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Zeebrugge Lissewege On Sea
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Inspiration guide
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Contents 02 The seaport of Bruges,
from plan to world port
10 Lieven Verstraete and Zeebrugge, ‘true love never dies’
14 Fish from Zeebrugge: still in the sea a short while ago, now on your plate
02
p.
20 Bruges Seaside:
endless holiday feeling
22 A very wide beach 24 Getting lost in Lissewege with Pieter Aspe
28 Mystical stories and legends 32 Lissewege, artists’ village 34 Finding tranquillity in Ter Doest 38 Maps 40 Accommodations and food
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KEY Zeebrugge Lissewege
Tip Excursion Event View Museum/Exhibition Gastronomy
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A special triangle ‘The sea gives, the sea takes’ is an ancient principle to which Bruges owes
Bruges finally regained access to the
at a renowned restaurant or order a
its trade and wealth from the Middle
sea via the Baudouin Canal, and a new
beer with a ‘pote geirnoars’ (portion of
Ages. It is nature that is responsible
seaside resort was born: Zeebrugge!
shrimp). What comes from Zeebrugge,
for the present cultural assets and
A win-win situation! Meanwhile, the
tastes great. But in Lissewege, too, they
tourist attractions of this World Heritage
seaport of Bruges has developed into a
master the art of wining and dining. This
city – most notably thanks to the Zwin,
major world port; it features the widest
is the place to be for gourmets. What’s
Bruges’ access to the sea, which enabled
beach and Zeebrugge offers many
more, they combine art with wining and
successful export. Even when the sea
culinary delights at all levels thanks
dining. So, it is little wonder that both
retreated and humans transformed the
to the fish market and fishing port,
Lieven Verstraete and Pieter Aspe have
hinterland into a magnificent polder
regardless of whether you have a meal
lost their hearts to this region.
area, the clay soil was turned into bricks to construct city gates, churches and monuments. The Cistercians, the great promotors of Brick Gothic, settled in Lissewege and set the tone. At the time, the white polder village by the sea already provided accommodation to devout pilgrims who were on their way to Santiago de Compostela. But the sea set out to recapture its place in the interest of Bruges. At the end of the 19th century, the plans for a seaport became concrete. Lissewege retreated into the hinterland;
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The seaport of Bruges, from plan to world port Become acquainted with the seaport of Bruges, a wondrous place that never sleeps and where the whole world comes together.
How it started... The history of the seaport started when
Nautical Institutions of Bruges' (M.B.Z.)
inaugurated in 1907. King Leopold II
Baron Auguste de Maere, a hydraulic
was established. The M.B.Z. built the
even sailed his private yacht into the
engineer, argued in favour of a direct
port and later managed and ran the
seaport to do the honours. It was not a
link between Bruges and the sea in
new harbour complex. Work started
major success in the early years. This
1877. King Leopold II wanted to develop
in 1896 and was finally completed in
shortcoming can mostly be explained
the port directly along the sea in order
1905. The brand-new port was officially
by a lack of roads, railway connections
to take advantage of the first maritime revolution in which sailing vessels were being replaced by much bigger steel steamers. In 1891 the Belgian government installed the ‘Commission Mixte de Bruges Port de Mer’; its mission was to organise a contest related to building a seaport in Bruges. An agreement was concluded between the Belgian State, the City of Bruges, Mr Louis Coiseau and Mr Jean Cousin on June 1, 1894. It established the conditions for building and exploiting the new port. The new port had to consist of three parts: an outer port on the coast, a sea canal and an inland port just north of the inner city. 1895 was a crucial year; that's when the 'Society of
2 – Zeebrugge
and hinterland industry. Moreover, transatlantic passenger services were less successful than hoped-for. Two regularly scheduled services were finally established: passengers could sail to Hull twice a week and there was a connection with Rotterdam. But the two devastating world wars prevented the seaport from getting off to a good start.
GOOD TO KNOW! • In 1997, a piece of world port was shamelessly taken over by terns. On Sterneneiland (tern island), an artificially created peninsula, you can observe the biggest breeding colony of these rare birds in Western Europe, with seals making regular appearances too. • The seaport of Bruges can welcome the largest containerships in the world thanks to its special coastal location and deep channel. • The seaport of Bruges is known as a fast port of call where ships can easily moor regardless of the tide. • There are about 400 companies operating in the port area; they generate about 10,000 indirect jobs. Along with indirect employment, the port accounts for about 20,000 jobs.
Zeebrugge – 3
The port in times of war Submarines, torpedoes and nocturnal raids. This war story reads like an exciting thriller full of surprising turns. Become acquainted with Zeebrugge's silent but impressive war stories.
connected with Bruges by a canal. In
could always get away via the intact outer
addition, the ‘Kaiserliche Marine’ took
port. During the war years, there were
control of the brand-new seaport of
about thirty submarines operational.
Bruges undamaged. Here, the occupier
The submarines were custom-designed
set up anti-aircraft guns and installed
for the North Sea coast. Thanks to their
batteries right in front of the port
limited size, they could easily avoid
entrance and the old harbour wall to
sandbanks.
protect their fleet of ships arriving and leaving. On November 9, 1914, the first
The Allies used the Channel to ship new
U-boat entered the outer port. The
troops and supplies to the British troops
In fact, in August of 1914, the Germans
submarines were not in the port all
in France. And since virtually no progress
planned to use the port of Dunkerque as
the time but would immediately sail
was being made at the Yser, German
an operating base against the British,
through the Baudoin canal to the much
supreme command set out to block this
but the Yser and the trench war threw
safer inner port which was turned into a
vital supply route using submarines.
a spanner in the works. And so they
modern submarine base. From here the
Initially, it did so in a chivalrous manner.
set their sights on the triangle Bruges-
U-boats could easily head to Zeebrugge
As soon as a U-boat spotted a hostile
Ostend-Zeebrugge, with Ostend and
and Ostend to reach the sea. And if one
warship, a sloop was sent to evacuate
Zeebrugge serving as satellite ports,
of the ports or canals was blocked, they
the crew, and only then was the ship
TIP Follow the warpath in Seafront Exactly 100 years after the German invasion Seafront is commemorating the Great War with the exhibition ‘Besieged coast, occupied port; WWI and Zeebrugge’. The story of Zeebrugge as a base of operation for the war at sea is thematically sketched via some exceptional pieces. Info > see p. 13 www.seafront.be
torpedoed. But it was not long before the
Battle of Ypres, the famous Battle of
British introduced their Q ships; heavily
Passchendaele. British forces planned
armed vessels that looked like ordinary
to break through the German front
fishing boats or merchant vessels, but
line in order to liberate the coast and
that had concealed artillery. They let the
regain control of the ports. A hundred
U-boats come close and then fired at
days of fierce fighting resulted in total
them. This resulted in a tougher approach
destruction, just 8 kilometres of ground
by the Germans, which also led to
gained and 400,000 dead British soldiers.
passenger ships being attacked. Despite
The Battle of Passchendaele went down
international outrage, on February 1,
in history as one of the bloodiest battles
1917, the policy of unrestricted submarine
of all time. But the British did not give
warfare was adopted. In other words:
up and soon forged new plans: a raid
torpedo straight away. Now the British
on the seaports of Bruges and Ostend.
were even more determined – Zeebrugge
Vice-Admiral Roger Keyes was ordered
and Ostend had to be reconquered
to prepare the raid and to be the one in
at any cost. That prompted the Third
command.
TIP Walk past war heritage The Zeebrugge heritage walk, which starts near Seafront, sheds light on Zeebrugge's unique place in Flemish fishing history and the fate of this port during World War I. You can purchase the map at Toerisme Brugge (Sea dyke), at Seafront or you can order it via www.fietsen-wandelen.be.
Zeebrugge – 5
The Zeebrugge raid
the smokescreen, the Germans opened fire. Half of the British soldiers on the
The plan was to fill three obsolete
first ferry were killed or injured. But they
warships with concrete and sink them
kept sailing, landed on the harbour wall
crossways in the outer harbour, causing
and exactly at that moment a British
the harbour channel to be blocked. To
submarine blew itself up under the
that end, however, the British troops
viaduct, precisely according to plan. The
first had to manage to land on the mole
first British warship that passed the
unnoticed and take out the batteries
harbour wall became entangled in the
intended to defend the mole. Small,
German nets and the crew sank the ship
fast boats were to put up a concealing
on the spot. The two other ships managed
smokescreen. At the same time, an old
to enter the harbour entrance virtually
submarine was to blow up the viaduct
unnoticed. They positioned crossways in
linking the mole to the mainland, to rule
the harbour channel and detonated the
out any reinforcements. The plan could
charge. Mission accomplished. However,
only succeed at calm weather, with wind
a few days later, the Germans had already
blowing inland to keep the smokescreen
created a new harbour channel behind
in front of the ships, and high tide to be
the ships. But this major surprise attack
able to scale the mole. And all this was to
affected the self-confidence of the
happen around midnight. Attempts were
Germans. Even the emperor visited the
To commemorate the courageous
made, but in the night of April 22 to 23,
scene to assess the damage.
attempt of Vice-Admiral Keyes
on the day of the Feast of Saint George,
COMMEMORATING THE WAR
and to pay homage to the
all British troops were ready. Sir Roger
During the Second World War the seaport
more than 200 victims, the
Keyes, alluding to Saint Georges (the
of Bruges played a rather small role. It
famous Zeebrugge Raid is
English patron saint who had defeated
was only shortly before the liberation that
commemorated every year on
a dragon) launched the campaign with
the Germans began to systematically
April 23 or on the Sunday closest
the words: ‘Let’s give the dragon’s tail a
destroy the port facilities. As a result, the
to April 23. On Saturday homage
damned good twist’.
port was largely destroyed and had to be
is also paid at the Saint George’s
rebuilt for the second time in a row.
Day Monument, which shows the
The Germans initially mistook the marine
raid on a commemorative tablet.
engines for an air raid, but they soon
On Admiraal Keyesplein there is
realised the fog was a smokescreen.
a monument made from pieces
Flares revealed the British chimneys
of the pier where British ships
and search lights illuminated the mole.
collided when they unloaded their
When a sudden gust of wind blew away
troops. Be sure to stop at the beautiful military cemetery near 'Sint-Donaaskerk'. This is one of the rare places where you find both German and British soldiers. An authentic, untouched and intimate place that illustrates the madness of war. It is guaranteed to affect you.
The port today Despite all this suffering caused by the war, the port made a strong recovery. Due to its central location and its direct access to the North Sea, the busiest sea route in the world, the seaport of Bruges has developed into an international seaport.
In 2000 globalisation of the world economy enabled the seaport of Bruges to make a major breakthrough on an international level. Almost 10,000 ships moor here every year and the seaport is an important junction for fast-growing global container traffic and European rollon/ roll-off traffic. Many large distribution companies have settled in the port so they can serve their European customers. The seaport of Bruges is a major port of import for paper and foodstuffs like fresh fruit and fruit juices, vegetables, potatoes, coffee, meat, fish and dairy products. It is even the official European distribution centre for Zespri kiwis from New Zealand. The seaport of Bruges is also an important passenger port, a large cruise port and a world leader in car traffic. It is the most important port in the world for the import and export of new cars, which are transported within Europe and
FIGURES TO IMPRESS
worldwide. And we mustn't forget gas, which is imported in two ways. On the
• The seaport’s 37 wind turbines supply electricity to 25,000 households.
one hand liquid gas arrives, mainly from
• The West and East Dams, the concrete arms which enclose the first mole, together
Qatar, and is stored in the LNG terminal in the outport. That is a great example of technical ingenuity! On the other hand a pipeline links the seaport with Norway and Great Britain. This gas continues to France and Southern Europe.
account for 10 million tonnes of natural stone and 60,000 concrete blocks. • About 1.2 million trucks pass through the port every year. Each day, about twenty cargo ships leave the port to England, Scandinavia, the Baltic States and Southern Europe. • The seaport of Bruges has specialised in the carriage of unaccompanied truck loads. Almost 90% of all Ro-Ro cargo crosses without a driver. • The annual record for cars currently stands at 2.2 million handled cars. • Today, the seaport offers no fewer than 15 weekly line services to the Middle and Far East. • The seaport of Bruges is a gas distribution platform, supplying 15% of the NorthWestern European market. • For 2015, there are already 142 cruise calls scheduled, accounting for some 300,000 passengers.
Zeebrugge – 7
TIP Take a tour of the port A cruise around the port with the Zephira, a passenger boat owned by Franlis, is the ideal way to see how things work in an international port. An audio system and several screens give a full explanation during the port tour. You can also call up information about the vessels en route. If you prefer to experience a cruise around the port at your own tempo then you can download a free app on your smartphone. The app is available in two versions, one for adults and one for children. If you don’t have a smartphone you can borrow a device on board. Franlis also organises North Sea cruises to Thorntonbank, the first Belgian offshore wind farm. Open > March 29 - October 11: weekends and holidays at 2 p.m. | July and August: daily at 2 and 4 p.m. | August 1 - 16: extra departure at 11 a.m. Price > adults: €9.50 | children 3 - 11 years old: €7 | seniors: €9 Info > boarding 20 minutes before departure | corner of Tijdokstraat and Vismijnstraat (near Maritime Theme Park Seafront, Old Fishing Port) www.havenrondvaarten.be
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TIP Cross the harbour area Want to discover the port from all sides? A tour of the port by boat and bus is the perfect solution! During the tours a guide will reveal all the secrets related to the daily operation of the port of Bruges. When you purchase a combination ticket you also get a discount off an admission ticket to Seafront. Open > every Tuesday in July and August at 1:45 p.m., immediately followed by a tour of the port at 4 p.m., tour ends around 5:15 p.m. Price > adults: €12 | children under 12: €9.50 | includes one refreshment in a fishermen's café Info > board at car park on the corner of Tijdokstraat and Vismijnstraat (near Seafront) tickets as per availability | register in advance at: Toerisme Brugge (Sea dyke, opening hours: July and August every day from 10 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. and from 2 to 6 p.m.) www.brugge.be/zeebrugge
NOTE THIS DOWN IN YOUR DIARY! June 21 – September 21 > Beaufort beyond the borders: art in the port
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TIP Observe the loading and unloading spectacle The look-out on the Zweedse Kaai (Swedish Wharf) is located between the outport and inner port. From the terrace you can admire the cruise ships and see the gigantic
For lovers of contemporary art, the coast is the place to
car ships sail into the Vandamme lock. At the end of the
be in the summer as it is host to the fifth edition of the
Rederskaai and Omookaai, you get a unique view of the
triennial Beaufort. The recipe of this concept remains
outport. From the look-out platform near the Visserskruis
a unique mixture of typical coastal ingredients and art.
(Fishing Cross), a monument for fishermen lost at sea, you
Nevertheless, this edition of Beaufort is innovative in
get a front-row seat for observing the steel tankers and the
terms of method and approach: Three distinctive nature
impressive giant tankers as they come and go.
and heritage sites on the coast each play host to a group exhibition and are linked together by the works of art in the various coastal municipalities. www.beaufort2015.be
Zeebrugge – 9
“To be able to look at the port from that vast beach, that’s exactly what makes Zeebrugge unique.”
Lieven Verstraete about his Zeebrugge The fact that true love never dies is proven by Canvas face Lieven Verstraete. Zeebrugge was his first big coast love and today this resident of Bruges still is a welcome guest here. ‘Getting a breath of fresh air on the beach in the winter, catching up with friends in the summer, kiting and admiring the port. Simple happiness in Zeebrugge.’
It is not surprising that Zeebrugge, as
ended when a friend of mine bought an
face.’ And in the summer we fraternize
for so many Bruges residents, also was
apartment on the Sea dyke and I started
over a couple of beers. ‘Zeebrugge is the
the first coastal love of Canvas celebrity
going there more regularly again.
beach of Bruges residents, so you can
Lieven Verstraete. And a first true love
I rediscovered and embraced Zeebrugge
find the whole city here, and that is a lot
is hard to replace. ‘Zeebrugge was the
again in no time.’ The old flame flared
of fun. Sometimes you haven’t seen each
seaside resort we would always go to
up and these days Lieven can be found
other for a year and it isn’t until you get
with the whole family; it’s the place
in the seaside resort both in winter and
here that you have the time to catch up,
where we got our first beach memories;
summer. ’In winter, on sunny Sundays,
on one of the many beach terraces.’ This
where we paddled in the water for
I enjoy walking on that vast, empty beach.
is not to say that the entire day is spent
the first time; where we ate our first
I start in Zeebrugge, take a brisk walk all
doing nothing. ‘Since about two years,
boules de berlin, where we applied
the way to Blankenberge, and then hop
I go kiting every now and then because
too little sunscreen for the first time
on the tram and come back. You walk
even at high tide you still have a very vast
and went home with sunburn. Many of
this fantastic route for a full hour, whilst
stretch of beach here. Zeebrugge ought
my summer childhood memories are
enjoying the sun shining straight in your
to become the Mekka of kiting! No noise
set in Zeebrugge’, Lieven says. When Lieven was allowed to go to the Chiro movement on Sundays, he often wound up in Zeebrugge. ‘We always went by
TIP Lievens’ favourite secret place!
bike, which was a great adventure in
‘A classic that is typical of Zeebrugge is The Old Steamer. No frills, but highly
itself, and we would roll down the high
authentic. Not expensive, nothing fancy, just decent and good quality. That’s how
dunes, straight into the water. Those
simple it is in Zeebrugge. And the fact that I met my wife at The Old Steamer and
were the days.’ But then the love cooled
danced with her here for the very first time is also a relevant factor….’
off somewhat and Lieven also grew fond
Bar - Bistro The Old Steamer Rederskaai 19, Zeebrugge, T + 32 50 54 58 25
of other seaside resorts. Luckily, true love never dies. ‘Granted, I was unfaithful
www.oldsteamer.be
to Zeebrugge for some time, but that
Zeebrugge – 11
“Zeebrugge remains one of the best kept secrets on our coast – not the chic glamour of Knokke-Heist, not the popular character of Blankenberge, but right in between. In fact, Zeebrugge ought to remain our secret.” – Lieven Verstraete
nuisance, spectacular for all sunbathers
that you can observe the port from the
and plenty of room to please everyone.’
beach, only adds to its attraction. That
Lieven can live with the view of the
vast beach right next to that hectic port,
port. ‘About ten years ago, I lived on
it is precisely that ambiguous feeling that
Rederskaai for a few months; then you
makes Zeebrugge so special. Extremes
have a seat in the front row. You see all
meet here, and that is quite rare.’
those massive container ships entering the port and that continues to intrigue. That port is Zeebrugge, and the fact
TIP Take a brisk walk The Coastal Walking Route is by far the most complete network of walking paths on the coast. The route is a network of paved and unpaved footpaths between De Panne and Knokke-Heist. It links the best of what the coastal municipalities have to offer in terms of culture, nature, maritime heritage and couleur locale. You plan your own walking route using signposted junctions which are marked in the handy map brochure. It is best to start in Zeebrugge at the entry point across from the railway station in Strandwijk (Beach area). This map can be purchased at Toerisme Brugge (Sea dyke) or can be ordered via www.fietsen-wandelen.be.
12 – Zeebrugge
TIP Visit a museum… ship You can see the West-Hinder and the Foxtrot, a lightship and a submarine, from the Rederskaai. They are the two main attractions at the Seafront Maritime Theme Park. On board the Russian submarine, a steel colossus that is about 100 metres long, you can experience how oppressive life was for the 75 submariners. You can settle your nerves after that oppressive submarine experience by taking the helm of the lightship West-Hinder. Until 1995 it was a bright red lighthouse on the North Sea, now it is high and dry. Open > July and August: 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. | September June: 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. (except on 25/12 and 1/1) | different opening hours in the winter (Nov./Dec.) and annual closing: see website Price > children under 1 metre: free (if accompanied by an adult) | children under 12: €9 | adults: €12.50 | 60+: €11 | special discounts: see website www.seafront.be
Zeebrugge – 13
Fish from Zeebrugge: still in the sea a short while ago, now on your plate Good news! Zeebrugge offers true culinary treats thanks to its active fishing port, high-tech fish market, many restaurants, harbour cafés and fish boutiques. Let yourself be led by a Zeebrugge fishmonger and hurry to them. Bon appetit!
Become acquainted with fish wholesaler Maarten du Bois
My job was to cook the whelks and remove them. Many thousands of kilos have passed through my hands.’ One day, when the fish filleter was there, little Maarten grabbed a knife and set to work himself. ‘My father saw I was able to do it and from then on he would also let me clean fish. If you were covering for someone and you did ok, he would
Maarten du Bois grew up among
let you continue.’ Not that Maarten was
fish. One of his grandfathers had an
dreaming of a fishing career. ‘I also
old-fashioned herring cart and sold
went to school, studied pedagogics
soused herring, shrimp, smoked eel
and physical therapy, but eventually
and rollmops. The other grandfather
I quit. During my traineeship, I realised
ran a sprat and herring smokehouse.
it wasn’t my cup of tea after all.’ As if
Grandma had her own little business
by chance, a restaurant owner asked
jellying eel and shrimp. ‘My
Maarten if he could supply a nice
grandmother lived two houses down
turbot. ‘That’s how it all started; it’s
the street. From the age of six or so,
as simple as that. Before I knew it,
I would help her peeling shrimp. As
I was in the business. One minute I was
I got older, not more than ten years,
giving massages, and the next I was
I was allowed to help my father, who
delivering fish to a customer; as if I was
was selling fresh fish at the market.
predestined to do this.’
14 – Zeebrugge
Maarten made a spectacular start. ‘From Iceland to Morocco, from Ireland to the Seychelles, from Canada to Oman, I had contacts everywhere and they supplied me with fresh fish and shellfish. During those first few
THE FISHING ACADEMY
years, I did not get much sleep. Huge volumes of fish, an extreme pace, but
Maarten du Bois intends to establish the first Belgian
you can’t keep that up. When I realised
Fishing Academy in Zeebrugge. ‘For years, the
that, I began focusing on local fish.’
Netherlands and France have had real fishing academies
Today, Maarten can still be found at
where people can learn all aspects of the trade. Such
the Zeebrugge fish auction early in
academies do not exist over here and that is a shame. In
the morning. ‘Every purchase is a
fact, at present there is no school where people can learn
study. Typically, there are 7 to 8 boats
to fillet and process fish.’ This is precisely why Maarten
in Zeebrugge, but there are as many
is currently putting together a theoretical and practical
in Ostend too. You need about half an
curriculum and is gathering a team of professionals
hour to inspect the fish. We check the
around him to be able to officially open the Fishing
gills and mucous layer, the solidity of
Academy on January 1, 2016. Graduates will receive the
the fish. This way, we can establish very
title of ‘Seafish Ambassador’. To be continued.
quickly from which boat to buy or not.’ Every buyer has their favourite boats,
www.chefssecret.be
but buying in a random fashion is no
Zeebrugge – 15
option. ‘Sometimes your favourite boat
Since Maarten lives in Zeebrugge,
will have a new skipper or has explored
he prefers to purchase the fish in the
different fishing grounds, resulting in
Zeebrugge fish market. ‘As long as
merchandise of slightly less quality
there is enough fish in Zeebrugge, we
being brought ashore. You can never buy
buy here. While I may be a bit biased,
in a random fashion.’ And that’s when
I do have the impression that fish
the game starts. Some buyers operate
from the Zeebrugse fish market is
from the auction room; Maarten follows
slightly better.’ Moreover, about 90 %
the auction from a distance, from his
of his customers live within a 20-km
office. ‘As soon as the clock starts
radius. ‘This way we can respond to our
turning, it’s all systems go. Sometimes
customers’ needs very quickly.’ As for
you will hit at the right moment and you
his own culinary tastes, this avid hobby
will see the fish price go up. At other
cook and gourmet loves scallops, ‘raw,
times, the price will drop and you have
with a pinch of pepper and a little olive
pushed too early. That sucks of course;
oil, that’s really all it needs’ and turbot.
because in three seconds you can either
‘A grilled slice of turbot, new potatoes
win or lose a lot of money. Believe me;
with Béarnaise sauce or a fillet of John
we don’t need to visit a casino to get our
Dory with shrimp sauce, I’m always up
adrenaline shot.’
for that.’
TIP Maarten’s favourite secret place! ‘Just like everyone else, I like going to ’t Werftje, but usually you will find me at Wittekerke. There, they go out of their way to put local fish on the menu. Dog fish, slip sole and plaice fillet add a touch of Zeebrugge to the menu. Moreover, this bistro has a great terrace with a view of the sailing yachts and the old fishing port, a place where you can enjoy the sun all day long.’ Bistro Wittekerke Rederskaai 38, Zeebrugge, T + 32 50 78 89 84 www.facebook.com/bistro.zeebrugge
FRESH FROM ZEEBRUGGE Whether you go out for lunch, dinner or purchase some fish at a fish shop, one thing is certain: you'll be eating fresh fish from Zeebrugge! • Vishandel Saskia, Vismijnstraat 34, Zeebrugge, T + 32 50 54 46 74 • Vishandel Westhinder, Vismijnstraat 20, Zeebrugge, T + 32 50 54 41 47 • Vishandel StemiFish, Tijdokstraat 1, Zeebrugge, T + 32 50 54 57 81 You can find a list of restaurants in Zeebrugge on pp. 40 and 41.
TIP Get a taste of a fisherman’s life You can get a real taste of a fisherman's life every Wednesday in July and August. You can visit Seafront Maritime Theme Park in combination with a guided mariners walk around the Old Fish Market and visit the atelier of fish shop Saskia or fish shop Westhinder. Afterwards you can have a drink in a typical fishermen's café. In addition, if you participate you will also get a nice discount on a tour of the port by boat organised by Franlis. Open > every Wednesday in July and August | from 10 a.m.: visit Seafront Maritime Theme Park, 3:30 p.m.: guided mariners walk and fish atelier visit, 5 p.m.: refreshment in a fishermen's café Price > advance sales: adults: €12 | children under 12: €9.50. Same day sales: adults: €16 | children under 12: €12.50 Info > tickets as per availability from: • Toerisme Brugge (Sea dyke, opening hours: July and August every day from 10 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. and from 2 to 6 p.m.) • Seafront: T + 32 50 55 14 15 • Same day tickets can only be purchased at the Seafront cash desk, opening hours see p. 13 www.seafront.be
DID YOU KNOW THAT... • on a busy day there are 100 people working in the fish market? • the largest volume of fish is bought via the Internet? • there is a constant temperature of 5°C on the auction floor? • to preserve fish for as long as possible, one must never break the cold chain? • sorting is done both by hand and by machine? • there are minimum prices for the fish? • there are 3 types of quality sorting? • the freshness of the fish is assessed by giving penalty points? • there have been minimum sizes defined for each fish species?
Zeebrugge – 17
Roam through the old and new fish markets When the port was built, the Zeebrugge fishermen were only offered a very modest harbour of refuge at the site of the present-day Tide Dock. When it opened in 1906, it was almost exclusively fishermen from Heist who moored there. Since, at the time, there was no real fish market yet (it wasn’t created until 1923), the fisherwomen still peddled the fish on the street. It was only in 1928 that a fully-fledged fishing port was constructed. It was not long before fishmongers, shipbuilders, ice factories and countless fishing pubs began setting up shop around the port. The Old Fish Market by the Prince Albert Dock, presently Seafront, was established in 1948 and was expanded in 1966 and 1984. In 1993, the Fish Market was moved to a brand-new building in the inner port. Until then, fishermen offloaded their sole, plaice, whiting and turbot early in the morning, after which the catch was immediately sorted and auctioned.
15
NOTE THIS DOWN IN YOUR DIARY! August 15 > Flemish Fish Day This attractive day is completely dedicated to Flemish fish! Take a look aboard a fishing boat, be tempted by the delicious fish samples on the Taste Boat and attend a show cooking event in the Cooking Theatre. Guest chefs will gladly welcome you to their pop-up restaurants. If you prefer stirring the pots yourself, then you may also participate, as a hobby cook or a professional cook, in various cooking contests with a star jury. www.brugge.be/zeebrugge
18 – Zeebrugge
Though the former fish market has since given way to the maritime theme park Seafront, the old fishing port still breathes the same atmosphere. The popular and mysterious atmosphere around the fishing dock seems unaffected. The Fishing Cross, the old shrimp cutter Virtus and the authentic fishing pubs all contribute. In Seafront, nostalgic souls can hear what it was like in the old days, when the fish was still being sold and the bids were being called out by the auctioneer on the quay. Zeebrugge's fleet currently consists of roughly 40 ships that are active in different zones. Fish is sold in the new
FISHERMEN’S WISDOM AND SUPERSTITION
fish market on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays. Sole, plaice, cod, lemon sole, skate wings, haddock, squid, scallops, shrimp, monkfish, brill, turbot and langoustines are all on offer. Specially adapted machinery and 60 employees inspect and sort the fish, which is then sold via a high-tech auction system. Yesterday it was
• Many fishermen would wear one earring against headaches, eyesight and hearing problems, among other things. • A right shoe dredged up brought good luck and was attached to the mast. Left shoes were thrown back into the sea. • To provide protection against misfortune, sometimes clogs were covered, at the bottom, with cross-shaped copper nails. • A safe passage was enforced by hiding in the net or attaching to the mast a consecrated palm branch or statue of Our Lady.
swimming in the sea, today it is on your
• By throwing a few coins into the sea, a good catch or a good wind was bought.
plate.
• It was taboo to speak about or cut hair on board. That’s because hair was associated with witches. • Tobacco, too, was forbidden as it could chase away the fish. • Fishermen were not allowed to bring long bread on board as this would result in a long journey.
TIP Explore Seafront In the huge Old Fish Market building you will discover the secrets of the sea and the rich fishing history of Zeebrugge. The interactive and multimedia exhibition ‘Fish, from boat to plate’ takes you to unprecedented depths and introduces you to the enormous variety of fish in the North Sea: from tiny shrimp and handsome brill to terrifying monkfish. You will also discover the route that fish follow from the sea to your plate and you will be swamped with all kinds of fish facts. The auction game takes centre stage; you can actively participate in a fish auction. Info > see p. 13 www.seafront.be
Zeebrugge – 19
Bruges Seaside: an endless holiday feeling An incredibly wide beach, a dyke on a human scale and a train that drops you right next to the beach – that must be Bruges Seaside, officially the largest beach of the coast and the only seaside resort where you can park for free everywhere.
Family beach of Bruges residents
beach and are ok with the fact that the rest of the world has yet to discover Zeebrugge. Thanks to this Bruges loyalty, Zeebrugge is an exceptionally pleasant place where everyone seems
Bruges residents like to think of it as
to know everyone. People come here
their own private beach. Therefore, they
to enjoy a beach that still looks how a
are very reluctant to provide information
beach is supposed to look: pure and
to the outside world. They will only tell
clean – an ocean of space where young
their best friends how lovely it is out
and old find their own place. Moreover,
here all year round. The beach is so vast
from the Easter holidays until the end
that even on the busiest of days in the
of October, the youngest beach rascals
tourist season it is never overcrowded.
can enjoy themselves in the beach play
In the summer there is plenty of space
village, which includes swings, climbing
for sunbathing; in the winter it is a
frames and a real play boat. Parents
great place to catch a breath of fresh
who wish to keep an eye on their
air for several hours. So needless to
rascals, can do so from the adjacent
say, residents of Bruges cherish ‘their’
beach terraces.
NOTE THIS DOWN IN YOUR DIARY! April 24 – May 11 > Week van de Zee (Ocean Week)
24
‘Week van de Zee’, being the healthy place par excellence to catch a breath of fresh air, entices everybody out of doors. Moreover, ‘healthy’ is the central theme. By means of field work and ‘do’ activities for young and old the importance of a healthy ocean is highlighted. Check the website for an overview of all the activities and the programme of the family weekend on May 2 and 3! www.weekvandezee.be
20 – Zeebrugge
NO-NONSENSE FACTS ABOUT THE OCEAN • The average depth of the North Sea is 95 metres. • Minerals are essential ingredients to allow life in the ocean. • Billions of tiny seaweeds live in the ocean. When the seaweeds are dead, they release a chemical called dimethyl sulphide. We refer to this chemical as ‘the odour of the ocean’. • The longest-living shell from the North Sea can get up to 150 years old. • One litre of seawater contains an average of 34.5 grams of salt. • The average temperature in the upper water layers of the North Sea is 5 to 6°C in the winter and 14 to 15°C in the summer.
THE PALACE HOTEL, SYMBOL OF THE SEA DYKE The Palace Hotel, which still dominates the Sea dyke in Zeebrugge, has experienced an eventful history. Construction was started in 1908 to welcome German tourists before they set sail to the United States. A luxury hotel tailor-made for anyone who was rich enough to cross the ocean. The building was inaugurated exactly 14 days before the start of World War I. At the opening the then mayor of Zeebrugge is said to have concluded his speech with the prophetic words ‘...let's hope that the Germans come soon’. They did come… The hotel was immediately occupied by German troops.
Zeebrugge – 21
5. Free Parking
Parking is free in Zeebrugge.
1. Webcam
Do you need a weather update? Take a look at the webcam or watch the weather report on Canvas/ÉÉN! www.brugge.be/zeebrugge
2. Badengebouw
The Badengebouw, the rally point! There is an information desk, a first-aid station, a toilet as well as facilities for people with mobility problems (adapted toilet, shower and beach wheelchairs). www.brugge.be/zeebrugge
6. Work of Art by Bilquin
Both young and old are intrigued by ‘The man who saw the boat, in the air’, a work of art by Jean Bilquin.
7. Beach Playground
The playground on the beach is challenging! It offers swings and climbing frames suitable for different ages.
8. Beach Terraces
You can enjoy some refreshments with your feet in the sand. Zeebrugge has wonderful beach terraces.
3. Train to the beach
9. Beach Library
4. Surf club
10. Sports Beach
Did you know that the train stops really close to the beach? www.b-rail.be The Icarus Surf Club knows everything about surfing, kite surfing and paddle boarding. www.icarussurfclub.be
Every summer you can borrow books from the extensive collection at the Beach Library. All summer long qualified instructors will get you sweating on the sports beach. www.brugge.be/sport
11. Nature Reserve De Fonteintjes
You can admire orchids and enjoy all the peace and quiet that the dunes provide in De Fonteintjes. A guide can also be reserved. www.natuurpunt.be
12. Films on the Beach
Free open-air cinema every Thursday in July and August (three films per day). www.bruggeplus.be
13. WeCanDance
Get swept up in the exuberant atmosphere of this electronic dance festival on August 8 and 9. www.wecandance.be
14. Saint George's Day Walk
This walk takes you right into the sea via the western pier. Two large look-out platforms guarantee a fantastic sea, beach and harbour panorama.
Getting lost in Lissewege with Pieter Aspe No one can fathom and describe Bruges, Zeebrugge and Lissewege better than the successful author Pieter Aspe. And though he has enjoyed the sea air for quite some time now, he is and remains a resident of Bruges. Indeed, he already closed Lissewege in his heart many years ago.
“ In Lissewege there are enough mysteries and enigmas to keep fascinating an author.” When Pieter Aspe was about sixteen
of their house specials: ‘Paling in ‘t
of course, is a beautiful rural village
years old, he frequently cycled from
groen’ (freshwater eel in a green herb
and, moreover, it is a place that holds
Bruges to Lissewege to find some peace
sauce). They brought a plate with eight
memories; memories that I cherish.
and quiet – already back then. And the
pieces of eel, a perfect serving. But
And Lissewege also fit perfectly into the
successful author has continued to do
immediately thereafter, they brought
script. I was looking for a quiet place and
so. ‘Meanwhile, the village has become
out another pot containing another half
few places are quieter than Lissewege.
a bit more popular, but in those days it
a kilo of eel. The tone was set. So large
So the choice was easy.’ Moreover, with
was really deserted, almost extinct. A
servings – ideal for people who very
its many mysteries and secrets, the
few cafés by the church, three old men
hungry. No one can finish it, but that
village itself nearly becomes a character
who drank their beers there and a ferry
is precisely their signature trademark.
itself. ‘There are so many stories and
that took you to the other side to a café
Everyone knows it is impossible to leave
legends circulating that it is impossible
whose owner had a striking personality
Hof Ter Doest and still be hungry.’ So,
not to ask yourself any questions. For
and served nice dried fish.’ Intriguing
it is little wonder that Lissewege also
instance, there is the barn of Ter Doest,
enough to keep coming back, and Pieter
found its way to the author’s work. The
which was once part of a huge abbey
did just that. He soon discovered the
bestsellers ‘Postcriptum’ and ‘13’ are set
with a lot of land. The monks not only
restaurant Hof Ter Doest. ‘The very
in part in the white village. ‘There are a
had a lot of power, they also made
first time I went there, I ordered one
number of reasons for that. Lissewege,
lots of money. And it is whispered that
24 – Lissewege
Willem Van Saefthinge, after reaping
these mysteries alive. ’The story of the
fame in the Battle of the Spurs, killed
Templars is also a saga that Pieter Aspe
the abbot and had to flee to the Holy
finds fascinating, if only because no one
Land. A little history drenched in fantasy;
really knows what it is all about. And
that appeals to me, of course. And by
then there is that church tower without
writing about it myself, I help keep all
a steeple. ‘Some people claim that, in
TIP Pieter’s favourite secret place! ‘Some time ago, I discovered Ulysses, exquisite wines, a beautiful location and a menu featuring a mix of delicacies from various continents as well as uncommon snacks. The picture is perfect!’ Bar - Bistro Ulysses Stationsstraat 25, Lissewege, T + 32 50 61 27 67 www.ulysses-apero.be
Lissewege – 25
“Lissewege is, of course, a very beautiful rural village and, moreover, it is a place that holds memories; memories that I cherish.” – Pieter Aspe
the Middle Ages, this church tower served as a lighthouse. It was the responsibility of the watcher of the tower to make sure that there was always a fire burning on the roof to allow the ships, which entered via the Zwin, to reach Bruges safely. But there are enough arguments to debunk this theory. Not only is Lissewege to far away from the sea, in those days the church was surrounded by small wooden houses with a thatched roof. Flying sparks could have easily set the village ablaze.’ So there are enough mysteries and enigmas to keep fascinating an author. And that is precisely the effect Lissewege has on Pieter Aspe. ‘In fact, Lissewege has not changed since I was sixteen. A few more facades have been painted white, there has been a lot of renovation done, but it remains a real village, with a real village mentality. These days, at Café Den Ouden Toren, you can find a few tourists there, but also people who play cards on a regular basis. And that’s precisely what makes Lissewege so charming. I like to go there to sit on a terrace and have a drink or take a stroll through the polders.’ So Lissewege may very well come up in one of Aspe’s future books. ‘Sometimes you need a specific location for a particular scene - a deserted corner or a place where few people come. And there are not many places like that in Flanders. Moreover, I always draw from things around me; places and areas that I know, that I visit. So who knows, perhaps this is to be continued…’
TIP Go on a quest This walk immerses you in the fascinating history of Lissewege, taking you to the nicest secret places. You might even run into the Templars... The quest is available from July 1 to August 31 at VVV Lissewege (presbytery) and Toerisme Brugge (Sea dyke). www.brugseommeland.be/zoektochten
26 – Lissewege
TIP Cycle à la carte Do you want to cycle around and discover Lissewege and its surroundings just like Pieter? That's a great idea because Lissewege is the ideal departure point for a cycling trip. The church is a great bicycle starting point. It is easily accessible by car or by public transportation, there is free parking and a handy info panel will get you going in the right direction. The area around Lissewege, Zeebrugge and Bruges is shown on the cycling network maps ‘Brugse Ommeland Noord’ (The Bruges Woodland and Wetland North) and ‘Kust’ (The Belgian Coast). You can map out your own cycling route using the cycling junctions. If you want to cycle in the east coast polder, a vast and open polder landscape interwoven with canals and dykes, then you should purchase the thematic cycling route ‘Fietsen tussen weidevogels en vriezeganzen’ (Cycling amongst meadow birds and wintering geese). Polder lovers can also try the thematic cycling route ‘Fietsen tussen zoet en zout water’ (Cycling between freshwater and salt water) which links the port, Zeebrugge and Lissewege via freshwater and salt water areas. You can purchase these maps at VVV Lissewege (presbytery) and Toerisme Brugge (Sea dyke) or you can order them via www.fietsen-wandelen.be.
Mystical stories and legends Lissewege belongs on a postcard: a giant church, a silent canal, infinite flat grassland surrounded by bent willow trees and an authentic, untarnished view of the village. An untouched village that has charmed visitors for centuries. Immerse yourself in an exciting story in which Knights Templar and pilgrims play a leading role.
Lissewege, a stop on the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela
this as a sign that the Virgin Mary wanted
impressive church. Despite all their noble
to be worshipped on that location. A small
intentions, things fared badly for the
Romanesque church was built and the
Knights Templar. They were accused of
statue was given a prominent place. Large
all kinds of crimes and in 1312 they were
groups of pilgrims followed and greeted
burnt at the stake. You can still spy traces
the miracle statue. That’s how Lissewege
of the Knights Templar in the church in
developed into a famous Virgin Mary place
Lissewege. It requires some searching,
of pilgrimage and the first stop on the
but perceptive eyes will undoubtedly find
coast for pilgrims from the north who were
the half hidden stone head of Baphomet.
travelling to Santiago de Compostela.
It has been suggested that the Knights
Those who climb the tower of the 13th-
Templar hired serfs to build chapels and
century Our Lady of the Visitation Church
The pilgrims slept in the Sint-Jacobshuis
cathedrals. Once their task was complete
ask themselves how a village of no more
and the SpaniĂŤnhof, very near the church.
they were rewarded with a letter of safe-
than 300 residents could ever have paid for
According to author Johan Ballegeer and
conduct. They became Freemasons. In
such a cathedral of a church. The answer
others, the Knights Templar guarded the
every church, also in Lissewege, those
is hiding in a medieval legend...
pilgrimage route in order to ensure the
Freemasons left their signatures behind.
pilgrims' safety. They wanted to make sure In those days fishermen from Heist used
that all those who undertook the difficult
to fish in the streams around Lissewege.
trip arrived safely. The Knights Templar
One day while walking near the streams
were initially a poor religious order of
they found a statue of a woman with a child
knights, but their popularity resulted in
in her arms. They thought she looked like
generous gifts and they quickly evolved
the Virgin Mary. They took the statue to
into a rich and powerful order. According
Heist, but the next day it was in the stream
to rumour, they provided some financing
once again. This phenomenon repeated
in 1225 so that the small Romanesque
itself a few times and the fishermen saw
church could be replaced with the current
Lissewege – 29
After that ecclesiastical find be sure to climb the 264 steps in the church tower. You will enjoy an indescribable polder panorama once you reach the top. On a clear day you can admire Ostend, the island of Walcheren and all the steeples in between. A panorama that you will not soon forget. Once you are back on the ground, visit the graveside of Frans ‘Sus’ Verleyen. There is a quote on his headstone by the author Harry Mulisch: ‘It is best to augment the riddle’. And that's just what he does. Perhaps it is simply a happy coincidence, but Frans Verleyen was a Freemason… That's something you can daydream about when walking along the
TIP Unravel the mystery
'Vaartje'. This old waterway, which was dug in the 13th century to connect Lissewege with Bruges, is truly beautiful. It's the
To understand the mystery of the huge Our Lady of the
ideal place for daydreaming. Of course people used to do other
Visitation Church you must climb the tower, which never
activities here. Bluestone from Tournai was transported via this
received a steeple due to a lack of money. Once you
waterway for the construction of the church. A nice detail:
reach the top you can admire the white village without
the stones reached the construction site via the small black-and-
hindrance.
white painted door across from the church entrance. In addition, the
Open > Church: 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. | June 1 to September 30
foresightful Ter Doest monks used this waterway as a trade
from 9 a.m. to 8 p.m.
route to Bruges. But that is a different story. As you can see, there is
Tower: July 1 to August 31 from 2:30 to 5:30 p.m.
more to Lissewege than meets the eye.
Price > adults: €1 | children under 12: €0.50 www.lissewege.be
THE PROCESSION, EXPERIENCE THE LEGEND An annual 'Ommegang' (Procession) has departed from Lissewege on the first Sunday in May since the Middle Ages. The miracle statue of Our Lady of Lissewege is carried in a baroque sedan chair. A praying crowd carries the miraculous Virgin Mary statue from the church to the Ter Doest chapel. Then a short service takes place. After the ceremony the statue is carried back to the church. www.lissewege.be
30 – Lissewege
21
TIP Admire the saints NOTE THIS DOWN IN YOUR DIARY! August 21 and 22 > Lichtfeest (Festival of Light)
The visitor's centre has a soft spot for saints. The presbytery is home to the recently redecorated Saints Museum, which has a unique collection of statues of patron saints. In fact, there are more than 120 statues in total! There is not a lack of devotion here!
Lissewege will be even more mysterious on August 21
Open > Easter holidays, Whitsun weekend and Ascension
and 22! As soon as evening falls you'll be able to enjoy
weekend, period from June 15 to September 15 and the two
an atmospheric evening in the centre of the village. All
last weekends of September: daily from 2 p.m. to 5:30 p.m.
kinds of artists will provide an extra poetic touch with
Price > adults: €2 | museum visit + coffee/tea: €3.50 | children
atmospheric music and intimate light installations.
under 12: €1
www.bruggeplus.be
www.lissewege.be
TIP Release the pilgrim in you In hospitable Lissewege they have known since time immemorial how to feed the hungry and quench the thirsty. The white village offers extensive culinary offerings for every budget, from nice bistros such as the cosy Huyze Saeftinghe to high-quality restaurants such as De Valckenaere, De Goedendag, De Pepermolen and Hof Ter Doest. If you are thirsty Café Den Ouden Toren and the Sint-Jacobshuis are two authentic pubs where you can hang around for hours. If you are a pilgrim passing through then you should stop at Maelstaf bakery. Brace yourself for a cue because this nostalgic bakery smells and tastes like days long past and only opens on Saturdays. You should also enter ‘De Soete Paepe’, a 1920s candy store with more than 60 kinds of old-fashioned sweets and home-made cake. Ideal for satisfying your need for a snack. Take a look at p. 41 for a list of restaurants in Lissewege!
Lissewege – 31
Lissewege artists’ village Art lovers are catered to artistically in Lissewege. Though it’s a small village, it boasts a host of galleries and artistic places of relaxation. And of course, there is also the famous open-air exhibition ‘Beelden
TIP Wine and dine with art Whether you order a perfectly made cup of coffee, a deserved
in het Witte Dorp’ (Statues in the White Village). Gratien Dendooven,
glass of wine or a savoury snack,
the man behind this artistic project, explains the success. ‘When you
in Lissewege you enjoy more
do something, you have to put your heart and soul into it. You have to
places they also serve you a touch
intensely. That’s because in many of art. At Arte Latte you can order
do it with passion.’
homemade ice-tea, herbal tea or special coffee whilst admiring the
To claim that Gratien and Lissewege
you only saw the postman, if he showed
many works of art; in the wine shop
are inextricably linked is an
up at all.’ At age fourteen, Gratien
of Ô d’Chatô the wines taste better
understatement. The art fanatic was
took up painting and when he later
thanks to the ingenious setting;
born in Ter Doest, where he still lives,
opened the tearoom De Valckenaere
and at the jazzy Ulysses drinking
and had an idyllic childhood there.
with his wife Angèle, he installed a
an aperitif has been elevated to the
‘Long before the restaurant opened,
gallery on the first floor displaying
status of art. For a chat and a bite
this was a farm and sometimes tourists
work by, among others, Rik Slabbinck
to eat there is also Den Artist near
would come by and have a look at the
and other contemporaries. One day
the market square; exhibitions are
barn. I spoke a little French and I would
Gratien had a great idea. ‘I immediately
organised in the adjacent rooms on
enthusiastically show them around.
called my good friend Eli Balduck and
a regular basis.
They rewarded me with some small
said, ‘Eli, we should do a statue route.’
change or compliments. That was a
Eli backed the project from the start;
www.artelatte.be, www.odchato.be,
wonderful time, but the winters were
we spoke with our artist friends and
www.ulysses-apero.be
harsh and lonely. There were days when
a few weeks later we had 19 artists
32 – Lissewege
willing to participate.’ The first few years were a bit difficult, but 20 years on the Beeldenroute (Statue Route) has become an established name. ‘The artists come from everywhere. They include both big names and lesser known artists, but all exhibit very good modern work here. I take a look at each work of art in advance; there are times when the artists e-mail me
NOTE THIS DOWN IN YOUR DIARY! July 10 – September 27 > Beelden in het Witte Dorp (Statues in the White Village)
pictures; other times I pay a visit to their studio.’ Once the list
All summer long, art reigns supreme in Lissewege.
has been compiled, that’s when the real work begins – putting
During this period the most picturesque spots are
the pieces together. ‘That’s my specialty. I know instantly which
ingeniously taken over again by more than 100 national and
work should be put where to ensure that it comes out well.
international visual artists. The free open-air exhibition
And each work of art is engraved in my memory. I can tell you
‘Beelden in het Witte Dorp’ (Statues in the While Village)
exactly what stood where ten years ago.’ Gratien does not have
is a unique way to discover the white polder village and
time to ponder the success. But he does enjoy it. ‘It is very
shows you a side of Lissewege you’ve ever seen before!
satisfying to see all those people flocking to the event every year. All those people become acquainted with a very varied
www.beeldenroute.be
selection of modern art. And while they’re at it, they also get to know Lissewege, for it is precisely the contrast between those modern works of art and this medieval setting that makes this
August 2 > MAfestival Lissewege
open-air expo so special. Every year, I am nervous when we place statues in the market square. This square belongs to the
Lissewege breathes Old Music! Indeed, MAfestival Brugge
residents of Lissewege. So you want them to be really happy
makes yet another musical excursion to Lissewege. The
with what is put on display. If that goal is achieved, then my
concert day is completely devoted to the Danse Macabre.
edition has been successful.’
Three ensembles introduce you to this theme in a surprising manner. An appropriate dinner in a picturesque village is also organised in between. The day is finished with a concert at the church brought by a renaissance orchestra fully dressed up to pay tribute to the Muse of Dance. www.MAfestival.be
10
TIP Promote your artistic sense Over the years, several galleries have been established in Lissewege. At Artepol, which can be found in the magnificently renovated station building, you will discover work by contemporary visual artists. Gallery Fotoon, for its part, displays works by a wide variety of various artists and at art centre ’t Vaartje you can admire arts by and for visually impaired people. Art house Den Engel, which is housed in a late-18th-century building located right in the market square, is also worth paying a visit. www.artepol.be, www.fotografiefotoon.com, www.tvaartje.be, www.lissewege.be
Finding tranquillity in Ter Doest Just like the church in Lissewege dominates the village, Ter Doest abbey holds dominion over the polders that surround Lissewege. It has been doing so for centuries‌
THE MANUSCRIPTS OF TER DOEST
Monks at work Ter Doest Abbey was founded in 1106
the days were a bit shorter in winter but
by the French Benedictines of Saint-
the winter evenings were long, cold and
Riquier in Ponthieu. About 70 years
dark. There was only one heated room
later Cistercians took over the abbey
in the abbey and to brave the cold they
and built a refectory, a chapter hall, a
often slept in their habits. The sexton
few dormitories, a scriptorium, a library
kept track of time and woke his
and a church. The monks evidently
colleagues every morning. Between all
flourished because the church at Ter
those prayer meetings they had to work.
Doest equalled the current village
The monks did religious work: reading,
church that dominates Lissewege
copying books and studying. The lay
both in volume and in size. It is an
brothers did manual work: grinding
understatement to say that monastic
grain in the mill so bread could be made
life was tough. Almost the entire day
and they ran the forge. Crops were
and half the night was dominated by
cultivated and dikes and roads were
God. The monks came together to pray
constructed. The crops from more than
seven times a day; their day began at
4000 hectares of fields were stored in
sunrise and ended at sunset. Therefore,
the impressive abbey barn that was built
Books occupied a central place in the life of the Cistercians of Ter Doest. Indeed, books were essential to living a life of prayer and meditation. Ever since the abbey was founded, the treasure trove of books were kept in a library. Today, the archives of the Grootseminarie (Major Seminary) and the Bruges City Library still hold more than 150 manuscripts of the former abbey of Ter Doest. All of them are 13thand 14th-century manuscripts, often decorated with magnificent miniatures. The monks wrote the books in the abbey’s scriptorium using an obliquely cut goose quill and various types of ink.
Lissewege – 35
between 1370 and 1385. The abbey also
used to make bricks. The bricks were
get an impression of its grandeur and
engaged in the wool trade. It used the
used to expand the abbey and to build
historic significance. Europa Nostra
13th-century waterway as a trade route
the church in Lissewege. The monks
awarded a bronze plaque of honour for
to Bruges, and they played an important
were very industrious!
the top quality restoration. The adjacent
role in the drainage of this vast area of
abbey farmstead dates from the 17th
mud flats and salt marshes. They diked
Today we can only admire the
century. It currently houses the famous
in the previously worthless area and
impressive abbey barn (56 metres long,
restaurant Hof Ter Doest with hotel and
turned it into polder. They also extracted
21 metres wide and 16.5 metres high)
inn that serves Ter Doest beer!
peat and clay from the neighbouring
in all its glory. It was restored in early
Monnikenmoere (monks' marsh). This
2000; from its oak pillar to its roof
low-lying marsh was created when the
tiles from Boom. You have to see this
Cistercians extracted clay, which they
gigantic colossus with your own eyes to
TIP Walking through the Ter Doest polders The 6.3 km long Ter Doest walk highlights the flat polder landscape around Lissewege. Departing from the church, you first walk through the picturesque town centre then calm, traffic-free roads lead you to the Boudewijn canal and Ter Doest Abbey. Rural roads and beautiful views are the main ingredients of the walk back. You can purchase the map at VVV Lissewege (presbytery) and Toerisme Brugge (Sea dyke) or you can order it via www.fietsen-wandelen.be.
NOTE THIS DOWN IN YOUR DIARY! July 18 and August 8 > Ter Doest summer walk
18
In 2015, you can still wander around Monnikenmoere as well! Indeed, the meadow bird reserve exceptionally opens for 2 days in the summer. A number of interventions in the polder landscape created specific conditions enabling saline plants to develop in the salty substrate. It is therefore a unique opportunity to become acquainted with the various plant and bird species in the presence of a nature guide. Don’t forget to bring your boots and binoculars! www.natuurpunt.be
TIP Take a look at a 'moef' In the visitor's centre, which is housed in a beautiful presbytery close to Our Lady of the Visitation Church, you will find everything you might want to know about Ter Doest and the history of Lissewege. This is the place to be if you are looking for regional information, cycling and walking routes. The permanent exhibition ‘A Gothic vision in the polders’ will get you started. The oldest items, including a real ‘moef’ (a large, hand-formed brick), date back to 1275! Open > Easter holidays, Whitsun weekend and Ascension weekend, period from June 15 to September 15 and the two last weekends of September: daily from 2 p.m. to 5:30 p.m. www.lissewege.be
THE STORY OF WILLEM VAN SAEFTINGHE Willem Van Saeftinghe led a busy but peaceful life as a lay brother in Ter Doest Abbey until the Battle of the Spurs in 1302. He promptly left Lissewege, travelled to Courtrai and dragged Robert van Artois, leader of the French army, from his horse to make him a bit more humble. Then he eliminated 40 French knights. Stalwart Willem became one of the heroes of Groeningheveld. You can admire him on Lissewege market; he is equipped with his morning star and battle sword.
Lissewege – 37
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Accommodations and food Lodgings zzHotel Monaco ***
KEY
zzAddresses in Zeebrugge zzAddresses in Lissewege
Food zzB&B SpaniĂŤnhof ****
BEACH AREA
zzPub MariTimes
Baron de Maerelaan 26, Zeebrugge
Walram Romboudtstraat 6, Lissewege
T + 32 50 54 44 37 | F + 32 50 54 44 85
T + 32 50 70 00 00 | F + 32 50 67 04 60
Zeedijk 6A, Zeebrugge
hotelmonacozeebrugge@skynet.be
info@spanienhof.be
M + 32 472 60 05 69
www.hotelmonaco.be
www.spanienhof.be
maritimes@telenet.be
zzHotel Atlas ***
zzHostellerie Hof Ter Doest ***
zzRestaurant Sea and Sand
Brusselstraat 13-15, Zeebrugge
Ter Doeststraat 4, Lissewege
Zeedijk 8, Zeebrugge
T + 32 50 54 54 19
T & F + 32 50 54 40 82
T + 32 50 54 42 79
hotelatlas@skynet.be
info@terdoest.be | www.terdoest.be
www.hotelatlas.be
zzIBIS Styles Zeebrugge ***
zzB&B Lisdodde ***
zzEethuys Ambrosius Zeedijk 11, Zeebrugge
Oude Pastoriestraat 1, Lissewege
T + 32 50 54 59 48
Kustlaan 99, Zeebrugge
M + 32 476 97 51 40
info@eethuys-ambrosius.be
T + 32 50 20 12 02 | F + 32 50 27 07 02
info@lisdodde.be | www.lisdodde.be
www.eethuys-ambrosius.be
H8091@accor.com www.ibisstyles.com
zzB&B Pronkenburg **** Ter Doeststraat 30, Lissewege
zzHostellerie De Goedendag *
zzBar - Restaurant The Old Barrel
T + 32 50 54 53 35
Zeedijk 12, Zeebrugge
info@degoedendag.be
T + 32 50 70 36 83
www.degoedendag.be
info@oldbarrel.be | www.oldbarrel.be
T & F + 32 50 54 45 40 M + 32 478 31 76 12
zzBar - Restaurant ’t Zandlopertje
info@pronkenburg.be
Zeedijk 13, Zeebrugge
www.pronkenburg.be
T + 32 50 54 41 05 M + 32 479 39 20 05 hildesnauwaert@hotmail.com
zzBar - Restaurant Lagaar Baron de Maerelaan 4, Zeebrugge T + 32 50 55 26 89 M + 32 475 20 10 79 info@lagaar.com | www.lagaar.com
zzRestaurant Jin Yan Lou (Chinese) Baron de Maerelaan 58, Zeebrugge T&F + 32 50 54 67 07
ZEEBRUGGE VILLAGE
zzMartins fish restaurant
zzBrasserie The Boat House
LISSEWEGE
zzBar - Bistro Ulysses
Sint-Donaaskerkstraat 19, Zeebrugge
Vismijnstraat 26, Zeebrugge
Stationsstraat 25, Lissewege
T + 32 50 54 43 27
T + 32 50 55 23 15
T + 32 50 61 27 67
martinsvisrestaurant@telenet.be www.martinsvisrestaurant.be
M + 32 476 31 27 76
zzTearoom - Bistro ’t Suckerbuckstje Vismijnstraat 44, Zeebrugge
info@ulysses-apero.be www.ulysses-apero.be
T + 32 50 25 02 99
OLD FISH MARKET AREA
zzRestaurant De Kombuis
Tijdokstraat 4, Zeebrugge
M + 32 486 67 47 70
zzRestaurant De Valckenaere Lisseweegs Vaartje 1, Lissewege
zzRestaurant Grand Café Kaai 49
T + 32 50 54 57 59
T + 32 50 67 83 25
Rederskaai 49-50, Zeebrugge
devalckenaere@telenet.be
info@dekombuis.be
T + 32 50 70 39 19
www.restaurantdevalckenaere.be
www.dekombuis.be
M + 32 496 34 31 05 grandcafe.kaai49@gmail.com
zzFish restaurant The Blue Lobster
www.kaai49.be
Tijdokstraat 9, Zeebrugge T + 32 50 68 45 71
zzRestaurant De Goedendag Lisseweegs Vaartje 2, Lissewege T + 32 50 54 53 35
zzGrill De Kade
www.thebluelobster.be
Rederskaai 39, Zeebrugge
info@degoedendag.be www.degoedendag.be
T + 32 50 69 43 68
zzBistro - Fondue restaurant De Steiger
M + 32 478 75 48 84
Werfkaai 11, Zeebrugge M + 32 475 85 01 13
Walram Romboudtstraat 2, Lissewege
zzBistro Wittekerke
www.bistrodesteiger.be
zzRestaurant Tijdok Tijdokstraat 16, Zeebrugge
zzRestaurant De Pepermolen T + 32 50 55 05 03
Rederskaai 38, Zeebrugge
info@restaurantdepepermolen.be
T + 32 50 78 89 84
www.restaurantdepepermolen.be
zzBar - Bistro The Old Steamer
zzBistro Huyze Saeftinghe
M + 32 476 59 65 20
Rederskaai 19, Zeebrugge
Onder de Toren 5, Lissewege
info@tijdok.be | www.tijdok.be
T + 32 50 54 58 25
T + 32 50 82 04 90
info@oldsteamer.be
info@huyzesaeftinghe.be
zzRestaurant Slabbinck
www.oldsteamer.be
Tijdokstraat 36, Zeebrugge T + 32 50 54 52 46
zzFish restaurant ’t Pakhuis
zzRestaurant Hof Ter Doest Ter Doeststraat 4, Lissewege
anne.raes2@pandora.be
Rederskaai 7, Zeebrugge
T + 32 50 54 40 82
www.restaurantslabbinck.be
T + 32 50 67 49 91
info@terdoest.be | www.terdoest.be
pattendr@mac.com | www.tpakhuis.eu
zzBrasserie Nelson Vismijnstraat 24, Zeebrugge
zzRestaurant - Clubhuis Alberta
T + 32 50 54 59 54
Omookaai 1, Zeebrugge
bogaert.isabelle@telenet.be
T + 32 50 54 41 97
www.brasserienelson.be
www.rbsc.be Accommodations and food – 41
Tourist offices Toerisme Brugge (Sea dyke) Zeedijk, Badengebouw Easter holidays, Whitsun weekend, July and August: 10 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. and 2 to 6 p.m. VVV Lissewege (presbytery) Oude Pastoriestraat 5 Easter holidays, Whitsun weekend and Ascension weekend, period from June 15 to September 15, 2 last weekends of September: from 2 to 5:30 p.m.
More info Toerisme Brugge Postbus 744, B-8000 Brugge T + 32 50 44 46 46 F + 32 50 44 46 45 toerisme@brugge.be www.brugge.be/zeebrugge
THIS MAGAZINE IS A TOURISM BRUGES PUBLICATION CONCEPT AND DESIGN: Magenta nv PRINTED BY: Magenta nv PHOTOGRAPHY: Jan Darthet, Daniël de Kievith, Joris Luyten, Westtoer, Rudy Desmedt, Misjel Decleer, Cel fotografie Stad Brugge, Piet Vandenkerkhove, Stadsarchief Brugge / www.beeldbankbrugge.be (verz. J. A. Rau, verz. Bruselle-Traen), Daniël Devoldere and Jan D’Hondt COPYWRITING: Sophie Allegaert EDITOR: Ans Vanhoute PUBLISHER: Dieter Dewulf, Postbus 744, B-8000 Brugge TRANSLATION: Babel Ophoff Vertalingen SPECIAL THANKS TO: Sophie Allegaert, Lieven Verstraete, Pieter Aspe, VZW Brugge Plus, VVV Lissewege, Stadsarchief Brugge, Maarten du Bois, Gratien Dendooven and Marec. • March 2015 • Toerisme Brugge is not responsible for any inaccuracies or price changes.