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EDITORIALS
4. alberghi diffusi: a different kind of holiday
Margaret Stenhouse
8. buyng a property in italy
Bonnie rose-zanni
12. POETs’ rome Martin bennett
52. PARKS AROUND
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Ogni immagine un racconto (detail) by Primarosa Cesarini Sforza. Exhibition at Galleria Arte e Pensieri, Via Ostilia 3a, until 26 June. For details see page 29. Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 9, Numero 4
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Tourism
ALBERGHI DIFFUSI: A DIFFERENT KIND OF HOLIDAY FULL IMMERSION IN ITALIAN VILLAGE LIFE IS THE PHILOSOPHY OF THE FORMULA “ALBERGO DIFFUSO”
Margaret Stenhouse Sextantio in the Abruzzo region is one of the first examples of an albergo diffuso.
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n a balmy summer evening in the late 1990s, Daniel Elow Kilhgren, a young philosophy graduate of ItalianSwedish descent, took a trip on his motorcycle among the mountains and valleys of the Gran SassoMonti della Laga National Park in the heart of Abruzzo. He suddenly came upon the little village of S. Stefano in Sessanio and the discovery changed his life. Couched on a rocky outcrop 1,250m above sea level, the village was once an important crossroads between Rome and the Adriatic. Governed by the powerful Medici family of Florence, it had also been a prosperous manufacturing centre for carfagna, a rough black wool used for making monks’ habits and soldiers’ uniforms. Up till the 19th century, the village had a population of some three thousand. When Kilhgren arrived, it was virtually deserted; its population had shrunk to 80, mostly elderly, people, eking
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out a parsimonious existence on money sent to them by emigrant relatives. Kilhgren realised at once that the village had tourist potential. It was surrounded by beautiful, unspoiled countryside. The views in all directions were stunning. The village itself, huddled inside its massive stone walls, was perfectly preserved in its original mediaeval form. He was determined to keep it that way. Any new buildings, he believed, would have spoiled its time-warp integrity. He began by purchasing two abandoned houses and adapting their interiors to create accommodation suitable for modern visitors. With an almost obsessive regard for authenticity, Kilhgren combed local antique shops and markets to find original pieces of furniture. He commissioned traditional woven bed covers and rugs and installed concealed lighting. The only concession he made to the needs of modern visitors were the en-suite bathrooms.
Tourism Two decades later he has 20 properties, including residences inside the noble Palace of the Loggias and self-catering units in the old watch tower. The reception, meeting room and restaurant are in the former community mill and warehouse. The Casa della Posta (post office), five minutes out of town, has been added, offering tennis courts and free use of bicycles. It has become a popular venue for weddings, meetings and events and the deserted village of S. Stefano in Sessanio has taken on a new lease of life. The enterprise, which he named Sextantio after the name of the earliest known settlement in the area, is one of the first and purest examples of an albergo diffuso. The idea first took off in the Alpine area of Carnia (Fruili-Venezia Giulia) after the earthquake of 1976, when government funds were allotted to restore houses and promote tourism. A pilot project, the Borgo Maranzanis, was launched in Comeglians near Povolaro (Udine) in 1982, and 13 years went by before Corte Fiorito, the second model of an albergo diffuso, opened on the west coast of Sardinia near Alghero. The new hospitality formula was officially recognised at legislative level in 1998. The National Association of Alberghi Diffusi was created in 2006. The association has set up strict guidelines for membership. The requisites needed to qualify as an albergo diffuso include its position in an inhabited town centre, with rooms in different buildings situated no further than 200m from the central reception, all under the same management and with the inclusion of hotel-type services. The albergo diffuso should be situated in the
middle of a living community and blend into an authentic local setting. “Many people have difficulty in understanding what an albergo diffuso is,” says the association’s president Carlo Dall’Ara, a professor of tourism marketing and originator of the formula. “They think it is simply a network of buildings around a central core. But it is much more than that. The idea behind it is to inject new life into small towns and villages, so many of which are fighting against the problems of shrinking populations. It is a new model of hospitality that helps sustainable development. It is another concept of hospitality, involving the entire community.” The association now has just over a hundred members. Regretfully, however, a number of establishments that are listed on websites as alberghi diffusi do not conform to the association rules but resemble more closely conventional hotels. “One of the main problems is that alberghi diffusi are regulated at regional, not at national level, and the regulations vary,” Dall’Ara explains. “So there is no standard model for the whole country. “The core philosophy is that guests should feel they are part of the life of the borgo (historic old town). They live in genuine former homes. They can go to the bar for a coffee and a chat with the locals. They can buy local products and take part in local festivals.” La Taverna, in Frosolone in Molise, is a good example. Visitors can participate in the transhumance festival in late May, when the drovers arrive with their herds of cattle on their 180 km trek through the mountains to
La Piana dei Mulini at Colledanchise in the Molise region.
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Il film di Miloš Forman vincitore di 8 Premi Oscar ® proiettato ad alta defi nizione con l’esecuzione dal vivo della colonna sonora
20 e 21 giugno 2018 ore 20.30 Orchestra e Coro dell’Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia direttore Ludwig Wicki Auditorium Parco della Musica Roma www.santacecilia.it/amadeus
Tourism the summer pastures. Frosolone was famous for centuries for its master smiths and metal workers, forging handcrafted knives and scissors. A few craftsmen are still in business, and there is an annual knife and scissors festival every August. You can also see demonstrations at the local museum (Museo di Ferri Taglienti). Again in Molise – Italy’s most underrated tourism area – La Piana dei Mulini at Colledanchise, 12 km from Campobasso, offers sojourns in a picture-book rural retreat, with accommodation in a charming old farming hamlet and a mill house suspended over the mill stream and spanned by a wooden bridge. A different kind of experience awaits visitors in the baroque jewel borgo of Scicli, near Ragusa (Sicily). The Scicli AD opened five years ago and receptionist Valentina is enthusiastic: “An albergo diffuso gives guests an experience that is out of the ordinary. They can feel they are part of the place and not simply observers. We promote a type of tourism that is the opposite of mass tourism.” Hopefully mass tourism will not overtake Scicli, although the town is bound to lure ever greater numbers of people. As well as being a listed UNESCO World Heritage site, it is one of the locations used in the popular Commissario Montalbano television series. Nearer to Rome is the Albergo Diffuso Specchio di Diana (Diana’s Mirror) in Nemi, Castelli Romani. This ancient inn, which Byron is believed to have visited, was transformed from a restaurant and pizzeria in 2012. The Specchio di Diana has two rooms inside the main building and five suites in apartments spread around the village. Nemi is a pretty village, perched on a spur of rock overlooking the little crater lake of Nemi, a well-known landmark in the days of the Grand Tour. The annual strawberry festival, held this year on 3 June, is a major event.
lovers and walkers. Most of them are couples and a good number are foreigners.” After the slow beginning, the formula is finally catching on. “There’s a growing demand for this type of accommodation,” Dall’Ara told Wanted in Rome. “Bookings last year were up 5 per cent.” One developer who has not been discouraged is Daniel Kilhgren, who has now branched out into his second property, this time in the unique troglodytic limestone crater of Matera. Work began in 2006 and finished three years later, yielding 18 luxury rooms in former cave dwellings overlooking the lunar landscape of the Murgia park. The Albergo Diffuso Le Grotte della Civita of Matera has been created with the same attention to detail that distinguishes the other Sextantio AD at S. Stefano. The Matera property includes an ancient deconsecrated rock church which can be used for candlelit private parties or romantic tête-à-tête dinners. “The AD model is now being developed in other countries such as Ireland, Japan, Switzerland and Croatia,” comments Dall’Ara. “We hope, however, that success won’t distort the spirit and nature of the initial concept and its aims.” Associazione Nazionale Alberghi Diffusi (ADI), tel. 3393709835, www.alberghidiffusi.it. Le Grotte della Civita in Matera.
Cecilia Di Onisi at the welcome desk is also pleased with the formula: “Before, we were registered as a Casa Vacanze (literally “holiday home”) and people only came for brief stays. As an albergo diffuso our guests have more contact with the owner and the people of the village. We mostly get people who are nature 7 | June 2018 • Wanted in Rome
Real Estate
BUYING A PROPERTY IN ITALY A GUIDE TO THE CONTRACTS AND TAXES INVOLVED IN PURCHASING A PROPERTY IN ITALY
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any people fall in love with Italy and dream about buying a home here. As in every country around the world, it is always a good idea to become familiar with the customs, laws and regulations about purchasing properties and the costs involved before getting started. In Italy, real estate agents receive a commission from both the buyer and the seller. This is different from many countries where often only the seller pays the realtor a commission. The commission can be between three to five per cent of the total sale + VAT (22 per cent,
8 | June 2018 • Wanted in Rome
Bonnie Rose-Zanni a mandatory tax added to the invoice). The Italian civil code states that realtors earn the commission when the offer has been accepted by the buyer, even if only verbally. The agent’s commission is usually paid on signing the preliminary contract. Another thing to be aware of is that in Italy there is no such thing as an escrow account; the money does not go into a separate account to be held and then released to the seller at the closing. Each money transaction goes directly to the seller. Everything is documented and the agent and the notaio (notary public) provide testimony of all of the transactions taking place.
Real Estate
When viewing properties it is wise to ask for the registered floor plans (planimetria catastale) to see if there are any differences between what the registrar’s office has on file and what is actually for sale. Your notary will often do this for you. It is relatively common to see differences from the registered floor plans; for instance, there may be an extra bathroom or bedroom in the property which is not visible on the official floor plans. This is important if the buyer has to request a bank loan to purchase the property, because the bank will send an inspector to the property. If there are any differences, the bank may not offer the full amount of the loan requested. If differences are discovered, for example if a previous owner has built an extension which does not show on the registered plans, then the buyer takes on the responsibility for any fines or administrative fees due if or when the undeclared modification comes to light, perhaps during a future sale. Once a buyer has chosen a property, a written offer must be made to the real estate agency’s office and should specify the purchase amount and the time-frame in which the buyer intends to make the payments. The agency must also inform the buyer if the seller has a mortgage on the property and, if so, how much is left to pay off. The buyer should also demand to see the visura catastale, the municipal document
showing proof of ownership. The buyer may also request to see the deed or title (atto di vendita). When making an offer, the buyer is required to leave a cheque for between €5,000 €10,000 depending on the sale price, which is a financial commitment on the buyer’s part to hold the property. This must be in the seller’s name and the agency keeps it until the offer has been accepted. At this point the buyer should have in writing the agency fees too. The offer should also have an expiration date, meaning that the agency will stop showing the property to other clients until that date. Once the offer has been accepted, the agent can give the cheque to the seller to cash, unless the buyer needs to request a bank loan or mortgage, and the sale is thus dependent on the outcome. It is to the buyer’s advantage to make sure the agent keeps the cheque until the bank has confirmed the loan. If the buyer pulls out of the deal, he/she forfeits the deposit; if the seller pulls out, he/she must pay the buyer double the amount of the deposit. The date for the preliminary contract (compromesso) is then scheduled. This can be done at the real estate agency or by a notary public. Generally, 10 to 20 per cent of the sale price is paid at this time. The preliminary 9 | June 2018 • Wanted in Rome
Real Estate contract should state that the deposit or down payment made on this day is a caparra confirmatoria, a term used as protection for the buyer. Before the preliminary date it is wise to ask for any additional documentation such as the official document from the municipal technical office (ufficio tecnico comunale) stating that the building has all of the permits required by law, or a statement from the building administrator confirming that all of the previous condominium expenses (ordinary and extraordinary) have been paid. Each party will have a signed copy of the preliminary contract which specifies all of the steps involved. The estate agent’s fee is paid on the day of the preliminary contract. The preliminary contract has to be registered at the municipal registrar’s office within 20 days and the costs to register the contract are paid by the buyer. At this stage, a date for the closing or settlement (rogito) is agreed upon. The buyer has to pay all the costs of the notary, which will depend on the sale price of the property and whether the notary is being used for both the preliminary contract and the closing or only the closing. If it is the buyer’s first property in Italy and the buyer is resident in Italy, the property tax owed is less than if the buyer already has other properties in Italy or is non-resident. The taxes change from time to time so it is wise to ask the agent. The property tax for a non-resident is higher, reaching as much as 10 per cent of the sale
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price. There are also other fees involved, so make sure you ask the agent what they are. Visit the Agenzia delle Entrate (government revenue department) website, www. agenziaentrate.gov.it, for costs for buying properties in Italy. (It is in Italian only, so you may need some help.) There is an area detailing official costs and tax relief in the section Agevolazioni per l’acquisto della prima casa. At the closing the buyer will sign the deed or title (atto di vendita), which must be registered within 30 days. The official deed is usually ready 45 days or so later. Note that if the buyer is not fluent in Italian, a translator may be required. In this case, Italian law specifies that the deed or title is in both Italian and English (or the buyer’s language) and that the translator is mentioned in the deed or title. The buyer may choose the translator or ask the notary to provide one. There will be additional costs involved. At the closing, the buyer will be given the keys to the property but will have to wait for the original copy of the deed or title before having full legal ownership of the property. Italian bureaucracy is very complicated, so it is advisable to use English-speaking professionals throughout the transaction. Zanni Real Estate, Via F. Menzio 30, tel. 0660670581 - 3358418861 - 3474009753, www.immobiliare.it/agenzie_immobiliari/Zanni_ Roma.html.
Real Estate
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Poetry
POETS’ ROME OVER THE CENTURIES ROME HAS INSPIRED NUMEROUS ENGLISH-LANGUAGE POETS
Martin Bennett
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overs of English poetry must often wonder what Keats would have made of Rome had he lived. But he died in terrible agony only three months after his arrival in November 1820 and hardly ventured much beyond Piazza di Spagna where he was lodging (now the Keats-Shelley House at no 26). We can only speculate what he might have made of the ruins, the light, the paintings, the people that so inspired others down the centuries, from Shakespeare to Brodsky. Rome’s link with poetry in English, however, remains an intimate one. As Ezra Pound praises Latin poet Sextus Propertius for bringing “the Greek dance to Italy”, so literary historians credit Sir Thomas Wyatt, courtier to Henry VIII, with bringing the Petrarchan sonnet to England, a spin-off of a 1527 diplomatic mission to Rome. Indeed, Wyatt, poet and aspiring lover, adopts and adapts Petrarch’s sonnet CXC to bewail, visà-vis his “deer”/dear Anne Boleyn, his own predicament: “There is written her fair neck round about Noli mi tangere for Caesar’s I am: And wild to hold, though I seem tame.” The same “Caesar”/Henry VIII would later imprison Wyatt in the Tower of London for treason, though, unlike poor Anne, he
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was spared execution through a last-minute reprieve. The sonnet form, after further adjustments by Wyatt’s follower and fellow sonneteer Henry Howard, Earl of Surrey, was ready – complete with iambic pentameter and closing couplet – to be handed on to Shakespeare. Rome, of course, appears – and how! – in the plays, such as Titus Andronicus, Julius Caesar, Coriolanus, and Antony and Cleopatra, with an authenticity to make Sicilian professor Martino Iuvara put the case that the Bard was Italian born and bred. Three decades after Shakespeare, the Catholic exile Richard Crashaw certainly did stay in Rome. The Oxford Anthology of English Literature cites the “controlled frenzy” of Crashaw’s 1648 poem, The Flaming Heart, celebrating St Theresa, a fitting match for Bernini’s statue in S. Maria della Vittoria sculpted in the same period. The 20thcentury literary critic Douglas Bush called Crashaw “the one conspicuous incarnation of Baroque sensibility”, of a particularly English variety, via of course Italy. Rome’s Baroque is later reprised in Robert Browning’s The Bishop Orders his Tomb at Saint Praxed’s Church. Thinking of his former mistress, a bishop from his deathbed addresses his “nephews”/sons, his envisaged tomb being an exercise less in spirituality
Poetry
Thom Gunn was inspired by Caravaggio’s Conversion on the Way to Damascus in the Cerasi Chapel of the church of S. Maria del Popolo.
than in ecclesiastical one-upmanship. The “nephews” evidently failed to take their dying father at his word to build the tomb. Visit St Prassede’s – “the church for peace” – and you’ll look for the tomb in vain. The artefact is a figment of Browning’s sumptuous, and somewhat mischievous, imagination. Unlike the still viewable Baroque Wall Fountain in Villa Sciarra, described with flowing intricacy by 20th-century American poet, Richard Wilbur. “It spills/ In threads from the scalloped faun ménage….// Happy in all that ragged, loose/ Collapse of water, its effortless descent/And flatteries of spray, / The stocky god upholds the shell with ease…’ And so on for a dozen delicately sculpted quatrains to do an old Baroque master proud. Anyone lucky enough to study A-Level English in the late 1960s will recall as set text Thom Gunn’s In Santa Maria del Popolo: “Waiting for when the sun an hour or less / Conveniently oblique makes visible / The painting on one wall of the recess.” State-of-the-art lighting now makes any wait to see Caravaggio’s masterpiece unnecessary. Gunn’s existential interpretation of the outstretched arms of Saul becoming Paul still sounds bleakly impressive: “the large gesture of solitary man, / Resisting, by embracing nothing.” It surely falls short, however, of Caravaggio’s intention. For balance here’s a translation of art critic Vittorio Sgarbi’s prose: “The fall is the miracle. Pride has
been humiliated and the man is at the mercy of the animal that could crush him at any moment. Yet this humiliation is the beginning of redemption.” Byron’s “Manfred” waxes duly reverential: “I stood within the Coliseum wall, / Mid the chief relics of almighty Rome; / The trees which grew along the broken arches / Were dark in the blue midnight, and the stars / Shone through the rents of ruin.” But the same poet’s Childe Harold can express a less conventional empathy for the monument’s victims: “I see before me the Gladiator lie: He leans upon his hand -- his manly brow Consents to death, but conquers agony, And his droop’d head sinks gradually low -And through his side the last drops, ebbing slow From the red gash, fall heavy, one by one, Like the first of a thunder-shower; and now The arena swims around him -- he is gone, Ere ceased the inhuman shout which hail’d the wretch who won. He heard it, but he heeded not -- his eyes Were with his heart, and that was far away; He reck’d not of the life he lost nor prize, But where his rude hut by the Danube lay, There where his young barbarians all at play, There was their Dacian mother -- he, their sire, Butcher’d to make a Roman holiday.” 13 | June 2018 • Wanted in Rome
Poetry
It wasn’t only foreign poets who were inspired by the Roman Forum, as illustrated by Turner’s View of the Forum, Rome, with a Rainbow (1819).
Meanwhile English poet Arthur Hugh Clough, visiting Rome during the 1848/49 uprising of the Roman Republic, complains in Amours de Voyage: “Rome disappoints me much…/ Rubbishy seems the word that most exactly would suit it,” sharpening the dose with, “Brickwork I found thee, and marble I left thee, their Emperor vaunted; / Marble I thought thee and brick I find thee, the Tourist my answer…” No romantic raptures here, though another section fizzles with the immediacy of a stop-press dispatch: “a National Guard close by me…. / Broke his sword with slashing a broad hat covered in dust – and / Passing away from the place with Murray under my arm, and / Stooping, I saw through the legs of the people the legs of a body…” Ruins mean different things to different people. Archaeology and immediate autobiography (the birth of a daughter) converge in the poem To the Roman Forum by New York poet Kenneth Koch: “I went down and sat and looked at the ruins of you / I gazed at them, gleaming in the half-night / And o my, My goodness, a child, a wife…// I thought I’d look at some very old great things / To match up with this new one...” Rome’s ruins and more ruins, but also and above all its light. Such that “On the threshold of heaven, the figures of the street / Become figures of heaven, the majestic movement / Of men growing small in the distances of space”, from the Wallace Stevens poem To an Old Philosopher in Rome. In the
poem Stevens attributes the perception to his former tutor George Santayana, whose last decade was spent on the Coelian hill, lodging in the convent of the Blue Nuns of the Little Company of Mary near the S. Stefano Rotondo church. If, around dusk or dawn, you happen to be in Rome’s Monti district, gaze down at the sun bouncing off the sanpietrini of Via Panisperna as it undulates toward Trajan’s Markets and one can replicate Stevens’ experience of growing small in distant spaces, or, by gazing upwards: “How easily the blown banners turn to wings.” Stevens’ celestial possible re-emerges in the following extract from Joseph Brodsky’s Roman Elegies (1981), written during the Nobel Laureate’s stay at the American Academy up on the Gianicolo: To translate, making allowances for rhyme, from an Italian translation of the original Russian: “I have been to Rome. I was drowned in light, / The way only a splinter can dream about; / A drachma of gold’s been placed across my sight. / It’s enough to see me through the longest night.” This an echo of “Go thou to Rome…” from Shelley’s Adonais, his elegy to John Keats buried in Rome’s Non-Catholic Cemetery. The Brodsky piece mirrors the lines three stanzas later: “The One remains, the many change and pass; / Heaven’s light forever shines, Earth’s shadows fly; / Life, like a dome of manycoloured glass, / Stains the white radiance of Eternity…” 15 | June 2018 • Wanted in Rome
to do
Sun Mon Tue Wed 3
4
5
First Sunday of the month means city museums are free today for Rome residents and state museums are free for all.
The Rome Chamber Music Festival opens to the public today at the beautiful Palazzo Barberini.
The Dorothy Circus Gallery presents surrealist artist Kazuki Takamatsu’s latest show For Tomorrow.
For an outdoor aperitivo try the terrace at LANIFICIO159 with barbeques, dj sets and games.
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Explore Rome’s Butterfly House, or Casa delle Farfalle, with your kids.
17 ART MUSIC FOOD NATURE CINEMA FAMILY THEATRE
24 Unwind with a yoga class at the beautiful RYOGA centres around Rome. Obtain 10 to 20 per cent off with your WiR card.
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Marvel at Giudizio Universale: Michelangelo and the Secrets of the Sistine Chapel. 10 per cent discount for WiR cardholders.
Don’t miss Björk perform her new album Utopia on her only stop in Italy at the Baths of Caracalla.
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Check out Rome’s new museum at Palazzo Merulana, dedicated to the early 20th-century collection of the Cerasi foundation.
Spend the day with your dog at Bau Beach near Fiumicino. WiR cardholders receive a 10 per cent discount on entry tickets.
Have a look around Palazzo Altemps, now exhibiting over 800 objects from the acclaimed Milan design studio Fornasetti.
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Try something exotic for Catch Pearl Jam perform at Check out the 11 new rooms and Borromini dinner at Ami Poke, the new Rome’s Olympic Stadium. staircase at Palazzo Hawaiian bar in Rome's Barberini for the Eco e Monti quarter. Narciso show.
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Head to Eataly for Viva la Rome commemorates Pasta, an event in honour of Festa della Repubblica the Festa della Repubblica. today with a military parade along Via dei Fori Imperiali.
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Villa Aperta is back for its eighth edition with live music in the evenings at Villa Medici.
An exhibition of more than 200 photographs titled L’altro Sguardo opens at Palazzo delle Esposizioni today.
Go along to Ponte Nomentano for the Beer Park Festival and try more than 100 types of beer from 20 different brewers.
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View the paintings of Turner at the Chiostro del Bramante. WiR cardholders receive a €2 discount.
Kick off the weekend with a free half-pint at Bukowski’s Bar in Borgo Pio. Bring your WiR card!
16 Ennio Morricone celebrates his 60-year long career with a concert at the Baths of Caracalla.
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Take advantage of the green parks this city has to offer and enjoy a stroll through Villa Pamphilj.
Former Oasis guitarist Noel Gallagher presents his solo project High Flying Birds at Auditorium Parco della Musica.
Head out to the cultural association Club Apres for delicious cocktails in Prati. Bring your WiR card for free entry.
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Get some errands done quickly by renting a scooter from Cooltra. Use your WiR card for a 30 per cent discount.
Get out of Rome and spend the day tasting typical Umbrian fare at Sagra dell’Oca in Orvieto.
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ROME'S MAJOR
MUSEUMS VATICAN MUSEUMS Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.
Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums
Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.
Crypta Balbi
Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.
Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia
Via Ni collect space.
Corso V collect closed
Palazzo Corsini
Castel S. Angelo Museum
MACR
MAXXI
Baths of Diocletian
Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.
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STATE MUSEUMS
Borghese Museum
Galler
Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed. Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00. Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.
Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.
Piazza ni.org. Nuovo the Pin groups
Museo
Museo
Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.
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Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale
Museo
Italy's museum of oriental art, formerly located on Via Merulana, is currently closed pending its reopening at Museo Nazionale Preistorico Etnografico Luigi Pigorini di Roma, Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.
Palazzo Altemps
Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.
Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.
Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine
Palazzo Barberini
Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.
Palazzo Massimo alle Terme
Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed. Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.
19 | June 2018 • Wanted in Rome
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CITY MUSEUMS
Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).
Centrale Montemartini
Museo Napoleonico
Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.
Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.
Capitoline Museums
Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.
PRIVATE MUSEUMS
Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun.
Casa di Goethe
Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna
Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.
Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it. Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Mon-Fri 10.00-20.00. Sat-Sun 10.00-21.00.
MACRO
Doria Pamphilj Gallery
MATTATOIO Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed. www.museomacro.org.
Galleria Colonna
Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. The city’s collection of contemporary art, plus temporary exhibition space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.
Museo Barracco
Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.
Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi
Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www.casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.
Chiostro del Bramante
Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00. Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.
Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, www.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.
Giorgio De Chirico House Museum
Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets
Keats-Shelley House
Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, www.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.
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20 | June 2018 • Wanted in Rome
Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking. Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www.keats-shelley-house.org. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours available on advance booking.
T H E M A P O F A R T I N I TA LY
ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY
ART GALLERIES
1/9 Unosunov
1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www. unosunove.com.
Fondazione Memmo
Galleria Lorcan O’Neill
Fondazione Pastificio Cerere
Galleria Marie-Laure Fleisch
Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.
Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www. ffmaam.it.
This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pastificiocerere. com.
Contemporary Cluster
Fondazione Volume!
A.A.M. Architettura
Visual art, design, architecture, fashion design and beauty apothecary in a 17th-century palace. Via dei Barbieri 7, www. contemporarycluster.com.
Dorothy Circus Gallery
Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.
Ex Elettrofonica
This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www. exelettrofonica.com.
Federica Schiavo Gallery
Hosts large solo and group shows of well-known contemporary artists. Piazza di Montevecchio 16, tel. 0645432028, www.federicaschiavo. com.
Fondazione Giuliani per l’Arte Contemporanea
The Giuliani Foundation for Contemporary Art is a private non-profit foundation that produces three contemporary art exhibitions each year. Via Gustavo Bianchi 1, tel. 0657301091, www. fondazionegiuliani.org. 22 | June 2018 • Wanted in Rome
The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www. fondazionevolume.com.
Franz Paludetto
Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto. com.
Frutta
This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via Giovanni Pascoli 21, tel. 06 68210988, www.fruttagallery.com.
Gagosian Gallery
The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel. 0642086498, www.gagosian.com.
Galleria Frammenti D’Arte
Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject. com.
High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www. lorcanoneill.com. This contemporary art space is dedicated to exhibiting works on paper. Via di Pallacorda 15, tel. 0668891936, www.galleriamlf.com.
Galleria PIOMONTI
Founded by gallerist Pio Monti, this gallery has promoted the work of major contemporary Italian artists since 1969. Piazza Mattei 18, tel. 0668210744, www.piomonti.com.
Galleria della Tartaruga
Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www. galleriadellatartaruga.com.
Galleria Il Segno
Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno. com.
Galleria Mucciaccia
Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www. galleriamucciaccia.com. Galleria Valentina Moncada This gallery holds exhibitions of international artists who are active in the international scene today. Via Margutta 54, tel. 063207956, www. valentinamoncada.com.
Galleria Varsi
A dynamic gallery near Campo de’ Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di S. Salvatore in Campo 51, tel. 0668309410, www. galleriavarsi.it.
Il Ponte Contemporanea
Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via di Panico 55- 59, tel. 0668801351, www. ilpontecontemporanea.com.
La Nuova Pesa
Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www. nuovapesa.it.
MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea
Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www. majartecontemporanea.com.
Magazzino d’Arte Moderna
Contemporary art galley that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www. magazzinoartemoderna.com.
Monitor
This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, tel. 0639378024, www.monitoronline. org.
Monserrato Arte ‘900
This gallery in the Campo de’ Fiori area represents a range of contemporary Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 14, tel. 3482833034.
Montoro 12
Gallery promoting work by contemporary Italian and international artists. Via di Montoro 12, tel. 0668308500, www. m12gallery.com.
Nomas Foundation
Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www. nomasfoundation.com.
Operativa Arte Contemporanea
A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.
Philobiblon Gallery
The Rome branch of this international franchise hosts exhibitions in addition to dealing in antique books. Via Antonio Bertoloni 45, tel. 0645555970, www.philobiblon.org.
Pian de Giullari
Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603, www. piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.
Plus Arte Puls
Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls. com.
RvB ARTS
Rome-based gallery specialising in affordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www.rvbarts.com.
Sala 1
This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.
S.T. Foto libreria galleria
Gallery representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.
Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri
The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.
T293
The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it.
The Gallery Apart
This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.
Tralevolte
This contemporary art gallery focuses on the relationship between art and architecture and hosts many solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www. tralevolte.org.
Valentina Bonono
Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works specifically for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www. galleriabonomo.com.
Wunderkammern
This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www. wunderkammern.net.
Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin
Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria offers a range of innovative national and international contem-porary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www. z2ogalleria.it.
23 | June 2018 • Wanted in Rome
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A unique experience through the history of rome
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24 | June 2018 • Wanted in Rome
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where to go in Rome
WHAT’S ON
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EXHIBITIONS L’ALTRO SGUARDO: FOTOGRAFE ITALIANE 1965-2018 8 June-2 Sept
More than 200 photographs and photographic books from the Donata Pizzi Collection, an extensive archive documenting the role of female Italian photographers from the mid1960s to today. The exhibition comprises photographs by about 70 Italian photographers from various generations and genres: from the pioneering works of Paola Agosti and Letizia Battaglia to more recent images by Silvia Camporesi and Gea Casolaro. The exhibition is divided into four sections including reportage and social reporting; links between photographic image and feminist thought; identity and relationships; and contemporary research based on photography’s expressive potential. Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Via Nazionale 194, tel. 0639967500, www. palazzoesposizioni.it.
KAZUKI TAKAMATSU: FOR TOMORROW 1 June-15 July
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Japanese artist Kazuki Takamatsu shows his latest series of works in a double exhibition at the Dorothy Circus galleries in Rome and London. The works on display, created using a mix of painting and digital art, feature the artist’s trademark imagery of ethereal girls in ghostly white against black backgrounds. Dorothy Circus Gallery, Via dei Pettinari 76, www.dorothycircusgallery.it.
ECO E NARCISO 18 May-28 Oct
To celebrate the opening of 11 new rooms at the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Antica at
Palazzo Barberini, the museum presents a series of portraits and self-portraits from its collection alongside contemporary works from the MAXXI Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI secolo. The exhibition, described as a dialogue between ancient and modern, is staged in the museum’s Salone Pietro da Cortona, the Sala Ovale and Sala dei Paesaggi, in addition to the 11 new rooms which overlook the palace gardens. Comprising 750sqm of exhibition space, the rooms were occupied by the Italian military’s officers club, whose hand-over to the museum concludes a saga dating back to 1949. Galleria Nazionale di Arte Antica di Roma - Palazzo Barberini, Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, www. barberinicorsini.org.
LUCA GRIMALDI: QUALCOSA DEL GENERE 18 May-8 June
The Ex Dogana in S. Lorenzo launches its new contemporary art gallery with an exhibition by young painter Luca Grimaldi whose work features every-day objects depicted in a fragmented, almost abstract fashion. Items from supermarket shelves and shop windows become almost unrecognisable in the paintings of Grimaldi who breaks his compositions down into simple form and colour, colour, creating images that are both familiar and foreign. Ex Dogana Galleria, Via dello Scalo S. Lorenzo 10, www. exdogana.com.
GEORGINA SPENGLER: THÀLASSA | OURANÒS 17 May-30 June
MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea presents Thàlassa | Ouranòs, an exhibition of ten diptychs by the Rome-based painter Georgina Spengler. Created with oil and
L’altro sguardo. Fotografe italiane 19652018 at Palazzo delle Esposizioni. Agnese De Donato. Donne non si nasce, si diventa. charcoal on wood, the works take their starting point from a colour stain which is then pressed onto another wooden panel to form the diptych. The ten works are described as conjuring an “aerial and abyssal” world whose skies are filled with “fantastically shaped clouds” while its seas contain “gorgons and creatures from the deep.” Works by Spengler featured on covers of Wanted in Rome In 2010 and 2011. MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea, Via di Monserrato 30, tel. 0668804621, www.majartecontemporanea.com.
RAFFAELE DE VICO (1881-1969) ARCHITETTO E PAESAGGISTA 16 May-30 Sept
Almost 100 works by Italian architect Raffaele de Vico (18811969) who is best remembered for his designs involving Rome’s public parks and fountains. The plans, photographs and documents on display, all from 27 | June 2018 • Wanted in Rome
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M A RY M O U N T
I N T E R N AT I O N A L S C H O O L R O M E
Part of the Global Network of Marymount Schools - Founded in 1946
Preparing Lifelong Learners and
Leaders of Tomorrow
Marymount International School Rome is a private, Catholic, Englishlanguage school starting from Early Childhood through Grade 12 (ages 3 to 18). Our Early Childhood and Kindergarten programs emphasize the importance of the whole child, developing the necessary learning, literacy and life skills required in order to be successful 21st century citizens in a global society. Students are immersed in a native-English speaking environment and are provided with enrichment opportunities through weekly classes in art, music, physical education, library taught and after-school activities taught by specialist teachers. To schedule a visit to our Early Childhood Center please contact: admissions@marymountrome.com - Tel. +39 06 3629 1012 www.marymountrome.org/Early_Childhood
Via di Villa Lauchli 180 00191 Rome www.marymountrome.org
STILL SHOWING CHARLES MARCH: FOTOGRAFIE 1980 - 2017 25 May-30 June
Sicilia, il Grand Tour by Fabrice Moireau at Palazzo Cipolla. Rome’s collections and archives, illustrate the urban and social transformation of Rome in the first half of the 20th century. Museo di Roma at Palazzo Braschi, Piazza di S. Pantaleo 10, www.museodiroma.it.
SICILIA, IL GRAND TOUR 8 May-22 July
Palazzo Cipolla presents an exhibition of about 400 watercolours by Fabrice Moireau, the celebrated French watercolourist who undertook a recent “grand tour” of Sicily. Moireau recorded views from Sicily’s archaeological sites, nature reserves, castles and small outlying islands, and his travels off the beaten bath are documented in accompanying texts by Lorenzo Matassa. Palazzo Cipolla, Fondazione Roma Museo, Via del Corso 320, tel. 066786209, www.fondazioneromamuseo.it.
DREAMERS 1968 5 May-2 Sept
Multimedia exhibition of photographs, newspaper front pages, magazine covers and archive footage commemorating the 50th anniversary of the street protests and civil rights marches that shook the world in 1968. Museo di Roma in Trastevere, Piazza S. Egidio 1B, tel. 065816563, www. museodiromaintrastevere.it.
PRIMAROSA CESARINI SFORZA 3 May-26 June
Multimedia exhibition of Galleria Arte e Pensieri presents Ogni immagine un racconto (Every picture a story), an exhibition by multidisciplinary artist Primarosa Cesarini Sforza. The works on display, which combine drawing, painting and embroidery, present the viewer with “a delicate, intense story, sometimes surreal, not always joyful.” Work by Cesarini Sforza featured on the 14 April 2010 edition of Wanted in Rome and see cover this issue. Galleria Arte e Pensieri, Via Ostilia 3a, tel. 3397092125.
GLI ARCHITETTI DI ZEVI 25 April-16 Sept
Under the subheading History and counter-history of Italian architecture 1944-2000, MAXXI celebrates the legacy of Italian architect Bruno Zevi on the centenary of his birth. The exhibition comprises literature, audio and video footage highlighting Zevi’s multifaceted work as historian, lecturer, designer, writer, politician, radio and television broadcaster. The show also examines the architects whose work he promoted, from Pier Luigi Nervi to Renzo Piano. MAXXI Museo nazionale delle arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4/a, www.maxxi.art.
Galleria del Cembalo hosts Italy’s first exhibition of works by Charles March, Duke of Richmond, who is described as a “photographer of extraordinary inventiveness.” The 90 images on display represent highlights from March’s recent exhibitions in St Petersburg, Moscow, New York, Los Angeles and London, as well as new work taken on the remote Scottish island of Jura. The exhibition also features advertising images alongside the artist’s highly original personal photographs, many of which are on a large-scale and have never been published. Galleria del Cembalo, Largo della Fontanella di Borghese 19, tel. 0683796619, www.galleriadelcembalo.it.
FRANCESCO CLEMENTE 18 May-3 aug
Galleria Lorcan O’Neill presents its third exhibition of work by New York-based Italian artist Francesco Clemente who was a central protagonist in Italy’s Transvanguardia movement in the 1980s. The exhibition features a selection of canvases from a body of recent paintings Clemente has made based on his reading of The King of Harlem, a poem by the Spanish poet Federico García Lorca. The paintings reflect the pain, joy, music, and liveliness of black culture in New York and in America in general. Galleria Lorcan O’Neill, Vicolo dei Catinari, tel. 0668892980, www. lorcanoneill.com.
FONDAZIONE MEMMO 4 May-11 Nov
Fondazione Memmo presents _ Ruine, the first solo show in Rome of German artist Kerstin Brätsch, and _KOVO, the exhibition of the collective KAYA (Kerstin 29 | June 2018 • Wanted in Rome
Kerstin Brätsch and KAYA at Fondazione Memmo. Brätsch and Debo Eilers). A new group of marbling paintings [Psychopompo] made with German master marbler Dirk Lange, is shown alongside stuccomarmo works by Brätsch, created in collaboration with the Roman artisan Walter Cipriani. KAYA’s site-specific _KOVO installation is described as a “violent collision between painting and sculpture” and comprises a series of lamps and skins. Fondazione Memmo, Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www. fondazionememmo.it.
artists of African descent, all of whom share a common interest in documenting the unknown and encounters with others. Through 34 works including paintings, sculpture, installations, video, photography and performance, the exhibition examines themes of “otherness” and of being the “other”. Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna, Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, www. gallerianazionale.com.
of the death of the great Venetian painter who revolutionised landscape painting, raising the genre to the same importance as historical and figurative painting. On display are 68 Canaletto works, including several masterpieces exhibited alongside the manuscripts detailing their commission. Museo di Roma at Palazzo Braschi, Piazza di S. Pantaleo 10, www.museodiroma. it.
LA DOLCE VITTI
ROMA CITTÀ MODERNA
8 March-10 June
29 March-28 Oct
VIAGGIO NEI FORI
Exhibition dedicated to Monica Vitti, the legendary Roman actress best known for her starring roles in films directed by Michelangelo Antonioni during the early 1960s. Organised by the Istituto Luce Cinecittà, the multimedia exhibition charts four decades of Vitti’s career through archive photographs and tributes from fellow stars of the silver screen. Teatro dei Dioscuri al Quirinale, Via Piacenza 1, www.cinecitta. com.
21 April-11 Nov
Two outdoor shows with music, light projections and historical commentary are held at Rome’s Forum of Caesar and Forum of Augustus every night. The Viaggi nell’antica Roma project uses light, images, film and animation to conjure up portrayals of life in ancient Rome, with historically accurate commentary available in eight languages. For details see website, www.viaggioneifori.it.
I IS AN OTHER | BE THE OTHER 20 March-24 June
The Galleria Nazionale shows the work of 17 contemporary 30 | June 2018 • Wanted in Rome
CANALETTO 1697-1768 11 April-19 Aug
Palazzo Braschi honours the Italian master Canaletto with the largest exhibition of Canaletto works ever held in Italy. The show celebrates the 250th anniversary
Rome’s municipal gallery of modern art traces the evolution of art in the capital from the time of mayor Ernesto Nathan (19071913) up to 1968, a turbulent year of social and political strife in Europe. The exhibition comprises around 150 paintings, sculptures and prints from the city collection. Galleria d’Arte Moderna di Roma Capitale, Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.galleriaartemodernaroma.it.
TURNER 22 March-26 Aug
The Chiostro del Bramate hosts an exhibition of works by the English Romantic painter, printmaker and watercolourist, Joseph Mallord William Turner (17751851). Organised in collaboration
with Tate Britain, the show includes more than 90 works by Turner, who is best known for his expressive landscapes and turbulent seascapes, often infused with literary or historical allusions. The exhibition includes sketches, studies, watercolours and a selection of oil paintings. Chiostro del Bramante, Arco della Pace 5, www.chiostrodelbramante. it.
HIROSHIGE: VISIONI DAL GIAPPONE 1 March-29 July
The Scuderie del Quirinale presents an exhibition dedicated to Utagawa Hiroshige (17971858), one of the most influential Japanese artists of the mid-19th century. The show features about 230 works, displayed in seven themed sections, alongside a parallel programme of Japanese cultural events. Scuderie del Quirinale, Via Ventiquattro Maggio, www.scuderiequirinale.it.
HUMAN+ 27 Feb-1 July
This cutting-edge exhibition features a range of installations exploring the future of our species. Raising the prospects of clones, hybrids, robotics and genetic engineering, the exhibition asks which enhancements we will choose to become better humans. Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Via Nazionale 194, tel. 0639967500, www.palazzoesposizioni.it.
KLIMT EXPERIENCE 10 Feb-10 June
This interactive exhibition provides a multi-sensory experience into the paintings of Austrian symbolist Gustav Klimt. Designed as an “immersive experience”, the show features virtual reality projections of Klimt’s best-loved works, including The Kiss, accompanied by a soundtrack and information about the ever-popular artist. Sala delle Donne, Complesso Monumentale di S. Giovanni
Dreamers: 1968 at Museo di Roma in Trastevere. Joan Baez sings at anti-war protest in Central Park in 1968. Getty Images. See page 29. Addolorata, Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano, www.klimtexperience. com.
LIU BOLIN: THE INVISIBLE MAN 2 March-1 July
Known as the “invisible man”, Liu Bolin has achieved international renown for camouflaging himself with paint to blend in with famous landmarks. Remaining motionless as a living sculpture, the Chinese artist incorporates elements of performance, painting and photography to “disappear” into the background. Complesso del Vittoriano, Via di S. Pietro in Carcere, www.ilvittoriano.com.
DIVERSO PER NATURA 22 Dec-30 June
Rome’s Museum of Zoology hosts an exhibition showcasing the biodiversity of the capital whose parks and ancient ruins provide a habitat for thousands of wild plants, insects, reptiles, birds and mammals. From turtles to falcons, foxes to parakeets, this exhibition tells the story of how wild animals have adapted to a city environment, how they live and even how they die. Via Ulisse Aldrovandi 18, www. myosotisambiente.it.
CITAZIONI PRATICHE: FORNASETTI A PALAZZO ALTEMPS 16 Dec-9 Sept
Rome’s Palazzo Altemps celebrates its 20th anniversary by presenting an exhibition in collaboration with the Milan design studio Fornasetti. The installation involves more than 800 objects and designs from the Fornasetti archive, ranging from assemblage to ceramic cats, contrasting with the museum’s magnificent collection of ancient sculpture. Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700.
TRAIANO: COSTRUIRE L’IMPERO, CREARE L’EUROPA 29 Nov–16 Sept
Major show dedicated to Emperor Trajan on the 1,900th anniversary of his death. On display are statues, portraits and architectural decorations, alongside multimedia and interactive installations. Mercati Traianei, Via Quattro Novembre, www.mercatiditraiano. it. See other exhibitions on our website www.wantedinrome.com. 31 | June 2018 • Wanted in Rome
ART NEWS NEW ROME MUSEUM AT PALAZZO MERULANA
A new museum hosting the important early 20thcentury art collection of the Cerasi Foundation opened at Palazzo Merulana in Rome’s Esquilino district on 11 May. The city-owned building on Via Merulana 121 – once the home of Rome’s health offices – has undergone a €5 million, threeyear restoration after lying abandoned for several decades. The public-private venture has entrusted the museum’s management to Coopculture, Italy’s largest cooperative operating in the heritage and cultural activities sector. The collection of Claudio and Elena Cerasi – of the prominent construction firm behind major projects such as the MAXXI Museo delle Arte del XXI secolo – comprises works by leading Italian artists such as Balla, Casorati, de Chirico, Depero, Donghi, Mafai, Pirandello and Sironi. There is a €4 entry fee for the museum but the ground floor, which houses sculpture and a coffee shop, can be visited for free. For full details see website, www. palazzomerulana.it.
GALLERIA BORGHESE DIRECTOR SUSPENDED
In a shock move the Italian culture ministry has suspended Anna Coliva from her post as director of Galleria Borghese pending an investigation into claims that she was absent from the museum during 41 working hours in 2014. Coliva denies charges of absenteeism and defrauding the public purse, claiming she was absent for work-related reasons and arguing that any time spent away from her desk was more than made up for in overtime. Her sixmonth suspension without pay came just weeks after the close of the hugely successful Bernini exhibition which generated €2.5 million for Galleria Borghese. As the gallery’s “super-director” Coliva has raised funds of over €12 million during her 12-year tenure and was the only museum director to survive the reforms of culture minister Dario Franceschini in 2016. An international online petition has been launched calling for her immediate reinstatement.
BERNINI’S S. BIBIANA LOSES A FINGER
Rome’s archaeological and fine arts superitendency has restored Gian Lorenzo Bernini’s S. Bibiana after
Cental salone of Palazzo Merulana.
the marble statue lost a finger as it was being returned to the church of S. Bibiana – located between Piazza Vittorio and Termini station – following the recent blockbuster Bernini exhibition at Galleria Borghese. The Bernini masterpiece was created between 1624 and 1626 on commission of Pope Urban VIII. In 2016 vandals snapped the tusk off Bernini’s marble Elephant and Obelisk sculpture outside the church of S. Maria sopra Minerva whose tomb of the Early Italian Renaissance painter Blessed Fra Angelico was vandalised in April this year.
ROME STREET ARTIST ASSAULTED
Prominent Rome street artist David “Diavù” Vecchiato and his assistant Giorgio Silvestrelli were assaulted while completing a mural in Quadraro recently. Located in south-east Rome, the suburb is best associated with anti-fascist resistance during world war two but in recent years has put itself firmly on the city’s street art map. Diavù’s mural – located on Via Decio Mure and commissioned by local city authorities – depicts a portrait of Sisto Quaranta who was among the 947 Quadraro residents deported by the Nazis to concentration camps in 1944. Quaranta was the last of the handful of men who made it back alive to Quadraro where he lived until his death last October aged 93. The mural in his honour was undertaken as part of M.U.Ro (Museo Urban di Roma), the open-air urban art museum established in 2010 by Diavù, who knew Quaranta personally. However this “latest act of violence” against street artists in the area, together with a sustained campaign of intimidation, has led M.U.Ro to move away from Quadraro after eight years and dozens of murals by artists from all over the world. The perpetrator of the violence is allegedly known to police and M.U.Ro has warned other cultural associations and guides to pay “close attention to their safety” if conducting street art tours in the neighbourhood. Andy Devane 33 | June 2018 • Wanted in Rome
34 | June 2018 • Wanted in Rome odoroki.it
ROMA • FIRENZE • MILANO • BRESCIA SERRAVALLE (AL) • MONTEBELLO
Rome Chamber Music Festival celebrates its 15th anniversary at Palazzo Barberini.
ISTITUZIONE UNIVERSITARIA DEI CONCERTI 1-8 June
CLASSICAL ROME CHAMBER MUSIC FESTIVAL 4-7 June
This chamber music festival, directed by Robert McDuffie, is held in Palazzo Barberini every June to give young world-class musicians a chance to perform in public and in magnificent surroundings. This year is the festival’s 15th anniversary and includes a programme of music by Dvorak, Rossini, Prokofiev, Handel, Vivaldi and Brahms. The opening night is by invitation only but the programme is repeated the following day. Unusually this year the last concert on 7 June includes tango, samba and bossanova music. There are also open rehearsals each day from 1-7 June. Palazzo Barberini, Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, www. romechanberusicfestival.com.
ACCADEMIA S. CECILIA JAN LISIECKI 7-10 June
The young Canadian pianist plays Chopin’s concerto no 2 conducted by Antonio Pappano. Also on the programme is music by Mozart and Lutoslavski performed by the S. Cecilia orchestra. Lisiecki, whose parents emigrated to Calgary from Poland, has already been compared to Maurizio Pollini and Arturo Benedetti Michelangeli. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.
CARMINA BURANA LES CITÉS DE LOVECRAFT 14-16 June
The S. Cecilia orchestra and chorus conducted by Krzysztof Urbanski perform Carl Orff’s Carmina Burana and the Italian premiere of Giullaume Connesson’s Les Cités de Lovecraft. The Connesson piece was first performed last year and was commissioned by the Netherlands Philarmonic Orchestra and the Orchestre National de Lyon where Connesson is composer in residence. He is among the most widely performed living French composers. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 3, www.auditorium.com.
AMADEUS LIVE
There are two concerts in the Note in Biblioteca series which bring this year’s IUC concert series to a close. On 1 June Manuel Caruso, piano, plays music by Chopin, Debussy and Scriabin at the Biblioteca di Villa Leopardi and on 8 June the Quartetto Liza plays music by Hayden, Gualandi and Grieg at the Biblioteca Flaiano. Biblioteca di Villa Leopardi, Via Makalle is in a secluded park off Via Nomentana. Biblioteca Flaiano, Via Monte Ruggero 39 is in Prati Fiscale off Viale Jonio.
CONCERTI DEL TEMPIETTO 12-21 June
There are two concerts on 12 and 21 June before the summer evening piano recitals get underway in July. The soloists of the Macedonian national orchestra perform on 12 June and Uruguay’s national day is marked on 21 June in conjunction with the Uruguay embassy. Sala Baldini, Piazza Campitelli 9, www.tempietto.it.
21-22 June
The S. Cecilia orchestra, conducted by Ludwig Wicki plays the Mozart and Salieri music in the Milos Foreman film Amadeus while the film is being screened. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www. auditorium.com.
Jan Lisiecki returns to S. Cecilia to play Chopin’s concert no 2.
There will be end-of-year and diploma performances by the students of all the orchestral instruments throughout June, with the youth orchestra, Juni Teen, performing on 28 June. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www. auditorium.com. 35 | June 2018 • Wanted in Rome
Björk performs at the Baths of Caracalla on 13 June.
ROCK, POP, JAZz ROMA SUMMER FEST
BJÖRK
PEARL JAM
2 June-1 Aug
13 June
26 June
The Roma Summer Fest presents concerts in the outdoor Cavea venue at the Auditorium Parco della Musica. The diverse programme of around 40 concerts began on 26 May with Arctic Monkeys and continues with Retape (2, 3 June), Patti Smith (10 June), Orchestraccia (17 June), Gigi Proietti (20, 23 June), Noel Gallagher’s High Flying Birds (22 June), LP and Tom Walker (26 June), OPI Ambrogio Sparagna (28 June), (Luca Barbarossa (29 June), Simple Minds (3 July), Stefano Bollani - Igudesman Joo (5 July), Francesco De Gregori (6 July), Snarky Puppy (7 July), Hollywood Vampires (8 July), Alanis Morissette (9 July), Franz Ferdinand & Mogwai (10 July), Ringo Starr (11 July), Ezio Bosso (12 July), Alex Britti (13 July), Chick Corea (14 July), Stefano Bollani Quintet (16 July), James Blunt (17 July), ORFF, Carmina Burana (18 July), Jethro Tull (19 July), Pat Metheny (20 July), Caetano Veloso (21 July), King Crimson (22 and 23 July), Ciajkovski Katia Buniastishvili (26 July), Steven Tyler & the Loving Mary Band (27 July), Sting and Shaggy (28 July) and closing with Bandabardò (1 Aug). Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via Pietro de Coubertin 30, www. auditorium.com. 36 | June 2018 • Wanted in Rome
Björk performs a concert as part of the Just Musical Festival at Rome’s Baths of Caracalla, in collaboration with Teatro dell’Opera di Roma. The concert will be the only Italian date on the Utopia tour of the Icelandic singer-songwriter whose eclectic musical style is exemplified in hits such as Army of Me, it’s oh so quiet, and Venus As A Boy. For tickets see TicketOne website, www.ticketone.it.
ROCK IN ROMA 20 June-19 July
Rock in Roma is the city’s summer festival dedicated to rock music. The festival is based at the Ippodromo delle Capannelle venue but there are several concerts taking place in other locations including Circo Massimo, Auditorium Parco della Musica and Ostia Antica. The 2018 line-up includes major rock, heavy metal and rap acts: The Killers (20 June), Jeff Beck (24 June), Megadeath (28 June), Macklemore (3 July), Coez (7 July), Hollywood Vampires (8 July), Cigarettes After Sex (10 July), Lo Stato Sociale (13 July), Roger Waters (14 July) and The Chemical Brothers (19 July). For full details including tickets see website, www.rockinroma.com. Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245.
Pearl Jam perform in Rome’s Olympic Stadium this summer, as part of the band’s 14-date European tour. A key exponent of the Seattle grunge movement, Pearl Jam was one of the most successful alternative rock groups of the 1990s. For tickets see Pearl Jam website, www.pearljam. com. Stadio Olimpico, Viale dei Gladiatori.
JAY-Z AND BEYONCÉ 8 July
Jay-Z and Beyoncé perform in Rome’s Olympic Stadium as part of their “On the Run II” stadium tour which includes 15 European venues. For tickets see TicketOne website, www.ticketone.it.
JOAN BAEZ 6 Aug
Legendary folk singer Joan Baez performs a concert at the Baths of Caracalla as part of her Fare Thee Well tour. No stranger to the Roman stage in recent years, Baez shot to fame in the 1960s as a champion of numerous causes, most notably peace and the anti war in Vietnam movement, performing in festivals such as Newport and Woodstock. For tickets see Ticketmaster website, www.ticketmaster.com.
Rodolf Nureyev’s choreogarphy of Don Chiosciotte at La Scala.
DANCE FLORENCE INAUGURAZIONE PALAZZINA DELL’INDIANO 29 June-1 July
Virgilio Sieni officially takes over the Palazzina dell’Indiano – recently restored by the city – as a centre for dance and the language of dance for a five year period. Italy’s top choreographer has organised workshops on gesture and nature, and exhibitions and demonstrations to mark the inauguration. Palazzina dell’Indiano, Piazzale dell’Indiano. Sieni is also organising Sfilato_ Ballo 1872 for people of all ages and without any dance experience to take part in a parade to mark the inauguration. The deadline for requests to participate is 10 June and rehearsals will be held on 18, 19 and 24 June. For information see www.virgiliosieni.it.
MILAN DON CHISCIOTTE 10-18 July
This is Rodolf Nureyev’s choreography of Don Chisciotte as part of the continuing homage of La Scala to the great Russian dancer and choreographer on
the 80th anniversary of his birth and the 25th anniversary of his death. This production is one of the hallmarks of the La Scala ballet company and has been in the company’s repertoire since 1980 when it was first danced by Nureyev and Carla Fracci. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.
ROME TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA BATHS OF CARACALLA ROBERTO BOLLE AND FRIENDS 18-19 July
Roberto Bolle and his guests dancing at the Baths of Caracalla has become a traditional event at the Teatro dell’Opera’s summer season.
ROMEO AND JULIET 27 July-4 Aug
This is the only ballet at the Baths of Caracalla this summer, with a new choreography by Giuliano Peparini to Prokofiev’s music with the ballet company of the Teatro dell’Opera. Peparini has already choreographed a very popular version of the Romeo and Juliet
story under the title Romeo e Giulietta – Ama e Cambia il Mondo. See also Rome festivals on page 42.
RAVENNA ERODIADE - FAME DI VENTO 1993-2017 18-19 July
Those who missed this work by Julie Ann Anzilotti in May can catch it at the Ravenna Festival. Originally staged in 1993 it is inspired by Stéphane Mallarmé’s unfinished poem Herodiade to music by Hindemith, Killmayer and Fähndrich. The set designs were created by Alighiero Boetti, an exponent of the Arte Povera movement just a few months before his death. The narrative follows Salome (here called after her mother Herodias as in Mallarmé’s poem to distinguish her from the usual stereotypes that surround the name Salome) in her solitude and despair after the beheading of John the Baptist and her eventual catharsis. The work is accompanied by the voice of Gabriella Bartolomei off scene. The mix of different artistic disciplines is the reason why it has been chosen for the Reconstruction Italian 37 | June 2018 • Wanted in Rome
Contemporary Choreography 80s and 90s (RIC.IC) project which was created in 2011 by the academic and critic Marinella Guattarini to preserve the history of Italian contemporary dance. The dates in the title mark the date of the original work and the date it was reconstructed. Teatro Alighieri, Via Mariani 2, www. ravennafestival.org.
APPARIZIONE BALLET NATIONAL DE MARSEILLE & ICK 29 June
Apparizione (or Appearance) is another joint work by choreographers Emio Greco and
Pieter Scholten who founded ICK Dans Amsterdam. It is the first part of a diptych inspired by Mahler’s Kindertotenlieder set to the poems written by Friedrich Rückert after the death of his two children. It explores the innocence and spontaneity of children the fine line between imagination and reality and the fragility of life. This is a work for seven dancers, a pianist and a children’s choir. The musical concept and transcription is by Franck Krawczyk. It is the Italian premiere of Appearance. The second part of the diptych, Disappearance, is scheduled for its world premiere this year. Teatro Alighieri, Via Mariani 2, www. ravennafestival.org.
TANGO GLACIALE RELOADED 1982-2018 1 July
This is another restaging within the Reconstruction Italian Contemporary Choreography 80s and 90s (RIC.IC) project. It is a historic piece by the then 22year old Mario Martone and has now been “reloaded” by a group of dancers and actors who were not born when the work was created in 1982. Here the interdisciplinary approach of the RIC. IC project is in the interaction of dance and theatre. Teatro Alighieri, Via Mariani 2, www. ravennafestival.org. Rodolf Nureyev’s choreogarphy of Don Chiosciotte at La Scala.
THEATRE LIVING TOGETHER 5-10 June
The Rome Savoyards & Plays in Rome present the comedy Living Together [corsivo] from Alan Ayckbourn’s popular The Norman Conquests [corsivo] trilogy that covers a hilariously traumatic family weekend in an 38 | June 2018 • Wanted in Rome
English country house from the vantage point of three different rooms. Living Together covers the action taking place in the living room. Directed by Sandra Provost, the cast includes Gabrielle Chiararo, Jonathan Hedley, Edmund Zengeni, Fabiana De Rose, Frank Baj, Gina Ferrarin. 5-8 June 20.30. 9-10 June 17.30. For tickets tel. 3478248661 or email playsinrome@yahoo.com. Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, (Prati), www.teatrosangenesio.it.
ROME’S COMEDY CLUB 22 june
Rome’s Comedy Club its last show before the summer at the Makai Surf and Tiki Bar in Ostiense/Piramide area. The €15 entrance fee includes aperitivo, a beer or glass of wine. Doors open at 20.00, with the show starting at 21.30. Bookings (by text only, no calls) via Whatsapp 3397514140 or email makairoma@gmail.com. Makai Surf and Tiki bar, Via dei Magazzini Generali, 4/a/b/c.
A world class education in the heart of Rome St. Stephen’s International Day & Boarding School
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Isola del Cinema returns to Tiber Island this summer.
festivals CINEMA IN PIAZZA 1 June-8 Sept
The free open-air film festival formerly known as Festival Trastevere Rione del Cinema leaves behind its Trastevere base at Piazza S. Cosimato for a new venue nearby, as well as two new destinations in Rome’s suburbs. The Cinema in Piazza programme divides its time between the 1,100-sqm courtyard in the J.F. Kennedy high school on Via Dandolo 106, the Porto Turistico di Roma marina in the Ostia coastal district and the Casale della Cervelletta in the far-eastern suburb of Tor Sapienza. At the time of going to print the programme was not released but organisers told Wanted in Rome that festival-goers could look forward to 200 films, all screened in their original language with Italian subtitles or, if in Italian, with English subtitles where possible. For details see Il Cinema in Piazza Facebook page.
ISOLA DEL CINEMA 7 June-2 Sept
Now in its 24th year, this quality
cinema event lights up the Isola Tiberina in the middle of the river Tiber each evening over the summer. The 2018 edition of this multifaceted festival includes screenings, encounters and discussions with important figures from the world of film. Its programme comprises films by emerging directors, independent cinema, documentaries, and major international productions, including films screened in their original language versions. For details see website, www.isoladelcinema.com.
INTERNATIONAL LITERATURE FESTIVAL 7 June-3 July
Letterature – Festival Internazionale di Roma is held at the Basilica di Massenzio in the Roman Forum on numerous evenings over four weeks. The popular initiative celebrates the written word with a host of international authors who are invited to write a text inspired by a chosen theme, which this year is Il Diritto / Il Rovescio: The inexhaustible stream of words, composed especially for the event. The 17th edition of the annual
literature festival features a lineup of award-winning Italian and international authors who will read from their work, supported by actors and live music. The international aspect of the programme includes Margo Jefferson, Tara Westover, Glenn Cooper, Ayad Akhtar and Michael Zadoorian from the US; Ayelet Gundar-Goshen from Israel; Paul B. Preciado from Spain; and Olivier Guez from France. Entry is free but tickets must be picked up before the readings begin, from 20.00, at a booth near the entrance. Tickets are provided on a first-come first-served basis, and readings start at 21.00, with access to the Basilica from 20.30. In addition to the Roman Forum venue, there are parallel events in libraries and at the Casa delle Letterature, including an exhibition with previously unseen works by the late artist Maria Lai who represented Italy at the 2017 Venice Biennale. Clivo di Venere Felice, www.festivaldelleletterature. it. 41 | June 2018 • Wanted in Rome
Roma incontra il Mondo Festival at Villa Ada.
FESTIVAL DI CARACALLA 13 June-6 Aug
This year the Teatro dell’ Opera’s outdoor summer festival at the Baths of Caracalla includes two operas, two ballet performances and various concerts. The two operas are a new production of La Traviata directed by Lorenzo Mariani (3-20 July) and last year’s Carmen directed by Valentina Carrasco (14 July-2 Aug). Roberto Bolle and friends dance their annual performance on 17-18 July and the main dance event is Prokovief’s Romeo and Juliet (27-4 Aug). It is a new production by Giuliano Peparini, pupil of Roland Petit at the Ballet National de Marseille. He has numerous choreographies to his name and has extensive experience in television in Italy and France. In 2016 he produced a new version of Lo Schiaccianoce for the Rome opera. The music programme features concerts by Icelandic singersongwriter Björk (13 June), Italian jazz musician Paolo Conte and his orchestra (14-15 June), composer Ennio Morricone with his 60 years of Music tour (16-18 June), American singer-songwriter James Taylor & his All-Star Band plus special guest 42 | April June 2018 2018 ••Wanted Wantedin inRome Rome
singer-songwriter Bonnie Raitt (23 July) and American folk star Joan Baez (6 Aug). For details see Teatro dell’Opera di Roma website, www. operaroma.it.
VILLA ADA: ROMA INCONTRA IL MONDO 15 June-1 Aug
The 24th edition of Rome’s annual world music festival returns to the shores of the little lake in the gardens of Villa Ada this summer. The programme begins on 15 June with Noyz Narcos and continues
with Giancane (16 June), Frah Quintale (23 June), Galeffi (3 July), Godspeed you! Black Emperor (4 July), Reverend Horton Heat Pschobilly Holy Day Fest (11 July), Bud Spencer Blues Explosion (12 July), Chinese Man (14 July), Little Steven and the Disciples of Soul (17 July), Gogol Bordello (19 July), New York Jazz Ska Ensemble (22 July) and Ministry (1 Aug). The festival area opens each night at 20.00 so that the public can enjoy food and drink from the ethnic food stalls before the music kicks off at 22.00.
Margo Jefferson reads at Rome International Literature Festival. See page 41.
Wayne Marshall returns to the Ravenna festival to conduct the Orchestra Giovanile Cherubini.
FESTIVALS IN ITALY MAGGIO MUSICALE FIORENTINO 5 May-15 July
Ai confini della libertà is the theme of this year’s Maggio Musicale Festival which involves 70 institutions in 45 different locations throughout Tuscany. Unusual operas take pride of place and and dance returns to the festival again. On 3-5 June there is the world premiere Infinita tenebra di Luce commissioned by Maggio Musicale by Adriano Guarnieri inspired by Rainer Maria Rilke poems. This is followed on 19 June (also on 21 and 23 June) by Zubin Mehta conducting a reworking of Luigi Dallapiccola’s composition Il Prigioniero/Quattro pezzi sacri, seven decades after it was written. The first original version to be produced in modern times of the baroque work La Daphne composed by Marco da Gagliano in 1611 is on 2729 June conducted by Federico Maria Sardelli and directed by Gianmaria Aliverti. On 13 July Riccardo Muti will conduct a concert version of Verdi’s Macbeth to celebrate the 50 anniverary of his debut at Maggio Musicale. If you miss the concert in Florence you can catch it again on 15 July
in Ravenna (see also Ravenna festival). www.operadifirenze.it. See also Opera Notes page 46.
RAVENNA FESTIVAL 1 June-22 July 23 Nov-2 Dec
The multi-disciplinary Ravenna Festival lives up to its reputation yet again this year with a demanding programme of concerts, chamber music ensembles, sacred and profane music, dance, lectures and opera. This year the festival marks 50 years from the killing of Martin Luther King with the In the Veins of America section and a talk on the ideas and modernity of the great Afro-American civil rights activist on 5 June in the Chiostro Biblioteca Classense. The first major concert in June is conducted by Wayne Marshall on 4 June with the Orchestra Giovanile Cherubini In The Veins of America series, with music by Ravel, Bernstein and Gershwin. Valery Gergiev conducting the Mariinsky Theatre orchestra on 8 June is certain to be popular. Terry Riley’s In C considered one the first masterpieces of minimalism (Veins of America) is on 12 June. There is a tribute to Leonard Bernstein on 16 June to mark the centenary of his birth, conducted
by Dennis Russel Davies (Veins of America) with music by Bernstein and Glass. The multi-ethnic Piazza Vittorio orchestra performs its composition of A wooden island on 23 June. Throughout June there are vespers and liturgies in the churches and basilicas of the city (see In Tempo Domini and The Vespers of S. Vitale). There four concerts in the 100 Electric Guitars series on 19-22 June. There are also concerts of music from Aleppo (15 June) and Cyprus (17 June). America and Italy is again linked in the two concerts called The Blues of the Deltas from the Mississippi to the Po on 23 and 24 June. The other theme of the festival is the importance of the lyre dedicated to role the instrument has played in music from biblical times onwards, with music by Alfred Schittke, Arvo Pärt and Ukrainian composer Valentyn Sylvestrov, who is this year’s guest artist. There is one musical, Kiss me Kate, on 7-9 June and one opera in concert form, Macbeth, conducted by Riccardo Muti on 15 July. Then in November there are three operas, Nabucco, Rigoletto and Otello. Throughout the summer festival there is a tribute to Dante by young artists every morning at the 43 43||April June 2018 • Wanted in Rome
poet’s tomb in the Antichi Chiostri Francescani which features local and international performance artists in preparation for 2021, the 700th anniversary of the poet’s death in Ravenna in 1321. The Roads of Friendship concert this year is dedicated to Ukraine (it is dedicated to a different city or country each year) with Riccardo Muti conducting the Ukrainian National Opera orchestra playing music by Copeland and Verdi on 3 July. See Dance on page 37 for the dance events. All details about the festival are on the wellconstructed website where it is possible to search by date, location, genre, www.ravennafestival.org.
TRASIMENO FESTIVAL 29 June-5 July
The short music festival is now in its 14th year with evening concerts on and around Lago Trasimeno. The week-long festival is organised by Canadian pianist Angela Hewitt with concerts every night, as well as guided tours of the region to such places as Assisi, Perugia, Todi and Gubbio. Hewitt plays in all the concerts with several chamber concert groups
and soloists. The idea behind the festival is to offer excellent classical music in beautiful but intimate surroundings. For the detailed programme of concerts, music and locations see www. trasimenomusicfestival.com.
VERONA FESTIVAL 23 June-1 Sept
The operas at Verona’s lovely arena this summer are Carmen 22-31 Aug, Aida 23 June-1 Sept, Turnadot, 30 June-26 July, Nabucco 7 July-18 Aug, Il Barbiere di Siviglia 4-30 Aug. Bizet’s Carmen is a new production by Hugo de Ana for the Arena di Verona, with Francesco Ivan Ciampa conducting the Arena di Verona orchestra and ballet. Aida is the Franco Zeffirelli production conducted by Jordi Bernacer alternating with Daniel Oren and Andrea Battistoni. Puccini’s Turnadot is also a Zefirelli production with Oren and Ciampa conducting. Nabucco is last year’s production by Arnaud Bernard. The production of Rossini’s Barbiere is the 2007 Hugo de Ana version, conducted
by Oren and Battistoni. Roberto Bolle and friends will dance on 25 July. www.arena.it.
OTHER FESTIVALS STARTING IN JUNE SPOLETO FESTIVAL 29 June-15 july
Once one of Italy’s most prestigious, inter-discipinary festivals limps on, but there was no programme at the time of going to press. So keep an eye on the website for information. As Spoleto is close to Rome it is always worth a visit, even just for the end-of-festival concert performed in front of the magnificent duomo. www. festivaldispoleto.com.
RAVELLO FESTIVAL 30 June-25 aug
Combines top-quality orchestral concerts, chamber music, solo performances and an interesting dance progamme. www. ravellofestival.com.
Angela Hewitt organises the Trasimeno festival in Umbria each year.
44 | June 2018 • Wanted in Rome
Puccini’s La bohème in the Alex Olle production at Teatro dell’Opera di Roma.
MILAN TEATRO ALLA SCALA AIDA 8 May-3 June
Verdi’s opera, conducted by Daniel Oren, celebrates the 95th birthday of Franco Zeffirelli with his legendary 1963 production. Kassimira Stoyanova sings the part of Aida, her third Verdi role at La Scala. Fabio Sartori and Marcelo Alvares alternate in the role of Radamės. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.
opera
SCHUBERT’S FIERRABRAS 5-30 June
Daniel Harding conducts the first production of Schubert’s opera Fierrabras at La Scala. Schubert’s operas, which have often been neglected, were given a new lease of life by the late Claudio Abbado. This is Peter Stein’s production for the 2014 Salzburg festival which returns to the Austrian festival again this summer. Anett Fritsch sings the role of Emma and Bernard Richter that of Fierrabras. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.
ANNA CATARINA ANTONACCI 17 June
The Italian belcanto soprano gives a recital of music by Respighi, Poulenc and Hahn. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.
FIDELIO 18 June-7 July
Beethoven’s opera is conducted for the first time by MyungWhun Chung in this production by Deborah Warner. She created it for the opening of the 2014 La Scala season when it was conducted by Daniel Barenboim. Simone Schneider sings Leonore and Stuart Skelton takes the role
of Florestan. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.
IL PIRATA BY BELLINI 29 June-19 July
The last time this Bellini opera was staged at La Scala was in 1958 when Maria Callas took the lead role. This new production, in conjunction with the Teatro Real in Madrid and the San Francisco Opera, is conducted by Riccardo Frizza and directed by Emilio Sagi, an expert in staging Rossini, Bellini and Donizetti belcanto operas, with Sonya Yoncheva as Imogene. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.
rome LA BOHÈME PUCCINI 13-24 June
This is the last opera before the Teatro dell’Opera starts its summer season at the Baths of
Caracalla. There will be only two operas this year, Carmen and La Traviata. See Festivals in Rome section page 42 for more details. This production of La bohème, which was first staged at Turin’s La Regia theatre in 2016 to mark the 120th anniversary of Puccini’s opera, is directed by Alex Olle, artistic director of La Fura dels Baus. He sets it against a modernday background of anonymous apartment blocks on the city outskirts. Although the setting is modern his production has been described as “substantially a traditional staging, only brought up to date.” The production, which also played at the Edinburgh festival last summer, is part of the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma’s young artist programme to new talent. The part of Mimi will be sung by Anita Hartig and Victoria Yeo as well as Louise Kwong from the young artists’ programme. Henrik Nanasi and Pietro Rizzo alternate as conductors. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Giglio 1, www.operaroma.it. 45 | June 2018 • Wanted in Rome
OPERA NOTES BOLOGNA
Al Teatro Comunale di Bologna va in scena Don Carlo di Giuseppe Verdi (6-14 giugno): opera della maturità artistica del compositore, incentrata sul conflitto tra libertà e ragion di stato e pervasa di profondo pessimismo. Ebbe la sua premiere all’Opéra di Parigi l’11 marzo 1867 in lingua francese con il titolo Don Carlos, ma la sua prima in lingua italiana, con il titolo mutato in Don Carlo, fu proprio nel teatro bolognese il 27 ottobre 1867. Diciassette anni più tardi per le recite alla Scala di Milano Verdi revisionò l’opera, riducendo a quattro gli originari cinque atti e apportando numerosi tagli e modifiche, tra le quali lo stringato e “metafisico” finale, assolutamente sorprendente. È in questa versione che Don Carlo adesso ritorna a Bologna, sul podio salirà Michele Mariotti, il giovane direttore musicale del Teatro Comunale preparato e sensibile e in continua ascesa. Di cantanti di successo e di altri avviati ugualmente a promettenti carriere è formato il cast vocale: Dmitry Belosselskiy (Filippo II d’Asburgo), Roberto Aronica (suo figlio Don Carlo), Maria José Siri (Elisabetta di Valois, moglie di Filippo ma amata anche da Carlo), Luca Salsi (Rodrigo, amico fraterno di Don Carlo), Veronica Simeoni (La principessa d’Eboli, rivale di Elisabetta perché innamorata di Carlo, ma senza essere corrisposta) e Luiz-Ottavio Faria (Il Grande Inquisitore, che gestisce le vite e i destini di tutti). www.tcbo.it.
FLORENCE
Continua la programmazione del LXXXI Festival del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino con Il prigioniero di Luigi Dallapiccola (19, 21 e 23 giugno), che ebbe la sua prima al Teatro Comunale di Firenze il 20 maggio 1950. L’esito fu contrastato con accese polemiche. Composto tra il 1944 e il 1948 Il prigioniero allude alla situazione politica nell’Europa di quegli anni, con particolare riferimento alle leggi razziali. Racconta di un prigioniero torturato e ingannato dal Grande Inquisitore (siamo nella Spagna di Filippo II d’Asburgo) cui viene fatto credere che le porte del carcere si aprono per renderlo libero, quando invece sono soltanto la via d’accesso al patibolo. Dopo un intervallo al Prigioniero seguiranno pagine di altissima religiosità e di notevolissima scrittura: QUATTRO PEZZI SACRI, che possono considerarsi il testamento spirituale e artistico di Giuseppe Verdi, sono Ave Maria per coro a cappella, Stabat Mater per coro e orchestra, Laudi alla Vergine Maria per coro di soprani e contralti a cappella e Te Deum per doppio coro e orchestra. La regia di questo dittico sarà del coreografo Virgilio Sieni, come direttore d’orchestra è annunciato Zubin Mehta, ma la sua presenza non è certa perché, afflitto da problemi di salute, sta cancellando tutti gli impegni presi. Nella Grotta del Buontalenti, situata nei Giardini di Boboli a Firenze, andrà in scena La Dafne di Marco da Gagliano su libretto di Ottavio Rinuccini (25, 27 e 29 giugno). È una delle prima opere liriche a essere composta, ebbe la sua première nel Palazzo Ducale di Mantova nel gennaio 1608, in contemporanea con Claudio Monteverdi che vi faceva rappresentare la sua opera Arianna, su libretto ancora di Ottavio Rinuccini. La Dafne di Marco da Gagliano fu data in seguito nel 1611 a Firenze in forma privata, in casa di Don Giovanni de’ Medici. È questa versione che adesso viene data per la prima volta in tempi moderni a Firenze. Lo spettacolo prevede la regia di Gianmaria Aliverta e la direzione Federico Maria Sardelli alla guida del complesso barocco Modo Antiquo. www.operadifirenze.it. Paolo Di Nicola Il Prigioniero by Luigi Dallapiccola in a recent production for the Brussels Opera.
46 | June 2018 • Wanted in Rome
The Villa Aperta line-up at Villa Medici includes Brigitte. Photo Sophie Ebrard.
ACADEMIES AMERICAN ACADEMY IN ROME
FRENCH ACADEMY OF ROME
Yto Barrada - The Dye Garden. This exhibition features new work by acclaimed Franco-Moroccan multimedia artist Yto Barrada who is known for her exploration of the landscape, geology and botany of north Africa in the context of the colonial and post-colonial eras. In her Rome exhibition Barrada traces the origins of the colours used in the natural dyes in tapestries and textiles, prior to the introduction of artificial dyes, uncovering a “complex set of exchanges linking East and West.” Her exhibition draws on the tapestries representing the triumphs of Roman general Scipio Africanus, Paul Klee’s “discovery” of abstraction in Tunisia, and gardens in Roman ruins. American Academy in Rome, Via Angelo Masina 5, tel. 0658461, www.aarome.org.
The eighth edition of Villa Aperta, the electro, pop and rock music festival at Villa Medici also features talks, projections, video art and aperitifs at sunset. The line-up contains numerous big-name international acts and is centred on the collaboration between musicians, composers, visual artists and writers. Its theme Calling for a new Renaissance is an appeal to artists “to experiment, to mix the arts, to change the world through culture”, according to curator Cristiano Leone. Villa Aperta opens with a talk by the Nobel Prize-winning novelist and playwright Gao Xingjian, and concludes with Rone, a leading French music producer and electronic musician. In between there are performances by Alvin Curran, Brigitte, Flavien Berger, Fred Firth, Joakin, L’Imperatrice, Julian Ribot, Tiger & Woods, Pedro Winter alias Busy P, Jacques and MYD, Flavien Berger, Xavier Veilhan and Agents of Time. Tickets cost €15 per evening while a three-day pass costs €30. Villa Medici, Viale della Trinità dei Monti, www.villamedici.it.
10 May-8 July
BRITISH SCHOOL AT ROME 15-23 June
The British School at Rome launches its Fine Arts June Mostra on Friday 15 June from 18.3021.00. Exhibition of works by current Fine Arts award-holders at the BSR. Mon-Sat 16.30– 19.00. British School at Rome, Via Gramsci 61, tel. 063264939, www.bsr.ac.uk.
7-9 June
KEATS-SHELLEY HOUSE 4 May-30 June
The Keats-Shelley House presents
Spirit of Place, an exhibition by London artist Louisa Albani, to mark the 200th anniversary of the publication of Mary Shelley’s Frankenstein. Albani has created a collection of graphic works exploring Shelley’s life leading up to – and following – the creation of her gothic horror masterpiece. Keats-Shelley House, Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.org.
SWISS INSTITUTE OF ROME 22 March-1 July
Skulptur/ Fotografie is a solo presentation by renowned contemporary Swiss artist Roman Signer. Born in 1938, Signer works in a variety of disciplines such as sculpture, drawing, happening, installation-work, photography and video. He is best known for his ephemeral time sculptures, abstract works with themes connected to nature, transformation and movement. Signer’s show at the Swiss Institute includes sculptures and photographs from different stages of his career, with a particular focus on his early black and white photographs which document his action/sculptures. Istituto Svizzero di Roma, Villa Maraini, Via Ludovisi 48, www. istitutosvizzero.it. 47 | June 2018 • Wanted in Rome
lassical
The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a definitive list of all the music that is available in the city. There are also concerts in many of the churches and sometimes in the museums. Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season starts on 15 Oct Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All concerts at Auditorium Parco della Musica. The new season starts on 5 Oct Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone.com RomeConcerts, Methodist Church, Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it Roma Sinfonietta, Auditorium Ennio Morricone, Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are at Teatro Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others are at the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Roma Tre, Via Ostienze 234, www.r30.org There are often concerts, festivals and opera recitals in several churches in Rome. All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, www.allsaintsrome.org Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7 St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Piazza Navona Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com 48 | June 2018 • Wanted in Rome
MUSIC THEATRE CINEMA VENUES
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MUSIC THEATRE CINEMA DANCE OPERA
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The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for weekly updates. Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 Barberini, Piazza 0686391361
Barberini
24-26,
tel.
Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. 068553485 Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. 066861068 Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 Odeon, Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361 Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. 06892111 Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111
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Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it
Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano www.teatrovascello.it 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it
Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it
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Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.
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Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it
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Concert venues ranging from major pop and Alexanderplatz, ViatoOstia tel.acoustic 0683775604 rock groups jazz 9, and gigs. www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 AngeloAlexanderplatz, Mai Altrove,ViaVia delle Terme di www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org Angelo Altrove, Atlantico Via delle271d, Terme di Atlantico, VialeMai dell’Oceano Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it
Atlantico, Viale dell’Oceano Atlantico Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de271d, tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com Auditorium della Musica,55, Viale Casa del Jazz, VialeParco di Porta Ardeatina tel. P. de Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com 06704731, www.casajazz.it
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Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it
heatre heatre
Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com 159, Via diMerry Pietralata Live Lanificio Alcazar, Via Cardinale del Val159, 14, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com Alcazar, Cardinale Merry deltel. Val 14, MonkLive Club, Via Via Giuseppe Mirri 35, tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com 0664850987, www.monkroma.it Monk Club,Piazzale Via Giuseppe Mirri PalaLottomatica, dello Sport 1, 35, tel. tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it
Piazzale dello1245, Sporttel. 1, tel. Rock PalaLottomatica, in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com
Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it www.teatrobelli.it www.teatrosangenesio.it Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, Teatrowww.teatrobelli.it Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsiwww.teatrosangenesio.it www.teatrobrancaccio.it stina.it Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsiTeatrowww.teatrobrancaccio.it Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 stina.it www.teatroghione.it www.teatrovascello.it Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 Teatrowww.teatroghione.it India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. www.teatrovascello.it 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it 49 | June 2018 • Wanted in Rome
LEARN ITALIAN IN ROME
Group and individual lessons
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www.torredibabele.com TORRE DI BABELE Via Cosenza, 7 - 00161 Roma +39 06 44252578
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Gnocchi con sugo di salsiccia e spuntature By Kate Zagorski "Giovedì gnocchi" as the local saying goes, and indeed it is a long-standing tradition that in Rome Thursday is the day of the week officially dedicated to the consumption of these light potato dumplings. Although many restaurants and tavole calde prepare fresh gnocchi for their daily menus, they are surprisingly simple to make at home, requiring just a little forethought to boil the potatoes and a little care to first gauge the correct consistency of the dough and then to avoid overcooking. Bad, overcooked gnocchi are sticky and sloppy but great gnocchi are a feather-light delight that melt-in-the-mouth. Once mastered, gnocchi are a great match for many accompaniments, from a simple sugo of tomato and basil to more elaborate variations with seafood or cheese sauce. However, taking the time to make this thick, satisfying, slow-cooked sauce with sausage and pork ribs will not only create a perfect pairing for the gnocchi but may also yield enough extra leftovers to drizzle over fresh fettuccine or creamy polenta the next day. This recipe is perfectly paired with a full-bodied, rounded red such as a good Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, try the Testarossa Rosso from the Cantina Pasetti.
Ingredients for 4 people For the souce: ½ onion 1 carrot, 1 stick celery, 1 clove garlic 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 4 pork spare ribs and 4 pork sausages Half a glass white wine 700ml passata di pomodoro Salt and pepper
For the gnocchi: 500g potatoes (of equal size) 250g flour ‘00’ 1 egg Handful of grated parmesan Nutmeg Pecorino Romano, to serve
To make the sauce: Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan, finely chop the onion, carrot and celery and cook gently along with a whole, peeled garlic clove and a sprinkling of salt on a medium flame for 5 minutes until soft. Prick the sausages with a fork and add to the pan along with the ribs. Cook for a further 15 minutes, turning frequently to brown on all sides. Pour in the white wine and simmer for 4-5 minutes until the alcohol has evaporated. Add the passata, stir well and season with salt and pepper. Cover and cook on a low heat for an hour, stirring occasionally to ensure the fat from the meat is incorporated into the sauce. To make the gnocchi: Place the whole potatoes in a saucepan and cover with cold water. Bring to the boil and cook for 30-40 minutes until just soft (test with fork, it should easy push through the skin). Drain and leave until just warm enough to handle then remove the skins and mash in a large bowl. Add the flour, parmesan, a good grating of nutmeg and a pinch of salt, then beat the egg and pour into the mixture. Stir together well and use your hands to bring everything together into a dough. Knead the dough until smooth and compact (be careful not to overwork the mixture or the gnocchi will become too hard when cooked). If the mixture feels too wet add a little extra flour, too dry and add a drop of water. Sprinkle a little flour onto a work surface, divide the mixture into four equal parts and, still using your hands, roll each into a sausage shape about 2 cm thick. With a sharp knife cut into lengths about 2cm long to create the gnocchi shapes. Place the gnocchi on grease-proof paper and sprinkle with a little more flour. When ready to cook, boil a big pan of salted water and gently add the gnocchi, when they rise to the surface (about 2-3 minutes) scoop them out with a slotted spoon and add to the gently bubbling meat sauce. Mix well and serve immediately with a good sprinkling of Pecorino Romano on top.
Parks around Rome
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This park was originally the home of King Victor Emmanuel III during the first half of the 20th century. It now houses the Egyptian embassy and consulate. The park is also a training ground for athletes, a concert stage for music-lovers, and a haven for locals from all that is hectic. The park hosts the long-running Incontra il Mondo festival of world music each summer. Its landscape is partly wooded and there is a lake with canoeing. In addition, the park’s 67m-high Monte Antenne gives hikers a panoramic view as well as access to an archaeological site which uncovered the ruins of an 1870 fort. Area: Salario.
PARCO DEGLI ACQUEDOTTI
This 240-hectare green space, tucked in the Appia Antica regional park, is known for possessing over half of the 11 major ancient Roman aqueducts and it takes around two hours to walk the whole network. The park's Villa Vignacce was built between the second and fourth centuries AD most likely by the brick-maker Q. Servilius Pudens. You can even see Pudens’ stamp on some of the bricks, a rarity as buildings were usually constructed so the stamps were not visible. Another architectural highlights is the Casale di Roma Vecchia, a house-tower that was likely used as part of a coaching inn during the 13th century. There is also the burial chamber of the “tomb of a hundred steps” along with some of Via Latina’s paving stones. Area: Appia Antica.
52 | June 2018 • Wanted in Rome
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PARCO DELL'APPIA ANTICA
This wedge-shaped piece of land stretches over an impressive 3,400 hectares, and encompasses the rural estates Tormarancia and Farnesiana, Tor Fiscale’s green area, the Caffarella valley and 16 km of the ancient consular road, as well as various natural and man-made attractions. Its location adjacent to the Alban Hills makes it a biological hub and a favourite place for nature lovers. The park is closed to private traffic but can be explored by taking numerous bicycle and walking tours. In additon to the Caffarella valley, the principal sites include the Porta S. Sebastiano, Cecilia Metella, Circo di Massenzio, and a ride up Via Appia Antica. Other places of interest are the Museo delle Mura, the church of S. Urbano, the Basilica of St Sebastian and its catacombs, the St Callixtus catacombs, the Circus and Villa of Maxentius, the Mausoleum of Romulus, the Caetani Castle, and the Villa Quintili and aqueduct. Area: Appia Antica.
VILLA BORGHESE
Founded on 85 hectares and five centuries of history, Villa Borghese stretches from Via Veneto to the heart of Parioli. It began as a 16th-century vineyard until Pope Paul V’s nephew, Cardinal Scipione Borghese, made it a private park. The Borghese family handed over ownership of the park to the city in 1903. The Pincian hill, or Pincio, is located on the edge of Piazza del Popolo, and offers stunning views of the capital.
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Pincio's gardens and staircases were laid out in 1809-14 according to designs by Giuseppe Valadier. Bikes and rickshaws can be rented throughout the park which contains the city's zoo, known as the Bioparco. It also plays host to one of the biggest equestrian events in Rome each May at the Piazza di Siena. The park is best known for housing the Galleria Borghese, home to one of the world's finest art collections with sculptures by Bernini and Canova, and paintings by Caravaggio, Correggio, Raphael and Titian. There is also another museum in the park's orangery: the Museo Carlo Bilotti, Aranciera di Villa Borghese, whose collection includes 18 works by de Chirico. The park contains a recreation of Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre which stages an annual Shakespeare festival; the state-of-the-art Casa del Cinema which screens Italian classics and holds foreign film festivals; and the world’s smallest cinema, the Cinema dei Piccoli. There is also a small artificial lake, known as the laghetto, where visitors can go boating. Area: centre.
VILLA PAMPHILJ
Comprising 184 hectres, this is Rome's largest landscaped public park. Located in the Monteverde district, the park is divided in two by Via Leone XIII, with numerous entrances on the surrounding roads. One of the best-preserved villas, the Villa Pamphilj house was recently restored for government receptions. Purchased by Pamfilio Pamphilj in 1630, the estate was later developed by Pope Innocent X who commissioned the architects Algardi and Grimaldi to design a larger villa, which was completed in 1647. The Italian state purchased part of the land in 1957 and, after numerous additional acquisitions, opened the park to the public in 1972. There is the Casino del Bel Respiro, which hosts international meetings and state receptions; the Garden Theatre, designed for outdoor performances; and the Villino Corsini, which is the seat of the Casa dei Teatri. You can also see the Aqua Traiana aqueduct which now supplies the many fountains in the park, the Fontanone on the Gianicolo as well as fountains in Trastevere. The Vivi Bistrot cafè and restaurant is located in the heart of the park and there are numerous walking trails and bike paths. Area: Monteverde.
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The Villa Sciarra is located on the slopes of the Janiculum. The villa changed hands many times, and was given its current title when it was acquired by the Colonna di Sciarra family in 1811. It was severely damaged during the 1849 fighting between Garibaldi and the papal forces at Porta S. Pancrazio nearby. In 1902 a wealthy American couple, George Wurts and Henriette Tower, reassembled and restored the estate and renovated the house in the neo-renaissance style. After Wurts’ death, Tower donated the villa to the Italian state as a public park in 1932. The 70,000 sqm-estate, which hosts the Italian Institute of Germanic Studies, features exotic examples of topiary shaped to resemble animals and a garden representing the months of the year. One of Rome's smaller and lesser-known parks, the villa can be accessed at Via Dandolo 47. Area: Monteverde.
VILLA CELIMONTANA
This 110,00-sqm park is situated between the Colosseum and the Baths of Caracalla. In 1553 the Mattei family purchased the land, to construct a villa, and subsequently created the beautiful garden, decorated with exotic plants, bas-reliefs and rich historical artistry. Designed by Michelangelo’s student, Giacomo del Duca, the villa boasts 16th-century fountains, a neo-gothic temple and an obelisk dedicated to Egyptian pharaoh Rameses II, which is rumoured to hold the ashes of Emperor Augustus. Confiscated by the Italian government during world war one, the property is now the home of the Italian Geographical Society and is open to the public. The park can be entered from either Piazza SS. Giovanni e Paolo or from Piazza della Navicella. Area: Celio. Villa Glori sits on a hill between the districts of Parioli and Flaminio and looks down over the Auditorium Parco della Musica. The park is dedicated as a memorial for all Romans who have given up their lives for Italy. In 1867, a battle took place in Vincenzo Glori’s vineyard, where the Cairoli brothers led 70 fighters against the papal troops. The pope’s forces defeated the rebel group and the scattered survivors fled to join Garibaldi’s army. In 1923 Rome decided to make the park a memorial park to all the victims of world war one, later re-dedicating the park to all Romans who died for their country. Area: Parioli.
53 | June 2018 • Wanted in Rome
Rome's reputation as an important street art capital continues to grow with new murals by important Italian and international street artists appearing all the time. Most of the works are located in the suburbs, often far from the centre. Here is where to find Rome’s main street art projects and murals. Esquilino Murals by Alice Pasquini, Gio Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Diamond. Casa dell'Architettura, Piazza Manfredo Fanti 47. Marconi The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo Gestito dai Rom), a project by French street artist Seth is located in a former soap factory on Via Antonio Avogadro, opposite Ostiense's landmark Gasometro. For details see www.999contemporary.com. Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz This former meat factory in the outskirts of Rome is now a street art museum as well as being home to some 200 squatters, many of them migrants. The Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz, or MAAM, is only open on Saturdays, and features the work of more than 300 artists including Edoardo Kobra, Gio Pistone, Sten&Lex and Diamond. See MAAM Facebook page for details. Via Prenestina 913.
Via Fanfulla da Lodi. 2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio. Blu Landscape by Sten & Lex. Via Francesco Baracca. Prati Anna Magnani portrait by Diavù. Nuovo Mercato Trionfale, Via Andrea Doria. Daniza the bear by ROA. Via Sabotino. Primavalle The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via Cristoforo Numai. Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo. Quadraro Tunnel murals by Mr THOMS and Gio Pistone. Via Decio Mure. Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte. Via del Monte del Grano. Baby Hulk by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89. Rebibbia Murals by Blu. Via Ciciliano and Via Palombini (Casal dè Pazzi). Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Metro B station.
Ostiense Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Porto Fluviale. Fish’n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale. Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali. Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense.
S. Basilio SanBa features large-scale works on the façades of social-housing blocks in the disadvantaged north-east suburb of S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regeneration project includes works by Italian artists Agostino Iacurci, Hitnes and Blu alongside Spain's Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, Via Treia.
Pigneto Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.
S. Giovanni Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.
54 | June 2018 • Wanted in Rome
It’s a New Day by Alice Pasquini. Via Anton Ludovico. S. Lorenzo Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli. Feminicide mural by Elisa Caracciolo. Via Dei Sardi. Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159. Mural by Agostino Iacurci on the Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia. S. Pietro Uma Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione di S. Pietro, Clivo di Monte del Gallo. Testaccio Hunted Wolf by ROA. Via Galvani. #KindComments by Alice Pasquini, Via Volta, Testaccio market. Tor Pignattara Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta. Etnik. Via Bartolomeo Perestrello 51. Coffee Break by Etam Cru. Via Ludovico Pavoni. Tom Sawyer by Jef Aerosol. Via Gabrio Serbelloni. Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Galeazzo Alessi. Herakut. Via Capua 14. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Tor Marancia The Big City Life scheme features 14-m tall murals by 22 Italian and international street artists including Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia and Jerico. The idea was to transform the area's blocks of flats into an open-air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. For full details see website, www.bigcity.life.it.
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Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.
55 | June 2018 • Wanted in Rome
Osteria La Gensola, Piazza della Gensola 15, tel. 0658332758 Cru.dop, Via Tuscolana 898, tel. 0676909916 Campisi, Viale Somalia 116, tel. 068606634 Orlando, Via Sicilia 41, tel. 0642016102 Da Benito e Gilberto al Falco, Via del Falco 19, tel. 066867769 Pesci Brilli, Via Ancora 43, tel 0644249846 Livello 1 – Fish and Cocktail, via Duccio di Buoninsegna 25, tel. 065033999 Molo 10, Via dei Prati della Farnesina 10, tel. 063336166 Trattoria del pesce, Via Folco Portinari 27, tel. 0695945393 Ottavio, Via di S. Croce in Gerusalemme 9, tel. 067020520 Osteria 140, via dei Banchi Vecchi 140, tel. 0687656724
Indirizzi
Il Sanlorenzo, Via dei Chiavari 4/5, tel. 06.6865097
The best fish restaurants in Rome Finding a trattoria or restaurant that serves fish but isn’t pretentious, kitsch or overpriced is always pretty tricky. We have put together the following list, choosing what we consider to be the best fish restaurants in Rome to suit a variety of budgets. IL SANLORENZO – Historic centre Here you can probably eat the best, but also the most expensive, fish in Rome. The prices are sky high, but there is a tasting menu for €85 and also the “pesci poveri” menu for €65. LA GENSOLA – Trastevere There’s nothing particularly unusual about this place but the cooking is comforting and the ingredients are always of the highest quality. There are three rooms which are always totally packed and the kitchen serves dishes blending traditional Roman and Sicilian cuisine. CRU.DOP – Cinecittà Not exactly a restaurant but a laboratory where the talented Nestor Grojewski prepares fantastic raw fish dishes. Near Cinecittà, Cru.dop is a small place but the dinner is well worth the money (especially in comparison to many better known fish restaurants). CAMPISI – Quartiere africano Those who have been to the Sicilian fishing village of Marzamemi know that the Campisi family sell the best, and also most expensive, sea food. A few years ago they also added this fish restaurant in Rome's African quarter. ORLANDO – Porta Pinciana If you ever have a sudden urge for delicious Sicilian cooking, Orlando is your place. On the menu you’ll find traditional southern Italian dishes with a contemporary twist. For antipasti we recommend the tartare or the anchovies prepared four different ways: stuffed and then baked, in a fish cake, rolled up with herbs or marinated. DA BENITO E GILBERTO AL FALCO – Vaticano Lively and modern, small but cosy, Da Benito e Gilberto al Falco has been popular since 1976, with new generations giving it a new lease of life. You should start with oysters and then taste the pasta and beans with sea food, or the linguine with lobster, and then try the prawns in white wine.
PESCI BRILLI – Piazza Fiume A trattoria serving sea food that’s been open since 2016, Pesci Brilli has hit the nail on the head with its relaxing ambience and simple, stylish furnishings and a menu that is not trying to do anything too complicated. LIVELLO 1 – EUR It’s not easy to find a good fish restaurant in EUR. Livello 1 is the exception. Some examples of its dishes include: tuna tartare in crunchy pasta with tomato jelly, burrata and basil oil, or barbequed scallops with white bean cream, chopped tomatoes and salicornia (sea beans). MOLO 10 – Ponte Milvio Near Ponte Milvio but at a safe distance from the noisy crowds, is Molo 10, a modern fish restaurant with a nautical vibe and a covered outdoor area. The array of antipasti will amaze you, both for the sheer quantity and quality of the produce. LA TRATTORIA DEL PESCE – Monteverde One of our favourites. When the trolley with three tiers of raw fish (€30) arrives, it’s always a magical moment. All the dishes are served with the utmost care and with great attention to detail, using the highest quality ingredients. OTTAVIO – San Giovanni One of the best fish restaurants in Rome, you can’t afford to miss a visit to Ottavio. It might be very traditional, but if you like fish, and enjoy eating in elegant surroundings among diners who are worryingly passionate about fine cuisine, then this is the place for you. OSTERIA 140 – Historic centre Two minutes away from Campo de’ Fiori, this small osteria serves creative seafood, meat and vegetarian recipes. Daniele Mannis and Giancarlo Mura are always there to advise on the best wines to pair with the dishes.
www.puntarellarossa.it
Accommodation vacant in town LIVE IN THE HEART OF TRASTEVERE! Live in the beautiful downtown area of Trastevere, where there are great restaurants, nightlife, shopping and always something going on! Newly restored delicious bright apartment, 2nd floor, 60 sqm, spacious bedroom, large living room with couch with separate cooking area and other bed in mezzanine floor, bathroom with large shower, furnished and completely equipped (washing machine, microwave, pots and pans, tableware, bed linen,blankets, etc.). Independent heating, air conditioning, fast speed WI-FI internet. No lift. Condo Terrace. Available from July 2018. Contact scpsas@ gmail.com. MANZONI AREA Garden apartment renting, six months minimum at €800 a month. Contact: dellascala4@gmail.com. VIGNA CLARA - GIOCHI DELFICI 25 sqm studio apartment. Bedroom, kitchen, bathroom, completely furnished. €550 monthly, all included. Please call 3467882036. CLODIO AREA Clodio area, very well connected, unique, newly-renovated, totally independent, charmingly furnished, one room loft on 9th floor with lift and spectacular view of Rome. Immediately available for rent at €850/month, inclusive of condominium, all utilities, TV, WiFi, A/C, independent heating. Armourprotected door, double bedroom with kitchenette and bathroom with shower. Suitable for one single lady, non smoker, no pets. Only one month or longer periods welcome. On request photos can be provided via Whatsapp only. If interested tel. Silvia 3314442244. TUSCOLANA PIAZZA RAGUSA Piazza Ragusa - Nice apartment, in perfect condition, fine finishes, semi-furnished, available, on the 3rd floor, living room with open kitchen, hall with built-in wardrobe, two bedrooms, (one with wardrobe, the other one with safe and soundproof wall), bathroom with tub and gas boiler for the production of sanitary water, little balcony €320.000 Fidia real estate, tel. 0639736426 fidia@fidiaimmobiiare.it. TRASTEVERE Independent on a private courtyard. Living room, kitchenette, bedroom, bathroom with shower, completely furnished and provided with linen. Close to all public transport and shops. Long and short term rents. Contact marilu_vitali@yahoo.it. STYLISH APARTMENT NEAR TERMINI 1250 square meters apartment in Via Marghera (Piazza Indipendenza) completely renovated and fully furnished. CLASSIFIED DEADLINE DATES Date di scadenza 20 June 22 Aug PUBLICATION DATES Giorno di pubblicazione 2 July 3 Sept
58 | June 2018 • Wanted in Rome
Air conditioning, ADSL. Livingroom, bedroom, kitchen, bathroom, big cupboards in the corridor. Could be eventually shared between 2 people. Located at the same distance from metro A (Termini) and metro B (Castro Pretorio). Contact marie.romiti@gmail.com. TRASTEVERE WITH GARDEN AND FIREPLACE. 180 sqm and 80 sqm garden, high ceilings, fireplace, large living room, furnished, AC, WIFI. Contact sinnesinne@ hotmail.com. PIAZZA DI SPAGNA 60 sqm. Living room, double-bedroom, kitchen, bathroom, view, refurbished, furnished For rent: Company. Temporary. Studio-home. Contact mv.miceli@gmail.com.
Accommodation vacant out of town COTTAGES TO RENT Two attractive cottages. One €500, other €600. With garden, olives and vineyard. Beautiful green surroundings. Zagarolo Village nearby train station. 25 min to Rome. Tel. 3477037894. drroversi@gmail.com. IN VILLA OVERLOOKING LAKE BRACCIANO Fabulous views, flat w/ big living-dining room, 1 bedroom, full bath, kitchenette, terraces, parking, huge garden, Trevignano Romano, available after 8 Aug, tel 3406165748. TIVOLI - MANDELA 19th century tower, completely restored 90 sqm furnished / unfurnished apartment with entrance, 2 bedrooms, living room, bathroom, kitchen, €350 + €40 condominium. 50 km from Rome, two apartments in old castle, completely restored, living room, 2 bedrooms. Unfurnished. €310 + 40 condominium. Other: 3 bedrooms, living room, dining room, 2 fireplaces, 2 bathrooms, balcony, terrace. €450 + 40 condominium. Tel. 066786400. fedel@email.it.
Holiday accommodation APARTMENT NEAR SIENA (TUSCANY) 80 sqm apartment in Sarteano (Siena) in residential area on the hill (600m) in proximity toll-gate Chiusi/Chianciano of Highway A1, near Siena and Florence. Description: 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, 1 dining room, kitchen + individual garage with individual washing machine. Apartment is total furnished. The price for July 2017 and September 2017 is €450 at week. Contact rincettielisabetta@yahoo.it.
Jobs vacant HOTEL SECRETARY We are looking for a female with excellent knowledge of English and German for a secretarial position within our 4-star hotels in the heart of Rome. Please send your CV to remix81@hotmail.com.
WANTED IN ROME DOES NOT ACCEPT RESPONSIBILITY FOR THE CONTENT OF THE ADVERTISEMENTS IT PUBLISHES. Wanted in Rome does not accept jobs vacant ads that discriminate on the basis of age, race, nationality, gender or religion. Via di Monserrato 49, 00186 Roma – Tel./fax 066867967 advertising@wantedinrome.com - www.wantedinrome.com
FREE CLASSIFIEDS must be submitted on our website, www.wantedinrome.com Free ads are downloaded and published in the magazine space permitting.
PRESTO TOURS RECRUITING FOR SALES POSITION Presto Tours is seeking a kind, caring person to join our sales team in Rome. If you think you have what it takes to promote high end, boutique tours of Italy, we welcome you to send us your resume to sales@prestotours.com. Position is commission based. HOUSEKEEPER REQUIRED Housekeeper required Tuesday and Thursday 09.30-12.30. Aventino. Well referenced. Simple cooking duties included. Contact Sig.ra Francesca, tel. 3314843616. TOUR OPERATOR IS LOOKING Tour operator is looking for outgoing English, Spanish, German speaking people to give info and assistance to tourists in the Colosseum area. Working time from 09.0014.00. Contact mackhugs@gmail.com. ENGLISH TEACHER WANTED Seeking qualified English mother-tongue teacher to tutor trilingual 11-year-old boy twice a week. Contact ritacristofari@ gmail.com. COMMUNICATIONS AND DEVELOPMENT ASSISTANT (PART-TIME). The ideal candidate will be bilingual (spoken, written and reading) in English and Italian, hold a Bachelor’s Degree (Minimum Requirement) and have 2-5 years experience in communications, marketing or fundraising. For a full description of this position, please visit our website under employment. Interested candidates should send an application no later than 1 September 2017. Contact mcallan@ aosr.org. ESTABLISHED ENGLISH SCHOOL SEEKING Established English School seeking qualified English mother-tongue teachers for children aged 3-12. Must have valid working documents. Please send your CV to aurelia@ angloamericankids.it. TOUR PROMOTER Tour Operator seeks highly motivated individuals, energetic and able to work independently as well as in a team. We are looking for promoters to sell Colosseum tours. We require fluency in one or more of the following languages: English, German, Spanish, Russian and Chinese. Potential for great money. You’ll be working in an international environment and in a friendly atmosphere. Basic sales training provided. Contact walczakmagda@gmail.com. HOW TO LIVE & WORK SUCCESSFULLY IN ITALY! Coming in October 2017. For details, please visit www. damienofarrell.com/events/ or tel. 3393332547. INTERNATIONAL B2B MARKETING & SALES SUPPORT You can spend your summer teaching, babysitting, or in travel sector. Or, you can come to our offices, learn, train, earn and have fun working with some of the most international high-tech companies in the world; Here Maps, VMware, trivago, and others! Seeking native English, German, Swedish, Czech, French, and others! Support our Clients Sales and marketing teams with prospecting, database enriching and lead qualification. Be part of a team with training and management. Flexible hours. Competitive wages. Send your CV to jobs@3d2b.com. Must have work or student visa for Italy. SOCIAL MEDIA CONSULTANTS Experienced bloggers, experts in Photoshop & InDesign, & Website Designer/Developer wanted for freelance projects. Send résumé to damien@damienofarrell.com.
SECRETARY POSITION Secretary for an International school. The ideal candidate must be bilingual (English / Italian) with strong organizational, communication and interpersonal skills; able to work well under pressure and use technology efficiently and effectively with 3-5 years of office experience in related position. Italian/EU citizen or valid permit of stay required. Please email detailed CV to info@aosr.org. FLUENT ENGLISH SPEAKERS/BILINGUAL ITALIANENGLISH Language School in Ostia looking for fluent English speakers/ bilingual Italian-English to teach Young Learners and Very Young Learners. CELTA - CELTyl - TEFL preferred but not required. Send CV to info@playwithgaby.it https://www. facebook.com/playwithgaby/. DIRECTOR OF DEVELOPMENT St Stephen’s School, Rome has an opening for a Director of Development. Major responsibilities include fundraising, producing major gift and donor support, managing a planned giving program, organizing event fundraising, developing and maintaining parent, alumni, faculty and staff relations, creating communications, financial reporting, and database and records management. Position involves travel four times a year to the U.S. Bachelor’s degree or equivalent required; Master’s degree preferred. Minimum 5 years development experience. Send cover letter, CV and statement of personal philosophy in PDF by 15 June to eric.mayer@sssrome.it (subject line “Development Director Job Application”). For a complete description of the job, click the following link; http://sssrome.it/vacancies/job/Development/director-ofdevelopment. RELOCATION LOCAL COUNSELOR Principal Relocation Company seeks freelance local counselors to accompany corporate clients to public offices, view properties, etc. in Rome. Own transport is necessary. CV to careers@principalrelocation.com ref: LC-RM. ASSOCIATE PRODUCER WANTED (TEMPORARY). Mother tongue English speaking Associate Producer wanted for a production company in Rome starting 12 June for 4 weeks. Contact brandobqp@gmail.com. ENGLISH BUSINESS TRAINER The Language Grid seeks motivated EMT trainers to work in a business environment. Offering part-time and full-time positions on long term contracts with paid holiday, bonuses & benefits. Opportunity for career development. Apply via email: info@thelanguagegrid.com with CV, photo & cover letter. info@thelanguagegrid.com.
Lessons ITALIAN LESSONS Certified Italian teacher with a wealth of experience offers second language lessons for individuals, groups and for help with thesis revision. Alessia 3497816160 italianofacilepertutti@gmail.com. FRENCH QUALIFIED TEACHER Need to learn French for fun, business or culture? English, Italian, Spanish speaking. Loves teaching, your house or mine. Please leave telephone number or email. Tel. 3299823826; f.bessoles.rm@gmail.com.
Poetry CHANGING SONG I don’t want to run after terrorism anymore, I don’t want to run after bad governs anymore. I want just a little stop. Ma guarda un pop. sernicolimarco@gmail.com.
59 | June 2018 • Wanted in Rome
POLIZIA LOCALE Once upon a time the eternal city, asphalt, transport, rubbish, public utility, urban decay, unemployment, traffic, cost of living; what to say to Campidoglio? Roma esci dar coma. sernicolimarco@gmail.com. FIRENZE HAS STOPPED Like a gift received from the sky, your aspect, your courtesy, your education, your seriousness and the way you played soccer. We will not forget this. In alto i nostri cuori rivolti a Davide Astori. sernicolimarco@gmail.com. 4 MARCH 2018 I should have written more but it doesn’t matter; ladies and gentlemen da Milano a Bari “ oggi so’ cavoli amari.” sernicolimarco@gmail.com. BALL Like a shoot at goal never done, like a qualification never achieved, like a Sweden never defeated. Italy soccer team won’t take part to the Russia world competition. Coach Ventura che fregatura. sernicolimarco@gmail.com. ELECTORAL RIFORM We call it inciucio between Renzi e Berlusconi. No need for a medium to say che nun serve sto Rosatellum. sernicolimarco@ gmail.com.
Property for sale in town FLAMINIO PANORAMIC FULLY RENOVATED APARTMENT Second high floor large double living room, 4 bedrooms, 3 design bath, furnished modern kitchen, walking closet, panoramic balcony, basement and parking place. NO INTERMEDIATION FEES - Tel. 3383696066. APARTMENT FOR SALE IN GARBATELLA A few minutes far from tube station, completely restructured partially furnished, living room with fire place, 2 bedrooms, bathroom. Contact valeriv@hotmail.it.
Property for sale out of town CHARMING AND COSY WOODEN COTTAGE FOR SALE Charming and cosy “baita” wooden cottage + 2 bedroom Cottage annex, at 20 miles driving distance from Rome, in the Parco di Vejo Natural Reserve. The property, located in an elevated position, is set in a unique and dreamy landscape. It is set on a 2.5 acre area with woodland, a large flat lawn (football field size) located in front of the main house, olive trees, an orchard, and a rich diversity of flowers, plants and trees. It is enriched by an eating area with a brick wood fired pizza oven, and a lit dancing floor to use in the warm summer nights by the moon. €660.000 Mail pierdavid@ tiscali.it. BI-LEVEL VILLA FOR SALE NEAR LAKE BRACCIANO Beautiful bi-level villa for sale with in-ground round pool, wrap-around porch, 4 car covered parking area, and panoramic view of Lake Bracciano. Each floor is a full apartment with kitchen, 3 bathrooms, large living room with fireplace and 3 bedrooms. Solar panels and rain collection cistern in addition to plumbing/electric system. Contact h.love@mac.com.
60 | June 2018 • Wanted in Rome
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61 | June 2018 • Wanted in Rome
62 | June 2018 • Wanted in Rome
63 | June 2018 • Wanted in Rome
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Wanted in Rome | December 2017
FEBRUARY 18 - MARCH 3 TEATRO COSTANZI CONDUCTOR
SPERANZA SCAPPUCCI DIRECTOR
GIUSEPPE VERDI
FEBRUARY 2, 4 TEATRO COSTANZI
DIRECTOR
la sonnambula
GIORGIO BARBERIO CORSETTI
i masnadieri
CONDUCTOR
ROBERTO ABBADO
VINCENZO BELLINI
ORCHESTRA AND CHORUS OF THE TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA
MASSIMO POPOLIZIO
NEW PRODUCTION IN COPRODUCTION WITH TEATRO PETRUZZELLI DI BARI
ORCHESTRA AND CHORUS OF THE TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA NEW PRODUCTION
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SOIRÉE FRANÇAISE
FEBRUARY 1, 3 TEATRO COSTANZI ORCHESTRA, ÉTOILE, PRINCIPAL DANCERS, SOLOISTS AND CORPS DE BALLET OF THE TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA A TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA PRODUCTION
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SUITE EN BLANC MUSIC BY
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la traviata
Ettore Festa, HaunagDesign - Illustrations by Gianluigi Toccafondo and David Downton
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ORCHESTRA, CHORUS AND CORPS DE BALLET OF THE TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA
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JANUARY 28, FEBRUARY 3 (8:00 PM)
PINK flOYD BALLET
A TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA PRODUCTION
THE PINK FLOYD ROLAND PETIT LUIGI BONINO
MUSIC BY (ON RECORDED BASIS) BALLET BY REVIVED BY
FEBRUARY 25 TEATRO NAZIONALE DIRECTOR
FABIO CHERSTICH SET, COSTUME AND VIDEO DESIGN
GIANLUIGI TOCCAFONDO “FABBRICA” YOUNG ARTIST PROGRAM AND YOUTH ORCHESTRA OF THE TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA operaroma.it
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