venusti.

School of London, featuring paintings by Lucian Freud and Francis Bacon, organised in collaboration with the Tate Britain in London. The exhibition comprises 45 paintings, drawings and engravings by six artists: Michael Andrews, Frank Auerbach, Leon Kossoff and Paula Rego, in addition to Freud and Bacon. The figurative works span more than seven decades, from 1945 until 2004. See review page 4. Chiostro del Bramante, Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www. chiostrodelbramante.it.

TRACEY EMIN: LEAVING 21 Sept-20 Nov

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill presents its sixth exhibition dedicated to British contemporary artist Tracey Emin who shot to international fame in 1998 with her controversial installation My Bed. Born in 1963, Emin is a leading figure of the Young British Artists movement - a loose group of visual artists who began exhibiting together in London in 1988. Her Rome exhibition comprises

new paintings and works on paper. Galleria Lorcan O’Neill, Vicolo Dei Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www. lorcanoneill.com.

COLORI DEGLI ETRUSCHI 11 July-2 Feb

Centrale Montemartini holds an exhibition of terracotta treasures from the Etruscan era from the Cerveteri area of north Lazio. The plates and decorative architectural mouldings were recently returned to Italy after a joint operation by the Carabinieri and the culture ministry to combat the illegal trafficking of archaeological finds. Centrale Montemartini, Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www. centralemontemartini.org.

AI NATI OGGI 2 July-31 Dec

Chi ha paura del buio? at Musja.

A public art project in Piazza del Popolo celebrates the “universal event of birth”, according to its organisers the MAXXI Museo Nazionale delle Arti XXI secolo. Entitled Ai nati oggi, the installation by artist Alberto Garutti revolves around the square’s lampposts being connected to the maternity ward at Rome’s Gemelli hospital. Each time the light pulses – for about 30 seconds – it signifies the birth of a baby. MAXXI says the Wanted in Rome • November 2019 | 35

Da Sketch a MURo at Rosso20sette. Lucamaleonte.

installation is dedicated to each new arrival and all newly-born babies that day in Rome. For details see MAXXI website, www.maxxi.art.

MARIA LAI. HOLDING THE SUN BY THE HAND 19 June-12 Jan

On the centerary of the artist’s birth, MAXXI devotes a major exhibition to Maria Lai (1919-2013), considered one of the more individual figures in Italian contemporary art. The show comprises more than 100 works spanning from the 1960s through to her final years, and includes sewn books, sculptures, public works and her celebrated “looms”. Lai represented Italy at the Venice Biennale in 2017. MAXXI, Via Guido Reni 4A, www.maxxi.art.

L’ARTE RITROVATA 7 June-26 Jan

The Capitoline Museums mark the 50th anniversary of the establishment of the special Carabinieri unit for the protection of cultural heritage with

36 | November 2019 • Wanted in Rome

an exhibition of looted archaeological and artistic treasures returned to Italy. Highlights include a painting of John the Baptist by Guercino, frescoes torn from a Roman villa in the Pompeii area, and bronzes excavated illegally in southern Italy. Palazzo dei Conservatori, Capitoline Museums, Piazza del Campidoglio 1, tel. 060608, www. museicapitolini.org.

See other exhibitions on our website www.wantedinrome.com.

ELISABETTA CATALANO 3 April-22 Dec

The MAXXI pays homage to Elisabetta Catalano (1944-2015), a Roman fine-art photographer who specialised in portraits. The exhibition features slides, photos and vintage prints, investigating in particular the relationship between Catalano’s photography and performance art, presenting portraits of artists such as Joseph Beuys, Fabio Mauri, Vettor Pisani and Cesare Tacchi during the preparatory phases of the performative process. Museo nazionale delle arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4A, www. maxxi.art.

Medardo Rosso at Palazzo Altemps. Ecce puer (1906) Milano, Galleria d’Arte Moderna © Comune di Milano.

The Polish pianist Piotr Anderszewski performs at Teatro Argentina for the Accademia Filarmonica Romana on 28 Nov.

CLASSICAL ACCADEMIA FILARMONICA ROMANA FILIPPO GAMBA SOL GABETTA, NELSON GOERNER 7 Nov

This concert of music by Brahms, Frank and Schubert performed by cellist Sol Gabetta and pianist Nelson Goerner starts the Accademia’s concert season at Teatro Argentina. For more details of the 2019-2020 season see www.filarmonicaromana.org.

QUARTETTO LYSKAMM 10 Nov

This concert of music by Bartok, Beethoven and Casale is part of the series of all 18 of Beethoven’s string quartets and Bartok’s six quartets performed by the Quartetto Lyskamm, which was founded in Milan in 2008 and is now in residence at the Accademia Filarmonica Romana for the next three seasons. Their recording of Bartok’s 4th and 6th quartet was released by Amadeus earlier this year. Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Sala Casella, Via Flaminia 118, www.filarmonicaromana.org.

14 Nov

Pianist Filippo Gamba plays music by Beethoven Brahms and Debussy. The soloist performs with many Austrian and German orchestras, as well as the City of Birmingham Orchestra conducted by Simon Rattle. Teatro Argentina, Largo Argentina, www.filarmonicaromana.org.

CHOPIN AND RACHMANINOFF 17 Nov

Pianist Stefano Andreatta plays music by Chopin and Rachmaninoff. The concert is in collaboration with S. Cecilia. Sala Casella, Via Flaminia 118. www.filarmonicaromana.org.

PIOTR ANDERSZEWSKI 28 Nov

There are often surprises at Piotr Anderszewski’s concerts. If he isn’t satisfied with his own high standards he has been known to walk out. And once he replayed a Bach piece he had performed at the start of the concert as an encore at

the end because he didn’t feel he had played it well enough the first time. He is very selective in the invitations he accepts and will often refuse recitals unless he is really interested. A couple of years ago he took a sabbatical from performing and made a film about Warsaw, his birth place, called Je m’appelle Varsoie. In this concert he will play music by Bach, Beethoven and Schumann. This autumn he has a full schedule with recitals throughout Europe as well as the USA and Russia, including four engagements in Italy (Florence, Rome, Bari and Turin). Teatro Argentina, Largo Argentina, www.filarmonicaromana.org.

ACCADEMIA S. CECILIA MARTHA ARGERICH 31 Oct- 2 Nov

Martha Argerich interprets Chopin, conducted by Antonio Pappano. Works by Weber and Schumann are also on the programme. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com. Wanted in Rome • November 2019 | 37

JURAJ VALCUHA EMMANUEL TJEKNAVORIAN 15-17 Nov

The young Austrian-Armenian violinist plays Khachturian’s concerto for violin with the S. Cecilia orchestra conducted by Juraj Valcuha. Two pieces by Prokovief are also on the programme. The violin concerto is one of Khachturian’s most famous works and was composed for violinist David Oistrakh in Moscow in 1940 and was influenced by the composer’s Armenian heritage. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

BEATRICE RANA 20 Nov

In this recital pianist Beatrice Rana will play works by Chopin, Alneniz and Stravinsky. Sala S. Cecilia, Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

DAVID AFKHAM 21-23 Nov

in The Prelude and the Death of Isotta in Wagner’s Tristan and Isolde, as well as the Italian premiere of Magnus Lindberg’s Triumph to Exist and Brahms’ symphony no 3. Lindberg composed Triumph to Exist for choir and orchestra inspired by several poems by Swedish-speaking Finnish poet Edith Södergran, who died in Russia from tuberculosis when she was 31. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

CUARTETO CASALS ALEXANDER LONQUICH 27 Nov

The Cuarteto Casals performs a Beethoven string quartet (no 11) from the composer’s middle period, a Mozart’s quartet for piano and strings and a Schumann quintet with pianist Alexander Casals. Sala Sinopoli, Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

VERDI’S REQUIEM

David Afkham, one of Germany’s most sought-after conductors, leads the S. Cecilia orchestra and chorus

28 Nov-2 Dec

Mikko Franck conducts Verdi’s Requiem, with solists Eleonora Buratto, Ekaterina Semenchu, Rene Barbera and Ain Anger. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

ISTITUZIONE UNIVERSITARIO DEI CONCERTI BESTEMMIA D’AMORE 5 Nov

Pippo Delbono and Enzo Avitabile transform words into music, exploring opposites such as love and hate, the vulgar and the sacred, darkness and light, harshness and gentleness. Concerts are at the Aula Magna, Università La Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it.

DOMENICO NORDIO MIKHAIL LIDSKY 9 Nov

Violinist Domenico Nordio and pianist Mikhail Lidsky play music

Beatrice Rana for S. Cecilia.

by Mendelssohn, Beethoven and Prokovieff. Aula Magna, Università La Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it.

TALLIS SCHOLARS 16 Nov

The Tallis Scholars directed by Peter Philips return to Rome with a concert of sacred music titled “Intorno alla Cappella Sistina.” Two pieces by contemporary composers, Alexander Campkin’s Miserere mei and Justine Rapaccioli’s Quae est ista, are being performed in Rome for the first time. Campkin’s work was commissioned by the Tallis Scholars and the young composer says that it was inspired by Allegri’s Miserere, which is being performed in the same programme. Rapaccioli is the deputy conductor of the Cappella Marciana, the choir of St Mark’s basilica in Venice, and is the first woman to hold the post in the choir’s 700-year history. Aula Magna, Università La Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it.

CLAIRE HUANGCI 12 Nov

Makes her piano debut in Rome a concert of music by Scarlatti, Schubert and Rachmaninov. Huangci, the American classical pianist, has recently recorded the complete Rachmaninov preludes for Berlin Classics, her fourth solo album. Aula Magna, Università La Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it.

OTHER VENUES IN ROME The Oratorio Gonfalone has concerts every Thursday evening in the beautiful church on Via del Gonfalone 32 A, just off Via Giulia. This season it is also organising concerts and guided art tours on 23 Nov and 14 Dec. www.oratoriogonfalone.eu Some of Rome’s English speaking churches, such as St Paul’s within the Walls, All Saints’ Anglican church, Ponte S. Angelo Methodist church and the Oratorio Caravita also have concerts and opera recitals. S. Agnese in Agone in Piazza Navona and Palazzo Doria Pamphilj are two other places that often offer concerts and opera recitals. See romaoperaomnia.com.

Mika returns to the Palalottomattica.

ROCK, POP, JAZz

MIKA

27 Nov

JETHRO TULL

RICKIE LEE JONES

Veteran British rock band Jethro Tull, fronted by pioneering musician Ian Anderson, performs at the Auditorium Parco della Musica. Anderson is best known for his dynamic live flute performances with the band that has embraced sounds ranging from folk to prog rock since its formation in 1967. The group has sold 65 million records and played more than 3,000 concerts in 40 countries. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via P. de Coubertin 30, tel. 06802411, www.auditorium.com.

American singer-songwriter Rickie Lee Jones plays at the Auditorium Parco della Musica on 16 November. Over the course of her five-decade career, Jones has recorded in various musical styles including rock, R&B, blues, pop, soul and jazz, and has won two Grammy Awards. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via P. de Coubertin 30, tel. 06802411, www.auditorium.com.

7 Nov

16 Nov

British singer-songwriter Mika returns to Rome’s Palalottomatica, following his last concert there in 2015. The pop star’s first full-length studio album Life in Cartoon Motion, released in 2006, sold more than five million copies worldwide and helped him win a Brit Award for Best British Breakthrough act. The singer is known for his upbeat style and songs such as Grace Kelly and We Are Golden. Palalottomatica, Piazzale Pier Luigi Nervi 1, tel. 06540901, www.palazzodellosportroma.it.

Ian Anderson of Jethro Tull performs at the Auditorium Parco della Musica.

GLEN HANSARD 12 Nov

Acclaimed Irish singer-songwriter Glen Hansard performs at the Auditorium Parco della Musica as part of This Wild Willing tour. Best known as the lead singer with Dublin group The Frames, and one half of folk rock duo The Swell Season, Hansard shot to international fame with his Oscar-winning song Falling Slowly, performed with Markéta Irglová in the musical romance Once. Auditorium Parco Della Musica, Via P. de Coubertin 30, tel. 06802411, www. auditorium.com. Wanted in Rome • November 2019 | 39

New MACRO director Luca Lo Pinto

ART NEWS NEW DIRECTOR AT MACRO

Luca Lo Pinto, current director at the Kunsthalle in Vienna, has been appointed as the new director of Rome’s MACRO, the Museo d’Arte Contemporanea on Via Nizza, following a public tender issued by the city. The appointment of Lo Pinto, who was born in 1981 and lives between Rome and Vienna, means that the current MACRO director Giorgio de Finis will not be reappointed once his term finishes at the end of this year. A co-founder of the magazine and publishing house Nero, Lo Pinto has written for numerous international art magazines and curated exhibitions in prestigious venues including the XVI Quadriennale d’arte in 2016 (at Palazzo delle Esposizioni in Rome), in addition to the Kunsthalle. Lo Pinto’s arrival after a “long and careful selection of candidates”, according to the city, is in marked contrast to the controversial appointment of de Finis, an old school friend of Rome’s deputy mayor Luca Bergamo, a member of the populist Movimento 5 Stelle. During his tenure at the helm of MACRO, de Finis opened the doors to contemporary artists, both amateur and professional, as part of the radical 15-month “Asilo” project which was free to the public. However after a dynamic start the museum slipped out of the spotlight and de Finis – as largely predicted – failed to convince a mistrusting art establishment. Bergamo thanked de Finis for pushing the boundaries of the role played by art museums but acknowledged that Asilo had not been without its critics.

40 | November 2019 • Wanted in Rome

COLLU RECONFIRMED AS GNAM DIRECTOR

Cristiana Collu has been reconfirmed for another four years as director of the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea di Roma (GNAM) by Italy’s newly-returned culture minister Dario Franceschini. Praising Collu’s work to date, Franceschini said she has “returned the gallery to centre stage through a broad process of research, safeguarding, enhancement and experimentation.” Collu has rearranged the gallery’s entire collection as well as being credited with making the gallery more accessible to new, younger visitors.

NEW PRIVATE ART MUSEUMS IN ROME

This autumn was an exciting time in Rome from a cultural perspective, with the opening of three important new privately-run exhibition venues. La Fondazione is a non-profit cultural space for contemporary art, inaugurated by Nicola Del Roscio, president of the Cy Twombly Foundation, and located in a large basement premises below the Gagosian Gallery on Via Francesco Crispi. The recently-restored Palazzo Bonaparte, owned by Italy’s largest insurance company Generali Italia and run in partnership with the exhibitionorganising firm Arthemisia, launched in Piazza Venezia with a blockbuster Impressionist show. Musja, owned by Roman entrepreneur and collector Ovidio Jacorossi, is devoted to contemporary Italian and international art, and opened on Via dei Chiavari, near Campo de’ Fiori, with the exhibition Chi ha paura del buio? Andy Devane

Supplementary health care, innell’ambito the context of L’assitenza sanitaria integrativa, della employment contract national negotiation, contrattazione aziendale or e nazionale, ha assunto, has played a leading rolediinassoluto recent years. It has negli ultimi anni un ruolo rilievo quale become an foraziende employers to manstrumento cheinstrument permette alle di azionare in age their salary lapolicies in an innovative way, modo innovativo leva delle politiche retributive increasing both productivity their employper incrementare, al contempo,and la produttività e la ees’ satisfaction, by reducing fiscalla riduzione pressure soddisfazione dei dipendenti, attraverso della pressione employees’ fiscale e l’incremento del power. potere and boosting purchasing d’acquisto dei lavoratori. Infatti, la cronica The National Health Service (SSN), sofferenza which is del Servizioable Sanitario Nazionale che non regge no longer to cope with the pressure of più the l’urto popolazione, laof croagingdell’invecchiamento of the population, della the entrenchment illnicizzazione dei costi, si nesses and delle risingmalattie costs,eisl’aumento increasingly in difdimostra sempre piùtoinguarantee affanno nel garantiremedipreficulty when trying excellent stazioni sanitarie in tempi ragionevoli, cocal services in di a livello, reasonable time frame. This stringendo i cittadinitoa accept lunghe file d’attesa, volte is forcing citizens long waitinga times anche per interventi di routine, che rendono spesso even for routine treatment, which often creates il bilancio familiare insostenibile. Ergo il ricorso alle an unbearable burden on the family finances. strutture private che, senza un’assistenza integraThus patients are turning to private structures tiva, sono costretti a pagare di tasca propria. that, without supplementary health coverage, Dal 2009 anche il Fasi (Fondo di Assistenza Sanitathey are forced to pay out of their own pocket. ria Integrativa per dirigenti industriali, nato nel 1977 Fasi (the Assistance Fund for industrial sulla baseMedical di un accordo tra Confindustria e Federmanagers)hawas founded 1977 through a conmanager), realizzato un in importante strumento di tract between Confindustria e Federmanager. welfare, il FasiOpen: un Fondo Aperto di Assistenza It has since 2009 offered annon important welfare Integrativa, di natura contrattuale, riSanitaria instrument called FasiOpen, an open fund for volto alle aziende che vogliono offrire ai propri lavosupplementary non-contracturatori ed ai loro health familiaricare. una The forma di protezione al fund is aimed at companies that wish to offer della salute ai massimi livelli di servizio quanto a their staff andprestazioni, their families healthdiprotection of fruibilità delle network convenzioni theterritorio highestelevel in accessing to medical sersul tempistiche di rimborso. Grazie ha recentevices, a questa networkflessibilità, of healthFasiOpen centres under conmente ad erogare propri servizi anche ad ventioniniziato contracts, and i rapid reimbursement. alcune realtà nell’ambito di Thanksimportanti to this flexibility, FasiOpendegli has Istituti recently Istruzione privati della capitale, also che to hanno iscritto started supplying its services several imal Fondo schools il personale amministrativo, i docenti il portant in the capital, which haveed endirigente scolastico, potendo anche selezionare rolled their administrative personnel, teachers piani sanitariteachers differenti in sulla delle singole coland head thebase Fund, choosing diflettività omogenee di lavoratori. ferent medical care plans for different homogFasiOpen propone un'efficiente eFasiOpen moderna forma enous groups of employees. offers di assistenza sanitaria integrativa ed attraverso 6 a modern and efficient form of supplementary Piani Sanitari (di cui uno personalizzabile), assiste and integrated health assistance, and through oggi 38.000 soggetti tra lavoratori e familiari apparits six health care plans (one of them can be tenenti ad oltre 1.200 aziende, che hanno scelto personalised) today covers some 38,000 peoFasiOpen anche in virtù della sua natura non assiple, employees and their families of over 1,200 curativa, che non vincola dunque il rimborso delle companies. They have chosenpiù FasiOpen its spese sanitarie statisticamente frequentiforalla non-insurance format, which thus does not link sussistenza di una malattia o al verificarsi di un inthe reimbursement of the most frequent medifortunio del lavoratore". cal expenses to the presence of an illness or to a

workplace For ofurther information,un or Per maggioriaccident. informazioni per programmare to schedule a meeting to discuss in moreofferte detail incontro di approfondimento sulle opportunità the FasiOpen advantages of FasiOpen, contact secreda è possibile contattare la the segreteria tariat at 06 4925 2186 or at the otoll-free number amministrativa allo 06.4925.2186 il numero verde 800 085 502. Website www.FasiOpen.it. 800.085.502 - Sito: www.FasiOpen.it

Rambert Event on the REF programme marks Merce Cunningham's 100th birthday.

DANCE MILAN TEATRO ALLA SCALA ONEGIN 10 Nov

La Scala audiences will be able to see Roberto Bolle, who resigned as the principal dancer of the American Theatre Ballet in June after more than 10 years with the company. He returns to dance at La Scala alongside Marianela Nunez on 10 Nov. Onegin by John Cranko is revived by Agneta and Victor Valcu and conducted by Felix Korobov. This same production with the same dancers and also conducted by Korobov was staged in Milan two years ago. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.

BALANCHINE, KYLIÁN, BEJART 16-30 Nov

Balanchine’s Symphony in C to music by Bizet, Kylián’s Petite Mort to music by Mozart and Bejart’s Boleró to music by Bizet, performed by the La Scala ballet company and orchestra conducted by Felix Korobov and with Roberto Bolle. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

42 | November 2019 • Wanted in Rome

ROME ROMAEUROPA FESTIVAL 17 Sept-24 Nov

The Romaeuropa Festival which is coming to an end still offers a few dance events for enthusiasts. Alice by De Stilte (9-19 Nov) this is production for children by the Dutch dance company based Alice in Wonderland. aSH by Aurelien Bory is the final part of the trilogy of portraits of women, this one specially choreographed for Shantala Shivalingappa (13-15 Nov). Rambert Event (17 Nov) is created by the Ballet Rambert to mark the centenery of the birth of Merce Cunningham. It is made up of 10 extracts from Cunningham’s choreographies put together by Jeannie Steele, a former dancer with the Merce Cunningham Dance company and one of his rehearsal assistants. The Spanish dancer and choreographer Jesus Rubio Gamo returns with Boléro, his new choreography to Ravel’s music Balletto del Sud performs Swan Lake at Teatro Olimpico.

(22-23 Nov). See www.romaeuropa. net for more details about times and locations.

TEATRO OLIMPICO SWAN LAKE 2-3 Nov

This production of Swan Lake, which is choreographed by Fredy Franzutti and is danced by his company Balletto del Sud, returns to Teatro Olimpico. One of Italy’s best known choreographers and ballet companies places this Tchaikovsky classic in Bavaria at the end of the 19th century. The work is set to the background of Neuschwanstein castle, Ludwig II’s fairy-tale palace, which was built as a retreat and in honour of Richard Wagner. Ludwig was eventually declared mad and deposed. Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.teatroolimpico.it.

Carmen Souza performs for Roma Jazz Festival on 29 November.

FESTIVALS ROMAEUROPA FESTIVAL: LANDSCAPES 17 Sept-24 Nov

The 34th edition of Rome’s multidisciplinary arts festival is a particularly international affair this year, with 377 artists from 27 countries contributing to the programme of contemporary dance, theatre, art, music and technology. Under the title Landscapes, the festival continues to expand, with 126 events taking place in 20 venues across the city, under the

artistic direction of Fabrizio Grifasi. Once again the festival attracts some of the most important names from the world of contemporary arts such as Akram Khan, Hans Op de Beek and Gerard Richter. November includes a packed programme of children’s events, under the umbrella REF Kids, as well as the 10th edition of the parallel futuristic section Digitalive, which examines the interaction between visual arts and technology. For programme and tickets see website, www.romaeuropa.net.

opera TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA IDOMENEO, RE DI CRETA 8-16 Nov

Robert Carsen directs Idomeneo, re di Creta at Teatro dell'Opera di Roma. Photo Fabrizio Sansoni.

44 | November 2019 • Wanted in Rome

The conductor of this production of Mozart’s opera is Michele Mariotti and the director is Robert Carsen, with Charles Workman as Idomeneo, Joel Prieto as Idamante, Rosa Feola as Illia and Miah Persson as Elettra. This is a new production in conjunction with the Teatro Real di Madrid and the Canadian Opera Company of Toronto. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Teatro Costanzi, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it.

ROMA JAZZ FESTIVAL 1 Nov-1 Dec

Jazz fans in Rome can look forward to the annual jazz festival which takes place under the theme No Borders at the Auditorium Parco della Musica and other venues around the city such as Casa del Jazz, Monk and Alcatraz. Now in its 43rd year, the 2019 edition is dedicated to migration and integration, and features an impressive line-up of Italian and international acts, including Archie Shepp, Gabrielle Coen, Moonlight Benjamin, Donny McCaslin, Cory Wong, Carmen Souza, Antonio Sánchez and Ralph Towner. For programme and ticket details see website, www.romajazzfestival.it.

Alice by De Stilte (9-10 Nov) is part of Romaeuropa's rich programme for kids. Photo Hans Gerritsen.

UN ROMANO A MARTE VITTORIO MONTALTI 22-24 Nov

This is the world premiere of an opera by Vittorio Montalti, conducted by John Axelrod and directed by Fabio Cherstich. The young composer, winner of the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma composition prize, explains that his work is dedicated to the city of Rome, and is inspired by the playwright and dramatist Ennio Flaiano. Montalti already has numerous prizes to his name and in 2016 was awarded the Una Vita nella Musica prize by La Fenice in Venice. In May this year his opera Le leggi fondamentale della stupidita umana was premiered at Maggio Musicale Fiorentino. This is the last opera in the 2018-2019 season and there are only three performances. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Teatro Costanzi, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it.

Theatre ALADDIN

9 Oct-1 Dec

Teatro Brancaccio stages a familyorientated musical about the kindhearted street urchin who discovers a magic lamp with the power to make his wishes come true. The Bollywood-style production, in Italian, is aimed at all ages, from three to 103. Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231, www.teatrobrancaccio.it.

MARY POPPINS IL MUSICAL 17 Oct-1 Dec

After seven months of almost sellout shows in Milan, the musical celebrating the world’s best-known nanny comes to the Teatro Sistina in Rome. Mary Poppins il Musical is the Italian version of the Sherman Brothers’ show based on the classic children’s book and Disney movie, featuring many of the songs from the 1964 film. The musical is staged from Thursday to Saturday at 20.30, with mattinee shows at 16.00 on Saturday and Sunday. For tickets see website. Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www. ilsistina.it.

will be will be an additional show at Teatro Arciliuto, the historic home of the English Theatre of Rome near Piazza Navona, at midday on 5 Nov. Photo ID necessary to obtain entrance to John Cabot University campus. To reserve rometheatre@ gmail.com, tel. 346 / 3612209, Whatsapp 348 / 9355626. John Cabot University, Via della Lungara 233, Trastevere. Teatro Arciliuto, Piazza di Montevecchio 5.

THE PHILANDERER 5-10 Nov

The Rome Savoyards and Plays in Rome present The Philanderer by George Bernard Shaw. Directed by Sandra Provost, this Englishlanguage production is described as a “cleverly entertaining, irreverent, timeless and topical social satire in newly abridged version.” 5-8 Nov 20.30, 9-10 Nov 17.30. For bookings contact playsinrome@yahoo.com or tel. 3478248661. Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, (Piazza Mazzini), www.teatrosangenesio.it.

SWEENEY TODD 5-10 Nov

Teatro Olimpico presents an Italianlanguage version of the macabre musical Sweeney Todd which follows the vengeful serial killer known as the “Demon Barber of Fleet Street”. Lorenzo Tognocchi stars in this production which features nine actors, a 12-piece orchestra and plenty of blood. Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it.

ROME’S COMEDY CLUB 29 Nov

With almost 90 shows under its belt over the last decade, Rome’s Comedy Club is currently celebrating its tenth season of stand-up comedy in English. The €15 entrance fee includes aperitivo, a beer or glass of wine. Doors open at 20.00, and the show starts at 21.30. Bookings by text via Whatsapp 3397514140 or email makairoma@gmail.com. Makai Surf and Tiki bar, Via dei Magazzini Generali, 4/a/b/c.

OSCAR & WALT 5-10 Nov

Donald Steven Olson’s awardwinning new play Oscar & Walt is staged in a co-production between the Italy Reads program at John Cabot University and the English Theatre of Rome. Olson’s play coincides with the 200th anniversary of the birth of American poet Walt Whitman, celebrating his enduring legacy by recreating an actual encounter that took place in 1882 between the 62-year-old Whitman and a 28-year-old Oscar Wilde. The production will be staged at John Cabot on 8 Nov at 16.00 and 19.00; and on 9-10 Nov at 19.00. There

46 | November 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Oscar & Walt at John Cabot University. Bill Guion in the role of Walt Whitman.

taken during world war two. The exhibition, accompanied by a one-day colloquium on 14 Nov, will explore historical examples of academic responses to archives in times of crisis. The exhibition opens at 18.0020.00 and can be visited Mon-Fri 16.00–19.30, until 27 November. For full details see BSR website. British School at Rome, Via Gramsci 61, tel. 063264939, www.bsr.ac.uk.

CASA DI GOETHE 6 Oct-9 Feb

Encounters at American Academy in Rome. Al Held, Padua II, 1981, photograph by Christopher Burke provided by Al Held Foundation and White Cube.

ACADEMIES AMERICAN ACADEMY IN ROME 15 Oct-8 Dec

In celebration of its 125th anniversary in 2019–2020, the American Academy in Rome (AAR) is inviting leading artists and thinkers to investigate the impact of the city of Rome, its artefacts and its narratives. Exhibitions, publications and public programmes will explore the presence of history in the context of a more global, technologically linked era. It will investigate how encounters with Rome resonate throughout the arts and the humanities in the US and around the world. Curated by Peter Benson Miller, the exhibition Encounters revisits some decisive interdisciplinary encounters at AAR, exploring their long term impact on American culture across a variety of fields. In particular, the exhibition examines the interplay between visual

art, music, literature and architecture fueled by important exchanges set against and engaging the city of Rome, its monuments and urban spaces. American Academy in Rome, tel. 0658461, www.aarome.org.

BRITISH SCHOOL OF ROME 14-27 Nov

The British School at Rome (BSR) opens an exhibition entitled Ruins in the Archive, comprising archival documents from The Warburg Institute and the BSR. On display are photographs Helmut Gernsheim made of important London monuments for the National Buildings Record to document them in case of their destruction during world war two, along with John Bryan Ward-Perkins' photographs of war-damaged Italian buildings and monuments, also

Casa di Goethe presents Sguardi sull’Italia - 1780-1850, an exhibition featuring a selection of its precious drawings and engravings by 18thand 19th-century artists from England, France, Germany and Italy. The landscapes and urban views on display include sepia drawings by Christoph Heinrich Kniep and engravings by Samuel Bellin, Georg Hackert and Giovanni Battista Piranesi. A highlight of the show is a view of Piazza del Popolo and its surroundings from a hot-air balloon, published around 1850 as a colour lithograph by Louis Jules Arnout. Casa di Goethe, Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www.casadigoethe.it.

SWISS INSTITUTE OF ROME 11 Oct-19 Jan

Entitled Retour à Rome, this “nonconventional installation” offers a different take on the concept of landscape being associated traditionally with painting. The exhibition toys with the idea that the “moving image”, or film, is the medium best placed today to evoke memories associated with landscapes. The participating artists are Anne-Laure Franchette, Vidya Gastaldon, Clemens Klopfenstein, Marie Matusz, Gianni Motti, Uriel Orlow, Denis Savary, Rico Scagliola & Michael Meier, and Ian Wooldridge. Istituto Svizzero, Via Ludovisi 48, tel. 06420421, www.istitutosvizzero.it.

REMEMBRANCE DAY The annual Commonwealth Remembrance Day service takes place on Friday 8 November at the Commonwealth

War Graves Commission cemetery on Via Nicola Zabaglia 50 in the Testaccio district. The service begins at 10.45 and will be attended by ambassadors, diplomats and military personnel from numerous nations, including the Commonwealth and African countries. The service is open to the public and those wishing to attend are requested to arrive at 10.30 and sign the visitors’ book at the cemetery entrance. Wanted in Rome • November 2019 | 47

lassical lassical

The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a definitive list of all the music that is available in the city. The following is a list of the main musical There are also concerts in many of the associations in Rome but it is not a definitive churches and sometimes in the museums. list of all the music that is available in the city. There are also concerts in many of the Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della churches and sometimes in the museums. Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Auditorium Conciliazione, ViaP. de della Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Accademia Filarmonica Teatro Auditorium Parco della Romana, Musica, Viale P. de Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro starts on 15 Oct Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season concerts Parco della Musica. The startsat onAuditorium 15 Oct newAccademia season startsS. on 5Cecilia, Oct www.santacecilia.it. All concerts Universitaria at Auditorium Parco della Musica. Istituzione dei Concerti, AulaThe newUniversità season starts on 5 Oct www.concertiiuc.it Magna, la Sapienza,

Istituzione Universitaria deiGonfalone Concerti,32a, Aula Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it www.oratoriogonfalone.com Oratorio delMethodist Gonfalone, Via delPiazza Gonfalone 32a, RomeConcerts, Church, Ponte www.oratoriogonfalone.com S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it RomeConcerts, Piazza Ponte Roma Sinfonietta, Methodist AuditoriumChurch, Ennio Morricone, S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Roma Auditorium Roma Tre Sinfonietta, Orchestra, some concertsEnnio are atMorricone, Teatro Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others at Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are are at Teatro the Aula Magna, Piazza Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, 8, Palladium, Bartolomeo Romano Universita Roma Tre, Via while Ostienze teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, others234, are at www.r30.org the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Tre,festivals Via Ostienze 234, There are oftenRoma concerts, and opera www.r30.org recitals in several churches in Rome.

often concerts, festivals and153, opera All There Saints' are Anglican Church, Via Babuino recitals in several churches in Rome. www.allsaintsrome.org All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. www.allsaintsrome.org Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7 Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com

Oratorio del Caravita, Caravita St Paul's Within the Walls,Via Viadella Nazionale and7 the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the S. Agnese Sagrestia del Borromini, corner ofin ViaAgone, Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it Piazza Navona S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Palazzo PiazzaDoria NavonaPamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum Serenades by Night Dinner throughout and Opera dinner afterwards. Viawith del Corso 305, the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum www.doriapamphilj.com and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com Jan 2019 • Wanted in Rome 5048 |48 Oct 2018 • Wanted Rome | |November 2019 •in Wanted in Rome

MUSIC MUSIC THEATR THEATRE CINEMA CINEMA VENUES VENUES

MUSIC THEATRE CINEMA DANCE OPERA

inema inema

The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wantedshow in Rome website for The following cinemas movies in English weekly updates. or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for Adriano, Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 weeklyPiazza updates. Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 0686391361 Barberini, Piazza BarberiniMastroianni 24-26, 1, tel. Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello 0686391361 tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it 068553485 Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 068553485 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 066861068 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 066861068 Odeon, Piazza Stefano 22, tel. Nuovo Sacher, LargoJacini Ascianghi 1, 0686391361 tel. 065818116

Space Moderno, Piazza della 44, tel. Odeon, Piazza Stefano JaciniRepubblica 22, tel. 0686391361 06892111 Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebec06892111 chini 3-5, tel. 06892111 Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111

dd p

ddance oopera p pop r ock r ance

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano www.teatrovascello.it 17, www.teatroolimpico.it

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it

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Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

ock

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Concert venues ranging from major pop and Alexanderplatz, 9, tel. 0683775604 rock groups to Via jazzOstia and acoustic gigs. www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di | December 2017 www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Wanted in 55, Rome Caracalla www.angelomai.org Angelo Mai Via Atlantico delle Terme di Atlantico, VialeAltrove, dell’Oceano 271d, Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it

Atlantico, Viale Atlantico Auditorium Parcodell’Oceano della Musica, Viale 271d, P. de tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com Auditorium della Viale de Casa del Jazz, Parco Viale di PortaMusica, Ardeatina 55,P.tel. Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com 06704731, www.casajazz.it

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Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

heatre heatre

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net www.teatrobelli.it Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobelli.it www.teatrobrancaccio.it Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatrobrancaccio.it www.teatroghione.it Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. www.teatroghione.it 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net

Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com Lanificio 159,ViaVia di Pietralata 159, Live Alcazar, Cardinale Merry del Valtel. 14, 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com Live Alcazar, Merry del 35, Val 14, Monk Club, Via ViaCardinale Giuseppe Mirri tel. tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com 0664850987, www.monkroma.it Monk Club, ViaPiazzale Giuseppe Mirri 35,1, tel. PalaLottomatica, dello Sport tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it

PalaLottomatica, Piazzale Sport 1, tel. Rock in Roma, Via Appiadello Nuova 1245, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it www.teatrosangenesio.it Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsiwww.teatrosangenesio.it stina.it Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.ilsistina.it www.teatrovascello.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Vittoria,www.teatrovascello.it Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. tel. 065898031, 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it 51 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome

ddance oopera p pop r ock r ance

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

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Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

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Concert venues ranging from major pop and Alexanderplatz, 9, tel. 0683775604 rock groups to Via jazzOstia and acoustic gigs. www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org Angelo Mai Via Atlantico delle Terme di Atlantico, VialeAltrove, dell’Oceano 271d, Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it

Atlantico, Viale Atlantico Auditorium Parcodell’Oceano della Musica, Viale 271d, P. de tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com Auditorium della Viale de Casa del Jazz, Parco Viale di PortaMusica, Ardeatina 55,P.tel. Coubertin,www.casajazz.it tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com 06704731,

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

heatre heatre

Monk Club, ViaPiazzale Giuseppe Mirri 35,1, tel. PalaLottomatica, dello Sport tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it PalaLottomatica, Piazzale Sport 1, tel. Rock in Roma, Via Appiadello Nuova 1245, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

Lucian Freud / Boy Smoking

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Tate: Bequeathed by Simon Sainsbury 2006, accessioned 2008 © Lucian Freud archive / Bridgeman images. Photo: © Tate, London 2019.

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

, tel.

3432,

w.ilsi-

, tel.

Tate: Bequeathed by Simon Sainsbury 2006, accessioned 2008 © Lucian Freud archive / Bridgeman images. Photo: © Tate, London 2019. Lucian Freud / Boy Smoking

opere della

CHIOSTRO DEL BRAMANTE 26 settembre 2019 23 febbraio 2020

orario 10.00 > 20.00 / sabato e domenica 10.00 > 21.00 (la biglietteria chiude un’ora prima)

mostra prodotta e organizzata da

in collaborazione con

con il patrocinio di

opening 10am > 8pm / saturday and sunday 10am > 9pm

(last entry one hour before)

partner tecnici

media coverage

WANTED junior inROME Students from The New School see Romeo and Juliet in Rome The English department of The New School was delighted to organise an outing to see an English-language production of Romeo and Juliet at the Silvano Toti Globe Theatre in Villa Borghese. This was an exciting opportunity for students in Key Stage Four and Five to see Shakespeare’s celebrated play performed at Rome’s full-scale timber reproduction of Shakespeare’s Globe, which replicates the original oak and thatch designs of the theatre that stands on London’s South Bank. Seeing a live performance of this play in such a beautiful setting was of particular benefit for our Year 11 students who are currently studying Romeo and Juliet in preparation for their IGCSE Exam in English Literature. Calum Sarch Thomas, in Year 10, writes of his experience. Anna Madden, English & Drama teacher

“These violent delights have violent ends And in their triumph die, like fire and powder Which, as they kiss, consume” Romeo and Juliet was written in 1594 by Shakespeare and is set in the alluring Italian city of Verona at a time when a long-standing feud between two noble families – the Montagues and Capulets – constantly wreaked havoc on the streets. Both sides are warned by Prince Escalus that they must not disturb the peace again, or feel the pain of death. Yet despite the inconceivable odds Montague’s son Romeo falls deeply in love with Juliet – daughter of Capulet. The following play shows both the dangers they traverse and their inseparable love for each other that showed us how they could not live apart. On the night of 10 October, our Year 10 class as well as varying older students went to see Romeo and Juliet. The performance was directed by Chris Pickles and his Bedouin Shakespeare Company, a company filled with talented veterans who return to Rome annually. We saw our play under the enticing night sky in the Globe theatre, located in Villa Borghese. It is a replica of London’s Globe theatre whose panoramic stage is surrounded by three layers at almost all angles, were it not for the backstage. The Globe was the primary home of Shakespeare’s acting company beginning in late 1599. Many famous figures like Queen Elizabeth often came to enjoy his spectacles. Theatre helps us travel back in time.

Romeo and Juliet at the Globe in Rome. Photos Marco Borrelli.

52 | November 2019 • Wanted in Rome

When we arrived we admired the theatre before taking our seats. It wasn’t long before the play began. This was an incredibly professional show delivered by a hard-working cast whose members

appeared immersed in the play. However, there were a few technical complications: the battle sequences, especially at the start, were slightly out of sync, as well as the actors differing volume level. However, the play was outstanding. I found that their performance was very faithful to Shakespeare’s original vision. They kept the costumes, elocution and setting identical to how it would have been in the 16th century. This turned out to be wonderful, as even hundreds of years later the play excels. Its similarity to the original serves to emphasise the modern relevance and universality of Shakespeare’s plays. An example could be awareness of children’s opinions. The lovers: Joanna Lucas (Juliet); and Jack ForsythNoble (Romeo) were wonderful actors and were able to convey their characters’ emotions like they were their own. They had a great bond, especially when we got to see their varying reactions, expressions and voice tones. Finally, my favourite character was the Nurse. Played by Kali Peacock, her energetic performance brilliantly captured the erratic nature of one of Shakespeare’s most difficult characters. She was very comic and also frequently made bawdy remarks. This made her

stand out in the tragic tale that this is. However, despite this, we could see her devotion and love for Juliet. She was a very likable character. Overall the entire production was executed with lots of speed and vigour that ensured we were never tired or bored, with little to no gap between scenes. This experience was a huge success, and I think it would benefit the school and our educational studies greatly if we were to return. Calum Sarch Thomas The New School, Via della Camilluccia 669, tel. 063294269, www.newschoolrome.com.

WANTED IN ROME JUNIOR: For young writers and artists Wanted in Rome is accepting creative contributions from students in all international schools in Rome. Articles on topics related to either the student’s life in Rome or their school projects can be submitted by their class teachers. The work should be no more than 1,000 words and all contributions should contain the name, age and school of the students. We also accept illustrations. Any class teachers who would like to propose a project please contact editorial@wantedinrome.com.

Wanted in Rome • November 2019 | 53

Rome’s street artart capital continues to to grow with newnew murals by important Italian and Rome'sreputation reputationasasananimportant important street capital continues grow with murals by important Italian international streetstreet artistsartists appearing all the all time. the works located the suburbs, often far often from the and international appearing theMost time.ofMost of theare works are in located in the suburbs, far centre. Here is where to is find Rome’s mainthe street artstreet projects murals. from the centre. Here where to find main artand projects and murals around Rome. Esquilino Esquilino Murals Murals byby Alice Alice Pasquini, Pasquini, Gio Gio Pistone, Nicola Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Alessandrini, Diamond. Diamond. Casa Casa dell’Architettura, dell'Architettura, Piazza Fanti 47. PiazzaMafredo Manfredo Fanti 47. Marconi Marconi The The M.A.G.R. M.A.G.R. (Museo (Museo Abusivo Abusivo Gestito Gestitodai daiRom), Rom),a aproject projectby byFrench French street artistSeth Seth is located in a street artist is located in a former Via Antonio former soap factory soap factory on Viaon Antonio AvogaAvogadro, opposite dro, opposite Ostiense'sOstiense’s landmark landmark Gasometro. details see Gasometro. For For details see www.999contemporary.com. www.999contemporary.com. Museodell’Altro dell’Altroe edell’Altrove dell’Altrovedidi Museo Metropoliz Metropoliz This former former meat meat factory factory inin the the This outskirts of of Rome art outskirts Rome isis now nowa astreet street museum being home hometoto art museumasaswell well as as being some200 200squatting squatters,migrants. many of The them some migrants. The Museo dell’Altrodi e Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove dell’Altroveor diMAAM, Metropoliz, or MAAM, Metropoliz, is only open only open Saturdays, and andon features the work onis Saturdays, the work of moreincluding than 300 offeatures more than 300 artists artists including Gio Edoardo Kobra,Edoardo Gio Kobra, Pistone, Pistone, Sten&Lex Diamond.and See Sten&Lex, Pablo and Echaurren MAAM Facebook page for details. Borondo. See MAAM Facebook page Via Prenestina 913. for details. Via Prenestina 913. Ostiense Ostiense Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Porto Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Fluviale. Porto Fluviale. Fish’n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via Fish’n’Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale. del Porto Wall of Fluviale. Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali. Magazzini Shelley by Generali. Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense Via Ostiense. underpass, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense. Pigneto Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Pigneto Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71. Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.

54 | November 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Via Via Fanfulla Fanfulla da da Lodi. Lodi. 2501 mural on Fortebraccio. Via Fortebraccio. 2501 mural on Via Blu by Sten Blu Landscape Landscape by Sten & & Lex. Lex. Via Via Francesco Baracca. Francesco Baracca. Prati Prati Anna Magnaniportrait portrait by Diavù. Anna Magnani by Diavù. Nuovo Nuovo MercatoViaTrionfale, Via Mercato Trionfale, Andrea Doria. Andrea Doria. Daniza the bear by Daniza the bear by ROA. Via Sabotino. ROA. Via Sabotino. Primavalle Primavalle The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via Cristoforo Numai. Cristoforo Numai. the Minotaur by Theseus stabbing Theseus stabbing the Bembo. Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo. Quadraro Quadraro Tunnel murals by Mr THOMS and Gio Tunnel byMure. Mr THOMS and Pistone. murals Via Decio Gio Decio Mure. Via del NidoPistone. di Vespe Via by Lucamaleonte. Nido didel Vespe by Lucamaleonte. Via Monte Grano. del Monte Baby Hulkdel byGrano. Ron English. Via dei Baby PisoniHulk 89. by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89. Rebibbia Rebibbia Murals by Blu. Via Ciciliano and Via Murals Via by Blu. Palombini (Casal dèCiciliano Pazzi). and Via Palombini dè Pazzi). Welcome to(Casal Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Metro B station. Metro B station. S. Basilio S.SanBa Basilio features large-scale works on SanBa features large-scale works the façades of social-housing blockson in the of social-housing blocks the façades disadvantaged north-east suburb of in the disadvantaged north-east S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regenerasuburb of S.includes Basilio works near Rebibbia. tion project by Italian The project artistsregeneration Agostino Iacurci, Hitnesincludes and Blu works by Spain's ItalianLiqen. artistsViaAgostino alongside Maiolati, Iacurci, Hitnes and BluVia alongside Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Arcevia, Spain’s Via Treia.Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, Via Treia. S. Giovanni Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via S.Apulia Giovanni corner of Via Farsalo. Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.

It’s aa New NewDay Daybyby Alice Pasquini. It’s Alice Pasquini. Via Via Anton Ludovico. Anton Ludovico. S. Lorenzo Lorenzo S. Pasquini. ViaSabelli. AlicePasquini. dei Sabelli. Alice Via dei Feminicidemural mural Elisa Feminicide by Elisaby Caracciolo. Caracciolo. Via Dei Sardi.Via Dei Sardi. Borondo. Via Viadei Volsci159. deiVolsci 159. Borondo. by Agostino AgostinoIacurci Iacurci on Mural by Mural on the the Istituto Superiore di Lattanzio, Vittorio Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Via Aquilonia. Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia. Pietro S. Pietro UmaCabra Cabra Bordalo II. Stazione Uma byby Bordalo II. Stazione di S. Pietro, di Monte di S. Clivo Pietro, Clivo del di Gallo. Monte del Gallo. Testaccio Hunted Wolf by ROA. Via Galvani. Testaccio #KindComments AliceVia Pasquini, Via Hunted Wolf bybyROA. Galvani. Volta, Testaccio market. #KindComments by Alice Pasquini, Via Volta, Testaccio market. Tor Pignattara Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta. Tor Pignattara Etnik. Via Bartolomeo Perestrello 51. Antonio Tempesta. Dulk. Via Coffee Etam Cru. Via Ludovico Etnik.Break ViabyBartolomeo Perestrello Pavoni. 51. Coﬀee Break by Etam Cru. Via Tom SawyerPavoni. by Jef Aerosol. Via Gabrio Ludovico Serbelloni. Tom Sawyer by Jef Aerosol. Via Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema Gabrio Serbelloni. Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Galeazzo Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Alessi. Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Herakut. Via Capua 14. Galeazzo Alessi. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Herakut. Via Capua 14. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Tor Marancia The Big City Life scheme features 14-m Tormurals Marancia tall by 22 Italian and internaThe Big City artists Life scheme features tional street including Mr 14-m tall murals by 22 Italian and Klevra, Seth, Gaia and Jerico. The idea international street was to transform theartists area's including blocks of Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia and Jerico. flats into an open-air art museum. Via TheMarancia. idea was to transform the area’s Tor www.bigcity.life.it. blocks of ﬂats into an open-air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. For full details see website, www.bigcity.life.it.

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Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth. Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

Wanted in Rome â&#x20AC;¢ November 2019 | 55

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orski

ag By Kate Z

TONNARELLI CON UVA E SALSICCIA Autumn in Italy brings the grape harvest and, with it, an invasion of sweet, shiny spheres which can be seen piled up precariously at Rome’s markets and produce stalls. Grapes are popped in the mouth on the go as a speedy snack, adorn cheese platters as a garnish and occasionally, as in this case, crop up in seasonal recipes. Cooking grapes and sausage together as a savoury dish may seem a little unusual but the combination can be traced back to 1891 when Italian gastronome Pellegrino Artusi included a recipe for Salsiccia coll’uva in his famed culinary bible La Scienza in Cucina e l’Arte di Mangiar Bene (The Science of Cooking and the Art of Eating Well). This recipe takes inspiration from the same ingredients for a pasta version which deliciously balances the delectable flavours of rich Italian sausage, sweet grapes and a background hint of salty Pecorino Romano.

Serves 4 people 60 white grapes (seedless if possible) 4 pork sausages Extra virgin olive oil 1 red onion, finely chopped 1 whole garlic clove, peeled Salt Pepper 400g tonnarelli (or any long fresh pasta) 6 tablespoons grated Pecorino Romano Bring a large saucepan of water to the boil. Using a sharp knife carefully cut an X into the base of each grape and then cook in the boiling water for about 2 minutes. Remove the grapes, keeping the water aside to cook the pasta. Leave the grapes to cool then, pulling away from the X, peel off the skins and remove any seeds. Remove the outer casing of the sausages and roughly chop them into chunks. Heat a splash of olive oil in a large frying pan and add the chopped onion and whole garlic clove. After 3 minutes, when the onion begins to soften, add the sausage meat and continue to cook for 10 minutes before stirring in the grapes. Cook for another 5 minutes, season with salt and pepper and remove the garlic clove. In the meantime, bring the saucepan of water back to the boil, add salt, and cook the pasta until al dente. Drain the pasta and add to the frying pan, mix together well to coat the pasta then turn off the heat, sprinkle in the Pecorino Romano and stir well, shaking the pan, to thicken up the sauce before serving.

58 | November 2019 â&#x20AC;˘ Wanted in Rome

Aperitivi and dinner in Rome TRENDY APERITIVO – COLOSSEUM CAFFÈ PROPAGANDA Other than the lunch and evening menu, Caffè Propaganda, two minutes away from the Colosseum, serves a very trendy aperitivo at the bar with small plates that you can enjoy with drinks and expert cocktails, between 18.00 and 23.30 during the week and until half-past midnight at the weekend. APERITIVO IN A WINE BAR – MONTEVERDE Litro A winery and bistro in the heart of Monteverde Vecchio, Litro is a refuge for organic wine affacinados and for those who are looking for a spot with a relaxing and refined atmosphere. If you prefer your aperitivo in a wine bar, then this is the place for you. The selected wines and cuisine are excellent and there’s a great outdoor space. TRADITIONAL DINNER – HISTORIC CENTRE Matricianella At Matricianella, two minutes from S. Lorenzo in Lucina, you’ll find authentic and honest cooking. Your meal should start with a mountain of fried delicacies, from brain to lamb sweetbreads to anchovies, porcini mushrooms, potatoes (€5.50) to artichoke alla romana (€5.50). Don’t miss their real speciality, the amatriciana (€11) and the rigatoni with pajata d’abbacchio (lamb sweetbreads) (€12). Finish the meal with a Jewish dessert of ricotta and chocolate and Roman trifle. In the summer months you can tuck into your meal in the small outdoor area.

GOURMET DINNER – HISTORIC CENTRE Pipero The Pipero restaurant has moved from the Rex Hotel to a new and elegant spot on Corso Vittorio Emanuele, facing Piazza della Chiesa Nuova. The restaurant is modern and beautifully lit, which suits the innovative cuisine, curated by young chef Luciano Monosilio, perfectly. You can choose between two different tasting menus, the Radici and Rami, which are respectively between 6 to 10 dishes (€110-140, wine not included). Or there’s also a variety of dishes to choose from on the main menu. For antipasti (the chef’s favourite course) there’s lobster with red turnip and bitter orange and mackerel with wasabi mayonnaise and potatoes (€25-40). For starters you should try the prawn risotto (€30) and the rigatoni with broccoli, sausage and pecorino (€30). For the main course, the joint of pork with potatoes and liquorice is excellent, as is the turbot served with seawood and lettuce (€40) and the tongue and scallops (€40). DINNER OUTDOORS – HISTORIC CENTRE Pianostrada On Via delle Zoccolette, you’ll find the splendid Pianostrada, an elegantly styled restaurant with a fantastic courtyard-garden, with a great long bar and a kitchen on show. Already hugely successful with Roman foodies, you can try anything from fried antipasti (€10-13.50), salads, gourmet panini (€12.50-14.50), artichokes and excellent bread that’s made in house. We loved the artichokes alla giud ìa, the extremely light cod tempura and the fig and sun dried tomato focaccia.

www.puntarellarossa.it

Indirizzi Caffè Propaganda, Via Claudia 15, tel. 0694534255. Vineria Litro, Via Fratelli Bonnet 5, tel. 0645447639. Matricianella Roma, Via del Leone 4, tel. 066832100. Pipero, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 246/248, tel. 0668139022. Pianostrada, Via delle Zoccolette 22, tel. 0689572296. Wanted in Rome • November 2019 | 59

MERCOLEDÌ 1 GENNAIO 2020 – DALLE 15.30 ALLE 17.30 PIAZZA DEL POPOLO – VIA DEL CORSO – PIAZZA DI SPAGNA – VIA DEL BABUNIO romeparade.com @romeparade

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Associations American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com Daughters of the American Revolution Pax Romana Chapter NSDAR paxromana@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com

International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490, www.iwcofrome.it Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 3338466820 Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Woman’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com

Books The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified. Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 Anglo American Bookshop Via delle Vite 102, tel. 066795222 Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it

Religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881 Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish)

62 | November 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484 Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com Otherwise Via del Governo Vecchio, tel. 066879825, www.otherwisebookshop.com St Patrick’s English-Language Lending Library Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 0688818727, Sun 10.00-12.30, Tues 10.00-14.00, Wed 15.00-18.00, Thurs 11.00-15.30 Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 3332284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday Service 10.30

Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei SS. Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Roma Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic) Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00

Support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.info Archè (HIV+children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/06582045580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 3381675680

Transport • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157066645-064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it

St Isidore College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic), Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827, www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri” Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022

Chiamaroma 24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Emergency numbers • • • • • • •

Ambulance tel. 118 Carabinieri tel. 112 Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 Fire brigade tel. 115 Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 Police tel. 113 Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355 Wanted in Rome • November 2019 | 63

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