We Love Hungary pocket guide – Summer 2020

DINING BIKING DINING BIKING WINE HIKING

FREE COPY

WINE HIKING

SUMMER

2020 SUMMER / 2020

INTRODUCTION After the spring shutdown, the summer revival sees restaurants, sights and wineries welcoming visitors once more. As people kick back, it’s high time to reassess and revere this country’s qualities, its timeless landscapes, its outstanding gastronomy, its fine wines, its active attractions.

Much like the locals, our expert editorial crew and star photographers have adapted to circumstances with an eye to the future. The festivals haven’t gone away, foreign tourists will return. In the meantime, we focus on the key spots of Sopron, Eger, Tokaj, Debrecen, Szeged and Pécs and surroundings, spanning Hungary to show you all the colour, character and current reinvention of this eternally fascinating land.

Due to the pandemic, the opening hours of some venues recommended here may have changed from the regular ones, so always check before you set off.

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CUSTOM PUBLISHING

2020 Launched in 2011, We Love Budapest covers the city’s openings and happenings in Hungarian and English, with a daily stream of original, independent digital content.

Along with our editions for Budapest, Balaton and Hungary, we produce event-focused, custom-published guides. Working in partnership, we create and adapt high-quality material in English and Hungarian to suit clients’ needs.

Throughout 2020, look out for our six seasonally focused printed guides to Budapest, Balaton and Hungary.

BUDAPEST

Tips, maps, explainers and interviews help you discover the capital, the country and its main getaway resort.

Hungary’s elegant capital is known for its ornate baths, historic sights and fine cuisine.

This summer, the accent is on alfresco leisure, the city opening up cycle lanes and its scenic Danube promenade.

Distributed free nationwide!

BALATON

HUNGARY

Hungary’s prime family summer retreat still offers plenty of quality dining, fine wines and outdoor activities. Look out for our regularly updated website welovebalaton.hu/en in English.

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With national parks and palaces, wildlife and wineries, spa-blessed Hungary has attractions from Baroque Sopron in the west to bucolic Hortobágy in the east.

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CONTENTS

CONTENTS

CONTENTS SOPRON & AROUND

TOKAJ, ZEMPLÉN & UPPER TISZA

Discover Sopron & surroundings in 3 days.................................................... 26 5 must-see sights in the centre of Sopron..................................................... 28 5 marvellous museums that shed light on Sopron’s history................... 30 7 exciting attractions to discover outside Sopron........................................32 EXPLAINER – From Roman baths to supermarket shelves...................... 34 5 outstanding restaurants to choose from in Sopron ............................... 36

Discover Tokaj & surroundings in 3 days........................................................66 5 fascinating destinations that delineate Tokaj history ...........................68 5 dramatic castles worth seeking out around Tokaj.................................. 70 EXPLAINER – The miracle of Máriapócs...........................................................72 5 special restaurants worth investigating in the wine region................. 74 5 wonderful wineries for alfresco sipping...................................................... 76 3 fantastic family days out around Upper Tisza........................................... 78

EGER, MISKOLC, THE MÁTRA & THE BÜKK

DEBRECEN & AROUND

Discover Eger & surroundings in 3 days.......................................................... 42 5 unmissable sights to admire in Eger............................................................44 EXPLAINER – Eger, pioneer of aviation...........................................................46 7 great gastronomic options in and around Eger........................................48 7 super sampling spots for fine wines in and around Eger......................50 5 fascinating attractions in the region............................................................. 52 5 unmissable attractions in Miskolc.................................................................54 7 delicious dining destinations in Miskolc..................................................... 56 5 adventurous hikes around the Mátra........................................................... 58 5 adventurous hikes around the Bükk............................................................60

Discover Debrecen & surroundings in 3 days................................................84 5 main attractions not to miss in Debrecen..................................................86 5 outdoor adventures hiking or biking around Debrecen........................ 88 EXPLAINER – Why are there nine holes in the Nine-Hole Bridge?........90 7 delicious dining destinations in Debrecen.................................................. 92 7 active ways to discover Hortobágy...............................................................94 5 essential reasons to visit Hajdúszoboszló..................................................96 7 great reasons to be at Lake Tisza in summer............................................98

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CONTENTS

CONTENTS

SZEGED & AROUND

PÉCS & AROUND

Discover Szeged & surroundings in 3 days...................................................104 7 unmissable sights in Szeged..........................................................................106 5 spectacular Art Nouveau buildings in downtown Szeged.................. 108 EXPLAINER – Slippers from Szeged.................................................................110 7 outstanding restaurants worth investigating in Szeged....................... 112 5 top spots in Szeged for coffee and cake..................................................... 114 5 outstanding attractions in Gyula................................................................... 116 5 fascinating attractions just outside Szeged............................................... 118

Discover Pécs & surroundings in 3 days........................................................ 124 7 fascinating attractions to discover in Pécs................................................126 EXPLAINER – The mystic bull of Pécs.............................................................128 7 natural attractions to admire in and around Pécs................................. 130 7 great gastronomic destinations in and around Pécs.............................132 5 top spots for drinking in Pécs, indoors and out......................................134

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We love Budapest, Balaton, Hungary and the holidays, but to enjoy them and keep quarantine at bay, here are some simple tips that should still be part of your daily routine while you’re here!

Wear gloves. A pair is recommended if you touch anything like a handrail, a door handle or a button that many others have already pressed.

Wear a mask whenever you’re indoors. It may be warm and uncomfortable, but it protects against infection. Take it with you into any bar or restaurant before you eat or drink.

Keep your distance. Queuing at any food stand, spa or bar, remain a minimum of 1.5 metres from the nearest customer.

Disinfect. Hand sanitisers are freely available, even on tables in restaurants.

Use them regularly – and always wash your hands with soap after you enter anywhere.

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USEFUL INFOR MATION

USEFUL INFOR MATION

WELCOME TO HUNGARY!

HUNGARY BY PLANE

Visitors from the EU, the US, Canada, Australia and many other countries do not require a visa for stays of up to 90 days in Hungary.

Extraordinary regulations brought in due to the pandemic in March 2020 effectively closed the borders to foreigners without permanent residence in Hungary – changes in this situation were ongoing throughout June 2020.

The Hungarian currency is the forint (HUF). Currently, there are 350 forints to €1, 380 forints to £1 and 310 forints to $1. A beer costs about 700 HUF/€2.

Tipping is standard in taxis, bars and restaurants. The custom is to round up the figure by about 10% and suggest this to the driver or server. If drinks cost 1,800 forints, say ‘2,000’ as you pay, even across a bar counter. Most service staff speak English.

Budapest Airport (bud.hu) is 16km south-east of the capital.

Budapest terminals 2A or 2B are in adjacent buildings. Outside, a kiosk dispatches Főtaxi (fotaxi.hu) cabs to the city centre, a journey costing about 8,000 HUF/€23.

Past the taxi booth are two bus stops and a ticket machine which accepts cash (in forints) and credit cards, and gives change.

The two buses here require different tickets. The direct 100E service was closed during the pandemic shutdown. As and when it reopens, you will require a 900-forint (€2.60) ticket – look out for the plane logo on the option menu. It runs into the city centre, calling at Kálvin tér and Deák tér. Allow 40mins to 1hr journey time.

The other airport bus stop is for the 200E, currently running as far as Nagyvárad tér metro station (journey time 35mins) on blue metro line M3. This requires a standard BKK transport ticket (350 HUF/€1), as does the onward journey into town.

Debrecen airport (debrecenairport.com), 5km south of Hungary’s second city, serves Wizz Air flights, including from London Luton.

A DKV city bus links with Debrecen station, journey time 12mins.

HUNGARY BY BUS Volánbusz (volanbusz.hu) provides direct services to destinations which trains cannot reach. Tickets can be bought online or from the main bus station in Budapest at Népliget, on metro line 3.

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USEFUL INFOR MATION

USEFUL INFOR MATION

HUNGARY BY TRAIN

VOCABULARY

The four main train stations in Budapest are Keleti, Nyugati, Déli and Kelenföld. Each has a metro station of the same name, on the capital’s colour-coded four-line network.

Trains are run by MÁV (mavcsoport.hu) and tickets can be bought online or from ticket offices and machines at stations, foreign credit cards accepted.

Seat reservations are required for faster InterCity services.

HUNGARY BY CAR Hungary has more than a dozen motorways, the main ones being the M1 between Budapest and the Austrian border, the M3 east from Budapest, the M7 between Budapest and Lake Balaton, and the M0 ring road. The M5 and M6 serve Szeged and Pécs respectively.

There are no toll gates – buy a permit online (e-autopalyamatrica.hu) or at any petrol station. Minimum validity period is ten days (3,500 HUF/€10).

HUNGARY BY BIKE Many areas of Hungary are perfect for cyclists, with more than 2,000 kilometres of routes, tours and trails. Cycle hire is also possible in all major towns.

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Yes igen (ee-gen) No nem (nemm) Good morning jó reggelt (yo reg-gelt) Good day jó napot (yo na-pot) Good evening Jó estét (yo esh-tayt) Good night jó éjszakát (yo ey-sak-kaht) Goodbye viszontlátásra (vis-sont-lah-tahsh-rra) Bye viszlát (vis-slaht) Hi/bye szia (see-ya) Please kérem (kair-rem) Thank you köszönöm (kur-sur-numm) Thanks köszi (kur-see) How much is mennyibe kerül (men-nyi-beh kair-ruel) One egy (edj) Two két/kettő (kayt/ket-turr) Three három (hahr-rum) Four négy (naidj) Five öt (urt) Six hat (hot) Seven hét (hayt) Eight nyolc (nyolts) Nine kilenc (kee-lents) Ten tíz (teez) Twenty húsz (hooss) Hundred száz (sahzz) Thousand ezer (ezzer) Two thousand kétezer (kayt-ezzer) Ten thousand tízezer (teez-ezzer) Where is… Hol van (hohl vahn) 2020 / SUMMER

Restaurant étterem (eyt-ter-em) Menu étlap (eyt-lapp) Lunch ebéd (eb-bayd) Dinner vacsora (vatch-ora) Vegetarian vegetáriánus (veg-ge-tayr-ri-ah-nush) Table asztal (ass-tahl) Wine bor (borr) Beer sör (shurr) Water víz (veez) Coffee kávé (kah-vay) Sugar cukor (tsook-korr) Milk tej (tay) Knife kés (kaysh) Fork villa (vil-la) Spoon kanál (kan-nahl) Teaspoon kiskanál (kish-kan-nahl) Plate tányér (tahn-yairr) Saucer csészealj (tchay-se-ay) Bill számla (sahm-la) The bill, please A számlát kérem (Uh sahm-laht kair-rem) Tip borravaló (borr-ah-vah-lo) Airport repülőtér (rep-puhl-urrtair) Train station pályaudvar (pie-ya-ood-vahr) Local station állomás (ahl-lo-mahsh) Train vonat (von-naht) Bus busz (buss) Tram villamos (vil-la-mosh) Petrol/gas station benzinkút (ben-zinn-koot)

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INTRODUCTION

INTRODUCTION

HUNGARY

BY REGION TOKAJ, ZEMPLÉN & UPPER TISZA (pages 62-79) EGER, MISKOLC, THE MÁTRA & THE BÜKK (pages 38-61)

SOPRON & AROUND (pages 22-37)

DEBRECEN & AROUND (pages 80-99)

SZEGED & AROUND (pages 100-119)

PÉCS & AROUND (pages 120-135)

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B I NATLRAOT DO U N C &T I A OR NO U N D

B A L A TI N O TNR &O DAURCOTUI N ON D

10 best things to do this summer

Take to the water at Lake Tisza

Discover the natural wonders of the second largest lake in Hungary by boat, kayak or canoe, a perfect day out from Eger or Debrecen.

Explore Szilvásvárad

Between Eger and Miskolc, ride the forest train through the beautiful Szalajka Valley and past the Fátyol waterfall before a hike to the trout farm for fresh fish.

Scale the Fire Tower

This historic symbol of Sopron, right on the main square, offers an unparalleled panorama of the city and its surroundings way into the distance.

Discover the Zsolnay Quarter

On the site of renowned ceramics factory of the same name in Pécs, the Zsolnay Quarter offers all kinds of cultural attractions a short walk from the city centre.

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Admire Art Nouveau in Szeged

The Votive Church is not the only must-see in Szeged – a walking tour can allow you to take in the splendid Art-Nouveau architecture around the city centre.

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B A L A TI N O TNR &O DAURCOTUI N ON D

Combine fine wine with great gastronomy

Sip Hungary’s most famous wine

Make a splash Europe’s largest spa complex at Hajdúszoboszló near Debrecen comprises open-air baths with 13 pools for all ages, an aqua park and palace, and the original yearround spa.

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Tokaj is synonymous with its divine sweet wine, best sampled in-situ at one of the many cellars in this historic town or surrounding vineyards.

Take a tour of Hortobágy

Most known for its rubyred wine, Eger now also offers great gastronomic destinations to round out the whole experience – downtown Trifla is just one fine example.

This unique national park offers various tours – by boat, by bike, sunset safaris – with natural attractions ranging from rare horses to abundant birdlife and stargazing.

Visit Hungary’s Versailles

Just outside Sopron, the sumptuous Rococo Esterházy Palace in Fertőd is where Haydn lived and composed for many years, working with his own orchestra.

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SOPRON & AROUND

ARRIVAL • By car From Budapest, Sopron is 2.5hrs

away, taking the M1 motorway towards Győr, reaching the city 45mins after Csorna.

• By train From Budapest Keleti, direct InterCity trains leave every 2hrs, journey time 2.5hrs. Sopron station is a 5min walk from the city centre.

Despite the lack of this year’s VOLT Festival, Sopron and its surroundings offer plenty of attractions. The City of Loyalty has gastronomic qualities all too rare among its provincial counterparts – also factoring in Kékfrankos wine – with nearby Lake Fertő worth further investigation. For those needing a little cultural input, Sopron’s museums and sights left over from the Roman era and Middle Ages are to be recommended.

ATTRACTIONS With its landmarks conveniently enclosed on and around focal Fő tér, Sopron can be explored in a day, with the historic and outdoor attractions around Lake Fertő easily justifying a weekend away.

INFORMATION • facebook.com/mindenamisopron • sopron.hu • turizmus.sopron.hu

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SOPRON & AROUND

SOPRON & AROUND

FERTŐRÁKOS QUARRY AND CAVE THEATRE

LAKE FERTŐ

SOPRON CITY CENTRE

FERTŐD – ESTERHÁZY PALACE

NAGYCENK – SZÉCHENYI MANSION

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SOPRON & AROUND

SOPRON & AROUND

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SOPRON & SURROUNDINGS IN 3 DAYS

FRIDAY It is worth coming to Sopron for the afternoon stroll alone, taking in the historic sights of the city centre. Start your walk on Várfal sétány, then from the main square, head for the Fire Tower and the museums. For sweet reward afterwards, drop in at the Dömötöri confectionery.

For dinner, there’s Erhardt, where you can sample the house wine, Kékfrankos, alongside a bowl of signature Sopron bean stew.

SATURDAY Start the day with a hearty breakfast at Kultúrpresszó.

Next stop – Lake Fertő, directly linked by Balfi út from town, and served by ferry once you get there.

Stop for a fill up at the renowned Ráspi restaurant in Fertőrákos.

At the end of the day, you can reward your sporting endeavours with pork knuckle at the Puskás pub and, agenda willing, some live sounds at Búgócsiga.

SUNDAY The last day is ideal for viewing the last remnants of ancient Sopron, the only intact main square still in existence from the Roman province of Pannonia, the Forum Scarbantiae. Have lunch at the Deák Restaurant, then walk up to the Lövérek: the panorama from the Károly Lookout Tower is magnificent.

At the Harrer Chocolate Workshop, you can indulge in sweet temptations to set yourself up for the journey home.

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SOPRON & AROUND

SOPRON & AROUND

5 MUST-SEE SIGHTS IN THE CENTRE OF SOPRON

FŐ TÉR You don’t have to wander far to see the key sights of Sopron: the Museum Quarter with its Storno and Fabricius houses, Goat Church and the Fire Tower, can all be found by this main square.

FIRE TOWER The cylindrical, lower trunk of the tower was built on Roman remains 600 years ago. Soldiers signalled from here that strangers had brought wine into the city. Fő tér 8. tuztorony.sopron.hu VÁRKERÜLET The Castle District follows the old city wall, a boulevard whose cafés and restaurants have helped it regain its Belle-Époque function of providing a pleasant walk for locals.

OLD AND NEW SYNAGOGUES One of the city’s oldest thoroughfares, Új utca (‘New Street’) is home to two medieval synagogues.

The later one was built around 1370 as a private house of worship for a Viennese banker. Új utca 22. sopronimuzeum.hu

Fire Tower

Poncichter Quarter

PONCICHTER QUARTER Here still reside members of the Poncichter family, whose German ancestors planted beans in rows in their vineyards, hence their original name of Bohnenzüchter. Sopron can thank them for their distinct bean dishes and wine. Balfi utca/Gazda utca

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Forum Scarbantiae

SOPRON & AROUND

Mining Museum

SOPRON & AROUND

FORUM SCARBANTIAE The ruins of ancient Sopron lie 4.5 metres beneath the city centre, the city wall was built over them in the 1300s.

Dating back 2,000 years, the former main square is now at modernday cellar level. Új utca 1

5 MARVELLOUS MUSEUMS THAT SHED LIGHT ON SOPRON’S HISTORY

FABRICIUS HOUSE – ROMAN-ERA LAPIDARIUM Stone relics from Roman Scarbantia, statues and tombs, and an archaeological display, await in the Gothic and Baroque cellars. The upper levels are recreated as 17th- and 18th-century homes. Fő tér 6. sopronimuzeum.hu MINING MUSEUM You can search through thousands of works of art, historical photos and maps in the museum storerooms. The Adventure Mine is where children can travel along in a mining cart, taking a trip down wearing a miner’s helmet. Templom utca 2. kbm.hu 30

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Macskakő Children’s Museum

STORNO COLLECTION In one of the most beautiful buildings in Sopron, the first floor displays local history. Above is where you find the collection of Ferenc Storno, who made the climb from chimney sweep to art restorer and buyer. Fő tér 8. sopronimuzeum.hu

MACSKAKŐ CHILDREN’S MUSEUM This exhibition space has filled the 17th-century Eggenberg House with new life in the city centre.

Nursery and primary schoolchildren can discover the world and treasures of bygone ages in their own ways. Szent György utca 12. sopronimuzeum.hu

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SOPRON & AROUND

Esterházy Palace Fertőd

SOPRON & AROUND

PAN-EUROPEAN PICNIC MEMORIAL No other spot around Sopron better portrays the reality of the Austrian border, where East and West once met. This memorial between Sopronpuszta and St Margarethen marks the seminal events here in 1989.

ESTERHÁZY PALACE EISENSTADT For 300 years, this was the seat of the illustrious Esterházy dynasty – Haydn also lived and ran an orchestra here for 30 years. Today, they lay on a full programme of classical-music concerts and summer festivals. Eisenstadt, Esterhazyplatz 5. esterhazy.at PÜSPÖKI PALOTA FERTŐRÁKOS In this Baroque palace, only visible from the outside, the bishops of Győr once had their summer residence. Legend had it that they could escape through a 700-metre tunnel into the nearby forest. Fertőrákos, Fő utca 153. facebook.com/ fertorakospuspokipalota

7 EXCITING ATTRACTIONS TO DISCOVER OUTSIDE SOPRON

ESTERHÁZY PALACE FERTŐD Considered the Hungarian Versailles, this 126-room Rococo palace was where Haydn and his musicians were cooped up for years. Concerts and cultural events feature today.

Fertőd-Eszterháza, Joseph Haydn utca 2. eszterhaza.hu

Esterházy Palace Fertőd

FERTŐRÁKOS QUARRY AND CAVE THEATRE Great sharks, whales and dolphins stare out from carvings in the rock wall of the Fertőrákos quarry, bringing the Miocene Age to life. Evening performances here provide an unparalleled experience – bring warm clothes. Fertőrákos, Fő utca 1. fertorakosikofejto.hu

HEGYKŐ This small village has famous thermal baths. You’ll find lace and old artefacts from Hövej on display at the local judge’s house – nearby, a pálinka brandy distillery gives tastings and presentations.

On the outskirts, traces remain of the former Iron Curtain.

SZÉCHENYI PALACE NAGYCENK Living on this estate from the 1820s, ‘the Greatest Hungarian’, István Széchenyi of Chain Bridge fame, set up a model economy. Today, the palace is his best-known memorial near Sopron. Nagycenk, Kiscenki út 3. facebook.com/ nagycenk.szechenyikastely 32

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FROM ROMAN BATHS TO SUPERMARKET SHELVES Think of Balfi water and what first springs to mind are those familiar green-labelled bottles lining the shelves of supermarkets – although images of the charming village of Balf on the shores of Lake Fertő do not end there. According to archaeological finds, the Romans already knew about and used the sulphur waters of the springs around Balf in the second century. Taking advantage of the beneficial effects of these medicinal waters, Balf also has spa baths, a medical hospital and a castle hotel – you can even find a drinking fountain, free for all to use at the end of the main street in the village towards Fertőrákos.

The waters of these alkaline, slightly carbonated, lithium medicinal springs can be used as a drinking cure, and the waters of the spa with its high content of hydrogen sulphide provide a solution for the treatment and rehabilitation of people with musculoskeletal disorders.

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Deák Restaurant

SOPRON & AROUND

Erhardt Restaurant

SOPRON & AROUND

PAPA JOE’S SALOON & STEAKHOUSE Steaks from chicken to lamb, veal and beef – a house favourite – are sizzled over wooden embers here. In tune with the Western theme are the 100-plus varieties of whiskey to choose from. Várkerület 108. papajoe.hu

5 OUTSTANDING RESTAURANTS TO CHOOSE FROM IN SOPRON

ERHARDT RESTAURANT In the former rich quarter, this terrace restaurant serves crispy duck breast with cvekedli cabbage pasta.

Under a walnut tree, with a glass of wine in hand, it’s unforgettable.

Balfi út 10. erhardts.hu

Erhardt Restaurant

DEÁK RESTAURANT Built as a restaurant in 1891, Deák has been a dance school and an Italian café in its previous incarnations.

Today, quality burgers, plus classic and vegan dishes, feature.

Erzsébet utca 20. facebook.com/deaksopron

PUSKÁS RESTAURANT & PUB If you’re ravenous, don’t miss the crispy Bavarian pork knuckle with Sopron beer on a terrace in the Castle District. Opened by the Puskás family in 1986, the restaurant is now operated by the second generation.

Várkerület 83. puskasrestaurant.hu

VADÁSZKÜRT RESTAURANT A homely cuisine with select ingredients provides the culinary foundations here. The beancabbage fish soup from Sopron and the deer stew from Dalos-hegy are among the favourites. Udvarnoki utca 6. vadaszkurt.hu 36

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EGER, MISKOLC, THE MÁTRA & THE BÜKK

ARRIVAL • By car: Take the M3 motorway to Miskolc,

then for Eger turn off for Tiszafüred/ Füzesabony, allowing an overall 1hr 40mins from Budapest. Staying on the M3 for Miskolc, allow an overall 2hrs.

• By train: From Budapest Keleti, direct trains run every 2hrs for Eger, journey time 1hr 50mins, and every hour for Miskolc, journey time 2hrs. Each town’s station is a 15min walk from the centre or 5-10mins by bus and tram respectively.

Swathed in heroic history, the wine hub of Eger is brimming with Turkish monuments, thermal baths and Baroque grandeur. Beyond beckon the surrounding slopes and hiking trails of the Mátra and the Bükk uplands.

An hour’s drive east lies lively Miskolc, its bar scene worth investigation.

ATTRACTIONS For Eger, you should allow at least one day to explore the historic centre and the wine cellars of Szépasszony-völgy – throw in the accessible slopes of the Mátra and the Bükk and you’ve got a great long weekend ahead of you.

INFORMATION • facebook.com/bukknemzetipark • hellomiskolc.hu • visiteger.com

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EGER, MISKOLC, THE MÁTRA & THE BÜKK

EGER, MISKOLC, THE MÁTRA & THE BÜKK

DIÓSGYÖR CASTLE

SZARVASKŐ CASTLE

GALYATETŐ EGER CASTLE

KÉKESTETŐ

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EGER MINARET

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EGER, MISKOLC, THE MÁTRA & THE BÜKK

EGER, MISKOLC, THE MÁTRA & THE BÜKK

Discover

EGER & SURROUNDINGS IN 3 DAYS

FRIDAY Friday is ideal for scoping out downtown Eger – by the time you get round to everything, it will be past afternoon. For lunch, the Macok restaurant is one of the best in Hungary.

For the evening, visit the renovated, cellar-lined Valley of the Beautiful Woman, preferably keeping to the right-hand side, with its Mediterranean-style wine hub.

SATURDAY If it’s Saturday, you can either hike on the eastern side of the Mátra or on the western side of the Bükk. If you choose the Mátra, Sirok Castle, Recsk Labor Camp and Feldebrő Lower Church are the must-sees. If you stick with the Bükk, you can relax in the thermal waters under the salt hills of Egerszalók.

SUNDAY Take the winding paths around the Bükk towards Miskolc and familiarise yourself with the gastronomy of this gentrifying city.

Wander around the main slopes of Avas, find a terrace on the banks of the Szinva, then admire the famous iconostasis of the Orthodox Church and the medieval castle at Diósgyőr.

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Szépasszony-völgy

EGER, MISKOLC, THE MÁTRA & THE BÜKK

Dobó tér

EGER, MISKOLC, THE MÁTRA & THE BÜKK

SZÉPASSZONY-VÖLGY ‘The Valley of the Beautiful Woman’ is a true bohemian wine district with notable cellars and terraces. After several developments in recent years, today you can discover the latest wine and gastronomic trends here. Szépasszony-völgy. egribornegyed.hu

5 UNMISSABLE SIGHTS TO ADMIRE IN EGER

MINARET A former Ottoman crescent has been converted into a cross atop this 40-metre-high tower where the muezzin once called.

Climb the 97 steep steps for the best views over the historic centre.

Knézich Károly utca 4. minareteger.hu

Eger Basilica

EGER CASTLE An authentic medieval atmosphere welcomes you between intact and rebuilt walls, where you can sense the lives of historic heroes and compare the Stars of Eger film with reality.

Vár 1. egrivar.hu

DOBÓ TÉR This renovated main square is a bustling meeting place in the heart of the city. You can admire the Baroque Minorite Church, its façade a real architectural curiosity. At the adjacent modern square of Végvári vitézek tere, dangle your feet in the waters of the cool stream.

EGER BASILICA This is the second largest religious structure in Hungary, a ten-storey block would fit under its huge dome.

The interior of this Classicist building is also impressive – consecrated in the early 19th century, it took another 120 years to finish.

Telekessy út 6. eger-bazilika.plebania.hu 44

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EGER, PIONEER OF AVIATION There has been a recreational airport in operation in Eger since the end of the 1950s, with a grass runway. It is no coincidence that it lies right opposite Nagy-Eged Hill, used in the 1970s by the popular rigid-winged gliders of the day, and later followed by paragliders.

The hill even has a specific feature of providing three take-off points, towards the east, south and north, in case the wind does not blow from the right direction or with sufficient strength – or too much strength for the motorless vehicles to get airborne. This is the reason you see colourful features over the city on summer days, and there probably aren’t many youngsters in Eger who can’t paraglide. As a consequence, Hungary’s only ultra-light plane factory is located here, Halley Kft, representing the Apollo brand which also operates the airport. Nearby in Verpelét is Hungary’s only ultra-light helicopter factory as well: the Hungaro Copter.

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Trifla

EGER, MISKOLC, THE MÁTRA & THE BÜKK

DEPRESSO A new-wave café on the main square with own-branded specialty products. You can enjoy French-style breakfasts on the sunny terrace and, for lunch or dinner, more daring dishes such as fattened goose liver in breadcrumbs with celery-cashew potatoes.

Eger, Dobó tér, Érsek utca 14. depresso.hu MANOOKA At this specialty café, the bagels merit sampling while gluten-free pizzas also feature during the day, along with egg-based breakfasts. A children’s corner and mum-and-baby room attract families. Eger, Bajcsy-Zsilinszky utca 17. manooka.hu BORI MAMI In Gyöngyös, this deservedly famous bistro kitchen has garnered awards from Budapest’s prestigious Gourmet Festival.

Dishes are made from local ingredients such as Angus beef with homemade noodles, and farm chicken with green-pea pearl barley.

Gyöngyös, Belváros tér 7. borimami.hu

7 GREAT GASTRONOMIC OPTIONS IN AND AROUND EGER Macok

MACOK If there’s one place to dine in Eger, it’s Macok, right by a central square. Ingredients come from the surrounding Bükk, and traditional dishes are influenced by modern gastronomy and enthusiasm. Make sure to investigate the special seasonal menu.

Eger, Tinódi Sebestyén tér 4. facebook.com/MacokBisztro

VADVIRÁG RESTAURANT If you get hungry after a hearty hike, head in here for fiercely traditional cuisine, goose-liver pâté with blackcurrant mousse, or mangalica pork served with chef’s vegetables and wild-garlic polenta. Bogács, Táncsics út 6. vadviragbogacs.hu

SENATOR-HÁZ A veteran of Eger hospitality. The menu is traditional, the kitchen implementation bold. Not many places would serve cold stew juice with baguettes. Specialties are wine cream roll and grandmother’s apple pie. Eger, Dobó tér 11. senatorhaz.hu TRIFLA The owner is a passionate truffle hunter, so you can guess what the star of the show is here. Classics are paired with Mediterranean dishes thanks to an experienced chef.

Eger, Széchenyi utca 9. triflaeger.hu 48

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Bolyki Winery

EGER, MISKOLC, THE MÁTRA & THE BÜKK

VINCZE BÉLA BORBAZILIKÁJA Unlike others cellars in Eger, this is not carved out of tuff rock but its cathedral-like interior is made of broken bricks – hence Wine Basilica. Its 800 barrels alone make it exceptional. Eger, Mester utca 2. vinczepinceszet.hu ALMAGYAR ARCHBISHOPRIC VINEYARD Furniture of bare wood, bare concrete and wherever you look, vines. There is only one such landscape where you can sip natural wines, even in the pool of the estate – and that’s here. Hilltop towards Noszvaj. almagyar.hu THUMMERER WINERY The cellar system, hand-carved into tuff rock, also contains ovens to complement the wine tastings. Tours cover 4,000 square metres, the samplings are on-site or wine dinners can be arranged, the dates and details to be agreed in advance.

Noszvaj, Szomolyai út. thummerer.hu CSENDÜLŐ At this ‘Place of Spiritual Therapy’, fine wine and coffee both feature, backdropped by a green lawn, blue window frames, natural stone and a raw wood veneer, with an outdoor stage for jazz concerts. Noszvaj, Deák Ferenc út 46. csendulo.hu

KEDVES WINE BISTRO The surest sign of the modern rebirth of the Valley of the Beautiful Woman is that top winery St Andrea is here.

This modern, trendy cellar bistro is a great place to chill, its terrace ideal for sunbathing. Eger, Szépasszony-völgy, cellar 38. standrea.com FÚZIÓ WINE BAR Metal-lined walls hide a sommelier’s kitchen, an interactive Bull’s Blood Museum and a cellar open to all where even superior wines can be tasted as others mature. There’s an on-site shop, too. Eger, Csiky Sándor utca 10. galtibor.hu

Almagyar Archbishopric Vineyard

7 SUPER SAMPLING SPOTS FOR FINE WINES IN AND AROUND EGER

BOLYKI WINERY Cellars and tunnels cut into huge limestone rocks, the famous walnut tree at the entrance, a lavish valley and a hipster atmosphere... You can pick up excellent items and light snacks but must register in advance for wine tastings and cellar visits.

Eger, Bolyki-völgy. bolykipinceszet.hu 50

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lake Hámori

EGER, MISKOLC, THE MÁTRA & THE BÜKK

Lillafüred

EGER, MISKOLC, THE MÁTRA & THE BÜKK

FELDEBRŐ LOWER CHURCH This mystical memento of early Christianity is located underground. Ancient frescoes depict a style derived from an era when it was not yet decided whether Hungary would become a Byzantine or Catholic nation. feldebro.hu

5 FASCINATING ATTRACTIONS IN THE REGION

SIROK CASTLE The approach to the most notable romantic castle ruins of the Mátra is a small tour in itself. From the former volcanic peak, you peer over the surrounding volcanic rock formations. gyongyos-matra.hu

Sirok Castle

LILLAFÜRED This hilly getaway offers many reasons to visit: hiking, gazing at the pretty Palota Hotel, boating on Lake Hámori, riding on the narrow-gauge rail and the chairlift, and devouring smoked trout. lillafured.hu

RECSK LABOUR CAMP The Hungarian gulag was built by the bare hands of citizens as part of their ‘reeducation’. György Faludy memorised his poems here for posterity without the means to record them otherwise. Today, the camp has been rebuilt for tourist visits. recsk.hu

CSERÉPFALU CAVE DWELLINGS In the village of Bükkalja, dwellings were carved out of tuff rock, traces of furniture and stoves still visible.

The community here existed until 1975 as Little America, referring to those too poor to emigrate. cserepfalu.hu 52

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5 UNMISSABLE ATTRACTIONS IN MISKOLC

Diósgyőr Castle

EGER, MISKOLC, THE MÁTRA & THE BÜKK

AVAS CHURCH AND CEMETERY A steep hill lined with wine cellars, a Gothic church and a cemetery all close to each other – and the city centre – is unique to Miskolc. Graves include poet Bertalan Szemere and revered comedian Kálmán Latabár. Papszer utca 14. reformatusavas.shp.hu AVAS LOOKOUT TOWER This TV tower atop cellar-lined Avas hill is a local icon. Sadly the panoramic disco is no longer in operation but you can order a drink in the modern café and gaze over Miskolc through the windows. Mendikás dűlő 1. facebook.com/Avasikilato DIÓSGYŐR CASTLE Lajos the Great built this mighty Gothic stronghold in the 1300s, styled on castles in Italy and southern France.

The Knight’s Hall was the largest in Central Europe. Later it was given to successive queens as a dowry. Vár utca 24. diosgyorivar.hu THEATRE HISTORY MUSEUM Standing on the site of Hungary’s first stone theatre, just behind the current Miskolc National, this museum honours the memories of Róza Széppataki Déryné, Blaha Lujza and the Latabár dynasty, among many others. Déryné utca 3. hermuz.hu ORTHODOX CHURCH ICONOSTASIS The city’s hidden treasure is this 16-metre iconostasis, made up of 93 icons, the largest of its kind in Central Europe and a masterwork of the Hungarian Orthodox Church.

Approach the little entrance from the square. Deák tér 7. miskolc. orthodoxia.org

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Pizza, Kávé, Világbéke

EGER, MISKOLC, THE MÁTRA & THE BÜKK

A LEVES Pak choi pork one day, Hungarian egg-filled meatballs with onion-and-potatoes the next – it’s real world cuisine here. Of the regular five soups to choose from, don’t miss the Vietnamese pho.

Déryné utca 4. aleves.hu A HÁZ This new-wave coffee manufactory sits alongside historic Diósgyőr Castle. Light and dark roast specialty coffee, handpicked on-site, features alongside homemade cakes, best partaken on the wonderful terrace. Bartók Béla út 19. ahaz.eu DŰLŐ Balanced between bistro cuisine and fine dining, Dűlő is the pride of Miskolc, bravely pairing locally sourced meats with traditional side dishes, noodles, red cabbage and celery purée.

Görgey út 10. dulo.hu DESSZERTEM This confectionery counter showcases reinvented Hungarian cakes, but their main profile is the world of French desserts. Mostly, it’s a variety of lightweight, airily textured mousses.

Széchenyi István út 21-23. desszertem.hu

PIZZA, KÁVÉ, VILÁGBÉKE Airy and crispy Roman-style pizzas, the dough fermented for two days, are baked at ‘Pizza, Coffee and World Peace’. The toppings are seasonal with fresh vegetables, bacon, gorgonzola cheese, figs, walnuts, even honey. Széchenyi István út 19. facebook.com/pizzakavevilagbeke

Desszertem

7 DELICIOUS DINING DESTINATIONS IN MISKOLC

VÉGÁLLOMÁS This pioneer of the city’s gastro revolution by the narrow-gauge rail offers fish, game, mushrooms and jams with inventive Hungarian regional culinary names. It’s worth having a chat with the two owners. Dorottya utca 1. vegallomasetterem.hu ANYÁM TYÚKJA This is a charming little restaurant in a doorway, where Marika and her husband cook from whatever comes in fresh from local producers that day. While running this room-kitchen, they chat to guests. Széchenyi István út 59-61. facebook.com/ gasztrotarsulas 56

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EGER, MISKOLC, THE MÁTRA & THE BÜKK

5 ADVENTUROUS HIKES AROUND THE MÁTRA ILONA VALLEY WATERFALL A nature trail runs by the Ilona stream to the three highest waterfalls in Hungary. Start out from Parádfürdő, Károly Castle and an oak tree ten metres thick named after the Hungarian leader Rákóczi. bnpi.hu

MÁTRA’S SOUTHERN PEAKS Leaving Mátrafüred for the peak of Muzsla, head for the Hanák Kolos Lookout Tower and admire the view from the Kozmáry Tower. You can test your strength at the nearby adrenaline park. gyongyos-matra.hu WESTERN MÁTRA In Mátraszentimre, a narrow path leads you along the Mátra-bérc to the Red Stone. The end point is steep Ágasvár, where a tourist lodging awaits. Head back down along Csörgő Creek valley. matraberc.hu

Galya Lookout Tower

GALYA LOOKOUT TOWER For this modern tourist facility and the lookout tower cast in concrete and iron atop Peter’s Hill, the climb up is worth it. But an easy hike then takes you to the largest astronomical telescope in Hungary, at Piszkéstető. galyacentrum.hu; galyakilato.hu; konkoly.hu

KÉKES You can hike up Hungary’s highest peak from Mátraháza along the blue trail, but other settlements can also be reached from the top. There are several routes around it, before admiring the amazing panorama from the TV tower. kekesteto.hu

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Szalajka Valley

EGER, MISKOLC, THE MÁTRA & THE BÜKK

Szalajka Valley

EGER, MISKOLC, THE MÁTRA & THE BÜKK

SZILVÁSVÁRAD In the Szalajka Valley, to escape the crowds, head higher up for Istállóskő Cave, for the military graves from World War II towards Bélapátfalva, before you reach the Abbey Church. szilvasvarad.hu

5 ADVENTUROUS HIKES AROUND THE BÜKK

FROM PREHISTORIC TIMES TO THE 20TH CENTURY Starting from Cserépfalu on the old trade route, in the Hór stream valley, gaze into Suba hollow, where Neanderthal man once lived. Climb up to Ódorvár ruins then, on the way back, peek into more cave dwellings. bnpi.hu

Great Plateau

BÜKK HEIGHTS Starting the tour at Bánkút, you cut through the Bükk plateau, observing the karst landscape at Nagyrét. After a rest on Zsidó meadow, you head back for Bánkút at the Italian Gate for sheeps’ cheese dumplings at the Fehér Sas. bnpi.hu

CYCLE TOUR ALONG THE GREAT PLATEAU From Lillafüred, turn up the road and into Lusta Valley, from where a long, gentle road leads to the Great Plateau. Crossing Nagyrét, you reach Bánkút and, after the TV tower, you find Ómassa on the slope. bnpi.hu

LONG TOUR AROUND HUGE STONES Following the starting point and route of the blue trail, you can walk around rocks named Háromkő, Tar-kő, Sima-kő, Vörös-kő, Cserepes-kő, Pes-kő, Őr-kő, Bél-kő and Istállós-kő. bnpi.hu 60

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TOKAJ & AROUND

ARRIVAL

World-famous Tokaj is Hungary’s most prominent wine region – its sweet dessert wine once graced the tables of the Tsars.

The town, where the river Tisza meets the Bodrog, is small and cosy, surrounded by the uplands of Zemplén and the wildlife of the Upper Tisza. All is best explored by bike.

• By car: From Budapest, take the M3

motorway towards Miskolc. From there, it’s 30 minutes to Mád, Tarcal or Tokaj.

• By train: Services run from Budapest Keleti to Tokaj every 2hrs, changing at Szerencs, overall journey time 3hrs.

Tokaj station is a 10-15min walk from the modest centre.

ATTRACTIONS To visit Tokaj and a couple of wine cellars, one day should be enough, but if you have more time, explore the castles and natural attractions of Zemplén or visit the zoo in Nyíregyháza.

INFORMATION • mad.info.hu • tokaj-turizmus.hu • tokajwineregion.com

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TOKAJ & AROUND

TOKAJ & AROUND

SÁROSPATAK CASTLE

BOLDOGKŐVÁRALJA CASTLE

MÁD SYNAGOGUE

NYÍREGYHÁZA ZOO

TARCAL JESUS CHRIST STATUE

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TOKAJ & AROUND

TOKAJ & AROUND

Discover

TOKAJ & SURROUNDINGS IN 3 DAYS

FRIDAY Start your visit with a stroll through the historic Baroque streets of Tokaj, before lunch at the LaBor Bistro on Fő tér. For quality coffee afterwards, pop into the Tokaji Kávépörkölő Manufaktúra – for wine, try the terrace of the Hímesudvar. For dinner, there’s the justifiably renowned Anyukám Mondta over in Encs.

SATURDAY After breakfast, take a hike to the heights of Szent Tamás in Mád, and its panorama of the unique volcanic terroir of Zemplén.

For lunch, you might opt for the First Mád Wine House, where you can sample excellent local examples.

Then cycle over to Disznókő to admire one of the most beautiful vineyards in the wine region. Dinner follows at the Sárga Wine House.

SUNDAY You can start the day with a walk around Erdőbénye, climbing Mulató Hill. For a lazy lunch afterwards, visit A Boros in the centre of Sárospatak. Sárospatak Castle is a must-see, but the imposing library of the Reformed College on the banks of the Bodrog is also worth the trek. Before setting off, take in the Megyer Hill tarn or wine cellars at Hercegkút.

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Hercegkút Cellars

TOKAJ & AROUND

RÁKÓCZI CELLAR Several members of this noble family owned the city of Tokaj in the 17th century, but its history dates back before the Rákóczi dynasty – János Szapolyai was proclaimed king within these walls in the 1500s. Today, it houses the Tokaj Hétszőlő Visitor Centre.

Tokaj, Kossuth tér 15. tokajhetszolo.com MÁD RABBI’S HOUSE AND SYNAGOGUE Mád is the start and end point of the Wonderful Rabbis pilgrimage route. This former residence of the most learned rabbis is both a lodging and a house of knowledge: its unique rabbinical room contains some 500 books related to Jewish religious life. Mád, Rákóczi út 75. csodarabbikutja.hu

5 FASCINATING DESTINATIONS THAT DELINEATE TOKAJ HISTORY TOKAJ WORLD HERITAGE WINE MUSEUM Here you can learn all about the world-famous wine, its production and traditions, with the help of digital technology – you don’t have to leave the building to roam the area. More traditional exhibitions offer a presentation of the region’s past. Tokaj, Serház utca 55. bormuzeum.eu

Mád Rabbi’s House and Synagogue

LAJOS KOSSUTH’S BIRTHPLACE Tokaj-Hegyalja is the cradle of Hungary’s Reform Age of the 1800s, its revolutionary spirit and principles. Its key figure was born here – you can get to know the Lajos Kossuth not found in history books. Monok, Kossuth Lajos utca 18

HERCEGKÚT CELLARS Part of the World Heritage site and beautiful surviving examples of Swabian heritage architecture, the Gomboshegy and Kőporosi cellars are located in Hercegkút. Their hobbit-like, tentroofed, multi-level cellars can be found at both ends of the village.

Kőporosi pincesor: Petőfi Sándor utca 52/Gomboshegyi pincesor: Hercegkút 37 68

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TOKAJ & AROUND

TOKAJ & AROUND

5 DRAMATIC CASTLES WORTH SEEKING OUT AROUND TOKAJ SÁROSPATAK CASTLE A base for the Rákóczi rebellion of the 1700s, this castle has undergone quite a few alterations since, but it is worth admiring the monumental walls of the Red Tower, the loggias and the colonnades of the inner courtyard. Sárospatak, Szent Erzsébet utca 19. rakoczimuzeum.hu

SZERENCS CASTLE Until the death in 1608 of Zsigmond Rákóczi, late-Renaissance Szerencs Castle was the stately base of this noble Transylvanian dynasty. A hotel operates here, set in parkland.

Szerencs, Huszárvár utca 1. szerencsivar.hu BOLDOGKŐ CASTLE Built after the Tartar invasion, this castle was the most significant in the Hernád Valley. Today, it’s the best one for family visits. Boldogkőváralja. boldogkovara.hu

FÜZÉR CASTLE Since its renovation, this spectacular, snow-white castle catches the eye from all directions. True, as a ruined fortress on a cliff, this was one of Hungary’s most beautiful. Füzér, Várhegy. fuzervar.hu

Regéc Castle

REGÉC CASTLE Here Rákóczi I, father of the famous leader, studied languages and history here before the castle became a supply base for the anti-Habsburg Kuruc army. Cars can only go so far – you then walk to the ruins through pleasant woods. Regéc. regecivar.hu

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THE MIRACLE OF MÁRIAPÓCS In 1696, it was written that worshippers in Máriapócs, a small village in northern Hungary, had become aware during the liturgy in their local wooden church that tears were flowing abundantly from both eyes of the image of the Virgin Mary. The shock was tremendous, the miracle lasted 18 days, its fame even reaching the Habsburg Court. King Leopold I duly appropriated the icon of the Mother of God for himself. Kept in Vienna ever since, it has not shed a single tear. Back in Máriapócs, copies later installed tell a different story.

The Virgin Mary has cried three more times, twice in 1715 and most recently in December 1905, proving that these magical powers cannot be attached to the icon alone. The Virgin Mary of Pócs has since been attributed with healing powers, making it the largest place of pilgrimage in Hungary for Greek Catholics, who journey here from abroad. In 1991, it welcomed another visitor: Pope John Paul II.

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Sárga Borház Étterem

TOKAJ & AROUND

Anyukám Mondta

TOKAJ & AROUND

SÁRGA BORHÁZ ÉTTEREM This wine house and surroundings are a hub of everyday life in the region. Here in one place are a communal stage, the Disznókő winery and a traditional restaurant, well worth a visit. Tarcal, Disznókő-dűlő, by Road 37. sargaborhaz.hu

5 SPECIAL RESTAURANTS WORTH INVESTIGATING IN THE WINE REGION A Boros

ANYUKÁM MONDTA Run by two enthusiastic professionals who trained in Italy, ‘My Mother Said’ is a real favourite restaurant in provincial Hungary, so make sure to book a table. Perfect pizzas, great pasta and outstanding wines. Encs, Petőfi utca 57. anyukammondta.hu

A BOROS To relax while exploring the heritage sights of the Rákóczi era, head to A Boros. Within its cool walls, you can sip a glass of local wine, choosing from the short menu if hunger strikes. Sárospatak, Rákóczi utca 21. aboros.hu

LABOR BISTRO In the capital of the wine region, this cosy spot is elegant and relaxed. Dishes are nicely presented, winemakers pass by, and there are lodgings if needed. Tokaj, Bethlen Gábor utca 1. laborbistro.hu ELSŐ MÁDI WINE HOUSE This is not only a restaurant, but a café, deli and winery. With a lively atmosphere and a reliable kitchen, it showcases an impressive selection of Mád wines. Mád, Hunyadi János utca 2. elsomadiborhaz.hu 74

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Henye Cellar

TOKAJ & AROUND

Henye Cellar

TOKAJ & AROUND

KVASZINGER The Kvaszinger family has been growing grapes for several generations, their cellars located in a beautiful part of Bodrog. It’s a youthful winery with a waterfront feel and fine wines.

Olaszliszka, Burgundia út 6. kvaszinger.hu HENYE CELLAR The winery specialises in champagne but also functions as an event venue, so do check for any weddings if you’re planning to visit on a Saturday. From its terrace, you can admire the vineyards of Tokaj-Hegyalja and Tokaj Hill. Bodrogkeresztúr, Henye-dűlő. dereszla.com

BARTA PINCE The stepped Király vineyards in Mád were cultivated from the 1200s, with grapes of rare quality but not quantity.

Revived by the Barta family, they produce superb dry Furmints.

Mád, Rákóczi utca 83. bartapince.com HÍMESUDVAR A reliable destination in the wine region, Péter Várhelyi’s winery provides a shaded terrace for tranquil relaxation over a glass. Tokaj, Bem út 2. himesudvar.hu

Hímesudvar

5 WONDERFUL WINERIES FOR ALFRESCO SIPPING

KIKELET ÍZMŰHELY French in origin, Stéphanie Berecz produces wines worth the trip to Tarcal alone, but with its cosy treeshaded terrace, you should definitely head here for a glass.

Tarcal, Könyves Kálmán utca 62. tarcal.hu/berecz-stephanie 76

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Sóstó Zoo

TOKAJ & AROUND

3 FANTASTIC FAMILY DAYS OUT AROUND UPPER TISZA TISZA WATER TOURS Enjoy attractive views of the Tisza by taking a tour on the water, a world away from civilisation. Beginners might want to try the day tour, while more advanced kayakers can opt for a week-long trip. vizitura.com SÓSTÓ ZOO Walk around the world in a day at this huge zoo near Nyíregyháza, from the bottom of the ocean to the very heights of the Andes, and the deepest tropical rain forest, along with taking in a seal show and a savannah tour of Africa. Nyíregyháza-Sóstófürdő, Sóstói út sostozoo.hu SÓSTÓ PARKFÜRDŐ AND AQUARIUS BATHS The most famous spa and lido in the area are at Sóstó. You can take a walk around the lake, exercise on the running track and kids can slide into the water.

Several restaurants line the shore. Nyíregyháza-Sóstógyógyfürdő, Fürdőház tér 2. sostort.hu 78

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DEBRECEN & AROUND

ARRIVAL • By plane: Debrecen Airport, 5km south of town,

serves Wizz Air flights from London Luton. A DKV bus links with Debrecen station.

• By car: From Budapest, head for Miskolc on the M3, turning off shortly before Debrecen onto Main Road 33. Allow an overall 2hrs 30mins.

• By train: Trains set off from Budapest Nyugati for Debrecen every hour, journey time 2hrs 30mins. The station is a 15min walk from the centre or three tram stops.

Hungary’s second city is a mix of tradition and modernity, a former market town with a sparkling intellectual and literary heritage. Proximity to Hajdúszoboszló, the Hortobágy National Park and Lake Tisza makes the city and its surroundings an excellent choice for a long summer weekend.

ATTRACTIONS With the MODEM contemporary arts museum and green recreation zone at Nagyerdő, one day isn’t quite enough for Debrecen. Factor in a soak at the Aquaticum spa, and trips to Hortobágy and Lake Tisza, and you have a great long weekend.

INFORMATION • debrecen.hu/en • exploredebrecen.com • hnp.hu/en

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DEBRECEN & AROUND

HORTOBÁGY

MODEM

NAGYERDŐ PARK

LAKE TISZA

HORTOBÁGY WILDLIFE PARK

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DEBRECEN & AROUND

Discover

DEBRECEN & SURROUNDINGS IN 3 DAYS

FRIDAY Spend the day exploring the city centre starting from the balcony of the Great Church where the view is amazing. Stroll along and find a terrace spot on downtown Piac utca, extremely wide because of cattle runs in the past. For a snack on the way, try the famous Debrecener sausage and for dinner, sit down to the tasting menu at the Ikon.

SATURDAY Head out to nearby Pallag for a fine breakfast at Spájz, ideally by bike, through the woods.

Dander back to the university and its surroundings, or hop on tram 1, which stops at all the major points in town.

SUNDAY Opting not to take the motorway straight back to Budapest because this allows you to explore the Hortobágy National Park, you can make a short stop at Lake Tisza to nip into the EcoCentre. With a little more time, take a boat tour around the pretty waters and try the zander at Stég or fish sausage at HellóHal.

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Debrecen University

DEBRECEN & AROUND

Great Church

DEBRECEN & AROUND

DEBRECEN UNIVERSITY For all their Neo-Baroque grandeur, the imposing edifices of Debrecen University date back less than a century. Tradition dictates that graduating students have to leap into the fountain of the French Park. Egyetem tér 1. unideb.hu

GREAT CHURCH Debrecen’s most emblematic building provides a fabulous panorama of the city – after a hearty climb up the tower or ascending by lift. You can also see one of the largest bells in Hungary. Kossuth tér 1. nagytemplom.hu

Orthodox Synagogue

5 MAIN ATTRACTIONS NOT TO MISS IN DEBRECEN

MODEM In terms of function, you could describe MODEM as the Magyar Guggenheim, a prestigious artistic institution holding the most important collection of modern Hungarian art in the country, with a bold agenda of exhibitions. Baltazár Dezső tér. modemart.hu

REFORMED COLLEGE Founded in 1538, alma mater of literary figures such as Mihály Csokonai, Endre Ady and Magda Szabó, the Reformed College hosted Hungary’s national assembly in 1849 and December 1944 while conflict raged nearby. Kálvin tér 16. museum.drk.hu ORTHODOX SYNAGOGUE Built in 1893, the largest synagogue in provincial Hungary has been restored and reopened. The museum contains an old ritual bath and the engraved names of 6,000 Jewish victims of the Holocaust in Debrecen. Pásti utca 4. dzsh.hu 86

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Debrecen University Botanical Garden

DEBRECEN & AROUND

Nagyerdő

DEBRECEN & AROUND

NAGYERDŐ Debrecen’s main destination for lakeside recreation near town features the Aquaticum spa, the zoo, amusement park, football stadium and Water Tower. All around is greenery, dotted with century-old trees.

5 OUTDOOR ADVENTURES HIKING OR BIKING AROUND DEBRECEN

ZELEMÉR CHURCH RUINS AND TÓCÓ SPRING This ruined church is located between Debrecen and Hajdúböszörmény, reached through an atmospheric forest 40km long with flat, off-road cycling through Alsó-Józsa. While you’re here, you can also see the source of the Tócó stream.

DEBRECEN UNIVERSITY BOTANICAL GARDEN Created in 1928 behind the main university building, this garden and nature reserve contain nearly 6,000 species, the collections of succulent plants and cacti, and palm house, particularly impressive. unideb.hu 88

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Debrecen University Botanical Garden

ERDŐSPUSZTA ARBORETUM Discover the wildlife and fauna of Erdőspuszta at this arboretum, where a lookout tower, a nature trail and a wooden playground await visitors. Fancsikai Lakes are also nearby, where you can relax and hold barbecues.

Debrecen, Fancsika tanya

PALLAG You find Pallag 5km from the Nagyerdő water tower, reached along an asphalt road, part of it running through forest.

Past the Academy of Economics, be sure to pop into the superb little artisanal bakery, Spájz. facebook.com/pallagspajz

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WHY ARE THERE NINE HOLES IN THE NINE-HOLE BRIDGE?

Two tall stories are linked to the Nine-Hole Bridge, symbol of Hortobágy and the Great Plain. According to one, the nine holes refer to the nine letters in the word ‘Hortobágy’. The other is tied to the famous Hungarian outlaw, Sándor Rózsa, who had been celebrating at an inn when the gendarmes came in, after his neck. The highwayman took off, but the Hortobágy river stood in his way – nine of his lovers then provided the support for him to reach the other side.

It is more likely, however, that Debrecen builder Ferenc Povolny was guided by more prosaic reasons when he created this Classicist-style bridge, but his blueprints are no longer with us. The ramshackle wooden bridge had to be replaced by a more durable one so that cattle traders in Debrecen could drive their herds to Szolnok and Vienna. This is not the only strange thing about the bridge: the Hortobágy river it stands above has no source and sometimes flows backwards.

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Nonna Rosa

DEBRECEN & AROUND

NONNA ROSA Sophisticated Mediterranean dishes, pizzas and pastas are prepared in the heart of Debrecen. All of these can be enjoyed on a windshielded terrace with one eye on the Great Church and another on the Tyrrhenian Sea. Piac utca 12. nonna.hu WOK TO BOX A classic Oriental street-food wok bar, roaring with flames and liberal with industrial-scale coriander, serving big helpings in a paper box, as learned by the owner and chef across Indochina through South China to Korea and Japan. Simonffy utca 1. woktobox.hu KIS PADLIZSÁN The enthusiastic owner couple is committed not only to vegan food but also to top-notch gastronomy. At last the city has been blessed with Levantine cuisine in the form of divine falafel and hummus. Simonffy utca 1C. kispadlizsan.hu PEAKY BURGERS At this Hungaro-American burger joint, iconography from the namesake TV series and Westerns suit the wooden furnishings. The burgers are homemade, the sauces too, and you can turbocharge your choice with olives and feta cheese. BajcsyZsilinszky utca 1-5. facebook.com/peakyburgers

IKON Sourcing from local farms and markets, Ikon creates in traditional yet inventive fashion. There are always stews and breaded meats, but you’ll find ramen and a mangalica fry-up, too. Piac utca 23. ikonrestaurant.hu MŰVÉSZBEJÁRÓ A lively interior, a modern kitchen and their own guinea-fowl supplier – welcome to the Artists’ Entrance. Choose from the lunchtime menu, the suggestions on the board or the main selection and you can’t go wrong. Kossuth utca 8. facebook.com/ muveszbejarodebrecen

Kis Padlizsán

7 DELICIOUS DINING DESTINATIONS IN DEBRECEN

RESKONTÓ The name is no coincidence, echoing the Zsigmond Móricz story from the early 1900s of a stolen lottery ticket – hence the fin-de-siècle décor, authentic soda bottles on the tables and the classic Hungarian menu. Péterfia utca 34. reskonto.hu 92

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KÁ D E BL IR-EMCEEDNE & N CAER ÉOSU N KÖ DRNYÉKE

DEBRECEN & AROUND

7 ACTIVE WAYS TO DISCOVER HORTOBÁGY CYCLE TOURS Around Hortobágy, you can only cycle on certain roads, such as Halastó, the Egyek-pusztakócsi marshes and Szálkahalom. As for local wildlife, consult the Hortobágy National Park website. hnp.hu HORTOBÁGY BOAT TOURS If you want to glide under the Nine Hole Bridge, visit a fish farm and learn how to use traditional fishing gear, join a tour boat. It’s Hungarian-only but the scenery will be lovely. hnp.hu

CSILLAGÖSVÉNYMUSTRA STAR TRAIL All the stars appear on the open plain. The talk detailing the planets and local celestial mythology will be in Hungarian but the wonder will be universal. hnp.hu NIGHT SOUNDS – HORTOBÁGY FISHPOND MOON WALK Fascinating by day but also at night – on the Hortobágy fishpond study trail, you can observe birds returning at sunset to settle down for the night, and other animals active after dark. hnp.hu EXCLUSIVE TOURS TO AREAS OFF-LIMITS As part of the special personalised tours offered by the Hortobágy National Park, nature lovers can access secret areas and observe protected species only otherwise seen in nature films. hnp.hu

Hortobágy

HORTOBÁGY WILDLIFE PARK SUNSET SAFARI The Wildlife Park is worth a visit in its own right, with rare species including Przewalski’s horses. You can observe them on this safari tour, sunset turning it into a special experience. hnp.hu

WALKING TOUR TO MEGGYES CSÁRDA A famous tavern along the old salt trail, this former haunt of shepherds and highwaymen feels authentic, with a smoky kitchen and a protective guard should swords be drawn. hnp.hu

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Illangó DesszertLak

DEBRECEN & AROUND

Aquapark

DEBRECEN & AROUND

ILLANGÓ DESSZERTLAK French desserts, mousses and pavlovas are complemented by light-roasted coffee. The special invention is hot chocolate made from quality Belgian ingredients. The Illangó DesszertLak is not a place to wolf down your pudding and ask for more. Major utca 26. facebook.com/illango.desszertlak

5 ESSENTIAL REASONS TO VISIT HAJDÚSZOBOSZLÓ

SHEEP AND SHEPHERDS’ COOKOUT Each year, locals gather around 200 cauldrons in which lakes of mutton stew bubble away. More a gathering than a gastronomic contest, it’s all in celebration of the traditional Hortobágy shepherd and his favourite dish of slambuc.

Airport, Böszörményi utca 52

BOCSKAI MÚZEUM Along with an interesting exhibition of local history and folk culture, there’s also a prestigious collection of fine art featuring works by Picasso and his Hungarian contemporary, Kassák. Guided tours are offered in Hungarian. Bocskai utca 12. bocskaimuzeum.hu

Aquapark

LIDO AND AQUAPARK The largest spa complex in Europe features wave pools, all kinds of bubble pools – 13 in total, the lido open until the end of September. You’ll also find foam parties, a water sports court and a climbing net. Szent István park 1-3. hungarospa.hu

NR.8. ÉTTEREM Hajdúszoboszló’s gastronomic pearl on the main promenade has a touch of class about it – try the cod with champagne or the 21-day matured Angus steak sizzled on charcoal, with sweet potatoes. Mátyás király sétány 8. nr8restaurant.hu 96

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Tisza Lakes Eco-Centre

DEBRECEN & AROUND

TISZAÖRVÉNY FISH GRILLS HellóHal looks like a standard grill but the menu offers fish sausages with pickled cucumber. Along the riverbank, the trendier Stég provides zander cheek with wok-fried vegetables to snack on. Kinizsi út 2A, hellohal.hu; Tiszaikertisor út 32, stegfood.hu FLOATING CABINS Tiszafüred has the largest number of floating homes in Hungary. More than 50 houses bob on the water, often supplemented with a boat garage. Tiszaörvény, Szabics & Kormorán jetties. kormorankikoto.hu ABÁDSZALÓK LIDO Big sandy beaches, triple giant slides and wooden walkways feature at this modernised lido, plus an octagonal cocktail bar with a fine panoramic terrace by the lake.

Abádszalók, end of Strand út. abad.hu

7 GREAT REASONS TO BE AT LAKE TISZA IN SUMMER

TISZAVIRÁG FLOODPLAIN WALKWAY A boat takes you to an uninhabited section of the river to study the short but spectacular life of the mayfly as part of a mile-long walk. A visit to an inner lake then follows, where you can paddle. Tiszafüred-Örvény, Szabics kikötő. szabicskikoto.hu

Floating cabins

TISZA LAKES ECO-CENTRE At the largest freshwater aquarium in Europe, a glass-walled tunnel allows visitors to observe the most fascinating attractions, enormous sturgeons and belugas, up close.

Poroszló, Kossuth Lajos utca 4. tiszataviokocentrum.hu

KIS-TISZA At this wildly romantic part of Lake Tisza, you find lush floodplain vegetation, nesting sand martins and winding, narrow riverbeds. It is best to canoe here, but you can also rent a motorboat with a guide.

KISKÖRE FISH STAIRCASE This ecological corridor helps fish navigate between the higher water level of Lake Tisza and the lower one of the river Tisza. Those interested can observe their movements through porthole windows. Barrier between Kisköre and Abádszalók, reached by bike. kiskore.hu 98

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SZEGED & AROUND

ARRIVAL • By car: From Budapest, Szeged is two-hour

drive down the M5 motorway. Once you’re approaching town, head north to reach the centre.

• By train: Direct trains to Szeged leave hourly from Budapest Zugló, journey time 2hrs 10mins. Szeged station is a 10min walk from town or two tram stops.

The third largest city in Hungary, Szeged bears little comparison to its provincial counterparts, basking in abundant sunshine by the dramatic sweep of the Tisza river. Art-Nouveau architecture, notable dining destinations and new-wave cafés all feature. Nearby Gyula, Makó and Ópusztaszer merit further exploration.

ATTRACTIONS After a wander around the focal square of Dom tér and nearby landmarks, followed by a riverside dinner, there’s still plenty to keep you occupied in and around Szeged for the whole weekend.

INFORMATION • facebook.com/szegedponthu • szegedtourism.hu/en • visitgyula.com/en

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SZEGED & AROUND

SZEGED & AROUND

NEW SYNAGOGUE

GYULA CASTLE

SZEGED DÓM TÉR

MAKÓ LOMKBORONA WALKWAY

MAKÓ HAGYMATIKUM

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SZEGED & AROUND

Discover

SZEGED & SURROUNDINGS IN 3 DAYS

FRIDAY In the heart of the city, admire the majestic Votive Church on Dóm tér then stroll down Kárász utca. If you’re after spicy fish soup for lunch, the Vendéglő a Régi Hídhoz is a fair choice. Afterwards, don’t miss the Church of Our Lady of the Snows in the Lower Town and the Mediterranean atmosphere of the Szia! café at the bottom, with its freshly roasted coffee.

Enjoy dinner at Kapca, sitting on the banks of the Tisza before and after.

SATURDAY Art Nouveau calls! There are quite a few treasures to discover, including the Márer House and the Iron House. The Reök Artisanal Confectionery & Café building also offers delicacies.

After sightseeing, head for the unique Hagymatikum spa in Makó and, after returning to Szeged, end the day with a craft burger at Cirmi that evening.

SUNDAY For breakfast, a jalapeñosmozzarella pastry at Rudi és Fickó sets you up for a walk through the Lombkorona Promenade in Makó. Then nip over to Gyula where, after visiting the castle, you can relax in the Castle Spa. Dine at Monster Downtown in Szeged, with its reinvented street food and whisky.

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Dóm tér

SZEGED & AROUND

NEW SYNAGOGUE The second largest of its kind in Hungary after Budapest’s, this synagogue features excellent acoustics, allowing it to stage frequent concerts. Jósika utca 10 KÁRÁSZ UTCA The most well-known street in downtown Szeged begins with statues that seem to greet you. Whenever you tire of walking, you can nip into a cosy shop or café imbued with a Mediterranean ambience.

BRIDGE OF SIGHS Along central Széchenyi tér, a model of the Bridge of Sighs in Venice between City Hall and the Bérpalota arches over a passageway where, legend has it, Emperor Franz Joseph once passed. Széchenyi tér 15

7 UNMISSABLE SIGHTS IN SZEGED DÓM TÉR The twin spires of the Votive Church reaching to the sky have long been regarded as the symbol of Szeged. The square, surrounded by a row of U-shaped arcades, captivates passers-by.

Water Tower

BOTANICAL GARDENS To escape the sun’s rays, you can admire lotus-topped lakes, a Japanese garden and a tropical greenhouse where almost 1,200 types of plants are kept. Lövölde út 42. fuveszkert.u-szeged.hu

REÖK PALACE The nephew of renowned 19th-century painter Mihály Munkácsy built this raised mansion, now an Art Nouveau icon. Water motifs and waving surfaces run throughout the building, where cultural events and exhibitions are also staged. Tisza Lajos körút 56. reok.hu WATER TOWER The oldest working reinforced concrete water tower in Hungary has long served as a model for this kind of structure.

From the top, gaze over Szeged’s colourful houses from a height of 55 metres. Szent István tér 106

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SZEGED & AROUND

SZEGED & AROUND

5 SPECTACULAR ART NOUVEAU BUILDINGS IN DOWNTOWN SZEGED BÉRHÁZ (VASALÓHÁZ) Locals refer to this spectacular corner building as ‘The Ironhouse’, where comical heads, vines and carved columns echo Art Nouveau. Below, a pharmacy has been operating since 1834. Takaréktár utca 8/Horváth Mihály utca 9. szecesszio.szegedvaros.hu DEUTSCH-PALOTA Bright green, orange and blue – this palace created by Ödön Lechner and Vilmos Zsolnay stops you in your tracks. These two decorated Szeged with Hungarian folk art. Dózsa utca 2. szecesszio.szegedvaros.hu UNGÁR-MAYER-PALOTA The loveliest parts of the building are best seen from Dugonics tér. Its onionshaped cupola hugs the female forms over the gateway to Tábor utca. Kárász utca 16. szecesszio.szegedvaros.hu

Ungár–Mayer-palota

GRÓF-PALOTA The largest Art Nouveau building in the city centre. Notable are the jutting-out balconies, Oriental-style decorations on the façade and peacocks so popular in Hungarian folk art. Tisza Lajos körút 20. szecesszio.szegedvaros.hu BEREGI-HÁZ Like a giant jewel box, this building in a row of Szeged palaces typifies Hungarian Art Nouveau with its lacy forms and floral decorations, and the Oriental influence seen in its spire. Deák Ferenc utca 22. szecesszio.szegedvaros.hu 108

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SLIPPERS FROM SZEGED Among Szeged’s iconic artefacts, along with paprika, slippers were also brought in by the Turks, made and worn during the Ottoman occupation.

After the Great Flood of 1879, the local slipper business really took off around the city and the szegedi papucs became the typical footwear for locals in the 19th and 20th centuries.

Szeged slippers are hand-sewn, but differ from other varieties in terms of their embroidery, displaying wild flowers, forget-me-nots, poppies and wheatears. Their high heel is also characteristic, though from the 1940s onwards. Japanese-made plain-soled slippers were also being manufactured. The last local slipper master was Sándor Rátkai, a folk artist who made hand-crafted, twisted slippers.

And why don’t Szeged come in pairs? Because the slippers were usually prepared on a shoe tree and the pairing was only decided once the wearer tried them on. The tassels and ribbons were added later.

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Alkimista Kulináris Műhely

SZEGED & AROUND

KAPCA If you’re up for an extravagant burger, then you should tuck into the Chickpea or Lipi variety here. The rest of the dishes and drinks on offer are pretty extraordinary, too, the thyme-apple soup and Tamás cordials. Rákóczi utca 1. facebook.com/kapca.cafe CLASSIC GRILL The Serbian influence here is illustrated by the ćevapčići rissoles wrapped in bacon with ajvar and flatbread, the duck-and-orange salad and the Szabadka pancakes. The perfect place to unwind during a summer’s evening. Széchenyi tér 5. classicgrill.hu MONSTER DOWNTOWN This is Szeged’s new-wave restaurant, where Hungarian gastronomy is peppered with street food and a little gourmet sensibility. Here you can sample Latin-American steak or tiger prawns pan-fried in white wine. Stefánia 4. monsterdowntown.hu

7 OUTSTANDING RESTAURANTS WORTH INVESTIGATING IN SZEGED Oldies

ALKIMISTA KULINÁRIS MŰHELY At the alchemist, similar to an apartment restaurant, local ingredients underscore the fortnightly menu and selection of wines. It is worth arriving on time for the three-hour dinner, a special gastronomic experience initially presented by chef Krisztina Katkó. Kelemen utca 2. alkimistaszeged.hu

KÉT LECSÓ At this atmospheric place, you can discover everything from a fish platter to tilapia fillet in pumpkin-seed coating, and chicken leg with steamed rice, peanut sauce and mango.

Kossuth Lajos sugárút 5. facebook.com/2lecso

OLDIES In a rustic setting rounded off by a working fireplace, Oldies can provide Mediterranean and American BBQ dishes, as well as colourful salads, if that’s what you’re looking for. Oroszlán utca 6. oldiesszeged.hu CIRMI KÉZMŰVES GASZTROKOCSMA At this new-wave gastro pub uniquely decorated in style, American burgers and Mexican fajitas may be suitably combined with quality artisanal cider. Locals adore the place because of its familial atmosphere. Tisza Lajos körút 76. facebook.com/cirmigasztrokocsma 112

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Barista

SZEGED & AROUND

Szia! Coffee & Sweets

SZEGED & AROUND

SÜTI NEM SÜTI Whether it’s the lychee-and-white-chocolate macaron, tonka-bean mousse or caramel cheesecake alongside your chai latte, it’s all good after a hard morning’s stroll. The sight of their French-style cakes wins you over before you choose.

Tisza Lajos körút 44. facebook.com/sutinemsuti44 SUGAR & CANDY In the vicinity of the Votive Church, you find this smart, modern, upscale confectionery, where you can choose between the gluten-free white chocolate-and-coconut-almond tarts, mouthwatering sandwiches and imaginative croissants.

Oskola utca 27. sugarandcandy.hu

SZIA! COFFEE & SWEETS Szeged’s most magical café has been converted out of an old tuk-tuk. A sunlit Tuscan atmosphere shines around the place while you accompany your Szeged cortado with one of the spectacular pastries. Mátyás király tér. facebook.com/sziacoffee ORIENT CAFÉ & TEA At this delightful little place, leaf teas, coffee sodas or nettle crackers, alongside your coffee, can be enjoyed on the terrace. If time is pressing, you can get them to fix you a flat white to go. Tisza Lajos körút 65. facebook.com/orientcafetea

Süti nem süti

5 TOP SPOTS IN SZEGED FOR COFFEE AND CAKE

BARISTA Worth seeking out for the specialty coffees, freshly prepared smoothies, homemade cookies and biscuits. You can sample the chocolate-avocado pudding with a cappuccino to accompany it.

Boldogasszony sugárút 20. facebook.com/BaristaSzeged 114

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SZEGED & AROUND

SZEGED & AROUND

ALMÁSY CASTLE The park of this beautifully restored castle spans several periods of horticultural history. An interactive exhibition gives an insight into the daily lives of the lords who lived in the building – and their service staff. Gyula, Várkert. gyulaikastely.hu

GYULA CASTLE & GARDENS In a past stretching across more than 600 years, this castle has served as a pálinka distillery and a prison.

Today this unique fortress allows visitors to travel back in time.

Gyula, Várkert utca 2. gyulavara.hu

FARM MUSEUM If you happen to be in Gyula with the kids, this ancient place offers a great family day out, involving carriage riding and horse-riding, as well as observing buffalo, goats, sheep and wild boar. Gyula, Szabadka tanya 32

GYULA CASTLE SPA The history of the picturesque Castle Baths dates back to pre-Turkish times. It is located in a beautiful park with ancient trees, and its services can be enjoyed by young and old alike, looking to relax and heal. Gyula, Várkert utca 2. varfurdo.hu

FERENC ERKEL MEMORIAL HOUSE The composer of the Hungarian national anthem was born and raised here. The Erkel Hall showcases the master’s operas, the Erkel Memorial Room his personal objects.

Gyula, Apor Vilmos tér 7. erkelemlekhaz.hu

Gyula Castle

5 OUTSTANDING ATTRACTIONS IN GYULA

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SZEGED & AROUND

5 FASCINATING ATTRACTIONS JUST OUTSIDE SZEGED ÓPUSZTASZER At this National Heritage Park, you can see the vast Feszty Cyclorama with its insight into a vital part of Hungary’s past: the arrival of Árpád’s tribe in 895. Lovely, peaceful surroundings also beckon. Ópusztaszer, Szoborkert 68. opusztaszer.hu LOMBKORONA PROMENADE To discover a verdant paradise, head for Makó. Perfect for hikers, this path features an 18-metre-high observation tower with a wonderful panorama and a rest stop in the welcome shade of Hagymaterasz. Makó. lombkoronasetany.hu HAGYMATIKUM In Makó, this spa within a spa allows everyone to find their own particular pleasure, whether it’s an indoor or outdoor adventure pool, a bamboo massage or a herbal sauna. Makó, Makovecz tér 6. hagymatikum.hu

Lombkorona promenade

CSÚCSI HOUSE OF POTTERY Hódmezővásárhely has been the largest pottery centre in Hungary since 1950, this house commemorating the masters of Csúcsi, the poorest district in town.

This is illustrated by the fact that their only room was their workshop.

Hódmezővásárhely, Rákóczi út 101

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SYNAGOGUE This Art-Nouveau building is notable for the handcarved benches still in their original condition. The ornate windows were renovated thanks to the contribution of local glass artist Julianna Kovács. Hódmezővásárhely, Szent István tér 2

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PÉCS & AROUND

ARRIVAL

Diverse Pécs is a vibrant university town surrounded by hills, lakes and vineyards. Historical treasures abound, early Christian remains, authentic Ottoman landmarks and ceramics at the famed former Zsolnay factory, now a cultural quarter. Nearby, the Villány wine region, Szigetvár, Orfű, Harkány and Mohács provide further reason to visit Baranya County.

• By car: From Budapest, take the M6 motorway

all the way to Pécs, a journey of 2hrs 30mins.

• By train: Trains leave Budapest Keleti every

2hrs, journey time to Pécs 2hrs 45mins. Pécs station is a 10-15min walk from town or three bus stops.

ATTRACTIONS There are enough historical and cultural attractions to keep you busy in Pécs for at least a day, possibly two. The wine cellars of Villány, spa at Harkány and hikes around the Mecsek hills make for a great long weekend break.

INFORMATION • iranypecs.hu/en • villanyborvidek.hu • zsolnaynegyed.hu/en

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PÉCS & AROUND

MECSEK HILLS

LAKE ORFŰ

PASHA GAZI KESIM MOSQUE

VILLÁNY

PÉCS CATHEDRAL

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PÉCS & AROUND

PÉCS & AROUND

Discover

PÉCS & SURROUNDINGS IN 3 DAYS

FRIDAY Start the day with a hearty brunch at the Reggeli and then grab the city by the horns. Take a tour around the heart of Pécs, touching upon Pasha Gazi Kesim Mosque, Pécs Cathedral and the Early Christian Graves, before a stroll up to the Zsolnay Cultural Quarter. In the evening, relax with a drink outdoors, at the Nappali, perhaps, or the N-Eozin Grill Terrace.

SATURDAY Dedicate your morning to culture at the Vasarely and Csontváry Museums, before rewarding yourself with a delicious lunch at Soul Kitchen. In the afternoon, conquer the TV Tower dominating the heights of Messina and take in the panorama from the tallest building in Hungary.

Returning to Pécs, descend into the five-storey cellar system of the visitor center at the Littke champagne factory.

SUNDAY Climb up to the Tettye Mésztufa Cave then drop in for a lemonade at Tettye Coffee.

Discover all the new arrivals exciting visitors to Pécs Zoo, and crown your adventurous long weekend with the substantial menu at the Kikelet restaurant.

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Pasha Gazi Kesim Mosque

PÉCS & AROUND

VASARELY MUSEUM This pioneer of Op-Art was born in Pécs as Győző Vásárhelyi and though he was to find fame in France where he spent most of his life, he later donated several hundred graphics, silkscreens, sculptures and tapestries to his home town.

Káptalan utca 3. jpm.hu CSONTVÁRY MUSEUM Opened in 1973, this museum includes paintings discovered in an abandoned studio, including the iconic Lonely Cedar, symbolic of Csontváry’s singular vision.

Janus Pannonius utca 11. jpm.hu EARLY CHRISTIAN GRAVES This UNESCO World Heritage site in the centre of Pécs dates back 1,700 years, with early Christian graves and paintings on view at the Cella Septichora Visitor Centre. Night tours are conducted by special request. Szent István tér. pecsorokseg.hu BISHOP’S PALACE Here you can gain an insight into the former lives of high priests. Downstairs is the famous cellar, the ’Texas Bar’, where bishops would retreat for secret conversations within a palace loaded with listening devices in Communist times. Dóm tér 2. pecsiegyhazmegye.hu

PASHA GAZI KESIM MOSQUE This historic Ottoman landmark stands on the city’s main square. Over the centuries, it has become a revered symbol of Pécs – albeit one that’s a bit skewed as it faces towards Mecca. Széchenyi tér 20 PÉCS CATHEDRAL Built on the site of a church from the early Christian era, the Cathedral of Sts Peter and Paul is a 19th-century remake. There’s a wonderful panorama from the south-west tower.

Dóm tér 1. pecsiegyhazmegye.hu

Zsolnay Quarter

7 FASCINATING ATTRACTIONS TO DISCOVER IN PÉCS

ZSOLNAY QUARTER The site of the Zsolnay Porcelain Manufactory is a cultural zone, created as part of the city’s role as European Capital of Culture in 2010. Worth the trek for the Gyugyi Collection of 700 unique Zsolnay ceramics. Felsővámház utca 52. zsolnaynegyed.hu 126

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THE MYSTIC BULL OF PÉCS Think of Pécs and you think of Zsolnay, the world-famous manufacturers of tiles and porcelain, creators of unique eosin glazing, whose bull’s head motif has become synonymous with the city itself. The animal head first appeared in the work of goldsmiths in Nagyszentmiklós, which inspired the designers at Zsolnay. In 1908, the son of the famed Vilmos Zsolnay, Miklós, offered a ceremonial fountain as gift to the city, which usually decorated them with characteristic gargoyles. Although completed in 1911, the fountain was not put in place for another two decades. Hidden away during World War I, it was only discovered in 1923, in a school cellar. Then ensued an eight-year debate about where to put the thing. Eventually it was installed on focal Széchenyi tér in 1930, when the county council also adopted it as a decorative emblem.

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PÉCS & AROUND

Pécs Zoo

PÉCS & AROUND

TETTYE MÉSZTUFA CAVE Known as the Gates of Hell, thought to have a dragon guarding its entrance, this geological formation dates back 10,000 years. There’s an exhibition to see and other attractions here on hilltop Tettye. Pécs, Tettye utca 65. barlangpecs.hu REMETERÉT Whether it is the most spectacular star shower of the year, the Perseida meteor storm in August or deer rutting in early autumn, Remeterét is the perfect place to observe nature.

Pécs, Remeteréti út PTE BOTANICAL GARDEN Some 1,000 species of shrubs and trees, plus 3,000 perennials, are spread around this venerable protected area, set up nearly 70 years ago. You’ll find some on sale on the upper level of the Palm House. Pécs, Ifjúság útja 6. botanikuskert.pte.hu PINTÉR BOTANICAL GARDEN The private collection of a local bank official is open to the public at the Pintér Botanical Garden, where numerous types of protected plants include the red-listed Bánát peony and valuable orchid varieties. Pécs Tettye tér 9. ddnp.hu/pinter-kert

MOHÁCS ISLAND The best way to traverse Mohács Island is by bicycle. Starting out from the Mohács ferry, you ride all the way along the Danube dam to the end, then through Erdőfű and Kölked, until you get back to Mohács.

PÉCS ZOO Along with admiring the animals, you can plan your visit around demonstration feeding times. Look out for the llamas, savannah monkeys and the baby meerkats that were all born here recently. Pécs, Angyán János utca 1. pecszoo.hu

PTE Botancal Garden

7 NATURAL ATTRACTIONS TO ADMIRE IN AND AROUND PÉCS

VILLÁNY-SIKLÓS WINE ROAD For that winning combination of wine and sport, take to the saddle and set out on the refurbished sloping bicycle trail that connects the western and eastern sides of the Villány wine region. villanyiborvidek.hu 130

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PÉCS & AROUND

Soul Kitchen

PÉCS & AROUND

BALKÁN BISZTRÓ Classic Balkan cuisine awaits in a hidden corner of the city centre. For years, the ćevapčići platters have been a favourite for local carnivores, as have the distilled vegetable spirits, worth sampling. Pécs, Ferencesek utcája 32. balkanbisztro.hu BLÖFF BISZTRÓ Fresh seafood is accompanied by a thoughtful wine selection at this small restaurant, where quality raw ingredients are supplied by reliable local producers. It’s worth booking because the chefs have many fans of their flavoursome creations. Pécs, Jókai tér 5 PALKONYHA Created from local produce and grandmother’s recipes, dishes at this country house-cum-restaurant need no waiter or menu.

Think rustic breakfasts and oven-baked dinners, all about 30km south of Pécs. Palkonya, Fő utca 76. palkonyha.hu

SOUL KITCHEN In place of cult spot Parti Galéria, the cosy corner Soul Kitchen cooks with gusto, surrounded by regular art exhibitions.

The bread is baked on-site, accompanying the tasting platter for two.

Pécs, Mária utca 1. facebook.com/soulkitchen.pecs

Almalomb

ALMALOMB At this converted 19th-century watermill, diners may opt for the culinary Forest Walk, allowing chef Gergő Csonka to guide them through an exciting array of flavours. As they say, getting lost is half the fun. Hosszúhetény, Ormándi utca 19. almalomb.hu

7 GREAT GASTRONOMIC DESTINATIONS IN AND AROUND PÉCS

SAUSKA 48 Relax in the light of the setting sun, embraced by vineyards, with a glass of vintage champagne in your hand.

Whatever he creates, chef Attila Bicsár should bring a smile to your face. Villány, 048/10. sauska.hu PICCOLA TOSCANA Italian proprietor Gianluca moved from Lucca to Pisa and then from Pisa to Pécs to create the best pizzas in town by using his own, gargantuan, wood-burning oven at this Tuscan-style osteria. Pécs. Hungária utca 2. facebook.com/piccolatoscanainfo 132

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Trüffel cukrászda

PÉCS & AROUND

Reggeli

PÉCS & AROUND

NAPPALI Make yourself at home! As multifunctional as any living room (nappali), this nightspot hosts concerts, record fairs, exhibitions and slam poetry evenings. By day, it turns into a pleasant place to work. Király utca 23-25. facebook.com/nappali.bar

5 TOP SPOTS FOR DRINKING IN PÉCS, INDOORS AND OUT

REGGELI The little brother of the neighbouring Nappali is the ideal place to start the day. In a spacious interior, brunch dishes, specialty coffees, vegetarian and vegan cuisine await, with a terrace opening onto the city’s main thoroughfare. Király utca 23-25. facebook.com/ reggeli.bar

N-EOZIN GRILLTERASZ ÉS KULTÚRPARK The panoramic view from the castle wall promenade is stunning. On the pebble terrace of this Baroque pavilion, you relax under the trees and watch chefs prepare grilled food right before you. Esze Tamás utca 3. facebook.com/ neozin.kert

Nappali

SZABADKIKÖTŐ This is a place for exciting cultural initiatives: a cellar spins electronic music, plant-based dishes underline sustainability and a greenhouse with a green play area allows the youngest kids to amuse themselves. Király utca 64. facebook.com/szabadkikotopecs

TRÜFFEL CUKRÁSZDA At this sturdy representative of allergy- and additive-free delights, the Tuscan garden has been expanded to feature a fenced-in, child-friendly area full of toys. Their cashew-andpistachio ice creams are an absolute must! Hársfa út 34. truffel.hu 134

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Reproduction in full or in part is strictly prohibited. Our team has paid particular attention to the accuracy of all the information within but we accept no responsibility or liability for any changes which may have occurred. info@welovehungary.com Budapest, 2020

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