Wanted in Rome - September 2019 by Wanted in Rome

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THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME

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ART AND CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT GALLERIES MUSEUMS NEWS

TEATRO COSTANZI

SEPTEMBER 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15

work in progress BY

ALEXANDER CALDER

A TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA PRODUCTION

waiting for the sibyl

DESIGN AND DIRECTION BY

WILLIAM KENTRIDGE

TEATRO COSTANZI

SEPTEMBER 27, 28, 29, OCTOBER 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6

WOLFGANG AMADEUS MOZART

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CONDUCTOR JÉRÉMIE RHORER DIRECTOR GRAHAM VICK TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA ORCHESTRA AND CHORUS NEW PRODUCTION

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Ettore Festa, HaunagDesign - Illustrations by Gianluigi Toccafondo

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A world class education in the heart of Rome St. Stephenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s International Day & Boarding School

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CONT

EDITORIALS

MISCELLANY

4. ROME'S BOTANIC

16. TO DO CALENDAR 18. BEACHES near ROME 20. outdoor POOLS in ROME 22. MUSEUMS 26. ART GALLERIES 48. CULTURAL VENUES 52. Wanted in Rome junior 54. STREET ART guide 57. RECIPE 58. PUNTARELLA ROSSA 62. USEFUL NUMBERS

MARTIN BENNETT

8. SABINA TODAY PHILIP BISS

12. INTERVIEW WITH PRINCIPAL OF ST GEORGE'S BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, ROME MARCO VENTURINI

ONLINE CLASSIFIEDS As of 1 January 2019 classified advertisements will no longer appear in the magazine but may be published around the clock on our website www.wantedinrome.com. DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: Marco Venturini EDITRICE: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9 PROGETTO GRAFICO E IMPAGINAZIONE: Dali Studio Srl STAMPA: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c. DIFFUSIONE: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425. Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131del 6/3/1985. Finito di stampare il 28/08/2019

THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME

Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 11, Numero 8 SEPTEMBER 2019 | € 2,00

GARDENS

WHAT'S ON

31. EXHIBITIONS 38. Classical 40. art news 42. DANCE 44. festivals 46. OPERA 47. Theatre 47. academies

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Cover by Alice Pasquini Emer, 2018 www.alicepasquini.com

ENTS 4

ROME'S BOTANIC GARDENS

EXHIBITIONS

SABINA TODAY

42 DANCE

Gardens

ROME'S BOTANIC GARDENS The Orto Botanico is one of Rome’s semi-forgotten wonders Martin Bennett

or images of paradise, visitors flock to the Sistine Chapel and Vatican Museums. Yet the Orto Botanico, its azure flecked with parakeets – a recent invasive species – provides an earthly alternative for which you needn’t stand in line. From Piazza Trilussa in Trastevere turn right into Via della Lungara and then left into Via Corsini where a magnificent magnoglia grandiflora vies for height with the Galleria Nazionale di Arte Antica (also known as Galleria Corsini). Where the cobblestones stop is the ticket-office. Traffic suddenly gives way to birdsong while along the Orto’s farmost rim, Garibaldi (or his statue) can be seen riding the tree-line. In other words, “rus in urbe”, a phrase coined by Martial in an epigram in which the poet, tired of the din around his garret in the Suburra, envies his friend Sparsus’s country-style manor here upon the Gianicolo and its conduciveness to a good night’s sleep. Follow well-marked gravel pathways and Rome meets the world. Antique and headless busts rub shoulders with cycads from South Africa’s Eastern Cape and Mexican cacti. (Labels – VU, One of the many greenhouses at Rome's Botanic Gardens.

4 | September 2019 • Wanted in Rome

vulnerable; EN, endangered; LC, least concern – show the garden’s protective as well as aesthetic function.) Here Encephalartos lehmanni, “threatened by goats, porcupines and poachers in its native habitat”, grow in peace. Overhead a droopy Atlantic cedar from Morocco resembles an evergreen weeping willow. Nearby there’s a stand of bottle-trunked Liquidambars from Turkey and Rhodes, their gum said to induce prophetic dreams. Past the Orangery presides a more local Quercus suber or cork-oak. Pliny the Elder venerated the species as being older than Rome itself. Indeed, Gianicolo’s oak-forest predates Neolithic times; 300 years old, this 25-m high tree is something of a stripling. The carnivorous plants deployed nearby are, thank goodness, comparatively miniscule, capturing and eating, as they do, insects, frogs, lizards, even rodents. (Not, though, the woolly – and wily – fruit bat: in exchange for a place to roost, it offers Borneo’s pitcher plant Nepenthes Hemsleyiana not its flesh but its faeces, both parties benefitting from an ingenious if unlikely form of rent.)

Gardens

The Japanese Gardens at the Orto Botanico.

The Orto’s Dionaea species are mostly North American, including the Venus flytrap, which Darwin designated the world’s most spectacular plant. Confined to habitats short of nutritious nitrates, they use enzymes to feast on meat, thus compensating for what other plants derive from the soil. Complementing them are various Sarraceniae, whose flute-like tubes are coloured and perfumed like vegetal lingerie to tempt the hapless victim, a green operculum or lid preventing escape. From small to tall, in the aptly-named “Monumental Greenhouse” behind, Madagascan cacti dangle into the iron-ribbed dome. Back on the path outside, South Africa’s Strelitziaceae with its orange and purple crested flowers suggests some long-beaked bird. More exotics await in the Corsini cactus house. Temperature increasing a dozen degrees, specimens prickle and flower brilliant mauve, red or yellow. Namibia, Kenya, Zanzibar, Transvaal and Mexico (which boasts 900 species of cacti) all are represented. A Bolivian succulent resembles a long bristling snake. Past the water-garden, at close quarters one can observe the Wollemia nobilis or “dinosaur

tree”. Until 1994 it was deemed extinct; then Australian explorer David Noble found some hidden away in a ravine in Australia’s Wollemi national park; hence the name. A mindbending statistic traces fossils of the species to 90 million years ago. (The Orto affords Rome’s best opportunity for extreme time-travelling.) Another once seemingly defunct tree on show is China’s Metasequioa glyptostroboides: 5,000 years from “extinction” date, lo and behold, specimens were found still growing strong beside the Yangtze. In 1944 a seed was brought to Italy for planting. Every leaf tells a story, to graft a phrase. Or, in Wollemia’s case, every needle. And so, matching the culinary Garden of the Senses on the Orto’s opposite side, one reaches the Garden of Simples. Their purposes listed from Analectic (for the nervous system) to Vulnerary (for healing wounds), the plants were used by mediaeval monks to prepare medicine. Tucked behind is the evocatively muggy Tropical Greenhouse, humidity a fixed 80 per cent. Weekdays find often no visitor in sight. Easy then to imagine oneself a latterday Livingstone and Stanley as two stewy Wanted in Rome • September 2019 | 5

Gardens

The cherry blossoms draw crowds to the Orto Botanico each spring.

green ponds double as mini-Lake Victoria and Tanganyika. From the water rises a spikily spectral trunk to enhance the effect. Again in the temperate outdoors, the path climbs into the Mediterranean wood, more native corkoaks, ilex and laurels replicating the Gianicolo of Neanderthal times and before. At the top nature meets art in Ferdinando Fuga’s 18th century “Stairway of the Eleven Spouts” – “Theatre of Greenery” is the official pamphlet’s phrase. Flanked by Rome’s most majestic plane trees, the spot features in Paolo Sorrentino’s upcoming season of The New Pope, complete with climbing red-robed cardinals, Sorrentino's Grande Bellezza recurring when least expected. Less idyllically, and a link with Garibaldi’s statue above, it was also an 1849 battle-site as French soldiery laid into the heroes of Rome’s short-lived Republic (see the old print at the stairway’s lower entrance). Walking can bring on tiredness, especially in a garden that’s as big as many a district. 100 Things to Do in Rome At Least Once in Life is Ilaria Betlemme’s curiously-titled guidebook, with suggestions such as “Frighten yourself before Casa Zuccheri’s entrance”. Or “Trace the internal organs of Popes in the Santi Vincenzo e Anastasio church”. A 101st thing to do – if that’s not too energetic a word – might be to take a pisolino or nap in the shade of any of the Orto’s 5,000 trees. The Handkerchief Tree, Davidia involucrata, nicknamed for its strangely shaped foliage; the Parrot Tree, Erythina crista-galli; the fore-mentioned Liquidambar for prophetic dreams: each could serve. Or the Montezuma cypress planted in 2016 in a joint venture by the Mexican and Italian governments. Promising greater things to come is a photo of the Mexican Ahuehuele or water-tree, with a trunk that after two millennia is 40 metres 6 | September 2019 • Wanted in Rome

wide, taking 30 people’s outstretched arms to embrace it. Another Mexican gift, some striplings are growing in the Orto’s nursery. Worth a night in a fancy hotel, you might prefer your shuteye beneath one of the Phoenix palms in whose fronds the mythical bird was said to nest. You could also choose the fan-leafed gingko tree. Another living fossil, its forebears are as old as the dinosaurs, making Orto Botanico, at least in part, a real-life Jurassic Park. (For a siesta, however, the neighbouring Nannorrhops from Pakistan may be ruled out; its weird trunk, part-python part-gigantic-spider, is entirely horizontal.) Refreshed, one can stroll past the fern collection to savour the Orto’s array of 150 Italian vines, from Sicily’s Nero d’Avola to Alto Adige’s Müller Thurgau. Luca Maroni, wine-maker and parttime curator, explains how they were only planted in 2016, so they need a couple more years to mature. Then it’s up past the bamboo section, with 70 of Europe’s largest species. Turn right for the Rock Garden, inherited from the convent of S. Pietro in Montorio beyond the ridge. Amidst the rocks and gently plashing water of next door’s Japanese garden, another haiku springs to mind: “Beneath the branches/ of the cherry trees/ strangers do not exist” – Issa, 1763-1827. The pavilion offers views not of Mount Fuji but of Rome, a side-panel to guide the gaze. Bookmarking one end of the panorama is the dome of S. Carlo al Corso, while at the other end rears Vittorio Emanuele’s horse. Exactly in the centre is St Peter’s and the Vatican, prompting the pleasant question, which is the greater wonder? Here or there? Nature or art? Leaving aside Raphael’s epitaph, “Nature feared to be outdone while he lived, and when he died feared she herself would die,” the winning edge surely rests with nature, whether for variety or aesthetics. Art, architecture or sculpture, no matter how perfect, remain constant whereas nature is in a continuous and often spectacular state of change. Return in autumn: that gingko will blaze orient gold. In two years Luca Maroni’s vines will have reached full height; in two centuries the Wollemia nobilis will be on its way to a sky-touching 40 metres.

Wanted in Rome â&#x20AC;¢ September 2019 | 7

Opera Trips

SABINA TODAY The villages in the Sabina area north of Rome are rich in history and culture Philip Biss St Francis of Assisi lived for many years near the mediaeval village of Greccio.

here is Sabina and what is it best known for? For many people who live in Rome it is an area they have heard of but never visited. It starts about 30 km northeast of the city and runs on up the eastern bank of the Tiber for about another 50 km, while extending eastwards from the riverbank into the Apennines of central Italy. It is little known because the ancient salt road, the Via Salaria, although it enters the Sabina, turns away northeast at Passo Corese, heading towards Rieti. It then runs on to the Adriatic, skirting the Sabine mountains and missing the virtually unchanged mediaeval hilltop villages of the area. However, the reason why most Romans know its name is its prestigious olive oil and also because of the legend of the “Rape of the Sabine women” so vividly expressed in 8 | September 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Poussin’s 17th-century painting, today hanging in the Louvre in Paris. The Sabine mountains, rising to 1,282 metres at Monte Tancia, divide the undulating olive groves of lower Sabina from the higher level Rieti plain and the lakes and river valleys of upper Sabina. Long ago, these upland streams deposited so much limestone that they became blocked and created lakes and a swamp north of Rieti. In 271 BC, the Romans drained the area by cutting a channel to the edge of the escarpment above Terni. Today the spectacular Marmore waterfall is recognised as the highest man-made waterfall in Europe. It drains the Velino River from the Rieti plain, which is also known as the Holy Valley because it contains four Franciscan monasteries. Check the website, www. lecascatedellemarmore.com, to find out when the spectacular openings of the waterfall take place.

Opera Trips St Francis came from Assisi, but he visited and lived for many years near the mediaeval village of Greccio, high above the Rieti plain. Shortly after his death, his followers built a monastery on the cliffs where he slept and where, in 1223, he organised the first ever living nativity play, re-enacting the birth of Jesus at Bethlehem (now twinned with Greccio). Every year during the Christmas period, the play is re-enacted on various evenings by monks and villagers using real cattle and a donkey. The monastery itself has a collection of model nativity scenes, ranging from an igloo to a tent in the Sahara. Lower Sabina boasts an important abbey at Farfa, which is well worth a visit. It dates back to the fifth century and was one of the most important abbeys in Europe in its day. Damaged by fire during the Saracen invasions of the mid-ninth century, it was soon rebuilt. Because of the threat of Saracen invasions, Pope John III issued a papal bull in 966, ordering the fortification of all the property occupied by the nobility in Sabina. This period of castellamento saw walls, gateways, defensive towers and castles built all over Sabina. This, then, is what we see today: mediaeval hilltop villages dominated by castles and encircled by tall walls and defensive towers dating back to the late 10th and early 11th century, often perched on rocky outcrops or hilltops. All these villages have picturesque festivals throughout the year, advertised on their pro loco websites. Roccantica clings to the flank of the Sabine mountains, a dozen kilometres north of the town of Poggio Mirteto. Dominated by its castle, which became a monastery in the 13th century, the village looks out over olive groves and away to the Tiber, with the rugged outline of Monte Soratte on the horizon. Events worth attending

start on the Sunday following the 17 January celebration of St Anthony, on whose feast day by tradition animals are blessed. The piazza is filled with the horses and mules that carry logs down from the mountains above, a flock of sheep, an occasional bull, horses, dogs, cats and caged birds. The event is combined with the Feast of the Poor, so wine and sweets are handed out to one and all while the priest blesses the animals. February sees a religious procession honouring St Valentine, while in mid March, on the Sunday after the feast of St Joseph the air is filled with a strange smell at the Sagra del Frittello as long queues form to buy packets of fried cauliflower. Revellers dance in the square and village troubadours in mediaeval costume put on a flag-waving display. In mid August, a fourday mediaeval feast takes place, and the small squares come alive with villagers in costume, food served at tables, dancing, troubadour performances, plays and a nighttime reenactment of the famous 1059 assault on the tower where the future pope, Nicolas II, was said to have been besieged. The village was attacked by troops sent by the Roman nobility, and in particular the Crescenzi family, who wanted Giovanni the bishop of Velletri as pope. In September another religious procession is held in honour of the Madonna. Roccantica is a perfect place from which to set off on a walk, while riding lessons and pony trekking are available nearby. Le Cucine del Borgo restaurant offers an inviting menu while the Del Compare trattoria provides Sardinian specialities. La Tana del Branco bar has a panoramic terrace where they can serve food if told in advance. A little to the south, above Poggio Catino on the winding mountain road to the Rieti plain,

The hilltop town of Rieti sits on the southern edge of the Rieti valley at the base of the Sabine mountains.

Wanted in Rome â&#x20AC;˘ September 2019 | 9

Art

The Tevere-Farfa nature reserve is an oasis for wildlife and walkers.

lies the Tancia Hostel House. Once a hostel for shepherds during the transhumance, it has been taken over by a group of enthusiastic young locals who organise trekking, bike tours, horse riding and much more. During the year, Poggio Mirteto has two carnivals in April, one of which is called the “Liberata”, contentiously celebrating the fall of the Papal States in 1861. In May, Selci offers an evening of “Wine under the Stars”, while Configni – located just off the SP313 road from Passo Corese to Terni near the northern Lazio border – holds a wild mushroom and asparagus festival. Bocchignano, situated between Poggio Mirteto and Farfa Abbey, holds a jazz festival at the end of May or early June, while live music and al fresco food is also available at Halloween in neighbouring Poggio Catino, where legend has it that witches have been known to appear and dance in the square. Activities in Sabina include skiing in the winter at Monte Terminillo, about 21 kms from Rieti. Hikers can also follow the many marked footpaths accessible from the villages lying on both sides of the Sabine mountains. Other fascinating sites to visit are the two hermitages behind Roccantica and those at Cottanello and Vacone, while everyone with a taste for “the nectar of the gods” can visit the producers of the famous olive oil under the guidance of an international olive oil judge. For those who prefer two wheels, bicycles can be hired in Poggio Mirteto, from where you can follow the level contours of the SP48 northwards passing below Poggio Catino and Roccantica to Casperia and beyond. Swimming is available at the riverside pools below the abbey at Farfa or at the Almalama pool near Casperia, where you can also play tennis. Canoes are available for 10 | September 2019 • Wanted in Rome

hire in the Tevere-Farfa nature reserve, where walkers often see foxes, wild boar and many species of bird. The reserve’s visitor centre is on the western bank of the Tevere and is approached from Nazzano. Riding lessons and pony trekking are also available outside Roccantica and Casperia. Sunday markets take place at Osteria Nuova and Farfa on the first Sunday of the month, at Gavignano the third and Borgo Nuovo on the fourth. A small arts and crafts market takes place at Casperia every second Sunday of the month. As of this autumn, the trains to Poggio Mirteto station from Fiumicino airport via Rome are scheduled to increase their frequency to every 15 minutes. They are met by Troiani buses going up to Poggio Mirteto (on market-day Fridays) and Cotral to the various surrounding villages. Sabina remains a beautiful and interesting destination today just as it did when the Romans invaded and carried off the local beauties all those centuries ago.

Useful websites Marmore Waterfall www.lecascatedellemarmore.com Greccio www.prolocogreccio.it Fara abbey concerts www.abbaziadifarfa.it Roccantica www.roccantica.org Olive oil tours www.johnnymadge.com Walks & youth adventure activities www.cognolorefuge.com Other walks www.ostellomaglianosabina.it and on Facebook Stefano Aperio Bella Horseriding S. Lorenzo Agriturismo Pony trekking stefanotigre1988@libero.it Swimming / tennis almalama@libero.it Bicycle hire www.elerent.com Tancia Hostel House www.facebook.com/tanciahostelhouse/

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Education Opera

INTERVIEW WITH PRINCIPAL OF ST GEORGE’S BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, ROME New principal David Tongue joined St George’s from Brighton College Bangkok in January 2019, following leadership posts in the UAE, the Falkland Islands and Spain Marco Venturini What would you consider to be the main difference between your current and previous post, from a city and school point of view? On the surface, they couldn’t be more different. My previous post saw me setting up overseas campuses from scratch in Asia for a leading

UK private school, whereas St George’s has a long and distinguished history in its own right. Living in Asia, one is confronted daily by expansion and modernity, whereas Rome is a city infused at all times with its rich history. However, there are more similarities than

There are currently 84 different nationalities represented among the student body at St George's British International School.

12 | September 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Education you would think - both schools consistently deliver academic excellence, region-leading examination results and entry routes into the world’s leading universities. Both schools are focused on providing the widest possible range of opportunities for every individual child and on delivering the very best British education in a caring, kind and supportive manner. How many nationalities are there among the St George’s students? Astonishingly, there are currently 84 different nationalities represented on our pupil body. This makes us one of the most international communities of any British International School in Europe and unique in Rome. Our proud internationalism and close links with the city’s diplomatic community, international businesses and the United Nations, means that our pupils are exceptionally welcoming of new arrivals and quickly help them to settle into the city. Our pupils have so many different languages that English becomes the great ‘uniter’ of our pupils - it is the language of all interactions not just in the classroom, but the sports field, the corridor and the playground. As almost all of our pupils come to us from other Englishmedium international schools around the world, it ensures a familiar experience for both them and their parents and provides great support at a time of transition for the whole family. Being a British international school, how do you think Brexit will impact on the life of students, teachers and the school’s goals? Although it is impossible to link directly with Brexit, we are currently experiencing a huge surge in demand and some mobile British families are citing Brexit as a factor behind their decision to relocate at this point or in the near future. As a school, we have been planning carefully for all eventualities to ensure that any challenges that may arise - whatever the outcome of negotiations - do not have a negative impact on pupils, staff and parents. In 2017, you opened a further Junior School campus, moving from the former Nomentana site to a new location near to the Vatican. Are you trying to reach a different target audience located in the city centre? Our new City Centre Junior School shares the

David Tongue, Principal of St George's British International School, Rome.

same vision and aims as our La Storta site and the pupil profile is remarkably consistent with our more established campus. This is true of not just its internationalism but also of its passion for a high quality and premium British International education. As almost all pupils from the City Centre Junior School progress onto our Senior School in La Storta we are very much one school across two sites. Having two sites for families with the youngest children helps those living in disparate parts of the city and helps us as a school to reduce our waiting lists and meet some of our surplus demand. Do you have further plans for expanding St George’s? We are passionate about helping all our pupils to become highly successful individuals and to do that we need to continue to ensure that all of the professionals working at the school know all of our pupils really well. They need to know what their unique strengths are and help them to maximise these, and they need to know what their unique challenges are to help them to overcome them. Our founding vision - which remains true today, more Wanted in Rome • September 2019 | 13

Education Opera

Patricia The campus of St George's British International School at La Storta.

than 60 years later - was to ensure that we could provide a world-class education for the expatriate population of Rome. As a British International School, we have a responsibility to meet the needs of international families who are relocating to Rome and it is frustrating if long waiting lists in some year groups prevent us from doing this. With our current capacity we are close to being the perfect size from a purely educational perspective, so balancing these two priorities will be a key focus moving forward. How do you assess Rome’s private and international school market? The international schools market in Rome is very close knit and supportive, with each of the established schools having their own niche whether parents are looking for an international or bilingual education primarily for Italian pupils or international families are looking for schooling that will enable them to transfer to other parts of the world if their employers decide to relocate them. There is a choice of schools for parents looking at a variety of curriculum models and price points. One area I am keen to develop further across the international schools

here is in providing children with greater v opportunities to participate and compete in av wider range of inter-school activities, sports fixtures, performing arts events and debates. This will help us as a school to be involved in more local events as well as those our pupils currently enjoy regionally and internationally. What is the future of the private schooling industry, in Italy and abroad? This is a very interesting time for international and private education. The growth of schools worldwide has been exponential and families are becoming increasingly aware that leading international schools such as ours are, in many cases now, outperforming even some of the most successful private schools in the UK. One potentially worrying trend is the increasing commercialisation of private education with profit being taken out of schools when it could and should be reinvested to improve the education of the children. Against this backdrop, parents need to be acutely aware of the benefits of not-for-profit schools such as St George’s, where any money paid by parents in fees goes directly to further developing the school.

The oldest British international school in Rome, St George’s offers an education based on the UKnational curriculum, enhanced to meet the needs of pupils in the context of its location in central Europe. This education culminates with pupils completing GCSE / IGCSE examinations before progressing into Sixth Form when the International Baccalaureate Diploma Programme (IBDP) is undertaken by all students. For full details see the school’s website, www.stgeorge.school.it. 14 | September 2019 • Wanted in Rome

odoroki.it

ROMA • FIRENZE • MILANO • BRESCIA SERRAVALLE (AL) • MONTEBELLO

to do

Mon Tue Wed Thu 2

Catch one last open-air movie with Isola del Cinema on Tiber Island.

See Bulgari jewels from the Dolce Vita era at Castel S. Angelo.

Admire the masterpieces of Renaissance artist Luca Signorelli at the Capitoline Museums.

ART MUSIC FOOD NATURE CINEMA FAMILY THEATRE

Explore the city on a Celebrate the legacy of scooter from Cooltra. Queen frontman Freddie Discount with WiR card. Mercury at Hard Rock CafĂ¨ on Via Veneto.

Enjoy the final night Book a night in Sperlonga of jazz at Village and enjoy two beach days Celimontana before the and an evening in the old town, south of Rome. festival ends.

Catch an Italian version of Riccardo III at Rome's replica of Shakespeare's Globe Theatre.

If you fancy a cultural trip out of town, travel to the five-sided Palazzo Farnese in Caprarola.

Explore the newlyopened section of tunnels at the Baths of Caracalla.

Romaeuropa Festival opens with Furia by Brazilian choreographer Lia Rodrigues.

Choose from a multitude Tracey Emin returns with of special cultural events in her sixth exhibition at Rome to mark the annual Rome's Lorcan O'Neill European Heritage Days. Gallery.

If you fancy a cocktail with a birds-eye-view of the Colosseum, head to The Court.

30 Take a day trip to Bracciano and visit one of Italy's few Renaissance castles open to the public.

19 Update your look at globally renowned hairdresser TONI&GUY. 15 per cent off with WiR card.

Be among the first to see the Bacon and Freud show at Chiostro del Bramante.

Photo by Christopher Czermak on Unsplash

September Fri Sat Sun 2019 1

If you are a porchetta fan make your way to the Castelli Romani town of Ariccia for the annual Sagra della Porchetta.

Take in some live music in easy-going surroundings in the Giardino at Monk Club.

TheGiornalisti stage an outdoor concert in the Circus Maximus.

Pamper yourself with a relaxing spa treatment at QC Terme near Fiumicino.

Marvel as Calder collaborates with Kentridge at Teatro dellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Opera di Roma. 10% discount with WiR card.

Have a coffee outdoors at Tram Depot, an old tram converted into a bar, in Testaccio.

Enjoy a drink with friends as the sun sets over the sea at Singita Miracle Beach at Fregene.

Take a day trip to the relaxing hot springs near the Tuscan town of Saturnia.

Sample the best of Roman haute cuisine or take part in a masterclass with a top chef at Taste of Roma.

20 27

For lots of laughs make your way to Rome's Comedy Club in the Ostiense area.

Check out the links between science and art with ArteScienza at the Auditorium Parco della Musica.

Visit the beach-side S. Severa Castle under the stars.

29 Grab a bargain at the chaotic Porta Portese weekly market but watch out for pickpockets!

Beaches TOP 10

BE ACHES N E A R RO M E For all you beach-lovers here is a selection of resorts within easy reach of Rome. Each one, ordered from north to south, offers either stabilimenti (private beaches with entrance fees and changing facilities and refreshments) or spiaggia libera (free beach with the option to rent a lounge chair and/or umbrella), and all have children’s facilities. We have indicated how to get there by public transport, as all these towns suffer from heavy traffic during the summer.

Sabaudia S. MARINELLA The northern-most beach on our list offers a small strip of white sandy beach with the choice of setting up camp at either the stabilimenti or spiaggia libera. There are two trains per hour leaving from Termini station for S. Marinella station and the journey takes about one hour. Popular with wind-surfers.

S. SEVERA Located about 50 km north of Rome and less than 10 km south of S. Marinella. Take one of the regular Civitavecchia trains from Rome and the beach is a ten-minute walk from the station. There are numerous stabilimenti, restaurants and spiaggia libera and it is also known for the Italia Surf Expo which takes place every July.

FREGENE A former chic hotspot of the 1960s and 1970s, Fregene boasts long stretches of sand with both stabilimenti and spiaggia libera. Along the coast there is also a wide selection of family-oriented restaurants and less expensive tavole calde. Rome’s club scene tends to flock to Fregene and nearby Ostia (see below) in the summer months. Although Fregene isn’t the easiest place to reach by public transport, Cotral buses depart from Rome’s Valle Aurelia metro stop (line A) and the journey takes about one hour.

OSTIA/CANCELLI Ostia and the Cancelli (gates) are along the coast nearest Rome. Ostia is loaded with often pricey and trendy stabilimenti, while the Cancelli offer free beaches equipped with restaurants and bathrooms. Public transport takes less than an hour and you can use the same metro/bus tickets for public transport in Rome. Take the 070 express bus from EUR, or the Roma-Lido train from Porta S. Paolo beside the Piramide metro station (line B). To reach the Cancelli get off at the last stop and take the 07 MARE bus until you reach the gates numbered 1, 2, 3 etc.

ANZIO/NETTUNO These beaches are only ten minutes apart and are easily reached from Rome. One train per hour leaves from Termini station, stopping first at Anzio and then at Nettuno. The journey takes 60-70 minutes and the beaches are about a 10-minute walk from the respective train stations.

18 | September 2019 • Wanted in Rome

S. Marinella Anzio has the Blue Flag status given to beaches that meet the international quality standards for cleanliness both on the beach and in the water.

SABAUDIA Famous for its beauty and spaciousness, this stretch of beach is another Blue Flag area. Although predominantly spiaggia libera, there are a few stabilimenti to choose from. Cotral buses run from Rome’s Laurentina metro stop (line B) to Piazza Oberdan in Sabaudia. From here take the shuttle bus which runs up and down the local coastline. Sabaudia is also known for its Mussolini-era architecture.

S. FELICE CIRCEO Nearly 100 km south of Rome are the Blue Flag beaches and crystal clear waters of Circeo. Stabilimenti abound but look for the spiaggia libera nearest the port: it definitely merits the mini-trek. Cotral buses leave for Circeo from the Laurentina metro station in Rome. Get off at the last stop and walk for ten minutes until you reach the beach.

TERRACINA Located just 10 km south of Circeo. From Termini station take the hourly regional train for Naples and get off at Monte S. Biagio. From there, take the bus for about 20 minutes until you reach the beach. Terracina has as many spiagge libere as stabilimenti and both are well-kept and clean, making it a popular destination for families.

SPERLONGA The stabilimenti dominate this gorgeous getaway with picturesque views and Blue Flag status, leaving only narrow strips for the spiaggia libera. Take the regional train headed to Naples from Termini station and get off at Fondi-Sperlonga. Once there, take the Piazzoli bus for 20 minutes to Sperlonga, alternatively take a private taxi but be warned they are far more expensive than the €1.50 bus ticket.

GAETA This Blue Flag area has a quaint mediaeval town to explore and clean beaches. From Termini station take one of the frequent trains headed towards Naples, get off at Formia and take the bus for another 25 minutes until you reach Gaeta. For more information about transportation consult the Cotral and Trenitalia websites www.cotralspa.it, www.trenitalia.it.

Pools TOP 10

OUT DO O R P O O LS I N RO M E Come mid-summer in Rome, most of us are in need of the cool of an outdoor pool to relax by. But Rome isn’t awash with them and most are part of privately- owned swimming and sports clubs or upmarket hotels. Expect to pay upwards of €40 a day per person for entry to exquisitely chic surroundings at the top end of the spectrum, and at least €10 for perfectly adequate but som times crowded and scruffy cheaper pools. We’ve picked ten of Rome’s best, from New York-style rooftop pools with to-die-for views over the city and a nice line in cocktails to family-friendly cheap and cheerful clubs. The € symbols represent ranking by price.

Piscina delle rose

Radisson SAS Hotel

1. ALDROVANDI PALACE

7. HYDROMANIA

Small and very select city-centre oasis, La Ranocchia (meaning “little frog”) is shaded by overhanging palms and huge cream parasols. Arrive early as space is limited around this pool. Mon-Sun 10.00-19.30. Mon-Sat €55, Sun €60, weekly pass €350. Via Ulisse Aldrovandi 15 (Parioli), tel. 063223993, www.aldrovandi.com. €€€€

Think miles of water slides, wave machines, pools, South-Pacific-style thatched bars, shops and a mini-club. Weekdays 09.30-18.30, weekends 09.30-19.30. Daily adult rate €24, kids €19. Half day rates €19/17. Casal Lumbroso 33 (Aurelio), tel. 0666183183, www.hydromania.it. €€

2. BELLE ARTI

8. PISCINA DELLE ROSE

Free at weekends and well worth a mention for its fantastic central location tucked behind a church on Via Flaminia. A quiet atmosphere makes it good for those with very young children. Mon-Fri 07.00-21.00. €15. Sat 07.00-20.00, Sun 08.00-20.00. €25. Children aged 7-13 accompanied by adult pay €10 week day / €15 weekend. Via Flaminia 158 (Flaminio), tel. 063226529, www.circolotennisbellearti.it. €€

Large pool perfect for families, swimming and canoeing lessons. Mon-Fri 09.00-21.00, weekends 09.00-19.00 (€16 per day, €14 half-day). Viale America 20 (EUR), tel. 065926717, www.piscinadellerose.it. €€

3. CAVALIERI HILTON This Olympic-sized outdoor pool-witha-view is the crème de la crème of Rome’s pools if you like serious swimming. It’s large, luxurious and well worth the trip to Monte Mario. With a separate children’s pool. 08.00-19.00 daily (weekdays €40, weekends €80, sun lounger and towel included). Via Alberto Cadlolo 101 (Monte Mario), tel. 0635091, www.cavalieri-hilton.it. €€€€€

4. CIRCOLO VALENTINI Slightly shabby but friendly, family-run pool, used by locals. The adjoining restaurant will make up a lunchtime salad for around €4. 09.00-19.00 (weekdays €10, half-day €7, weekends €14/€10). Via della Marcigliana 597, corner Via Bufalotta (Talenti/Prati Fiscali), tel. 0687120207, www.circolovalentini.it. €

9. RADISSON SAS HOTEL Seriously smart and stunning heated rooftop swimming pool with sections for children and adults and poolside fine dining. 09.00-19.00 (adults €65 Mon-Fri, €90 Sat-Sun, children 50 per cent off ). Via Filippo Turati 171 (Esquilino), tel. 06444841, www.radissonblu.com/eshotel-rome. €€€€

10. S.S.D. VITA Professional, outdoor swimming pool arranges lessons for children and adults and has tennis courts and a gym. Mon-Fri 07.00-21.30. €12 daily. Sat 07.00-20.00. Sun 08.00-20.00. €15 daily rate weekend. Children aged 10 upwards pay adult rate. Kids aged 5-10 €8, kids under 5 free. Via del Fontanile Arenato 66 (Aurelio), tel. 066634202, www.vitaclub.it. €

5. CLUB LANCIANI A large tennis club with an outdoor pool offering lessons, free swimming and a children’s summer school. Weekdays 09.30-18.30, weekends 09.30-19.30. Adults €10.50/15, kids €7.50/11. Via di Pietralata 135 (Tiburtino), tel. 064181401, www.clublanciani.eu. €€

6. GRAND HOTEL GIANICOLO Part of a luxury hotel, this pool is located in elegant surroundings with palm trees and views of Trastevere from the Gianicolo hill. Lunch and dinner served at pool-side restaurant. 09.00-19.00, weekdays €25, weekend rate €35. Via delle Mura Gianicolensi 107 (Gianicolo), tel. 0658333405, www.grandhotelgianicolo.it. €€

20 | September 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Hydromania

ROME'S MAJOR

MUSEUMS VATICAN MUSEUMS Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums

Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

STATE MUSEUMS Baths of Diocletian

Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Borghese Museum

Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

22 | September 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Crypta Balbi

Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's modern art collection. Mon closed.

MAXXI

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.

STUDY ABROAD AND DEGREE PROGRAMS IN ROME

www.johncabot.edu admissions@johncabot.edu Wanted in Rome â&#x20AC;¢ September 2019 | 23

24 | September 2019 â&#x20AC;¢ Wanted in Rome

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

CITY MUSEUMS Centrale Montemartini

Museo Napoleonico

Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS

Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.

Casa di Goethe

Capitoline Museums

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun.

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Chiostro Del Bramante

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.

MACRO Asilo

Galleria Colonna

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space until the end of 2019. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.

MATTATOIO

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Museo Barracco

Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.

Giorgio de Chirico House Museum

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Keats-Shelley House

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Museo storico della Liberazione

Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127. Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Museo Canonica

Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).

Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking. Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it. Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from 1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.

Palazzo Merulana

Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it. Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection, including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation. 09.00-20.00. Tues closed.

Wanted in Rome • September 2019 | 25

ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY

ART GALLERIES

1/9 Unosunove

1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.

A.A.M. Architettura

Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ff-maam.it.

Contemporary Cluster

Visual art, design, architecture, fashion design and beauty apothecary in a 17th-century palace. Via dei Barbieri 7, tel. 0668805928, www.contemporarycluster.com.

C.R.E.T.A.

Cultural association promoting ceramics and the visual, humanistic, musical and culinary arts through workshops, exhibitions and artist residencies. Palazzo Delfini, Via dei Delfini 17, tel. 0689827701, www.cretarome.com.

Dorothy Circus Gallery

Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.

Ex Elettrofonica

This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.

Fondazione Memmo

Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.

Fondazione Pastificio Cerere

This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pastificiocerere.com.

Fondazione Volume!

The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.

26 | September 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Franz Paludetto

Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.

Frutta

This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via dei Salumi 53 tel. 0645508934, www.fruttagallery.com.

Gagosian Gallery

The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

GALLA

Exhibition space designed to showcase original, unconventional art works at affordable prices by artists working in various fields. Via degli Zingari 28, tel. 3476552515, www.facebook.com/GALLAmonti.

Galleria Alessandro Bonomo

Gallery showing the works of important Italian and international visual artists. Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858, www.bonomogallery.com.

Galleria Valentina Bonomo

Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works specifically for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte

Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Galleria della Tartaruga

Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.

Galleria Il Segno

Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.

Galleria Mucciaccia

Nomas Foundation

Galleria Russo

Operativa Arte Contemporanea

Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com. This historic gallery holds group and solo exhibitions showcasing the work of major 20th-century Italian painters alongside promising new Italian artists. Via Alibert 20, tel. 066789949, www.galleriarusso.it.

Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com. A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.

Pian de Giullari

A dynamic gallery near Campo deâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di Grotta Pinta 38, tel. 066865415, www.galleriavarsi.it.

Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.

Gavin Brown's Enterprise

Plus Arte Puls

Galleria Varsi

New York gallerist Gavin Brown shows the work of international artists at his Trastevere gallery in a deconsecrated church dating to the eighth century. S. Andrea de Scaphis, Via dei Vascellari 69, www.gavinbrown.biz.

Il Ponte Contemporanea

Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via Giuseppe Acerbi 31A, tel. 0653098768, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.

La Nuova Pesa

Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.

Magazzino dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Arte Moderna

Contemporary art gallery that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.

Monitor

This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, tel. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.

Musia living (&) arts

Multi-functional space launched by Roman entrepreneur Ovido Jacorossi, dedicated to contemporary art as well as fashion, music and architecture. Via dei Chiavari 7, tel. 0668210213, www.musia.it.

Nero Gallery

Space dedicated to showcasing young international artists working in pop surrealism, lowbrow art, dark art, comic art and surrealism. Via Castruccio Castracane 9, tel. 0627801418, www.nerogallery.com.

Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls.com.

RvB ARTS

Rome-based gallery specialising in affordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www.rvbarts.com.

Sala 1

This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.

S.T. Foto libreria galleria

Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri

The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.

T293

The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it.

The Gallery Apart

This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.

TraleVolte

Contemporary art gallery focusing on the relationship between art and architecture, hosting solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org.

White Noise Gallery

Based in the S. Lorenzo district, this gallery exhibits unconventional work by young Italian and international artists. Via della Seggiola 9, tel. 066832833, www.whitenoisegallery.it.

Wunderkammern

This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www.wunderkammern.net.

Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin

Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria offers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it. Wanted in Rome â&#x20AC;˘ September 2019 | 27

Join us on Your Journey

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Via di Villa Lauchli 180 00191 Rome, Italy +39 06 362 91012 www.marymountrome.com admissions@marymountrome.com

where to go in Rome WHAT’S ON

Secret Impressionists at Palazzo Bonaparte. Devant la psyché (1890) by Berthe Morisot. See page 31.

Wanted in Rome • September 2019 | 29

30 | September 2019 • Wanted in Rome

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EXHIBITIONS

Secret Impressionists at Palazzo Bonaparte. Devant la psyché (1890) by Berthe Morisot. Collection Fondation Pierre Gianadda. Photo Michel Darbellay.

CANOVA

9 Oct-15 March

An exhibition of works by Italian neoclassical sculptor Antonio Canova (1757-1822) is scheduled at Museo di Roma - Palazzo Braschi but details were unavailable at the time of going to press. Canova is regarded by many as the greatest of the neoclassical artists, and is celebrated for his magnificent marble sculptures such as Amore e Psiche, Tre Grazie and Paolina Borghese. Piazza Navona 2, tel. 060608, www.museodiroma.it.

SECRET IMPRESSIONISTS 6 Oct-8 March

Palazzo Bonaparte, a major new exhibition space located where Via del Corso meets Piazza Venezia,

launches with an exhibition comprising more than 50 works from important private collections. The works, mostly never shown in public before, are by Monet, Renoir, Cézanne, Pissarro, Sisley, Caillebotte, Morisot, Gonzalès, Gauguin and Signac. For more details see Art News page 36. Generali Valore Cultura, Palazzo Bonaparte, Piazza Venezia 5.

LA SCUOLA DI LONDRA: OPERE DELLA TATE 26 Sept-23 Feb

Rome’s Chiostro del Bramante is to host a major exhibition dedicated to the School of London, featuring paintings by Lucian Freud and Francis Bacon, organised in collaboration with the Tate Britain in London. The show

will unite the works of Bacon and Freud for the first time in Italy, highlighting a significant chapter of international contemporary art in the 20th century. The exhibition comprises 45 paintings, drawings and engravings by six artists: Michael Andrews, Frank Auerbach, Leon Kossoff and Paula Rego, in addition to Freud and Bacon. The figurative works span more than seven decades, from 1945 until 2004, and are described by the Chiostro del Bramante as “direct, shocking and no-filter.” The works share raw and emotionally-charged subject matter, with themes including the fragility of the human condition, war, immigration, excess and the search for truth. In the case of Bacon and Freud, the works examine the artists’ friendship as well as their relationships with their models. Highlights of the show will reportedly incude Bacon’s Study for a Portrait (1952) and Portrait of Isabel Rawsthorne (1966), and Freud’s Girl with a White Dog (1950) and Standing by the Rags (1988). The term ‘School of London’ was coined by artist R.B. Kitaj to describe a group of London-based artists pursuing forms of figurative painting in the face of avant-garde approaches in the 1970s. Curated by Elena Crippa, the exhibition sees the Chiostro del Bramante renew its collaboration with The Tate, following its successful Turner show in Rome in 2018. Chiostro del Bramante, Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

TRACEY EMIN: LEAVING 21 Sept-20 Nov

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill presents its sixth exhibition dedicated to British contemporary artist Tracey Emin who shot to international fame in 1998 with her controversial installation My Bed. Born in 1963, Emin is a leading figure of the Young British Artists movement - a loose group of visual artists who began Wanted in Rome • September 2019 | 31

32 | September 2019 â&#x20AC;¢ Wanted in Rome

exhibiting together in London in 1988. Her Rome exhibition comprises new paintings and works on paper. Galleria Lorcan O’Neill, Vicolo Dei Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www. lorcanoneill.com.

LUCA SIGNORELLI AND ROME 19 July-3 Nov

The Capitoline Museums pay tribute to Luca Signorelli (c.14501523), one of Italy’s greatest Renaissance artists whose work influenced Raphael and Michelangelo. Described as a “selection of highly prestigious works” from Italian and foreign collections, the exhibition highlights Rome’s direct and indirect link in Signorelli’s work. Musei Capitolini, Piazza del

Campidoglio 1, tel. 060608, www. museicapitolini.org.

ON FLOWER POWER 16 July-29 Sept

The Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea examines the important role of the flower vase – “a seemingly neutral object” – in the history of arts, crafts and design. Curated by Martí Guixé, the exhibition uses the flower vase to offer an unconventional exploration of the “hybrid territory in which art, design and craftsmanship interact.” On display are more than 80 works that reinterpret the tradition and iconography of the vase through design, photography, sculpture and painting by leading

Bacon, Freud and the School of London at Chiostro del Bramante. Girl with a Kitten (1947) by Lucian Freud. © Lucian Freud Archive / Bridgeman Images. Photo © Tate, London 2019.

Tracey Emin at Galleria Lorcan O’Neill. The Idea of Love (2018). Courtesy Galleria Lorcan O’Neill.

figures in the international design scene, in addition to about 30 still lifes from the gallery’s collection by artists including De Pisis, Mafai, Morandi and Scialoja. Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, www.lagallerianazionale.com.

COLORI DEGLI ETRUSCHI 11 July-2 Feb

Centrale Montemartini holds an exhibition of terracotta treasures from the Etruscan era from the Cerveteri area of north Lazio. The plates and decorative architectural mouldings were recently returned to Italy after a joint operation by the Carabinieri and the culture ministry to combat the illegal trafficking of archaeological finds. Centrale Montemartini, Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www. centralemontemartini.org.

BVLGARI, THE STORY, THE DREAM 26 June-3 Nov

Luxury jeweller Bulgari displays sumptuous jewellery and vintage fashion from the Dolce Vita era at an exhibition hosted in Rome’s Palazzo Venezia and Castel S. Angelo. Entitled Bvlgari, the story, the dream, the show features the diamond and sapphire sautoir necklace given to Elizabeth Taylor by Hollywood star Richard Burton during their stormy love affair. The history of the Bulgari brand is told at Palazzo Venezia while the Hollywood and the Tiber section at Castel S. Angelo features jewels Wanted in Rome • September 2019 | 33

described by curators Bartolomeo Pietromarchi and Luigia Lonardelli as a “fitting tribute to an artist who created, ahead of the latest research into relational art, a language combining sensibility, local traditions and global codes.” The show comprises more than 100 works spanning from the early 1960s through to her final years, and includes sewn books, sculptures, public works and her celebrated “looms”. MAXXI, Via Guido Reni 4A, www.maxxi.art.

PLESSI A CARACALLA 18 June-29 Sept

Luca Signorelli at the Capitoline Museums. Testa di Maddalena piangente (1504-1505), collection Bologna Musei Civici d’Arte Antica.

owned or worn by legendary actresses including Sophia Loren, Gina Lollobrigida, Anna Magnani and Audrey Hepburn. For exhibition details see ArtCity website, www.art-city.it.

LUIGI BOILLE

21 June-3 Nov

Under the title Luoghi di luce, scrittura del silenzio, this exhibition at the Casina dei Principi in Villa Torlonia is a retrospective to the late Italian painter Luigi Boille, one of the key protagonists of Arte Informale. This movement began in post-war Europe, coinciding with the advent of Abstract Expressionism in the US, and was defined as a type of abstraction in which form became less important than the expressive impulses of the artist. The exhibition comprises more than 80 works, painted between 1958 and 2015, the year of the artist’s death in Rome. Musei di Villa Torlonia, Casino dei Principi, tel. 060608, www. museivillatorlonia.it.

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FRANK HOLLIDAY IN ROME 20 June-13 Oct

The Museo di Carlo Bilotti becomes the first Italian museum to devote an exhibition to Frank Holliday, one of the artists synonymous with Club 57, the East Village venue for artists and musicians, recently honoured with a major exhibition at MoMA. Holliday’s Rome show contains 36 paintings, inspired by the works of the Old Masters, created in his studio near Piazza Navona during the summer of 2016. Museo Carlo Bilotti, Viale Fiorello La Guardia, tel. 060608, www.museocarlobilotti.it.

MARIA LAI. HOLDING THE SUN BY THE HAND 19 June-12 Jan

On the centerary of the artist’s birth, MAXXI devotes a major exhibition to Maria Lai (19192013), considered one of the more individual figures in Italian contemporary art. The exhibition is

A newly-opened section of tunnels at the Baths of Caracalla features a contemporary art installation created by artist Fabrizio Plessi and set to music by composer Michael Nyman. Entitled Plessi at Caracalla: The Secret of Time, the display comprises 12 sculptural installations inspired by the baths and the brutal emperor Caracalla, using imagery of elements such as fire and water. Baths of Caracalla, Viale delle Terme di Caracalla, www.coopculture.it.

EMILIANO MANCUSO: UNA DIVERSA BELLEZZA 14 June-6 Oct

The Museo di Roma in Trastevere presents Una diversa bellezza. Italia 2003 – 2018, an exhibition dedicated to the work of photographer Emiliano Mancuso who died last year aged 47. Curated by Renata Ferri, the exhibition features 150 works from four of Mancuso’s main bodies of work: Terre di Sud, Stato d’Italia, Il Diario di Felix and Le Cicale. The images, in colour and black and white, reveal Mancuso’s range of techniques, from digital and analog to Polaroid. The photographs were taken over a 15-year period, from 2003 until 2018. Exhibition organisers say the images provide a snapshot of a “wounded Italy in constant search for its identity.” Museo di Roma in Trastevere, Piazza di S. Egidio 1b, tel. 060608, www.museodiromaintrastevere.it.

IL CICLO DELLA VITA 13 June-6 Oct

With the title The cycle of life, from birth to death, the National Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia presents an exhibition addressing the “physiological interweaving of moments of life from a social point of view.” Displaying Etruscan artefacts offered as gifts to the gods, the exhibition confronts themes such as birth, illness, old age and death. Entry included in museum ticket. Villa Giulia, Piazzale di Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www. museoetru.it.

L’ARTE RITROVATA 7 June-26 Jan

The Capitoline Museums mark the 50th anniversary of the establishment of the special Carabinieri unit for the protection of cultural heritage with an exhibition of looted archaeological and artistic treasures returned to Italy. The works, normally kept in the vaults of important Italian museums, range from the Greek, Etruscan and Roman ages up to

Luigi Boille at Villa Torlonia. Rue Guénégaud (1958).

the Renaissance and Baroque eras. Highlights include a painting of John the Baptist by Guercino, frescoes torn from a Roman villa in the Pompeii area, and bronzes

excavated illegally in southern Italy. Palazzo dei Conservatori, Capitoline Museums, Piazza del Campidoglio 1, tel. 060608, www. museicapitolini.org.

On Flower Power at Galleria Nazionale. Aircleaninglady (2016) by Aurora Sander. Courtesy of artist. Photo Markus Georg / Insitu.

Wanted in Rome • September 2019 | 35

WECHSELSPIEL 30 May-13 Oct

The city’s modern art gallery is holding a double site-specific installation by Paolo Bielli and Susanne Kessler in the building’s cloister. The works – silhouettes by Bielli and embroidery by Kessler – are in dialogue with nearby sculptures and tie in with the gallery’s current exhibition examining the representation of women in 20th-century art. Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna, Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.galleriaartemodernaroma.it.

CLAUDIO IMPERATORE 6 April-27 Oct

The Ara Pacis museum holds a major exhibition dedicated to Claudius, one of the most controversial Roman emperors, who ruled from AD 41 to 54. Featuring historical and archaeological artefacts, the exhibition highlights the life and reign of Claudius, from his birth in Lyon in 10 BC until his death in Rome in 54 AD. The exhibition places a particular focus on the emperor’s personality, his political and administrative work, his ties to Augustus and his brother Germanicus, as well as his tragic relationship with his wives Messalina and Agrippina. Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta, tel. 060608, www.arapacis.it.

Frank Holliday at Museo Carlo Bilotti. Yellow Jackets.

ELISABETTA CATALANO 3 April-22 Dec

The MAXXI pays homage to Elisabetta Catalano (1944-2015), a Roman fine-art photographer

Emiliano Mancuso at Museo di Roma in Trastevere. Terre di Sud. Pozzuoli, 2005.

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who specialised in portraits. The exhibition features slides, photos and vintage prints, investigating in particular the relationship between Catalano’s photography

and performance art, presenting portraits of artists such as Joseph Beuys, Fabio Mauri, Vettor Pisani and Cesare Tacchi during the preparatory phases of the performative process. Museo nazionale delle arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4A, www.maxxi.art.

ROMA NELLA CAMERA OSCURA 27 March-22 Sept

Palazzo Braschi hosts an exhibition comprising photographs of Rome spanning from the birth of the medium in the mid-19th century to the present day. The earliest images on display illustrate the topographical, historical and social aspects that characterised the final years of papal Rome as well as the emergence of the profession of the photgrapher and the beginning of the photograph’s role as a souvenir for tourists and pilgrims. Museo di Roma, Piazza S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, www.museodiroma.it.

ROBERT MAPPLETHORPE: L’OBIETTIVO SENSIBILE 15 March-6 Oct

Galleria Corsini showcases the work of celebrated American photographer Robert Mapplethorpe

(1946-1999) on the 30th anniversary of his death. The show comprises 45 photographs by Mapplethorpe who courted much controversy in the US over the homoerotic nature of his work. The Rome exhibition focuses on some of the artist’s less controversial themes such as still lifes, landscapes, classical statues and Renaissance composition. Galleria Corsini, Via della Lungara 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org.

DONNE: CORPO E IMMAGINE TRA SIMBOLO E RIVOLUZIONE 24 Jan-13 Oct

Rome’s municipal modern art gallery highlights the evolution of the female image in art from the late 19th century to the present day. The 100 works on display – including paintings, sculpture, photographs and video – reveal how women have been portrayed variously as objects of admiration and mystery or as angels and temptresses, until artists caught up with a more modern age in the 1960s. Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna, Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www. galleriaartemodernaroma.it.

KRONOS E KAIROS 19 July-3 Nov

The open-air exhibition Kronos and Kairos. The times of contemporary art takes place at various outdoor venues around the Palatine Hill and features the work of 15 important contemporary Italian and international artists. Curated by Lorenzo Benedetti, the exhibition's title refers to the ancient Greeks' two words for time: chronos, referring to chronological time, and kairos, relating to a time for action. This concept of a double definition creates a bond as well as a contrast, as expressed in the site-specific works in the collective exhibition which acts as a bridge between ancient and contemporary. The selected works, which include audiovisual pieces and installations, can be found among the Palatine Hill's archaeological heritage. The exhibition evokes "illusion, power, myth and precariousness", according to Alfonsina Russo, director of the Archaeological Park of the Colosseum. For the duration of the exhibition, specially-trained history of art students from Rome's La Sapienza University will be on hand to answer visitors' questions about the works on display.

Ai nati oggi by Alberto Garutti at Piazza del Popolo.

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The exhibiting artists are: Nina Beier, Catherine Biocca, Fabrizio Cotognini, Dario D’Aronco, Rä di Martino, Jimmie Durham, Kasia Fudakowski, Giuseppe Gabellone, Hans Josephsohn, Oliver Laric, Cristina Lucas, Matt Mullican, Hans Op de Beeck, Giovanni Ozzola and Fernando Sánchez Castillo. For full details see Electa website, www.electa.it.

AI NATI OGGI 2 July-31 Dec

A public art project in Piazza del Popolo celebrates the "universal event of birth", according to its organisers the MAXXI Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI secolo. Entitled Ai nati oggi, the installation by artist Alberto Garutti revolves around the square's lampposts being connected to the maternity ward at Rome's Gemelli hospital. Each

Kronos e Kairos on the Palatine Hill. Stone Foundation by Jimmie Durham.

time the light pulses - for about 30 seconds - it signifies the birth of a baby. MAXXI says the installation is dedicated to each new arrival and all the newly-born babies that day

in Rome. For details see MAXXI website, www.maxxi.art/it/. See other exhibitions on our website www.wantedinrome.com.

Antonio Pappano opens the season at S. Cecilia in October with Grande Messe des Morts by Berlioz.

CLASSICAL MILAN MITO SETTEMBREMUSICA 3-19 Sept

Unlike Rome, where the classical music season doesn’t begin until October (it seems to get later every year), Milan has an excellent

programme in September with MITO SettembreMusica. Concerts are usually performed in Milan first and then in Turin. There are over 100 concerts and 20 premieres with internationally famous soloists, top orchestras and conductors, all at very accessible prices designed to attract a wide audience. This year the theme

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of the festival is Geography. What better inauguration (3 Sept at La Scala) than Zubin Metha conducting the Israel Philharmonic, Martha Argerich as soloist, with music by Beethoven and Berlioz. The concert will then be repeated the following day in Turin. For the full programme see www.mitosettembremusica.it.

ROME

The new season does not begin until October / November. However Romaeuropa festival provides an ambitious range of contemporary music, musical theatre, digital, electronic, from the end of September until 24 November. Its theme this year is Landscape. See Festivals, page 44.

ACCADEMIA FILARMONICA ROMANA LA CAMBIALE DI MATRIMONIO BY ROSSINI 12-13 Oct

To start the season Rossini’s oneact farce will be performed at Villa Torlonia with the ensemble of advanced students from S. Cecilia and pianists Maria Laura Berardo and Annie Corrado. The production is part of the Filarmonica’s RossinniLab project. The opening concert is on 7 Nov with Sol Gabetta cello and Nelson Goerner piano with music by Brahms, Franck and Schubert at Teatro Argentina. For more details of the 2019-2020 season see www.filarmonicaromana. org.

ISTITUZIONE UNIVERSITARIO DEI CONCERTI LES ARTS FLORISSANTS 15 Oct

This French vocal group, Les Arts Florissants, conducted by Paul Agnew, will inaugurate the IUC season with an integral performance of the third book of Carlo Gesualdo da Venosa’s madrigals. They will return in Feb 2020 to perform the fourth book as part of Les Arts Florissant project to perform all Gesualdo’s madrigals. This year the IUC celebrates is 75th anniversary with a new project to take music into schools with concerts and talks, starting in the spring. It is also launching a new IUCTube initiative as a background and guide to its concerts. The project will be in the hands of the music students at the Sapienza University. www. concertiiuc.it.

OTHER VENUES

Some of Rome’s English speaking churches, such as St Paul’s within

the Walls, All Saints’ Anglican church, Ponte S. Angelo Methodist church and the Oratorio Caravita also have concerts and opera recitals. S. Agnese in Agone in Piazza Navona and Palazzo Doria Pamphilj are two other places that often offer concerts and opera recitals. See www. romaoperaomnia.com.

VENICE

If you are in Venice for the Biennale it is also worth remembering that there is the Festival Internazionale di Musica Contemporanea from 27 Sept-6 Oct. George Benjamin inaugurates the festival on 27 Sept with his work Written On Skin performed by the RAI symphony orchestra. Mohini Dey, one of India’s youngest bass guitar players, performs funky fusion on 29 Sept and on 1 Oct Georges Aperghis presents the Italian premiere of his latest work Thinking Things on the interaction of humans and robots. For more detailed information see www. labiennale.org.

ACCADEMIA S. CECILIA BERLIOZ

10-12 Oct

Antonio Pappano conducts tenor Javier Camarena in Grande Messe des morts, one of the best-known Berlioz works and the one he said he would save if all the others were threatened with destruction. Berlioz revised it for the second time just a couple of years before his death in 1869. Grande Messe des Morts was performed by S. Cecilia on its Amsterdam tournee in May, conducted by Antonio Pappano and with Javier Camarena. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

MITO SettembreMusica hosts over 100 concerts and 20 premieres in Milan and Turin.

Wanted in Rome • September 2019 | 39

Palazzo Bonaparte opens its doors as Generali Valore Cultura.

ART NEWS MAJOR NEW EXHIBITION SPACE IN CENTRAL ROME

Rome welomes a major new exhibition space at the recently-restored Palazzo Bonaparte in the city centre, where Via del Corso meets Piazza Venezia. Owned by Generali Italia, Italy’s largest insurance company, Generali Valore Cultura at Palazzo Bonaparte will be run in partnership with Arthemisia, an Italian firm which organises international art shows. Palazzo Bonaparte opens on 6 October with the launch of Secret Impressionists, comprising over 50 works from important private collections by artists including Monet, Renoir, Cézanne, Pissarro, Sisley, Morisot, Gauguin and Signac. The opening of Palazzo Bonaparte sees Arthemisia move its programme of blockbuster exhibitions from the nearby Vittoriano, following the recent conclusion of a three-year deal. The 17th-century Palazzo Bonaparte is best known as the home of Napoleon’s mother, who watched the world go by from the building’s green balcony from 1818 until her death in 1836.

QUIRINALE CELEBRATES CONTEMPORARY ART

Italy’s presidential palace in Rome – the 16th-century Palazzo del Quirinale – has added 68 pieces of contemporary art by Italian artists and designers to its vast collection. The paintings, sculptures and designer furniture by Italy’s leading artists, from the post-war era to today, are displayed in the palace’s splendid rooms, courtyards and gardens. The Quirinale Contemporaneo initiative had the full support of President Sergio Mattarella who said that the project testified to the “history and important events of our country”, adding: “Italian art did not stop in the 19th century.” The permanent display includes works by Carla Accardi, Afro, Mirko Basaldella, Alberto Burri, Giorgio de Chirico, Giosetta Fioroni, Renato Guttuso,

40 | September 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Lucio Fontana, Maria Lai, Giacomo Manzù and Gio Ponti. For details about visiting Palazzo del Quirinale see website, www.palazzo.quirinale.it.

ROME UNCOVERS MEDIAEVAL FRESCO HIDDEN FOR 900 YEARS

A large fresco dating from the 12th century has been discovered at the Church of S. Alessio on Rome’s Aventine Hill, after being hidden in the building’s counter-façade for 900 years. Described as being in extraordinarily good condition, the fresco is believed to depict “St Alessio and the Pilgrim Christ”, according to Claudia Viggiani, the art historian behind the find. The fresco measures 90 cm wide and more than four metres high. Its discovery followed a lengthy search after Viggiani came across a curious archival document, written in 1965, referring to a hidden fresco “in excellent condition” but failing to note its address.

WATERS FLOW AGAIN AT NYMPHAEUM OF MIRRORS

The fountains and surprise water jets of the Ninfeo degli Specchi are flowing once again – after 300 years – thanks to the ongoing restoration of Rome’s Palatine Hill. Part of the Horti Farnesiani gardens belonging to the powerful Farnese family, the cave-like nymphaeum is attributed to Renaissance architect Pirro Ligorio. The garden of delights was built among ancient Roman ruins on the northen slopes of the Palatino in the mid-16th century however within 200 years it had become completely abandoned. The Ninfeo degli Specchi, originally covered with a dome, is decorated with stalactites and mirrorholding satyrs. Modern-day visitors can still experience the fun of being sprayed unexpectedly by “rain” thanks to new water jets, hidden once more at the nymphaeum. Andy Devane

RO MA

DANCE MILAN TEATRO ALLA SCALA GISELLE 17 Sept-8 Oct

David Halberg will be the guest artist along with Svetlana Zakharova on 17, 19 and 24 Sept in this reworked version of Giselle, revived by Yvette Chaiviré and conducted by David Coleman. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.

ONEGIN

24 Oct-10 Nov

La Scala audiences will be able to see Roberto Bolle, who resigned as the principal dancer of the American Theatre Ballet in June after more than 10 years with the company. He returns to dance at La Scala alongside Marianela Nunez on 24, 26, 29 Oct and 10 Nov. Onegin by John Cranko is revived by Agneta and Victor Valcu and conducted by Felix Korobov. This same production with the same dancers and also conducted by Korobov was staged in Milan two years ago. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.

ROME ACCADEMIA FILARMONICA ROMANA MIGUEL ANGEL ZOTTO TE SIENTO

Akram Khan in his choroegraphy Xenos. Image Jean Louis Fernandez.

ROMAEUROPA FESTIVAL 17 Sept-24 Nov

As usual the Romaeuropa Festival offers a feast for dance enthusiasts. First up is Italian premiere of Furia (17-19 Sept) by the Brazilian choreographer Lia Rodriguez. It is followed by the much-awaited Italian premiere of Xenos, the latest Akram Khan choreography (1820 Sept). Sadly this will be one of the last occasions to see him dance in a full-length solo role. Aged 43 he is now retiring from taxing solo dance. Xenos, which was premiered in 2018, evokes the trials of a shellshocked Indian soldier during world war one. Over four million men were mobilised from the British colonies during world war one and they are only now beginning to get some recognition for the vital role they played. From 25-26 Sept it is the turn of another Brazilian

15-27 Oct

In Te Siento Migeul Angel Zotto, one of today’s top tango dancers, dances out the story told in his book of the same title about his rise from a Buenos Aires barrio to the top stages of the world. The performance forms part of the Giornate della Danza organised by the Accademia Filarmonica Romana in conjunction with Teatro Olimpico. Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabiano 17, www.teatroolimpico.it.

42 | September 2019 • Wanted in Rome

choreographer, Bruno Beltrau and his Grupo de Rua in the Italian premiere of Inoah, an abstract work in an urban context. This is also an Italian first. See www.romaeuropa. net for times and places.

TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA DON QUIXOTE 15-20 Oct

This production is based on the version choreographed by Mikhail Baryshnikov for the American Theatre Ballet. The dancers are almost exclusively up-and-coming Italians. Evgenia Obraztsov, Rebecca Bianchi and Susanna Salvi will dance the role of Kitri and Isaac Hernandez, Davide Dato and Alessio Rezza take the part of Basilio. The conductor is David Garforth. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it.

Roberto Bolle returns to dance with Marianela Nunez in Onegin at La Scala.

ddance oopera p pop r ock r ance

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano www.teatrovascello.it 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it

pera

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

ock

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Concert venues ranging from major pop and Alexanderplatz, 9, tel. 0683775604 rock groups to Via jazzOstia and acoustic gigs. www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org Angelo Mai Via Atlantico delle Terme di Atlantico, VialeAltrove, dell’Oceano 271d, Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it

Atlantico, Viale Atlantico Auditorium Parcodell’Oceano della Musica, Viale 271d, P. de tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com Auditorium della Viale de Casa del Jazz, Parco Viale di PortaMusica, Ardeatina 55,P.tel. Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com 06704731, www.casajazz.it

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

heatre heatre

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net www.teatrobelli.it Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobelli.it www.teatrobrancaccio.it Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatrobrancaccio.it www.teatroghione.it Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. www.teatroghione.it 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net

PalaLottomatica, Piazzale Sport 1, tel. Rock in Roma, Via Appiadello Nuova 1245, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, te 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it www.teatrosangenesio.it Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsi www.teatrosangenesio.it stina.it Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.ilsistina.it www.teatrovascello.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Vittoria,www.teatrovascello.it Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, te tel. 065898031, 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it 4951 | Jan 2019 • Wanted in Rome | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome

by Brazilian choreographer Lia Rodrigues (17 Sept). Once again the festival attracts some of the most important names from the world of contemporary arts, such as Akram Khan, Gerard Richter and William Forsythe. There are also numerous children’s events, under the umbrella REF Kids, as well as the 10th edition of the parallel futuristic section Digital Life, which examines the interaction between visual arts and technology. For programme and tickets see website, www.romaeuropa.net.

FESTIVALS ARTCITY

27 June-16 Sept

The cultural festival ARTCITY comprises around 200 events incorporating art, architecture, audiovisual, dance, literature, music and theatre, at museums and cultural sites in Rome and the Lazio region. The festival includes initiatives such as the Sere d’Arte classical concerts and theatrical productions for children at Castel S. Angelo; and Conversazioni nella Loggia, a series of art-themed conferences at Palazzo Venezia. The programme also features exhibitions including one dedicated to the history of luxury jeweller Bulgari, held at Castel S. Angelo and Palazzo Venezia. For full details see ARTCITY website, www. art-city.it.

ARTESCIENZA 12-30 Sept

This festival, which explores the connections between science and the contemporary arts, resumes after a summer break. The programme offers interactive meetings, masterclasses, concerts and performances under the theme Interattivo Adattivo. The September programme features an audio-visual installation at MUSA - Museo degli Strumenti musicali

44 | September 2019 • Wanted in Rome

dell’Accademia Nazionale di S. Cecilia. For full details see website, www.artescienza.info/it.

ROMAEUROPA FESTIVAL: LANDSCAPES 17 Sept-24 Nov

The 34th edition of Rome’s multidisciplinary arts festival is a particularly international affair this year, with 377 artists from 27 countries contributing to the programme of contemporary dance, theatre, art, music and technology. Under the title Landscapes, the festival continues to expand, with 126 events taking place in 20 venues across the city, under the artistic direction of Fabrizio Grifasi. Highlights this year include the opening show Furia, an energetic dance performance

The eighth edition of the Taste of Roma festival takes place once again in the roof gardens of the Auditorium Parco della Musica, recently named after Italian conductor Claudio Abbado, from 19-22 September. The capital’s answer to Taste, the world’s foremost restaurant festival, the fourday gourmet event showcases the best of Roman haute cuisine. Chefs from 14 of Rome’s top restaurants provide cooking demonstrations and prepare signature dishes, offering 56 dishes at prices ranging from €6 to €10. Novelties this year include the cookery school, BBQ Academy, Tanqueray 10 bar, the exclusive The Residence restaurant by Zacapa, and the Diners Club VIP Lounge. Visitors can enjoy wine-tastings with sommeliers and public encounters with noted chefs and food professionals, all within an informal, open-air atmosphere. There are numerous interactive events and activities, many of which are aimed at children. For details see website, www.tasteofroma.it. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

Taste of Roma returns to the Auditorium Parco della Musica.

Wanted in Rome â&#x20AC;¢ September 2019 | 45

Donizetti’s L’Elisir d’Amore will be conducted by Michele Gamba at La Scala in September.

opera MILAN TEATRO ALLA SCALA RIGOLETTO BY VERDI 2-20 Sept

Each year La Scala gives the students the chance to perform in a production with a famous conductor and world class singers. This year Daniel Oren conducts the 1994 traditional production of Verdi’s opera by Gilbert Deflo, with Leo Nucci in the lead role. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

L’ELISIR D’AMORE BY DONIZETTI 10 Sept-10 Oct

The young Michele Gamba, a pupil of both Antonio Pappano and Daniel Barenboim, conducts this production which is directed by Grisha Asagaroff. Singers include Rosa Feola as Adina and Vittorio Grigolo as Nemorino (on 1, 4, 7, 10 Oct). Asagaroff’s staging was first seen at La Scala in Sept 2015. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

only two singers (here Alison Cook and Robin Adams) and is directed by Alex Olle of Barcelona’s La Fura dels Baus. Francesconi once said in an interview with The Guardian that his opera is a challenge to conventional ideas of opera, to western thinking and to relationships. “This piece is violent, it’s sex, it’s blasphemy, it’s the absence of mercy,” he said. The narrative is based on a book of the same name by Heiner Müller, which in turn is inspired by Les Liaisons Dangereuse. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.

ROME WORK IN PROGRESS CALDER/KENTRIDGE 10-15 Sept

Alexander Calder’s creations, made when he was in Rome in the 1960s, were the background for a commission

by the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma in 1968, set to the electronic music of Nicoló Castiglioni, Aldo Clementi and Bruno Maderna. They will now form the basis of the new “artistic composition” Waiting for the Sybil created by William Kentridge to the music of South African pianist Kyle Shepherd and the vocal arrangement of Nhlanhla Mahlangu. It is expected that Kentridge will use paper cutouts, collages and ink drawings as he did in his staging of Allan Berg’s Lulu in 2017. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Teatro Costanzi, 1 Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it.

DON GIOVANNI BY MOZART 27 Sept-6 Oct

The Teatro dell’Opera di Roma presents a new production of Mozart’s opera, conducted by Jérémie Rhorer and directed by Graham Vick. Don Giovanni completes Vick’s Mozart trilogy of Così fan tutte (2017) and Nozze di Figaro (2018). Rhorer is well known throughout Europe but this is his debut in Rome although he has conducted in several other Italian cities, as well as at the 2018 Spoleto and Ravello festivals. He has made a name for himself conducting Mozart’s operas but one of his first appearances in Italy was conducting the difficult Dialogues des Carmelites by Poulenc in Bologna last year. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Teatro Costanzi, 1 Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it.

QUARTETT BY LUCA FRANCESCONI 5-22 Oct

This opera by the Italian composer Luca Francesconi was commissioned by La Scala in 2011. It is written for

46 | September 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Luca Francesconi’s Quartett at La Scala in October.

Theatre SHAKESPEARE AT THE GLOBE 21 June-13 Oct

The 16th edition of the four-month festival devoted to Shakespeare takes place at the Silvano Globe Theatre in Villa Borghese. Once again under the artistic direction of popular Roman actor Gigi Proietti, the festival offers a packed programme of Italianlanguage productions, ending with a performance in English. The September programme continues with Riccardo III (1-15 Sept except Mondays), Edmund Kean (16, 23, 30 Sept), Giulio Cesare (20 Sept-6 Oct), ending with an English-language production of Romeo and Juliet by London’s Bedouin Shakespeare Company (8-13 Oct). There are also several poetic and musical projects including Sonetti D’Amore, Playing Shakespeare and William and Elizabeth, and Le tre streghe di Macbeth, a special production on Sundays aimed at kids aged 5-11. Rome’s Globe Theatre is a full-scale timber reproduction of Shakespeare’s Globe, copied from

Rome’s Globe Theatre stages Riccardo III.

the original oak and thatch designs, and almost identical to the one that stands on London’s South Bank. The festival attracts around 65,000 spectators each year, and all shows are in Italian with the exception of the final production. For programme and ticket details see Globe website. Largo Acqua Felix, Villa Borghese, www. globetheatreroma.com.

SHORT THEATRE 5-14 Sept

Now in its 14th year, this daring initiative is born of a collaboration between festivals, embassies and cultural institutes, and is supported by regional authorities. The theatrical festival comprise

ACADEMIES 24 May-20 Sept

book’s influence on Italian literature. Casa di Goethe, Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www.casadigoethe.it.

SPANISH ACADEMY IN ROME 20 June-16 Oct

ROME’S COMEDY CLUB 27 Sept

Rome’s Comedy Club returns after the summer with its tenth season and 85th show. The €15 entrance fee includes aperitivo, a beer or glass of wine. Doors open at 20.00, with the show starting at 21.30. Bookings (by text only, no calls) via Whatsapp 3397514140 or email makairoma@ gmail.com. Makai Surf and Tiki bar, Via dei Magazzini Generali, 4/a/b/c.

Processo 146 at Real Academia de España en Roma. Storywalker Garbatella by Fernando Sanchez.

CASA DI GOETHE The Casa di Geothe presents an exhibition dedicated to The Sorrows of Young Werther, a loosely autobiographical novel by Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, first published in 1774. Written in a matter of weeks, the story was inspired by Goethe’s unrequited love for Charlotte Buff. The book turned the 24-year-old writer into an overnight literary celebrity and prompted the youth of the day to dress like Werther – blue tailcoat and canary yellow waistcoat. The Rome exhibition, curated by museum director Maria Gazzetti, tells the publishing story of the German novel through editions and illustrations from German museums and libraries, as well as examining the

avant-garde theatre, dance, music, performance, prose, dj sets and workshops, but details were unavailable at the time of going to press. For programme see website, www.shorttheatre.org.

The Spanish Academy Rome presents

Processi 146, an exhibition of projects and works created by the academy’s Spanish, Italian and Latin American artists during their residency in the 2018/2019 season. This year’s 23 resident artists, winners of the annual competition overseen by Spain’s foreign ministry, were tasked with creating a project dedicated to Italy and in particular to Rome, from classical to contemporary. Visitors can enjoy paintings, art history, multimedia art, photography, performance and literature. The exhibition also offers the opportunity to visit the Real Academia de España, which is normally closed to the public and which currently celebrates its 146th year in Rome. Real Academia de España in Rome, Piazza S. Pietro in Montorio 3, www. accademiaspagna.org.

Wanted in Rome • September 2019 | 47

lassical lassical

The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a definitive list of all the music that is available in the city. The following is a list of the main musical There are also concerts in many of the associations in Rome but it is not a definitive churches and sometimes in the museums. list of all the music that is available in the city. There are also concerts in many of the Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della churches and sometimes in the museums. Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Auditorium Conciliazione, ViaP. de della Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Accademia Filarmonica Teatro Auditorium Parco della Romana, Musica, Viale P. de Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro starts on 15 Oct Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season concerts Parco della Musica. The startsat onAuditorium 15 Oct newAccademia season startsS. on 5Cecilia, Oct www.santacecilia.it. All

concerts Universitaria at Auditorium Parco della Musica. Istituzione dei Concerti, AulaThe newUniversità season starts on 5 Oct www.concertiiuc.it Magna, la Sapienza,

Istituzione Universitaria deiGonfalone Concerti,32a, Aula Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it www.oratoriogonfalone.com Oratorio delMethodist Gonfalone, Via delPiazza Gonfalone 32a, RomeConcerts, Church, Ponte www.oratoriogonfalone.com S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it RomeConcerts, Piazza Ponte Roma Sinfonietta, Methodist AuditoriumChurch, Ennio Morricone, S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Roma Auditorium Roma Tre Sinfonietta, Orchestra, some concertsEnnio are atMorricone, Teatro Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others at Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are are at Teatro the Aula Magna, Piazza Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, 8, Palladium, Bartolomeo Romano Universita Roma Tre, Via while Ostienze teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, others234, are at www.r30.org the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Tre,festivals Via Ostienze 234, There are oftenRoma concerts, and opera www.r30.org recitals in several churches in Rome.

often concerts, festivals and153, opera All There Saints' are Anglican Church, Via Babuino recitals in several churches in Rome. www.allsaintsrome.org All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. www.allsaintsrome.org Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7 Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com

Oratorio del Caravita, Caravita St Paul's Within the Walls,Via Viadella Nazionale and7 the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the S. Agnese Sagrestia del Borromini, corner ofin ViaAgone, Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it Piazza Navona S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Palazzo PiazzaDoria NavonaPamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum Serenades by Night Dinner throughout and Opera dinner afterwards. Viawith del Corso 305, the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum www.doriapamphilj.com and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com Jan 2019 • Wanted in Rome 5048 |48 Oct 2018 • Wanted Rome | |September 2019 •inWanted in Rome

MUSIC MUSIC THEATR THEATRE CINEMA CINEMA VENUES VENUES

MUSIC THEATRE CINEMA DANCE OPERA

inema inema

The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wantedshow in Rome website for The following cinemas movies in English weekly updates. or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for Adriano, Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 weeklyPiazza updates. Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 0686391361 Barberini, Piazza BarberiniMastroianni 24-26, 1, tel. Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello 0686391361 tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it 068553485 Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 068553485 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 066861068 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 066861068 Odeon, Piazza Stefano 22, tel. Nuovo Sacher, LargoJacini Ascianghi 1, 0686391361 tel. 065818116

Space Moderno, Piazza della 44, tel. Odeon, Piazza Stefano JaciniRepubblica 22, tel. 0686391361 06892111 Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebec06892111 chini 3-5, tel. 06892111 Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111

RO MA

Wanted in Rome | December 2017

ddance oopera p pop r ock r ance

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

pera

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

ock

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Atlantico, Viale Atlantico Auditorium Parcodell’Oceano della Musica, Viale 271d, P. de tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com Auditorium della Viale de Casa del Jazz, Parco Viale di PortaMusica, Ardeatina 55,P.tel. Coubertin,www.casajazz.it tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com 06704731,

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

heatre heatre

Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com Lanificio 159,ViaVia di Pietralata 159, Live Alcazar, Cardinale Merry del Valtel. 14, 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com Live Alcazar, Merry del 35, Val 14, Monk Club, Via ViaCardinale Giuseppe Mirri tel. tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com 0664850987, www.monkroma.it Monk Club, ViaPiazzale Giuseppe Mirri 35,1, tel. PalaLottomatica, dello Sport tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it PalaLottomatica, Piazzale Sport 1, tel. Rock in Roma, Via Appiadello Nuova 1245, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it www.teatrosangenesio.it Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsiwww.teatrosangenesio.it stina.it Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.ilsistina.it www.teatrovascello.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Vittoria,www.teatrovascello.it Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. tel. 065898031, 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it 51 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome

File 2019 wanted in rome press e magazine APR19.pdf 10 17/06/2019 11:19:54

24h HEALTH SERVICES

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WANTED junior inROME Work by students of St Stephen's School

Leaf by Seungyeon Nam, Grade 12, Age 17.

Prizes and publications are excellent outcomes for one’s writing, but Moira Egan, Creative Writing teacher at St Stephen’s School, always emphasises that the writing process is the most important part of all. Life-long learners so often begin as enthusiastic and dedicated high school writers. Highlights of last year’s processes included a “back-and-forth ekphrastic collaboration”

Laura Rizzo, Grade 12, Age 17 Green LED lights spread; Like paintbrushes used Air for a canvas, And the dampened sound of electro music Floods the room bit by bit Until it’s brimful of noise; But it’s solid; a noise brick. The green’s a wall; still. How could anyone could stand in it? Locked in green rays They look like thick paint, The kind that sparks the fear that it might be coarse And not smooth In all its beauty and its shine and its density; That it might smell of acrylic, And be cold and dry in the clean way It cleaves through space. (Inspired by Seungyeon Nam’s “Leaf”)

52 | September 2019 • Wanted in Rome

with Liana Miuccio’s Digital Photography class, two examples of which appear here, as well as ongoing work with “literary synæsthesia.” We’re certain you’ll enjoy this student work — and Ms Egan and the Creative Writing students are looking forward to further great literary adventures in school year 20192020!

Aaron Seibert, Grade 11, Age 16 (Visiting Student, Spring 2019) They arrive in groups of twos and threes Interrupting a scene of farewell As stragglers from a previous class Hustle out clutching papers Not just average crumpled notes, but poems They always show up late One crunches into an apple Another lays into a bag of chips While a third wipes sleep from their eyes Snacks and sleep are essential to poetry They arrange themselves in the usual order The usual suspects side by side Grinning and synchronizing Wandering off on tangents But somehow always returning to poetry She calls us to attention With an anecdote or a lesson We listen, as we’re transported Into a life of celebrity encounters And heart-shaped rocks Visits to castles And bags full of M&M’s We go around sharing poems Making thoughtful comments Drawing purple squiggles And smiley faces Cramming line after line Of praise and of help At the end of the day we walk out Having done something amazing

Gotten closer together And learned something new Poetry, having brought us together (forever). Daniela Rosales Perez, Grade 11, Age 16 Dear ____, Let’s open sail to the young trust, Swimming on desire. Let’s make ourselves the universe, Where your arctic touch becomes the sea breeze. Let’s write windowed poetry, Where time is frantically steamed. But we will never. Because of the fox-gloved man you have become, And because of the loneliness prose you say, “Dreams are just ashes and dust of delusion.” We were a summer tide, Now we are a flooding lighting blooming. Sincerely, ___.

Life Paint starts to harden The toxic fumes fade Suns of Summer Rains of Autumn Snows of Winter Seedings of Spring Carving little holes in the paint The yellow line, ever so slowly disintegrating Death The ground, fertile, wanting roots to implant themselves A seed falls from the sky Wiggles itself underground, and implants its roots In the dark, rich, cool soil Blades of grass grow, cutting the yellow line to bits Invisible in the thicket of grass The whole meadow coated in a thick layer of green Back to its natural state C’est la vie (Inspired by Seungyeon Nam’s “Yellow Line”)

The Suave Dance Helèna Bofisé, Grade 11, Age 16 Within the ballroom in Blois, France, Sitting with a royal stance, Her hands joined in a suave dance. As they caressed the sweet instrument, Her heart and soul left her body in content And she returned to the land of the innocent. As she voyaged through her mythical land, She finally began to understand, That without a sweet lullaby, the world was oh, so bland! So she continued to fly within her dream, Hoping she would never lose her chance to redeem Herself from a world without trance. Natalie Silver, Grade 10, Age 15 Plus ça change, plus c’est la même chose Birth The bristles of that thick paintbrush loaded with dark yellow paint Flicking specks of dirt and paint everywhere Little ants squealing in pain as their tiny bodies Are being covered by the thick, hardening paste, Their lives, slowly disappearing as their little lungs are being crushed, Making it harder and harder to breathe

Yellow Line by Seungyeon Nam, Grade 12, Age 17.

St Stephen’s, Via Aventina 3, tel. 065750605, www.sssrome.it.

WANTED IN ROME JUNIOR: For young writers and artists Wanted in Rome is accepting creative contributions from students in all international schools in Rome. Articles on topics related to either the student’s life in Rome or their school projects can be submitted by their class teachers. The work should be no more than 1,000 words and all contributions should contain the name, age and school of the students. We also accept illustrations. Any class teachers who would like to propose a project please contact editorial@wantedinrome.com.

Wanted in Rome • September 2019 | 53

Rome’s artart capital continues to to grow with newnew murals by important Italian and Rome'sreputation reputationasasananimportant importantstreet street capital continues grow with murals by important Italian international streetstreet artistsartists appearing all the all time. the works located the suburbs, often far often from the and international appearing theMost time.ofMost of theare works are in located in the suburbs, far centre. Here is where to is find Rome’s mainthe street artstreet projects murals. from the centre. Here where to find main artand projects and murals around Rome. Esquilino Esquilino Murals Murals byby Alice Alice Pasquini, Pasquini, Gio Gio Pistone, Nicola Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Alessandrini, Diamond. Diamond. Casa Casa dell’Architettura, dell'Architettura, Piazza Fanti 47. PiazzaMafredo Manfredo Fanti 47. Marconi Marconi The The M.A.G.R. M.A.G.R. (Museo (Museo Abusivo Abusivo Gestito Gestitodai daiRom), Rom),a aproject projectby byFrench French street artistSeth Seth is located in a street artist is located in a former former soap factory Via Antonio soap factory on Viaon Antonio AvogaAvogadro, opposite dro, opposite Ostiense'sOstiense’s landmark landmark Gasometro. details see Gasometro. For For details see www.999contemporary.com. www.999contemporary.com. Museodell’Altro dell’Altroe edell’Altrove dell’Altrovedidi Museo Metropoliz Metropoliz This former former meat meat factory factory inin the the This outskirts of of Rome art outskirts Rome isis now nowa astreet street museum being home hometoto art museumasaswell well as as being some200 200squatting squatters,migrants. many of The them some migrants. The Museo dell’Altrodi e Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove dell’Altroveor diMAAM, Metropoliz, or MAAM, Metropoliz, is only open only open Saturdays, and onis Saturdays, andon features the work the work of moreincluding than 300 offeatures more than 300 artists artists including Gio Edoardo Kobra,Edoardo Gio Kobra, Pistone, Pistone, Sten&Lex Diamond.and See Sten&Lex, Pablo and Echaurren MAAM Facebook page for details. Borondo. See MAAM Facebook page Via Prenestina 913. for details. Via Prenestina 913. Ostiense

Ostiense Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Porto Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Fluviale. Porto Fluviale. Fish’n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via Fish’n’Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale. del Porto Fluviale. Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali. Magazzini Generali. Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense Via Ostiense. underpass, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense. Pigneto Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Pigneto Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71. Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.

54 | September 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Via Via Fanfulla Fanfulla da da Lodi. Lodi. 2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio. Fortebraccio. 2501 mural on Via Blu by Sten Blu Landscape Landscape by Sten & & Lex. Lex. Via Via Francesco Baracca. Francesco Baracca. Prati Prati Anna Magnaniportrait portrait by Diavù. Anna Magnani by Diavù. Nuovo Nuovo MercatoViaTrionfale, Via Mercato Trionfale, Andrea Doria. Andrea Doria. theSabotino. bear by Daniza the bear byDaniza ROA. Via ROA. Via Sabotino. Primavalle Primavalle The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via Cristoforo Numai. Cristoforo Numai. Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Theseus stabbing the Bembo. Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo. Quadraro Quadraro Tunnel murals by Mr THOMS and Gio Tunnel byMure. Mr THOMS and Pistone. murals Via Decio Gio Decio Mure. Via del NidoPistone. di Vespe Via by Lucamaleonte. Nido didel Vespe by Lucamaleonte. Via Monte Grano. del Monte Baby Hulkdel byGrano. Ron English. Via dei Baby PisoniHulk 89. by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89. Rebibbia Rebibbia Murals by Blu. Via Ciciliano and Via Murals by Blu. Via Palombini (Casal dèCiciliano Pazzi). and Via Palombini dè Pazzi). Welcome to(Casal Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Metro B station. Metro B station. S. Basilio S.SanBa Basilio features large-scale works on SanBa features large-scale works the façades of social-housing blockson in the of social-housing blocks the façades disadvantaged north-east suburb of in the disadvantaged north-east S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regenerasuburb of S.includes Basilio works near Rebibbia. tion project by Italian The project artistsregeneration Agostino Iacurci, Hitnesincludes and Blu works by Spain's ItalianLiqen. artistsViaAgostino alongside Maiolati, Iacurci, Hitnes and BluVia alongside Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Arcevia, Spain’s Via Treia.Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, Via Treia. S. Giovanni Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via S.Apulia Giovanni corner of Via Farsalo. Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.

It’s aa New NewDay Daybyby Alice Pasquini. It’s Alice Pasquini. Via Via Anton Ludovico. Anton Ludovico. S. Lorenzo Lorenzo S. AlicePasquini. Pasquini. ViaSabelli. dei Sabelli. Alice Via dei Feminicidemural mural Elisa Feminicide by Elisaby Caracciolo. Caracciolo. Via Dei Sardi.Via Dei Sardi. Borondo. Via Viadei deiVolsci Volsci159. 159. Borondo. Mural by by Agostino AgostinoIacurci Iacurci on Mural on the the Istituto Superiore di Lattanzio, Vittorio Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia. Via Aquilonia. Pietro S. Pietro UmaCabra Cabra Bordalo II. Stazione Uma byby Bordalo II. Stazione di S. Pietro, di Monte di S. Clivo Pietro, Clivo del di Gallo. Monte del Gallo. Testaccio Hunted Wolf by ROA. Via Galvani. Testaccio #KindComments AliceVia Pasquini, Via Hunted Wolf bybyROA. Galvani. Volta, Testaccio market. #KindComments by Alice Pasquini, Via Volta, Testaccio market. Tor Pignattara Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta. Tor Pignattara Etnik. Via Bartolomeo Perestrello 51. Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta. Coffee Etam Cru. Via Ludovico Etnik.Break ViabyBartolomeo Perestrello Pavoni. 51. Coﬀee Break by Etam Cru. Via Tom SawyerPavoni. by Jef Aerosol. Via Gabrio Ludovico Serbelloni. Tom Sawyer by Jef Aerosol. Via Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema Gabrio Serbelloni. Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Galeazzo Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Alessi. Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Herakut. Via Capua 14. Galeazzo Alessi. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Herakut. Via Capua 14. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Tor Marancia The Big City Life scheme features 14-m Tormurals Marancia tall by 22 Italian and internaThe Big City artists Life scheme features tional street including Mr 14-m tall by Jerico. 22 Italian and Klevra, Seth,murals Gaia and The idea international street was to transform theartists area's including blocks of Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia and Jerico. flats into an open-air art museum. Via TheMarancia. idea was to transform the area’s Tor www.bigcity.life.it. blocks of ﬂats into an open-air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. For full details see website, www.bigcity.life.it.

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth. Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

Wanted in Rome â&#x20AC;¢ September 2019 | 55

MAXXI Museo nazionale delle arti del XXI secolo via Guido Reni, 4A - Roma | www.maxxi.art

orski

ag By Kate Z

POLLO ALLA ROMANA A homecooked classic, this Roman-style chicken is a wonderful summer recipe which makes the most of the season’s bright, plump, bell peppers. Tender pieces of chicken are slowly cooked with tomato, peppers and onion until the meat is falling off the bone and the sauce becomes succulent, sweet and sticky. A true crowd-pleaser, in Rome it is commonly served for lunch on the Ferragosto holiday on 15 August. The recipe is in itself very simple and just requires a little time to prepare the peppers and let the ingredients work their magic. Although the dish can be served piping hot, it is just as satisfying when left to rest until room-temperature and should be served with plenty of bread to mop up the mouth-watering juices. Just make sure you have enough leftovers to pack into a sandwich the next day.

Ingredients 1 chicken, cut into pieces 4 red and yellow peppers 1 onion, roughly sliced 1 clove of garlic, peeled 500ml tomato passata 1 small bunch of fresh basil ½ glass white wine ½ glass extra virgin olive oil Salt Pepper To begin, preheat the oven to 200°C. Place the whole peppers on a baking tray, drizzle them lightly with oil and cook for 15 minutes until the skin starts to blister. Remove the peppers and, while still hot, put them into a plastic bag, tie the top and leave for 1 hour. Then remove the skins, slice into 1cm strips and put to one side. Meanwhile, heat the rest of the oil in a large saucepan and gently fry the garlic clove until it starts to turn golden, then add the pieces of chicken and season with salt and pepper. Fry the chicken until the skin has browned and then add the onion. Cook for 5 minutes before pouring in the white wine. After a couple of minutes, once the alcohol has evaporated, add the tomato passata and the fresh basil leaves, check the seasoning, adding more salt if required. Turn down the heat, cover the pan with a lid and cook for 45 minutes, stirring occasionally. If the sauce becomes too dry add a little water to loosen it up. Add the sliced, peeled peppers, stir and then cook for a further 15 minutes before serving.

Indirizzi

Terrazza S. Pancrazio, Via di Po Osteria delle Coppelle Roma,

Pianostrada Rome, Via delle Z Trattoria da Teo Roma, Piazza

Marzapane al Caffè dell’Ope

58 | September 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Eating outside in Rome: the ten best restaurants with terraces and gardens Our favourite restaurants and trattorie with terraces and gardens, where you can eat outdoors in Rome during the warmer months. GIANICOLO – A COOL HANGOUT Yugo a S. Pancrazio Different plates of fusion cuisine are served on the S. Pancrazio terrace, a little north of Trastevere. With a menu curated by award-winning chef Anthony Genovese, here you can tuck into raw dishes, carpacci, tartare and ceviche, which are all accompanied by refreshing cocktails. IN THE CENTRE – A TRENDY NIGHT OUT Osteria delle Coppelle Lunch or dinner of traditional but creative first and second courses. There’s saltimbocca alla romana with speck and fried sage, and you can also choose between pizza, bruschette, home made pastries (€6) or a huge salad (from €9 to €12), with the option to eat outside in the piazza. TRASTEVERE – A GOURMET MEAL Pianostrada An elegantly styled restaurant with a lovely courtyard-garden, a great long bar and an exposed kitchen. You can try anything from fried antipasti (€10-13.50), salads, gourmet panini (€12.50-14.50), and excellent bread that’s made in house. We loved the artichokes alla giudìa, and the fig and sun dried tomato focaccia. Mon closed. TRASTEVERE – FOR ROMAN CUISINE Trattoria da Teo Serving traditional Roman cuisine, such as excellent amatriciana, broccoli and skate soup, coda alla vaccinara, roast lamb, or even a fresh plate of fish. There are ten tables inside and a beautiful veranda in the piazza. The amatriciana costs €9 while a single courgette flower (which are absolutely excellent) costs €1.50. Sun closed. CENTRE – A GOURMET MEAL Marzapane all’Opera The menu at Marzapane is an array of traditional Italian dishes made with fresh ingredients and is particularly fish-focused. We enjoyed the tomato bread with jamon from Bellota (€13), insalata di lingua (salad with tongue) seasoned with turmeric, capers and mustard, mezze maniche pasta with amatriciana sauce (€19). Mon closed.

MONTI – GOURMET PIZZA AND CEVICHE Madre With a beautiful outdoor space, Madre is one of the coolest hangouts in Monti. Gourmet pizza and ceviche (€18) are the most popular dishes and they are indeed delicious. However prices are quite a bit higher than average – a Margherita with buffalo mozzarella costs €15, while La Roja, with prawns and smoked buffalo mozzarella, costs €26. AVENTINO – A GOURMET MEAL The Corner Marco Martini At this award-winning restaurant and cocktail bar created by Marco Martini, you can dine in the beautiful terraced garden with a Liberty-style decor and sit yourself down on one of the couches or sink into an armchair. For lunch it is possible to order from one to three dishes costing between €10, €18 and €25; while for dinner there are different tasting menus costing from €95 to €200. GARBATELLA – FOR ROMAN CUISINE Ristoro degli Angeli All ingredients come from the local Garbatella market and the menu boasts quite a few vegetarian recipes. For the first course there’s the focaccina with lard (made from organic Tuscan pork) for €8 while for your second course, try the rolled rhombus fish filled with ginger-seasoned vegetables (€20). Sun closed. IN THE CENTRE – A GOURMET MEAL Osteria Siciliana This little piece of Sicily seats around 60 people, half indoors and the rest outside. You could begin with stuffed artichokes (€13), vegetable caponata (€12), or sardines alla beccafico (€15). For your first course we recommend spaghetti with salted tuna and Sicilian lemon peel (€20) or lobster soup with spaghetti (€26). TESTACCIO – FOR ROMAN CUISINE Flavio al Velavevodetto Great cooking and a very pleasant atmosphere, with both an internal courtyard and a stunning terrace for eating outside. Fish is served on Tuesdays and Fridays, gnocchi on Thursdays, and roast lamb on Saturdays. Try the handmade pasta alla gricia, amatriciana and carbonara (€9) or the meatballs in sauce (€12).

www.puntarellarossa.it

Porta S. Pancrazio 32. Piazza delle Coppelle 54, tel. 0645502826.

Zoccolette 22, tel. 0689572296. dei Ponziani 7, tel. 065818355.

era Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 7, tel. 0648160504.

Madre Roma, Largo Angelicum 1, tel. 066789046. The Corner Marco Martini, Viale Aventino 121, tel. 0645597350. Ristoro degli Angeli Roma, Via Luigi Orlando 2, tel. 0651436020. Osteria Siciliana Rome, Via del Leoncino 28, tel. 0668805283. Flavio al Velavevodetto, Via di Monte Testaccio 97, tel. 065744194. Wanted in Rome • September 2019 | 59

Tate: Bequeathed by Simon Sainsbury 2006, accessioned 2008 © Lucian Freud archive / Bridgeman images. Photo: © Tate, London 2019. Lucian Freud / Boy Smoking

opere della

CHIOSTRO DEL BRAMANTE 26 settembre 2019 23 febbraio 2020

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I B WO R L D S C H O O L

Inspiring Global Citizens. romeinternationalschool.it +39 06 844 82 651

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Associations American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com Daughters of the American Revolution Pax Romana Chapter NSDAR paxromana@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com

International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490, www.iwcofrome.it Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 3338466820 Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Woman’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com

Books The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified. Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 Anglo American Bookshop Via delle Vite 102, tel. 066795222 Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it

Religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881 Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish)

62 | September 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484 Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com Otherwise Via del Governo Vecchio, tel. 066879825, www.otherwisebookshop.com St Patrick’s English-Language Lending Library Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 0688818727, Sun 10.00-12.30, Tues 10.00-14.00, Wed 15.00-18.00, Thurs 11.00-15.30 Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 3332284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday Service 10.30

Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei SS. Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Roma Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic) Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00

Support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.info Archè (HIV+children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/06582045580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 3381675680

Transport • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157066645-064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it

St Isidore College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic), Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827, www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri” Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022

Chiamaroma 24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Emergency numbers • • • • • • •

Ambulance tel. 118 Carabinieri tel. 112 Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 Fire brigade tel. 115 Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 Police tel. 113 Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355 Wanted in Rome • September 2019 | 63

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Your Passport to Worldclass Healthcare Campus Bio-Medico University Hospital of Rome provides: • Coordination of Hospital, physician and diagnostic appointments • Free of charge translation services for all the procedures • 12 hours medical services, including air ambulance transfer coordination • Partnership with major International Insurance Companies • Elevated International Standard and sole General Hospital JCI Accredited in Rome Whether you are a patient, family member or friend feel free to contact us at: Hospitaly - International Patients Program Officer Via Álvaro del Portillo, 200 - Rome (Italy) mail: info@hospitaly.it - phone: 0039.06.22541.8852 WWW.HOSPITALY.IT

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