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Designer Guy passes on lessons he’s learned By Nicola Hyde ONE of the co-founders behind urban men’s brand Jeffery-West gave a talk to students at De Montfort University this month. Guy West – who founded JefferyWest shoes with childhood friend Mark Jeffery in 1987 – went to Leicester to talk about footwear design and the lessons he has learned in almost 25 years as a men’s shoe designer. The duo began the business when they were just 16 and began by buying rejects and samples from Jeffery’s father’s shoe factory, customising them, and selling them
on at markets in Northamptonshire and London. But in 1987 – when Jeffery’s father died and the factory was lost – the friends decided to launch their own label. Guy said: “My biggest achievement is going into retail and having my own store. My advice to students studying footwear design is to go out and get experience once your degree is completed. “It is essential that once you have gained key skills from being at university, that you then go and utilise these and get some solid work experience. The path I took some years ago would be difficult now. You need a good track record
and to have gained invaluable experience before you can start your own collection. “I’m very focused on what I do. Having my own business, like any business, can get hectic, but being focused and working hard is why I have achieved what I have.” Head of Footwear Design, Kevin Guildford, added: “It was a pleasure to have such an iconic footwear designer visit us and give such enlightening talk to our students. Guy’s career story was both informative and enlightening and will inspire students who aspire to create their own brand or business.”
TV dragon carries on supporting
News
A FLEDGLING shoe company which secured support from a TV dragon is celebrating a successful year after a rapid expansion. WedgeWelly – which was thought up by a group of friends who were watching Glastonbury and decided that wellies needed to be more fashionable – now exports to ten countries and has won numerous awards and celebrity fans like Dannii Minogue, The Saturdays, Nicole Sherzinger, Alexandra Burke, Jessie J, and new X Factor judge Tulisa.
Drop a size with the right shoes Page 4
Austerity leads to lower heels Page 6
Police appeal over distinctive shoe Page 7 December 2011/January 2012
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The company – which designs wellies with a wedge heel – entered Dragon’s Den and won £65,000 funding from Theo Paphitis (in exchange for a 25 per cent stake in the company).
Sarah Longthorn said: “People are always interested to know how involved Theo is in our business. “We can honestly say his involvement and that of his team has exceeded all expectations. “Theo’s not only financed our growth, but his mentorship has enabled us to develop quickly. “We feel very privileged to have him on board. The Dragons’ Den experience has had a significant impact on the success of our business.” WedgeWelly has now teamed up with the UK retailer John Lewis to launch an exclusive collection, the WedgeWelly Misfitz range.
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Drop a dress size with the right shoes HIGH Street giant Debenhams claims it has a formula to make women drop a dress size in seconds – just by choosing the right type of shoe. It says the slimming effect is so apparent that – when asked to guess the dress size of the same woman in two images – people shown the image of her wearing the slimming shoes gave an average of one dress size smaller than those shown a picture of her without the magic shoes on. Debenhams technologists created the formula when they noticed an onslaught of celebrity women, including Kate Middleton, Victoria Beckham and most recently Ed Miliband's wife Justine wearing similar nude high heels. The formula for the perfect pair of slimming shoes is as follows: (colour + platform + height + heel width) – ankle strap = slimming, or as it is written in short-hand: (C + P + H + HW) – AS = S. A spokesman said: “For those wanting to look slimmer in their
dresses, they must first choose a nude-coloured shoe which matches their skin tone. “This works as an extension of the leg. Platforms should be concealed and should have at least a centimetre in depth to ensure maximum lengthening. “Heel height is critical and it is advised that women choose threeinch or higher heels. This provides added height and instantly gives a slimming effect. Heel width should also be considered. “Thick heels draw the eye and break the illusion, so stiletto heels are recommended. “The final aspect of the formula is ankle straps. According to the formula, ankle straps should be avoided at all costs as they cut the leg short, making them look shorter and wider.” High profilers who currently benefit from this sneaky cheat are A-listers such as Beyonce Knowles, Victoria Beckham, Alesha Dixon, Jessie J and Sarah Jessica Parker.
Beyonce Knowles. Credit Helga Esteb / Shutterstock.com
Harry Potter author’s boots auctioned off HARRY Potter author JK Rowling’s boots that she wore while writing The Philosopher’s Stone have been auctioned off. The boots – which were given to a primary school in 1999 – were part of a school project which asked about the ‘life’ of a famous pair of shoes when JK Rowling not only filled in the questionnaire she was sent by a student, but also
sent the boots with it as well. According to the questionnaire: “My owner was wearing me when she wrote several chapters of ‘Harry Potter and the Philosopher's Stone’, and I liked that because it gave me a rest. She also wore me when she was a teacher, and one boy made fun of me, which I didn't appreciate.”
Stalwarts register for Munich ISPO Munich is gathering pace after it had record numbers for its sporting goods show. Industry stalwarts like Ecco and Sigg have registered for the first time for next year’s event. A spokesman said: “This is an impressive validation of the trade show’s internationally significant position for the important Outdoor industry. However, other communities are also experiencing new additions, among them Li Ning, X Bionic X-Technology and Nixon.” ISPO Munich is from January 29 to February 1.
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Austerity leads to lower heels EXPERTS using computer analysis to predict a change in trends say women’s heel heights are going to get lower. The study, by IBM, considered billions of social media posts predicts that women’s heels – which are currently very high – are expected to reduce in future collections. Dr Trevor Davis, consumer products expert with IBM Global Business Services, said: “Usually, in an economic downturn, heels go up and stay up – as consumers turn to more flamboyant fashions as a means of fantasy and escape. “This time, something different is happening – perhaps a mood of long term austerity is evolving among consumers sparking a desire to reduce ostentation in everyday settings.” Heel heights over the last 100 years have varied depending on social and economic positioning, according to the research. Platforms were revived during the 1970s, reversing the preference for low-heeled sandals in the late 1960s and the low, thick heels of the 1990s gave way to ‘Sex and
the City’-inspired stilettos following the dot-com bust at the turn of the century. Dr Trevor Davis says an analysis of the last four years of social media posts and blog platforms showed that discussions of increasing heel height peaked towards the end of
2009, and declined after that.
Louboutin.
Key trend-watching bloggers between 2008 and 2009 wrote consistently about heels from five to eight inches, but by mid 2011 they were writing about the return of the kitten heel and the perfect flat from Jimmy Choo and
IBM used special analytics software to search billions of social media posts to identify individuals discussing shoes. It then filtered through thousands of posts to find ones specifically related to heel height.
Fashion bloggers team up with SIX FOOTWEAR brand SIX London has teamed up with six influential fashion bloggers to create a limited edition footwear range. The partnership – which was brokered through website farfetch.com – will see the collection launched at Paris Fashion Week. Paul Brine, spokesperson for farfetch.com, said: “Fashion bloggers are usually looking to find the latest thing in designer clothing, but this project gave them the unique opportunity to create the next big thing themselves.”
The six fashion bloggers who took part in the project were; Steve Salter of Style Salvage; Yvan Rodic of Face Hunter; Susie Lau of Style Bubble; Alix Bancourt of The Cherry Blossom Girl; Caroline Blomst of Carolines Mode; and Leandra Medine of The Man Repeller. Each blogger was tasked to design their dream shoe with the help of SIX London and expert shoemakers in Portugal. Paul added: “These fashion bloggers had a unique insight into the fashion world that has resulted in some breathtaking shoe designs.”
Customers star in ads COMFORT brand Hotter Shoes has launched a new TV advert that features actual customers of the brand. The company interviewed a panel of customers to find out what they liked about the brand – and four of them were chosen to take part in the filming. Customers Marianne Welsh, Joan Shawcross and Jenni Rhodes own 46 pairs between them and say they have worn the shoes for over 26 years.
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One in every three pairs of shoes that are currently made in the UK are now made in Hotter’s Lancashire factory, with ‘comfort concept’ features such as lightweight, flexible soles, wiggle room for toes and soft underfoot cushioning hidden in every pair. Hotter’s TV advert features a selection of footwear, including women's boots for the winter season, casual shoes for catching up with friends, smart heels for work and sporty shoes for exercising.
Former X-Factor judge Cheryl Cole will launch her first capsule shoe collection this month. She has teamed up with Stylistpick.com for the range which is part of a wider collaboration between the fashion service website. The Girls Aloud singer will also be choosing her favourite fashion pieces from the online retailer's collection as well as sharing style tips with users.
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Ringo Starr
Ringo teams up with Timberland BEATLES icon Ringo Starr has teamed up with footwear brand Timberland for a limited edition range that will raise money for charity. A limited edition range of Earthkeepers footwear will be auctioned off for the Canvas That Cares programme – and Ringo has lent his original peace sign artwork to the boot collection. Proceeds from the auction, which kicked off December 1 on eBay, will benefit WaterAid, a non-profit dedicated to improving access to safe water, sanitation and hygiene in the world's poorest communities. Mike Harrison, Timberland’s brand officer said: “We're thrilled about
the Canvas That Cares programme, and could not think of a better partner for our launch than Ringo Starr.” “For nearly 40 years, Timberland has followed a mantra of ‘doing well and doing good’. Beyond his undisputed influence on music history, Ringo, too, has long been known for his commitment to social justice. We have a great opportunity to join forces and raise muchneeded funds for a highly deserving organisation.” Ringo’s original design will appear on 75 pairs of the boots, each of which he signed personally – it is the first time in more than three years that he has autographed any memorabilia.
Murder police appeal over distinctive shoe FOOTWEAR industry stalwarts have been drafted in by police who are searching for a murder suspect who was wearing a distinctive shoe. Northamptonshire Police contacted the Society of Shoe-Fitters who immediately contacted their members after a distinctive tread pattern was found at a murder scene. Spokesman Laura West said: “We are lucky to have some of the best and most knowledgeable people in the industry as members. It would be great to help solve this and if the footwear industry can't pull out all the stops to help, it's a poor show.” Rob Faricy, the detective in charge News
of the investigation, said in his email request for help that the murder took place in April in Northampton. He added: “We are experiencing significant difficulties in identifying a footwear mark recovered from the scene, despite employing the services of experts from the Forensic Science Service, Key Forensics, Napier Associates, SATRA Technologies and various industry contacts through the BFA.” The investigation is looking into the murder of an entire family – including two children. A number of footwear marks were found at the scene and officers believe it is a vital clue. December 2011/January 2012
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The fifth annual Footwear Friends awards have been held last month at the Musical Museum, Out On A Limb reports.
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Pictures courtesy of Ray Morris-Hill
Rising stars honoured at awards evening such will develop into major players in the footwear industry.
CHARITY Footwear Friends is in its 175th year and it was decided that, this year, the celebration should be all about young entrepreneurs.
in Kew and saw almost 200 industry stalwarts gather together to raise funds for the charity and celebrate the industry.
Entries were invited and young industry designers were invited to submit their work into the awards ceremony – and go through a Dragon’s Den-style experience with the judges to convince them they had the drive to succeed in the industry.
Spokesman Richard Kottler said: “Again this year we have seen an increase in applicants, and were impressed by the quality of the work that is being done.
“We have had extraordinarily good quality entries from young designers and entrepreneurs – sadly there is only room for three winners of the awards, but there is no doubting the quality of our homegrown talent.”
“It is always difficult to choose between so much talent but we feel that the winners were those who not only had exciting product but business acumen as well, and as
At the event Katie Greenyer, creative director at Pentland was the keynote speaker and Savina Barnes of Stylistpick won the ‘Year’s Worth of Shoes’ Raffle’, donated by Dune.
The awards evening was held in November at the Musical Museum
The winners were: The Footwear Friends Designer Award
Rose Choules, was presented with a £5,000 bursary aimed at furthering her business and expertise, She was given a 12-month mentoring programme from industry experts and was presented her award by Robert Lusk, one of the judges and owner of the Boot Tree.
Features
The Meltzer Travel Award
UK move for Kim
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Brand spotlight JJ Shoes
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This year’s award went Victoria Spruce, and was presented by Philip Meltzer She won £750 to assist her in attending key trade shows. This award was made in memory of Joe Meltzer and includes a mentoring programme. The FN/Platform Award
Exhibition for French designer
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The 2011 Award went to Cocorose London. The FN/Platform Award winner is given the opportunity to show their emerging brand on a sponsored stand at the USA’s premier footwear show – Magic in Las Vegas. This was presented by Nicholas Parry Billings of the British Footwear Association.
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Retailers have always faced one challenge or another when making the business work - but one they never saw coming, they claim, was that they would one day be in competition with their suppliers. Nicola Hyde reports for Out On A Limb.
Retailer fearful over internet sales threat BLOOMFIELDS in Surrey has been selling shoes since 1847 – it’s an established, family-run business off the main High Street that has always made a name for itself by its strong brands and customer loyalty.
internet for cheaper.
But manager Trevor Seymour speaks frankly about its future and says, if things don’t change, they will be forced to close within a year.
“Our sales are down 75 per cent and we are having to try to think of ways to make up for that, It’s a lot of trade to lose.”
He claims his major competitiors are no longer just other shoe shops – but actually the manufacturers who has supplied his shop for decades who are starting to sell their own products online, offering special offer deals that aren’t available to retailers. One brand in particular used to be a Bloomfields best-seller, with 30 to 40 pairs a week flying off the shelves. Now, only about seven or eight pairs a week go. Trevor said: “We have a good number of people who come in to the shop – they try boots on, check the size and copy the product number. They will come back later – but they never come back because they are straight on to the manufacturer’s website to see if they can get it on the
“Some sites are offering a cheaper price, cheap postage and returns which is just something we cannot compete with.
Trevor says he is frustrated because some brands – while he acknowledges have always given retailers lots of good advice and support - have now moved the goal posts. He added: “Small retailers are now in direct competition with our manufacturers and this is the future of trading. They’ve gone from giving you great support, to this. “We just don’t know which way to go - manufacturers are opening up their own shops and becoming retailers. It’s like they have stabbed us in the back. I have spoken to other retailers who feel the same – what if we all stopped stocking these brands? What if we hadn’t supported them over the years? They would be bankrupt that’s what.”
UK move for Kim ... REALITY TV star Kim Kardashian has brought her LA-based shoe business to the UK market. ShoeDazzle.co.uk has launched which offers shoe, handbag and jewellery styles selected by a team of top stylists. ShoeDazzle – tipped as the world’s premier online styling service – already has over three million members in America and over a million fans on Facebook. The team of stylists select products from their fashion lines to suit customers individual style – and every product is the same price, £39.95. Users are encouraged to make their own style profile so bags and shoes can be recommended to them on a monthly basis. Features
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Out on a Limb cover story
Editor’s comment
Nicola Hyde Editor
Internet presents a challenge to industry RECESSION is biting – the words we hear every day in terms of how it affects the footwear industry, with everything from sale dates to forward ordering being affected. But there’s a challenge hovering on the horizon that – while it isn’t new – is forever changing. Many of our readers have had shops for years, bringing a wealth of retail experience and expertise to their business ... but it is perhaps those same people that are finding it a challenge to embrace the so-called ‘new media’. Shoe shops are being increasingly bombarded with tips on how to make the best use of the internet: have a selling website that supports your shop; have a Facebook page to increase brand loyalty and publicise events; use Twitter and YouTube to gather a younger clientele. And now, a new expectation from customers – m-commerce, the ability to buy goods using your mobile phone.
Front aims to stay ahead of its rivals with new range FEATURED cover style is from the new range for 2012. Front shoes continue to add crisp clean semi formal styles to there already strong classic formal collection. As a brand that has built on its attitude to offer good service to its customers in providing a good in stock range that enables the customer to buy on a regular basis all through the year. Front classic formal styles are well received by the buying public and have built up a good reputation for offering the wearer a very comfortable shoe along with the style that the modern man requires. The range for 2012 continues the commitment to provide a strong formal range which has been enhanced with key casual styles that
will appeal to all. The complete range will be showcased at the up comming Moda show 19-21 February. Stand T5 Hall 20. Front is a customer focussed shoe brand that continues to provide the
service of supplying good quality men’s shoes to the independent retailer. For further details, contact James Challis, sales manager on 077 9512 6471; 020 8773 7851 or email info@frontshoes.com
eBay are trialling it in London in an actual store – and you can only buy an item if you pay through paypal on your mobile phone. Smart retailers will be looking at mcommerce and the way they can utilise it – and experts have already advised things like QR (quick reference) codes that can be scanned on a smart phone and link directly to your website should be printed on your business cards and even carrier bags. What do you think of the changing face of retail? We’d love to hear from you. Email nh@scriptmedia.co.uk
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Since the early 1980's there has been an on-going debate about the need for JJ Footwear to start specialising in multiple width fittings, rather than rely on foot size alone. A decade ago that discussion became reality and created the momentum which now sees our company, JJ Footwear, recognised for its expertise in export markets around the world. JJ Footwear is now sold by more than 1500 retailers in almost 20 countries. We believe we owe this success to our vision and belief in the width fitting concep. Whilst the width fitting concept is relatively new, JJ Footwear has decades of experience and expertise as well as a team of committed employees who strive to put the needs of our customers first. That experience has been handed down by three generations of shoe makers. The grandfathers of two of today’s board members had shoe factories which were renowned for quality and fit. Hardly surprising then that almost 100 years later the company still holds dear its original values of quality, comfort and fit. In fact that is precisely what JJ Footwear is all about. Before designing our first pair of boots we went back to basics and began looking at what women really wanted and we soon developed our mission: to accept that women love footwear, but understand that beauty does not come in a one size fits all package. For this reason, we have designed a unique range of footwear in multiple width fittings, which will make any women who is wearing any one of
Visit us at GDS, Hall 6, stand A15 Moda, Hall 19, stand S28
our creations feel confident of a perfect fit in gorgeous footwear. In order to achieve this we undertook a really detailed study that looked at the ankle,feet and calf measurements of a large group of women. This gave us the raw data we needed to begin designing our collections, It has taken almost a decade to perfect our science and we are now able to take the process a stage further by 'confectionising" our boot designs in the way we take the footwidth and link it to the width of the calf. Meaning that we are able to offer the consumer the perfect fitting boot. We don't intend to stop there. Our new collection of Autumn/Winter boots includes all the classic JJ Footwear creations, such as the Niada range that owes its enviable simplicity to the vogue for all things equestrian. In 2012, JJ Footwear will expand the collection with the addition of our new desert and wedge boot designs. The sophisticated design twists lend themselves to the smooth suede and calf skin leather. Traditional Oxford style lacing add shape to the silhouette whilst the overall design features of the heel counter maintain the signature JJ Footwear comfort and style. Of course we also take this a step even further, as all of our boots have removable insoles and are suitable to wear with orthotic aids . You'd never know of course, as the whole range, whether a size 35 or 44, G or K fit, XS or 6XW calf fitting all deliver the ultimate in style, classic elegance and modernity.
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Exhibition for French designer AN exhibition all about shoedesigner Christian Louboutin will be launched for the first time next year by the Design Museum. The French designer is credited with pushing the boundaries of shoe design and is known for his signature red sole. The exhibition looks at 20 years of Louboutin’s life – and the story behind his shoe designs. There will be a special section dedicated to the shoes designed for ‘Fetish’ an exhibition at the La Gallerie Du Passage, Paris in 2007 where he collaborated photography with David Lynch. It even features a tour of every stage of the design journey to reveal how the shoes are contructed – from initial drawing, to first prototype, to production in the factory. It starts in March.
Picture credit: Photographer Phillippe Garcia from Christian Louboutin book published by Rizzoli
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product showcase product showcase product showcase
Chatham add colours and styles to range CHATHAM Marine has introduced new styles and new colours for its top sellers. Brand new is the slip-on Fowler deck shoe from the Chatham Life range, plus two new deck shoes in the casual Sport collection – Goodison and Bowker. For women, Chatham introduces the Kat G2. Combining a high quality technical mesh with nubuck, Chatham offers a more feminine take on the traditional deck shoe. This ladies style features a new sole unit with water channels for exceptional stability on deck; a fully removable moulded foot bed sock for exceptional comfort; and Chatham’s unique two year guarantee.
Running shoe beats industry giants to scoop national award By Nicky Hyde
Blogger’s range to aid charities
Product showcase
RAZOR sharp blogger Perez Hilton has designed two pairs of shoes for online retailer ShoeDazzle - and all profits will go to gay and lesbian charities. His designs are “Sparkle” - a black faux suede heel with silver stud detailing on the heel, platform and dual ankle straps and “Shine” - a metallic silver sneaker.
New range boasts unique concept
A NEW running shoe developed by Tecnica has won an award at the Outdoor Trade Show. The Diablo Max scooped the ‘Best Footwear Product of the Year’ award at the 2011 Novel Awards after being up against industry giants Timberland and Wolverine. The shoe uses the TRS (Tecnica Rolling System) which gives stability on all types of terrain. Spokesman Duncan Holme said:
“Obviously we are thrilled that the Diablo won this prestigious footwear award and Tecnica is now recognised for its innovative and ground-breaking designs. “There was a lot of very positive interest at the show in the Tecnica Trekking range particularly in the design and quality of the products. “We will be building on this success using the novel award as a platform to show retailers that Tecnica can be taken seriously not only in the trail running field but also in the very competitive hiking arena.”
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School specialist adds to range
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Australian brand Ukala Sydney has taken strides into the UK market thanks to a new deal with Amazon UK. Ukala Sydney uses Merino wool and natural suede in the construction of its footwear designs. Brand manager Michael Schaefer said: “We are very pleased with the rapid momentum Ukala has gained in the footwear market." In the UK, products will also be appearing in 40 USC stores and 200 selected Footlocker stores and the brand wants to further expand into the UK next year.
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product showcase product showcase product showcase
New range of boots boast unique concept JJ Footwear has introduced a new range of Moon boots which boasts the company’s trademarked multiple width fitting concept. The collection was introduced into the Autumn Winter range late in the season and was designed in direct response to requests received from our customers. Hot new shoe designer Cleo B has launched a new range for Spring Summer which features a first ever range of accessories. The collection draws inspiration from the golden age of 1980s hip hop, inspired by rap group Run DMC. Super high summer heels, classic wedges, brazen boots and statement sandals appear in a rainbow of poptastic 80s colours and a fresh array of materials Mini gold Cleo B cassettes embellish the toes and make a must-have addition to the brand’s already popular range of shoe clips.
Taking their names from three of the most chilly cities in Europe, Moscow, Reykjavik and Helsinki, the moon boots have all of the design features required for inclement weather. The polyurethane outer means the boots are completely water resistant, whilst the fur lining maintains warmth and comfort. The company is allowing traders to order individual pairs rather than a complete range and sizes are available in two calf fittings.
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The new range of Moon boots from JJ Footwear
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Lace brand launches new junior collection SHOE lace brand Mr Lacy has launched a complete junior collection just for kids. Mr. Lacy started with a small collection of a shorter version (43 inches) of the popular ‘Flatties’ model, which was a big hit for kid’s footwear retailers and it has now launched a full collection of kid’s laces, in colours like Lipstick Pink, Mellow Blue and Neon Yellow. The collection also includes the Junior ‘Glow in the Dark’ lace.
Pod footwear has created a new back to school range with two main price brackets to make it easier for retailers. The core range consists of their signature styles which feature wipeclean scuff and stain resistant leathers uppers, breathable fabric linings and durable flex rubber soles. New features include hologram branding and panelled upper designs with sizes on selected styles now range from an EU size 27 through to 52. Pod have maintained the same price point as their previous back to school season - and have achieved a recommended retail price point £5 below the core Pod range for the new collection which has a new sole unit.
Since the launch of Mr. Lacy in 2002, the label has launched more than two hundred different lace styles and colours. It has international distribution partners in forty countries throughout Europe, Africa, Australia, Asia and America.
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Kool for Kids incorporating Kids @ Moda
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Portuguese company strengthens range SCHOOL show brand Petasil has strengthened its boys offer and added new fashion forward style to its girls range. The brand - which is stocked in many independents - is made in Portugal and has made a name for itself with its stylish designs and high grade manufacturing techniques. A spokesman said: “Remember the days when
Product showcase
the ‘big’ brands were made in Europe instead of relabelled factory collections from the Near and Far East? Well with Petasil you can relive those good old days at a price that is both reasonable and commercial and enjoy all leather product that is made the time honoured way. “Remember leather linings? All Petasil school shoes are leather lined for optimum foot comfort and health.”
Kool for Kids incorporating Kids @ Moda
UK expansion for kids’ brand A South African kids brand is growing in the UK thanks to its latest collections and designs. Toughees - the strong school shoe brand - has been developing its UK business for the last three years after being set up 50 years ago to retail leather shoes. The brand is South Africa’s best selling school shoe, selling four million pairs each year and was brought to the UK by New Brands Limited which says it has filled a gap for a more traditional shoe. A newcomer to the range is Toughees boots which will be available from February.
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accessories
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New sock allows for separation TOETOE® socks used the foot’s natural shape to bring maximum comfort. The socks allows for toe separation, which encourages independent toe movement that improves blood circulation and also improves balance and provides a sensation of better grip and safer walking. TOETOE® socks are made of the highest quality cotton that is thin enough to wear with any shoes. The addition of Elastane makes the fabric highly “stretchy” so that the number of sizes required is minimized. A number of styles have added Merino Wool to maintain warm feet, and in some acrylic is included for increased durability. A spokesman said: “The highly absorbent organic cotton used in many of the TOETOE® socks styles ensures naturally dry feet, but CoolMax is added to styles such as the sports range to ensure rapid removal of excess moisture between the toes leaving a clean and odour free environment.”
Bag range expanded A BRAND which started with just 250 bags in production that sold out within weeks has expanded its range. Calypso Rose launched her own brand Clippy in 2004 after making one bag on her kitchen table. She had the idea to display her collection of Polaroid photographs so she used a clear plastic design and made a see-though bag with pockets. A spokesman said: “Women – including Helena Bonham-Carter, Tara Palmer-Tomkinson and Jools Oliver - wanted to know where the bag came from. With a loan from her family Calypso put 250 bags into production. The bags sold within weeks and Clippy was formed.” The bag is now a best selling product in Harrods and Selfridges and ranges are stocked in department store across Japan. 20 December 2011/January 2012
Firm reports dramatic rise in sales By Nicky Hyde QUIRKY bag manufacturer The Healthy Back Bag have reported that sales are rocketing and are forecast to double in 2012. The company says sales are up 54 per cent and has just revealed its biggest ever launch of new products for Spring/Summer next year. Priscilla Chase, managing director, said: “The key to our current growth has been our success in establishing The Healthy Back Bag in a number of vibrant international retail markets, however it is not all about global expansion. “Yes, we are now in over 25 countries worldwide, but we have also seen growth in UK retail where, as we know, things have been difficult to say the least.” New products have been created to support three core themes: the Be
Excited range is about graphic prints and colour; Be Balanced takes its inspiration from the worlds of health, beauty and sport and Be Essential brings together neutral, simple yet substantial colours with earthy materials. Priscilla added: “The Healthy Back Bag was designed, and its unique shape patented, in the USA nearly 20 years ago but it is today that it is seeing global recognition. “As incredibly successful brands such as Fit Flop have shown us, people are not afraid to link fashion with function or aspiration with comfort and practicality.” The Healthy Back Bag is now available in 27 countries and comes in a variety of styles, over 30 colours, 10 different fabrics and currently collaborates with three British textile designers.
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Online selling feature sponsored by Liquid Shop by Sitemakers - www.sitemakers.co.uk
Facebook important for loyalty claim RETAILERS have been warned that new research shows while Facebook falls short in e-commerce, it is important in securing customer loyalty. A new study by Forrester Research reveals that, despite its popularity, Facebook will never become a major player in e-commerce because users see it as a networking site and don’t specifically log on to it to shop. Kevin Flood, co-founder and CEO of Shopow, an online retail shopping search engine, said: “We fully recognise the value of social networking functions in relation to shopping; social activity around shopping needs a context, a time and a place. But because of Facebook’s congested news feeds, relevant activity disappears quickly.” Many small businesses and retailers have opened up Facebook pages in a bid to attract online users to ‘like’ them. And it is acknowledged that, while Facebook users may not come to the page to shop, it is important to build a relationship with them.
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December 2011/January 2012
‘Get online’ says expert wait - not even for the shops to be open.
Your next store should be online, according to Nick Pratt, managing director at Sitemakers Ltd.
Analysis of our own ecommerce retail client base shows that the busiest times for their customers to be on their websites, and buying, is in the evening from around 8- 10pm.
RETAIL sales are growing by 16 per cent year-on-year, new stores are opening daily, and store owners are investing heavily with the realistic expectation of continued profitable growth into 2013.
A time of the day when the vast majority of retail stores are closed for business.
Is this a retail industry that you recognise? It is, in fact, the prevailing view from a part of the retail industry that has managed to grow strongly throughout the recession and during the ongoing economic troubles. The woes of high street retailing have been exacerbated by the structural changes taking place within the retail industry as a whole. Consumers are shifting their spending onto the internet at a faster rate than ever before, and in the absence of overall growth, this is having a significant effect
Sitemakers Ltd managing director Nick Pratt.
on viability of many high street stores. Around 20 per cent of retail spending now takes place online, amounting to around £60bn in 2011.
The growth of mobile internet devices such as smartphones and tablet computers means that consumers are spending more time online, some of that spent researching their retail purchases. If you have an ecommerce website then you can be part of that research and a share of the sales.
Many retailers have already taken the plunge and invested heavily into online retail, with ecommerce websites and supporting service to match.
A good quality ecommerce website is the first step to protecting your business for future and providing a sales channel with proven ongoing growth.
As consumers we expect choice and availability – we do not like to
This is why the next store you open should be online.
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Online selling feature sponsored by Liquid Shop by Sitemakers - www.sitemakers.co.uk
Fashion brands ranked on social media skills By Nicola Hyde A NEW study has ranked the top 200 fashion brands based on how they use social media websites to drive business.
NEW research into buying trends have shown that while shops are still the stronghold, more and more shoppers are buying online and through their phones.
Analyst firm 8thBridge looked at use on Facebook, Twitter, YouTube, Flickr and Tumblr to decide which of the brands use it most successfully.
Retail Assist has done a survey of current shopping habits in the UK and found that lots of options are now available to people.
The report, named Social Commerce IQ: Fashion, examines which strategies are the most critical to be successful with social commerce and discusses the findings from a survey of 1,448 Facebook users to understand how they engage with fashion brands.
Alex Levins, marketing manager, said: “Our research supports the theory that customers are choosing to buy in different ways. While there are now a growing number of routes to market, the preferred channels are stores and the internet. Stores still take the lead at 64.9 per cent, with 95.3 per cent of research done prior to purchase predominantly being internet-based.”
The highest scoring brand was footwear business ShoeDazzle with Fergie Footwear, Vans, and Roberto Cavalli all making it into the top 15. The study showed that 53 per cent of people have liked a fashion page on Facebook to stay informed about new offers; seven per cent will share purchases while 13 per cent share deals. 48 per cent of consumers would be motivated to make a purchase on Facebook if there was an attractive deal. Other findings showed that
Converse had the highest fan count at 20,184,853; DC Shoes had the highest number of YouTube subscribers at 143,070 and Louis Vuitton had the highest average number of Facebook users talking about this at 259,090.
Wade Garten, CEO of 8thBridge, said: “Fashion brands are uniquely positioned to leverage social media and social commerce because of the way consumers express themselves through fashion.”
Boutique signs up footwear talents AN online boutique which aims to promote the talents of British designers has already signed up two of the UK’s brightest footwear talents. IndependentBoutique.com launched this Summer to promote home-grown designers and has already signed up Hetty
Business + Technology
Increase in online buying
Rose and Esska. Hetty Rose’s collection is based on a theory of re-using and re-working vintage materials in a creative and sustainable way. London based label Esska designs footwear uses clean lines, dominant shapes,
organic silhouettes and bold colours. The accessories section sees emerging and established combine, with the likes of British luxury leather goods brand Penelope and Parker and hot new label Carmen Woods.
The number of Smartphone owners was high (77 per cent), with half of them on an iPhone. Although most owners were not currently using their phone for purchasing, some respondents had done so. A significant number of people indicated they made purchases from stores less frequently now than they did a year ago. Alex added: “The expectation of which channels customers see themselves using in the future is already changing. It will be interesting to see which of these areas continue to grow, which decline, and if and when we will see new additions to the multichannel mix.”
December 2011/ January 2012
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Online selling feature sponsored by Liquid Shop by Sitemakers - www.sitemakers.co.uk
Retailer adds other brands HIGH STREET retailer New Look has started offering other footwear brands in addition to its in-house design exclusively through its website. Last month, the company announced that brands like Emu Australia, Rocket Dog, Shellys, Head over Heels by Dune, Bronx and Mel would all sit alongside New Look's own range of shoes. The new-look footwear section will also feature a daily blog that offers expert advice, tips and celebrity style-steals. A spokesman said: “The muchanticipated range is set to launch this month and has been gaining as much buzz as the pending announcements of dozens more fashion names to be added to the New Look Brand's stable. “The collaborative development in footwear comes at an extremely busy and successful period for New Look.”
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December 2011/January 2012
Is ecommerce a good fit for footwear retailers? By Ian Tomlinson, executive chairman, Cybertill
stock that has already been sold in store.
ECOMMERCE is often seen as the saviour of retail, unlimited customers, huge growth potential. But this is not always the case, as costly investments into ecommerce can turn sour.
Modern cloud based EPoS solutions, such as Cybertill, have the capability to share stock in real time with the store (or stores) and provide a truly integrated solution. This removes all the above stock issues and allows for a unified customer file as well, so the customer tracking and loyalty systems are also integrated increasing sales.
So is ecommerce a good fit for independent footwear retailers? The obvious response to this is of course it is for the same reasons stated in the opening line. But there can be a fine line for independent footwear retailers. Stock lines that run out can still be viewed online, is the website easy to navigate, will it rank well in search engines, there are a plethora of factors that can affect a websites performance. But the main issue faced by independent footwear retailers when trading online is their actual stock.
Ian Tomlinson
They cannot normally afford to ring fence large amounts of valuable stock for web sales but at the same time the vast majority of separate web sites don’t communicate in real time to the retailers EPoS stock control system. Meaning that web stock levels are either not available on line, which reduces customer confidence, or are simply inaccurate, which allows for sales to be made against
It is even possible for clients to reserve on line and collect at store again in real time which increases sales again. So if investing into an ecommerce solution ensure it communicates with your EPoS system in real time, so all sales channels operate seamlessly together, so the business systems are truly integrated or many hours of staff time can be wasted and sales can be affected.
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Now is the best time to invest By Laura West UNFORTUNATELY the damage done to feet and other areas of the body by ill fitting shoes is gradual and there is no doubt that poorly fitted shoes don’t just damage feet but one’s entire physiology. It is only when aches, pains, arthritis, rheumatism etc. creep into our joints that we realise some if it is down to our gait and start to regret that we neglected our feet, or resent our parents for their lack of care. Unfortunately there is no legal obligation to know anything about feet or footwear to sell shoes, but there is a moral obligation. If you visit a dentist, a hairdresser, a tattooist or an acupuncturist you would expect them to be professionally qualified just in case they damage your health in some way. However, when consumers visit shops selling shoes they expect the same treatment, but the majority cannot claim to have a professional shoe fitter instore. Many staff merely wield a fitting gauge assuming the information it gives will guide them to the right box and, therefore, the shoes will automatically fit and they don’t therefore the public believe they can do a better job themselves.
Business + Technology
Sadly using a gauge is just the first step in fitting shoes correctly. Podiatrists, reflexologists and health experts are more than aware of this and because they recognise the appalling lack of knowledge and professional service on our High Street, there is now a surge of interest in selling ‘comfortable’ footwear in clinics and health centres, taking more trade away from retail outlets. Everyone needs a unique selling point to encourage sales, so now is the best time to invest in your staff and your business - not easy when cash flow has become a cash dribble. You may be the owner of your business and know your stuff, but if you spend your time in the office checking figures, counting stock, or simply wafting in and out to escape, leaving your staff to it, your future is in their hands. Your staff are the ‘face’ of your business; if they are unknowledgeable, unhelpful and generally poorly trained, then it is unlikely customers will return. Staff training should not merely consist of knowing where the kettle, toilet and till are, it should be ongoing and empowering, making staff feel capable of answering any question and important in their own
right for the good of the business. Most shop owners have neither the expertise nor time to train, but the Society of Shoe Fitters do, and as they are ‘not-for-profit’ with 52 years of experience of helping the industry and public, they are a great organisation to work with. Because ‘footfall’ is exactly that, the SSF are being pro-active to support members whether they are minimum wage shop staff, highly paid podiatrists, cash-strapped shop owners, or financially aware footwear suppliers. Our first project of the year was to add a page to our website for members to freely advertise for staff, fixtures, fittings, jobs, even businesses, proving very worthwhile to all. We also invited reputable manufacturers and suppliers to become Associate Members so that they can network with our membership. It only costs £200 a year to be an Associate Member with lots of free promotion and opportunities for all, which has had a rewarding knock-on affect for everyone. Hot off the press we shall be sending members two new free show cards to politely discourage the public from using their fitting
service if they have no intention of buying from them and to encourage the public to use a professional fitting service. And now we can offer members only our latest investment - a new infant fitting gauge to complete our suite of fitting gauges. Naturally those selling Clarks, Startrite and Hush Puppies all have access to good gauges, but shops that don’t still wish to offer an excellent fitting service and this will help them tremendously. In consultation with professional gauge makers – Carter Design Group, the new gauge is user friendly in every sense, complimenting the knowledge our members have. Our courses are being revamped with a special Deluxe course for new businesses (next course starts March 1st following MODA) and we are working closely with Datateam to provide a first class awards dinner at the Moda show – not to be missed. We have even doubled our promotional/advertising efforts to lead consumers to the finest in the industry. Laura West is the secretary of the Society of Shoe Fitters.
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TRAINING
Contacts Sales
Dominic Musgrave – Reporter
Tony Barry – Sales & Marketing Director
Editorial Contacts
(tb@whpl.net)
Tel: 01226 734694 Email: nl@whpl.net
Beverley Green – Sales Manager (bg@whpl.net)
Design & Production
Avertising Contacts
Stewart Holt – Studio Manager
Tel: 01226 734333 Fax: 01226 734477
(sth@whpl.net)
Natalie Talbot – Graphic Designer (kw@whpl.net)
Editorial Judith Halkerston – Group Editor Nicola Hyde – Editor Christina Eccles – Reporter
Circulation 01226 734695 (24 hour hotline) Email: circulation@wharncliffepublishing.co.uk
RETAIL SOLUTIONS
diary dates RETAIL SOLUTIONS
Expo Riva Riva del Garda Trade Fair Centre, Lake Garda - Italy 14 - 17 January 2012 (www.exporivaschuh.it/eng/default.asp) Bread & Butter Airport Berlin - Tempelhof, Berlin 18 - 20 January 2012 (www.breadandbutter.com Chic Ricoh Arena, Coventry, 29 - 01 Jan / February 2012 (www.chicuk.com)
FOOTWEAR CONSULTANTS
ISPO New Munich Trade Fair Centre, Germany 29 - 01 Jan / February 2012 (www.ispo-winter.com) Pure London Olympia Grand Hall, London 12 - 14 February 2012 (www.purelondon.com)
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28 Panama Jack
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