Bordeaux j'adore 2016 by Office de Tourisme de Bordeaux Métropole

Lifestyle Magazine

BORDEAUX

J’adore

BORDEAUX J’ADORE

L i f e s t y l e M a g a z i n e • S u m m e r ‘ 16 • N . 2 • 9 ¤

The sunshine Summer - 16. N.2

is here! MICHELIN STARS And their galaxy

MEDOC

Bages, the base camp

La Cité du Vin, Euro 2016, Bordeaux Wine Festival The town is a party

CYCLING

The Bassin d’Arcachon

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PHOTO PHILIPPE TARIS

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2016, Bordeaux’s year “A mouveable feast.” This posthumous book written by Ernest Hemingway in which he declared his love for the city of light and all its delightful pleasures could easily correspond to Bordeaux. After having been reunited with its river, its quays, its pale stones et and its love of life, the city is living an explosive ensemble like an extraordinary fireworks display. Bordeaux has long been searching for its contemporary flagship. And it has been found with La Cité du Vin, open to the public in June. A surprising building, dressed in gold and glass is moored to the Garonne river’s dock. It is here that, not so long ago, impressive ships full of adventurous men, set sail for new worlds. And their hands were far from empty: in the holds were thousands of bottles of wine destined to honour a city fondly attached to its land. At the very same dock, thousands of inquisitive visitors started their discovery of the surrounding vineyards. Both historically and presently, at Bordeaux, the wine is well and truly a party. Every two years the city organises a wine festival, alternating with that of the river, and the tenth edition will be held this year between 23rd and 26th June. For four days, Bordeaux’s fine wines will be staged on the riverfront in a safe, friendly atmosphere, open to everyone and to all cultures. The city will also vibrate in early summer as five matches for the Euro 2016 will be held between the 10th June and the 10th July. Slovakians, Irish, Spanish, Welsh, Austrians, Hungarians, Belgians and Croatians will trample the grass at the new, ultra modern stadium voted internationally as the year’s most beautiful sport architecture. For those who do not have tickets, huge screens will be installed upon the immense Quinconces square, renamed the “Fan zone” for the occasion. “Bordeaux j’adore” has naturally chosen to dedicate its special dossier to this exceptional year, one that is sure to engrave the capital of the Aquitaine region on the world map for the most beautiful city breaks on the planet. This magazine contains several propositions to guide you to the heart of a city. One which its inhabitants never cease to reinvent to make it merry, welcoming, creative and modern. You will see, Bordeaux is genuinely an ongoing party. Marie-Luce Ribot

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PHOTO QUENTIN SALINIER

Bordeaux J’adore

C O N T E N T S

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Barbara Shroeder’s positive energy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 To do list . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 Welcome to the ball . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 Bordeaux, a view from its iconic river . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Generation after generation in town . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30 Behind the scenes at the ballet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36 Like a small « Palazzo Grassi » . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43 A few of our favorite things . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46 The hipster hook . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52 Old and new shopping à la concept . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56 Michelin stars and their galaxy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60 A cool and tasty dinner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .64 When in Bordeaux, a glass with the locals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .68 Sweet Bordeaux . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70 Where they go, we follow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .74 Happy families . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .76 Medoc base camp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .80 Find your way amongst the vineyards . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .84

BORDEAUX J’ADORE EditEur : GROUPE SUD-OUEST dépôt légal : 29 MARS 2016 imprEssion : KORUS EDITIONS À EYSINES issn : EN COURS réalisation : AGENCE DE DÉVELOPPEMENT SUD OUEST.

Cycling the Bassin d’Arcachon from Cap Ferret to Pyla . . . . . . . . .90

ConCEption graphiquE : SERVICES TECHNIQUES SUD OUEST

Saint-Emilion, the contemporary and ancestral wine cellars . . . . .95

graphistE : ARMEL ESTÈVE

Where the glass is always greener . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .101 A passion for gardens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .105 Winging it in the Charente Maritime . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108 Good to know . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112

Coordination : ETUDES ET MEDIAS illustration dE unE : HERVÉ LEFÈBVRE - TWIN STUDIO

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PHOTO PHILIPPE TARIS

◆ —— BORDEAUX —— ◆

“I went to Bordeaux where I spent eight days. After Paris, it is the best town in France.” Giovanni Giacomo Casanova

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“Bordeaux is a beautiful place to tell a beautiful story.” Mary Higgins Clark

◆

“Bordeaux is an odd, unusual, perhaps unique town. Take Versailles and mix it with Anvers and you have Bordeaux (...) There are two Bordeaux, the new one and the ancient one. Everything in the modern Bordeaux breathes the greetness of Versailles; everything in the old Bordeaux tells history like in Anvers.” Victor Hugo

◆

“When we came near the bank to cross the Garonne the morning after, the magniﬁcient view of the most beautiful town in France struck me.” Arthur Shopenhauer -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4 --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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◆ —— INTERVIEW —— ◆

Barbara Schroeder’s Positive Energy 2 NOLA D’ENIS

Barbara Schroeder is as passionate about her adopted region as she is about her art. paintings, sculptures and porcelain potatoes, to discuss Bordeaux, the people, the places and her favourite haunts.

PHOTO CLAUDE PRINGENT

WE MET AT HER STUDIO DEEP IN THE BLAYE COUNTRYSIDE — over Georgian tea and homemade cakes — surrounded by

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◆ Old Bordeaux

◆ El Nacional

◆ Utopia

➤

‘I’m constantly inspired by South America’ Of all the restaurants we discussed — and there were a few Barbara finally decided on this one, in the Chartrons district. Chosen for the great steaks as well as the atmosphere which transports her back to South America, a continent that has inspired her art. Her choice of accompanying wine is easy — the restaurant serves wine from Barbara’s family vineyards, Château Grand-Maison.

◆ Darwin

‘I’d come here all the time if I could’ Artsy, independent and firmly implanted in the Bordelais cultural scene, it’s not hard to see why the converted-chapel-turnedcinema appeals to Barbara. She knew the building when it stood empty and loved its cavernous spaces, and revels in the renovation that has kept much of the original architecture and structure. The libertarian, multicultural programme — films are shown in their original versions (VO) is a huge draw for Barbara who loves to bridge the gap between her adopted country and the rest of the world.

“Utopia is artsy, independent and firmly implanted in the Bordelais cultural scene”

‘Terriblement Optimiste’ Just like Utopia, Darwin represents New Wave Bordeaux - the shrugging off of the old and the firm belief in the future. Barbara adores Darwin, the energy of a working Ecosystem that buzzes with ideas and dreams, and the cultural coexistence — the young and old, hipsters, bohemians and family groups, all at ease amongst raw brick and recycled brocante.

◆ Galerie Le Troisième œil, Bordeaux

‘Where it all started’ As a decorated Chevalier des Arts, Barbara has come a long way from the art student who first knocked on the gallery door in 1984. A long standing relationship developed between the artist and Anne-Marie Marquette, the gallery owner who still displays Barbara’s work and holds exhibitions at the gallery.

➤

◆ The Rivers

PHOTO ARCHIVES STEPHANE LARTIGUE

‘It’s very people, for the people. I love that’. As a former student of the Ecole des Beaux-Arts in the ancient Ste-Croix quarter, Barbara is familiar with downtown Bordeaux. She loves the area for the vibrant mix of people — students, workers, tourists and locals — and for its total lack of pretension.

‘The pull of the confluence towards distant shores’. Barbara is passionate about the rivers that flow through her life reminding her of the Rhône in her native Germany. The sleepy Dordogne on her doorstep with its changing forms; the swirling Garonne and urban quayside in Bordeaux, 40 kms to the South, the foghorn of departing ships and a tang of iodine.

Barbara’s Bordeaux

◆ École des Beaux-Arts

7 Rue des Beaux Arts - 33800 Bordeaux Tel: +33 (0)5 56 33 49 10

◆ Galerie Le Troisième Oeil

17, rue des remparts - 33000 Bordeaux Tel: +33 (0)5 56 44 32 23

◆ Utopia Cinéma

PHOTO ARCHIVES LAURENT THEILLET

5 Place Camille Jullian - 33000 Bordeaux Tel: +33 (0)5 56 52 00 03

◆ The Darwin Project

87 Quai des Queyries - 33100 Bordeaux Tel: +33 (0)5 56 77 52 06

◆ El Nacional

23 bis Rue Rode - 33000 Bordeaux Tel: +33 (0)5 56 79 22 76

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TO DO LIST

◆ —— CALENDAR —— ◆

2 MICHELLE DE LA ROSA LEWIS Open-air restaurants known as “Les Epicuriales” in the centre of Bordeaux. PHOTO GUILLAUME BONNAUD

LAprilL

palmer.fr/billetterie/ Address: 1 Rue Aristide Briand 33152 Cenon

1st - 3rd April

L’escale du livre. A three-day book fair in the lively Sainte-Croix neighbourhood, Place Renaudel. 150 authors, discussions, book-readings, meetings, exhibitions, workshops, performances, and shows in a genuine "village" devoted to books. 7th April

Orchestre des symphonistes d’Aquitaine. Symphony orchestra of Aquitaine at the Rocher de Palmer concert hall.

This concert dedicates part of its repertoire to the Spanish figura maxima Joaquin Turina. Also present in line with the Spanish theme : Habanera de Chabrier and Concierto Fantástico of Isaac Albéniz. The pianist from Bordeaux, Jean-Philippe Guillo, will also play with the latter. Tickets: http://lerocherde

9th April

Marathon de Bordeaux Running in the night

This will be the second edition for this original running trail which takes place in the city and its surroundings. In a festive atmosphere, this marathon and half marathon occurs by night. And of course everything is different ! http://www.marathondeborde auxmetropole.com/ 19th - 26th April

22nd April - 8th May

La foire à la brocante. Triple trade show: antiques, ham and horticulture. Fans of either of these three very diverse sectors are called to Quinconces square!

29th April- 27th September

Exposition Baccarat Cristal de Légende à l’Institut culturel Bernard Magrez. Address: 16 rue de Tivoli. Fine crystal glassware exhibition.

The prestigious glass-maker’s Baccarat company will put on show some of its major

pieces at Château Labottière. From Friday - Monday 13:00 18:00. On Tuesdays open until 21:00. Tel: +33 5 56 81 72 77. To reserve: visites@institutbernard-magrez.com 28th April

World music.

Aynur Dogan and Kayhan Kalhor at the Rocher du Palmer concert hall bring to Bordeaux Turquish, Kurd and Persian traditional music at 20:30. Tickets: http://lerocherde palmer.fr/billetterie/ Address: 1 Rue Aristide Briand 33152 Cenon

Benjamin Britten at the opera.

Do you want a single version of The Turn of th screw from Benjamin Britten ? With director Dominique Pitoiset you will be surprised… and scared. This opera was written in 1954 inspired from an Henry James short story. « Le tour d’écrou », at the Grand-Théâtre, place de la comédie. www.opera-bordeaux.com

Baccarat’s fine handmade glass objects. PHOTO PATRICK HERTZOG

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30th April

14th May

After the success of Paul Dewandre's “Men are from Mars and Women are from Venus”, the laughter continues in the follow-up play. 10 rue de Grassi. Tel: +33 5 56 48 26 26 / www.box.fr

Live performances, visuals, documentaries, débats, conferences, workshops… all centred on electronic music at the Rocher du Palmer concert hall. It is the “Zone Sonore Temporaire”. Tickets: http://lerocherdepalmer.fr/ billetterie/ Address: 1 Rue Aristide Briand 33152 Cenon

Mars and Venus 2 at the Femina theatre, 20:30.

LMayL 3rd May - 2nd October

Exposition au musée national des douanes. Exhibition at the National Customs Museum.

A unique photographic record of the customs service and officers, their work, missions, and resources. Open 10:00-18:00. Address: 1 quai de la douane 33064. Tel: +33 5 56 48 82 82. 14th-17th may

BGF-Bordeaux’s Geek Festival.

When being a geek becomes cool. This festival transports you to the world of Lord of the Rings, Games of Thrones, Star Wars, Doctor Who, Spiderman and Batman as well as to the more scientific world of drones and robots. There is even a space for information seekers on youtube fame, podcasts and streaming. Address: Hall 2 du Parc des expositions at Bordeaux Lac, Cours Charles Bricaud, 33300. Open from 9am. 14th - 22nd May

Bordeaux’s International commercial Fair at the Exhibition Centre.

It is the second biggest commercial rendez-vous in France and in 2016 it will celebrate its 100th birthday! Address: Parc des expositions at Bordeaux Lac, Cours Charles Bricaud, 33300. Open everyday from 10:00-20:00. On Wednesdays open until 22:30. Free from 18:00 onwards, except Wednesdays. Tel: +33 9 69 39 10 33

Zone sonore temporaire. More than 24 hours of electronic music!

20th - 29th May

The ballet, Giselle, at Bordeaux’s grand theatre.

The choreograph is Charles Jude. Afternoon and evening performances available. Address: Place de la Comédie, 33000. To reserve call +33 5 56 00 85 95 from Tuesday to Saturday 13:00-18:30 or go directly to the theatre during these hours. To book online: www. opera-bordeaux.com. 20th May - 4th June

Les Epicuriales,

In a festive spirit, come for lunch or dinner under the tents of various vast open-air restaurants set up on the Allées de Tourny, next to the Grand Théâtre. Open everyday from 11am-1am! 21st May

Les Mukherjee.

Indrani Mukherjee, an Indian singer and her husband, Apurba Mukherjee, a famous Tabla player, bring together the sounds of North India at the Rocher du Palmer concert hall at 20:30. Tickets: http://lerocherde palmer.fr/billetterie/ Address: 1 Rue Aristide Briand 33152 Cenon 26th - 27th May

Stacey Kent,

a great jazz singer, will perform at the Bordeaux Opera house.

Thursday at 20:00. Friday at 19:00. Address: Auditorium, salle Dutilleux at 9-13 Cours Georges Clémenceau, 33000 30th May - 29th October

Football : à la limite du hors jeu. "Football. Beating the offside trap”.

An exhibition at the Aquitaine Museum to celebrate the Euro 2016. A reflection on the position of football and its role in today's world from a historical and anthropological perspective. Open 11:00-18:00. Address: 20 cours Pasteur 33000. Tel: +33 5 56 01 51 00.

of Bordeaux, place de la Comédie. All evening performances at 20:00 except Sunday 19th with an afternoon performance at 15:00. 21st June

Bordeaux’s music festival. The annual rendez-vous for music lovers. Jazz, rock, classical, electronic or traditional music… all genres liven the streets. 22nd to 30th June

The Belem,

a 19th-century three-masted sailing ship, moors in Bordeaux 23rd to 26th June 2016

Bordeaux Wine Festival.

LJuneL

Focusing on wine and fine cuisine, it is located along the Garonne waterfront.

3rd - 5th June

La fête de la morue. The cod festival.

Yes, cod! At Bègles, (33130), the local cod festival celebrates, of course, its cod, and holds concerts, shows and conferences. Tel: +33 5 56 49 95 94. 4th to 5th June 2016

Weekend des “Grands Crus”

(a prestigious regional wine classification), highly-popular with all Bordeaux wine lovers. Tel: +33 5 56 51 91 91 or email: contact@ugcb.net. The wine tasting takes places during visits of chateaux and during special dinners. 10th June to 10th July

During the EURO 2016 competition, a gigantic Fan Zone,

entirely devoted to supporters, will be installed on the Place des Quinconces. There will be space enough for 60 000 spectators! 60 000 spectators! 19th June - 1st July

Le Messie. The Messiah.

Ballet, choir and orchestre at the Grand Theatre

30th June

Garorock Festival. Muse en concert.

LJulyL Throughout the month. Sport & Dancing on the waterfront: summer activities on the banks of the Garonne River 2nd July

Quarter-final of the EURO 2016 at the New Stadium. 14th July

National day of France. 21st - 23rd July

A three day jumble sale along Bordeaux’s main streets.

700 traders set up their stalls on the rue Saint-Catherine, rue Porte Dijeaux and rue des Remparts.

LAugustL 5th - 7th August Reggae Sun Ska Festival,

the largest Reggae festival in Europe, on the university campus in Pessac, Talence, and Gradignan. Tickets available online. For info call: +33 5 56 69 10 30

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LSeptemberL 10th September

Fancy-dress Médoc Marathon on the theme "Fairytales and Legends”.

Departure from Pauillac, runners pass through beautiful vineyards and castles before returning to Pauillac. 23 bands encourage the participants along the way as well as 23 different wine-makers who offer outside wine tasting! Oysters and rib steaks also available! Inscription online. Tel: +33 5 56 59 17 20 16th - 18th September

Latin music festival.

A weekend dedicated to dance, music and sensuality at the Rocher du Palmer at Cenon. Tickets: http://lerocherde palmer.fr/billetterie/ Address: 1 Rue Aristide Briand 33152 Cenon 17th - 18th September

2 days to celebrate Bordeaux’s patrimony.

Special sites, often closed to the public, are opened and all is free or at reduced tariffs! 17th - 18th September 17th - 18th September

Meeting international d’épreuves combinées. International Combined Events meet,

involving the world's best athletes in Talence. Tel : +33 5 56 04 39 36. For bookings and info: 231 avenue de Thouars 33400. 30th September - 2nd October

Bon Goût d’Aquitaine. Huge market.

On the right of the river Garonne, in the Bastide area, first-class producers present their best quality products and the know-how behind them.

WHAT’S HOT 1 Walk, talk and EAT with “Miam”

Discover Bordeaux’s gastronomy on a tour run by Sylvie Berteaux inspired by her travels to Istanbul. In a sociable, warm atmosphere, walk through the popular neighbourhoods of St.Michel, St.Pierre, le Bacalan… meet the local baker and eat some of his hot bread accompanied by a coffee or a hot chocolate, later on taste some truffles, oysters, snails, tripe… rendezvous on her website to book! No purchase obligatory! http://miam-bordeaux.fr

2 Defy the laws of gravity on an airbus A310 AirZeroG

With a boarding pass onto the airbus A310 you are entitled to 4.5 minutes of weightlessness. Also included: lunch and a talk with NASA astronaut Jean-François Clervoy who has been on three scientific space missions. The price of discovering what it is like to walk on the moon is 6000 euros. 230 passengers discovered weightlessness in 2015 with this unique company that is based in Merignac. Purchase your tickets online. http://www.airzerog.com/fr/reserver-votrevol/reservation.html

3 Discover Saint-Emilion on a Harley-Davidson!

If you want to discover Saint-Emilion’s vineyards in style, hop on a Harley-Davidson for an hour ride! This activity is proposed by the TourOchâteau team and finishes in a wine-making domaine where you will taste a Grand Cru Classé or a 1er Grand Cru Classé. Call +33 (0)7 64 09 10 07 to reserve. http://www.saint-emilion tourisme.com/uk/ 3-what-to-do/49-new-in-2016/245-exclusiveescapade-with-harley-davidson.html

Practical information For more information on any of these activities, call Bordeaux’s tourism office on +33 (0)5 56 00 66 00 or go to 12 Cours du 30 Juillet, 33000. The

4 Bordeaux’s Nocturnal Marathon On 9th April, a full marathon, half marathon and relay marathon take place through the heart of Bordeaux’s historic centre, vineyards, chateaux and wineries. Nearly 18,000 runners took part last year! It is the only marathon in France which takes place by night. If that all sounds a little exhausting to you, take advantage, on foot, of the monu ments that will be specially lit: the Porte Cailhau, grosse cloche and the Saint Michel church spire. http://www.marathondebordeauxmetro pole.com/fr/la-course/presentation/

5 Espace Chute Libre at La Réole How about seeing Bordeaux and its environs from a different perspective? For example, from up above? Parachute! And for the professionals, try the wingsuit! For more information contact the Espace Chute Libre at La Réole, 35 minutes from Bordeaux. Call +33 (0)6 12 44 56 62 to reserve. http://espace-chutelibre.com

6 Arcachon Bay Depending on your energy levels, at this beautiful spot in Bordeaux you can hire a jet ski, flyboard, kayak, stand-up paddle… or just chill out on a boat and take in the surroundings. The Dune of Pyla, the highest sand dune in Europe, and the Cap Ferret, the headland which separates the Atlantic Ocean from Arcachon Bay, are unmissable if you are staying for the weekend. http://www.ladunedupilat.com

tourism office is located between the Grand Théâtre and the Quinconces Square. For the Opera, call +33 5 56 00 85 95. For the Rocher de Palmer call The box office on +33 (0)5 56 48 26 26 or go to Kiosque Culture Bordeaux on the Allées de Tourny.

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Located IN

a prime in the prestigious retail position

district ‘The Golden Triangle’,

this shopping center is an ideal place to go sightseeing and shopping in an outsantding architectural setting. The gallery includes a wide range of household equipment (Alexandre Turpault, Villeroy & Boch, Essix ...), lingerie (Eres, Chantal ThomaSs ...), fashion (Jonak), jewelery and accessories luxury (Tag HEUEr, Mont Blanc luxury luggage and French leather craft ...).

Carrefour Market (food supermarket) and a great toystore will satisfy both young and old. We offer a relaxing time of the French way of living with a delicatessen, fine patisserie (David) and a covered market open every day. Join us everyday from 10am to 7.30pm, a delivery service , duty-free and a parking is here to make it easier for you.

Place de Tourny

Place des Quinconces

Grand Théatre

Cours de l’Intendance

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◆ —— BORDEAUX RENAISSANCE —— ◆

Welcome to the Ball 2 NOLA D’ENIS

2016 is a year like no other and the city is pulling out all the stops. There’s the opening of La Cité du Vin, there’s the wine festival and of course, we’re hosting Eurofoot! Open your diaries and come on down! WELCOME TO THE NEW BORDEAUX. With a sleek tram system and the largest mirror of water in the world, a recently added bridge (or two, there’s another one coming soon downstream) and a couple of spankingnew award-winning ediﬁces — the 21st century has come to town. June sees the opening of the stunning new Cité du Vin, the only museum of its type in all the world — voted by Huff Post as: “amongst the 10 best inaugurations of 2016” - Bordeaux’s answer to The Guggenheim. June also sees the Fête du Vin; the quayside festival of the best of Bordeaux wine, bringing together wine makers and wine lovers, from the curious to the connoisseur, to celebrate the noble grape. The events are taking place in a city buzzing with renewed energy and joie de vivre. Even the gastronomy has a spring in its step - Bordeaux was recently voted as “One of the top 5 foodie cities in Europe” by The Luxury Travel Blog.

Fireworks, over the old-stoned bridge. PHOTO GUILLAUME BONNAUD

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Stéphan Delaux, deputy mayor of Bordeaux and Anthony Lau, CEO Hong Kong Tourism Board. PHOTO GUILLAUME BONNAUD

Town in France,' and L’institut CSA found that Bordeaux was ‘The city most French people would like to live in’. Then there’s the sport. Bordeaux’s a sporty place. There are urban spaces dedicated to sports of every kind and the quays throng with joggers, cyclists and skaters. In June, the town that was voted as “One of the top 10 cycling cities in the world’ by cabinet Copenhagenenize, is going to be renowned for another sport, playing host to Eurofoot in the new stadium that has also received an accolade as “Sporting Structure of the Year” by archdaily.com. Jean-Louis Triaud, president of the Girondins football team. PHOTO THIERRY DAVID

Luxury has become a Bordeaux by-word. Property magnate Michel Ohayon is a vanguard of the new Bordeaux. The owner of The Grand Hotel, Ohayon has recently bought the empty Virgin building on Place Gambetta, with plans to build a luxury hotel over 5 ﬂoors including 3 bars, a brasserie and a boutique. The town is living up to recent accolades. Named by The Guardian as one of the best places to go on holiday in 2016, and as a ‘must see for 2016’ by The New York times, Bordeaux may be a UNESCO world heritage site, but the city knows how to throw a party. Which may also be one of the reasons the French site, Merci Alfred named Bordeaux as ‘The Coolest

Jean-Louis Triaud, the emblematic President of the Girondins Bordeaux football team is delighted to be playing host to Eurofoot this year, putting the town under the world’s sporting spotlight. Stéphan Delaux, deputy mayor of Bordeaux and the man in charge of Tourism is justly proud of the city’s meta-morphosis, especially in sectors such as oenotourism which was undeveloped a few years ago and is now one of the lifebloods of the city and in the regeneration of the banks of the Garonne where the natural environment has been nurtured to provide a welcome contrast to the urban landscape. There’s something for everyone in Bordeaux this summer. Welcome to the party!

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PHOTO GUILLAUME BONNAUD

The Cité du Vin: “It represents joie de vivre, which is what life is all about” (Sylvie Cazes) The avant garde museum that isn’t like any other is opening in June. Here’s the lowdown: a swirling glass of claret or an echo of the bend in the river — everyone has a different idea as to what it looks like, but one thing is for certain: it doesn't look quite like anything else. The Cité du Vin sets out to talk about wine in the truly international sense. The high tech museum with a theme park feel is devoted to global wine culture, and designed to showcase wine across the world; it’s unique and it’s unmissable. There are no straight lines, the wooden structure is clad with iridescent panels which shimmer with gold, ensconced in a skirt of eco-friendly landscaped gardens on the banks of the Garonne. The stunning architecture is just a start. (The bold design by architects XTU won the international competition for the project after having made a shortlist of ﬁve impressive designs.)

Work started in 2013 when mayor Alain Juppé laid the ﬁrst cornerstone and the Cité will opens its doors in June. 450,000 people are expected to pass through the doors each year. The interior is equally impressive (designed by Casson Mann who are known for their work at the Victoria and Albert museum and Imperial War museum in London). Prepare to be dazzled — hi-tech is the name of the game here; the museum uses a multitude of platforms and workshops using devices, such as 3D imaging. As you walk around the complex, personal digital guides detect your position to trigger the multimedia content, which is available in 8 languages. There are also specially designed multimedia programmes for children — suitably high tech to keep nimble minds and tactile hands amused whilst learning. The immersive, multi-sensory permanent tour is at the heart of the Cité and features 20 different themed spaces, the majority of which are interactive. The tour is an invitation to a voyage of discovery of the world of wine, through changing times and cultures, challenging how we look at wine.

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Casson Mann designed the interior of the Cité du vin. PHOTO D.R.

Exhibits include E-vines, a wall of model vines, from which dangle a series of tablet sized touch screens, each one representing a grape variety. Visitors use the screens to ﬁnd out about the grapes, where they are grown, their history and their cultivation, bringing thousands of years of history to light at the swipe of a hand.

adventures and food and wine workshops. One of the tasting labs is an interactive multi-sensory space — the ﬁrst of its kind. Visitors will be completely immersed in a 360° barrage of light, sound and aroma — for a truly unique multidimensional tasting experience. There are also educational spaces which run sessions for younger visitors.

In Tour of the World’s Vineyards, there’s breathtaking footage shot from a helicopter for an all-immersion experience which takes you hovering over the planet’s vineyards.

It’s against the rules to drink wine in a museum in France luckily the (non-museum) upper ﬂoors hold several tippling options, from a snack bar to ﬁne dining — local chef Nicolas Lascombes from Brasserie Bordelaise will be in charge of the gastronomic restaurant, Le 7.

There’s even an exhibit celebrating the hangover - The Chair of Despair - where you can smugly sit and listen to poets and artists bemoaning the morning after the night before… There’s also an auditorium and 3 tasting laboratories. Workshops include wine tasting, multi sensory activities, tasting

Latitude 20 (say it in French to hear the pun) sells wines from all over the world, including Bali, India and Tahiti. There is also La Cave, which sells exceptional wines with over 800 references from 80 countries.

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Philippe Massol, director of the Cité du vin.

Sylvie Cazes, leads the project from its first days. PHOTO ARCHIVES THIBAUD MORITZ

PHOTO ARCHIVES STEPHANE LARTIGUE

Sylvie Cazes has been the driving force behind the Cité du Vin, believing in the project long before wine tourism became a Bordelais byword. She has steered it from conception to completion, having joined the project in 2009. The Cité is directed by Philippe Massol. Mme Cazes is a redoubtable figure in the Bordeaux wine world. The first woman to hold the post of President of the highly prestigious Union of Bordeaux Grands Cru, she’s owner of Chateau Chauvin, a grand cru classé estate in SaintEmilion, director of luxury wine tourism agency Bordeaux Saveurs, owner of the Chapon Fin restaurant and President of the Foundation for the Culture and Civilisation of Wine and of the Friends of the Cité du Vin; She was intrigued by the project from the start. “It was unique. We wanted a central meeting point for the culture of wine — the multidimensional aspect of wine. We realised it didn’t exist anywhere else and we wanted, above all, to create it. Something brand new and very 21c that took into account everything that had gone before, here and all over the world, not just the tradition but with a view to the future. I found that very exciting.”

The early ideas never got off the ground, but when Sylvie Cazes came along things were starting to change and wine tourism was becoming more and more important. It changed how people saw the project, and the town was also changing around this time. The project became viable and worth exploring further — the mayor of Bordeaux Alain Juppé actually went into the vineyards and talked to winemakers to ﬁnd out what the consensus was. It was put to a jury and it was voted in. “We were adamant that we wanted something alive, futuristic and resolutely modern. The word museum in French tends to represent something stolid and old fashioned, we wanted something quite different. We looked at lots of models but we knew we wanted a living museum and we based it on that idea” said Mme Cazes on the concept behind the museum. But it goes much further than that. “The idea of sharing food and wine, of spending time together, the link between people and cultures, it’s international and it’s all there, in our pasts and in the future. The Cité du vin is about that and so much more”. And voilà! The Cité opens its doors to the world this June. It’s all there; a stunningly beautiful, hi-tech museum with an international take on a very French joie de vivre, poised on the banks of the Garonne - don’t miss it!

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Bordeaux wine festival 2014: the crowd on the qways PHOTO GUILLAUME BONNAUD

Bordeaux Fête le Vin 2016: The perfect summer party! The Bordeaux wine festival is the perfect summer party: a gorgeous location with great wine, made with passion, served with delight to be enjoyed with friends. It fits in with the Bordeaux ethos that wine is all about sharing — from the winemakers sharing their know-how, to the groups of all ages sharing together the experience that is the Bordeaux wine festival. The setting is wonderful on the banks of the Garonne, the quays on one side and the gardens on the other, with boats on the river joining in the celebrations. This town talks wine, thinks wine and shares wine even more than usual. It’s decorous without being sedate and joyful without being raucous. Welcome to Bordeaux fête le vin 2016. This year sees the 10th anniversary of the festival. June is going

to be a spectacular month. The festival coincides with Eurofoot 2016 and the opening of the Cité du Vin. To celebrate the momentous occasion, the city has invited 10 guests-cities of honour to the wine festival. The visiting cities are: Bilbao, Cape Town. Mainz, Mendoza, Porto, San Francisco, Valparaiso, Hong Kong, Quebec and Brussels. Wooden stands are laid out along over a 2 kilometers stretch on the quays. For the first time this year, some of the stands have roof terraces - if you’re lucky enough to be invited on the roof you’ll have glorious views over the Garonne. Just the place to sip that glass of chilled Graves. Inside the first section along the river are the wine makers themselves, grouped together appellation or type of wine. In the middle stretch is everything to do with wine, including the Bordeaux wine school where you can take a short tasting class. At the far end, the food village serves up tasty dishes and the tourism section provides plenty of ideas for vineyard visits. Do as the French do, take your time, search out the wines that

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Tasting with the wine school during Bordeaux wine festival. PHOTO GUILLAUME BONNAUD

you might not normally try and take the opportunity to chat with winemakers who are delighted to share their wines and their knowledge. The French almost always eat with wine, even if it’s just charcuterie or good quality bread; picnics on the quayside are standard practice.

THE WINE FESTIVAL GUIDE

There will be an overlap with Eurofoot 2016 as Bordeaux hosts both the wine festival and several matches. If you’d like more information about Eurofoot or to take part in the Eurofoot activities, check out the the Fanzone on Place des Quinconces.

Where: On the quays between the Bourse Maritime and the pont de pierre. When: 23 - 26 June 2016 from 11am to 23.30 (when the ﬁreworks begin). How: Buy a card online or on the day. Each card comes with coupons for 13 taster glasses of wine, selected offers on magazines, the Sud Ouest and partners, a glass holder and an engraved glass. There is a euro deposit on each card, refunded with the card at the end of the event. Prices: 15€ + 1€ deposit for cards booked online 20€ + 1€ deposit for cards booked on the door

There are nightly sound and light shows so ﬁnd a good spot to sit before nightfall. The shows are truly wonderful and very popular. The shows are followed by ﬁreworks!

Further information available online: http://www.bordeaux-wine-festival.com Or from the tourist office.

In what has now become a tradition, the sailing ship The Belem is in harbour during the festival. She celebrates her 120th anniversary this year. Visits to be announced.

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ILLUSTRATION © UEFA EURO206 FRANCE

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Super Victor is the Euro 2016 mascot.

Vibrate for Eurofoot 2016! Football is coming to town! It’s impossible not to get caught up in the excitement of Eurofoot 2016. And with an award winning, brand-new 42000 seats stadium, Bordeaux is one of the best venues for spectators and the city has something for everyone, from the ardent supporter to the youngest fan. Bordeaux will host five matches, including a quarter final: Saturday 11 June at 6.00pm: Wales vs Slovakia Tuesday 14 June at 6.00pm: Austria vs Hungary Saturday 18 June at 3.00pm: Belgium vs Ireland Tuesday 21 June at 9.00pm: Croatia vs Spain Saturday 2 July at 9.00pm: Quarter final to be announced

Atmosphere fans of the team of France in Bordeaux. PHOTO ARCHIVES THIERRY DAVID

Eight nations will play in Bordeaux with teams taken from groups B, D, E and F. Watch out for the Spanish and Irish matches - there’s a fair smattering of both communities here in Bordeaux! Bordeaux’s stadium is one of 10 participating in Eurofoot. And like the stadiums in Lille, Nice and Lyon, it was built with Eurofoot in mind. Here the city centre will also play a major role in the festivities, and even people without tickets will be able to watch the matches on giant screens and join in the fun. Eurofoot, here we come!

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Antoine Grizmann will be one of the french team leaders. PHOTO QUENTIN SALINIER

To welcome supporters from all over the world, the superb and well thought out ‘Fanzone’ will be set up on Place de Quinconces, throughout the competition, with something for everyone. Look out for the mascot - Super Victor! With a capacity of 60,000, the Bordeaux Fanzone is one of the largest amongst the 10 host cities for EURO 2016. All 51 matches will be displayed on giant screens measur-ing 116m2. The same screens were enormously popular with the fans gathered in 2009 to watch the Girondins of Bordeaux win the European championship in front of a crowd of 80,000.

Entry to the Fanzone is free and open every day during Eurofoot. It will celebrate all things football, with events throughout the competition and 91 animations around a theme planned by the city of Bordeaux to keep fans of all ages entertained between matches. Female football fans are not forgotten with special events programmed for the fairer sex. A programme of concerts has been organised for days when there are no matches, and of course there’s the city of Bordeaux to explore with its lively English and Irish pubs screening the matches. There will also be refreshments available in the Fanzone.

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The Atlantic Matmut Stadium is the sporting structure of the year. PHOTO QUENTIN SALINIER

The Red Devils, the Belgian football team, will have their home camp in Bordeaux and will be staying at the hotel Golf de Medoc Resort throughout the competition. A decision no doubt inﬂuenced by their trainer Marc Wilmots who knows the region well, having played for Bordeaux in 2000- 2001. They will be training in Haillan and will hold their public sessions at the Chaban Delmas stadium in Bordeaux. Further information available at Fanzone or from the Tourist office. Bordeaux Tourist Office: 12 Cours du 30 Juillet, 33000 Bordeaux Tel: +33 (0)5 56 00 66 00 http://www.bordeaux-tourisme.com

Where it’s at : The Stade de Bordeaux “Sporting Structure of the Year” voted Archdaily.com. This award winning stadium was specially built for Eurofoot and has rapidly become a focal point on the Bordeaux sport’s scene. It was designed with 3 possible interchangable ground and seating configurations for football, rugby and concerts. The new stadium replaces Stade Chaban Delmas as home to the Girondin football team. The official opening match was between Bordeaux and Montpellier (2-1). Huzzah! It comes into Eurofoot with an impressive bang - hosting 5 matches in the 2016 competition - including a quarter final. Designed by Herzog and De Meuron, the first stone was laid in April 2013 and the stadium was inaugurated in May 2015.

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Team Belgium in training at Haillan. PHOTO ARCHIVES THIERRY DAVID

event. Take the tram if possible to avoid trafﬁc snarls, and consider taking the Line B to Berges de la Garonne (a half an hour walk but less crowded than the closer station). Here are some statistics on the impressive XXL stadium: 24 kilometers of bleachers, 42 000 seats (3 000 busi-ness seats and 1 000 VIP seats; 125 disabled seats), 12 000 tonnes of metal beams (twice the weight of the Eif-fel Tower!). The size of the stadium is 4.6 hectares and 18,6 hectares of the grounds. There are 1 hectare of turf, 8 500 parking spaces, 19 catering outlets, 2 giant screens and 350 smaller screens. It was previously known as the ‘Nouveau Stade de Bordeaux’ before being renamed Matmut Atlantique. During Eurofoot it will be referred to as Stade de Bordeaux - no advertising or promotional names are permitted. It’s hard to miss. The award winning structure was de-signed to “project elegance, openness and lightness” with an unusual lofty roof supported by metal stalks, inspired by the nearby forests of Les Landes. Elegant by day and beautifully lit by night, it has taken its place as Bordeaux Nouveaux landmark. If you’re lucky enough to have tickets to a match, get there early. The activities village is open 2.5 hours before the start of an event and includes a fan zone and food trucks. Gates to the main stadium open an hour and a half before the start of an

How to get there: By tram - Line C to Parc des Expositions or Line B to Berges de la Garonne (a half an hour walk but less crowded than the closer station). By car: The stadium is at Bordeaux Lac, sign posted from the rocade. Address: Cours Jules Ladoumegue, 33300 Bordeaux Useful websites: http://www.matmut-atlantique.com http://fr.uefa.com/uefaeuro-ﬁnals/hosts/france/ city=1272/ index.html

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Visiting Bordeaux by boat from a Garonne view. PHOTO ARCHIVES QUENTIN SALINIER

◆ —— CRUISE —— ◆

Bordeaux, a view from its iconic river 2 SUZANNE NELSON

Bordeaux’s fortuitous location on the Garonne river rests at the heart of its history. LONG CONSIDERED A ‘SLEEPING BEAUTY’ by its residents, today Bordeaux shines as a small but beautiful, cosmopolitan city. An important part of the city’s renaissance has been the revitalisation of the river. Historically the river was crucial to the flow and exchange of goods, communication and people. With modern transportation, the river lost its purpose. Today the tide has been reversed. Cruise ships were the first to rediscover Bordeaux’s elegant and picturesque waterfront. Within a few years Bordeaux has become a fashionable destination. In 2015, 35 cruise ships anchored in Bordeaux, bringing 20,000 visitors. More than 50 will arrive in 2016.

But it’s river cruising that has really transformed the way visitors explore the city and region. Geographically, a river departure from Bordeaux gives visitors the opportunity to travel on the Garonne river, the Dordogne river and the Gironde estuary. And the success of Bordeaux’s cruise scene means that there’s an option for every budget and schedule. Whether for an hour, an afternoon, a day or a week, taking to the water provides an exciting and relaxing way to visit the city and its surroundings. To make organising your visit easier, the Bordeaux Tourist Office launched a website dedicated for cruises. Contact: www.cruise-bordeaux.com

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Bordeaux port of call. PHOTO ARCHIVES FABIEN COTTEREAU

IF YOU HAVE AN HOUR OR TWO…. Hop aboard the Sardane for Apéro Bord’o, a wine tasting cruise that lasts 90 minutes, giving you a enchanting view of Bordeaux’s UNESCO World Heritage waterfront while enjoying the region’s terrific wines. The ship leaves at 18:45 from Bordeaux’s Pont d’Honneur, Quai Richelieu, Thursday, Friday and Saturday, June 2 - October 1. You’ll sail past the 18th century facades of Bordeaux’s Port de la Lune to Lormont and back. The same company also offers 3-hour lunch and dinner cruises on the Sicambre, a restored flat-bottomed ferry which has been turned into a restaurant with table service.They are specialized in river cruises that focus on wine, and offer itineraries that also stop at the estuary islands. Contact: http://croisere-bordeaux.com, Tel: +33 (0)5 56 39 27 66

Viking Forseti. PHOTO ARCHIVES GUILLAUME BONNAUD

Another wonderful way to experience Bordeaux’s unique waterfront is a 90-minute cruise on the Aquitaina or Burdigala. You’ll pass under seven bridges and enjoy Bordeaux’s famous, historic facades and natural surroundings. Contact: croisieresburdigala.fr, Tel: +33 (0)5 56 49 36 88 IF YOU LIKE TO CYCLE… The popular barge and bike trip has arrived in Bordeaux! Aboard the MS Bordeaux, Bike and Boat Tours offers weeklong trips around the region on the Dordogne, Garonne and Gironde Rivers. This floating hotel caters to wine enthusiasts who would like to enjoy a leisurely cycle in the region’s exceptional vineyard landscape. Of course, there is much more to

Sicambre. PHOTO ARCHIVES D.R.

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Bordeaux than fine wines. There are magnificent chateaux and picturesque villages, and stunning vistas, making this an ideal cycling destination. And then there is the city of Bordeaux itself: one of the most bike-friendly cities in France. The daily cycling routes run 30-50 km, either with a guide or self-guided. Contact: Tel: +33 (0)9 53 05 80 34, www.boatbiketours.com or www.aquitaine-cruises.com

Queyries, just across from Place des Quinconces. The ship can accommodate up to 150 passengers and sails to Cadaujac, Cadillac, Libourne, Pauillac, Bourg, Blaye… The company offers wine tasting cruises, live music and cruises with stops for visiting fabulous vineyards and chateaux. Contact: http://croisieres.marcopolo-bordeaux.com Croisières Burdigala has four boats based in Bordeaux available for hire. They navigate the Garonne, Dordogne and Gironde on a custom-made itinerary. The company also runs a ‘bateau mouche’ guided cruise in July and August for individuals. Their boats include: l’Aquitania (150 people), Burdigala (74 people) the boat taxi Clapotine (17 people) and the VIP yacht Léopard d'Aquitaine (12 people). Contact: croisieresburdigala@orange.fr, Tel: +33 (0)5 56 49 36 88, croisieresburdigala.fr

The Marco Polo was built in Sweden in the 1960s and designed for off-shore cruising.

IF YOU’D LIKE TO ENJOY A PRIVATE DAY OR EVENING CRUISE… Increasingly, families, groups of friends and businesses are choosing to hire a boat to mark an occasion. There are a couple of options. The Marco Polo was built in Sweden in the 1960s and designed for off-shore cruising. Composed of two large lounges, a new bar and a teak desk, she is both charming and beautiful. She’s moored at the the Embarcadère Montesquieu, Quai de

Marco Polo. PHOTO ARCHIVES LAURENT THEILLET

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Paddling boarding on the Garonne. PHOTO ARCHIVES QUENTIN SALINIER

IF YOU FEEL LIKE PADDLING… While you won’t see any white water, the Garonne’s swift currents will challenge paddlers and you’ll experience the contrast of Bordeaux’s historic waterfront and natural surroundings. The trip run by Bordeaux Canoe follows a descent from Bègles to Bordeaux in an open kayak (canoë-kayak). Nature, wildlife, traditional fishing shacks on stilts, 18th century facades, majestic bridges, a stop in city centre at the Ponton d’Honneur and the Miroir d’Eau. Paddle boarding is also offered. Kayak tours last 1 1/2 - 2 1/4 hours. Contact: contact@bordeauxcanoe.com, Tel: +33(0)6 50 46 10 23, www.bordeauxcanoe.com The Medoc port of Pauillac at sunset. PHOTO ARCHIVES LAURENT THEILLET

IF YOU HAVE A WEEK… A week leaves ample time to navigate the three rivers, to explore the vineyards and historic towns. These longer river cruises dock at many of the same small ports along the Dordogne, Garonne and Gironde rivers, but each offers something a little different. This is a great way to arrive in Blaye to visit the 17th century citadel - a UNESCO World Heritage Site – which was built by famous military engineer Major Vauban, or the Port of Pauillac, a gateway to the

historic chateaux of the Medoc. To the south, the ships sail to Sauternes and the fortified town of Cadillac, or follow the Dordogne to the market town of Libourne and the medieval wine village of Saint Emilion which is surrounded by vineyards dating back to Roman times. AmaWaterways also offers a 13-day trip that includes Paris and the Loire Valley and a 7-night cruise from Bordeaux on the AmaDolce. Contact: www.amawaterways.com

“Nature, wildlife, traditional fishing shacks on stilts...”

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MS Princesse d'Aquitaine. PHOTOS ARCHIVE THIERRY DAVID

CroisiEurope was the first river cruise company to arrive in Bordeaux. They have two ships here, the MS Cyrano de Bergerac and MS Princesse d’Aquitaine, and offer 5-8 day cruises. www.croisieurope.com

Scenic offers 8-11 day Bordeaux cruises as well as cruises that combine with trips to Paris or Madrid. Contact: www.scenic.com.au Uniworld’s offers an 8-day luxury cruise on the River Royale, with wine tastings in Saint Emilion and the Médoc, and a memorable exploration of the river’s peaceful beauty. Contact: www.uniworld.com

PHOTO ARCHIVES THIBAUD MORITZ

Viking River Cruises offers 8-day voyages focusing on three UNESCO World Heritage Sites, famous wine appellations, wine tastings and wine & food pairing classes. www.vikingrivercruises.com IF YOU’D LIKE TO SAIL THE COAST AND THE RIVER… The Corinthian is a small cruise ship owned by Grand Circle Travel’, and it sails coastal France and Spain. Two of its itineraries include Bordeaux, sailing up the Gironde estuary from the Atlantic, allowing time to explore Bordeaux’s world heritage sites, vineyards, and chateaux. Trips run 13 - 17 days. Contact: www.gct.com

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➤

Darwin, on the right hand side of the Garonne. PHOTO THIERRY DAVID

➤

Jean-François and Françoise Janoueix.

The Darricau couple test their products.

PHOTO MICHELLE DE LA ROSA LEWIS

➤

PHOTO LAURENT THEILLET

Two generations of the Gaillac family.

➤

PHOTO MICHELLE DE LA ROSA LEWIS

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◆ —— SAGA —— ◆

Generation after generation 2 MICHELLE DE LA ROSA LEWIS

You may have heard of Bordeaux’s transformation during the past decade, however, certain families have witnessed the city’s development over generations. Whether it be via wine, chocolate, hotel or supermarkets, these families all have in common their love for and dedication to Bordeaux.

◆ The Janoueix and their wine

“We are a family”, boasts Jean-François Janoueix pointing to photos of his family in the immaculate wine warehouse of Haute Sarpe in Saint Christophe des Bardes. His parents, his wife, their three children and their seven grand-children are immortalised in every holding amongst photos of politicians and international businessmen and women. “Play hard, work hard”, that’s his motto. Despite his 70 years, Jean-François radiates a love of life and talks passionately about his harvests when he manages to round up 150 grapepickers from all corners of the world. One of the grape-pickers in particular caught this man’s attention several years back: Françoise “my grape-picker”, he says with a broad smile on his face. Together they developed the estate and founded a family. Now, “we have several properties, so, if we argue, we can each retreat to our own castle!” says Françoise. The Janoueix family business was originally conceived in 1898 and with each generation it has expanded. One of their children lives permanently in London where he deals with the most prestigious restaurants. “All of our children are businessmen”, Françoise says, her voice some what sad, “the price of the vine has become so expensive and heritages have become difficult. I am sure there will be rivalry and jealousy. It’s inevitable”. Jean Francois adds : “In the winery sector, there are not many family businesses left. Big multinational companies have eaten them up. Now you can’t produce 100,000 bottles, you have to produce 500,000 bottles… but the important thing is that we are here.

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◆ Darricau and their chocolate

Imagine a luxury French version of Willy Wonka’s chocolate factory… that is what the maison Darricau ressembles at Gambetta Square in Bordeaux’s historic center. You enter this dainty boutique and are mesmerised by the different inventions that fill the shelves. Michel Garrigue, the current owner, points to some chocolate mice on the counter, “these were made by my son”, he proudly states, “and that over there, (the huge round chocolate circle decorated as if there were a fireworks show taking place) was designed by him for our 100th anniversary last year”. Michel and his wife Laurence have been working together for 25 years: “there is a great deal of complementarity, a great deal of communication and a great deal of trust.” Their work doesn’t stop at closing time once the door has been locked. Their chocolate creations are often a topic of discussion at home and at the weekends. But this does not seem problematic. Laughing, Michel adds: “What would we talk about if it not work! Maybe we wouldn’t talk at all!” In this family business, it was never certain that Clément, 24 years old, would take up the business. “When he announced last year that he wanted to integrate the firm, we were very surprised yet happy that the business will run through another generation”, says Michel. Clement, who boasts his French moustache adds: “It is cool working with my dad. We laugh a lot and we often work just the two of us. I like it”.

➤ PHOTO THIERRY DAVID

Like father, like son at Bordeaux’s chocolate factory. PHOTO MICHELLE DE LA ROSA LEWIS

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◆ Gaillac and their 5 star hotel

“If we are still together after 28 years, it means things must have not gone too badly for us!” says Thierry sending the other family members laughing. All of the members of the Gaillac family, inlaws included, have interrupted their busy schedule in order to introduce themselves. Claudette and Abel are the founders of the hotel. Now retired, they live in Arcachon. They make sure however that they are consistently updated with the latest news on the hotel, despite the distance. All the key positions in the hotel are occupied by family members: Carole is the head housekeeper, Veronique is the head waitress and Jean-Francois, Veronique’s husband, is the head chef. “All being members of the same family allows for decision making to be rather rapid”, says Anne. Thierry explains how, back in the 90s, the hotel Burdigala was one of the sole luxury hotels in the city. “Bordeaux’s notoriety has since developed enormously! Obviously competition developed and we had to step up our game. In summer 2011 we carried out a huge renovation and we franchised with MGallery, a hotel label very “haut de gamme.”” “Summer 2011 was a big family event,” explains Anne. “The meeting room was turned upside down to sell all of the old furniture”. Everyone smiles at the memory recalling how quickly everything had disappeared, only by word of mouth. “No publicity whatsoever!” Everyone got their hands dirty and they all

“Anual moments like that motivate us and change our daily routines” stuck together. Thierry points out that large Parisian hotels may take two or three years to completely renovate where as they only had two or three months. “We had to lift the mattresses, start the cleaning, get everything old out and bring everything new in…” The relief and gratification came only some months laters, once the pressure had been lifted. The big renovation was not the only project in sight for the second generation of Gaillacs: they invested in another hotel, this time in Pau, also belonging to the MGallery label. Claudette speaks of pure happiness when she talks of her children taking up the family business. “I would have liked my children to work and have a successful career away from hospitality trade”, she confesses. “The decision for us to take over the family business was obvious for our generation… but it is not yet clear for the following one,” clarifies Thierry. Anne adds that she does not wish to impose the decision upon her children: “it comes down to a life-style choice… the customer is always king, and you must have this always in mind”. The Gaillac family also makes it clear that they work on a daily basis with non-family members in the business. Their success is

The hotel Burdigala is located a step away from Gambetta square. PHOTO MICHELLE DE LA ROSA LEWIS

also due to the hard work of their employees, “it is like a big family and we are all quite close”. 2016 is going to bring some interesting events… the EUROFOOT will be an exciting time. “Anual moments like that motivate us and change our daily routines” says Anne. The family believes that Bordeaux’s attractiveness for tourists in growing and their clientele is less business orientated and more leisure focused than before. They receive more foreigners than French tourists: Americans, Australians, Russians, Brazilians, Chinese, English and Spanish are amongst their top clients. One of which they are particular proud of is Zinedine Zidane: “He spent the night of his wedding here!”.

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Philippe Barre. PHOTO MICHELLE DE LA ROSA LEWIS

◆ Barre and his revolution

In 2005 Philippe Barre received almost 1.8 million euros thanks to the shares his parents had given him in their businesses many years before. His mother and father owned two Leclerc supermarkets, one in Arcachon and the other in Sainte-Eulalie, as well as a wine house on the river Garonne. “I do not think that I deserved to use this money for my personal pleasure when I had not worked hard for it,” confesses Mr Barre. Coincidently, his parents were selling up their business at the same time that he was looking for a new premises for his small entreprise called Inoxia. Born in Bordeaux, he had long time realised that it was difficult to set up projets dedicated to the environment and to alternative business methods. “My parents did not agree with my idea. My father did not agree at all. My mother thought I had silly ideas, like a young child. My mother wanted me to take over the supermarkets. My father didn’t. I was, however, interested in buying the wine house on the river Garonne which has been in my family for the last 150 years. But my dad sold up. He refused my proposal.” The frustration on Philippe’s face show that the affair is not concluded. “To know where one is going, you have to know where one comes from”. Philippe quotes this african proverb to explain

the importance of Bordeaux to him and his business. He explains that Darwin, the immense coworking space, was established purposely on the right hand side of the river and not on the left- where the historic centre is. “I am a kid from the right hand side of the river Garonne. I am very attached to my roots. Even though I love to discover and learn about new cultures”. In Darwin this multicultural feel is omnipresent. Its layout, decoration and philosophy are a fusion of ideas. Berlin, Lisbon, New York, San Francisco, Bilbao… many cities in different countries have inspired the creation of this incredible space. Just like his parents, Mr Barre’s entreprise started small and ended big. “My parents started with a small grocery. They were part of the post-war retail and distribution adventure. This was a good thing because everything was made more accessible. Then in the 70s the modele was perverted”. Philippe was also largely influenced by his grand parents. In Darwin, there is not a feeling of hierarchy or authority but of serious creativity and humbleness. “My grand parents used to eat at the same table as their employees. It is important not to create distance between people and if we have a mutual respect, we can work with our friends or family members”.

“To know where one is going, you have to know where one comes from”

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◆ —— PORTFOLIO —— ◆

Behind the scenes at the ballet 2 CAROLINE MATTHEWS 1 GUILLAUME BONNAUD

With a corps of almost 40 dancers, the Bordeaux ballet is recognized as one of the best in the country, performing 5 ballets per season, many of which are in the classical style. These shows are very popular with the local audience, resulting in some performances having a waiting list of over 400 people!

MOST REHEARSALS TAKE PLACE, NOT AT THE GRAND THEATRE, but at some off-site studios in the city. Here, première ballerina Vanessa Feuillatte performs a saut de chat for her role as Swanilda in the 2013 performance of Coppélia; the story of a girl who dresses up as a doll, to persuade its inventor – Dr Coppelius (played by Charles Jude, pictured right) - that it has come to life, in order to save her fiancé, Franz. Before arriving in Bordeaux as Directeur de la Danse in 1996, Charles Jude was one of the star ballet dancers at the Opera de Paris, where he worked closely with Rudolf Noureev.

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Charles Jude & Romain Mikhalev.

REHEARSALS START 6 WEEKS BEFORE OPENING NIGHT with dancers continuing to practice, even on days when they perform. The role of Franz was played by Romain Mikhalev, one of 2 star dancers of the corps. His coupé jeté as shown in this photo is during the character’s solo performance of Act II and is an example of the type of jump usually reserved for male

dancers, because of the required level of strength. Known for being very musically minded, Charles Jude’s choreography often requires dancers to coordinate their moves to particular notes of the musical score. For ballets of this scale, the dancers are accompanied by the Orchestre National Bordeaux Aquitaine.

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FOR A TYPICAL PRODUCTION, BALLERINAS will wear demipointe and pointe shoes, both of which are secured to the feet with ribbons and elastic, the latter offering greater support for moves which require dancers to be on the tip of their toes. Satin slippers are typically only worn for performances as they wear out quickly and it is not unknown for a dancer to use up to 15 pairs over the length of a production. As in the photo, many dancers wrap untreated cotton or wool around their toes to reduce chafing and blisters, although we were told by one ballerina that, ‘you only feel discomfort when you are not moving as the emotion and euphoria when you dance allows you to forget any pain.’

TAKEN DURING REHEARSALS FOR THE 2015 PRODUCTION of Swan Lake, this photo shows the 30 or so ‘swans’ who dance on stage together during Act II. Due to the feminine nature of the scene, it is normal for choreographer Charles Judd to enlist the help of his Maître de Ballet – Aurelia Schaeffer. This type of scene requires great precision as each of the ballerinas will

need to move in perfect synchrony. Although the focus is often on the étoile, première dancer or soliste who holds centre stage, those dancers who form the corps of the cast arguably have a more difficult role to play, as they may be required to remain on stage in character and holding certain poses for long periods.

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BACK AT THE GRAND THEATRE, costume preparations begin up to 6 weeks before a performance and vary in intensity, depending on whether the ballet is a new creation or based on a previous production. Dancers may have up to 3 fittings before the start of a production and once the show is underway, all costumes, except tutus which are more delicate, are washed and ironed after each performance. In addition to clothing, there is also a dedicated service for hair accessories and make-up. Before a show, 10 hair and make-up professionals are working backstage with over 40 dancers.

by the petit and grand â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;swansâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. It is normal for ballerinas to practice whilst wearing tutus as it habituates them to the fact that they cannot see their legs when they perform.

PHOTO FABIEN COTTEREAU

P RINCE S IEGFRIED (O LEG R OGACHEV ) AND O DETTE / O DILE (M IKA Y ONEYAMA ), 2 soliste dancers, hold the positions of demi pointe and arabesque respectively, surrounded

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THIS SCENE FROM THE 2012 PRODUCTION OF SLEEPING BEAUTY has the particularity of male dancer (Marc Emmanuel Zanoli) in a female role, that of the wicked fairy godmother Carabosse. It is not unusual for dancers to perform different parts from one show to the next. As well as keeping performers

motivated, it also reduces the amount of repetitive strain injuries. Carabosse is the only time in a Charles Jude production where a male dancer can perform the role normally assigned to a ballerina, and it requires them to wear specially designed pointe shoes.

Godmother Carabosse. PHOTO THIERRY DAVID

NOT

ALL THE BALLETS ARE

HOWEVER , as shown with the 2012 contemporary production entitled Gershwin Tempo. Choreographed by Joey McKneely to the score of “An American in Paris” and “Rhapsody in Blue”, the show was a new creation and featured the full ballet corps. Here, première ballerina Yumi Aizawa jumps a grand jeté in the role of French girl to Romain Mikhalev’s American boy. CLASSICAL

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The Labottière mansion reborn as the Institut Culturel Bernard Magrez. PHOTO D.R.

◆ —— THE INSTITUT CULTUREL BERNARD MAGREZ —— ◆

Like a small ‘Palazzo Grassi’ 2 SUZANNE NELSON

Art lovers compare it to the Villa Medici in Rome or the Palazzo Grassi in Venice. The Institut Culturel Bernard Magrez is a private foundation that exhibits contemporary and modern art, fosters new talent and hosts cultural events. THE INSTITUT CULTUREL IS THE BRAINCHILD OF BERNARD MAGREZ, one of France’s wealthiest men. Magrez amassed a fortune in the Bordeaux wine and spirits business, and collecting art is one of his passions. He owns dozens of vineyards including classiﬁed growth chateau wine estates, and in 2011 opened the

doors to the Institut. Located in a stunning 18th century mansion with splendid gardens in the heart of the city, the Institut is a vibrant voice in the world of contemporary and modern art. The Institut has many facets. It offers residencies for artists, nurturing young talent. “It became time for me to give back:

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Bernard Magrez. PHOTO LAURENT THEILLET

“Today, I’m the only judge of what I buy, I want to be swept away by an emotion, which then guides my desire to posses the artwork”

to give the opportunity and to promote young artists with talent, to give them the time and the means to accompany their projects while efﬁciently supporting the production of original art,” said Magrez. Their art is exhibited in the Galerie des Nouveaux Talents, open free to the public. In 2016, the Institut is running a competition for new artists, open to everyone. The Institut also hosts a series of ongoing cultural debates, attracting famous ﬁgures from the media, the arts and from public life, on par with other eminent venues in European capitals. Two of the series include Nuit du Savoir and Mardi Culturel. Topics and speakers change weekly, so check with the online calendar of events. On weekends, the Institut offers workshops focusing on an art technique around a particular work of art from the collection. At the same time, the Institut provides an elegant home to the permanent art collection and a backdrop for changing

exhibits. Daily guided visits are included in the price of the ticket. The permanent collection of some 200 works of contemporary and modern art reﬂects the personal taste of Mr. Magrez, and includes works from emerging artists as well as seminal modern masters like Andy Warhol’s Depardieu and Xavier Veilhan’s Alice. “I’ve collected bronzes, antique watches and then my taste for contemporary art took over. Today, I’m the only judge of what I buy, I want to be swept away by an emotion, which then guides my desire to posses the artwork,” said Magrez. “Thus I don’t have any advice and I don’t want any. On the other hand, I love to talk with the artists, the gallery owners and auctioneers. ”This year the Institut has curated a magniﬁcent Baccarat exhibition, Baccarat, cristal de légende, which runs from April 29 to September 27 and is an exceptional and rare exhibition of the excellence that has seduced the royal courts of

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The american street artist Jone One came at the Institut. PHOTO D.R.

The Claude Lévêque exhibition with this vintage car in the courtyard. PHOTO D.R.

Europe, Russia, the Middle East and Asia; a Baccarat chandelier forms part of the permanent collection at the Institut. The exhibit includes a selection of major pieces that represent the artistry and excellence of Baccarat. Some of the pieces were part of the retrospective held at the Petit Palais in Paris in 2014 celebrating the 250th year anniversary of Baccarat. The scenography is unique to the Bordeaux exhibit, imagined for its special setting. It’s a singular opportunity to experience the artistry of Baccarat in a setting that combines contemporary art with a historical national monument. The immense chandeliers are a feast for the eyes. The sumptuous dinner services commissioned for royal families are breathtaking in their beauty. The masterpieces include dazzling contemporary works as well as rare, historical pieces, demonstrate why Baccarat has triumphantly contributed to the decorative arts for over 250 years.

Exposition. PHOTO GUILLAUME BONNAUD

Institut Culturel Bernard Magrez Château Labottière 16, rue de Tivoli 33 000 Bordeaux www.institut-bernard-magrez.com contact@institut-bernard-magrez.com +33 5 56 81 72 77 29 avril – 27 septembre 2016 Open Friday to Monday from 13:00 to 18:00, and Tuesday 13:00 to 21:00 Tickets: 8€; reduced price 6€; free for children 12 and under and the ﬁrst Sunday of every month

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◆ —— MUSEUMS —— ◆

A Few of Our Favourite Things 2 SUZANNE NELSON 1 QUENTIN SALINIER

For a museum curator, choosing a favourite work of art is like choosing a favourite child - impossible! But with some persuasion, Bordeaux’s curators have made a selection that will surprise and inspire visitors. THE CITY’S MUSEUMS hold impressive collections of history and archaeology, ﬁne art, contemporary art and decorative art reﬂecting the wealth of this small, European city. Compared to the vast museums in other European cities, Bordeaux’s museums are intimate and located within walking distance of one

another. They prove once again, that extraordinary things often come in small doses. Access to the permanent collections and exhibitions is free with the Bordeaux Metropole City Pass.

Fond Marin by Gildas Baudry, Collection du Musée de la Création Franche.

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Francois Hubert, Curator, Musée d’Aquitaine, with model of Le Conquerant.

◆ François Hubert, Curator, Musée d’Aquitaine

The Musée d’Aquitaine leads 150,000 visitors a year on a journey from pre-history to the city’s golden era of 19th century mercantile splendour, passing through Gallo-Roman times, the Middle Ages and the city’s role in the triangular trade and slavery. From prehistory, comes the stunningly elegant Venus de Laussel, a 25,000-year-old bas-relief depicting a pregnant woman; from the Romans, a bronze statue of Hercules; and to remember the heroes of the Middle Ages, superb stone figures of medieval warrior knights. But it was an exquisite 1/36th scale model of the Conquerant, a magnificent three-masted warship, that curator François Hubert chose as his particular favourite. The Conquerant was a legend in her own time. “She served in all of the great battles of the 18th century,” said François Hubert. The model was built by a master carpenter around 1770, at a time when the Conquerant was considered a perfect example of 18th century naval expertise with 74 cannons spread over two decks. She began her 58-year career in 1746 in the Ponant fleet, and thirty years later she arrived in Bordeaux. “She protected commerce from the English,” said Hubert. But then true adventure began. In 1778, the French king lent his support to the American War of Independence. “She supported Layfayette and the American ‘rebels’ against the English,” said Hubert. One of nine vessels that sailed and fought with Lafayette on the American coast, the Conquerant experience both glory and defeat.

Le Conquerant.

“After the revolution, she went to Egypt with Napoleon - again against the English,” said Hubert. There, however, she was captured by Admiral Nelson’s ﬂeet. Decommissioned, she ended her career as a hulk, one of the notorious ﬂoating prisons on the Thames. Musée d’Aquitaine 20 cours Pasteur, 33000 Bordeaux Tel: +33 (0)5 56 01 51 00 musaq@bordeaux.fr www.musee-aquitaine-bordeaux.com Open every day from 11:00 am to 6:00 pm Closed Monday and bank holidays

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Sophie Barthélémy, Curator, Musée des Beaux Arts, with Le Char d’Appollon by Odilon Redon.

◆ Sophie Barthélémy, Curator, Musée des Beaux Arts

The Musée des Beaux Arts boasts a world-class collection that includes masterpieces by Delacroix, Rodin, Bonheur, Corot, Matisse, Rubens and Bordeaux artists Odilon Redon and André Lhote. Children and adults alike are mesmerised by the immense, dramatic paintings such as Benjamin Constant’s Moroccan Prisoners, Alfred Smith’s The Embankment of Bordeaux, Rosa Bonheur’s Treading the Wheat in Camargue, Eugene Delacroix’s Greece on the ruins of Messolonghi, and Theodore Gudin’s The Act of Heroism by Captain Desse, from Bordeaux, towards the dutch ship Columbus. Curator Sophie Barthélémy chose Le Char d’Appollon (1909), an oil and pastel on paper by Odilon Redon. Redon grew up in the Medoc countryside. In poor health, he lived an isolated childhood that was rich in imagination and fantasy. “Redon’s father had a lot of imagination that he transferred to his

son,” said Sophie Barthélémy. “Redon recounts in his journal… when he was young his father invited him to look at the sky. He said there were fabulous, fanciful beings, and Redon developed this vision. He was fascinated by myths and their symbols.” The pastel also links to another artist well represented by the collection: Eugene Delacroix. Redon greatly admired Delacroix. Le Char d’Appollon is inspired by Delacroix’s work in the Apollo Gallery at the Louvre Museum. Musée des Beaux Arts 20 cours d’Albret, 33000 Bordeaux Tel: +33 (0)5 56 10 20 56 www.musba-bordeaux.fr Open every day from 11 am to 6 pm Closed Tuesday and bank holidays

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◆ Constance Rubini, Curator, Musée des Arts Décoratifs et Design

The Musée des Arts Décoratifs et Design, housed in Hotel de Lalande, has superb collection of furniture, ceramics, glass, silver, musical instruments, miniatures, table settings, offering an inspired presentation of French decorative arts at the time of the French Revolution. Curator Constance Rubini selected a small writing table by cabinetmaker Pierre IV Migeon (1696-1758), built around 1750. “I really love the elegant form of this petite table from the era of Louis XV, a kidney shaped table, with pretty arched legs with five faces. Along with its highly refined form, I also love the ingenuity of its mechanisms with various settings and the effectiveness of its proposed use,” said Constance Rubini of the table designed for ladies who enjoyed reading. “This petite table is called a ‘table-liseuse’ because its desktop is equipped with an adjustable, tilted panel on which you could rest a book, a book that one read by light from the fireplace. A cloth screen could be unwound to protect one’s face from the heat given off by the fireplace.” Musée des Arts Décoratifs et du Design 39 rue Bouffard, 33000 Bordeaux Tel: +33 (0)5 56 10 14 00 www.bordeaux.fr/p63910/musee-des-arts-decoratifs artdeco.publics@mairie-bordeaux.fr Open every day from 11:00 am to 6:00 pm Closed Tuesday and bank holidays

Constance Rubini, Curator, Musée des Arts Décoratifs et Design.

◆ Renata Pstrag, Curator, Musée des Douanes

The Musée des Douanes is like a grand cabinet of curiosities, drawing 25,000 visitors a year. Set in the magnificent hall of the original customs building built between 1735 and 1738 for the General Farm, the customs system used prior to the French Revolution, the collection of 13,000 artefacts includes an opium pipe, a real stuffed lion seized at Roissy airport, historical uniforms and weapons, tools and models, archives dating back to 1603 as well as lovely works of art - a drawing by Salvador Dali and a painting by Claude Monet, La Cabane des Douaniers. It was Monet’s painting that curator Renata Pstrag chose to highlight. “It’s important for the history of art and the career of Monet. It is one of small series of a dozen paintings on this theme. And as an artist, it was the first time he painted a series,” said Renata Pstrag. Monet was also capturing an important moment in the history of French customs. These cabins were built along the coast to stop the flow of contraband while at war with Britain. “People are drawn to the museum for the variety it offers, and how it shows the history of France through the prism of the policing merchandise,” said Pstrag.

Renata Pstrag, Curator, Musée des Douanes.

Musée National des Douanes 1 quai de la douane 33000 Bordeaux Tel: 33 (0) 5 56 48 82 82 contact@musee-douanes.fr www.musee-douanes.fr Open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 6 pm, every day except December 25 and January 1

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A Selection of Bordeaux’s Museums:

◆ Musée d’Art Contemporain de Bordeaux CAPC

7 rue Ferrère, 33000 Bordeaux Tel: +33 (0)5 56 00 81 50 www.capc-bordeaux.fr capc@mairie-bordeaux.fr Open every day from 11:00 am to 6:00 pm Closed Monday and bank holidays The museum of contemporary art was created in a colonial warehouse forty years. It’s an ideal venue for an impressive permanent collection of 1,300 works by 190 artists, including Robert Combas, Annette Messager, Mario Merz and Richard Long.

◆ Centre Jean Moulin

Place Jean Moulin, 33000 Bordeaux Tel: +33 (0)5 56 10 19 90 Open Tuesday to Sunday 2pm to 6 pm Closed Monday and bank holidays Admissions is free Museum devoted to WWII, the French Resistance and Allied Forces.

◆ Musée des Compagnons du Tour de France

112 rue Malbec, 33800 Bordeaux Tel: +33 (0)5 56 92 05 17 www.compagnons.org compagnons@orange.fr Open Wednesday, Thursday, Friday 2 pm to 5:30 pm, Saturday 10 am to 5 pm Admission 5€, free for under 12s Museum dedicated to the French organisation of master craftsmen and artisans who traditionally toured France as apprentices.

◆ Pascal Rigeade, Musée de la Création Franche

This unique museum supports the work of artists working outside the mainstream. The art is called art brut or outsider art. Curator Pascal Rigeade chose a colourful and imaginative work of art by Bordeaux artist Gildas Baudry. “I chose Gildas Baudry for three reasons. First, he’s a living artist and since our inception, we’ve been dedicated to living artists. Second, he meets our criteria of being self-taught, working on the margins of the institutions of contemporary art,” said Pascal Rigeade. “Third, he’s local, he lives in Bordeaux. It’s fashionable to go looking all over the world for outsider art. This shows you can ﬁnd art brut or outsider art right at your doorstep.” The work depicts the “fond marin” or seabed of Hurghada, Egypte. Baudry used felt-tipped pens, pastels and ballpoint pens on paper. Musée de la Création Franche 58 Avenue Maréchal de Lattre de Tassigny 33130 Bègles www.musee-creationfranche.com Tel: +33 (0)5 56 85 81 73 Open March through October 3- 7 pm, November through February 2 to 6 pm Admission is free

◆ Musée d’Ethnographie

Université de Bordeaux, Bâtiments E, 3 ter place de la Victoire, 33000 Bordeaux +33 (0) 5 57 57 31 61 meb.u-bordeaux.fr mediation.meb@u-bordeaux.fr Open during exhibitions Monday to Thursday from 2 pm to 6 pm, Friday 10 am to noon Admissions is free Most of the collection comes from the old Trocadero Museum in Paris: 6,000 objects from around the world, mainly Asia.

◆ Musée du vin et du Négoce

41 rue Borie, 33300 Bordeaux www.museeduvinbordeaux.com musee41@gmail.com Tel: +33 (0)5 56 90 19 13 Open every day from 10 am to 6 pm Closed December 25 and January 1 Admission 5€ -10€, free for under 18s This is a small museum in the historic Chartrons wine district devoted to the history of the wine trade in Bordeaux.

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Atmosphere concert at the Apollo Bar. PHOTO ERIC DESPUJOLS

◆ —— CITY CENTER —— ◆

The Hipster hook 2 NOLA D’ENIS

Hang out with the hipsters W E ’ RE ALL FAMILIAR WITH B ORDEAUX ’ S G OLDEN TRIANGLE. I’d like to introduce the Hipster Hook - the new Bordeaux stomping ground in a quartier that has transformed itself into one of coolest places in town and

incorporates rue du Pas-St-Georges, Place Fernand Lafarge and rue St James up to the Grosse Cloche. It’s the place to look for a neo-vintage frock, to find the definitive lumberjack shirt or to have that guitar repaired before the next soirée.

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La Grosse Cloche. PHOTO FABIEN COTTEREAU

Nightlife. PHOTO QUENTIN SALINIER

◆ Start at Place du Parlement. Pitch a right at Cousin and co (great wines; don’t forget to check out the wine scarves). Hipster your way down rue du Pas-St-Georges, cross Cours Alsace Lorraine and keep rolling, taking a slight left at Place Fernand Lafargue for rue St James.

◆ There does seem to be a modest bias towards

shops for the urbane male: Edgar, The Graduate, the uber-hip Le Rayon Frais, to name but a few. I asked my French girlfriends how they thought a hipster fille would dress, and they were unanimous — vintage.

◆

A little shop down rue Pas St. Georges fits the bill perfectly. The cognoscenti flock to Jolie Môme for the eclectic fashion mix — everything from last season Zara to preloved designer velvet. There’s also a selection of clothes, hats and accessories by vibrant young designers. Across the road, bang-on-trend Olga is capsule wardrobe heaven. Much of the stock comes directly from the trend-setting Sentier quarter in Paris.

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Dock des Epices. PHOTO GUILLAUME BONNAUD

◆ Le Nez Insurgé specialises

in fragrances, with expert advice to help you find the perfect scent. There are no mass market perfumes here, each one is chosen for its authenticity and originality with an emphasis is on natural products. There’s also a range of men’s grooming products (perfect for a well tended hipster beard), cosmetics and candles.

“This area has transformed itself into one coolest place”

◆ There aren’t many hairdressers in Bordeaux with a skeleton called Hector in the window and an edgy interior by the Bordelais Jean-François Buisson. Le Petit Salon is one of four dotted around town (the only one with a skeleton), and just the ticket for that slightly subversive bob. This is the place to come for a total transformation: they offer a video service to help you choose the new you. ◆ If you need a drink post-transformation,

Le Vintage Bar is an authentic French watering hole. The place is buzzing at apero time (which coincides wonderfully with happy hour). Come here to rub shoulders with locals letting off steam after a day’s work. They specialise in local microbrewery beers, including Gasconha from Pessac and La Lutine, an organic beer brewed in the Dordogne. There’s also 140 aged rums to choose from. Hotdogs for the hungry. 4pm till 2.00am.

◆ Guitare & Co has everything a hipster might need for his instrument. The shop is guitar nirvana. Pride of place goes to

their series of electric guitars entirely handmade onsite. The friendly owners and staff are passionate about their metier and keen to share their enthusiasm. There’s a vaulted recording studio in the cellar and a chesterfield sofa to strum on.

◆ There are 250 artisanal beers to choose from at L’Amirale,

many of which are available chilled for an impromptu aperitif. L’Amirale also brew their own beer, available bottled or on tap. The dynamic young owners have opened a bar round the corner, L’Annexe which incorporates their brewery and a restaurant. With over 60 beers and a selection of excellent charcuterie and cheeses, it’s a popular haunt. Open Thursday to Saturdays evenings, 6.00pm till Midnight.

◆ Strictly was the first men’s clothing store on the block and is still going strong. They sell everything a dude might want or need, from skateboards to rugged Dickies plaid shirts. There’s a well chosen range of trainers and shoes. This is where you just might find that elusive pair of must-have Huarache triple blacks or retro Puma’s. They also have a range of trainers for women. If street art’s your thing, stock up on their aerosols in every colour of the rainbow. The clothes are hip, the vintage industrial decor is too.

◆ People come from far and wide to Dock Des Epices, which as the name suggests sells a wide range of spices and condiments from all over the world. And what a range — over

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La Recharge. PHOTO QUENTIN SALINIER

Shoes. PHOTO LAURENT FARCAT

Cousin and co 2 Rue du Pas St Georges 33000 Bordeaux +33 (0)5 56 01 20 23 Jolie Môme 22 Rue du Pas St Georges 33000 Bordeaux +33 (0)5 56 52 71 66 Olga 2 Rue du Pas St Georges 33000 Bordeaux +33 (0)5 56 44 90 31 Guitars & Co. PHOTO PASCAL SAINGRÉ

150 different spices, a dozen varieties of vanilla pod, salts of every hue, including ones with a dash of merlot or sauvignon. There’s a fiery range of dried chilli and sauces, a selection of teas and infusions and great gift ideas, including a box of all the spices you might need for the ultimate gin and tonic.

◆ On the way home, nip into La Recharge. Not only is it

the first French epicerie to do away with packaging — they sell kale, the ultimate hipster brassica.

L’Amirale bière 5-7 rue St James 33000 Bordeaux l’Annexe 6 Place de la Ferme de Richemont 33000 Bordeaux Guitare and Co 49 rue St James 33000 Bordeaux +33 (0)5 33 52 24 62

Le Nez Insurgé 32 Rue du Pas St Georges 33000 Bordeaux

Strictly 2 Rue St James 33000 Bordeaux +33 (0)5 56 52 01 52

Le Petit Salon 38 Rue du Pas St Georges 33000 Bordeaux +33 (0)5 56 44 54 02

Dock des Epices 20 Rue St James 33000 Bordeaux +33 (0)5 56 44 41 57

Le Vintage bar 45 rue St James 33000 Bordeaux

La Recharge 38 rue Ste-Colombe 33000 Bordeaux

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PHOTO GUILLAUME BONNAUD

PHOTO FABIEN COTTEREAU

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◆

PHOTO THIERRY DAVID

PHOTO FABIEN COTTEREAU

◆ 1

◆ 9

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Old and new Shopping à La Concept 2 NOLA D’ENIS

A walk in the vintage shops and the modern stores “in the air.”

CONCEPT STORES OFFER SHOPPERS many kinds of items sharing a central theme. Of course, concept stores have always existed - they just didn't have a name. Now they do, and Bordeaux is a terrific place for niche shopping, with unique treasures for all budgets. A few years ago, I met an american couple in a Bordeaux restaurant. They were here to celebrate their 25th wedding anniversary and had chosen a fitting present to mark the event. I instantly thought of wine, but I was wrong. They’d flown thousands of kilometres to select an antique wardrobe in Bordeaux’s famous Notre Dame district — they’d heard about it from a neighbour who’d waxed lyrical about the Ali Baba’s cavern that is the antique district in Chartons, just off the quayside in Bordeaux. Notre Dame in Chartrons - or ‘The Village’ as it is known, is the perfect place to ‘flâner’ or meander. It’s a collection of 35 antiques stalls, offering a wide selection from the region and from afar, to suit all tastes and budgets. This is the place to come for an 18c Elm wardrobe, a rococo mirror, or a silver decanter. Do take time to visit the surrounding roads, such as Impasse du Couvent and Le Faubourg des Arts with its small shops, galleries and specialist boutiques such as La Patine du Temps which specialises in gold leaf and gilt. For contemporary shopping with an eye on French design and quality, do have a look at Do you speak Français, on the same road as the village. One reviewer described the passionate young owners of the shop as “the sort of people you want to put the world to rights with over a drink”. On the other side of town and with a completely different feel to it, is Le Passage St Michel, next door to the beautiful Basilica de St Michel. It’s less gentrified than Notre Dame and there are some real bargains to be had. If you do have a coup de coeur,

don’t hesitate as the turnover is fast. Try going early on a Sunday morning when the weekly St Michel flea market is in full swing around the Basilica ; don’t forget to book a table at the Passage restaurant for lunch. Do as the locals do, start at the wonderful nearby covered food market Capucins (concept shopping with a gastronomic theme, as only the French do so well), pausing for a coffee or a pick me up oyster before heading out onto the Place. The Bordeaux concept store par excellence has to be Mollat. Opened in 1896 by Albert Mollat and still run by the family, it’s the largest independent bookstore in France. Mollat covers an entire block and has an excellent range of books in English as well as every novel in French you’ve always wanted to read. Watch out for the teenagers sitting on the floor reading the latest BDs in the extensive comic book department and do take your children to the kid’s books section. They hold regular arts and cultural events. They are renown for their imaginative window displays — their posters are wonderful. Bonendroi is in the hipster quarter on rue St James. A little like a French Muji, with its pared down look, the shop is a runaway success. There’s nothing quite like it and the sister shop in Arcachon. It’s a family run store and bang on trend — so cool that the Bordelais give their Bonendroi Christmas presents unwrapped, still in their brown paper bags… Stock includes a plastic Napoleon waving his sling, 100% French, French berets, wine bottle scented candles (of course) and an irresistible selection of stationary. A great place for presents to take home. Just off Place du Parlement is another place for presents that you just won’t find anywhere else. We are Nothing is locavore concept shopping. Everything is French, funky, well thought out and designed to last. There are bags made from recycled fire

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PHOTO STEPHANE LARTIGUE

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◆ 4

brigade hoses, baskets made from bicycle tubes by the shop’s owner, rings from reused lift buttons and boxer shorts made in France-from recycled materials, of course. The owner is passionate about his concept — keeping it local and respecting the environment. Do look downstairs, the atmospheric vaulted cave hosts exhibitions and displays of local artists, some of which are for sale. You cannot talk about Bordeaux concept stores without at least mentioning Darwin on the right bank, a short walk along the Garonne from Stalingrad. Opened in 2014, nobody could have imagined how popular a hangout Darwin would become in such a short space of time. The General Store stocks a wide range of organic produce — including locally roasted coffee, kale from the region in season, delicate salads and organic oils to dress them with. There’s also a ready meal section — great for a picnic pre skatepark with the kids or if the very popular restaurant is fully booked. Last but not least, for devotées of all thing vintage, the charity store Emmaüs in Parempuyre is recycling on a grand scale. Preloved items include clothing, jewellery and accessories, furniture, boardgames and toys. The only problem is going to be how to get it all home….

1 The Village 61 - 67 rue Notre Dame 33000 Bordeaux Tel: +33 (0)5 56 52 66 13 www.villagenotredame.com

PHOTO GUILLAUME BONNAUD

2 La Patine du Temps

◆ 3

54 rue Notre Dame 33000 BORDEAUX Tel: +33 (0)5 56 52 49 84 www.la-patine-du-temps.info

3 Do you Speak Français 93 rue Notre Dame 33000 Bordeaux Tel: +33 (0)6 24 99 64 12 www.dysfrancais.jimdp.com

4 Le Passage Saint Michel

PHOTO LAURENT THEILLET

15 Place Canteloup 33800 Bordeaux Tel: +33 (0)5 56 74 01 84 www.lesbrocanteurs dupassage.fr

◆ 6

5 Marché des Capucins Place des Capucins 33000 Bordeaux www.marchedescapucins.com

6 Mollat 15 rue Vital-Carles 33000 Bordeaux Tel: +33 (0)5 56 56 40 40 www.mollat.com

7 Bonendroi 19 rue St James 33000 Bordeaux Tel: +33 (0)5 56 81 83 80 www.bonendroi.com

8 We are Nothing w.a.n 1 rue des Lauriers 33000 Bordeaux Tel: +33 (0)5 56 48 15 41 www.wanweb.fr

9 Darwin General Store 87 Quai des Queyries 33100 Bordeaux Tel: +33 (0)5 56 77 52 06 www.darwin-ecosysteme.fr

10 Emmaüs Aquitaine Bordeaux 2 r Compagnons Abbé Pierre 33290 Parempuyre Tel: +33 (0)5 56 35 25 26

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Joel Robuchon in La Grande Maison. PHOTO GUILLAUME BONNAUD

◆ —— FOOD —— ◆

The Michelin Stars and their galaxy 2 NOLA D’ENIS

In Bordeaux and beyond, who are the gastronomic leaders ? A tasty invitation. L OVE

IT OR HATE IT, THE GASTRONOMIC WORLD HOLDS

each February with the publication of the feather ruffling red bible that is the latest Michelin Guide. Restaurants are judged on 5 criteria: quality of the ingredients, creativity, cooking technique and flavour combination, value for money, consistent standards. Here in Bordeaux and across the South West, we’ve had our share of winners and losers, surprise omissions and delighted entrants. On the ‘no surprises’ front is La Grande Maison, ITS BREATH

Joel Robuchon’s new Bordeaux restaurant with executive chef Tomonori Danzaki heading a talented brigade of 15 in the kitchen. Mr Robuchon is the most decorated Michelin chef in the world; his new venture, La Grande Maison, open barely a year, has gained a coveted 2* in this year’s guide, joining the list of 10 new entrants amongst the 81 2* Michelin restaurants in the 2016 red book. It was chosen as one of the 8 best restaurants in the world by Condé Nast in 2015. After the award ceremony, Joel Robuchon stated he is aiming for 3*.

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A talentuous chef, Gilad Peled, works at le Pressoir d’argent for Gordon Ramsay. PHOTO CLAUDE PETIT

The executive chef Tomonori Danzaki, in La Grande maison. PHOTO QUENTIN SALINIER

Gordon Ramsay at the Pressoir d’Argent, the grand hôtel restaurant. PHOTO QUENTIN SALINIER

◆ A BUZZ IN BORDEAUX Another

famous, recent entry both to the Bordeaux foodie scene and the 2016 Michelin guide is British chef Gordon Ramsay. Mr Ramsay is best known to the public for his television show “Hell’s Kitchen (“Cauchemar en cuisine” in French). The celebrity chef’s new Bordeaux restaurant, Le Pressoir d’argent at the Intercontinental’s Grand Hôtel, has not disappointed gaining a first Michelin star in the 2016 guide, and tipped to gain a second next year. The restaurant is named after the extremely rare silver lobster press in the dining room and the menu stars local lobster cooked in hay in the press, with butternut squash, Bordelais bisque and Périgord truffles. Another regional winner this year is Les Belles Perdrix at Chateau Troplong-Mondot in Saint Emilion. Unlike other restaurants in the region which owe a good part of their status to the famous names behind the venture, Les Belles Perdrix has quietly gained an excellent reputation with very little médiatisation ; The restaurant, located in a Saint-Emilion château, earned one Michelin star this year. The chef, David Charrier, was co author at a 2* restaurant in Carantec before moving to Saint Emilion three years ago. His gastronomic cuisine is based on local produce, much of which comes from the chateau itself, as does the wine (of course); the menus change with the seasonal produce. “Set in the vineyards, with a beautiful terrace overlooking the hillside, this white stone restaurant is actually an housed within the château of a premier grand cru classé Saint-Émilion. At the helm is a highly skilled chef, who offers an artful new take on local gastronomy — food that is perfectly suited to the wines from the estate”, describes the guide about the restaurant.

◆ CHARENTE

COUNTRYSIDE Wi t h t h e r e c e n t changes to the French map, the South West region now covers the Limousin and Aquitaine Poitou-Charente. This includes another winner on the list not so far from Gironde. Dyades is set in the stunning XIth century chateau of Domaine des Etangs, deep in the Charente countryside. “Behind the hotplates at Dyades is Fabien Beaufour, a talented chef who has worked notably in New York and London. His cuisine is elegant and full of flavour, with herbs, flowers, fruits and vegetables directly from the Chateau gardens, served in refined luxury in the converted stables. Superb!”, write Michelin guide. As with every Michelin guide: there are inevitably the winners and losers - 6 regional restaurants have lost a star. Amongst them are several with a new team that may well regain their laurels in the next round or two of the guide, all fingers crossed

◆ THE OVERLOOKED

One of the big questions on many Bordelais lips is why s o ma ny s e e mingly e x ce lle nt re s ta ur ant s have been overlooked. There are those that do not qualify (yet) as they have not been opened long enough, such as Michelin starred chef Stéphane Carrade's sublime ‘L’étoile de Mer’, but there are other talents that are notable in their absence in the guide, such as Nicolas Nguyen at Le Chapon Fin (one of the first restaurants to hold 3 Michelin stars), Tanguy Laviale’s excellent Garopapilles or the highly praised bright young chefs at Miles, forerunners in the Bordeaux bistro brat pack.

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David Charrier at Les Belles Perdrix. PHOTO STÉPHANE KLEIN

◆ AT THE TOP The region

does have its fair share of Michelin restaurants - including Michel Guérard’s 3* Les Prés d’Eugénie at Eugenie-les-Bains and last year’s 2* winner Nicolas Masse’s la Grand’ Vigne at Les Sources de Caudalie in Martillac. Regional 2* restaurants include Christopher Coutanceau at La Rochelle serving acclaimed local seafood dishes and Château Cordeillan-Bages at Paulliac where the chef Jean-Luc Rocha is known for his creative twist and elegant harmonies. You must also climb “Cenon hill” to discover Nicolas Magie cooking at Le Saint James. Located on the main place Bouliac village, this 1* Michelin star restaurant offers a stunning view on Bordeaux and the food is excellent. Same thing at Le Prince Noir were Vivien Durand offers a stunning and joyfull experience. In their city-center a star stills shinning at Le Pavillon des boulevards

◆

THE OTHER CASSIFICATIONS But it’s not just about stars. There are other Michelin classifications worth noting, such as the excellent Michelin Bib Gourmand, a recently added award for restaurants offering good food at reasonable prices. The new classification features 11 restaurants in the South

Nicolas Masse at La Grand’vigne. PHOTO PHILIPPE TARIS

West including Le Gavroche, a tiny and very popular restaurant in Blaye, just north of Bordeaux. The young chef uses fresh produce with creativity (parmesan lollies with the aperitif, scallop c r u m b l e ) . Booking a dvised. If you want to get a table at Dan, another on the list, be sure to reserve in advance. Their twist on Franco-Asian fusion cuisine has gone down a treat in Bordeaux; they certainly merit their place on the Bib list. The young Scottish chef Daniel Gallacher’s Racines is also amongst the Bib mentions. With well priced set menus, lunchtime and evening, combining fresh local produce and inventive cooking, the restaurant fills up quickly. Booking is advised, even for lunch. Borned in Bordeaux, Philippe Etchebest come back a few months ago with his new concept: “Le quatrième mur”. He’s one of the most mediatic cooker in France with the french version of “Hell’s kitchen”. Former 2* in Saint-Emilion, he says this race star doesn’t interest him anymore. For how long ? If there was any doubt, the Michelin 2016 confirms Bordeaux’s place on the foodie map of France. The Michelin stars are the tip of the gastronomic iceberg, from 3* to a tiny Bib bistro, it’s all here. Roll on Michelin 2017. Here we come.

Jean-Luc Rocha at Cordeillan-Bages. PHOTO CLAUDE PETIT

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Nicolas Magie at “Le Saint-James”. PHOTO LAURENT THEILLET

Fabien Beaufour, at “Dyades” in Charente. PHOTO D.R.

A brasserie, the new option Philippe Etchebest choose for his come back. PHOTO GUILLAUME BONNAUD

◆ La Grande Maison La Grande Maison 10 rue Labottière 33000 Bordeaux +33 (0)5 35 38 16 16

◆ Le Pressoir d'Argent 2 pl Comédie, 33000 Bordeaux +33 (0)5 57 30 43 04

◆ Les Belles Perdrix

Château Troplong Mondot 33330 Saint-Emilion +33 (0)5 57 55 32 05

◆ Dyades au Domaine des Etangs Le Bourg 16310 Massignac +33 (0)5 45 61 85 01

◆ L’Etoile de Mer

22 rue du Parlement Ste Catherine 33000 Bordeaux +33 (0)5 56 79 78 98

◆ Le Chapon Fin

5 rue Montesquieu 33000 Bordeaux +33 (0)5 56 79 10 10

◆ Garopapilles

62 rue Abbé de l’Epée 33000 Bordeaux +33 (0)9 72 45 55 36

◆ Miles

33 rue du Cancera 33000 Bordeaux +33 (0)5 56 81 18 24

◆ Les Prés d’Eugénie

◆ Dan

◆ La Grand’Vigne

◆ Racines

◆ Christopher Coutanceau

◆ Quatrième mur

Eugénie-Les-Bains, Aquitaine +33 (0)5 56 05 06 07 Smith Haut-Lafitte 33650 Martillac +33 (0)5 57 83 83 83

Plage de la Concurrence La Rochelle +33 (0)5 46 41 48 19

◆ Château Cordeillan-Bages Route des Châteaux Pauillac +33 (0)5 56 59 24 24

◆ Le Gavroche

14 rue Neuve Blaye +33 (0)5 57 58 21 03

6 rue du Cancéra 33000 Bordeaux +33 (0)5 40 05 76 91 59 rue Georges Bonnac 33000 Bordeaux +33 (0)5 56 98 43 08 2 place de la Comédie 33000 Bordeaux +33 (0)5 56 02 49 70

◆ Le Pavillon des

Boulevards 120 rue de la croix de Seguey 33000 Bordeaux +33 (0)5 56 81 51 02

◆ Le Prince Noir

1 rue du Prince Noir 33310 Lormont +33 (0)5 56 06 12 52

A single star denotes a very good restaurant, 2* signify excellent cuisine worth a detour, 3* signify exceptional cooking worth a special trip.

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Philippe Lagraula at Une cuisine en ville. PHOTO PHILIPPE TARIS

◆ —— FOODING —— ◆

A cool and tasty dinner 2 NOLA D’ENIS

Things are hotting up in the kitchen T HERE ’ S A NEW CUISINE TAKING HOLD , according to Alexandre Cammas, founder of the inﬂuential guide Fooding. He calls it “Faubourgeoise” — egalitarian cuisine that’s popping up everywhere, from Brooklyn to Berlin; a spirited, inventive, streetwise, attracting followers in neighbourhoods new to foodie hangouts.

In recent years, Bordeaux has gained accolades as being one of the foodiest towns around. It began with the Bordeaux Bratpack (Miles, Dan, Garopapilles, Le chien de Pavlov…); high quality, reasonably priced restaurants serving exactly the type of faubourgeoise cuisine Cammas refers to are now all over town. Here’s a selection:

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Jean-Pierre Xiradakis and his daughter at La Tupina. PHOTO FABIEN COTTEREAU

◆ Une Cuisine en Ville

◆ Magasin Général Darwin

Approachable haute cuisine

Bistro Refectoire

Michelin chef Phillipe Lagraula opened his convivial restaurant to make gastronomic cooking attainable - and it works. The food is sublime, service is attentive, the wall paper is as cool as it gets - but prices are strictly accessible, especially at lunchtimes. Dishes include local foie gras with kumquats and grey shrimps and baby peppers stuffed with local crab served with mango and avocado. Superb. Booking essential.

France’s largest organic restaurant is a busy place, even on week-day evenings. Seasonal, organic ingredients — with the odd twist, such as kale, a rarity here, or a slither of butternut in the hamburgers — locally sourced. There is also a full choice vegan menu — a ﬁrst in a mainstream Bordeaux bistro. Even the wines are organic, as are the beers. A good place to go with the family. Young, hip service. Do book in advance.

77 rue du Palais Gallien, 33000 Bordeaux Tel : +33 (0)5 56 44 70 93

87 Quai des Queyries, 33100 Bordeaux Tel : +33 (0)5 56 77 52 06

◆ La Tupina

◆ Racines

The First

Grown up gastronomy

You simply cannot talk about bistros and Bordeaux without more than a passing reference to the great La Tupina. Bistro dining at its best, and the precedent to follow. Great food (thick steaks, cooked over vine cuttings in the chimney), served in true Bordeaux style. And if you’re looking for the perfect place to stay, they have glorious bed and breakfast accommodation available across the road. A must. Booking essential.

Scottish chef Daniel Gallacher is known to many Bordelais from his time at the Dubern in Bordeaux, and they have been swift to follow him to his own venture. There’s a single menu which changes daily (lunchtime is a bargain at 17€). Dishes include 12hour lamb, served with an aubergine conﬁt and a dash of scottish crumble or a tuna sashimi served with asparagus, baby peas and strawberry. Highly recommended - if you can get a table.

6 Rue Porte de la Monnaie, 33800 Bordeaux Tel: +33 (0)5 56 91 56 37

59 rue Georges Bonnac, 33000 Bordeaux Tel: +33 (0)5 56 98 43 08

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PHOTO D.R.

PHOTO CLAUDE PETIT

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◆ L’Etoile de Mer du Petit Commerce Sublime It’s as different as you can get to Darwin - tiny, discreet, with a luxury -infused menu — but the Faubourgeoise ethic is here in force. Chef Stéphane Carrade (formerly of The Grande Hotel) has tucked his intimate restaurant down a hidden passageway. There’s no sign on the door, but that has not stopped word of mouth making this one of Bordeaux’s hottest restaurants. The food is sublime, with imaginative pairings (the trufﬂe ﬂecked meringue is divine) and the service is excellent. You can watch M Carrade at work on your lobsters in the open kitchen. Heavenly. Booking advised. 22 Rue du Parlement St Pierre, 33000 Bordeaux Tel: +33 (0)5 56 79 78 98

◆ Nama Wine Restaurant The owners may be Japanese, but this is the place to come to try great Claret pairings or to ﬁnd that off the beaten track glass to go with your surprise menu. Menus vary from 2 to 5 dishes — all accompanied by wines to match — and are ﬂexible to accommodate preferences. They also run “wine battles," matching like for like wines or champagnes — pick your favourites. Monthly wine events. Booking advised. 24 rue Lafaurie Monbadon, 33000 Bordeaux Tel: +33 (0)5 56 44 88 54

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◆ Tentazioni

➤

Sardinia meets Brittany meets Bordeaux What do you get when a passionate Sardinian chef falls in love with a girl from Brittany and moves to Bordeaux? This is it. Behind the unassuming windows, down a side street (very Faubourgeoise) lies a great little restaurant, recommended by an impressed chef who loved the touches of luxury (Toscane truffles, crayfish) and the deft cuisine. Quirky, biodynamic/organic orientated wine list with an organic Prosecco amongst the gems. Southern Italian roots, firmly implanted in Bordeaux: wonderful.

PHOTO QUENTIN SALINIER

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59 rue du Palais Gallien, 33000 Bordeaux Tel: +33 (0)5 56 52 62 12

◆ Piano Du Lac The future Birthplace of many a talented chef, the Ferrandi school is now in Bordeaux. Have a look at what the upcoming faubourgeoise young bloods are up to at the excellent restaurant attached to the school. Ring for opening hours. Booking essential.

◆ L’Exquis Where East meets West Another Japanese influenced restaurant, very different to Nama but another firm Faubourgeoise contender, L’Exquis seems to be exactly what Fooding refers to when they talk about new wave dining. It’s tucked down a side street, the menu is short and to the point, ingredients are seasonal, local and simply cooked with passion. Chef Minamoto's menus change daily but might include an Asian influenced Pot au feu au Canard, with a superb cake flecked with green tea to follow from the open kitchen. Vegetarians catered for. Excellent wine list. Booking advised.

PHOTO PHILIPPE TARIS

10 rue René Cassin, 33049 Bordeaux Lac Tel: +33 (0)5 24 07 78 16

◆ Coté Rue Chesterfields and Stucco ceilings There’s not a bad review to be had of this great restaurant, down yet another Bordeaux side street. With two classically trained young chefs at the helm, the menus are inventive and change regularly. Everything is cooked from scratch from fresh ingredients in the open kitchen (ticking another faubourgeoise box). Elegant cuisine, with more than a touch of ﬁnesse — dishes include tonka infused sea bream served with salsify or beef smoked with coffee and a touch of cinnamon. Contemporary bistro food at its ﬁnest. Booking essential. 14 rue Paul Louis Lande, 33000 Bordeaux Tel: +33 (0)5 56 49 06 49

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PHOTO THIERRY DAVID

3 rue de Guienne, 33000 Bordeaux Tel: +33 (0)9 77 42 07 35

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◆ —— DRINKING —— ◆

When in Bordeaux A glass with the locals 2 NOLA D’ENIS

You won’t quit the town without a glass of wine. A few places for a nice tasting There are those that say it all started in town at Chez Pompon on a Thursday night - the formerly unheard of idea of drinking a glass of wine as an aperitif or as a tipple on its own. The city now boasts a wide range of wine bars, from chic to cosy, with wines to suit all palates and budgets. Before the rise of the wine bar, wine was reserved for meals, saving the best bottle of the week for Sunday lunch. Now everyone’s drinking wine by itself or with tapas, and the Bor-

deaux Tourist office has organised The Urban Wine Trail to help make the most of the city’s bars. The tour takes you across the city, discovering the bars, different food and wine pairings and districts as you go. The Urban Wine Trail covers 21 kms in Bordeaux and the suburbs. There are 14 wine bars on the trail, some serving exclusively local wines, some specialising in wines from elsewhere. The bars are chosen for their character, the wines on

Chez Pompon. PHOTO STEPHANE LARTIGUE

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Bar à vin du CIVB. PHOTO PHILIPPE TARIS

offer and the food they serve. Don’t forget to ask about food and wine pairing when booking. It’s a great way to round off a day exploring the vineyards - putting your tasting skills into practice! Details are available from the tourist office or at: www.cirkwi.com/en/circuit/36819-urban-wine-trail Here are a few: The bar at the CIVB is unmissable. It showcases Bordeaux wines and is housed in the same building as the Bordeaux Wine school, just opposite the tourist office. The wine list features wine from all over the region and prices are unbeatable. Glasses vary from Grand Cru to wines by small producers. Excellent charcuterie available. Friendly, approachable service; bilingual staff. Martin at The Wine Bar at the Boutique Hotel certainly knows his stuff and is keen to share his knowledge and passion for wine. Eclectic wine list, blind tastings, frequent events and a tapas menu are on offer. Tasting sessions at 5.00 pm daily, with 5 glasses of wine from around France with a discussion on the wines. Booking advised. Le Wine Bar is very Italian - with carefully chosen international wines and exceptional Italian charcuterie and cheeses. 60 wines available by the glass. Jovial service and a great atmosphere. Book or get there early as it fills up fast. L’Essential is a short tram ride or a good walk out of town. Excellent formula available offering 2 glasses of wine with a roasted raw milk Camembert. Another out of town wine bar is the cosy Born to be Wine in Gradignan. Reasonably priced wines from a smallish list. Very good accompanying dishes. Friendly service from the owners who are happy to advise on your choice of wines. Food and wine pairing available.

“At the CIVB, the wine list features wine from all over the region and prices are unbeatable.” ◆ Chez Pompon (Thursday evenings is happy hour) 4 Cours de Verdun - 33000 Bordeaux Tel: +33 (0)5 56 79 13 13

◆ Bar à Vin CIVB

3 Cours du XXX Juillet - 33000 Bordeaux Tel: +33 (0)5 56 00 43 47

◆ Le Wine Bar at the Boutique Hotel

3 rue Lafaurie de Monbadon - 33000 Bordeaux Tel: +33 (0)5 56 48 80 40

◆ L’Essentiel

14 Rue de la Vielle Eglise - 33700 Mérignac Tel: +33 (0)5 56 34 98 19

◆ Born To Be Wine

5 Allée Mallemouche - 33170 Gradignan Tel: +33 (0)5 56 75 99 36

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Les macarons. PHOTO ARCHIVES QUENTIN SALINIER

Galette des Rois briochée. PHOTO ARCHIVES LAURENT THEILLET

➤

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◆ —— SUGAR AND SPICE —— ◆

Sweet Bordeaux 2 NOLA d’ENIS

Hot on the heels of the new bistronomie has come a resurgence of interest in the art of French patisserie.

◆ 2

◆ 1

BORDEAUX IS NO EXCEPTION, there’s a plethora of tempting new pâtisseries and young chef pâtissieres focusing on traditional recipes, often reworked with a contemporary tweak. Les GLuKoSeS With this in mind, the club GLuKoSeS was born, started by the young Alexsander Oliver, pastry chef at Bordeaux’s highly sought after Racines restaurant, bringing together an assembly of talented pâtissieres across South West France. The committee was joined by Matthieu Vidal from the Michelin starred Darroze in Langon and Samuel Denis from the equally starred Pressoir d’Argent at the Grande Hotel, along with Sebastien Torres who hosted the first meeting at the celebrated Ecole Ferrandi. The club champions the art of French patisserie in every form. Every couple of months they meet to talk about their work, exchange recipes and offer advice or support. Each brings a dessert around a theme (such as chocolate or citrus fruit). The results have been stunning and have acted as a stimulus in a profession where the pastry chef is often the unsung hero in the kitchen. Sebastien Torres is currently the chef in charge of patisserie training at Ferrandi, having previously worked at The Grande Hotel and held the post of executive pastry chef at The Sheraton Park Tower in London. He suggested the following as being typical of the region:

The humble pain au chocolat has been become regional — through its name. The rest of France may say pain au chocolat, but here in Bordeaux we call it a chocolatine. Et voila! It’s Bordelais! The famous Galette des Rois served on 12th night, has a Bordelais version too, in brioche rather than the traditional puff pastry galette; a Bordelais take on a classic.

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◆ 4

◆ ◆ 5

PHOTO ARCHIVES PASCAL BATS

PHOTO 4 : ARCHIVES NICOLAS TUCAT - PHOTO 6 : ARCHIVES LOÏC DEQUIER

2 The macaron, the magic reworking of almonds and egg whites is available across France, but we claim it as ours. In St Emilion they are made to the same secret recipe first formulated by Urseline nuns in the 17c. They make the perfect accompaniment to a glass of bubbly Cordeliers in the Urseline convent cloisters when you visit the town.

recently been bought by 2 young Bordelais who have since opened a second in a Bordeaux suburb. The puits has a choux pastry base, topped with a lightly caramelised crême diplomat. Try both and take your pick.

3 There are those that argue that

“The Pastis Landais is a dense golden spongecake with a sugary crust, perfumed with orange flower water”

the dune (or dune blanche) is THE local delicacy. A result of a happy accident, à la tarte tatin, where someone eventually decided to fill the choux buns with the (secret) cream mixture, rather than whiling away empty hours dipping them in the mixture, the Dune is just that: the perfect marriage of choux and the magic cream. Simple but divine and the perfect size to pop in your mouth in one delicious bite.

4 A rival for the title is the Puits d’amour from Captieux, a village south of Bordeaux. (Rumour has it that Captieux babies are not found in cabbage patches, but amongst the puits d’amour). Dating back to the 1940s, the original boutique has

5 The Pastis Landais is an entirely different affair. Originating from Les Landes, to the south of Bordeaux, it is a dense golden spongecake with a sugary crust, perfumed with orange flower water, vanilla or rum.

6 The croustade or Tourtière Landaise comes from the same region. Extremely fine layers of buttered puff or filo pastry are stuffed with apples or plums that have been marinated in Armagnac before being baked in the oven. It was originally only served on feast days due to the high butter content. 7 The Kouglof is a brioche flavoured with dried fruits, originally from Alsace. However, as any Bordelais will tell you, the very best Kouglof are to be found right here in Bordeaux at the Patisserie Valantin in the Nansouty district.

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◆ 8

PHOTO ARCHIVES FABIEN COTTEREAU

Which just leaves the Bordeaux patisserie that is quite unique to the region and is found everywhere, from the lowliest grocery shop to its own glistening emporiums: the Canelé

8 The Canelé. The story goes that they date back to the early 16c, when nuns gathered spilled flour on the quaysides and mixed it with donated egg yolks (the whites were used to clarify wine) and cheap rum from the islands. The little cakes were given to the poor.

perfect canelé must be just so: creamy almost custardy on the inside, but perfectly set and crunchily caramelised on the outside, but not burnt. Easy to make and extremely tricky to get right.

“The perfect canelé must be just so: creamy almost custardy on the inside, but perfectly set and crunchily caramelised on the outside, but not burnt.”

In 1830 a Bordelais patissier discovered the recipe and the rest is history! The name canelé comes from the ridges in the mould. Traditionally, copper moulds were used but today silicon moulds are popular. Whilst the size may vary from a mere mouthful to that of a small muffin, and the spelling of canelé might change, the

The specialists: With over a dozen stores to their ensign (look for the distinctive red packaging), Philippe and Angèle Baillardran are renown for their canelés, macarons and other local delicacies, arranged like jewellry in plush scarlet boxes in Bordeaux, Paris and beyond.

La Toque Cuivrée is another local canelé producer with stores dotted across Bordeaux and as far away as Brest and Clermont Ferrand. They’ve recently opened a flagship store on Place Gambetta, in the heart of Bordeaux.

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◆ —— THEIR SPOTS —— ◆

Where they go, we follow 2 MICHELLE DE LA ROSA LEWIS

Faced with such a huge range of places to wine and dine in Bordeaux, it is sometimes necessary to ask for some advice from those who know the scene better than us. Some well-known faces from the city have responded to our call for help. If a glass of wine was a piece of music, ◆ what would it sound like? Fred Beneix’s concept of combining wine and music is a unique experience in Bor deaux. Previously a DJ (DJ Zimpala), his wine4melomanes project allows him to mix both passions. Mr Beneix loves Bordeaux and has a long list of recommandations. Forced to filter, this is the result : 1) Mama shelter, 19 Rue Poquelin Moliere, next to the St.André cathedral . Check out its hand-made beers and juices. Fred particularly likes its view from the terraceand he is right, it is incredible! 2) L’univerre, 40 rue Lecocq. A bar/restaurant recommended by a wine-lover to other fellow wine-lovers. 3) Café brun, 45 rue Saint Remi, a pub-style, intimate, cosy environment in the centre of the city. It often has music too.

PHOTO M. DE LA ROSA LEWIS

Fred Beneix

Café Brun, informal and chilled. PHOTO LAURENT THEILLET

This jazz fan works as a press agent for ◆ artists such as Samy Thibault, Pierre de Batman, Eric Seva and Jonathan Avishaiai. She is also director of the Bordeaux music school UnAire2Rien. Her first recommandation is Chez le Pépère, 19 Rue Georges Bonnac, where you can get a feel for France’s south-western music. There is a cellar where jazz and swing concerts are hold and you can eat local meat products and drink wine! Number two on her lists is Chez Tonio, 209 Rue Fondaudège: a wine bar where you can taste oysters. It has a very intimate feel to it with a U-shaped bar where you can get talking to anyone and everyone. Her final choice is Le Caillou, Le Caillou du Jardin Botanique, a restaurant/club right in the middle of Bordeaux’ botanical garden. Wednesdays, Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays there are jazz or world music concerts. When the weather is warm, the concerts are given outside in the mist of the garden surrounding!

PHOTO M. DE LA ROSA LEWIS

Camille dal’Zovo

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The Rocher de Palmer at Cenon, ◆ 20 minutes from Bordeaux centre, is a multiple concert venue dedicated to world culture and music. It is located on the right side of the river Garonne and is easily accesible by tram. Its director and founder, Patrick Duval, gives us a few pointers of where he likes to go out in Bordeaux when he is not working… something which he says, does not happen, unfortunately, very often. The first thing to know about Patrick is that he is a fan of Italian food. That is why his top two recommandations are, of course, Italian restaurants. At the top of his list is L’Artigiano Mangiatutto, 6 rue des Ayres, where you can get your fill for pasta and pizza. Its bonus point, according to Mr Duval goes to its terrasse. The other Italian restaurant is Osteria da Luigi, 23 rue du Pas Saint Georges, near Camille Jullian Square. Patrick also recommends Miles, the restaurant which he says could “easily be a michelin-starred establishment”, located 33 rue du Cancera.

PHOTO M. DE LA ROSA LEWIS

Patrick Duval

One of several concert halls at The Rocher de Palmer. PHOTO FABIEN COTTEREAU

◆ Jandre Marais

PHOTO M. DE LA ROSA LEWIS

South African rugby player for the Bordeaux UBB team, Jandre Marais, has been enjoying Bordeaux for the last two and a half years. Top on his eating list is Café Gourmand, 3 Rue Buffon, which he describes as “probably the best burger joint in town” and for a drink he recommends the Dog and Duck pub. “My wife and I have a rule: as there is so much on offer, we try to avoid going to the same restaurant twice in order to always try something new”. However with the Brasserie Bordelaise, a steak joint, on 50 Rue Saint-Rémi, they have broken the rule. Last but not least, “Le Monseigneur”, a discotheque near Allées de Tourny which he laughingly says he hopes he is not too old for. Café Gourmand, a family restaurant. PHOTO LAURENT THEILLET

It is his last few months as Director of ◆ the Opera of Bordeaux, a post he has kept for almost 20 years, since 1996. Thierry Fouquet highlights certain top places to eat in his adopted city. First on his list, TentaziOni, an italian restaurant located 59 Rue du Palais Gallien. He says he often goes there for lunch or for dinner after the show. Mr Fouquet says he does not like big restaurants. Small intimate places are of his preferred liking. His second recommendation is Garopapilles, again a very small intimate place with only five or six tables. Situated on 62 Rue Abbé de l’épée, Mr Fouquet describes it as “probably the best of Bordeaux”. And finally, last but not least, Le Petit Commerce, known for its fish, can be found in the 22 Rue du Parlement Saint Pierre. The chef is Stéphane Carrade who used to be at the Hotel de Ville until Gordon Ramsey arrived.

PHOTO FABIEN COTTEREAU

Thierry Fouquet

Le Petit Commerce, well-known for its sea-food. PHOTO QUENTIN SALINIER

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Reading on the grass in the Jardin Public. photo Fabien Cottereau

Surfing the wave at Wave Surf. photo Quentin Salinier

◆ —— CHILDREN —— ◆

happy families 2 Caroline MatthewS

of the 6 million or so visitors to bordeaux each year, many come en famille. but what does the city have to keep a younger audience entertained? Fortunately there is a lot on offer, whether you’re in town for day or a week, with a toddler or teenager, in rain or sunshine. A CCORDING TO THE T OURIST O FFICE WEBSITE , ‘Bordeaux loves children and the feeling is mutual’, a statement that rings true if you happen to be splashing in the miroir d’eau fountain or dodging the fearless boarders, skaters and cyclists along the quayside on a sunny day. For those with little legs who may not want to discover the city

by foot, there are also a number of options – tram, river boat, little train or open-top bus – to please even the most reluctant sightseers. If admiring the beautiful architecture does not appeal to all the family however, there is no shortage of other activities, a selection of which we’re happy to share.

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Boxers de Bordeaux at the ice-rink. photo GuillauMe bonnaud Carving the board at Hangar Darwin. photo Fabien Cottereau

I LIKE TO MOVE IT It’s hard to ignore the smack and scrape of skateboards as you walk along the 80 metre wide quays of the Garonne River. On a prominent site, the skate park near Tram B, stop Chartrons is split into 4 sections, with a minimum age of 3 years required for the beginner slopes, increasing to 8 years for street, stunt and bowl. Not limited to skaters, rollerblades, scooters and BMX are also welcome but protective headgear is obligatory. Open from 9am until 10pm, the 110m long park ﬁlls up quickly on weekends and entrance is free. Equipment can be rented at shops such as Pierre qui Roule on Place Gambetta. If you’re looking to perfect your technique, head across the river to the Hangar Darwin where the park is in an old warehouse and the main bowl is made of wood. 5 years old is the minimum age requirement here and the fee ranges from €5 entrance to €16 for a 1-hour group lesson or €30 for a private one-on-one. For those who want to use their arms and legs, there are 2-hour tree-top trails at the Tépacap Park in Mérignac. Using zip lines, rope bridges and Tarzan jumps, the course follows 80 trees, over 7 levels, the last being the most difﬁcult. Minimum age is 6 although a 145cm height restriction is imposed for certain trails and everyone is harnessed of course! Those who prefer to keep their feet on the ground can test their orienteering skills over a 90 minute trail and there is even a dedicated outdoor area for 3-6 year olds with a bouncy castle, trampolines

and mini zip wires. Prices start from €5 for orienteering/ €16 for treetop trails. The next door Golf Minature Park could be an option if you want to practice your swing. Open 7 days, the 18-hole outdoor course is for children of 7 years upwards. A round costs €6 for under 12s and €8 for adults. If the weather isn’t playing ball however, the Let’s Jump trampoline park with its indoor freejump, basket ball court, foam pit and dodge ball area could be a better bet. Open all week, the fee changes depending on the day (€8 - €12) and reservations are recommend on weekends. Although classiﬁed as an extreme sport, children as young as 5 can take part and the organizers operate a yellow/red card system whereby those jumping dangerously are told to leave. If this sounds too energetic for your little ones, try nearby Kiddoland which caters for the 0-10 audience. For €9 for a halfday, they can tackle the slides, bouncy castles, trampolines and ball pools while you enjoy a coffee. Closer to the city centre, the ice-ink and bowling alley at Mériadeck is always a popular choice with older children. Established in 1981, the former is also a concert venue and home to the Boxers de Bordeaux ice hockey team. Skating is free for under 5s and €6 for older children, including skate hire. The 16-lane bowling area is open every day and later at weekends and welcomes 8 year olds and upwards. Price per game starts at under €4 on week days to over €6 at weekends.

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Feeling cultured at the Bordeaux Opera House. photo thierry daVid

CULTURE VULTURES Given the importance of culture in Bordeaux overall (in 2014, the annual spend worked out at the equivalent of €305 per head of population), it is unsurprising that there are activities targeting a younger audience and that education is the main focus. As you would expect, all of them take place indoors and most of the main museums offer customized workshops, on weekends and school holidays, always at a reduced price. Most are designed around current exhibitions, such as Bacchanales moderns at the Musée des Beaux-Arts where children as young as 3 have a visit followed by a workshop of mask making and modeling. For older children, the activity can be in the form of a theatre workshop. Costs range from €5-€15. At CAP Sciences on the quays, over 15 workshops are on offer, often throughout the year. Although not directly linked to current exhibitions, the subject matter remains scientiﬁc with sessions ranging from Renewable Energy and Robots for 8 years and over, to Astronomy for 3-6 year olds. A typical session lasts an hour and prices start from €7. Museums are not the only cultural institutions to offer intellectual stimulation for kids: the Opera de Bordeaux has a special calendar of events, running from October to May which allow a younger audience to discover ballet, classical music and opera at a number of venues throughout the city. Generally no longer than an hour in length, the average cost is €10 and some have an age limit.

Everyone is welcome at Cap Sciences. photo GuillauMe bonnaud

Whereas many of the above activities are only available in French, there are some other cultural pursuits which are offered in English, namely walking tours of the city. The Bordeaux Patrimoine Mondial ofﬁces on the Place de la Bourse distribute Piste de Robin maps which encourage 7-12 year olds to learn more about Bordeaux via its buildings and landmarks by answering questions en route. For €5, 9 year olds and older can also visit 2 attractions (Porte Cailhau and the steeple of the Basilica of StMichel) and collect treasure at the ﬁnishing line. With the Imayana tablet, take a step back in time to the 19th century and see the city

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as it once was. Following a circuit of 9 points of interest, children and adults alike can see and hear history on a tour which lasts 2 and a half hours and costs €8. For older children who want a more unusual tour, sign up for Bordeaux Ghost Tours at 9pm on Wednesdays-Saturdays from €15, where during the course of 2 hours you will see amongst other things, where the guillotine was during the French revolution and the site where witches were burnt at the stake. ON A BUDGET Entertaining the family does not have to cost a lot, depending on the age of your audience. The city’s playgrounds are well maintained – head to the pirate ship at the Jardin Public for some free fun and if the rain arrives, take refuge in the children’s library on the far side of the park which stocks some English books. The 28 hectare Parc Bordelais is also worth a visit, for its little farm, electric cars and puppet theatre. On the Right Bank, entrance to the Jardin Botanique is also free and includes access to the glasshouses and temporary exhibitions. If you prefer animals to plants, take a trip to the zoo at Pessac. Open every day until 5.30pm, the park is home to a number of big cats as well as giraffes and zebras and even a couple of dinosaur raptors! Children under 3 years go free. SPLASHING OUT If you feel like taking a dip during your stay, the city has 4 indoor and 2 outdoor swimming pools, most of which have a secure paddling area for kids and dedicated family changing rooms. The entrance fee for a family starts at €6 and remember that swimming trunks are not allowed (only shorts) and that everyone is required to wear a swim hat. For a bigger thrill, head to the Wave Surf Café where in 22°C

◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆

Bordeaux Tourist Office 12 Cours du 30 Juillet, Bordeaux, +33 (0)5 56 00 66 00 Pierre Qui Roule, 32 place Gambetta, Bordeaux, +33 (0)5 57 85 80 87 Hangar Darwin 87 Quai des Queyries, Bordeaux, +33 (0)9 53 01 86 22 Tépacap Park 10 Rue Archimède, Mérignac, +33 (0)6 09 53 33 38 Golf Minature Park 5 Rue Hipparque, Mérignac, +33 (0)6 78 08 63 10 Let’s Jump 49 Rue Pierre Baour, Bordeaux, +33 (0)5 56 51 08 41 Kiddoland, 280 Boulevard Alfred Daney, Bordeaux, +33(0)5 56 04 00 04 Patinoire de Mériadeck 95 Cours Maréchal Juin, Bordeaux, +33 (0)5 57 81 43 70 Musée des Beaux-Arts 20 Cours d'Albret, Bordeaux, +33 (0)5 56 10 20 56 CAP Sciences Hangar 20, Quai de Bacalan, Bordeaux, +33 (0)5 56 01 07 07

Plunge into the Piscine Judaïque. photo philippe tariS

water, those aged 8 years and upwards can learn how to surf and body board on an indoor wave. Short wetsuits can be hired onsite for €2 and an introductory 1-hour session costs €23. Exploring the city’s waterways is another great way to get your feet wet. Bordeaux Canoe offers 2-hour excursions on the Garonne River in kayaks and canoes, stopping off to discover the traditional fishing huts and to admire the beautiful 19th façade. Participants must be 10 years or older and prices start from €25. Finally, if you want to impress a surly teenager, look no further than Fighters Academy where 15 year olds and over can fly an F-16 fighter jet simulator, dressed for the part in a khaki green jumpsuit and helmet. Flights last 30 minutes and the experience can feel very realistic, especially when it comes to dealing with enemy aircraft and taking part in a dogfight! Prices start at €59 with student reductions available.

◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆

Opéra de Bordeaux Grand Théâtre, Place de la Comédie, Bordeaux, +33 (0)5 56 00 85 95 Bordeaux Patrimoine Mondial 2-8 place de la Bourse, Bordeaux, +33 (0)5 56 48 04 24 Bordeaux Ghost Tours Place de la Comédie, Bordeaux, +33 (0)7 83 77 06 25 Bibliothèque du Jardin Public Place Bardineau, Bordeaux, +33 (0)5 56 81 38 91 Parc Bordelais Rue du Bocage, Bordeaux Piscine Judaïque, 164 Rue Judaïque, Bordeaux, +33 (0)5 56 51 48 31 Piscine du Grand-Parc 60 Cours de Luze, Bordeaux, +33 (0)5 56 90 89 40 Wave Surf Café 174 Cours du Médoc, Bordeaux, +33 (0)9 83 29 67 74 Bordeaux Canoe 10 Rue Louis Blériot, Bègles, +33 (0)6 50 46 10 23 Fighters Academy 5 cours du Chapeau Rouge, Bordeaux, +33 (0)5 56 23 17 05

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Exploring Bages by bike. PHOTO JÉRÔME MONDIÈRE

◆ —— DISCOVERY —— ◆

Médoc Base Camp 2 CAROLINE MATTHEWS

Bages is like a French idyllic village. Jean-Michel Cazes is our guide. A first-time visitor to Bages could be forgiven for thinking they had stumbled onto a film set of a small French village, with its perfect shop fronts and old paving stone surface. Yet the hamlet, located half a mile from Pauillac was a “collection of ruins: empty, unusable houses and sheds” before the Cazes family decided to invest in it over 10 years ago. “In fact, Bages has been a village of wine for many centuries,” Jean-Michel tells us from his ground floor office which faces the square. “It was home to many immigrant

basque and spanish families, working in the neighboring wineries and vineyards and, as a child, I would spend summers here with my parents. Following studies in petroleum and a career in technology, he returned to work at LynchBages in 1973 and thus began a phase of modernization of the winery. The vineyard area also grew as he was approached by descendants of local winemakers who wanted to sell up. “I didn’t realize until later that the purchase of this land also included houses in Bages.” Not until an architect suggested razing a large area of the village in order to

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Jean-Michel Cazes, owner of the village. PHOTO D.R.

construct extra storage space did Jean-Michel understand that this dilapidated and abandoned area belonged to him. That was 2002 and Thierry Marx was already making a name for himself next door at Cordeillan-Bages. Over a drink with the chef, Jean-Michel came up with the idea of establishing a bakery on the site of Bages. “Thierry’s father was a baker, as was my grandfather and we knew that we would have at least one customer, in the form of Cordeillan-Bages”. A year later, the Baba D’Andrea opened, named after Jean-Michel’s grandmother and her famous Rum Baba dessert. The popularity of the enterprise with the local community encouraged him to revisit some ideas which had been inspired whilst visiting wineries in Australia and California a few years previously. A typical French brasserie “We were already welcoming wine tourists to Lynch-Bages, and in the early days, anyone who visited was also invited to stay for lunch. Many visitors asked to buy wine after their tour and it was frustrating to not have a cellar-door policy, as wineries do in other countries.” The desire to meet this demand, coupled with a notion of a buvette, where one could stop for a coffee or a glass of wine, formed the foundations for Café Lavinal and Bages Bazaar which opened their doors in 2006. Taking its name from Jean-Michel’s other grandmother, Café Lavinal is a typical French brasserie designed in a 1930’s style with red benches and a long zinc bar. The menu changes per the season and is designed in collaboration with Jean-Luc Rocha, the Michelin-starred chef of Cordeillan-Bages. What pleases Jean-Michel is the fact that it attracts a mix of residents and tourists alike, affording visitors the opportunity to mix with wine makers and châteaux owners. Across the

Enjoying a coffee au comptoir. PHOTO JÉRÔME MONDIÈRE

The Aladdin’s cave of Bages Bazaar. PHOTO JÉRÔME MONDIÈRE

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Stopping for lunch at Café Lavinal. PHOTO JÉRÔME MONDIÈRE

Breakfast amongst the vines at Château Cordeillan-Bages / A warm welcome at the 4* hotel. PHOTO JÉRÔME MONDIÈRE

square, the Bages Bazaar is a one-stop-gift shop for any oenophile. In addition to the wines of the Cazes family estates, visitors can ﬁnd regional specialties and a range of books on wine and the Bordeaux region. Add clothes, jewellery and accessories to the mix and you have a shop that is also frequented by the local population. Over the past 10 years the village has continued to grow, with the arrival of butcher Yves Bruneau in 2007 and Viniv in 2012. For Jean-Michel, the arrival of the latter venture, which allows private individuals the possibility of making their own Bordeaux wine, was a key point for the whole concept of Bages. “Setting up Viniv in the cellars which were originally used for Haut-Bages Averous, restored the function of winemaking to the village. Through Viniv, wine lovers can access grapes from some of the best vineyards throughout the region and play the role of winemaker. As the enterprise attracts likeminded people, it reﬂects one of my core values, that making wine is about making friends!” But why should visitors make the trip to Bages? For JeanMichel, the answer is simple. “It’s a base camp for activities in the area. As well as providing services not found elsewhere, the village is steeped in the history of winemaking and important

for understanding the spirit of the Médoc.” He also hopes they leave feeling that they met some interesting people, and maybe having even spotted a famous face or two, if the photos of wellknown celebrities in the village enjoying a glass of Lynch-Bages are anything to go by. Stars in the wines Wine isn’t the only thing of ﬁrst growth quality in Pauillac. Since 1989, Château Cordeillan-Bages has been enticing visitors an hour north of Bordeaux to experience its 19th century chartreuse and Michelin-starred restaurant. And it is easy to see why. The sense of calm you experience on arrival at the 4-star, Relais & Châteaux country house remains with you throughout its salons, terraces and heated outdoor pool. The Italian kingsize beds and designer furniture (think Frank Gehry, Andrée Putman and Philippe Starck) of its 28 rooms and suites reinforce the comfort of the hotel which even has its own wine, made from the vines surrounding it. Although owned by the Cazes family of Lynch-Bages, the face of the hotel is undoubtedly that of Chef Jean-Luc Rocha. Through his passion for the best produce of the region (caviar d’Aquitaine, oysters from Arcachon, foie gras from the Landes,

“There are over 1500 references in the wine cellar”

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The hotel’s wine cellar with over 1,500 references. PHOTO PIERRE GRENET

Chef Jean-Luc Rocha. PHOTO MATHIEU MAMONTOFF The salon of Château Cordeillan-Bages. PHOTO JÉRÔME MONDIÈRE

blue lobster from the Atlantic) and his innovative approach, he has retained the 2 Michelin star status of the restaurant since taking charge in 2010. Jean-Luc imagines each course so that it could be paired with wines from near and far (there are over 1500 references in the wine cellar) and describes his cuisine as being “a game of textures and ingredients; respecting the products of nature while making them exciting and elegant”. Menus start from €45 for lunch/€90 for dinner and they change every 6 weeks. Reﬂecting the art de vivre of the Cazes family, children are very welcome in the restaurant (and the kitchen). Be sure to ask for a signed chef’s hat that they can wear whilst enjoying the unmissable chocolate dessert in the shape of a mouse! For guests looking for special experiences during their stay, there is also the possibility of a two-and-a-half-hour cooking course with Jean-Luc where he demonstrates his skills and shares his inspiration regarding certain produce. If wine is what you’re looking for, the possibilities range from tasting classes and ‘blend-your-own’ workshops to private visits of nearby grand cru classé châteaux. And there is no need to appoint a designated driver – the hotel can arrange whatever transport you require, whether it be by helicopter, vintage car or horsedrawn carriage. Warm Foie Gras in a cereal crust with Port reduction and chesnut puree. PHOTO THURIÈS GASTRONOMIE MAGAZINE, PASCAL LATTES

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◆ —— WINE —— ◆

Find your way

amongst the vineyards 2 MICHELLE DE LA ROSA LEWIS

A millwind in the Médoc vineyards. PHOTO STÉPHANE LARTIGUE

The region is so unapologetically spoilt for choice when it comes to wine, vineyards and castles that it has not one, but six official wine territories.

The lavish Hotel de Sèze is located the centre of the city.

◆ Bordeaux city-centre

PHOTO ARCHIVES QUENTIN SALINIER

Bordeaux is first and foremost a dock. A dock in which foreign traders during the 18C would haggle the price for their best vintages. Irish, Danish, Suisse and Dutch merchants would then sell their produce from Bordeaux all around the world. As

the wine trade developed, so did the city as well as its reputation. The neighbourhood called the Chartrons, along the quay, in the north of Bordeaux, was where it all started. To begin the itinerary, if you are not in a hurry, take a couple of hours to admire the river front and its 18th century facades, classified as a UNESCO heritage site, either on foot, by boat or on a soft top bus. Do not forget to check out the view from the bridge Pont de Pierre as well as the Porte Cailhau which commemorated the victory of Charles VII in Fornoue in Italy (yes, the French did once have kings and queens before they chopped their heads off!). Walk along the riverfront until you get to the Water mirror, in front of the Place de la Bourse. Just behind this elegant square you will stumble on the backstreets of the neighbourhood Saint Pierre. Allow yourself to get lost, besides, a map may not be very useful anyway. Bordeaux invites you to look up rather than down. Beautiful buildings, seductive squares and alluring alleys await! For your afternoon activity, rendez-vous at the tourism office (departure 13:45 on Mondays and Fridays) to discover two authentic Medoc castles. You will be taken by bus to one of the family properties and your visit will start in the vineyards, con-

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tinue in the wine cellar and end on a tasting session- bare in mind that this part of Bordeaux is known for its red wine. Another stop is programmed at a different castle where you will continue wine-tasting, this time a prestigious “Grand Cru Classé” with mouth-watering local products… cheese, fresh bread and saucisson! Where to stay? Try the five star Grand Hotel which could not be more central- just in front of the Grand Théâtre- where Gordon Ramsey can cook you dinner! Another two beautiful hotels are the Hotel de Sèze on the allée de Tourny or the Boutique hotel, a 7 minutes walk from the Grand Théâtre. Hungry or thirsty? Make a reservation at Le Chapon Fin, a gastronomic restaurant. For private meetings with a cosy touch, ask for The Petit Salon.

The Chapon Fin collects its michelin stars. PHOTO CLAUDE PETIT

◆ Bordeaux’s Entre-deux-Mers

The Grande-Sauve abbey in the village of Créon. PHOTO ARCHIVES JEAN-JACQUES SAUBI

Buy local French products at the Marché de Cadillac. PHOTO ARCHIVES CLAUDE PETIT

Entre-deux-Mers, literally, “between two tides” derives its name from its location: between the rivers Garonne and Dordogne. It is found to the south-east of Bordeaux. The origin of wine production in this region is rather peculiar. It was the monks of the abbey de la Sauve-Majeure, now in ruins, who worked the vineyards and established commercial links with England. More than 50% of Bordeaux’s wine is produced here. The white wine is particularly reputed. Why not take a day trip and learn the French “art de vivre”, something you can take with you and impress guests with back home? With the Maison des Vins de Cadillac, under the skilful eye of the chef Olivier Straehli, you will pick the ingredients for your chosen recipes at the open-air market of Cadillac. After a cooking class, during which you will learn the correct gestures to implement, comes the important business of wine matching. Finally, succumb to your senses… eat and drink! The trip continues with a visit to a Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux castle and another wine-tasting session. Departure from the tourism office at 9:15 saturdays then june to september. Never-ending vineyards, farmhouses, small ruines off the beaten track and imposing strong castles seem to be taken out of a fairy tale. Check out the former Benedictine Grande-Sauve abbey. It is located in the beautiful village of Créon where it is well worth stopping for lunch. Do you need a hint for a restaurant? Try La Table which not only holds acoustic concerts every Friday in July and August, it also offers tapas every weekend during the summer months. Where to stay? Check out the small 18th century family dwelling on a 12 hectare wine terrain, La Cour du Château, or try the four star old holiday cottage Gite du Domaine de Cabirac.

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An arial view of the Château de la Brède. PHOTO ARCHIVES JEAN-JACQUES SAUBI

◆ Graves & Sauternes

The history of wine in Bordeaux goes back to 1AD when the first ever vine stock was planted in the Graves subregion located towards the south of Bordeaux. Sauternes is part of this subregion. Not only is the region the birthplace of wine but nowadays, it is the only place where you can find the prestigious Cru Classés in red, white and rosé. If you like French châteaux mixed with a bit of history, the Château de la Brède is an unmissable stop. Once home to the philosopher Montesquieu, this stunning fortress is surrounded by a pittoresque moat. Montesquieu described it himself as “the finest rural space that I know”. Where to stay? Treat yourself to a night in Château de Lantic. Beautiful rooms and even more beautiful surroundings. Hungry or thirsty? Try, La Grand’Vigne, the two michelin star restaurant at the hotel Les Sources de Caudalie in Smith Haut Lafitte… and if you can, take a sneaky peak at the inside swimming pool! If you prefer a bistro-style meal, they also offer La Table du Lavoir with an old wash house in the centre of the glass room to pay tribute to the winegrower’s wives who used to do their washing there. La Grand’Vigne boasts two michelin stars. PHOTO ARCHIVES PHILIPPE TARIS Vin de Sauternes. PHOTO ARCHIVES THIERRY DAVID

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◆ Médoc

This section of Bordeaux stretches from the north of the city to the Grave. The golden era of the Médoc vineyards dates back to the XVII and XVIII centuries. The first stop proposed is The Winery in Arsac-en-Médoc where wine tasting has a personal touch. If you are the kind of person that takes half an hour to decide which bottle of wine to buy for a dinner, here you can discover and understand your individual preferred wine flavours. You will try six very different varieties and learn about the wines that suit each flavour. A heart-stopping castle in this region is the Château d’Agassac in Ludon-Médoc. It is worth a visit if French prince and princess-style castles is what you are after. They even offer another wine tasting session with a twist- here you can get the best of two worlds… wine and chocolate! Where to stay? A captivating XVIII century stone hotel, the Château de l’isle in Castelnau-de-Médoc, is more than worth a visit. Another option lies in Château Cordeillan-Bages in Pauillac, the restaurant is run by the famous Jean-Luc Rocha.

Take a rest in the luxury golf du Médoc resort in Le Pian-Médoc. PHOTO D.R.

The imposing Château d’Agassac. PHOTO ARCHIVES STEPHANE LARTIGUE

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The Château de Vayres and its gardens from up above. PHOTO ARCHIVES LAURENT THEILLET

◆ Saint-Emilion, Pomerol, Fronsac & Libournais

A walk in the narrow streets of Saint-Emilion. PHOTO ARCHIVES JEAN JACQUES SAUBI

The Dordogne river outlines part of the commune of Libourne. To the north-east you stumble upon Pomerol and to the east you have Saint-Emilion. Here, the post-card worthy vineyards are compact, one after the other The most common variety of vine which amounts to 65% of the areas’ production is the red merlot. Saint-Emilion vineyard is famous for its medieval architecture and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. A morning walk around the commune stopping by the Monolithic church carved from a limestone cliff is a must. One castle to take note of: Chateau de Vayres, which previously belonged to Henry IV. It has a beautiful view onto the Dordogne river and both typical Middle Age-style and French-style gardens. If you are a fan of French-English history, the commune of Castillon-la-Bataille is the site on which the last battle of the Hundred Year’ War took place in 1453. Where to stay ? Chateau de Courtebotte at Saint-Jean-de-Blaignac, next to Saint-Emilion, it has a magnificent view of the Dordogne river.

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â&#x2014;&#x2020; Blaye & Bourg

Rewind your watch and go back back in time to these communes rich in history. Take a stop off at the pre-historic era with the caves of Pair-Non-Pair in Prignac-et-Marcamps and appreciate their cave-art. These caves date further back than those of Lascaux! If you forward the clock, just a little, take a stop at Plassac and check out its roman ruins. In Blaye and Bourg you can find two rare varieties of wine not commonly found in the Gironde region: the white merlot and the colombard. Amongst the special places to visit : the 17th century Vauban de Blaye fortress in the commune of Blaye. It is one of the stops on the various wine cruises that take you from Blaye to Bourg on boat, and back, on bus. These tours depart from Bordeaux centre and are accompanied by an informative commentary and of course, wine tasting. If you are in Blaye, from July to September you have the opportunity to taste different wines and prawns taken from the local estuary. In the Pair-non Pair cave close from Blaye. PHOTO ARCHIVES D.R.

Vauban citadelle in Blaye, from the UNESCO World heritage. PHOTO FABIEN COTTEREAU

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◆ —— CYCLING —— ◆

Cycling the Bassin d’Arcachon from Cap Ferret to Pyla 2 JANE ANSON

There are over 200 kilometres (125 miles) of cycling routes around Arcachon Bay, taking you through beaches, salt marshes, oyster villages and pine forests. With over 35 places to hire bicycles along the way, it's perfect for discovering Bordeaux’s hidden corners.

Cap Ferret. PHOTO LAURENT THEILLET

Le Teich. PHOTO FRANCK PERROGON

PICKING OUT THE SOUNDS AMONG THE SILENCE quickly becomes my favourite activity as I wind along the Arcachon cycling trail. In the morning, when the wet earth starts to steam in the rising sun, birds have invariably beaten me to the trail, and the whirling of the bicycle plays second fiddle to the hoots and chatters of terns and curlews, and a host of other birds that I have no hope of identifying. By lunchtime, the birds are almost drowned out by the ciccadas, whose buzzing becomes as insistent as the pleas of my two children to stop for a picnic. The evening cycles – we rarely go for the whole day at once, but pick different moments over the week that we are giving over to the cycle trails – are my favourite, This is when the rustling of unseen animals in the undergrowth add a sense of mystery and urgency to this gentlest of journeys, and the soli-

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L’Herbe. PHOTO FRANCK PERROGON

tary catcalls of the evening birds remind us that it is time to find an oyster shack or a beachside restaurant before heading off to our well-earned beds. These sheltered trails around Arcachon Bay form a tiny part of the 1,200km (745m) Vélodyssée route that runs along the Atlantic coast from Brittany all the way down the western coast of France to the Spanish border. The Arcachon Bay takes a gentle bite out of the coast around two-thirds of the way down France, forming an inland sea that runs from the oysters huts of Cap Ferret village through a series of 26 bustling villages along the shoreline such

“Allow four or five days to do it justice” as Canon, Petit Piquey, Andernos-les-Bains, Biganos, La Teste du Buch, Gujan-Mestras, La Teich and finally the Art Deco splendour of Arcachon – the most sizeable town that you’ll come across on the whole 200km of the bay. If you are brave enough to attempt the entire loop, I would suggest allowing four or five days to do it justice, so you can take a fairly leisurely four or five hours cycling per day, allowing plenty of time to stop to explore the many sights that dot this part of the Côte d’Argent. It is easy to pick up the trail at any of the villages, as all have hire shops with bikes for children and adults, and most have trailer bikes or separate trailer add-ons for the smallest mem-

Gujan-Mestras. PHOTO PHILIPPE TARIS

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bers of the family. But for the grand tour, start out by hiring your bike either at Cap Ferret village (breakfast first at one of the restaurants that sit besides the jetty) or in Arcachon town centre, from where you can catch one of the regular small boats that plough the half-hour trip inbetween the two ends of the bay, and then wind your way back to your starting point. If doing this in summer, plan your bed and breakfasts stops along the way well in advance, as things get pretty busy in the high season. I like to start out cycling from Cap Ferret because I love the peaceful unspoilt chic of this side of the Bay, together with the dense pine forest that accompanies you as you start off the trail. Make sure you explore the lighthouse in Cap Ferret village before leaving, climbing up its 258 steps to admire the view over the entire bay that is afforded from the top. Perfect to watch the fishing tugs and wooden pinasse boats gliding their way across the water, and to attempt to pick out the cycle path that winds around the coast. With a little imagination, it’s almost possible to trace the path along the entire triangularshaped bassin, from the muddy tidal flats that sit around the towns of Biganos and Le Teich at its innermost part, right up to the glistening sand banks as its heads back out to the Atlantic beaches. And as an added bonus, it doesn’t look too dauntingly far from up here. There are constant surprises all along the route. One of my favourite spots is hidden behind the perfectly-preserved fishing villages of Le Petit Piquey and L’Herbe, where you will also

Le Co(o)rniche ◆ Opened by William and Sophie Téchoueyres along with

Arcachon, plage Thiers. PHOTO FRANCK PERROGON

designer Philippe Starck in 2008, this hotel restaurant has got to have one of the most seductive views of anywhere in France. In fact, scratch that, simply anywhere. Set in a former hunting lodge, high on a promonotory overlooking the ocean, this continues to attract the chicest summer crowds as it approaches its eighth birthday. Sit out on the terrace, or better yet, in the infinity pool , for a view over Europe’s highest sand dune and the Atlantic Ocean that from this point has a steady sprint down to the Spanish border. The terrace also gives you a perfect view of the Banc d’Arguin nature reserve (basically a spit of sand just off the coast), and the 15 mile peninsula of Cap Ferret that sits directly opposite, spliced between the calm bay and the rougher waters of the Ocean beyond. Endless shades of blues, yellows, greys, pinks greet you. Starck imagine this place to be his own hideway by the ocean, and filled it with things he loves – open spaces, industrial design, high ceilings, natural leather, long wooden tables, Icon and Hudson chairs, and a huge collection of Vallauris pottery. Recently enlarged, La Co(o)rniche now has 27 rooms, the newest ones built on stilts out over the Dune de Pyla like the tiny oyster huts that are dotted around the entire

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Villa algérienne. PHOTO FRANCK PERROGON

Le Co(o)rniche. PHOTOS LAURENT THEILLET

Arcachon Bay. Tiny touches are what make the difference here – on the back on walls in bedrooms and corridors are framed pictures of tide tables, a reminder you of the surrounding ocean and the hundreds of fishermen who live from it. The rooms have views of either dune, bay or ocean, and are signature Starck white with touches of colour coming through cushions, vases, artworks. The restaurant is open all day, and attracts locals driving up from Bordeaux and Biarritz as well as hotel guests attacking the heaped plates of seafood and the everchanging cocktail list. Since the addition of extra rooms a year or so ago, La Co(o)rniche also has a Carita spa and a Kure Bazaar nail bar. Nighttimes are lively here, with the bar in full swing and the lights on the terrace glistening brightly, but the most perfect time of day is early morning, when the sunlight is fragile, just breaking through the mist, and the hotel terrace is yours alone. This is when the neighbouring dune, that shares its ocean-looking face with La Co(o)rniche, looks the most imposing, and the most inviting. 46 Avenue Louis Gaume, 33115. Tel: +33 (0)5 56 22 72 11. www.lacoorniche-pyla.com

find some of the best oyster spots in the area in the form of a series of clapboard huts that have been converted to welcoming waterside eateries. Once you’ve torn yourself away from the freshly-shucked oysters, walk over to the Chapelle of the Villa algérienne. Built by real estate mogul Léon Lesca in the 1860s, this chapel once stood as within the gardens of his mansion, built in honour of his love affair with all things Moorish. The house has long been demolished, but the romantic spires of its tiny chapel remain. My children, on the other hand, would vote for the La Teich bird sanctuary. You can park up the bikes outside and wander along paths that take you at least part of the way round the 120-hectares of woods, meadow, salt marshes and lakes that hide hundreds of species of birds. Worth knowing that just outside – rather unromantically on the other side of the car park – is a small but super user-friendly inland beach, which is perfect for younger children to play safely.

“Oyster farming remains at the heart of Arcachon Bay” A little further along the coast is the Gujan-Mestras oyster museum; an essential visit to understand an activity that remains at the heart of the Arcachon Bay today, just as it has since the 19th century. A large slice of France's 130,000-ton oyster harvest is produced in the right here in this tidal estuary ever year, and the Larosse harbour in Gujan-Mestras is still a working port, where you can watch oysters being hauled out of boats and cleaned up in the many small huts that line the water. Look out for rows of limed tiles where the oyster spats are harvested. There is even an oyster festival if you are here in August, when over 100,000 visitors enjoy wine, music and tastings over five days.

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But the best part of this cycle route is simply enjoying being outside, watching the ever-changing colours of the bay and picking your way down sandy paths to empty stretches of beach. Make sure that you take a small detour at the end of the trail to head to the Dune de Pyla; Europe’s highest sand dune. Pyla is just a little further down the coast from Arcachon, where the cycle path officially comes to an end among the Victorian-era villas and rush of beachside restaurants that form Arcachon town centre. To get there, you must join the trail that continues to head down the Atlantic coast towards the Spanish border but it’s easy to do so, and within just a few kilometres you get to the 110 metre high, 3 kilometre long high dune. Climb to the top for that final bit of exertion after your bike ride (you’ll be in great shape by now) then collapse on the sand and just sit peacefully, taking in the blues, greys and soft charcoals of the water in this bewitching spot.

Beach Club Pereire ◆ From April through to October, one of the buzziest spots along the coast is the Club Place Pereire, a pop-up beach club restaurant and bar that is set on Pereire beach in Arcachon. On the warmest evenings, sit with your toes toasting in the sand at the long outside wooden bar, watching the sun sink into the ocean, or head inside to the restaurant that is set inside an impossibly glamorous highbeamed cabane. Huge windows give you bracing views over the Atlantic ocean while you while away the hours with a glass of rosé and a groaning plate of local freshlycaught seafood. Perfection, made even better because it’s only here for six months of the year. As the season ends, the cabane will be taken down piece by piece, and stored carefully away until summer comes again. 12 Boulevard de la Mer, Arcachon. Tel : +33 (0)5 57 16 59 13 http://www.clubplagepereire.com Open daily from 10-midnight.

Beach Club Pereire. PHOTO CLAUDE PETIT

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◆ —— WINE —— ◆ Château Pavie. PHOTO MICHEL LACROIX

Saint-Emilion, the contemporary and ancestral wine cellars 2 BRINDA BOURHIS

How to visit the Unesco town through its wine roads SAINT-EMILION needs no introduction, this UNESCO heritage site is home to some of the greatest wine estates of France. Its landscape has changed over time, where modern architecture mingles with ancient underground cellars.

Whether you prefer state of the art wineries designed by world famous architects or traditional chateaux steeped in history, you’ll find below some great places to visit on the wine route of Saint-Emilion. THE CONTEMPORARY WINE TRAIL

◆ Château La Dominique

PHOTO STÉPHANE KLEIN

This modern winery was recently renovated by architect Jean Nouvel. The shiny red façade of the cellar was Nouvel’s way of portraying the colour of wine. It houses a 600m2 vat room with a huge bay window and modern tronconic vats. La Dominique is primarily a place where wine is made, but it also has a restaurant called La Terrasse Rouge that is open to the public. As the name implies, the restaurant is in a covered part of the roof terrace that offers a panoramic view over the vineyards. Visitors can enjoy lunch or dinner after a complete tour of the winery and tasting of the wines from the domain. Château La Dominique 33330 Saint-Emilion Tel : +33 (0)5 57 51 31 36 contact@vignobles.fayat.com

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◆ Château Faugères

Château Faugères Saint-Etienne de Lisse 33330 Saint Emilion Tel : +33 (0)5 57 40 34 99 info@vignobles-silvio-denz.com www.chateau-faugeres.com

PHOTO JEAN JACQUES SAUBI

The monumental winery designed by Mario Botta sits on top of the plateau overlooking the vines of Chateau Faugères. Also called the ‘cathedral of wine’ Faugères has created another landmark in St Emilion that stands out to such an extent that it cannot be ignored by any visitors on the wine route. The owner, Silvio Denz is a perfume designer and owner of Lalique, famous for its crystal creations. His constant quest for quality is reflected in the winery where the latest technology is applied to elaborate fine wines of the region. Tasting and visits are available by booking online on the chateau’s website.

◆ Château de Ferrand

This 17th century estate is a perfect combination of old and new. On the outside it portrays the stone-clad traditional Bordeaux style building and on the inside it invites you to discover a newly renovated cellar designed by architect Guy Troprès. Tastings are held in a modern room that gives out to the barrel cellar with large bay windows that illuminates the space. Wine tourism is taken seriously at De Ferrand, where one can not only take a simple tour of the contemporary interior but also sign up for workshops to discover the art of blending, caviar and wine tasting as well as food and wine pairings with a qualified sommelier and Michelin-star chef. Château de Ferrand Saint-Hippolyte 33330 Saint-Emilion Tel: +33 (0)5 57 74 47 11 info@chateaudeferrand.com www.chateaudeferrand.com Harvests. PHOTO CLAUDE PETIT

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THE ANCESTRAL WINE TRAIL

◆ Château Beau-Séjour Bécot

Situated on the western side of St-Emilion in the old parish of Saint-Martin de Mazerat, Chateau Beau-Séjour Becot is on a site that has been devoted to wine-making since GalloRoman times. Monks during the Middle-Ages were known to produce fine wines from grapes grown on the exceptional clay-limestone soils. Today, the château is classified “Premier Grand Cru Classé B” and is owned by the friendly Bécot family. It is a privilege to pay a visit to this prestigious estate where tradition still has its place alongside advanced technology in winemaking. Tours are available all year round by appointment and even on Saturdays during the summer and last an hour and 15 minutes. This immersion includes a presentation of the vineyard, a visit of the winemaking facilities and barrel cellar, the ancient underground cellars and ends with a tasting of the wine – a complete way of discovering one of the gems of this wine region! Château Beau-Séjour Bécot 33330 Saint-Emilion Tél. +33 (0)5 57 74 46 87 contact@beausejour-becot.com www.beausejour-becot.com Underground cellars of the château. PHOTO ARCHIVES CLAUDE PETIT

In the heart of the village of St-Emilion, Château Guadet has a long history that dates back to the French revolution where a member of the Guadet family was said to have used the magnificent underground cellars to hide his companions before being guillotined in 1794. A visit of the cellar is one full of history that now belongs to the Lignac family and has been the case since 1844. Ideally situated within walking distance of the main road (of the same name) that crosses the village of Saint-Emilion, visitors can discover the underground quarries where the wines are stored in ideal temperatures. Above ground is the house where the current owners still live – Guadet really does takes you back in time. Château Guadet 4 Rue Guadet 33330 Saint-Emilion Tel : +33 (0)5 57 74 40 04 www.chateau-guadet-saintemilion.fr

PHOTO ARCHIVE PHILIPPE TARIS

◆ Château Guadet

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CrĂŠdit photo Philippe Maltete

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◆ Château de Pressac

Château de Pressac Saint Etienne de Lisse Tel: +33 (0)5 57 40 18 02 visite@chateaudepressac.com - www.chateaudepressac.com

PHOTO ARCHIVES STÉPHANE KLEIN

Founded in the Middle Ages, Château de Pressac is perched on a hillock offering visitors a majestic view of the superb vines of the appellation. The chateau holds deep historical roots, with a key event that occurred in 1453: the surrender following the French victory at the Battle of Castillon La Bataille, putting an end to the Hundred Years War, took place at Château de Pressac. Visits are organized practically all year round and include a tour of the courtyard where the guide explains the story behind this magnificent edifice. This is followed by a tour of the cellar and concludes with a tasting of the wines. The property has been awarded various medals for its landscape, park and architecture – an estate to look out for.

Practical information Tourist Office of Saint-Emilion Check out the website for a multitude of wine tours that can be done by car, bike or foot. Place des Créneaux 33330 Saint-Emilion Tel : +33 (0)5 57 55 28 28 www.saint-emilion-tourisme.com accueil@saint-emilion-tourisme.com

Maison du Vin de Saint-Emilion Here you’ll find everything around the universe of the wines of the area including a wine shop and wine school. Place Pierre Meyrat 33330 Saint-Emilion Tel: +33 (0)5 57 55 50 55 www.maisonduvinsaintemilion.com

Events in and around Saint-Emilion in 2016

Below is a list of some other wineries in Saint-Emilion that have recently been re-designed by talented architects. Further details can be found on the tourist office website www.saint-emilion-tourisme.com : • Château Villemaurine • Château Barde Haut • Château Soutard • Château La Croizille • Château Pavie • Château Cheval Blanc (only open to professionals but worth seeing from the outside)

PHOTO ARCHIVES STÉPHANE KLEIN

At room Château Cheval Blanc. PHOTO STÉPHANE KLEIN

30 April and 1st May: Open doors ‘Châteaux de Saint-Emilion’ 22 to 24 July: Saint-Emilion Jazz Festival 17 and 18 September: European Heritage Days 18 September: Harvest festival 14 to 16 October: Hot-air balloon tours above Saint-Emilion

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At The Golf du Médoc you have a choice between two 18-hole courses. PHOTO D.R.

◆ —— GOLF —— ◆

Where the grass is always greener 2 MICHELLE DE LA ROSA LEWIS

Bordeaux is so much more than fine wine and dining. As if its culinary patrimoine was not enough, the region also excels in something very different: it is home to some of the most spectacular 18 hole golf courses in Europe. ◆ THE GRAND SAINT-EMILIONNAIS GOLF CLUB

This golf course has added the icing on the cake to the regions golﬁng offer. Inaugurated in October 2015 after over fours years of construction work, the site has already been picked up by Golf Magazine USA and Golf World UK. The proud owner of the 102 hectare golf course (250 acres!) is the Mourgue d’Algue family who has collected over 80 national and international titles over four generations. For the pioneering golf en-

thusiast, Gaëtan Mourgue d’Algue, who founded the Trophée Lancôme, his project is “not only the realisation of an entire family’s dream, but also an opportunity to put all the different facets of the sport in the spotlight”. The course is a beauty in itself. It is sketched into the surroundings of Saint Emilion- a breathtaking commune classiﬁed as a Unesco heritage site. The site’s internationally reputed architect Tom Doak once said, “My goal is to make the

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◆ THE GOLF DU MÉDOC

The Grand Saint-Emilionnais Golf Club is the most recent golf club to open in the region. PHOTO SYLVAIN PETITJEAN

most out of this magniﬁcent site without ever changing its inherent beauty”. The vines stretch out into the horizon like tight knit braids amongst the woodland and meadows and two elements act as the site’s crown jewels: one, a 19th century ruin in the heart of the domain and the other, a château peering over the tree canopy on the high ground once belonging to the philosopher Montaigne. This site wins the eco-friendly bonus: the greens are completely sustained by rainwater collected in two artiﬁcial lakes and the turf is low on water consumption and fertiliser! Thumbs up!

Two courses. 36 holes. That means 36 different bottles of wine. You got it, each hole is sponsored by a different chateau. You will be spoilt for choice. Here you can combine the pleasure of wine-tasting and golf playing… now, that is the best of both worlds! The Grand Prix Schweppes PGA, held here every year, gathers the best professional players, both male and female, from the entire country. Located to the north of Bordeaux, two courses are on offer: “Chateaux” designed by Bill Coore and “Vines” designed by Rod Whitman (Bill Coore’s assistant during the creation of the first course). The Chateaux course was allocated position number 15 out of 100 by Golf World for the best continental European golf course and the site itself was classified as France’s number one golf course in 2014. The Golf du Médoc’s bonus point goes to its luxury package. We are talking about its four star hotel with 90 rooms and a spa with a heated swimming pool, hammam, sensorial shower and two massage rooms. There is also a seminar space and an ultra-modern training centre.

Enjoy the luxury resort next to the Médoc golf course. PHOTO D.R.

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Enjoy the mountains in the background at Makila golf club. PHOTO D.R.

The architect Rocky Roquemore designed the course at Makila Golf Club. PHOTO D.R.

The Golf Blue Green Seignosse has the country’s first par six! PHOTO BRUNO MAGNES

◆ MAKILA GOLF CLUB IN BAYONNE

Situated at the doorsteps of Bayonne and 10 minutes away from Biarritz, Makila Golf Club has an 18 hole course, 6220m in length. The architect Rocky Roquemore is behind its conception. This natural beauty intertwines valley and woods creating a harmonious environment, attractive for golf players of different levels. Makila Golf Club prides itself in being a family club where everyone can be amused with the small while ball. Whether it be alone or in couple, with family or friends, a day out with the Basque mountains as a backdrop is sure to please. A clubhouse is equally available as well as a restaurant which was entirely renovated in 2011. The first 9 hole golf course dates back to 1992 and the 18 hole course was designed two years later, in 1994. The history and passion behind the sport, however, reaches further back to 1985 when national-level amateurs used to get together.

◆ GOLF BLUE GREEN SEIGNOSSE

Voted “the French people’s favourite golf course” in 2015 by Golf Magazine, this 64-hectare terrain is located in the Basque Country in the Pyrénées-Atlantiques department. The Golf de Seignosse forms part of the Blue Green label- which boasts being the European leader in golf club management- and has over 50 different golf courses in France. Its unrivalled element, is its 18th hole which is a par 6, the ﬁrst in France. For beginners or those who do not understand golf terminology, a par 6 is a hole in which a golfer needs an estimated six strokes to complete the hole, generally 601 yards or more. It has a restaurant with local products as well as a shop. You can also receive classes, available for both beginners and advanced players.

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slightly smaller terrain offering one 18 hole course and another 6 hole course. Elegant, tasteful and surrounded by nature. Its bonus point is attributed to the panoramic restaurant with a large terrace. The ensemble has a view of the site. The commune of Cognac is built on both banks of the Charente river. It is very picturesque and is an ideal spot to taste “the liquor of all Gods”, as described by Victor Hugo.

◆ THE GOLF DE PAU

The Golf du Cognac is located at Saint-Brice. PHOTO D.R.

◆ GOLF BLUE GREEN PESSAC

Set in 120 hectares of pine forest, thirty minutes driving from Bordeaux city center, this golf is ideally located. The Pessac golf is rather ﬂat but with well-designed holes. Quite popular it has an eighteen-hole course, a nine-hole course and a nine-hole compact course. When summer comes, many people come after work to have a rest in this peacefull and shady countryside. Golf Blue green Pessac completes the offer around Bordeaux.

◆ THE GOLF DU COGNAC

Situated in the Charente department, Saint-Brice near Cognac (yes, where real Cognac brandy comes from!), you can ﬁnd this

The history of golf in the Pyrénées region and the history of Pau Golf club are interlaced from the very beginning. A first golfing interest rewinds back to 1814 when some regiments of Wellington’s army were quartered in Pau. Two Scottish soldiers in particular took to the beauty of the region. Now it must have been quite a sight… foreign men in coloured skirts swinging a pole back and forth and sending a small white ball flying. The Scottish men returned twenty years later with friends and family and a small English colony was founded. The golf club was consequently established in 1856- the first in Europe. Designed by the architect William Dunn Senior, the golf course extends over the prairie of Billère in front of the Pyrenees. It has to some degree become an urbain course as over time the residential commune of Billère has grown. It is 5 minutes away from Pau centre and its castle. The golf club describes itself as surprisingly “so British”, in particular its Club house 1880. Nowadays the golf course holds some important competitions such as The Grand prix de Pau and the Internationaux de France Dames.

The Golf de Pau is the oldest in the region. PHOTO D.R.

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Practical information Here you have the contact details for some of the golf courses we have choose to explore for you. There are undoubtably more to discover, this is just an 18-hole selection. Enjoy coastal scenes at the Golf de Biarritz Le Phare. PHOTO JEAN DANIEL CHOPIN

◆ The Grand Saint-Emilionnais Golf Club

For reservations call +33 (0)5 57 40 88 64. The recognised golf club handicap is 36. Important information regarding the dress code: “players are expected to wear suitable golf clothing, this excludes collarless and sleeveless shirts, blue denim jeans, tracksuits, mini-tops and mini-shorts for ladies; collarless and sleeveless shirts, jeans, tracksuits and mini-socks for men”. The Club is closed on Tuesdays. The individual green fees are 85€ in low season and 105€ in high season. Address: 172 lieu-dit Goffre, 33350 Gardegan-et-Tourtirac.

◆ Makila Golf Club in Bayonne

Low season 48€, mid-season 60€ and high season 70€. Address: Route de Cambo 64200 Bassussarry. Contact +33 (0)5 59 58 42 42.

◆ Golf de Moliets

Rue Mathieu Desbieys 40660 Moliets. Call +33 (0)5 58 48 54 65 to reserve. The tariff depends on the day and time. It can range from 38€ at the end of the day in the low season to 75€ in summer.

◆ The golf du Médoc

◆ Golf de Biscarrosse

◆ Golf Blue Green de Pessac

◆ Golf de Chantaco

◆ The Golf du Cognac

◆ Golf de Chilberta

◆ The Golf de Pau

◆ Golf de Biarritz Le Phare

To contact the golf reception call +33 (0)5 56 70 11 90. For the hotel call +33 (0)5 56 70 31 31. The price of individual green fees is: 56€ during the low season and 86€ during the high season. Address: Chemin de Courmateau - 33290 Le Pian Médoc. Call +33 (0)5 57 26 03 33 for bookings. Prices: 43€ in low season, 53€ in high season. Address: Rue de la Princesse. 33600 Pessac. Call +33 (0)5 45 32 18 17 for bookings. Prices: 42€ in low season, 55€ in high season. Address: 2, rue de la Maurie. 16100 Saint-Brice. For reservations call +33 (0)5 59 13 18 58. Fees are 57€ and 69€ in high season. Rue du Golf. 64140 Billere.

◆ Golf Blue Green Seignosse

Contact +33 (0)5 58 41 68 30. Address : Avenue de Belvédère 40510 Seignosse. The individual green fees are: 57€ in low season, 70€ mid season and 76€ in high season.

Avenue du Golf, Biscarrosse, 406000. Contact +33 (0)5 58 09 84 93 to reserve. Green fees: 40€ in the low season, 49€ in mid-season and 57€ in high season. Route d’Ascain 64500 St-Jean-de-Luz. Contact +33 (0)5 59 26 14 22 to reserve. The green fees vary from 49€ to 68€. 104 Boulevard des Plages, 64600 Anglet. Contact +33 (0)5 59 52 51 10 to reserve. Price: 68€ in low season and 88€ in the high season. 2 Avenue Edith Cavell 64200, Biarritz. Call +33 (0)5 59 03 71 80 to reserve. Green fees: 56€ in the low season, 66€ in mid-season and 76€ in high season.

◆ Golf d’Epherra

64250 Souraïde. Call +33 (0)5 59 93 84 06 to reserve. Price: 43€!

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◆ —— DORDOGNE —— ◆

A Passion for Gardens 2 SUZANNE NELSON 1 JEAN CHRISTOPHE SOUNALET

The Dordogne is renowned for its exceptional gardens, but nothing quite matches the Manoir d’Eyrignac, the first in the region to open to the public. Owner Patrick Sermadiras de Pouzols de Lile shares his passion for Eyrignac and its gardens. WITH A DOZEN GARDENS OPEN TO THE PUBLIC, the Dordogne has become a destination for garden lovers as well as those who simply enjoy the combination of natural beauty and landscape artistry. Each garden has its unique character, a reflection of its location, environment and master gardener. “It’s the location, terrain and environment that provides the inspiration,” said Patrick Sermadiras de Pouzols de Lile, owner of the Manoir d’Eyrignac and its gardens. “Our garden is

living, it’s loved and lived in, and you feel it.” Eyrignac has been in the same family for 22 generations. Located 13 kilometres from Sarlat, the 500 acre property has 25 acres of gardens. It draws 80,000 visitors a year and its open every day; Sermadiras greets each visitor like a new friend. “I love to share my passion,” said Sermadiras who runs the estate with his wife Capucine and their son. He welcomes phone

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Contact: ◆ Les Jardins

du Manoir d’Eyrignac 24590 Salignac www.eyrignac.com contact@eyrignac.com Phone : +33 (0)5 53 28 99 71 Ticket prices: €6.50 to €12.50 Open every day of the year, but hours depend on the season Jan 1- March 31: 10:30 am to 12:30 and 2:30 pm to nightfall April 1-30: 10 am to 7 pm May 1 to Sept 30: 9:30 am - 7 pm Oct 1-31: 10 am to nightfall Nov 1-Dec 31: 10:30 am to 12:30 and 2:30 pm to nightfall

calls from people who visit his gardens, offering advice. “Generally I advise them to be meticulous, never put off until tomorrow what you can do today, and have patience. Never forget, the garden is a living thing. A garden will give you all the love you give it.” Eyrignac is clearly loved. The sculpted box hedges are masterpieces. This is topiary art, inspired by 18th-century designs, at its finest. There are seven gardens, the newest being the Spring Garden and Wild Flower Meadows. It’s a creation in progress, which began two years ago, after a decade of careful planning. While the gardens are outstanding on their own, Eyrignac also offers a steady stream of activities. In early May there is a popular orchid sale. On June 4-5, there will be a family promenade with gardeners on hand to explain their work. From July 11 to August 15, every Monday evening Eyrignac hosts a ‘white picnic. Everybody wears only white and brings its own picnic. There’s music and dancing, and no reservation required. On August 10, Eyrignac hosts it annual classical music concert held in the manor courtyard. And the following month, on September 17-18 (national heritage days), the manor as well as the private gardens will be open to the public. There is a restaurant and a boutique selling gardening accessories. And if you’d like to stay longer…Eyrignac rents two family houses on the estate.

◆ Les Jardins

de l’Imaginaire 24120 Terrasson -Lavilledieu Tel: +33 (0)5 56 50 86 82 www.jardinsimaginaire.com imaginaire@villeterrasson.com Tickets €4.50 to €7.50, children under 10 free Open April 13 to Sept 29 July and August open 10 am to 6 pm every day April, May, June and September open 10 am to 11:30 am and 2 pm to 5:30 pm, and closed on Tuesdays

◆ Chateau

Eyrignac’s popularity has encouraged others in the region to either create new gardens or rehabilitate abandoned gardens. Here are four but all of the gardens warrant a visit…

de Hautefort Le Bourg, 24390 Hautefort www.chateauhautefort.com contact@chateauhautefort.com Tel: +33 (0)5 53 50 51 23 Tickets €5 to €9.5, children under 7 free Open March through November April to October, open every day from morning to evening

◆ Les Jardins du

◆ Les Jardins

More gardens to visit...

Château de Losse 24290 Thonac par Montignac-Lascaux Tel: +33 (0)5 53 50 80 08 www.chateaudelosse.com chateaudelosse24@ yahoo.fr Tickets €4.90 to €9.50, children under 7 free Open every day from May 1 to Sept 30 from noon to 6 pm Closed Saturday except holiday weekends

Suspendus de Marqueyssac 24220 Vézac Tel: +33 (0)5 53 31 36 36 www.marqueyssac.com Tickets €4.40 to €8.80, children under 10 free Open every day of the year April, May, June, September open 10 am to 7 pm July and August open 9 am to 8 pm

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Vitrezay. PHOTO CMT C.TRIBALLIER

Talmont sur Gironde. PHOTO ARCHIVES CMT17 S. MORAND

Brouage. PHOTO ARCHIVES XAVIER LEOTY

◆ —— DISCOVERY —— ◆

Winging it in the Charente Maritime 2NOLA D’ENIS

Vitrezay, Talmont, Royan, Brouage join us to a bucolic coastal promenade SOMETIMES YOU JUST NEED TO GET OUT OF THE CITY, and the coastal route, following the estuary north, seemed the ideal choice for a jaunt. Eschewing the GPS and map in hand, we decided to head towards Rochefort - and Hermione - stopping as whim took us along the way.

there is handicapped access. Guided tours on the region, including one on the local sturgeon, are available. The fishing huts, jutting out over the water were available to hire and great fun - a definite must. The scenic restaurant was just the place to relax and plan the next stop: Talmont.

The small port of Vitrezay is about an hour from Bordeaux but a world away from the hustle of city life. The port is known for its “pole nature” (nature reserve) and for the fishing - lessons and equipment are available for adults and children and

The drive to Talmont took us past vines and rolling fields of sunflowers and wheat; the region is one of the sunniest in France. We drove up the coastal road, passing the pretty port of Mortagne-sur-Gironde with its monolithic monastery en route.

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Talmont sur Gironde. PHOTO ARCHIVES DIDIER PIGANEAU

Cathédrale de Royan. PHOTO ARCHIVES THIERRY DAVID

Talmont is justly renowned for its situation and architecture. Built on a promontory and dating back to the 13C, the ancient bastide town is perfectly preserved and the medieval streets are a delight, if a little busy in the summer. Jutting out over the cliffs, the 12C church of Ste Radegonde was one of the stops on the pilgrim’s route. Following the scenic route northwards is the resort town of Meschers. Bustling with tourists in the summer, the town is also known for its troglodyte dwellings. It’s less well known for being the last place in the world where fisherman catch Maigre by sound alone.

Mornac sur Seudre. PHOTO ARCHIVES CMT17 E.COEFFE

Royan, a little further up the coast was the ideal place to spend the day - the morning on the beach, lunch at one of the many seaside restaurants and then the afternoon at the large, well kept zoo at the edge of town. To the south is the seaside town of St Georges de Didonne, well known for its large beach and the water sports on offer, in and out of season. To the north lies Saint Palais sur mer, a town of sumptuous villas dating back to the heyday of seaside resorts. The Cordouan lighthouse can be seen from the coast.

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PHOTO ARCHIVES MARIE-LAURE GOBIN

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Address book WHERE

TO EAT, WHERE TO STAY, WHAT TO SEE

Meschers. PHOTO ARCHIVES GUILLAUME BONNAUD

Deviating a little inland, we’d been told about Mornac sur Seudre, another medieval village, famous for salt production and oysters from the marshy Seudre estuary. Our visit included a trip on the steam train and visits to the local artisan workshops, tucked away down streets full of hollyhocks and bright painted shutters. Next stop was Brouage, at the other tip of the Seudre estuary; once a coastal fortification, now surrounded by marshland. Built in the 16c on a pebbled outcrop, it’s as well known for its architecture as for a famous son - Samuel Champlain, the 17C explorer and founder of Quebec. The remaining buildings are beautifully kept and there are reminders everywhere of the towns links to Quebec. Incidentally, the town is also known as the place young Marie Mancini was exiled to keep her away from her lover, Louis XIV. The stairway she used to wander the ramparts is still standing and is called after her. And finally - Rochefort! Home to the Naval Dockyards which celebrate their 350th anniversaries this year. Home to Fort Boyard, the 19C island fortress built to defend the dockyards (and made famous in a television show). And home to Hermoine. Hermione was built here and is an exact replica of her predecessor that took La Fayette in 1780 to join George Washington in the fight for Independence. The rest, as they say, is history… Saint-Disant du Gua. PHOTO ARCHIVES CMT17 E.COEFFE

• Port de Vitrezay La Parfaite 17150 - St Sorlin de Conac Tél. : +33 (0)5 46 86 47 58 Restaurant with panoramic views over the estuary. Bed and breakfast. Cruises. • Auberge le promontoire Rue de l’Ancien Château 17120 Talmont sur Gironde Tél: +33 (0)5 46 90 40 66 Pretty little restaurant, a stones throw from the church in the heart of Talmont. • Mortagne sur Gironde L’ermitage Saint Martial Open Wednesday Sunday afternoons. Guided tours available Closed when it’s raining. Tel: +33 (0)7 82 59 63 78 • Meschers sur Gironde Tourist office 31 Rue Paul Massy 17132 Meschers sur Gironde Tél: +33 (0)5 46 02 70 39 Grottos of Matata and Regulus, troglodyte dwellings; • Royan, St Georges de Didonne, St Palais sur mer Wide selection of restaurants to suit all tastes and budgets. Camping. • Hiers-Brouage Tourist Office 2 Rue de l’Hopital 17320 Hiers-Brouage

• Hotel Cordouan 6 Allée des Rochers 17200 ROYAN Tél: +33 (0)5 46 39 46 39 Four star hotel with views over the Atlantic. Spa. • Mornac sur Seudre Tourist office 31 Rue de Plordonnier 17113 Mornac sur Seudre Tél: +33 (0)5 46 22 92 46 • Royan 1 Boulevard de la Grandière 17200 Royan Tél: +33 (0)5 46 23 00 00 • Rochefort Tourist Office Avenue Marie-François Sadi Carnot 17300 Rochefort Tel: +33 (0)5 46 99 08 60 www.hermione.com www.corderieroyale.com • Les Jardins du lac 3 Chemin Fontchaude 17250 Trizay Tel: +33 (0)5 40 25 13 40 Gastronomic restaurant on the outskirts of Rochefort. Haute cuisine by a maître restaurateur, using produce from the kitchen gardens. Local seafood specialities. Bib Michelin. There is also a 3* hotel, the Relais du Silence

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PHOTO ARCHIVES XAVIER LEOTY

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A day on board the Hermione. PHOTOS ARCHIVES QUENTIN SALINIER

◆ —— HERMIONE —— ◆

“She Sails Like A Bird” Commandant Yann Cariou, 2015 2 MICHELLE DE LA ROSA LEWIS Hermione first set sail from Rochefort in 1780, bound for America and carrying the Marquis de La Fayette - reaching Boston 38 days later - to support George Washington against the English. She took part in the war for independence and was present at the final skirmish at Chesapeake Bay in June 1781. Hermione sunk off the coast of Croisic in 1793. She was built at Rochefort in the shipyards established by Colbert to construct, arm, provision and repair a burgeoning French naval fleet. The vast arsenal included dry docks, a hospital, barracks, a ropewalk (the Corderie Royale) and extensive workshops. The decision to recreate the Hermione was taken following the total refurbishment of the shipyards, which had fallen into disrepair after the second world war. It followed that a period ship should be reconstructed in the workshops and Hermione

was the obvious choice. After 5 years of planning and research, construction started in 1997 and was completed 17 years later - the original Hermione having taken under a year to build. She made her maiden voyage in September 2014 and the following year retraced the path of her historic predecessor and sailed to the United States. The Hermione can be visited at Rochefort in the dockyards in which she was built. There are guided tours, visits to the workshops and the naval arsenal and animations on board the ship and onshore. Crew members are on hand to answer any questions. It’s worth checking the Hermione is at Rochefort before you visit - she casts off on again in June 2016 and returns at the end of July. The Russian frigate, the Shtandart will be at Rochefort from the 4th of June until the 8th of July.

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PRACTICAL INFORMATION:

Bordeaux Tourist Office First stop upon arrival in the city, for maps, booking tours, guide books, expert advice and to get your Bordeaux citypass. 12 cours du XXX juillet 33080 Bordeaux Tel. +33 (0)5 56 00 66 00 www.bordeauxtourisme.com

Bordeaux Wine School Just across the road from the tourist office, wine lovers can sign up for on introductory tasting class on Bordeaux wines.

The Mollat bookshop. PHOTO ARCHIVES PHILIPPE TARIS

Good to know 2 BRINDA BOURHIS IN THE LAST FEW YEARS, the city of Bordeaux has collected a multitude of awards, praise and recommendations as one of best places to visit in Europe…and even in the world! The New York Times, The Guardian, The Telegraph are just a handful of media that have reviewed this beautiful city and ranked it at the top. The articles in the above-mentioned newspapers provide certain information for visitors wishing to visit Bordeaux but there are other books, web sites and tools to look out for while you are here or to help plan your trip ahead of time. Below are some examples of recently published books worth reading to discover the wonderful universe of Bordeaux.

◆ 1855 – Bordeaux Grands Crus Classés,

by Jean-Charles Chapuzet & Guy Charneau A deep look into the timeless classification of 1855 for those who love great Bordeaux wines from the most prestigious appellations of the Médoc, Graves and Sauternes such as Chateau Lafite Rothschild, Mouton Rothschild, Latour and many others that belong to this group where excellence reigns.

◆ Thirsty Dragon by Suzanne Mustacich

American wine writer and journalist Suzanne Mustacich has been living in Bordeaux since 2000 and shares through this fascinating book China’s thirst for Bordeaux wines. A subject that seems relatively straightforward, yet Suzanne captivates her readers by the numerous insider stories about corruption and counterfeiting that threatened the world’s best wines.

The book was winner in the Andre Simon Memorial Fund 2015 Drinks Book Award (drink category) for 2015. To order a book visit the website: www.suzannemustacich.com

◆

Bordeaux World Heritage & The Wine Routes by Laurent Moujon This book is packed with useful information, and mingles the city’s unique lifestyle with a discovery of the Bordeaux vineyards. It lists places to visit in and around the city: heritage, gastronomy, shopping, gifts, crafts and luxury boutiques all feature in this very handy guide that is on sale at the Bordeaux Tourist Office.

◆

Eleanor of Aquitaine Queen & Legend by D.D.R. Owen A name that visitors to Bordeaux will come across frequently during historical visits, this book tells the story of Eleanor of Aquitaine, successively Queen of France and of England back in the 12th century.

1, Cours du XXX juillet 33075 Bordeaux Tel. +33 (0)5 56 00 22 66 ecole@bordeaux.com

Go to Bordeaux ! Rent your high standard and furnished apartment in the city center of Bordeaux and build your trip with optional products or services : concierge, tourism and leisure. www.gotobordeaux.com contact@gotobordeaux.com Tel. +33 (0)6 64 71 52 21

Mollat Bookshop Many of the books mentioned on this page are available in France’s biggest independent bookstore. They also have a wide selection of novels in English…for avid readers they’ll feel at home here. 15, rue Vital-Carles 33080 Bordeaux Tel. +33 (0)5 56 56 40 40 Open from Monday to Saturday from 9.30am to 7.30pm

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COUV_BDX_JADORE_2016_BAT.qxp_Mise en page 2 17/03/2016 18:16 Page1

Lifestyle Magazine

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BORDEAUX L i f e s t y l e M a g a z i n e • S u m m e r ‘ 16 • N . 2 • 9 ¤

Summer - 16. N.2

La Cité du Vin, Euro 2016, Bordeaux Wine Festival The town is a party

And their galaxy

Bages, the base camp

The Bassin d’Arcachon