Zeebrugge - Lissewege On Sea 2015

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Zeebrugge Lissewege On Sea

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Inspiration guide

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Contents 02 The seaport of Bruges,

from plan to world port

10 Lieven Verstraete and Zeebrugge, ‘true love never dies’

14 Fish from Zeebrugge: still in the sea a short while ago, now on your plate

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20 Bruges Seaside:

endless holiday feeling

22 A very wide beach 24 Getting lost in Lissewege with Pieter Aspe

28 Mystical stories and legends 32 Lissewege, artists’ village 34 Finding tranquillity in Ter Doest 38 Maps 40 Accommodations and food

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KEY Zeebrugge Lissewege

Tip Excursion Event View Museum/Exhibition Gastronomy

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A special triangle ‘The sea gives, the sea takes’ is an ancient principle to which Bruges owes

Bruges finally regained access to the

at a renowned restaurant or order a

its trade and wealth from the Middle

sea via the Baudouin Canal, and a new

beer with a ‘pote geirnoars’ (portion of

Ages. It is nature that is responsible

seaside resort was born: Zeebrugge!

shrimp). What comes from Zeebrugge,

for the present cultural assets and

A win-win situation! Meanwhile, the

tastes great. But in Lissewege, too, they

tourist attractions of this World Heritage

seaport of Bruges has developed into a

master the art of wining and dining. This

city – most notably thanks to the Zwin,

major world port; it features the widest

is the place to be for gourmets. What’s

Bruges’ access to the sea, which enabled

beach and Zeebrugge offers many

more, they combine art with wining and

successful export. Even when the sea

culinary delights at all levels thanks

dining. So, it is little wonder that both

retreated and humans transformed the

to the fish market and fishing port,

Lieven Verstraete and Pieter Aspe have

hinterland into a magnificent polder

regardless of whether you have a meal

lost their hearts to this region.

area, the clay soil was turned into bricks to construct city gates, churches and monuments. The Cistercians, the great promotors of Brick Gothic, settled in Lissewege and set the tone. At the time, the white polder village by the sea already provided accommodation to devout pilgrims who were on their way to Santiago de Compostela. But the sea set out to recapture its place in the interest of Bruges. At the end of the 19th century, the plans for a seaport became concrete.

Lissewege retreated into the hinterland;

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The seaport of Bruges, from plan to world port Become acquainted with the seaport of Bruges, a wondrous place that never sleeps and where the whole world comes together.

How it started...

The history of the seaport started when

Nautical Institutions of Bruges' (M.B.Z.)

inaugurated in 1907. King Leopold II

Baron Auguste de Maere, a hydraulic

was established. The M.B.Z. built the

even sailed his private yacht into the

engineer, argued in favour of a direct

port and later managed and ran the

seaport to do the honours. It was not a

link between Bruges and the sea in

new harbour complex. Work started

major success in the early years. This

1877. King Leopold II wanted to develop

in 1896 and was finally completed in

shortcoming can mostly be explained

the port directly along the sea in order

1905. The brand-new port was officially

by a lack of roads, railway connections

to take advantage of the first maritime revolution in which sailing vessels were being replaced by much bigger steel steamers. In 1891 the Belgian government installed the ‘Commission Mixte de Bruges Port de Mer’; its mission was to organise a contest related to building a seaport in Bruges.

An agreement was concluded between the Belgian State, the City of Bruges, Mr Louis Coiseau and Mr Jean Cousin on June 1, 1894. It established the conditions for building and exploiting the new port. The new port had to consist of three parts: an outer port on the coast, a sea canal and an inland port just north of the inner city. 1895 was a crucial year; that's when the 'Society of

2 – Zeebrugge

and hinterland industry. Moreover, transatlantic passenger services were less successful than hoped-for. Two regularly scheduled services were finally established: passengers could sail to Hull twice a week and there was a connection with Rotterdam. But the two devastating world wars prevented the seaport from getting off to a good start.

GOOD TO KNOW! • In 1997, a piece of world port was shamelessly taken over by terns. On Sterneneiland (tern island), an artificially created peninsula, you can observe the biggest breeding colony of these rare birds in Western Europe, with seals making regular appearances too.

• The seaport of Bruges can welcome the largest containerships in the world thanks to its special coastal location and deep channel.

• The seaport of Bruges is known as a fast port of call where ships can easily moor regardless of the tide.

• There are about 400 companies operating in the port area; they generate about 10,000 indirect jobs. Along with indirect employment, the port accounts for about 20,000 jobs.

Zeebrugge – 3

The port in times of war Submarines, torpedoes and nocturnal raids. This war story reads like an exciting thriller full of surprising turns.

Become acquainted with Zeebrugge's silent but impressive war stories.

connected with Bruges by a canal. In

could always get away via the intact outer

addition, the ‘Kaiserliche Marine’ took

port. During the war years, there were

control of the brand-new seaport of

about thirty submarines operational.

Bruges undamaged. Here, the occupier

The submarines were custom-designed

set up anti-aircraft guns and installed

for the North Sea coast. Thanks to their

batteries right in front of the port

limited size, they could easily avoid

entrance and the old harbour wall to

sandbanks.

protect their fleet of ships arriving and leaving. On November 9, 1914, the first

The Allies used the Channel to ship new

U-boat entered the outer port. The

troops and supplies to the British troops

In fact, in August of 1914, the Germans

submarines were not in the port all

in France. And since virtually no progress

planned to use the port of Dunkerque as

the time but would immediately sail

was being made at the Yser, German

an operating base against the British,

through the Baudoin canal to the much

supreme command set out to block this

but the Yser and the trench war threw

safer inner port which was turned into a

vital supply route using submarines.

a spanner in the works. And so they

modern submarine base. From here the

Initially, it did so in a chivalrous manner.

set their sights on the triangle Bruges-

U-boats could easily head to Zeebrugge

As soon as a U-boat spotted a hostile

Ostend-Zeebrugge, with Ostend and

and Ostend to reach the sea. And if one

warship, a sloop was sent to evacuate

Zeebrugge serving as satellite ports,

of the ports or canals was blocked, they

the crew, and only then was the ship

TIP Follow the warpath in Seafront Exactly 100 years after the German invasion Seafront is commemorating the Great War with the exhibition ‘Besieged coast, occupied port; WWI and Zeebrugge’.

The story of Zeebrugge as a base of operation for the war at sea is thematically sketched via some exceptional pieces.

Info > see p. 13 www.seafront.be

torpedoed. But it was not long before the

Battle of Ypres, the famous Battle of

British introduced their Q ships; heavily

Passchendaele. British forces planned

armed vessels that looked like ordinary

to break through the German front

fishing boats or merchant vessels, but

line in order to liberate the coast and

that had concealed artillery. They let the

regain control of the ports. A hundred

U-boats come close and then fired at

days of fierce fighting resulted in total

them. This resulted in a tougher approach

destruction, just 8 kilometres of ground

by the Germans, which also led to

gained and 400,000 dead British soldiers.

passenger ships being attacked. Despite

The Battle of Passchendaele went down

international outrage, on February 1,

in history as one of the bloodiest battles

1917, the policy of unrestricted submarine

of all time. But the British did not give

warfare was adopted. In other words:

up and soon forged new plans: a raid

torpedo straight away. Now the British

on the seaports of Bruges and Ostend.

were even more determined – Zeebrugge

Vice-Admiral Roger Keyes was ordered

and Ostend had to be reconquered

to prepare the raid and to be the one in

at any cost. That prompted the Third

command.

TIP Walk past war heritage The Zeebrugge heritage walk, which starts near Seafront, sheds light on Zeebrugge's unique place in Flemish fishing history and the fate of this port during World War I. You can purchase the map at Toerisme Brugge (Sea dyke), at Seafront or you can order it via www.fietsen-wandelen.be.

Zeebrugge – 5

The Zeebrugge raid

the smokescreen, the Germans opened fire. Half of the British soldiers on the

The plan was to fill three obsolete

first ferry were killed or injured. But they

warships with concrete and sink them

kept sailing, landed on the harbour wall

crossways in the outer harbour, causing

and exactly at that moment a British

the harbour channel to be blocked. To

submarine blew itself up under the

that end, however, the British troops

viaduct, precisely according to plan. The

first had to manage to land on the mole

first British warship that passed the

unnoticed and take out the batteries

harbour wall became entangled in the

intended to defend the mole. Small,

German nets and the crew sank the ship

fast boats were to put up a concealing

on the spot. The two other ships managed

smokescreen. At the same time, an old

to enter the harbour entrance virtually

submarine was to blow up the viaduct

unnoticed. They positioned crossways in

linking the mole to the mainland, to rule

the harbour channel and detonated the

out any reinforcements. The plan could

charge. Mission accomplished. However,

only succeed at calm weather, with wind

a few days later, the Germans had already

blowing inland to keep the smokescreen

created a new harbour channel behind

in front of the ships, and high tide to be

the ships. But this major surprise attack

able to scale the mole. And all this was to

affected the self-confidence of the

happen around midnight. Attempts were

Germans. Even the emperor visited the

To commemorate the courageous

made, but in the night of April 22 to 23,

scene to assess the damage.

attempt of Vice-Admiral Keyes

on the day of the Feast of Saint George,

COMMEMORATING THE WAR

and to pay homage to the

all British troops were ready. Sir Roger

During the Second World War the seaport

more than 200 victims, the

Keyes, alluding to Saint Georges (the

of Bruges played a rather small role. It

famous Zeebrugge Raid is

English patron saint who had defeated

was only shortly before the liberation that

commemorated every year on

a dragon) launched the campaign with

the Germans began to systematically

April 23 or on the Sunday closest

the words: ‘Let’s give the dragon’s tail a

destroy the port facilities. As a result, the

to April 23. On Saturday homage

damned good twist’.

port was largely destroyed and had to be

is also paid at the Saint George’s

rebuilt for the second time in a row.

Day Monument, which shows the

The Germans initially mistook the marine

raid on a commemorative tablet.

engines for an air raid, but they soon

On Admiraal Keyesplein there is

realised the fog was a smokescreen.

a monument made from pieces

Flares revealed the British chimneys

of the pier where British ships

and search lights illuminated the mole.

collided when they unloaded their

When a sudden gust of wind blew away

troops. Be sure to stop at the beautiful military cemetery near 'Sint-Donaaskerk'. This is one of the rare places where you find both German and British soldiers.

An authentic, untouched and intimate place that illustrates the madness of war. It is guaranteed to affect you.

The port today Despite all this suffering caused by the war, the port made a strong recovery. Due to its central location and its direct access to the North Sea, the busiest sea route in the world, the seaport of Bruges has developed into an international seaport.

In 2000 globalisation of the world economy enabled the seaport of Bruges to make a major breakthrough on an international level. Almost 10,000 ships moor here every year and the seaport is an important junction for fast-growing global container traffic and European rollon/ roll-off traffic. Many large distribution companies have settled in the port so they can serve their European customers.

The seaport of Bruges is a major port of import for paper and foodstuffs like fresh fruit and fruit juices, vegetables, potatoes, coffee, meat, fish and dairy products. It is even the official European distribution centre for Zespri kiwis from New Zealand. The seaport of Bruges is also an important passenger port, a large cruise port and a world leader in car traffic. It is the most important port in the world for the import and export of new cars, which are transported within Europe and

FIGURES TO IMPRESS

worldwide. And we mustn't forget gas, which is imported in two ways. On the

• The seaport’s 37 wind turbines supply electricity to 25,000 households.

one hand liquid gas arrives, mainly from

• The West and East Dams, the concrete arms which enclose the first mole, together

Qatar, and is stored in the LNG terminal in the outport. That is a great example of technical ingenuity! On the other hand a pipeline links the seaport with Norway and Great Britain. This gas continues to France and Southern Europe.

account for 10 million tonnes of natural stone and 60,000 concrete blocks.

• About 1.2 million trucks pass through the port every year. Each day, about twenty cargo ships leave the port to England, Scandinavia, the Baltic States and Southern Europe.

• The seaport of Bruges has specialised in the carriage of unaccompanied truck loads. Almost 90% of all Ro-Ro cargo crosses without a driver.

• The annual record for cars currently stands at 2.2 million handled cars.

• Today, the seaport offers no fewer than 15 weekly line services to the Middle and Far East.

• The seaport of Bruges is a gas distribution platform, supplying 15% of the NorthWestern European market.

• For 2015, there are already 142 cruise calls scheduled, accounting for some 300,000 passengers.

Zeebrugge – 7

TIP Take a tour of the port A cruise around the port with the Zephira, a passenger boat owned by Franlis, is the ideal way to see how things work in an international port. An audio system and several screens give a full explanation during the port tour. You can also call up information about the vessels en route. If you prefer to experience a cruise around the port at your own tempo then you can download a free app on your smartphone. The app is available in two versions, one for adults and one for children. If you don’t have a smartphone you can borrow a device on board. Franlis also organises North Sea cruises to Thorntonbank, the first Belgian offshore wind farm.

Open > March 29 - October 11: weekends and holidays at 2 p.m. | July and August: daily at 2 and 4 p.m. | August 1 - 16: extra departure at 11 a.m.

Price > adults: €9.50 | children 3 - 11 years old: €7 | seniors: €9 Info > boarding 20 minutes before departure | corner of Tijdokstraat and Vismijnstraat (near Maritime Theme Park Seafront, Old Fishing Port) www.havenrondvaarten.be

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TIP Cross the harbour area Want to discover the port from all sides? A tour of the port by boat and bus is the perfect solution! During the tours a guide will reveal all the secrets related to the daily operation of the port of Bruges. When you purchase a combination ticket you also get a discount off an admission ticket to Seafront.

Open > every Tuesday in July and August at 1:45 p.m., immediately followed by a tour of the port at 4 p.m., tour ends around 5:15 p.m.

Price > adults: €12 | children under 12: €9.50 | includes one refreshment in a fishermen's café Info > board at car park on the corner of Tijdokstraat and Vismijnstraat (near Seafront) tickets as per availability | register in advance at: Toerisme Brugge (Sea dyke, opening hours: July and August every day from 10 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. and from 2 to 6 p.m.) www.brugge.be/zeebrugge

NOTE THIS DOWN IN YOUR DIARY! June 21 – September 21 > Beaufort beyond the borders: art in the port

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TIP Observe the loading and unloading spectacle The look-out on the Zweedse Kaai (Swedish Wharf) is located between the outport and inner port. From the terrace you can admire the cruise ships and see the gigantic

For lovers of contemporary art, the coast is the place to

car ships sail into the Vandamme lock. At the end of the

be in the summer as it is host to the fifth edition of the

Rederskaai and Omookaai, you get a unique view of the

triennial Beaufort. The recipe of this concept remains

outport. From the look-out platform near the Visserskruis

a unique mixture of typical coastal ingredients and art.

(Fishing Cross), a monument for fishermen lost at sea, you

Nevertheless, this edition of Beaufort is innovative in

get a front-row seat for observing the steel tankers and the

terms of method and approach: Three distinctive nature

impressive giant tankers as they come and go.

and heritage sites on the coast each play host to a group exhibition and are linked together by the works of art in the various coastal municipalities. www.beaufort2015.be

Zeebrugge – 9

“To be able to look at the port from that vast beach, that’s exactly what makes Zeebrugge unique.”

Lieven Verstraete about his Zeebrugge The fact that true love never dies is proven by Canvas face Lieven Verstraete. Zeebrugge was his first big coast love and today this resident of Bruges still is a welcome guest here. ‘Getting a breath of fresh air on the beach in the winter, catching up with friends in the summer, kiting and admiring the port. Simple happiness in Zeebrugge.’

It is not surprising that Zeebrugge, as

ended when a friend of mine bought an

face.’ And in the summer we fraternize

for so many Bruges residents, also was

apartment on the Sea dyke and I started

over a couple of beers. ‘Zeebrugge is the

the first coastal love of Canvas celebrity

going there more regularly again.

beach of Bruges residents, so you can

Lieven Verstraete. And a first true love

I rediscovered and embraced Zeebrugge

find the whole city here, and that is a lot

is hard to replace. ‘Zeebrugge was the

again in no time.’ The old flame flared

of fun. Sometimes you haven’t seen each

seaside resort we would always go to

up and these days Lieven can be found

other for a year and it isn’t until you get

with the whole family; it’s the place

in the seaside resort both in winter and

here that you have the time to catch up,

where we got our first beach memories;

summer. ’In winter, on sunny Sundays,

on one of the many beach terraces.’ This

where we paddled in the water for

I enjoy walking on that vast, empty beach.

is not to say that the entire day is spent

the first time; where we ate our first

I start in Zeebrugge, take a brisk walk all

doing nothing. ‘Since about two years,

boules de berlin, where we applied

the way to Blankenberge, and then hop

I go kiting every now and then because

too little sunscreen for the first time

on the tram and come back. You walk

even at high tide you still have a very vast

and went home with sunburn. Many of

this fantastic route for a full hour, whilst

stretch of beach here. Zeebrugge ought

my summer childhood memories are

enjoying the sun shining straight in your

to become the Mekka of kiting! No noise

set in Zeebrugge’, Lieven says. When Lieven was allowed to go to the Chiro movement on Sundays, he often wound up in Zeebrugge. ‘We always went by

TIP Lievens’ favourite secret place!

bike, which was a great adventure in

‘A classic that is typical of Zeebrugge is The Old Steamer. No frills, but highly

itself, and we would roll down the high

authentic. Not expensive, nothing fancy, just decent and good quality. That’s how

dunes, straight into the water. Those

simple it is in Zeebrugge. And the fact that I met my wife at The Old Steamer and

were the days.’ But then the love cooled

danced with her here for the very first time is also a relevant factor….’

off somewhat and Lieven also grew fond

Bar - Bistro The Old Steamer Rederskaai 19, Zeebrugge, T + 32 50 54 58 25

of other seaside resorts. Luckily, true love never dies. ‘Granted, I was unfaithful

www.oldsteamer.be

to Zeebrugge for some time, but that

Zeebrugge – 11

“Zeebrugge remains one of the best kept secrets on our coast – not the chic glamour of Knokke-Heist, not the popular character of Blankenberge, but right in between. In fact, Zeebrugge ought to remain our secret.” – Lieven Verstraete

nuisance, spectacular for all sunbathers

that you can observe the port from the

and plenty of room to please everyone.’

beach, only adds to its attraction. That

Lieven can live with the view of the

vast beach right next to that hectic port,

port. ‘About ten years ago, I lived on

it is precisely that ambiguous feeling that

Rederskaai for a few months; then you

makes Zeebrugge so special. Extremes

have a seat in the front row. You see all

meet here, and that is quite rare.’

those massive container ships entering the port and that continues to intrigue.

That port is Zeebrugge, and the fact

TIP Take a brisk walk The Coastal Walking Route is by far the most complete network of walking paths on the coast. The route is a network of paved and unpaved footpaths between De Panne and Knokke-Heist. It links the best of what the coastal municipalities have to offer in terms of culture, nature, maritime heritage and couleur locale. You plan your own walking route using signposted junctions which are marked in the handy map brochure. It is best to start in Zeebrugge at the entry point across from the railway station in Strandwijk (Beach area). This map can be purchased at Toerisme Brugge (Sea dyke) or can be ordered via www.fietsen-wandelen.be.

12 – Zeebrugge

TIP Visit a museum… ship You can see the West-Hinder and the Foxtrot, a lightship and a submarine, from the Rederskaai. They are the two main attractions at the Seafront Maritime Theme Park.

On board the Russian submarine, a steel colossus that is about 100 metres long, you can experience how oppressive life was for the 75 submariners. You can settle your nerves after that oppressive submarine experience by taking the helm of the lightship West-Hinder. Until 1995 it was a bright red lighthouse on the North Sea, now it is high and dry.

Open > July and August: 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. | September June: 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. (except on 25/12 and 1/1) | different opening hours in the winter (Nov./Dec.) and annual closing: see website Price > children under 1 metre: free (if accompanied by an adult) | children under 12: €9 | adults: €12.50 | 60+: €11 | special discounts: see website www.seafront.be

Zeebrugge – 13

Fish from Zeebrugge: still in the sea a short while ago, now on your plate Good news! Zeebrugge offers true culinary treats thanks to its active fishing port, high-tech fish market, many restaurants, harbour cafés and fish boutiques. Let yourself be led by a Zeebrugge fishmonger and hurry to them. Bon appetit!

Become acquainted with fish wholesaler Maarten du Bois

My job was to cook the whelks and remove them. Many thousands of kilos have passed through my hands.’ One day, when the fish filleter was there, little Maarten grabbed a knife and set to work himself. ‘My father saw I was able to do it and from then on he would also let me clean fish. If you were covering for someone and you did ok, he would

Maarten du Bois grew up among

let you continue.’ Not that Maarten was

fish. One of his grandfathers had an

dreaming of a fishing career. ‘I also

old-fashioned herring cart and sold

went to school, studied pedagogics

soused herring, shrimp, smoked eel

and physical therapy, but eventually

and rollmops. The other grandfather

I quit. During my traineeship, I realised

ran a sprat and herring smokehouse.

it wasn’t my cup of tea after all.’ As if

Grandma had her own little business

by chance, a restaurant owner asked

jellying eel and shrimp. ‘My

Maarten if he could supply a nice

grandmother lived two houses down

turbot. ‘That’s how it all started; it’s

the street. From the age of six or so,

as simple as that. Before I knew it,

I would help her peeling shrimp. As

I was in the business. One minute I was

I got older, not more than ten years,

giving massages, and the next I was

I was allowed to help my father, who

delivering fish to a customer; as if I was

was selling fresh fish at the market.

predestined to do this.’

14 – Zeebrugge

Maarten made a spectacular start.

‘From Iceland to Morocco, from Ireland to the Seychelles, from Canada to Oman, I had contacts everywhere and they supplied me with fresh fish and shellfish. During those first few

THE FISHING ACADEMY

years, I did not get much sleep. Huge volumes of fish, an extreme pace, but

Maarten du Bois intends to establish the first Belgian

you can’t keep that up. When I realised

Fishing Academy in Zeebrugge. ‘For years, the

that, I began focusing on local fish.’

Netherlands and France have had real fishing academies

Today, Maarten can still be found at

where people can learn all aspects of the trade. Such

the Zeebrugge fish auction early in

academies do not exist over here and that is a shame. In

the morning. ‘Every purchase is a

fact, at present there is no school where people can learn

study. Typically, there are 7 to 8 boats

to fillet and process fish.’ This is precisely why Maarten

in Zeebrugge, but there are as many

is currently putting together a theoretical and practical

in Ostend too. You need about half an

curriculum and is gathering a team of professionals

hour to inspect the fish. We check the

around him to be able to officially open the Fishing

gills and mucous layer, the solidity of

Academy on January 1, 2016. Graduates will receive the

the fish. This way, we can establish very

title of ‘Seafish Ambassador’. To be continued.

quickly from which boat to buy or not.’

Every buyer has their favourite boats,

www.chefssecret.be

but buying in a random fashion is no

Zeebrugge – 15

option. ‘Sometimes your favourite boat

Since Maarten lives in Zeebrugge,

will have a new skipper or has explored

he prefers to purchase the fish in the

different fishing grounds, resulting in

Zeebrugge fish market. ‘As long as

merchandise of slightly less quality

there is enough fish in Zeebrugge, we

being brought ashore. You can never buy

buy here. While I may be a bit biased,

in a random fashion.’ And that’s when

I do have the impression that fish

the game starts. Some buyers operate

from the Zeebrugse fish market is

from the auction room; Maarten follows

slightly better.’ Moreover, about 90 %

the auction from a distance, from his

of his customers live within a 20-km

office. ‘As soon as the clock starts

radius. ‘This way we can respond to our

turning, it’s all systems go. Sometimes

customers’ needs very quickly.’ As for

you will hit at the right moment and you

his own culinary tastes, this avid hobby

will see the fish price go up. At other

cook and gourmet loves scallops, ‘raw,

times, the price will drop and you have

with a pinch of pepper and a little olive

pushed too early. That sucks of course;

oil, that’s really all it needs’ and turbot.

because in three seconds you can either

‘A grilled slice of turbot, new potatoes

win or lose a lot of money. Believe me;

with Béarnaise sauce or a fillet of John

we don’t need to visit a casino to get our

Dory with shrimp sauce, I’m always up

adrenaline shot.’

for that.’

TIP Maarten’s favourite secret place!

‘Just like everyone else, I like going to ’t Werftje, but usually you will find me at Wittekerke. There, they go out of their way to put local fish on the menu. Dog fish, slip sole and plaice fillet add a touch of Zeebrugge to the menu. Moreover, this bistro has a great terrace with a view of the sailing yachts and the old fishing port, a place where you can enjoy the sun all day long.’

Bistro Wittekerke Rederskaai 38, Zeebrugge, T + 32 50 78 89 84 www.facebook.com/bistro.zeebrugge

FRESH FROM ZEEBRUGGE Whether you go out for lunch, dinner or purchase some fish at a fish shop, one thing is certain: you'll be eating fresh fish from Zeebrugge!

• Vishandel Saskia, Vismijnstraat 34, Zeebrugge, T + 32 50 54 46 74 • Vishandel Westhinder, Vismijnstraat 20, Zeebrugge, T + 32 50 54 41 47 • Vishandel StemiFish, Tijdokstraat 1, Zeebrugge, T + 32 50 54 57 81 You can find a list of restaurants in Zeebrugge on pp. 40 and 41.

TIP Get a taste of a fisherman’s life You can get a real taste of a fisherman's life every Wednesday in July and August. You can visit Seafront Maritime Theme Park in combination with a guided mariners walk around the Old Fish Market and visit the atelier of fish shop Saskia or fish shop Westhinder. Afterwards you can have a drink in a typical fishermen's café. In addition, if you participate you will also get a nice discount on a tour of the port by boat organised by Franlis.

Open > every Wednesday in July and August | from 10 a.m.: visit Seafront Maritime Theme Park, 3:30 p.m.: guided mariners walk and fish atelier visit, 5 p.m.: refreshment in a fishermen's café Price > advance sales: adults: €12 | children under 12: €9.50. Same day sales: adults: €16 | children under 12: €12.50 Info > tickets as per availability from: • Toerisme Brugge (Sea dyke, opening hours: July and August every day from 10 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. and from 2 to 6 p.m.)

• Seafront: T + 32 50 55 14 15 • Same day tickets can only be purchased at the Seafront cash desk, opening hours see p. 13 www.seafront.be

DID YOU KNOW THAT...

• on a busy day there are 100 people working in the fish market?

• the largest volume of fish is bought via the Internet?

• there is a constant temperature of 5°C on the auction floor?

• to preserve fish for as long as possible, one must never break the cold chain?

• sorting is done both by hand and by machine?

• there are minimum prices for the fish?

• there are 3 types of quality sorting?

• the freshness of the fish is assessed by giving penalty points?

• there have been minimum sizes defined for each fish species?

Zeebrugge – 17

Roam through the old and new fish markets When the port was built, the Zeebrugge fishermen were only offered a very modest harbour of refuge at the site of the present-day Tide Dock. When it opened in 1906, it was almost exclusively fishermen from Heist who moored there. Since, at the time, there was no real fish market yet (it wasn’t created until 1923), the fisherwomen still peddled the fish on the street.

It was only in 1928 that a fully-fledged fishing port was constructed. It was not long before fishmongers, shipbuilders, ice factories and countless fishing pubs began setting up shop around the port. The Old Fish Market by the Prince Albert Dock, presently Seafront, was established in 1948 and was expanded in 1966 and 1984. In 1993, the Fish Market was moved to a brand-new building in the inner port. Until then, fishermen offloaded their sole, plaice, whiting and turbot early in the morning, after which the catch was immediately sorted and auctioned.

15

NOTE THIS DOWN IN YOUR DIARY! August 15 > Flemish Fish Day This attractive day is completely dedicated to Flemish fish! Take a look aboard a fishing boat, be tempted by the delicious fish samples on the Taste Boat and attend a show cooking event in the Cooking Theatre. Guest chefs will gladly welcome you to their pop-up restaurants. If you prefer stirring the pots yourself, then you may also participate, as a hobby cook or a professional cook, in various cooking contests with a star jury. www.brugge.be/zeebrugge

18 – Zeebrugge

Though the former fish market has since given way to the maritime theme park Seafront, the old fishing port still breathes the same atmosphere. The popular and mysterious atmosphere around the fishing dock seems unaffected. The Fishing Cross, the old shrimp cutter Virtus and the authentic fishing pubs all contribute. In Seafront, nostalgic souls can hear what it was like in the old days, when the fish was still being sold and the bids were being called out by the auctioneer on the quay.

Zeebrugge's fleet currently consists of roughly 40 ships that are active in different zones. Fish is sold in the new

FISHERMEN’S WISDOM AND SUPERSTITION

fish market on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays. Sole, plaice, cod, lemon sole, skate wings, haddock, squid, scallops, shrimp, monkfish, brill, turbot and langoustines are all on offer.

Specially adapted machinery and 60 employees inspect and sort the fish, which is then sold via a high-tech auction system. Yesterday it was

• Many fishermen would wear one earring against headaches, eyesight and hearing problems, among other things.

• A right shoe dredged up brought good luck and was attached to the mast. Left shoes were thrown back into the sea.

• To provide protection against misfortune, sometimes clogs were covered, at the bottom, with cross-shaped copper nails.

• A safe passage was enforced by hiding in the net or attaching to the mast a consecrated palm branch or statue of Our Lady.

swimming in the sea, today it is on your

• By throwing a few coins into the sea, a good catch or a good wind was bought.

plate.

• It was taboo to speak about or cut hair on board. That’s because hair was associated with witches.

• Tobacco, too, was forbidden as it could chase away the fish.

• Fishermen were not allowed to bring long bread on board as this would result in a long journey.

TIP Explore Seafront In the huge Old Fish Market building you will discover the secrets of the sea and the rich fishing history of Zeebrugge.

The interactive and multimedia exhibition ‘Fish, from boat to plate’ takes you to unprecedented depths and introduces you to the enormous variety of fish in the North Sea: from tiny shrimp and handsome brill to terrifying monkfish. You will also discover the route that fish follow from the sea to your plate and you will be swamped with all kinds of fish facts. The auction game takes centre stage; you can actively participate in a fish auction.

Info > see p. 13 www.seafront.be

Zeebrugge – 19

Bruges Seaside: an endless holiday feeling An incredibly wide beach, a dyke on a human scale and a train that drops you right next to the beach – that must be Bruges Seaside, officially the largest beach of the coast and the only seaside resort where you can park for free everywhere.

Family beach of Bruges residents

beach and are ok with the fact that the rest of the world has yet to discover Zeebrugge. Thanks to this Bruges loyalty, Zeebrugge is an exceptionally pleasant place where everyone seems

Bruges residents like to think of it as

to know everyone. People come here

their own private beach. Therefore, they

to enjoy a beach that still looks how a

are very reluctant to provide information

beach is supposed to look: pure and

to the outside world. They will only tell

clean – an ocean of space where young

their best friends how lovely it is out

and old find their own place. Moreover,

here all year round. The beach is so vast

from the Easter holidays until the end

that even on the busiest of days in the

of October, the youngest beach rascals

tourist season it is never overcrowded.

can enjoy themselves in the beach play

In the summer there is plenty of space

village, which includes swings, climbing

for sunbathing; in the winter it is a

frames and a real play boat. Parents

great place to catch a breath of fresh

who wish to keep an eye on their

air for several hours. So needless to

rascals, can do so from the adjacent

say, residents of Bruges cherish ‘their’

beach terraces.

NOTE THIS DOWN IN YOUR DIARY! April 24 – May 11 > Week van de Zee (Ocean Week)

24

‘Week van de Zee’, being the healthy place par excellence to catch a breath of fresh air, entices everybody out of doors. Moreover, ‘healthy’ is the central theme.

By means of field work and ‘do’ activities for young and old the importance of a healthy ocean is highlighted. Check the website for an overview of all the activities and the programme of the family weekend on May 2 and 3! www.weekvandezee.be

20 – Zeebrugge

NO-NONSENSE FACTS ABOUT THE OCEAN • The average depth of the North Sea is 95 metres.

• Minerals are essential ingredients to allow life in the ocean.

• Billions of tiny seaweeds live in the ocean. When the seaweeds are dead, they release a chemical called dimethyl sulphide.

We refer to this chemical as ‘the odour of the ocean’.

• The longest-living shell from the North Sea can get up to 150 years old.

• One litre of seawater contains an average of 34.5 grams of salt.

• The average temperature in the upper water layers of the North Sea is 5 to 6°C in the winter and 14 to 15°C in the summer.

THE PALACE HOTEL, SYMBOL OF THE SEA DYKE The Palace Hotel, which still dominates the Sea dyke in Zeebrugge, has experienced an eventful history.

Construction was started in 1908 to welcome German tourists before they set sail to the United States. A luxury hotel tailor-made for anyone who was rich enough to cross the ocean. The building was inaugurated exactly 14 days before the start of World War I. At the opening the then mayor of Zeebrugge is said to have concluded his speech with the prophetic words ‘...let's hope that the Germans come soon’. They did come… The hotel was immediately occupied by German troops.

Zeebrugge – 21

5. Free Parking

Parking is free in Zeebrugge.

1. Webcam

Do you need a weather update?

Take a look at the webcam or watch the weather report on Canvas/ÉÉN! www.brugge.be/zeebrugge

2. Badengebouw

The Badengebouw, the rally point! There is an information desk, a first-aid station, a toilet as well as facilities for people with mobility problems (adapted toilet, shower and beach wheelchairs). www.brugge.be/zeebrugge

6. Work of Art by Bilquin

Both young and old are intrigued by ‘The man who saw the boat, in the air’, a work of art by Jean Bilquin.

7. Beach Playground

The playground on the beach is challenging! It offers swings and climbing frames suitable for different ages.

8. Beach Terraces

You can enjoy some refreshments with your feet in the sand. Zeebrugge has wonderful beach terraces.

3. Train to the beach

9. Beach Library

4. Surf club

10. Sports Beach

Did you know that the train stops really close to the beach? www.b-rail.be The Icarus Surf Club knows everything about surfing, kite surfing and paddle boarding. www.icarussurfclub.be

Every summer you can borrow books from the extensive collection at the Beach Library.

All summer long qualified instructors will get you sweating on the sports beach. www.brugge.be/sport

11. Nature Reserve De Fonteintjes

You can admire orchids and enjoy all the peace and quiet that the dunes provide in De Fonteintjes. A guide can also be reserved. www.natuurpunt.be

12. Films on the Beach

Free open-air cinema every Thursday in July and August (three films per day). www.bruggeplus.be

13. WeCanDance

Get swept up in the exuberant atmosphere of this electronic dance festival on August 8 and 9. www.wecandance.be

14. Saint George's Day Walk

This walk takes you right into the sea via the western pier. Two large look-out platforms guarantee a fantastic sea, beach and harbour panorama.

Getting lost in Lissewege with Pieter Aspe No one can fathom and describe Bruges, Zeebrugge and Lissewege better than the successful author Pieter Aspe. And though he has enjoyed the sea air for quite some time now, he is and remains a resident of Bruges. Indeed, he already closed Lissewege in his heart many years ago.

“ In Lissewege there are enough mysteries and enigmas to keep fascinating an author.”

When Pieter Aspe was about sixteen

of their house specials: ‘Paling in ‘t

of course, is a beautiful rural village

years old, he frequently cycled from

groen’ (freshwater eel in a green herb

and, moreover, it is a place that holds

Bruges to Lissewege to find some peace

sauce). They brought a plate with eight

memories; memories that I cherish.

and quiet – already back then. And the

pieces of eel, a perfect serving. But

And Lissewege also fit perfectly into the

successful author has continued to do

immediately thereafter, they brought

script. I was looking for a quiet place and

so. ‘Meanwhile, the village has become

out another pot containing another half

few places are quieter than Lissewege.

a bit more popular, but in those days it

a kilo of eel. The tone was set. So large

So the choice was easy.’ Moreover, with

was really deserted, almost extinct. A

servings – ideal for people who very

its many mysteries and secrets, the

few cafés by the church, three old men

hungry. No one can finish it, but that

village itself nearly becomes a character

who drank their beers there and a ferry

is precisely their signature trademark.

itself. ‘There are so many stories and

that took you to the other side to a café

Everyone knows it is impossible to leave

legends circulating that it is impossible

whose owner had a striking personality

Hof Ter Doest and still be hungry.’ So,

not to ask yourself any questions. For

and served nice dried fish.’ Intriguing

it is little wonder that Lissewege also

instance, there is the barn of Ter Doest,

enough to keep coming back, and Pieter

found its way to the author’s work. The

which was once part of a huge abbey

did just that. He soon discovered the

bestsellers ‘Postcriptum’ and ‘13’ are set

with a lot of land. The monks not only

restaurant Hof Ter Doest. ‘The very

in part in the white village. ‘There are a

had a lot of power, they also made

first time I went there, I ordered one

number of reasons for that. Lissewege,

lots of money. And it is whispered that

24 – Lissewege

Willem Van Saefthinge, after reaping

these mysteries alive. ’The story of the

fame in the Battle of the Spurs, killed

Templars is also a saga that Pieter Aspe

the abbot and had to flee to the Holy

finds fascinating, if only because no one

Land. A little history drenched in fantasy;

really knows what it is all about. And

that appeals to me, of course. And by

then there is that church tower without

writing about it myself, I help keep all

a steeple. ‘Some people claim that, in

TIP Pieter’s favourite secret place!

‘Some time ago, I discovered Ulysses, exquisite wines, a beautiful location and a menu featuring a mix of delicacies from various continents as well as uncommon snacks. The picture is perfect!’

Bar - Bistro Ulysses Stationsstraat 25, Lissewege, T + 32 50 61 27 67 www.ulysses-apero.be

Lissewege – 25

“Lissewege is, of course, a very beautiful rural village and, moreover, it is a place that holds memories; memories that I cherish.”

– Pieter Aspe

the Middle Ages, this church tower served as a lighthouse. It was the responsibility of the watcher of the tower to make sure that there was always a fire burning on the roof to allow the ships, which entered via the Zwin, to reach Bruges safely. But there are enough arguments to debunk this theory. Not only is Lissewege to far away from the sea, in those days the church was surrounded by small wooden houses with a thatched roof. Flying sparks could have easily set the village ablaze.’ So there are enough mysteries and enigmas to keep fascinating an author.

And that is precisely the effect Lissewege has on Pieter Aspe.

‘In fact, Lissewege has not changed since I was sixteen. A few more facades have been painted white, there has been a lot of renovation done, but it remains a real village, with a real village mentality. These days, at Café Den Ouden Toren, you can find a few tourists there, but also people who play cards on a regular basis. And that’s precisely what makes Lissewege so charming.

I like to go there to sit on a terrace and have a drink or take a stroll through the polders.’ So Lissewege may very well come up in one of Aspe’s future books. ‘Sometimes you need a specific location for a particular scene - a deserted corner or a place where few people come. And there are not many places like that in Flanders. Moreover, I always draw from things around me; places and areas that I know, that I visit. So who knows, perhaps this is to be continued…’

TIP Go on a quest This walk immerses you in the fascinating history of Lissewege, taking you to the nicest secret places.

You might even run into the Templars...

The quest is available from July 1 to August 31 at VVV Lissewege (presbytery) and Toerisme Brugge (Sea dyke). www.brugseommeland.be/zoektochten

26 – Lissewege

TIP Cycle à la carte Do you want to cycle around and discover Lissewege and its surroundings just like Pieter? That's a great idea because Lissewege is the ideal departure point for a cycling trip. The church is a great bicycle starting point. It is easily accessible by car or by public transportation, there is free parking and a handy info panel will get you going in the right direction. The area around Lissewege, Zeebrugge and Bruges is shown on the cycling network maps ‘Brugse Ommeland Noord’ (The Bruges Woodland and Wetland North) and ‘Kust’ (The Belgian Coast). You can map out your own cycling route using the cycling junctions. If you want to cycle in the east coast polder, a vast and open polder landscape interwoven with canals and dykes, then you should purchase the thematic cycling route ‘Fietsen tussen weidevogels en vriezeganzen’ (Cycling amongst meadow birds and wintering geese). Polder lovers can also try the thematic cycling route ‘Fietsen tussen zoet en zout water’ (Cycling between freshwater and salt water) which links the port, Zeebrugge and Lissewege via freshwater and salt water areas. You can purchase these maps at VVV Lissewege (presbytery) and Toerisme Brugge (Sea dyke) or you can order them via www.fietsen-wandelen.be.

Mystical stories and legends Lissewege belongs on a postcard: a giant church, a silent canal, infinite flat grassland surrounded by bent willow trees and an authentic, untarnished view of the village.

An untouched village that has charmed visitors for centuries. Immerse yourself in an exciting story in which Knights Templar and pilgrims play a leading role.

Lissewege, a stop on the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela

this as a sign that the Virgin Mary wanted

impressive church. Despite all their noble

to be worshipped on that location. A small

intentions, things fared badly for the

Romanesque church was built and the

Knights Templar. They were accused of

statue was given a prominent place. Large

all kinds of crimes and in 1312 they were

groups of pilgrims followed and greeted

burnt at the stake. You can still spy traces

the miracle statue. That’s how Lissewege

of the Knights Templar in the church in

developed into a famous Virgin Mary place

Lissewege. It requires some searching,

of pilgrimage and the first stop on the

but perceptive eyes will undoubtedly find

coast for pilgrims from the north who were

the half hidden stone head of Baphomet.

travelling to Santiago de Compostela.

It has been suggested that the Knights

Those who climb the tower of the 13th-

Templar hired serfs to build chapels and

century Our Lady of the Visitation Church

The pilgrims slept in the Sint-Jacobshuis

cathedrals. Once their task was complete

ask themselves how a village of no more

and the SpaniĂŤnhof, very near the church.

they were rewarded with a letter of safe-

than 300 residents could ever have paid for

According to author Johan Ballegeer and

conduct. They became Freemasons. In

such a cathedral of a church. The answer

others, the Knights Templar guarded the

every church, also in Lissewege, those

is hiding in a medieval legend...

pilgrimage route in order to ensure the

Freemasons left their signatures behind.

pilgrims' safety. They wanted to make sure In those days fishermen from Heist used

that all those who undertook the difficult

to fish in the streams around Lissewege.

trip arrived safely. The Knights Templar

One day while walking near the streams

were initially a poor religious order of

they found a statue of a woman with a child

knights, but their popularity resulted in

in her arms. They thought she looked like

generous gifts and they quickly evolved

the Virgin Mary. They took the statue to

into a rich and powerful order. According

Heist, but the next day it was in the stream

to rumour, they provided some financing

once again. This phenomenon repeated

in 1225 so that the small Romanesque

itself a few times and the fishermen saw

church could be replaced with the current

Lissewege – 29

After that ecclesiastical find be sure to climb the 264 steps in the church tower. You will enjoy an indescribable polder panorama once you reach the top. On a clear day you can admire Ostend, the island of Walcheren and all the steeples in between. A panorama that you will not soon forget. Once you are back on the ground, visit the graveside of Frans ‘Sus’ Verleyen. There is a quote on his headstone by the author Harry Mulisch: ‘It is best to augment the riddle’. And that's just what he does. Perhaps it is simply a happy coincidence, but Frans Verleyen was a Freemason…

That's something you can daydream about when walking along the

TIP Unravel the mystery

'Vaartje'. This old waterway, which was dug in the 13th century to connect Lissewege with Bruges, is truly beautiful. It's the

To understand the mystery of the huge Our Lady of the

ideal place for daydreaming. Of course people used to do other

Visitation Church you must climb the tower, which never

activities here. Bluestone from Tournai was transported via this

received a steeple due to a lack of money. Once you

waterway for the construction of the church. A nice detail:

reach the top you can admire the white village without

the stones reached the construction site via the small black-and-

hindrance.

white painted door across from the church entrance. In addition, the

Open > Church: 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. | June 1 to September 30

foresightful Ter Doest monks used this waterway as a trade

from 9 a.m. to 8 p.m.

route to Bruges. But that is a different story. As you can see, there is

Tower: July 1 to August 31 from 2:30 to 5:30 p.m.

more to Lissewege than meets the eye.

Price > adults: €1 | children under 12: €0.50 www.lissewege.be

THE PROCESSION, EXPERIENCE THE LEGEND An annual 'Ommegang' (Procession) has departed from Lissewege on the first Sunday in May since the Middle Ages.

The miracle statue of Our Lady of Lissewege is carried in a baroque sedan chair. A praying crowd carries the miraculous Virgin Mary statue from the church to the Ter Doest chapel. Then a short service takes place. After the ceremony the statue is carried back to the church. www.lissewege.be

30 – Lissewege

21

TIP Admire the saints NOTE THIS DOWN IN YOUR DIARY! August 21 and 22 > Lichtfeest (Festival of Light)

The visitor's centre has a soft spot for saints. The presbytery is home to the recently redecorated Saints Museum, which has a unique collection of statues of patron saints. In fact, there are more than 120 statues in total! There is not a lack of devotion here!

Lissewege will be even more mysterious on August 21

Open > Easter holidays, Whitsun weekend and Ascension

and 22! As soon as evening falls you'll be able to enjoy

weekend, period from June 15 to September 15 and the two

an atmospheric evening in the centre of the village. All

last weekends of September: daily from 2 p.m. to 5:30 p.m.

kinds of artists will provide an extra poetic touch with

Price > adults: €2 | museum visit + coffee/tea: €3.50 | children

atmospheric music and intimate light installations.

under 12: €1

www.bruggeplus.be

www.lissewege.be

TIP Release the pilgrim in you In hospitable Lissewege they have known since time immemorial how to feed the hungry and quench the thirsty. The white village offers extensive culinary offerings for every budget, from nice bistros such as the cosy Huyze Saeftinghe to high-quality restaurants such as De Valckenaere, De Goedendag, De Pepermolen and Hof Ter Doest. If you are thirsty Café Den Ouden Toren and the Sint-Jacobshuis are two authentic pubs where you can hang around for hours. If you are a pilgrim passing through then you should stop at Maelstaf bakery. Brace yourself for a cue because this nostalgic bakery smells and tastes like days long past and only opens on Saturdays. You should also enter ‘De Soete Paepe’, a 1920s candy store with more than 60 kinds of old-fashioned sweets and home-made cake. Ideal for satisfying your need for a snack.

Take a look at p. 41 for a list of restaurants in Lissewege!

Lissewege – 31

Lissewege artists’ village Art lovers are catered to artistically in Lissewege. Though it’s a small village, it boasts a host of galleries and artistic places of relaxation.

And of course, there is also the famous open-air exhibition ‘Beelden

TIP Wine and dine with art Whether you order a perfectly made cup of coffee, a deserved

in het Witte Dorp’ (Statues in the White Village). Gratien Dendooven,

glass of wine or a savoury snack,

the man behind this artistic project, explains the success. ‘When you

in Lissewege you enjoy more

do something, you have to put your heart and soul into it. You have to

places they also serve you a touch

intensely. That’s because in many of art. At Arte Latte you can order

do it with passion.’

homemade ice-tea, herbal tea or special coffee whilst admiring the

To claim that Gratien and Lissewege

you only saw the postman, if he showed

many works of art; in the wine shop

are inextricably linked is an

up at all.’ At age fourteen, Gratien

of Ô d’Chatô the wines taste better

understatement. The art fanatic was

took up painting and when he later

thanks to the ingenious setting;

born in Ter Doest, where he still lives,

opened the tearoom De Valckenaere

and at the jazzy Ulysses drinking

and had an idyllic childhood there.

with his wife Angèle, he installed a

an aperitif has been elevated to the

‘Long before the restaurant opened,

gallery on the first floor displaying

status of art. For a chat and a bite

this was a farm and sometimes tourists

work by, among others, Rik Slabbinck

to eat there is also Den Artist near

would come by and have a look at the

and other contemporaries. One day

the market square; exhibitions are

barn. I spoke a little French and I would

Gratien had a great idea. ‘I immediately

organised in the adjacent rooms on

enthusiastically show them around.

called my good friend Eli Balduck and

a regular basis.

They rewarded me with some small

said, ‘Eli, we should do a statue route.’

change or compliments. That was a

Eli backed the project from the start;

www.artelatte.be, www.odchato.be,

wonderful time, but the winters were

we spoke with our artist friends and

www.ulysses-apero.be

harsh and lonely. There were days when

a few weeks later we had 19 artists

32 – Lissewege

willing to participate.’ The first few years were a bit difficult, but 20 years on the Beeldenroute (Statue Route) has become an established name. ‘The artists come from everywhere.

They include both big names and lesser known artists, but all exhibit very good modern work here. I take a look at each work of art in advance; there are times when the artists e-mail me

NOTE THIS DOWN IN YOUR DIARY! July 10 – September 27 > Beelden in het Witte Dorp (Statues in the White Village)

pictures; other times I pay a visit to their studio.’ Once the list

All summer long, art reigns supreme in Lissewege.

has been compiled, that’s when the real work begins – putting

During this period the most picturesque spots are

the pieces together. ‘That’s my specialty. I know instantly which

ingeniously taken over again by more than 100 national and

work should be put where to ensure that it comes out well.

international visual artists. The free open-air exhibition

And each work of art is engraved in my memory. I can tell you

‘Beelden in het Witte Dorp’ (Statues in the While Village)

exactly what stood where ten years ago.’ Gratien does not have

is a unique way to discover the white polder village and

time to ponder the success. But he does enjoy it. ‘It is very

shows you a side of Lissewege you’ve ever seen before!

satisfying to see all those people flocking to the event every year. All those people become acquainted with a very varied

www.beeldenroute.be

selection of modern art. And while they’re at it, they also get to know Lissewege, for it is precisely the contrast between those modern works of art and this medieval setting that makes this

August 2 > MAfestival Lissewege

open-air expo so special. Every year, I am nervous when we place statues in the market square. This square belongs to the

Lissewege breathes Old Music! Indeed, MAfestival Brugge

residents of Lissewege. So you want them to be really happy

makes yet another musical excursion to Lissewege. The

with what is put on display. If that goal is achieved, then my

concert day is completely devoted to the Danse Macabre.

edition has been successful.’

Three ensembles introduce you to this theme in a surprising manner. An appropriate dinner in a picturesque village is also organised in between. The day is finished with a concert at the church brought by a renaissance orchestra fully dressed up to pay tribute to the Muse of Dance. www.MAfestival.be

10

TIP Promote your artistic sense Over the years, several galleries have been established in Lissewege. At Artepol, which can be found in the magnificently renovated station building, you will discover work by contemporary visual artists. Gallery Fotoon, for its part, displays works by a wide variety of various artists and at art centre ’t Vaartje you can admire arts by and for visually impaired people. Art house Den Engel, which is housed in a late-18th-century building located right in the market square, is also worth paying a visit. www.artepol.be, www.fotografiefotoon.com, www.tvaartje.be, www.lissewege.be

Finding tranquillity in Ter Doest Just like the church in Lissewege dominates the village, Ter Doest abbey holds dominion over the polders that surround Lissewege. It has been doing so for centuries‌

THE MANUSCRIPTS OF TER DOEST

Monks at work Ter Doest Abbey was founded in 1106

the days were a bit shorter in winter but

by the French Benedictines of Saint-

the winter evenings were long, cold and

Riquier in Ponthieu. About 70 years

dark. There was only one heated room

later Cistercians took over the abbey

in the abbey and to brave the cold they

and built a refectory, a chapter hall, a

often slept in their habits. The sexton

few dormitories, a scriptorium, a library

kept track of time and woke his

and a church. The monks evidently

colleagues every morning. Between all

flourished because the church at Ter

those prayer meetings they had to work.

Doest equalled the current village

The monks did religious work: reading,

church that dominates Lissewege

copying books and studying. The lay

both in volume and in size. It is an

brothers did manual work: grinding

understatement to say that monastic

grain in the mill so bread could be made

life was tough. Almost the entire day

and they ran the forge. Crops were

and half the night was dominated by

cultivated and dikes and roads were

God. The monks came together to pray

constructed. The crops from more than

seven times a day; their day began at

4000 hectares of fields were stored in

sunrise and ended at sunset. Therefore,

the impressive abbey barn that was built

Books occupied a central place in the life of the Cistercians of Ter Doest. Indeed, books were essential to living a life of prayer and meditation. Ever since the abbey was founded, the treasure trove of books were kept in a library. Today, the archives of the Grootseminarie (Major Seminary) and the Bruges City Library still hold more than 150 manuscripts of the former abbey of Ter Doest. All of them are 13thand 14th-century manuscripts, often decorated with magnificent miniatures. The monks wrote the books in the abbey’s scriptorium using an obliquely cut goose quill and various types of ink.

Lissewege – 35

between 1370 and 1385. The abbey also

used to make bricks. The bricks were

get an impression of its grandeur and

engaged in the wool trade. It used the

used to expand the abbey and to build

historic significance. Europa Nostra

13th-century waterway as a trade route

the church in Lissewege. The monks

awarded a bronze plaque of honour for

to Bruges, and they played an important

were very industrious!

the top quality restoration. The adjacent

role in the drainage of this vast area of

abbey farmstead dates from the 17th

mud flats and salt marshes. They diked

Today we can only admire the

century. It currently houses the famous

in the previously worthless area and

impressive abbey barn (56 metres long,

restaurant Hof Ter Doest with hotel and

turned it into polder. They also extracted

21 metres wide and 16.5 metres high)

inn that serves Ter Doest beer!

peat and clay from the neighbouring

in all its glory. It was restored in early

Monnikenmoere (monks' marsh). This

2000; from its oak pillar to its roof

low-lying marsh was created when the

tiles from Boom. You have to see this

Cistercians extracted clay, which they

gigantic colossus with your own eyes to

TIP Walking through the Ter Doest polders The 6.3 km long Ter Doest walk highlights the flat polder landscape around Lissewege. Departing from the church, you first walk through the picturesque town centre then calm, traffic-free roads lead you to the Boudewijn canal and Ter Doest Abbey. Rural roads and beautiful views are the main ingredients of the walk back. You can purchase the map at VVV Lissewege (presbytery) and Toerisme Brugge (Sea dyke) or you can order it via www.fietsen-wandelen.be.

NOTE THIS DOWN IN YOUR DIARY! July 18 and August 8 > Ter Doest summer walk

18

In 2015, you can still wander around Monnikenmoere as well! Indeed, the meadow bird reserve exceptionally opens for 2 days in the summer. A number of interventions in the polder landscape created specific conditions enabling saline plants to develop in the salty substrate. It is therefore a unique opportunity to become acquainted with the various plant and bird species in the presence of a nature guide. Don’t forget to bring your boots and binoculars! www.natuurpunt.be

TIP Take a look at a 'moef' In the visitor's centre, which is housed in a beautiful presbytery close to Our Lady of the Visitation Church, you will find everything you might want to know about Ter Doest and the history of Lissewege. This is the place to be if you are looking for regional information, cycling and walking routes. The permanent exhibition ‘A Gothic vision in the polders’ will get you started. The oldest items, including a real ‘moef’ (a large, hand-formed brick), date back to 1275!

Open > Easter holidays, Whitsun weekend and Ascension weekend, period from June 15 to September 15 and the two last weekends of September: daily from 2 p.m. to 5:30 p.m. www.lissewege.be

THE STORY OF WILLEM VAN SAEFTINGHE Willem Van Saeftinghe led a busy but peaceful life as a lay brother in Ter Doest Abbey until the Battle of the Spurs in 1302. He promptly left Lissewege, travelled to Courtrai and dragged Robert van Artois, leader of the French army, from his horse to make him a bit more humble. Then he eliminated 40 French knights. Stalwart Willem became one of the heroes of Groeningheveld. You can admire him on Lissewege market; he is equipped with his morning star and battle sword.

Lissewege – 37

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Accommodations and food Lodgings zzHotel Monaco ***

KEY

zzAddresses in Zeebrugge zzAddresses in Lissewege

Food zzB&B SpaniĂŤnhof ****

BEACH AREA

zzPub MariTimes

Baron de Maerelaan 26, Zeebrugge

Walram Romboudtstraat 6, Lissewege

T + 32 50 54 44 37 | F + 32 50 54 44 85

T + 32 50 70 00 00 | F + 32 50 67 04 60

Zeedijk 6A, Zeebrugge

hotelmonacozeebrugge@skynet.be

info@spanienhof.be

M + 32 472 60 05 69

www.hotelmonaco.be

www.spanienhof.be

maritimes@telenet.be

zzHotel Atlas ***

zzHostellerie Hof Ter Doest ***

zzRestaurant Sea and Sand

Brusselstraat 13-15, Zeebrugge

Ter Doeststraat 4, Lissewege

Zeedijk 8, Zeebrugge

T + 32 50 54 54 19

T & F + 32 50 54 40 82

T + 32 50 54 42 79

hotelatlas@skynet.be

info@terdoest.be | www.terdoest.be

www.hotelatlas.be

zzIBIS Styles Zeebrugge ***

zzB&B Lisdodde ***

zzEethuys Ambrosius Zeedijk 11, Zeebrugge

Oude Pastoriestraat 1, Lissewege

T + 32 50 54 59 48

Kustlaan 99, Zeebrugge

M + 32 476 97 51 40

info@eethuys-ambrosius.be

T + 32 50 20 12 02 | F + 32 50 27 07 02

info@lisdodde.be | www.lisdodde.be

www.eethuys-ambrosius.be

H8091@accor.com www.ibisstyles.com

zzB&B Pronkenburg **** Ter Doeststraat 30, Lissewege

zzHostellerie De Goedendag *

zzBar - Restaurant The Old Barrel

T + 32 50 54 53 35

Zeedijk 12, Zeebrugge

info@degoedendag.be

T + 32 50 70 36 83

www.degoedendag.be

info@oldbarrel.be | www.oldbarrel.be

T & F + 32 50 54 45 40 M + 32 478 31 76 12

zzBar - Restaurant ’t Zandlopertje

info@pronkenburg.be

Zeedijk 13, Zeebrugge

www.pronkenburg.be

T + 32 50 54 41 05 M + 32 479 39 20 05 hildesnauwaert@hotmail.com

zzBar - Restaurant Lagaar Baron de Maerelaan 4, Zeebrugge T + 32 50 55 26 89 M + 32 475 20 10 79 info@lagaar.com | www.lagaar.com

zzRestaurant Jin Yan Lou (Chinese) Baron de Maerelaan 58, Zeebrugge T&F + 32 50 54 67 07

ZEEBRUGGE VILLAGE

zzMartins fish restaurant

zzBrasserie The Boat House

LISSEWEGE

zzBar - Bistro Ulysses

Sint-Donaaskerkstraat 19, Zeebrugge

Vismijnstraat 26, Zeebrugge

Stationsstraat 25, Lissewege

T + 32 50 54 43 27

T + 32 50 55 23 15

T + 32 50 61 27 67

martinsvisrestaurant@telenet.be www.martinsvisrestaurant.be

M + 32 476 31 27 76

zzTearoom - Bistro ’t Suckerbuckstje Vismijnstraat 44, Zeebrugge

info@ulysses-apero.be www.ulysses-apero.be

T + 32 50 25 02 99

OLD FISH MARKET AREA

zzRestaurant De Kombuis

Tijdokstraat 4, Zeebrugge

M + 32 486 67 47 70

zzRestaurant De Valckenaere Lisseweegs Vaartje 1, Lissewege

zzRestaurant Grand Café Kaai 49

T + 32 50 54 57 59

T + 32 50 67 83 25

Rederskaai 49-50, Zeebrugge

devalckenaere@telenet.be

info@dekombuis.be

T + 32 50 70 39 19

www.restaurantdevalckenaere.be

www.dekombuis.be

M + 32 496 34 31 05 grandcafe.kaai49@gmail.com

zzFish restaurant The Blue Lobster

www.kaai49.be

Tijdokstraat 9, Zeebrugge T + 32 50 68 45 71

zzRestaurant De Goedendag Lisseweegs Vaartje 2, Lissewege T + 32 50 54 53 35

zzGrill De Kade

www.thebluelobster.be

Rederskaai 39, Zeebrugge

info@degoedendag.be www.degoedendag.be

T + 32 50 69 43 68

zzBistro - Fondue restaurant De Steiger

M + 32 478 75 48 84

Werfkaai 11, Zeebrugge M + 32 475 85 01 13

Walram Romboudtstraat 2, Lissewege

zzBistro Wittekerke

www.bistrodesteiger.be

zzRestaurant Tijdok Tijdokstraat 16, Zeebrugge

zzRestaurant De Pepermolen T + 32 50 55 05 03

Rederskaai 38, Zeebrugge

info@restaurantdepepermolen.be

T + 32 50 78 89 84

www.restaurantdepepermolen.be

zzBar - Bistro The Old Steamer

zzBistro Huyze Saeftinghe

M + 32 476 59 65 20

Rederskaai 19, Zeebrugge

Onder de Toren 5, Lissewege

info@tijdok.be | www.tijdok.be

T + 32 50 54 58 25

T + 32 50 82 04 90

info@oldsteamer.be

info@huyzesaeftinghe.be

zzRestaurant Slabbinck

www.oldsteamer.be

Tijdokstraat 36, Zeebrugge T + 32 50 54 52 46

zzFish restaurant ’t Pakhuis

zzRestaurant Hof Ter Doest Ter Doeststraat 4, Lissewege

anne.raes2@pandora.be

Rederskaai 7, Zeebrugge

T + 32 50 54 40 82

www.restaurantslabbinck.be

T + 32 50 67 49 91

info@terdoest.be | www.terdoest.be

pattendr@mac.com | www.tpakhuis.eu

zzBrasserie Nelson Vismijnstraat 24, Zeebrugge

zzRestaurant - Clubhuis Alberta

T + 32 50 54 59 54

Omookaai 1, Zeebrugge

bogaert.isabelle@telenet.be

T + 32 50 54 41 97

www.brasserienelson.be

www.rbsc.be Accommodations and food – 41

Tourist offices Toerisme Brugge (Sea dyke) Zeedijk, Badengebouw Easter holidays, Whitsun weekend, July and August: 10 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. and 2 to 6 p.m.

VVV Lissewege (presbytery) Oude Pastoriestraat 5 Easter holidays, Whitsun weekend and Ascension weekend, period from June 15 to September 15, 2 last weekends of September: from 2 to 5:30 p.m.

More info Toerisme Brugge Postbus 744, B-8000 Brugge T + 32 50 44 46 46 F + 32 50 44 46 45 toerisme@brugge.be www.brugge.be/zeebrugge

THIS MAGAZINE IS A TOURISM BRUGES PUBLICATION CONCEPT AND DESIGN: Magenta nv PRINTED BY: Magenta nv PHOTOGRAPHY: Jan Darthet, Daniël de Kievith, Joris Luyten, Westtoer, Rudy Desmedt, Misjel Decleer, Cel fotografie Stad Brugge, Piet Vandenkerkhove, Stadsarchief Brugge / www.beeldbankbrugge.be (verz. J. A. Rau, verz. Bruselle-Traen), Daniël Devoldere and Jan D’Hondt COPYWRITING: Sophie Allegaert EDITOR: Ans Vanhoute PUBLISHER: Dieter Dewulf, Postbus 744, B-8000 Brugge TRANSLATION: Babel Ophoff Vertalingen SPECIAL THANKS TO: Sophie Allegaert, Lieven Verstraete, Pieter Aspe, VZW Brugge Plus, VVV Lissewege, Stadsarchief Brugge, Maarten du Bois, Gratien Dendooven and Marec. • March 2015 • Toerisme Brugge is not responsible for any inaccuracies or price changes.