We Love Balaton pocket guide – Summer 2020 by we_love_budapest

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DINING BIKING DINING BIKING WINE HIKING WINE HIKING

SUMMER

2020 SUMMER / 2020

INTRODUCTION For generations, Balaton has been Hungary’s prime getaway destination – but this is a summer like no other. After the spring of shutdown, Lake Balaton is now leading the great Hungarian revival. Restaurants, beaches and wine terraces are all open to sun-seeking visitors, mainly but not exclusively domestic, regaining their favourite spots or discovering new ones. As people flock back, eager for outdoor relaxation, it’s high time

for us to reassess and revere the qualities of Balaton’s great wide open, its hilltop hikes, its bucolic cycle routes, its wealth of water sports. Like the retreats and resorts themselves, our expert editorial crew and star photographers have adapted to circumstances with one eye on the future. The major festivals haven’t gone away, Europe’s tourists will return. In the meantime, there’s still fine wine, inventive cuisine and toddler-friendly waters. Hey, it’s summer!

Due to the pandemic, the opening hours of some venues recommended here may have changed from the regular ones, so always check before you set off.

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CUSTOM PUBLISHING

2020 Launched in 2011, We Love Budapest covers the city’s openings and happenings in Hungarian and English, with a daily stream of original, independent digital content.

Along with our editions for Budapest, Balaton and Hungary, we produce event-focused, custom-published guides. Working in partnership, we create and adapt high-quality material in English and Hungarian to suit clients’ needs.

Throughout 2020, look out for our six seasonally focused printed guides to Budapest, Balaton and Hungary.

BUDAPEST

Hungary’s elegant capital is known for its ornate baths, historic sights and fine cuisine. This summer, the accent is on alfresco leisure, the city opening up cycle lanes and its scenic Danube promenade.

Tips, maps, explainers and interviews help you discover the capital, the country and its main getaway resort. Distributed free nationwide!

BALATON

HUNGARY

Hungary’s prime family summer retreat still offers plenty of quality dining, fine wines and outdoor activities. Look out for our regularly updated website welovebalaton.hu/en in English..

With national parks and palaces, wildlife and wineries, spa-blessed Hungary has attractions from Baroque Sopron in the west to bucolic Hortobágy in the east.

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CONTENTS

CONTENTS BALATON & AROUND

BADACSONY & AROUND

10 best things to do this summer......................................................................16 Discover the north shore by bike......................................................................20 Discover the south shore by bike...................................................................... 22 7 essential new places to check out around Balaton................................. 24 5 great leisure suggestions for kids.................................................................. 26 5 wonderful wines worth looking out for...................................................... 28

5 iconic buildings in Badacsony housing local history...............................72 3 historic castles to conquer............................................................................... 74 3 brilliant beaches in and around Badacsony................................................75 10 restaurants for a great gastronomic adventure..................................... 76 INTERVIEW – permaculture growers PAP wines......................................... 78 7 wine terraces you won’t want to leave.......................................................80 5 fantastic climbs worth the trek...................................................................... 82 3 classic cycle tours around the foot of Badacsony....................................84

BALATONFÜRED & AROUND 7 unmissable attractions to explore................................................................. 34 7 buildings that reveal key eras from history............................................... 36 10 great dining destinations................................................................................ 38 5 cellars where superb local wines can be sampled..................................40 5 irresistible confectioneries...............................................................................42 INTERVIEW – ECC spokesman Gergely Hamza..............................................44 5 great ideas for outdoor relaxation in Veszprém......................................46 5 unique beaches with a great summer mood............................................48

KÁLI-MEDENCE & AROUND

KESZTHELY & HÉVÍZ 3 historic buildings in Keszthely not to be missed......................................90 5 fascinating attractions to see in Hévíz......................................................... 92 INTERVIEW – confectioner Móni Kövérné Kalmár......................................94 5 restaurants serving outstanding cuisine.....................................................96 5 places offering the sweetest delights...........................................................98 5 lookout points for perfect selfies.................................................................100 5 beaches for lazy summertime relaxation................................................. 102

5 adventurous hikes full of mysterious attractions.................................... 54 5 romantic ruins with the most beautiful sunsets...................................... 56 3 brilliant beaches for summer fun.................................................................. 58 3 wine terraces to sample local labels............................................................ 59 INTERVIEW – winemaker Attila Pálffy.............................................................60 5 local producers who sell directly to customers........................................ 62 7 unmissable restaurants around Káli-medence.........................................64 5 perfect vantage points to view Káli-medence..........................................66

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CONTENTS

BALATONBOGLÁR & AROUND 5 fascinating sights that shine a light on local history............................ 108 7 dining destinations serving divine fare......................................................110 INTERVIEW – researcher István Varga............................................................ 112 3 vantage points to admire the north shore................................................ 114 3 fabulous confectioneries worth the trek................................................... 115 7 wineries worth the climb up Kishegy.......................................................... 116 5 iconic beaches within easy reach................................................................. 118

SIÓFOK & AROUND 5 fantastic attractions to discover in and around Siófok........................ 124 5 special restaurants worth investigating in Siófok...................................126 INTERVIEW – restaurateur Zsuzsa Orbán-Juhász.......................................128 7 thrilling activities for all ages........................................................................ 130 3 beaches to beat the heat.................................................................................132 3 hidden treasures to explore outside Siófok..............................................134

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We love Budapest, Balaton, Hungary and the holidays, but to enjoy them and keep quarantine at bay, here are some simple tips that should still be part of your daily routine while youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re here!

Wear gloves. A pair is recommended if you touch anything like a handrail, a door handle or a button that many others have already pressed.

Wear a mask whenever youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re indoors. It may be warm and uncomfortable, but it protects against infection. Take it with you into any bar or restaurant before you eat or drink.

Keep your distance. Queuing at any food stand, spa or bar, remain a minimum of 1.5 metres from the nearest customer.

Disinfect. Hand sanitisers are freely available, even on tables in restaurants. Use them regularly â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and always wash your hands with soap after you enter anywhere. 10

USEFUL INFOR MATION

BALATON BY PLANE

BALATON BY CAR

Hévíz-Balaton Airport (hevizairport.com) serves a limited selection of flights from Germany. Budapest Airport (bud.hu) is 16km from the capital, about 125km from Siófok at Balaton. There is no direct link from airport to lake by public transport. Outside adjoining Budapest terminals 2A or 2B, a kiosk dispatches Főtaxi (fotaxi.hu) cabs to town, costing about 8,000 HUF/€23. Past the taxis, the 100E bus (ticket 900 HUF/€2.60) runs frequently to Deák Ferenc tér in the city centre, 50min journey time.

BALATON BY TRAIN The main station in Budapest serving Balaton is Déli at the end of red metro line M2. Regular trains operated by MÁV (mavcsoport.hu) take 1hr 20mins to Siófok (single 2,500 HUF/€7.20), nearly 2hrs to Balatonboglár (3,000 HUF/€8.65), and, changing at Balatonszentgyörgy, nearly 3hrs to Keszthely (3,800 HUF/€11). For the north shore, many journeys require a change at Székesfehérvár, although some services run direct to Balatonfüred (2hrs, 2,700 HUF/€7.80) and Badacsony (2hrs 40mins, 3,400 HUF/€9.80).

BALATON BY BUS Volánbusz (volanbusz.hu) provides direct services to destinations such as Keszthely (2hr 20min, 3,700 HUF/€10.70) from Népliget, Budapest’s main bus terminal with its own station on blue metro line M3.

WE LOVE BALATON

The M7 motorway links Budapest with Balaton, busy at weekends. There are no toll gates – buy a permit online (hungary-vignette.eu) or from any petrol station. Minimum validity period is ten days (3,500 HUF/€10).

BALATON BY BOAT BAHART (en.balatonihajozas.hu) has had to adapt its timetable but still offers services every 40mins between the south and north shores, Szántódrév to Tihanyrév, journey time 8mins, single fare 800 HUF/€2.30. Routes should increase as summer develops.

BALATON BY BIKE Balaton is perfect for cyclists, with all kinds of routes, tours and trails. For suggestions, see balatonbike.hu. Cycle hire is possible all round the lake, with hotels and guesthouses a likely resource.

BALATON SAFELY Balaton may be open but rules still apply about social distancing in queues and masks once inside anywhere. Wash your hands frequently – sanitisers are provided in restaurants. Stay safe and enjoy summer!

2020 / SUMMER

BALATON & AROUND

THE BALATON REGION

GATEWAY TO LAKE BALATON BALATONFÜRED & AROUND (pages 30-49)

BADACSONY & AROUND (pages 68-85) KÁLI-MEDENCE & AROUND (pages 50-67)

n o t a al

KESZTHELY & HÉVÍZ (pages 86-103)

SIÓFOK & AROUND (pages 120-135)

BALATONBOGLÁR & AROUND (pages 104-119) ton Bala

Kis14

WE LOVE BALATON

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BALATON & AROUND

10 best things

Sample Balaton champagne

TO DO THIS SUMMER

More and more wineries are making top bubbly these days. Try the champagnes of 2HA, the Istvándy Pincészet and, this summer, sparkling Laposa from Badacsony.

Take up a safe water sport

Within the rules of social distancing, if you want to actively relax, sailing, SUP paddling and kayaking are still great exercise options.

See sunrise from a solitary hill

You have to get up early (or stay up until dawn) to catch the first rays from the top of a solitary hill, but it’s worth it.

Clink wine glasses on a terrace

Devour prime beach food

Chatting over a glass or two of wine while taking in the view is essential to any Balaton summer. Panoramic terraces dot the lake, with quality food offered, too.

Beach Food of the Year winners for 2019, the Tiki Beach Bisztró in Zamárdi, Port Burger in Balatonmáriafürdő and the Málna büfé at Balatonlelle all merit a visit.

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BALATON & AROUND

Taste great ice cream

Watch sunset from church ruins

From the fantastic Florida at Balatonmáriafürdő to the rosé specialities of Kő Fagyi? at Mindszentkálla, Balaton offers stupendous artisanal ice cream all round the lake.

Around Balaton, the ruins of medieval churches are best visited at sunset. These include Dörgicse, the abandoned tower of Somogyvámos and Töttöskál Church in Szentbékkálla.

Tour Balaton by bike

Gentle roads, birdsong and convenient beaches underscore any bike trip around Balaton, with cycle rental readily available. Rest stops are plentiful, with a bar or two on the way.

Admire Balaton from a lookout tower

Many renovated in recent years, the lookout towers dotting the hilltops of the north and south shores provide fine views of Balaton – and a great hike to reach them.

Savour artisanal produce

During the shutdown, more and more decided to order food from local producers. Carry on this fine tradition by patronising Bácshegyi Sajtműhely and Vászolyi Sajtmanufaktúra. 18

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BALATON & AROUND

DISCOVER THE NORTH SHORE

by bike

FRIDAY: Starting out from the edge of Keszthely, ride close to the shoreline, past the old hotels, before taking the cycle path towards Hévíz. Here, take a dip at Tó Baths, then pedal up to Egregy Hill for lunch at the Öreg Harang. Head over to Rezi to admire the castle before a night’s rest.

SATURDAY: Browse local products at the Demeter Laky Tourist House, then take the winding road to Zalaszántó for the Buddhist stupa. Towards Lesencetomaj, stop at the Kő orra stone, and the stunning panorama. Finally, ride down to Tapolca, where local trout is a must at a lakeside restaurant.

Káli-medence

SUNDAY: Hop on the train with your bike until Akali. Wind on to Fövenyes for a swim and a snack at Kalóz. Afterwards, head to Örvényes, and the Balaton Bár, before visiting the quaint old village watermill. From there, head to Sajkod, and pizza at the Apáti Étterem, before riding triumphantly into Füred for the express train – after ice cream at Bergmann.

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BALATON & AROUND

DISCOVER THE SOUTH SHORE

by bike

FRIDAY: Alight at Balatonvilágos and head for the Hedon Brewery. After beer and beach volleyball, jump in for a swim at SzéplakFelső Beach. Enjoy lunch at the Rozmaring Vendéglő, then cycle up to the Kőhegyi lookout tower in Zamárdi and end with sunset on Szántód Beach.

SATURDAY: Zoom over to Kőröshegy for the lavender fields then pop in for cake at the Völgyhíd Café, near an impressive viaduct. Riding back to Földvár, enjoy the panorama from the Shipping History Visitor Centre, then head down to Szárszó for lunch at the Anno Taverna. In the afternoon, cycle through Szólád to Kötcse. A glass of Zöld Veltelini later awaits at the Gutman Wine Cellar.

Kőhegyi lookout tower

SUNDAY: For a refreshing splash, head to the beach at Őszöd. Cycle to Szemes and the Rock Burger Cirkusz for the namesake speciality. Next, Boglár, and the Várdomb Adventure Park, where the fun involves summer bobsleighing. Finish off with a farewell espresso at the Spájz delicatessen before the train back to Budapest.

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BALATON & AROUND

Nomád Coworking & Design Shop

BALATON & AROUND

BADIZSON The pandemic forced Gergő Istvándy into this new concept: having processed his grapes for wine, he couldn’t use them. So he created this wine bar where you can also take away. Badacsonytomaj, Kisörsi út 25 VILLA DELIKÁT Zsolt Martonosi got out of restaurants and opened this cosy delicatessen at the main intersection of Balatonfüred, within a former petrol station. Balaton produce and foreign delicacies are stocked on the shelves and even delivered. Balatonfüred, Széchenyi utca 2. villadelikat.hu VESZPRÉMIUM This special and tiny pizza workshop has nestled itself on the edge of the centre of Veszprém. The divine pizzas are made in an oven lined with yellow-green tiles, everything of such simplicity heaven doesn’t come into it. Veszprém, Csermák lépcső 2.; facebook.com/veszp

7 ESSENTIAL NEW PLACES TO CHECK OUT AROUND BALATON

ROCKBURGER CIRKUSZ There were not enough outlets in Balatonlelle, Budapest and the Lupa lakes, so RockBurger continues to expand. This time, a multi-seat venue with a remit for smaller concerts has been opened in the heart of Balatonszemes. Balatonszemes, Kisfaludy utca 12. facebook.com/rockburgercirkusz

RockBurger Cirkusz

NOMÁD COWORKING & DESIGN SHOP Is there anyone looking to work in the tourist centre of ’Füred? Anyone, in fact, forced to bring their work with them on holiday. This first co-working office in the area is a refuge for all digital nomads. Balatonfüred, Kisfaludy utca 10. facebook.com/coworkingnomad

VÖLGYHÍD KÁVÉZÓ Many customers missed the Villa Gréta confectionery, which was closed in 2018, but the space has since been filled by the Kőröshegy Völgyhíd Café. In addition to its sumptuous cakes, it offers a unique panorama and a sense of tranquillity. Kőröshegy, 111/3. facebook.com/villagretasiofok

SPÁJZ In the center of Balatonboglár, at the foot of the market square, this small shop has opened where you can sip freshly brewed coffee while you supply your fridge with meat, cheeses and cordials from surrounding producers. Balatonboglár, Templom utca 2. facebook.com/SpajzBoglar 24

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Buffalo Reserve

BALATON & AROUND

Zobori Élménypark

BALATON & AROUND

BUFFALO RESERVE One of the attractions of the Kis-Balaton area, where you can observe buffalos lolling happily in the mud and their peaceful companions, gophers, emerging from the ground. Balatonmagyaród, Kápolnapuszta. facebook.com/bivalyrezervatum

5 GREAT LEISURE SUGGESTIONS FOR KIDS

TAPOLCA CAVE LAKE Perfect for a rainy day with the kids, this underground cave system is best explored in little rowboats, its visitor centre expanded by ten more areas in the last couple of years. Tapolca, Kisfaludy Sándor utca 3. facebook.com/tavasbarlang. latogatokozpont

Fűzfői Leisure Centre

FŰZFŐ LEISURE CENTRE Gliding down on the bobsleigh, clinging to the climbing wall, shooting paintball – boredom’s out the window here. The adventure park offers courses for different ages. Balatonfűzfő, Uszoda utca 2. balatonibob.hu/serpakalandpark.hu

ZOBORI ÉLMÉNYPARK A playhouse, slide area and watery fun park attract toddlers and little ones, an entertainment room, 4DX cinema, VR zone and 3D Exojet simulator await older children and, of course, grown-ups. Zalaszabar. zobori.hu

SÜMEG CASTLE One of the largest fortresses in Hungary, where not only history exhibitions but also authentic castle games and horse shows bring to life the everyday lot of the soldiers of yesteryear. A medieval adventure park runs around at the foot of the castle. Sümeg, Várkert. sumegvar.hu 26

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BALATON & AROUND

BUJDOSÓ NEMERE 2017 Named after the legendary sailboat that held the Blue Ribbon record for 57 years. The cellar’s best, from its most prominent vineyards. A rich, full-bodied wine of highquality ingredients, delivering ripe fruit with elegant barrel spices, refreshing acids and playful citrus. www.bujdoso.com

5 WONDERFUL WINES WORTH LOOKING OUT FOR GARAMVÁRI LELLEI FURMINT BRUT 2017 On the south shore, more and more are voting for bubbles, allowing the traditional champagnes of Garamvári to assert a major role. This champagne is the first of the Furmint grown in Balatonlelle. Young fruits are determined by each memorable sip. www.garamvari.hu

GILVESY VÁRADI FURMINT 2017 Róbert Gilvesy returned from Canada to set up this estate on Szent György Hill. Until recently grazing land, the Váradi vineyard now produces a young crop of Furmint. The wine contains the essence of the basalt slopes, lots of juicy fruit and tasty barrel spices. www.gilvesy.hu

BENCZE PINOT NOIR 2018 Being natural is important to István Bencze, who in 2018 reckons he reached the kind of level with his wines that points the way ahead. Lively wine, with playful acids, a basket of fruit, a fine spiciness, a clear, exemplary balance – and delicious to drink. www.benczepince.hu

BUSSAY ÖRÖKSÉG 2009 Wine that spans generations from the Zala wine region. It was made by László Bussay, whose death prompted his daughter and her husband to mark the cellar’s 30th birthday with this vintage. Its age can be seen from its colour, a rounded wine with firm acids, fruits and spices. www.bussay.hu WE LOVE BALATON

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BALATONFĂ&#x153;RED & AROUND Antiquity and modernity meet in this landscape, where you can wander between Roman ruins, early medieval churches, late medieval castles and modern high-rises. The essence of Balaton is reflected in vibrant beaches, historical landmarks, a bustling cultural scene, gastronomic diversity and stand-out local wine. Coming by train, car, ferry or bike, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re bound to find a special treasure or two.

WE LOVE BALATON

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BALATONFÜR ED & AROUND

VILLA ROMANA

VASZARY VILLA

TAGORE PROMENADE

TIHANY ABBEY

TIHANYI LAVENDER APÁTSÁG FARMS

WE LOVE BALATON 2020 / SUMMER

BALATONFÜR ED & AROUND

Tihany Abbey

BALATONFÜR ED & AROUND

TAMÁS HILL CROSS Climb steep sets of steps in sturdy shoes to reach this cross – illuminated at night – and take in the most picturesque panorama of Füred and Lake Balaton beyond. Balatonfüred, Kilátó utca. turizmus.balatonfured.hu KISERDŐ Also known as Fenyves Park and thick with trees, renovated Kiserdő features a street workout spot, playgrounds and tennis courts, with the remains of a stone theatre still hidden. Balatonfüred, Kiserdő LAKE KÜLSŐ & LAVENDER FIELDS With pristine wildlife and lavender fields providing the backdrop, David Attenborough might appreciate this little lake lying in a volcanic crater. Tihany, by the access road. tihany.hu

7 UNMISSABLE ATTRACTIONS TO EXPLORE VESZPRÉM CASTLE DISTRICT No longer a functioning castle, the fortified heart of Veszprém is a wonderful, panoramic ensemble of 18th- 19th-century palaces and churches, and no few museums. Veszprém, Vár utca. veszpreminfo.hu/record/seta-a-varban

Örvényesi watermill

ÖRVÉNYES WATERMILL Its predecessor first mentioned in 1211, the mill’s wheel has been dutifully spinning since 1800. To find out how, there’s a museum nearby. Örvényes, Szent Imre utca 1. orvenyes.hu

TIHANY ABBEY The symbol of Tihany is this abbey, where András I was buried in 1060. Tangible history can be discovered in the visitor centre and hours spent admiring the fine panorama. Tihany, I András tér 1. tihanyiapatsag.hu TAGORE PROMENADE Buzzing in summer, the boardwalk is named after the Indian poet who visited in 1926, and started the tradition of tree-planting along this lakeside stretch. Balatonfüred, Tagore sétány. turizmus.balatonfured.hu 34

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BALATONFÜR ED & AROUND

Szaléziánum

BALATONFÜR ED & AROUND

BAROQUE - SZALÉZIÁNUM One of the most prominent buildings of the Baroque era today serves as the visitor centre for the Veszprém Archdiocese. A herb garden and candle-making also feature. Veszprém, Vár utca 31. szalezianum.hu 19TH CENTURY - ARÁCS VILLAGE Upper Arács is an example of how Balatonfüred would have looked before the ever-growing tourist industry reshaped the cityscape. Balatonfüred-Balatonarács. turizmus. balatonfured.hu/latnivalok/aracsi-nephaz LATE 19TH CENTURY - MÓR JÓKAI MEMORIAL HOUSE Prominent Hungarian poet and writer Mór Jókai spent several summers in this villa, a perfect example of 19th-century architecture. Balatonfüred, Honvéd utca 1. kultura.balatonfured.hu/jokai-mor-emlekhaz

ROMAN - VILLA ROMANA BALÁCA This is what a villa in Balaton must have looked like when mosaics, not concrete, adorned the floor. An interactive exhibition presents how Romans lived here. Nemesvámos-Baláca, külterület. balaca.hu EARLY MIDDLE AGES - HERMIT HOUSES Monks were already living in caves carved into rocks in the 11th century. A few have survived today and can be easily reached after a short walk. Tihany, Óvár-hegy

Mór Jókai Memorial House

7 BUILDINGS THAT REVEAL KEY ERAS FROM HISTORY

MODERN - HOTEL ANNABELLA The first luxurious hotel of the Socialist era at Balaton was built in 1968. The architect, Margit Pázmándi, was awarded the prestigious Ybl Prize for her plans. Balatonfüred, Deák Ferenc utca 25

MIDDLE AGES - SZENT MIHÁLY CHURCH This Romanesque-style church dates back to the Árpád era, though the ruins that were left probably owe their appearance to the invading Turks. Balatonfüred, Régitemető utca. turizmus.balatonfured.hu/latnivalok/szt-mihalypapsoka-templom-romjai 36

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BALATONFÜR ED & AROUND

Neked Főztem

BALATONFÜR ED & AROUND

SZOMSZÉD KERTJE ‘Next Door’s Garden’ atop Csopak features high-quality Hungarian dishes. On occasion, though, owner Attila Tóth might travel to Latin America for recipes. Csopak, Kossuth utca 97. facebook.com/szomszedkertje MORZSA BISZTRÓ ÉS KRIMÓ From Füred’s busy Blaha, Morzsa moved to the golf club in Udvari but still offers decent bistro dishes, here by the green or down on the beach. Balatonudvari, Vászolyi út 1. facebook.com/morzsabisztro SÁFRÁNKERT VENDÉGLŐ Sourcing seasonal ingredients, this gastro hub of the Homola empire on a main village street serves prime dishes such as mangalica pork with Dijon mustard. Paloznak, Fő utca 1. homolapinceszet.hu/safrankert-vendeglo

10 GREAT DINING DESTINATIONS

PETRÁNYI PINCE Nestled amid the bucolic Csopak hillside, this welcoming winery offers an unmatched panorama, fine Riesling and dishes created from Petrányi family recipes. Csopak, Homokbánya utca 31. petranyipince.hu

SZENT DONÁT BORKÚRIA The former Márga Bistro offers seasonal specialities and reimagined Hungarian dishes, best enjoyed on a terrace that provides a picturesque panorama. Csopak, Szitahegyi út 28. szentdonat.hu/bisztro

PLAGE 18 As if overlooking the Med, this eatery serves quality bistro food – steak, fish, goats’ cheese – to be enjoyed from the vantage point of a lakeside deckchair. Tihany, Kenderföld út 18. plage18.hu

BISTRO SPARHELT Minimalist design, lovely plates and a concise menu complement quality cuisine at this fine bistro, away from the waterfront in the upper part of town. Balatonfüred, Szent István tér 7. sparheltbistro.hu

VÍGMOLNÁR CSÁRDA Local dishes are served with a twist at Vígmolnár, whose whitewashed walls, thatched roof and beehive oven provide a fairytale setting for a full rustic experience. Csopak, Kőkorsó utca 1. vigmolnarcsarda.hu

NEKED FŐZTEM-BALATONFÜRED Having started out as a gastro pub in Zánka, Neked Főztem now features a small menu and an elegant atmosphere, tucked in from the Füred waterfront. Balatonfüred, Aranyhíd sétány 8. facebook.com/ nekedfoztembalatonfured

SZŐLŐSI KOCSMA This one really is a pub rather than a restaurant with a few village-style dishes, from fish soup to sweet dumplings. Run by the main owner of Budapest’s Bortársaság. Balatonszőlős, Fő utca 10

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WE LOVE BALATON

Homola Winery

BALATONFÜR ED & AROUND

Zelna Borbár

BALATONFÜR ED & AROUND

HOMOLA WINERY This wine terrace above Paloznak is worth the climb not only for the great reds, whites and rosés on offer, but for the perfect panorama and occasional DJ music. Paloznak, Vincellér utca. homolapinceszet.hu

5 CELLARS WHERE SUPERB LOCAL WINES CAN BE SAMPLED

SÖPTEI CELLAR AND RESTAURANT Two brothers lead this firstgeneration family cellar, Zsolt responsible for the award-winning Rieslings, Róbert for the excellent seasonal cuisine. Csopak, Istenfia utca 5. soptei.hu

Jásdi Wine Terrace

FIGULA WINERY This family winery offers both lighter and fullbodied wine variations. If you don’t fancy trekking to their estate, you can find their bar beside the yacht harbour. Balatonfüred, Csárda utca 26. figula.hu

ZELNA BORBÁR This arriviste couple has managed to make such a splash with the wines produced at their nearby vineyard that you can try them in the heart of lively Füred. Balatonfüred, Zákonyi Ferenc utca 3-5. zelnaborbar.hu

JÁSDI WINE TERRACE Thanks to the Jásdis, Bishop János Ranolder’s estate has been revived with fine wine, the terrace lively with István Jásdi’s tales told over a decent Riesling. Csopak, Arany János utca 3. jasdipince.hu 40

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Bergmann Confectionery

BALATONFÜR ED & AROUND

Nagyi kertje Tea House

BALATONFÜR ED & AROUND

KAROLINA COFFEEHOUSE This well-known traditional café offers both a pleasant sit-down and swift takeaway experience. Name and brand came from granny, the recipes are original. Balatonfüred, Zákonyi Ferenc utca 4. karolina.hu APÁTSÁGI REGE CONFECTIONERY At the Rege, you can try the abbey’s own products, enjoy lunch, taste Benedictine cake made with linden honey and sip Father Gellért’s herbal tea. Kossuth Lajos utca 22. apatsagicukraszda.hu

ARÁCSI CONFECTIONERY The sweet and savoury treats at this friendly confectionery sell out fast, so be sure to try the heavenly homemade krémes cream cake, and the sweet cottage-cheese one. Balatonfüred, Arácsi út 132. aracsicukraszda.hu BERGMANN CONFECTIONERY The distinguished Bergmann confectionery dynasty runs two places in Füred, offering tasty treats and a trip back in time. Balatonfüred, Zsigmond utca 1/Petőfi Sándor utca 64. bergmanncukraszda.hu

Apátsági Rege Confectionery

5 IRRESISTIBLE CONFECTIONERIES

NAGYI KERTJE TEA HOUSE Having started out as a tea house, this sweet place now lays on lunches, too. The lovely terrace and great cakes make ‘Granny’s Garden’ worth a stop-off. Aszófő, Remete utca 2. nagyikertjeteahaz.hu 42

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INTERVIEW

opean Capital In 2023, Veszprém will be Eur gely Hamza, of Culture. We spoke with Ger the organising communications director for north of Lake team in this historic city just Balaton.

y l e g r e G mza Ha

e planned for Veszprém this

WLBa: What events do you hav summer?

later this year but it will GH: Our summer will start a little t music and wines in ligh be more active. We begin with ling and Jazz Days Ries é, Ros the Old Town Square, with outdoor season the off kick between August 16-23. We performing acts l ona regi with nationally known and winemakers ular pop ng casi in the jazz genre and show ival requires Fest ic Mus et Stre from around the region. The between e plac take will r’s little introduction – this yea all over from s ician mus et stre August 26-29. Hundreds of . prém Vesz of re cent the ate Hungary and abroad anim aton -Bal prém Vesz the n whe Then we come to September, een the 3rd and the 5th. Film Picnic is scheduled betw the region, the winners in t At this new cinematic even ival will be screened Fest of the annual Hungarian Film Balatonfüred. and prém at outdoor locations in Vesz

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Gulya Hill

BALATONFÜR ED & AROUND

Veszprém Valley

BALATONFÜR ED & AROUND

ERZSÉBET LIGET This park is the green heart of Veszprém, where you can explore the historical discoveries at the Dezső Lackó Museum and the medieval ruins on Calvary Hill. Veszprém, Erzsébet sétány KOSSUTH LAJOS UTCA Cafés and shops line this prominent pedestrianised street, various architectural styles contrasting in the shadow of a 20-floor tower block. Veszprém, Kossuth Lajos utca. zoldkalauz.hu/veszprem-kossuth-lajos-utca

VESZPRÉM ZOO Named after legendary African explorer Kálmán Kittenberger, the zoo brings out your inner adventurer, giraffes and zebras staring back at you, and a dinosaur park kids will love. Veszprém, Kittenberger Kálmán utca 17. vestpzoo.hu

Veszprém Zoo

5 GREAT IDEAS FOR OUTDOOR RELAXATION IN VESZPRÉM

VESZPRÉM VALLEY There’s a long list of attractions to be found around the park complex: Séd creek, lakes, Lovers’ Island, medieval ruins, playgrounds and even a climbing wall. Veszprém, Betekintsvölgy. veszpremvolgy.hu GULYA HILL Above Séd Valley rises a hill offering two panoramic views of the city, while a nature trail and a park forest provide further reason to visit. Veszprém, Gulya-domb 46

WE LOVE BALATON 2020 / SUMMER

Csopak beach

BALATONFÜR ED & AROUND

Káptalanfüred big beach

BALATONFÜR ED & AROUND

ESTERHÁZY BEACH & ADVENTURE POOL A landscaped park, adventure pool and a Tihany panorama await right by the prominent Tagore Promenade. There’s a free beach library, too. Balatonfüred, Tagore sétány. balatonfuredistrandok.hu/eszterhazy.html GÖDRÖS FREE BEACH Anyone can lay down their towel on the long and narrow concrete path right by the water here. Handy snack outlets, paid-for parking and a shaded adventure park sit nearby. Tihany, Lepkesor

SAJKOD BEACH This quiet getaway lies west of the Tihany peninsula, complete with food stalls. Reward your hike on a marked trail or picturesque bike ride with a refreshing swim. Tihany-Sajkod, Sajkodi sor 22. facebook.com/sajkodstrand KÁPTALANFÜRED BIG BEACH On the peaceful western edge of this little red-stone town, children will love the sandy bay, playground and football pitch while bathing here. Balatonalmádi-Káptalanfüred, Kócsag utca 1

Gödrös free beach

5 UNIQUE BEACHES WITH A GREAT SUMMER MOOD

CSOPAK BEACH Those who like active recreation will find the largest slide at Lake Balaton and the Beach Funsport Adventure Park, with its climbing wall, catapult and many challenges. Csopak, Örkény sétány 1. strand.csopak.hu 48

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KÁLI-MEDENCE & AROUND Incredible geological formations, a rich ethnographic heritage, fresh ingredients. Here, there’s always a new favourite place, a hidden treasure, a romantic ruin where the sunset is spectacular. This is a region of fairy-tale farms and fine restaurants where traditional and contemporary dishes are created from local produce. It’s easy to fall in love with this landscape – here’s how.

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KÁLI-MEDENCE & AROUND

SZENTBÉKKÁLLA, STONE FIELD

HEGYESTŰ

DÖRGICSE CHURCH RUINS

TÓTI HILL

HUMAN COMEDY STATUES

SALFÖLD

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Human Comedy statues

KÁLI-MEDENCE & AROUND

Szentantalfa

KÁLI-MEDENCE & AROUND

BALATONHENYE This hamlet enshrines all the romance of Kálimedence: the old houses from the 1800s, the lush gardens and the trickling stream. The village is worth the trip alone, but you can venture further, as a lovely tourist trail leads to Kapolcs. Balatonhenye. balatonhenye.hu

5 ADVENTUROUS HIKES FULL OF MYSTERIOUS ATTRACTIONS

HUMAN COMEDY STATUES Imre Veszprémi’s four statues, fashioned out of steel pipes and limestone, overlook the entire Káli-medence from a hillside near the shoreline of Lake Kornyi. Kővágóörs, by the Köveskál road.

Balatonhenye

STONE SEA The huge, strangely shaped stones that came to the surface from the sediment of the Pannonian Sea are to be found on the edge of Szentbékkálla, as if some giant had played here in the past. Szentbékkálla, cemetery path. ingoko.hu

SZENTANTALFA Fine cheeses, honeys and wines are made in this gastro village in the Nivegy Valley. Cellars line the way to the strange church ruins of St Balázs, from the Árpád era of the early Middle Ages. Szentantalfa. szentantalfa.hu

FEKETE HILL LAKES The formation of these tiny lakes is surrounded by mystery, as they dry out and disappear under vegetation. Even the road here, through vineyards and forests, is an adventure. Köveskál, Fekete-hegy, blue trail from the stone cross outside Szentbékkálla 54

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Töttöskál Church Ruins

KÁLI-MEDENCE & AROUND

Salföld Pauline Monastery

KÁLI-MEDENCE & AROUND

TÖTTÖSKÁL CHURCH RUINS Töttöskál village, built 1,100 years ago, was destroyed by the Ottomans. These Romanesque ruins are now the only proof that it ever existed. Szentbékkálla, after the cross over the stone bridge

5 ROMANTIC RUINS WITH THE MOST BEAUTIFUL SUNSETS

VELÉTE PALACE RUINS The stone ruins of a 14th-century Gothic palace built by the Veszprém bishops still stand north of Szentbékkálla on top of the Veléte Hill. The 7x7-metre residential tower served secular purposes. Szentbékkálla, left of the cemetery

Dörgicse Church Ruins

SALFÖLD PAULINE MONASTERY The forest close to Salföld hid the flourishing monastery and church of Pauline monks for centuries. Today, it is one of the prettiest medieval ruins in the Carpathian Basin. Salföld, on a signposted dirt road

DÖRGICSE CHURCH RUINS In the Árpád era, Dörgicse consisted of three villages and three churches, all today in ruins: St Peter’s with the mystical past, basalt-built Kis-Dörgicse, and 22-metre-tall Alsó-Dörgicse. Dörgicse, Fő utca, Temetői utca, Diófa utca

SÓSTÓKÁL CHURCH RUINS The north wall and shrine of this 13th-century Romanesque church are all that remain among these ecclesiastical ruins, by a small excavation site surrounded in a huge green clearing. Kővágóörs, right of the path towards Köveskál 56

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KÁLI-MEDENCE & AROUND

Révfülöpi Szigeti strand

3 WINE TERRACES TO SAMPLE LOCAL LABELS PÁLFFY WINE TERRACE This family winery occupies an expansive 16 hectares, where you can wine and dine on fine bites on the panoramic terrace. The Pálffys might even be floating around, happy to talk about the ancient cellars of Fekete Hill. Köveskál, Fő út 40. palffypince.hu KÁLI KÖVEK There’s no particular view, but at this family house and peaceful, spacious garden, you can sample the varied wines of Gyula Szabó as you lie on hay bales and pallet furniture. Köveskál, Fő utca 11. kalikovek.hu

3 BRILLIANT BEACHES FOR SUMMER FUN RÉVFÜLÖP SZIGETI STRAND For nearly a century, this has been one of the main beaches at Révfülöp, with a large playground and volleyball. An open-air cinema provides post-bathing fun. Révfülöp, Sziget utca 1

Pálffy Wine Terrace

SABAR-DŰLŐ WINE HOUSE Instead of Lake Balaton, the view looks over the rolling greenery of Káli-medence in the background. After trying the pleasurable Rieslings here, it will all pale into insignificance. Káptalantóti, Sabari szőlő 911/1. sabar.hu

PÁLKÖVE BEACH One of the most hidden beaches on the northern shore is at Palköve, where few crowds gather. A retro mood echoes holidays of yore. Kővágóörs-Pálköve, Pálkövei út 60 ZÁNKA BEACH A sandy beach volleyball court, water basketball, WiFi and wonderful lángos are all within easy reach near the centre of Zánka. Even on busy Saturdays, there should be plenty of space to spread out the picnic blanket. Zánka, Rákóczi út. zanka.hu/strand 58

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INTERVIEW

Attila

e has The renaissance of natural win ffy talks Pál come to Lake Balaton. Attila wine project about pét-nat, the sparkling he calls PANK.

Pálff y

the ancient WLBa: What is the essence of t naturel, pét-nat? champagne technology pétillan no means new, AP: Pét-nat is a trendy, but by , described back in method of making champagne kers rediscovered the 16th century. French winema y named it pétillant this old style in the 1990s. The rvescence. In essence, naturel, meaning natural effe spontaneous this is organic viticulture, with and bubbles. fermentation, minimal sulphur, ng must, is bottled The base wine, ie the fermenti entation continues in pressure-resistant glass. Ferm dioxide remains in after bottling, and the carbon d yeasts. There is the bottle along with the dea pét-nats and they generally no dégorgement with no added sulphur. are marketed with minimal or there’s no need to They are opaque in colour, but e each sip fruity worry, as the sediment will mak mer refreshment! and creamy. The perfect sum

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Kékkút Goat Farm

KÁLI-MEDENCE & AROUND

Kinga Kamrája

KÁLI-MEDENCE & AROUND

HERB VALLEY More than 500 kinds of plants grow here across 7,000 square metres. Even a walk feels therapeutic, but those interested can also learn something new about how to use the plants. Zánka, Fő utca 3-7. gyogynovenyvolgy.hu

5 LOCAL PRODUCERS WHO SELL DIRECTLY TO CUSTOMERS

LEVENDULA PORTA Walk among the lavender to find homemade cordials, cheeses, sausages and a fine breakfast of farm produce thanks to the Keszthely family. Ideal for a little peace and quiet. Kékkút, Fő utca 18. levendulaporta.hu

Susanne Daucher

KINGA KAMRÁJA They come from far and wide to visit Kinga and Levente’s farm to stock up on a whole larder’s worth of sausages, hams, cheeses and other goodies from surrounding producers. At 14km between Káptalantóti and Szentbékkálla. facebook.com/ kingakamraja

SUSANNE DAUCHER Look out for the sign in Pécsely saying ’Mustard, vinegar, chutney’ or find Susanne’s stall at Tóti market where her famous black-rowan vinegar, spicy vinegars, sweet mustards and special chutney are sold. Pécsely, Iskola utca 141

KÉKKÚT GOAT FARM Tibor Gondor and team call their goats by name as they graze over 12 hectares, producing spicy cheeses and even goat ice cream from their milk, in walnut, fig and red-wine flavours, along with the classics. Kékkút (facing Theodóra spring). kekkutikecskesajt.hupont.hu 62

WE LOVE BALATON 2020 / SUMMER

KÁLI-MEDENCE & AROUND

Neked Főztem Gasztrokocsma

KÁLI-MEDENCE & AROUND

KŐVIRÁG Flavours of the countryside feature here, with an enchanted garden to boot. Choose something from the chalked-up menu and crown it with Hungarian sweet cottage-cheese dumplings. Köveskál, Fő utca 9A. facebook.com/koviragkoveskal TAGYON ESTATE Although the tastiest produce from Nivegy Valley features, this is not a restaurant as such, it’s more casual than any traditional establishment. Vegetables come from their own garden, wines from their cellar. Tagyon, Tagyon-hegy dűlő. tagyonbirtok.hu FÜGEKERT BED&WINE Initially offering lodging and breakfast, Fügekert has since introduced all-day hedonism – brunch-type lunches and dinner – on the spacious terrace in the shade of an old fig tree. The lecsó with a twist is a must! Zánka, Fő utca 30. fugekert.com

7 UNMISSABLE RESTAURANTS AROUND KÁLI-MEDENCE

MI A KŐ Run by fine artist and winemaker Tamás Trombitás, this Köveskál locale focuses on local flavours and labels. Try the iconic rosé duck breast as you admire the contemporary artwork. Köveskál, Fő utca 25. mia-ko.hu

Fügekert Bed&Wine

NEKED FŐZTEM GASZTROKOCSMA Atop Zánka, this seasonal bistro cuisine walks the line between laid-back and elegant, created from local ingredients. The Balaton Uplands provide the backdrop over dinner and spritzers. Zánka, Fő utca 7. facebook.com/ nekedfoztemzanka

ZOMÁNC BISZTRÓCSKA Sunday lunch here feels like having your very own Hungarian grandmother in the Balaton Uplands, with professionally executed traditional dishes served in classic retro red saucepans. Vászoly, Vazul utca 8. zomancbisztrocska.hu

KÁLI ART INN A fairy-tale garden with a rose arbour, fine flavours and timeless elegance typify this restaurant at a prime lodging. Fourcourse vegetarian dinner menus feature from Thursdays to Saturdays, tapas on other days. Non-guests must book. Köveskál, Fő utca 6-8. kaliartinn.hu 64

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KÁLI-MEDENCE & AROUND

5 PERFECT VANTAGE POINTS TO VIEW KÁLI-MEDENCE TÓTI HILL The smallest of Balaton’s monadnocks requires a Himalayan effort to climb the last few metres to the very top. From this volcanic cone, the nearby hills and Káli-medence are clearly visible. Káptalantóti, Tóti-hegy. kaptalantoti.hu

HEGYESTŰ Hungary’s most beautiful mining landscape, Hegyestű comprises basalt columns that now stand dramatically having once been quarried by human hand. To say nothing of the stunning panorama they also provide. Monoszló KOSSUTH LOOKOUT TOWER From atop this mound, you not only see Balaton, but South Bakony as well. En route, you can walk the Volcano Nature Trail, which leads to an old crater after a short detour. Mencshely, Halom-hegy

Tóti Hill

KOPASZ HILL To enjoy the view of the whole Káli-medence spread out below, you should set off from Mindszentkálla up to this point 330 metres high – then relax in one of the deckchairs at the Káli-kapocs bar. Mindszentkálla, Kopasz-hegy. mindszentkalla.hu/turautvonalak

KÁROLY EÖTVÖS LOOKOUT TOWER From here on Fekete Hill, little lakes spread out below, but for a full Balaton panorama, scale this tower. Köveskál, Fekete-hegy

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BADACSONY & AROUND This is a region of volcanoes and volcanic wines, medieval ruins and small wineries, with a legendary tale around every corner. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t come without your hiking boots, but as well as mountain trails, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll love the panoramic wine terraces away from the heat. We whisper a few tips to find the best snacks and which routes to cycle round the hills.

WE LOVE BALATON

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BADACSONY & AROUND

SZENT GYÖRGY HILL

CSOBÁNC

GULÁCS

POLISH CHAPEL

SZIGLIGET CASTLE

BADACSONY

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Tátika Restaurant (Ferenc Callmeyer/Fortepan)

BADACSONY & AROUND

Hableány ( Fortepan)

BADACSONY & AROUND

SZŐLŐSKERT RESTAURANT At the beautifully located former SZOT restaurant, modern meets traditional with the use of materials from the Balaton Uplands. Also formerly a discothèque, it now stands empty. Badacsony, Római út

5 ICONIC BUILDINGS IN BADACSONY HOUSING LOCAL HISTORY

JÓZSEF EGRY MEMORIAL MUSEUM Classic Balaton painter József Egry spent his last years in this three-storey villa, built in 1941 from carved basaltic stone using original architectural solutions. Closed in 2020 but worth a look from the outside. Badacsony, Egry József sétány 21

József Egry Memorial Museum

KISFALUDY HOUSE The previous owner of this 18th-century Baroque wine-press house was famed poet Sándor Kisfaludy. Today it features a panoramic restaurant and, fittingly, a wine terrace. Badacsony, Kisfaludy Sándor utca 28. kisfaludyhaz.hu

HABLEÁNY The Mermaid was Badacsony’s iconic place to be in the 1960s. In 2019, this large complex was revived and reopened as the hub of the Laposa estate, with a winery, restaurant and communal space. Badacsonytomaj, Park utca 26. hableanybadacsony.hu

TÁTIKA RESTAURANT This Badacsony landmark was built in late modernist style in 1962, based on the design of Ferenc Callmeyer. Its sheer glass wall was acclaimed as high-tech and pioneering in its day. Currently awaiting renovation. Badacsony, Egry József sétány 72

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BADACSONY & AROUND

Badacsonytomaj Town Beach

3 HISTORIC CASTLES TO CONQUER CSOBÁNC Once the site of a heroic battle, this picturesque ruin is today a favourite place for paragliders. The trek here takes about an hour, rewarded with a beautiful panoramic view. Gyulakeszi, Csobánchegy. csobancvar.hu SZIGLIGET ‘Balaton Castle’ merits a visit for the fine views, plus the concerts and exhibitions held here. Currently undergoing renovation, it is expected to reopen during the summer of 2020. Szigliget, Kisfaludy utca 20. szigligeti-var.hu

Szigliget

HEGYESD At 281 metres high, Hegyesd offers a reasonably challenging hike. You won’t see much of the 13th-century castle apart from its foundation stones, but the tranquillity alone merits the climb. Hegyesd. hegyesd.hu/hegyesd-bemutatasa/var-tortenete

3 BRILLIANT BEACHES IN AND AROUND BADACSONY BADACSONYTOMAJ TOWN BEACH Family-friendly beach with little pebbles and a playground, so put your blanket down early on summer weekends. The pipes and reception building were renovated a couple of years ago. Badacsonytomaj, by road 71 SZIGLIGET BEACH This spacious green oasis provides free parking, bike racks, sports courts, a kids’ splash area and rudd fish grilled by Oszi bácsi, in the soothing tree shade. A favourite on the north shore. Szigliget, Soponyai út FERENC HERCZEG BEACH Shallow water and a varied range of entertainment attract families here, with a volleyball court, a playground, organised water tours and an interactive exhibition. Badacsonylábdihegy, Vízpart utca 3. badacsonytordemic.hu/herczegferenc-strand

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BADACSONY & AROUND

10 RESTAURANTS FOR A GREAT GASTRONOMIC ADVENTURE

KIKÖTŐ RESTAURANT You can gaze at the bobbing sailboats while you dine, and don’t be afraid to pull your table just that little closer to the water. As for the food, home-made flavours, not filling fare, dominate the menu. Szigliget, Hajóállomás 1. kikotoetterem.hu

ISTVÁNDY ESTATE Sip divine Kéknyelű as you take in the wonderful panorama while Hungarian grey cattle graze nearby. Make sure to reserve a terrace table to enjoy Istvándy’s home-made fare, sourced right on the property. Káptalantóti, Hegymög vineyard

HABLEÁNY Opened in 2019, this restaurant is part of the Laposa Estate up the hill, with its winery and communal space. Here, a sunny terrace and a modern Balaton bistro kitchen await, with all the Laposa offerings. Badacsonytomaj, Park utca 26. hableanybadacsony.hu

TÖLGYES KÚRIA This 120-year-old mansion, revived in 2018 and surrounded by ancient oak trees, is the setting for romantic dinners and dream weddings. The kitchen combines Hungarian flavours with modern technological procedures. Káptalantóti, Riza. tolgyeskuria.hu

BORBARÁTOK Find self-proclaimed mildly innovative Hungarian cuisine and the romance of old Badacsony at this family restaurant, with accommodation, a little way out of the centre. Fata Cellar wines, almost 130 years old, may accompany your meal. Badacsonytomaj, Római út 88. borbaratok.hu

SZÁSZI ESTATE Admire Lake Balaton, Szigliget Castle and the Kabócás vineyards as you tuck into a seasonal dish selected from a concise gourmet menu. A glass of wine is a must, relaxing under the old almond tree. Hegymagas 035/7. szaszipince.hu

VILLA KABALA A Mediterranean-style villa formerly owned by a local painter houses this restaurant and guesthouse, where ingeniously reinvented Hungarian cuisine is served to diners on an expansive terrace. Szigliget, Kamonkői út 40. facebook.com/ villakabala

Hableány

PAP WINES Permaculture gardeners Áron Papa and partner Karina offer top-quality homegrown vegetarian tapas inspired by Mediterranean, Indian and Middle-Eastern cuisine, plus artisanal wines. Reservation is required if you want to guarantee a table. Hegymagas 935/1. papwines.com

KISFALUDY-HÁZ ÉTTEREM The Baroque press house where early 19th-century poet Sándor Kisfaludy once resided is now a Hungarian restaurant and wine terrace set in the heights of Badacsony, with a view to match. Badacsonytomaj, Kisfaludy Sándor utca 28. kisfaludyhaz.hu

ATTILA BAKOS FAMILY RESTAURANT The owner has been serving hearty Hungarian meaty dishes in a mini-museum setting for the last 25 years. Regulars are shown to their favourite table and only need to order with a nod. Szigliget, Iharos utca 4. bakosattilavendeglo.wixsite. com/vendeglo 76

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INTERVIEW

lnár (aka Karina Vissonova and Áron Mo sought-after Papa Áron) found a home on years together Szent György Hill after many ate vegetarian in Copenhagen. Here, they cre dle East and tapas inspired by India, the Mid bles grown the Mediterranean, from vegeta , and also offer in their permaculture garden their own wines.

Ka ri n a

Ároolnánr

Vi sson ov a

d you about the region WLBa: What was it that attracte mark? Den and made you move here from rgy Hill by accident or KV/ÁM: We came to Szent Gyö er. One cloudy day, we pref through fate, whichever you n we spotted whe t, lige were passing through Szig the light of the sun in ding a monadnock strangely stan said, ’that one’, just ally amid dark fields. Karina liter that we knew then was It and we turned towards it. our time in and turn a ng that our lives were also taki that Szent said e onc e eon Copenhagen was over. Som a very and – gary Hun of n György Hill is like the crow ed. beautiful crown jewel, inde

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BADACSONY & AROUND

frissTerasz

BADACSONY & AROUND

FRISSTERASZ This Laposa-run wine terrace is a relaxed communal spot and concert venue where you can sip, watch the game and forego dinner by popping to the bar for street food. Badacsonytomaj, Kisfaludy utca 1-3. frissterasz.hu PLÁNE BADACSONY WINE TERRACE Major wines and some from smaller cellars, a quality playlist, specialty coffee and plenty of stories, some told by the winemakers themselves. Badacsonytomaj, Park utca 18. facebook.com/planebadacsony VÁLIBOR It’s well worth seeking out this hidden estate at Badacsonyörs, where there’s a beautiful view and always a delicacy or two offered alongside the wines. Don’t miss Péter Váli’s Budai Zöld. Badacsonyörs, Major út 46. valibor.hu

CSENDES DŰLŐ WINE ESTATE This young family winery also supplies Michelin-starred restaurants. Time stands still as you relax on the recently expanded terrace, convivially sipping Kéknyelű. Badacsonyörs, Hegyalja út 69. csendes-dulo.hu FOLLY ARBORETUM AND WINERY Peace, tranquillity and birdsong – this is one of the quietest spots around Balaton. Sample the light wines of the Folly family under pines centuries old. Badacsonyörs, Kápolnavölgyi út 25. follyarboretum.hu

Csendes Dűlő Wine Estate

7 WINE TERRACES YOU WON’T WANT TO LEAVE

NYÁRI PINCE On the southern slopes of Szent György Hill, overlooking Badacsony and the Polish Chapel, you can sample the Nyári family’s interpretations of Kéknyelű, Rajnai Riesling and Szürkebarát. Hegymagas 881. nyaripince.hu

ISTVÁNDY WINE WORKSHOP This wine bar in a polished villa in the centre provides panoramic views to save you the hike. Live music or low-key jazz accompanies sunset, celebrated with a sparkling Kéknyelű. Badacsonytomaj, Római út 155. istvandy.hu 80

WE LOVE BALATON 2020 / SUMMER

BADACSONY & AROUND

GULÁCS The most difficult hill to climb, because of the often stony, steep terrain, with tricky signposting. But it’s worth battling with a little scrub for the sight of the abandoned quarry, Sér Well and the panorama.

BADACSONY The past of this old volcano 438 metres high is illustrated by the basalt organs seen as you conquer it. The hilltop is one of Balaton’s loveliest wooded areas, with Rózsakő, the Kisfaludy tower and the basalt road, a former labour camp, the main sights.

HALAP The youngest of the monadnocks, its peak hollowed out by basalt mining. A windy crater remains from the top of the former Daliás Hill, where an unearthly landscape with basalt forms have been made visible by quarrying. Somló and Badacsony can be seen from the rim.

SZENT GYÖRGY HILL Badacsony’s sibling should be visited for its romantic forest roads, basalt organs, wonderful view, small chapels and, of course, cellars offering sumptuous wines. The Stone Gate, the Polish Chapel and the ice cave are among the key landmarks.

SOMLÓ The odd one out here due to the distance from its siblings. On this plateau, the ruins of a medieval castle bear witness to centuries past, fiery white wines are made on its vineyards, and the panorama from the tower is sublime. The terrain isn’t tricky, but do keep your footing.

Gulács

5 FANTASTIC CLIMBS WORTH THE TREK

WE LOVE BALATON

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BADACSONY & AROUND

3 CLASSIC CYCLE TOURS AROUND THE FOOT OF BADACSONY BADACSONY LIGHT Római út is a route for slow, selfie-snapping, wine-sampling cyclists. From Badacsonytomaj to Tördemic, you can take in the vineyards, the chapels that appear between the vine rows and Lake Balaton. You can bring the kids, with rest stops a-plenty. MONADNOCK CIRCUIT On this longer tour, spiced with climbs and slopes, you can see the monadnocks from all sides while winding up. The section between Badacsonytomaj and Káptalantóti is beautifully panoramic. Turning from Tóti through Nemesgulács, towards Kisapáti, you reach Tapolca.

Badacsony light

Panoramic circuit

PANORAMIC CIRCUIT From Tapolca, you approach Szigliget through Hegymagas, bypassing the settlement, and from Tördemic, you continue your lovely tour along Római út around the foot of Badacsony. On the way, allow yourself a rewarding spritzer on Szent György Hill.

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KESZTHELY & HÉVÍZ Many head for the unique spa lake of Hévíz and its replenishing, healing waters unaware of the attractions nearby. In Keszthely, you find the sumptuous Festetics Palace, set in beautifully landscaped gardens, with lookout towers offering panoramic views from the surroundings hills. Near Balaton’s airport of Sármellék, the lesser lake of Kis-Balaton enjoys protected national park status.

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KESZTHELY & HÉVÍZ

VONYARCVASHEGY CHAPEL

LAKE HÉVÍZ

FESTETICS PALACE

SZÉPKILÁTÓ

KIS-BALATON

BALATON MUSEUM

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3 HISTORIC BUILDINGS IN KESZTHELY NOT TO BE MISSED FESTETICS PALACE AND PARK The palace may be closed for the time being, but its picture-postcard gardens ranging over ten hectares are well worth a stroll. Evergreens align in harmony around the park, with exotic plants and fine landscaping. Keszthely, Kastély utca 1. helikonkastely.hu LITTLE SAINT TERESA BASILICA The largest church in Hungary of the Carmelite Order, founded in the 12th century, was reclaimed by the Carmelite community in 1989. Beautifully Neo-Romanesque in style, it houses fine marble statuary. Keszthely, Tapolca út 1. karmeltemplom.hu

Little Saint Teresa Basilica

SYNAGOGUE In the courtyard of Goldmark House, the Synagogue underwent a much-needed reconstruction in the 1990s after tragic events in the past. Hidden behind it, an atmospheric little Biblical garden was also created around the same time. Keszthely, Kossuth Lajos utca 22

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SAINT MARY MAGDALENE CHURCH OF EGREGY This is one of the three Árpád-era churches left intact around Lake Balaton from the early Middle Ages. Its tower, visible from afar, is covered by an octagonal-shaped so-called ’winch helmet’. Hévíz, Egregyi szőlőhegy

HÉVÍZ LAKE BATHS It’s a special feeling to immerse yourself in these constantly moving waters, so no wonder the healing effect of the world’s largest natural source is steeped in legend. Hévíz, Dr Schulhof Vilmos sétány 1. heviz.hu

RUIN GARDENS These surroundings were densely populated around the time of the first century, but were only discovered as recently as 1931. The ruins of Villa Rustica, built around 100 AD, can be observed at the end of Attila út. Hévíz, Attila út

DR SCHULHOFF VILMOS SÉTÁNY This avenue lined with old plane trees has a separate history for each address. Novelist Zsigmond Móricz worked on Relations at the György House, named after statesman György Festetics. Hévíz. heviz.kornyeke.hu/dr-schulhofvilmos-setany

ROMAN SOLDIER’S GRAVE In 1925, this fourth-century tomb, which belonged to a partly used cemetery, was unearthed in Egregy, a cellarlined community just north of Hévíz. The skeleton of this soldier can be seen at its original site. Hévíz, Zrínyi utca 159

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Hévíz lake Baths

5 FASCINATING ATTRACTIONS TO SEE IN HÉVÍZ

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INTERVIEW

Móni

ni Sütis, is now Móni Kövérné Kalmár, aka Mó cakes. Fewer known beyond Balaton for her ty delight has know, however, that every frui its own story. WLBa: Which of your cakes are

Kövérné Kalmár

you most attached to?

ling Cake. About six years MKK: Maybe the Balaton Ries Circle to make a cake ago, I was asked by the Balaton ed to Lake Balaton and, that could be directly connect d to use Riesling wine. as a pre-condition, I was aske I needed just one bottle, It certainly didn’t go to waste. for the cream. Almonds half for the apple filling, half I’ve had a row of trees also play a significant role – 30 years, they signal in Balatongyörök for the last r, I took this cake to a the coming of spring. This yea plers, where it was highly prestigious professional sam I must admit, less often rated thanks to its simplicity. ling Cake delivers just is more. The Lake Balaton Ries ic view of the water from what you expect: a panoram shared conversation. a summer terrace, spritzers and

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Brix Bistro

KESZTHELY & HÉVÍZ

Öreg Harang

KESZTHELY & HÉVÍZ

ÖREG HARANG This place is worth the climb up Egregyi Hill, not only because of the awards this small restaurant has garnered. The use of local ingredients is taken seriously at the Old Bell, where a relaxed and special welcome can be expected. Hévíz, Zrínyi utca 181. oregharang.hu

5 RESTAURANTS SERVING OUTSTANDING CUISINE

FÜSTÖLGŐ MARHA Ask for Western and Eastern street food, and allergy-free dishes, from this globe-trotting chef, happy to tell you about the food when it arrives. The burgers feature Angus and buffalo patties, the sauces are made in-house. Keszthely, Martinovics utca 1B. fustolgomarha.hu

Füstölgő Marha

BOCK BISTRO BALATON Partnered with the Bock wine and a gastronomic dynasty, this spot offers panoramic views and Zala specialities from dödölle to tócsni. The pike perch is prepared Keszthely-style. Vonyarcvashegy, Helikon utca 22. bockbisztrobalaton.hu

FARM INN FOGADÓ At this hidden tavern in Zala, the kitchen shows no trace of age-old csárda tradition. Fresh that day, seasonal raw materials are prepared by a German chef with a Hungarian gastronomic background. Zalacsány, Örvényeshegy 20. facebook. com/farminnzalacsany

BRIX BISZTRÓ At this new-wave bistro in the Bonvital Hotel, Hungarian dishes are the main focus, but the goats’ cheeseburgers and tuna wraps appeal to the many international visitors. Hévíz, Rákóczi utca 16-18. bonvital.accenthotels.com/hu/brix-bistro 96

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Mónisüti

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Promenád Kávéház

KESZTHELY & HÉVÍZ

TULIPÁN KÁVÉHÁZ In this lovely shaded garden, forget about your everyday worries as you relax and tuck into a slice of cake. Early opening hours mean you can also have breakfast in this elegant 19th-century setting, once a hotel in its day. Keszthely, Erzsébet királyné útja 30

5 PLACES OFFERING THE SWEETEST DELIGHTS

JORDANICS CONFECTIONERY This Keszthely mainstay has managed to keep its quality for generations. Find the finest ice cream in the pedestrianised zone right in the heart of town. Keszthely, Pethő utca 7. jordanics.hu

Tulipán Kávéház

MÓNISÜTI Móni Kalmár Kövérné’s confectionery, ’Sütis Móni’, with its kids’ corner, attracts fans of rustic and fresh-fruit cakes. In all, 15 types of layered cake are made daily, with organic Italian coffee available. Gyenesdiás, Madách utca 46. facebook.com/monisuti

LEL KI FŐZDE Gluten-, lactose- and sugar-free baked goods, cakes, pies and biscuits are available at this Keszthely pâtisserie, decorated in pastel colours, which already has other franchise outlets. Keszthely, Zsidi út 7. facebook.com/lelkifozde

PROMENÁD KÁVÉHÁZ In addition to the match-winning views, it’s worth turning off Road 71 to treat yourself to a homemade cake and ice cream or a hearty and healthy breakfast. Balatongyörök, Felsőcsetényi utca 50. facebook.com/ Promenád-Kávéház-568362830185819 98

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5 LOOKOUT POINTS FOR PERFECT SELFIES SZÉPKILÁTÓ From the rest spot with a car park, benches, restaurants, a Roman-era spring, you can also see the lake, the monadnocks and the hills of Fonyód, which stand out from the southern shore. Balatongyörök, by road 71

BERZSENYI LOOKOUT TOWER Rebuilt in 2002, this lookout tower allows you to see almost half of Transdanubia in clear weather, sometimes even as far as the transmission tower in Pécs. The red trail leads here from Vonyarcvashegy train station. Gyenesdiás, Pető-hegy FESTETICS LOOKOUT TOWER Renovated in 2000, the 235-metre Festetics Lookout Tower overlooks Keszthely Bay and the woods of Keszthely hills. It can also be reached from Nagymező and Hunyadi utca. Gyenesdiás, Kerek-hegy

Szépkilátó

BÉL MÁTYÁS LOOKOUT TOWER To climb 221-metre-high Garga Hill, leave the car at the pretty parking spot, and find this wooden lookout tower with a panorama over the lake. Built in 1972, it was revamped in 2013. Balatongyörök, Garga-hegy. balatongyorok.hu/en/programok/kilatok

PADKŰI LOOK-OUT TOWER From the lookout on this 408-metre hilltop, you can see not only the Keszthely Bay, but also take in the shores of Somogy in clear weather. Vállus, taking the green trail from Csereze utca, Vonyarcvashegy. balatongyorok.hu/latnivalok/kilatok

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5 BEACHES FOR LAZY SUMMERTIME RELAXATION BALATONGYÖRÖK BEACH Beach volleyball and waterpolo courts, a children’s pool, a sandy shorefront and a long, pebble beach: Balatongyörök really does have it all, and even the gastronomic offer is above average. Balatongyörök, Kossuth Lajos utca balatongyorok.hu/ latnivalok/strandolas VONYARCVASHEGY LIDÓ BEACH A wakeboard and water-ski course, a huge slide, an outdoor gym and acres of green space – no wonder this is one of the most popular lidos in the area. The long, sandy waterfront is a plus. Vonyarcvashegy, Fürdő utca 1. vonyarcvashegy.hu/strand DIÁS PLAY BEACH Regularly listed among the best Balaton beaches, this fun plunge zone is a paradise for families, where children can frolic at a well-equipped aquatic playground. Gyenesdiás, Strand utca 3. gyenesdias. info.hu/strandok/diasi-jatekstrand

Vonyarcvashegy Lidó Beach

LIBÁS BEACH Alongside Keszthely marina, sandy Libás Beach is the newest to be built in town. Once left to the geese (libák), this is now a showcase for pleasure yachts and a place for ambient live music on summer evenings. Keszthely, Libás strand. facebook.com/LibasStrand PANNON UNIVERSITY WATER SPORTS GROUND Next door to the Hotel Helikon near the Pecás food stall, this pier is the ideal location for tanning, taking a peaceful morning swim or lounging around alfresco, all for a few hundred forints. Keszthely, Csárda utca

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BALATONBOGLÁR & AROUND This is a world of hills stretching into picturesque vistas, plentiful bird life, endless straight roads and tiny beaches down cul-desacs. Twixt lake and grove, Badacsony spreads at arm’s length, the fine wine here competing with its northern counterpart. In this Bermuda triangle of Boglár, Lelle and Fonyód, it’s great to get lost.

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GÖMB GLOBE CSAVARGŐZÖS

VÁRHEGY LOOKOUT TOWER

SZENT DONÁT CHAPEL

KISHEGY FONYÓD VILLAS

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Csavargőzös

BALATONBOGLÁR & AROUND

St László Memorial Site

BALATONBOGLÁR & AROUND

CRYPT VILLA This unusual sight was built by a lovelorn fiancé for his would-be bride who died before they could be wed. Within, the couple are carved in marble. Fonyód, József utca 16. facebook.com/ villakavezo ZOLTÁN LATINOVITS MEMORIAL MUSEUM By the cemetery where this actor lies buried, a memorial house covers his work and a statue honours him in bronze. Balatonszemes, Bajcsy-Zsilinszky utca 52. szemesimuvhaz.hu/ latinovits-zoltan-emlekmuzeum

ST LÁSZLÓ MEMORIAL SITE From an exhibition about the legends of László I, visitors then head up a long staircase to the ruins of a former Benedictine abbey, and a lookout post. Somogyvár, Kupavárhegy. facebook.com/somogyvariapatsag

Crypt Villa

5 FASCINATING SIGHTS THAT SHINE A LIGHT ON LOCAL HISTORY

DÁNIEL BERZSENYI MEMORIAL HOUSE Most only know this poet from schoolbooks, but his museum brings him closer in real life. His letters, pipes and musical instruments are all on display. Nikla, Berzsenyi Dániel utca 96. niklainfo.hu CSAVARGŐZÖS The second oldest boat at Balaton has been converted into a mini-museum – from the roof, you can picture what it was like when it was sailing the lake. Balatonboglár, Mólosétány. csavargozos.hu 108

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Kristinus Gastro Műhely

BALATONBOGLÁR & AROUND

ROCKBURGER This all began when a guy inherited and revamped a classic Balaton wine bar. Years later, guests still come back to sink their teeth into a Deep Purple burger. Balatonlelle, Rákóczi út 194. facebook.com/rockburgerofficial KRISTINUS GASTRO MŰHELY You find outstanding cuisine at this wine estate in Kéthely, where dishes differ from the normal. After your meal, take your seat in their little on-site cinema. Kéthely, Hunyadi utca 99. kristinus.hu PALETTA BISZTRÓ If you’re lost around Boglár harbour, Paletta is a fixed point for sailors and newcomers. Something will be sizzling on the grill while chef Dani Bezerics surprises with his creations. Balatonboglár, Kikötő utca 6. palettabisztro.hu

7 DINING DESTINATIONS SERVING DIVINE FARE KISTÜCSÖK ÉTTEREM For 25 years, Balázs Csapody has been building his internationally renowned restaurant, sourcing carp and asparagus locally. In summer, diners must wait their turn. Balatonszemes, Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út 25. kistucsok.hu

Kistücsök étterem

PAVILON You couldn’t tell by looking at this retro building but the pizzas and pastas here are superb. A secret favourite, Pavilon is being discovered by more diners every year. Balatonboglár, Kodály Zoltán utca 45-49

BL YACHTCLUB & APARTMENTS Lelle marina is a reliable place to dine, whether you’re a hotel guest or not. BBQ is a successful hangover from 2019 and complements menu options. Balatonlelle, Köztársaság út 36-38. blyc.hu KEDVESEM BISZTRÓ The former Mango changed its name, but its kitchen hasn’t missed a beat, and its curd-cheese dumplings make the stroll here along the promenade that much more worthwhile. Balatonlelle, Móló sétány. facebook.com/kedvesembisztro 110

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INTERVIEW

István

r at the Fonyód Researcher and deputy directo seum Collection, Cultural Centre, Library and Mu on local history. István Varga publishes books t project. We asked him about his curren

Varga

r current research WLBa: What is the focus of you ing or important? and what makes it so interest ing several anniversaries, IV: Fonyód will soon be celebrat foundation of the Roman including the centenary of the tly helped in this by Count Catholic parish. They were grea Castle, of Fonyód villas fame, Béla Zichy, Lord of Lengyeltót for the benefit of the parish. who provided 100 acres of land s Ify then arrived to help Legendary parish priest Lajo r mayor of Budapest and rebuild the church in 1921. Late Ripka also contributed. Bélatelep villa owner Ferenc ld no longer accommodate The small chapel in Fonyód cou to Balaton’s south shore, the growing number of visitors nd the church. This all gave which is why they had to expa on this subject, which I plan me the idea to write a history to publish by 2021.

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Gömb Panoramic Globe

3 FABULOUS CONFECTIONERIES WORTH THE TREK MESTER CONFECTIONERY, CAFÉ & RESTAURANT The menu here takes in burgers, bagels and burritos but it’s also worth heading over for the desserts: the creamy cakes and ice creams almost sell themselves. Marcali, Rákóczi utca 2-4. facebook.com/mesteretterem MÁRTON CONFECTIONERY Namesake Lajos Márton is a knight of the Confectionery Order, creating his treats from homemade cream and organic fruit for 50 years. Free parking and long queues in season. Balatonlelle, Rákóczi út 241. facebook.com/ martoncukraszdabalatonlelle

ST DONAT’S CHAPEL This hidden pearl of Kishegy is crowned by a chapel dedicated to the patron saint of vineyards in 1758. Mass is held on St Donat’s Day, in Wine Week. Balatonlelle, Kishegy. balatonlelle.hu/hu/kishegy

Geleta Confectionery

3 VANTAGE POINTS TO ADMIRE THE NORTH SHORE

GELETA CONFECTIONERY Close by, it’s probably no coincidence that Balázs Geleta name is akin to the Italian gelato. You’ll get the connection by tasting the confection: divine ice-cream sundaes. Balatonlelle, Rákóczi utca 269. geletacukraszda.hu

VÁRHEGYI SZÉPLÁTÓ At 281 metres tall, this rebuilt lookout tower provides a full panorama of the northern coast and inner Somogy. Around the base, a communal barbecue and playground attract families. Fonyód, Várhegy utca. fonyodert.hu/kilatok GÖMB PANORAMIC GLOBE This post-war symbol of the southern shore was created for the 1958 World Expo in Brussels and ended up here. It offers fine views across the lake and a picnic area below. Balatonboglár, Kilátó utca. balatonikaland.hu/vardomb 114

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Garamvári Winery

BALATONBOGLÁR & AROUND

KONYÁRI WINERY The Konyári family has set up their winery and matching Italian-style guesthouse, both open to visitors, in a beautiful grove with a Mediterranean feel. Balatonlelle, Kishegy. konyari.hu BUJDOSÓ WINERY One of the most well-known winemaking families of south Balaton make your visit worthwhile, offering local stories and hiking tips, as well as wines to sample. Balatonlelle, Várszói út. bujdoso.com IKON WINERY Lovers of red wine will be the first to feel at home in this unusual, fortified building, but the selection of rosés and whites also features outstanding examples. Látrány, Szent Borbála utca 1. ikonboraszat.hu

7 WINERIES WORTH THE CLIMB UP KISHEGY HEGYI BORTERASZ Beyond the clichéd Hungarian csárda, with a view as far as Badacsony on a good day, here they serve modern Magyar cuisine, their own elderflower cordial a summer salvation. Balatonlelle-Kishegy. hegyicsarda.hu

Bujdosó Winery

PÓCZ WINERY More hidden away, this winery and terrace offer the quality expected from Kishegy, perhaps even a notch above – make sure to contact them in advance for tastings. Balatonlelle, Kishegy telep 107/6 poczpinceszet.hu

MAJTHÉNYI PRÉSHÁZ Alongside St Donatus Chapel, the Konyári family run this restaurant where you won’t be disappointed by the quality of the lamb, even the rarely found quail. Balatonlelle-Kishegy, Panoráma utca. majthenyi.hu GARAMVÁRI WINERY At this wine paradise, you can find all the varieties typical of the region and their real pride and joy: champagne made with sophisticated technology. Balatonlelle, Kishegyi utca 42. garamvariszolobirtok.hu 116

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Boglári Buborék Fun Pool

BALATONBOGLÁR & AROUND

Fonyód Dog Beach

BALATONBOGLÁR & AROUND

BALATONFENYVESI BIG FREE BEACH If you’re looking for active recreation, here you’ll find all kinds of outdoor fun, from beach volleyball to surfing and water basketball. Balatonfenyves, Balatonpart utca BALATONMÁRIAFÜRDŐ CENTRAL BEACH This vast green area offers activities such as football on grass, streetball and beach volleyball. If you get tired of ball games, jump into a pedalo. Balatonmáriafürdő, Gróf Széchenyi Imre tér 9. balatonmariafurdo.hu/ strandok

LELLE NAPFÉNY BEACH This bathing spot has everything you might need for the beach: a long stretch of sand, a lido, a sauna, a fun pool with a huge slide and a whole raft of water sports. Balatonlelle, Napospart utca 3. facebook.com/napfenystrand BOGLÁRI BUBORÉK FUN POOL Children will love the Boglári Bubbles aqua playground set alongside Platán Beach – here they can splash all day long on the slides and other fun features. Balatonboglár, Platán tér. balatonikaland.hu/buborek-elmenyfurdo

Balatonfenyvesi Big Free Beach

5 ICONIC BEACHES WITHIN EASY REACH

FONYÓD DOG BEACH A huge outdoor paradise for Fido and Pluto, with a jetty, plenty of grass, shade and a fine view over to Badacsony. Nobody will bat an eyelid if you take the plunge here together with your pooch. Fonyód, Vitorlás utca. facebook.com/kutyasstrand 118

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SIÓFOK & AROUND Considered Balaton’s party town, Siófok and its surroundings have much more to offer. Miles of beaches, buffets serving quality beach food, intimate hiking trails, atmospheric restaurants, hills, forests, meadows and reeds characterise the area. And whoever is hungry for culture should be well sated.

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WATER TOWER ZAMÁRDI BEACH

SZÁNTÓD FERRY

SIÓFOK BEACH

TÖREKI LAKES

KŐHEGY LOOKOUT TOWER

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Sailing History Visitor Centre

SIÓFOK & AROUND

Törek Lakes

SIÓFOK & AROUND

SIÓFOK WATER TOWER This iconic landmark on Siófok’s main square can be explored inside and out. Head up to the open panoramic rotating terrace for fantastic views and a drink at the café. Siófok, Fő tér 11. viztorony.com KEREK CASTLE The ruins of Fehérkő Castle are 282 metres high. Mentioned in chronicles in 1338, the fortress suffered one siege too many, and proved no match for the invading Turks. Kereki, Amaliapuszta

TÖREK LAKES Who would think that a natural idyll of lakes, woods, reeds, waterfowl, undisturbed countryside and a nature trail could be found so close to Siófok’s crowded centre? Siófok, Töreki utca KŐHEGY LOOKOUT TOWER A broad panoramic view opens up before you as you head towards this lookout tower in Zamárdi. Local legend has it that Jesus once appeared at nearby Szamárkő. Zamárdi, Kőhegy, Kilátó dűlő. zamardi.hu/kilato

Kőhegy Lookout Tower

5 FANTASTIC ATTRACTIONS TO DISCOVER IN AND AROUND SIÓFOK

SAILING HISTORY VISITOR CENTRE An amazing panoramic lookout tower and an interactive exhibition in one – this modern, multi-functional attraction sits atop the natural embankment wall. Balatonföldvár, Erzsébet utca 50. balatonfoldvarikilato.hu 124

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Egy Csipet Nádas

SIÓFOK & AROUND

Déli Part BBQ

SIÓFOK & AROUND

ROZMARING KISKERT VENDÉGLŐ ÉS PIZZÉRIA This little eatery hidden along a quiet side street is a purveyor of fine Italian cuisine, promising ‘a drop of Tuscany’ by Lake Balaton. Siófok, Akácfa utca 53. facebook.com/rozmaring.pizzeria KISKERT VENDÉGLŐ Local ingredients, own-made cordials, regional wine and sous-vide cuisine have helped Ágnes Südy and Szilárd Horváth create a quality Hungarian eatery in holiday central. Siófok, Vécsey Károly utca 10. facebook.com/kiskertvendeglo

EGY CSIPET NÁDAS You won’t believe that you can find a restaurant that is so quiet and idyllic in Siófok – with a quality menu too. Squirrels love running around Csipet’s own herb garden. Siófok, Töreki utca 40. egycsipetnadas.hu DÉLI PART BBQ This is a barbecue experience to be enjoyed alongside the Sió Canal, where meat lovers bond with the pitmaster after he sizzles up and brings out their burgers or beef slices. Siófok, Vámház utca 2. facebook.com/delipartbbq MALA GARDEN Acclaimed hotel and restaurant in one whose high quality complements a Balinese sensitivity. It takes its Oriental cuisine seriously, and its eclectic menu passes by Mexico and Hungary. Siófok, Petőfi sétány 15A. malagarden.hu 126

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Rozmaring Kiskert Vendéglő és Pizzéria

5 SPECIAL RESTAURANTS WORTH INVESTIGATING IN SIÓFOK

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INTERVIEW

Zsu zshaá sz

In 2019, the Tiki Beach Bisztró in Zamárdi won Beach Dish of the Year with pick led-cucumber soup. We asked Tiki’s Zsuzsa Orb án-Juhász about her menu for 2020.

u J n á b r O

WLBa: After last year’s win, wha t are you planning for 2020? Zs O-J: Up to now, we’ve had a fixed menu, plus daily specials. We now plan a varied selection every week, but we’ll keep some dishes esse ntial to the menu. What remains the same is fresh, qua lity food made from local ingredients. Every year, we cho ose a Tiki dish that we keep until the end of the season. We work on it all year round then finalise it by early summer . That’s how it was with the pickled cucumber, which started as a simple idea: let’s make soup the dish for 2019! Our two chefs went beyond that, as they prepared both soup and egg-barley pudding. Its creator, Zoltán Tótfalusi, is with us again. And the dish for 2020? Pumpkin! How will it work out? There are loads of ways, it’s very Hungarian, sum mery and fresh. We’re full of ideas – let’s invent!

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Zamárdi Adventure Park

SUPPORT Here you can take to the SUP board any time and do battle with the waves of Balaton. The braver ones can even do yoga on the water – anyone dare taking their dog on too? Zamárdi, Harcsa utca. supshop.hu/tag/zamardi UGRANI JÓ Those apprehensive about leaping out of a Mi-8 helicopter should feel assured once they arrive at Kiliti airport and link themselves to an experienced tandem jumper. Siófok-Kiliti, Szekszárd út 1. ugranijo.hu VIHARSAROK SAILING CENTRE Set sail aboard a pirate ship or a catamaran, or take to the Balaton waves riding a surfboard. Friendly, experienced instructors await beginners and old hands. Balatonföldvár, Keleti strand, Somogyi Béla utca. viharsarok.hu

7 THRILLING ACTIVITIES FOR ALL AGES ZAMÁRDI ADVENTURE PARK An early sign of summer is when this outdoor attraction opens up, its lake and jump tower beside adventure courses of varying degrees of difficulty. Zamárdi, Siófoki út. zamardikalandpark.hu

Gokart Balaton

SIOFOK BIG WHEEL Those who couldn’t quite face the skydiving jump can comfort themselves with a ride on this 50-metre-high wheel, usually installed at the start of high season. Siófok, Petőfi sétány. siofokoriaskerek.hu

GOKART BALATON 400 metres of asphalt await those who want to zoom under supervised conditions. Safety comes first but this should still bring out everyone’s inner Fittipaldi. Siófok, Jégverem utca. gokartbalaton.hu BAMBOO ISLAND Ideal for those who want to try out water skiing, wakeboarding or similar activities at speeds of 30 kilometres per hour – then sink into a deckchair on the shore. Siófok-Szabadifürdő, Csúszda utca 1. bamboosziget.hu 130

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SIÓFOK & AROUND

3 BEACHES TO BEAT THE HEAT

SIÓFOK BIG BEACH For bustling beach activity, this is the place to come. Near prominent Petőfi Promenade, families will enjoy the sandy shoreline, playground and shallow water. Siófok, Petőfi sétány 3. facebook.com/siofokinagystrand BALATONFÖLDVÁR WEST BEACH Stretch out in the shade of giant trees, rent a pedalo, learn how to SUP or play a game of giant chess at this Földvár bathing spot. Balatonföldvár, Rákóczi Ferenc utca 32

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Siófok Big Beach

ZAMÁRDI BIG BEACH This waterfront three kilometres long hosts major festivals. A free beach, the area isn’t fenced-off, with buffets and benches dotted around, and lined with a long promenade. Zamárdi, Margó Ede sétány. zamardi.hu/nagystrand

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First statue of Kossuth

3 HIDDEN TREASURES TO EXPLORE OUTSIDE SIÓFOK FIRST STATUE TO KOSSUTH In July 1894, four months after he died in Turin, the first statue to the statesman Lajos Kossuth was unveiled here, on the street later named after him. Balatonszabadi, Kossuth/ Enyingi utca. balatonszabadi.hu HETYE CHURCH RUINS The church in the deserted village of Hetye was mentioned in medieval writings. By the time the Ottomans left, it had become known as the Turkish Legacy. Today it is a protected monument. Ádánd outskirts. adand.hu/nevezetessegeink

Hetye Church Ruins

KÁS CASTLE It’s a fair hike from Nyim to the remains of this castle, built with earth in the time of Árpád in the early 900s. There are no walls, only deep ditches, embankments and the spirit of history. Nyim, Kás-puszta. nyim.hu/turisztika/latnivalok

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