Wanted in Rome - October 2019 by Wanted in Rome

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CONT

EDITORIALS

NEWMAN AND ST ISIDORE'S ROME Mícheál MacCraith

8. BIRD WATCHING IN ROMAN GARDENS Gerry Firth

12. PLAYING CRICKET IN ROME Ed White

16. TO DO CALENDAR 18. Cultural Academies 22. MUSEUMS 26. ART GALLERIES 48. CULTURAL VENUES 52. Wanted in Rome junior 54. STREET ART guide 57. RECIPE 58. PUNTARELLA ROSSA 62. USEFUL NUMBERS

ONLINE CLASSIFIEDS As of 1 January 2019 classified advertisements will no longer appear in the magazine but may be published around the clock on our website www.wantedinrome.com. DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: Marco Venturini EDITRICE: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9 PROGETTO GRAFICO E IMPAGINAZIONE: Dali Studio Srl STAMPA: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c. DIFFUSIONE: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425. Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131del 6/3/1985. Finito di stampare il 29/09/2019

THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME

Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 11, Numero 9 OCTOBER 2019 | € 2,00

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ENTS 4

ST JOHN HENRY NEWMAN AND ST ISIDORE'S ROME

BIRD WATCHING IN ROMAN GARDENS

exhibitions

42 FESTIVALS

Religion

ST JOHN HENRY NEWMAN AND ST ISIDORE'S ROME John Henry Newman's first sermon in Rome, soon after he arrived to study for the priesthood in 1846, raised eyebrows among Catholics and Protestants alike

ohn Henry Newman (1801-1890) ordained priest in the Church of England in 1825, was the leading spokesperson for the Anglican communion in the first half of the 19th century. His in-depth study of the church fathers, however, led him to become a Roman Catholic in 1845 and be ordained priest in 1847, much to the dismay of his fellow Anglicans and to the delight of Catholics. Ahead of the canonisation of Blessed John Henry Newman on 13 October, it is opportune to recall that he preached his first sermon as a Roman Catholic in the Irish Franciscan Church of S. Isidoro in Rome. The future saint was received into the Roman Catholic church in Oxford on 9 October 1845. While convinced of the validity of his Anglican orders, he felt it would be more prudent to remain as a Catholic layman, but Bishop Nicholas Wiseman, president of

Portrait of Cardinal Newman by Sir John Everett Millais.

4 | October 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Mícheál MacCraith Oscott College, Birmingham, persuaded him to seek ordination to the Catholic priesthood. Accompanied by his friend and fellow convert Ambrose St John, Newman arrived in Rome at the end of October 1846 to study for the priesthood, taking up residence at the College of Propaganda near the Spanish Steps. A tragic death that occurred in the Eternal City just over a month later provided the occasion for Newman’s first sermon. The circumstances were recorded by Francis Mahony, Roman correspondent for the Daily News, the UK newspaper founded by Charles Dickens. Mahony’s report for 3 December 1846 reads as follows: "I regret to find that, among other frivolities which occupy the leisure of the Palazzo Borghese, homoeopathy is now paramount, and through female influence this nonsense has become positively mischievous. Last March the duchess of Piombino was a victim, and this week a lovely daughter of Colonel Bryan, of Kilkenny, died under this treatment, none of the many English physicians resident here having been suffered to attend. She had arrived here a few weeks before in perfect health." The young lady in question was Octavia Catherine Mary Bryan, the fifth of six daughters of Colonel George Bryan of Jenkinstown, Co. Kilkenny and Margaret Talbot of Castle Talbot, Co. Wexford. George and Margaret spent much of their married life from the early 1820s on

Tomb of Octavia Bryan at St Isidore's in Rome.

the continent, and Octavia Catherine Mary was born in Rome on 6 February 1827.

But as a letter to you is no proper vehicle for theological comments, I add no more.”

Her maternal aunt, Mary Theresa Talbot, was married to the Earl of Shrewsbury, one of England's leading Catholic peers, and her mother, renowned for her beauty and wit, was very much at home in Roman society, making friends with both Pius IX and Pauline Bonaparte. Octavia was betrothed to Prince Scipio Borghese, a scion of one of the noblest families of Rome. The wedding was due to take place on 4 December 1846, but just three days before her scheduled nuptials the young woman succumbed to a fever.

Poor Octavia’s obsequies were overshadowed by the fact that the preacher was none other than John Henry Newman. Prince Marcantonio Borghese, head of the Borghese family, approached Newman the night before the funeral and begged him to preach the following day. Marcantonio’s first wife, Gwendoline Talbot, who died from scarlet fever in 1840 at the tender age of 22, was known in Rome as the mother of the poor because of her prodigious charitable works on their behalf.

Mahony’s report added further details: "The solemn dirge and requiem held over the poor lady in the church of Irish Franciscans, St Isidoro, was attended by several hundred British visitors, besides the young lady’s kinsfolk, of the princely houses of Doria Pamphilj and Borghese. Towards the termination of the sorrowful ceremony, at a pause in the liturgy, there arose in the body of the church a person in ecclesiastical costume, of pensive and careworn aspect, who standing near the coffin, addressed himself to speak. “His voice was low at first, so that few heard till it gradually filled the church, and it was understood to be a simple recital of the unostentatious virtues of the deceased; but soon came words of impressive import, and a whisper went round that the unexpected speaker on the occasion was the Rev Mr Newman, late of Oxford. To the thousands who have perused his printed sermons delivered in Anglican pulpits, it would be difficult to convey a notion of his manner on the present occasion, it being the first time that he delivered himself of an extemporaneous unpremeditated discourse.

As Gwendoline was also a younger daughter of the Earl of Shrewsbury, Prince Borghese astutely emphasised the double Shrewsbury connection in his attempts to cajole the new convert. Furthermore, he thought that Newman could exploit the young lady’s sudden death to convince the number of English Protestants who would be present at the funeral of the necessity of becoming Catholics before it was too late. Horrified at the prince’s reasoning, Newman explained that as a student for the priesthood, he was not yet licensed to preach. Prince Borghese retorted that he had already gained the necessary permission from the Vatican. Newman then ventured that the Anglican style of reading a sermon would hold little appeal for an Italian audience. Despite the cleric’s best efforts to escape this difficult task, however, the prince remained obdurate, and eventually Newman had no option but to yield to Borghese’s persistence. Ambrose St John, Newman’s close friend, gave further details of the sermon in a letter to J. B. Dalgairns, a mutual companion who also Wanted in Rome • October 2019 | 5

Religion converted from Anglicanism and was ordained to the priesthood in 1846. After addressing the Catholics in the congregation, Newman turned his attention to the Protestants present, making the point that all that was lacking in the sterling Anglo-Saxon character was the Catholic faith: “As you may guess, those who did like it liked it very much – such as the Princess Aldo Brandini, a half sister of Prince Borghese, who himself with others of his family could not follow the English. But the majority, including many old staging Catholics, who brought Protestant friends to hear the music, were disgusted to see their friends whipped before their faces. And still more the Protestants who heard the account from their brother Protestants (whose sole idea seems to be that Newman has called them all brutes and dogs &c. &c) became quite rabid; and the disease, propagated at balls and parties, has spread among Protestants and partly even amongst Catholics to an amazing extent." Newman just recorded the fact that he gave this sermon in his diary for 4 December 1846, but he was much more explicit in a letter to Dalgairns four days later: "Last Friday I had a few hours notice to preach extempore a funeral sermon on a young Irish lady here, a niece of Lady Shrewsbury’s at St. Isidore’s the Irish Franciscan Church. I assure you, I did not like it at all." He was even more forthcoming in a letter addressed to Mrs J. W. Bowden on 13 January 1847: "An occurrence happened which I do not know how to be sorry for, nor can blame myself about, which has been somewhat untoward. A young Catholic lady here died suddenly, a near relative of Lord Shrewsbury, and the Prince Borghese came to me one night and asked me earnestly to preach her funeral sermon next day... that, considering she was Lord Shrewsbury’s niece, I thought I could not graciously deny him. You may think how great a trouble it was to me to preach ex tempore, when I had been at Rome hardly a month, at a few hours’ notice, upon the death of lady of whom I knew nothing. Well, I gained no thanks from the relatives of Catholics, and much ill will from Protestants and many Catholics too. “Prince B[orghese] had wished me to try to do some good to the Protestants present, – and I preached the sermon in my own way, which was quite a 6 | October 2019 • Wanted in Rome

novelty, and not a pleasing one, here. The Catholics who are used to the fluency of the Italians did not understand my manner, and the Protestants, who came for the music or from respect to the family, did not relish receiving a lecture. And when they went away and told others, the story was made worse and anger excited greater, on each successive tradition. At length the Protestant world got into a regular fury, and Miss Ryder heard a man express the sentiment in a party, that I ought to be thrown into the Tyber." Reports of the debacle soon reached the ears of the pope himself. Having expressed the desire to see Newman repeatedly after his first encounter with him in Rome, Pius IX now temporarily lost all desire to have anything to do with him. While the brouhaha kindled by Newman’s sermon tended to overshadow the tragic death of young Octavia, the poignancy of the occasion was well captured by her funeral monument, sculpted by Vincenzo Gajassi in 1848, and occupying the top left-hand corner of St Isidore’s. One of the foremost sculptors of his age, Gajassi’s work depicted the supine figure of a young woman on a sarcophagus. Her veiled head, crowned with a garland of roses, reposes on two cushions. With the veil and crown of roses implying the notion of a bridal dress, the whole scene conveys an Ophelia-like impression that arouses the sympathy of visitors to St Isidore’s even to this day. While Gajassi’s monument remains a fitting tribute to the untimely demise of the young Irishwoman on the eve of her nuptials, Newman’s faltering words were totally inadequate for the occasion. Perhaps it is just as well that his sermon has not survived. Both as an Anglican and as a Catholic, the Englishman was no stranger to controversy. Although not deliberately courting hostility, the polemics occasioned by his writings stemmed rather from his searing honesty and fidelity to conscience. The affray occasioned by his debut sermon in S. Isidoro, however, was of a totally different kind and not of Newman’s volition. None of those present at Octavia’s obsequies could have harboured the faintest suspicion that the preacher would one day be raised to the ranks of canonised saints. Fr Mícheál MacCraith OFM is the former Guardian of St Isidore's College on Via degli Artisti 18.

Wanted in Rome â&#x20AC;¢ October 2019 | 7

Nature Opera

BIRD WATCHING IN ROMAN GARDENS A variety of birds can be watched from balconies and in gardens in Rome

part from their cheerful, colourful appearance and songs, birds are important creatures. They help control insect pests and, in fact, save many important food crops from destruction. Seagulls and crows (plenty of them in Rome) annoy many people who would be happy to see them go but, if they went, the city would suffer. These birds raise families each year, thousands of them, and feed their growing chicks on any edible food remains they find in the streets and rubbish bins. During the breeding season, they

Gerry Firth move tons of waste from the city that would otherwise cause health problems and smell, as well as attracting rats and other vermin. Many people classify gulls and crows and, especially, pigeons, as vermin. But crows and gulls, both present in Rome thanks to humans and their activities, are helpful members of society. Pigeons are accused of carrying diseases. In fact, they carry less disease than dogs and cats and even less than we humans do. A little research on the internet should convince anyone interested that they are no more harmful to our health than our domestic pets. Keen bird-watchers are out every day observing, recording and photographing birds. However as one grows older and busier with family life the opportunities for kitting up with backpack, boots, binoculars and books, and heading for the countryside, mountains or sea become fewer and fewer. Never mind, donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t give up: Rome is full of birds and from our balconies and windows we can record many different species, including some rather special ones.

A garden visit from a blue tit.

8 | October 2019 â&#x20AC;˘ Wanted in Rome

Hoopoes used to pass through the centre of Rome when they were nesting in Villa Celimontana each spring, several decades ago. Cranes, tired after their long migration from Africa, are sometimes seen over Rome as they look hopefully for somewhere to rest and feed, which is usually on the banks of the Tiber. Cormorants and ducks also are often seen flying towards the river. Woodpeckers can be spotted searching in city gardens for ants.

Nature or cat food, cooled in the fridge and then cut up into lumps will delight the crows – one can even, by making crow-like noises as the food is put out, train them to come and eat when called! Robins, blackbirds and thrushes will be attracted by meal worms (actually beetle larvae) which are obtainable from some pet shops. Various containers for bird food are available from pet shops and online suppliers such as the Lega Italiana Protezione Uccelli (LIPU), the Italian organisation which strives to protect wildlife with a particular focus on wild birds and their habitats.

Sardinian warblers are frequent garden visitors in Rome.

December to March are the best months for bird-watching from home, as food is scarce for birds and a supply of it will always attract them. This provides a chance to see them up close, which makes identification much easier. A small garden, a terrace or balcony, even a windowsill loaded with suitable food, will very quickly bring the birds to visit. Birdseed – any pet shop has it – will attract finches, with stubby, conical bills, such as sparrows and greenfinches. Greenfinches love birdseed and will try to drive other seed-eaters away. Fascinating to watch. They are Rome residents and their trilling song can be heard in spring and summer when they are nesting in the trees along the roads. The black redstart, a regular winter visitor from the north, loves grated cheese. The female has much duller plumage, which is normal for most birds since it makes her less noticeable when sitting on the nest. Feeding is most important during the winter to provide the energy birds need so much. Simple bird seed, husked sunflower seed, sultanas or currants (previously soaked in water), peanut powder mixed with suet or any hard-setting fat is a favourite with tits, once commonly known as titmice, and other insectivores. A can of dog

These crows are a sub-species of the carrion crow, which is entirely black. Carrion crows mainly inhabit the more central areas of Europe whereas hooded crows are commonly found in the northern and southern areas. They are great scavengers and sworn enemies of the yellow-legged gulls, which have become very common in Rome since first nesting in the city in 1971. Commercial fishing has led to a colossal boom in the population of gulls, since the fishing boats dump offal into the sea, where it is gobbled up by gulls and other sea birds. The result is that coastal nesting sites have been exhausted, so the gulls have slowly moved inland and are now very common in most big cities as roofs and sills have proved to be perfect nest sites. Gulls are carnivores and prefer meat of any kind, cooked or raw. They will attack, kill and eat pigeons and the parakeets which have colonised the city in recent decades. Three species of parakeet have been recorded: ring necked (very common), monk (less common) and eastern rosella (rare), not native to Rome, but “escapees” from captivity. Pigeons, pretty as they are, can be a nuisance when one is feeding birds, since they come down in flocks and gobble up everything in no time at all. A feeding cage keeps pigeons out but allows smaller birds to enter and feed safely. Any carpenter could construct one given the plan. A simple wooden framework (65 x 65 x 30cm) Wanted in Rome • October 2019 | 9

Art

A black redstart in a feeding cage.

covered in wire netting with spaces too small for pigeons to enter. The feeding cage can, of course, be any size you wish, even tall enough for humans to walk into. If you only have a balcony or small terrace, simply adjust the measurements to suit the space available. Try to place the cage so that you have a good, clear view of it from the window so that it can be watched and/or photographed from inside the house without disturbing the birds. When watching a bird, try to note features which help you distinguish between it and others which might, at first glance, seem similar. The colour and shape of head, wings, beaks and legs are all helpful when you come to try to identify a bird from a book. Photographs are clearly very helpful, but for these you will need a decent camera, preferably with a zoom lens to bring the image closer. Feeding garden birds during the cold months when insects and plants are usually dormant is a good way to begin bird watching. With the spring, when insects and plants are again active and available, your garden birds will be active with nesting and food gathering. There will still be plenty of bird-watching available if, by then, you have been “hooked”. 10 | October 2019 • Wanted in Rome

By April, migrant birds which have spent the winter in warmer climes will be returning to nest, given that the days here are longer than in Africa or other southern regions which gives birds here more time to forage for food for their nestlings. Flying overhead there will be swifts and swallows, the former screaming in the sky, the latter swooping near the ground as it hunts flying insects. House martins, with white rumps, build their nests on buildings in the shelter of the eaves. Overhead there is a chance of seeing kestrels and peregrine falcons. Fans of warblers often call them “little brown jobs”, since so many of them are the same size and have plumages which are very similar. Identification usually needs a well illustrated bird book and this will became an essential tool. Suggested books Kingfisher Field Guide to the birds of Britain and Europe by John Gooders. Collins Pocket Guide, Birds of Britain and Europe by Heine, Fitter and Parslow. Bird feeding LIPU. Lega Italiana Protezione Uccelli, sells bird feeders for hanging and other equipment, see website www.lipu.it.

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Opera Sport

PLAYING CRICKET IN ROME THE VATICAN CRICKET TEAM WILL PLAY AGAINST A SELECT TEAM FROM THE COMMONWEALTH EMBASSIES AND UN AGENCIES TEAMS IN ROME

he sound of leather on willow is not the most commonly experienced by those in Rome but the delights of the long established game of cricket are still enjoyed by Italian and foreign residents in the city. From competitive to friendly matches, Rome's cricketers take to the field throughout the hottest months of the year – with the season generally lasting from April to November. During October, St Peter’s, the official cricket team of Vatican City, will play against a team of diplomats from across the Commonwealth embassies in Rome. This team will be made up of the best players from the Commonwealth Cricket Cup. Originally known as the Rome Ashes, the Commonwealth Cricket Cup was launched in the 1960s with teams from the British and Australian embassies taking on the Commonwealth War Graves Commission, the Food and Agricultural Organization and several international colleges in Rome. In 2017 it was revived, and renamed, with the addition of other embassies in Rome.

Ed White In 2018, Bangladesh won the tournament, although controversy reigned over the number of outside embassy players each team had brought in. The Indian team...diplomats. The tournament saw Greg French, Australia’s ambassador to Italy, and Patrick Rata, the New Zealand ambassador to Italy, both taking to the field. This year, the competition took place at Rome’s Capanelle ground on 14 September with the winning team, Pakistan, also set to face the St Peter’s Cricket Club just a few weeks later. For those unsure of the dynamics of cricket, the traditions of the game originated in England during the 16th century. In short, it is a simple bat and ball game with a bowler aiming to dismiss the batsman by a number of means – predominantly by hitting

Run by the Commonwealth Club of Rome chair Ed Mura, the competition has become an annual tradition among the international embassies, with Australia, Bangladesh, India, Pakistan and the UK taking part as well as a Commonwealth Select team. The tournament is played with only six players in each team – as opposed to the usual 11 – with five members of the team bowling one over. 12 | October 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Trophy table at the 2018 Commonwealth Cricket Cup in Rome.

Sport

The Vatican cricket team with Pope Francis.

the wickets, the three stumps of wood defended by the batsman (bowled out), with a fielder taking a catch (out caught) or being hit on the leg defending the wickets (out leg before wicket). The sport has developed a complex rulebook over time, but the premise of scoring more runs than the opposition team remains. It can be a cruel sport, since once you’re “out” as a batsman, there are no second chances. From its inception, the game spread from England across the Commonwealth and now the strong core of Test match-playing nations include Australia, New Zealand, India, Pakistan, South Africa, Sri Lanka and the West Indies. Test matches are the longest format of cricket, and are played over five days (if a result has not already been reached) with both teams batting twice. World Cup matches are restricted to one day, with both teams batting once for 50 sixball “overs” each. Over the last few decades, cricket has continued to expand and other nations such as Bangladesh, Ireland and Afghanistan have inserted themselves alongside the elite of the game. The Italian national team, however, forms part of the underbelly of the sport alongside other “emerging” nations such as Germany, Denmark and Belgium. These countries are classed as associate members of the International Cricket

Committee (ICC), to which Italy has been affiliated since 1995. The growth of the international game took a giant step forward last year when the ICC granted all member nations full T20 international status – a move aimed at motivating smaller nations to invest and compete at a higher level. This means that Italy has joined the world rankings for the shortest format of the sport, playing its first ICC-recognised international match against Germany earlier this year. Rome-based cricketer Gayashane Munsinge had the honour of captaining Italy for the first international fixture and he led the team into the regional finals of the T20 World Cup Europe Qualifier in the Netherlands – the first step towards qualification for the next T20 World Cup. The Azzurri ended up finishing third in the competition with confidence to continue as they embark on a new adventure in the first ICC Cricket World Cup Challenge League – a competition running from 2019 to 2021 with matches against Hong Kong, Kenya, Uganda, Jersey and Bermuda. The league will consist of three World Cricket League-style single round-robin events held in the 2019-21 period, meaning each team will play a total of 15 one-day matches over the course of the tournament. This is a major step forward for Italian cricket and will give Italy a chance to qualify for the next Cricket World Cup in 2022. Wanted in Rome • October 2019 | 13

Opera Sport Capannelle racetrack – and was renamed. Forty years on, the club welcomes players from a variety of cricket-playing nations across the world. As well as a competitive first team squad, the club has a thriving junior section offering qualified coaching and a gateway into training with its senior players. In 2019, such was the demand on players that RCCC also added a second team to its bracket for the T20 competition (a shorter format consisting of 20 six-ball overs per team) known as Rome Uno.

The Australian embassy cricket team including Ambassador Greg French.

In total, there are about 30 cricket clubs across the whole of Italy. The majority are based in the northern regions of the country – however Rome has a thriving scene of its own with a number of clubs as well as the prestigious representational team of the Vatican, which was launched in 2013. Rome Capannelle Cricket Club (RCCC), based a stone’s throw from Rome’s racecourse in the Ciampino suburb, represents the city at the highest level in Italy – the Serie A, which takes place from June to August. Elsewhere, four teams – Roma, Baracca Prato, Lux Rome and Rome Bangla – play in the Interregional Centro, a regional competition, while also featuring in the national cup competitions. For Capannelle, the journey began in 1978 when current president Alfonso Jayarajah, originally from Sri Lanka and the first captain of the Italian national team, initiated its foundation alongside Massimo Brian Da Costa, Desmond O’Grady and Sam Kahale. Initially the club was based at Villa Doria Pamphilj until it moved to its home at the

However, the lack of teams in Italy does throw up its own challenges to players, as the demands on travelling for matches at the highest level are intense. With Serie A dominated by teams in the north, Capannelle’s nearest away league match is more than 400km away in Bologna with the team regularly having to board early or overnight trains to get to matches. This produces quite a challenge for the squad as it attempts to win the championship for the first time since 2013. Capannelle’s head coach, Australian Dane Kirby, also takes on the role of head coach of St Peter’s Cricket Club, whose members include priests from around the world. The team was launched with the patronage of the Pontifical Council for Culture in October 2013 and has since played a number of competitive yet friendly matches against touring teams. The idea for the team came earlier this decade from the former Australian ambassador to the Holy See, John McCarthy – who had previously been an Australian cricket and sports administrator and trustee of the Sydney Cricket Ground Trust. Earlier this year, the St Peter’s team welcomed a team to Rome from the Anglican Church in England, with St Peter's winning, having lost against the Anglican team two years ago.

Rome Capannelle trains every Wednesday at Roma Uno Centro on Viale Trastevere 143, from 17.0020.00. Training begins in late March and runs until November. All abilities and ages are welcomed. Matches are played between April and November on Sundays and bank holidays. For full details about the club see website www.rccc.it or search on Facebook. 14 | October 2019 • Wanted in Rome

to do

Mon Tue Wed Thu 1

See new work by Turner Prize-winner Tracey Emin at Galleria Lorcan O’Neill.

ART MUSIC FOOD NATURE CINEMA FAMILY THEATRE

The third annual Festival InDevinire for theatre, art and music kicks off in Pigneto.

Stop by Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin for the opening of a show by Helsinki artist Kaarina Kaikkonen.

Spend some time at the Canova exhibit which opens today at Palazzo Braschi.

Choose from over 500 labels in the Amaro bar at Il Marchese on Via di Ripetta.

Experience the might of Carthage with the exhibition at the Colosseum.

New museum Musja launches today with the show Chi ha paura del Buio?

Rome launches SPAM, a weeklong international event dedicated to architecture.

Head to Mercato Centrale Roma for lunch to try a variety of modern Italian dishes.

Check out the newlyopened Saxophone Museum in Maccarese near Rome.

Rome Film Fest kicks off with guests Ron Howard, Bill Murray and Wes Anderson.

Enjoy art events across the city for the fourth edition of Rome Art Week.

Grab tickets for concert by hit musician Mark Simons at Monk.

Get spooked at Cinècittà World with special attractions for Halloween.

Take the kids to see original Pimpa cartoon drawings at MAXXI.

Drop by Estro Costumi in Trastevere for a last-minute Halloween costume.

Take a day trip to the deserted village of Canale Monterano north of Rome.

Romaeuropa shows Forsythe’s A Quiet Evening of Dance at Teatro Olimpia.

Luneur park in EUR celebrates Halloween with parades for the kids.

Foto di skeeze da Pixabay

Fri

October Sat Sun 2019 5

Auditorium Parco della Musica presents free jazz act the Art Ensemble of Chicago.

Enjoy the weekend at the Marino Wine Festival, a short drive from Rome.

Seek out contemporary performance at Mattatoio with Japan’s Hiroaki Umeda.

Spring Attitude returns with electronic performances at MAXXI and Ex-Guido Reni.

Catch the explosive Pompei e Santorini show at the Scuderie del Quirinale.

Don’t miss Romeo and Juliet in English at the Silvano Toti Globe Theatre in Villa Borghese.

Brandi Milne’s first European show opens tonight at Dorothy Circus Gallery.

Savour the return of seasonal white truffles with a dinner at Taverna Lucifero.

Catch the closing night of Don Quixote at the Teatro dell’Opera.

25 See Bacon, Freud and the School of London at Chiostro del Bramante.

Wine connoisseurs can’t miss the Life of Wine event at the Radisson BluHotel.

27 Vatican Museums are free today with last entry at 12.30.

A short of the most rt guide toguide sometoofsome the most important international Cultural tant international Cultural Academies Rome representing mies in Romeinrepresenting from around the world riescountries from around the world in the Eternal city. Eternal city.

Cultural ultural Academies Academies AMERICAN ACADEMY IN ROME The American Academy in Rome works to promote research and independent study in the arts and humanities. Via Angelo Masina 5, tel. 065810788, www.aarome.org.

CASA DI GOETHE Rome’s museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe offers exhibitions and cultural events throughout the year. Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www.casadigoethe.it.

DEMY AUSTRIAN IN ROME CULTURAL FORUM CASA DI GOETHE CENTRE CULTUREL SAINT-LOUIS DE FRANCE ademy in Rome works to promote research and Rome’s museum The dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe The Austrian Cultural Forum hosts events dedicated to the centre offers cultural events such as film screenings, dy in the artsandand humanities. ViaViale Angelo offers and cultural events throughout the year. history culture of Austria. Bruno Buozzi 113,exhibitions tel. lectures, debates and theatre. Largo Toniolo 20, Via tel. 066802629, 810788, www.aarome.org. del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, 063608371, www.austriacult.roma.it. www.ifcsl.com.www.casadigoethe.it.

BELGIAN ACADEMY CENTRO CULTURALDE BRASIL-ITALIA URAL FORUM CENTRE CULTUREL SAINT-LOUIS FRANCE The Belgian Academy scientific and cultural Thecultural centre offers courses Portuguese and samba ltural Forum hosts eventsfacilitates dedicated to the Therelations centre offers events such ofasBrazilian film screenings, and Belgium by sponsoring researchers and artists meetings writers conferences on ure of between Austria.Italy Viale Bruno Buozzi 113, tel. lectures, debates and andhosts theatre. Largowith Toniolo 20,and tel.filmmakers, 066802629, in Italy. Via Omero 8, tel. 063201889, www.academiabelgica.it. austriacult.roma.it. www.ifcsl.com. Brazilian literature and screenings of Brazilian movies. Piazza BRITISH COUNCIL

Navona 18, tel. 0668398284, www.roma.itamaraty.gov.br/i-

MY CENTRO CULTURAL BRASIL-ITALIA t/centro_cultural_brasil-italia.xml. The British Council promotes the English language and emy facilitates scientific cultural relations The centre offersDANISH courses of Brazilian Portuguese and samba appreciation in Italy and of the UK’s creative ideas and achievemenACADEMY Belgium researchers artistswww.britishcouncil.it. and hosts meetings with writers and is filmmakers, on to Danish ts. by Viasponsoring di S. Sebastianello 16, tel. and 06478141, The Danish Academy an institutionconferences that offers support o 8, tel. 063201889, www.academiabelgica.it. Brazilian literature andinscreenings of Brazilian movies. Piazza artists Rome. Via Omero 18, tel. 063265931, ww.dkinst-rom.dk. BRITISH SCHOOL AT ROME Navona 18, tel. 0668398284, www.roma.itamaraty.gov.br/iThe British School at Rome brings scholars, artists, researchers DUTCH INSTITUTE IL t/centro_cultural_brasil-italia.xml. and architects Britain to create The Dutch Institute offers courses for students and researchers uncil promotes the from English language anda cultural exchange between Britain and Gramsci 61, tel. DANISH 063264939, and serves as a bridge between Dutch universities and Italy. Via ly of the UK’s creative ideasItaly. and Via achievemenACADEMY Omero tel. 063269621, www.knir.it. tianellowww.bsr.ac.uk. 16, tel. 06478141, www.britishcouncil.it. The Danish Academy is an10,institution that offers support to Danish artists in Rome. Via Omero 18, tel. 063265931, ww.dkinst-rom.dk. 18 | October 2019 • Wanted in Rome • april | Wanted in Rome 2017 4 L AT ROME l at Rome brings scholars, artists, researchers DUTCH INSTITUTE

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YPTIAN ACADEMY e Egyptian Academy brings Arabian, Egyptian and African ture and art to Italy. Via Omero 4, tel. 063201896, www.accamiaegitto.org.

KEATS-SHELLEY MEMORIAL HOUSE Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235,www.keats-shelley-house.it.

ENCH ACADEMY e French Academy at Villa Medici hosts artists from France d provides exhibitions and festivals throughout the year. Viale nità dei Monti 1, tel. 066761305, www.villamedici.it.

NORWEGIAN INSTITUTE The Norwegian Institute in Rome offers undergraduate and graduate courses in art history, ancient studies and Italian. Viale 30 Aprile 33, tel. 0658391007, www.hf.uio.no.

RMAN ACADEMY e German Academy offers German artists, writers, musicians architects the opportunity to study in Rome. Largo di Villa ssimo 1, tel. 064425931, www.deutsche-kultur-international.de.

POLISH CULTURAL INSTITUTE Institution dedicated to Polish history and culture as well as the promotion of dialogue between Poland and Italy. Via Vittoria Colonna 1, tel. 0636000723,www.istitutopolacco.it.

RMAN HISTORICAL INSTITUTE s institute conducts research into the history of Germany d Italy, in particular the relations between both countries. Via relia Antica 391, tel. 066604921, www.dhi-roma.it.

POLISH ACADEMY OF SCIENCE The Polish Academy is a research centre for the humanities and a scientific exchange between Poland and Italy. Vicolo Doria 2, tel. 066792170, www.accademiapolacca.it.

ETHE INSTITUT e Goethe Institut promotes education in Italy about German ture, language and history. Via Savoia 15, tel. 068440051, w.goethe.de.

ROMANIAN ACADEMY The Romanian Academy hosts events and promotes cultural relations between Romania and Italy. Piazza Josè di S. Martin 1, tel. 063201594, www.accadromania.it.

NGARIAN ACADEMY e Academy of Hungary in Rome hosts concerts, literary nts and exhibitions by Hungarian artists and scholars. Via lia 1, tel. 066889671, www.roma.balassiintezet.hu.

RUSSIAN INSTITUTE OF CULTURE AND LANGUAGE The Russian Institute provides classes in Russian language and culture. Via Farini 62, tel. 064870137.

STITUTO CERVANTES tituto Cervantes is a cultural institution created to promote teaching of Spanish language and culture. Via di Villa Albani tel. 068551949, www.cervantes.es.

LIAN INSTITUTE FOR LATIN AMERICA e Italo-Latin American Institute facilitates research into the tural, scientific, economic and social aspects of Italy and in American countries. Via Giovanni Paisiello 24, tel. 684921, www.iila.org.

ANESE CULTURAL INSTITUTE e Japanese Cultural Institute hosts hosts regular cultural nts and also offers courses in Japanese. Via Gramsci 74, tel. 3224754, www.jfroma.it.

SPANISH ACADEMY The Spanish Academy hosts artists in many fields of study and holds events that provide a cultural bridge between Spain and Italy. Piazza S. Pietro in Montorio 3, tel. 065818607, www.raer.it. SWEDISH INSTITUTE OF CLASSICAL STUDIES The Swedish Institute is a research centre dedicated to scientific research in art and archaeology. Via Omero 14, tel. 063201596, www.isvroma.it. SWISS INSTITUTE The Swiss Institute offers exhibitions, events and classes dedicated to the culture of Switzerland. Via Ludovisi 48, tel. 064814234, www.istitutosvizzero.it.

EGYPTIAN ACADEMY The Egyptian Academy brings Arabian, Egyptian and African culture and art to Italy. Via Omero 4, tel. 063201896, www.accademiaegitto.org. EGYPTIAN ACADEMY

KEATS-SHELLEY MEMORIAL HOUSE Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poe – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Piazza Spagna 26, tel. 066784235,www.keats-shelley-house.it. KEATS-SHELLEY MEMORIAL HOUSE

YPTIAN ACADEMY FRENCH ACADEMY The Egyptian Academy brings Arabian, Egyptian and African e Egyptian Academy Arabian, and African The culture French Academy at Villa Medici hosts artists from France and art tobrings Italy. Via Omero 4,Egyptian tel. 063201896, www.accature and art to Italy. Via Omero tel. 063201896, www.accaand provides exhibitions and 4, festivals throughout the year. Viale demiaegitto.org. miaegitto.org. Trinità dei Monti 1, tel. 066761305, www.villamedici.it.

KEATS-SHELLEY NORWEGIANMEMORIAL INSTITUTE HOUSE Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets Museum to Bysshe the lives of Romantic The dedicated Norwegian Institute in three Rome offers undergraduate an – John Keats, Percy Shelley and English Lord Byron. Piazza poets di – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley ancient and Lord Byron. Piazza diVia graduate courses in art history, studies and Italian. Spagna 26, tel. 066784235,www.keats-shelley-house.it. Spagna tel. 33, 066784235,www.keats-shelley-house.it. 3026, Aprile tel. 0658391007, www.hf.uio.no.

ENCH ACADEMY The French Academy at Villa Medici hosts artists from France GERMAN ACADEMY provides exhibitions andGerman festivals throughout theFrance year. Viale e French Academy at Villaoffers Medici hosts artists, artists writers, from The and German Academy musicians dei Monti 1, tel.festivals 066761305, www.villamedici.it. d provides exhibitions and the year. Viale and Trinità architects the opportunity tothroughout study in Rome. Largo di Villa nitàMassimo deiGERMAN Monti 1, tel. 066761305, www.villamedici.it. 1, tel. 064425931, www.deutsche-kultur-international.de. ACADEMY

NORWEGIAN INSTITUTE The Norwegian Institute INSTITUTE in Rome offers undergraduate and POLISH CULTURAL courses in art history, ancient studies and Italian.as Viale Thegraduate Norwegian Institute in Polish Rome offers undergraduate andas th Institution dedicated to history and culture well 30promotion Aprile 33, tel. 0658391007, www.hf.uio.no. graduate courses art history, ancientPoland studiesand andItaly. Italian. Viale ofin dialogue between Via Vittor 30 POLISH Aprile 33, tel. 0658391007, www.hf.uio.no. Colonna 1, tel. 0636000723,www.istitutopolacco.it. CULTURAL INSTITUTE

FRENCH ACADEMY

NORWEGIAN INSTITUTE

RMAN ACADEMY GERMAN HISTORICAL INSTITUTE and architects the opportunity to study in Rome. Largo di Villa e German Academy offers German artists, writers, musicians ThisMassimo institute conducts research into the history of Germany 1, tel. 064425931, www.deutsche-kultur-international.de. architects opportunity study in Rome. both Largocountries. di Villa Via and Italy, the in particular the to relations between HISTORICAL INSTITUTE ssimo 1,GERMAN tel.Antica 064425931, www.deutsche-kultur-international.de. Aurelia 391, tel. 066604921, www.dhi-roma.it.

Institution dedicated to Polish history and culture as well as the POLISH CULTURAL INSTITUTE POLISH ACADEMY OF SCIENCE promotion of dialogue between Poland and Italy. Via Vittoria Institution dedicated to Polish history and culture as well as the an The Polish Academy is a research centre for the humanities Colonna 1, tel. 0636000723,www.istitutopolacco.it. promotion of dialogue between Poland and Italy. Vittoria a scientific exchange between Poland and Italy.Via Vicolo Doria POLISH OF SCIENCE Colonna 1, ACADEMY tel. 0636000723,www.istitutopolacco.it. tel. 066792170, www.accademiapolacca.it.

RMAN HISTORICAL INSTITUTE GOETHE INSTITUT and Italy, in particular the relations between both countries. Via Antica 391, tel. 066604921, s institute conducts research into thewww.dhi-roma.it. history of Germany The Aurelia Goethe Institut promotes education in Italy about German d Italy, in particular the relations both 15, countries. Via culture, language and history.between Via Savoia tel. 068440051, GOETHE INSTITUT www.goethe.de. relia Antica 391, tel.Institut 066604921, www.dhi-roma.it. The Goethe promotes education in Italy about German

POLISH ACADEMY OF SCIENCE ROMANIAN ACADEMY a scientific exchange between Poland and Italy. Vicolo Doria 2, 066792170, www.accademiapolacca.it. Thetel.Polish Academy is a research centre for the The Romanian Academy hosts events andhumanities promotes and cultur a scientific exchange between Poland and Italy. Doria 2, relations between Romania and Italy. PiazzaVicolo Josè di S. Martin ROMANIAN ACADEMY tel.Romanian 063201594, www.accadromania.it. tel.The 066792170, www.accademiapolacca.it. Academy hosts events and promotes cultural

The German Academy offers German artists, writers, musicians

This institute conducts research into the history of Germany

The Polish Academy is a research centre for the humanities and

relations between RomaniaOF andCULTURE Italy. PiazzaAND Josè LANGUAGE di S. Martin 1, RUSSIAN INSTITUTE ROMANIAN ACADEMY tel. 063201594, www.accadromania.it. The Russian Institutehosts provides classes Russian language The Romanian Academy events and inpromotes cultural an RUSSIAN INSTITUTE OF LANGUAGE culture. Via Farini 62,CULTURE tel. relations between Romania and064870137. Italy.AND Piazza Josè di S. Martin 1, Russian Institute provides classes in Russian language and tel.The 063201594, www.accadromania.it. SPANISH ACADEMY culture. Via Farini 62, tel. 064870137. events and exhibitions by Hungarian artists and scholars. Via The Spanish Academy hosts artists many fields of study an INSTITUTO CERVANTES RUSSIAN INSTITUTE OF CULTURE ANDinLANGUAGE NGARIAN GiuliaACADEMY 1, tel. 066889671, www.roma.balassiintezet.hu. SPANISH ACADEMY holds events thatprovides provide classes a cultural bridge between Instituto Cervantes is aincultural createdliterary to promote The Russian Institute in Russian languageSpain and an e Academy of Hungary Rome institution hosts concerts, The Spanish Academy hosts artists in many fields of study and INSTITUTO CERVANTES Italy. Piazza S. Pietro in Montorio 3, tel. 065818607, www.raer teaching of Spanish language and culture. Via di Villa Albani culture. Via Farini 62, tel. 064870137. ntsthe and exhibitions by Hungarian artists and scholars. Via holds events that provide a cultural bridge between Spain and Instituto Cervantes is a cultural institution created to promote tel. 068551949, www.cervantes.es. lia16, 1, tel. www.roma.balassiintezet.hu. Italy. Piazza S. INSTITUTE Pietro in Montorio 3, tel. 065818607, www.raer.it. the066889671, teaching of Spanish language and culture. Via di Villa Albani SWEDISH OF CLASSICAL STUDIES SPANISH ACADEMY 16, CERVANTES tel.INSTITUTE 068551949, www.cervantes.es. The Swedish Institute isartists a research centre dedicated scient ITALIAN FOR LATIN AMERICA TheSWEDISH Spanish Academy hosts in many fields of studytoand STITUTO INSTITUTE OF CLASSICAL STUDIES fic research in is arta aresearch and archaeology. ViatoOmero 14, te TheCervantes Italo-Latin Institute facilitates into the holds The Swedish Institute centre dedicated scientiITALIAN INSTITUTE FOR LATIN AMERICA events that provide cultural bridge between Spain and tituto isAmerican a cultural institution createdresearch to promote fic 063201596, research inwww.isvroma.it. artin and archaeology. Via Omero www.raer.it. 14, tel. TheofItalo-Latin American Institute facilitates into the cultural, scientific, economic and social aspects Italy and Italy. Piazza S. Pietro Montorio 3, tel. 065818607, teaching Spanish language and culture. Via diresearch Villaof Albani 063201596, www.isvroma.it. cultural, scientific, economic social aspects of Italy American countries. ViaandGiovanni Paisiello 24,and tel. tel.Latin 068551949, www.cervantes.es. SWISSINSTITUTE INSTITUTEOF CLASSICAL STUDIES SWEDISH Latin American countries. Via Giovanni Paisiello 24, tel. 06684921, www.iila.org. The INSTITUTE Swiss Institute offers exhibitions, events and classe TheSWISS Swedish Institute is a research centre dedicated to scientiLIAN INSTITUTE FOR LATIN AMERICA 06684921, www.iila.org. The Swiss Institute offers exhibitions, events and classes dedicatedinto art the and culture of Switzerland. Ludovisi 48, te JAPANESEAmerican CULTURAL INSTITUTE fic research archaeology. Via Via Omero 14, tel. e Italo-Latin Institute facilitates research into the dedicated to the culture of Switzerland. Via Ludovisi 48, tel. JAPANESE CULTURAL INSTITUTE 064814234, www.istitutosvizzero.it. Thescientific, Japanese economic Cultural Institute hosts hostsofregular cultural 063201596, www.isvroma.it. tural, and social aspects Italy and 064814234, www.istitutosvizzero.it. The Japanese Cultural Institute hosts hosts regular cultural andand also offers courses ininJapanese. Via Gramsci 74,tel. tel. in events American countries. Via Giovanni Paisiello 24, tel. events also offers courses Japanese. Via Gramsci 74, SWISS INSTITUTE 063224754, www.jfroma.it. 684921, www.iila.org. 063224754, www.jfroma.it. The Swiss Institute offers exhibitions, events and classes dedicated to the culture of Switzerland. Via Ludovisi 48, tel. ANESE CULTURAL INSTITUTE 064814234, www.istitutosvizzero.it. e Japanese Cultural Institute hosts hosts regular cultural nts and also offers courses in Japanese. Via Gramsci 74, tel. 3224754, www.jfroma.it.

culture, language and history. Via Savoia 15, tel. 068440051, HUNGARIAN ACADEMY ETHE INSTITUT www.goethe.de. The Academy of Hungary in Rome hostsabout concerts, literary e Goethe Institut promotes education in Italy German HUNGARIAN events and exhibitions by Via Hungarian artists scholars. Via ture, language and ACADEMY history. Savoia 15, tel. and 068440051, The Academy of Hungary in Rome hosts concerts, literary Giulia 1, tel. 066889671, www.roma.balassiintezet.hu. w.goethe.de.

Wanted in Rome • april 2017 | 4

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ROME'S MAJOR

MUSEUMS VATICAN MUSEUMS Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums

Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

STATE MUSEUMS Baths of Diocletian

Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Borghese Museum

Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

22 | October 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Crypta Balbi

Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's modern art collection. Mon closed.

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Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS Casa di Goethe

CITY MUSEUMS

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Centrale Montemartini

Chiostro Del Bramante

Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

STUDY ABROAD AND DEGREE PROGRAMS IN ROME Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun.

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Galleria Colonna

Capitoline Museums

Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

MACRO Asilo

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space until the end of 2019. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.

MATTATOIO

Giorgio de Chirico House Museum

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking.

Keats-Shelley House

Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking.

Museo storico della Liberazione

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it. Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from 1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.

Museo Canonica

MUSJA

Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).

Museo Napoleonico

Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.

Privately owned museum dedicated to modern and contemporary Italian and international art. Via dei Chiavari 7, tel. 0668210213, www.musja.it.

Palazzo Merulana

Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it. Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection, including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation. 09.00-20.00. Tues closed.

www.johncabot.edu admissions@johncabot.edu Wanted in Rome • October 2019 | 23

Join us on Your Journey

ROME'S MAJOR

MUSEUMS VATICAN MUSEUMS

Crypta Balbi

Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums

STATE MUSEUMS Baths of Diocletian

Borghese Museum

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Via di Villa Lauchli 180 Colosseum, Roman 00191 Rome, Italyforum and Palatine Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza +39 06 362 91012 di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. www.marymountrome.com Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and admissions@marymountrome.com Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colos-

seo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

24 | October 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

MAXXI

L L NG OO OO NI CH AR CH M S S LE H RA Y -5 RY IG RL 2 TA OG H S EA E EN -11 D PR AG EM 6 AN IB 8 S EL E LE -1 NG 2 AG IDD S 11 DI - 1 IES RK AN 11 SIT WO M E R T AG TST ES D VE NE OU A NI L GR P U BA O TO GL A

Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS Casa di Goethe

CITY MUSEUMS

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Centrale Montemartini

Chiostro Del Bramante

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Galleria Colonna

Capitoline Museums

Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

MACRO Asilo

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space until the end of 2019. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.

MATTATOIO

Giorgio de Chirico House Museum

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Keats-Shelley House

Museo storico della Liberazione

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Museo Canonica

MUSJA

Museo Napoleonico

Privately owned museum dedicated to modern and contemporary Italian and international art. Via dei Chiavari 7, tel. 0668210213, www.musja.it.

Palazzo Merulana

Wanted in Rome • October 2019 | 25

ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY

ART GALLERIES

1/9 Unosunove

1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.

A.A.M. Architettura

Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ff-maam.it.

Contemporary Cluster

Visual art, design, architecture, fashion design and beauty apothecary in a 17th-century palace. Via dei Barbieri 7, tel. 0668805928, www.contemporarycluster.com.

C.R.E.T.A.

Cultural association promoting ceramics and the visual, humanistic, musical and culinary arts through workshops, exhibitions and artist residencies. Palazzo Delfini, Via dei Delfini 17, tel. 0689827701, www.cretarome.com.

Dorothy Circus Gallery

Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.

Ex Elettrofonica

This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.

Fondazione Memmo

Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.

Fondazione Pastificio Cerere

This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pastificiocerere.com.

Fondazione Volume!

The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.

26 | October 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Franz Paludetto

Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.

Frutta

This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via dei Salumi 53 tel. 0645508934, www.fruttagallery.com.

Gagosian Gallery

The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

GALLA

Exhibition space designed to showcase original, unconventional art works at affordable prices by artists working in various fields. Via degli Zingari 28, tel. 3476552515, www.facebook.com/GALLAmonti.

Galleria Alessandro Bonomo

Gallery showing the works of important Italian and international visual artists. Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858, www.bonomogallery.com.

Galleria Valentina Bonomo

Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works specifically for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte

Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Galleria della Tartaruga

Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.

Galleria Il Segno

Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.

Galleria Mucciaccia

Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.

Galleria Russo

Operativa Arte Contemporanea

A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.

Pian de Giullari

This historic gallery holds group and solo exhibitions showcasing the work of major 20th-century Italian painters alongside promising new Italian artists. Via Alibert 20, tel. 066789949, www.galleriarusso.it.

Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.

Galleria Varsi

Plus Arte Puls

A dynamic gallery near Campo deâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di Grotta Pinta 38, tel. 066865415, www.galleriavarsi.it.

Gavin Brown's Enterprise

New York gallerist Gavin Brown shows the work of international artists at his Trastevere gallery in a deconsecrated church dating to the eighth century. S. Andrea de Scaphis, Via dei Vascellari 69, www.gavinbrown.biz.

Il Ponte Contemporanea

Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls.com.

RvB ARTS

Rome-based gallery specialising in affordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www.rvbarts.com.

Sala 1

Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via Giuseppe Acerbi 31A, tel. 0653098768, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.

This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.

La Nuova Pesa

S.T. Foto libreria galleria

Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.

Magazzino dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Arte Moderna

Contemporary art gallery that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.

Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri

The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.

T293

Monitor

The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it.

Nero Gallery

The Gallery Apart

Space dedicated to showcasing young international artists working in pop surrealism, lowbrow art, dark art, comic art and surrealism. Via Castruccio Castracane 9, tel. 0627801418, www.nerogallery.com.

This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.

Nomas Foundation

TraleVolte

This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, tel. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.

Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.

Contemporary art gallery focusing on the relationship between art and architecture, hosting solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org.

White Noise Gallery

Based in the S. Lorenzo district, this gallery exhibits unconventional work by young Italian and international artists. Via della Seggiola 9, tel. 066832833, www.whitenoisegallery.it.

Wunderkammern

This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www.wunderkammern.net.

Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin

Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria offers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it. Wanted in Rome â&#x20AC;˘ October 2019 | 27

where to go in Rome WHAT’S ON

Brandi Milne at Dorothy Circus Gallery. Learn Your Lessons Well (Dear Boy). See page 31.

Wanted in Rome • October 2019 | 29

FESTIVALS

30 | October 2019 â&#x20AC;¢ Wanted in Rome

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EXHIBITIONS

EXHIBITIONS ALTAN: PIMPA, CIPPUTI E ALTRI PENSATORI 23 Oct-12 Jan

MAXXI dedicates a major exhibition to the Italian cartoonist and satirist Altan, the creator of Pimpa, the red and white polkadot cartoon puppy, and Cipputi, the factory worker comic strip character. The exhibition will comprise original drawings, illustrations, posters and animated films. MAXXI, Via Guido Reni 4A, www.maxxi.art.

BRANDI MILNE: ONLY IN DREAMS 19 Oct-19 Nov

Dorothy Circus Gallery presents the first European show by the American artist Brandi Milne whose work is influenced by music and the cartoon world. Milne’s bittersweet works address themes of anxiety, fear and loss, and are inspired by Disney characters, Gumby and Pokey, vintage decorations, the music of Elton John and the writings from Jack Kerouac. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www. dorothycircusgallery.it.

MO(NU)MENTUM: ROBERT MORRIS 2015 - 2018 15 Oct-26 Jan

The Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna holds the first Robert Morris show since the death of the American artist in November 2018. A founding member and leading exponent of American Minimalism, Morris was involved in various other movements such as Land art over the course of his 60-year career. The works on display in Rome were produced in the final years of his life and have never been shown in Europe. The sculptures of human figures belong to the series MOLTINGSEXOSKELETONSSHROUDS, made of Belgian linen soaked

Altan exhibition at MAXXI. Pimpa and Armando.

in resin and placed over models to take on their form, and Boustrophedons, made from carbon fibre. Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, www.gallerianazionale. com.

JAN FABRE: THE RYTHYM OF THE BRAIN 11 Oct-23 Feb

In conjunction with the Romaeuropa Festival, Palazzo Merulana stages an exhibition of work by the multidisciplinary Belgian artist Jan Fabre. The exhibition will feature site-specific sculptures as well as drawings and performance film, displayed among the museum’s 20th-century Italian paintings. Palazzo Merulana, Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it.

POMPEII AND SANTORINI 11 Oct-6 Jan

This exhibition at the Scuderie del Quirinale features artefacts from the excavations of Akrotiri, a thriving port city on the Greek island of Santorini that was buried by a volcanic eruption in 1628 BC. The Hellenistic finds will be contrasted with those from Pompeii, which came to a similarly devastating end some

1,700 years later, in 79 AD. In addition to fragments of frescoes, jewels, ceramics and furniture, the exhibition will include works by modern and contemporary artists including J. M. W. Turner, Renato Guttuso, Andy Warhol, Alberto Burri, Giuseppe Penone and Damian Hirst, highlighting how the rediscovery of buried cities has inspired artists through the centuries. Scuderie del Quirinale, Via Ventiquattro Maggio 16, www. scuderiequirinale.it.

MICHELANGELO A COLORI 11 Oct-6 Jan

Palazzo Barberini displays reproductions of a series of drawings by Michelangelo alongside paintings by some of his most important followers such as Marcello Venusti, Lelio Orsi, Marco Pino and Jacopino del Conte. The focus of the exhibition is the degree to which Michelangelo influenced a multitude of artists in the 16th century. Palazzo Barberini, Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. www.barberinicorsini.org.

MEDARDO ROSSO 9 Oct-2 Feb

Palazzo Altemps hosts the postImpressionistic sculptures of Wanted in Rome • October 2019 | 31

32 | October 2019 â&#x20AC;¢ Wanted in Rome

Medardo Rosso (1858-1928) among its collection of classical Greek and Roman sculpture. The museum is the first in Rome to honour the Turin artist with an exhibition which features works in wax, plaster and bronze alongside archive photographs. Piazza di S. Apollinare 46, tel. 06684851, www.museonazionaleromano. beniculturali.it.

CANOVA: ETERNA BELLEZZA 9 Oct-15 March

Palazzo Braschi stages an exhibition of works by Italian neoclassical sculptor Antonio Canova (1757-1822), regarded by many as the greatest of the neoclassical artists. Canova is best known for his magnificent marble sculptures such as Amore e Psiche, Tre Grazie and Paolina Borghese. The exhibition includes more than 170 works by Canova and his contemporaries. Piazza Navona 2, tel. 060608, www.museodiroma.it.

THE DARK SIDE 8 Oct-1 March

Musja, the new private museum in central Rome, launches with a trilogy of exhibitions curated by the former MACRO director Danilo Eccher, who recently curated several successful shows at Chiostro del Bramante. The exhibition series, titled The Dark Side, begins with Who is afraid of the dark? featuring large sitespecific installations and works by 13 important international artists including Gregor Schneider, Robert Longo, Hermann Nitsch, Tony Oursler, Monster Chetwynd, Christian Boltanski and Gino De Dominicis. See Art News page 36. Musja, Via dei Chiavari 7, tel. 0668210213, www.musja.it.

SECRET IMPRESSIONISTS 6 Oct-8 March

Palazzo Bonaparte, a major new exhibition space located where Via del Corso meets Piazza Venezia, launches with an exhibition comprising more than 50 works from important private collections. The works, mostly never shown in public before, are by Monet,

Mo(nu)mentum. Robert Morris 2015 - 2018 at Galleria Nazionale. Maybe They Won’t Find Out.

Renoir, Cézanne, Pissarro, Sisley, Morisot, Gauguin and Signac. Generali Valore Cultura, Palazzo Bonaparte, Piazza Venezia 5, www. palazzobonaparte.it.

CARTHAGO: THE IMMORTAL MYTH 27 Sept-29 March

The history and culture of Carthage, one of the most powerful cities of the ancient Mediterranean, is celebrated with a large-scale exhibition at the Colosseum, the Temple of Romulus and the Roman Forum. On display are precious artefacts on loan from national archaeological museums in Italy as well as the Carthage National Museum and the Bardo in Tunisia, and the national museums of Beirut, Madrid and Cartagena. The exhibition also features reconstructions and multimedia installations, highlighting a series of historical events that unite the two great powers of the ancient world. Carthage was destroyed by the Roman Republic in the Third Punic War in 146 BC before being redeveloped as Roman Carthage, which became the major city of the Roman Empire in the province of Africa. Exhibition visitors to the Colosseum will be greeted by a reconstruction of the terrible

deity Moloch, featured in the 1914 film Cabiria. For details see www. parcocolosseo.it.

LA SCUOLA DI LONDRA: OPERE DELLA TATE 26 Sept-23 Feb

Rome’s Chiostro del Bramante is to host a major exhibition dedicated to the School of London, featuring paintings by Lucian Freud and Francis Bacon, organised in collaboration with the Tate Britain in London. The show will unite the works of Bacon and Freud for the first time in Italy, highlighting a significant chapter of international contemporary art in the 20th century. The exhibition comprises 45 paintings, drawings and engravings by six artists: Michael Andrews, Frank Auerbach, Leon Kossoff and Paula Rego, in addition to Freud and Bacon. The figurative works span more than seven decades, from 1945 until 2004, and are described by the Chiostro del Bramante as “direct, shocking and no-filter.” The works share raw and emotionally-charged subject matter, with themes including the fragility of the human condition, war, immigration, excess and the search for truth. Highlights of the show will include Bacon’s Study for a Portrait (1952) and Portrait of Isabel Wanted in Rome • October 2019 | 33

LUCA SIGNORELLI AND ROME 19 July-3 Nov

The Capitoline Museums pay tribute to Luca Signorelli (c.1450-1523), one of Italy’s greatest Renaissance artists whose work influenced Raphael and Michelangelo. Described as a “selection of highly prestigious works” from Italian and foreign collections, the exhibition highlights Rome’s direct and indirect link in Signorelli’s work. Musei Capitolini, Piazza del Campidoglio 1, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. See review page 36.

COLORI DEGLI ETRUSCHI The Dark Side at Musja. Bat Panel by Monster Chetwynd. Photo Andrea Rossetti. Courtesy Massimo De Carlo, Milan-London-Hong Kong and the artist.

Rawsthorne (1966), and Freud’s Girl with a White Dog (1950) and Standing by the Rags (1988). The term ‘School of London’ was coined by artist R.B. Kitaj to describe a group of London-based artists pursuing forms of figurative painting in the face of avantgarde approaches in the 1970s. Chiostro del Bramante, Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www. chiostrodelbramante.it.

TRACEY EMIN: LEAVING 21 Sept-20 Nov

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill presents its sixth exhibition dedicated to British contemporary artist Tracey Emin who shot to international fame in 1998 with her controversial installation My Bed. Born in 1963, Emin is a leading figure of the Young British Artists movement - a loose group of visual artists who began exhibiting together in London in 1988. Her Rome exhibition comprises new paintings and works on paper. Galleria Lorcan O’Neill, Vicolo dei Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www. lorcanoneill.com.

15 important contemporary Italian and international artists. The exhibition’s title refers to the ancient Greeks’ two words for time: chronos, referring to chronological time, and kairos, relating to a time for action. The collective show’s double definition concept is expressed in the site-specific works which act as a bridge between ancient and contemporary. Specially-trained art history students from Rome’s La Sapienza University are on hand to answer visitors’ questions about the audiovisual pieces and installations displayed throughout the Palatine Hill. The exhibiting artists include Nina Beier, Catherine Biocca, Jimmie Durham, Matt Mullican and Hans Op de Beeck. For details see website, www.parcocolosseo.it.

11 July-2 Feb

Centrale Montemartini holds an exhibition of terracotta treasures from the Etruscan era from the Cerveteri area of north Lazio. The plates and decorative architectural mouldings were recently returned to Italy after a joint operation by the Carabinieri and the culture ministry to combat the illegal trafficking of archaeological finds. Centrale Montemartini, Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www. centralemontemartini.org.

AI NATI OGGI 2 July-31 Dec

A public art project in Piazza del Popolo celebrates the “universal event of birth”, according to its organisers the MAXXI Museo Nazionale delle Arti XXI secolo. Entitled Ai nati oggi, the installation by artist Alberto Garutti revolves around the square’s lampposts being connected to the maternity

KRONOS E KAIROS 19 July-3 Nov

The open-air exhibition Kronos and Kairos. The times of contemporary art takes place at various outdoor venues around the Palatine Hill and features the work of

34 | October 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Secret Impressionists at Palazzo Bonaparte. Sul divano by Federico Zandomeneghi. Private collection, Italy.

ward at Rome’s Gemelli hospital. Each time the light pulses – for about 30 seconds – it signifies the birth of a baby. MAXXI says the installation is dedicated to each new arrival and all the newly-born babies that day in Rome. For details see MAXXI website, www.maxxi.art.

BVLGARI, THE STORY, THE DREAM 26 June-3 Nov

Luxury jeweller Bulgari displays sumptuous jewellery and vintage fashion from the Dolce Vita era at an exhibition hosted in Rome’s Palazzo Venezia and Castel S. Angelo. Entitled Bvlgari, the story, the dream, the show features the diamond-andsapphire sautoir necklace given to Elizabeth Taylor by Hollywood star Richard Burton during their stormy love affair. The history of the Bulgari brand is told at Palazzo Venezia while the Hollywood and the Tiber section at Castel S. Angelo features jewels owned or worn by legendary actresses including Sophia Loren, Gina Lollobrigida, Anna Magnani and Audrey Hepburn. For exhibition details see ArtCity website, www.artcity.it.

MARIA LAI. HOLDING THE SUN BY THE HAND 19 June-12 Jan

On the centerary of the artist’s birth, MAXXI devotes a major exhibition to Maria Lai (1919-2013), considered

Luca Signorelli at the Capitoline Museums. Martirio di S. Sebastiano, c. 1498, Città di Castello, Perugia.

one of the more individual figures in Italian contemporary art. The show comprises more than 100 works spanning from the early 1960s through to her final years, and includes sewn books, sculptures, public works and her celebrated “looms”. MAXXI, Via Guido Reni 4A, www.maxxi.art. See other exhibitions on our website www.wantedinrome.com. Bacon, Freud and the School of London at Chiostro del Bramante. Girl with a White Dog (1950-1) by Lucian Freud. © Tate.

Wanted in Rome • October 2019 | 35

Luca Signorelli and Rome. Oblivion and Rediscovery

Review by Martin Bennett Luca Signorelli, most fortunate and most neglected among painters, was fortunate in his early patrons. First there was Lorenzo de’ Medici; then came Sixtus IV for whom he painted two of the sidewall scenes in the Sistine Chapel. The artists originally commissioned, unable to meet the pope’s deadline, co-opted Signorelli as an assistant. He was fortunate again in that Sixtus supervised an archaeological golden age. Ancient statues were being unearthed almost daily and were then displayed by papal order on the Campidoglio. Signorelli was quick to take advantage and inspiration. The Boy with a Thorn, see image above, one statue in bronze, one in marble, is repeated in the background of two of his altar pieces. Under Pope Julius II Signorelli suffered a downturn although things initially promised well. Bramante, Perugino, Pinturicchio, Perugino and Signorelli were invited to a working dinner to discuss decorations for a new wing, now known as the Raphael rooms. Work started promptly. Then, with just a few walls completed, it promptly stopped. Raphael, 33 years younger than Signorelli, had arrived. The works were not just stopped but were also painted over by Raphael. Under Julius’s successor, Medici Pope Leo X, Signorelli, a favourite of the pope’s father, Lorenzo, back in Florence, must have expected better but the hoped-for plum commissions failed to materialise. As this excellently curated exhibition narrates, Signorelli fell into virtual oblivion until his rediscovery in the 1770s by Fuseli, then Canova. The German Nazarenes brought further recognition, then Degas and Cezanne whose monumental Bathers critics have been linked with Signorelli's equally monumental and infinitely more agile proto-types in Orvieto’s cathedral. More recently an essay by Geoff Dyer argues that Luca’s action-packed frescoes prefigure Captain Marvel and other comic strips of the 1950s and 60s. Now to the works. A side-video documents the restoration of the St Sebastian’s Martyrdom altar piece (see page 35) which was commissioned after a 1497 visitation of the plague that took away Signorelli’s eldest daughter and young son in 1502. Sebastian was seen as a protector; he reputedly survived his ordeal by archery as depicted

36 | October 2019 • Wanted in Rome

The Boy with a Thorn alongside works by Signorelli at the Capitoline Museums.

here, only to be cudgeled to death two years later. Down the pink Renaissance street a group of soldiers march the saint to his execution place; off left gazes stern-faced Emperor Diocletian and eroded versions of the Arch of Constantine and the Colosseum tower above. More Roman connections feature in Christ on the Cross and Mary Magdalene. In an artistic first Signorelli reprises the inscription “Jesus of Nazareth, king of the Jews” in three languages, using as a model of the relic found, as legend has it, by Helen, Constantine’s mother and brought to Rome in the 5th century. The other link is the ruined Temple (The Forum’s Temple of Venus?) and a tiny Castel S. Angelo/Hadrian’s mausoleum. Lizard-threaded skull in front signals Golgotha; the circle of flowers, with Mary Magdalene at its centre, symbolising rebirth is depicted in great detail. This contrasts with the desolate landscape behind. Room IV recreates Signorelli's masterwork, his Apocalypse sequence in Orvieto’s Duomo in brightlyilluminated virtual format. In the late 15th century many believed the End was nigh. Plague was rife and Constantinople had fallen to the Turks. Add to this the belligerent popes and French and Spanish invasions from the West. The most immediate effect for Signorelli, however, was the Medici’s expulsion from Florence (1494), and the rise of the Puritan and art-burning preacher / eventual heretic Savonarola. Signorelli had little difficulty in casting him as the Antichrist. From Apocalypse to ‘luminous inner grace’. Room V displays three Madonnas. The queen of them is surely that painted shortly before (or during? or after?) the death of the artist’s wife Galizza and donated to their daughter Gabriella. Combining melancholy, tenderness and rigour, her gaze renders any halo unnecessary. Oblivion and Rediscoveries is the subtitle of Federica Papi’s catalogue: the emphasis is in fascinatingly definitive favour of the latter. Exhibition showing at Capitoline Museums until 3 November.

Andrea Lucchesini in recital at S. Cecilia on 28 Oct.

CLASSICAL ACCADEMIA FILARMONICA ROMANA LA CAMBIALE DI MATRIMONIO BY ROSSINI 12-13 Oct

To start the season Rossini’s oneact farce will be performed at Villa Torlonia with the ensemble of advanced students from S. Cecilia and pianists Maria Laura Berardo and Annie Corrado. The production is part of the Filarmonica’s RossinniLab project. For more details of the 2019-2020 season see www.filarmonicaromana.org.

SOL GABETTA, NELSON GOERNER 7 Nov

This concert of music by Brahms, Frank and Schubert performed by cellist Sol Gabetta and pianist Nelson Goerner starts the Accademia’s concert season at Teatro Argentina. For more details of the 2019-2020 season see www. filarmonicaromana.org.

QUARTETTO LYSKAMM 10 Nov

This concert of music by Bartok, Beethoven and Casale is part of the series of all 18 of Beethoven’s string quartets and Bartok’s six quartets performed by the Quartetto Lyskamm, which was founded in Milan in 2008 and is now in residence at the Accademia Filarmonica Romana for the next three seasons. Their recording of Bartok’s 4th and 6th quratet was released by Amadeus earlier this year. Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Sala Casella, Via Flaminia 118, www.filarmonicaromana.org.

with destruction. Berlioz revised it for the second time just a couple of years before his death in 1869. Grande Messe des Morts was performed by S. Cecilia on its Amsterdam tournee in May, conducted by Antonio Pappano and with Javier Camarena. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www. auditorium.com.

BERLIOZ AND LISZT 17-19 Oct

ACCADEMIA S. CECILIA

Antonio Pappano also conducts this concert with two pieces by Berlioz (the overture to Benvenuto Cellini and the Sinfonia Fantastica), with Eveny Kissin piano playing Liszt’s piano concerto no 1. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

BERLIOZ

SIBELIUS CONCERTO FOR VIOLIN

Antonio Pappano conducts tenor Javier Camarena in Grande Messe des morts, one of Berlioz’s best known works and the one he said he would save if all the others were threatened

Anna Tifu plays the Siberlius concerto for violin conducted by Mikko Franck. The two other pieces on the programme are Beatrice and Benedict by Berlioz and Stravinski’s

10-12 Oct

24-25 Oct

Wanted in Rome • October 2019 | 37

Right of Spring. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

ANDREA LUCCHESINI 28 Oct

Pianist Andrea Lucchesini gives a recital of four pieces by Schumann, Pappillons, Carnaval, Three Romances and Fantasia. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

MARTHA ARGERICH 31 Oct- 2 Nov

Martha Argerich interprets Chopin, conducted by Antonio Pappano. Works by Weber and Schumann are also on the programme. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

is also launching a new IUCTube initiative as a background and guide to its concerts. The project will be in the hands of the music students at the Sapienza University. Concerts are at the Aula Magna, Università La Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it.

BRANDENBURG CONCERTOS 19 Oct

Bach’s six Brandenburg concertos are played by the Orchestra Barocca Zefiro, conducted by Alfredo Bernadini who also plays the oboe. This baroque orchestra, founded in 1989, and named after Zephyrus the god of the gentle western wind, focuses on wind instruments, as its name might suggest, and specialises in 18th-century baroque music. Aula Magna, Università La Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it.

ISTITUZIONE UNIVERSITARIO DEI CONCERTI GIUSEPPE ALBANESE 26 Oct LES ARTS FLORISSANTS Pianist Giuseppe Albanese 15 Oct

This French vocal group, Les Arts Florissants, conducted by Paul Agnew, will inaugurate the IUC season with an integral performance of the third book of Carlo Gesualdo da Venosa’s madrigals. They will return in Feb 2020 to perform the fourth book as part of Les Arts Florissant project to perform all Gesualdo’s madrigals. This year the IUC celebrates is 75th anniversary with a new project to take music into schools with concerts and talks, starting in the spring. It

plays music by Beethoven, Schumann, Stravinsky, Debussy and Ravel, under the title of the Beethoven piece he performs, Al chiaro di luna. Aula Magna, Università La Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it.

ROBERTO PROSSEDA DENTRO LE NOTE 29 Oct

This is the first in a new series called Dentro le Note in which Roberto

Prosedda guides the audiences through certain piano masterpieces. For the first in the series he talks about two Mozart piano pieces, Fantasy in C minor and Sonata in C minor.

OTHER VENUES The Oratorio Gonfalone has concerts every Thursday evening, starting on 17 Oct, in the beautiful church on Via del Gonfalone 32 A, just off Via Giulia. This season it is also organising concerts and guided art tours on 23 Nov and 14 Dec. It starts the season with a flute concert by Matteo Evangelisti on 17 Oct and then a clarinet concert by Gianluigi Caldarola on 24 Oct. This is followed on 31 Oct by an evening called “Organ at the time of Leonardo” with Andrea Coen on the organ and Edoardo Coen as narrator, to mark the 500th anniversay of Leonardo da Vinci’s death in May 1519. Some of Rome’s English speaking churches, such as St Paul’s within the Walls, All Saints’ Anglican church, Ponte S. Angelo Methodist church and the Oratorio Caravita also have concerts and opera recitals. S. Agnese in Agone in Piazza Navona and Palazzo Doria Pamphilj are two other places that often offer concerts and opera recitals. See www.romaoperaomnia.com.

The Orchestra Barocca Zefiro plays all of Bach’s Brandenburg concertos at the IUC on 19 Oct.

38 | October 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Glen Hansard performs at Auditorium Parco della Musica on 12 November.

JETHRO TULL 7 Nov

ROCK, POP, JAZz PETER DOHERTY 12 OCT

English musician Peter Doherty performs in Rome as part of a European tour. No stranger to controversy, Doherty is best known

for fronting Indie bands including The Libertines and Babyshambles. Teatro Centrale, Via Celsa 6, tel. 066780501.

Veteran British rock band Jethro Tull, fronted by pioneering musician Ian Anderson, performs at the Auditorium Parco della Musica. Anderson is best known for his dynamic live flute performances with the band which since its formation in 1967 has embraced sounds ranging from folk to prog rock. The group has sold 65 million records and played more than 3,000 concerts in 40 countries. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via P. de Coubertin 30, tel. 06802411, www.auditorium.com.

GLEN HANSARD 12 Nov

Acclaimed Irish singer-songwriter Glen Hansard performs at the Auditorium Parco della Musica as part of This Wild Willing tour. Best known as the lead singer with Dublin group The Frames, and one half of folk rock duo The Swell Season, Hansard shot to international fame with his Oscar-winning song Falling Slowly, performed with Markéta Irglová in the musical romance Once. Auditorium Parco Della Musica, Via P. de Coubertin 30, tel. 06802411, www.auditorium.com.

RICKIE LEE JONES 16 Nov

Pete Doherty plays at Teatro Centrale on 12 October.

The American singer-songwriter Rickie Lee Jones plays at the Auditorium Parco della Musica on 16 November. Over the course of her five-decade career, Jones has recorded in various musical styles including rock, R&B, blues, pop, soul and jazz, and has won two Grammy Awards. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via P. de Coubertin 30, tel. 06802411, www. auditorium.com. Wanted in Rome • October 2019 | 39

Marianela Nunez and Roberto Bolle in Onegin with choreography by John Cranko.

ROME ACCADEMIA FILARMONICA ROMANA MIGUEL ANGEL ZOTTO TE SIENTO 15-27 Oct

DANCE MILAN TEATRO ALLA SCALA

In Te Siento Migeul Angel Zotto, one of today’s top tango dancers, dances out the story told in his book of the same title about his rise from a Buenos Aires barrio to the top stages of the world. The performance forms part of the Giornate della Danza organised by the Accademia Filarmonica Romana in conjunction with Teatro Olimpico. Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabiano 17, www.teatroolimpico.it.

ONEGIN

24 Oct-10 Nov

La Scala audiences will be able to see Roberto Bolle, who resigned as the principal dancer of the American Theatre Ballet in June after more than 10 years with the company. He returns to dance at La Scala alongside Marianela Nunez on 24, 26, 29 Oct and 10 Nov. Onegin by John Cranko is revived by Agneta and Victor Valcu and conducted by Felix Korobov. This same production with the same dancers and also conducted by Korobov was staged in Milan two years ago. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

BALANCHINE, KYLIÁN, BEJART 16-30 Nov

Balanchine’s Symphony in C to music by Bizet, Kylián’s Petite Mort to music by Mozart and Bejart’s Boleró to music by Bizet, performed by the La Scala ballet company and orchestra conducted by Felix Korobov and with Roberto Bolle. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

40 | October 2019 • Wanted in Rome

ROMAEUROPA FESTIVAL 17 Sept-24 Nov

As usual the Romaeuropa festival offers a feast for dance enthusiasts. October is packed with new works, many of which examine the relationship between humans, technology and robots. On 4 Oct it is the world premiere of Humane Methods by Marco Donnarumma and Margherita Pevere, which is a dialogue between humans, robots and synthetic substances on the theme of violence in its many forms. Spirit x Roma by Mara Oscar Cassiani (4 Oct) is a journey from ancient to contemporary Sardinian rituals. Sonic Arms (5-6 Oct) is a dance by the creative studio Ultravioletto of mechanical arms, light and images in which a robot and sounds are linked to explore the possibilities of relationships between humans and technology. Hiroaki Umeda (5-6 Oct) performs Median + Intentional Particle, a fusion of dance, music and video in which space and the body of the dancer break up and are reunited in performance between the real and

the virtual. Nicola Jaar and Stephanie Janaina (5 Oct) improvise during this performance of ¡miércoles! in which a short central show-specific text acts as a footnote to the performance but is also central to it. Franz Rosati (6 Oct) in Hyletics, a work about matter, energy, music, movement and distortion. Complessita, a human at the mercy of an algorithm by Enrica Beccalli and Roula Gholmieh (6 Oct). The Way you sound tonight by Arno Schuitmaker (8-9 Oct) is an Italian premiere at Teatro Vascello and examines the relationship between stage and audience, choreography and perception. Hamdi Dridi in I Listen (you) See (9, 11 Oct) is another Italian premiere is which the movement of Tunisian manual labourers is transformed into dance. In Standstill you ever moving sphere of heaven (9 Oct) two dancers dialogue in a special language in which understanding is constantly blurred and yet sometimes familiar. Sylvain Bouillet and Lucien Reynes perform Des gestes blancs, a duet for father and son (11 Oct) is about paternal identity and the charcteristics of the body at different ages. Hamdi Dridi returns with Tu Meur(s) De Terre to dance a solo about his father (11 Oct). Kim-Jomi Fischer and Marta Alstadsaeter, a dancer and a circus acrobat perform Engel (12 Oct) about physical dialogue, movement and decision-making. Most performances are at the Mattatoio but see www. romaeuropa.net for more details about times on places.

TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA DON QUIXOTE 15-20 Oct

This production is based on the version choreographed by Mikhail Baryshnikov for the American Theatre Ballet. The dancers are almost exclusively up-and-coming Italians. Evgenia Obraztsov, Rebecca Bianchi and Susanna Salvi will dance the role of Kitri and Isaac Hernandez, Davide Dato and Alessio Rezza take the part of Basilio. The conductor is David Garforth. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it.

Supplementary health care in nell’ambito the context of L’assitenza sanitaria integrativa, della employment contract or national negotiation contrattazione aziendale e nazionale, ha assunto, has played a leading recent years. has negli ultimi anni un ruolorole di assoluto rilievo It quale become an instrument for employers to manstrumento che permette alle aziende di azionare in age their salary lapolicies in an innovative way, modo innovativo leva delle politiche retributive increasing both productivity their employper incrementare, al contempo,and la produttività e la ees’ satisfaction, by reducing fiscalla riduzione pressure soddisfazione dei dipendenti, attraverso and boosting purchasing della pressione employees’ fiscale e l’incremento del power. potere The difficulties faced Infatti, by the National Health d’acquisto dei lavoratori. la cronica sofferenza Service (SSN), no longer ableche to cope with più the del Servizio Sanitario Nazionale non regge pressure of the aging ofdella the population, enl’urto dell’invecchiamento popolazione,the la crotrenchment delle of illnesses rising costs, is innicizzazione malattie and e l’aumento dei costi, si creasingly in difficulty trying to guarantee dimostra sempre più in when affanno nel garantire preexcellent medical in a reasonable stazioni sanitarie di services livello, in tempi ragionevoli,time coframe. Thisi cittadini is forcing citizens to accept long stringendo a lunghe file d’attesa, a volte waitingper times evendifor routine treatment, which anche interventi routine, che rendono spesso creates an unbearable burden the familoften bilancio familiare insostenibile. Ergo ilon ricorso alle ily finances. Thus patients are turning tointegraprivate strutture private che, senza un’assistenza structures that, without tiva, sono costretti a pagaresupplementary di tasca propria.health insurance, theyil Fasi are (Fondo forced di toAssistenza pay out of their Dal 2009 anche Sanitaown pocket. Fasi – the Medical Assistance Fund ria Integrativa per dirigenti industriali, nato nel 1977 for industrial managers – founded in 1977 by a sulla base di un accordo tra Confindustria e Federcontract between theunFederation of Industry manager), ha realizzato importante strumento di and theil managers’ hasdisince 2009 welfare, FasiOpen: unfederation, Fondo Aperto Assistenza offered an important instrument called Sanitaria Integrativa, di welfare natura non contrattuale, riFasiOpen, an open fund for supplementary volto alle aziende che vogliono offrire ai propri lavohealthed care. Thefamiliari non-contractual is aimed ratori ai loro una forma fund di protezione at companies that wish to offer their staff and della salute ai massimi livelli di servizio quanto a their families health protection highest fruibilità delle prestazioni, network of di the convenzioni level in access to medical services, a network sul territorio e tempistiche di rimborso. of health centres under convention contracts, Grazie a questa flessibilità, FasiOpen ha recenteand rapid reimbursement. Thanks toanche this flexmente iniziato ad erogare i propri servizi ad ibility, FasiOpen started alcune importanti has realtàrecently nell’ambito deglisupplying Istituti di its services alsodella to several important schools in Istruzione privati capitale, che hanno iscritto theFondo capital, which have enrolled their adminisal il personale amministrativo, i docenti ed il trative personnel, teachers and headselezionare teachers in dirigente scolastico, potendo anche the Fund, choosing medical care plans piani sanitari differentidifferent sulla base delle singole colfor different homogenous groups of employees. lettività omogenee di lavoratori. FasiOpen propone offers aun'efficiente modern and efficientforma form FasiOpen e moderna di sanitaria edhealth attraverso 6 of assistenza supplementary andintegrativa integrated assisPiani (di cui uno tance,Sanitari and through its personalizzabile), six plans (one ofassiste them oggi 38.000 soggetti tratoday lavoratori e familiari apparcan be personalised) covers some 38,000 tenenti oltre 1.200 and aziende, hannoofscelto people,ademployees their che families over FasiOpen anche in virtù naturaFasiOpen non assi1,200 companies. Theydella havesua chosen curativa, che non vincola dunquewhich il rimborso for its non-insurance format, thus delle does spese statisticamente piùmost frequenti alla not linksanitarie the reimbursement of the frequent sussistenza di una malattia o al verificarsi di illness un inmedical expenses to the presence of an fortunio del lavoratore". or to a workplace accident. Per maggiori informazioniorotoper programmare un For further information, schedule a meeting incontro di approfondimento sulle opportunitàofofferte to discuss in more detail the advantages Fasida FasiOpen è the possibile contattare la segreteria Open, contact secretariat on 06 4925 2186 amministrativa allo number 06.4925.2186 o il numero verde or on the toll-free 800 085 502. Website 800.085.502 - Sito: www.FasiOpen.it www.FasiOpen.it.

FESTIVALS ROME FILM FEST 17-27 Oct

Myss Keta at Spring Attitude.

ROMAEUROPA FESTIVAL: LANDSCAPES 17 Sept-24 Nov

The 34th edition of Rome’s multidisciplinary arts festival is a particularly international affair this year, with 377 artists from 27 countries contributing to the programme of contemporary dance, theatre, art, music and technology. Under the title Landscapes, the festival continues to expand, with 126 events taking place in 20 venues across the city, under the artistic direction of Fabrizio Grifasi. Once again the festival attracts some of the most important names from the world of contemporary arts such as Akram Khan, Hans Op de Beek and Gerard Richter. October highlights include The night writer. Giornale Musella by Jan Fabre and Lino Musella (Teatro Vascello 11-13 Oct) and A quiet evening of dance by William Forsythe (Teatro Olimpico 30-31 Oct). There are also numerous children’s events, under the umbrella REF Kids, as well as the 10th edition of the parallel futuristic section Digitalive, which examines the interaction between visual arts and technology. For programme and tickets see website, www.romaeuropa.net.

ARCHITECTURE FESTIVAL 10-18 Oct

Rome’s guild of architects launches the inaugural edition of Settimana del Progetto di Architettura nel Mondo (SPAM), highlighting the

42 | October 2019 • Wanted in Rome

issues that govern the urban, social and economic transformations of major cities, with a particular focus on Italy’s capital. Under the title Dream City, the nine-day festival based at the Casa dell’Architettura will address questions such as what Rome can do to bring architecture back to the centre of its urban agenda, and how to involve citizens on matters such as sustainability and the environment. Each day of the festival will feature lectures, discussions and workshops on a specific theme relating to Rome, involving young architects and architectural students, as well as a programme of talks aimed at schoolchildren. For details see website, www.spamroma.com. Casa dell’Architettura, Piazza Manfredo Fanti 47.

The screening of The Irishman by Martin Scorsese will be a centrepiece of the 14th edition of the Rome Film Fest which takes place at the Auditorium Parco della Musica and other venues around the capital. US filmmaker Wes Anderson will present Murray with the festival’s annual accolade and take part in a public discussion along with other international figures from the world of cinema such as Ron Howard whose film Pavarotti will screen in Rome. For details see website, www. romacinemafest.it.

ROMA JAZZ FESTIVAL 1 Nov-1 Dec

Jazz fans in Rome can look forward to the annual jazz festival which takes place under the theme No Borders at the Auditorium Parco della Musica and other venues around the city such as Casa del Jazz, Monk and Alcatraz. The 2019 edition features an impressive line-up of Italian and international acts, such as Gabrielle Coen, Moonlight Benjamin, Donny McCaslin, Cory Wong, and Archie Shepp. For programme see website, www.romajazzfestival.it.

SPRING ATTITUDE FESTIVAL 10-12 Oct

Spring Attitude, Rome’s threeday festival dedicated to electronic music and its emerging sounds returns to the capital with its ninth edition. Events will take place at the MAXXI and the nearby Ex Caserma venue on Via Guido Reni in the Flaminio area from 10-12 October. The 2019 line-up includes important Italian and international names such as Altarboy, Andrew Weatherall, Dressel Amorosi, Elena Colombi, MYSS KETA, and Zenker Brothers. For details see Spring Attitude website, www. springattitude.it.

Bill Murray is to receive a Lifetime Achievement Award at the Rome Film Fest.

Italian composer Vittorio Montalti’s new opera Un Romano a Marte, will have its world premiere at Rome’s opera theatre opera house in October.

opera MILAN TEATRO ALLA SCALA L’ELISIR D’AMORE BY DONIZETTI 10 Sept-10 Oct

The young Michele Gamba, a pupil of both Antonio Pappano and Daniel Barenboim, conducts this production which is directed by Grisha Asagaroff. Singers include Rosa Feola as Adina and Vittorio Grigolo as Nemorino (on 1, 4, 7, 10 Oct). Asagaroff’s staging was first seen at La Scala in Sept 2015. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

QUARTETT BY LUCA FRANCESCONI 5-22 Oct

This opera by the Italian composer Luca Francesconi was commissioned by La Scala in 2011. It is written for only two singers (here Alison Cook and Robin Adams) and is directed by Alex Olle of Barcelona’s La Fura dels Baus. Francesconi once said in an interview with The Guardian that his opera is a challenge to conventional ideas of opera, to western thinking and to relationships. “This piece is violent, it’s sex, it’s blasphemy, it’s the absence of mercy,” he said. The narrative is based on a book

44 | October 2019 • Wanted in Rome

of the same name by Heiner Müller, which in turn is inspired by Les Liaisons Dangereuse. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.

GIULIO CESARE BY HANDEL 18 Oct-2 Nov

This is the first of a series of three operas by Handel that will be performed at La Scala in subsequent seasons. The other two are Semele and Ariodante. The last time that Giulio Cesare was performed at La Scala was in 1957 even though it is one of the most frequently performed Baroque operas. This new production is directed by Robert Carsen with La Scala’s Baroque Ensemble conducted by Giovanni Antonini with Bejun Metha, Sara Mingardo and Philippe Jaroussky. Antonini has conducted two other Handel operas at La Scala in recent years, Il Trionfo del Tempo e del Disinganno and Tamerlano, as well as Mozart’s La Finta Giardiniera. Handel composed Giulio Cesare in 1724 for the Royal Academy of Music. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

ROME DON GIOVANNI BY MOZART 27 Sept-6 Oct

The Teatro dell’Opera di Roma presents a new production of Mozart’s opera, conducted by

Jérémie Rhorer and directed by Graham Vick. Don Giovanni completes Vick’s Mozart trilogy of Così fan tutte (2017) and Nozze di Figaro (2018). Rhorer is well known throughout Europe but this is his debut in Rome although he has conducted in several other Italian cities, as well as at the 2018 Spoleto and Ravello festivals. He has made a name for himself conducting Mozart’s operas but one of his first appearances in Italy was conducting the difficult Dialogues des Carmelites by Poulenc in Bologna last year. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Teatro Costanzi, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it.

IDOMENEO, RE DI CRETA 8-16 Nov

The conductor of this production of Mozart’s opera is Michele Mariotti and the director is Robert Carsen, with Charles Workman as Idomeneo, Joel Prieto as Idamante, Rosa Feola as Illia and Miah Persson as Elettra. This is a new production in conjunction with the Teatro Real di Madrid and the Canadian Opera Company of Toronto. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Teatro Costanzi, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it.

UN ROMANO A MARTE VITTORIO MONTALTI 22-24 Nov

This is the world premiere of an opera by Vittorio Montalti, conducted by John Axelrod and directed by Fabio Cherstich. The young composer, winner of the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma composition prize, explains that his work is dedicated to the city of Rome, and is inspired by the playwright and dramatist Ennio Flaiano. Montalti already has numerous prizes to his name and in 2016 was awarded the Una Vita nella Musica prize by La Fenice in Venice. In May this year his opera Le leggi fondamentale della stupidita umana was premiered at Maggio Musicale Fiorentino. This is the last opera in the 2018-2019 season and there are only three performances. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Teatro Costanzi, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www. operaroma.it.

Theatre SHAKESPEARE AT THE GLOBE 1-13 Oct

The 16th edition of the four-month festival devoted to Shakespeare comes to an end at the Silvano Globe Theatre in Villa Borghese. The October programme concludes with Giulio Cesare, in Italian, (1-6 Oct) and an English-language production of Romeo and Juliet by London’s Bedouin Shakespeare Company (813 Oct), directed by Chris Pickles. Largo Acqua Felix, Villa Borghese, www.globetheatreroma.com.

ALADDIN

9 Oct-1 Dec

Teatro Brancaccio stages a familyorientated musical about the kindhearted street urchin who discovers a magic lamp with the power to make his wishes come true. The Bollywoodstyle production, in Italian, is aimed at all ages, from three to 103. Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231, www.teatrobrancaccio.it.

OSCAR & WALT 25 Oct-10 nov

Donald Steven Olson’s award-winning new play Oscar & Walt is staged in a co-production between the Italy Reads program at John Cabot University

and the English Theatre of Rome. Olson’s play coincides with the 200th anniversary of the birth of American poet Walt Whitman, celebrating his enduring legacy by recreating an actual encounter that took place in 1882 between the 62-year-old Whitman and a 28-year-old Oscar Wilde. Photo ID necessary to obtain entrance to John Cabot University campus. The production will also be staged at Teatro Arciliuto near Piazza Navona. For performance times and to reserve, rometheatre@gmail.com, tel. 346 / 3612209, Whatsapp 348 / 9355626. John Cabot University, Via della Lungara 233, Trastevere.

ROME’S COMEDY CLUB 25 Oct-10 nov

Rome’s Comedy Club returns after the summer with its tenth season and 85th show. The €15 entrance fee includes aperitivo, a beer or glass of wine. Doors open at 20.00, with the show starting at 21.30. Bookings (by text only, no calls) via Whatsapp 3397514140 or email makairoma@ gmail.com. Makai Surf and Tiki bar, Via dei Magazzini Generali, 4/a/b/c.

THE PHILANDERER 5-10 Nov

Un Sogno nella Notte di Mezzestate at Teatro India.

Rome present The Philanderer by George Bernard Shaw. Directed by Sandra Provost, this Englishlanguage production is described as a “cleverly entertaining, irreverent, timeless and topical social satire in newly abridged version.” 5-8 Nov 20.30, 9-10 Nov 17.30. For bookings contact playsinrome@yahoo.com or tel. 3478248661. Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, (Piazza Mazzini), www.teatrosangenesio.it.

SWEENEY TODD

The Rome Savoyards and Plays in

5-10 Nov

Teatro Olimpico presents an Italianlanguage version of the macabre musical Sweeney Todd which follows the vengeful serial killer known as the “Demon Barber of Fleet Street”. Lorenzo Tognocchi stars in this production which features nine actors, a 12-piece orchestra and plenty of blood. Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it.

A real-life encounter between Walt Whitman (pictured) and Oscar Wilde is the subject of Oscar & Walt.

46 | October 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Sguardi sull’Italia at Casa di Goethe. Farewell to Circe by C.H. Kniep.

ACADEMIES AMERICAN ACADEMY IN ROME

BRITISH SCHOOL OF ROME

In celebration of its 125th anniversary in 2019–2020, the American Academy in Rome (AAR) will invite leading artists and thinkers to investigate the impact of the city of Rome, its artefacts, and its narratives. Exhibitions, publications and public programmes will explore the presence of history in the context of a more global, technologically linked era. It will investigate how encounters with Rome resonate throughout the arts and the humanities in the US and around the world. Curated by Peter Benson Miller, the exhibition Encounters revisits some decisive interdisciplinary encounters at AAR, exploring their long term impact on American culture across a variety of fields. In particular, the exhibition examines the interplay between visual art, music, literature, and architecture fuelled by important exchanges set against and engaging the city of Rome, its monuments and urban space. American Academy in Rome, Via Angelo Masina 5, tel. 0658461, www.aarome.org.

As part of the international programme of the Being Human Festival of the Humanities, Discoveries and Secrets, the British School at Rome organises a guided walk through the Valle Giulia area with a focus on the special collections of Rome’s foreign academies. Entitled Open Academy | Open Valley, this two-hour event begins at 14.30 and will be conducted in English and Italian. British School at Rome, Via Gramsci 61, tel. 063264939, www.bsr.ac.uk.

15 Oct-8 Dec

11 Oct

CASA DI GOETHE 6 Oct-9 Feb

Casa di Goethe presents Sguardi sull’Italia - 1780-1850, an exhibition featuring a selection of its precious drawings and engravings by 18thand 19th-century artists from England, France, Germany and Italy. The landscapes and urban views on display include sepia drawings by Christoph Heinrich Kniep and engravings by Samuel Bellin, Georg Hackert and Giovanni Battista Piranesi. A highlight of the show is

a view of Piazza del Popolo and its surroundings from a hot-air balloon, published around 1850 as a colour lithograph by Louis Jules Arnout. Casa di Goethe, Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www.casadigoethe.it.

SPANISH ACADEMY IN ROME 20 June-16 Oct

The Spanish Academy Rome presents Processi 146, an exhibition of projects and works created by the academy’s Spanish, Italian and Latin American artists during their residency in the 2018/2019 season. This year’s 23 resident artists, winners of the annual competition overseen by Spain’s foreign ministry, were tasked with creating a project dedicated to Italy and in particular to Rome, from classical to contemporary. Visitors can enjoy paintings, art history, multimedia art, photography, performance and literature. The exhibition also offers the opportunity to visit the Real Academia de España, which is normally closed to the public and which currently celebrates its 146th year in Rome. Real Academia de España in Rome, Piazza S. Pietro in Montorio 3, www. accademiaspagna.org. Wanted in Rome • October 2019 | 47

lassical lassical

The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a definitive list of all the music that is available in the city. The following is a list of the main musical There are also concerts in many of the associations in Rome but it is not a definitive churches and sometimes in the museums. list of all the music that is available in the city. There are also concerts in many of the Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della churches and sometimes in the museums. Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Auditorium Conciliazione, ViaP. de della Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Accademia Filarmonica Teatro Auditorium Parco della Romana, Musica, Viale P. de Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro starts on 15 Oct Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season concerts Parco della Musica. The startsat onAuditorium 15 Oct newAccademia season startsS. on 5Cecilia, Oct www.santacecilia.it. All

concerts Universitaria at Auditorium Parco della Musica. Istituzione dei Concerti, AulaThe newUniversità season starts on 5 Oct www.concertiiuc.it Magna, la Sapienza,

Istituzione Universitaria deiGonfalone Concerti,32a, Aula Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it www.oratoriogonfalone.com Oratorio delMethodist Gonfalone, Via delPiazza Gonfalone 32a, RomeConcerts, Church, Ponte www.oratoriogonfalone.com S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it RomeConcerts, Piazza Ponte Roma Sinfonietta, Methodist AuditoriumChurch, Ennio Morricone, S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Roma Auditorium Roma Tre Sinfonietta, Orchestra, some concertsEnnio are atMorricone, Teatro Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others at Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are are at Teatro the Aula Magna, Piazza Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, 8, Palladium, Bartolomeo Romano Universita Roma Tre, Via while Ostienze teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, others234, are at www.r30.org the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Tre,festivals Via Ostienze 234, There are oftenRoma concerts, and opera www.r30.org recitals in several churches in Rome.

often concerts, festivals and153, opera All There Saints' are Anglican Church, Via Babuino recitals in several churches in Rome. www.allsaintsrome.org All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. www.allsaintsrome.org Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7 Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com

Oratorio del Caravita, Caravita St Paul's Within the Walls,Via Viadella Nazionale and7 the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the S. Agnese Sagrestia del Borromini, corner ofin ViaAgone, Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it Piazza Navona S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Palazzo PiazzaDoria NavonaPamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum Serenades by Night Dinner throughout and Opera dinner afterwards. Viawith del Corso 305, the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum www.doriapamphilj.com and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com Jan 2019 • Wanted Rome 5048 |48 Oct 2018 • Wanted in in Rome | |October 2019 • Wanted in Rome

MUSIC MUSIC THEATR THEATRE CINEMA CINEMA VENUES VENUES

MUSIC THEATRE CINEMA DANCE OPERA

inema inema

The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wantedshow in Rome website for The following cinemas movies in English weekly updates. or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for Adriano, Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 weeklyPiazza updates. Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 0686391361 Barberini, Piazza BarberiniMastroianni 24-26, 1, tel. Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello 0686391361 tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it 068553485 Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 068553485 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 066861068 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 066861068 Odeon, Piazza Stefano 22, tel. Nuovo Sacher, LargoJacini Ascianghi 1, 0686391361 tel. 065818116

Space Moderno, Piazza della 44, tel. Odeon, Piazza Stefano JaciniRepubblica 22, tel. 0686391361 06892111 Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebec06892111 chini 3-5, tel. 06892111 Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111

ddance oopera p pop r ock r ance

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano www.teatrovascello.it 17, www.teatroolimpico.it

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it

pera

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

ock

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Concert venues ranging from major pop and Alexanderplatz, 9, tel. 0683775604 rock groups to Via jazzOstia and acoustic gigs. www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di | December 2017 www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Wanted in 55, Rome Caracalla www.angelomai.org Angelo Mai Via Atlantico delle Terme di Atlantico, VialeAltrove, dell’Oceano 271d, Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it

Atlantico, Viale Atlantico Auditorium Parcodell’Oceano della Musica, Viale 271d, P. de tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com Auditorium della Viale de Casa del Jazz, Parco Viale di PortaMusica, Ardeatina 55,P.tel. Coubertin,www.casajazz.it tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com 06704731,

RO MA

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

heatre heatre

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net www.teatrobelli.it Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobelli.it www.teatrobrancaccio.it Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatrobrancaccio.it www.teatroghione.it Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. www.teatroghione.it 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net

PalaLottomatica, Piazzale Sport 1, tel. Rock in Roma, Via Appiadello Nuova 1245, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it www.teatrosangenesio.it Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsiwww.teatrosangenesio.it stina.it Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.ilsistina.it www.teatrovascello.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Vittoria,www.teatrovascello.it Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. tel. 065898031, 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it 51 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome

ddance oopera p pop r ock r ance

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

pera

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

ock

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Concert venues ranging from major pop and Alexanderplatz, 9, tel. 0683775604 rock groups to Via jazzOstia and acoustic gigs. www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org Angelo Mai Via Atlantico delle Terme di Atlantico, VialeAltrove, dell’Oceano 271d, Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

heatre heatre

Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com Lanificio 159,ViaVia di Pietralata 159, Live Alcazar, Cardinale Merry del Valtel. 14, 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com Live Alcazar, Merry del 35, Val 14, Monk Club, Via ViaCardinale Giuseppe Mirri tel. tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com 0664850987, www.monkroma.it Monk Club, ViaPiazzale Giuseppe Mirri 35,1, tel. PalaLottomatica, dello Sport tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it PalaLottomatica, Piazzale Sport 1, tel. Rock in Roma, Via Appiadello Nuova 1245, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

High Holy Days 5780

Beth Hillel, the Progressive Jewish community in Rome, welcomes you to its 5780 High Holidays religious services, regular Shabbat services, adult study, childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s religious school and Bâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;nei mitzvah program.

Beth Hillel is a member of the World Union of Progressive Judaism.

FOR MORE INFORMATION: www.bethhillelroma.org

WANTED junior inROME Poems and art by students of St George's British International School Rome Our New Antiquity

Truthfully, there are a few other popular sports, every place has its own Fontana di Trevi, famous for its coin throwing champions Hopelessly launching their money in search for a chance at love outside a screen, but their efforts go to waste the second they take the selfie framed and filtered symmetrically with a coin in their hand and a fleet of marine creatures posing in the background.

An old celestial scandal on our antiquity, Those were the words on my twitter feed Triton reclining on his shell, pouting, Taking snap shots with the trident Only then to edit himself into the dream of a man He might be able to worship when the only sport practiced Is for our fingers and thumbs - dragging across our touch screen, And so we waste our time trying to look like we have the muscles of Poseidon.

One of the smartest ways to cut history, Abbreviating that famous oval in a 6 by 3 quadratic of the latest model. We try and stand triumphant beneath the basilica of a thousand likes, but it pixalates the sky, so we see the world around us with square eyes, Years spent to square the circle yet we can do it in a second. Beauty defined by memes, And its borders defined inside the area of a screen. Malvina Franzen, Year 9, age 14

A cry for help from mother nature

Image by Moria Kihato, aged 16, Year 11.

Was all of this our goal? To destroy our planet once and for all? Mother nature cries for help God knows if anyone can hear her yelp

52 | October 2019 â&#x20AC;˘ Wanted in Rome

All those trees once had lives We could still help them But no one even tries Our parents will sigh as their children will cry Knowing that soon, theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll let out their final breath Was this our goal? To destroy her soul? Mother nature still fights and screams Even though we cover her mouth And hide her open seams. Elsie Waddington, Year 8, age 13

Pop sonnet based on Zombie by The Cranberries Look closely ‘twas not I, ‘twas not my kin In your brain the war goes on endlessly The bombs and guns do make them full of sin In your brain they are crying breathlessly In thy distasteful mind, in thy foul head, What are you doing, have you no kindness? I am not shocked you are the walking dead Your thirst for revenge has left me breathless This house has been so lonely without you Like a blackbird without its melody My tears trickle down my cheek all so blue Tell me now love where is that chemistry? All the plants are dying from that vile curse The walking dead at the end of this verse. Jade Lambsdale, Year 9, age 14.

Image by Aryane Segurini Aref, aged 16, Year 11.

Image by Viola Martin, aged 16, Year 11.

St George’s British International School, Via Cassia km16, La Storta, tel. 063086001, www.stgeorge.school.it.

WANTED IN ROME JUNIOR: For young writers and artists Wanted in Rome is accepting creative contributions from students in all international schools in Rome. Articles on topics related to either the student’s life in Rome or their school projects can be submitted by their class teachers. The work should be no more than 1,000 words and all contributions should contain the name, age and school of the students. We also accept illustrations. Any class teachers who would like to propose a project please contact editorial@wantedinrome.com.

Wanted in Rome • October 2019 | 53

Rome’s artart capital continues to to grow with newnew murals by important Italian and Rome'sreputation reputationasasananimportant importantstreet street capital continues grow with murals by important Italian international streetstreet artistsartists appearing all the all time. the works located the suburbs, often far often from the and international appearing theMost time.ofMost of theare works are in located in the suburbs, far centre. Here is where to is find Rome’s mainthe street artstreet projects murals. from the centre. Here where to find main artand projects and murals around Rome. Esquilino Esquilino Murals Murals byby Alice Alice Pasquini, Pasquini, Gio Gio Pistone, Nicola Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Alessandrini, Diamond. Diamond. Casa Casa dell’Architettura, dell'Architettura, Piazza Fanti 47. PiazzaMafredo Manfredo Fanti 47. Marconi Marconi The The M.A.G.R. M.A.G.R. (Museo (Museo Abusivo Abusivo Gestito Gestitodai daiRom), Rom),a aproject projectby byFrench French street artistSeth Seth is located in a street artist is located in a former former soap factory Via Antonio soap factory on Viaon Antonio AvogaAvogadro, opposite dro, opposite Ostiense'sOstiense’s landmark landmark Gasometro. details see Gasometro. For For details see www.999contemporary.com. www.999contemporary.com. Museodell’Altro dell’Altroe edell’Altrove dell’Altrovedidi Museo Metropoliz Metropoliz This former former meat meat factory factory inin the the This outskirts of of Rome art outskirts Rome isis now nowa astreet street museum being home hometoto art museumasaswell well as as being some200 200squatting squatters,migrants. many of The them some migrants. The Museo dell’Altrodi e Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove dell’Altroveor diMAAM, Metropoliz, or MAAM, Metropoliz, is only open only open Saturdays, and onis Saturdays, andon features the work the work of moreincluding than 300 offeatures more than 300 artists artists including Gio Edoardo Kobra,Edoardo Gio Kobra, Pistone, Pistone, Sten&Lex Diamond.and See Sten&Lex, Pablo and Echaurren MAAM Facebook page for details. Borondo. See MAAM Facebook page Via Prenestina 913. for details. Via Prenestina 913. Ostiense

Ostiense Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Porto Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Fluviale. Porto Fluviale. Fish’n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via Fish’n’Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale. del Porto Fluviale. Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali. Magazzini Generali. Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense Via Ostiense. underpass, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense. Pigneto Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Pigneto Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71. Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.

54 | October 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Via Via Fanfulla Fanfulla da da Lodi. Lodi. 2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio. Fortebraccio. 2501 mural on Via Blu by Sten Blu Landscape Landscape by Sten & & Lex. Lex. Via Via Francesco Baracca. Francesco Baracca. Prati Prati Anna Magnaniportrait portrait by Diavù. Anna Magnani by Diavù. Nuovo Nuovo MercatoViaTrionfale, Via Mercato Trionfale, Andrea Doria. Andrea Doria. theSabotino. bear by Daniza the bear byDaniza ROA. Via ROA. Via Sabotino. Primavalle Primavalle The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via Cristoforo Numai. Cristoforo Numai. Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Theseus stabbing the Bembo. Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo. Quadraro Quadraro Tunnel murals by Mr THOMS and Gio Tunnel byMure. Mr THOMS and Pistone. murals Via Decio Gio Decio Mure. Via del NidoPistone. di Vespe Via by Lucamaleonte. Nido didel Vespe by Lucamaleonte. Via Monte Grano. del Monte Baby Hulkdel byGrano. Ron English. Via dei Baby PisoniHulk 89. by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89. Rebibbia Rebibbia Murals by Blu. Via Ciciliano and Via Murals by Blu. Via Palombini (Casal dèCiciliano Pazzi). and Via Palombini dè Pazzi). Welcome to(Casal Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Metro B station. Metro B station. S. Basilio S.SanBa Basilio features large-scale works on SanBa features large-scale works the façades of social-housing blockson in the of social-housing blocks the façades disadvantaged north-east suburb of in the disadvantaged north-east S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regenerasuburb of S.includes Basilio works near Rebibbia. tion project by Italian The project artistsregeneration Agostino Iacurci, Hitnesincludes and Blu works by Spain's ItalianLiqen. artistsViaAgostino alongside Maiolati, Iacurci, Hitnes and BluVia alongside Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Arcevia, Spain’s Via Treia.Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, Via Treia. S. Giovanni Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via S.Apulia Giovanni corner of Via Farsalo. Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.

It’s aa New NewDay Daybyby Alice Pasquini. It’s Alice Pasquini. Via Via Anton Ludovico. Anton Ludovico. S. Lorenzo Lorenzo S. AlicePasquini. Pasquini. ViaSabelli. dei Sabelli. Alice Via dei Feminicidemural mural Elisa Feminicide by Elisaby Caracciolo. Caracciolo. Via Dei Sardi.Via Dei Sardi. Borondo. Via Viadei deiVolsci Volsci159. 159. Borondo. Mural by by Agostino AgostinoIacurci Iacurci on Mural on the the Istituto Superiore di Lattanzio, Vittorio Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia. Via Aquilonia. Pietro S. Pietro UmaCabra Cabra Bordalo II. Stazione Uma byby Bordalo II. Stazione di S. Pietro, di Monte di S. Clivo Pietro, Clivo del di Gallo. Monte del Gallo. Testaccio Hunted Wolf by ROA. Via Galvani. Testaccio #KindComments AliceVia Pasquini, Via Hunted Wolf bybyROA. Galvani. Volta, Testaccio market. #KindComments by Alice Pasquini, Via Volta, Testaccio market. Tor Pignattara Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta. Tor Pignattara Etnik. Via Bartolomeo Perestrello 51. Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta. Coffee Etam Cru. Via Ludovico Etnik.Break ViabyBartolomeo Perestrello Pavoni. 51. Coﬀee Break by Etam Cru. Via Tom SawyerPavoni. by Jef Aerosol. Via Gabrio Ludovico Serbelloni. Tom Sawyer by Jef Aerosol. Via Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema Gabrio Serbelloni. Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Galeazzo Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Alessi. Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Herakut. Via Capua 14. Galeazzo Alessi. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Herakut. Via Capua 14. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Tor Marancia The Big City Life scheme features 14-m Tormurals Marancia tall by 22 Italian and internaThe Big City artists Life scheme features tional street including Mr 14-m tall by Jerico. 22 Italian and Klevra, Seth,murals Gaia and The idea international street was to transform theartists area's including blocks of Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia and Jerico. flats into an open-air art museum. Via TheMarancia. idea was to transform the area’s Tor www.bigcity.life.it. blocks of ﬂats into an open-air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. For full details see website, www.bigcity.life.it.

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth. Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

Wanted in Rome â&#x20AC;¢ October 2019 | 55

Tate: Bequeathed by Simon Sainsbury 2006, accessioned 2008 © Lucian Freud archive / Bridgeman images. Photo: © Tate, London 2019. Lucian Freud / Boy Smoking

opere della

CHIOSTRO DEL BRAMANTE 26 settembre 2019 23 febbraio 2020

orario 10.00 > 20.00 / sabato e domenica 10.00 > 21.00 (la biglietteria chiude un’ora prima)

mostra prodotta e organizzata da

in collaborazione con

con il patrocinio di

opening 10am > 8pm / saturday and sunday 10am > 9pm

(last entry one hour before)

partner tecnici

media coverage

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ag By Kate Z

TONNARELLI CACIO E PEPE

Cacio e Pepe is a classic Roman pasta tradition which, until recently, was somewhat unknown outside of Italy. However, the last couple of years have seen the international food scene embrace this simple dish which was born from humble necessity, giving it a more glamorous lease of life. The dish originated in the Lazio countryside where shepherds would pack food to carry with them on the long journeys to move their flocks. Alongside cured meat products they would also take chunks of the local aged sheep milk cheese (which did not need refrigeration), handmade flour and water pasta that could be eaten dried for carbohydrates, and black pepper to stimulate warmth. These three ingredients eventually involved into the pasta dish we know and love, and the origins underline once and for all that there is no place for butter or oil in the authentic recipe. Nowadays cacio e pepe is usually served with a long, square-cut, fresh egg pasta called tonnarelli which gives an added richness to the dish and speeds up cooking time, but normal dried spaghetti can also be used. As with most seemingly easy recipes, the trick is in the timing and testing the perfect ratio of ingredients. Sadly, overcooking and not enough mixing will often result in a sticky, unpleasant final dish rather than the silky, creamy cheese sauce with a punch of pepper which constitutes the perfect result. The recipe below utilises a little-known trick of heating the pepper in a pan of water to infuse the flavour before finishing the cooking of the pasta in the peppery liquid. Extra starchy cooking water and continuous mixing of the cheese should ensure the right consistency but, as any Roman will tell you, practice makes perfect.

Ingredients 250g fresh tonnarelli 70g pecorino romano, finely grated 190ml cold water 26 twists freshly ground black pepper

Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil. In a separate frying pan, heat 190ml of cold water and twist in the black pepper with a pepper mill. Cook on a medium heat until it just begins to simmer. Cook the tonnarelli in the saucepan of boiling water as per the packet instructions but drain one minute before the end of the suggested cooking time, keeping aside the starchy pasta water. Place the tonnarelli in the frying pan of peppery water and cook for the final minute, stirring well. Gradually add in 1-2 cups of the starchy pasta water as you go. When the pasta is al dente remove the pan from the heat and quickly add the pecorino, stirring immediately. Toss the pan for 30 seconds, building up the creamy sauce. If the mixture is too dry add a little more cooking water and just keep stirring. Serve immediately with an extra sprinkling of pecorino romano and another good crack of black pepper.

Indirizzi

So What?!?, Via Ettore Gioven

Romeow Cat Bistrot, Via Franc

La Capra Campa, Via Dignano

Grezzo, Via Urbana 30, tel. 06

Uovo à Pois, Via Pellegrino Ma

58 | October 2019 • Wanted in Rome

The best vegan and vegetarian restaurants in Rome From breakfast to dinner, from bistros to restaurants, the choice for veggies and vegans in Rome is ever wider. You can enjoy delicious dishes that don’t skimp on flavour or cause any harm to animals. SO WHAT?!? The dishes at this totally vegan restaurant in Pigneto recreate traditional recipes (there being a particular focus on zero km and organic products). So it’s not just spoonfuls of veloutés and salads here, you can enjoy starters such as gluten-free fettuccine with ragu and pesto gnocchi with sage and cashews (€8.50), to mains such as zuccotto made with lentils in the Mediterranean style (€8.50) and desserts such as tofu cake with blueberries and ginger (€5). ROMEOW CAT BISTRO The cooking at this bistro that’s seemingly half run by cats (the eatery’s permanent residents), is entirely vegan, taking inspiration from Indian and Mexican cuisine, while also serving a menu of raw food. You can enjoy muffins, brownies and raw cakes for breakfast, for lunch and dinner there’s troccolo (thick spaghetti) with wild asparagus, a light turmeric cream and asparagus chips. LA CAPRA CAMPA One of Rome’s best known vegan bistros offers only 0 km vegetables, that come directly from the Lazio countryside: the flours, legumes and grains are all organic, and the dry fruit is fair trade. And if that isn’t enough, the gluten-free and ‘vegan cheeses’ are made in-house.

UNIVERSO VEGANO If you’re craving fast food and tasty paninis, look no further than Universo Vegano, the cruelty-free franchise that uses no products that are derived from animals and serves only home-made Italian food, using no conservatives or colourants. You can try the vegetarian pizza, the Bolognese vegan lasagne, the paella or the tofu and spinach cannelloni. IL MARGUTTA Known as RistorArte, is famous in Rome for being an excellent vegetarian restaurant where you enjoy, other than gourmet food, art exhibitions, theatre shows, book launches, meet-ups and debates. At Il Margutta, from brunch until dinner time, the dishes are made with the highest quality products. There’s a tasting menu (and even a vegan menu available) or you can eat from the à la carte menu. ORTO A vegetarian restaurant in Prati where the food is affordable and the portions are huge, packed with lots of organic vegetables and delicious local olive oil. For dinner there’s an à la carte menu and at lunch time there’s an enormous buffet. There are also two specials each week for when you feel like trying something a little different.

GREZZO If you’ve got a sweet tooth and don’t want to give up the cheese cake, tiramisù and other delicious desserts, there’s Grezzo, the raw patisserie and chocolate shop. The tasty raw chocolate is manipulated at low temperatures to keep all the nutritional qualities of the cocoa. All the desserts are completely vegan and gluten free.

LE BISTROT A vegan and vegetarian restaurant with a retro vibe, serving traditional recipes with a focus on Mediterranean flavours. You can try the onion or vegetable soup (€12), black spaghetti with taggiasca olives (€12) and red turnip and truffle risotto (€12). Don’t miss the desserts – there are traditional sweet treats or vegan and gluten free versions.

UOVO À POIS If you feel like a sweet treat made with whole-wheat flour and natural, unrefined sugar (the only exception being the icing sugar and food colourings used in the cake decoration), and free from milk and hydrogenated fat, this organic, gourmet patisserie is the place for you. There are also whole cakes available to order and pastries made with alternative sugars.

FIORE CRUDO E VAPORE A restaurant where the cuisine combines local and traditional recipes with raw cooking. As a result vegetarians, vegans and carnivores alike feast beside one another. The restaurant tries to satisfy every taste and dietary requirement, with organic produce and a huge menu. You can try gourmet dishes, raw food recipes, salads and a selection of raw and traditional desserts.

www.puntarellarossa.it

nale 58, tel. 3298265250.

Universo Vegano, Piazza del Paradiso 18, tel. 3481004757.

cesco Negri 15, tel. 0657289203.

Il Margutta RistorArte, Via Margutta 118, tel. 0632650577.

o D’Istria 51/a, tel. 327456 8592.

Orto, Via Giuseppe Gioacchino Belli 142, tel. 0645678050.

6483443.

Le Bistrot, Via delle Sette Chiese 160, tel. 065128991.

atteaucci 62, tel. 3429448443.

Fiore Crudo e Vapore, Via Boncompagni 31/33, tel. 0642020400. Wanted in Rome • October 2019 | 59

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Associations American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com Daughters of the American Revolution Pax Romana Chapter NSDAR paxromana@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com

International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490, www.iwcofrome.it Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 3338466820 Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Woman’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com

Books The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified. Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 Anglo American Bookshop Via delle Vite 102, tel. 066795222 Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it

Religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881 Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish)

62 | October 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484 Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com Otherwise Via del Governo Vecchio, tel. 066879825, www.otherwisebookshop.com St Patrick’s English-Language Lending Library Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 0688818727, Sun 10.00-12.30, Tues 10.00-14.00, Wed 15.00-18.00, Thurs 11.00-15.30 Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 3332284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday Service 10.30

Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei SS. Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Roma Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic) Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00

Support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.info Archè (HIV+children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/06582045580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 3381675680

Transport • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157066645-064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it

St Isidore College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic), Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827, www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri” Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022

Chiamaroma 24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Emergency numbers • • • • • • •

Ambulance tel. 118 Carabinieri tel. 112 Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 Fire brigade tel. 115 Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 Police tel. 113 Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355 Wanted in Rome • October 2019 | 63

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