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Women ‘buy 469 pairs of shoes in a lifetime’ By Louise Cordell RESEARCH has revealed that the average woman will spend over £16,000 on shoes during her life and has 19 pairs stored away at any one time. A study found that women buy their first pair of shoes at age 14 and then go on to purchase seven pairs a year for the rest of their lives – a total of 469 pairs. Spending £34.99 on average every time means that they will eventually fork out £16,410.31 over a period of 67 years. However, the study of 3,000 women also found that shoes are bought for a purpose, rather than as impulse buys. The average female owns three pairs of heels for formal functions and special occasions and usually has six pairs of flip flops, sandals, ballet
pumps and wedges for the summer months, and three pairs of warm boots for colder weather. In addition, they have four pairs of dressy footwear for nights on the town – such as stilettos and kitten heels. Finally women have two pairs of sensible work shoes and another two 'random' purchases. The study, by Gocompare.com, also revealed one in four women own at least one pair of designer shoes – while 53 per cent wish they did and the most in demand labels were Jimmy Choo (61 per cent), Christian Louboutin (42 per cent) and Manolo Blahnik (29 per cent). Finally, four in ten women said they judged other women by the shoes they wore and a third said shoes were the one thing they could not resist buying, regardless of whether they could afford them.
Label to open Brighton store FOOTWEAR and accessory label Irregular Choice are set to open their first store in Brighton this July. The property is a 300 sq ft, twostorey building on Bond Street with decor featuring prints, 50s’ Asian lily pad carpets and sci-fi cyber ceilings. The second floor will reveal a mirrored staircase, carousel bunny wallpaper, floral mosaic tiling and flashing perspex shelves. These will display the latest season’s styles, while a seating area will be stocked with Manga toys, customised My Little Ponies, trucks, trolls and puzzles found by brand founder and designer Danny Sullivan. He said: “As it is our home town, it felt natrual to open here. And what with Brighton being such a great culture for individuality and creativity, it was an easy decision. “Add in the amount of tourists Brighton attracts and it is a great hub for an Irregular Choice store.”
Actress Sarah Jessica Parker in Salvatore Ferragamo heels
Celebrity pulling power WOMEN’S brain activity changes when they see a celebrity endorse a pair of shoes, according to a new study. A team of Dutch researchers scanned the brains of 24 women as they looked at pictures of celebrities and attractive non-famous contemporaries wearing certain pairs of shoes. Their results led them to conclude that the increasing advertising trend for celebrity endorsement could be a successful move. When the women were shown a celebrity, the researchers recorded heightened activity in a part of the brain associated with feeling affection and an increase in memory performance – but the same was not observed when they looked at the non-celebrity pictures. However, contrary to expectations, the number of women saying they would go out and purchase the shoes did not alter significantly between celebrity and non-celebrity photographs. But the researchers stressed there could be a longer term impact, even if there was not an immediate desire to buy.
A decade of change THIS issue we are celebrating Out On A Limb’s 10th birthday and our last 60 issues have charted many changes in the industry. The world of footwear has become increasingly fast moving and retailers have had to work harder to keep up with changing trends and the growing influence of celebrity fashion. Competition has also become more widespread, with the boom in internet retailing, an increase in budget brands and the need to cash in on secondary spend. However, many retailers have risen to the challenges and are becoming more successful than ever, even in difficult times. To help everyone keep this up for the next ten years, this issue OOAL is bringing you the latest legal and business advice, to help independent store owners stay one step ahead. This includes an in-depth look at the new Budget and how a VAT rise and changes to NIC will affect sales and purchasing. We will also hear from design and marketing experts for the best tips on using your store’s appearance to create an enduring reputation and maximise profits. Finally, we are looking forward to seeing as many readers as possible at this season’s shows and hope that you will come to see us at Moda (Stand T26) to share your news and views.
Industry losing out in recession FOOTWEAR has lost out in the recession with a declining share of shoppers, according to new market research. How Britain Shops: Footwear 2010 pulls together an overview of the shopping habits of consumers, examining who shops for footwear, where, whether they are satisfied with the current store and what stores should do to satisfy customers more.
The results show that when people are shopping on a budget, shoes are an area where they hold back, with the worst affecting being men, 16 to 24s and the 35-44 market. The report revealed that the top three players in the footwear market remain Clarks, Marks and Spencers and Next, who have all recovered after suffering from a decline in visitor numbers in 2009.
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Contents COVER STORY
Issue 60 August/September 10 Flaunting the hues E-tailer adds accounts
NEWS
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ISSUE OF THE ISSUE
Why first impressions count
NEWS
Stars take a stand
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NEWS
Shoe interchange
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Tony Barry - Sales & Marketing Director Beverley Green - Sales Manager (bg@whpl.net) Advertising Contacts Tel: 01226 734333 | Fax: 01226 734477
Editorial
New signings for Moda
PREVIEW
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Sales
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Andrew Harrod - Group Editor Judith Halkerston - Group Deputy Editor Louise Cordell - Editor Christina Eccles - Reporter Emma Spencer - Reporter Editorial Contacts Tel: 01226 734694 | Fax: 01226 734705 Email: lcordell@whpl.net
Design & Production
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Spoilt for choice
KIDS
Stewart Holt - Studio Manager (sth@whpl.net)
Kyle Wilkinson - Design & Production (kw@whpl.net)
ACCESSORIES
Clutching at vintage
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Circulation 01226 734695 (24 hour hotline) Email: circulation@wharncliffepublishing.co.uk
Hush Puppies go loud and proud HUSH Puppies gives its old brownshoe image the push as the brand launches its SS11 collection that is bold, beautiful and above all colourful. Colour is never out of fashion and the new season is set to be all about flaunting your hues. Loud and proud colour combinations make for a dynamic, confident look and Hush Puppies is making a statement with a SS11 collection awash with rainbow shades.
Women’s: The SS11 collection combines Hush Puppies relaxed styling with bright, brighter and brightest colours. The palette for the season sends the colour-wheel into a spin with a huge array of colour to choose from. Key fashion colours are sprightly Daffodil, spicy Firecracker, Verdis Green and Federal Blue. Wedges steal the show this season and work well with the intense colour palette. Styles feature trademark Hush Puppies styling with reverse-butt-
seam stitching and crafty trims and finishes that include wooden buckles and trims and pinhead studs that achieve a raw and casual edge.
Men’s: The Hush Puppies men’s range has been revitalized by the new season’s colourful story. Taking inspiration from the nautical trend that has been prevalent on the Spring catwalks Hush Puppies incorporates it with the brand’s signature style to create features many new styles that encapsulate a new theme for Hush Puppies which
is the idea of ‘Lounge’ shoes. Lounge is key for the men’s collection with many styles featuring formal uppers with traditional brogue detailing or wingtips as seen in Asuka but combining these with supple slim-line soles and super-soft and distressed leathers mean they take on a effortless cool that is so right for the season.
Children’s: Hush Puppies kids range for SS11 is all about fun – new funky styles with lots of colour! Hush puppies Fit Left Fit Right Unique Kids fitting system continues to go from strength to strength and most closed-in most styles feature the fittings to ensure maximum comfort and healthy development of growing feet. The back to school range retains its most popular styles while new silhouettes and upper patterns can be seen to include the holy grail of trying to please teen girls and mums alike – a fitted ballet pump. Sales contact: Andy Cockayne 0207 860 0100
www.hushpuppies.com/uk
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The world's first £100,000 gold and diamond stilettos have been launched by bespoke jewellers, House of Borgezie. The Eternal Diamond design has been created by British
designer Christopher Michael Shellis, with each pair hand crafted from solid gold and then encrusted with 2,200 diamonds – totalling 30 carats. The shoes feature a removable heart shaped sole and
New accounts added to footwear e-tailer TWO new accounts have been added to Europe’s largest women’s footwear e-tailer. VivaLaDiva.com will be stocking the full collection from up and coming Scandanavian designer Marta Jonsson, which has previously been available in just two boutiques in the UK. Produced in Portugal, the collection has a fast production turnaround and will now be available nationwide. The site is also set to start working with directional label, Rakish Heels, which produces stylish footwear featuring quirky painted designs. Debbie Lord, general manager at VivaLaDiva.com first spotted Rakish Heels in a consumer fashion
Rakish Heels
magazine and came across Marta Jonsson’s designs while browsing the internet. She said: “I think both brands will be great additions to our extensive range on VivaLaDiva.com. “Rakish Heels are individual and quirky, which is something our customers love to buy from the site. “The footwear from Marta Jonsson is made from the softest leathers and I’m sure that when a customer buys her first pair, she will be back for more.”
Pure and simply the best The show came top in the ‘Best show over 2,000m2’ category in recognition of the February 2010 event.
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Life’s a Breeze with latest acquisition By Louise Cordell
retailers in the UK – Breeze.
AN award-winning independent retailer is celebrating the acquisition of its first North East store.
“We hope to be able to serve the customers who have been so loyal to Breeze founder Paul Ward for the last 23 years.”
Exclusive Footwear has taken over one of the most exclusive boutiques in Newcastle upon Tyne, Breeze Shoes on Shakespeare Street. The business will now be re-branded over coming weeks and takes the expansion of the York-based chain to five outlets. Exclusive Footwear offers designer footwear for men, women and children both in stores and online and was the brainchild of Newcastleborn Frances Chalmers. Founded in 2005, the company has been a consistent award-winner for its e-commerce activity, being named Fashion Entrepreneur of the North at the Grazia O2 X Awards in 2008 and a finalist in the Drapers 2010 Eretailer of the Year category. Frances said: “I have been on the lookout for the right location for our next store and have now found the perfect spot.
Marta Jonsson
PURE London has been named as the Best Trade Show at the latest AEO Awards.
heel, which can both be replaced when they start showing any signs of wear - meaning that the shoes are sold with a 1,000 year guarantee. Pictures: Simon Winnall
organisers achieved impressive financial and performance results.”
“It just so happens, that we have the great fortune of being able to blend our business with one of the most historic and well respected footwear
Frances has achieved an exceptionally fast growth rate with Exclusive Footwear since the business’ launch, with a 47 per cent growth rate in the last year, and this latest takeover will allow her to expand even further, as well as create three new jobs. She added: “Whilst our whole business model was founded on an e-commerce offering, we still believe that the combination of bricks and mortar with online is the winning method. “This, combined with the strength of a retail outlet positioned off one of the most prestigious streets in Europe, is a winning combination. “We are delighted to have this opportunity and look forward to taking our designer shoe collections to the people of Newcastle upon Tyne.” Designer brands that will be stocked in the new Exclusive Footwear – Newcastle store include MBT, Stuart Weitzman, Hunter Wellies, Steve Madden, Oliver Sweeney, Jeffery West and Pucci.
High heels step up to help cancer fight
The show put several new initiatives in place at the event, including the launch of Label, a re-edited Footwear section and new content seminars.
HIGH heels are being used to help fight cancer with the launch of the second High Heel-a-thon.
The February show also attracted the largest number of visitors yet, increasing by 23 per cent year on year, with exhibitor number increasing by 13 per cent.
The event is set to take place on September 26 in Leeds’ Victoria Quarter and is being held in aid of leading charity, Yorkshire Cancer Research.
The team joined stilt walkers in pink high heels in the city centre for the launch and wore feather boas and stilettos to help raise awareness of the event. For 2010 registration costs £10, or £5 for students, and the walk is open to all – men, women and even dogs.
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Katy Perry’s shoes
Stars make a stand with shoe donations HIGH profile celebrities from Katy Perry to Alan Shearer have donated their shoes to an auction being run by a landmine clearance charity. More than 60 famous faces have made contributions from their wardrobes, all in aid of raising funds for the Nobel Peace Prize-winning Mines Advisory Group. Footwear featured in the auction includes great British comedy styles from Michael Palin and Eric Idle, some ‘Absolutely Fabulous’ wellies from Joanna Lumley and stylish Prada brogues from Victoria Wood. Music lovers will be able to bid for heels from Katy Perry, Little Boots, Pink or Nelly Furtado and fans of Strictly Come Dancing can compete for Bruno Tonioli’s boots.
because often it is people’s feet that are most at risk from landmine blasts and all the stars donated to stamp a link between shoes and the dangers that lurk beneath them for millions worldwide. “All of these small gestures have the potential to transform peoples whole lives and we are really grateful to all the celebrities who answered our call. “Some of the shoes have clearly been well loved, others have been well decorated and all of them will give the winning bidder the chance to walk in their favourite celebrity’s footsteps.” For more information on the auction, or to place a bid, visit: www.maginternational.org/boot.
Long-time MAG supporters Elbow have also signed a pair of classic Converse, and former Smiths guitarist and Manchester legend Johnny Marr has donated a one-off pair of Nike trainers that he has decorated himself. Finally, following the World Cup, fans of former England strikers Alan Shearer and Gary Lineker could now own a signed pair of their football boots. Zoe Corden, MAG’s Give Landmines the Boot organiser, said: “We have been totally overwhelmed by the support we have had from celebrities who have given up their shoes to help those affected by conflict. “MAG chose to run a celebrity shoe auction
Joanna Lumley’s footwear
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Redfoot teams up with Minnie FOOTWEAR company Redfoot has teamed up witih Disney to produce a foldable footwear range based around ‘Minnie Mouse’. The new limited edition collection will feature four styles, each with an individual Minnie Mouse designs. These include a diamante face, small gold or black ‘Minnie’ studs and a glitter
outline and all will be available in the UK, Europe and the USA. Gerry Walker, sales director, said: “The success of our earlier ranges encouraged us to seek out celebrity partners. “We are delighted to be working with Disney’s first lady, Minnie Mouse – her timeless appeal lends itself to this great design, combining cuteness with practicality.”
The highs and lows of high heel wearers By Louise Cordell UK researchers claim to have found out why women who often wear high heels can find it painful to wear flat shoes. A study has shown that the calf muscles of frequent heel wearers have muscle fibres that are 13 per cent shorter, on average, than those of people who have avoided high shoes. The research, published in the Journal of Experimental Biology, also found that high heels led to stiffer tendons in the calf and concluded that some time spent wearing lower heels combined with stretching exercise would help to combat these negative effects. To carry out the research, Professor Marco Narici, from Manchester Metropolitan University, worked with a group of 80 women. From these, 11 were selected who had regularly worn five cm heels for two years or more and who felt uncomfortable when walking in flat shoes.
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Initially an MRI scan showed no difference in the size of the calf muscles in the heel wearers compared with a group of women who wore flat shoes. However, an ultrasound scan revealed that the muscle fibres were actually shorter in the women who wore heels. They also found that their tendons were much thicker and stiffer and Professor Narici concluded that this can cause discomfort when walking on flat feet because the tendon cannot stretch sufficiently. He said: “Fashion is intended to be uncomfortable and none of the women in the study planned to give up their high heels. So we want to give practical advice and I would recommend just doing a few stretching exercises to counteract some of these changes. “One useful tip is for high heel wearers to stand on tip toes on a step, and using a handrail for balance to lower their heels as far as they can before raising them up again.”
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Pregnant mums are ‘sacrificing foot health’ By Louise Cordell PREGNANT women are risking their feet in the name of fashion by wearing the wrong types of shoes, according to experts. The Society of Chiropodists and Podiatrists carried out a poll of 1,000 pregnant women and found that many regularly wore ballet pumps, flip flops, high heels and Ugg boots. However, podiatrist Lorraine Jones from the Society claims that none of these shoes are suitable because they offer so little support. The survey showed that half the women felt under pressure to keep up with the latest celebrity trends, but seven out of ten admitted to suffering from foot problems including swollen ankles, swollen feet and arch and heel pain. The society is now urging women to wear supportive, wide fitting shoes to minimise discomfort and avoid long-term damage. Lorraine Jones said: “Weight gain and hormonal changes in pregnancy have a huge impact on the body.
“Muscles and ligaments soften and stretch because of an increase in the ovarian hormone relaxin, which makes your feet more prone to ankle and ligament strains on a daily basis. “High heels alter your posture, shorten your calf muscles and place increased pressure on your back and knees. “In pregnancy this places extra pressure on your joints when they are already under strain – which can result in a host of foot, leg and back problems and could increase the likelihood of falls." As a rule, she says women should opt for three cm heels as they shift weight a little further forward on to the feet, which can help alleviate discomfort, and if they must wear hight heels they should only do so very occasionally and at events where they will not be on their feet for too long. She also advises women to choose a shoe with a strap that keeps it firmly on the foot and with a toe box that is high and wide enough to fit comfortably – either rounded or square shaped, but not pointed.
Shoe dates back to 17th century A SHOE dating from the 17th century found in a box under a bed on the island of Canna is now being carefully preserved. The National Trust for Scotland has said that the artefact was so rare a storage box has been specially made to conserve it. The mule was found with a label with the words: ‘Queen Mary's Slipper’, however, experts have
dated the shoe to after Mary Queen of Scots was executed. The well-worn shoe was discovered in the former home of Margaret Fay Shaw who, with her husband John Lorne Campbell, gathered one of the largest archives of Gaelic culture. The slipper was made from satin, silk, leather and metal and has been dated to between the 1640s and 1660s.
Waste warning after shoe store is fined £6,000 FOOTWEAR stores are being warned to pay careful attention to how they handle their rubbish after a Leeds based shop had to pay out over £7,000 for not dealing with its waste. Aldo, based on Commercial Street in the city centre, was fined £6,000 and ordered to pay £1,452 costs at Leeds Magistrates Court after admitting failing to contain its trash. Patrolling environment officers found uncontained waste from the store on three separate occasions last November and on the third visit they found that, despite repeated
warnings from council officials, waste was laying on the floor when the store’s bin was only a quarter full. Councillor Tom Murray, Leeds City Council’s executive board member for the environmental, said: “All businesses have a duty to ensure their waste is correctly stored and disposed of, and that bins are not allowed to overflow or remain uncollected for any length of time. “We are rightly proud of our city and will take action against those who do not seem to share our pride.”
A new type of insole that offers customisable support has been launched in the UK. The OrthoSole has been developed by Dr Martin Trautman, a podiatry advisor to world famous sports stars including Usain Bolt, Boris Becker and Michael Schumacher. It has been designed to improve weight distribution and alignment using a system of
removable support pads, allowing it to be tailored exactly to its wearer’s needs. The sole features a heat and pressure sensitive Poron Urethane layer, which conforms itself to the shape of the foot to result in a personalised fit and a heel chassis helps to stabilise the ankle joints during foot strike to guide the foot from heel to toe during every ground contact.
First anniversary for comfort shoe specialist COMFORT shoe specialist Josef Seibel is celebrating the first anniversary of its flagship store in Covent Garden. The shop has seen its sales grow throughout the season and, as a result, the group plans to roll out an increasing number of stores across the UK. Martin Ingram, UK and Ireland MD,
said: “We have been delighted with the warm reception that we have received since we opened our flagship store last year – the Josef Seibel groups collections have been a huge success. “The Covent Garden store is our only stand alone, full priced outlet in the UK and we want to thank the public for continuing to support us in making the first year of our London
store a success.” The Covent Garden store showcases the range of eco friendly products which show the brand’s commitment to environmental consideration, including recycled active carbon footbeds which are breathable and anti bacterial and an ergonomically designed comfort footbed with an integrated flex rolling system.
Martin added: “The footwear industry has seen a huge demand for well made, stylish footwear as consumers move to buy quality brands that stand the test of time over ‘throwaway’ fashion. “The comfort sector in particular has performed strongly through the recession and our expanding range is evidence of that.” ISSUE 60 AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2010
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Pam swaps loaves for loafers ... AFTER spending years working in her family’s bakery business, Pam Jenkins was looking for a new challenge. So when the company was sold she decided to put her retail expertise to good use, but this time indulging her passion for footwear. She said: “I had always been interested in fashion and I really thought that there was a gap in the market for nice shoes in Edinburgh - so I thought I would take a chance and make the most of my retail knowledge. “It has certainly been a steep learning curve, but everything has gone really well and the business has grown year on year.” The store stocks high end brands including Christian Louboutin, Jimmy Choo, Rupert Sanderson and some slightly lower price points including Kate Spade and Pretty Ballerinas. It also carries coordinating handbag lines from Christian Louboutin and Jimmy Choo and other accessories including umberellas from Guy de Jean and Kara Ross jewellery.
Pam Jenkins spotted a gap in the market for luxury shoes in Edinburgh and her store has now been named Independent Footwear Retailer of the Year at the Drapers Footwear Awards. Out On A Limb found out more.
Pam added: “Although our stock is very high end we have not really been affected by the recession. “In fact, our sales are up over 20 per cent on last year, so things are still on the rise. “I think this is because although people are not buying as much, they still want quality. “I find that people are saving up and buying one good pair, rather than a few less good quality pairs – but everyone still wants nice shoes.” The store is now finding new success through its online sales, with the launch of a retail website last October which has been going from strength to strength. Since it went live, sales through the site have already increased by 130 per cent, and are now coming close to matching sales through the store. Pam added: “The website has been very popular, but there will always be people who prefer the personal touch and I think the success that the store has had is down to the service we provide. “I always try to make coming into
the shop a nice experience for customers and I think about what they might like to see and experience. “For example, if we get a new delivery in and there are shoes that I think a certain customer might
Leather shoe uncovered in Armenia dates back 5,500 years THE oldest example of a leather shoe has been discovered by archaeologists in a cave in Armenia. At 5,500 years old, the well preserved cow-hide shoe pre-dates Stonehenge by 400 years and the Pyramids of Giza by 1,000 years. It was made of a single piece of leather and was shaped to fit the wearer's foot, according to researchers, who have published details of the discovery in the journal Plos One. The shoe also contained grass, although the archaeologists are uncertain as to whether this was to keep the foot warm or to maintain the shape of the footwear.
Dr Ron Pinhasi, lead researcher, said: “It is not known whether the shoe belonged to a man or woman, as while it is small – a European size 37 – the shoe could well have fitted a man from that era.” The shoe was exceptionally well preserved thanks to the cave’s cool and dry conditions as well as the fact that the floor of the cave was cover by a thick layer of sheep dung, which acted as a solid seal over the objects. Dr Pinhasi added: “We thought initially that the shoe was about 600 years old because it was in such good condition.
Dr Ron Pinhasi, department of archaeology, UCC, with a photo of the world’s oldest leather shoe
“It was only when the material was dated by two radiocarbon laboratories that we realised that the
shoe was older by a few hundred years than the shoes worn by Ötzi, the Iceman.”
like, I will giver her a call to let her know they are in. “It is more like a personal shopping service, and people appreciate it as we have many customers who come back time and time again.”
‘Father would be impressed’ AN American footwear company has teamed up with the son of legendary writer Ernest Hemingway to create a branded line of shoes. The Oregon-based firm, Thomas Raymond and Co, is producing a batch of 30,000 pairs of Hemingway shoes, handmade in El Salvador using bison and calf hide and divided into ‘angler’, ‘literary’ and ‘sportsman’ collections. Patrick Hemingway, the late writer’s 82-year-old son, has claimed that his father would be impressed with the designs. He told his local paper, the Bozeman Daily Chronicle: “Hemingway was very fond of loafers. “A lot of celebrity endorsements are phoney, but not in this case. Hemingway had a great sense of style and he especially loved leather boots from Madrid.” ISSUE 60 AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2010
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Interchangeable shoes Twenty-five years after coming up with a design for a new type of footwear, Yvonne Michael is finally launching her interchangeable shoe brand, Popperoo. Out On A Limb found out more:
Endless looks from new type of footwear NooShooz specialise in unique, high quality ladies interchangable footwear, with shoes handmade in Brazil using leather, silks and suedes. All of the Nooshooz range have interchangeable uppers, allowing the wearer to change the colour of the shoes to match almost any outfit. The UK company designs all its shoes in-house and the range includes sandals, heels, wedges and flats. Bernie Hurst, designer and creator of Nooshooz, said: “Like most ladies, I love my shoes, however it is a real pain trying to pack lots of pairs into your luggage when going on holiday or on a short break. “That’s why Nooshooz are the ideal solution, freeing up valuable space but still leaving you with a range of shoes to match any outfit, and the colours of the uppers change each season to keep up with current trends.”
THE design of Popperoo shoes allows the wearer to personalise the colour, heel height and style of their footwear, using just one base. They have been created so that all tops fit all bases, resulting in a wide range of designs, put together with different colourways and accessories. Yvonne Michael, brand creator, said: “I first started thinking about the idea of an interchangable shoe over 25 years ago. “Different designs came to me over the years and after a lot of development to make sure I got things just right, I was granted a patent using this fastening mechanism in 2000. “I had created it to be hard wearing, but also very easy to change and simple enough to fit in with any design. “It was then a matter of coming up with the full range of styles and getting the shoes into production.” Yvonne had previously worked in soft furnishing design and put her expertise into creating and promoting a collection of uppers that would work with any outfit for any occasion – even
winning the approval of Lorraine Kelly and Richard and Judy in a series of TV appearances. She added: “The good thing about Popperoos is that the uppers are not only interchangable, but they will all fit any sized shoe. “This is totally unique and means that friends are able to swap different designs with each other, even if they have different sized feet, as well as cutting down on production and sales costs. “My aim has been to simplify the design as much as possible and this shows, as with just two upper designs and three accessories, you really can create endless looks. I am looking forward
to bringing out a lot more colours and patterns to really provide a different look for everyone.” Yvonne is currently selling the shoes through her website, at events such as Polo matches and at shoe parties, and plans to move into wholesale for independent retailers within the next year. She added: “I have had a really fantastic response from customers. “Everyone who has seen and tried the shoes has loved the idea and have also been impressed with how comfortable the shoes are. “My aim now is to give as many people as possible the chance to try them.”
The Onesole interchangable shoes were created by pharmacist Dominique McClain Barteet and aim to combine fashion and comfort. The designs come in a range of heel heights and uppers can be personalised with monogramming in thread, hand embellished with Swarovski crystals or even customised with a reproduction of a favourite photograph. A new line of ballet flats that can be customised with a ‘snap-on’ accessory is the latest creation from designer Lindsay Phillips at Switchflops. The decorative ‘snap’ designs range from diamante and jewels to sequinned flowers
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and minimalist metallics, with the aim of runing casual daywear into evening accessories. The pumps are made from Italian Napa leather and are available in three colourways: black, silver and bronze.
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Fishing for extra revenue? By Louise Cordell THE latest spa trend from the Middle East is being hailed as a possible solution for independents facing financial difficulties. The natural pedicure treatment is provided by Garra Rufa fish and has been practised for over 400 years in Turkey. During a session a customer will put their feet into a tank full of the fish, which will nibble away at the dry skin, leaving soft and healthy feet. They also stimulate acupuncture points, helping to regulate the nervous system, increase circulation and reduce fatigue. Sue Taylor is a director at Silky Soles, a company that provides Garra Rufa spa equipment and franchise opportunities. She said: “We are currently working with around 40 different outlets and most are companies who are already in the ‘feet’ business and are using the spa treatments as a bolt on. “It has been very successful for them, because even a two-seater spa can add around £50,000 turnover. People are always looking for the next big thing so it is good for businesses to be able to offer a point of difference. “The process has massive health
benefits, so we are working with companies like podiatry clinics as well as salons.” During the treatments, which are recommended by podiatrists, the fish get rid of hard skin on heels and soles and can also assist with treating psoriasis and eczema. Silky Soles are also working on developing complementary products that can be used after the fish treatments, which will then be available to stores to sell as an extra add-on. Sue added: “I think it would be a fantastic option for independent footwear stores, and in fact we are getting ready to team up with a big footwear brand at the moment. “I think the idea has a lot of potential, it doesn’t take up a lot of space, fits in with the message of taking care of the feet, and can bring in a whole new demographic and lots of new customers for the store. We have had really positive feedback from the companies who have got involved so far, and we don’t just provide the tanks, we aim to provide the whole service including a specially produced manual and a telephone advice line. “We want any new treatment providers to have as smooth a ride as possible.”
Best known brands distributed across the country BELSTANE are proud to distribute some of the best known brands across the equestrian and country market and cater for all footwear needs. Muckboots:
The Full Monty Harlequins:
As well as being 100 per cent waterproof and very light and flexible, Muckboots offer more warmth, comfort and support than you will experience with any other footwear. The neoprene will stretch to fit almost any calf and can be rolled down for ventilation in hot weather and for easy hands free removal. A wide range of general and specialist wellies and shoes are available.
An incredibly fun, fashionable welly in a range of beautiful colours at an amazing price.
Superlites: Superlites are ideal for those who dislike the clumpiness of traditional wellies.
With a plain ‘hunting style’ top in black or brown, elastic insert and gently padded lining, the Harlequins inject something completely new into the footwear market.
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They are made from one piece of EVA, a polymer that is waterproof, self insulating and highly durable but is also soft, flexible and incredibly lightweight. The boot will mould to the wearer’s foot over time and support it all day.
With a range of heights, colours and soles to choose from, there is a style to suit every requirement. For more information call: 01335 372600, e-mail: info@belstane.com or visit: www.belstane.com.
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New signings set to mix with Moda regulars NATIONAL trade fashion event Moda has announced brand new signings in the run up to the show. Recent additions to the footwear line-up include Levis, Ben Sherman, One True Saxon and Mel by Melissa. These will join brands making their debut at the show, including Kickers, Tommy Hilfiger, Geox, Dkode, Victoria Delef, Berkemann, Florsheim and Nagore. The rest of the section will feature returning names, ranging from Terra Plana, Xti, Scholl, Start-rite, Tieker and Rocket Dog, to Josef Seibel, Hush Puppies, United Nude and Cat Footwear. On top of this, the Accessories sector at the August show will be introducing Bulatti, Lido Pearls, Radford Accessories, BiBi, Nashelle and Spanish label Volum. These brands will line-up alongside regulars such as Suzy Smith, Passigatti, Mint, Pia Rossini, Big Metal and Chartage.
Show organisers have also announced a new line-up of seminar programmes, workshops and other events for visiting retailers. Social media expert Chris Middleton will discuss how to use social networking sites to give businesses an advantage, and provide information to get even the most Facebook-phobic person social networking. Retail guru Thierry Bayle, meanwhile, returns to Moda determined to dispel the myths for retail failure and ex-Olympic athlete turned retail performance specialist Dennis Reid will reveal how to engage staff to deliver exceptional service while maximising every sales opportunity. Seminars will be taking place on the Sunday and Monday of the show, while catwalks showing the key looks from across the show’s sectors will take place at regular intervals throughout the three days.
Gant Footwear has reported a 70 per cent increase in repeat business in the UK market, following the launch of their Never out of Stock package for the spring/summer 2010 season. The package included best-selling styles like the Joyrider loafer for men, available in a wide range of colours and materials, and for women, the Serena boat shoe which was a huge success story. Never out of Stock is also available for this autumn/winter and will continue forward to spring/summer 2011.
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Espadrille marching back ONCE traditional Pyrenean peasant footwear made in Catalonia, Espadrilles have always been easy to wear and stylish, having flexible soles made from jute and colourful cotton uppers. Featuring in many designers’ collections for SS11 these versatile shoes have grown in popularity and are now made in a whole array of designs and patterns. This upbeat summer trend is the ‘must have’ summer accessory for
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the festival season and a wonderful opportunity for you. Get in to the rhythm next season with Padders’ fantastic Espadrille and Canvas collections and celebrate the excellent margins you’ll be making on these appealing and profitable shoes. Parade to Padders at Moda (Stand Q10, Hall 19) and join in the party, visit: www.padders.co.uk/trade or call Mike Rowe on 01536 534970 for more details.
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Comfort and fashion advancement THE new spring and summer collections from Josef Seibel again show continued fashion advancement to ideally complement the comfort element by which the brand has built its reputation. Style highlights from the women’s collection include new material choice, new colours, character sole units, removable footbeds and an increased variety of heel heights.
In the men’s collection, highlights include the all-terrain sandals combining good looks with function, durability and comfort. Urban comfort features, with interesting sole units combined with stitch detailing on waxed nubuck and fabric uppers as well as nautically influenced shoes in natural coloured soft leather uppers.
Vintage from Van Dal THE Van Dal brand is gearing up to celebrate its 75th anniversary and to celebrate it has created a brand new vintage collection, based on original
designs. Styles dating back to 1957 have been selected from the brand archive, recreated and relaunched for this season. The designs have also been given a new contemporary twist with a new colour palette ranging from soft pinks and creams to taupes. Styles appearing in the vintage collection include a peep toe heel with bow trim and a suede wedge with stitch detailing.
Spanish inspiration for collection For the S/S11 season Neosens have created a fresh, bright collection inspired by the Rioja region and their Spanish heritage. The new collection takes on various key themes including romanticism and nature, both of which are set to be notable trends for the season. The shoes are finished in unique ways, each with a subtle difference, including hand brushed leathers, natural and dyed leathers and romanticised embellishments, using a wide range of tones and colour palettes inspired by the natural beauty of La Rioja.
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New collection reflects essence of the brand The title of the new Camel Active 2011 spring/summer collection ‘Authentic Heritage’ reflects sociopolitical topics that are currently in the spotlight. From one angle it is about ‘Heritage’, which is an allegorial word for the stories, history, values and traditions that are handed down and ‘Authentic’, which is used to convey the values of the heritage into the present. We relate to our roots and our history and use them as a guide for the present. This is the same guide Camel Active uses in the new collection. It reflects precisely the particular materials, colours and styles that are the essence of the brand, while generating strong brand recognition.
Moda seminars are announced MAXIMISING the potential of social networking sites, driving performance through effective leadership, lingerie fitting and guiding your business through uncertain economic times are all topics on the agenda at August’s edition of Moda, which takes place at the NEC Birmingham on 8-10 August. Chris Middleton, MD of social
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media expert Eskimosoup will offer a whirlwind tour of Facebook, Linked In, You Tube and Twitter to reveal the things you need to know to make them a successful tool for your business. Get it right it’ll save you a fortune – get it wrong you could do irreversible damage. Former Olympic athlete and coach turned retail performance specialist Dennis Reid, meanwhile, will
discuss how to upskill your staff and help them deliver exceptional service while maximising every sales opportunity. Gillian Proctor, of De Montfort University’s Contour Fashion Course, is one of the most influential women at the grass roots of the lingerie industry, as well as a fitting specialist offering retailers training. She’ll be discussing the
importance of fit as well as the do’s and don’ts of correctly fitting bras. Last but most definitely not least, meanwhile, is retail expert Thierry Bayle of Management One, who will reveal up-to-the-minute information about the challenges facing businesses in light of the subsequent measures announced in the emergency budget.
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‘Well-being’ is Important for feet THE Legero Superfit brand aims to take responsibility for the wellbeing of your feet as its main focus in its new UK & Ireland collection for SS11. The first area to be thought of is the first walking shoes for sizes 18 – 28 which have soft nappa chrome free linings in its new ‘Nature’ group which have been labelled with a green brand logo to make it easy for the customers to recognise the new group. GORE-TEX Surround – This is new technology from a brand partner who have developed a system to allow the sole of the foot to breathe while still being 100% waterproof by introducing a open area in the sole unit of the shoe. This technology is available in both
children’s and adults’ footwear from Legero Superfit. Removable insoles – Products have always had removable insoles and for SS11 we have created a sandal group for Ladies with this feature, this will allow consumers to use their own orthotics and enjoy the summer season without being restricted by their choice of footwear. BOA – This is a lacing system which allows the wearer to fasten the shoes to give ultimate comfort and support using a wire and disc system developed by the BOA company. The collection can be seen at MODA on stand U21.
‘Making exercise comfortable’ THE Body Shoe is the latest concept collection from Hush Puppies and features a new comfort system that aims to encourage the wearer to walk by making it easier and more comfortable – Out On A Limb tried it out:
The range is made up of several different, athletic-inspired designs from sandals to heels, but they all feature Hush Puppies’ new ‘Bio Bevel’ technology. This means they have bevelled heels and toes, which increases walking efficiency by encouraging a more natural walking motion and the designs are also produced using anatomically correct moulds, so that they fit the foot like a glove. Hush Puppies are aiming to offer something different to the other fitness shoes on the market, focussing on making exercise comfortable and enjoyable rather than on weight loss or toning claims.
OOAL gave the Vinya sandal and test run and, on first impressions, the shoe certainly doesn’t look like the traditional ‘comfort’ design. However, as soon as they are on the feet the moulded shape means you feel like you’re wearing slippers. Wearing a pair of these, there is definitely no excuse for missing out on a long, healthy walk due to sore feet, and they even make a visit to the gym more bearable.
Quality leather at competitive prices THE MeanFeet collection is aimed at giving the retailer a product that competes with other brands on price, quality and design. MeanFeet provide a selection of well designed leather boots with stock availability to call upon, the units are eight pairs per pack with sizing starting from 37 to 41 mainly in black but some selections are in tan also, starting prices are from £31.95
to £39.95 per pair, giving retailers chance to offer quality leather boots for less than £100. MeanFeet boots are manufactured to very high standards and are fit tested for the UK market. For more information contact: Bryan Willows Telephone: 01924 491411 E-mail: bryan@bryanwillows.plus.com or zbalmain@btconnect.com Web: www.zoeandbryan.co.uk
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Kool for Kids features Kids at Moda
Fresh new look to spring/summer 2011 THERE is a fresh new look to Startrite’s spring/summer 2011 collection of children’s footwear, to be launched at Moda in August. The range includes an all-new, fully machine washable canvas collection; cool sandals in fresh, spring colours; washable pre-walkers and attractive first shoes, as well as stylish out-ofschool shoes and smart school footwear. From pink and blue to orange, lilac and khaki, Start-rite’s colour palette for the season is fresh, vibrant and truly of the moment. Styles come in a choice of whole and half sizes and different width fittings. Start-rite has also enhanced its exclusive range of Gola for Start-rite fitted trainers for girls and boys. The size run has been increased to L51/2 for most styles and strong new colourways have been added across the range.The new collection will be showcased on stand T30 at Moda. Also on show will be a pretty collection of girls’ shoes in new party colours and patent finishes. Perfect for the festive season, these styles will be available for pre-Christmas delivery. For more information on the range, and to contact your local business manager, please call our customer services team on +44 (0)1603 595200
Excitement for kids; quality for parents A NEW Star Wars inspired children’s footwear collection has been launched by Stride Rite. The range, part of a multi-year licence with LucasFilm includes shoes inspired by characters from the films and animated television series The Clone Wars. Sharon John, Stride Rite president, said: “The addition of the Star Wars collection to our product assortment
provides kids with exciting new shoes based on some of their favourite characters and gives parents the quality and fit they trust. “The Star Wars by Stride Rite collection features the most memorable heroes and villains of the Star Wars universe and is designed to inspire a whole new generation of fans.”
New distribution partner announced STARCHILD, the UK manufacturer of soft leather baby shoes, has announced a new distribution partner for Sweden. Steven Bryant, the company’s export sales director, said: “The phenomenal success that we achieved in Finland with our distributer Pohjolan Laatutuote has led us to expand their operation into neighbouring
Sweden, with plans for Denmark and Norway before the end of the year.” Tommi Varuhin, owner of Pohjolan Laatutuote, added: “We are pleased to announce that we have now opened the Swedish store Toffelhjalte, so let's hope that we have the same success in Sweden that we have in Finland.”
Survey considers baby walkers START-RITE has conducted an online survey in order to find out how parents encourage early walking. The research, carried out by podiatrist Emma Supple, revealed that only 22 per cent of parents chose to let their baby’s walking development occur naturally, without any intervention.
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Instead 65 per cent provide push along toys and walkers or even rearrange their furniture to help their toddlers make their way around the room. This may be because over a quarter of parents also admitted that they felt very competitive about their child walking before any other kids of the same age.
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Kool for Kids featuring Kids at Moda
Spoilt for style choice LOOKING ahead to next spring, children will be spoilt for choice with styles from the new Norvic collection. Norvic has a rich heritage in the children’s footwear market, creating quality children’s footwear since 1908, so it comes as no surprise that the collection at Moda will be a must-see.
Podlers: with little feet in mind FEET huggable Podlers have been designed with tiny tots' little feet in mind, made with super-squashable leathers, breathable linings and lightweight and flexible rubber soles. New for spring/summer 2011 and premiering at Moda is the Podlers rainbow rubber toe-cap featuring in both boys' and girls'
collections – perfect for mischievous toddlers. Following the success of their springsummer collection, Pod are also continuing to develop their sporty new Ringo range. The collection features natural Crazy Horse leathers, distressed leather trims and earthy seasonal colours. Development of the distinctive lightweight rubber sole has given the Pod collection a contemporary alternative to Pod's usual signature style. As well as a boys' and men's sizes, Pod have expanded the range into XL sizes. For more information call: 01234 240 440, e-mail: sales@aegisshoes.co.uk or visit: www.pod-footwear.com
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Traditional girls’ and boys’ styles have been modernised with the creative use of colour, textures and embellishments. A number of the girls’ styles feature in vibrant berry shades of fuchsia, raspberry and ruby red, adorned with ribbon, sparkle and embroidery. For those who wish for something more simplistic, a colour palette of cream, mink and pale pink leather can be seen on a selection of designs that are also applied with cute floral and butterfly trims.
For boys, a classic colour combination of beige, brown and navy has been applied to shoes, plimsoll trainers and sandals. Key details on the boys’ styles include distressed leather uppers, studding and contrast stitch patterns. In addition to the main range, the Norvic ‘Sweeties’ collection that was launched at the last Moda Footwear show continues to surprise and excite consumers. Two new flavours have been added to this exclusive collection for girls; strawberry and black cherry, bringing with them delicious scents and sparkle. Visit Norvic at Moda and take a glimpse at all the new styles available. Stand P29 (within the Lotus stand). For further information please phone: 01604 593600
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Kool for Kids featuring Kids at Moda
Toughees put the boot in with new styles ... TOUGHEES have been a hit with retailers this August with new contemporary styles and genuine breathable leather uppers. Toughees school shoes are South Africa's number one best selling school shoe brand and have been available in the UK since 2009. With podiatrist approved styles, encouraging strong foot development, UK retailers have
welcomed Toughees, so that they can offer choice and good value in the school shoe market. New this season are Toughees Fashion, styles with more contemporary design, and Toughees Colours, brown and navy school shoes. Coming soon in September are Toughees fleece lined wellies, in red and yellow with a warm fleecy lining to keep feet warm and dry.
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News Copycat fashions are moving faster than ever, making it harder to protect original ideas and emerging designers can be among the worst affected. OOAL hears from Dids Macdonald, CEO at Anti Copying In Design, about what brands and designers can do to protect their creations.
How to stand up to the copycats Shows: The most important thing for designers to remember at shows is to identify what Intellectual Property rights you have and what practical things you can do to protect them. Shows are often the place when brand new designs are exhibited for the first time, making them particularly vulnerable. Designers and brands should have an IP policy that is put on to marketing materials and websites, making it clear that any infringement will be taken seriously. Cameras, mobile phones and video cameras are all a problem and many show organisers have a no photography policy, which can be helpful. But even if there is no overall policy, there is nothing to stop individuals making ‘no photograph’ signs for their own stand. This is not to discourage legitimate photographers from registered publications, but gives control back to the stand owners and puts them in a position where they can decide who can and cannot take pictures.
Designer’s rights: “The majority of designers in this country rely on unregistered rights - this means that if you create a design that is new and has original features, you automatically have unregistered rights over it.
That lasts for 15 years in the UK but only for three years in the European community. If companies can afford it we recommend creating registered designs. There are two types, a UK registered design and an EU community registered design. The EU community registered design is protected in 27 member states for 25 years, renewable every five years. However, often the decision comes down to cost – for example if a designer has 11 or more new designs to register then the price is around €60 per design. A lot of new designers can’t afford that, putting them in a difficult position. It is a complex subject and many companies will not be in a position to fight any infringements because of the cost implications, so the important thing to focus on is prevention and deterrance from a position of awareness.
Industry impact: “We live in a world where there is perpetual innovation because people are trying to beat these copyists – but this doesn’t always alllow new designs to reach their full market potential. When you think about the work that goes into creating a new range it is very unfair if they are copied immediately. It is an increasing problem.
Styles from high end designers like Jimmy Choo are often copied on the high street
We have helplines and they are ringing all them time, because companies feel very alone and they don’t know what they can do. There is always an upturn in copying in a recession because people want the fast track to market, but this stifles originality and we end up with blandness in the market place.
the moral rights to their creations? We have a lot of talent in this country and it is important to support it, rather than letting it die. Anti Copying In Design is an international member organisation committed to fighting copyright theft within the design industry.
Why not commission new designs rather than copying them?
Members are provided with unlimited use of a Design Data Bank to give dated evidence of the origination of designs, specialist IP advice, use of the ACID logo to help deter copyists and access to a hotline for information and advice.
Or think about partnerships and licensing deals, giving the designer
www.acid.uk.com Helpline: 0845 644 3617.
British footwear designers have a deservedly good reputation and it is time that major high street retailers started respecting what they bring to the table.
Awards to recognise good deeds
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As part of its G2 range, Chatham Marine will be launching three new men's designs, in a mixture of colours, on a new sole unit at Moda. For women there will be two new designs, on the existing Chatham sole unit, in a choice of feminine colourways. Chatham will also be exhibiting its new ISSUE 60 AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2010
spring/summer 2011 collection for the Life and Sports footwear ranges for men and women. The brand offers a two-year guarantee on all styles featuring G2 after their name, which come with rot proof threads, rust proof eyelets, a moccasin construction and hand-stitching.
THE contribution that UK retailers make to charity are to be recognised by the new Business Charity Awards. The event has been created to reward those companies that have shown leadership and commitment in forging relationships with the voluntary sector. Stephen Cook, organiser and Third Sector editor, said: “There are hundreds of retail businesses in the UK that do fantastic work for charity and we thought it was time to celebrate and honour their achievements. “Judging is based on a range of criteria so I really would encourage businesses of all sizes to enter.” Competition categories include:
The Business Charity Champion award for the business leader who has done the most to harness corporate support for charity. The Best Employment Scheme for the company that has done the most to help a charity through training and work experience. The Outstanding Individual award for the employee who has devised the most innovative way for their company to support a charity. The best Event for the company that has organised or sponsored the fundraising event which has done most to benefit charity. The Employee Engagement award for the company that has done the most to engage its workforce with the voluntary sector.
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News A landmark court ruling has come as a blow to brands trying to prevent their trademarks being used by competitors and conterfeiters. An industry expert explores the implications:
Protecting fashion brands online By Sandi Simons, Head of the Fashion Group at Harbottle and Lewis THE long running battle between brand owners and Google is over for now. In a much anticipated decision, the European Court of Justice has said that Google is not liable for trademark infringement in allowing advertisers to purchase keywords corresponding to the trademarks of brand owners as part of the Google AdWords program. The ECJ has handed down judgment in the cases including Google Inc v Louis Vuitton, which finally addresses the legality of third parties purchasing trademarks as keywords for online advertising. The decision is a blow to brand owners who sought an easy and effective mechanism to prevent their trademarks being made available for use in advertising by both their competitors and by counterfeiters.
Background: The ability of goods companies to distinguish themselves from their competitors and protect their brands is dependant on its ability to maintain its trademarks, by preventing others from using them. Louis Vuitton in particular, as a wellknown luxury goods and fashion brand, has now spent many years fighting to protect its trademarks. One of their major concerns is the Google AdWords program, where its trademarks are made available to be used as keywords in online advertising. The Google AdWords program is a system whereby companies, individuals and website owners can choose to purchase particular terms to use as keywords as part of their
advertising campaign. Keywords are words (or phrases) that internet users may type in when conducting a search in a search engine, such as Google. The effect of purchasing a keyword is that whenever users of Google search for that particular word, an advertising link to the website of the company that has purchased the keyword, accompanied by a commercial message, will appear next to the search results. Neither the advertisement, nor the link, will necessarily incorporate the keyword term. By way of example, a footwear firm could purchase ‘fashionable’ as a keyword. It would follow that when someone searched Google for ‘fashionable footwear’, an advertising link to that company’s website would appear. Use of ‘fashionable’ as a keyword does not, of course, give rise to any trademark issues. Objections to the AdWords program stem from the fact that Google will not prevent trademarked terms from being purchased as keywords by third parties that are not the trademark owners. In this case, Louis Vuitton objected to its trademark ‘Louis Vuitton’ being used as a keyword. The result is that anyone, from competitors to counterfeiters, can purchase the trade mark as a keyword to use as part of their advertising campaign to enable their advertising links to be placed next to the search results whenever internet users perform a search on the basis of that keyword.
Louis Vuitton have no control of that use. Rather than having to pursue each advertiser individually, Louis Vuitton and other brand owners sought to challenge Google as the source of the unlawful use of their trade marks and brought cases against Google and its AdWords advertising program for trademark infringement. Numerous cases were brought in different jurisdictions as well as different courts. The result was an assortment of divergent decisions – some courts siding with Google, while others upholding the brand owners’ complaints – and little clarity. In Europe, it was clear that only the ECJ could provide necessary guidance.
The decision: The ECJ took the view that, on a strict analysis of the legal requirements for trademark infringement, Google was not liable. It said that although Google created the technical conditions necessary for advertisers to use others’ trademarks and was paid by its clients for the use, that did not mean that Google itself was making the necessary ‘use’ of the trademarks which is required for there to be infringement. However, very importantly, the ECJ did recognise brand owners’ struggle to protect their trademarks from misuse on the internet and provided relief in other areas. In particular, the ECJ said that brand owners may, subject to certain conditions being met, prohibit advertisers (rather than Google) from advertising using the brand owners’ trademarks as keywords.
There is no requirement for the trademarks to be used in the body of an advertisement before the proprietor is entitled to prohibit such use. Instead, if an advertisement does not enable a normally informed and reasonably attentive internet user to easily determine where the goods or services originate, the advertiser, who is using another party’s trademark as a keyword which links to the advertisement, may be liable for trademark infringement. What does this mean for fashion brand owners? Online advertising is particularly relevant to the fashion industry where more and more branded goods are being sold and purchased over the internet. Fashion brand owners therefore must be increasingly vigilant to protect their brands and reputation by distinguishing their products and image from competitors and counterfeiters. Although this decision does not provide a short-cut for fashion brand owners seeking to prevent the unauthorised use of their marks in online advertising programs, the ECJ did provide support in the fight against advertisers who use others’ trade marks as keywords. It is hoped, therefore, that advertisers will be far more cautious in their online advertising campaigns and, perhaps, reluctant to bid on well-known fashion brands. Nevertheless, the onus remains on brand owners to police their trademarks to prevent any unauthorised use, particularly use in advertising on the internet, which is such an important sales medium for companies today.
App becomes UK leader in six weeks AN iPhone app launched just six weeks ago has become the UK’s leading independent fashion download after clocking up more than 10,000 users. The app is a spin off from TheFashionPixie.com, a website which pulls together fashion sales, deals and discount codes from over 300 high street retailers and online brands onto one online portal. Nicole Snape, founder of TheFashionPixie.com said: “We have more than 5,000 registered users on the website, and now more than 10,000 fashion pixies with the app.
Susan Reid, Fiona Kendall and Rachel Pycock show off the app
“The demand has been amazing, and we are delighted that so many women are using the site and app to keep up to date with where the best fashion deals are, so they can grab the best fashion bargains.”
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Accessories
Fledgling label bags success
Timely addition FOLLOWING the success of Storm Black, a range of premium watch styles, the brand has now introduced its first menswear designs to the collection. The three new styles all feature Swiss movement and a sapphire glass face, as well as each having their own special features. The Aquanaut is water resistant up to 1,000m, the Sigma has a luxury mock croc leather strap and the Emron has a ceramic bezel and link.
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The Chesterfield brand, better known for its English padded leather sofas, is now launching its own bag range. The collection aims to combine style with rugged elements to give it a unique appeal. Stylish Viona van Dijk has years of experience working with leather and is responsible for designing the range. She said: “I was set the challenge of translating the classic Chesterfield feeling into fashionable bags with a rugged appeal. “I will know I have succeeded when girls and women cannot resist these must-have bags.”
Bag label Axel David was launched in May 2009 and is a growing success story. The range is now available in more than 13 countries with a mix of designs and colours that can increasingly be spotted on the streets. The upcoming spring/summer collection features a colour palette inspired by the Caribbean reef for a runway look.
Special collection THE Healthy Back Bag Company is set to launch a special edition collection at Moda. The Melin Tregwynt range includes two new fabrics and two additions for the 2010 collection – a medium sized messenger bag and an expedition style bag. This new collection
combines 100 per cent lambswool doublecloth from Melin Tregwynt’s Greek Key and Luna ranges with full grain espresso leather trim and detailing. The Healthy Back Bag’s signature silver interior also includes pockets for mobiles, pens, keys, documents and cosmetics.
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Accessories
Red or Dead has released its new accessories collection for autumn/winter and the range includes a vintage style clutch for fans of the Art Deco style. Spanish brand Menbur has released new images of its winter 2010 collection, which includes a wide range of footwear and accessories.
Aqueo Design will be presenting the latest collections of Italian umbrellas from H.Due.O, Ferre Milano and Pasotti at Moda. The H.Due.O Hippy Flowers collection features bright flowers on a black canopy and the Ferre Milano Bubble collection includes a canopy design covered in bubbles which comes in a variety of different colours.
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News
Staying ahead of the fashion pack By Danielle McCormick, a solicitor with Thomas Eggar LLP’s retail team IF you ever had any doubt as to whether crystal balls existed before the budget announcement, then you do not anymore. The much talked about VAT rise to 20 per cent is now a certainty and the planned changes to NIC contributions will be implemented, albeit with the secondary threshold increasing to £21 above the effect of inflation. Although we all knew it was coming, there is nothing like the certainty of a deadline to focus the mind.
Unlike large fashion retailers who can battle for their share of the ever-diminishing consumer wallet using their buying power to recoup the VAT increase, this is not so straightforward for the boutique retailer. Negotiating on smaller volumes, often with niche suppliers who have limited budgets, is difficult and offers less flexibility, as we all know. The good news is that the Chancellor has rung the warning bell and we all know now what we will be wearing come the spring. Like any 'professional' shopper this is your opportunity to plan what,
where and how you purchase next season's look and develop a strategy to deal with a potential second economic dip.
We all know planning your outfit now means you are not lost for inspiration on what to wear later.
So how can you make the most of this small window you have been given?
Many boutiques who take advantage of this 'VAT reprieve' can cut costs simply by looking at the contracts they have in place and making sure that they work back to back, i.e. together.
Simple, by auditing your business, renegotiating with your suppliers and implementing cost saving restructuring strategies so that you are leaner and fitter to combat the rocky road ahead. Vital planning now will ensure survival and position you to emerge into a better economy, stronger and more groomed than your competitors.
Other tips include trying to renegotiate with your landlord. In the current market if tenants are willing to sign up to a new term now, they may be able to renegotiate a more favourable deal as landlords look to tie businesses in for longer.
Fabulous brands lined up for show The Düsseldorf womenswear trade fair, cpd, has announced its dates for February 2011. The International Trade Fair for Womenswear and Accessories for the autumn/winter season will be held from 6 to 8 February. Philipp Kronen, managing partner of organisers, the Igedo Company, said: “By announcing the dates we want to give the sector planning security once more. These dates ideally slot in with both the national and international event calendars and are absolutely right for our clientele.”
New partnership
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TWO leading German footwear companies have announced a new strategic partnership. Josef Seibel Holding GmbH and Leiser KG have signed a new contract with detailed information regarding the arrangement set to be released at a later date. The owner operated Josef Seibel Group is one of the leading shoe manufacturers in Germany producing over six million pairs of shoes annually which are sold in over 40 countries worldwide. Leiser KG have a 120 year history as a shoe trading firm, operating over 140 stores in the upper and middle market segments with over 1,600 employees. ISSUE 60 AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2010
THE Boutique Footwear Show was launched to great acclaim in April providing buyers and directional European brands with the unique opportunity to see the very latest collections directly after the major international fairs. The glamorous event has incorporated successful concepts from many of the European shows to create a bright, open ambience where all the collections can be seen together allowing buyers to get an instant feel for all the major trends of the season in an informal and relaxed atmosphere. This season there will be even more fabulous
brands, as details are constantly being updated – please visit the show website at www.boutique-footwear.com for the latest brand listings and other details. The brands showing are very carefully selected by the Boutique team for their individuality and style, at every price point. Over 70 per cent will be from outside the UK with a focus on Italy, France, and Spain. The majority of them do not show at any other UK show so it is a wonderful opportunity to offer your customers something very different to your competitors. Footwear brand Caprice are opening new concept shops across Europe including one in Moscow and one planned for London. The brand are also set to launch a new type of shoe at this season’s shows – a design that weighs less than 100 grammes and can be held up by one balloon.
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Taking the temperature of your business By Ian Tomlinson, Executive Chairman of Cybertill
measurable, comparable against benchmarks such as a previous year’s data or a competitor’s results, and indicate a course of action.
IN this challenging climate, retailers should pay more attention to setting and using meaningful key performance indicators (KPIs).
KPIs should be set on what drives your business. Analyse what would enable you to outperform your competitors, understand the costs of each step in your supply chain and investigate the effect that training and staff turnover have on sales.
As retailers cope with economic slowdown and flagging consumer confidence, they often look outside their business for remedies and strategies. However, they would do better to look inside the business, measuring its performance and planning its future using intelligence that is readily available. Effective business management relies on good information.
Ian Tomlinson
what they find. Invariably, they are shutting the door after the horse has bolted.
Retailers need to monitor their exposure to risk, their cash flow and their profitability.
Financial data records the result of strategies and tactics, but leaves little room for manoeuvre after the event.
That said, the most valuable information often does not sit in the profit and loss accounts; it derives from measuring critical indicators.
A more reliable approach is to define simple indicators that proactively take the temperature of a business.
These indicators are as individual to the business as its DNA. Too many managers monitor financial performance and expect to make changes based upon
Every business is affected by scores of internal and external factors that enhance or diminish its performance. It is important to focus on just a few key indicators that are
Good stock management means having the right stock at the right time in the right location and enables you to release cash by ‘turning’ stock. So, set KPIs around product defect/return ratios and calculate how returns erode your bottom line. If you have defined your most critical drivers and their basis of measurement, the intelligence you need should be readily available. Understanding and acting upon the key indicators of your business is the best route to success. Only KPIs will enable you to judge whether your business is in poor or good health, and will direct you to apply the appropriate treatment.
Golfers tee off in County Kerry THE 66th International Golf Championship of the Shoe, Leather and Allied Trades took place in County Kerry in June. At the event, 130 golfers competed for a variety of trophies and titles and attended a banquet, raising over €7,000 for trade charities including Footwear Friends and the LHTBI. Next year the Championship will move to De Vere Carden Park near Chester and will take place on 15, 16 and 17 June.
Shoe facts are brought to heel NORTHERN girls wear the highest heels – towering over girls in the South by an average three inches, according to new research. A Debenhams survey has found that in Leeds women are most likely to wear six-inch, spike-heeled stilettos, but block-heeled wedges are more popular in Newcastle. It also showed that Brighton girls like flat shoes less than a centimetre high, but Londoners go for three inch cone or kitten heels. The top sandal wearers live in Leicester, but those living in Cambridge are the most conservative, with women there buying the most three-inch heeled court shoes.
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Issue of the issue
Maximising POS opportunities AS with any marketing activity, having a good strategy is key. Debra Jamieson, UK Point Of Sale Group’s sales and marketing director, gives her advice on how to maximise point of sale opportunities to encourage impulse buying, cross-selling and overall store promotion.
Layout: POS positioning is just as important as the special offer it promotes, so make the most out of available space, both inside and outside a store. Consider the use of an A1 pavement sign which is visible to customers approaching the retail outlet. Once in store, work out the journey from shop door to till, or the favoured route customers take to get to the checkout. Then maximise that section/aisle to promote any special offers and deals with suspended poster holders and promotional sign holders at the entrance, to merchandising strips and show cards.
Window displays: Window merchandising on the high street is an extremely important part of the customers’ shopping experience. Ensuring a shop window really stands out and
that those summer special offers and promotions are clearly on show will certainly make all the difference. The obvious forms of POS ideal for such displays include window poster holders or deli tickets. But displaying your products effectively is just as important, which is where display bridges and support stands come into play.
Shop style: Understanding a shop’s clientele is fundamental to the success of the business and is something to bear in mind when promoting special offers through POS. In general, customers shopping in independent retail stores expect to get something different from a chain and can be more inclined to spend that little bit extra due to a store’s originality. Subsequently, these outlets have the opportunity to be more creative with promotions, such as ‘special offer of the day’ deals.
Debra Jamieson
If stores are higher-end, they should go for the better quality POS materials. Alternatively stores which drive sales predominately through offers should use the cost effective alternatives such as plastic framed display cards or re-useable adhesive ticket holders.
Promoting your USP: Independent stores have to compete harder than ever with the well-known chains, but it is easier to make your outlet really stand out from the crowd by offering something unique.
Cause for celebration for small retailers By Louise Cordell SMALL retailers should be celebrating key changes made in the new Budget, according to industry experts. The Forum of Private Business has claimed that the one per cent cut in small companies’ tax, combined with the new £5m threshold for entrepreneurs’ relief on capital gains tax, are positive measures – resulting in an overall small business-friendly Budget. Phil Orford, Forum chief executive, said: “I think many small business owners have been pleasantly surprised. “Not only did the Chancellor make all the right noises about supporting enterprise and smaller businesses, he backed it up with concrete, tangible policies.
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“However, the money to pay off the deficit has to come from somewhere and I expect most Forum members would rather stomach a VAT increase than a rise in other taxes, or even greater cuts in public spending.” Further pledges to review all employment law, outlined in the full Budget document, have also been warmly welcomed by the Forum. The proposals, forcing each Government department to review the employment regulations laws for which they are responsible, come following the Forum’s calls for a review of all workplace legislation. Phil added: “Our members frequently cite employment law as one of their main areas of concern so any moves to simplify and rebalance the regulations affecting smaller employers have got to be welcomed. “On top of this, the moves to limit
rises in National Insurance, introduce NI exemptions for some new employers and raise the income tax threshold were also positive, even though they were watered-down from the Conservatives’ original pre-election promises.” The FPB is now calling for a guarantee of genuine private sector input into the planned white paper on local economic growth to ensure that it focuses on smaller, business-led innovation and jobs in regions that are likely to be affected by public sector job cuts. The organisation also plans to lobby the government to make sure the ‘fuel price stabiliser’ referred to by Mr Osboune becomes a reality. Phil added: “Extortionate petrol and diesel prices represent a huge inflationary problem for smaller firms and could threaten recovery if left unchecked.”
Give your store the edge needed to compete with the bigger players with special offer and promotions using good quality POS (predominately visible from outside the store) to increase sales and your customer base.
Sam nets valuable experience with sports giant A DE Montfort University student has taken his first step towards a career in footwear design after completing a work placement with sports giant Nike. Sam Pearce, who is also a former professional footballer, won a national competition to represent the UK in Pensole USA, a fellowship programme held in partnership with the Sorrell Foundation. This course is led by a team of designers and guest speakers including D’Wayne Edwards, footwear design director at Nike Jordan Brand. Sam and 39 other students from around the world took part in the two-week programme of tuition, covering everything from hand-drawing skills to materials design, colour theory and professional networking. He said: “During the scholarship programme we were all given projects suited to our skills and background. “As I used to play professional football, I was given the brief to redesign a soccer boot. “At the end I got to showcase my finished design to some top designers and the feedback I received from them was priceless and will stay with me forever. “It was truly inspirational hearing advice from those who have made a successful career in the industry.”
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Issue of the issue A store’s design and atmosphere is its best chance to make a good first impression. Retailers can offer the best products at unbeatable prices, but won’t make a single sale until they can get customers through the door. It’s an issue that is particularly important in a tough economic climate, so Out On A Limb has spoken to industry expert Peter Cunningham to get some top tips on the best fittings for maximum profits.
First impressions count in a tough economic climate PETER Cunningham is head of interior design at Design CLD, an interior design and project management company which has handled refits for a range of footwear chains and independent stores. Previous projects include working with brands like the Original Shoe Company and Jonathan James and independent retailers, for example SoleLution in Bristol.
Light and space:
When working with retailers we have found that lots of illumination close to the products works wonders for sales. For example, with the Original Shoe Company, we provided a lot of lighting under the shelves where the products were displayed and not much on the ceiling, which really focussed customer attention on the product. In terms of space and how much stock should be on display, it really depends on the market that the store is in. For example, in a place like Shoe Zone, the shoes are displayed in pairs and there are lots of sizes on offer, so it is necessary to pack more in, giving more of a supermarket appearance.
‘Shoes are a wonderful thing to be selling if you want to make a shop look great – if merchandised well, they can look far more appealing than any other kind of fashion store’ cost will be for customers.”
Design and colour:
Whenever we work with stores we try to get consistency running through from the fascia to the ticketing on the shelves. If there is a range of different type faces, for example, the chances are that the shop will look cluttered and untidy. It is the same situation with the colour used. As a rule we suggest keeping to a maximum of three of four, because doing that, and being very consistent about where they are used in the store, lends weight to the offering. The right design can go a long way to suggesting an overall brand concept and that can be very valuable.”
Cutting costs:
This is totally valid for this type of lower cost store, but more expensive merchandise will benefit from being given more space.
It can be easy to let costs run away with you when it comes to design and fitting, but there are various things that can be done on a small budget – a lick of paint can go a long way.
It is well known that the more room a product is given when it is displayed, the higher the perceived
One easy example for a small boutique is to reconsider the colours they are using and get a fresh look
for a low cost with a coat of paint. People should remember that there are a lot of things they can do themselves to keep down the overall spend, but for a substantial refit, I would advise approaching a designer first to get things started. This is because the right input at an early stage can point you in the right direction and save a lot of aggravation later on. For example, people tend to make the mistake of changing one element of their store, like getting a new frontage, when that element is not the problem.
Some examples of footwear stores designed by Design CLD
In fact, it is the bad lighting, display or layout that is putting customers off. This leads to many people making decisions that are expensive and don’t actually make much difference to profits. It is much better to get some expert advice on the best ways to spend the money that you have available. Like any company owner, retailers can be blind to their own faults, because no one notices the things you see every day. A fresh pair of eyes can make all the difference, both for the store and for profits.
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dates diaryd
FOOTWEAR CONSULTANTS
Blackpool Footwear Show Barcelo Imperial Hotel, Blackpool, 24-26 July 2010 The UK’s top wholesale footwear suppliers, all under one roof. Pure Olympia, London, 1-3 August 2010 (www.purelondon.com) A showcase of over 800 directional womenswear brands, young creative labels and footwear and accessory collections. Moda Footwear NEC, Birmingham, 8-10 August 2010 (www.moda-uk.co.uk) Moda will include a seminar programme which will be free of charge to all visitors and exhibitors. The Moda catwalk show will present an overview of the seasons trends, providing an insight into key looks. GDS Messe Dusseldorf, Germany, 10-12 September 2010 (www.gds-online.com) Highlights will include high fashion labels from international brands and the children’s footwear marketplace. Other events will include fashion shows, trend presentations and trend vision.
AGENTS REQUIRED
RETAIL SOLUTIONS
FOOTWEAR
FOOT CARE
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