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Hexham shop in specialist fit move By Louise Cordell AN independent shoe shop in Hexham is increasing sales by diversifying into the specialist fit market. London shoe designer Insa has created a ten inch heel incorporating real elephant dung for a Tate Britain exhibition. The designer was one of six artists asked by the gallery to create a response to Chris Ofili’s recent exhibit of an elephant dropping painting of the Virgin Mary. To produce the heel Insa retraced the journey Ofili made over 15 years ago and sourced dung from the same family of elephants that produced the dung used in the infamous nineties painting. He has used similar techniques and materials – beading, resin and painting, to pay homage to the style of Ofili’s early work. Insa has also designed signature collections for brands such as Nike and Oki-Ni as well as running his own heel company, Insa Heels.
Online collection RADLEY has launched its first ever shoe collection online at kurtgeiger.com. The new collection stays true to Radley's core design aesthetic of creating eclectic, colourful products, but the capsule collection also highlights the brand’s artisan styling. Each of the shoe styles has also been create to complement the brand’s spring/summer 2010 handbag range.
Feet First Footwear, which caters for kids aged up to 14, has recently won the UK distribution contract for an orthotic children’s shoe. The Memo footwear design comes from Poland and helps to diagnose and correct mild to moderate foot problems. The shoe’s sole is divided into six numbered zones and after being worn for three weeks the level of wear on different areas can provide the information needed to select the correct insole to help improve the problem. Shane Quinn, store owner, said: “We recommend that any children with foot problems are referred to a podiatrist first – but these shoes are great for accommodating inserts where mainstream shoes don’t. “We have had parents bringing normal shoes back into the store after they have been broken by inserts – to avoid this you often have to go a size bigger to accommodate them.But the downside of this is that it compromises fit.”
Panama Jack has introduced new designs this season, all made in Spain. These include the Neptune, made in nappa suede with a recycled cork sole, the laced style Norton, with natural leather lining and padded sole and sandals Miranda and Jane in a range of colours.
Since stocking the shoes, the stores has had an increasing number of orders and patients referrals from local hospitals. Shane also contacts the hospitals and clinics local to any other shoe stores who order the brand, letting them know that there is a local supplier available to them. The brand also offer another range of shoes which cater specifically for children diagnosed with Cerebral Palsy, which is currently being sold mostly to hospitals, but is also available to stores. Shane added: “These products aren’t necessarily big sellers but what they have done for my business is create an awareness and put us on the map with people who wouldn’t usually come to us. As a results of this we are getting new customers, and through them we are selling to their siblings and friends too. “We are really only aiming to sell these shoes to shops that are members of the Society of Shoe Fitters, like us, or who are aiming to achieve that qualification. “This is because we think the best way to beat the recession is to bring in new customers with the guarantee that you will take the time and attention to fit them properly, with a quality product.”
New range has new cushioning A NEW women’s footwear range from Kenneth Cole New York has been launched at the House of Fraser.
Optimism that trade will pick up FOLLOWING a successful show season for brands, it’s now down to retailers to get their carefully chosen new stock sold. Most traders are optimistic that business will be picking up over the summer and in this issue we have spoken to several independents who are trying a range of new schemes to increase their sales. Among them are Feet First Footwear in Hexham, which is introducing a brand new range of orthotic shoes into the UK and Footprints in Peterborough, a family run store spearheading a charity appeal for Kosovan children. We also meet up and coming designer Rachel Jones, who has gone from working as an analyst predicting the shoe styles of the future, to putting her insider knowledge to good use with her own footwear range. Finally, in our New Products round up Out On A Limb reveals Paez – one of the most exciting new brands to hit the UK so far this year. The Argentinean designs have been brought to the country by entrepreneurs James McGowan and Douglas Aarvold and are already winning over retailers with their laid back style.
The collection features a new, patented cushioning system, 925 Technology, for added comfort in all styles from flat boots to stilettos.
New sales director appointed A NEW international sales director for Gant and Maruti footwear has been appointed by the Bos Group. Roelof de Leeuw has a wide range of experience within the footwear market and has previously been responsible for well-known international brands such as Crocs, Pony, Nautica and 7 For All
Mankind. Frenzy van den Berg, brand and development director of the Bos Group, said: “In the context of our future growth for the Maruti and Gant footwear brands, it is of utmost importance to add expertise to our team to help us further develop in the global market.”
The system is made up from two foam layers, one which acts as a shock absorber, and one of memory foam that moulds to the shape of the foot. The shoes also feature a flaxseed pillow in the arch cradles to support the foot, sheepskin linings that allow the feet to breathe and the high heel styles have an impact resistant nylon heel lift.
www.twitter.com/ooalmagazine ISSUE 58 APRIL/MAY 2010
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Contents COVER STORY
Issue 58 April/May 10 Introducing new developments Collection features vintage styling
NEWS SPOTLIGHT
Designer with a practical twist
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Sales Tony Barry - Sales & Marketing Director Beverley Green - Sales Manager (bg@whpl.net) Advertising Contacts Tel: 01226 734333 | Fax: 01226 734477
Editorial
NEWS
Classic styling
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ACCESSORIES
Capital inspiration
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Clog stages a comeback
NEWS
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Andrew Harrod - Group Editor Judith Halkerston - Group Deputy Editor Louise Cordell - Editor Christina Eccles - Reporter Mary Ferguson - Reporter Editorial Contacts Tel: 01226 734694 | Fax: 01226 734705 Email: lcordell@whpl.net
Design & Production
RETAIL REVIEW
Steven’s simple rule
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Stewart Holt - Studio Manager (sth@whpl.net)
Kyle Wilkinson - Design & Production (kw@whpl.net)
NEWS
Arjun moves on UK market
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Circulation 01226 734695 (24 hour hotline) Email: circulation@wharncliffepublishing.co.uk
Complete range of new designs DURING the last few years, Softwaves has continuously and consistently presented new developments, supported by the vast experience of their creators, ComforSyst SA ‘Comfort Systems’. With every detail engineered from the very beginning of the design process, and with a strong control on development and production, for Winter 2010 the brand is offering a complete range of new designs – City Sport shoes, booties and boots. Using Italian washed nubuck combined with full grain sheep skins, all the finishing is carried out by hand, using natural waxes and water based polish. Smart engineering details are included inside and outside the shoes, including the Luftpolster, a small inside case on the base of the sole that hides a special air cushion system, and the Wave Massage Insole, which is made up of breathable PU and natural pig leather with a unique wave design offering a smooth and relaxing massage to the feet. As an international brand, adaptation is also a key word for Softwaves. All styles feature cuts, elastics or buckles in order to adapt to different types of feet and the designs also come in a generous G fitting, which ladies from 35 to 55 find very suitable for their needs.
On top of this, the real achievement for the Winter 2010 collection is the development of the new GoAir fitting system. Made up of four pieces, GoAir consists of a 100 per cent rubber sole in an optimal walking design, a ventilated platform and attached air capsules. The mechanism has been developed to force the air to circulate inside the shoe while the wearer is walking, making the experience smoother and more relaxing. It means that the internal humidity is expelled, keeping the feet dry and the temperature stable. The system is completely waterproof and the benefits include reduced fatigue and odour and all round better health for the feet. The system is available in Softwaves GoAir styles and has been developed for very active people who have to walk all day or who spend many
hours on their feet. Every part of a Softwaves shoe is produced inside Europe, between Italy, Germany and Portugal, and all raw materials are tested at Shoe Technology centres to guarantee high levels of performance. For more information contact Anthony Freer on: 07730 486601, e-mail: Anthony.Freer@footwearinternational.co.uk or visit: www.softwaves.pt.
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Image outweighs performance in trainer choice By Louise Cordell IMAGE is more important than performance when it comes to choosing new trainers, according to the findings of a new study. Biomechanics experts at Staffordshire University have discovered that colour is the single most important factor governing choice in a recent study carried out among a student population. The research was carried out by Professor Nachi Chockalingam and Helen Branthwaite from the Faculty of Health and the findings published in the Footwear Science journal. Professor Chockalingam said: “We questioned 195 students, predominantly from a sports and exercise background, based on thoughts, feelings and choices they made on purchasing their last set of training shoes. “The questionnaire explored the type of shoe purchased, the technical factors that influenced
the purchase, the qualities of the trainers, emotions association with wearing the trainer, what the training shoe was used for and a review of lower limb injuries. “The main influence on purchasing the trainer was colour and brand, highlighting that image and fashion are more important factors than cushioning and motion control. “Clearly the impact of brand specific features and technologies that are researched to maximise performance and reduce injury are not influential for this population when buying training shoes.” The results showed that 151 out of the 195 students surveyed claimed that colour was an important factor in choosing their training shoes, followed by brand (128), cushioning (74), type of activity (54) and motion control (15). They also revealed that everyday wear was the most common use for the trainers (47 per cent), while
Levi has introduced a premium handcrafted range of men’s footwear for autumn/winter 2010. The collection combines American style and Italian shoe making traditions to create a range inspired by the company’s early customers. The collection has been named 1853, after the year when Bavarian immigrant Levi Strauss set up the business in San Francisco. It consists of two classic workwear boots, which come with a two year guarantee. The California boot mixes hook fastenings with double sided elastic inserts for extra safety and the San Fransisco boot has a more streamlined design with pulling hoops. The boots uppers are made from extra thick Italian bull leather and stitched onto high density, oil resistant rubber.
Good mood at GDS NEXT year’s GDS and Global Shoes events in Düsseldorf are to be held on weekdays, rather than across a weekend. The decision has been made following this season’s show, where 29,500 visitors used the three-day trade fair to place their orders for autumn/winter 10/11. The aim is to tailor the two fairs to suit changing marketing conditions and from 2011, both will be held from Wednesday to Friday. Kirstin Deutelmoser, GDS project director, said: “Together with the GDS advisory board we have decided on changing to weekdays. We are confident that this move will make the shows even more attractive for retailers as we will be avoiding the day with the highest retail sales – Saturday. This means retailers no longer have to decide between visiting the trade fair and selling.” Almost one in two visitors at the show came from abroad, with the top five countries listed as Benelux, France, Italy, the UK and Austria, and included retail firms such as Amazon, Jones Bootmaker and Office. Kirsten added: “GDS was a key indicator for the sector. We felt optimism and a good mood paired with a concentrated though relaxed working atmosphere on all three days.”
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23 per cent used them for running, 21 per cent used them for the gym and nine per cent used them for other sports including tennis and football. Professor Chockalingam added: “The results of this study indicated that the main use for training shoes is to wear them for everyday use. “This may be as the comfort and cushioning of the shoe is preferable to a traditional shoe and because it is fashionable to do so. “This research obviously has implications for the big brands which pump millions into research and marketing with a view to develop shoes that alter running mechanics and improve lower limb function and reduce injuries. “It will also form part of a much larger study, still focusing on the factors determining choice, but involving other age groups.”
Shoe design challenge for students BRIGHTON-based footwear label Irregular Choice is teaming up with Cordwainers students to celebrate its tenth birthday. The brand has set up a new design project for BA Footwear students at the London College of Fashion, challenging them to create a shoe that will appeal to the Irregular Choice fan base. Danny Sullivan, founder and designer, said: “I want to help nurture the students’ skills and knowledge and support emerging talent.
“It is important to give something back, especially as students are such loyal Irregular Choice customers.” The winning design that captures the essence of the brand most effectively will be produced as a limited edition and sold at the flagship store on Carnaby Street, with all profits going into the Irregular Choice Scholarship Fund for Cordwainers at London College of Fashion. Paul McNicoll, director of programmes said, “We’re delighted to be working with Irregular
Choice on such a creative and thoughtful brief. “The students will gain invaluable experience producing designs that have the potential to be manufactured and sold – it’s such a fantastic opportunity for students who are only just embarking on their careers in the hugely competitive world of footwear design.” The winning student will be offered the opportunity to go on allexpenses paid trip to China and see their design being produced at Danny’s family-run factory.
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Designer Dionne shows off her shoes at parties FOOTWEAR designer Dionne Gooding has come up with a new way of promoting her shoes to customers. She holds Shoe Parties, which take her footwear into clients’ homes and offices, attracting groups of friends and family to view and try on the designs. Dionne said: “I completed a shoemaking course at the London College of Fashion and studies textiles at De Montfort University. “I love shoes, but I always found it hard to find exactly what I wanted, and so when I started created my own I really enjoyed combining elements of the two courses to come up with original designs.I started doing shoe parties because I wanted to find a fun way of bringing my designs to new people – I started out with friends and family and it has been really successful.” Party hostesses gather ten or more friends together to meet the designer and view the shoes, take part in shoe trivia games for footwear prizes and try on their favourite styles in a mini catwalk show. Guests can also bring along their own
old shoes to transform with the help of Dionne and her collection of trimmings and fabrics. Dionne added: “My designs are quirky because I always found that high street shoes were very plain with not much detailing and the ones with lots of embellishment have more of a designer price tag. So I wanted to create a designer look with a high street price tag. I approached a few boutiques with my portfolio and made some designs for them – keeping it exclusive – I usually only make one design in each size, although I can make more to order if needed. “If someone has an idea for a shoe, for example to match an outfit, then we can work together to design them or adapt one of my designs to suit them better.” Dionne is now hoping to get her shoes in to more boutiques around the UK and is also working on designing a wedding collection. She is aiming to produce something different to the plain wedding shoes currently on offer, and create something more fashion led for the modern bride.
The latest collection from Feud London appeared at Moda and features the brand’s signature high heels and vintage styling. The range includes thigh high boots, stilettos, ankle boots and extra large wedges combined with a mix of textures and a brand new colour palette.
Record show for Hush Puppies HUSH Puppies were back at Moda this season and retailers celebrated their return by placing a record number of orders at the trade show. Andy Cockayne, sales director, said: “Our success at Moda this season has proved that the brand is still popular with the
independents as we have had a record show, taking more forward orders than in any previous year. “We also experienced success with our new concept The Body Shoe, with the men’s Body Shoe styles being amongst the best selling styles of the entire range.”
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Stepping in to help Kosovan kids A FAMILY run footwear store in Peterborough is collecting shoes for children in one of the poorest regions of Europe. Footprints, owned by James North, has gathered over 375 pairs of shoes from customers and local school children as part of a charity appeal. The store is asking customers to bring in their children’s outgrown footwear when they come in for a fitting, so that the old pair can help a Kosovan child when the weather is too cold to go to school without shoes. James North and Rosemary Gray pack shoes bound for Kosovo
The scheme is part of a project run by the Essex based charity Hope and Aid Direct, which makes humanitarian aid deliveries to Kosovo twice a year and has been spearheaded by Peterborough Minster Rotary Club and club treasurer Alan Eldred. He said: “We take it for granted in our western society that most of us can afford to buy shoes for our children.
“In Kosovo they cannot – and those that have shoes cannot afford to replace them when they have grown out of them or worn them out.” In the two years that the project has been running over 3,000 pairs of shoes have been sent out to Kosovo. Organisers are now hoping to increase the number of donations
Kosovan children with their new shoes
they receive and so are encouraging people to keep giving. They are especially keen to receive more trainers and sports shoes as most of the children have never worn a real pair of football boots. James said: “When I took on the store last year everyone was so keen to keep the shoe donations going – people like to know they
are helping others. “Quite often when you fit a child with new shoes the parents will come back with their old shoes, plus other things like plimsolls and trainers. “In most cases children just grow out of their shoes, footwear is such a basic element that we take it for granted, but it’s such a waste if old shoes are thrown away.”
Styles and silhouettes GIO-GIO has released a new range of footwear styles and silhouettes to complement its clothing offering. Price points have been tiered to help make the range suitable for clothing retailers and stand alone footwear stores.
Action brand Etnies has launched a new range at JD Sports for 2010. The selection includes the Jameson in four JD exclusive colourways and other styles such as Santiago, Cinch and Lo Cut 2.
Outdoor brand launches new range for winter Outdoor performance footwear manufacturer, Brasher, has introduced a new range of women’s boots as part of its autumn/winter 2010 collection. The launch comes as the brand announced sales for 2009 were up eight per cent, with growth driven by the brand’s fabric boots and multi activity and lifestyle ranges. Andy Loeber, MD, said: “A lifestyle range is the perfect opportunity for outdoor retailers to sell every day footwear to their customers and enjoy incremental sales, rather than simply leaving it to the high street.”
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The men’s collection features vulcanised and cupsole high tops and mid height trainers with material combinations including snake effects, textured canvas, perforated leathers and mesh nylons. For women the brand’s offer includes denim lace up trainers, canvas hi-tops and a faux fur lined boot.
Performance skate shoe brand éS Footwear has announced that it will soon be available in Schuh stores nationwide. The store will be stocking six styles from this season’s collection including three éS collaboration designs. These include new styles from Krooked Skateboards team riders Bobby Worrest and Mike Anderson and Japanese artist Ryuichi Ogino.
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designer spotlight An expert in predicting the shoe styles of the future is putting her insider knowledge to good use with her own footwear range. Styles created by Rachel Jones have now been making waves at London and Paris Fashion Week – Out On A Limb found out more.
Designer shoes that are practical to wear By Louise Cordell Rachel Jones originally trained in textile designs, graduating from the Glasgow School of Art, before going on to complete a postgraduate course in footwear design at Cordwainers in London. After undergoing training in bespoke shoemaking she went on to work at fashion forecasters WGSM, providing style predictions, trend research and analysis. She also found the time to co-edit a book on creating inspiring footwear, ‘Shoe Design’, and branch out into freelance teaching work. However, two years ago, she made the decision to start up her own brand, Rae Jones, creating a range of women’s footwear from scratch. Rachel said: “I had missed designing, that was what I had originally trained to do, and I wanted to work with real, hands on products again, rather than just with ideas, and have a creative outlet. “I believed that I could produce something that is often hard to find in footwear – shoes that are wearable but still interesting.” She uses a combination of unusual material and texture combinations, matching up different grains and high shine leathers with suede, all in a range of colour combinations. Her aim is to create wearable shoes made with longevity in mind – quality footwear that women can wear again and again, with every outfit in their wardrobe and really feel a connection to. Rachel added: “I know the footwear market well and I felt that what was missing was shoes that were design led, but still practical.
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but that doesn’t mean that people want to be wearing plain styles or dull colours all the time. “I have addressed this in my styles mainly by lowering heel heights to make the shoes wearable, and then adding colours and textures to capture the imagination.” The Rae Jones collection is now being stocked in a range of independent boutiques including Poste Mistress, The Three Threads and Mimi and after showing at London and Paris Fashion Weeks this year she supplies to stores in Europe as well. She added: “People’s reaction to the brand has been very positive, especially at London Fashion Week. “It was the first time the shoes had appeared at the show, so I was very pleased with such a good response. “People also appreciate the fact that the shoes are Portuguese made, from high grade Italian leathers,
quality is very important. “I would love to have them manufactured in the UK, but unfortunately there just aren’t the women’s shoe factories around any more to make that possible.” Rachel is now concentrating on expanding her range and is planning on introducing a selection of bags to coordinate with the shoes for spring/summer 2011 and is also considering the possibility of a men’s footwear line. She added: “I think men’s footwear is having a real revival at the moment – it is finally reaching a place that women’s footwear reached about ten years ago.
“There is definitely a market for more interesting men’s shoes, although most will probably never be as adventurous as women, and catering for that is something I would like to pursue.”
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An exclusive new area dedicated to footwear is set to be unveiled at Boutique by Chic. The new section will form a central focus within the show, which has been created for directional fashion buyers and European fashion accessory brands.
Exhibitors include UK handbag brands like Fiorelli, Mischa Barton, Ri2k, Nica, Charlotte Reid, Storm, Sirco, Nova and NV bags, as well as many European brands like Roberta Gandolfi, Tierry Mugler, Gianni Conti, Abbacino, Arcadia, Barbara Milano, Hansson and Kontessa.
Boutique by Chic is set to take place from 25 to 27 April at the Ricoh Arena in Coventry, which is easily accessible by road or via a free shuttle service from Birmingham international airport and railway station.
jewellery, scarves, watches and every other type of fashion accessory
Since its launch in October 2008, Boutique by Chic has caused a sensation with buyers thanks to its concept of grouping together carefully selected, high quality fashion brands from all over the world in a luxurious environment.
Others will be showing jewellery, scarves, watches and every other type of fashion accessory.
This year the organisers have announced a ‘Moulin Rouge’ French theme which will stretch from the decor to the restaurant menu. Over 70 per cent of the brands are from Europe and over 40 per cent of them do not show at any other UK show, giving buyers the opportunity to gain an advantage over their competitors by offering customers something different.
The show has also been timed to fit in with requests from the handbag and footwear industry - just after the Paris and Milan fairs when collections have been perfected to reflect emerging trends, while still early enough to allow bespoke forward orders to be delivered early in the selling season. To book your place on the shuttle, pre- register, see the brand listings and find more information on Boutique by Chic and Boutique Footwear, visit: www.boutique-by-chic.com.
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Pitillos Shoes are made in La Rioja, Northern Spain. Nearly 40 years of manufacturing have made Pitillos one of the busiest shoe manufacturers in Spain making over two million pairs per year. The brand aims for quality design combined with competitive price points and products feature leather uppers in finishes including croc and patent, rubber soles and high quality insoles.
The latest collection from ethical jewellery boutique Leblas aims to combine traditional artistry with contemporary chic. Founders Clare Winfield and Arabel Lebrusan work to create fine jewellery using traditional skills and sustainable materials. The company uses ethically sourced diamonds and 100 per cent recycled gold, silver and platinum, sourced from a single refinery. The autumn/winter 2010 collection from Enzo of Florence features classic styling with strappy evening sandals and fashion shoes on high, medium and low heels. The range also includes both ankle and knee length boots and leather courts made with extra-flexible soles for comfort.
Celebrities take their bangles to awards OSCAR winner Morgan Freeman and producer Lori McCreary wore luxury, bespoke versions of their 46664 Bangles to the Academy Awards this year. The bangle is the symbol of a social investment company that raises money for Nelson Mandela’s various charities and works
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to create employment in South Africa. Morgan Freeman wore an ‘Invictus 46664 Bangle’ in platinum, decorated with ethically produced emeralds and black diamonds and Lori McCreary wore a specially designed gold filigreed African daisy design with conflict free white diamonds.
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Luxury bags handmade in Italy
Riley Burnett’s winter 2010 collection has been created around the themes of saints and symbols, worship and ritual. The range features trinkets and charms, brass, leather, silver and stones from throughout Ethiopia, India, Pakistan, Indonesia, Afghanistan and Bali – handcrafted into necklaces, bracelets, rings and earrings. Miezko’s winter 2010 collection is inspired by punk rock, the 1940s, architecture and the 1980s. The brand’s range includes footwear, handbags, bracelets and belts. The designs features metallic accessories and come in a range of colourways including indigo blue, antique green, merlot, nude and brown.
LENA Erziak is a new line of luxury handbags, all handmade in Italy by the finest artisans that Florence has to offer. Our spring 2010 collection includes bags made out of leather, python, and ostrich. This collection stands out in its bold use of color, and timeless elegance in its understated, yet chic styles. Please check out our website at www.lenaerziak.com for photographs of the Spring 2010 collection. Only in its second season, Lena Erziak handbags have already gained recognition in People Style Watch, Life and Style, Audrey magazine, and
Instyle and will be on Gossip Girl this coming month. Lena Erziak is now sold at Fred Segal and Milk in LA, Stella Filante in NYC, and at many department stores in Japan. For more information email: aishlinn@lenaerziak.com or call: +1 646 484 5895.
Beauty, sobriety, design, elegance and quality are the characteristics found in the Puntotres range of handbags and accessories. The Lupo brand is a combination of quality and design and has proved a hit on the international market. For further details on the brand contact: Ama Agencies on 01280 817448 or e-mail: amaagencies@ btinternet.com
Nadia Minkoff’s autumn/winter 10 collection has been created with a ‘London London’ theme, including many new designs and a seasonal colour pallete. The range of handbags takes inspiration from areas of the capital city – sling bags for Camden, clutches for Sloane Square, wallets for Oxford Street and boho-style bags for Notting Hill. Nadia said: “This range is about the diversity and eclectic feel of London, the unique definition in its post codes and a touch of British humour.” The collection is made up of soft leathers in shades of purple, wine, black, brown and grey with rabbit\fur and crystal stud accessories.
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Kids
Start-rite expands non-school shoe range for 2010 THE autumn/winter 2010 collection from Start-rite includes two new ranges aimed at expanding the brand’s non-school offering for four to eight year olds. These include the new Gola for Start-rite range of training shoes and the waterproof range, Aqua-rite. The girls’ styles have been created with a ‘homespun’ theme, incorporating needlepoint details for a hand crafted look. For boys, the theme is the mid-west, combining different suede and leisure textures. Susan O’Hare, product director, said: “This season’s collection is an exciting one for Start-rite. “Our waterproof range has
been under development for some time to ensure it meets the high standards that parents trust us for and we are delighted that it is ready for the autumn/winter season. “Our Gola for Start-rite range features a great selection for boys and girls that marks our commitment to making a trainer offering part of our range.”
Over 40 styles, 12 colours BABYSHOES carries one of the largest supplies of in-stock continental baby shoes in the UK. It has over 40 styles and 12 colours.
For more information contact Trevor on 0151 280 3049, e-mail: babyshoes@blueyonder.co.uk or visit their website: www.babyshoes.co.uk.
It has next day delivery service (free on orders over £250) but does not have a minimum order. BabyShoes has won numerous awards including winner of the Industry Design Awards 2008 and the accolade of inclusion in the Who’s Who of Britain’s Business Elite. The company has showrooms in Manchester, Birmingham and Glasgow.
Golden collection launched EARLY Days, the Leicester-based baby shoe manufacturer, has just launched a new collection of gold and silver pram shoes and first walkers to add to their already successful Special Occasion range. Also new are white and ivory patent styles with gold and silver detailing with matching insoles. Available from size 0(16) to 6(23), featuring bows, flowers and diamante trims with deliveries starting in April. For more information please contact: sales@earlydays.lts.uk, call: 01162 716944 or visit: www.earlydays.ltd.uk
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Product news J Shoes has been drawing inspiration from the traditional footwear from the Netherlands and Sweden and the clog is staging a comeback in modern proportions for spring/summer 2010. Combining that with a retro feel from the 70s, the brand is introducing its Province range of clog-inspired sandals, in two new upper patters, Bloom and Fern. The J Shoes clog inspired styles feature wood platforms with signature stud tacking, along with simple leather uppers and floral embossed trompe l’oeil design work as details.
Collection aims to attract younger generation ANATOMIC Gel has presented its new autumn/winter 2010 collection to the trade, including a range of new leathers, suedes and styles. The shoes are made with padded ankle supports, smooth internal seams, full anatomic footbeds and sheep leather linings. The brand is sold in over 65 countries including Japan and New Zealand and is also starting a new strategy for the US and Canadian market for 2010.
Leather bag range launched FOR Aura Que’s Autumn/Winter 2010 collection, designer Laura Queening has created a range of high-quality leather bags with banana fibre handknitted panels.
Fair Trade producers and local family businesses for all elements of each product, with the aim of promoting Nepalese materials and ethical production.
The range has been inspired by formal clothing details like men’s braces, incorporated into functional and wearable designs.
The collection includes handbags, clutches, zip purses, shoppers and scarves and materials used in the collection include banana yarn fibre, allo hemp, yak wool, raw silk and cashmere.
Laura works directly with Nepalese
Moema Pimentel, the brand’s creative director, said: “We know that our shoes attract not just more mature men, but also younger men that found it difficult to make the transition to normal shoes with leather soles. We think our new leathers will also attract even more of the younger generation.”
The Sledgers brand is part of Noel Entreprises, one of the strongest French shoe manufacturers, and specialises in quality and comfort shoes for men. After successful launches in many foreign countries, Sledgers is now approaching the UK market. The range features leather uppers and linings and antibacterial, removeable insoles. The brand has also launched the concept of ‘airport friendly’ shoes, which allow the customers to keep on the shoes through airport security. Legero specialises in innovative design and lightweight construction and is now available to order in the UK and Ireland for autumn/winter 2010. The designs are not seasonal shoes, but part of a year round brand, with Gore-Tex membranes that meet the demands of wet or dry weather, in the city or in the country.
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new products A brand new style of shoe, inspired by the laid back lifestyle of Argentina, is being introduced to the UK – Out On A Limb found out more.
Shoe launch takes pair in a new direction JAMES McGowan and partner Douglas Aarvold set up their exclusive Paez UK franchise last summer after discovering the brand while living and studying in Argentina. The shoes were first created in 2007 and are a completely new style, similar to espadrilles and inspired by the traditional ‘Gaucho’ design. James and Doug launched the brand to UK retailers at Pure and received a great response, with orders coming in from stores around the country, from Cornwall to Scotland. James said: “Doug and I had spent time in Argentina a few years ago where we had seen the shoes and always thought that they would do well in the UK. “However, until we took the plunge I was doing logistics work in Dubai and Doug was in commodities training – so it’s a big change for us both. “If you’d asked us eight months ago I don’t think we would have believed this is what we’d be doing – but we are both passionate about the product and the authentic, Argentine way of life it represents.” There are over 60 styles of Paez shoes including an eco shoe made from hemp rather than canvas and a special range of Mini-Paez for children. The canvas uppers are also ideal for customisation, and James and Doug are already planning the launch of a Paez art competition, looking for aspiring designers
A limited number of the winning Hush Puppies Shoeperstar design is now available in Schuh stores. The chosen style, Lola, was created by Laura Berry and impressed the judges by being comfortable enough to cope with a hectic lifestyle, but with a fashionable, modern twist. Laura originally designed the shoes in black and white for versatility, but an additional purple colourway has now been added to the range.
to create a new shoe for the brand’s next collection. The pair will also be setting up Paez painting stations at festivals and fairs throughout the summer, providing plain styles that customers can then draw their own designs on to. James added: “I think the great thing about these Paez is that they aren’t trying to be anything more than a pair of practical and comfortable summer shoes, that people will wear, love and then buy again. “They are also 100 per cent authentic to Argentina and that is really important to us – we want to promote the brand through our love of the country and bring some of that way of life to the UK.” The brand’s fair trade roots are also a big part of the shoes’ appeal and James is planning on setting up a webcam from their internet site directly into the factory, so that customers can see exactly where the product is coming from. They will also be having each pair of shoes numbered, so that the customer will be able to trace their own pair right back to the person who made it. James added: “We are offering stock to stores on a trail basis so that they can see the great reaction they get for themselves, visiting the trade shows, and will be at the London markets throughout the summer – we just want to bring the shoes to as many people as possible.”
New concept collection HUSH Puppies has launched a new concept collection called the Body Shoe. The range for men and women consists of athletic inspired casuals, from sandals to high heels, all featuring a new comfort system. They feature new Bio Bevel technology – a bevelled heel and toe that increases walking efficiency by encouraging an easier, smoother and more natural walking motion.
The shoes’ fit is achieved by using precise moulds that are anatomically correct so that the foot is properly enveloped for comfort. David Bok, vice president of Hush Puppies global product development, said: “With so many brands out there selling footwear that will ‘rock you fit’, ‘put a gym in your shoes’ or ‘wobble’ your health issues away, we saw a need for shoes that are not gimmicky but rather have a real and positive effect on the wearer’s health.” ISSUE 58 APRIL/MAY 2010
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retail review A Yorkshire retailer has found the formula for success with his chain of women’s shoe stores. Out On A Limb asked The Shoe Room’s Steven Bulloch to share his secrets.
Steven’s simple rule is breeding success
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STEVEN Bulloch first saw the business potential in footwear retailing when his wife started work in a shoe shop seven years ago. He was so convinced he could make it work, he left his job in the family’s textile business and the pair opened up their first store in Otley soon afterwards, followed by branches in Bradford and Pontefract. They have now set up their fourth premises in Barnsley, and aim to reach a total of ten stores in the area within the next two years. Steven said: “Our stores have all been very successful and I think that is down to our first simple rule – we don’t borrow and we pay everyone up front before we pay ourselves. “It seems easy, but it is surprising how rare it is in the retail business. “It means that we maintain great relationships with our suppliers, we pay them well, and we reap the benefits of that with good service and prices. Steven’s model is to take on small, efficient units, that result in good turnover and allow the business to remain flexible. Currently all the stores have the same kind of layout and branding and offer a wide range of matching shoes and bags to attract different types of customers. He added: “It is essential to be flexible – you have to be bold if something is not working and be willing to move on and try something new. “For example, I am planning on relocating my Bradford branch before long – not because it isn’t making money, but because it is not growing at the rate I would like and I think we can have more success elsewhere. “This is why I only take on a lease if ISSUE 58 APRIL/MAY 2010
there is the option to break it after two years. “Retailers should remember that things like rental terms and prices are negotiable, especially when things are quiet, and it is possible to take advantage of that.” The average price point for products in the stores is around £30 to £60, although they also carry some more expensive styles for customers looking for something for a special occasion. Steven also maintains a high level of stock turnover, buying in a maximum of 12 pairs of each style before moving on to something new. He has found that a fresher look keeps customers coming back regularly with popular brands including Tamaris, Bourne, Luna, Marco Tozzi and Sketchers. Steven also has no plans to move into online sales, unlike many other footwear stores. He said: “I don’t think e-tailing would work for us. I’m a firm believer in the fact that people like to try shoes on – they are a tactile product and for most people it is important to see them in the flesh. “I feel that moving sales online is the equivalent of opening up another, separate businesses, and if that’s the only way I can make money, then I might as well close my shops down! “We have found a model that works well for us, but it is clear that people are short of money at the moment. “The reason we are still doing well is that we are sensible with money and the businesses that can do this will be the ones that survive. “It is important to remember that there will always be people spending if the price and product are right – its just a matter of finding the right combination.”
Words: Louise Cordell Pictures: Kyle Wilkinson
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News
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If you would like to advertise in Out on a Limb please contact Bev Green on 01226 734288 AGENTS
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News
New funding NEW funding has become available for women in England wanting to sign up for the Society of Shoe Fitters course. The scheme is part of the government’s Women in the Workplace initiative, however the financial support available is limited in comparison to previous years. The course is due to start on 1 October, however, in order to receive a refund for a large percentage of the fee, women in the industry need to apply for the course and funding as soon as possible. To apply, those interested should complete the SSF course application form, which is available online at www.shoefitters-uk.org, and e-mail it to Laura West, SSF secretary, requesting funding details. The financial support will be awarded on a ‘first come, first served’ basis, so anyone wanting to take part should get in touch immediately.
Arjun brings his latest collection to the UK A TRAINER designer is bringing his latest collection to the UK to meet the growing demand for more adventurous styles. Arjun Seth launched his Bamboo A range after deciding that there was a gap in the market for a luxury, lifestyle brand of designer trainers. He said: “I felt that there were a lot of style conscious men out there who take pride in their appearance and want shoes that offer comfort, but with a designer, well-groomed look. “Some styles are sporty and some
are more elegant.” Arjun started his footwear career in Hong Kong working in product development, quality control and marketing for his family’s business Ascot International. After returning to the UK he started designing men’s and women’s shoe for the brand, before the opportunity came up to launch his own styles. He added: “Fashionable styles are much more commercially acceptable in the UK now, but we have had to wait a long time for the market to be ready for what we are trying to sell. “The brand has been popular in many other countries before we could even launch it in the UK – places like Spain, Italy and Australia where they are more adventurous. “We have around 160 accounts in the UK now, and the shoes are especially popular in the North where men seem more willing to take risks with their look.” Despite this development, Arjun has found that his UK buyers are still more likely to take on new styles at least a season later than the other European countries the brand sells to.
Greeper Laces, the shoe lace system, is becoming more and more popular with customers and retailers. The patented shoe laces system has been featured on ITV’s ‘This Morning’ programme and, once fitted to the shoes the laces are easily loosened and tightened and are guaranteed to never come
Nitelife Footwear is a UK company specialising in exotic and erotic footwear for diverse markets including the clubwear and fetish scenes. Owner Brian Irwin had an established background in mainstream shoe and boot manufacture before starting up the company and is now the main UK and European supplier in his field. This year he has plans to expand with the appointment of a new marketing manager, a website overhaul and the finalisation of a new range.
undone. For the retailer they offer a new and added sales proposition at the point of purchase. For the service orientated outlet, the retailer can even offer to fit the laces to the shoes and demonstrate how easy and convenient the laces are and simple demonstrator units are also available.
To cater for this, he has now altered his production schedules resulting in a second, later batch especially for the UK market. He added: “We have also found that it is well worth altering the new ranges we come up with to suit the countries they are going out to.
Arjun Seth
“It is difficult and time consuming to tweak the designs for each different market, but it is important if you want sales to increase and for brand popularity to spread.” Arjun is now hoping to take Bamboo A into more stores and multiples around the UK with the help of a new marketing campaign. The brand has been involved with recent film promotions including Bruce Willis’ Surrogates and Gerard Butler’s Gamer and has now recruited a group of street artists who will be videoed promoting the shoes at account stores around the country.
Caprice are renowned for their comfort footwear and leading innovative comfort technology. Their products are protected by several registered European patents which are the technical conversions of their central idea of ‘Walking on Air’. Caprice customers appreciate the combination of high fashion, comfort and wellness which are essential features of all Caprice products. ISSUE 58 APRIL/MAY 2010
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