Fur Times Spring 2014

SPRING 2014

QUARTERLY UPDATE

IN THIS ISSUE: New Economist campaign

And the winner is...!

Fur dominant at fashion weeks Code of Practice Interview with Shohei Ohashi, winner of REMIX

Round up of Megan Imrie's Olympic performance First StyleLab Montreal

REMIX 2014 in collaboration with Vogue Talents was held on 5 March in Milan. Moving to an exciting new venue and introducing a fashion-oriented jury, this year’s competition attracted a large crowd.

The Gold Prize was awarded to Japanese entrant Shohei Ohashi, who not only took home a cash prize, but also an invitation to intern at Aquilano Rimondi. Shohei’s garment included mink, white finn raccoon and goat fur, which was dyed and plucked to reach the desired effect.

Shohei said: “I worked so hard for this competition, creating outfits focused on contradictory elements such as the ideals and reality that exists in the mind of a woman. In addition, my inspiration came from Gaudì masterpieces in Barcelona that I visited 4 years ago."

Other winners included UK entrant Altynai Osmoeva who won the Silver Prize, Mijia Zhang from the USA who won the Bronze Prize, and Nikoline Liv Andersen, who collaborated with Saga Furs to win the Pimp my Coat Award.

The event generated a great amount of conversation on social media, reaching over 620,000 people on Twitter alone. The #REMIX2014 had 1.2 million views online and the evening generated a large amount of coverage from many influential figures, including Vogue Italia, GQ Italia, and bloggers Lady Fur and Gio Mori.

CEO Comment Despite the recent drop in auction prices, I think most people remain upbeat and positive about the future. These record years always needed to adjust and the most important thing to remember is that designers are still working with fur and it is yet again all over the catwalk. Investing in designers of the future is important and I was thrilled that Vogue supported the REMIX contest this year, giving our young designer competition an even higher profile.

We also want to talk about the jobs and economic benefit fur brings - that’s why this month we launch our latest advert

in the Economist, which highlights some independent findings from Price Waterhouse Italy showing the global value of our business.

In Brussels the new Fur Europe is up and running with its formal launch and new CEO all starting in April. Elsewhere the regions are all well established now and we are seeing the benefits of more focused and joint working.

MEMBERS NEWS Eggert Feldskeri wins Tradesman of the Year Award The association of tradesmen in Reykjavík has honoured Eggert Jóhannsson and his shop Eggert Feldskeri as ‘Tradesman of the Year’.

The award is given to a tradesman who has distinguished himself through his craftsmanship, innovation and by enhancing the reputation of his trade in Iceland and abroad. Eggert Feldskeri is well-deserving, as they have received international custom as well as celebrity clientele. A range of Eggert’s furs are also featured in esteemed retailers around the world; including renowned London tailor Andersen & Shepphard.

The award was presented to Eggert by the president of Iceland Mr. Ólafur Ragnar Grímsson in early February.

Eggert revealed his new collection in late March at a show in an old power station in Reykjavik. He collaborated with young talents such as local hat designer Anna Gulla, and young Icelandic artist Elin Hansdottir, who was in charge of the stage design.

First StyleLab a success

Montreal

deemed

After 31 years, the Fur Council of Canada haAfter 31 years, the Fur Council of Canada has reinvented its signature trade show NAFFEM as StyleLab-Montreal, focusing on luxury outerwear targeted to the high-end boutique market. The new show ran from 2224 March at the Palais des Congrès, Montreal.

The new show brought together around 60 exhibitors, mainly from Canada, with a few European collections. They included traditional fur specialists like Montreal’s high-end Natural Furs, knit-fur pioneer Paula Lishman and Zuki, known for his wildly patterned coats in many colours.

“Fur is increasingly being integrated into general fashion, in accessories or mixed with other materials like cloth and leather” said Alan Herscovici, executive vice-president of the Fur Council.

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New Economist Campaign Launched In March Our latest Economist advert has launched across the globe and this year focuses on the findings of an independent report

by Price Waterhouse Italy. The advert appeared in issues in 90 countries around the world that hit the newsstands on 28 March.

Mark Oaten, CEO of IFF, comments: “These figures, unveiled for the first time, show that it’s been a great couple of years for the industry. While of course there have been challenges, such as the recent economic slowdown in China and the fluctuating price of fur at auction, the recent cold weather in North America and its increasing popularity on catwalks globally has once again thrown our sector into the spotlight.

“This study demonstrates the unquestionable value the fur trade brings to the global economy. It’s easy to get caught up in the emotions the business can generate, but the truth is that the fur trade is an economic cornerstone in Europe and beyond. Much of the fashion and increasingly the soft furnishings world relies on fur – and will continue to do so for the foreseeable future.”

IFF News Code of Practice We are pleased to announce that IFF members are currently signing the Code of Practice which gives commitments on how the fur industry operates on the environment, welfare, financial regulations, employment and the international convention on CITIES. Luxury Tax Challenge Discussions are taking place in Hungary and Romania over new taxes the countries have introduced on luxury goods, including fur. One of the principles of the IFF is to create a fair market with as few tariffs and taxes as possible, so we are working with our members and consultants to challenge these proposals.

WTO and Morality The ongoing legal challenges over seals at the WTO have focused recently on questions of public morality. With the support of Larry Lassoff, a paper challenging the morality elements of this case has been submitted and IFF is working on some media articles to trigger a debate on the issue of governments deciding what is morally acceptable for their electorate.

Invasive Alien Species In September last year, the Commission presented a Regulation for Management of Invasive Alien Species. There is a risk that

American mink and Finn Raccoon will be put on the list. In recent months, Fur Europe has worked to ensure that the criteria for the list includes socioeconomic impacts in order to have economic losses counted if a species is banned.

Fur Europe has also secured a permit system allowing countries to seek a farming permit in case American mink or Finn Raccoon are put on the list. An agreement has been reached between the European Parliament, the Member States and the Commission. The final vote in the Plenary of the European Parliament will take place in April and the final vote by the Council of Ministers will take place at the beginning of May. The regulation will be enforced one year after the adoption.

European Commission visits MiFur Fur Europe invited the Policy Officer Agniezka Wojdyr from the fashion unit DG Industry and Enterprises, to visit MiFur in Milan. Mrs. Wojdyr met a number of fur industry representatives, discussed ideas and received input for the work in the Commission. There were both discussions on the challenges of the industry and possible funding opportunities for young designers and furriers. The Commission is working to strengthen the cooperation and to facilitate more cooperation between different sectors.

INTERVIEW

Interview with Shohei Ohashi, winner of the REMIX 2014 Gold Prize

Why do you like working with fur?

Fur is a beautiful thing, and designers are only just uncovering new ways to work with it. I want to produce fur garments that are fashion-forward - representing new times, new techniques and new expression.

Shohei Ohashi, 23, has become the newest winner of the REMIX International Fur Design Competition, this year in collaboration with Vogue Italia. From Japan, Shohei is currently studying Fashion Design at Osaka Bunka Fashion School and graduates in 2014. After winning the ‘Pimp my Coat’ award in REMIX 2013, he returned this year to enter in the main category, successfully taking home the Gold Prize.

Shohei wowed the jury with three looks inspired by optical art, working with material effects and nuances from different furs, creating a modulated rhythm with mink, finn raccoon and goatskin. The jury, chaired by Vogue Italia’s editor-in-chief Franca Sozzani, selected Shohei’s innovative design from over 36 garments entered by other up-and-coming designers from all four IFF regions.

Congratulations, Shohei!

Thank you so much. I am very happy to have won.

How were you first introduced to fur?

I had never used fur in my designs until I entered a fur design competition a few years ago. Firstly, I was impressed by the splendor of fur fashion that can be seen in the collections of various designers. Then I began to explore creatively and fell in love with fur as a design material.

It is an exciting area to be working in right now because there are constantly new techniques and machines you can use to create innovative, lightweight garments for any occasion or price range.

What was the inspiration behind your REMIX design?

I worked so hard for this competition, creating outfits focused on contradictory elements, such as the ideals and reality that exists in the mind of a woman. In addition, my inspiration came from Gaudì masterpieces in Barcelona that I visited 4 years ago.

I want to present newer and more aesthetically pleasing fur garments by emphasising the characteristics of fur itself such as colour. My REMIX garment used mink, white finn raccoon and goat. The fur was dyed and plucked to achieve the look I wanted.

Fur dominant at fashion weeks

Fur dominated fashion weeks once again, with the majority of shows at each of the four major fashion weeks including fur. There was also a large amount of fur on the streets surrounding the fashion shows, as well as on the front row.

Celebrities such as Anna Dello Russo and Rihanna wore fur to shows time and again, creating many media headlines.

One of the strongest themes to emerge from the Autumn/Winter 2014-15 collections was a defined sense of artistic expression through construction techniques that emphasised abstract lines, exaggerated proportions, dimensional interest or through the use of colour. Whether it be bold pattern, offbeat brights, barely-there pales or statement colour blocking, an artful palette of considered colour combinations will be the key to getting things right for next winter.

Texture too, plays an important role. With statement placement updating fur/fabric combinations and the natural rawness of fur creating a feral contrast to the sleek glossiness of a technology driven age. This juxtaposition of old and new offers an interesting contrast for next winter. Retro femininity still has a role to play in the season ahead also, where a quirky 50s/60s sensibility will lighten up the mood and add a new playfulness and experimental quality to design, print and pattern direction. For a full overview of trends, please visit: wearefur.com/fur-fashion/ on-the-catwalk/catwalk-trends/2014/autumn.

What are your plans now that you have won REMIX 2014?

I will study in Florence, Italy this year, at Polimoda Fashion School. I have been accepted into the school’s exchange program of one year, so first I need to learn the language. Once I have finished my studies I will be looking for a job based in Italy. I see myself in Italy in the near future but I will not stay there forever.

What would be your dream job?

Right now, I am interested in design work dealing with fur in Italy.

Do you think fur will be present at fashion shows for many years to come?

I think that it will survive, of course. As long as man wants to wear it and designers can keep regenerating it as a material, fur fashion will remain strong.

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Round up of Megan Imrie's Olympic performance IFF and the Canadian fur trade were proud to co-sponsor Canadian biathlete Megan Imrie at the Sochi Winter Olympic Games.

On 9 February, Megan’s campaign for victory began with the Women’s 7.5km Sprint, where she finished in 31st –improving massively upon her 76th place finish at the Vancouver 2010 games. As one of the top 60 finishers in the Sprint, Megan qualified for the Women’s 10km Pursuit just two days later, where she finished 28th - just behind Canadian teammate Zina Kocher, who finished 25th.

On 14 February, Megan celebrated her birthday as well as another impressive result as she finished 30th overall in the Women’s

15km individual event. Finishing in the top 30 meant Megan qualified for the 12.5km Mass Start event on 17 February (the only Canadian athlete to do so), where she placed 27th.

Megan said: “I'm so grateful for the support of Canadian trappers and the fur community.

I feel a real kinship with those in the field, who have a similar lifestyle to my own family.

I appreciate everyone's kindness and look forward to representing Canadian Fur around the globe!”

Megan also took part in both the Women’s Relay and the Mixed Relay events, where Canada placed 8th and 11th respectively.

Update from Eurasia region

On 11-12 December 2013, the Eurasia Board held their 2nd IFF meeting and a seminar on the consolidation of the customs tariff legal system on the territory of Eurasia. Representatives from all over the world were in attendance.

On 15 January 2014, they held a forum in Beijing on “Prospects of the China-Russian fur trade”. This forum was extremely important, and discussed the main problems of the fur market functioning in both countries. The forum will be held regularly, with the next being in Kazakhstan in July.

Update from Europe region

Last year the Commisison published a Regulation on Consumer Product Safety, which included an article concerning a 'Country of Origin'-label. Fur Europe has worked against this proposal as the label will only state the 'last substantial economic process'.

The European Parliament is still supporting the label, but the Member States have blocked the proposal and it will not be dealt with in this electoral term.

For more of Fur Europe’s work; see Invasive Alien Species and European Commissioner visits MiFur in IFF News section on page 2.

Update from Americas region

New Global Insurance Partner We are pleased to announce that we have chosen A&B Insurance Market Services as our global insurance partner. A&B Insurance Market Services will officially launch their exclusive IFF insurance facility on 1 May 2014.

With the impact of changing weather patterns, along with increased uncertainly in the insurance industry with regard to fur related risks, now is the perfect time to provide our members with specialist protection and ensure they benefit from quality advice and cover when placing their insurance risks.

A&B Insurance Market Services are the UK’s leading insurance broker to the Fur industry, with an exceptional knowledge and understanding of the risks our members face daily, having arranged specialist cover for their clients in UK, USA, Far East and Europe

since 1995. The IFF facility will provide cover for all aspects of the industry, including traders, processors, shippers and retailers.

Through an exclusive arrangement with a specialist UK insurer, members will benefit from the most comprehensive policy cover available in the insurance market by using this new IFF facility.

The IFF insurance facility will provide members with the following key benefits; • The most extensive policy wording available • 5% instant discount for all worldwide association members • Complimentary risk review and consultation • Dedicated IFF Claims and Advisory team • Key insurance alerts and news sent direct to your inbox For more information, please see: www. wearefurinsurance.com

For more information or to send us news: furtimes@iftf.com. www.

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.com

FurInsider.com is now covering fashion events in South America, with the cooperation of Argentine member, FACIF. This has extended their ‘front row’ coverage of fashion events to millions of Spanish speaking readers.

Nanos Research was commissioned to measure the impact of specific messages on public opinion. The research found that 83% of Americans believe in the right to wear fur and 46% want their politicians to promote freedom to choose.

Truthaboutfur.com launched in March, with factual information on the North American Fur Trade.

Update from Asia region

IFF Asia Region had its first board meeting for the year 2014 on 24 February in Hong Kong. During this board meeting, the Board approved Asia Region Terms And Conditions and the regional budget cut.

The first Designer Workshop Asia Road Show will start from Hong Kong, Seoul, Tokyo then Beijing between June 10-16th, 2014. Asia Region also launched a series of PR work in Mainland China, Hong Kong, Korea and Japan.