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‘Design a Shoe’ finalists revealed by Hush Puppies THE five finalists of the Hush Puppies ‘Design a Shoe’ competition have been announced. They have been selected from more than 750 entries by a judging panel and over 16,000 public votes. All the finalists have won free Schuh shoes for a year, styling sessions and event tickets and will now be given access to a mentoring process with the brand’s designers to refine their creation. The finished designs will be presented to the panel on 29 October at a ceremony where the
winner will be chosen and announced. The overall winner will have their shoe made by Hush Puppies and sold exclusively in high street retailer Schuh. The five finalists are: Georgina Wray, 22, London: A footwear designer who moved to London four years ago to study art and design. Her shoe is based on the ideas of modern structures and movement. Cathryn Nicholson, 23, Plymouth: A clothing designer with
a degree in fashion. Her shoe-boot style has been created to make the wearer feel good. Laura Berry, 36, Birmingham: A part time textiles teacher, Laura aimed to create a feminine yet practical shoe suitable for a working mum. Heidi Henderson, 21, Norfolk: A footwear design BA honours student, Heidi came up with the inspiration for her design after buying a vintage birdcage. Sarah Rygielski, 29, Paisley: Sarah has qualifications in art and graphic design and took her inspiration from the children’s book ‘The Elves and the Shoemaker’.
Tasty new Base London range set to go with a sizzle MEN’S footwear brand Base London is launching Fish ‘N’ Chips, a new range for summer 2010 consisting of graphic heavy, printed canvas styles, inspired by music and modern youth culture. The collection features designs including geometric, floral and 80s influenced prints in lace ups, slip ons, espadrilles and lightweight boots, on a rubber sole and with a gingham printed sock. Styles include Cod, a lace up
with tough durable rubber sole available in a variety of colour and printed uppers, Wrapped, a casual canvas wing tip and Scampi, a low profile lace up. Ian Cartwright, managing director, said: “Fish ‘N’ Chips is an exciting new venture for Base London.
“It will display all the high quality characteristics that we are renowned for; style, innovation, value for money and will allow the brand to enter another sector of the market, appealing to an even wider customer base. “The addition of the Fish ‘N’ Chips sub-branding gives us greater flexibility to demonstrate the playful side of the brand.”
Shoe-fitting courses in demand THE number of independent retailers signing up for shoe-fitting courses has reached an all-time high according to the Society of Shoe Fitters. The organisation has found that the difficult selling environment has encouraged retailers to look around for something that can set them apart from the competition. Society secretary Laura West said: “The credit crunch has revealed a need within the industry for specialisation and that has meant that student numbers on our courses are at an all time high. “We are also receiving lots of enquiries from existing, experienced shoe fitters who want to take our examination in order to obtain a recognised qualification –
which they can then promote to the public and health representatives.
AS the dust settles after this summer’s shows it’s the comfort brands that have been the big success of the season. More styles than ever are combining fashion with a good fit and retailers have been keen to buy into a trend which attracts a wide audience in a tough economic climate. The sector’s could now be set to grow even further following a new campaign from the TUC slamming high heels and encouraging women to wear more practical styles at work. To find out more, this month we speak to a member of the Society of Chiropodists and Podiatrists about the issues involved and how retailers can help their customers to make the right footwear choices. We also hear from two up and coming designers who have put their collections together with comfort and style in mind.
“With the public able to buy shoes anywhere, even in the comfort of their own homes, a recognised qualification can give retailers that bit extra in terms of knowledge, skill, confidence and support.
Designs from Victoria Rezon’s cowhide boot collection can be created in made to measure sizes for a perfect individual fit, and the debut range from Havva Mustafa uses the best Italian leathers for pain free heels.
“In turn, this creates a positive and respectful sales environment.” The society has also announced the appointment of a new president to mark its 50th birthday - Bernard O’Brien of Tuam, County Galway. He has taken over from Lesley Waddy of Best Feet First, Surrey after two years in office and has been joined by Jan Parry as vice president.
Comfort counts in tough times
Bernard O’Brien receiving his Chain of Office from Lesley Waddy
Finally, we preview this year’s Boutique by Chic accessory show, looking at the best new brands from the UK and Europe that will be on display.
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04 Cover
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Contents COVER STORY
Issue 55 October/November 09 Jewellery brand arrives in UK Get me to the church on time
NEWS
Jenson models new range
NEWS
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Sales Tony Barry - Sales & Marketing Director Beverley Green - Sales Manager (bg@whpl.net) Advertising Contacts Tel: 01226 734333 | Fax: 01226 734477
Editorial
SPOTLIGHT
Keeping with tradition
RETAIL REVIEW
Those little extras
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Biker boots rock
KIDS
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Andrew Harrod - Group Editor Judith Halkerston - Group Deputy Editor Louise Cordell - Editor Christina Eccles - Reporter Mary Ferguson - Reporter Editorial Contacts Tel: 01226 734694 | Fax: 01226 734705 Email: lcordell@whpl.net
Design & Production
COMFORT
Women put fashion over fit
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Stewart Holt - Studio Manager (sth@whpl.net)
Kyle Wilkinson - Design & Production (kw@whpl.net)
DIARY DATES
What’s going on and when
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Circulation 01226 734695 (24 hour hotline) Email: circulation@wharncliffepublishing.co.uk
Creating uniquely personal jewellery at a reasonable price ONE of the most exciting jewellery brands, Spinning Jewellery, which has already caught the imagination of consumers in Europe has arrived in the UK. The style-led rings, bangles, bracelets, necklaces and earrings have dazzled fashion conscious women of all ages, allowing them to create their own jewellery to suit the occasion or the latest trends. Today Spinning Jewellery has become an international market leader, founded on the design idea of ‘combination jewellery’, high quality and affordable prices. The concept was born in Denmark in 2003 when ten small rings, priced from £17 a piece, were designed, each featuring a beautiful stone, a heart or a flower motif, and then combined with each other to create an individual ring.
A spokesman from UK distributor, DMJ, said: “With Spinning Jewellery you can express yourself and let your creativity flow. “You can create a uniquely personal piece of jewellery at a reasonable price that ultimately defines you.” DMJ, based in County Durham, is also distributing five other jewellery and watch-brands such as the dazzling Storywheels bracelets, the eye-catching Glam Rock watches, fashion designer Nicky Vankets’ jewellery range, Belle Etoile jewellery and Tocs watches. Storywheels is the ultimate composable bracelet, celebrating special moments in a woman’s life, such as a wedding or a special holiday. Made from wheels of silver, gold, pearls or diamonds, a Storywheels bracelet is a unique piece of jewellery to last a lifetime. The watch market is about to receive a boost with the beautiful Glam Rock watch, also distributed by DMJ. Responding to a demand for fashionable design as well as quality, the exclusive watch brand was founded in Miami in 2005. Fun and full of colour, Tocs watches
match the active lifestyle of the young. Using the finest Seiko Japan movement with Quartz accuracy, the watch is water resistant and perfect for a day at the beach. Also distributed by DMJ are Belgian fashion designer Nicky Vankets jewellery collection, based on a pallet of golds and silvers, and the pretty Belle Etoile jewellery collection, aimed at the modern woman who keeps an eye on the next trend. For more information visit: www.dmj.info or www.spinninguk.net or call: 01388 770 870
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BFA training scheme launched By Louise Cordell THE British Footwear Association has announced the launch of a new training scheme. The BFA Training Support Programme is aimed at its small and medium sized members and will offer grants and support to help businesses with their training. Richard Kottler, BFA chief executive, said: “Our members have told us that they need really practical help and funding to support their company training, which has become a particular issue during these difficult times. “We have had a separate trust fund for many years that in the past has been used for operative training in manufacturing – however with the downturn in manufacturing we have been looking for other ways this money could be utilised and this training support programme seemed ideal.” The programme can cover any job function, at any level in the organisation and is applicable to both new and existing employees of BFA members. In order to be considered, applicants are being asked to demonstrate their need for specific training, the details of their training programme and how the money will be used.
Richard added: “The sorts of approaches we have had so far include people who would like to book staff onto a shoe making or SATRA course, who want to hire an apprentice and put them through training or who want to train up their personnel officer. “With the economic situation as it is at the moment the cost could be prohibitive for smaller companies – so hopefully we can assist them.” The aim is to create a very flexible programme which can include everything from external, formal training to in-house mentoring schemes. It is hoped that this will help smaller businesses not only survive, but develop and grow as well. Richard added: “This is not a one off event – it will be an ongoing initiative with awards being made each year. “It seems to have really struck a chord with our members – it is good timing because people are watching every penny but they don’t want to scrimp on their training programmes - they realise how important it is to keep investing in the future.” The BFA board is now set to review the applications for support and final award decisions will be made at the end of October.
Crocs target hospitality workers A NEW type of Crocs has been released for men and women working in the hospitality industry. The lightweight Crocs Work Bistro clogs are recommended for people who are on their feet all day and an enclosed toe and heel is incorporated to protect the feet in a work environment. The shoes are bacteria and odour resistant with an orthotic foot bed which stimulates circulation and shock absorbing properties to minimise impact on the feet, legs and lower back. They also feature anatomically designed heel areas and medical arch supports help prevent rotation of the foot. Finally, the wide base increases stability and non-marking soles exceed slip resistance standards on oil, water and soap.
A new range of satin trainers for brides has been released by the Rainbow Club. Designed by Diane Hassall, the shoes have been created to be worn with a prom style dress, in the style of Lily Allen. The trainers are made from dyeable satin and can be hand coloured to any shade to match a dress or wedding theme. There is also a children’s shoe style available which replaces the laces with an easy velcro fastening.
Organisers celebrate successful shows
Belmondo
ORGANISERS of international shoe fairs GDS and Global Shoes were celebrating successful shows after receiving over 28,500 visitors. The trade shows presented 1,145 exhibitors from 42 countries at the exhibition centre in Düsseldorf with over 1,800 spring/summer 2010 collections on show. Kirstin Deutelmoser, show director, said: “We are very satisfied with the way GDS and Global Shoes went – both events presented themselves as reliable fixtures in unsettled times. “The pooling of the individual lifestyle worlds and the extension of the information programme for retail have proven good steps to take.” One in two buyers who
attended had travelled from abroad and the top five countries represented were Benelux, Italy, Great Britain, Spain and France. The most popular parts of the show included the wide selection of ranges presented, the current trend updates and the seminar programme at the new speakers lounge. Werner Matthias Dornscheidt, Messe Düsseldorf CEO, said: “The fairs have shown that the shoe sector still feels very much at home in Düsseldorf even after 50 years. “To ensure this continues to be the case we intend to develop GDS and Global Shoes further, continually adapting them to changing market circumstances.” ISSUE 55 OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2009
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Sales drop dash recovery hopes RETAIL sales fell throughout August, after two months of growth, dashing hopes of a recovery in consumer spending.
was a result of general enthusiasm over the summer, but this slide is not necessarily a return to depression, but a return to caution.
The latest figures from the British Retail Consortium show that UK retail sales values fell 0.1 per cent on a like for like basis from August 2008, with footwear and clothing sales continuing to weaken more than other areas.
“Retailers need to be promoting points of difference - either pushing new collections hard or highlighting specific good value offers.
Craig Phillipson, of retail consultancy firm Shopworks, said: “August is always a time when people re-prioritise their spending. “I think the rise in June and July
“It is also important that they are very clear about their communication of price points, because that is what will get people through the doors.” Experts are predicting that the decline in sales will worry retailers
as they face the final quarter of the year, which is heavily relied on for annual profits. The fact that they are having to deal with negative like for like sales again, after facing the same situation last year, is leaving many companies with problems controlling costs and generating cash. Retailers are also expecting to face a tough Christmas, which will be further disrupted by VAT returning to 17.5 per cent on 1 January 2010. Craig added: “Of course independents cannot compete with the bigger stores in terms of the
price cuts and larger sales they are able to put on. “However, to fight back they should select a few lines and push them hard, rather than spending time and money promoting all their stock. “They should also be smarter about selecting new product ranges. “Independents have a great advantage in that they can be ahead of the trend curve, buying in small quantities of the latest styles, so they need to make the most of that to stay ahead.”
Association brings three more directors on board THE British Footwear Association has announced the appointment of three new board directors. Paul Humphrey, group HR director of the R. Griggs Group which produces Doc Martens, Michael Kelly, chief executive and joint chairman of the Sutton Group and Adam Marsden, head of sales for Clarks International have joined the board.
British brand Bamboo A has re-invented its style from skater to European twist for its new spring/summer 2010 collection. The brand first launched in 2006 with the aim of producing a niche cult trainer range to appeal to DJs, skaters and the hip-hop world, featuring bold, colourful and vibrant designs. However, after a few seasons, the brand noticed an increasing demand for a more toned down, subtle designer feel, offering a smart but comfortable look. Its latest collection is now focussed on designs influenced by the style and culture of London, with a European influence.
Richard Kottler, BFA chief executive, said: “I am delighted at these new board appointments, the board now truly reflects the broad range of the UK footwear industry from manufacture to supply. “Paul, Michael and Adam bring a wide range of experience to the running of the BFA and will provide not only astute but also specialist input into providing better services for our members.”
Designer brand opens new store DESIGNER brand Jeffery-West is celebrating the opening of brand new store in Northampton. The brand collaborated with Rhys Frampton to create a collection of photography work which is exhibited in the shop and Mark BrazierJones produced a range of animal print covered chairs
and tables as well as helping to design a selection of boots. The new store will offer a full footwear and accessory bespoke service alongside ready to wear collections and made to order ranges. It will stock accessories including bags, wallets and luggage with new designs
featuring digitally printed leathers. Guy West said: “Our philosophy is simple – to make the best and most stylish shoes we can. “It harks back to classic English craftmanship with most of the shoes made in Northampton.”
New Rockport range with built-in Adidas trainers ROCKPORT for men have teamed up with Adidas to launch a new collection of men’s shoes and boots with built-in Adidas trainers. The aim of the collaboration has been to create a smart, design led collection of men’s footwear that offers the comfort and performance of a trainer. Two new technologies are built into the
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collection – AdiPrene by Adidas, which provides heel cushioning for extra comfort and Dynamic Suspension, which is a cushion of moving air directly beneath the foot bed. To prove how comfortable the range is, several Rockport employees, including the managing director, are now planning on running the Dublin marathon while wearing the shoes.
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Designer spotlight Third generation designer Havva Mustafa has launched her first luxury footwear line, combining high quality with contemporary style. Out On A Limb finds out how her family heritage has shaped the range and why comfort is just as important as fashion.
Havva keeps up family tradition HAVVA Mustafa was born into a family of footwear designers and grew up determined to preserve the tradition. After studying at Cordwainers she spent several years in the industry in design, development and sourcing roles, but was keen to start producing her own styles. She was constantly stopped on the street when wearing her own designs, and decided that the time was right to launch the new brand, Havva. She said: “My father and grandfather were designers and after growing up surrounded by lasts and leathers I think it became second nature, it was always something I was going to do. “I was desperate to see my own styles in shop windows so I researched, designed and pattern cut the whole of this first collection myself. “I think if you hand any aspect of the process over to someone else you might regret the fact it’s not exactly the way you wanted it – I wanted everything in my own hands.” The collection features a wide range of different designs, from lace up and zip ankle boots to knee high gladiator sandals, 40s inspired sandals with ruching and buttons and classic styles like double platform slingbacks and peep toe courts. Overall there are 16 different designs for spring/summer 2010, created from a mix of leathers, suedes, satins and skins. Havva added: “I was inspired by a combination of delicate, retro detailing and strong, geometric, architectural lines. “I hope that by bringing these aspects together I have created styles that will appeal to a wide range of people. “It was also very important to me to create a high quality product – I felt that Italy was the only place to get that top level material and craftsmanship and am very happy that I decided to go down that route. “It is more expensive, but I think people will always be willing to invest in a product they can hold on to and that will work from season to season, I want my designs to be wardrobe staples. “Finally, I wanted to make sure that the
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shoes were comfortable as well as beautiful. “I know that it is the worst thing in the world to love a pair of heels, but not be able to wear them because they pinch or rub – so I focussed on the cut and design to get a great fit from the very first stages. “I shaped the lasts and selected the materials so that even the highest heels in the collection can be worn all day long.” Havva is now working to introduce the line to high end boutiques around the UK and so far has received a good response from retailers keen to stock the brand. She is also aiming to introduce a men’s range to run alongside the women’s collection, which should be completed for spring/summer 2011 and plans to collaborate with her designer father to get his perspective on the styles. She added: “At heart we are a family business and I think people appreciate how invested we are in the products. “People in the UK are enthusiastic about a new London brand, but my Turkish Cypriot heritage means I would like to take my designs out of the country and into Europe as well. “My main aim is to keep developing the brand and creating new styles that people can get really excited about.”
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New range presses the right button with Jenson More designs are already planned for next season, and are set to be released in line with the brand’s growing collection of clothing lines.
By Louise Cordell THE first-ever protective fashion footwear line from Alpinestars has been launched, modelled by Grand Prix star Jenson Button. The company is well known for its motorsports apparel ranges but has now released the Shibuya shoe – casual footwear that can be worn on a motorcycle, inspired by the retro youth culture of Japan. Gabriele Mazzarolo, Alpinestars president, said: “Alpinestars has always created clothes and shoes for sports protection, but as the company has branched out we have had to reconcile our ideals with the reality that many riders forego optimum protection for casual comfort or style. “So in order to protect as many people as possible, we've decided to make protective casual shoes in popular styles so that we can at least provide these casual riders with the maximum protection that their taste allows.” The design has been created around a basketball shoe silhouette, as the height met the need for a motorcycle boot to be mid-cut and allowed extra hidden padding to be incorporated to protect the ankle. Gabriele added: “It only took a few subtle changes to optimise the classic stye. “We made the cupsole slimmer to reduce the weight and to limit the chance that the sidewall would catch on a shift lever, and we gave the outsole an even, coarse texture to maximise grip. “There’s also added toe and heel reinforcement and one of the styles
Jenson Button
features a waterproof and breathable bootie construction. “All the elements are invisible or heavily integrated and that’s the beauty of it.” The Shibuya design is available in mesh, canvas or leather versions, either laced or with three velcro straps and in slate grey and white colourways. Gabriele added: “The idea was a casual one that originated during a trip to Japan – we noticed the scooter fashion and all the guys following an angular, retrofuturistic feel, reminiscent of designs from the 80s. “We loved the look and wanted to create shoes that were as fresh and clean as the scooters.”
Designer shoe hire site in UK first THE UK’s first designer shoe hire site has been launched offering styles from brands including Jimmy Choo and Christian Louboutin. Cinderella-Me.co.uk allows members to borrow footwear from top collections from just £40 per week. Alexandra Hones, company director, said: “Fashionable women understand the importance of accessorising their outfits to create a real impact. “Until now, wearing amazing shoes from these luxury brands was simply a dream for most women.
“But with Cinderella Me that dream can now be realised – any girl can spend one week sporting the most glamorous Jimmy Choos and then, the following week, swap them for a pair of exotic Dior creations.” Brands currently stocked on the site also include Alexander McQueen, Giuseppe Zanotti, D&G, Gucci and YSL and the collection is continually expanding. Alexandra added: “Our market research has shown that there is a real demand for designer shoe hire.
“Women are discerning, aspirational and informed in their choice of fashion footwear and as shoe design continues to reach new heights, the site makes many of these styles accessible. “Designer fashion hire has really taken off in the USA with things like handbag hire, and in the present economic climate, it is simply a more sensible option. “It allows women the freedom to alternate and vary their wardrobes without breaking the bank.” The site offers shoes in UK sizes two to eight, including half sizes, and
most designs have a choice of three or four sizes available. After eight rentals each pair of shoes is then offered for sale to members at a discounted price. ISSUE 55 OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2009
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Troubled retailers on rise THE number of retailers facing ‘critical’ financial troubles has increased 91 per cent compared to this time last year, according to a new report. Research from Begbies Traynor has shown that all sectors are suffering from substantial growth of both ‘significant’ and ‘critical’ adverse actions, compared to a year ago. The findings are from the business rescue company’s Red Flag Alert system, which monitors warning signs of corporate stress. The total number of companies showing signs of trouble has risen to 84,648 in March 2009 compared to 53,240 a year ago, an increase of 59 per cent, with retail and manufacturing named as major sectors for casualties. Ric Traynor, Begbies Traynor executive chairman, said: “The findings of our latest Red Flag Alert echo the findings of other recent surveys, showing as they do increasing business failures. “The reduced rate of decline in quarter on quarter adverse actions is some good news; however, this is not the same as a recovery. “Last week’s Budget tax increases and public spending cuts are unlikely to make life any easier for struggling companies. “Regrettably experience tells us that company and personal insolvencies, like unemployment, are a lagging indicator, and are therefore likely to continue to rise through the recession.”
Employment law advice for small retailers SMALL retailers struggling with employment law are being offered advice by the Forum of Private Business. THE FPB has launched its new Employment Guide to help businesses ensure they are complying with the law. The issue has become a growing problem for companies that have been forced to make redundancies because of the recession, or even dismiss staff following disciplinary breaches. A recent study carried out by the forum revealed that keeping up with the latest legislation is the most expensive administrative task faced by small companies, costing almost £2.4bn each year.
The UK's first ever High-Heel-a-thon has taken place in Leeds, with hundreds of fundraisers completing a 1.24 mile course in their stilettos. They were joined by Yorkshire singing star Kimberly Walsh, who took part to help the crowds raise money for the Breast Cancer Haven charity. Dozens of men also got involved, donning high heels to be part of the event. Cross dresser Ian 'Susan' Platt, 51, was the winner of the highest-heel prize after managing to complete the course in his 10-inch stilettos. Picture: Kimberly Walsh and Deana Morgan
Shoemakers’ conference dates set The 12th Independent Shoemakers Conference is set to take place at Latimer Place, Chesham on February 26-28 2010. The programme will include seminars on how to make and repair uppers by hand and how to adapt shoes with raises, among other topics. There will be visits to Carreducker shoes have been launched at the tailoring store, Stowers Bespoke, as part of its vision to offer a bespoke service to customers. Carréducker specialise in handsewn, traditionally made footwear and the brand creators, James and Deborah, will now be holding fitting appointments at the Savile Row store, before constructing the shoes at the Bloomsbury studio. The new autumn/winter collection includes a range of limited edition brogues, for men and women and a full collection of unisex slip-ons and slippers in a selection of contemporary tweeds by Dashing Tweeds. Other styles include loafers, saddle boots and limited edition half cuts.
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shoemakers’ workshops in London on the Sunday as well as an opportunity to sell off surplus stock and tools. For more information call Peter Schweiger of James Taylor and Son on: 0207 9354149 or e-mail: post@taylormadeshoes.co.uk.
It also showed that more than one in three of all calls to the forum’s helpline related to employment matters – more than any other issue. The problems are also set to get worse as, from this month, business owners will be expected to cope with a range of legal changes, including increases in the national minimum wage and an increase in the cost of redundancy. Matt Goodman, FPB’s policy representative, said: “Many firms are worried that they are not following the correct redundancy procedures when they have to lay off staff, and with the recent legislation changes, they are also concerned that it is becoming a more expensive process.
“There is a knock-on effect the increase will also affect other statutory compensation payments, including unfair dismissal awards, compensation for non-compliance with flexible working procedures and compensation should a statement of employment particulars not be provided to an employee.” The forum is urging business owners to use the Employment Guide to put watertight procedures in place, and to update these annually as well as when any legislation changes arise. It also points out that complying with the latest laws is an expensive burden for companies, costing them more that the £2.1bn spent each year on health and safety administration and the £1.8bn spent on tax. Matt added: “It is important to realise how big an issue this is. “Smaller businesses spend £259m each year on work associated with dismissals and redundancy and a further £391m on absence control and management, £237m on maternity, £333m on disciplinary issues, and £1,175m on holidays and other remaining aspects of employment legislation. “The average time per month spent on all of these different aspects of employment law is around ten hours for each company, which is a significant investment.”
Retailer trials new footwear concept NEW LOOK, the UK’s largest retailer of young women’s footwear, has launched its first standalone footwear and accessories store. The New Look Footwear and Accessories concept has opened at Cribbs Causeway in Bristol as part of a trial by the high street chain. The company is now scouting the market for further locations and is likely to run a ten store trial where its existing stores are not large enough to carry the full footwear offer. It is hoped that the stores will be a new opportunity to introduce the brand’s footwear and accessories to shoppers who might not buy New Look clothing.
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Boutique Preview
Euro brands head for show THIS year’s Boutique by Chic show is set to feature accessory brands from around Europe. The fashion event will take place on 25 October at the Ricoh Arena in Coventry and guests will be supplied with complimentary champagne, cocktails and blinis. UK brands exhibiting include Fiorelli, RI2K, Mischa Barton, Ciccia, Modalu London, Charlotte Reid, Storm, Bulatti, Divine Rocks and Rosie Fox. The spring/summer 2010 collection from Italian brand Kontessa features a range of styles including Nini, Cirimbrentola, Pilica, Tullora, Bionda and Dollara. Inspired by the Italian countryside, colours include pastels, beige, rose, blue, orange and red and the styles incorporate traditional skills such as plaiting, embroidery and knitwork combined with modern eco-furs and laminates.
There is also a wide range of European brands such as Gianni Conti, Roberta Gandolfi, Martina Caponi, Kontessa and Pavoni. Also showing are Lollipops and Roshanara Scarves from France; Lupo, Sachelle, Menbur and Vanilla Moon from Spain; Vera Mont and Axel David from Holland and Olga Berg from Australia. The show is timed to take place just
after the Paris and Milan fairs to ensure that buyers see finalised collections, while also ensuring early ‘made to order’ deliveries at the beginning of the selling season.
This year there will also be a free shuttle bus service from Birmingham International Airport and railway station to help guests get to and from the show.
Family-run brand Pavoni has released its latest collection of accessories, all designed and produced in Italy. Every piece is hand prepared and finished and constructed from specially selected exotic leathers. The brand will be showing for the first time in the UK at Chic and their first 15 clients will receive a case of Rosso Piceno wine from the Marche region, in Italy, with their first order over £1,000 and all client orders at the show will receive one article free with every 12 pieces bought.
Packed with inspiration
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The latest collection from Axel David has been inspired by the vintage feel of Ibiza. The influence is shown in the use of colour and detailing with ocean blues, coral pinks, yellows, beige and purples. The range includes clutch bags in a selection of tones and material combinations, as well as larger bags featuring soft folds and rounded shapes. ISSUE 55 OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2009
BAGSAC has introduced a new collection for travellers featuring a range of cabin trolleys and matching laptop cases and travel bags. Nanda Hofman, brand designer, said: “There is great demand for wheeled cases that are small enough to be taken on board a plane as hand luggage, but the existing products on offer are frequently very unimaginative – we are looking to turn cabin trolleys into a fashion accessory.” The brand’s main spring/ summer line is inspired by the African savannah and features
earth colours in natural linen and exotic animal prints and colour-in-colour leather look materials are used in combination to create a striking effect.
Laptop bags with style ... PENELOPE and Parker is an up and coming British luxury leather brand specialising in stylish work wear bags. They are made specifically to carry a laptop, but made to look like designer handbags that can be converted to a weekend or overnight bag. Styles come in a range of colours from tangerine and sea blue to croc printed leather, khaki and black. The bags have been designed to hold laptops without being bulky, with a removable, quilted sleeve to protect the computer and separate compartments for other belongings.
Menbur’s exciting collection will be at Boutique – See advertisement on Page 14
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Retail industry hit hardest in job loss stakes
The latest collection from designer brand Feud London includes a range of trainers for men and women available in metallic silver and gold. The styles are targeted at the young boutique market and are all inspired by traditional British shapes with a modern fashion edge.
Reiker adds to the team GERMAN shoe manufacturer Rieker has appointed two new members to run its UK and Ireland team. Chris Gorrod, managing director, and James Podmore, sales manager, now aim to build on the success Rieker has enjoyed over the last few years. Chris Gorrod has been with the Rieker Group since 1998 and his last seven years have been in a senior managerial role in North America. Chris said: “It was my privilege to be offered the position of managing
director, here in the UK. “It is my plan to continue to lead the growth that Rieker has had in the market over the past few years and to develop new and existing partnerships with our customers.” James Podmore has management experience at several household names including Aquascutum, Clarks and Timberland. He added: “I am looking forward to working closely with Rieker’s extensive customer base to ensure the continued success of the brand.”
By Louise Cordell
risen by 1.2 percentage points.
THE retail industry has seen the largest rise in people claiming the dole during the last year, according to a new TUC report.
Brendan Barber, TUC general secretary, said: 'These figures explode the myth that this is some kind of classless – or even middle-class – recession.
The study has found that while workers in every sector have been hit by the downturn, sales and retail assistants have been affected the most, with a 76,230 increase in the number of shop workers signing up for Jobseekers Allowance. The TUC claims that these large numbers can partly be explained by the higher amount of jobs in these areas across the economy, however unskilled and low-paid occupations are also experiencing higher rates of unemployment than professional groups. While the unemployment rate for workers in elementary occupations is 12.7 per cent, and has risen 3.6 percentage points on the year, the rate for those in professional occupations is 2.3 per cent, and has
“It's the low skilled and the low-paid who are bearing the brunt of this recession. And they are certainly not seeing any recovery. “And with unemployment set to increase throughout the whole of next year, and possibly beyond, tackling joblessness must be Government's number one priority. The Government must do all it can to tackle joblessness and the permanent scar of long-term unemployment.” The report also found that low-paid workers are more likely to spend far longer on Jobseekers Allowance than other groups, with 41 per cent of those in elementary sales and retail jobs remaining unemployed for over six months.
Saucony Brighton Marathon launch
Marathon completes jigsaw for brand ATHLETIC footwear brand Saucony has announced and exclusive partnership with the inaugural Brighton Marathon. The event is set to take place in April 2010 and organisers, the Grounded Events Company, aim to make it the second largest marathon in the UK. Tim Hutchings, race director and former British Olympian, said: “It has been an amazing few weeks since the launch and demand for entries has not abated since. “Current expectations are that the event will be at capacity by the end of the summer and all 1,000 entries reserved for local residents were snapped up in the first eight hours.” The event will take place one week
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before the London Marathon – a specific strategy by organisers to offer some of those 100,000 runners rejected from the London race the opportunity to take part. Andrew Sainsbury, Stride Rite UK managing director, said: “Saucony are already sponsors of several major events around the UK including the English National Cross Country Championships, IronMan UK and the Grizzly, a 20-mile off road race which sells out in days. “The Brighton Marathon now completes the jigsaw with regard to our race portfolio and reaffirms our commitment to bringing running to the people, regardless of their health and ability.”
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Accessories A new range of retro styled handbags have gone on sale in boutiques across London and the south east. The collection from new designer Samantha Mark was launched at New York Fashion Week last year and is now available at stores including Mensah, Beyond the Valley, Covet and Jell-o as well as online.
A new ethical bag shop selling men’s and women’s accessories has launched online. Plumethical.co.uk stocks bags made exclusively from reclaimed, recycled and non-animal materials including luxury ‘green’ brands such as The Rubber Cow Company, PlanetSilverChilli, Neumatica and E&KO. Simon Garrett, Plum Ethical’s owner, said: “We want to show that ethical bags are also beautiful bags. “The designs demonstrate a return to artistry and producing beautifully crafted goods but using only
sustainable resources and without a detrimental effect to the environment. We believe that fashion should play its part in recycling, and the bags we sell are testimony that ethics and fashion can successfully mix.” The shop offers practical day bags; from handbags and evening bags through to holdalls and weekend bags for travel and sports. E&KO’s red bags are made from British decommissioned fire hoses, The Rubber Cow Company bags are suitable for vegans and Neumatica’s designs are created from tough reclaimed tyre tubes.
Palladium gets precious acknowledgement By Louise Cordell PALLADIUM has been officially acknowledged as a precious metal for the fine jewellery industry with a new hallmark to guarantee its quality. The UK’s four Assay Offices will now be able to mark Palladium pieces with a legally recognised hallmark, following increased interest in the metal within the jewellery trade and among consumers. Palladium is one of the platinum group metals and is tarnish resistant, white and durable. It also has low density, and is less expensive than Platinum, enabling designers to produce pieces which are both wearable and affordable
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and offer high perceived value to the consumer. Michael Allchin, chief executive of The Birmingham Assay Office said: “Palladium provides a new opportunity for the jewellery trade. “Designs which may have been impossibly heavy or expensive in platinum can be very attractive and commercially viable in palladium. “There are already some stunning palladium pieces on the market; the reassurance of a UK hallmark will give the consumer added protection and confidence when purchasing palladium jewellery and we expect this to be a significant growth area for the jewellery industry.”
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News
‘Wetsuit amnesty’ offers flip flop swap SURFERS from around the country are being given the chance to exchange their old wetsuits for recycled flip flops as part of a huge recycling drive. Rip Curl launched Project Resurrection, the UK’s first ever national ‘wetsuit amnesty’ at its flagship Newquay store. The event followed the company’s three year research programme into the recycling of neoprene in order to find an environmentally friendly use for old wetsuits and the production cut offs. Rip Curl will now be able to use all the material donated, up to 150 tons a year, at their footwear production sites, giving old suits a new lease of life. The debut summer 2009 collection has eight different flip flop styles, all made using the ‘resurrection rubber’ and design plans for an even larger
range for 2010 are now in place. James Hendy, Rip Curl’s marketing manager, said: “Our stores are a great launch pad for the wetsuit amnesty as people can bring in their old suits and walk out with the finished result on their feet experiencing first hand the benefits of recycling their waste and investing in recycled products for the future.” The company is now calling on all surfers and wetsuit owners to search their garages and basements for their old neoprene which can be donated and reused to produce these brand new products. Claire Hancox, Newquay store manager, said: “It was incredible to see how many people arrived at the store throughout the day with all types of old suits, some had even turned up before I arrived to open up at 8.30am, all wanting to do their bit.”
Picture: Victoria Walker
Reebok allows fans to design their own trainers REEBOK has unveiled the latest development in its ‘Design Your Own From Anywhere’ vision. Louise Davies
Society’s golden celebration THE Society of Shoefitters is celebrating its 50th year as a not-for-profit organisation. The society aims to help maintain standards and provide support to the trade and has remained self supporting, even without the benefit of charitable status. Laura West, Society secretary, said: “Without the dedication of our membership, those who sit on our voluntary council or tutor our students, the good work we do would be lost forever. “Even those members who retain their membership and qualification should be applauded, as the small amount it costs to remain a member annually all helps keep our services open to all, and allows us to promote them as a contact point that will inevitably help the public.” This year the society has welcomed its first ever Irish president, Bernard O’Brien of Luke O’Brien Shoes from Tuam in Southern Ireland. He recently presented the Society’s Student of the Year 2009 Award to Louise Davies, manager of Hopscotch Shoes of Chapel Allerton. The store is committed to fitting children’s shoes correctly and Louise is one of several members of the SSF working for this chain of independent shops. Laura added: “The Society never stands still. We are continually taking on new challenges and encouraging people to make the best of themselves. At the same time we champion any cause that keeps the public buying shoes from reputable shops and having their shoes fitted correctly by professionals.”
The brand has created a web portable ‘Your Reebok’ application, which can be embedded on any website, blog or social networking profile page. The app will allow trainer fans to design and buy a pair of customised Reebok shoes from any online location. The development follows the launch of the successful iPhone app, which was released in April, and will enable users to share their final designs with friends via social platforms including Facebook, Twitter, Digg, MySpace and e-mail. The app offers 11 Reebok styles for customisation and the designer can change up to 23 different
areas of the shoe, with a choice of 19 colours, four materials and the option of adding personalised text. Richard Prenderville, head of global brand marketing, said: “Following the success of the Reebok iPhone application, we are taking customisation to the next level with the Portable App. “Customisation is something that is increasingly important to our consumers, so we’ve made it easier for them to design sneakers from anywhere on the web and share their designs with friends.” The app has now been launched on www.yourreebok.com in the US, Germany, France, the UK, Ireland, Belgium, Netherlands and Austria.
Nine per cent rise in Pure visitor numbers PURE London is celebrating its highest attended spring/summer show ever. The event saw a nine per cent rise in visitor numbers and a 21 per cent rise in buyers who returned to spend more than one day at the show. There were over 900 brands exhibiting with established brands as well as over 270 new exhibitors. Attendance from UK buyers was up by nine per cent with buyers from key UK stores including Fenwick, Harvey Nichols, Harrods, ASOS, Selfridges, House of Fraser and John Lewis visiting. The number of international visitor also went up by 3.5 per cent, and countries represented including Ireland, Spain, Germany, Italy, France, Greece, Saudi Arabia and Japan.
The show also hosted a series of seminars and trend presentations on topics including how to negotiate better rent deals from landlords, how to maximise online sales, understanding your customers' shopping habits, how to buy into the right trend and turning collections into commercial reality. Steve Newbold, Pure London managing director, said: “The attendance was significantly up year on year and the visitor profile was of a very high quality. “Feedback from exhibitors was incredibly positive with many having their best ever show. “This bodes well for the industry and proves that good businesses can flourish in a difficult economic environment. “Pure London has cemented its position as Europe's leading fashion trade event for
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Retail Review Maria Atkinson has opened five children’s shoe stores in just four years and has now been named Kids Footwear Retailer of the Year by Drapers. She talks to Out On A Limb about how customer service and community links have helped her succeed in a difficult market.
Little extras help Maria succeed
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MARIA Atkinson opened her first children’s footwear store, Hopscotch, in Wetherby four years ago. She had spent the last ten years at home with her own kids and, when planning to go back to work, noticed a gap in the market. She said: “I realised that there were just no children’s shoe shops in our area and because all my kids had very narrow feet it was a real struggle to find anywhere I could get them properly fitted with a decent choice of styles. “It soon became clear that I hadn’t been the only one with a problem, because the business took off really quickly and went from strength to strength.” A year later she opened a second shop in Horsforth, a third in Chapel Allerton last June and at the beginning of this year two more in Ripon and Harrogate. Her successful formula includes choosing a site out of the town centre for its cheaper rent and parking space and providing a fully stocked play area to keep her younger customers entertained. She also ensures that all staff are fully trained shoe fitters and there is a qualified member of the Society of Shoe Fitters dedicated to each store. She added: “It has been a lot of hard work and we have taken a few risks, but it is about realising that children are the most important thing to their parents and they want the best possible quality and service – and it helps if that comes at a reasonable price. “Those little extras, like nearby, free parking and toys to distract bored siblings are things that I would have appreciated when buying my children’s shoes. “I used to dread it, so my aim is to provide a nice shopping experience for the whole family.” The Hopscotch stores have a mid-range brand offering with a few pricier options for special occasions, including Start-rite, Lelli Kelly, Geox, Converse, Angulus and Pom d’Api. However, as she opened shops in different areas, Maria found that demand varied widely depending on the local community. So rather than buying in the same stock for each store like a typical chain, she selects brand and styles specifically for each shop, ISSUE 55 OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2009
targeting exactly what its customers want. Maria is now hoping to reach an even bigger market with the launch of a new website. She said: “We plan to use the site to sell any stock left over from the last season at discounted prices. “It does go slightly against the grain because our focus is very much on providing the best fitting service, and that is not something that can be done online. “But there is a big market out there who want something cheaper and who find it more convenient to shop over the internet. “So we will be taking returns on any shoes that don’t fit well and will also advise parents to bring their children in for a full fitting if they have any concerns.” Maria believes that the stores’ greatest strength is their community links and she makes sure that every shop works closely with schools in its area - carrying out fundraising for them and taking part in various events. She added: “At the end of the day, they are our customers so we want to do our best for them and they want to help out local businesses in return. “We have fun days, parties and special events to keep things exciting and it means that the kids are always keen to come in – in fact more often than not their parents have to drag them away.”
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Kool for kids
Retailer in community area online By Louise Cordell CHILDREN’S footwear retailer Startrite Shoes has launched a new online community area to help consumers engage with the brand. The aim is to give parents a place to get advice on children’s foot health and share thoughts and experiences and get ideas for activities and games to keep kids occupied.
Designer children's footwear label, Step2wo, has released a pair of unisex biker boots called Rock in its autumn/winter collection. Other themes in the collection include fringing, punk and modern victoriana, and the full range is now available in Step2wo concessions.
the most popular subjects for discussion. Peter Lamble, Start-rite managing director, said: “Being a parent means you gain a wealth of firsthand experience, and our community site is a great way for parents to share information and learn from other mums and dads.
The new development is following a rising trend in companies offering new ways to allow consumers to share recommendations and expertise.
“We’re able to offer practical and helpful advice on caring for your children’s feet, and we’re hoping that parents can complement that by adding their own knowledge and expertise in other areas.
People can participate by writing a blog, or setting up groups that discuss certain topics and it is hoped that the site will provide the brand and its retailers with an insight into the target consumers, revealing the issues currently facing parents and
“We believe it will also prove a useful tool for our retailers, who can find out invaluable information about their customers by seeing what issues parents are discussing when it comes to shoes and foot health.”
Superfit has launched its Back to School range for 2010 with a selection of shoes for all ages. The collection is made up of 16 styles for reception, infant, primary and secondary pupils in black, brown navy, red and black patent colourways. Styles available include a design for boys with a Gore-tex membrane and two new ballerina pump designs for teenage girls.
40 styles, 12 colours ... BABYSHOES carries one of the largest supplies of in stock, continental baby shoes in the UK. It has over 40 styles and 12 colours. It has next day delivery service (free on orders over £250) but does not have a minimum order. Babyshoes have won numerous awards including winner of the Industry Design Awards 2008 and the accolade of inclusion in the Who’s Who of Britain’s Business Elite. The company has showrooms in
Manchester, Birmingham and Glasgow. For more information contact Trevor on 0151 2803049, e-mail: babyshoes@blueyonder.co.uk or visit their website: www.babyshoes.co.uk.
Brand with a celebrity following BOBUX and I-Walk, a stunning collection of pre and first walker from Bobux of New Zealand. Great colours, soft Eco-Leather inners and uppers and innovative design have ensured that Bobux have remained market leaders for almost 20 years. The number one choice amongst mum’s worldwide; Bobux and I-Walk have a strong celebrity following. Angelina Jolie, Halle Berry and Isla Fischer are firm fans of this eco brand. Classic designs with a
modern twist are available in a range of summer colours. I-Walk is available in sizes EU 16-24 including mary janes, sports shoes and sandals. Bobux Originals from new born to 27 months. Bobux is one of the fastest growing children’s brands in the UK. It has developed a strong following amongst mums looking for a shoe that is supportive yet flexible and that also allows a child’s foot to breathe. Hot little feet can remain cool whatever the weather. The highly competitive price is the icing on the cake. Contact Purple Crocodile, exclusive UK & Ireland distributors on 020 8543 1910 or email: enquiries@purpcroc.com.
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News
Fossil moves into footwear collections FOSSIL has announced the launch of new men’s and women’s footwear collections in selected accessory stores. The women’s line includes vintage inspired flats, boots, heels and wedges, while the men’s line features sport-court sneakers, casual pumps and evening styles. Scott Milden, Footwear for Fossil creative director, said: “Men’s and women’s footwear is a logical extension of the Fossil brand. “It connects Fossil and the consumer in an emotional transaction and completes the idea of a head-to-toe opportunity for us as a casual, full lifestyle brand.”
All the designs are hand crafted from full grain leather, nubuck and suede and features a variety of detailing, colour combinations and graphics. Jennifer Pritchard, president of the Fossil retail division, said: “We are very excited to launch the footwear collections. “Our store environment provides the perfect foundation for showcasing the breadth of Fossil products and is an excellent backdrop for the collections.” The new collections will be sold in Fossil Accessory stores nationwide and through the brand’s online shop as well as in selected department stores.
Retailer plans a campaign with edge By Louise Cordell EUROPEAN footwear retailer Humanic has teamed up with creative agency Story Worldwide for its autumn/winter 2009 campaign. ‘Are You Shoemanic?’ features the work of Vogue photographer Elizabeth Hoff and Armani stylist Peter Lux and will promote the brand across a variety of channels including TV, in store and online. Corinne Caddt, Story’s art director, said: “Our aim was to create a fashion forward campaign with a stylish and quirky edge, one that differentiates Humanic from its competitors and ensures that the brand becomes synonymous with the concept of shoemania.” The idea is to deliver messages in many different ways, rewarding customers with more content as they spend more time with the brand. Alegria is the latest new brand to be launched in the UK and Ireland by Silentnight Footwear. The designs proved popular at Moda in August and over 100 independent accounts have placed orders since. The shoes have a mild rocker outsole
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The campaign will include billboards, print adverts, TV advertising, store windows, point of sale displays and a new customer magazine. Online there will also be stop frame animation, a new fashion blog and an interactive game for customers. Lars Hemming Jorgensen, Story’s chief creative officer, said: “It is our job to convey Humanic’s unique story in an imaginative and compelling way. “We are therefore looking beyond the traditional idea of a single image and strapline – instead we want every point of contact to represent a good use of the audience’s time and persuade customers to take greater ownership of the Humanic brand. “It’s an ambitious project, but it embodies everything that we are about, storytelling and delivering engagement across all channels.” which produce a normal walking motion which still tones muscles and supports the feet and legs. They also feature an anatomically correct, interlocking foot bed with arch support which is created from latex and memory foam to provide a customised fit.
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Worry over high heel dress code EMPLOYERS are being asked to take a stand against the risks of wearing high heels in the workplace. The Society of Chiropodists and Podiatrists has tabled a motion at the 2009 Trades Union Congress highlighting the foot health problems these shoes can inflict on women’s feet. Many are forced to wear heels as part of employer dress code, which can lead to long term foot and back problems. Speakers at the conference labelled the practice sexist and said that employers should be compelled to carry out risk assessments on heels, which ‘should be replaced with sensible and comfortable shoes’ where they posed a risk. Eddie Saville, director of employment
relations, said: “This is a serious issue for women in the workplace, and we at the Society of Chiropodists and Podiatrists want to ensure women workers are never forced to wear high heels which we believe can lead to foot health problems in the short, medium and long term. “Workers should be able to wear the footwear that is appropriate to their occupation, working environment, and feet. “That means employers should ensure that the risk assessment they have to do by law includes risks to the feet.” A recent report from the TUC on Working Feet and Footwear estimated that around 80 per cent of the adult population have some form of foot problem.
It also revealed that around two million days are lost to the economy through sickness as a result of lower limb disorders. The motion states: “Feet bear the brunt of daily life and for many workers prolonged standing, badly fitted footwear and in particular high heels can be a hazard in the workplace. “Women workers should not be made to adhere to a dress code that can damage their feet and should have the choice to wear footwear that will not leave them prone to long term foot health problems. “In addition women should feel secure in the knowledge that their employers will support them in maintaining healthy feet.”
Advertisers Announcement
Padders moves with the times.... PADDERS is maintaining its reputation as a leading player in the comfort footwear market by moving with the times and responding to customer demand. The brand supplies over 1000 nationwide independent retailers with a wide range of men's and ladies shoes, designed with style, quality and fit in mind. Its latest range for spring/summer 2010 include a large selection of new styles as well as a strong core collection for ladies and men. Debby Cooper, design manager, said: “The Padders brand is renowned for comfort and quality and our aim for the future is to build on this, while developing new styles that are more design led and that appeal to a wider customer base. “We are lucky in that we have a lot of brand loyalty from people who already buy our shoes and we want to keep the balance between developing the core range in a way that appeals to them, as well as introducing new products to keep us ahead of the market.” The brand’s focus is on changing with the times and creating appealing products while maintaining the key Padders strengths and values. Its aim is to keep track of what customers want and respond to that as effectively as possible, including updating popular styles and keeping all designs as high specification as possible in order to deliver value for money. Debby added: “Our aim is to rejuvenate the brand by focussing on creating a selection of ranges that all come under the Padders umbrella, but allow us to target new audiences with a very tailored approach. “A recent success of this has been the spring/summer 2010 Pedalos range, which has achieved excellent forward sales. “Keeping the designs up to date involves everything from looking at upcoming trend predictions, to get an idea of what colour, leather finishes and detailing are going to be popular and to talking to our retailers to find out what has been selling well and listening to their feedback. “We also look at how our customers’ lifestyles change over time, what they want from their footwear and how we can best incorporate the traditions of comfort and value in the collection.” For more information contact Mike Rowe, Sales Director on +44 (0)1536 534976.
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Advertiser’s Announcement
Nature Inspires... NATURE inspires klaveness and wearers feel the difference. You know how it is. Everyone claims to have great shoes at affordable prices and it usually takes deeper inspection to see if this stacks up. We all look for integrity and value in products; it’s hard to describe but we know it when we see it. Clients know it because they feel the difference. Now take a good look at Klaveness footwear. “Our shoes have to fit the bill. We invest in the best technology and materials to make sure we can deliver.” You will hear that the company stands for something quite unique. Imagine the Nordic approach and you might feel, quite rightly, that this stands for pure and clean lines, carefully selected materials and superb design. The Scandinavian urban influence
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just in the right places - all are established design principles at Klaveness.
means you will see timeless, classic design and attention to detail, all combined with a sense of forward thinking and optimism.
With a strong following from Scandinavian consumers, Klaveness have developed fashionable footwear with guidance from foot specialists.
Whilst cherishing its Nordic roots, Klaveness is a modern international company employing around 150 persons with manufacture in Norway, Poland and Portugal and offices in Sweden and the UK.
This ensures that ‘healthy footwear’ features are built-in without compromising appearance.
To maximise comfort, the standard insole is designed to work in harmony with the sole unit, offering support and pressure cushioning just where it is needed.
“Our customers are sophisticated, mature consumers that demand the best in both comfort and style”
Shoes even feature removable insoles so that custom foot orthoses may be used.
This means that experienced podiatrists such as Jayne Evans are happy to recommend Klaveness footwear.
Winston added: “Klaveness has long been a household name in Scandinavia, offering a full range of comfortable footwear and a growing number of medical and custom-made solutions.
Winston Johnson, managing director of Klaveness UK, said: “Our customers are sophisticated, mature consumers that demand the best in both comfort and style. “They may be well travelled and appreciate what the world has to offer. “They expect to work hard and want to enjoy life to the full. “Our shoes have to fit the bill. We invest in the best technology and materials to make sure we can deliver.” This 52 year old company blends traditional know-how with the latest technology to fit the foot without compromise.
Jayne said: “It makes my job a lot easier when I can confidently recommend shoes that will look great as well as provide essential benefits for my clients. “In the past, clients were reluctant to use footwear that didn’t look good, even if I told them they would be helpful.” You will like the sound of - broad heels, firm heel counters and shock absorbing lightweight soles that flex
“We are now expanding our presence in the UK. “We are looking to support an increasing number of outlets – having tested our range in the UK with success over a couple of seasons.” For more information call: 0116 288 6633, e-mail: klavenessuk@btconnect.com or visit: www.klaveness.co.uk.
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Comfort Advertisers Announcement
MAKE your high heels ‘feel like heaven’ with new Footlogics insoles. Walking in high heels without pain and discomfort, who wouldn’t want that? Now you can, with new Footlogics insoles. With Footlogics ‘High Heel Comfort’ insoles you can wear the fashion shoes you like for as long as you like. You can work or party for hours without any foot pain. Footlogics insoles are a true innovation in high heel walking comfort. Walking in high heels means most of your body weight is placed on the front of your feet, causing the bones in your forefoot to collapse. This leads to pressure and friction on the ball of the foot, often causing a burning sensation as well as tired feet and legs. Developed by podiatrists, Footlogics insoles support the arch and forefoot and shift your bodyweight towards the heel. This greatly reduces the excess forces on the forefoot and restores your body balance. Footlogics prevents pain in the ball of the foot and helps relieve tired, aching legs. Footlogics insoles are made of special patented materials that provide cushioning and support. The insoles don’t take up a lot of room in the shoe and are barely noticeable. They are suitable for all types of fashion footwear including boots, sandals and low-heeled women’s shoes and an adhesive on the underside prevents the insole from sliding forward. Don’t let sore feet cramp your style - try Footlogics insoles - you will love them. To purchase on-line or for more information go to www.painfreewalking.co.uk. Natural relief from heel pain, knee pain and low back pain… Footlogics UK also have a range of orthotic insoles for regular shoes to help relieve heel pain, knee and lower back pain. Heel pain (plantar fasciitis) is the most common type of foot pain in the UK. Fortunately research has shown that in most cases heel pain can be fixed with some simple daily exercises and wearing a low-cost orthotic shoe insert, like Footlogics. Footlogics orthotics correct the feet to their natural position and so re-align the legs, knees and upper body, greatly improving body posture. In turn, this can help reduce or eliminate shin splints, knee pain and low back pain. Visit the website www.painfreewalking.co.uk for detailed information. Footlogics Orthotic Insoles are used and recommended by physiotherapists in the UK, as well as worldwide. For all trade enquiries please contact Will Munro, call: + 44 (0)1963 34184 or e-mail: info@painfreewalking.co.uk.
ANATOMIC and Co Footwear is getting ready to launch its best selling designs in the UK, with a new distribution strategy planned for 2010. The company already has customers in Europe, Asia, Australia, South America and Southern Africa and now plans to expand further. Moena Pimentel, the brand’s creative director, said: “It seems that people are looking for quality and this is what the brand is all about, a high profile concept using high quality full grain leather and the Anatomic Gel Technology.”
‘Red dot’ double for Alpina FOR the second year in a row Alpina has been honoured by an international panel of judges who awarded Alpina and Jure Miklavc Design Studio the prestigious 'red dot' award for the design of their innovative Binom footwear. Alpina is a recognised Slovene company manufacturing and marketing footwear. For its creative and technologically innovative footwear, it has received the 'red dot' design award for the second year in a row. One of the key features of Binom shoes is that they fit different foot shapes, as they are available in four different volumes for each size, and have a special insole which enables adjustments according to the height of the arch, and different volume adjustments for the left and right foot. In this respect, Binom is unique, and is the result of several years of studying the varying shapes of human feet and extensive
measurements. Findings have shown that the comfort of a shoe largely depends on how the shoe fits the area between the toes and the arch, an area called the metatarsus, which defines the width of the foot and the height of the arch. Before buying a pair of shoes, the customer's feet are first scanned with a laser, enabling them to purchase shoes which fit perfectly and provide perfect comfort. Binom casual footwear is available in several models for men and women. For more information visit: www.binomshoes.com or www.alpina.si, call: +3864 5158100 or fax:+3864 5158370.
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Comfort
Women put fashion over fit By Louise Cordell OVER a third of British women have bought shoes knowing they don’t fit, putting their health at risk in the process. A new study by the Society of Chiropodists and Podiatrists has shown that a love of fashion has left UK women with a range of serious foot conditions. It found that 80 per cent of them suffer from problems, including 15 per cent with bunions, a quarter with corns, 39 per cent have cracked heels and 19 per cent suffer from ingrowing toenails. Podiatrist Lorraine Jones said: “Foot health professionals have known for years that women are wearing shoes that don’t fit them properly, but I think these results will come as a surprise to the general public. “Unfortunately, many women are so used to buying badly fitting shoes
that it has become the norm. “They expect to have to ‘break in’ new shoes and have aching feet at the end of the day, and don’t realise that it doesn’t have to be that way.” The research also found that a fifth of men have bought footwear in the wrong size, and that despite the scale of the problem, 40 per cent of people who had suffered from foot problems have never sought medical advice. Lorraine added: “People don’t seek advice because they have come to expect these kind of issues with shoes, and also because many will just resort to over-the-counter treatments, which can actually just cause even more serious problems. “Another difficulty is that there is very little podiatry available on the NHS. “Funding urgently needs to be increased, because at the moment we are not able to treat people at an
early stage, meaning that the problem progresses and ends up much worse.” She points out that many fashionable high heels have no toe box and low front uppers. This means that to prevent the wearer stepping out of them, they have to be a tight fit – the average court shoe is actually a quarter of an inch narrower than the foot. If foot function is compromised like this, it also means that any predisposition to the development of conditions like bunions or hammer toe will be exacerbated, and speed up the development of the deformity. Lorraine believes that both retailers and individuals need to take responsibility for this problem and act quickly to prevent it from becoming even worse in the future. She added: “It is essential that shop fitting services are improved, but
Legero is launching its latest collection of sporty, functional shoes for spring/summer 2010. The casual designs feature a lightweight construction that can be worn year round in wet or dry weather thanks to their Gore-tex membranes.
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people need to think about these issues for themselves as well. “It is very hard for retailers, because there is a conflict between selling shoes that fit and shoes that will sell. “It is simply not in the majority of stores’ interest to stock low heeled lace ups – they need to have what the customers want to buy in order to survive. “But there are some very good shops with excellent fitting services and consumers should seek them out. “Assistants should be able to steer people in the right direction and update them on the shape and size of their feet - which change often due to various factors. “However, it is also important that assistants have been given the proper training before they give advice, because giving out bad advice is worse that giving no advice at all.”
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Performance
Gore-Tex introduce Two-year guarantee with new range of shoes new technology A NEW footwear technology from Gore-Tex has been launched at the industry show GDS. The technology, called Surround, provides breathability and waterproof protection and is being used in some 2010 collections. The design construction also has an ‘open’ sole, which allows buyers to see how the footwear functions. The range includes casual and business shoes for men and women as well as hard wearing children’s shoes. Surround provides ‘climate control’ for the foot which allows excess moisture and heat to escape through the upper show and the sole, while also providing waterproof protection. This is done with a Gore-Tex membrane which features over 1.4 billion micro-pores per square centimetre. Each pore is 20,000 times smaller than a water droplet, but 700 times larger than a moisture vapour molecule, meaning that moisture cannot penetrate from the outside but sweat produced by the feet can easily escape. The new designs have also undergone a series of tests before
hitting the market. These include the ‘wicking’ test, which finds out how much water can be absorbed by each individual component, from the leather to the sewing thread. This is done because materials that soak up water can transport moisture to the edge of the upper and possibly into the inside of the shoe. The test shoes are put into a walking simulator where they take 200,000 steps submerged in a bath of water – this corresponds to a 350km hike over wet grass or in a stream. They are also placed into a climate chamber and put on sweat drenched artificial feet in order to measure their breathability.
FOOTWEAR manufacturer Chatham is set to launch a new range of sailing and casual shoes which will be guaranteed for two years.
The brand’s spring/summer 2010 collection will include the new Enduro G2 range of men's and ladies shoes, which will all come with the full quality guarantee. Philip Marsh, marketing director, said: “We are taking a step into the
unknown by launching the Enduro G2, but we are dedicating to producing high quality products, so we are confident enough to offer the guarantee with this range.”
The designs in the collection will have rot proof threads and rust proof eyelets as well as being hand stitched on the last to a moccasin style construction.
High-viz footwear added to range MARKET leading running specialists Saucony are currently heavily promoting their ViZi-PRO apparel offering which combines technical apparel with high visibility colours and fabrics. The range which is already selling out consists of technical long-sleeves and a water-proof running jacket. To complement these lines, in early November the company will be adding high-viz footwear to the range. First up, Saucony's top-of-therange cushioning shoe, the ProGrid Triumph 7 will be available in ViZiPRO and then in time for the spring racing season, the lightweight Type A 3 in ViZi-PRO will launch in February. Both shoes are developments of current styles but have the added
feature of using the only colour approved by the American Standards Institute safety assessors. This product announcement comes hot on the heels of confirmation that Saucony are the exclusive footwear and apparel sponsor of the Brighton Marathon. The inaugural race, which takes place the week before London Marathon on 18 April 2010 is already sold out to the maximum of 12000 runners, making it the second largest marathon in the UK. For more details check www.saucony.co.uk or e-mail marketing@saucony.co.uk.
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News
The Chung Shi exercise shoe tones the legs, buttocks and stomach by working legs up to 257 per cent harder than traditional trainers. An inbuilt ‘pilates’ system which works by using a patented reflexology bar in the centre of the shoe and a 15 degree curved sole, helps to stimulate the use of neglected muscle groups and improve core stability. The shoes also help to reduce cellulite and varicose veins by increasing the body’s circulation while walking. New research from the University of Heidleberg in Germany has also shown that Chung Shi are an effective way to improve coordination after knee surgery.
Shoe shopping study A NEW study from YouGov has revealed the shoe purchasing habits of the British public. Research conducted on behalf of footwear brand Hotter Comfort Concept showed that 83 per cent of women in the UK take up to four pairs of shoes on a week long summer holiday and 33 per cent would take even more. After questioning over 2,000 people, the study also found that, despite the credit crunch, the public are not prepared to put price ahead of comfort when it comes to buying shoes. Consumers revealed they felt that comfort was four times more important than cost and six times more important than fashion.
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Secondary spend boost provided by shoe care demand By Louise Cordell
footwear.
INDEPENDENT retailers can use increased demand for shoe care products to boost their secondary spend according to the latest figures from retail suppliers Cherry Blossom.
“People are opting for modestly priced repairs rather than the much larger outlay required when purchasing a new pair of shoes.
The current economic downturn has resulted in a rise in people wanting to repair and refresh shoes that they already own, rather than splashing out on a new pair, and retailers should make this work to their advantage.
Dave suggests offering customers the option to make the most of the shoes they already own, as well as advising them on the best ways to keep their new purchases looking new for longer.
Dave Watkins, sales director, said: “There are very few silver linings to emerge from the credit crunch but there are areas of retail that can benefit from the harsh climate.
He added: “Shoe retailers and shoe repair outlets can take advantage of the current situation by displaying shoe care and repair options in store.
“All our data suggests that consumers are now looking to extend the life of their footwear rather than treating it as a disposable fashion item.
“Once consumers see just how effective these measures are, they will continue to use them, even when we come out of the economic doldrums.
“Only a few months into the economic downturn, shoe repairer Timpson reported a seven per cent increase in sales in their outlets as the general public look to preserve their
“I am confident that if outlets give these products the prominence they deserve they will provide a valuable income stream in these difficult economic times.”
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News
Wear your Wellies to Work day goes with a splash THE first ‘Wear Your Wellies to Work’ day has taken place with help from TV presenter Davina McCall. The initiative encouraged people from all over the country to wear wellington boots to work for a day to raise money for children’s charity Action Medical Research. Hundreds of companies took part and those who raised more than £75 are now being entered into a prize draw to win Davina McCall’s exclusive signed Big Brother wellies. Toby Tennant, Action Medical Research head of relationship fundraising, said: “Our Wellies to Work day was fabulous. Just about everyone in the office wore their wellies to work and some people even went out and bought a pair just for the occasion – we held a wellie wanging competition and had a three legged race. “People are already talking about next year's competition and we have plans to buy a trophy for next year’s winner. Action Medical Research has made tremendous medical breakthroughs in the past sixty years, and this has been funded purely by our fundraising activities so we are grateful to people for taking up the challenge.”
Davina McCall
Study evaluates shoe SKETCHERS have released the clinical case studies for their latest trainer style, Shape Ups shoes. The objective of the study was to evaluate the benefits of the design with regard to weight loss, body composition, glutei strength, lower back strength and endurance. The study has been released as part of a Sketchers marketing campaign to promote the new line of fitness footwear, with Shape Ups shoes as the flagship product. For the research, ten women were selected to wear a pair of the trainers daily, starting with 25 minutes a day, for a period of six
weeks. To measure the effects, their body weight, body composition, glutei strength and lower back endurance was recorded every two weeks. The results showed an increase in physical performance, strength and endurance with participants losing an average of 3.25 lbs, glutei strength increased by 41 per cent and lower back strength was increased by 37 per cent. The author of the report, Dr Gautreau, concluded that the participants would have gained further body weight and body composition benefits if the study had continued.
Levi Strauss acquisition LEVI Strauss and Co has officially acquired the DC Company. The two businesses have been involved in a long-standing partnership since 1987 and have built the Levi’s footwear and accessories collections in Europe, the Middle East and Africa. The current contract between the two was due to end in 2010, however an opportunity arose for Levi Strauss and Co to acquire
the DC Company. It is hoped this acquisition will build the business by combining the strengths of the two companies. The DC Company will continue to function as a separate business unit of Levi Strauss and Co, with the current operational structures. There will also be no change to the product lines for next season.
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Brand spotlight Kau London is the latest luxury footwear brand to hit the UK, brought all the way from New Zealand by designer Victoria Rezon. Out On A Limb found out more.
Hide and seek boots that are individual
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NEW brand Kau London offers a range of handcrafted boots made from cowhide and wool products from New Zealand. Victoria Rezon first came up with the idea while travelling, but came back to London to take the plunge and launch the company after demand for the products rocketed. She said: “While I was in New Zealand I came across a small manufacturer that was producing sheepskin boots and cow hide car seats. “I had never been one for sheepskin boots, but I loved the look of the cow hides and asked if they could make me some boots out of those instead. “They’d never had the request before – in 80 years in business – but agreed to give it a go. “When I went back to the UK they caused quite a stir – people would come up to me in the street asking where I got them – they were always so disappointed when I said they were from the other side of the world I knew I was on to something.” Once Victoria had made the decision to launch Kau Boots, she teamed up with the New Zealand manufacturers to come up with a range of designs. The aim was to create a bespoke collection and there are currently three different heights, seven colour options, two sole types and three linings on offer, allowing the buyer to pick and mix to create their ideal style. Taking all the different combinations into account, this means customers are left with over 750 different products to choose from. Every boot also features reinforced heel support, a removable cushioned sheepskin innersole and a shock ISSUE 55 OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2009
Victoria Rezon
absorber, as it was important to make them comfortable to wear as well as stylish. Victoria added: “I am coming up with new ideas constantly, and the manufacturers are able to combine them with their years of boot making experience. “I love the fact that no pair of boots is ever the same – every design will always be completely unique as each pair is made from an individually selected hide and that makes them extra special.” The brand’s website also offers an extra service for customers who want something even more personalised, providing boots tailored to an individual’s foot template for a perfect fit.
This also allows the company to cater for people with different sized or unusually wide or narrow feet – in fact, anyone who usually has problems getting boots that fit them. Kau London is still very new to the UK and the site went fully live at the beginning of September. The aim now is to introduce the brand to as many people as possible and start providing stock for boutiques around the country. Victoria added: “I think it is really important that we get the boots into stores as well as selling them over the internet because they are such a touchy-feely product – and if people can pick them up and try them on they can see how great they are for themselves.
“I also love the idea that, because every pair is different, in a store people could line up half a dozen pairs and then go home with the ones that they really fall in love with.” Plans are now also in place for a new slipper range, which will incorporate lots of different colours and styles in a similar way to the boots. Victoria added: “I’m keen to move forward because feedback so far has been great and there has been a lot of interest from retailers and consumers alike. “I really just want to get the Kau products on to as many people as possible, and the results will speak for themselves.”
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Sponsored by BLC Leather Technology Centre Ltd - www.blcleathertech.com
‘Heel failures’ can be costly IS your business aware of the potential risk and cost associated with the current fashion for high heeled shoes?
The stiletto design leads to extreme repeated stresses being imposed on the heel and backpart during walking.
There are recent documented cases of heel failures resulting in successful compensation claims.
During a normal walking cycle the heel will initially be pushed under the shoe as the tip of the heel comes into contact with the ground. The heel is then forced in the opposite direction as the forepart comes into contact with the ground and the weight is shifted forwards; the higher the heel, the higher the stress.
Stiletto design specifications vary. The heel needs to be high, tapered and thin with a tension pin running through it. It usually also has a top-piece which is 10mm or less across. Whilst this contributes to the aesthetics for the wearer, safety can be compromised.
simulates walking by subjecting the heel to repeated impacts and the heel attachment test. Failures can be due to incorrect choice of material and inaccurate design, construction and reinforcement issues. BLC can assist with all your physical and chemical testing needs for footwear. BLC also offers a comprehensive problem solving and diagnostic service for the footwear supply chain.
There are two critical tests to assure the safety of heels.
For further information contact Tracey Faulkner on tracey@blcleathertech.com or +44 (0) 1604 679967
The heel fatigue test which
Terminal with small footprint Specialists offering free NOW available from DED, the KS2010 series of touch screen terminals from Posiflex have been specifically designed for PoS environments that need a quiet, fan-free touch screen terminal that has a small footprint. The KS-2010 series features a 10.4 inch TFT screen so saves valuable counter top space in busy PoS environments. The KS-2010 series of touch screen terminals offers features that are way beyond those that the size of the terminal would suggest. Featuring an 800 x 600 SVGA screen, the standard RAM on the KS-2010 series is 256MB; an optional upgrade to 512MB is available or even 1GB if required.
With a VIA Eden 500 processor, operating system support on the KS-2010 series includes WePOS, Windows CE and Linux. Windows XP Pro is also supported, but it is recommended that the upgraded 1GB RAM be used in conjunction with this operating system. The KS-2010 series offers four serial ports and one LAN port for 10/100 T Ethernet, providing ease of integration into existing PoS systems. For more information call: 01797 320636, e-mail: sales@ded.co.uk or visit: www.ded.co.uk
analysis and review service SITEMAKERS – the ecommerce specialists, offer free website appraisals. We appreciate that retailers busy running a retail operation may not have time to analyse their own ecommerce site, or even understand all the technical elements that make a site work well. Sitemakers are now offering this analysis and review service free to retailers with existing sites. It is a free review covering all the
major elements of your ecommerce website with straightforward advice on how to improve your ranking and performance online. To get the benefit of this review all you need to do is go to www.sitemakers.co.uk/appraisal.
diarydates ISPO Winter Neue Messe München, 7-10 Feb 10 The international trade fair for sports equipment and fashion celebrates its 69th show and, with the full exhibition space booked up, are expecting record attendances.
Pure Olympia London, 14-15 February 2010 (www.purewomenswear.co.uk) A showcase of over 800 directional womenswear brands, young creative labels, footwear and accessory collection.
Moda Footwear NEC Birmingham, 21-23 February 2010 (www.moda-uk.co.uk) Moda will include a seminar programme which will be free of charge to all visitors and exhibitors. The Moda catwalk show will present an overview of the seasons trends, providing an insight into key looks.
GDS Messe Dusseldorf, Germany, 12-14 March 2010 (www.gds-online.com) Highlights will include high fashion labels from international brands and the children’s footwear marketplace. Other events will include fashion shows, trend presentations and trend vision.
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Business failure rate falls to lowest level in a year – research
Addition to adventure performance range HI-TEC has launched the latest design in its adventure performance footwear range – the V-Lite Trail Eruption HPi. The shoe features the ion-mask hydrophobic surface enhancement treatment pioneered by Hi-Tec as
well as eight different densities of EVA, meaning the midsole can correct the wearer’s running gait. This results in a more efficient stride pattern and less wobble effect on the joints, reducing long term injuries.
FOOTWEAR
THE UK business failure rate has fallen to its lowest level since September 2008, according to new research. The latest figures from Experian have revealed that 0.09 per cent of UK business failed during August this year, a significantly lower amount than the 0.11 per cent recorded in July 2008 and the lowest rate so far this year. In addition, results showed that the total number of business insolvencies has also fallen to its lowest so far in 2009 and there has been a slight improvement in the financial solidity of the UK business population. Rolf Hickman, managing director of pH, an Experian company, said: “This latest data is encouraging. “However, it is also important to remember that although the total number of insolvencies is close to the total number in the last recession, the insolvency rate is nowhere near as high. “The underlying business population has also been growing at an increasing pace, so this needs to be taken into account in order to gain a realistic picture of insolvencies in the
UK and the extent of any impact on the UK economy rather than simply looking at raw insolvency statistics.” The results showed that the North East region has seen the highest rate of business failures during August 2009 and it was also the area to see the highest increase in the number of insolvencies. However, the good news for small business was that those with five employees or less seemed to be the most resiliant, with low insolvency rates and a higher than average improvement in their financial stability. Rolf added: “Although it is too early to tell whether this is an indication of a more positive outlook, one thing is for sure: businesses are distinctly aware of the current environment and the need to be cautious in any business dealings. We have seen a significant increase in businesses monitoring the health of suppliers, customers and partners, as well as themselves, in order to ensure they do not suffer from the impact of another business becoming insolvent.”
RETAIL SOLUTIONS
TRAINING
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