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CONT

4. THE CHANGING

LANDSCAPE OF ROME’S art museums Andy devane

9. ANCIENT ROME’S

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MISCELLANY

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Abdoulaye Konatè, Calao, 2016 (detail) Courtesy Primo Marella Gallery credits Francesca Fattori. From African Metropolis: An Imaginary City at MAXXI Museo Nazionale Delle Arti XXI Secolo from 22 June-21 Oct. See page 31 for details. Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 9, Numero 4

ENTS 9

ANCIENT ROMEâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S FIRST FIRE SERVICE

43 THEATRE

BEACHES

31 EXHIBITIONS

Art

THE CHANGING LANDSCAPE OF ROME’S ART MUSEUMS ROME INAUGURATES NEW ART SPACES AND REORGANISES EXISTING MUSEUMS

n mid-May a gleaming new art museum opened at Rome’s long-abandoned health offices on Via Merulana, following a €5 million restoration project by entrepreneur Claudio Cerasi of the Roman construction firm. In addition to funding the three-year renovation of the city-owned building, Cerasi filled Palazzo Merulana with the important early 20th-century art collection that he had assembled privately with his wife, Elena. Under an 88-year lease, the public-private venture entrusted the management of the museum to Coopculture, Italy’s largest cooperative in the heritage and cultural activities sector. It is clear that Cerasi spared no expense in refurbishing the four-storey palazzo, which was built in 1929 and several sections of which had been lying in disrepair for 60 years. The Cerasi collection comprises 90 works by Italian artists – much of it dating from between the two world wars – including paintings from the Scuola Romana movement. The collection is displayed across 1,800 sqm of exhibition space and includes works by Balla, Cambellotti, Casorati, de Chirico, Donghi, Mafai, Pirandello, Schifano and Severini. The museum’s top floor is reserved for cultural events and press conferences such as the launch of the recent Monti Arte Design festival. Collaboration with Rome’s artistic scene, particularly with cultural associations in the nearby multi-ethnic Esquilino area, is 4 | July-August 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Andy Devane a central focus of Palazzo Merulana, which will act as a hub for theatre, cinema and music in addition to visual art. Its €4 entry fee and central location – a ten-minute walk from the Colosseum and served well by public transport – make it an even more welcome addition to the capital’s museum circuit. Palazzo Merulana opened six months after the closure of the once nearby Oriental Museum, which moved to the Museo delle Civiltà, formerly known as the Museo preistorico etnografico Luigi Pigorini, in Rome’s southern EUR suburb. The ministry’s decision to move the Oriental Museum centred mainly on the fact that its former 3,000-sqm base in the privately-owned Palazzo Brancaccio was no longer large enough to house its 40,000 artefacts, and that it would have an additional 7,000 sqm of space at Museo della Civiltà. Later in May the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Antica in Palazzo Barberini, under the Beni Culturali, also had a pleasant surprise in store, opening 11 new rooms to the public after museum management came to an agreement with the Italian military officers’ club, which had occupied the space for decades. The opening of the rooms brought to an end a long-running saga dating back to 1949 when the state purchased the palace. The new rooms are currently hosting Eco e Narciso, an exhibition of ancient and modern portraits and self-portraits from the collections of Palazzo Barberini and Rome’s MAXXI Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI secolo.

Art Along with 21 works by major names such as Holbein – Portrait of Henry VIII – and Raphael – La Fornarina – the exhibition features 17 pieces by prominent contemporary American artists Richard Serra and Kiki Smith, as well as Italians Luigi Ontani and Giulio Paolini. Speaking at the press conference to launch the new 750-sqm spaces, Palazzo Barberini director Flaminia Gennari Santori hailed the intervention of Italy’s previous ministers for culture and defence, Dario Franceschini and Roberta Pinotti respectively, in resolving the dispute with the military. She was joined by MAXXI president and former Italian culture minister Giovanna Melandri, who acknowledged that successive culture ministers – herself included – had tried and failed to settle the affair. The itinerary of the new rooms has another important novelty. On their way out, visitors now descend Borromini’s helicoidal staircase serving the southern wing of the 17th-century palace. Until now the Baroque architectural masterpiece was not accessible to the public. Eco e Narciso remains open until the end of October, after which the exhibition spaces will house the permanent art collection of Palazzo Barberini. Other changes in Rome’s museum administration have been bedded in successfully over the last couple of years. Palazzo Braschi, the city museum overlooking Piazza Navona, has cemented its prominent role in the capital’s cultural scene and is now the largest municipal art space in central Rome. This follows the opening of its temporary exhibition spaces on the first floor in late 2016, celebrated at the time with a blockbuster show dedicated to Artemisia Gentileschi. The museum’s elevated function coincided with the transfer of management of the Scuderie del Quirinale from the city to the Italian culture ministry. In terms of its exhibition programme, Palazzo Braschi now finds itself on a similar footing with the Scuderie, which traditionally would have hosted major shows such as Gentileschi, as well as the current Canaletto exhibition (see review page 35). Likewise the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna or GNAM, under the Beni Culturali,

Portrait of Claudio and Elena Cerasi at Palazzo Merulana by Bernardo Siciliano.

has undergone a radical shake-up since 2016, both in terms of its exhibition spaces and programming. The new approach has been broadly welcomed. However, last year’s online beauty pageant, which involved voting for “Miss and Mister Galleria Nazionale” from 70 portraits in the gallery’s collection, raised more than a few eyebrows in the Italian art world.

Looking to the future, a significant change is expected this autumn at MACRO, the city’s Museo d’Arte Contemporanea di Roma on Via Nizza, which will bypass its temporary exhibition programme to house Asilo, an experimental collective project. Asilo will give contemporary Italian and international artists space to work, perform and interact with the public, with a daily programme of art events. From October until the end of 2019, MACRO will not host any temporary exhibitions and will be open free to the public, thanks to an investment of €800,000 from the city. Asilo was announced days before Christmas when Giorgio De Finis, the “director-squatter” of the Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz (MAAM), an informal street art museum in Rome’s Prenestino suburb, was appointed artistic curator of the project by his old school-friend Luca Bergamo, the city’s deputy mayor and culture councillor. 5 | July-August 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Art Bergamo clarified that De Finis would not be the new permanent director of MACRO, a role which would have required a public tender. However given the fact that Asilo will be the museum’s sole activity for 15 months, De Finis is viewed as the de facto director of MACRO, which has been directorless (some would say directionless) since Federica Pirani’s contract expired two years ago.

owners of the Flaminio barracks building, the Italian investment bank Cassa Depositi e Prestiti (CDP), failed to renew the contract with Ninetynine Urban Value, the company which managed the 72,000-sqm space since 2016.

The MACRO network embodies two entities, both of which have recently come under the management of Azienda Speciale Palaexpo, a city-controlled body which manages Rome’s Palazzo delle Esposizioni and Casa del Jazz. The shake-up also involves the former MACRO Testaccio, which has assumed the name “Mattatoio” in reference to the building’s previous role as a slaughterhouse. Mattatoio is completely separate from MACRO in Via Nizza and is being steered towards a “performative” role in the city’s art programming, as illustrated by its recent hosting of Outdoor, the interactive festival of urban culture.

A question mark now hangs over two other similar temporary cultural venues in Rome, both owned by CDP, whose leases are up for renewal soon – the 23,000-sqm Ex-Dogana and the 11,000-sqm Palazzo degli Esami in Trastevere, which until recently had long lain idle. Popular with a young crowd, the multifaceted Ex-Dogana hosts concerts, festivals, workshops and contemporary art exhibitions, as well as acting as a night club. The smaller Palazzo degli Esami, whose title suggests its former function as a venue for civil service examinations, hosts widely accessible but light-weight exhibitions such as the Art of the Brick Lego show or interactive “experiences” such as Van Gogh Alive.

Previous editions of Outdoor were held at the Guido Reni District venue – a vast former barracks in Flaminio close to MAXXI, which closed on 1 May after two years of crowdpleasing exhibitions and festivals – as well as at the Ex-Dogana, once Rome’s customs house, in the S. Lorenzo neighbourhood. The

Regardless of their fate, nobody can deny that the last two years have been interesting and unpredictable for Rome’s ever-evolving exhibitions spaces, whose increased surface area is not always matched by the improved quality of the shows on display.

Le Ore by Luigi Ontani is displayed in the Salone Pietro Da Cortona at Palazzo Barberini.

6 | July-August 2018 • Wanted in Rome

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History

ANCIENT ROME’S FIRST FIRE SERVICE THE RUINED EXCUBITORIUM, AN ANCIENT BARRACKS FOR ROME’S FIRE BRIGADE, SERVES AS A MEMORIAL TO THE CITY’S FIRST RESPONDERS

Richard Hodges The atrium and fountain of the Excubitorium.

attract rats that scrabble brazenly over the cobblestones. The pavements are crumbling, the only clean sections are being swept by enterprising migrants who invite pedestrians to pitch a coin into soup bowls beside signs in crude cursive. Everyone knows Rome is in crisis. House prices are going up, visitors arrive in droves to occupy a spiralling number of Airbnb rooms, but civic life in this eternal city is visibly waning.

he trams rumbling along Viale Trastevere wake me. The bell announcing morning prayers at S. Crisogono tolls a little later. Ponte Garibaldi is visible from the terrace and roofs stretch away to the distant onion dome of S. Andrea della Valle. The Tiber is in flood far upstream, but not here, and so it lies way below its high, canalised embankment. This bucolic setting in Rome bids any viewer to think it’s eternal. Outside, though, not all is as it appears from the terrace. The never-ending piles of rubbish

Under my apartment block lies the ancient Roman fire-station – the Excubitorium - known as Corte VII. Although it is normally closed to the public, it is possible to get a permesso, and a kindly inspector from Rome’s superintendency will open it up. I cannot stress how worthwhile and thought-provoking these ruins are. Excavated in 1866 by Angelo Pellegrini on behalf of the Vatican, they remained open and uncurated until 1966. Sad to say, this 1966 roof is no longer trustworthy. Bits plunge into the excavated bowels of the fire station below, obliging us to only stand at the door and not enter. Still, it is an extraordinary sight if you let your imagination loose. Constant vigilance Ancient Rome’s fire service was set up by Augustus in 6 AD when the city’s population numbered an estimated million souls. The Excubutorium was the watch-house of the seventh cohort of the vigiles, the brigade that took care of the Transtiber (region XIV). The city’s brigade was composed of 3,920 men divided into seven cohorts of 560, each subdivided into seven centuries of 80 men. 9 | July-August 2018 • Wanted in Rome

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History Each cohort had responsibility for two regions, with a watch-house in each where the men kept their kit. The vigili were constantly on the lookout for fires and were authorised to break into property to stop one from spreading. The Corte VII building was a brick-built town house dating from the second century AD that was transformed into a fire station at the end of the century. From the steps of today’s ruins you look into a dark courtyard with a fountain in the centre. To the right is an elegant porticoed niche that for all the world looks like a door. In fact, it was for a shrine and faces a door on the left that leads into the two- or three-storey, multi-roomed fire-house. Benching followed the walls of the atrium. Red plaster once covered the benches and walls to conceal the brickwork, and, according to our guide, was vandalised by hundreds of graffiti made by the firemen as they whiled away their down-time. Descending into this now anonymous excavation, the extent and complexity of life in ancient Rome at its zenith is nothing less than awesome. Did firemen from here cross the Tiber to fight the great 80 AD fire in the Campus Martius, seat today of the Crypta Balbi, the museum dedicated to Rome’s final centuries and the immediately following period? Heading for “the Crypta”, as Italian archaeologists affectionately call it, my visit to the Excubitorium sets me thinking. I have recently been reading Kyle Harper’s Fate of Rome (2017), his spirited, provocative and well-written new book that almost, if not quite, attributes the decline of Rome to climatic conditions and the bubonic plague. In his faux thriller, Harper leads his readers smartly through Roman imperial history from Augustus to the seventh century. Cleverly, he inserts climatic change as a causal vector along the way. The fire-station under my apartment, it would now appear, was constructed during the Roman Climatic Optimum. Over this period the Mediterranean tessellation of micro climates enjoyed warm, wet and stable weather causing the Alpine glaciers to melt. The empire of Augustus and his immediate successors, according to Harper, was a fecund, giant

A view of the exedra of the Crypta Balbi today.

greenhouse. This was what historian Edward Gibbon famously described as the “happiest age”. There were adverse consequences for Rome’s metaphorical soul, such as the river Tiber regularly breaking its banks, most often in late summer halcyon days. Pliny the Younger describes furniture floating through the streets. The Optimum ended in the Antonine period, in the second century AD, with a smallpox plague. Catastrophic late summer floods that doubtless engulfed the firemen in the Excubitorium, the breeding ground of infectious diseases like bacillary dysentery and malaria, were eclipsed by a smallpox pandemic that carried away as many as 150,000 of Rome’s citizens in mid-to-late 166 AD. It was, writes Harper, “a pathogen bomb”. Rome’s apocalypse? Rome and its empire bounced back, of course. But by the fifth century civic management was in poor shape and probably led to the desertion of the Excubitorium. Worse followed, as Harper colourfully describes. Climatic change ushered in the Late Antique Little Ice Age, a period in the sixth to seventh centuries of cooling and winter storms causing extreme flooding in the capital, as well as colder climes. 11 | July-August 2018 • Wanted in Rome

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History a perfect storm seems to have extinguished Rome’s administrative classes. That is certainly the upshot of visiting the Crypta Balbi museum, close to the Largo Argentina where Julius Caesar met his end.

The reconstructed north porticus at Crypta Balbi.

As if this wasn’t bad enough, a pernicious disaster struck in the form of a promiscuous killer, Yersinia Pestis, carried by an oriental rat flea. The pest arrived from the Indian Ocean and first devastated the cities of the eastern Empire. In the midst of a war between the Ostrogoths and Byzantium, traders and mariners unwittingly transported the flea to Rome, and in 542 AD it decimated the eternal city. As Harper says, the Colosseum, which had been spruced up for games in 520 AD, could by 590 AD and the new pontificate of Gregory the Great have easily accommodated the city’s surviving 10-20,000 residents in the fabled arena. (The lugubrious Byzantine historian, Procopius, estimated the city’s population plunged to a pitiful 500 citizens.) As Pope Gregory balefully noted, “the end of the world is no longer just predicted, but is revealing itself.” How many firemen survived, one wonders?

Excavating an insula This discreet museum is a shrine for me. Here history was made by archaeologists who gave texture to Rome’s imperial twilight and its aftermath. The museum’s exhibitions date from the city’s bi-millennial celebrations, when the city last invested lavishly in its historical assets. At its heart is a celebrated dig, a vaunting and ambitious project by the sagacious and elfin Daniele Manacorda, then a professor at Siena University. Starting in 1982, Manacorda was already a veteran of many digs in Rome and around the Mediterranean. He had cut his teeth unearthing Roman monuments and houses, but rarely placed them in meaningful context. His dream, which he set before the bold superintendent of Rome antiquities Adriano La Regina, was to excavate an ancient insula – a city block – from the 19th century back to Etruscan times. La Regina encouraged him, and apart from his stirring discoveries, the young Manacorda trained a generation. The teams that dug here included many who went on to be professors in countless fields. All were touched by Manacorda’s vision as well as his kindly intellect. After more than a decade of gargantuan digs producing warehouses full of finds, it became abundantly clear that the dream was In the seventh century the exedra became home to a jewellers’ workshop as illustrated in this reconstruction by Studio Inklink.

Harper’s fateful view of Rome deserves our attention. There can be no doubt that the ancient metropolis was first and foremost a city of civil servants, full of institutions like the fire brigades. With no political will, afflicted by unrest and internecine political struggle to control it, as well as by the pernicious flea, and at a time of drastically unsettled weather, 13 | July-August 2018 • Wanted in Rome

History

A late-sixth-century child’s grave from the exedra of the Crypta Balbi.

both extraordinarily important and excessive. Important because the wealth of evidence for certain periods was unexpected, excessive because the city did not possess the funds to unearth more than a bite-sized section of the area once associated with the fabled patrician, Balbus. Lucius Cornelius Balbus was a Spaniard from Cadiz and a prominent member of Emperor Augustus’s inner circle. He acquired land in the Campus Martius to construct a theatre after his patron’s victory over Libya in 19 BC. Finished in 13 BC, it was opened while the Tiber was in flood. Behind the theatre lay a large, rectangular, enclosed building with a semi-circular exedra on its eastern side. Manacorda’s excavations, now splendidly published, discovered Etruscan phases and Republican buildings, as well as the steady evolution of Balbus’s monumental legacy after the great fire of 80 AD. Perhaps the most important discoveries were made in the phases after Constantine introduced Christianity as the state religion. The huge complex steadily fell into ruin, entertaining not only makeshift Late Antique workshops but also occasional graves before becoming a dumping ground for rubbish from the neighbouring monastery of S. Lorenzo in Pallacinis. Mounds of trash from the exedra attest to seventh-century jewellers making decent bling for Lombard gentry in the mountain valleys of central Italy. Small crosses, 14 | July-August 2018 • Wanted in Rome

late bronze coins and Sicilian amphorae as well as hand-made lamps attest to the decline into a twilight world that Kyle Harper signals in his book. Certain artisans showed admirable competency, while others descended to the pure primitive. The most eloquent testimony to Rome’s cultural nadir takes the form of its early eighth-century currency: crude, rectangular bronze alloy clippings of coins stamped with cartoon images of popes. Later, apart from the finest imperial statuary stacked brazenly for burning are fine levels associated with a ninth-century lime kiln, packed with the knick-knacks charting Rome’s quotidian revival in the ninth and tenth centuries: thick glazed pitchers, glassware and commonplace dress pins. The museum is a treasure-house dedicated to Rome’s fate and mediaeval revival. Framed within the ruins of Balbus’s imperial foundation, the myriad cases review the inexorable steps towards ruin. Traded Mediterranean amphorae and glasses provide abundant detail for commerce until the early seventh century. It is a bullish narrative of imperial continuity melding into the pontificates. No mention is made of seasonal Tiber flooding or pandemics, only of civil strife and Christian fortitude. Indeed, you might be forgiven for asking if the apocalypse is merely a post-modern fascination with the end of civilization.

History Glorious Christian crosses, polished ivories and, above all, frescoes from the surviving shrines constitute the heart of the exhibitions. Painted scenes from the Life of St Erasmus, or the fullfrontal frescoed image of a composed St Paul both taken from the mid-eighth century church of S. Maria in Via Lata (now Via del Corso) as well as the later eighth-century architrave from S. Adriano al Foro (made inside the Curia Iulia) with its faux imperial dedication by Pope Hadrian (772-795 AD), attempt to speak to Rome’s pilgrims as though they belonged to the city in Balbus’s times. Pinpricks of light For an evocative measure of the outcome of the perfect storm in the sixth century, stop and study the sequence of reconstruction pictures made in their heyday by Studio Inklink. Many excavations from Manacorda’s great investigations onwards have confirmed that the Carolingian guidebook to Rome’s churches, the Einsiedeln Itinerary, connected one church and its cults to another similar minuscule beacon through the thickets of stupendous ruins. This Swiss guide comprises eleven itineraries, ten of which meandered within the old walls, and mentions more than a hundred monuments and churches.

Unlike so many world capitals, Rome is obviously eternal thanks to its seamless sequence of kings, senators, emperors, popes, and mayors. Yet behind this continuity it was also an extraordinary barometer of sweeping moments when high waters, toxic fleas, and armed militants swept through the streets and caused havoc. Further reading: Kyle Harper, The Fate of Rome. Climate, Disease, & the End of an Empire, Princeton, 2017. Richard Hodges, an eminent archaeologist, is president of the American University of Rome and was director of the British School at Rome from 1988-1995. This article was originally published in Issue 89 of Current World Archaeology in May 2018.

Fresco of St Paul from S. Maria in Via Lata.

The Crypta Balbi museum is overshadowed in the centro storico by Rome’s great collections in the Capitoline, Domitian’s Baths, the Palazzo Massimo, and Trajan’s Markets. Its treasures belong to a world of turmoil rather than stasis and are an antipasto for visiting the churches that straddle Rome’s decline and mediaeval revival – breathtaking monuments like S. Clemente and S.S. Quattro Coronati. The Basilica of S. Crisogono across from my Trastevere apartment was on the ninth-century tourist trail listed in the Einsiedeln Itinerary. Returning over the high-embanked Tiber today, I feel for those foreign pilgrims in early mediaeval times visiting the “city of cities” and diligently wading through summer flood waters, slapping mosquitoes. Almost certainly they will not have realised that across the street from this shrine, now locked within the fabric of the 12th-century and baroque church you see today, once stood a fire station where vigili with an extraordinary regimen once served as Rome’s first responders. 15 | July-August 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Beaches TOP 10

BE ACHE S N E A R RO M E For all you beach-lovers here is a selection of resorts within easy reach of Rome. Each one, ordered from north to south, offers either stabilimenti (private beaches with entrance fees and changing facilities and refreshments) or spiaggia libera (free beach with the option to rent a lounge chair and/or umbrella), and all have children’s facilities. We have indicated how to get there by public transport, as all these towns suffer from heavy traffic during the summer.

Sabaudia

S. Marinella

S. MARINELLA

SABAUDIA

The northern-most beach on our list of-fers a small strip of white sandy beach with the choice of setting up camp at either the stabilimenti or spiaggia libera. There are two trains per hour leaving from Termini station for S. Marinella station and the journey takes about one hour. Popular with wind-surfers.

Famous for its beauty and spaciousness, this stretch of beach is another Blue Flag area. Although predominantly spiaggia libera, there are a few stabilimenti to choose from. Cotral buses run from Rome’s Laurentina metro stop (line B) to Piazza Oberdan in Sabaudia. From here take the shuttle bus which runs up and down the local coastline. Sabaudia is also known for its Mussolini-era architecture.

S. SEVERA Located about 50 km north of Rome and less than 10 km south of S. Marinella. Take one of the regular Civitavecchia trains from Rome and the beach is a ten-minute walk from the station. There are numerous stabilimenti, restaurants and spaggia libera.

FREGENE A former chic hotspot of the 1960s and 1970s, Fregene boasts long stretches of sand with both stabilimenti and spiaggia libera. Along the coast there is also a wide selection of family-oriented restaurants and less expensive tavole calde. Rome’s club scene tends to flock to Fregene and nearby Ostia (see below) in the summer months. Although Fregene isn’t the easiest place to reach by public transport, Cotral buses depart from Rome’s Valle Aurelia metro stop (line A) and the journey takes about one hour.

OSTIA/CANCELLI Ostia and the Cancelli (gates) are along the coast nearest Rome. Ostia is loaded with often pricey and trendy stabilimenti, while the Cancelli offer free beaches equipped with restaurants and bathrooms. Public transport takes less than an hour and you can use the same metro/bus tickets for public transport in Rome. Take the 070 express bus from EUR, or the Roma-Lido train from Porta S. Paolo beside the Piramide metro station (line B). To reach the Cancelli get off at the last stop and take the 07 MARE bus until you reach the gates numbered 1, 2, 3 etc.

ANZIO/NETTUNO These beaches are only ten minutes apart and are easily reached from Rome. One train per hour leaves from Termini station, stopping first at Anzio and then at Nettuno. The journey takes 60-70 minutes and the beaches are about a 10-minute walk from the respective train stations.

16 | July-August 2018 • Wanted in Rome

S. FELICE CIRCEO Nearly 100 km south of Rome are the Blue Flag beaches and crystal clear waters of Circeo. Stabilimenti abound but look for the spiaggia libera nearest the port: it definitely merits the mini-trek. Cotral buses leave for Circeo from the Laurentina metro station in Rome. Get off at the last stop and walk for ten minutes until you reach the beach.

TERRACINA Located just 10 km south of Circeo. From Termini station take the hourly regional train for Naples and get off at Monte S. Biagio. From there, take the bus for about 20 minutes until you reach the beach. Terracina has as many spiagge libere as stabilimenti and both are well-kept and clean, making it a popular destination for families.

SPERLONGA The stabilimenti dominate this gorgeous getaway with picturesque views and Blue Flag status, leaving only narrow strips for the spiaggia libera. Take the regional train headed to Naples from Termini station and get off at Fondi-Sperlonga. Once there, take the Piazzoli bus for 20 minutes to Sperlonga, alternatively take a private taxi but be warned they are far more expensive than the €1.50 bus ticket.

GAETA This Blue Flag area has a quaint mediaeval town to explore and clean beaches. From Termini station take one of the frequent trains headed towards Naples, get off at Formia and take the bus for another 25 minutes until you reach Gaeta. For more information about transportation consult the Cotral and Trenitalia websites www.cotralspa.it, www.trenitalia.it.

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Pools TOP 10

OU T DO O R P O O L S I N RO M E Come mid-summer in Rome, most of us are in need of the cool of an outdoor pool to relax by. But Rome isn’t awash with them and most are part of privately- owned swimming and sports clubs or upmarket hotels. Expect to pay upwards of €40 a day per person for entry to exquisitely chic surroundings at the top end of the spectrum, and at least €10 for for perfectly adequate but sometimes crowded and scruffy cheaper pools. We’ve picked ten of Rome’s best, from New York-style rooftop pools with to-die-for views over the city and a nice line in cocktails to family-friendly cheap and cheerful clubs. The € symbols represent ranking by price.

Piscina delle rose

Radisson SAS Hotel

1. ALDROVANDI PALACE

6. GRAND HOTEL GIANICOLO

Small and very select city-centre oasis, La Ranocchia (meaning “little frog”) is shaded by overhanging palms and huge cream parasols. Arrive early as space is limited around this pool. Daily rate Mon-Fri €55, Sat/Sun €60, Mon-Fri weekly pass €350. Via Ulisse Aldrovandi 15 (Parioli), tel. 063223993, www.aldrovandiresidence.it. €€€€

Part of a luxury hotel, this pool is located in elegant surroundings with palm trees and views of Trastevere from the Gianicolo hill. Lunch and dinner served at pool-side restaurant. 09.00-19.00, weekdays €25, weekend rate €35. Via delle Mura Gianicolensi 107 (Gianicolo), tel. 0658333405, www. grandhotelgianicolo.it. €€

2. BELLE ARTI

Think miles of water slides, wave machines, pools, shops, South-Pacific-style thatched bars, shops and a mini-club. Weekdays 09.30-18.30, weekends 09.30-19.30. Daily adult rate €24, kids €19. Half day rates €19/17. Casal Lumbroso 33 (Aurelio), tel. 0666183183, www.hydromania.it. €€

Well worth a mention for its fantastic cen-tral location tucked behind a church on Via Flaminia. A quiet atmosphere makes it good for those with very young chil-dren. Mon-Fri 07.00-21.00. €15. Sat 07.00-20.00. Sun 08.00-20.00. €25. Children aged 7-13 accompanied by adult pay €10 week day /15 weekend. Via Flaminia 158 (Flaminio), tel. 063226529, www.circolotennisbellearti.it. €€

3. CAVALIERI HILTON This Olympic-sized outdoor pool with a view is the crème de la crème of Rome’s pools if you like serious swimming. It’s large, luxurious and well worth the trip to Monte Mario. With a separate children’s pool. 08.00-19.00 daily (July weekdays €55, weekends €115. Aug weekdays €40, weekends €80. Sun lounger and towel included, half-price fees for children aged 6-11). Via Alberto Cadlolo 101 (Monte Mario), tel. 0635091, www. cavalieri-hilton.it. €€€€€

4. CIRCOLO VALENTINI Slightly shabby but friendly, family-run pool, used by locals. The adjoining restaurant will make up a lunchtime salad for around €4. 09.00-19.00 (weekdays €10, half-day €7, weekends €14/€10). Via della Marcigliana 597, corner Via Bufalot-ta (Talenti/Prati Fiscali), tel. 0687120207, www.circolovalentini.it. €

5. CLUB LANCIANI

7. HYDROMANIA

8. PISCINA DELLE ROSE Large pool perfect for families, swimming and canoeing lessons. Mon-Fri 09.00-21.00, weekends 09.00-19.00 (€16 per day, €14 half-day). Viale America 20 (EUR), tel. 065926717, www.piscinadellerose.it. €€

9. RADISSON SAS HOTEL Seriously smart and stunning heated rooftop swimming pool with sections for children and adults and poolside fine dining. 10.00-19.00 (adults €65 Mon-Fri, €90 Sat-Sun). Via Filippo Turati 171 (Esquilino), tel. 06444841, www.radisson-blu.com/eshotel-rome. €€€€

10. S.S.D. VITA Professional, outdoor swimming pool arranges lessons for children and adults and has tennis courts and a gym. Mon-Fri 07.00-21.30. €12 daily. Sat 07.00-20.00. Sun 08.00-20.00. €15 daily rate weekend. Children aged 10 upwards pay adult rate. Kids aged 5-10 €8, kids under 5 free. Via del Fontanile Arenato 66 (Aurelio), tel. 066634202, www.vitaclub.it. €

A large tennis club with an outdoor pool offering lessons, free swimming and a children’s summer school. Weekdays 09.30-18.30, weekends 09.30-19.30. Adults €10.50/15, kids €7.50/11. Via di Pietralata 135 (Tiburtino), tel. 064181401, www.edenuoto.it. €€

19 | July-August 2018 • Wanted in Rome

to do

Sun Mon Tue Wed 3

Visit the beautiful Chiostro del Bramante to see the Turner: Works from Tate exhibit. WiR cardholders receive a €2 discount.

Head to the Basilica of Maxentius this evening for the last event of the International Literature Festival.

The much-anticipated Beyoncé & Jay-Z concert is tonight at Stadio Olimpico.

Update your summer look at leading hairdresser TONI&GUY. WiR cardholders receive 15 per cent off salon services.

For a sweet treat near Campo de' Fiori, stop by Zum, a tiramisù-lover’s dream.

ART MUSIC FOOD NATURE CINEMA FAMILY THEATRE

Spend the day with your dog at Bau Beach near Fiumicino. WiR cardholders receive a 10 per cent discount on entry tickets.

Marvel at the Giudizio Universale: Michelangelo and the Secrets of the Sistine. Chapel. WiR cardholders get 10 per cent discount."

Use your WiR card for a reduced ticket to a showing at L’Isola Del Cinema film festival on Tiber Island.

17 Check out Bukowski’s Bar in Borgo Pio and enjoy a free half-pint with your WiR card!

24 Bring your family to the International Chamber Ensemble concert of Greatest Soundtracks, set in the S. Ivo alla Sapienza courtyard.

Celebrate American Independence Day with activities at bars such as the Abbey Theatre and Scholars Lounge.

Spend an evening at the theatre with Rome’s Shakespearean festival at the Silvano Toti Globe Theatre.

Dive into 2,700 years of Roman history with multimedia experience Welcome To Rome. WiR cardholders receive free entry.

Thu

July Sat 2018

Fri

Enjoy bars, restaurants, live acts, discos and cinema at Gay Village in the CittĂ dellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Altra Economia.

Stop by Club Apres in Prati for a new experience and delicious cocktails. Bring your WiR card for free entry.

Go for a bespoke cocktail at Enjoy the Roman summer trendy bar Sacripante in the by exploring the city on a scooter from Cooltra. Use Monti District. your WiR card for a 30 per cent discount.

14 Snag tickets for the concert by Roger Waters tonight in Circo Massimo for Rock in Roma.

The z2o Sara Zanin Gallery presents an exhibition of works by British artist Gabriel Hartley.

The Incanto Quartet takes to the stage for the open-air Teatro Romano Ostia Antica Festival performing L'Opera incontra il Pop.

Bring a seat and a picnic to the Porto Turistico of Rome in Ostia for a free movie showing with views over the sea.

to do

Sun Mon Tue Wed

Bring some friends to the Summer Beer Garden at Manforte for music, food and beer in the fresh air.

5 Experience the "Miracle of the Snow" or La Madonna della Neve at the Basilica di S. Maria Maggiore.

The six-night reggae and dancehall festival Nemi Lake Reggae Camp continues at El CastillĂ´.

19 ART MUSIC FOOD NATURE CINEMA FAMILY THEATRE

Make a point of trying a new gelato spot: we recommend Neve di Latte around the corner from the Maxxi museum.

View the paintings of Turner at the Chiostro del Bramante. WiR cardholders receive a â&#x201A;Ź2 discount.

Enjoy the Blue Flag beach of For a bit of nightlife check Sabaudia, reachable by out the weekly party hosted by L-Ektrica at Hotel public transport. Butterfly.

Join Rome-based DJ Lindy Hop at her Monday Night Swinging event in the garden of Monk club.

Immerse yourself in the fresh waterfall garden beside the lake in EUR, known as Giardino delle Cascate.

15 22 29 Now would be a good time to snag an outdoor table at popular Roman trattoria Cesare al Casaletto.

Thu

Fri 2

Use your WiR card for a reduced ticket to a showing at Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Isola del Cinema on Tiber Island.

Teatro dellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Opera di Roma presents the ballet Romeo & Juliet at Caracalla Festival. WiR cardholders receive 10 per cent ticket discount.

Beat the heat with children Experience an orchestral at Hydromania water park. performance over the sea at sunrise as part of the Ravello Festival on the Amalfi Coast.

16 23

Rent a canoe at Lago di Martignano and take in the scenic views surrounding the beaches.

Spend the evening listening to live jazz under the stars at Village Celimontana.

Visit Villa Torlonia to see a retrospective dedicated to Roman artist Duilio Cambelloti.

Take a trip to Bomarzo for Catch the largest Canaletto the Porcini Mushroom exhibition ever held in Italy Festival at Parco Delle Stelle. before it ends tomorrow at Palazzo Braschi.

24 Indulge in a day by the olympic-sized pool at the Cavalieri Hilton in Monte Mario.

Aug Sat 2018 25

ROME'S MAJOR

MUSEUMS VATICAN MUSEUMS Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums

Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

Crypta Balbi

Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

MAXXI

STATE MUSEUMS

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00. Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Baths of Diocletian

Palazzo Corsini

Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Borghese Museum

Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Italy's museum of oriental art, formerly located on Via Merulana, is currently closed pending its reopening at Museo Nazionale Preistorico Etnografico Luigi Pigorini di Roma, Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

Palazzo Barberini

Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

24 | July-August 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed. Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.

T H E M A P O F A R T I N I TA LY

ROME'S MAJOR

MUSEUMS VATICAN MUSEUMS

Crypta Balbi

Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums

Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

MAXXI

STATE MUSEUMS

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00. Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Baths of Diocletian

Palazzo Corsini

Borghese Museum

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Palazzo Altemps

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

Palazzo Barberini

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century In partnership paintings. 08.3019.30. Monwith closed. Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.

Villa Farnesina

Museo Canonica

CITY MUSEUMS

Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).

Centrale Montemartini

Museo Napoleonico

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.

Capitoline Museums

Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS

Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun.

Casa di Goethe

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it. Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Mon-Fri 10.00-20.00. Sat-Sun 10.00-21.00.

MACRO

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

MATTATOIO Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed. www.museomacro.org.

Galleria Colonna

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. The city’s collection of contemporary art, plus temporary exhibition space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.

Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www.casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Chiostro del Bramante

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00. Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.

Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, www.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

Giorgio De Chirico House Museum

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Keats-Shelley House

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, www.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking. Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www.keats-shelley-house.org. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours available on advance booking.

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WHAT’S ON Roma Città Moderna at Galleria d’Arte Moderna. Comizio (1950) by Giulio Turcato.

academies

30 | July-August 2018 • Wanted in Rome

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EXHIBITIONS

EXHIBITIONS AFRICAN METROPOLIS: AN IMAGINARY CITY 22 June-4 Nov

Described as a “detailed overview of the artistic and cultural scene of the African continent”, this exhibition comprises the works of around 40 artists reflecting on Africa’s ongoing social and cultural changes. The exhibition includes works by Abdulrazaq Awofeso, Godfried Donkor, Nicholas Hlobo, Adboulaye Konaté, Pascale Marthine Tayou and Amina Zoubir. See cover by Konaté. MAXXI Museo nazionale delle arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4/a, www.maxxi.art.

KEVIN MURRAY: ROMAN STILL-LIFES 22 June-6 July

Rome-based Australian painter Kevin Murray stages an exhibition of Roman still life paintings at Studio Minerva. Murray says his works on display are designed to “delight the eye of viewers and also engage their minds.” The artist, whose style is grounded in the ideals of the Scuola Romana movement, has lived in Rome since 1960. For information contact dellascala4@gmail.com, Studio Minerva, Via Pietro Micca 6.

PETER KIM 21 June-4 Nov

To celebrate the opening of The Museo Carlo Bilotti dedicates an exhibition to the New-York based Korean artist Peter Kim whose work addresses themes such as memory, time and the relationship between culture and nature. On display are Kim’s vessels and skeins, made from coloured threads, alongside a series of drawings, videos and a sitespecific artwork on the terrace. Museo Carlo Bilotti, Viale Fiorello

La Guardia 6 (Villa Borghese), www.museocarlobilotti.it.

MAURO STACCIOLI: SENSIBILE AMBIENTALE 13 June-30 Sept

The Baths of Caracalla host the first major retrospective dedicated to the internationally celebrated Italian sculptor Mauro Staccioli who died in January aged 80. The exhibition, which is supported by the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna (GNAM), includes 26 works placed around the grounds and in underground areas of the baths, with a special itinerary emphasising Staccioli’s desire for a close relationship between sculpture and the environment. 09.00-19.15. Viale delle Terme di Caracalla 52.

L’ALTRO SGUARDO: FOTOGRAFE ITALIANE 1965-2018 8 June-2 Sept

More than 200 photographs and photographic books from the Donata Pizzi Collection, an extensive archive documenting the role of female Italian photographers from the mid1960s to today. The exhibition comprises photographs by about 70 Italian photographers from various generations and genres: from the pioneering works of Paola Agosti and Letizia Battaglia to more recent images by Silvia Camporesi and Gea Casolaro. Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Via Nazionale 194, tel. 0639967500, www.palazzoesposizioni.it.

MICHELE GABRIELE: CLUMSY AND MILKY 7 June-27 July

The White Noise Gallery in Rome’s S. Lorenzo district presents Clumsy and Milky: encoding the last quarter

of a pose, an exhibition by Milan artist Michele Gabriele. Each of the works on display appears three-quarters visible, regardless of the vantage point, in what is described as a metaphor for social media users’ “obsessive need to always show their best selfie– face”. Exhibition curators say the resulting relationship between the viewer and the sculpture becomes “similar to the one between a teen star and a demanding fan.” White Noise Gallery, Via dei Marsi 20/22, tel. 064466919, www. whitenoisegallery.it.

GABRIEL HARTLEY: SPOILED 6 June-31 July

The z2o Sara Zanin Gallery presents an exhibition of paintings, drawings and sculptural reliefs made by the British artist Gabriel Hartley at the beginning of 2018 during his residency at the British School at Rome. The works on display are themed around the idea of spoiling something, of purposefully pushing it to the point of ruin, celebrating the end result whose scarred surface holds scattered information, imagery that is both recognisable and abstract, and colours that advance and recede. z2o Sara Zanin Gallery, Via della Vetrina 21, www.z2ogalleria.it. African Metropolis at MAXXI. Le Merchant de Venise by Kiluanji Kia Henda.

ROME

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PARIS

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NEW YORK

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LOS ANGELES

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DUILIO CAMBELLOTTI: MITO, SOGNO E REALTà

Mauro Staccioli: Sensibile Ambiente at Baths of Caracalla. Piramide (1972-2009) cement and iron. Courtesy Archivio Mauro Staccioli.

6 June-11 Nov

Villa Torlonia dedicates a comprehensive retrospective to the Roman illustrator, painter, set and costume designer and sculptor Duilio Cambellotti (18761960). Divided between the villa’s Casino dei Principi and Casino Nobile, the exhibition comprises around 230 works spanning six decades of the artist’s career. Musei di Villa Torlonia, Via Nomentana 70, tel. 060608, www. museivillatorlonia.it.

MAXXI BULGARI PRIZE 1 June-28 Oct

A new partnership between MAXXI and luxury jeweller Bulgari has resulted in the MAXXI Bulgari Prize, designed to nurture the development of young international artists. The prize replaces the former Premio MAXXI and the winner will be announced in London in October. The three finalists are New York’s Talia Chetrit, who presents the photo and video project Amateur; Invernomuto. composed of Simone Bertuzzi and Simone Trabucchi, who present the film Calendoola; and Paris-based Diego Marcon who has created a sound installation, a sculpture and a perfume. MAXXI Museo nazionale delle arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4/a, www. maxxi.art.

KAZUKI TAKAMATSU: FOR TOMORROW 1 June-15 July

Japanese artist Kazuki Takamatsu shows his latest series of works in a double exhibition at the Dorothy Circus galleries in Rome and London. The works were created using a mix of painting and digital art and feature the artist’s trademark imagery of ethereal girls in ghostly white against black backgrounds. Dorothy Circus Gallery, Via dei Pettinari 76, www.dorothycircusgallery.it.

STILL SHOWING AMIN GULGEE: 7 31 May-23 Sept

The city’s Galleria d’Arte Moderna presents the works of Amin Gulgee, one of Pakistan’s leading artists, as part of the project From La Biennale di Venezia & OPEN to Roma. International Perspectives, which brings artists’ site-specific installations from Venice to Rome. Held in collaboration with the embassy of the Republic of Pakistan in Italy, Gulgee’s installation features seven bronze pieces representing an Arabic sentence, referring to peace and love, located in the gallery’s cloister-garden. Galleria d’Arte Moderna di Roma Capitale, Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.galleriaartemodernaroma.it.

layer paintings contain strong cultural allusions to pop, movies, magazines, music and advertising, while Quinn’s pastoral landscapes and still lifes are transformed from the familiar to the fantastic. Galleria Mucciaccia, Largo della Fontanella di Borghese 89, www. galleriamucciaccia.com.

ECO E NARCISO 18 May-28 Oct

To celebrate the opening of 11 new rooms at the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Antica at Palazzo Barberini, the museum presents a series of ancient portraits and self-portraits from its collection alongside contemporary works from the MAXXI Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI secolo. See article page 4. Galleria Nazionale di Arte Antica di Roma - Palazzo Barberini, Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, www. barberinicorsini.org.

RICHARD PATTERSON GED QUINN

BOLDINI: DISEGNI, STUDI, INCISIONI

25 May-14 July

18 May-6 July

Galleria Mucciaccia presents an exhibition of works by two well-known British artists, Richard Patterson and Ged Quinn, showing for the first time together in Rome. The two artists were born in the UK in 1963, establishing themselves in the late 1980s, and both employ a multitude of forms, idioms and genres. Patterson’s complex multi-

The Galleria Aleandri Arte Moderna presents drawings, sketches and etchings by the Ferrara artist Giovanni Boldini (1831-1941), in collaboration with Milan’s Galleria Bottegantica. In addition to numerous studies of landscapes, figures, portraits of young women, Parisian interiors and etchings, the exhibition includes 17 small notebook

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studies, all depicting Parisian café scenes and dating to around 1876. The gallery also displays the pencil study for the well-known painting Portrait of Donna Florio. Galleria Aleandri Arte Moderna, Piazza Costaguti 12, www. aleandriartemoderna.com.

TEL AVIV THE WHITE CITY 16 May-2 Sept

The embassy of Israel to Italy, in collaboration with MAXXI, organises an exhibition on the 70th anniversary of the creation of the state of Israel. The exhibition comprises 100 photos, sketches, models and videos, revealing the urban project behind Tel Aviv involving the collaboration of more than 70 architects and engineers between the 1920s and 1930s. The new city was designed according to the spirit of the Bauhaus by the most important names of the era, primarily Patrick Geddes, with buildings based on the architectural ideas of Walter Gropius, Le Corbusier and Erich Mendelsohn. MAXXI Museo nazionale delle arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4/a, www.maxxi.art.

RAFFAELE DE VICO (1881-1969) ARCHITETTO E PAESAGGISTA 16 May-30 Sept

documented in accompanying texts by Lorenzo Matassa. Palazzo Cipolla, Fondazione Roma Museo, Via del Corso 320, tel. 066786209, www.fondazioneromamuseo.it.

Almost 100 works by Italian architect Raffaele de Vico (18811969) who is best remembered for his designs involving Rome’s public parks and fountains. The plans, photographs and documents on display, all from Rome’s collections and archives, illustrate the urban and social transformation of Rome in the first half of the 20th century. Palazzo Braschi, Piazza di S. Pantaleo 10, www.museodiroma.it.

DREAMERS 1968

SICILIA, IL GRAND TOUR

GLI ARCHITETTI DI ZEVI

8 May-22 July

Palazzo Cipolla presents an exhibition of about 400 watercolours by Fabrice Moireau, the celebrated French watercolourist who undertook a recent “grand tour” of Sicily. Moireau recorded views from Sicily’s archaeological sites, nature reserves, castles and small outlying islands, and his travels off the beaten bath are

L’altro sguardo: Fotografe italiane 1956-2018 at Palazzo delle Esposizioni. Central Park #2, 2015 by Anna Di Prospero.

5 May-2 Sept

Multimedia exhibition of photographs, newspaper front pages, magazine covers and archive footage commemorating the 50th anniversary of the street protests and civil rights marches that shook the world in 1968. Museo di Roma in Trastevere, Piazza S. Egidio 1B, tel. 065816563, www. museodiromaintrastevere.it.

25 April-16 Sept

Under the subheading History and counter-history of Italian architecture 1944-2000, MAXXI celebrates the legacy of Italian architect Bruno Zevi on the centenary of his birth. The exhibition comprises literature, audio and video footage highlighting Zevi’s multifaceted work as historian, lecturer, designer, writer, politician, radio and television broadcaster. The show also examines the architects whose work he promoted, from Pier Luigi Nervi to Renzo Piano. MAXXI Museo nazionale delle arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4/a, www.maxxi.art.

FRANCESCO CLEMENTE 18 May-3 Aug

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill presents its third exhibition of work by New York-based Italian artist Francesco Clemente who was a central protagonist in Italy’s Transvanguardia movement in the 1980s. The exhibition features a selection of canvases from a body of recent paintings Clemente has made based on his reading of The King of Harlem, a poem by the Spanish poet Federico García Lorca. The paintings reflect the pain, joy, music, and liveliness of black culture in New York and in America in general. Galleria Lorcan O’Neill, Vicolo dei 34 | July-August 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Memmo, Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www. fondazionememmo.it.

VIAGGIO NEI FORI 21 April-11 Nov

Two outdoor shows with music, light projections and historical commentary are held at Rome’s Forum of Caesar and Forum of Augustus every night. The Viaggi nell’antica Roma project uses light, images, film and animation to conjure up portrayals of life in ancient Rome, with historically accurate commentary available in eight languages. For details see website, www.viaggioneifori.it.

CANALETTO 1697-1768 11 April-19 Aug

Palazzo Braschi honours the Italian master Canaletto with 68 works, the largest Canaletto exhibition ever held in Italy. See review page 35. Museo di Roma at Palazzo Braschi, Piazza di S. Pantaleo 10, www.museodiroma. it. Duilio Cambellotti at Villa Torlonia. La storia del principe Amed e della Fata Peri-Banu. Catinari, tel. 0668892980, www. lorcanoneill.com.

FONDAZIONE MEMMO 4 May-11 Nov

Fondazione Memmo presents _ Ruine, the first solo show in Rome of German artist Kerstin Brätsch, and _KOVO, the exhibition of the collective KAYA (Kerstin Brätsch and Debo Eilers). A new group of marbling paintings [Psychopompo] made with German master marbler Dirk Lange, is shown alongside stuccomarmo works by Brätsch, created in collaboration with the Roman artisan Walter Cipriani. KAYA’s site-specific _KOVO installation is described as a “violent collision between painting and sculpture” and comprises a series of lamps and skins. Fondazione

ROMA CITTÀ MODERNA 29 March-28 Oct

Rome’s municipal gallery of modern art traces the evolution of art in the capital from the time of mayor Ernesto Nathan (19071913) up to 1968, a turbulent year of social and political strife in Europe. The exhibition comprises around 150 paintings, sculptures and prints from the city collection. Galleria d’Arte Moderna di Roma Capitale, Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.galleriaartemodernaroma.it.

TURNER 22 March-26 Aug

watercolours and a selection of oil paintings. Chiostro del Bramante, Arco della Pace 5, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

HIROSHIGE: VISIONI DAL GIAPPONE 1 March-29 July

The Scuderie del Quirinale presents an exhibition dedicated to Utagawa Hiroshige (17971858), one of the most influential Japanese artists of the mid-19th century. The show features 230 works, displayed in seven themed sections, alongside a parallel programme of Japanese cultural events. Scuderie del Quirinale, Via Ventiquattro Maggio, www. scuderiequirinale.it.

CITAZIONI PRATICHE: FORNASETTI A PALAZZO ALTEMPS 16 Dec-9 Sept

Rome’s Palazzo Altemps celebrates its 20th anniversary by presenting an exhibition in collaboration with the Milan design studio Fornasetti. The installation involves more than 800 objects and designs from the Fornasetti archive, ranging from assemblage to ceramic cats, contrasting with the museum’s magnificent collection of ancient sculpture. Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700.

TRAIANO: COSTRUIRE L’IMPERO, CREARE L’EUROPA 29 Nov-16 Sept

The Chiostro del Bramate hosts an exhibition of works by the English Romantic painter, printmaker and watercolourist, Joseph Mallord William Turner (1775-1851). Organised in collaboration with Tate Britain, the show comprises more than 90 works by Turner, including sketches, studies,

Major show dedicated to Emperor Trajan on the 1,900th anniversary of his death. On display are statues, portraits and architectural decorations, alongside multimedia and interactive installations. Mercati Traianei, Via Quattro Novembre, www.mercatiditraiano. it.

35 | July-August 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Il ponte di Rialto da Nord, Venezia, 1725. © Pinacoteca del Lingotto Giovanni e Marella Agnelli, Torino.

Marco – from different angles and in different seasons – with many such examples on display at Palazzo Braschi. An additional treasure is his intricate pen and ink recording of the Coronation of the Doge (1766), capturing the pageantry of the event in the finest of detail (see below). Rome residents keen to see Canaletto’s portrayal of the Eternal City in the 18th-century will not be disappointed. There are several scenes from the Roman Forum, including the Arch of Settimio Severo (1743) and the Basilica di Massenzio (1753-54), as well as a wildly overgrown Colosseum (1755). The most impressive Rome work is arguably his 1755 depiction of the Campidoglio, complete with strolling nobility and clergy, and polished off with an ornate horsedrawn carriage at the bottom of the steps.

CANALETTO EXHIBITION REVIEW Rome hosts the exhibition Canaletto 1697-1768 at Palazzo Braschi until 19 August. The Italian master Canaletto is honoured with a major retrospective, the largest exhibition of his works ever held in Italy, at the Museo di Roma at Palazzo Braschi. Canaletto 1697-1768 celebrates 250 years since the death of the Venetian painter who revolutionised landscape painting, raising the genre to the same importance as historical and figurative art. More than two years in the planning, the show features 42 paintings and nine drawings by Canaletto, along with 16 archive documents on loan from some of the world’s most important collections. Hailing the exhibition as “without precedent”, organisers emphasised the significance of having so many Canaletto works in one place, particularly considering that his “most beautiful works are in the museums furthest away [from Italy].”

Canaletto also spent a lucrative decade – during the middle-to-latter part of his career – working in England where his paintings of less sunny scenes ended up in the collection of King George III. Perhaps his most fascinating English work on display is Chelsea from Battersea Reach, painted in 1751 before being cut in two about half a century later. Palazzo Braschi shows both paintings side by side, one on loan from Britain’s National Trust, the other from Cuba’s National Museum in Havana. This exhibition has plenty of centuries-old crowdpleasers, alongside less well known paintings and sketches by the Venetian master. The show also underlines the growing importance of Palazzo Braschi which has hosted several major exhibitions recently, from Artemisia Gentileschi to Piranesi (see article page 4). Canaletto can certainly be added to this list of important shows. Andy Devane Photos: su concessione del Ministero dei Beni delle Attività Culturali e del Turismo - Biblioteca Statale di Lucca.

The exhibition includes several Canaletto masterpieces such as The Grand Canal from the north, towards the Rialto bridge, and The Grand Canal with S. Maria della Carità, exhibited together for the first time, along with the manuscripts detailing their commission. Born Giovanni Antonio Canal, the young Canaletto served his apprenticeship with his father and brother in Venice, painting opera stage sets. However, after a trip to Rome in his early 20s, Canaletto began concentrating on landscapes and ruin-rich imaginary views, known as capricci. Best known today for his vedute of his native Venice, Canaletto depicted numerous scenes of Piazza S.

L’incoronazione del Doge sulla Scala dei Giganti di Palazzo Ducale, Venezia 1763-1766. Courtesy Jean-Luc Baroni Ltd. 37 | July-August 2018 • Wanted in Rome

ROMA • FIRENZE • MILANO • BRESCIA 38 | July-August 2018 • Wanted in Rome odoroki.it SERRAVALLE (AL) • MONTEBELLO

CLASSICAL

Pianist Igudesman and violinist Joo at S. Cecilia.

ACCADEMIA S. CECILIA

KATIA BUNIATISHVILI

S. IVO ALLA SAPIENZA

IGUDESMAN & JOO

26 July

Pianist Katia Buniatishvili plays Tchaikovsky’s piano concerto no. 1 and the S. Cecilia orchestra, conducted by Long Yu, performs Mahler’s symphony no. 1. Roma Summer Fest. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

14 July-11 Aug

5 July

Pianist Igudesman and violinist Joo explore the theory of chaos in Upbeat, along with guest artist Stefano Bollani accompanied by the S. Cecilia orchestra. Roma Summer Fest. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

EZIO BOSSO NUOVI MONDI 12 July

Ezio Bosso conducts the S. Cecilia orchestra performing his Oceans symphony no. 1 with Luigi Piovano cello, together with Dvorak’s New World symphony. Bosso’s Oceans is constructed around five movements for five oceans: Atlantic, Pacific, Indian, Arctic and Antarctic. The oceans are the orchestra and the cello is the solitary individual confronting the oceans. Roma Summer Fest. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

CONCERTI IL TEMPIETTO FESTIVAL MUSICALE DELLE NAZIONI July-sept

Rome’s summer would not be the same without these outdoor concerts at Teatro Marcello almost every evening throughout July, Aug and Sept. The programme gets better every summer; what started out as mainly piano concerts now includes chamber music and song recitals and choirs, as well as a section dedicated to young pianists on 12 July. The programme also continues into the autumn when it moves inside to Sala Baldini, Piazza Campitelli. www.tempietto.it.

The International Chamber Ensemble presents another summer season of music in the courtyard of S. Ivo alla Sapienza, halfway between the Pantheon and Piazza Navona. The ensemble led by Francesco Carotenuto plays music for all tastes, from film scores, to musicals, to wellknown classics and tango. Corso del Rinascimento 40, www. icensemble.it.

other venues Some of Rome’s English speaking churches, such as St Paul’s within the Walls, All Saints’, Ponte S. Angelo Methodist church and the Oratorio Caravita also have concerts and opera recitals during the summer. S. Agnese in Agone in Piazza Navona is another location to check as is Palazzo Doria Pamphilj with its Sounds and Visions of Caravaggio series.

39 | July-August 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Damien Rice performs for the Ostia Antica Festival on 22 July.

ROCK, POP, JAZz ROMA SUMMER FEST 2 June-1 Aug

The Roma Summer Fest presents concerts in the outdoor Cavea venue at the Auditorium Parco della Musica. The diverse programme of concerts continues on 3 July with Simple Minds, followed by Stefano Bollani Igudesman Joo (5 July), Francesco De Gregori (6 July), Snarky Puppy (7 July), Hollywood Vampires (8 July), Alanis Morissette (9 July), Franz Ferdinand & Mogwai (10 July), Ringo Starr (11 July), Ezio Bosso (12 July), Alex Britti (13 July), Chick Corea (14 July), Stefano Bollani Quintet (16 July), James Blunt (17 July), ORFF, Carmina Burana (18 July), Jethro Tull (19 July), Pat Metheny (20 July), Caetano Veloso (21 July), King Crimson (22 and 23 July), Katia Buniastishvili (26 July), Steven Tyler & the Loving Mary Band (27 July), Sting and Shaggy (28 July) and closing with Bandabardò (1 Aug). Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via Pietro de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium. com.

VILLA ADA: ROMA INCONTRA IL MONDO 15 June-1 Aug

The 24th edition of Rome’s annual world music festival returns to the shores of the little lake in the gardens of Villa Ada this summer.

The programme began in midJune and continues into July with Galeffi + Mox (3 July), Godspeed you! Black Emperor (4 July), Willie Peyote (5 July), Il Muro del Canto (7 July), Giovanni Lindo Ferretti (9 July), Pingiuini Tattici Nucleari (10 July), Reverend Horton Heat Pschobilly Holy Day Fest (11 July), Bud Spencer Blues Explosion (12 July), Washed Out (13 July), Chinese Man (14 July), Calibro 35 (15 July), Little Steven and the Disciples of Soul (17 July), Dobet Gnahorè (18 July), Gogol Bordello (19 July), Mezzosangue (20 July), New York Jazz Ska Ensemble + Shots In The Dark (22 July), Kruder & Dorfmeister (23 July), Goran Bregovic (24 July), Nitro (25 July), Orchestraccia (26 July), Tedua (28 July), Nicola Vicidomini (29 July), Huun Huur Tu (31 July), Ministry (1 Aug), Stefano Saletti and Banda Ikona (2 Aug), Iosonouncane + Paolo Angeli (3 Aug). The calendar is constantly being updated so it is advisable to check website for additional concerts during the summer. The festival area opens each night at 20.00 and the music kicks off at 22.00. Villa Ada, Via di Ponte Salario, www.villaada. org.

ROCK IN ROMA 20 June-19 July

Rock in Roma is the city’s summer festival dedicated to rock music. The festival is based at the Ippodromo delle Capannelle venue but there are several concerts taking place in other

40 | July-August 2018 • Wanted in Rome

locations including Circo Massimo, Auditorium Parco della Musica and Ostia Antica. The 2018 lineup includes major rock, heavy metal and rap acts and continues with Macklemore (3 July), De André (5 July), Coez (7 July), Hollywood Vampires (8 July), Cigarettes After Sex (10 July), Post Malone (10 July), Carl Brave X Franco126 (12 July), Lo Stato Sociale (13 July), Roger Waters (14 July), Caparezza (15 July), The Chemical Brothers (19 July), Myles Kennedy (19 July), Sferra Ebbasta (21 July), Mannarino (25 July), and Fabri Fibra (26 July). For full details including tickets see website, www.rockinroma. com. Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245.

OSTIA ANTICA FESTIVAL: IL MITO E IL SOGNO 24 June-28 July

The third edition of the Ostia Antica Festival takes place in the Antico Teatro Romano of the archaeological park outside Rome until 28 July. Two of the festival’s dates form part of the Rock in Roma programme and include Cigarettes After Sex (10 July) and Myles Kennedy (19 July). The festival’s varied line-up also features The Queen Orchestra, a musical and theatrical tribute show to Queen with (7 July), Nino D’Angelo (20 July), Carmina Burana (21 July), Damien Rice (22 July), Burt Bacharach (25 July), Latte e i Suoi Derivati (26 July) and ending on 28 July with a performance by Pink Floyd Legend. For ticket information see TicketOne website, www. ticketone.it.

JAY-Z AND BEYONCÉ 8 July

Jay-Z and Beyoncé perform in Rome’s Olympic Stadium as part of their “On the Run II” stadium tour which includes 15 European venues. For tickets see TicketOne website, www.ticketone.it.

Woolf Works by Wayne McGregor at Ravenna Festival.

DANCE BOLZANO

MILAN

ROMEO AND JULIET

BOLZANO DANCE FESTIVAL

DON CHISCIOTTE

12-27 July

10-18 July

This is the only ballet at the Baths of Caracalla this summer, with a new choreography by Giuliano Peparini to Prokofiev’s music with the ballet company of the Teatro dell’Opera. Peparini has already choreographed a very popular version of the Romeo and Juliet story under the title Romeo e Giulietta – Ama e Cambia il Mondo.

This festival is for real devotees of contemporary dance, with master classes for professionals, adults and children as well as performances at various locations around Bolzano. For details of programme see www. bolzanodanza.it.

FLORENCE INAUGURAZIONE PALAZZINA DELL’INDIANO 29 June-1 July

Virgilio Sieni officially takes over the Palazzina dell’Indiano – recently restored by the city – as a centre for dance and the language of dance for a five year period. Italy’s top choreographer has organised work shops and laboratories on gesture and nature, exhibitions and demonstrations to mark the inauguration. Palazzina dell’Indiano, Piazzale dell’Indiano. Sieni is also organising Sfilato_Ballo 1872 for people of all ages and without any dance experience to take part in a parade to mark the inauguration. For more information see www. virgiliosieni.it.

27 July-4 Aug

This is Rodolf Nureyev’s choreography of Don Chisciotte as part of the continuing homage of La Scala to the great Russian dancer and choreographer on the 80th anniversary of his birth and the 25th anniversary of his death. This production is one of the hallmarks of the La Scala ballet company and has been in the company’s repertoire since 1980 when it was first danced by Nureyev and Carla Fracci. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

ROME

TANGO GLACIALE RELOADED 1982-2018 1 July

TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA BATHS OF CARACALLA ROBERTO BOLLE AND FRIENDS 18-19 July

RAVENNA

Roberto Bolle and his guests dancing at the Baths of Caracalla has become a traditional event of the Teatro dell’Opera’s summer season.

This is another restaging within the Reconstruction Italian Contemporary Choreography 80s and 90s (RIC.IC) project. It is a historic piece by the then 22year old Mario Martone and has now been “reloaded” by a group of dancers and actors who were not born when the work was created in 1982. Here the interdisciplinary approach of the RIC. IC project is in the interaction of dance and theatre. Teatro Alighieri, Via Mariani 2, www. ravennafestival.org.

41 | July-August 2018 • Wanted in Rome

A LETTER TO MY NEPHEW BILL T. JONES / ARNIE ZANE COMPANY 11 July

A letter to my Nephew is a portrait of Bill T. Jones’s nephew, Lance Briggs, a talented dancer who had problems with addiction, sexual exploitation and illness. The piece, for nine dancers, is created around an exchange of postcards between uncle and nephew, between America and Europe, and the action is centred around Lance’s hospital bed. It was premiered in Paris in November 2015 on the night of the Bataclan terrorist attack. Bill T. Jones sets the work to club and hip-hop music as he tries to imagine the life of his nephew. This is the first time that the piece has been performed in Italy. Teatro Alighieri, Viale Mariani 2, www.ravennafestival. org.

ROBERTO BOLLE AND FRIENDS 22 July

Fans of contemporary Bill T. Jones will probably give this one a miss. Roberto Bolle is strictly classical, the star of La Scala and the American Theatre Ballet. If you are a festival-goer you are bound to bump into him somewhere this summer. He’s a great performer and is one of the best classical dancers that Italy has to offer. If

you don’t catch him this summer there is a chance to see him in the autumn at La Scala in L’Histoire Manon by Massenet (17 Oct-2 Nov), the last event before the opening of the new season. He will be dancing with Svetlana Zakharova on 17, 19, 25 Oct. Try to get tickets for these nights as this is a ballet that really requires the very best dancers. Palazzo Mauro de André, Viale Europa 1, www.ravennafestival.org.

RAVELLO BILL T. JONES / ARNIE ZANE COMPANY 4 July

There are two pieces in the programme, Time: Study II and Story which is new to Ravello. The Abballamm’ dancers, young professionals and dance school graduates will participate in Time: Study II. Belvedere di Villa Rufolo, Ravello, www.ravellofestival.com.

1968: SEE ME FEEL ME ACT OF MERCY PEGGY UNTITLED 2013-2018 5 July

There are two pieces in the programme, Time: Study II and Story which is new to Ravello. The Abballamm’ dancers, young professionals and dance school

graduates will participate in Time: Study II. Belvedere di Villa Rufolo, Ravello, www.ravellofestival.com.

WAYNE MCGREGOR 7 July British choreographer Wayne McGregor and his company offer an ambitious programme with Alessandra Ferri, Federico Bonelli and Herman Cornejo (stars of the Royal Ballet and the American Theatre Ballet). It’s seldom possible to see these three stars together in Italy and another highlight of the evening is the lyrical Woolf Works choreographer by McGregor, inspired by three Virginia Woolf novels, Mrs Dalloway, Orlando and The Waves which premiered in London in 2015. Belvedere di Villa Rufolo, www.ravellofestival.com.

DADA MASILO/THE DANCE FACTORY 13 July Dada Masilo rounds off the dance section at the Ravello festival with her choreography of Giselle to music by Philip Miller, with lighting by William Kentridge. South African dancer and choreographer Masilo turns her

Letter to my nephew by Bill T. Jones at Ravenna Festival. Photo Liza Voll.

42 | July-August 2018 • Wanted in Rome

attention to Giselle following her successful re-interpretations of two other classics, Swan Lake and Carmen. This is an exclusive event for Italy. Belvedere di Villa Rufolo www.ravellofestival.com.

SVETLANA ZAKHAROVA 29 July

Svetlana Zakharova, the principal ballerina of the Bolshoi Ballet and the etoile at La Scala, is performing with guest artists from the Bolshoi and St Petersburg’s Mariinky in an evening of Russian ballet. Il Belvedere Villa Rufolo, www.ravellofestival.com.

Rovereto ORIENTE/OCCIDENTE DANCE FESTIVAL 31 Aug-8 Sept

This is another festival for real dance pros, with master classes and workshops. For more details see website www.orienteoccidente. it.

THEATRE SHAKESPEARE AT THE GLOBE 27 June-14 Oct Rome’s Shakespearean festival at the Silvano Toti Globe Theatre celebrates its 15th anniversary

Spoleto

THEY

MY LADIES ROCK

Marianna Kavallieratos’s choreography explores the themes of gender and sexual identity and how to define them in today’s world. The work has been developed within the Watermill Center summer programme in New York, based around the words of Emily Dickenson’s poem: “I am nobody. Who are you? Are you nobody, too?” S. Nicolo Sala Convegni, www.festivaldispoleto. com.

12-14 July

6-8 July

This choreography by JeanClaude Gallota is about the influence of women in the world of rock, based on music by famous women, Marianne Faithful, Aretha Franklin, Janis Joplin, Brenda Lee, Tina Turner, Patti Smith. All the stranger therefore that the choreography should be by a man. Teatro Romano, www. festivaldispoleto.com.

turin

JOHN NEUMEIER OLD FRIENDS

torinodanza

13-14 July

John Neumeier has created this choreography for the Hamburg Ballet based on past memories and friends, as well as new and future ones. He manages to combine the music of Bach and Chopin with that of Simon and Garfunkel. Teatro Romano, www. festivaldispoleto.com.

10 Sept-1 Dec

and this year for the first time comes under the umbrella of the city’s Teatro di Roma network. The four-month festival in Villa Borghese is once again under the artistic direction of popular Roman actor Gigi Proietti and includes an English-language performance. The season opens with Molto rumore per nulla (Much Ado About Nothing), directed by Loredana Scaramella (27 June-15 July); followed by Otello (Othello) directed by Marco Carniti (20 July-5 Aug); Sogno di una notte di mezza estate (A Midsummer Night’s Dream) in the version by the late director Riccardo Cavallo (8-26 Aug); La bisbetica domata (The Taming of the Shrew) directed by Loredana Scaramella (31 Aug-16 Sept); La Tempesta (The Tempest) directed by Daniele Salvo (21 Sept-7 Oct); and concluding with The Merchant of Venice, an original

language version by the Londonbased Bedouin Shakespeare Company, directed by Chris Pickles (10-14 Oct). There are also several poetic and musical projects including Sonetti D’Amore, Playing Shakespeare and William and Elizabeth, as well as a short film competition on the theme Teatro secondo me, overseen by Proietti and selected by an expert panel. Rome’s Globe Theatre is a full-scale timber reproduction of Shakespeare’s Globe, copied from the original oak and thatch designs, and is almost identical to the one that stands on London’s South Bank. The festival attracts around 65,000 spectators each year, and all shows are in Italian with the exception of the final production. Largo Acqua Felix, Villa Borghese, www. globetheatreroma.com.

The theme of this year’s contemporary dance festival in Turin is based on Leonard Cohen’s unforgettable song Dance me to the end of love. We will be back with more information in the Sept edition. www.torinodanzafestival. it.

43 | July-August 2018 • Wanted in Rome

The Festival di Caracalla hosts Carmen directed by Valentina Carrasco from 14 July-2 August.

festivals in rome CINEMA IN PIAZZA 1 June-8 Sept

Il Cinema in Piazza, the free openair film festival formerly known as Festival Trastevere Rione del Cinema, leaves behind its Piazza S. Cosimato base for a nearby venue, as well as two new destinations in Rome’s suburbs. The Cinema in Piazza programme divides its time between the 1,100-sqm courtyard in the J.F. Kennedy high school on Via Dandolo 106, the Porto Turistico di Roma marina in the Ostia coastal district and the Casale della Cervelletta in the far-eastern suburb of Tor Sapienza. Festivalgoers can look forward to 200 films, all screened in their original language with Italian subtitles or, where possible, in Italian with English subtitles. Each venue will showcase various retrospective sections dedicated to actors and directors. Tor Sapienza honours Pedro Almodóvar, Hayao Miyazaki and Matteo Garrone; Ostia pays tribute to Federico Fellini, Tim Burton, Sofia Coppola, Pier Paolo Pasolini, Quentin Tarantino and Disney classics; and Trastevere highlights the films of Ingrid Bergman, Paul Thomas Anderson, Darren Aronofsky, Dario Argento, Franco Zeffirelli, Woody Allen and the Disney classics. There are 50 special guests from the world of Italian cinema including big names such as Luca Guadagnino, Matteo Garrone, Gigi Proietti, Asia Argento and Carlo Verdone. In March the popular open-air festival announced that it would be leaving its Piazza S. Cosimato base, following a high-

profile dispute with the city council which insisted that the festival space in Piazza di S. Cosimato be put out to tender this summer, with a reduced time-frame, under the capital’s Estate Romana event programme. Backed by leading cinema figures such as Paolo Sorrentino, the festival organisers I Ragazzi del Cinema America resisted the city’s demands, announcing their departure for two new destinations in Rome’s suburbs while managing to remain in Trastevere. Festival organisers recently claimed that the city has failed to source cultural activities for Piazza S. Cosimato during the summer months – aside from a one-day event in September. For programme see Il Cinema in Piazza website, www.ilcinemainpiazza.it.

ISOLA DEL CINEMA

LETTURE D’ESTATE 21 June-2 Sept

7 June-2 Sept

Now in its 24th year, this quality cinema event lights up the Isola Tiberina in the middle of the river Tiber each evening over the summer. The 2018 edition of this multifaceted festival includes screenings, encounters and discussions with important figures from the world of film. Its programme comprises films by emerging directors, independent cinema, documentaries, and major international productions, including films screened in their original language versions. For details see website, www.isoladelcinema.com.

FESTIVAL DI CARACALLA 13 June-6 Aug

outdoor summer festival at the Baths of Caracalla includes two operas, two ballet performances and various concerts. The two operas are a new production of La Traviata directed by Lorenzo Mariani (3-20 July) and last year’s Carmen directed by Valentina Carrasco (14 July-2 Aug). Roberto Bolle and friends dance their annual performance on 17-18 July and the main dance event is Prokovief’s Romeo and Juliet (27-4 Aug). It is a new production by Giuliano Peparini, pupil of Roland Petit at the Ballet National de Marseille. He has numerous choreographies to his name and has extensive experience in television in Italy and France. In 2016 he produced a new version of Lo Schiaccianoce for the Rome opera. The music programme features concerts by Icelandic singersongwriter Björk (13 June), Italian jazz musician Paolo Conte and his orchestra (14-15 June), composer Ennio Morricone with his 60 years of Music tour (16-18 June), American singer-songwriter James Taylor & his All-Star Band plus special guest singer-songwriter Bonnie Raitt (23 July) and American folk star Joan Baez (6 Aug). For details see Teatro dell’Opera di Roma website, www. operaroma.it.

This year the Teatro dell’ Opera’s

The Gardens of Castel S. Angelo host Letture d’Estate, a programme of “summer readings along the river and among the trees”, with a programme of free cultural events and children’s activities each day from 10.00 until 01.30. Dedicated to books and reading, the programme includes more than 850 events including meetings, readings, music, games, performances and film screenings. The festival will also raise funds for Peter Pan Onlus, the Rome charitable association which provides support for families with children suffering from cancer, whose volunteers will be on hand to oversee games from chess to table-tennis. For details see Letture d’Estate website, www. letturedestate.it.

45 | July-August 2018 • Wanted in Rome

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Gilberto Gil for Umbria Jazz on 14 July.

Rossini, performed by children for children (19 July). The three other operas are Romeo e Giulietta by Nicolo Vaccaj (13, 15, 31 July), Rinaldo by Handel (29 July, 2, 4 Aug) conducted by Fabio Luisi, the artistic director of the festival and Il Trionfo dell’Onore by Alessandro Scarlatti which will be performed in the old farm estate building of the Masseria Palesi. There are also concerts and recitals and a number of special Rossini projects to mark the bi-centenery of the composer’s death. For more details see Opera Notes and www.festivaldellavalleditria.it.

FESTIVALS IN ITALY FLORENCE MAGGIO MUSICALE FIORENTINO 5 May-15 July

Ai confini della liberta is the theme of this year’s Maggio Musicale Festival which involves 70 institutions in 45 different locations throughout Tuscany. Unusual operas take pride of place and dance returns to the festival again. On 13 July Riccardo Muti will conduct a concert version of Verdi’s Macbeth to celebrate the 50th anniversary of his debut at Maggio Musicale. If you miss the concert in Florence you can catch it again on 15 July in Ravenna (see also Ravenna festival). www. operadifirenze.it.

LA FOCE INCONTRI IN TERRA SIENA 28 July-4 Aug

This year is the 30th anniversary of the festival held at the home of the late Antonio and Iris Origo and still master-minded by their family. The inaugural concert on 28 July with the Camerata Strumentale di Prato is conducted by Jonathan Webb and with two top-ranking solists, Antonio Lysy cello (grandson of Antonio and Iris), Emmanuel Pahud flute. It is followed by six evenings of firstclass chamber music. This is a

short, high standard and friendly festival thanks to the continuing family dedication and musical flair. www.itslafoce.org.

MACERATA 20 Jul-12 Aug

Colour the festival green this year; green for hope, green for a better future, green for the environment and nature. The interpretation of the three operas chosen this year for the Sferisterio outside theatre is based on one or more of the four natural elements, air, fire, water and earth. Graham Vick debuts at the Sferisterio with Mozart’s Magic Flute (20, 29 July, 4, 12 Aug), followed by Damiano Michieletto who also debuts at Macerata with Donizetti’s Elizir d’ Amore, which Michieletto sets at the beach (21, 27 July, 5, 10 Aug) and finally La Traviata directed by Henning Brockhaus or Traviata degli Specchi as it is often known, which was first staged at the Sferisterio in 1992 and has been popular ever since. For more details see Opera Notes and www. sferisterio.it.

MARTINA FRANCA VALLE D’ITRIA 20 Jul-12 Aug

There are three operas and one specially for children this year, C’era una Volta Cenerentola by

PERUGIA UMBRIA JAZZ 12-27 July

This year’s line-up at the Arena S. Guiliana is full of exciting names, starting with Quincy Jones for his 85th birthday celebration on 13 July, followed by Gilberto Gil on 14 July, Caetano Veloso and Stefano Bollani on 15 July. Then comes Massive Attack on 16 July, the Chainsmokers on 17 July. On 18 July Benjamin Clementine, who goes from strength to strength, makes his Italian debut in a double bill with Somi who is working on a jazz opera about Miriam Makeba to whom she is often compared. On the last evening on 22 July it’s the turn of Gregory Porter and his tribute to Nat King Cole. There are also free concerts almost every evening in Piazza IV Novembre and the Giardini Carducci. The afternoon concerts at Teatro Morlacchi are the hang-out for the real jazz specialists. For all details see www.umbriajazz.com.

RAVELLO 30 June-25 Aug

This festival probably has the most spectacular setting of all in Italy, on the Amalfi coast at the belvedere of Villa Rufolo where Wagner was inspired to set his opera Parsifal. The programme this year is as good as the setting. Take almost any event and

47 | July-August 2018 • Wanted in Rome

you’ll hit a winner. The dawn concert, at 4.45 on 11 Aug is always the most popular, with the Salerno Philharmonic orchestra conducted by Ryan McAdams (Beethoven and Grieg). The evening symphony orchestras are conducted by some of the world’s best, Myung-Whun Chung on 14 July (Ravel and Berloiz), Jérémie Rhorer on 22 July (all Mozart), Ivan Fischer on 18 and 19 Aug (Bartok, Mahler, Brahms and Liszt), Valery Gergiev on 21 Aug (Stravinsky and Tchaikovsky), Donald Runnicles on 25 Aug (Wagner). The dance programme is also top class (see Dance section on page 42 for more details). In addition there are also midnight piano concerts, jazz and contemporary music. Belvedere di Villa Rufolo, Ravello, www. ravellofestival.com.

RAVENNA FESTIVAL 1 June-22 July 23 Nov-2 Dec

The multi-disciplinary Ravenna festival lives up to its reputation yet again this year with a demanding programme of concerts, chamber music ensembles, sacred and profane music, dance, lectures and opera. This year the festival marks 50 years from the killing of Martin Luther King and the festival is dedicated to him with numerous works under the In the Veins of America section. The other theme of the festival is the importance of the lyre dedicated to the role the instrument has played in music

from biblical times onwards, with music by Alfred Schittke, Arvo Pärt and Ukrainian composer Valentyn Sylvestrov, who is this year’s guest artist. There is one opera in concert form, Macbeth, conducted by Riccardo Muti on 15 July. Then in November there are three operas, Nabucco, Rigoletto and Otello. Throughout the festival there is a tribute to Dante by young artists every morning at the poet’s tomb in the Antichi Chiostri Francescani which features local and international performance artists in preparation for 2021, the 700th anniversary of the poet’s death in Ravenna in 1321. The Roads of Friendship concert this year is dedicated to the Ukraine (it is dedicated to a different city or country each year) with Riccardo Muti conducting the Ukrainian National Opera orchestra playing music by Copeland and Verdi on 3 July. See Dance on page 42 for the dance events. All details about the festival are on the easy-touse website where it is possible to search by date, location, genre, www.ravennafestival.org.

SPOLETO 29 June-15 July

The Spoleto festival used to be the best all-round festival in Italy under the inspiration and guidance of the late Gian Carlo Menotti. Other festivals have now taken over where Menotti left off but Spoleto is still worth an evening out from Rome. There is plenty of theatre, some dance

The Ravello Festival is based at the belvedere of Villa Rufolo on the Amalfi coast.

48 | July-August 2018 • Wanted in Rome

(see Dance section) and one opera. There are also midday and evening concerts. The closing event on 15 July, which by tradition is in the spectacular setting in front of the town’s beautiful cathedral, is Jean d’Arc au Bûcher, directed by Benoit Jacquot, a dramatic oratorio in 11 scenes in which Joan of Arc (Marion Cotillard) looks back over her life in flashbacks during her dramatic last moments at the stake. With the choir and children’s choir of S. Ceclia conducted by Jérémie Rhorer. www.festivaldispoleto.com.

TORRE DEL LAGO 6 July-25 Aug

The Puccini festival near Lucca at Torre del Lago where Puccini lived and composed many of his works presents his five most popular operas Turandot (14, 21, 28 July, 17 Aug), Tosca (15 July, 4, 12 Aug), Madame Butterfly (20 July, 10, 18 Aug), Manon Lascaut (26 July), La Boheme (27 July, 3 Aug) and Il Trittico (11, 25 Aug). www.puccinifestival.it.

VERONA FESTIVAL 23 June-1 Sept

The operas at Verona’s lovely arena this summer are Aida 23 June-1 Sept, Turnadot 30 June26 July, Nabucco 7 July-18 Aug, Il Barbiere di Siviglia 4-30 Aug and Carmen 22-31 Aug. Bizet’s Carmen is a new production by Hugo de Ana for the Arena di Verona, with Francesco Ivan Ciampa conducting the Arena di Verona orchestra and ballet. Aida is the Franco Zeffirelli production conducted by Jordi Bernacer alternating with Daniel Oren and Andrea Battistoni. Puccini’s Turnadot is also a Zeffirelli production with Oren and Ciampa conducting. Nabucco is last year’s production by Arnaud Bernard. The production of Rossini’s Barbiere is the 2007 Hugo de Ana version, conducted by Oren and Battistoni. Roberto Bolle and friends will dance on 25 July. www.arena.it.

Carmen at the Baths of Caracalla.

opera MILAN

rome

TEATRO ALLA SCALA

OPERACAMION RIGOLETTO

FIDELIO 18 June-7 July

Beethoven’s opera is conducted for the first time by MyungWhun Chung in this production by Deborah Warner. She created it for the opening of the 2014 La Scala season when it was conducted by Daniel Barenboim. Simone Schneider sings Leonore and Stuart Skelton takes the role of Florestan. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.

IL PIRATA BY BELLINI 29 June-19 July

The last time this Bellini opera was staged at La Scala was in 1958 when Maria Callas took the lead role. This new production, in conjunction with the Teatro Real in Madrid and the San Francisco Opera, is conducted by Riccardo Frizza and directed by Emilio Sagi, an expert in staging Rossini, Bellini and Donizetti belcanto operas, with Sonya Yoncheva as Imogene. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.

18 June-9 July

For the second year Teatro dell’Opera takes to the streets in Rome and around Lazio with performances from the back of a lorry, this time with Verdi’s Rigoletti. The lorry functions as the stage, with a dual setting of the court and of Rigoletto’s own private world in a tower. Most of the cast is from the Teatro dell’Opera’s own training programme for young singers. The Operacamion will take opera to the 2016 earthquake areas of Amatrice and Accumoli, to Rieti and to Ponte di Nona Corviale, Labaro and Laurentina in Rome. For exact locations and times see www.operaroma.it.

CARACALLA LA TRAVIATA BY VERDI 3 July-20 July

A new production of Verdi’s well-known opera debuts at the Baths of Caracalla for the Teatro dell’Opera summer season. The

director is Lorenzo Mariani, artistic director of Palermo’s Teatro Massimo. Yves Abel and Carlo Donadio will conduct the Teatro dell’Opera orchestra. Mariani has directed many operas worldwide but this is his first production of La Traviata. His interpretation of Il Barbiere di Seviglia was performed at the Baths of Caracalla in 2014 and 2016. www.operaroma.it

CARACALLA CARMEN BY BIZET 14 July-2 Aug

Valentina Carrasco’s interpretation of Bizet’s opera returns to the Baths of Caracalla again this summer. Argentinian director Carrasco moved the setting from Spain to the border between Mexico and the United States where the story unfolds in a modern-day setting in a cigarette factory close to the wall across the frontier. The ruins of the Baths of Caracalla make a suggestive backdrop. www.operaroma.it.

For other opera news see Festivals in Italy on pgae 47.

49 | July-August 2018 • Wanted in Rome

OPERA NOTES Tra gli avvenimenti lirici estivi italiani più importanti uno dei primi ad aprire i bat-tenti è il Macerata Opera Festival (20 luglio-12 agosto). In programma ci saranno un nuovo allestimento per il titolo d’apertura e due spettacoli già visti e collaudati. Graham Vick, al suo debutto all’Arena Sferisterio, curerà la regia di Die Zauberflöte, l’ultima opera composta da Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart che andrà in scena per quattro sere dal 20 luglio al 12 agosto. Per lo stesso numero di recite Damiano Michieletto proporrà L’elisir d’amore di Gaetano Donizetti (21 lugli-10 agosto) in un allestimento già visto a Valencia nel 2011 e prettamente vacanziero, perché ambientato in una spiaggia tra ombrelli, sdraio e cabine. In alterna con questi titoli, la terza e ultima opera in cartellone è La traviata di Giuseppe Verdi (22 luglio-11 agosto) nello storico spettacolo firmato da Henning Brockhaus con la scena ideata da Josef Svoboda: uno specchio gigantesco inclinato che riflette prima il palcoscenico e alla fine, ponendosi in verticale, la platea e i palchi dello Sferisterio. La cura delle rispettive parti musicali spetterà nell’ordine a Daniel Cohen, a Francesco Lanzillotta (il direttore musicale del Marcerata Opera Festival) e a Keri-Lynn Wilson. www.sferisterio.it. Il Festival della Valle d’Itria a Martina Franca, giunto alla sua 44a edizione (13 luglio – 4 agosto), propone come di consueto opere fuori del grande repertorio: quest’anno due di raro ascolto e due prime esecuzioni in tempi moderni. Giulietta e Romeo di Nicola Vaccaj (13, 15 e 31 luglio) ai suoi tempi fu un titolo famoso (ebbe la sua prima a Milano nel 1825) eppure venne eclissato da I Capuleti e i Montecchi di Vincenzo Bellini (Venezia 1830) che si avvaleva dello stesso soggetto ma di una musica più in linea con i gusti del nascente romanticismo. Il trionfo dell’onore di Alessandro Scarlatti (22, 24, 27 e 30 luglio) ebbe un successo trionfale alla première napoletana del 1718, cui seguirono due secoli di oblio fino alle “riscoperte” del 1938 e del 1941. Le novità del festtival sono date da Rinaldo di Georg Friedrich Händel (29 luglio, 2 e 4 agosto) e da La Profezia di Eliseo di Giovanni Paolo Colonna (14, 28 luglio e 1 agosto). Rinaldo è la prima opera che Händel propose a Londra con esito trionfale (1711). Il successo si ripetè in altre città: Dublino, Amburgo e Napoli dove venne rappresentata nel 1718 con l’aggiunta di alcune arie di Leonardo Leo. E in questa versione che Rinaldo sarà dato a Martina Franca. Giovanni Paolo Colonna fu un originale compositore della seconda metà del Seicento abile nel trattare le voci, scrisse molta musica sacra, 4 opere e 13 oratori, La profezia di Eliseo è uno di questi. www.festivaldellavalleditria.it. Quest’anno ricorrono i 150 anni della morte di Gioachino Rossini (1792-1868) e il Festival di Pesaro a lui dedicato (11-23 agosto) propone tre suoi titoli opportunamente divisi tra rarità e repertorio. Apre la manifestazione Ricciardo e Zoradie (11-20 agosto) che al Rossini Opera Festival (ROF) fino ad oggi s’è vista soltanto nel 1990 e nel 1996; ora torna diretta da Giacomo Sagripanti, messa in scena da Marshall Pynkoski e interpre-tata nei ruoli del titolo da Juan Diego Flórez (presenza costante al festival e beniamino del pubblico) e da Pretty Yende. Anche Adina (12-21 agosto), il secondo titolo in cartellone che avrà per protagonista Lisette Oropesa, è una rarità per il ROF come Ricciardo e Zoraide, ha avuto due sole rappresentazioni nel 1999 e nel 2003. Adina è un farsa in un atto ed è l’unica opera che Rossini scrisse per uno stato straniero differente dalla Francia; composta a Bologna nel 1818 fu data al Teatro S. Carlo di Lisbona nel 1826. Il dramma giocoso Il barbiere di Siviglia appartiene invece e di diritto al grande repertorio classico: è opera famosissima e amatissima. Al ROF in questa edizione si avvarrà della direzione di Yves Abel, della regia delle scene e dei costumi di Pier Luigi Pizzi e dell’interpretazione dei cantanti Davide Luciano (Figaro), Maxim Mironov (Il Conte d’Almaviva), Aya Wakizono (Rosina), Pietro Spagnoli (Bartolo) e Michele Pertusi (Basilio). Il cartellone del ROF anche in questo 2018 si arricchisce di interessanti manifesta-zioni collaterali. Lisette Oropesa in Concerto (14 agosto), Grande scene Rossiniane (16 agosto) con il basso Nicola Alaimo e l’attore Remo Girone, Rossinimania, Cabaret Rossini (18 agosto) con la partecipazione di Anna Bonitatibus e di Massimo Ranieri e due Concerti di Belcanto: di Eleonora Buratto (19 agosto) e di Michele Pertusi (20 agosto). Chiude la manifestazione Petite Messe Solennelle (23 agosto) in versione per grande orchestra con i solisti Carmela Remigio, Daniela Barcellona, Celso Albelo e Nicolas Courjal, dirige Giacomo Sagripanti. www. rossinioperafestival.it. Paolo Di Nicola

Green is the theme of this year’s Macerata Opera Festival.

50 | July-August 2018 • Wanted in Rome

La cascata e il lago by Robert Geschwantner at Casa di Goethe.

ACADEMIES AMERICAN ACADEMY IN ROME 10 May-8 July

Yto Barrada - The Dye Garden. This exhibition features new work by acclaimed FrancoMoroccan multimedia artist Yto Barrada who is known for her exploration of the landscape, geology and botany of north Africa in the context of the colonial and post-colonial eras. Barrada traces the origins of the colours used in the natural dyes in tapestries and textiles, prior to the introduction of artificial dyes, uncovering a “complex set of exchanges linking East and West.” Her exhibition draws on the tapestries representing the triumphs of Roman general Scipio Africanus, Paul Klee’s “discovery” of abstraction in Tunisia, and gardens in Roman ruins. American Academy in Rome, Via Angelo Masina 5, tel. 0658461, www.aarome.org.

casa di goethe 30 May-23 Oct

Casa di Goethe Rome presents

an exhibition by contemporary Austrian artist Robert Gschwantner whose work focuses on the intervention of man on natural environments, with a particular focus on water landscapes such as lakes, islands and canals. Gschwantner’s exhibition is dedicated primarily to two ancient but artificial landscapes: the Marmore Waterfalls near Terni in Umbria and the Portus port (Lago di Traiano) at Fiumicino near Rome. The artist’s “image objects” are made from transparent plastic tubes, containing water collected on-site, as well as mirrors which reflect landscapes by the classical painter Johann Christian Reinhart. Casa di Goethe, Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it.

touch, use, test, taste or take away

FRENCH ACADEMY OF ROME

2015 by Chiara Parisi, all three

31 May-15 Aug

The French Academy at Villa Medici presents an innovative exhibition entitled Take Me (I’m Yours) whose visitors are presented with the chance to

the objects in the show, which runs until all works are dispersed. Unlike conventional exhibitions, visitors will not merely look, but will have access to the artworks and will play a central role in their rebirth and dispersal. This

collective,

participatory

installation comprises works by 89 international artists and will be the largest contemporary art exhibition ever presented at Villa Medici. This constantly evolving exhibition format was conceived for the Serpentine Gallery in London in 1995 by Christian Boltanski and Hans Ulrich Obrist, before being revived in Paris in of whom are curators of the Villa Medici show. For full details see website. Villa Medici, Viale della Trinità dei Monti, www. villamedici.it.

51 | July-August 2018 • Wanted in Rome

lassical

The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a definitive list of all the music that is available in the city. There are also concerts in many of the churches and sometimes in the museums. Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season starts on 15 Oct Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All concerts at Auditorium Parco della Musica. The new season starts on 5 Oct Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone.com RomeConcerts, Methodist Church, Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it Roma Sinfonietta, Auditorium Ennio Morricone, Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are at Teatro Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others are at the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Roma Tre, Via Ostienze 234, www.r30.org There are often concerts, festivals and opera recitals in several churches in Rome. All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, www.allsaintsrome.org Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7 St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Piazza Navona Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com 52 | July-August 2018 • Wanted in Rome

MUSIC THEATR CINEMA VENUES

MUSIC THEATRE CINEMA DANCE OPERA

inema

The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for weekly updates. Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 Barberini, Piazza 0686391361

Barberini

24-26,

tel.

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. 068553485 Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. 066861068 Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 Odeon, Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361 Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. 06892111 Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111

dance

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it

opera

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

ock

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs. Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Founded in 1946 Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org

PalaLottomatica, Piazzale dello Sport 1, tel. Atlantico, Viale dell’Oceano Atlantico 271d, 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it one of the best international schools in europe, and the first to open Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. Auditorium Parco della Musica, VialeinP.Italy, de Marymount rome is a private, catholic institution for students in Pre-early childhood throughwww.rockinroma.com Grade 12. 0654220870 Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com

Teatro Quirinetta, ViaOlds Marco Minghetti tel. Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. Our new Pre-EC Program for Two Year will open in5, September 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com 06704731, www.casajazz.it 2018 and is structured to support and develop our youngest students’

Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, social, emotional and academic readiness for early childhoodVia through Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com inquiry-based play and a strong foundation for language acquisition.

heatre

Students are guided in their activities by highly-trained english mothertongue teachers and enjoy daily outdoor learning experiences in the early childhood Garden, nestled in Marymount’s 40-acre campus on protected parkland.

all Marymount studentsOlimpico, are stimulated be successful and happy Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. Teatro PiazzatoGentile da Fabriano 17, tel. learners through an excellent academic curriculum and enrichment 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it

International baccalaureate Program classes that complement Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, Teatro the S. strong Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, and american high School Diploma, thus providing opportunities to www.teatrobelli.it www.teatrosangenesio.it attend high-ranking universities around the world. Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsiwww.teatrobrancaccio.it stina.it Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 Teatro Via Giacinto Via di Villa lauchli, 180 -Vascello, 00191 rome, Italy Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.teatroghione.it +39 06.3629101 -www.teatrovascello.it admissions@marymountrome.com

www.marymountrome.com Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it

Part of the Global Network of MaryMouNt SchoolS rome • Paris • london • New york • los angeles

dance

opera

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

ock

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs. Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org Atlantico, Viale dellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Oceano Atlantico 271d, tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com Live Alcazar, Via Cardinale Merry del Val 14, tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com Monk Club, Via Giuseppe Mirri 35, tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it PalaLottomatica, Piazzale dello Sport 1, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

heatre

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it

Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, www.teatrobelli.it

Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, www.teatrosangenesio.it

Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobrancaccio.it

Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsistina.it

Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatroghione.it

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.teatrovascello.it

Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net

Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it

54 | July-August 2018 â&#x20AC;˘ Wanted in Rome

Rome's reputation as an important street art capital continues to grow with new murals by important Italian and international street artists appearing all the time. Most of the works are located in the suburbs, often far from the centre. Here is where to find Rome’s main street art projects and murals. Esquilino Murals by Alice Pasquini, Gio Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Diamond. Casa dell'Architettura, Piazza Manfredo Fanti 47. Marconi The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo Gestito dai Rom), a project by French street artist Seth is located in a former soap factory on Via Antonio Avogadro, opposite Ostiense's landmark Gasometro. For details see www.999contemporary.com. Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz This former meat factory in the outskirts of Rome is now a street art museum as well as being home to some 200 squatters, many of them migrants. The Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz, or MAAM, is only open on Saturdays, and features the work of more than 300 artists including Edoardo Kobra, Gio Pistone, Sten&Lex and Diamond. See MAAM Facebook page for details. Via Prenestina 913.

Via Fanfulla da Lodi. 2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio. Blu Landscape by Sten & Lex. Via Francesco Baracca. Prati Anna Magnani portrait by Diavù. Nuovo Mercato Trionfale, Via Andrea Doria. Daniza the bear by ROA. Via Sabotino. Primavalle The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via Cristoforo Numai. Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo. Quadraro Tunnel murals by Mr THOMS and Gio Pistone. Via Decio Mure. Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte. Via del Monte del Grano. Baby Hulk by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89. Rebibbia Murals by Blu. Via Ciciliano and Via Palombini (Casal dè Pazzi). Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Metro B station.

Ostiense Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Porto Fluviale. Fish’n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale. Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali. Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense.

S. Basilio SanBa features large-scale works on the façades of social-housing blocks in the disadvantaged north-east suburb of S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regeneration project includes works by Italian artists Agostino Iacurci, Hitnes and Blu alongside Spain's Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, Via Treia.

Pigneto Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.

S. Giovanni Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.

56 | July-August 2018 • Wanted in Rome

It’s a New Day by Alice Pasquini. Via Anton Ludovico. S. Lorenzo Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli. Feminicide mural by Elisa Caracciolo. Via Dei Sardi. Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159. Mural by Agostino Iacurci on the Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia. S. Pietro Uma Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione di S. Pietro, Clivo di Monte del Gallo. Testaccio Hunted Wolf by ROA. Via Galvani. #KindComments by Alice Pasquini, Via Volta, Testaccio market. Tor Pignattara Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta. Etnik. Via Bartolomeo Perestrello 51. Coffee Break by Etam Cru. Via Ludovico Pavoni. Tom Sawyer by Jef Aerosol. Via Gabrio Serbelloni. Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Galeazzo Alessi. Herakut. Via Capua 14. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Tor Marancia The Big City Life scheme features 14-m tall murals by 22 Italian and international street artists including Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia and Jerico. The idea was to transform the area's blocks of flats into an open-air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. For full details see website, www.bigcity.life.it.

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

57 | July-August 2018 â&#x20AC;¢ Wanted in Rome

Accommodation vacant in town HOME ALVITI - OPEN SPACE Between S. Giovanni, Monti, Celio, the historic centre and S. Lorenzo, the apartment is located in the Esquilino area, in a strategic position for those traveling. Managers, commuters or tourists are welcome in this house from which you can easily reach all the most interesting places in the city. The apartment is the result of a recent renovation made to measure by the brothers Alviti, Cristiano and Patrizio, artists and craftsmen founders of Officina Alviti. The apartment is on the third floor of a late 19th century building with elevator. From the disengagement, which divides the property in two, the first door on the left opens on the “Open Space” really silent and well thought out to accommodate a couple. In the living room there is a kitchen with stove, fridge, washing machine, television and a good wireless connection; while in the sleeping area, in addition to the large double bed, there is an open wardrobe and an en suite bathroom. Concierge service is available for half a day. Two large windows overlooking the characteristic courtyard, flood this lovely open space with light, with a living area on one side - entrance, kitchen, table for two and relaxation chair -and sleeping area on the other, with double bed, wardrobe and hall bathroom with large shower. Contact maddalenatonini@gmail.com. HOME HOLIDAYS ALVITI - APT FOR THAT SUMMER 2018 Apartments are the derivation of our old home: bright and full of romanesque architectures, the way who inspired my brother Cristiano and me, Patrizio, to began a painter and a sculptor. Each detail of this house is realised by ourselves: from walls to interior furniture, with pictures and sculptures too. The apartament will be available for the Summer 2018 since the end of June, until the end of August. MANZONI AREA Garden apartment renting, six months minimum at €800 a month. Contact: dellascala4@gmail.com. VIGNA CLARA - GIOCHI DELFICI 25 sqm studio apartment. Bedroom, kitchen, bathroom, completely furnished. €550 monthly, all included. Please call 3467882036. TRASTEVERE Independent on a private courtyard. Living room, kitchenette, bedroom, bathroom with shower, completely furnished and provided with linen. Close to all public transport and shops. Long and short term rents. Contact marilu_vitali@yahoo.it. STAZIONE TRASTEVERE STATION - MARCONI Single room to rent. . Fully furnished 70 sqm, hall, 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, kitchen, store room, terrace, concierge. Close to Roma Tre University and Metro B. Wi-Fi. Info pics rome.

craigslist.it/apa/5079283755.html. cuorediroma@gmail.com, cavallaro_andrea70@hotmail.com, tel. 349 / 0861468. €1000 plus expenses.

Accommodation vacant out of town TIVOLI - MANDELA 19th century tower, completely restored 90 sqm furnished / unfurnished apartment with entrance, 2 bedrooms, living room, bathroom, kitchen, €350 + €40 condominium. 50 km from Rome, two apartments in old castle, completely restored, living room, 2 bedrooms. Unfurnished. €310 + 40 condominium. Other: 3 bedrooms, living room, dining room, 2 fireplaces, 2 bathrooms, balcony, terrace. €450 + 40 condominium. Tel. 066786400. fedel@email.it. IN VILLA OVERLOOKING LAKE BRACCIANO Fabulous views, flat w/ big living-dining room, 1 bedroom, full bath, kitchenette, terraces, parking, huge garden, Trevignano Romano, available after 8 Aug, tel 3406165748. TIVOLI - MANDELA 19th century tower, completely restored 90 sqm furnished / unfurnished apartment with entrance, 2 bedrooms, living room, bathroom, kitchen, €350 + €40 condominium. 50 km from Rome, two apartments in old castle, completely restored, living room, 2 bedrooms. Unfurnished. €310 + 40 condominium. Other: 3 bedrooms, living room, dining room, 2 fireplaces, 2 bathrooms, balcony, terrace. €450 + 40 condominium. Tel. 066786400. fedel@email.it.

Jobs vacant TOUR OPERATOR IS LOOKING Tour operator is looking for outgoing English, Spanish, German speaking people to give info and assistance to tourists in the Colosseum area. Working time from 09.0014.00. Contact mackhugs@gmail.com. ESTABLISHED ENGLISH SCHOOL SEEKING Established English School seeking qualified English mother-tongue teachers for children aged 3-12. Must have valid working documents. Please send your CV to aurelia@ angloamericankids.it.

Lessons FRENCH QUALIFIED TEACHER Need to learn French for fun, business or culture? English, Italian, Spanish speaking. Loves teaching, your house or mine. Please leave telephone number or email. Tel. 3299823826; f.bessoles.rm@gmail.com.

THE WANTED IN ROME OFFICE WILL BE CLOSED FROM 25 JULY UNTIL 5 SEPTEMBER. CLASSIFIED DEADLINE DATES Date di scadenza 22 Aug 19 Sept PUBLICATION DATES Giorno di pubblicazione 3 Sept 1 Oct

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58 | July-August 2018 • Wanted in Rome

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59 | July-August 2018 â&#x20AC;¢ Wanted in Rome

Poetry LEGHIAMO CINQUE STELLE Among vexed questions and Mattarella’s rush act is newborn the govern of change. PD as opposition party, Forza Italia standing at the window chissà se va a monte pure er governo Conte. sernicolimarco@gmail.com. CHANGING SONG I don’t want to run after terrorism anymore, I don’t want to run after bad governs anymore. I want just a little stop. Ma guarda un pop. sernicolimarco@gmail.com. POLIZIA LOCALE Once upon a time the eternal city, asphalt, transport, rubbish, public utility, urban decay, unemployment, traffic, cost of living; what to say to Campidoglio? Roma esci dar coma. sernicolimarco@gmail.com. FIRENZE HAS STOPPED Like a gift received from the sky, your aspect, your courtesy, your education, your seriousness and the way you played soccer. We will not forget this. In alto i nostri cuori rivolti a Davide Astori. sernicolimarco@gmail.com. 4 MARCH 2018 I should have written more but it doesn’t matter; ladies and gentlemen da Milano a Bari “ oggi so’ cavoli amari.” sernicolimarco@gmail.com. BALL Like a shoot at goal never done, like a qualification never achieved, like a Sweden never defeated. Italy soccer team won’t take part to the Russia world competition. Coach Ventura che fregatura. sernicolimarco@gmail.com. ELECTORAL RIFORM We call it inciucio between Renzi e Berlusconi. No need for a medium to say che nun serve sto Rosatellum. sernicolimarco@ gmail.com.

Property for sale out of town CHARMING AND COSY WOODEN COTTAGE FOR SALE Charming and cosy “baita” wooden cottage + 2 bedroom Cottage annex, at 20 miles driving distance from Rome, in the Parco di Vejo Natural Reserve. The property, located in an elevated position, is set in a unique and dreamy landscape. It is set on a 2.5 acre area with woodland, a large flat lawn (football field size) located in front of the main house, olive trees, an orchard, and a rich diversity of flowers, plants and trees. It is enriched by an eating area with a brick wood fired pizza oven, and a lit dancing floor to use in the warm summer nights by the moon. €660.000 Mail pierdavid@ tiscali.it.

60 | July-August 2018 • Wanted in Rome

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61 | July-August 2018 â&#x20AC;¢ Wanted in Rome

62 | July-August 2018 â&#x20AC;¢ Wanted in Rome

63 | July-August 2018 â&#x20AC;¢ Wanted in Rome

Wanted in Rome | December 2017

FEBRUARY 18 - MARCH 3 TEATRO COSTANZI CONDUCTOR

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