01
11/4/11
12:39
Page 1
02
11/4/11
12:41
Page 1
11/4/11
11:24
Page 1
150-year-old retailer keeps the new ideas coming ...
news
03
By Louise Cordell HUDDERSFIELD retailer Shaw and Hallas has been selling shoes to its local community for almost 150 years. The family-owned firm has been established in Huddersfield since 1864 and is currently being run by its fifth generation. Vicky Devlin, managing director, said: “We’ve been going for a long time and a big part of that is down to our loyal customers – I’m not sure we’d survive in another town. “We have also always kept the best quality shoes in stock, even when times have been hard, and that has kept our profile high. “We’ve found that customers want to buy the best, even when finances are tight, sometimes even more so than at other times. “We also really focus on our children’s shoe fitting service – this is about 40 per cent of our business. Parents are always so pleased to find a store that offers this, and especially one that has so much experience and can offer helpful advice.” The store is currently keeping on top of its commitment to customer service by running a questionnaire and prize draw for customers. They are being given the chance to win a free pair of shoes, in exchange for answering questions and leaving comments on what the shop is doing right and what they can do to improve. Vicky added: “We have had some wonderful comments about how much they appreciate our excellent service and knowledgeable staff. “Most of our staff have been with us for a long time – one for over 40 years – so they certainly know what they’re talking about. It puts a nice positive buzz in the shop when staff can see these comments coming in and it is also useful to get feedback that we can take on board and use
News
On right footing in Worthing ... Page 4
Probe into fish pedicures THE safety of fish pedicures is being investigated by health experts after concerns that the treatments could spread infection. The popular spa sessions involve placing the feet in tanks filled with Garra rufa fish that nibble away dead skin. However, the Health Protection Agency is now concerned that this could spread disease from person to person.
Mr Hallas
to keep improving.” The store has a core selection of quality brands that are constantly popular with customers, but also regularly brings in new names and designs to keep things fresh and to keep attracting new customers. Vicky added: “You can’t sit back and get complacent. “Even though we are doing well at the moment, you have to keep looking at new things and coming up with new ideas. It doesn’t take long to let things slip and now we have the sixth generation coming into the store – my daughters have started working on Saturdays – we would like to keep going for a long time to come.”
An HPA spokesperson said: “The Health Protection Agency and Health Protection Scotland are currently unaware of any cases of infection associated with the use of fish spas pedicures in the UK. “Based on theoretical evidence and expert opinion, the HPA deems the risk of catching an infection from a Garra rufa fish foot spa to be very small. “However, following a number of enquiries to the HPA from local environmental health officers, the HPA, Health Protection Scotland and the Health and Safety Laboratory are currently examining the most up to date evidence and will publish practical advice to help both salons and the public to minimise any possible risk in due course.”
Men care more for their shoes
In safe Hands ... Page 7
Celebrating Westwood Page 6 April/May 2011
Mr Shaw
A pair of embroidered lady’s shoes, dating back to 1740, has been sold at Bonhams as part of its Fine English Furniture Sale. The final selling price was £5,560 – far higher than its pre-sale estimate of £12,000. The shoes are made from embroidered yellow silk worked in chain stitch, depicing carnations, tuliips and other flowers, with a broad silk lined tongue and a pointed toe.
3
A NEW survey has revealed that while women own far more pairs of shoes than men, it is men who devote more time to the care and maintenance of their footwear. The study, carried out by One Poll for Cherry Blossom, found that 72 per cent of men own eight
pairs of shoes or less, but 70 per cent of women own between nine and 21 pairs. However, while 37 per cent of men polled clean their shoes at least once a week, only 24 per cent of women did so, and over 30 per cent admitted that they had not cleaned or polished
any of their shoes for at least the last six months. Men are also more loyal to shoe care brands than women, although both sexes put convenience as the major factor when making a purchasing decision.
04
13/4/11
15:04
Page 1
Lisa keeps things on the right footing in Worthing AN INDEPENDENT retailer in Worthing has found success holding seasonal open days to keep customers up-to-date with their latest collections. Lisa Nye has run family business The Footings for seven years and has built up a loyal customer base by specialising in a wide range of comfort shoes. She said: “We try to provide something for everyone and we are now at the point where we can offer seven different width fittings – which is not something many shops can do. “People tend to be very relieved when they track us down, because we are able to spend a lot of time with those with problem feet and find the shoes that are right for them.” Lisa had held a few open days in the past, first when the shop was launched and then again when they moved to new premises. However, following a series of shop closures in the town, she hit on the idea of a change of season event to attract people to the town centre, let people know about new products and to get them excited about shopping at the store. She ran adverts in the local paper, gave out invitations and money off vouchers and provided wine, beers and soft drinks to customers who came in.
She added: “I really wanted to put on an event that would make a splash in the town and give people something to celebrate. “We put on a surprise dip, where guests who purchased something got to pick an envelope with the opportunity to win prizes. “Among other things, we had six pairs of shoes to give away and whenever someone won we broke out a bottle of sparkling wine – so there was a great celebratory atmosphere.” Every visitor was given a goody bag full of sweets, pens, shoe horns and free socks and some of the shop assistants also went out around the town, handing out gifts and vouchers to make sure local people knew about the shop and its products. Lisa added: “It was a really good day and we sold lots of stock - and on top of that, hopefully people will remember the experience and think of us the next time they need to buy shoes. “We will definitely carry on putting on the open days. The aim is to have them in March and September in order to show off the new season’s collections and also to drum up interest in the traditionally quieter months. “It has really worked for us so far and hopefully that will continue.”
Above: The Footings and, below, A customer winning a free pair of shoes.
Reviving UK footwear manufacturing LUXURY footwear brand Cocorose London is doing its bit to bring manufacturing back to the UK with the launch of its Luxury Heritage collection.
Former IFRA president Helen Hook presenting the award to Mike Rowe, Padders MD
The company is passionate about helping to revive UK footwear manufacturing and so, over the past eight months, has been working closely with the British Footwear Association and a traditional, family-run footwear manufacturer in Northampton to produce a range of handcrafted ballerina pumps. The shoes are made using fine leather and have been designed using the comfort technology and custom contouring memory foam from specialists Poron. A spokesperson said: “The
collection was launched at Pure London and received extremely positive feedback from buyers, which strengthened our belief in
the underlying trend that buyers and consumers are looking for British designed and British made products.”
VAN DAL has launched a spring marketing push to help the brand celebrate its 75th anniversary. A TV advertising campaign featuring Mariella Frostrup will run throughout April, highlighting key styles and focussing on the brand’s
Norwich history. The company is also set to reward trade partners, offering shop staff the chance to win a prize package worth up to £75,000, including holidays to the Maldives and Barbados, weekend spa breaks and concert tickets.
Finally, the brand is promoting its Van Dal Vintage collection – a premium range which draws directly from styles first seen in 1957.
Padders’ delight at award success Brand celebrates with spring marketing push PADDERS were delighted to be voted 'Best Men's Brand' for the fifth year running at the IFRA awards dinner in February at The Hilton Metropole Hotel, NEC Birmingham. Padders were also nominated for the 'Best Ladies Brand', 'Best Customer Service' and 'Best Comfort Brand' categories. The awards are presented by the Independent Footwear Retailers Association and voted for by IFRA members.
4
April/May 2011
News
05
11/4/11
12:41
Page 1
06
11/4/11
11:26
Page 1
Shoe design affects child development Winner Loretta Glendinning pictured between runners up Tabitha Duffield and Jo Weston, with judges Antoine Delapierre, left and Ian Cartwright, right.
Loretta’s collection proves a winner MEN’S footwear brand Base London have announced the winner of their ‘Brotherly Love’ competition, run for footwear design students at De Montfort University. The brand had set the students the brief to develop and design a range of commercially led footwear styles aimed at the target markets for Base London and sister brand Fish ‘n’ Chips. The final collections were then judged by Base London’s MD Ian Cartwright, senior designer Antoine Delapierre and brand manager Liz Lawley. The winning collection came from Loretta Glendinning, who produced
a ‘Boardwalk Empire’ inspired range for Base London featuring broguing, buckles and fringing, and a vintage fisherman themed range for Fish ‘n’ Chips, featuring moccasins, deck shoes and espadrilles. Liz Lawley said: “There was a really high standard of work in this year’s project. “There is a clear amount of talent on display within this group and it promises to be a bright future for the British footwear industry.
A NEW research study from footwear brand Stride Rite has revealed how shoe design affects child development.
children’s foot development milestones in order to identify if shoe flexibility should vary for each development stage.
The results show how the construction of a shoe can affect gait, stability and plantar loading throughout different stages of learning to walk.
Researchers examined how different characteristics of shoes affected children’s gait patter, plantar pressures and stability while performing fuctional tasks through an obstacle course – all while wearing shoes of varying flexibility, and barefoot.
The study was conducted over a two year period in partnership with the Temple University School of Podiatric Medicine and the California College of Podiatric Medicine. Dr Paul Scherer, lead researcher, said: “The striking results of this study shed light on the very important but under-researched topic of child foot development. “When we approached the research, the only available information on child foot development was based on opinions nearly 50-years-old.” Its focus was to understand
“We take great pleasure in supporting such a bright selection of students – we feel it is important to encourage the development of the future of our industry.”
They found that children wearing properly fitting, ultra flexible shoes experienced fewer stumbles and falls when learning to walk. Sharon John, Stride Rite president said: “We will continue to collaborate with expert pediatric podiatrists and pediatricians to understand the complexities of children's foot development and work closely with them to achieve our goals of advancing children's footwear through leading-edge innovation.” An exhibition of Vivienne Westwood’s shoes is set to appear at The Bowes Museum as part of a worldwide tour taking in New York, China and Japan. The show has been put together to celebrate the ingenuity and creativity of the British fashion designer, displaying over 40 years worth of her creations. Designs on show will include the Super Elevated Gillie (pictured) in which supermodel Naomi Campbell famously took a catwalk tumble in 1993.
Association unveils new plans to support industry 24-hour footwear channel launched THE British Footwear Association has released new plans to support the industry throughout 2011. Richard Kottler, BFA CEO, said: “At the last BFA board meeting, the directors – who represent the full expanse of the UK footwear industry – were adamant that this year we must give every level of support we can. “The action we will be taking will not be the silver bullet that will neutralise rising inflation, growing unemployment and increased tax burdens, but will also help our members.” The BFA: Has frozen membership fees for the year. Will continue to fund the BFA Foundation Course in Footwear
6
April/May 2011
Technology and build on its success.
Will continue to offer matched funding for any member company wanting to train staff – either using external or internal resources.
Will actively look at ways in which it can support the exporting efforts of our companies. Further plans for this will be put in place once the level of government funding for overseas exhibitions is known. Will maintain the momentum on encouraging the making of more footwear in British factories. Richard added: “We are always actively researching ways of providing even more positive support for our industry and if you have any suggestions we will be pleased to consider them.”
PAVERS Shoes has announced it is launching the world’s first ever 24 hour TV footwear shopping channel to boost sales and brand awareness. PaversShoes.tv will launch on 6 April on Sky channel 659 and consumers will be able to buy 1,000 different shoe brands. If the new project goes well, the company is expecting to take up up to 20 more employees to cope with demand, which will bring total staff nationally to 820. The company forecasts it will increase total sales by 20 per cent, adding about £10m to Paver’s
annual turnover. Stuart Paver, Pavers MD, said: “We have been successfully selling Pavers footwear via several popular shopping channels for many years, so creating our own channel and having complete control over programme content seemed like a natural next step. “Pavers has always prided itself on being an innovative retailer – being one of the first footwear specialists to offer size two shoes and a variety of width fittings – and the creation of the world’s first channel dedicated entirely to selling shoes fosters this ethos.” News
07
13/4/11
15:05
Page 1
Shoe brand firm acquires kids’ retailer By Louise Cordell THE parent company of children’s shoe brand Start-rite has acquired kids’ footwear retailer One Small Step One Giant Leap. James Southall and Company decided to purchase the retail chain as part of its ongoing business strategy – focussing on extending distribution channels and routes to market, both nationally and internationally. The move will see the company gain 100 per cent ownership of the shares in OSSOGL, which has eight stores and six concessions, including one in luxury store Harrods, and stocks a variety of children’s footwear brands, including their own brand Start-rite. Peter Lamble, James Southall and Company’s chairman and Start-rite MD, said: “We see this acquisition as a positive move for both parties involved and are extremely excited about the opportunities it brings. “The acquisition sees the successful bringing together of two companies with complementary
strengths, with James Southall and Company holding strong logistic, digital, product and process capabilities and OSSOGL holding the retail and buying experience required to ensurer continued outlet success. “The purchase of One Small Step One Giant Leap offers our company an efficient way to add a high street presence to the existing wholesale and e-commerce arms of the business and will enhance our multi-channel UK proposition. “The move will also extend the reach of our Start-rite brand, with the One Small Step One Giant Leap network of retail outlets placed in a highly lucrative market for Start-rite, with department store concessions being a strong route to market for our key brand.” There are currently no plans in place to make changes to either the operational or resourcing sides of the One Small Step One Giant Leap business and the retail outlets will continue to be run as multi-brand outlets – leaving current suppliers unaffected.
Shop steps up to the mark A SHOE shop that has been established for over 40 years has now been named Retailer of the Year 2011 by the Independent Footwear Retailers Association. JB Hand Footfitters was taken over by current owners Peter and Diana Elliot in 1997 and they started specialising in children’s footwear in 1999 – becoming Clarks’ second largest specialist independent store in the UK. They put their success down to their many referrals and recommendations from satisfied customers, who appreciate the emphasis placed on News
quality and fit, rather than the store being sales driven. Peter said: “What we have achieved is down to our loyal, long-serving staff, as well as the fact that we offer the expert, hands-on fitting service that parents expect for healthy growing feet – something that can never be achieved over the internet. “We are quite unique in our position outside Stockport town centre and customers are prepared to travel to find us because they know we strive to offer just that little bit more.” April/May 2011
7
11/4/11
11:28
Page 1
Social media can provide many opportunities for independent retailers – the chance to engage potential customers, build brand awareness and receive valuable feedback. However, it also presents unique challenges and it is essential to be selective about which platforms are right for each business and its customer base. OOAL has spoken to three retailers to find out what works for them and their top tips for other companies planning to get involved.
features
08
Social element pays off for Kirstie CUSTARD Designs sells ladies’ fashion accessories and was set up by Kirstie Manning four years ago. She has found that social media can be a great marketing tool for small companies as well as an invaluable source of advice and support from fellow entrepreneurs. Kirstie said: “I have found that Twitter and Facebook are great ways for smaller businesses to publicise themselves. “I think they are much better than standard advertising – especially if you have a limited budget. “We use them to publicise sales, run competitions and to provide discounts for our followers, and this in particular has been very successful for us – we see a marked increase in sales. “It never fails to amaze me how helpful they are – I have met people through Twitter that I now work with, for example my product photographer.
Features
“Also, with the stress and strain of running a small business, it is a great place to get support and advice from others in the same position.”
Social media: special report Page 8&9
She added: “I think that the companies that do well in social marketing are those that don’t just use it to promote themselves, but they use it for the social element as well – getting to know the community and showing the people behind the company.
Patriotic journey Page 15
Show round-up Page 12
8
Kirstie has found that while keeping various sites updated can be time consuming, she can adapt her usage – for example by updating Twitter when she has just a few minutes to spare and using Facebook for longer and more substantial posts.
April/May 2010/11
“Facebook is great for company promotion, Twitter for personal connections and LinkedIn for professional networking – there is an option available for anything you want to do.”
Katy, left, and Julia Grinham
How a luxury brand embraces social media JULIA Grinham and her sister Katy are the brains behind Upper Street – the bespoke luxury shoe label where customers can create their own unique designs and have them made to order. Communication is key for their social media strategy, helping them get essential customer feedback and they grow and develop the brand.
Julia added: “One difficulty we have found is experimenting with how much you can embrace social networking when you are a high end, luxury brand – we wondered what language to use, what to talk about and how. “But we have learned that the most important thing we can do is communicate in the way the customer wants us to.
Julia said: “We currently use Facebook and Twitter and we are really trying to expand that whole area of our company. It is hard to measure the impact it has scientifically, but it definitely builds relationships and helps people engage with the brand.
“They respond best when we are ourselves – they like to connect with the real people behind the brand. We can maintain our luxury image with our products, our price point and our images and still be friendly and open with our customers.
“Facebook is probably the biggest driver of people to our website and we also use it for other things – like a ‘Customer Design of the Week’ page – giving people a chance to share their creations.”
“But it can be tricky and it will be interesting to see what happens with other high end brands over the next few years – because you can’t not embrace social networking – it is just a question of how you do it.”
The brand now hopes to use Facebook to get more feedback from customers on their product development plans - for example the launch of a new ballet flat design due in September.
Upper Street is now looking into how they can move into using more images and video to promote their brand, using platforms like YouTube and Flikr.
This will involve creating a ‘Design Lab’ page where sketches of new ideas can be posted and fans can leave their comments and ideas.
Julia added: “I think these could be really useful for us – our product and process lends itself really well to the video medium – so it is a very exciting time.”
09
11/4/11
11:29
Page 1
Networking is time well spent LIZZIE Leary and Beth Widdowson started footwear e-tailer Kindred Sole after graduating from De Montfort University in 2009. The pair made good use of free online marketing sources to generate business during their startup phase and have built up a following on social networking sites to create a potential customer database. Lizzie said: “We have been trading worldwide since we started and now around a third of our customers are international and that is reflected in our social media. “We have found Twitter is more opinionated and people there feel more free to comment – I think this is because Twitter followers are not necessarily friends, but work colleagues and other industry contacts. “On Facebook people are more reserved and tend to comment on our posts rather than starting conversations themselves and making suggestions. “We like to keep both up to date as
they target different types of customer.” Kindred Sole uses both platforms to advertise its sales, promotions and competitions as well as giving both customers and potential customers regular opportunities to share their opinions. Lizzie added: “All of this gets a great response. “I think offering followers something extra really helps to create the sense of community that you are looking for. “Consumers also like having a voice and this means they come to us rather than another similar site. “The feedback is also valuable to us and we can use it to help us make our buying decisions.” Lizzie has found that social media works better for their company than traditional advertising as it can be specifically targeted and helps to provide measurable feedback. However, there are also downsides, including finding the time to
constantly monitor and update sites in order to keep them fresh and appealing to new contacts. She added: “Social media is not necessarily a quick or direct return on investment – but in the longer term it is definitely time well spent.
“I think it can be beneficial to bricks and mortar stores too, providing they focus on what is appropriate for them – like building a relationship with their local community, which can be just as valuable.”
As the British high street continues to feel the impact of the recession, the internet can be a valuable tool to help retailers face the challenging times ahead. Online social media in particular can increase sales and improve brand loyalty – but getting started can be a daunting step. Steve Harvey Franklin, internet marketing guru and owner of WSI Yorkshire, provides some expert advice on how independent footwear retailers can find success.
Stepping into world of social media RETAIL is changing. In today’s market, customers are savvier and more demanding than ever before thanks to the onset of online shopping and social media, however it’s not all doom and gloom for the traditional British high street. Used wisely, internet marketing can significantly help independent retailers and boutiques to transform their business, boost brand awareness and drive sales. The key is to carefully consider how you are going to use it and understand that once you build an online presence, you need to maintain it and keep it going in order for it to be effective. Create and maintain a website: Even if you’re not planning on selling shoes online, having a website really does provide you with a solid online foundation to work with. You can use it to help promote your shop and latest stock, provide customers with contact details and even your latest news. Make sure that it looks good, is easy to navigate and crucially that it provides the key information that people will be looking for. Keep your website at the heart of your online action, making sure that it’s continually updated. Use social media: The importance of social media to retailers should not be Features
underestimated. Large or small, budget to high-end, all retailers can really benefit from using social media wisely so embrace the opportunities and get on board. Register your shop on popular networking sites such as Facebook, Twitter, LinkedIn and YouTube. Link them to your website, use them on a regular basis and interact with people! Use social media to provide incentives to new customers, promote new stock, provide promotional offers or reward your loyal customers. Be friendly, engage with people, share information and ask for comments and feedback. Make people feel like they’re a part of the action. Also, don’t just think social media is for young people either – most Facebook users for example, are over 25. Maximising social media: Create a Facebook page, these can now be quite sophisticated pages with video and booking forms. Create a Linked in Page (Linked encourages the use of company profiles where individual products and services can be featured and can include offers, coupons, video and images.) Create a group within Facebook or LinkedIn. Target local people in your target
demographic on Facebook and LinkedIn so that your advertising is spot on. Make sure that your regular website has social media links out to your social media sites. Make sure that you have set the privacy settings as open as possible so everyone can view your social media profiles. Don’t use your personal social media accounts, make sure that you have a professional business specific account. Create a Facebook Location and use QR Codes so that visitors can ‘Check in at your store’ and get special offers. Twitter and e-mail can be great for short term offers and the likes of ASOS use this very effectively. For example, if you know that tomorrow
Steve Harvey Franklin is going to be bad weather, and if bad weather depresses your sales, use this to send short one day dated offers to your customers. For more information visit: www.wsiyorkshire.co.uk.
Schuh launches app strategy FOOTWEAR retailer Schuh is branching out into another sales strategy by launching a transactional iOS app. The app has been created inhouse and will give shoppers he ability to buy product on their iPhone, and also to check real time stock at their local branch, track order, find stores, access help and read reviews. The retailer is also planning on launching a mobile optimised website later in the year, which will detect what handset the
custmer is using and deliver a site tailored to that device. Sean McKee, head of ecommerce, said: “We have further exciting plans for developing our mobile offer in 2011 and see progress in this area as relevant to both our core customer demographic and our overall efforts to extend customer choice. “We have no doubt plenty to learn from this initial effort and look forward to hearing what our customers think of our app.” April/May 2011
9
10
13/4/11
15:06
Page 1
Editor’s comment
Out on a Limb cover story
Louise Cordell Editor
Perfect time to make friends .. RETAILERS thinking they can relax after a busy season of visiting shows and ordering stock can think again! Now is the perfect time to start expanding your company’s fan base, increasing the number of customers who think you’re great and will make sure all their friends know it too.
Aiming to win people’s hearts through their customers’ feet licensed partner of W L Gore and Sons and the entire AW11 collection has the Gore-Tex membrane which guarantees that the products are 100 per cent waterproof and breathable. LEGERO Schuhfabrik has its headquarters in Graz, Austria.
One of the best way to do this is online social marketing – Facebook, Twitter, LinkedIn – the possibilities are endless.
Founded in Vienna in 1872 by a traditional master shoemaker during the Habsburg period, the company became a private limited company in 1954.
It might seem daunting at first, but we have it on good authority that once you’ve taken the plunge, you’ll never go back.
The company has expanded further since then, and it now has over 1,000 employees around the world, producing 3.7m pairs per year.
Take a look at this issue’s social marketing feature for advice from the experts and to hear other retailer’s success stories (and words of warning!) If you need more inspiration turn to our special feature on Green Shoes – a company celebrating its 30th birthday thanks to a loyal customer base, or our Retail Review of The Elves and the Shoemaker – winners of a major retailing award just two years after opening. In the meantime, get your online adventures off to a good start by visiting us at www.twitter.com/OOALmagazi ne and letting us know your plans for the summer. We look forward to hearing from you!
10
April/May 2011
Legero develops shoes that allow everyone to move lightly, comfortably and with functional protection. Legero is the casual functional shoe with modern, innovative design and uncompromising lightweight construction. Legero aims to win people’s hearts through their customers’ feet. The slogan ‘My feet’s favourite shoes’ is a reflection of the brand’s philosophy and the company’s ambition to be the preferred casual shoe brand for every occasion.
For AW11, the Legero collection focuses on keeping you protected from the harsh winter elements.
Outside frosty and cold – inside nice and toast The warm inner lining of the new Legero models are combined with Gore-Tex to keep feet dry and cosy.
Full grip you can count on. Legero presents the new Ice Grip
individually. So it offers the right width for every leg, plus a very fashionable look and a high calf that wraps elegantly around the leg. An elegant solution for an elegant look. All styles are offered in English sizing from 31/2 to 9 and can be ordered in free sizes without minimum order quantities, prices are fixed in sterling for the UK. More details can be found at www.legero.at. The UK sales contact is Marcus Baker MSSF, who can be contacted on 07775 995547 or by e-mail: marcus.baker@legero.at
It’s like having snow chains under your feet. Ice Grip – the special sole proven to offer optimal frictional resistance won’t slip and slide even on extremely slippery surfaces. Ice Grip hangs on tight. It offers wearers what all-wheel drive offers to drivers: safety without having to sacrifice comfort. 100 per cent winterproof.
S, M or L? The only boot offering three calf widths
Legero are a Regardless of the shoe size, the calf width of the new Legero Liberty and Trekking styles can be adjusted
Features
11
13/4/11
15:07
Page 1
Ethical production is at the heart of the Green Shoes company in Devon and its eco-comfort philosophy means buyers soon become customers for life. The brand celebrates its 30th birthday this year and OOAL talks to founder Alison Hastie about celebrating survival and success.
Going vintage to mark birthday THE Green Shoes team has been designing and hand-making shoes and accessories at their Devon workshop for 30 years. They offer styles for men, women and children, in leather, eco-tan and vegan ranges and customers can choose their own bespoke foot and leg width fittings for a comfortable fit every time. The company also offers a full resole and repair service, which means that their shoes are rarely thrown away and instead are worn and enjoyed for many years. Alison Hastie, company founder and director, said: “When we started out in 1981 we were very idealistic. “It was before foot-shaped shoes were easily available, and we also liked the idea of handmaking them ourselves – it was about developing skills and taking pride in our work. “There was a ‘have-a-go’ atmosphere at the time – it was during another recession so there was a sense that you needed to take risks and hopefully more young people will be doing the same thing now. “We wanted to focus on comfort and that is what keeps people coming back.
“Although the industry tries to put people into standard sizes, there are still a lot of people who have different sized feet, wider or narrower than the standard, and they struggle enormously – but we can help.” To celebrate its birthday, the brand will be launching a vintage range of footwear and accessories, including recreations of some of its original hand-sewn styles. This year has also seen a range of collaborations, including one with ethical fashion designer Lu Flux who uses traditional craft techniques and is inspired by British folklore. Alison added: “We have always kept to what we do well, and it is coming back into fashion now – it has come full circle and our customers feel that they are discovering it for the first time.
Alison Hastie
it is rare to get that continuity and to be remembered, so customers like it when it is there. “We have made shoes for children who have now grown up and are bringing their own children to us for fittings – in a small way, we are a part of their family history and we take great pride in that.” The brand has found that its resoling option is getting more and more interest and that customers would rather buy fewer pairs of high quality shoes rather than more, cheaper versions. Alison hopes to see a move back towards UK manufacturing to support this trend, but points out that raising money for the raw materials and capital costs can be very difficult.
“We are a small company, but we have a profile because we have been around for such a long time.
In future the brand would like to train up more people, when funding becomes available, in order to help build awareness of the essential hand skills trades.
“I think that it impresses people – longevity is rare in the fashion world, especially if you are sticking to one thing rather than changing to keep up with the trends.
Alison added: “I think that people are becoming more aware of the ethical implications of their choices and the acute sense of over production that we are all facing.
“People also like the fact that they can build up a relationship with us –
“Conspicuous consumerism doesn’t sit so easily nowadays and people want to make more ethical choices. “We get lots of customers who will save up for our shoes – at the end of the day, we can make choices about how we spend our money and people respond to quality.”
Features
April/May 2011
11
12
11/4/11
12:19
Page 1
More international guests head for Pure THIS season’s re-designed Pure has announced its most successful show yet, reporting a 22 per cent increase in visitor numbers compared to February 2010. Figures also showed a rise of 12 per cent in international guests with more buyers from Europe and as far afield as Hong Kong, Australia, Japan and the USA.
New format proves a hit OVER 80 per cent of visitors to the Düsseldorf shoe fairs GDS and Global Shoes were happy with the shows’ new weekday format. The two trade fairs ran from Wednesday 16 to Friday 18 March and it has now been confirmed that the events will also take place on these weekdays in the future. Kirstin Deutelmoser, director of GDS and Global Shoes, said: “82 per cent of visitors were satisfied with the new sequence of days, thereby subscribing to our new concept. We have achieved our aim – more decision makers than before have attended the trade fairs and I have received very positive feedback on the number of international visitors. “Moreover, many retailers returned that had not visited us for an extended period.” Despite this response however, overall show attendance was down by 15 per cent. Organisers attributed this to the fact that fewer owners of small shoe stores and sales assistants visited, who traditionally attend on a Sunday. The new online concept for the show went down well with visitors and exhibitors – over the three days of the trade fair an online team posted tweets in real time and information and images on Facebook. The GDS website was also updated every hour featuring photos and videos of the fair. Professor Rolf Konrad, spokesman of the Mephisto Board, said: “I was positively impressed with the internet lounge and the Twitter wall. This is precisely what people need today. Thanks to our stand being close to the online area we even registered more traffic at the stand because visitors were attracted.” This year for the first time joint awards were also presented as part of GDS. The new ‘Shoe Woman of the Year’ award was presented to TV presenter Frauke Ludowig and the winner of the German Shoe Award 2011 was the company Berkemann from Zeulenroda. Finally, the HDS Junior Award went to Karoline Angné, Karin Davis, Sophie Hetzel and Valerie Porr – all students at Kaiserslautern University. Ralph Rieker, Ricosta CEO and member of the GDS Advisory Council, said: “The Award has existed for some time already, but this time it has been greatly enhanced also by the new category “Shoe Woman/Man of the Year and GDS is the perfect place for this award presentation.”
12
April/May 2011
This year, Pure London at Olympia housed the biggest selection of footwear and premium brands to date, while Pure Spirit moved into Earl’s Court, offering a dedicated young fashion event. Steve Newbold, Pure MD, said: “The launch of Spirit has been well received by the industry – it is the first time Pure has had a dedicated young fashion event. Vintage buses between Olympia and Earls Court worked incredibly well with strong crossover of buyers between the two shows. “Co-locating with Pure Spirit for the first time was the dedicated menswear show Stitch which attracted many key retailers from the menswear industry. With so much on offer between the two venues buyers who came to the show stayed for longer, visiting for a second or even third day.” UK buyers that attended included Fenwick, Harrods, House of Fraser, Debenhams and Net a Porter, alongside key independents like Ark, Republic and Choice. They were able to view catwalk shows and fashion advice from the world of TV, online and high street retailing and attend seminars on topics such as buying advice and future trends from guest speakers including Jeff Banks, Eric Musgrave, Zandra Rhodes and Mark Heyes.
New record in visitor numbers for ISPO ISPO 2011 set a new record in visitor numbers with an increase of more than 25 per cent on the previous year. Over 80,000 industry professionals attended from 106 countries including Italy, Austria, Poland, Spain, Norway and the USA.
Klaus Dittrich, chairman of Messe München GmbH, said: “Ispo has exceeded all our expectations. “In particular the sensational increase in visitor numbers proves the extraordinary significance of ispo in the international sports business.
“Thanks to these results our outlook for the future is positive, a future in which we will network expertise from around the world all year long, and actively endorse developments and trends in the sports business.”
Sending out a positive message ... THE aim of this season’s Moda Footwear was to send out a positive message to the UK footwear industry. Organisers reported an increase in attendance on both the Sunday and Monday of the show, and both established exhibitors and new brands reported positive reactions to their new season’s product. The show, which took place at the NEC, welcomed first time exhibitors including Iron Fist, Deakins, Original Penguin, Bamboo A, Keds, Po-Zu and WedgeWelly. They appeared alongside regulars like Hush Puppies, CAT, Fly London, United Nude, Tommy
Hilfiger, Lelli Kelly and Mephisto. US label Skechers, which returned to Moda Footwear this season after an absence of two years, was particularly pleased with the event. Peter Youell, UK and Ireland MD, said: “Having been away from the show for a few seasons it was great to see how many new names are now taking part in Moda Footwear, and we had a fantastic response to our new fall line.” The show also attracted independent retailers from across the UK and Ireland including Edwards of Manchester, Plum Soles in Derby, Psyche in Middlesbrough,
Oi Polloi in Manchester and Bishops of Coleraine, as well as national accounts including Fenwick, Urban Outfitters and Jones Bootmaker. Sean O’Connor, Moda Footwear event director, said: “The feedback from the show has been excellent across all categories, with both regular exhibitors and new brands reporting healthy orders from high quality buyers. “With a high number of new brand showing this season we had the most exciting line up to date and the variety of brands and visitors served to underline our position as a key event for all areas of the footwear industry.” Features
13
11/4/11
12:43
Page 1
14
11/4/11
12:44
Page 1
15
11/4/11
12:21
Page 1
Sarah Watkinson-Yull has taken the practical route into shoe designing, studying fashion retail, gaining import and export experience and saving up company funds before taking the leap. She has now launched Yull Shoes – a patriotic collection designed to embody ‘style over fashion’.
Patriotic journey ... SARAH Watkinson-Yull started her journey towards becoming a footwear designer at Philip Green’s Fashion Retail Academy – a place tailored towards helping students develop the fundamental skills needed in the retail industry. She then went on to work for her family’s chemical export business, an unusual step, but one that allowed her to gain valuable experience of the import and export process, as well as fund a savings account ready to launch her own company. She said: “It might not be the usual route, but I wanted to save up to get my business off the ground and I would advise any one else to do the same thing if they want to make it work. “At the Academy I learned a lot about retail theory, but I had always wanted to work for myself in the fashion industry and I knew that I was good at designing and being creative.” Now, at 21 years old, Sarah has released her first collection this month through Yull.co.uk as well as continuing to keep up her studies as a business management student at Westminster University. Her first collection has been created using classic shoe designs combined with bright colours and patterns. She added: “I wanted to create wearable and timeless shoes that are hard to find in the existing market – I like classic shoes and vibrant colours, so I wanted to combine the two. “The brand is also very patriotic. I wanted to represent ‘Britishness’ and build the range around English seasons’s and people need for different footwear for our sporting and cultural events.” Sarah is currently selling her shoes through her website and she is on the lookout for new retailers to join her current stockist in Guernsey. She is also adding to her collection, including designing a special shoe for
Features
Designer Spotlight
the homeless charity Shelter that will be sold over the Christmas period, with ten per cent of profits donated to the cause. Sarah added: “I want to be able to add to my range whenever inspiration strikes rather than sticking to a rigid spring/summer and autumn/winter schedule. “I would like to keep a core collection of shoes running long term so that people can find them again if they like them, rather than finding they have been discontinued – I have had this happen to me before and it’s very frustrating! “My aim is to create the shoes that you want, but you can’t find. “I have always found that some very simple, classic styles, which should be easy to source, aren’t, because they don’t happen to be in fashion that season. “It is important to me that my designs are easy to wear and timeless – rather than being something that is worn for one season and then discarded.” Sarah’s shoes are made near Hong Kong, after she used her experience in trading with China from her previous job to track down a factory that would provide the low minimum order quantities she wanted. The shoes are made using materials including leathers, velvet, suede and canvas in order to fit in with her brief to provide comfort and wearability. “She added: “My plans now are to keep growing and getting my shoes out there as much as I can. “I want to stay focussed on British inspiration, as I have had a great response from customers and I really think it has helped generate interest in my designs. I would also like to expand into designing accessories, creating handbags to match the footwear, so I can offer a full Yull package.”
April/May 2011
15
16
11/4/11
12:20
Page 1
Children’s shoe shop The Elves and the Shoemaker has been crowned the winner at the Telegraph’s Best Small Shops in Britain Awards 2011. Out On A Limb found out what the store has been doing to help it stand out from the crowd.
Putting parents and children at their ease KATE Bouverie and Dani Palmarini opened The Elves and the Shoemaker just two years ago, with no previous experience in the footwear or retail industry. They had been inspired to create a store that stocked the kinds of shoes they wanted, but had trouble finding, for their own children. The shop offers a professional measuring and fitting service and sells a wide range of shoes from brands including Geox, Lelli Kelly, Angulus, Primigi and Start-rite. Kate said: “It was a completely new venture for us, but we wanted to set up a business together and we thought that children’s shoes were something that people would always need. “As parents ourselves, we had also often been unable to find the styles
and quality we wanted, especially European brands that we had seen abroad, but not been able to get in the UK. “We also wanted to create an environment that parents and kids wanted to come to – we wanted it to be an exciting and magical place for them.” The shop is located in the small village of Wye in Kent which, while it keeps costs down, means that there is not much passing trade. This means Kate and Dani rely on word of mouth recommendations to attract new customers and on offering the best service possible to keep old customers coming back. Kate added: “Every day we have at least two comments from people telling us that now they have found the shop they are never going
‘There are plenty of toys to play with and we are very relaxed – because we are both mothers we know what it’s like to cope with children when out shopping’
anywhere else. “We know that kids like coming to us because parents often have trouble getting them to leave! “There are plenty of toys to play with and we are very relaxed – because we are both mothers we know what it’s like to cope with children when out shopping. “Parents get stressed out and apologetic but we can put them at their ease – they breathe a sigh of relief when they get to us.” The shop’s success has now received another boost after winning the ‘Best for Children’ category at the Telegraph’s Best Small Shops in Britain Awards 2011 – a competition aimed at finding the best small, independent retailers on the high street. Shops were nominated by customers and the three with the most votes were then visited by a team of judges who selected the winner based on customer service, selection of shoes and environment. Kate said: “It was great to win, but it was especially nice to be nominated, because it shows that our customers appreciate what we are doing. “Providing the best customer
16
April/May 2011 Retail Review
service is very important to us and we think of it as one of the areas where we are outstanding. “I think it is a big part of why people come to us – it is something that they don’t get in bigger shops. “We can’t compete on price, but we can on fitting and the fact that we have time for our customers.” The pair are now working on expanding the shop’s offering, in order to attract a wider customer base. They already sell a range of toys, gifts, cards and wrapping and have recently introduced a small collection of ladies shoes, following requests from customers. Kate added: “We want to be constantly changing and developing. “Our vision is to have another shop at some point, but we have to consider the fact that we are so much a part of our brand that it might be difficult to recreate things somewhere else, we would have to approach it carefully. “We are passionate about our business and our products, and that shows – so anyone we work with in the future is going to have to feel just the same.” Features
17
11/4/11
12:36
Page 1
product showcase product showcase Women’s spotlight Stylish stiletto
Design touches RAVEL has launched its autumn/winter 2011 collection with a range of styles featuring sumptuous fabrics and distinctive design touches. The range includes court shoes with lace, stud and animal print detailing and brogue designs, while platforms, stilettos and chunky heels also make an appearance. The collection also features flats with finishing touches ranging from bows to brooch embellishments in bright colour ways and available in patent, suede and leather. The brand’s boot range is casual with knee high, calf length and ankle options, low heels and military, riding and biker trend inspiration.
Save the soles ...
Product showcase
Keeping one step ahead Page 18
Living and breathing comfort Page 19
Stylish flip is eco-friendly Page 20 April/May 2011
17
THE company that produces the foldable, flat shoes designed to ‘save the soles’ of ladies’ feet after a big night out is expanding under its new ownership and management. Tipsy Feet Ltd, based in Ware, Herts, has taken over the range of shoes that slip into a handbag and relieve tired feet after those stylish yet painful heels have been worn for a party or function. The Tipsyfeet product first appeared in 2007 and the company came under new ownership and management in December 2010, recently launching its new, wholesale-only website. Five existing Tipsyfeet styles from the previous management have been upgraded for 2011, while ten new designs have joined the product roster. The Tipsyfeet come in a patented, colour co-ordinated pouch that unfolds to become a shoulder bag in which the owner can carry discarded high heels and other personal belongings. Mike Irving, the new proprietor of Tipsy Feet Ltd, said: “Tipsyfeet has great branding and the product has built up a significant following during the past three years. The unique selling point is the patented shoulder bag pouch that’s used to carry the ladies’ discarded heels.”
REMY is a brand new heeled style for the autumn/winter 2011 season from Rocket Dog. The platform sole is paired with a slim heel to create a sleek silhouette for this stylish stiletto. The brushed satin cotton upper in gold is complemented with black trim and a matching black fine bow detail to the toe. Combining feminine styling and a delicate trim with contrasting oversized tread on the platform sole, Remy portrays a key influence for the AW11 collection. Remy is also available in black brushed satin cotton with black bow detail. Meanfeet boots are made of quality leather, comfortable insoles and sturdy fittings. We offer a quality range at an affordable price giving the retailer a product that fits in with the needs of today’s consumers. Winter sales for 2010/11 saw Meanfeet establish itself in the market place selling out of most ranges through re-order.
The ‘Rosie’ boot from sheepskin and leather brand, Dominion, is a versatile ankle boot featuring a genuine sheepskin upper with foldover design and feature lacing detail at the back. The durable PVC side stitched sole with feminine profile creates an attractive silhouette and the heat set and shaped heel stiffener reinforces the design in order for to retain shape. Rosie also features cushioned removable sheepskin insoles and for AW11 is available in black, chocolate, chestnut and grey.
18
11/4/11
12:24
Page 1
product showcase product showcase
Men’s trends
Men’s fashion footwear is having to become more original and eye-catching each season in order to compete in a fast growing marketplace. This issue, OOAL hears from Mark Husted, sales and new business development manager at Base London, on what his brand is doing to stay ahead.
Keeping one step ahead ... AUTUMN/winter 2011 is a progressive season for Base London and our sub brand collections, with both now including a more trend led selection of styles that incorporate strong use of wintery materials and clear seasonal colour palettes. Base London takes on far more of a fashion focus direction than previously witnessed; while still maintaining the strong air of commerciality and versatility that is required by the modern day market. The casual collection updates the Base London ‘signature’ styles with the implementation of original leather finishes and colourways. However, as well as keeping the traditional options, we have included a variation of treatments such as suedes and nubucks that freshen up the silhouette. Uplifting details are also incorporated into the designs; including flashes of colour and stitches to liven up the autumnal colour palette. The formal collection provides the
versatility that is required by the market. The current climate needs a shoe that is smart enough to be worn formally yet has an individuality to allow it to be worn outside the work place. To achieve this, smart uppers are combined with highly durable sole units and again the use of innovative leather treatments are clear. Base London’s seasonal story is ‘The Great Outdoors’ and the formal collection aims to capture this without losing its smart edge. The boot collection addresses the wintry requirements perfectly, providing warmth and durability. A strong fashion silhouette is complemented with vintage leather finishes and warming fur lined uppers. It is also interesting to note that the boot selection continues to become a more prevalent part of the Base London autumn winter collections, compared to that of a few years ago.
Fish ‘n’ Chips is Base London’s ‘quirky, younger brother’ brand, and this line also take radical steps for the season. For AW11 the brand is ‘growing up’ slightly; the product’s fun ethos still remains but the overall collection has matured. A clear autumnal palette colours the collection whilst textile and leather combination uppers are very relevant. The Fish ‘n’ Chips collection also has a strong fashion casual silhouette, inspired by music and a fashionable youth culture. For AW11 the product is also treated to a more warming and durable overhaul. Chunky rubber soles and thick fur lined or padded cuffed boots support the
move towards outdoor leisure trends of the season and other areas of the collection incorporate combination uppers displaying strong use of felts, leathers and alternative textiles.
Authorised Service collection unveiled
BRITISH footwear brand Pod unveiled its Authorised Service boot collection at Moda in February, as part of their most comprehensive autumn/winter collection to date. Influenced by the contemporary lumberjack-style trend, the rugged boot line features earth-toned waxed and oiled full-grain leathers,
18
April/May 2011
authentic tartan linings, natural contrast stitch lines and antiquefinish brass eyelets. Key styles across the range also incorporate next season’s essential, the heavy duty commando sole. For more information e-mail: sales@aegisshoes.co.uk or call: 01234 240 440 Product showcase
19
11/4/11
12:27
Page 1
product showcase product showcase Living and breathing comfort ...
Customers don’t want the same old thing ... MEN’S trainer brand Bamboo A are celebrating a successful show season with more retailers than ever taking on the designer range. Designer Arjus Seth said: “The brand is very progressive – it has been popular in the European market and now the UK is starting to get involved. “This season’s shows have been the best we’ve ever had. Customers who are buying into the brand don’t want the same old thing, they want something cool and refreshing. “I think it can be hard for buyers these days to find new brands that provide good quality shoes and original styling. “Our designs also tie in perfectly with current clothes fashions – we have been working that into our new lifestyle shoots, showing people how they can be worn, and they are
Product showcase
Men’s trends
getting on the bandwagon.” The brand now have a new design team on board to develop the new spring/summer range with a brief of creating the ultimate hybrid shoes – commercial but still different to what is currently on the market. Arjun added: “It is a busy time for us, we have recreated our website and we have lots of new supplies on board, we now have suppliers in 15 countries. It is time for us to start pushing our advertising as well – everything is in place and we just want to get it out there.”
THE Maipos, the flagship men’s shoe in a brand new comfort range from Italian boot makers Lomer, is one that lives and breathes comfort. It has everything you would expect from a classic smart-casual men’s shoe. Boasting a hand-stitched Nubuck leather upper and available in a range of natural, earthy tones the Maipos is equally at home at work or play. Because it has been designed and built by Lomer, who understand that performance is an important aspect of footwear design, the Maipos includes a durable Vibram Tubava sole unit. The rubber and EVA construction provides a comfortable, supportive experience that allows you to be on your feet all day.
With the idea that comfort is king Lomer have also selected a transpirable Cambrelle footbed, which helps to keep your feet cool and dry by wicking away excess moisture before discomfort can occur. The Maipos also delivers additional value thanks to the inclusion of a water repellent, breathable Mertex liner. With the vagaries of the British weather this is of obvious benefit for dealing with puddles, heavy rain and any other day-to-day challenges you have to contend with. Weighing in at 700g for a pair of UK 8s and available in a men’s size roll from UK 7 to 12 the Maipos has an RRP of £89.00. For further details visit: www.lomer.it, call: 01539 733842 or e-mail: lomer@dboutdoor.com
April/May 2011
19
20
13/4/11
15:17
Page 1
product showcase product showcase Comfort/Performance
Isn’t it time you got feelgoodfeet? PADDERS has introduced its new autumn/winter Tom G collection featuring Daryl, Drew and Demi. Sophisticated leather pumps with an elegant wedge heel – these shoes are supremely versatile and go with everything from casual to classic clothing. At a trade price of just £18.25
giving you an unbelievable retail of only £45; they have to be the perfect accessory this autumn. Isn’t it time you got feelgoodfeet? For more information call Padders Sales on 01536 534999 or visit: www.padders.co.uk
Flips that are good for your feet ... SOLE was established in 2000, with the launch of its first custom footbed, the Sole Softec Ultra. The company’s goal was to develop a superior footbed, at a price anyone could afford. Since then, they have introduced seven additional footbeds, performancebased socks, and a line-up of orthopaedic sandals. What sets Sole footwear apart is the mouldable, orthopaedic top layer. This layer is made with an EVA blend optimised to mould, which adjusts to the feet over time. The shape of the high-density EVA midsole then supports the mouldable top layer and this structural support ensures that the
orthopaedic benefits are maintained while the top layer is personalized for your feet. Studies have shown that flip-flops can be bad for you if worn too often, for numerous reasons. However Sole’s Sport Flips counter some of the normal flip-flop problems by holding your heel in place with a deep heel cup, supporting the foot arch and using a toe ridge to reduce the wearer’s need to scrunch their toes. Like the footbeds, the Sport Flips are good not only for preventative foot care, but for actively healing such ailments as plantar fasciitis, due to the supportive shape of the top layer and midsole.
Eco-friendly flip proves stylish CASUAL Flips from Sole are fast becoming a champion product in their range of orthopaedic footwear. The Sole Casual Flip is stylish and comfortable and with the cork footbed it’s eco-friendly too. As an environmentally friendly, renewable resource cork is the new, eco fashion material. The Casual Flip has a mouldable footbed that allows 100 per cent of your foot to be supported. Sole's orthopaedic shape, supports your feet from heel to toe, prevents your arches from collapsing, and allows your feet to flex naturally,
20
April/May 2011
optimising natural motion. The Sole Casual Flip also features a gender-specific ergonomic strap made from hemp and other recycled materials. Unlike traditional flip-flops which cause toe-scrunching and a shortened stride, the Sole Casual Flip gives complete support from the tips of your toes to your heels. The soles support your arches at their optimal position, resulting in neutral alignment and balance. This allows for natural gait and helps to maximise the shockabsorption and comfort. Sole Casual Flips are available for men and women in an array of colours priced £55.00 from: www.yoursole.co.uk Product showcase
21
11/4/11
14:59
Page 1
product showcase product showcase
Kids’spotlight
New Zealand label adds ballet slipper to range
FOLLOWING on from the success of their Kina infant booties, New Zealand footwear label Kina Collection have added a ballet slipper and an ankle boot to their range. The ballet slippers are made from New Zealand lambskin and are held in place by elastic ribbon and the Kahu ankle boots are fastened with easy wear velcro.
Durable and chunky back-to-school range
GOLA’S new collection of back to school footwear features a range of school shoe designs and sporty options, including Astro turf trainers, all suitable for PE lessons and after school activities.
Children’s footwear brand Funky Feet have announced that, from this month, they will be producing a new size suitable for kids aged five to seven. The shoes are handmade in the UK, machine washable and feature non-slip suede soles. The brand’s new ‘Sausage Dog’ style has already become one of its most popular designs and the ‘Sir Funkalot’ style is one of the best selling ‘Little People’ range.
The collection features durable chunky sole units, high quality leather and leather coated uppers, lace up options and velcro designs. Detailing across the range includes stitching, pepper pot punching, floral embellishments, heart feature panels and bows.
Flagship China store for luxury label
LUXURY children’s footwear label Step2wo has announced the launch of its flagship store in China. The boutique has been opened in the Chaoyang District of Beijing and will cater for children from newborn to 16 years. Brands stock at the store include Dior and Baby Dior, Sinonetta, Cavalli, Gaultier, Little Marc Jacobs and Paul Smith, as well as the Step2wo own lable footwear collection. Vanessa Bai, CEO of the Beijing Shi Dai Bite Trading Company which runs the Step2wo license in China, said: “We are committed to
Product showcase
providing our customers with, what we believe to be, the highest quality and most exciting range of children’s brands on the market today. “The Step2wo brand in the UK and Ireland is synonymous with quality thanks to their high profile concessions in leading department stores and we are keen to communicate this quality to our customers. “Our customers comprise mainly of locals, many of whom have travelled extensively throughout Europe and are now familiar with the brands we carry in our stores.”
April/May 2011
21
11/4/11
12:32
Page 1
accessories
22
Big names head for Coventry The Mad Hatters' Show, in aid of The Children's Trust, is set to take place in May at the Hurlingham Club in London. This show gives UK-based milliners and designers the chance to show off their latest creations. Milliners taking part in the event include: Victoria Grant, Ziggi, Gina Foster, Emily London and James
Lock and Co, who will be featuring hats designed by Sylvia Fletcher. Also appearing will be Lock and Roll – a new collection of men's fashion hats, DR Chapeaux with vintage hats collected worldwide by Dior and, Louis Mariette, the official milliner of the 2011 Investec Derby at Epsom Downs Racecourse.
Living history launch CAMEL Active bags has launched its five latest bags series for the autumn. All the new designs pick up on the theme of authenticity from the ‘Living History’ collection.
Accessories
Boutique in move to new venue Page 22
New bags carry history theme Page 22
Big names head for Coventry Page 22
22 April/May 2011
THE July edition of Chic, the UK’s dedicated handbag, accessory and travel goods fair, is moving to three new halls at the Ricoh Arena in Coventry. There is an exclusive entrance with parking close by and a luxurious bar, restaurant and toilet facilities. The line-up of brands features some of the biggest names in the industry plus many that do not exhibit at any other UK show. Chic is the only UK show created exclusively for fashion accessories and travel gear where you can order for immediate delivery at the start of the selling season.
The classic Journey has a rough look due to its washed nylon, the Mombasa shoulder bags have a simple leather look, while the Montreal bags are inspired by robust cycle courier bags.
More than ever this has proved extremely successful helping retailers buy precisely what they need by category for the season ahead taking away the risks associated with forward ordering and allows for regular re-orders throughout the season.
The Boston series with functional outer bags focuses on the essentials, including a weekender, backpacks shoulder bags and belt bags and the Montana canvas series is inspired by mountaineering baggage.
Attendance and value of orders placed at the January Chic show were up on previous years according to many of the regular exhibitors and it is hoped that this trend will continue.
Boutique moves to Manchester THE fashion accessory event Boutique by Chic has announced its move to a brand new venue in Manchester: Event City which is owned by and adjacent to the Trafford Centre.
had been answered.
Mark Greenhalgh, the event’s organiser, said: “I have been constantly asked about the possibilities of moving the Boutique shows to either London or Manchester to provide a cool and fashionable destination for buyers to enjoy the whole experience of their buying trip, not just the event itself.
“The main objective with our Boutique by Chic shows has always been to provide the most glamorous buying experience possible and of course provide the UK’s ultimate line up of directional fashion accessory brands at every price point which we personally select from all over Europe and beyond.”
“Since booking the venue the response from exhibitors and visitors has been extremely positive to say the least.
The Trafford Centre “When we heard rumours about the new venue, its size and of course its incredible location it seemed that all our prayers
11/4/11
12:33
Page 1
Cloud computing can save time and money
business + technology
23
By Ian Tomlinson, executive chairman, Cybertill MANAGING busy footwear stores and all that goes with it can be a fraught experience. Ordering stock, staff management, merchandising, marketing, the list just seems to go on and on. On top of this there is managing your EPoS system, doing data backups, loading software upgrades and everything else that goes with it, and this in itself is a full-time job, and of course another cost incurred. This is why retailers should be putting their ‘feet in the clouds’. Cloud computing is the latest technology buzz word and it can save businesses time and money and is especially suited to the retail environment. So what exactly is cloud computing? It refers to applications and software, such as EPoS software, being hosted online rather than being loaded locally on the till points. So why are web-based (or cloudbased) EPoS systems such a perfect fit for footwear retailers? Firstly, they have a lower cost of ownership compared to deploying software locally. So over a three to five year period, a web based system will cost you less. One of the main reasons for this is that upgrades are free and not charged for. This alone will save retailers several thousand pounds over several years.
Business and technology
Cloud computing: the way forward Page 23
Sales top £10m in first year Page 24
April/May 2011
23
One-stop to right factory FOLLOWING the much-needed trend to revert back to European factories, retailers have found that finding the right factory is not easy. A one stop website that lists the factories and shows their ranges – all in one place – has just been launched. Quick, easy access, contact details, help with the language if needed and, better still, no charge for retailers to browse an ever increasing database. Primarily focusing on Spanish factories but with a continually growing list of manufacturers from many countries, www.findashoefactory.com will also show agents and distributors’ ranges to help boost sales. It’s the latest brainchild from Rocca International Footwear, the company that launched The Clear Box ten years ago. The hope is to boost business on both sides. Handbag and Accessories factories will follow and UK manufacturers of any fashion products will be listed for free.
Ian Tomlinson
Arguably more importantly, cloudbased applications, such as an EPoS system, is managed for the retailer. So all upgrades and data back ups are automated and done on their behalf. This means many retailers do not need to employ someone to manage the EPoS system for them, another large cost saving. Retailers can also access a cloudbased EPoS system from anywhere in the world with an internet connection, so retailers can keep on top of what is going on in their
store or stores. Whether they are sat down with suppliers or even at a trade show, they can see what stock is selling in real time as well as check past sales on brands, styles or per location. This accessibility also makes expensive back office servers and computers redundant - another cost saving. Cloud computing also makes it easier for retailers to integrate other sales channels such as ecommerce sites. They all link seamlessly and in real time, as they all run from the same ‘product database’ which is stored centrally online. This means retailers can manage their ecommerce sites from the EPoS system, as they can add and remove products as they wish. Hence retailers do not have to hire a web manager or designer, again this can represent a huge cost saving for retailers. Cloud computing is now more than just a trend, it is saving footwear retailers time and money and making it easier for them to manage their business. Isn’t it time you put your feet in the clouds?
24
11/4/11
12:34
Page 1
Sales top £10million in retailer’s first year A FOOTWEAR and fashion retailer for young women is being held up as an inspiration for new businesses after sales topped £10m in its first full trading year. Mint Velvet was set up in June 2009 and went from a blank sheet of paper to a fully functioning company including e-commerce, own fascia stores and franchises all within three months. The company set-up had to move fast in order to take advantage of a critical House of Fraser partnership in time for the autumn/winter season, so everthing had to be operational by 1 October and able to run as a multi channel business from day one. Stuart Grant, Mint Velvet’s commercial director, said: “If our deadline had been missed, it would have been impossible to trade in House of Fraser stores. “Failure, just being a little late, wasn’t an option – the we would have had to defer launch until January or February, losing up to six months’ trading.” The company teamed up with Retail
24
April/May 2011
Assist as an outsourced IT partner and they delivered the infrastructure across the head office, logistics hub in Milton Keynes, two solus stores and 14 House of Fraser concessions. Stuart added: “In terms of timescales, this is the sort of project you’d be lucky to complete in nine months. But by approaching things in the way we did, we completed it in three months. “We weren’t just talking about a few stores: this was a fully operational business, including warehousing, head office, all infrastructure, all ecommerce - what really set the project apart was the aggressive pace at which things had to happen.” Mint Velvet’s first three months of trading were a success and the company rapidly expanded with a second wave of openings in spring 2010 that doubled the size of the business. This included 20 additional House of Fraser concessions, three Fenwick concessions and an outlet in an independent store.
One year on, the company was able to report sale of over £10m and the autumn/winter season saw them expand to a total of 62 outlets, moving into John Lewis in the UK and Menarys and Arnotts in Ireland. Stuart added: “After launching successfully and emerging as a credible, fully formed, fully operational retailer, our IT and logistics solutions means that we could easily open second and third waves of stores – because we had started out with a platform scalable for growth, no radical changes were needed.”
Business and technology
25
13/4/11
15:09
Page 1
New president for Society of Shoe Fitters BERNARD O’Brien has stepped down as president of the Society of Shoe Fitters after two years in the role. He passed on the chain of office to the Society’s vice president, Jan Parry, and in an outgoing speech, called on members to continue getting involved in the organisation’s work. He said: “I cannot believe how quickly the two years have flown by – it has been an honour and privilege.
TV and radio host Frauke Ludowig was named Shoe Woman of the Year 2011 at this season’s GDS. Judges said: “In terms of fashion Frauke always follows the latest trends without forgoing her own personal style. “She excels at highlighting her stylish outfits with elegant, often extraordinary shoes and has quite rightly been elected Shoe Woman of the Year by the jury because she has a strong affinity with shoes – she loves shoes more than anything else!”
“The council have done an excellent job in running the show during my term and I wish to thank each and every one of them most sincerely. “We really need members to play an active part – without the Council the SSF can’t continue, so my message to retailers is: Don’t be a shy violet, we are all a friendly bunch and it is amazing what you can learn at meetings about the trade and it’s ‘going’s on’!
“I have met some truly wonderful people while on council and being president, so I really would like to thank our hard-working tutors, our members and especially our much needed associate members, old and new.”
Bridal:
Performance:
Summer Shows:
Looking at future trends in the ever popular bridal market and what retailers can do to attract these high spending customers. See the best new footwear styles and accessories to stock up for success.
New technology keeps driving the performance footwear industry forward - OOAL takes a look at the latest developments in walking, fitness and all terrain footwear.
Previews for this summer's shows including Home and Gift, Chic, Bread and Butter and Pure – get the news on the best exhibitors set to appear at these events.
Contacts Sales
Editorial
Design & Production
Tony Barry – Sales & Marketing Director
Andrew Harrod – Group Editor Judith Halkerston – Group Deputy Editor Louise Cordell – Editor Christina Eccles – Reporter Dominic Musgrave – Reporter
Stewart Holt – Studio Manager
Beverley Green – Sales Manager (bg@whpl.net) Advertising Contacts Tel: 01226 734456 Fax: 01226 734477
Editorial Contacts Tel: 01226 734694 Email: lcordell@whpl.net
“It seems crazy to me that podiatrists recognise the skill in fitting and the need for qualification more than our own industry. “On the retail front trade has been very difficult; however we must persevere and do all in our power to provide the best fitting service we can – this is what differentiates us from the pack.
Coming up in the next issue of Out On A Limb:
(tb@whpl.net)
“The SSF are also committed to forging stronger links with the Society of Podiatrists and Chiropodists with a view to up-skilling all members who wish to enhance their footwear knowledge, so there are some exciting times ahead.
(sth@whpl.net)
Kyle Wilkinson – Design & Production (kw@whpl.net)
Circulation 01226 734695 (24 hour hotline) Email: circulation@wharncliffepublishing.co.uk
diary dates Pure Olympia and Earls Court, London, 7 - 9 August 2011 (www.purelondon.com) A showcase of over 800 directional womenswear brands, young creative labels and footwear and accessory collections. Stitch Menswear Earls Court Exhibition Centre, 7 - 9 August 2011 (www.stitchmenswear.com) Stitch is the UK's only dedicated menswear and accessory trade show, a key meeting point for brands, buyers, press and retailers. Moda Footwear NEC, Birmingham, 14 - 16 August 2011 (www.moda-uk.co.uk) Moda will include a seminar programme which will be free of charge to all visitors and exhibitors. The Moda catwalk show will present an overview of the seasons trends, providing an insight into key looks. GDS Messe Dusseldorf, Germany, 7 - 9 September 2011 (www.gds-online.com) Highlights will include high fashion labels from international brands and the children’s footwear marketplace. Other events will include fashion shows, trend presentations and trend vision.
April/May 2011
25
26
13/4/11
15:19
Page 1
RETAIL SOLUTIONS
365 From as little as
ÂŁ365 per year you can
advertise your products and services. For further details contact: Bev Green on 01226 734456 email bg@whpl.net RETAIL SOLUTIONS
To advertise in classifieds please contact Bev Green on:
01226 734 456 FOOT CARE
TRAINING
27
11/4/11
12:45
Page 1
28
11/4/11
12:46
Page 1