Out on a limb

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News

Havana inspires latest Levi collection LEVI’S footwear and accessories SS09 collection has been inspired by the colourful backdrop of Havana. The Spring/Summer range includes shoes, belts and caps, which aims to combine strong brand heritage together with a vintage Cuban flavour. The collection is split into three ranges, ‘Sport’, ‘Urban’ and ‘City’. The Sport collection is linked to baseball, with its retro image and heritage links to South America. The best selling Levi styles have been re-designed to create a sporty mood using vibrant shades of green, blue and red; incorporating soft shoes with flat soles in vintage canvas. The Urban collection is inspired by

basketball and the bestselling retro hi-top Horse has been developed in new materials and finishes including new leathers and canvas, batik patterns and graphic prints. City is a premium collection offering classic shoes, but with cleaner designs, flatter soles, stitching, leather inserts, jean inspired rivets and longer last shapes. Next season’s women’s collection includes more feminine and sexy styles including ballerinas and colourful trainers with pretty detailing. The City collection has high-heels and wedges with a mix of canvas and leather details together with

Landlord in appeal over stealth tax By Louise Cordell A RETAIL landlord has appealed to the government to scrap a stealth tax on empty property which he says will bankrupt him. Max Allen, a Kent-based businessman who owns several shops and office units in Chatham, says he will pay £33,000 a year under the new rates system, which will force him either to sell up or file for bankruptcy. From April this year business rate relief on empty property was cut, with the government claiming it would reduce rents and increase property supply. While the British Property Federation, trade body for the property industry, has been campaigning nationally for the relief to be reapplied, many other local businesses may face bankruptcy as growth slows. Local councils will also be hit by the tax, paying thousands of pounds to central government for any property they have that is vacant.

Meanwhile, the BPF has received reports of dozens of buildings being demolished as landlords seek to minimise the financial impacts to their businesses. While the government states that the reforms will help small businesses, Mr Allen claims the opposite is true. He said: “I face a stark choice: sell the investment, which, in the current world climate, is worth very little; or hold on in the hope things improve, and risk a penniless retirement or bankruptcy if my savings run out.” Over 35 MPs have now signed a Commons motion calling for the government to re-apply the relief. Eric Pickles MP, shadow secretary of state for Communities and Local Government, said: “The changes are nothing less than a £1 billion rise in stealth taxes for local firms. “At a time when the property market is so fragile, these tax rises threaten to discourage development and regeneration.”

new heels, fabrics and buckles for a vintage look.

The collection is split into three ranges, ‘Sport’, ‘Urban’ and ‘City’. The Sport collection is linked to baseball, with its retro image and heritage links to South America.

Designer scores a Gola BRITISH sport brand Gola have announced a men’s and women’s footwear collaboration with French haute couture designer Christian Lacroix. The Gola by Christian Lacroix collection for SS09 takes its inspiration from the designer’s house pattern ‘Torero Cape’ and includes two men’s and two women’s styles. The designs aim to offer a twist on classic sport footwear by incorporating elements and techniques signature to the French fashion house, such as rich leathers, bold colour palettes, intricate embroidery and embossing. The collection will be sold globally through selected stores in 20 countries as of January 2009. Christian Lacroix said: “In a way, trainers are to the 21st century what shimmering ties and multicoloured vests were to the dandies of the 19th century – a distinctive sign, a personal signature. “That is the perspective from which I prefer to view fashion, rather than that of uniformity. Given carte blanche by Gola, I took the opportunity, with much gratitude, to bring the modernity of a contemporary and popular brand together with the timeless baroque of an iconic design of our Couture House: the embroideries of a torero cape.” Donna Hill, Gola Classics PR and marketing manager, said: “It has been really exciting to work with such an industry respected name.”

Geox opens three more UK stores GEOX has opened a further three standalone stores in the UK, following the success of its flagship shop in Covent Garden. The new premises are in Manchester, Reading and London’s King’s Road and follow the same interior design concept as the established stores.

The new stores are in addition to Geox’s current standalone stores in Bluewater and Belfast and all of the six Geox standalone stores in the UK will carry a complete assortment of footwear for men, women and children, featuring the newest collections of its premiere footwear

and breathable apparel. Geox now has its sights set on increasing its presence in the UK market, where sales grew by more than 113 per cent between 2006 and 2007, and expectations for 2008 are high.

Look back to the shows ... AS the show season draws to a close, this issue we take a look back at the biggest industry events and how successful they have been in an increasingly difficult market place. Most have claimed increased or maintained visitor numbers and exhibitors have been reporting that buyers, while cautious, are still keen to spend money on the right products. The brands benefiting most from this new mood seem to be those offering a longer lasting and better quality product, with customers looking for long term investments over throwaway fashion. In our Business Spotlight and Retail Review we hear from some independent store owners who have turned this trend to their advantage, by providing classic styles from designer names or turning to bespoke fashion to attract high spending clients. We also take a look at some of the biggest footwear names from around the world to see how they have found success in the UK market place. Meanwhile, the most in demand designer shoes have hit the headlines again as their positions in the CoolBrands 2008/09 list are finally revealed. Manolo Blahnik moved up ahead of Jimmy Choo for the first time this year as they were placed fifth and sixth respectively among the fashion brands. Also placed in the top twenty were Converse, Christian Louboutin, Marc Jacobs and Paul Smith. The definitive list of the UK’s coolest brands, voted for by over 2,500 members of the public and the CoolBrands council, aims to set a benchmark for brand success and celebrate the most stylish and desirable products around.

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Contents COVER STORY

Issue 49 October/November 2008 For the love of nature Tribute to the ruby slipper

NEWS

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Sales Tony Barry - Sales & Marketing Director Beverley Green - Sales Manager (bg@whpl.net)

Karrie-Anne Nowell - Sales Executive (kn@whpl.net)

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Advertising Contacts Tel: 01226 734333 | Fax: 01226 734477

REVIEW

Round-up of this season’s shows

SPOTLIGHT

Gerard’s a market leader

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RETAIL REVIEW

Alex’s first and Last ...

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KIDS

Just booti-ful ...

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Editorial Contacts Tel: 01226 734694 | Fax: 01226 734705 Email: lcordell@whpl.net

ACCESSORIES

Turning turtle!

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Design & Production

Editorial Andrew Harrod - Group Editor Judith Halkerston - Group Deputy Editor Nicola Hyde - News Editor Louise Cordell - Editor Christina Eccles - Reporter Mary Ferguson - Reporter Lyndsey Smith - Reporter

Stewart Holt - Studio Manager (sth@whpl.net)

ACCESSORIES

A great season ahead

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Kyle Wilkinson - Design & Production (kw@whpl.net)

Circulation 01226 734695 (24 hour hotline) Email: circulation@wharncliffepublishing.co.uk

The Autumn/Winter 2008-09 collection from Bisgaard AARHUS, the ‘smallest city in the world’, is a delightful Danish town overlooking glorious sandy beaches. This area, shown by ancient beads discovered throughout the region to be the original home of the Vikings, represents the true heart of Danish culture, where art and design meet up with numerous musical activities for exceptional results. The town faithfully testifies to the country’s reputation of being, as recently defined by Unesco, ‘the happiest country on Earth’, thanks also to a commitment to reducing atmospheric pollution and a widespread use of wind power. Complying with a love for the environment and nature, Aarhus is also home to the Bisgaard shoe manufacturing company set up by children’s feet experts, Marianne Bisgaard and Henrik Thomsen. In fact, the brand pays great attention to a use of natural materials, flanked by the

latest interesting technological innovations; the company, which currently distributes brand products in more than 15 countries and in approximately 400 shops, is steadily expanding. The Bisgaard collection for Autumn/Winter 2008-09 is distinguished by excellent materials, supple leathers and virgin wool linings, rubber soles and some innovative products, including Sympatex for guaranteed breathability, and undeniable product quality is matched by the equally elevated design of the original creations. The company provides shoes, ankle and heavy duty boots and gym shoes, to suit all clothing styles, both casual and elegant. The colour palette ranges from deep purple to petrol blue and silver, without forgetting the more traditional browns and reds. Bisgaard has also been delighted by the support of Her Royal

Crown Princess Mary who enjoys the brand together with her two children Prince Christian and Princess Isabella. And so, backed by enthusiasm, enterprise and expertise, Bisgaard continues to serve ‘little big citizens all around the world’. For more details contact: 07967 560633 e-mail: franck.vanhuizen@ntlworld.com or visit www.vanhuizenagencies.co.uk



News

Gola teams up with eBoy for collection GOLA Classics, the original British sports brand, has joined forces with German pixel art collective eBoy for a new collaboration. eBoy takes its influences from various sources including pop culture, Lego, computer games, topical issues and toy commercials. Its unique style is a combination of 3D illustrations filled with structures, robots, cars, guns and girls, which has gained it a cult status and a following with graphic designers worldwide.

a selection of bags for both men and ladies. Designs feature ‘city’ options from eBoy’s city themes and eBoy’s signature ‘Eater’ character. Materials include a mix leather and canvas across a variety of high and low tops and the collection will be sold globally through selected stores.

Donna Hill, PR and marketing manager, said: “The Gola by eBoy collaboration is an exciting development as eBoy’s vibrant pixel graphic designs perfectly complement Gola’s ethos for colourful funky footwear design.

Bid to find Top 50 in industry ... By Louise Cordell UK-BASED footwear manufacturers are being urged to take part in a countrywide campaign to identify the top 50 skilled people in the fashion and textiles industry. The ‘Behind the Seams’ campaign has been launched by Skillfast UK to draw attention to the unsung heroes of the fashion and textiles trade. It aims to bring recognition to those whose creative talents, technical ability and time-served craftsmanship goes into producing successful businesses and international brands. It is also hoped that the campaign will highlight the need to recruit and train a minimum of 40,000 new employees over the next five years, to replace those leaving through retirement. Linda Florance, Skillfast UK chief executive, said: “There are 79,000 fashion and textiles enterprises in the UK, many of them fantastic small companies, which may not be

“The eBoy team has been great to work with, this has been a real team project as we’ve used the key attributes of each brand and fused them together with fabulous results.”

household names, but which create exceptional products, using highlyspecialised techniques. Behind the Seams will celebrate the skilled individuals who are the backbone of our sector, and we will use the results of the campaign to lobby politicians for more support to develop the skills of the next generation of employees.” UK based footwear companies can nominate an employee for a Behind the Seams Award online, at www.skillfast-uk.org/bts where they will be asked to explain in a hundred words, why their employee is a hidden hero when it comes to skills. The top 50 nominees, plus their employer, will then be invited to receive their award at a major event in London, attended by key politicians and fashion figures. Linda added: “We know there are some great people working in footwear production and it would be great to see some of their skills celebrated alongside the UK’s best.”

New campaign for Crocs CROCS has announced the appointment of Feather Brooksbank to handle its media planning and buying in the UK. As one of the fastest-growing brands in the world, until now Crocs has mainly relied upon word of mouth, free publicity and celebrity endorsement to drive its success in the UK.

The new range includes three men’s and three women’s footwear styles and

A new advertising campaign has now launched promoting the summer range with women’s magazines and press supplements, and a second will follow with the autumn/winter range later in the year. The brand also recently opened a store in Manchester to add to its existing stores in London and Derby.

Fashion week’s tribute to the ruby slipper STUART Weitzman has unveiled the shoe he has designed as part of the Wizard of Oz Ruby Slipper Collection at Saks Fifth Avenue. He was one of a group of world class designers who were asked to re-imagine the iconic ruby slippers as part of September’s Fashion Week in New York, which was themed to mark the 70th anniversary celebration of the famous film. After being shown at a series of exhibitions the exclusive collection will be auctioned off in

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2009 with the proceeds benefiting the Elisabeth Glaser Pediatric AIDS Foundation. Karen McTier, Warner Bros’ executive vice president of domestic licensing and worldwide marketing, said: “The Wizard of Oz is a quintessential and endearing story that has touched countless people all over the world during the last 70 years. “We are proud to be the stewards of this timeless classic and are excited to share with fans the beautiful and fun modern interpretations of Dorothy’s Ruby Slipper with this exciting new collection.” Other designers who produced a contemporary version of the shoe

included Alberta Ferretti, Betsey Johnson, Christian Louboutin, Diane von Furstenberg, Jimmy Choo, L.A.M.B. by Gwen Stefani, Manolo Blahnik, Moschino, Roger Vivier and Sergio Rossi. Pamela Barnes, CEO and president of the Elizabeth Glaser Pediatric AIDS Foundation, said: “We are absolutely delighted to be a part of this reimagining of the Ruby Slippers – these iconic fashion images that also represent the power of positive thinking. “We are certain that the Ruby Slipper Collection will inspire the hearts and imaginations of the next generation as we work together to combat HIV/AIDS around the world.”


News Krispy Kreme has created some unique living footwear – the world’s first grass flip flops. The shoes were designed to help stressed out workers instantly relax after a survey revealed that 81 per cent of people feel better after a walk in the park. The flip-flops take up to three weeks to grow and if they are watered regularly the shoes can remain in season for over four months. Katie McDermott from Krispy Kreme said: “There’s currently a lot of uncertainty in

Humanitarian award for designer Kenneth By Louise Cordell KENNETH Cole has been presented with the Humanitarian Designer Award at the Islands of the World Fashion Week. Owen Bethel, president of Mode Îles, founder and organisers of the event, said: “In keeping with the event’s focus on the global issues of the education of youth and poverty alleviation, it was felt that no other fashion designer personified so explicitly the concern for these issues through their creative integration in his designs and marketing initiatives. “His innovative approach to addressing and drawing attention to the issues is both outstanding and poignant.

“Mr. Cole took the bold step as a vanguard in the fashion industry and essentially turned his label into an effective educational tool on the scourge of HIV/AIDS, calling everyone to action in the fight against the pandemic. “He has also stood out in the fight against poverty with his initiatives in the inner city of New York, allowing both his label and stores to be used without reservation in getting the message across.” In 2007 the New York stores served as a distribution point for the first ever city-sanctioned condoms, commonly known as the NYC Condom, in the United States of America. The launch of this citywide condom

initiative was paralleled with the release of a new line of tee shirts and boxer shorts designed by Kenneth Cole. Each contained a condom-size pocket and a woven label with the tagline written by Kenneth Cole and reading: “Safety Instructions: This Garment And its Contents Should Be Worn Whenever Conceivable.” In 2005 he was instrumental in the launch of the “We All Have AIDS” public service promotional campaign during World AIDS Day. Mr Bethel added: “By this selection we have set the standard high for those designers who would wish to follow in being considered for the award, a search that will certainly be worldwide going forward.”

New bridal shoe collection is crystal clear RAINBOW Club has announced the launch of Couture, a new bridal shoe collection. Designed in-house by Diane Hassall, whose expertise includes a period spent training with Jimmy Choo, each of the ten styles in this capsule collection caters for brides who want elegance, style, fashion and comfort. Every design is constructed from Italian silk satin, with Swarovski crystals appearing as

Lacour

buckles, trims and decoration. Another crystal is also fitted into the Couture logo on the sole of each shoe, which can be seen only when the bride kneels at the altar. Finally, every style can be hand coloured, either to match a wedding dress or to turn the bridal shoe into an evening shoe for use after the big day. The range will be available from the beginning of October through stockists or the Rainbow Couture website.

Santi

the city so what better way to escape the concrete jungle than by slipping on a pair of grass flip-flops and walking around in your own mobile meadow. “We cheer people up every day with our doughnuts, but hopefully by providing them with their own part of park life too we’ll be able to bring a sense of natural calm to stressed-out workers.” The free-range footwear is currently being given out to London commuters with a view to nationwide distribution.

New trade fair targets India’s industry A NEW footwear trade fair is being launched to target India’s growing industry. The organiser of a number of Hong Kong based leather and accessories trade fairs is to launch its first event in the country, aiming to tap into India’s $5bn footwear market, which is growing at around ten per cent a year. APLF Ltd is introducing the Footwear Materials Manufacturing and Technology Fair, which will take place in New Delhi in May 2009. The event will be aimed at manufacturers of footwear, leather and non leather garments, handbags and travelware, as well as designers, brand owners and product developers. It is hoped that the new fair will create a platform for both Indian and foreign manufacturers to keep abreast of the latest trends in the manufacture of footwear from design through to the finished product, and will also create a bridge between the footwear manufacturers and the component producers. Over 50 members of the Indian Footwear Components Manufacturers Association have agreed to participate and there will also be exhibitor delegations from Brazil, China, Hong Kong, Italy, Pakistan and Taiwan. The fair is being organised in association with the Indian Footwear Components Manufacturers Association and the Council for Leather Exports.

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News

Show round-up

by Louise Cordell

what? Moda, where? Birmingham NEC when? August

More brands, more buyers ...

what? Pure, where? Olympia, London when? August

Downturn fails to hit show’s visitor figures THE largest August Pure London to date has reported a two per cent increase of visitor figures on last year’s show, despite worries of a retail downturn. Exhibitors reported a confident mood among buyers and many of the 800 brands who exhibited received strong orders from both new and existing customers. The show saw 220 new brands exhibiting, with 80 choosing to launch their collection at the event. The accessories and footwear section also increased by 28 per cent in floor space with some new arrivals which were popular with both buyers and exhibitors. It is now hoped that February’s Pure Spirit will continue to grow and it will contain two specially dedicated sections for men’s and women’s collections. Also new in February 2009, Pure London will see the launch of two additional sections.

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Pure Premium will aim to offer the ultimate luxury buying experience, showcasing international designer collections, directional brands and high end fashion; and Ethical Pure offering stylish and on-trend clothing, footwear and accessory collections. The Ethical section will be launching in response to demand from buyers for more fashion with a conscience. Alex Willumsen, sales manager for Envirosax in the UK said: “Pure London is packed with inspirational clothing, shoes and fashion accessories, and it was gratifying to see how our relatively small display of Eco shoppers provoked such a big reaction. “Most exciting for us was that 90 per cent of the orders we took were from new stockists. “We’re even more excited about Pure London next year and will be taking part in the Ethical section.”

MODA Footwear has reported more brands and more buyers at August’s show. The event’s strongest brand line up so far, including new names CAT, Lambretta and Patagonia was matched by a three per cent increase in attendance. Liz Lawley of Base London said: “As first time exhibitors at Moda Footwear we were very pleased with the quality and wide geographical spread of visitors. “We were able to meet with existing customers as well as building relationships with new stores, so both our objectives were very well covered.” Moda Footwear will now be introducing a new layout for February 2009 which will see the event divided into five zones, Essential, Life, Boutique, Express and Kids. Event director Nick Cook said: “The growth of Moda Footwear over recent seasons has meant that we now play host to the biggest names across all types of footwear, with more brands looking to take part each season. “In order to move the show forward, however, we felt that it was time to introduce clearly defined zones within the event.” Essential will host mainstream and comfort brands, Life will bring together casual, unisex and lifestyle names, Boutique will be dedicated to women’s fashion lines, whilst Express will be the sourcing ground for in-season designs. Finally, Kids will bring together the

event’s line-up of kids’ footwear labels. Nick added: “As well as making more sense of the show for both buyers and our existing exhibitors, the new layout will also increase our floor space and allow us to bring some major new names into the show. The last exhibition had what we think was our strongest brand list so far, but buyers can expect an even stronger line-up in February next year.”

what? GDS where? Düsseldorf when? September

New concepts go down well THE new concepts and design behind the Düsseldorf shoe fair duo, GDS and Global Shoes, have been received well by both trade and industry. The show has reported over 33,000 visitors to the grounds, with most agreeing that the reorganised layout improved and increased business. Visitor numbers equalled those of last year’s show, proving that the event has remained popular, despite the current difficult market situation. Werner Matthias Dornscheidt, CEO and president of Messe Düsseldorf, said: “In the run-up to the trade fair we were very anxious to see how well the new concepts would go down with the market. “At the end of the day the intense efforts undertaken over the past few months have more than paid off. “The positive response across the board shows that GDS and Global Shoes have taken a further step in the right direction.”

Almost one in two visitors to GDS, and 55 per cent of Global Shoes visitors came from abroad, from countries including Italy, France, Israel, Poland and the UK. Fritz Terbuyken, board member of ANWR, one of Europe’s largest purchasing cooperatives, said: “The situation in German and European shoe retailing is anything but relaxed these days. We were therefore all the more pleased with the positive mood to be felt across the exhibition halls. “The fashion statement of GDS was right to the point, the programme of accompanying information events an asset for every retailer although many of them still have to get used to the new ‘routing’. “It is good to see that many retailers have used GDS again as an information and order platform. “After all, transparency is now key for retail. And GDS has explained the coming season very well.”


News

New trainers get tough ... By Louise Cordell UK GEAR has joined forces with the British Army to launch two training shoes designed to deal with some of the world’s harshest environments. The new styles have been designed and developed in association with the Army Physical Training Corps who ensured the PT-03 Desert, a tough sandproof running shoe, survived final wear testing in the extreme heat of Afghanistan and the PT-03 Winter waterproof running shoe was put through its paces in Norway. David Hinde, founder of UK Gear, said: “At UK Gear we build our performance footwear to be tough and that’s why we develop our products in association with some of the most physically demanding people on the planet, the British Army Physical Training Corps. “These elite fitness professionals are involved in every stage of the development of our products and test them in some of the harshest conditions on earth. “Only when the Army have approved them do we consider our products ‘built to survive’.” The PT-03 Desert is built on a

THE British Footwear Association has announced a new member package as part of a strategy to upgrade and increase its services to members. A team of consultants has been put together to assist in a number of key areas such as technical and production, ethical issues and direct marketing – three key areas that have been identified by members where they need more assistance.

uniquely formulated midsole which delivers durability and shock absorption in extreme heat.

Richard Kottler, BFA CEO, said: “The combined impact of the current debate on anti-dumping and cost increases from the Far East - and the need to keep ahead in the supply chain is putting increased pressure on footwear importers to up their game on technical innovation and finding new production sources.

The shoe also features a tough sandproof upper with optional detachable gators which protect the feet, together with a heat resistant gum outsole and a bio-flexible underfoot bruise plate. The PT-03 Winter has been designed to deliver durability and shock absorption in wet and extreme low temperatures. It features a tough waterproof upper

and an abrasion resistant cold-grip outsole together with the bio-flexible underfoot bruise plate to give the best performance.

Bid to put best foot forward for women worldwide NEW Zealand footwear company Kumfs and AUT University have embarked on a new project which aims to improve shoe comfort for women worldwide. A collaboration between the two is hoping to unlock the secrets behind what makes a woman’s shoe comfortable. Professor of podiatry Keith Rome, who has gone to AUT from the UK, and Professor Peter McNair, director of AUT’s Health and Rehabilitation Research Centre, are carrying out the research for Kumfs.

Association unveils new package

The project involves exploring shoe comfort and ultimately developing a new shoe insert. Andrew Robertson, Kumfs’ managing director, said: “As a New Zealand owned company that has achieved international success based on the original, high quality footwear we make, we’re pleased to be driving further innovation in this area via our partnership with AUT. “While women typically wear footwear for many hours every day, it is surprising how little research internationally has gone into the

design and shape of shoes to ensure that they provide maximum comfort for the wearer.” Professors Rome and McNair have now completed an initial literature review and will be in the product development phase for the next 12 months. Mr Robertson added: “We anticipate that at the end of the research phase Kumfs and AUT will have developed a world-leading design prototype that will significantly enhance the comfort women experience when they purchase our footwear.”

“To this end the BFA have put together a team of five consultants who have proven abilities and who individually specialise in the Far East, South America, India, Eastern Europe and Southern Europe. “To meet the needs of a rapidly growing number of companies who are exploring home shopping, ecommerce and other direct to consumer sales channels we are working with a different group of highly qualified consultants who have practical experience in all of these areas. “The consultants work with the member companies to explore the opportunities, the pitfalls, the costs and the brand development and we anticipate that they will be busy over the coming months. “These services which were introduced very recently have had immediate take up and positive feedback from our members.”

New partnership announced GEOX has announced a strategic partnership with Belle International for exclusive distribution in China. The new partnership aims to establish Geox as a leading casual footwear brand in the Chinese market opening over 200 Geox point of sales by 2010 and also building brand awareness through consistent investments in advertising and promotion. Mario Moretti Polegato, Geox founder and chairman, said: “Today is an important day for our global expansion strategies. “Through the cooperation with Belle International, the leading shoe retailer in China, Geox will introduce its innovative products to customers who love fashion and comfort for their feet. “As millions of consumers have

chosen Geox for themselves and their families, I am confident that many Chinese will appreciate our products.” The executive director of Belle International, Yu Ming Fang, confirmed that he had high hopes for the new partnership. He said: “People are becoming more demanding on the technological and health aspect of shoes due to the rising living standard. “There is great potential for the development of the leisure segment in the shoes market. “Belle aims at bringing outstanding, high quality shoes product to the market and Geox is a brand with great innovation. “Through our strong national distribution network and services,

Belle now brings the high quality of Geox shoes to the health and quality conscious consumers.”

Mr Polegato and Mr Yu Ming Fang

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business spotlight After over 20 years in the industry, Spice has been named the UK’s Best Women’s Shoe Shop in the Drapers Footwear Awards. Managing director Gerard Levy talks to Out On A Limb about what it takes to keep customers happy.

How Gerard went from Camden market to the best in the land ... SPICE has been run as a family business since 1985 and – after starting out selling plimsolls in Camden Lock Market – is now home to a wide range of luxury designers and high street labels. An exclusive footwear range, Spice London, was also added to its shelves in 2005 to celebrate 20 years in business. Managing director, Gerard Levy, said: “The store has changed a lot since I took over 15 years ago. We used to stock a fairly general range but I wanted to focus on one key look and make that our trademark. Now I think we have achieved that and what we stock is about style rather than price structure. “We have high end designers like Paul Smith, but also a lot of more affordable options.” There are now two Spice outlets in London, the original premises in Primrose Hill and a second in Islington, which opened in 2004. Gerard puts their success down to knowing the target customer well, so there is always

something they want in stock. He said: “We were very proud to win the Drapers award. We know our products and we know our customers and we stick to that – I think that is very important for a business. “We also want our staff to be knowledgeable so they can offer people advice about what will suit them and their lifestyle.” Despite Spice’s success, Gerard has also experienced the difficulties faced by any independent retailer. With shoes getting cheaper and a lack of diversity making competition more fierce, there is increased pressure to make the right choices. He added: “Business is okay at the moment – it has been better, but I think this is the case for almost everyone at the moment. ”Last year was fantastic, and we are only a tiny bit down on that, so I am pretty pleased. I’m also very optimistic about the winter, as that is always a good time for us. ”At the end of the day I think most people want quality, and we have always catered for that market and been successful.

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”We are also lucky to have a very loyal customer base – we have people that have been coming in ever since we first opened, and are now bringing their kids. They come to us first and only go somewhere else if they can’t find what they want.”

Gerard now plans to take the Spice brand one step further and create a new range that will be sold wholesale as well as in the store. He is currently collaborating with a designer in order to produce a new women’s line within the next year. He added: “We have been very successful, so most people might think that the obvious next step is to open a third store, but I am very aware that this might alter the nature of the business and I don’t want to risk losing quality in any area. Instead I want to create something that is completely tailormade for our customers. “The designs will be retro and contemporary but very wearable. “We still have a lot of research to do before the launch, but I am optimistic we will have a collection of ten to 11 designs ready for autumn/winter 2009.”

Above: Gerard Levy with the award and below: Spice store front and interior.


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Platform Europe Ltd Platform Europe Ltd’s design team is based in the UK, however, our workshop, warehouse and transport are all based in Dusseldorf. This enables us to react quickly to individual exhibitors's needs with no expensive transportation and accommodation costs. Team members are fluent in English and German, so there is no communication breakdown.

www.jobsinfootwear.com About Me Jack Brown Footwear Consultancy Services

Jack Brown Footwear Consultancy Services 22 Moxon Way Ashton-in-Makerfield Wigan Lancs WN4 8SW T: 07887 625827 E: jbfootwear@aol.com

Thirty years of footwear experience employed by some of the UK’s leading footwear brands and companies; K Shoes / Clarks, Peter Black, Intertek Testing Services, Scroll Footwear, Bereau Veritas Consumer Product Services...An in depth knowledge of shoemaking, shoe fitting, QA systems and procedures, inspections, factory audits,testing, returns analysis, proactive quality assurance and reactive problem solving, legislative requirements...and a whole lot more!


Sponsored by BLC Leather Technology Centre Ltd - www.blcleathertech.com

Merchandising seminars for independents

Student of the Year winner Jan Treasure

Jan Treasure of Buskins shoe shops in Nailsworth and Stroud in Gloucestershire received her award from SSF president Lesley Waddy after beating 45 other students to the top prize. Jan started working at the family shoe store in May 2006 and, after seeing people suffering with badly fitting footwear, she and shop owner Diana Stiles realised the need for information and education. She said: “There are so many avenues to buy shoes nowadays, but very few offer a professional fitting service, it seemed irresponsible not to learn as much as we could. “Not having studied for 35 years I was slightly concerned that I would be able to pursue the course successfully, but my concern and

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non-clients shows that many independents do not achieve viable margins and many have at least 20 weeks’ worth of cover.

Retail Technology Limited, in association with the Independent Footwear Retailers Association and Malcolm Newbery Management Consultants, are putting on the events to help smaller retailers gain professional merchandising skills.

“This equates to nearly a stock-turn of two.

The objective of the seminars is to show what reports and figures are essential for independents to look at on a weekly, monthly and seasonal basis and why.

Jan wins Student of the Year award THE Society of Shoe Fitters have announced the winner of their Student of the Year Trophy.

A SERIES of merchandising seminars aimed at independent footwear stores are set to take place in November.

There will also be demonstrations of the latest tools used widely by multiples to put retailers back in charge of good stock management.

determination overcame this and I am delighted at my achievement. “We enjoyed both the written work and the practical workshops which were relaxed and informative.

Eugenio Leijten of Retail Technology Limited said: “We have installed numerous stock management systems throughout the UK and Ireland.

“We also had the added bonus of a grant from Skillfast through the ‘Women in the Workplace Scheme’ who recognise the importance of the SSF specialised training.

“Now we need to make sure that these retailers are able to properly interpret the information the system provides to achieve much better results.

“Both Diana and I find it quite remarkable that anyone can sell footwear without any prior knowledge of the foot, its development, footwear construction or fitting.

“Our research amongst clients and

“Bearing in mind how many people have leg, back, neck and hip problems often attributed to ill-fitting footwear, it is surprising that the government does not insist that staff are properly trained, which would save the NHS thousands of pounds annually and keep people active.”

“This severely inhibits the flexibility the retailer has in offering the consumer products they demand. “Too many in stock of those that don’t sell and too few of those that do! “Our success depends on our customers’ success and we have been preparing for these seminars for over a year.” Malcolm Newbery is an industry specialist management consultant working in fashion retailing and the clothing, footwear and accessories industries. As well as consulting, Malcolm teaches buying and merchandising at the London College of Fashion and has also lectured at Trent University. He said: “We are excited about working together with IFRA and Retail Technology as we believe that our simple, yet well thought out approach will make a huge difference to independents.”

United for footwear showcase LUXURY footwear and accessories brand Oliver Sweeney has teamed up with bespoke furniture makers Restall Brown and Clennell, to showcase the new Autumn/Winter collection in the flagship store on New Bond Street. To coordinate with Oliver Sweeney’s British heritage style, RBC craftsmen have created unique bespoke designs and

classic pieces with a contemporary twist. The furniture is made using woods and veneers and has been upholstered in red velvet to complement the new cherry sunburst sole units of the Autumn/ Winter footwear collection. The luxury furniture will now be displayed in store, alongisde the designers latest range, for two months.

Company is on the move ...

Three appointments

RIEKER has moved to a new technologically advanced head office in Market Harborough, Leicestershire.

integrated with the AC system, to improve energy efficiency by reducing the need for heating and air conditioning.

The construction materials used include glass, steel and composite cladding which save hundreds of tonnes of CO2 from entering the atmosphere, when compared with a concrete or masonry structure of equivalent size.

Rieker also works closely with the National Forest on carbonoffsetting initiatives and supports a programme of walking festivals and charity walks and runs, which encourage local people to get up on their feet and out and about in their natural surroundings, often to raise

START-RITE has announced three new appointments to its national sales team: Pip McFadyen has joined the company as business manager for London, Suffolk and Norfolk and has considerable experience of the footwear industry having previously worked with brands such as Ecco, Rockport and Josef Seibel. Ben Waldren is the new business manager for the Midlands, South West of England and Wales and joins from apparel supplier Canterbury Rugby. Finally, the new local representative for retailers in the South East and Essex is Glenn Colman, who has worked with brands including Fila and Perry Ellis.

A heat recovery system is also ISSUE 49 OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2008

money for a good cause. Ewen Campbell, managing director of Rieker UK, said: “Our new head office will not only help to improve efficiency and realise our ambitious business targets in the UK market, the construction of the building also incorporates many of Rieker’s core values of efficiency, value and responsibility for the environment and wider community.”


Retail solutions

Sun shining online THERE may be doom and gloom on our high streets combined with a pessimistic forecast for our economy, but for online footwear retailers the sun is still shining. The fashion sector has seen one of the highest levels of year on year online sales growth and footwear in particular has shown an increase of 38 per cent. For high street retailers, poor weather conditions have simply kept customers away, however these impressive online sales figures show that they appear to have ventured onto the internet as an alternative. Of course its not just the wonderful British summer that is driving this rapid online growth, but a combination of other influential factors. Improved access to faster broadband connections has been an important trigger to the recent explosion in online shopping, along with a rise in consumer confidence in online security. Footwear sales have grown relatively slowly online due to the challenges of being able to offer customers an experience that ultimately results in a purchase. However, improved website technologies such as the ability to offer multiple images, magnifying tools and video clips to name but a few have all resulted in improved conversion rates for online retail websites encouraging retailers to diversify onto the internet. Compared to setting up a high street retail store an online ecommerce

enabled website is a perfect and cost effective way to test the market. A professional ecommerce operation may cost £6,000 for the first year, however, to get a high street shop launched and stocked would likely use that figure in the first month. So what are the key steps to get online and get your share of this market? Determine if you have the available budget for the first year costs and identify how much time you have to devote to the project. Then appoint a contractor or get the tools and software if you intend to develop the site within your company. Research the competition and ensure you are competitive in the marketplace. Make sure your products have the best possible images as these will be the main way of attracting visitors to become customers. Finally, do not forget both offline and online marketing – the web is no different to other sales channels, you need to advertise. Young people are a key target audience and this generation spends an increasing amount of time using the internet. Social networking sites such as Facebook work as effective marketing tools, and internet advertising itself can be particularly cost-effective due to its ability to accurately target customers and channel them right to the products they are looking for.

Full of sdea ideas The new sdea Directory of Shopfittings and Display is full of creative and innovative ideas to help you design retail interiors full of theatre and sophistication. Whether you are trying to source a single retail display item or a complete shop fit, this well known guide is a great place to start. It is a visual delight, with full colour, descriptive and illustrative images of the huge range of products and services that sdea members manufacture and supply to the retail world. Backed up with company profiles and full contact details, it is a fully comprehensive buyers guide to shopfittings and display equipment, PoS, signage and visual merchandising. The publishers are giving away free copies of the sdea Directory to the

first 50 readers that request a copy and mention Out on a Limb. sdea will help you source a reputable supplier or an elusive retail display product via the Directory, by calling our Infoline, the association’s telephone enquiry service, or online at www.shopdisplay.org. Call 01883 348911.

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Retail review

Above: a view of the shop front, and, above right, is the inside of the shop

Last started life as a bespoke business giving Brighton’s residents the chance to buy their own unique pair of shoes. Now four years later, the shop has moved to more central premises, stocks other footwear brands, hosiery and accessories and its owner is even considering franchising. Christina Eccles reports.

Alex’s first and Last love ... LAST’S owner Alex Herdman had always loved shoes and was considering doing either a fashion degree or going into furniture design – so making handmade shoes allowed her to combine her love of fashion with an interest in fabrics and design. Her first taste of the footwear industry occurred after she came across a shop in Brighton selling handmade shoes eight years ago. Alex went in and asked if she could have a go herself, resulting in an apprenticeship with the shop’s owner. This led to her making her own shoes which she sold out of the shop on an appointment basis. Alex opened her own shop about four years ago and Last proved so popular that three years ago, she moved to a new site in the centre of town – allowing her more space for the increased footfall of customers and to cash in on business from Brighton’s tourists. Alex describes the shoes sold in Last as mid to high end and quite brand led – with brands including Cydwoq, Hetty Rose and Rosa Mosa. The shop also offers a wide range of hosiery – something which Alex revealed is becoming increasingly popular with customers who come in to browse but may not be able to afford the price of a pair of shoes.

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She said: “Stocking hosiery seemed to make sense because the shoes are relatively expensive. Sales have grown massively so it was definitely a good move.” ISSUE 49 OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2008

Alex also said although demand for bespoke footwear is not massively high, the combination of offering the service alongside retail shoes works well. She added: “To stock both is a really good combination. I know a lot about shoes and can do adjustments in stores. The customers have more faith in the shoes I stock because I know what I am talking about. “I make a bespoke pair about every two months – which from start to finish takes about six weeks. To actually make the pair takes about a week. “When someone orders a bespoke pair, I sit down and have a chat with them to find out what they want. We then have a look at the lasts and sit down with some drawings. Once a style has been agreed on I sample it, then do a first fitting and a final fitting. “A pair would cost about £500 but this depends on how complicated the design is, whether it is a boot or sandal and how much material is used. “A lot of the bespoke shoes I make are wedding shoes. I think this is because budget does not seem to be as much of an issue. Women are more likely to spend £600 on a pair of shoes if it is for their wedding day. “Recently I have been doing a lot of 1940s and 50s vintage styles as this is popular with Brighton customers who like an alternative, quirky look.”

A pair of bespoke shoes made by Alex Herdman

Although Alex admits the shop does have competition she revealed how she manages to keep up with it. “I think there is competition but the quality I am offering is quite different from the high street. High street shoes are trend based and I get feedback from customers who say they are not always happy with the quality they get.

“I am doing something quite niche and offering a more individual service. The accessories do help too. Falke hosiery is really popular and it helps as the brand has been in the press a lot.” Alex’s future plans involve possibly franchising the business as she has had a lot of interest in this area and expanding on the success of Last’s online shop.


INCLUDES COLLECTIONS PREVIEWING AT BOUTIQUE


Accessories

Turtles turn shoppers away from plastic bags TURTLE Bags was created in 2004 in response to the lack of ethically sourced shopping bags. They are inspired by turtles as many of our plastic bags travel along rivers and streams and end up out at sea. Leatherback Turtles coming to UK waters for food are increasingly mistaking our plastic bags for jellyfish. The trick of saying no to plastic bags is having a reusable bag with you, the string Turtle Bag will tuck into your pocket and is extremely strong and durable. For more information contact: Turtle Bags

Limited, Suite 6, Anglo House, Mitton Street, Stourport-on-Severn DY13 9AQ, call: 01299 827092 or visit:www.turtlebags.co.uk.

Bag amnesty marks start of partnership HANDBAG.com and Cancer Research UK have announced a new partnership with the launch of the first ever Handbag Amnesty. Taking place throughout September and October, the Handbag Amnesty will give women across the country the opportunity to bid for the designer handbag of their favourite celebrity whilst raising money to help beat cancer at the same time. Celebrities donating their favourite bags include Scarlett Johansson, Erin O’Connor, Dame Judi Dench, Lily Cole, Keira Knightley and Dolly Parton.

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working with Handbag.com to launch the Handbag Amnesty. “The auction of celebrity handbags will be an exciting way to raise funds for our vital research and we also hope that by encouraging supporters to donate their own favourite handbags we will be able to raise even more to help beat cancer.” Members of the public are also being asked to donate any of their bags that are still in good condition to their local Cancer Research UK shops, where they are always popular items.

The bags will the be auctioned on eBay in October to tie in with Breast Cancer Awareness Month and all proceeds will go to Cancer Research UK.

Claire Higgins, head of marketing at Handbag.com, said: “As the leading lifestyle website for women in the UK, we are in the unique position of being able to reach more than 1.5m women across the country.

Paul Farthing, director of high value relationships and Cancer Research UK, said: “We are delighted to be

“We are very proud to be working with Cancer Research UK to help make a difference.”


Accessories

New styles are crystal clear ... BRAZILIAN fashion brand Melissa have collaborated with jewellery artist J Maskrey to create two very special styles for the 2009 collection.

These and other collaborations with Vivienne Westwood, Campana brothers and Zaha Hadid will all be on show at Boutique stand A9.

Melissa has successfully combined the comfort of their thermo plastic shoes with the style and elegance of Swarovski Crystals.

For more information contact: Alana@melissashoe.com, visit: www.melissaplasticdreams.com or call: 01277 623483.

Sparkling new website idea

‘Luxurious accessories tick all the boxes’ FAIR and ethical traders Zinnia offer brightly coloured suede and leather shoes, hats, gloves, bags, boots and belts. Following an innovative supply policy designed to beat the credit crunch and allow retailers to offer a wider product range, buyers can choose their own colour combinations and design specifics, even for small orders (footwear sizes 36-44, minimum eight pairs any one design or colourway). Zinnia also manufacture small-run own-brand ranges for retailers.

Stunning to look at, sumptuous to wear, designed for every day: luxurious accessories that tick all the boxes.

With 25 colours of suede and leather already available, this autumn sees the launch of five pastel suedes and a patent and tartan range.

For more information visit Zinnia at: Chic Boutique, Showroom A16, call: 01684 891891 or visit: www.zinnia-gifts.co.uk.

A NEW website has launched that allows you to update your jewellery collection without spending a fortune. Blubangle.com offers a completely new subscription-based jewellery service that allows customers to borrow a range of high quality fashion items including necklaces, bracelets, earrings and rings for a fraction of the price that it would cost to purchase them. Subscribers can choose from four subscription levels starting at £14.99 per month, which allows them to borrow up to £200 worth of jewellery. Cherie Lehman, co-founder of Blubangle.com, said: “Jewellery can really make a difference to an outfit. Whether the intention is to glam-up that little black dress or to create a look that is in keeping with the latest fashion trends, the type of jewellery you wear really makes a statement about you. But keeping up with trends can be an expensive game.

“We wanted to create a service which gives women access to a wide range of high quality fashion jewellery that they could borrow and swap as often as they like but at an affordable price. “In a way the concept gives women a ‘bottomless’ virtual jewellery box.” Customers can purchase jewellery online from Blubangle.com’s jewellery outlet and members also receive an additional ten per cent discount, allowing them to keep an item they have borrowed. Cherie added: “We realise that actually borrowing items rather than purchasing them outright means a bit of a cultural shift for the UK market. “Borrowing handbags and jewellery is really big in the US, as highlighted in the recent ‘Sex and the City’ movie, but we believe there is probably a ‘Carrie Bradshaw’ in most women just waiting to get out and we want to replicate the success of this concept in the UK.”

A great season ahead WE are looking forward to this new and exciting show, affording us the opportunity to showcase our new winter collections. We will also be exhibiting a taster of the SS09 collection which has a strong emphasis on colour. Despite all the talk of the ‘credit crunch’ and the exchange rates plummeting, as always Envy are still continuing to offer bags which are reasonably priced but do not compromise on quality. We work in close conjunction with our suppliers, always looking at new fabrics and styles and we are confident that SS09 will be a great season. For more information contact: NV Bags and Accessories, Unit 2, Beanwood Farm, Shorthill Road, Westerleigh, Bristol BS37 8QN; call: 01454 320650; fax: 01454 329012; e-mail: nvbags@tiscali.co.uk or visit: www.nvbags.co.uk

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ADVERTISER’S ANNOUNCEMENT

Chatterbox

import and distribute high quality design led gifts

Maranda's gifts are a beautiful collection of exquisitely designed ladies personal items. These design-led handbag and stationery accessories are finished in Gold and Silver plate or leather, with hand finished stones and foiling. ‘Art deco’ styled designs bring contemporary fashion images to a wonderful range of products that include compact mirrors, lipstick holders, handbag holders, personal flashlights and handbag sized notepads and pens. Mad Bags are Funky and fun whilst being extremely good value for money. Mad Gloss has recently launched providing a fashion handbag, beautifully finished in high gloss and matching colours. Sizing suits all taste from the traditional handbag to large Totes. Also available are matching purses. Mad Crocs provide evening clutches in synthetic crocodile and snake finishes… trendy but friendly. Mad Classics feature hand made mother of Pearl, Horn and shell bags for all occasions.

Visage Fashion Watches delicately blends the latest fashion designs with high quality components to provide fashion watches of quality and durability. Made from Stainless steel cases, using Japanese movements, crystallized Glass and whether the straps are Steel, leather or rubber, all components are of the highest quality. A Visage watch comes with a three year movement guarantee. If you are a retail outlet interested in stocking Maranda’s gifts and Chatterbox soundcards, please contact Greg Warrington. Chatterbox card and Gift Company ltd Tel: 01628-523866 Email: greg@chatterboxcardandgift.co.uk Website: www.chatterboxcardandgift.co.uk


Kool for Kids

Dutch brand Barts has decided to show its new Autumn/Winter collection at Premier Kids. The brand focuses purely on winter accessories and now carry only one collections a year, which is stocked in outlets including Harrods, Snow and Rock and Ellis Brigham. Michal Simpson, head UK agent, said: “The orders we took at the last show have all been delivered into shops and are already selling through, which is quite amazing. “Premier Kids is perfect for us as we see ourselves as a fashion brand.

“However, we are also very excited at sitting alongside Spring Fair International as it offers us the opportunity to meet some key retailers who wouldn’t necessarily make a specific trip.” Lara Anderson, Premier Kids event manager, said: “We know for a fact that there are a number of gift retailers who do stock children’s products, but just can’t make it to Premier Kids, particularly when Spring Fair was only a week later. “We are very much looking forward to introducing our show to a new group of key buyers.”

The Bisgaard collection for Autumn/Winter 2008-09 is distinguished by excellent materials, supple leathers and virgin wool linings, rubber soles and some innovative products, including Sympatex for guaranteed breathability, and undeniable product quality is matched by the equally elevated design of the original creations. The brand pays great attention to a use of natural materials, flanked by the latest interesting technological innovations; the

company, which currently distributes brand products in more than 15 countries and in approximately 400 shops, is steadily expanding. The company provides shoes, ankle and heavy duty boots and gym shoes, to suit all clothing styles, both casual and elegant. The colour palette ranges from deep purple to petrol blue and silver, without forgetting the more traditional browns and reds.

One in three need different fittings ONE in three children require a different fitting between their left and right feet and only Hush Puppies have a unique set of precisely calibrated foot beds for each shoe, which tailor the fit individually to each foot if required. All the shoes come in whole sizes, and selected styles in half sizes, with E, F and G fittings. All shoes also have up to three months growth room built into them, so it is recommend that children’s feet are re-measured every three months. Hush Puppies recommend and supply an individual fitting service provided

by professional trained fitters using our unique foot beds. A child’s foot evolves from toddler (containing 45 pieces of developing bone) to adult (in which most of the bone have fused together) by the age of 18. During this growth period, the soft bones must be carefully supported and allowed sufficient room to grow and the average growth rate for children aged one to four is two and a half sizes per year. However, an individual child’s foot may grow up to four sizes in a year particularly during infancy.

Babyshoes scoops design award BABYSHOES.co.uk, suppliers of high quality footwear to babies and children, has scooped the 2007/2008 Industry Insider Design Award. The Corporate Times directors felt that its commitment to customer service has been second to none. Whether it supplies single pairs of shoes to its retailers or a larger amount, customers will receive the same standard of customer service expected from a UK businesses. BabyShoes stocks a wide range of boys shoes (sizes 16 to 21) in white, cream, pale blue, navy, black and black patent and girls’ shoes can be ordered in white, pink, cream, silver, gold, pink patent and black leather. The company supplies retailers across the UK from Kent to Scotland and

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the footwear is sourced from Portugal and Spain. For more details contact Trevor on 0151 280 3049 or 07711 346842, e-mail: babyshoes@blueyonder.co.uk or visit www.babyshoes.co.uk


Kool for Kids Rieker is a multi-award winning family-run company, recently named Brand of the year by Drapers. The shoes are precision made from up to 50 parts to promote comfort through well-being and combine stylish designs with value for money. The brand has launched its new children’s footwear range for SS09, fusing elements of trainers, school shoes and outdoor boots to create a new range of everyday wear. The footwear is tough and all the shoes are designed to make certain that they won’t go out of fashion after a few weeks. With AntiStress technology, Rieker footwear provides flexibility and shock absorption by spreading pressure over the entire surface of the soles. They are also designed to be roomier than other brands, with generous width, in order to cater for growing feet.

Booti-ful WITH winter nearly here, wellies are back in fashion and the footwear of choice. However, adults are not the only ones that can choose from a variety of styles and colours, as Start-rite is offering new styles in its Autumn/Winter 2008 welly collection for kids. The new range sees the introduction of a glow in the dark feature on boys’ style Snail Trail Glow and Rocket Glow, along with Magic Castle Glow for girls. Thermo is a fantastic new après-ski boot for boys and girls of all ages. This style is washable at 40°C, but it also lives up to its name, as the thick lining will keep feet warm and comfortable in outside temperatures as low as -40°C. New to the girls’ range, wellington boot Victoria has as a unique ‘candle’ boot pull, which helps children when putting the boots on and taking them off. This style is designed as a Victoria sponge cake complete with hundreds and thousands and a pink icing rim at the top of the boot. Meanwhile for boys there is

Alien Splash, featuring little green men with 3D antennae on both boots.

Great shoes you can rely on WHEN things are tough you need product you can rely on. Petasil fashion is all developed on lasts proven in the rough and tumble of back-to-school, where Petasil’s great fit and quality have made it a ‘must have’ for the top UK independent retailers. With one of the biggest collections of BTS in widths D-G (also available in navy, brown and red for those difficult to please schools), Petasil has emerged as a key brand in helping the independent retailer serve their market. Petasil provides its customers with great shoes that kids love to wear and that can fit any foot that walks through the door. For SS09 Petasil have soft leathers in all the hottest colours as well as the important shades that one needs to keep the tills rolling. Fun new styling, a new ultra-flexible pratik construction, great detailing,

all this adds up to make this the best fashion collection from Petasil ever. Plus don’t forget the Little Pets collection; all the great fitting qualities of our Junior collection wrapped up in smaller packages to make a reasonably priced, great looking range that retailers can trust. For further information please contact: Chris Marrum, H. R. Marrum Ltd on 01604 876800, e-mail: sales@marrum.co.uk or call Alan Bulloch, Scotland and Northern England on 07768 316623 or Stuart Burnham, Midlands & Southern England on 07973 526029.

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New Products

Fast fashion footwear at competitive prices PHILDON specialises in fast fashion footwear for women and supplies a wide range of customers, from independent stores to high street fashion chains, in the UK and abroad. With forward thinking designs and great insight into new trends and fashions it provide great women’s shoes at competitive prices.

It works closely with our two factories in China to develop new and interesting ideas to keep up with the fast paced world of UK retail. It is able to produce quality shoes in both Pu and leather, and our in-house design team are constantly on the look out for new last shapes and ideas to keep Phildon up to date.

Honouring the Earth ONLINE ethical fashion boutique Bourgeois Boheme has launched a new eco range of women’s footwear and coordinating belts. The Earth Goddess collection includes heels and flats in black organic and fair-trade cotton, and natural and corn-flower blue hemp. The range also features styles in black micro-fibre, an 80 per cent biodegradable leather look-alike that is entirely animal-friendly and the flats and sneakers include natural rubber and sisal soles. Bourgeois Boheme founder and owner, Alicia Lai, said: “Earth Goddess not only honours the goddess in every woman but also honours the Earth herself; we’ve aimed to produce a collection of shoes that’s not only eco-friendly but exceptionally stylish too.

NV Bags and Accessories has extended its successful range of ladies business bags. The range now offers a selection of lap top bags, a briefcase and a document folder, all available in black micro fibre with coloured PU trim and matching colour linings.

Spontaneity and imagination J SHOES step forward into their fifth year with a confidence born of their growing reputation for style, experimentation and distinctiveness. Their philosophy – Jaywalking, of course – is one of spontaneity and imagination. It’s an open-minded view of the world, shared by such cutting-edge Jaywalkers as Jay-Z, Primal Scream, The Chemical Brothers, Sienna Miller, Peaches and Pixie Geldof and The Paddingtons. The new SS09 collection takes the unique J Shoes combination of big ideas and little details and adds a new refinement. The women’s range accentuates the feminine and strikes a clear note of sophistication, but also indulges its relaxed side with sleek summer sandals.

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The men’s range puts the emphasis on refinement too. Elegant uppers are paired with casual outsoles, while key colours are from a ‘natural’ palette of grey, dove, dusty blue and off-white. The sandal line is extended, with relaxed versions built for comfort and smart leather-soled options that pile on the style. For more information call: 01858 468123, email: ukinfo@jshoes.com or visit www.jshoes.com.

“We’ve also tried to include in the range something for all women and for all occasions - sometimes a goddess wants to be snazzy and devilish, but there other times when she’s just looking for style and comfort.” The range also introduces a women’s belt selection that coordinates with the Earth Goddess collection and includes styles in natural hemp and aubergine-toned striped organic fairtrade cotton. With customers as far afield as Glasgow to Cork and Cardiff to Camden, Grinders continue to grow their coverage of the whole of the United Kingdom through through their loyal independent footwear retail accounts. With stock backed styles, fast delivery and no pre pack cartons they are rapidly gaining a name for quality, service and style. For dealer enquiries contact Grinders on 01245 465050 or e-mail: gerald@grinders.co.uk.


News

Advertiser’s Announcement

Design right win THERE has recently been yet another case in the courts relating to design right infringement, this time brought by Jimmy Choo. This case highlights the advantages to the fashion industry of relying on their community design rights in any litigation brought, rather than their UK design rights. Jimmy Choo brought a claim based on it being the proprietor of registered and unregistered community design rights in its 'Ramona' handbag. It argued that Towerstone sold handbags in its Oxford Street store that infringed these rights as they were confusingly similar to the Ramona handbag. The issues to be decided by the court were first, whether the handbag sold by Towerstone infringed Jimmy Choo’s design rights, and secondly, if so, whether Jimmy Choo was entitled to damages or an account of profits against Towerstone.

Towerstone argued that even if there was infringement, no monies should be paid by it as it was unaware that the bags it was selling were infringing copies and therefore it was an innocent infringer. When examining whether there had been infringement the judge concluded that while, on a highly detailed examination, there were some differences in the handbag sold by Towerstone, the overall impression created by Jimmy Choo’s bag on an informed user (not a woman in the street or a handbag designer, but someone with knowledge of handbag design) was the same as Jimmy Choo’s. Accordingly, Jimmy Choo’s registered and unregistered community design right had been infringed. The judge then went on to find that Towerstone could not rely on a defence of innocent infringement to the claim for

damages or an account of profits.

Sandi Simons, Partner, Harbottle & Lewis LLP

This case highlights that, unlike for a UK registered design right, where you are being sued pursuant to a community design right, you cannot rely on the innocent infringer defence. Designers therefore should consider obtaining community design registrations in order to benefit from strengthened protection to important designs. Retailers also need to protect themselves from unwittingly stocking an infringing copy by ensuring that the written contracts which they have with suppliers contain a warranty from the supplier as to the originality of the design in question as well as a corresponding indemnity. This is so that the retailer is reimbursed by the supplier in respect of any compensation that the retailer has to pay out to a third party as a result of an intellectual property infringement.

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ADVERTISERS ANNOUNCEMENT

Soft & Natural Feeling - HÖGL Collection Next spring earthy natural hues on soft casual shoes and pumps featuring sacchetto construction will succeed the bright summer colours, bringing calm and reduction into the new fashion season. French Style As a second major trend for 2009 a discreet elegant fashion without intensive colours can be seen to emerge. Unlike the casual Colonial style this “French style“, which focuses on the dress made from high-quality fabrics as the most important garment, is reflected by a more feminine alignment in the new HÖGL collection.

Broken Classics Inspired by the civilizations of India and Africa, fashion 2009 will present itself in a feminine and newly interpreted Colonial style. Typical safari tones ranging from Olive to Brown and Beige are combined with clear White and dark Red and worn as severe blazers, jersey dresses or baggy jodhpur style pants preferably made from cotton, linen or silk. These broken classics are accompanied by loafers, moccasins, casual pumps, flamencos and sandals in reduced, clean cuts and very expressive materials. To underline this casual / classic fashion HÖGL uses mostly naturally tanned Vacchetta leather in Offwhite to Dark Brown for this trend.

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HÖGL not only implements this quality aspect in the choice of materials but sets new standards for all day wearing comfort - in addition to the proven soft tread - with the special Sacchetto technique. The design of the feminine types of shoes, ranging from ballerinas over pumps to flamencos and sandalettes made from soft smooth leather or soft patent leather, is characterized by understatement as the clothing -, featuring new, high cuts, which perfect the overall look with the fresh visual effects. The colours are in the background, making way for the noncolours Black, White and many-faceted Gray as well as soft pastel shades.

Comfort goes fashion In addition to the fashionable, attractive design, functionality is extremely important to HÖGL.

The focus of attention is the pleasant soft tread, which results from the combination of foambacked insoles in the forefoot, leather lining and light, flexible soles. Comfortably shaped lasts offering sufficient space also to broader feet promise optimal fit. Additionally, soft uppers and functional cuts create maximum flexibility. In the new HÖGL collection the softline design is complemented by functional cuts and use of elastics and wide bandages to accommodate the foot optimally. In the sportive area, the wearer of HÖGL shoes with microfibre lined, flexible footbeds experiences superior all day walking comfort.



ADVERTISERS ANNOUNCEMENT

Spring 09 collection Robeez is the premier baby and toddler shoe brand, providing soft- and flex-soled footwear that supports the healthy development of little feet. Always functional and fashionable, Robeez shoes are a favorite with parents and medical experts. All Robeez footwear products carry the American Podiatric Medical Association’s Seal of Approval for promoting normal foot function. Delicate Flower Soft Soles (£19) are a perfect example of Robeez classic style with the intricate details seen throughout the line. Antique Bow MinShoez (£25) incorporate vintage-inspired detailing ideal for dress-up. Blossom Tredz (£28) are classic and pretty with screen-printed floral pattern.

New product introductions have marked the past year for infant footwear favourite, Robeez, with the launches of Mini Shoez and Tredz. Spring 09 debuts Robeez complete portfolio, Soft Soles, Mini Shoez, and Tredz, with the season’s hippest fashion trends and most innovative collection to date. Roller Disco – Robeez takes a bright introduction to spring with a rainbow of bold colours and playful prints. A range of fun details showcase design innovation throughout the Soft Soles, Mini Shoez, and Tredz lines. The brightly screen-printed florals on Classic MJ Garden Party Soft Soles (£19) are perfect for special occasions. The fuchsia mockcrock Fashionista Mini Shoez (£25) is a must-have for little divas. And for toddlers on the go, a playful pair of Dragonfly Tredz (!28) are a great catch.

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Sneakers – Urban, athletic, and stylish, no matter the age, sneakers are a must-have for spring 2009. Robeez introduces athletically-inspired styles in all product lines. Soft Soles’ Weekend Cars (£19) feature a casual silhouette with yellow embroidered cars. For an edgier option, Skater Mini Shoez (£25) offer a graphic-inspired sneaker. Sporty Tredz (£28) have a clean, athletic look with mesh detailing. Tea Party – Pretty and pastel, Tea Party is a classic approach to spring with flowers, delicate accents and soft, muted coloperfect for special occasions.

For more information about Robeez, please contact us free of charge: 0800-587-5610 (UK) 1800-635-091 (Ireland) or info@robeez.co.uk


ADVERTISER’S ANNOUNCEMENT

Spring/Summer 09 collection from Cat “The SS09 collection from Cat Footwear illustrates our rugged heritage interpreted in to seasonally relevant product for our consumers. Cat Footwear is not purely a ‘boot brand’ but provides quality footwear that is on trend and aspirational. Our core categories include our innovative iTechnology™ product that has evolved in to our premium casual offer. The buzzword this season is sockless, with our lead stories featuring a performance liner and brings instant comfort for all day wear. Plus our Legendary Raw Collection continues to drive contemporary fashion and impress with fantastic leathers and colour pops. Following an extensive consumer research exercise, Cat Footwear is even more strategically focused on a directional PDM strategy that encompasses its core consumer segment as well as identifying new

opportunities for the brand in terms of innovative, brand relevant product and the corresponding distribution channels this then presents. Cat Footwear has subsequently broadened its product offer to give our retail partners a real choice while still maintaining our core values of quality, durability and comfort and we are not compromising on our brand promise. Be prepared to be pleasantly surprised by what you see from Cat Footwear – we are the brand who built the city and we understand the challenges of everyday life. With our rugged heritage and our ground-breaking spirit we will continue to drive innovation for our brand and be the authentic lifestyle leader. Cat Footwear. Built for the City.” For more details contact: 0207 860 0100

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Padders produces pink shoe to support Breast Cancer Care FOR the fourth consecutive season a leading shoe brand Padders is producing a limited edition version of one of its popular ranges and donating £10 from every pair sold to support one of its favoured charities, Breast Cancer Care. The Destiny shoe, available in two colours, pink, and black with pink is in the shops now in time for Breast Cancer Awareness month in October. Padders is renowned for its awardwinning feelgoodfeet™ footwear, designed for comfort and support. In producing yet another limited edition version of one of its best selling shoes it is enabling its female customers to not only feel good about their feet but also about supporting a vital cause. According to Breast Cancer Care, someone in the UK is diagnosed every 11 minutes with breast cancer, so support for affected people is essential. Only recently Padders handed over a

cheque to Breast Cancer care for £8,230, the sum raised from sales of its limited edition pink Pace shoe from last season. “Next month a lot of people nationwide will be getting behind the breast cancer awareness campaign, culminating in the ‘In the Pink’ day on October 26. We’d like to think that a great deal of our customers will be tempted to sport new pink Destiny shoes on that day while feeling that they’re helping someone affected by breast cancer,” said Mike Rowe, sales director at Padders. Padders’ Destiny shoe is available from a network of authorised shoe retailers across the country or can alternatively be ordered by phoning 01536 534977 or logging online at www.padders.co.uk. It is available in an ‘E’ fitting, from size 3-8 (including half sizes) and costs £58, £10 of which will be donated to Breast Cancer Care.

Family-run company wins award RIEKER is a multi-award winning family-run company, recently named Brand of the year by Drapers for good reason. The shoes are precision made from up to 50 parts to promote comfort through well-being and combine stylish designs with fantastic value for money. Rieker understands that wearing sandals and open-toed shoes is an integral part of summer, but this type of footwear often lacks structure and support. Rieker AntiStress shoes are designed to be different. While lighter and roomier than other high street brands, the AntiStress technology ensures incredible

Footwear brand set to hit comfort footwear market ONE of America’s most well known women’s footwear brands, Naturalizer, is set to hit the UK’s comfort footwear market. The brand, from Brown Shoe Company Inc, which has been producing styled comfort footwear since 1927, will be launched in the UK for S/S 2009 by Lotus Ltd. The UK launch collection from Naturalizer is aimed at busy women who love shoes

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that are stylish and comfortable. The range includes soft leather ballerina inspired designs, wedge options and T-bar heels, all in neutral colours and featuring on trend detailing. Alan Scott, Lotus Ltd’s sales director said: “Lotus Ltd is the perfect partner for Naturalizer to launch to the UK market. “The synergy between

Naturalizer and Lotus Ltd is remarkable, each able to deliver exceptional footwear that boasts unparalleled styling and outstanding quality. “The addition of Naturalizer further enhances Lotus Ltd’s product and brand portfolio, whilst Lotus’s substantial retailer base will ensure that the Naturalizer brand will become as popular with style conscious women in the UK, as it is the US.”

support, reflexibility and shock absorption; spreading pressure over the entire surface of the aircushioned soles so feet feel fresh, even at the end of the day. Not only do feet feel great but they look great too. Rieker’s in-house designers have created a fabulous new range of shoes for Spring/Summer based on the latest trends from across Europe. Rieker shoes are perfect for busy women who want to look great, without compromising on comfort. The shoes are worn by everyone from busy mums, nurses and teachers to radio and television presenters. For more information contact: 01858 414141 or visit: www.rieker.com.


Increase turnover

WANT to increase your turnover and profitability? Have you ever considered an upselling strategy with a well known, complementary product, as well as a trusted brand? Scholl is the most recognised foot care brand in the world, promoting foot health, comfort and well being across 70 countries. It is renowned for delivering high quality innovative products which have been developed from over a century of retail expertise and experience. Here is the opportunity to stand out among your competitors by offering your customers complete feet satisfaction. By upselling the Scholl range of footcare products to accompany

your footwear collection, you are associating your business with an established brand while enhancing your product offerings. The complete Scholl offering from Algeos extends to over 60 products across 36 product categories. The features and benefits of each product are clearly highlighted on the packaging, making the sale straightforward for both the consumer and the reseller. Use Scholl’s expertise to your advantage and watch your profit potential increase. Scholl Footcare products are distributed by A. Algeo Ltd to independent retailers and medical resellers. For more information please e-mail: sales@algeos.com or call: 01514 481228.

WITH the Christmas and New Year party season fast approaching, everyone wants to feel their best and most body beautiful self, so give your customers what they are searching for with Chung Shi shoes. Chung Shi, the revolutionary exercise shoe, is proven to noticeably tone the legs, buttocks and stomach by working legs up to 257 per cent harder than traditional trainers. An inbuilt ‘pilates-system’, which works by using a unique patented reflexology bar in the centre of the shoe and a 15 degree curved sole, helps to stimulate the use of

neglected muscle groups and improve core stability. Chung Shi shoes have outsold the MBT range of fitness shoes in America, making them the leading choice for consumers looking to improve their overall fitness and tone up. These light, stylish and comfortable shoes also help to reduce cellulite and varicose veins by increasing your body’s circulation as you walk. Customers have been delighted with results achieved by wearing Chung Shi shoes, so why not improve your own bottom line? For more information please contact LJM Sports at lizzie@ljmsports.co.uk or call 01675 430115.

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News

Unique show continues New sailing boot launched to attract buyers POSITIVE reports from the Chic International Fashion Accessories Fair held at the Ricoh Arena, Coventry, in July, have proved that this unique event continues to attract exhibitors and buyers. Thirty five new exhibitors increased the appeal, as did the newly created ‘Showcase’ area for inspirational jewellery and small leathers. First time exhibitor at Chic, John Austin from ‘Bags of Wonder’ who launched his new range of hand made raffia and rattan bags from Indonesia and the Philippines, said: “The beauty of this show is the quality of buyer, there are no time

wasters, those who visit are wanting to buy and are seriously interested in searching for new products. Cindi Barnstable of Owen Barry Ltd said: “This was our second time exhibiting at Chic and we were very pleased with the business we wrote and the high calibre of visitors who attended the show, Owen Barry showed our British manufactured suede and leather handbags and sheepskin hats and gloves. “The buyers appreciated the quality and detail – these are the ideal buyers for our merchandise and it is superb for us that Chic is attracting this quality of attendee.”

Birmingham bag show cancelled THE Bag Show SS09 which was due to take place in Birmingham on 19 to 21 October has been cancelled. The handbag and accessories show was due to take place at Carnmore Park Exhibition Centre, Solihull but an announcement has recently been placed on the

fair’s website informing visitors that it will no longer be going ahead. Event organiser Mike Plant also thanks those who had been supporting the event, but no further explanation for the cancellation is given.

CHATHAM has launched the new range for Spring/Summer 2009 which includes the introduction of the technical range. Designed for outdoor enthusiasts and keen yachtsman, the technical range is contemporary and extremely durable. The range includes various styles of trainer shoes and also the new sailing boot. Made with quick drying fabrics and slip resistant sipped rubber soles, the technical range is suitable for all weather conditions. Another benefit to the range is a double fitting full-length foot bed sock system, introduced to allow the individual to change the size of the shoe easily according to the level of comfort and support needed for each occasion. The Genoa, Regatta and Solo are all sailing shoes designed for women and are available in sizes three to eight. The Regatta has a double Velcro strap and the Genoa and Solo both incorporate the traditional lace design with nubuck leather fabric. The Cruiser, Polaris, Henley, Cowes, Endurance, Navigator and Vanguard are suitable for men and are available in sizes six to 12.

TECHNOLOGY

diarydates Boutique by Chic Ricoh Arena, Coventry, 26-28 October (www.boutique-by-chic.com) Chic is the largest dedicated fashion accessories and travel goods showcase in the UK and is a must for all buyers of handbags, belts, gloves, luggage, jewellery and other fashion accessories. London Edge London Olympia, 1-3 February (www.londonedge.com) The trade show for alternative street and club fashion, footwear, accessories and giftwear with over 300 collections available to view. ISPO Winter Neue Messe München, 1-4 February 2009 The international trade fair for sports equipment and fashion celebrates its 69th show and, with the full exhibition space booked up, are expecting record attendances. Pure Olympia London, 8-10 February (www.purewomenswear.co.uk) A showcase of over 800 directional womenswear brands, young creative labels, footwear and accessory collection.

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WSA Las Vegas, 12-14 February (www.wsashow.com) Retail buyers will be given the chance to see the new SS08 footwear and major brands. Collections will be revealed in the Style Walk Lounge and live fashion presentations will be staged.

Moda Footwear NEC Birmingham, 15-17 February (www.moda-uk.co.uk) Moda will include a seminar programme which will be free of charge to all visitors and exhibitors. The Moda catwalk show will present an overview of the seasons trends, providing an insight into key looks.

GDS/GLS Messe Dusseldorf, Germany, 13-15 March (www.gds-online.com) Highlights will include high fashion labels from international brands and the children’s footwear marketplace. Other events will include fashion shows, trend presentations and trend vision.

SHOE FITTING



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