International Edition FALL/WINTER 2011 Your free guide to Copenhagen
15 nt e v e
DINING
WITH THE DEAD
... and why we love to do it
s
you can’t miss this
SKÅL!
SEASON
What to drink while you’re here
NO A
RENE REDZEPI of the World's Best Restaurant
“We are no strangers to failure”
INTRODUCING
RALPH LAUREN INTRODUCES DENIM & SUPPLY DENIMANDSUPPLY.COM
Ø S T E R G A D E 26 C O P E N H AG E N
JOIN MCS ON FACEBOOK
MARLBOROCLASSICS.COM
Shopping. Dining. MuSic. Art. Metro. Timetable The Metro operates 24 hours a day, all week. Trains leave every 2-6 minutes during the day and every 8-20 minutes at night.
Tickets You can purchase tickets from the Metro ticket machines located at all Metro stations. Ticket prices vary depending on the number of zones you travel. Valid for one or two hours.
Airport The Metro runs to and from Copenhagen Airport. The trip 10-clip card – Same as tickets, from the city centre takes 14 but with up to a 40% discount. Remember to stamp minutes.
Find more travel info at intl.m.dk
the card at the start of your journey. City Pass – Unlimited travel throughout central Copenhagen (all Metro stations) for a 24- or 72-hour period.
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Concert Hall
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Let´s go
SECTIONS 17 - 36 INTRO - STAFF PICKS 49 - 63 STYLE - GUIDE TO YOUR GARMENTS 65 - 72 GO - YOUR GUIDE TO DON’T-MISS EVENTS
vol. 105 september 2011 International Edition
CONTENTS “It’s a great honour to be voted the best restaurant in the world, although I personally don’t think you can rate taste.” REDZEPI 74 RENE
REGULARS 14 EDITOR'S LETTER 16 CONTRIBUTORS 86 RETAILERS PEOPLE 38 PROFILE Tivoli director Lars Liebst 74 RENE REDZEPI The master of daily disasters FOOD & DRINK 29 BOTTLED TO PERFECTION The best wine in Copenhagen
65 GO WOMEN'S FASHION
TO PERFECTION 52 29 BOTTLED
SHOPPING 17 STAFF PICKS Things you can't live without 26 DESIGN GUBI goodies EXPLORE THE CITY 33 URBAN SPACES Architectural eye candy 42 MORBID? Dining with the dead 65 GO What to do in Copenhagen FASHION & BEAUTY 23 WELLNESS A beautiful you 49 FASHION EDITOR'S PICKS Ladylike and luxurious 50 MEN'S FASHION Back to basics 52 WOMEN'S FASHION The essentials 55 FASHION PREDICTIONS Country cool and classy a la Chanel 58 FASHION EDITORIAL Crazy colour
GO - WHAT TO DO IN COPENHAGEN THIS SEASON PAGE 65
Udpate your wardrobe at the fashion outlet Designer Forum i September. Hear Norway’s new soul sensation, Bernhofft, in Koncerthuset in November. Experience Basquiat and Warhol’s mutual works at Arken in October. Visit Tivoli’s Christmas market in December. WHERE2GO SEPTEMBER 2011 INTERNATIONAL EDITION
Napapijri Shop Illum, 1. sal
napapijri.com
INTERNATIONAL EDITION vol. 105 september 2011 International Edition
EDITOR'S LETTER
From football to fine dining
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ext summer will mark the 20th anniversary of Denmark’s victory in the European football championship. I wasn’t more than 12 back then, but I clearly remember showing up for soccer practise the first day after the final against Germany. Everyone seemed to run a bit faster, work and try a bit harder and not giving up as easily as we would have done only a few days earlier, before we were the champions of the world (well, just Europe, but this was before any of us knew that Brazil also had a national team). Suddenly, even the kids who wouldn’t know which corner of the ball to kick were calling themselves the next Laudrup, Schmeichel and Flemming Povlsen. For a few, perfect months we were sure we would actually win the World Cup as well. Today, however, soccer is no longer among our finest virtues. We haven’t been anywhere near winning anything in years, and honestly, it’s like we’re not even trying anymore (looking in your direction here, Bendtner). One thing we do master to perfection, however, is food. You probably already know by now, that Copenhagen is home to both the world’s best restaurant, NOMA and the world’s best chef, Rasmus Kofoed of Geranium II. Copenhagen’s strongest brand is no longer the Little Mermaid, our fairy-tale like streets or our beautiful girls (the reason most of my friends from abroad travel here), but our award-winning restaurants and innovative approach to cooking. But that’s only the tip of the iceberg. Almost everywhere you look there’s a great little restaurant, a ”Pølsevogn”, an eco-friendly café or a brand new chocolaterie. A few of them may have their own Michelin-cook, but most of them are just fantastic for that one reason – after Copenhagen won the world championship in fine dining and fantastic food everyone seems to be trying a bit harder.
Søren McGuire, EDITOR IN CHIEF
WHERE2GO SEPTEMBER 2011 INTERNATIONAL EDITION
Photo Tuala Hjarnø
Welcome to Copenhagen
København, Illum 1 sal
napapijri.com
WHERE2GO
Otto Mønsteds Gade 3 1571 Copenhagen V Phone + 45 72 34 12 00 Fax + 45 72 34 12 01
vol. 105 september 2011 International Edition
COLOPHON
CONTRIBUTORS
EDITOR IN CHIEF Søren McGuire sm@chiligroup.dk
JOURNALIST Oliver Enné oe@chiligroup.dk
PRODUCT MANAGER Tove Hunter th@chiligroup.dk
DEPUTY EDITOR Sofie Korsgaard sko@chiligroup.dk
FASHION ASSISTANT Cecilie Martensen cm@chiligroup.dk
CULTURE EDITOR Andreas Grubbe Kirkelund agk@chiligroup.dk
TRANSLATIONS Signe Salling
KEY ACCOUNT MANAGER Maria Jensen mje@chiligroup.dk
ENTERTAINMENT EDITOR Nanna Balslev nb@chiligroup.dk
WRITERS Andrea Bak, Martin Gronemann, Boline Skovly, Nadia Zinck Thiesen
FASHION EDITOR Cathrine Park cpa@chiligroup.dk
PHOTOGRAPHERS Knirke Egede, Flemming Leitorp, Benita Marcussen,
ART DIRECTOR Mads Bastell mba@chiligroup.dk
DIRECTOR OF SALES Heidi Schneider Faaborg hsf@chiligroup.dk
ART DIRECTOR ASSISTANT Morten Gorm
CONTACT MANAGER Martin Ølgaard Axkær max@chiligroup.dk
KEY ACCOUNT MANAGER Jonas Wallfält jw@chiligroup.dk
ANDREA BAK
MORTEN GORM
KEY ACCOUNT MANAGER Ricardo Gomez rgo@chiligroup.dk
ANDREA INTERVIEWED RENE REDZEPI OF NOMA.
MORTEN HELPED DESIGN PARTS OF THIS EDITION.
DISTRIBUTION Christian Strandberg cs@chiligroup.dk
What’s your favourite restaurant in the city?
What’s your favourite restaurant in Copenhagen?
The Paul in Tivoli. Sadly, it closes late September and I can’t wait to find out what Paul Cunningham will be up to next. He is a genius!
Chicky Grill at Halmtorvet. Smoke, strong beer and cheap, greasy Danish food. Fantastic!
DIRECTOR OF PUBLISHING Heidi Lundehøj hl@chiligroup.dk EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR Rikki Sølling rs@chiligroup.dk
What’s the best kept secret in Copenhagen?
Akademihaven in Carlsbergbyen. A quiet oasis where I can sit for hours enjoying the silence. What do you love about Copenhagen?
I love many things about Copenhagen, but most of all I love walking home in the wee hours of a summer’s morning after a fun night out and falling asleep listening to the birds outside. What’s your favourite part of the city?
I live in Vesterbro and that has always been my favourite part of town. Probably always will be, too.
COVER FOTO Flemming Leitorp
WWW.WHERE2GO.DK WHERE2GO SEPTEMBER 2011 INTERNATIONAL EDITION
Tilmeldt Dansk Oplagskontrol
ISSN 1603-0079 København, Aller Tryk A/S Oplag: 30.000
What’s the best kept secret in Copenhagen?
That it’s run by crooks and villains. What do you love about Copenhagen?
Christiania. The free town’s ecclectic mix of different types of people and beautiful settings gives it an atmosphere you won’t find anywhere else in Copenhagen. What’s your favorite part of the city?
Nørrebro. Definitely the most interesting mix of people in Copenhagen.
www.olemathiesen.dk - flagshipstore: Ă˜stergade 8, Copenhagen
ROYAL MARINE New waterresistant classic from Ole Mathiesen with scratchproof convex sapphire crystal and convex silvered dial. Dkk 7.885
WHERE2GO'S GUIDE TO ALL THE THINGS YOU CAN'T LIVE WITHOUT WHAT LIES BENEATH
Sure, you might accuse us of including the new collection of Triumph underwear as an excuse to put half-naked pictures of Helena Christensen in our magazine – but that would only be half the truth. Yes, we enjoy the sight of Miss Wicked Games as much as the next guy (or girl), but that doesn’t mean we don’t applaud Triumph’s new ‘Luxury Collection’. It looks really good.
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MIX IT UP
If you’re into colourful drinks and bubbles, this one is for you. Purple Laguna is the newest addition to the country’s selection of refreshing alcoholic beverages that will make you want to stay for that infamous ‘next round’. Also, it’s purple, tastes like blueberry and can (and should) be mixed with champagne for a nice aperitif. Cheers.
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laguna.dk
triumph.com
SCANDINAVIAN STORAGE Looking for a new space to put your stuff? Well, here’s the solution: Not only does Muuto’s shelf system STACKED combine skilful Danish design with really good looks. It’s also a great place to
Words Oliver Enné
store and display all of your stuff when it’s just lying there on the floor. We love things that make us appear more organized!
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muuto.com
INTERNATIONAL EDITION SEPTEMBER 2011 WHERE2GO
STAFF PICKS WHERE2GO's guide to all the things you can't live without.
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SOUNDS OF SEDUCTION
No doubt about it. Great sound is a must in any great home. So whether you’re looking to spin some pop tunes or put on your favourite classical album when you hit home base – surely, you want it to be of great quality. A great and stylish choice of amp could be this one from Geneva Sound System. It’s a safe (and sound) home for your iPod as well as a nice feature in your home.
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genevalab.ch
AMERICAN CLASSICS
We’re sure you’re all familiar with Ralph Lauren – well, his clothes at least. But if you think his collections are all about preppy shirts and ties you’re mistaking. His Denim & Supply line consists of relaxed, bohemian clothes for any stylish man or woman with a soft spot for effortless, personal style. If that man or woman is you, you now know what brand to look for when you are out shopping. Thank us later.
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ralphlauren.com
G WHERE2GO SEPTEMBER 2011 INTERNATIONAL EDITION
dolce-gusto.com
Words Oliver Enné
GLOW IN THE DARK
Futuristic coffee lovers are going to love this one. Nescafe’s Dolche Gusto does not only provide you with a great cup of coffee – but also lights up your kitchen with the integrated LED-lamp when you’re getting up in the morning and having that cup of wake-me-up coffee. Oh yeah, and it looks pretty cool too.
Få mest muligt ud af musikken på din iPod eller iPhone, medoverlegen lydkvalitet du forventer fra Sony produkter. Vælg mellem hovedtelefoner eller docking-stationer med højttalere. Alle med stilfuldt design og smarte funktioner, der er bygget til at passe dit mobile musikliv. M5 iPod Dock pFyldig lyd i kompakt lille æske. p Spilletid 10 timer med 4 AAA batterier. p Oplader din iPod / iPhone, mens du lytter.
M5 iPod Dock
M15 iPod Dock
Circle Sound
ZX700
20 PROMOTION
Iconic clock design at table height
Arne Jacobsen table clock
WHERE2GO SEPTEMBER 2011 INTERNATIONAL EDITION
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rne Jacobsen was a master of all kinds of design: architecture, furniture design, lamps, cutlery, textiles, clocks… Since 2009, Timepieces Rosendahl Copenhagen has successfully produced Arne Jacobsen’s wall clocks and watches, and is now expanding the collection with a classic ”table clock” in five different designs. All of them have the unique combination of functional product and design classic which has given Arne Jacobsen’s clocks their cult status today.
Industrial functional design
The architectural table clock that Timepieces Rosendahl Copenhagen is now relaunching was created by Arne Jacobsen in connection with the construction of a building for the managing director of electrical goods manufacturer Lauritz Knudsen in 1939. Typically Arne Jacobsen, the design is both architectural and minimalist, but at the same time influenced by Lauritz Knudsen’s industrial access to moulding with plastic, which was the new wonder material at that time. For a number of years, the company produced the table clock and with the present launch of table clocks onto the market, Timepieces Rosendahl Copenhagen is including a special ”LK” model in the collection. In addition to this, the other iconic wall clocks - ”Bankers”, ”City Hall” and ”Roman” - are also being launched in table versions, along with the ”Station” model.
Table clocks are back
With the relaunch, Arne Jacobsens table clock is making a strong comeback into modern interior furnishings. Thanks to updated functions such as snooze and light sensors, the table clock serves as both a clock and alarm clock, but most will probably use the new table clock as a design object. Just like Arne Jacobsen’s wall clocks, AJ WALL, and watches, AJ WATCHES, the new table clocks have been recreated by Timepieces Rosendahl Copenhagen with respect for Arne Jacobsen’s original drawings and without compromising on his high standards of quality and unity – and this is the case with the table version, too.
Arne Jacobsen table clock 95 EURO. rosendahl-timepieces.com
WWW.WHERE2GO.DK
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WELLNESS
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Words Sofie Korsgaard & Søren McGuire | Photos Benita Marcussen & istockphoto.com
WHERE2GO's guide to inner and outer beauty.
A beautiful city requires A BEAUTIFUL YOU
Copenhagen offers a wide range of different beauty treatments for both men and women. Here are four of the best
WWW.WHERE2GO.DK
WELLNESS WHERE2GO's guide to inner and outer beauty. Putting the ”oh!” in smooth
Everyone – and we do mean EVERYONE – who’s ever been waxed, knows how absolutely excruciatingly painful it is, and that no matter how much you brace yourself for the ”riiiitsj”, it always leaves you with tears in your eyes. Let us suggest you try sugaring instead. Not only does it sound nicer, it’s also considered healthier. Sugaring
Feed the fish
We all know that most of us have to suffer for our beauty, and skin peeling can often be a rather painful experience. So how does sinking your feet into a tub filled with hundreds of small fish sound? Scary or soothing? Trust us, when we first visited Aquarium Wellness, we had no idea that we were only minutes away from letting hundreds of little fish called Garra Rufa eat the dead skincells of our
Hand over heels
works in the same way as waxing does, but instead of hot wax, this treatment uses a special blend of sugar, water and citrus. Also, it doesn’t stick to the skin the same way as hot wax, so you’re also in for a less painful experience.
As you may know, Strøget is one of the longest pedestrian streets in the world, and you’re bound to suffer a case of sore feet after a long day of shopping. Luckily, Copenhagen has an abundance of spas, and among the finest and most exclusive is Helle Thorup Spa. We highly recommend the so-called ’Aura balance foot ritual’ and ’Aura balance hand ritual’. You’ve probably deserved them both, haven’t you? Of course you have.
Klinik Slank & Sund, Frederiksberg Niels Ebbesensvej 26 Frederiksberg C klinikfrederiksberg.dk
feet, but the highly unique experience left us with amazingly soft feet. This treatment originates from Turkey, and can also be used to treat psoriasis and acne. Try it out for yourself. Oh, and did we mention that it actually feels rather nice having those little creatures nip at your feet and toes? Aquarium Wellness Store Kongensgade 65 Copenhagen K aquariumwellness.com
WHERE2GO SEPTEMBER 2011 INTERNATIONAL EDITION
Helle Thorup Spa Vendersgade 27 Copenhagen K hellethorup.dk
A shave, a shine-up and a good, long chat
The problem with the world these days is that no one takes the time to talk to each other anymore. We’re all in a rush, time is money, and the more time you take, the less money the hairdresser makes. But at Chaps, it’s a completely different story. Walking into this barbershop is like walking 50 years back in time. All the modern hair-products you usually see on sale have given way to classic products such as brylcreem and fine English after shave, and you’ll be more likely to hear Frank Sinatra coming from the speakers than the latest top 40 hits. Lean back and relax as the owner, Armand, gives you the perfect shave or shines up your haircut. As you leave, you’ll feel and look like you’ve just stepped off the set of Mad Men. Chaps Vingårdsstræde 20 Copenhagen K
Words Sofie Korsgaard & Søren McGuire | Photos Benita Marcussen & istockphoto.com
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Wolford BoutiqueS · Østergade 61, 1100 København K · Magasin, Kgs. Nytorv 13, 1095 København K · illum, Østergade 52, 1001 København K · lyngby Hovedgade 70B, 2800 lyngby · Magasin, lyngby Hovedgade 43, 2800 lyngby
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GUBI DESIGN WHERE2GO endorses.
goodies GUBI is starting to get noticed for their quality furniture, as well as their lamps. We have previously told you about their BESTLITe lamp. This time it’s all about their chair collection GUBI Chair II. The combination of elegant minimalism and comfort has won international praise.
WHERE2GO SEPTEMBER 2011 INTERNATIONAL EDITION
Words Martin Gronemann
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UBI Chair II is a series of both tables and chairs and they are produced with a brand new technology and in a material that is groundbreaking in the furniture industry. They are made from polyester fibre, which is both sound absorbing and eco-friendly. The design of the chair is very versatile, and it can be used at the dinner table or the living room, as there are three different kinds: arm-, lounge and café chair. The versatility also makes the chairs suitable for offices and restaurants.
International praise
The quality of these chairs haven’t gone unnoticed by the rest of the world. The Chair II collection has won the prestigious and acclaimed design award Red Dot Award in the category ”Best of the Best”. The award is handed out in Essen, Germany, and the Danish furniture manufacturer won over 2548 applicants from 43 countries. With a modern
and eco-friendly philosophy, GUBI is contributing to paving the way for furniture design of tomorrow. On top of that, the series of chairs have been nominated for the Danish design award Index Award in the category ”Work”. An award, the predecessor, GUBI Chair I won because of its innovative technology, comfort and eco-friendliness. The Chair I was made in 3D veneer. Giving the acknowledgement, it’s just to constitute the chair as a new classic in Danish furniture design, because of its comfort, elegant design and the aesthetic possibilities within the technology behind it. The GUBI Chair II series is available in four colours, and as for the chair it’s also available in a two-coloured combo with chrome-plated steel.
The chair can be purchased in Illums Bolighus, Casanova Møbler and other selected stores. The price is 2,334 DKK. WWW.WHERE2GO.DK
The new BMW 1-series
www.bmw.dk
harD To reSiST. With its elegant lines and seductive curves, the new BMW 1-series is totally irresistible. And just wait till you’re behind the wheel, gliding through traffic with an engine that purrs with pure power. The spacious cabin abounds with exquisite details, stylish accessories and comfort. Even when it comes to fuel economy, it’s hard to say no to the new
Sheer driving pleasure
BMW 1-series. It drives up to 23.3 kilometres on one litre of fuel. And, if you choose BMW Private Leasing, you won’t have to think about the cost of service and parts. Get acquainted with the new BMW 1-series on bmw.dk, or visit your local BMW dealer.
The new BMw 1-SerieS. BMw PrivaTe LeaSing froM DKK 3,950/MonTh
Jan nygaard aS – Kgs. Lyngby www.jan-nygaard.bmw.dk
Terminalen Kolding a/S www.terminalen-kolding.bmw.dk
Terminalen egå a/S – Århus www.terminalen-egaa.bmw.dk
Terminalen odense a/S www.terminalen-odense.bmw.dk
Terminalen København a/S www.terminalen-kbh.bmw.dk
Terminalen esbjerg a/S www.terminalen-esbjerg.bmw.dk
BMw i Bilernes hus – Silkeborg www.bilerneshus.bmw.dk
Meiniche i/S – holstebro www.meiniche.bmw.dk
Bilhuset haldrup aalborg a/S www.bilhusethaldrup.bmw.dk
The new BMW 1-series from DKK 366,395. Fuel consumption 16.9-23.3 km/l, CO2 emission 114-137 g/km, 116-184 hk. Private Leasing of BMW 1-series from DKK 3,950/month, with a down-payment of DKK 25,000, 36 months, 60,000 km, incl. BMW Service Inclusive Ultimate, delivery costs, metallic finish and mats. Preliminary expenses DKK 4,750. Total cost DKK 171,950.
WHERE2GOs guide to the best drinks in town.
There’s an abundance of fantastic restaurants in Copenhagen, and with every great meal comes a great bottle of wine. Here are three of our favourites and the stories behind them.
WINE
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Bottled to perfection
“THE BEST WINE I’VE EVER TASTED” The bottle: 1959 Chateau d’Yquem Sauterne Bordeaux Price: 10.000 DKK
Words Martin Gronemann | Photo Benita Marcussen
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ating your dessert while drinking an extremely expensive wine doesn’t get more luxurious. WHERE2GO visited the Michelin restaurant AOC Aarø & Co and had a talk with manager Christian Aarø about their best bottle: a 52-year-old Sauterne dessert wine. “It doesn’t get much bigger than D’Yquem. It’s a Bordeaux appellation and the best of the best of the socalled Prémier Cru Súperieur. It’s the best wine I’ve ever tasted. So far we haven’t sold any from that year, but we have sold the Chateau D’Yquem from 2001, which is also considered a great year. But it does get better the more it ages. This is a wine you won’t find in stores. You’ll see it at either auctions or at private collectors.”
AOC Aarø & Co. Dronningens Tværgade 2 Copenhagen K Phone: 3311 1145
WWW.WHERE2GO.DK
WINE continued ...
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GERMAN PERFECTION The bottle: 1998 Riesling Spätlese Versteigering. “Saarburger Rausch”. Price: 950 DKK
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or 20 years Bo Jacobsen and his wife Lisbeth have served superb food at Restaurationen. With superb food come superb grapes. On the wine list in Møntergade, German white wine is on the top of the list. “When we talk about white wine, I see four or five wines that are really something. And I think that Riesling is one of the greatest grapes out there. German wine doesn’t have the best reputation, and you might say that less good wine such as Liebfraumilch is to blame for that, which is a shame because a bottle like this represents the vast level of good Rieslings in Germany. The characteristics of a Spätlese is its strong concentration of acid and significant sugar content, which creates a great combination with the fruit of the wine. Versteigering is from Mosel-Saar-Ruwer in Germany and is one the best white wines I’ve ever tasted.”
Restaurationen Møntergade 19 Copenhagen K Phone: 33 14 94 95 restaurationen.dk
WHAT MOTHER NATURE WOULD DRINK The bottle: Ego 2001. Bressan. Friuli. Price: 650 DKK n the heart of Magstræde you’ll find Il Dona with the wonderful combination of Italian cuisine, Nordic produce and a green profile. The latter comes with a nature wine, of course, and according to Il Dona’s wine expert, Maria Kristensen, it doesn’t get better than Ego 2001 from Bressan. “This wine is from an area with many calcium deposits, which has en enormous influence on the flavour and aroma of the grapes. Fulvio Bressan, the manager of the vineyard, only uses the natural fermentation process, which means that the aging of the wine takes quite some time. He uses old wooden barrels, giving the wine a chance to evolve, but at the same time he’s very adamant about keeping the characteristics of the wine.”
Il Dona Magstræde 12 Copenhagen K Ildona.dk WHERE2GO SEPTEMBER 2011 INTERNATIONAL EDITION
Words Martin Gronemann | Photo Benita Marcussen
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WHERE2GOs guide to the buildings worth exploring.
URBAN SPACES
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ARCHITECTURAL
Copenhagen is known for housing some of the world’s finest and most creative architects. From urban parks to towering buildings - the city is bound to have some exiting sights for you to experience. Here’s some of them.
eye
candy
Words Oliver Enné | Photos Benita Marcusen & PR | Illustrations Nordarch & Topotek1/BIG
THE TWO TOWERS The Bella Sky Comwell is unlike any other hotel you’ll find in our great city. It’s exiting, refreshing and we can’t wait to check back in. Here’s why.
T
here’s a great panoramic view from the top of the two towers at the Bella Sky Comwell in Copenhagen’s newest neighbourhood “Ørestaden”. Actually, you can pretty much see the entire city when you’re sipping your drink at the hotel’s Sky Bar located on the 23rd floor. Bella Sky is not only Scandinavia’s largest 4-star hotel; its towers are also the two most leaning pieces of architectural towers in Scandinavia – beating the Leaning Tower in Pisa by far. Located by the foot of Denmark’s biggest convention centre, Bella Center, Bella Sky Comwell is build to host and welcome business travellers from all over the world, as well as pushing the boundaries of what a hotel can offer. With 814 rooms, an entire women-only floor and a great selection of restaurants, bars and gym facilities, The Bella Sky Comwell is unlike any other hotels in Copenhagen. On the inside and out. DESIGNED BY Architect firm 3XN FIND IT Center Boulevard 5, Ørestad City ESTIMATED PRICE 1,6 billion DKK READ MORE on bellaskycomwell.dk
WWW.WHERE2GO.DK
URBAN SPACES continued ...
LIFE IN TECHNICOLOR
Remember back when parks consisted of green grass and park benches? Well, no more. Superkilen is the city’s first (but surely not last) multicultural urban park.
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openhageners will remember back when Nørrebro was just a troubled neighbourhood located in the outer part of the city. Today, Nørrebro is one of the most hip and vibrant parts of Copenhagen. This of course calls for urban renewal, which is why one of Denmark’s most sought out and respected studios BIG has been asked to design and build the locals and visitors of Nørrebro a new, modern park. The result will be the new multicultural ”Superkilen”, which will feature not one, not two, but three landscapes all in one urban park. Here, you’ll be able to find everything from physical activities to chill-out spots, hills and picnic spots. Since Nørrebro is known for its many ethnicities all living in one neighbourhood, BIG has decided to bring in water fountains, trees and playgrounds from all over the world to celebrate the multicultural community that is Nørrebro. Superkilen will welcome its guests in September 2011. DESIGNED BY BIG Architects FIND IT Corner of Nørrebrogade/Tagensvej, Copenhagen N ESTIMATED PRICE 58 million DKK READ MORE on superkilen.dk
SKATERS’ PARADISE
In june, Fælledparken opened its huge, new skate park for the city’s skateboarders, BMX’ers and curious locals.
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ou might not be aware of it, but Northern Europe’s largest skate park is actually located in Copenhagen’s Fælledpark. Here, 4,500 square feet of skate park is visited everyday by skaters from all over the city who ollie, kick flip and nose grind all over the newly opened skaters’ paradise. This however, is not your typical cliché of a skate
WHERE2GO SEPTEMBER 2011 INTERNATIONAL EDITION
Words Oliver Enné | Photos Benita Marcusen & PR | Illustrations Nordarch & Topotek1/BIG
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For generations, we have designed and created damask weaved quality home textiles. From its modest beginnings in the 15th century to the GEORG JENSEN DAMASK you encounter today, craftsmanship, traditions and design have been the leading principles of the vision of creating renewal with respect for the history. The tradition of cooperating with Denmark’s very best architects, designers and artists ensures a broad collection of bed linen, tablecloths, terry towels and tea towels.
www.damask.dk
KØBENHAVN: Ny Østergade 19 - 1101 København K - Tlf. 33 12 26 00 - LYNGBY: Lyngby Hovedgade 57 A - 2800 Lyngby - Tlf. 45 88 61 00
URBAN SPACES continued ...
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park. It’s nicer, more advanced and it’s been made by some of the country’s finest landscaping architects who specialise in these types of constructions. Danish skateboard sensation Rune Glifberg has also played a part in the birth of the skate park so surely this is for the best skaters and the most curious visitors. We can assure you, you'll be welcome, though. DESIGNED BY Nordarch FIND IT Fælledparken, Edel Sauntes Allé, Copenhagen N ESTIMATED PRICE 20 million DKK READ MORE on nordarch.dk
In Islands Brygge, an old warehouse building has been turned into a luxurious metropolis of modern hotel apartments overlooking the harbour bath.
D
uring the beginning of the new millennium, Copenhagen was one of Europe’s most expensive cities to live in. Therefore, a great number of the city’s creative minds had nowhere to go to express themselves if they wished to live in the city. At that time however, a large number of old buildings were left unattained and were just waiting to be restored. One of those buildings was Islands Brygge’s A-House, which was scheduled to be transformed into luxurious hotel apartments in 2006. But until then, the house allowed for the city’s painters, musicians and artists to turn the building into a creative playground just 10 minutes away from the Town Hall. It was at the A-house that world renowned DJ Anders Trentemøller played some of his very first gigs, and where designer Henrik Vibskov started hosting his first fashion shows. Today, the A-house has turned into Stay – a house of modern hotel apartments, but the creative energy never left. It has, quite simply, chosen to stay. DESIGNED BY Holdgaard Arkitekter FIND IT Islands Brygge 79, Copenhagen S ESTIMATED PRICE 1300-3500 DKK per night (if you wish to stay) READ MORE on staycopenhagen.dk
WHERE2GO SEPTEMBER 2011 INTERNATIONAL EDITION
Words Oliver Enné | Photos Benita Marcusen & PR | Illustrations Nordarch & Topotek1/BIG
MODERN PLAYGROUND
E AT L B A AIL K V A M.D S U T R E K R FO TIC E N IG D ES
30th SEPTEMBER - 2nd OCTOBER FRIDAY 17 - 20 SATURDAY 10 - 17 SUNDAY 10 - 16 FORUM COPENHAGEN • JULIUS THOMSENS PLADS 1 • 1925 FREDERIKSBERG C • WWW.DESIGNERFORUM.DK
38 PROFILE
WHERE2GO SEPTEMBER 2011 INTERNATIONAL EDITION
Y M N A N N U F He’s the managing director of one of Denmark’s biggest tourist attractions and isn’t afraid to take a beating. Because when it comes to Tivoli there has to be something for everyone. WORDS Nanna Balslev PHOTO Knirke Egede
ost people get fed up with their job at one point or another. If Lars Liebst is one of them, he hides it well. WHERE2GO meets him on one of those grey summer days where you constantly look up to see if it’s time to find shelter for the rain. He walks down the path towards the newly opened Nimb Terrace, agile and with a jolly smile. Even though Lars Liebst has been the managing director for the past 15 years he never grows tired of Tivoli. In his own words, he feels
chipper when he sees all the families with small children, and he can get high from watching a classical concert or a pantomime show. “I can easily walk around Tivoli without thinking that I’m the managing director. I often take my family out to dinner in the garden because it’s part of my job to eat at all the restaurants here, but it’s also because I want to, and because we all enjoy it,” he says. AMUSEMENT FOR EVERYBODY
Despite the unpredictable weather, we’re sitting outside, closest to the
path. A young mother with a trolley walks by, looking lost. Lars Liebst quickly catches her gaze. “Do you know where I can find Café Ketchup?”, she asks him. “It’s just around the corner, but it’s called ‘Madklubben’ now”, he answers. It’s unclear if the woman with the trolley knows that it’s the managing director of Tivoli that she’s just talked to because Lars Liebst can be any one of the visitors in Tivoli. No other amusement park in the world provides service for such a large amount of people. There has to be something for the families with WWW.WHERE2GO.DK
40 PROFILE
LARS LIEBST 54 years old and originally from Svendborg, a town on the island Funen. A qualified lighting designer and stage manager from Studio and Forum of Stage in New York. Co-founder of Grønnegårds Theatre in Copenhagen and former head of department at the International Theatre School of Denmark. Became managing director of Tivoli in 1996 and was chairman of the Arts Council from 2003 till 2007. In 2000 he was appointed Knight of the Order of Dannebrog. Favourite area in Copenhagen: ‘Christianshavn. My son lives there and I very much enjoy taking walks in the area. I especially enjoy our ‘competitor’, Christiania which, if any, embraces the diversity that I appreciate about Tivoli.’ Dislikes: ‘That Copenhagen is so dirty. It’s sad to see how people make a mess at events, such as Distortion, and I think we ought to be better at keeping the city clean. I’ve just been to Moscow, and it was a pleasure to see how clean it was.’ Tivoli’s biggest challenge at the moment: ‘The decrease of tourists coming to Denmark. I call for a larger political desire to support Denmark’s fourth biggest industry, namely tourism. Denmark is one of the most expensive countries in Europe to visit!’ Things you didn’t know about Lars Liebst: He prefers walking to driving in Copenhagen, and he’s a regular at Roskilde Festival. ‘But I don’t sleep in a tent!’
WHERE2GO SEPTEMBER 2011 INTERNATIONAL EDITION
“I can easily walk around Tivoli without thinking that I’m the managing director.” small children that come here from all over the country to try the new amusements. There also has to be something for the regulars that see Tivoli as a fixed point in their life. There has to be something for the businessmen that need a place for their meetings, and for all the rest of us that come to Tivoli, whether it be for the food, the music on Fridays or to take an evening stroll among the beautiful lights. THEIR OWN GARDEN
It’s this diversity that Lars Liebst holds dearest and is the most proud of when it comes to Tivoli. “It has to be special when you visit Tivoli, regardless of your age or social group,” as he puts it. “My office has a view of the main entrance, and I sometimes sit and watch the people that stand in line. It can be busy at times, and especially people with small children can get stressed out from standing there. But as soon as they step inside the gate, their shoulders fall back into place and people are just happy and relaxed. It’s grand,” he says with a smile on this face. The majority of Danes have a connection with Tivoli, as you often do with places that are part of your childhood memories, whether it be the taste of candyfloss, the helium balloons or the screams of either fear or joy from the roller coasters. For this reason, the garden’s managing director must constantly be on edge, because even though Tivoli is a company making money and developing like all other companies, a big part of Tivoli’s trademark is nostalgia. Lars Liebst has fought his battles and taking his beatings for the garden, and he would happily do it again. “Most of the people that visit us get a feeling that Tivoli is their own garden. In many ways that’s a beautiful thought, but we must never forget that Tivoli has to have edge and keep up with demands. We must never end up as an open-air museum. That will be the end for us.” WWW.WHERE2GO.DK
42 COPENHAGENERS
THE
playful
WORDS Boline Skovly PHOTOS Benita Marcussen
DEAD Why is it that girls sunbathe in their bikinis, groups of mothers meet and men and women take their daily run among the dead in the cemetery Assistensen? According to experts it’s not a new phenomenon nor is it an expression of morbid behaviour. Still, people don’t seem to agree on how to use the cemetery located in the heart of Nørrebro.
WHERE2GO SEPTEMBER 2011 INTERNATIONAL EDITION
I
don’t know what his deal is. He called me, but then nothing happened, says a young woman on her phone. She sits in Assistensen and squint her eyes at the sun. There is no noise from people or traffic, and the only thing you hear is a light breeze from the surrounding trees. Outside, people whizz by on their bikes on the main road that connects Jagtvej and Kapelvej. The locals walk their dogs, and if you go down one of the small paths you’ll meet a couple on a blanket. They kiss, and seem to
think that they’re all alone, but only a few meters away, a shirtless man is reading on a bench. They are all surrounded by large trees, bushes and tombstones. “I come here because it’s quiet, there is no wind and I like the atmosphere. I live on the other side of the cemetery and it’s a nice place to relax”, says Esben Lorenzen. Behind him in the shadows is his little daughter, and he doesn’t think that it’s scary or frightening to sit in a cemetery. “I don’t mind sitting among the dead and their tombstones, and I’m
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44 COPENHAGENERS
FACTS ON
Assistensen
Assistensen was set up in 1760 and is now the biggest green area in Nørrebro
rational enough to think that they won’t mind either”, he says.
Locals and Japanese tourists On a normal Tuesday in June it’s clear that Assistensen in Nørrebro isn’t like most cemeteries. This place is full of life. In Assistensen we act out of character in comparison to other cemeteries. The words are Gitte Lunding’s and she’s an anthropologist and daily manager of the culture centre Assistens. This isn’t just a local cemetery, but also a public memorial park, a haven and a magnet for tourists. “Assistensen has many different layers and it’s multifunctional which is why there’s a mixture of sunbathers, picnics and athletes side by side with the dead. Several studies show that the locals feel very much at home here, and the place functions as a haven for many people. Some people come here because they want privacy, which is quite a paradox, but it’s ac-
tually one of the fortes of this place. Maybe you smoked your first cigarette here or had your first kiss behind a tree”, say Gitte Lunding. Assistensen has 37,000 visitors each year, while 3,000 people walk through the cemetery��������������� ’s gates everyday. Japanese tourists come in busses, and people from the rest of Denmark come to visit the tombstones of the great Danes in the memorial park.
A safe haven in the city Louise Vang Jensen, an anthropologist and a project worker at Hausenberg, a market research firm has just completed a portrait of Nørrebro’s different identities along with Nørrebro’s local committee and believes that it’s necessary to look at Assistensen as a haven as well as the history of the place in order to understand it. “The structure of Assistensen is completely different from Nørrebroparken which is located on the
WHERE2GO SEPTEMBER 2011 INTERNATIONAL EDITION
other side of Jagtvej. Nørrebroparken is well arranged and open, something you associate with safety. Assistensen has a secret feel to it. Here you can find nooks and lairs, but it still feels like a safe haven. As a haven, the cemetery doesn’t set the scene for physical activities because of the lack of big, open spaces However, there is a grandiose feeling about the place, and that affects our behaviour. It’s a recreational space with room for reflections.”
Singing and dancing on the tombstones Gitte Lunding emphasizes that using Assistensen as a picnic area isn’t a new phenomenon. “Even though some of our visitors shiver from the thought of using this place as a park, the truth is that the cemetery has always been used for this purpose”, she says and tells us that when Assistensen was set up
It’s completely legal to spend time in certain parts of the cemetery and enjoy the green surroundings. However, it’s prohibited to sit on the grass close to the graves on the active part of the cemetery, which is located in the middle of the cemetery, out of respect for relatives.
The cemetery has more than 30,000 entombments from 1760 till now.
As long as the dead are respected… Julie Bogason, 36 years old, reading a book on a bench It’s my favourite place in all of Copenhagen. I come here everyday of the year. I like the idea of life, and I don’t see anything wrong with that. I think it’s beautiful that life and death are connected here. I won’t mind people sunbathing on my grave when I die. John Thorsen, 59 years old, gartner at the cemetery I’m actually opposed to it. The cemetery has almost developed into a running club, and there are athletes everywhere. The other day I had to ask a man to remove his bike from a tombstone. I find that rather disrespectful. Another time I caught two girls trying to steal flowers from a grave, and that’s completely crazy. Katja Rosenkantx, 57 years old, sunbathing Sometime I get offended on behalf of the relatives. It makes me sad to see people lie close to new graves. Those who have lost have the right to grieve in private. That being said, I love it here and come year round. I’ll read or ponder a bit on a bench, and botanically it’s a very interesting place. I have ordered a burial place here for the day that I die. I think it’s very harmonious with life both over and under ground. Emil Brøsen, 34 years old, walking his dog Iris I don’t think there is anything scary about this place and I walk my dog two or three times a week in here. That way, the thought of it being a cemetery goes away after a while. I stay away from the active part of the cemetery because I know the rules, and out of respect for the relatives. Assistensen is without a doubt a fantastic place. It’s secretive because of the large trees and bushes. When I have visitors we often take a walk in here. It oozes of history when you walk around the graves of old famous Danes.
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46 COPENHAGENERS
in 1760 it was located far beyond the city’s ramparts. Food and drinks were therefore needed when you visited the cemetery in the weekends. “At that time you’d pack a picnic basket along with tea and snaps. In 1805 singing and dancing were actually banned because people were making too much noise�������������� ”������������� , Gitte Lunding tells us. So it isn’t a new phenomenon, historically speaking – and it isn’t today if you look towards the rest of the world. In Paris you will find PéreLachaise and in London Highgate Cemetery. Both places are used as parks and tourist attractions as we do in Copenhagen.
“I feel bad for the relatives” Even though Assistensen functions as both a cemetery and a public park it’s still a delicate task to join the two.
According to local married couple Jytte and Erik Hansen death is a sensitive subject. They often visit the cemetery to look after the tombstones of three relatives, and they don’t care for people sunbathing or playing their guitar when they bring flowers and reminisce about their deceased relatives. “I don’t think the guy playing his guitar thinks about it, and that’s unfortunate. I find it somewhat morbid that this place also functions as a park, and I would never use Assistensen in that way. I like it here and the atmosphere is great, but if we want a picnic we’ll go to Amager Fælled or Dyrehaven”, Erik Hansen tells us. “��������������������������������� I just feel bad for those who recently buried a relative������������� ”������������ , Jytte Hansen says, and feels that people biking, running or having fun sometimes forget that this is also a place for people
WHERE2GO SEPTEMBER 2011 INTERNATIONAL EDITION
The great Danes buried here
Philosopher Søren Kierkegaard Singer Etta Cameron Physicist Niels Bohr Writer Michael Strunge Writer H.C Andersen Rapper Natasja Writer Dan Turéll Queen of biscuits Karen Wolff Publisher founder Søren Gyldendal
who are grieving. Ivan Larsen, a priest at Stefanskirken close to Assistensen also calls for respect among those who use the park. However, he emphasizes that he likes the way we use the cemetery. “I don’t see anything wrong with it, and for many local it’s a breathing space. That being said, there is a dilemma because even though Assistensen is a cemetery like any other, it’s at the same time nothing like other cemeteries”, he says. By this, Ivan Larsen means that it’s a challenge to use the area as a park. “Sometimes there is a lack of respect. If you see a hearse, you get out of the way. But then again, Assistensen has always been and still is a place full of life, and I wouldn’t have it any other way”, he finishes.
DesigneD by nature refineD by us
Guaranteed by Copenhagen Amber Museum Copenhagen Amber Museum & Shop by Nyhavn, 2 Kongens Nytorv House of Amber on Stroeget, 6 Nygade House of Amber on the Waterfront, 36 Langelinie All茅 (May-Sept) Open Monday-Sunday 路 www.houseofamber.com
LLOYD COPENHAGEN • KR. BERNIKOWSGADE 11, 1105 KØBENHAVN K • TLF. 33 15 33 16 • WWW.LLOYD-SHOP.DK
WHERE2GO'S GUIDE TO YOUR GARMENTS
Our Fashion Editor’s PICKS Sexy silhouettes and addictive notes … WHERE2GO’s fashion editor gives in to ladylike fashion and luxurious scents that will never go out of style Jump!
Someone seems to have spilled a glass of Merlot on this cool jumpsuit, and I love it! Danish Wackerhaus knows how to give us simple and cool design – and this time in one of my favourite colours. JUMPSUIT, WACKERHAUS, 2.750 DKK
Addicted to Margiela
Finally, the luxurious fragrances from the renowned Fashion House Maison Martin Margiela can be purchased in Denmark. With its notes of orange flower, white musk and the rare gum resin galbanum ‘Untitled’ is quite addictive. So despite the fact that it’s unisex, I won’t share with my man! MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA ‘UNTITLED’ EDP 50 ML, 695 DKK
A friend in stormy weather
It’s time for great outerwear again. I have my eyes set on this fabulous coat in grey wool and with sleeves in chunky knit that will undoubtedly comfort me through stormy weather. COAT, MUNTHE PLUS SIMONSEN, 3.899 DKK
Words Cathrine Park
Take a bow A waist of time
It’s certainly not a waste of time to accentuate your waistline, if you want to show off the always desirable hour glass figure. Hopefully, this belt will do the trick for me. BELT, SAND, 799 DKK
Of course pussy bow shirts are super hot this season! It’s simply impossible not to appreciate the trend which allows women to be women and ultra ladylike. I’m a fan! PUSSY BOW SHIRT, S’NOB DE NOBLESSE, 499 DKK
INTERNATIONAL EDITION SEPTEMBER 2011 WHERE2GO
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Words Cathrine Park | Photo Copenhagen Fashion Week
Back to
BASICS
Bruuns Bazaar
Soulland
Treat yourself with cool modern classics made in Denmark and yet another flawless fragrance from Hugo. It’s all about attitude!
WHERE2GO SEPTEMBER 2011 INTERNATIONAL EDITION
T-SHIRT IN ORGANIC COTTON, A QUESTION OF, 360 DKK KNIT, PRIM I AM, 799 DKK BOOTS, WON HUNDRED, 1.000 DKK JEANS, NN07, 800 DKK LEATHER JACKET, MATINIQUE, 2.499 DKK CARDHOLDER, SOULLAND, 300 DKK FRAGRANCE HUGO BOSS ‘HUGO JUST DIFFERENT’ EDT 100 ML, 430 DKK
For nĂŚrmeste forhandler kontakt 70 30 28 28 / www. cottonfield.dk
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Malene Birger
Wackerhaus
Words Cathrine Park | Photo Copenhagen Fashion Week
Need to have and nice to have! Renew your wardrobe with chic timeless pieces that will work for you all year round.
the
ESSENTIALS T-SHIRT, BLACK SECRET, 500 DKK PANTS, MUNTHE PLUS SIMONSEN, 1.299 DKK COAT, RÜTZOU, 2.699 DKK
BRACELET IN ROSY SILVER, JEWLSCPH, 3.999 DKK BOOTS, BLACK LILY, 1.900 DKK FRAGRANCE L’ESSENCE BY BALENCIAGA PARIS
CARDIGAN AND COLLAR, MARGIT BRANDT, 799 DKK/349 DKK
EDP 50 ML, 650 DKK
WHERE2GO SEPTEMBER 2011 INTERNATIONAL EDITION
GRUNDET DEN STORE SUCCESS ER VI GLADE FOR AT KUNNE MEDDELE AT VI ER FLYTTET TIL DR. TVÆRGADE 28 ST TH. 1302 KBH, K LAD VORES INTERNATIONALE TOPSTYLIST TAGE GODT HÅND OM DIG.
PÅ GENSYN HOS LJUNGBERG | SAQR – CUTTING EDGE SALON BOOKINGS: TEL: +45 3315 8828 E-MAIL: INFO@LJUNGBERG-SAQR.COM WWW.LJUNGBERG-SAQR.COM
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Words Cathrine Park | Photo Mondadori/Scanpix
COUNTRY COOL &
FASHION PREDICTIONS
ANN HAGE THOMSEN
classy a la Chanel
Jackpot’s Design Manager Ann Hage Thomsen predicts a stylish season inspired by Jackie O’s feminine silhouettes, timeless pieces a la Chanel and country style done cool.
Sleek or slouchy HAT, JACKPOT, 399 DKK
For this autumn and winter, trousers are either sleektight or slouchy giving a clean look with a feminine feature at the legs. Wear them with an elegant silk blouse for that exclusive feeling. Spice up the look with colourful accessories such as a wool scarf or sequins.
Country Cool
It‚s both ladylike, elegant and chic – the classic country style look, and this season we layer it up with a crisp white shirt, a cardigan with floral print and a fitted blazer in tweed. Keep it cool, casual and modern with flat ankle boots and colourful socks. BLACK SHOES WITH LACES, BLACK LILY, 1.500 DKK
Sonia Rykiel
Jackpot
TROUSERS, JACKPOT, 699 DKK
WWW.WHERE2GO.DK
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Words Cathrine Park | Photo Mondadori/Scanpix
Flowers
SKIRT, INWEAR, 799 DKK
This autumn will be filled with flowers: handpainted, more defined flowers, tiny ones and artistic varieties that almost look animalistic. Dark olive green is a key player along with classic cobalt blue. For a complete look, style your flowers with eye-catching jeans or a white and powder blue shirt.
Very Jackie O
Sonia Rykiel
Jackpot
CARDIGAN, JACKPOT, 799 DKK
The feminine style that dominated the 60’s with Jackie Kennedy Onassis as the ultimate style icon is one of this season’s biggest trends. Think classic Chanel with rounded necklines and short jackets – a very timeless and flattering look for all women.
SKIRT, SNOB DE NOBLESSE, 499 DKK
T-SHIRT, JACKPOT, 399 DKK
Powerful palette
JACKET, CUSTOMMADE, 1.999 DKK
Chanel
Colours are powerful and matching. Be brave and wear tone-in-tone colours from top to toe, or choose a colourful top in bold red with a floral motif in dazzling pink.
WHERE2GO SEPTEMBER 2011 INTERNATIONAL EDITION
Boutique Lacoste Ny Ă˜stergade 3 1101 Copenhagen K
CR AZY PHOTO Steen Evald STYLING Marianne Chloé MAKEUP AND HAIR May Naes/
Scoop Models MODEL Elise Lou / Unique
Give your wardrobe a splash of vibrant colour, no matter if you are dressing up for work, the weekend or a wild party during the holidays.
COLOUR
DRESS, MALENE BIRGER, 2.999 DKK SHOES, ELLOS, 599 DKK COCKTAIL RING, MONIES, 600 DKK
WHERE2GO SEPTEMBER 2011 INTERNATIONAL EDITION
WWW.WHERE2GO.DK
SHIRT, CHARLOTTE SPARRE, 1.599 DKK SILK TROUSERS, CHARLOTTE SPARRE, 1.899 DKK PUMPS, ELLOS, 399 DKK BRACELET, GLITTER, 169 DKK
WHERE2GO SEPTEMBER 2011 INTERNATIONAL EDITION
BAG, WHYRED, 1.800 DKK CUT OFF PANTYHOSE USED AS GLOVES AND HAT COVER, FALKE, 249 DKK
WWW.WHERE2GO.DK
SKIRT, STRENESSE, 1.935 DKK PUMPS, ELLOS, 399 DKK EARRINGS, GLITTER, 90 DKK SCARF USED AS TOP, VINTAGE PIECE
WHERE2GO SEPTEMBER 2011 INTERNATIONAL EDITION
SILK SATIN DRESS, BENEDIKTE UTZON, 2.199 DKK NECKLACE WITH BONE AND 24 CARAT GOLD, MONIES, 38.000 DKK SHOES, ELLOS, 399 DKK BRACELET, BLOND ACCESSORIES, 199 DKK
WWW.WHERE2GO.DK
PEDER OXE’S VINKÆLDER We love champagne! If you do to, come join us for a bottle of Lanson Black Label champagne for Dkk. 295,in the historic winecellars at Gråbrødretorv.
Gråbrødretorv 11 • 1154 København K. • www.pederoxesvinkaelder.dk • info@pederoxesvinkaelder.dk
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What to do in Copenhagen
Events FALL/WINTER 2011 Words Nanna Balslev
MUSIC IN m o t i o n Sounds Festival Sept. 10 / Various venues Buy a ticket for exclusive concerts with some of Denmark’s best pop acts and ride the train for free all day as well. Sounds Festival is arranged by DSB – the Danish Railways and presents concerts with Danish bands and artists at train stations all over Copenhagen. The programme includes pop acts like Alphabeat, Medina and Tina Dichow, as well as upcoming artists like We Are, Brother Grimm and Freja Loeb. A ticket for the whole day is 195 DKK including free transport. soundsfestival.dk
S H O P P I N G For movie freaks H E A V E N CPH:DOX Designer Forum
Nov. 3-13 / Cinemas in Cph
Sept. 30 - Oct. 2 / Forum
Visit foreign countries and exotic cultures, or explore the world of music on the big screen on CPH:DOX, Copenhagen International Documentary Film Festival. Each year CPH:DOX fills the Copenhagen cinemas with a selection of more than 200 documentary films from around the world. The festival is devoted to independent and innovative film and presents the latest tendencies in non-fiction, art cinema and experimental film. CPH:DOX also presents art exhibitions, concerts and professional seminars. The programme will be published mid-october. cphdox.dk
Designer Forum is one of Copenhagen’s biggest fashion outlets and offers a long list of fashion brands at reduced prices. Here you can update your wardrobe with new arrivals, collection samples and bestsellers from last season. At the fair you’ll find clothes for men and women, shoes and accessories reduced by 40-60 percent. The list of brands includes Charlotte Sparre, Rützou, Julie Sandlau, Samsøe Samsøe and Henrik Vibskov. Entrance fee is 60 DKK. designerforum.dk
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Calendar FALL/WINTER 2011 ART AND EXHIBITIONS
MUSIC M E E T S
THE LIFE OF
Toulouse-Latrec
ART
Henri de Toulouse-Latrec Sept. 17 - Feb. 19 2012 / National Gallery of Denmark 6A, 14, 26 M1, M2
Music Made by Art
Meet the French artist Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec (1864-1901) who embarked on the project of depicting the entertainment scene when it flourished in bohemian Montmartre in Paris. The exhibition will present a wide range of works, focusing mainly on Toulouse-Lautrec’s prints housed at the Gallery’s Department of Graphic Arts. Pivotal points of the exhibition will include the urban space and how it stages gender and identity. smk.dk
July 1 - Dec. 23 / National Gallery Of Denmark 6A, 14, 26 M1, M2 Traditional art is mixed with cutting edge music when the National Gallery of Denmark invites seven Danish musicians to participate in the Music Made by Art project. Inspired by a piece of art from the museum each musician has created a piece of music that will be a accessible through headphones next to the painting. The seven musicians include Giana Factory, Kasper Bjørke, Turboweekend and Anders Trentemøller, and their tunes will be released one at a time during six months. smk.dk
Words Nanna Balslev
A paradise for painters Art Copenhagen Sept. 16 -18 / Forum 2A, 12, 29 M1, M2 One of the biggest art events of the year is Art Copenhagen. 75 galleries from all of Scandinavia is represented at the art fair that presents more than 500 artists – from the great masters of contemporary art to the latest shooting stars. The artwork at the fair includes genres such as paintings, sculptures, drawings, graphics, installations, photography and video. See the best of Danish contemporary art at Art Copenhagen. artcopenhagen.dk
WHERE2GO SEPTEMBER 2011 INTERNATIONAL EDITION
Experience the ambience of medieval Copenhagen!
The Monastary of Sct. Gertrud is a unique restaurant dating back to the 1300th century located in the heart of medieval Copenhagen. Enjoy a gourmet dinner from our varied menu or a traditional danish lunch.
Hauser Plads 32 | 1127 København K +45 3314 6630 | mail@sgk.as | www.sgk.as
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Calendar FALL/WINTER 2011 ART AND EXHIBITIONS
Words Nanna Balslev
Urban development of Copenhagen What makes a livable city June 10 - Oct. 23 / Danish Architecture Centre 2A, 19, 48, 350S M1, M2
Grafitti vs. pop art
The exhibition at DAC provides an insight into the huge changes that have taken place in Copenhagen in the past ten years from the massive urban development programme at Ørestad to new cultural landmarks and green urban spaces in the old working-class areas. Get the details of the three major urban development projects in Copenhagen: Ørestad, Nordhavnen and Carlsberg. Free guided tours at the exhibition every Sunday at 2 PM dac.dk
CHINA’S
GREAT MASTER Ai Weiwei
Warhol & Basquiat Sept. 3 -Jan. 11 / Arken 300S A, E This autumn Arken is hosting a large special exhibition of two American legends, Andy Warhol (1928-1987) and Jean-Michel Basquiat (1960-1988). The exhibition will show individual works by the two artists and more than 100 collaborative works, which Warhol and Basquiat created in an intense period from 1984 to 1985. Arken’s exhibition is the story of Warhol and Basquiat – the times they lived in, the artists’ roles, the myths and the mutual fascination that propelled their collaboration and made sparks fly in the works. arken.dk WHERE2GO SEPTEMBER 2011 INTERNATIONAL EDITION
Nov. 18 - Feb. 12 2012 / Louisiana Humlebæk St. Ai Weiwei (b. 1957 in Beijing) is China's most famous contemporary artist; famous in the world and famous in his own country, not least for his politically provocative attitudes and his struggle for democracy. Ai Weiwei participated in Louisiana’s exhibition Made in China in 2008 and will be taking over Louisiana with new works at the end of 2011 as the twelfth artist in the museum's series Louisiana Contemporary. louisiana.dk
Designmuseum Danmark is the main exhibition forum for Danish, Scandinavian and international design. Designmuseum Danmark Bredgade 68, 1260 København K www.designmuseum.dk
Opening hours and closed days Tuesday – Sunday, 11 am – 5 pm Monday closed
FotograF • Pernille KlemP
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Calendar FALL/WINTER 2011 CONCERTS
Words Nanna Balslev
TORI GOES
CLASSICAL
‘Night of The Hunters’ tour Oct. 21 & 22 / The Royal Danish Theatre 2A, 15, 29 Kgs. Nytorv
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FEVER Camille Jones Oct. 13 / Lille Vega 3A, 10 B, C, H Danish songstress Camille Jones got her breakthrough when Dutch DJ Fedde Le Grand turned the remix of her hit ‘The Creeps’ into an international dancefloor anthem. Since then Jones has toured the world with her energetic dance music and played in venues from London to Australia. In February, Ms Jones released her fourth album ‘Did I Say I Love You’ with collaborations by Danish DJ’s Rune RK and Buda (Lulu Rouge). And she still knows how to put on a tremendous party. vega.dk
WHERE2GO SEPTEMBER 2011 INTERNATIONAL EDITION
Tori Amos emerged as one of the most powerful female voices of the nineties with hits such as ‘Cornflake Girl’ and ‘Professional Widow’. The iconic classically trained pianist and singer-songwriter has released 11 studio albums and sold more than 12 million copies. Her 12th studio album ‘Night of The Hunters’ is inspired by a selection of classical pieces spanning the last 400 years. The following tour brings Tori Amos and her Wurlitzer piano to the beautiful setting of the Royal Danish Theatre. livenation.dk
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Bernhoft Nov. 6 / Koncerthuset 33 DR Byen Jarle Bernhoft is Norway’s number one soul sensation. The singer-songwriter and multi-instrumentalist from Oslo is inspired by the organic soul of the seventies. Among his influences are Stevie Wonder, Sly Stone and Curtis Mayfield. Bernhoft’s live performance includes several guitars, a Fender Rhodes piano and beatbox. On stage he combines raw talent, technical skills, and a golden voice that brings tears to your eyes. This is a unique opportunity to see the Norwegian soul phenomenon in Jean Novel’s beautiful concert hall. dr.dk/koncerthuset
SPAR EN FORMUE PÅ ORIGINALE DANSKE MØBELKLASSIKERE OG LAMPER GÅ PÅ OPDAGELSE PÅ VORES KÆMPE LAGER HVER TIRSDAG 10-17.30 JORISVEJ 11-13 , 2300 S
FÆLLEDVEJ 4 , 2200 N • ÅBNINGSTIDER : HVERDAGE 12 -18.00 & LØRDAG 10 -14.00 • TLF 35 37 41 42 • MOBIL 31 16 64 70
WWW.ROXYKLASSIK.DK – STØRSTE UDVALG PÅ NETTET !
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Calendar FALL/WINTER 2011 CONCERTS B L U E - E Y E D
SOUL
Maroon 5
ROCK ON
Motörhead
Dec. 2 / Store Vega 3A, 10 B, C, H Maroon 5 dominated the charts and airwaves in 2004 with their hits ‘This Love’ and ‘She Will Be Loved’. Since then the Californian rock band has released three albums and sold more than 15 millions albums worldwide. The band’s radio friendly rock sound, centered around Adam Levine’s soulful voice, is often described as blueeyed soul. Their new album ‘Hands All Over’ is produced by legendary Robert ’Mutt’ Lange who has worked with AC/DC, Bryan Adams, and Shania Twain. Prepare yourself for raw rock energy and plenty of sing-along moments. vega.dk
Words Nanna Balslev
Dec. 4 / Store Vega 3A, 10 B, C, H Motörhead is one of the most influential rock bands of all time. Centered around the legendary long-haired front man Lemmy, Motörhead have dominated the metal scene since 1975 and paved the way for bands like Slayer and Metallica. Their music is rattling, noisy and fast, and at the age of 65 Lemmy is still living life to the fullest with sex, drugs and rock’n’roll. Remember your earplugs and washed out t-shirt, and prepare for some serious head banging when Motörhead is playing hardhitting trash metal in Store Vega. vega.dk
SIREN SONGS
Heather Nova
Nov. 6 / Store Vega 3A, 10 B, C, H Having spent most of her childhood with her family on a boat sailing through the Caribbean ocean it is no wonder that songstress Heather Nova is closely connected to the sea. The Bermudian singer-songwriter got her breakthrough with her album ’Oyster’ in ’94 and during the last two decades she has sold more than two million albums worldwide. Hear Heather Novas beautiful siren songs when she enters the stage in Store Vega with her band. vega.dk
WHERE2GO SEPTEMBER 2011 INTERNATIONAL EDITION
WINE - DINE
LIVE JAZZ 1-2 SEP
TRIBUTE TO BILL EVANS: THOMAS CLAUSEN / CHUCK ISRAELS (US)
3 SEP
JØRGEN EMBORG GROUP FEAT. MALENE MORTENSEN
8 SEP
PAOLO RUSSO - SOLO & TRIO (IT)
9 SEP
KIRK LIGHTSEY / JESPER LUNDGAARD DUO (US/DK)
10 SEP
KIRK LIGHTSEY / ALEX RIEL QUARTET (US/DK)
15 SEP
LENA ERICSSON QUARTET (SE)
16-17 SEP
JESPER BODILSEN’S ‘SHORT STORIES FOR DREAMERS’
22-23 SEP
HERB GELLER WITH OLE KOCK HANSEN TRIO (US/DK)
24 SEP
KENDRA LOU: THE BILLIE HOLIDAY EXPERIENCE
20 SEP
MADS VINDING INTRODUCING CARL WINTHER
30 SEP - 1 OCT 3 OCT 6-7 OCT 8 OCT 13-14 OCT 15 OCT 26-28 OCT 29 OCT
BOB GULLOTTI / BUTCH LACY (US) JOHN SCOFIELD AND HIS R+B QUARTET (US) RACHEL Z AND «THE TRIO OF OZ» (US) TRIBUTE CONCERT TO CLARK TERRY & BOB BROOKMEYER CHRISTINA VON BÜLOW TRIO WITH JAN ALLAN (SE) BO STIEF / FREDRIK LUNDIN & PLAY!GROUND 2011 KENNY GARRETT QUARTET (US) JOSEFINE CRONHOLM / PAOLO RUSSO / TOMMY ANDERSSON (SE/IT)
www.jazzhusmontmartre.dk Jazzhus Montmartre · Store Regnegade 19A · 1110 Copenhagen K, Denmark Concerts start at 20.00. Dine from 17.30. Book table at (+45) 31 72 34 94 or online
74 DINING
The master of daily disasters Ten years ago no one in their right mind travelled to Copenhagen for the food. But that was before NOMA – and before it became the best restaurant in the world. This is the story of how a series of daily disasters in a kitchen at Christianshavn changed the way we eat. WORDS Andrea Bak PHOTOS Flemming Leitorp
WHERE2GO SEPTEMBER 2011 INTERNATIONAL EDITION
WWW.WHERE2GO.DK
76 DINING
W
WHERE2GO SEPTEMBER 2011 INTERNATIONAL EDITION
hen the good people of NOMA opened their doors to the amazed public eight years ago, no one expected things to go as they did. Copenhageners were curious, but also sceptic of this new Nordic Cuisine-business. To them the thought of eating wild garlic, reindeer and hawthorn was utterly exotic, although it had been a part of their ancestor’s culinary preferences and traditions for generations back. But the chefs and owners Claus Meyer and RenÊ Redzepi decided to change all that, serving only meat and produce from the Nordic region.
Since then things have changed a lot for NOMA and head chef René Redzepi. From being the renegade chef who did all the weird cooking out on the windy harbour front, he has become one of the most respected chefs in the world. A chef with a large crowd of dedicated followers who look closely at what NOMA does with the local, outdoor pantry that’s provided for them.
Like finding oyster in a hay stack
René Redzepi spends three hours in the kitchen creating new dishes and ingredients every day. He does so with two chefs whose full time jobs are to invent and experiment. At the moment their time is dedicated to pickling. And no, we’re not talking about your average raspberry jam. A whopping 1500 kilos of berries, fruits, plants and mushrooms will be salted, reduced, dried and pickled in order for the dishes created in the winter months to be fully flavoured. The fermented juice of salted gooseberries makes for an Umeboshi-like sauce to be drizzled lightly over fresh oysters. Unripe plums that are salted for three months become a lot like olives. Fermented split peas are almost like Miso, “except that the level of protein is lower, so it’s more complex,” as René Redzepi puts it. There’s no telling how the minds of masters really work and asked where he gets his inspiration from, René Redzepi’s first answers are research and travel. “How did our ancestors cook and pickle? How do the Japanese cook? And what more can I do?” The latter is the foundation of NOMA’s success: a never tiring wish to create, invent, stretch and bend what we thought we knew when it came to food and what would please our taste buds. That of course involves an awful lot of experimenting. And far from every experiment makes way to the plates on the tables at the restaurant. “Believe me, we create disasters every day”, René Redzepi laughs. “Recently I had an idea to bread an oyster in the ashes made from hay. I thought that the combination of the two very metallic, mineral flavours would work, but it certainly didn’t”, he says. “The easiest thing in the world is to cook food that tastes good. But that’s not our sole purpose at NOMA. I want to reinvent myself and my cooking every day. I want to extend the use and abilities of ingredients as we know them. That is very hard to do, especially at our level. I get more critical day by day so we are no strangers to failure in the kitchen”, he says.
About René Redzepi René Redzepi was born on 16 December 1977. He trained at the restaurant Pierre André, which had just opened in Copenhagen and soon received a Michelin star. He first visited El Bulli as a guest in 1998 and subsequently worked there during the 1999 season. Back in Copenhagen he started working at Kong Hans Kælder, which had been one of the city’s leading gourmet restaurants since the mid 1970s. In 2001 he spent four months working at French Laundry, but returned to Kong Hans Kælder and Copenhagen. In 2002 he met Claus Meyer who had plans to open a Nordic Restaurant and needed a head chef to run the place. NOMA opened in 2003.
You can’t rate taste
NOMA has been voted the best restaurant in the world two years running, and with honour comes responsibility. René Redzepi is very much aware of that. WWW.WHERE2GO.DK
78 DINING
“It’s a great honour to be voted the best restaurant in the world, although I personally don’t think you can rate taste.”
Time line 2003: NOMA opens 2005: NOMA gets its first Michelin star 2006: Voted no. 33 in the San Pellegrino Awards 2007: NOMA gets its second Michelin star and is the Highest Climber (to no. 15) in the San Pellegrino Awards 2008: Voted no. 10 in the San Pellegrino Awards 2009: Voted no. 3 and Chef’s Choice in the San Pellegrino Awards 2010: Voted Best restaurant in the world in the San Pellegrino Awards 2011: Voted Best restaurant in the world in the San Pellegrino Awards
“It’s a great honour to be voted the best restaurant in the world, although I personally don’t think you can rate taste. But of course it creates pressure as well. We owe it to out guests to serve them an unforgettable meal. And we also owe it to our city so that these people will come back. Many of our guests are in town for perhaps a day or a day and a half, and our aim is to give them an experience out of the ordinary so they’ll leave the restaurant pondering what other amazing things Copenhagen has to offer”, he says. A lot has happened on the Copenhagen restaurant scene in the years that NOMA has been part of it. Michelin stars now adorn not only NOMA, but also several other restaurants in the city. It has become much easier to get a high quality meal without bleeding out of your pockets, even on a regular, Tuesday night. The stakes have been raised at many restaurants. “Ten years ago people thought it was great if a restaurant served home made ice cream without ice crystals in it”, he laughs. “Today Copenhageners dine out more frequently and have grown accustomed to a higher level of quality”, he says. That’s not only true for the restaurants. Copenhageners have become more aware of the quality and origin of the food they cook at home. This spring you could buy wild WHERE2GO SEPTEMBER 2011 INTERNATIONAL EDITION
GALLERI VARMING
PROGRAMMET ER: 10/9-1/10. Zura & Jens-Peter Kellermann 8/10-30/10 Hanne Varming & Anne Vilsbøll 5/11-26/11. JAN JOCHIMS 16.-18. SEPT. Art Copenhagen i Forum 8.-30. OKT. Hanne Varming & Anne Vilsbøll 5.-26. NOV. Jan Joachims 3/12-17/12 Special Christmas exhibition
Galleri Varming • Valbylanggade 88B • 2500 Valby www.gallerivarming.dk • tlf. 6116 5041
80 DINING
garlic in the supermarkets. Farmer’s markets are blooming and Copenhageners no longer regard a Provolone from Sicily to automatically be of a higher quality than a cheese made by a small dairy farmer ten miles from where they grew up. NOMA has played a large part in that by constantly focusing on the benefits and abilities of what is just around the corner. “I am always quite annoyed when people compare Copenhagen to other cities. There is no reason for that. Kødbyen will never be like New York’s Meatpacking District and our harbour front will never be a tiny Barcelona. And nor should it. Copenhagen is a wonderful city in it’s own way. We have great restaurants, lots of fresh air, a wonderful, historic atmosphere, people are all in all quite friendly, the traffic is not bad, we have parks and lots and
WHERE2GO SEPTEMBER 2011 INTERNATIONAL EDITION
Some of the dishes that have been served at NOMA Dried scallops and watercress, ink, barley and beechnut. Asparagus cream and pine. Smoked and pickled quail egg. Muikko and scallop, sea urchin and sea buckthorn. Pumpkin and herring with juice made from walnuts. Scorzonera and milk skin, truffle and herbs. Spinach, parsley and lovage steamed in black tea. Reindeer-tongue with apple, malt, thyme, browned butter and roses.
Your unique journey to relaxation A WEllnEss ExpEriEncE For All sEnsEs
Escape from everyday life and retreat to Alter Meierhof, located on the beautiful shore of the baltic sea facing Denmark. We offer a tranquil place, peaceful and refreshing where german traditional hotelculture goes perfectly along with exotic traditional beauty rituals. We are looking forward to seeing you. Uferstraße 1 · 24960 Glücksburg · Tel. +49 4631 6199-0 · Fax +49 4631 6199-99 · info@alter-meierhof.de · www.alter-meierhof.de
82 DINING
René Redzepi’s recommendations for hungry tourists RESTAURANT SCHØNNEMANN restaurantschonnemann.dk “A wonderful, classic, Danish restaurant. I think every one should have a lunch there. The food is genius yet unpretentious.” RELÆ restaurant-relae.dk “It’s a wonderful place. All of Jægersborggade is quite amazing actually. Start out with a coffee at The Coffee Collective, browse in the small shops and end the day with a meal at Relæ or at Manfreds. Superb.” FISKEBAREN fiskebaren.dk “They have really touched a nerve. I love it. It’s so unpretentious, and the food and cocktails there are great.”
WHERE2GO SEPTEMBER 2011 INTERNATIONAL EDITION
lots of water surrounding us. No other city in the world is like Copenhagen, and I think we should focus on our trademarks instead of looking elsewhere and try to be like everyone else”, he says. This is exactly what René Redzepi has done in NOMA’s kitchen, and thus made Copenhagen a favoured travel destination for gourmets, foodies and critics from all over the world. Copenhagen is no longer the last stop – very much thanks to NOMA.
Ny Østergade 3 1101 Kbh. K tel: 3391 9920 • Airport Shop 2770 Kastrup tel: 3231 4869 www.apair.dk
Where to find InteRIOR
hOtel sCandiC 33 14 35 35 scandichotels.dk
hill street 39 64 39 93 hill-street.dk
hOtel twentYseven 70 27 56 27 hotel27.dk
illums bOliGhus 33 14 19 41 illumsbolighus.dk
interstudiO a/s 35 26 31 00 interstudio.dk
skOvshOved hOtel 39 64 00 28 skovshovedhotel.dk
RestauRants CaFes
COnditOri la GlaCe 33 14 46 46 laglace.dk
det kOnGeliGe teater 33 69 69 69 kgl-teater.dk
sOkkelund CaFe & brasserie 38 10 64 00 cafe-sokkelund.dk
det nY teater 33 25 50 75 detnyteater.dk
thOmas sandwiChes 33 13 13 31 / 33 13 13 68 thomassandwiches.dk
CultuRe
dGi-bYen 33 29 80 00 dgi-byen.dk
natiOnalmuseet 33 13 44 11 natmus.dk
enteRtaInMent
sHOPPInG
arnOld busCk 33 73 35 00 / 33 74 86 68 arnoldbusck.dk
blaCk dakini Jewels 23 24 50 63 blackdakini.com
bY malene birGer bymalenebirger.com 35 43 22 33 / 33 18 26 58 / 33 11 44 33 / 45 88 44 33 / 86 12 33 00
kaiku 33 11 19 07 kaiku.dk
kauFmann 33 13 61 65 kaufmann.dk
kJÆr & sOmmerFeldt 70 15 65 00 kogs.dk
laCOste 45 93 40 44 / 33 13 40 55 lacoste.com / lacostelive.com
HOtels
CaFÉ GlYPtOteket 33 41 81 28 glyptoteket.dk
COPenhaGen tOwers 88 77 66 55 cpcopenhagen.dk
CaFÉ sebastOPOl 35 36 30 02 sebastopol.dk
hOtel CitY 33 13 06 66 hotelcity.dk
WHERE2GO SEPTEMBER 2011 INTERNATIONAL EDITION
bettY nansen teatret 33 21 14 90 bettynansen.dk
dansk desiGn Center 33 69 33 69 ddc.dk
nY CarlsberG GlYPtOtek 33 41 81 41 glyptoteket.dk
edisOn 33 21 14 90 bettynansen.dk
etOn brand stOre 33 18 27 04 etonshirts.com
illum 33 14 40 02 illum.dk
inwear 33 14 20 41 / 32 50 55 90 inwear.com
la senZa 32 62 44 20 / 33 32 44 78 / 38 11 19 00 lazenza.dk
Peak PerFOrmanCe 33 78 28 28 peakperformance.com
POvl klarlund 33 11 02 80 / 33 15 53 10 klarlund.dk
Friskbagte croissanter – både testvinderen og vennerne Kaffe eller Starbucks
+15,-
Fyldt med lækker chokolade Fyldt med dejlig hindbær
Frit valg
Fyldt med mandel & marcipan
10,-
2 stk.
Bemærk: Tilbuddet gælder pr. 22. august
Almindelig smørcroissant
Tilbuddet gælder fra d. 22. august til og med d. 11. september 2011.
Ved køb af tilbuddet
Retailers Premier Outlets Center 57 64 41 30 premieroutlets.dk
sand 33 14 21 21 sand-europe.com
shell 44 78 40 98 shell.dk
thiele 36 78 58 22 thiele.dk
welness beauty
CharlOttehaven health Club 35 27 15 00 charlottehaven.com
Cha Cha Cha chachacha.dk
Fitness dk 39 12 99 00 fitnessdk.dk
helle thOruP sPa 33 12 42 00 hellethorup.dk trOelstruP 33 12 13 94 troelstrup.com lJunGberG | saQr i/s 32 83 60 64 ljungberg-saqr.com
nu skin sCandinavia a/s 39 54 80 00 nseeurope.com
WHERE2GO SEPTEMBER 2011 INTERNATIONAL EDITION
Ole waGner 35 37 37 00 olewagner.dk
stuhr men & wOmen 45 85 99 12 stuhr.dk
Balenciaga (Perfume) + 45 44 99 90 99
Matinique + 45 70 30 28 28
Benedikte Utzon + 45 32 54 36 38
Maison Martin Margiela (See Normann Copenhagen)
Black Lily + 45 87 49 39 49
Monies + 45 33 91 33 33
Black Secret + 45 70 20 20 79
Munthe plus Simonsen + 45 33 32 00 12
Blond Accessories + 45 42 40 82 02
NN07 + 45 33 37 68 00
Charlotte Sparre + 45 45 89 40 40
Normann Copenhagen + 45 35 55 44 59
Custommade + 45 35 82 20 53
Prim I Am + 45 70 20 91 30
Ellos + 45 70 10 02 00
Rützou + 45 70 27 06 16
Falke + 4531 19 89 00
Sand + 45 33 11 17 18
Glitter + 45 33 32 12 60
S’NOB de Noblesse + 45 86 10 01 05
Inwear + 45 33 78 28 28
Soulland + 45 60 14 22 94
Jackpot + 45 70 30 28 28
Strenesse + 45 33 11 17 01
JEWLSCPH + 45 35 83 08 30
Wackerhaus + 45 27 29 37 20
Malene Birger + 45 33 26 96 58
Whyred + 45 70 25 01 32
Margit Brandt + 45 86 10 01 05
Won Hundred + 45 36 16 09 04
Special all incluSive rateS on car rental
Reservation, please call +45 89 33 11 33 40 rental locations in Denmark covering all major cities and all airports (in terminal). For more infomation or reservations, please call +45 89 33 11 33 or white to reservations@europcar.dk.
Copenhagen Guide Fall/Winter
2011
City vesterbro østerbro Nørrebro Frederiksberg Islands Brygge Christianshavn
shopping
Eating
sightseeing
From famous fashion brands to the absolute finest in Danish design - Copenhagen has it all
Michelin-restaurants and fast food on the go - our guide to dining and drinking in Copenhagen
Yes, Copenhagen really is a living, breathing postcard. Let us show you what to see
ANNONCE
Copenhagen Guide Fall/Winter
2011
Contents 03 Welcome editors letter 05 practical Information nice to know before you go 08 Map of Copenhagen
eaTInG 12 dining with a view The best restaurants in the best locations
18 eat, drink and be merry Breakfast, lunch, dinner and drinks
SIGHTSeeInG 28 Copenhagen on two wheels How to bike in Copenhagen
36 It’s playtime! Copenhagen for the kids 40 Winter in Copenhagen
the happiest place on earth
W
elcome to Copenhagen, a city known for being the home of some of the happiest people on the planet. For those of us who live here, we’re not really sure why this is the best city in the world, we just know that it is. Maybe it’s because we have some of the best food in the world, from Michelin-awarded restaurants, including the best one there is, to those less fancy yet equally fantastic restaurants. Is it because this city just looks so amazingly beautiful from the seat of a bike? or the fact that there’s always somewhere to go, something to see on a rainy day, and that Copenhagen covered in white snow is the most picturesque thing you’ll ever see? on the following pages, we’ll take you on a beautiful bike ride of Copenhagen and show you all the places that make us so excited about this city you’ve now arrived in. We’ll lead you to some of Copenhagen’s many restaurants, some expensive, some cheap, some with an amazing view and some who just do what restaurants do best: keep you happy and going.
A night of Culture, Halloween in Tivoli, CpH DoX and Christmas in nyhavn
And trust us, you will need the energy. Copenhagen offers some of the finest choices when it comes to shopping. If you’re looking for international brands, you’ll find it. If you’re looking for the bravest and boldest in contemporary Danish design, you’ll find it. Together with everything in between.
SHoppInG
So welcome – we hope you’ll come to love Copenhagen just as much as we do.
What to do during the chilly season
49 Four events you shouldn’t miss
54 Spending spree at Strøget The cities best boutiques
Further tourist information on visitcopenhagen.com or in the Visitor Centre on Vesterbrogade 4A
published by Wonderful Copenhagen, September 2011 production/text/layout/DTp: Aller Client publishing/WHere2Go number printed: 30,000 ex. photos from copenhagenmediacenter.com by nicolai perjesi, Tuala Hjarnø, Ty Stange, Christian Alsing and Kasper Thye
visitcopenhagen.com 3
ANNONCE
Practical information Transportation:
The Metro is open all week, all night long. Some night busses and Strains are available at night as well. Most destinations in Copenhagen are within the 2 zone area. The 2-zone ticket is 24 DKK (February 2011). Save money with a multi-trip ticket. A 10 trip-card is 140 DKK. All cabs accept international credit cards.
copenhagen Card:
To make it all easier buy the copenhagen CArD. It includes free entrance to 65 museums and attractions, free transportation with bus, train and metro and a discount on car rental and other attractions. pay 229 DKK (115 DKK for children) for 24 hours or 459 DKK (225 DKK for children) for 72 hours. Two children under 10 years of age may accompany an adult cardholder free of charge. See the list of attractions offering free entry and places offering discounts to cardholders at copenhagencard.com.
Copenhagen Card
alcohol and tobacco:
You must be 16 to buy beer in shops and 18 to buy liquor. You have to be 18 to buy alcohol in bars. You must be 18 to buy cigarettes. Smoking is prohibited in most bars, restaurants and cafes.
emergencies:
If it’s an emergency dial 112 to contact the police, call for an ambulance or the firefighting service. If you wish to contact the nearest police station dial 114.
Shopping and nightlife hours:
Most shops are closed on Sundays – except for the first Sunday of the month. Many close at 16 on Saturdays. Kiosks, takeaway venders, bakeries and select supermarkets are open all week. Large stores and supermarkets usually stay open longer, and outside ordinary shopping hours, various kiosks are open for sale of newspapers and sweets. Many bars and clubs are open until 4 or 5 during the weekends. Tips are included everywhere so it should only be given for exceptionally good service.
visitcopenhagen.com 5
Practical information Copenhagen app guide:
Download the app Visit Copenhagen – The official City Guide for your iphone or Android phone. This comprehensive app guide has all you need: shopping, sightseeing, dining – but more importantly it contains a list of the current events happening in Copenhagen, searchable by date and location. needs data roaming, so look for those Wi-Fi hotspots. price: Free
What’s up with those danes?
bike culture: Many tourists are overwhelmed with the number of people using their bikes as transportation in Copenhagen. Be alert when you’re walking or driving - a lot of the time you don’t see or hear them coming, and many of them have a tendency to break the traffic code in their hurry to get from A to B. read more about the Danish bike culture on page 28. Humour: Danes believe they have a really good sense of humour – judge for yourself – at least they always tend to use a lot of irony. So count to ten before you get offended by some seemingly crude remark – more often than not the Danes will just start laughing at their own ironic jokes. Language: Most Copenhageners speak very good english. It will without a doubt be easier to speak english when communicating with them rather than taking on the tortuous Danish language. It is however a good idea to know these few essential words: Cheers! � Skål! Thank you � Tak Yes � Ja no � nej
6 visitcopenhagen.com
Free mobile guide
to Copenhagen!
ANNONCE Available for: · iPhone – go to Appstore – VisitCopenhagen · Android – go to Android Market – VisitCopenhagen · All other phones – go to cphopen.com or text “cphopen” to +45 2290 4000
• Find the nearest attractions, museums or restaurants • Get updated on events near you • Get information on our cOPENhagen Card • Find your way around, and much more…
Open for mobile
The mobile service is free of charge but you pay for the data traffic. We recommend WiFi when available.
NOR
BISPEBJERG
ØSTERBRO
NØRREBRO
FUGLEBAKKEN
NØRREBRO
ØSTERP
GRØNDAL
FREDERIKSBERG SOLBJERG
NØRREPORT
FORUM
FREDERIKSBERG
CITY
KGS. NYTORV
VESTERPORT
CH
KBH H.
VESTERBRO DYBBØLSBRO VALBY
ENGHAVE
ISLAND BRYGGE
ISLAN BRYG
RDHAVN
HOw tO usE tHE mAP The centre of Copenhagen is divided into seven different boroughs, each with their own unique feeling. This map shows you where the different boroughs are, and with each mention in the magazine you’ll see a coloured dot referring to this map. A blue dot means that the restaurant, museum etc is at Østerbro, a dark green dot means that it’s in the city (Copenhagen K) etc. ØSTerbro
Compared to other parts of Copenhagen, Østerbro is less hectic. But it’s also the part of Copenhagen that offers most recreational areas – such as the city’s largest public park, Fælledparken – and some of the finest cafées in the city.
PORT
nØrrebro
The edgiest part of Copenhagen, a place where hipsters, students, families and immigrants from all over the world mix at cafés and galleries. Also home to some of the most exclusive independent shops and restaurants in Copenhagen. FrederIKSberG
Technically, Frederiksberg isn’t a part of Copenhagen, despite being right in the middle of it. The real forte of Frederiksberg lies in the numerous parks, bicycle paths and beautiful avenues. perfect for quiet strolls before hitting the local nightlife. VeSTerbro
CHRISTIANSHAVN
CITY
Juice to go, drinks to stay and an abundance of bold Danish design. Copenhagen K – known as city or just downtown – is a Mecca whether you are hungry for food or eager to shop. In short – everything you need.
HRISTIANSHAVN
NDS GGE
An extensive renovation in the mid-nineties redeveloped and tranformed Vesterbro from a run-down working-class district to the hippest neighbourhood in town, with nightclubs, restaurants, bars and independent retailers lining the streets.
CHrISTIanSHaVn
In this quarter, cut through by pretty canals, you find a mix of top designers, stylish architects and scruffy hippies, top celebrities and working class pensioners. Home to both the world’s best restaurant and the freetown of Christiania, it’s well worth a visit. ISLand brYGGe
AMAGERBRO
From Islands Brygge – or Bryggen – you have a great view of Copenhagen. During the warm summer months, thousands of Copenhageners go here, either to swim in the popular harbour bath or to play sports on the many open lawns along the harbour.
S-train station
Metro station
10 visitcopenhagen.com
Eating
T
wenty years ago, denmark was famous for Hans Christian andersen and the fact that we had just won the european football championships. Today, denmark and especially Copenhagen is just as famous for fantastic restaurants as for fairytales and football skills. not only do we have the best restaurant in the world, noMa, and the world’s best cook in Geranium’s rasmus Kofoed, who recently won first place at the bocuse d’or – there’s also an abundance of fantastic restaurants all over Copenhagen. Some have Michelin-stars, some don’t, but all of them are well worth a visit. In this section, we show you where to enjoy your next meal. In dining With a View, we guide you to the restaurants where the view is as spectacular as the food, but regardless of whether you’re just looking for a quick bite for lunch or planning the grand five-course dinner at a Michelin-restaurant, there are plenty of opportunities awaiting your order. dinner is served. Velbekomme!
visitcopenhagen.com 11
Dining with a
view
Food and wine don’t also make for an exquisite meal. a fantastic view is the icing on the cake for your next night out. We guide you to the best eating-places in town, with a view that will blow you away. Words Sofie Korsgaard photos Tuala Hjarnø, Benita Marcussen and others
12 visitcopenhagen.com
For several years Sticks’n’sushi has left most of the city’s sushi restaurants standing, and since 2010 sushi lovers have enjoyed nigiries and ginger with a fantastic view of Islands Brygge. Sticks’n’sushi invites you in to their sophisticated restaurant located on the 12th floor of the spectacular Tivoli Hotel at Kalvebod Brygge. Get comfortable in one of the big swings in front of the windows to get a view of the Torso in Malmö and the Zoo in Frederiksberg, while you enjoy a cocktail from
the bar, or your dessert and a cup coffee after dinner. When it’s time for sushi you can go all Japanese with bare feet or sit at the restaurant’s tables. If you can’t get enough of the crazy view you can also stand on the long plate of glass, which gives you an unobstructed view of the 12 floors below you, and guarantees a rush of blood to the head for any one with the slightest fear of heights!
EAtING
Raw fish with a harbour view
Sticks’n’sushi at Tivoli Hotel Arni magnussons gade 2 Vesterbro Sushi.dk
Sky bar
Heavenly Cocktails
Sticks’n’sushi
Visit Ørestaden for a trip to heaven. This year, Scandinavia’s biggest hotel and Denmark’s leanest building, Bella Sky Comwell opened its doors. The hotel has no less than 23 floors, and on the top floor you’ll find the Sky Bar where you can sip exclusive cocktails and eat fantastic food while enjoying the exceptional view. At Sky Bar, the menu is filled with champagne, caviar and cocktail so if you’re in the mood for a luxury night out this is the place to visit! While living the good life you
can enjoy the view of Amager Fælled and even catch a glimpse of Sweden. Saturday and Sunday, the hotel goes all in on luxury and invites you to a champagne brunch with oysters and the lot. even the interior speaks for itself: inspired by the colours of heaven, the Sky Bar is yellow and orange like the morning sun, blue like a summer sky, and dark and black like the night. Sky bar, bella Sky Comwell Center Boulevard 5 Copenhagen S Bellasky.dk
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A three-plane harbour view
The Harbour
Dining among great designs In third place of restaurants in the sky is gourmet restaurant Alberto K, located on the 20th floor of an old skyscraper, which is also the home of radisson Blu royal Hotel. The restaurant offers an extraordinary view of the centre of Copenhagen, and you don’t have to worry about missing the view, since the kitchen is located in the middle of the room giving every table a window seat. Just like the rest of the building, Alberto K is heavily inspired by the designs of Arne Jacobsen. He designed the Swan and the egg especially for the hotel, and in the restaurant you’ll find his designs in everything from cutlery and furniture to salt and pepper shakers and lamps, which gives the restaurant an elegant 60’s look. The food is modern Italian and Danish , and critics gush about this place, making a visit a pleasure to the palate as well as the eyes.
If you appreciate architecture, restaurant The Harbour might be the place for your next meal. The restaurant is located at Hotel Copenhagen Island, and like the hotel The Harbour is designed by Kim Utzon, son of the renowned Jørn Utzon who among other things designed the Sydney opera House. As the name suggests, the restaurant has a front view of the Copenhagen Harbour, and with panoramic windows everywhere you can’t miss the splendid view, no matter where you sit. The restaurant is staggered in three planes giving 226 guests the opportunities to eat in the beautiful surroundings. The Harbour offers breakfast, lunch, and an a la carte evening menu if you wish to enjoy an impressive harbour view in the evening twilight. restaurant The Harbour Copenhagen Island. Kalvebod Brygge 53 Vesterbro Theharbour.dk
alberto K at The royal Hammerichsgade 1 Vesterbro Alberto-k.dk alberto K
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alberto K
ANNONCE
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A touch of michelin at Christianshavn If you love the old buildings, the canals and the boats at Christianshavn as much as we do you must reserve a table at restaurant Kanalen. Unlike most of the other restaurants in this guide we are on ground level here, but the view of the cosy canals are just as satisfactory and beautiful as if you were on the 20th floor. restaurant Kanalen invites you in to their cosy, low-ceilinged, red brick house, which is literally located right at the canal. Besides a beautiful view, the restaurant also offer very delicate meals, which their Bib Gourmand rating in the Michelin guide is more than
The dining room
Café Hovedtelegrafen
proof of. Try their six-course Christianshavn-menu while overlooking the water and the passing boats. restaurant Kanalen Wilders plads 2 Christianshavn restaurant-kanalen.dk
Lunch at the Post museum
A sense of New York
You don’t always have to eat lunch at expensive cafés on the sidewalk where people step on your newly bought purchases, or you have to move your chair every time a pram passes by. Instead, take the elevator to the 5th floor on top of the post & Tele Museum, and enjoy a nice lunch on top of the city among copper spires and towers. The view on top of this historical building is both beautiful and peaceful, and you’re introduced to a world of verdigris green spires and sculptures that you rarely notice on your shopping spree on Strøget. From up here you see the round Tower, the Marble Church and Christiansborg from a completely new angle while you eat a burger, Danish open sandwiches or a big Sunday brunch.
In this guide, The Dining room gets top marks – at least when it comes to floors. You have to press on the 25th floor in the elevator to visit the gourmet restaurant, which is located on the top of Scandinavia Hotel in Amager. The reward is nothing less than a staggering view of the city, which might seem a bit scary for those who suffer from a fear of heights. In Copenhagen this is possibly the closest you’ll get to a view from a skyscraper in new York. You should definitely grant yourself permission to try a delicious gourmet meal, but enjoying the view at the bar can also suffice. The bar’s interior offers bar stools and furniture with a more lounge feeling to it – in nice designs of course.
Café Hovedtelegrafen Købmagergade 37 City Cafehovedtelegrafen.dk restaurant Kanalen
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The dining room Amager Boulevard 70 Copenhagen S Thediningroom.dk
ANNONCE Ny Østergade 9 / Pistolstræde CoPeNhageN K (+45) 3314 5743 ◆ alsaCe@alsaCe.dK ◆ alsaCe.dK oPeN: MoN-sat 11:30-24:00 aNd the first suNday of the MoNth 11:30-16:00 Closed: offiCial daNish religious holidays
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Eat, drink and be merry In Copenhagen, there’s a restaurant for every appetite. Whether you’re looking for a breakfast to get you started, some lunch to keep you going or a romantic dinner, the chefs of Copenhagen can cater to your needs. Here are some of the best restaurants, cafés and wine bars we have to offer.
Words Søren McGuire photos Tuala Hjarnø, Benita Marcussen, Kristian Holm and others
BREAKFAst Dag H
Despite the fact that most Danes prefer to eat their breakfast at home, Café Dag H manages to draw people from near and far for their daily breakfast servings. Maybe it’s because the cafe, located right next to the American embassy, offers what is most likely the largest selection of coffee in Copenhagen to go with your pain au chocolat or eggs, or because the settings are absolutely stunning – both inside where you can enjoy your breakfast in front of the open fire place, or outside with the spectacular view of the lakes cutting through Copenhagen. Breakfast is availbale MondayFriday from 8 - 10.
dag H Dag Hammerskjölds Alle 38 Østerbro Dagh.dk
dag H
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LuNCH Kanal Caféen
Granola
Granola
If you’re looking for the big breakfast buffet that will keep your stomach going till dinner, we suggest you try the buffet at Hilton right next to the airport. But if you want a breakfast experience that will leave you with a proper idea of how Copenhageners prefer their breakfast, visit Granola. The small street Værnedamsvej is among the hippest in Copenhagen, thanks in part to this small and intimate café. The decor will most likely remind you of english tea houses from days long gone, the service is friendly and polite and the breakfast is very good.
Granola Værnedamsvej 5 Vesterbro
Kanal Caféen is right behind Christiansborg, home of the Danish parliament. Inside, it looks like nothing much has changed in the 150 years, the café has existed. The waiters just might be the original ones too: blackvested, bear-gutted men´s men with tongue-in-cheek remarks for everyone. At Kanal Caféen you are in a bustling hot pot of journalists, renowned politicians and civil servants, all reminding you that politics are going down close by. The menu is traditional. Herrings: pickled, marinated, au naturel, some cold meats and a modest selection of cheese. You simply tick off what you want on the menu, and seconds later your order is before you. You will not find this kind of living history anywhere else in Copenhagen.
Kanal Caféen Frederiksholms Kanal 18 City Kanalcafeen.dk
schönnemann’s
Schönnemann has been serving traditional Danish smørrebrød (rye bread with toppings) and schnapps since 1877. Besides having an impressively large menu it’s the large selection of schnapps – more than 70 different brands - that grabs your attention. You have to book a table three to four weeks in advance, if you want a table during the weekend, but then you’re also allowed the pleasure of enjoying beer and schnapps at the Lunch restaurant of the Year 2010 according to the Danish restaurant Guide. If you want to try all of the house schnapps, you can begin at 11.30 and have one served every fourth minute and then you are probably done in more ways than one by five o’clock when the restaurant closes.
restaurant Schønnemann Hauser plads 16 City restaurantschonnemann.dk
O’s American
Thousands of American citizens visit Copenhagen each year, and most of them will probably be glad to hear that Copenhagen also offers good, old fashioned American breakfast. A visit to one of the two o’s American diners in Copenhagen (one at Østerbro and one downtown) might be a greasy experience, but it’ll be hard not to allow yourself a little indulgence when faced with a menu filled with pancakes, smoothies, eggs & bacon, hash browns etc. If you’re more in the mood for lunch or dinner, o’s American also serves burgers, sandwiches and other traditional American courses. o’s american Gothersgade 15 City and Øster Farimagsgade 27 Østerbro osamerican.dk
Schönnemann’s
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madklubben tivoli
The trouble with restaurants is that you always have to decide what you want, and faced with delicious choices such as roast beef, tartar, sausages, desserts, salads and fish, it can be rather frustrating noT being able to order all the courses. But at Madklubben in Tivoli you can. Their lunch menu is probably the best in Copenhagen. The popular and beautiful restaurant serves traditional Danish cuisine like our grandmothers made it, and all the different courses are 50 DKK each. You’ll probably need at least three to settle your appetite, but from there on the sky’s the limit.
Madklubben Tivoli
Hungry after midnight? Compared to other cities, it can be quite difficult to find a decent meal after 22. This is in part due to the fact that most Danes rarely eat that late, but also because only few restaurants can afford to hire staff at those hours. So unless you’re willing to ”settle” for a
Madklubben Tivoli Tivoli, Vesterbrogade 3 Vesterbro Madklubben.dk
burger, kebab or pizza, we suggest you either visit the, among locals, famous and perhaps even infamous rio Bravo restaurant who serve pub food until 4, or restaurant Vita, one of Copenhagen’s oldest restaurant. They serve traditional Danish quisine all through the night on weekends. rio Bravo Vester Voldgade 86 City riobravo.dk
restaurant Vita Store Kongensgade 25 City restaurantvita.dk
Vita
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DINNER Restaurant Relæ
Have you ever been at a restaurant where the setting is so formal you’re afraid the waiter might throw you out for handling the cutlery wrong or asking stupid questions about the wine? Well, at restaurant relæ you get the best of both worlds. The head chef Christian puglisi has worked at two of the world’s best restaurants, Il Bulli and noMA, but despite his honours, his mission is to serve exquisite nordic food with the best ingredients availabe while actually making you feel both welcome and appreciated at the same time.
restaurant relæ Jægersborggade 41 nørrebro restaurant-relae.dk
Kung Fu
The so-called Izakaya is an original Japanese form of tavern where miners and other workers could enjoy a selection of small Japanese meals and courses and wash it all down with local beer – almost like an Asian version of tapas. Copenhagen now has two of these Izakayas, and they’re well worth a visit if you’re looking for something a bit more exciting and exotic than just another round of sushi. Choose between such dishes as traditional springrolls, wontons, fried calamari and so on. Kung Fu also offers desserts and some of the best cocktails in town. Kung Fu Izakaya Sundevedsgade 5 Vesterbro and ravnsborggade 16B nørrebro Kungfubar.dk
ANNONCE TUESDAY-FRIDAY 11-22 SATURDAY & SUNDAY 11-18 LOUISIANA.DK Main Sponsor for Louisiana Alexander Calder Almost Snow Plough, 1964/76
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drinks
More thirsty, less hungry? Here are three of the best wine bars in Copenhagen.
Falernum A very popular and informal wine- and tapas bar on Værnedamsvej, one of Copenhagen’s hippest streets running between Vesterbro and Frederiksberg. The place isn’t big, so in the summer, guests spill out into the street with wine glasses in hand, but it should be possible to get a table even on weekends if you come early. MaSH
mAsH
Most grown men would probably disagree, but the classic steak actually vanished from most menus for quite some time. However, the last few years have seen many steakhouses resurfacing in Copenhagen, and among these, MASH is the most popular. The big restaurant serves the biggest, juciest steaks in Copenhagen, and they even have their own unique fries which is just as big an attraction as the meat. While you’re there, try one of the delicious cocktails as well.
Falernum Værnedamsvej 16 Vesterbro patepate.dk/falernum
paté paté The meatpacking disctrict (Kødbyen) is am extremely popular
hang out for Copenhageners of most ages, so if you find yourself there, make sure you visit paté paté. Their kitchen is great, but their selection of wines is greater. paté paté Slagterboderne 1, Vesterbro patepate.dk
Il Senso Walking down the basement steps to Il Senso is like walking straight into Tuscany. The selection of wines is very impressive, but the real attraction is the fact that you manage to completely forget that you’re in Copenhagen and not Italy for an hour or two. Il Senso Gothersgade 87 City Ilsenso.dk
MaSH Bredgade 20 City Mashsteak.dk
Fru Heiberg
Fru Heiberg is named after Johanne Luise Heiberg who was the leading social figure in Copenhagen in the mid-1800’s. The small restaurant used to focus on French cuisine, but has now undergone a complete gastronomical make over, and the result is equally recommendable. Fru Heiberg now runs a traditional Danish kitchen with emphasis put on superb ingredients, classic Danish dishes and even a few courses you probably won’t see too many other places. Like the traditional Danish dessert, rødgrød med fløde.
Fru Heiberg rosenvængets Allé 3 Østerbro Fruheiberg.dk
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Il Senso
Tag pĂĽ eventyr i Odense
ANNONCE Oplev Odense med et Odense Oplevelsespas
Passet koster 129,00 og giver fri entrĂŠ til 10 attraktioner, gratis bustransport og 50 % rabat i Odense Zoo
www.visitodense.com
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Ad libitum
Nyhavn 14
eat and drink all you want.
Italian food traditions in cosy, danish surroundings.
Ad Libitum is situated directly opposite the Town Hall in the heart of Copenhagen. Ad Libitum offers a luxury buffet where you can eat and drink all you want from just 99 DKK. The restaurant also offers a large a la carte menu, and the opportunity to enjoy your food outside. Ad Libitum also offers seating for smokers.
Ad Libitum rådhupladsen 75 City phone: 45 33132747 Adlibitum-kbh.dk
maven
a simple eatery with quality wine and great beer. ’Maven’ is the old nickname for nikolaj plads, which used to be the home of the city’s butcher’s stalls, and the informal charm is still very much alive. The place is all about your stomach (Stomach meaning ’Maven’ in Danish) and is a very good choice for lunch, a good cup of coffee or a relaxing meal in the evening. You can also enjoy a drink or two after dinner. The place is open from 11.30 till midnight on weekdays, and maven nikolaj plads 10 City Booking�restaurantmaven.dk
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This cosy restaurant which is both an eatery and wine bar is simply called The eatery by locals, and you’ll find it in one of the cosiest streets in Copenhagen. nyhavn 14 is a historical address at the waterfront. The address oozes of traditions, atmos-
phere – and for many years this place has had a rich, gastronomic feel to it. The place is cosy and warm with a nice atmosphere, and above all lovely food and wine. The theme of the kitchen is Italian with focus on simple, tasteful and good produce, adding a pinch of inspiration from their own backyard.
Nyhavn 14 nyhavn 14 City nyhavn14.dk
Icebar Copenhagen Cool off in the heart of Copenhagen!
closes at two on Fridays and Saturdays.
ICeBAr CopenHAGen by ICeHoTeL is a place for attitude and playfulness where world-renowned artists have turned crystal clear ice from far above the Arctic Circle into art, design and stories. It’s a place where jewellery is as great as it
comes, but where diamonds aren’t forever. ICEBAR COPENHAGEN by ICEHOtEL Løngangstræde 27 City phone: 45 7027 5627 Icebarcph.com
French cuisine when it’s best.
Bjørnekælderen Food for thought.
Close to Strøget, just 300 meter from the royal Danish Theatre at Kgs. nytorv, is the oldest French restaurant in Copenhagen, having been here since 1978. Visit the cosy restaurant in ny Østergade, where they serve delicious fish dishes, shellfish and other French delicacies.
Restaurant Alsace ny Østergade 9/pistolstræde City Alsace.dk
magstræde 16
pizza and antipasti in the city’s cosiest street. Magstræde 16 is a historical address in the Latin Quarter of Copenhagen where the atmosphere is warm and cosy, and the food is as lovely as the wine. The restaurant often invites talented guest chefs in to their kitchen, where the chefs create their favourite pizza from a gastronomically view point. The pizzas vary from season to season, and are called ’Signatur-pizze’ on the menu,
magstræde 16 – Eatery and enoteca Magstræde 16 City Magstraede16.dk
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Restaurant Alsace
focus on traditional Danish cuisine made from the best, seasonal produce, and where sustainability is high on the agenda. The menu includes traditional dishes from ’grandma’s kitchen’ and dishes with a modern twist. Bjørnekælderen has been around since 1895. Before that it was a real bear cellar (Bjørnekælder in Danish), where the bear tamer from Frederiksberg lived with his bears when they weren’t performing. Today, Bjørnekælderen is a restaurant with
Bjørnekælderen hos tanja Frederiksberg Alle 55 Frederiksberg phone: 45 33 31 62 52 Bjornekæelderen.dk info bjornekaelderen.dk
La Glace
pastries and cakes for every taste.
which also includes lots of other delicious, Italian dishes.
Conditori La Glace is the oldest and perhaps also the best confectionery shop in Copenhagen. It was founded on october 8 1870 in the middle of the oldest parts of Copenhagen and has through six generations been purveying quality of life for Copenhageners and other worthies. It would be our
pleasure to invite you in the beautiful old rooms, where you can experience true pastry art. You can even take some of the tradition-steeped cakes with you home for the afternoon tea. experience quality of life for the soul and try the legendary hot chocolate with a piece of seductive Sportskage (sports cake).
Conditori La Glace Skoubogade 3 City phone: 45 3314 4646 Laglace.dk
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sightseeing
e
gypt has the pyramids, new York City has the Statue of Liberty, Beijing has the Great Wall, and Copenhagen has The Little Mermaid. Compared to other famous tourist attractions, she might be miniscule, but that doesn’t make the young lady any less of an attraction.
But that’s not all. There’s also the world’s first amusement park, Tivoli, the fairytale-looking rosenborg Castle, home of the crown jewels, an abundance of world famous modern architecture, and, if you’re here during Christmas, some of the cosiest markets you can imagine. Long story short, Copenhagen really is a living, breathing, vibrating postcard. What you see in the travel brochures is truly what you’ll see in Copenhagen. Some you’ll recognise, some you won’t, but we’re absolutely sure that you’ll remember all of it. Let us be your personal tourist guide and remind you why you came to Copenhagen in the first place. So on your bikes. The tour starts now.
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Copenhagen on two wheels Hardly anywhere else in the world do you find as many people on bikes as you do in Copenhagen, and the city is full of city bikes, carrier bikes and taxies on two wheels. Copenhagen has almost 350 km of bicycle lanes, and everyday one out of three Copenhageners take their bike to school or work. do as they do, and experience the bikefriendly capital on two wheels. Words Andreas Grubbe Kirkelund
Free city bikes are available all over the city – 110 places to be exact. All you need is 20 DKK and you’ll have your own bike with a build-in map, setting you up for some sightseeing of your own choosing. The bikes can be used in Central Copenhagen, meaning inside the city’s ramparts. once you’ve finished, leave the bike at one of the stands and you’ll get your money back. The concept of city bikes actually originated in Copenhagen and has since been exported to other european cities. Sustainable rental bikes can be found at Baisikeli. The concept here is that every bike that’s ever been rented out is shipped to Africa where they are renovated and sold. The profit goes to the development of a sustainable bike industry in Africa. Get the whole story in the store at Turensensgade 10 where you can also rent a bike for 50 DKK a day. This way you’re helping financing more bikes in Africa while riding along the bicycle lanes in Copenhagen. By the way, Baisikeli means bicycle in Swahili. More info: Cph-bike-rental.dk phone: 45 2240 9505
photo Tuala Hjarnø
photo Mikael Colville-Andersen
Rent a bike Get yourself some wheels
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photo nicolai perjesi
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Guided tours – sightseeing from the saddle
photo Christian Alsing
bike-Mike has become somewhat of a legend when it comes to guided bicycle tours in Copenhagen – and it’s only taken him a few years. His company Bike Copenhagen With Mike offers four types of guided tours around the city with stops along the way. every tour takes around three hours and costs 260 DKK, including bike rental. Bike Mike starts his tours at Turensensgade 10. More info: Bikecopenhagenwithmike.dk phone: 45 2639 5688
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Copenhagen rickshaw is perfect if you wish to explore Copenhagen on bike, but have no desire to do the biking yourself. rickshaws are normally used in the Far east, and the bikes in Copenhagen have been imported from India and rebuild to match Danish standards, including more space for long-legged passengers. The rickshaws will get you from A to B, but if you’re in the mood for some sightseeing the guides behind the wheels are more than capable. The
rickshaws aren’t located anywhere particular, but catch them with a wave or whistle when you see them passing by. More info: rickshaw.dk phone: 45 3543 0122 Copenhagen Tours let you experience the major tourist sights, while moving as locals. The daily tour from Vodroffsvej 55 near Forum takes you to the unknown backyards and other little hideaways which all contribute to making Copenhagen a unique city. The cost of the tour is 270 DKK – bike included, and kids get half price. More info: Copenhagen-tours.dk phone: 45 3543 0122
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Flying Tigers rickshaw lets you rest your legs and offers three different cycle taxi-safaris with an audio guide in english, German, Spanish, Italian, French or Danish. prices start at 400 DKK for two people and you get to see the most important landmarks in the city. Book a tour online or call for a pickup and lean back and enjoy the ride. More info Flyingtigers-cykeltaxa.dk phone: 45 2731 3833
With almost 350 km of bike lanes in the city there isn’t anywhere you can’t go on two wheels. But if you’ve already seen the popular sights of the city and feel a bit more adventurous you should steer off the crowded roads and head for some of the green routes that run through the city. Here there is no heavy traffic and if your biking skills are a bit rusty, these are the perfect places to refresh your pedalling powers.
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Cycling rules – How to act in traffic
When you move around the city on your bike it’s important to feel safe, especially in crowded areas – so here are some basic rules that will make your cycling experience safer and more enjoyable for everyone. raise your hand Before you jam the brakes it’s a really good idea to raise your hand to let the ones behind you know that you are planning to stop. The same goes for when you are planning to make a turn; put out your right arm to let others know that you are making a turn. Love your brain More and more of the many cyclists around town are wearing a helmet. over the past decade it’s gone from being a bit dorky to being trendy. So when you rent a bike make sure that you get a helmet – it just shows that you like your brain. Hold the line especially around the typical rush hour you’ll notice that some cyclists are moving through the city quite fast. The best way to avoid any of them bumping into you from behind is to stay on your right. ring ring ring The nice little bell on your handlebar is cyclists’ way of communicating. When you hear a ring, it usually means that someone behind you is about to overtake you. But you can also use it if you see something really cool or if you wish to get someone’s attention. remember to give a big smile if your ring works!
Facts
photo Tuala Hjarnø
– nice to know
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• 90 percent of all Copenhageners own a bicycle • When the Danish comedian Jacob Haugaard was elected for the national parliament in 1994, his most famous election promise was more tail wind on the bike lanes. • In total, Copenhageners ride 1,21 million km on their bikes everyday. • every time the local authorities make a new bike lane it adds 20 % more cyclists and reduces the use of cars by 10 %. • The bike couriers in Copenhagen are among the fastest in the world.
ANNONCE Seasons
Summer 14 Apr.-25 Sep. Halloween 14-23 October Christmas 11 Nov.-30 Dec. Closed 24-25 Dec.
Halloween at Tivoli
Christmas at Tivoli
For the sixth year running we look forward to welcoming our guests for the annual Halloween season, running on 14 - 23 October. Experience the Gardens, decorated throughout with a record number of Danish grown pumpkins, see a free show with the popular Witches Circus on the Open Air Stage, take a turn at cutting your own pumpkin head and much more. As always all our rides are open, fresh food is available from our many stalls and eateries and Halloween goodies can be purchased around the Gardens.
On November 11th Tivoli Gardens will open her gates for a brand new Christmas season. Our prominent news this year is the premiere of a brand new Russian Village, constructed in the middle of the Gardens. Among the attractions in the Russian Village are our very own version of the famous St. Basil’s Cathedral, from the Red Square in the Kremlin. In addition the Gardens are abound with plenty of our traditional Christmas offerings; delicious food, beautiful sights and cozy atmosphere and a wide range of rides. Forever like never before.
www.tivoligardens.com
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Scan the code with the ‘ScanLife’ app on your smartphone and see why Copenhagen loves bikes.
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Pedalling tradition – what’s with all the bikes?
They didn’t just show up overnight - the bikes. Copenhagen has had a bike culture for over 100 years. In the beginning bikes weren’t that popular. They were unsafe and to make things worse people would actually throw stuff at people who were trying to enjoy a ride on their two wheelers. Luckily, things changed and in 1905 a schoolteacher formed the Danish Cyclist Association. His mission was to make it better and safer to ride a bike in the city. Today cycling has never been more popular, and everyone from schoolteachers and workers to politicians and businessmen use their bikes for their daily commute.
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Curious? ANNONCE
- nothing but good experiences
Your visit to the Zoo supports the Zoo’s work in the wild - zoo.dk
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photo experimentarium/Thomas Cato
hether you’re on a short visit or longer stay in Copenhagen, there are lots of attractions and entertainment for kids of all ages. Travelling with kids will give you free places reserved in buses and trains for prams and pushchairs, and of course reductions at all museums, galleries and entertainments.
The museum has a kids-friendly division where one side of the room has been transformed into a real ship with lines of cannons that kids may climb on. Tycho Brahe planetarium is Denmark’s most advanced centre for popularising astronomy and space research. All day long you can watch spectacular IMAX films that show you nature’s magnificence, whether they take you below the surface of the sea, out in space, or into the jungle. ExPERImENtARIum Tuborg Havnevej 7 Hellerup experimentarium.dk tHE ROYAL DANIsH NAvAL musEum Free overgaden oven Vandet 58 entrance with C O P E NHAGE Christianshavn N C A RD orlogsmuseet.dk tYCHO BRAHE PLANEtARIum Gammel Kongevej 10 Vesterbro Tycho.dk
Playgrounds and parks Many parks in Copenhagen have playgrounds or other activities for kids. one of the most popular playgrounds is in HC Ørsted parken, close to nørreport Station. Here is everything a kid desires: biycles, toys, moon cars, hockey, mini soccer, table tennis, basketball and a fire place. on top of
museums for kids At the experimentarium in Hellerup, five kilometers north of Copenhagen, you can explore the fascinating world of science. Almost 300 interactive exhibits about science and technology are on offer and in the science center kids can try hands-on activities, watch heart and lung dissections or try hot air balloons. The royal Danish naval Museum has one of the world’s finest collections of naval models.
photo Ty Strange
photo Tuala Hjarnø
ti m ! e Words nanna Balslev
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Copenhagen has a lot to offer for children of all ages. Spend a day at famous attractions like Tivoli or experimentarium or take a break in one of the many parks and playgrounds in the city.
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photo Danmarks Akvarium
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Animals and art
that you’ll find a big sand box, playhouses, a tower with a big dipper, swings, long jump, balancing plates and a human size hamster wheel. This is also the only playground in Copenhagen that has an electronic playing area with an interactive tread plate and the possibility of team games. Another nice park is Valbyparken which is the largest public park in Copenhagen and it includes a supervised nature playground with sand and gravel pits, woven willow huts, circular wooden bridges and six themed towers. The Children’s Millennium Garden was designed by a third grade class and consists of a shadow garden and a heart-shaped sunny garden, separated by a lake with a bridge. An all time favourite is Fælledparken in Østerbro with three playgrounds, a brand new skate park and a road system for go carting. It also features the Garden of Senses with sculptures appealing to each of the senses. øRstEDsPARKEN nørre Farimagsgade 2 City
Tivoli Free entran
ce The COPEN with HAGEN summer CAR D season in Tivoli lasts until September 25, but the amusement park opens up for Halloween and the Christmas Season. northern europe’s wildest attractions with roller coasters, amusements, pierrot and lots of restaurants and candy shops in the middle of Copenhagen. tivoli.dk
There are plenty of attractions in the Copenhagen area that’ll amuse your family for a whole day. Copenhagen Zoo in Frederiksberg is worth a visit with more than 3,000 animals from around the world and the new state of the art elephant house designed by the world-famous architect norman Foster. In the Children’s Zoo kids can ride a pony, visit the African pygmy goats or get close to snakes, rabbits and other animals at the Zoo Stage. Take the train or S-train to Klampenborg to the popular deer park Jægersborg Dyrehave. The area is popular for picnics, long walks, jogging, biking, horseback riding or a trip in an old-fashioned horse carriage. not very far away, in Charlottenlund, you’ll find Denmark’s Aquarium, which exhibits more than 300 marine species from all over the world. In specially designed touching pools it’s possible to get close to the marine animals.
Louisiana Museum of Modern Art is an art museum located on the shore of the Sound in Humlebæk, 35 minutes by train from Copenhagen. It will entertain all members of the family with its permanent collection of modern art, special exhibitions and Children’s Wing with workshops and kids-friendly activities. enjoy one of Denmark’s most beautiful panoramic views from the Louisiana café. COPENHAGEN ZOO Free entrance roskildevej 32 COPEN with HAGEN Frederiksberg CAR D Zoo.dk JæGERsBORG DYREHAvE Dyrehaven 1 Klampenborg DANmARKs AKvARIum Free Kavalergården 1 entrance COPEN with Charlottenlund HAGEN CAR D Akvarium.dk LOuIsIANA Gl. Strandvej 13 Humlebæk Louisiana.dk
openInG HourS SUnDAYS-THUrSDAYS 11-22 FrIDAYS 11-00.30 SATUrDAYS 11-24 Summerseason lasts until Sept. 25. outside of that, tivoli is open the following days:
FæLLEDPARKEN Borgmester Jensens Allé 58 Østerbro
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HALLoWeen oCT.14-23 CHrISTMAS noV.11 - DeC.30
photo Zoologisk Have
vALBYPARKEN Hammelstrupvej 100 Valby
COME ABOARD ARKEN MUSEUM OF MODERN ART IN ISHØJ JUST SOUTH OF COPENHAGEN, AND EXPERIENCE INTERNATIONALLY RATED ART AND ARCHITECTURE. EXHIBITIONS OLAFUR ELIASSON Your blind passenger November 27, 2010 – November 27, 2011
ANNONCE
WARHOL & BASQUIAT September 3, 2011 – January 11, 2012
THE ESSENCE OF COLOUR THE ART OF QUEEN MARGRETHE II January 28, 2012 – June 3, 2012
Skovvej 100 | DK-2635 Ishøj | Tel + 45 43 54 02 22 E-mail reception@arken.dk | www. arken.dk Opening hours: Tuesday – Sunday 10-17, Wednesday 10-21, Monday closed
COLD But COsY
winter in Copenhagen When winter comes, Copenhagen turns into a beautiful and often white wonderland with everything from cosy Christmas markets lining the streets to romantic ice skating rinks. Here are the inside tips on what to do and where to buy your presents. Words nanna Balslev
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Holiday on ice Another nice thing to do in the winter is ice skating on one of Copenhagen’s many ice skating rinks. The rinks are open until 10 and the locals love to go skating in the evening or on weekends. It is free if you bring your own skates, or you can rent them on the spot for approximately 40 DKK. enjoy the beautiful setting with lots of string lights and smiling faces in all ages having fun on the ice. Depending on weather conditions the skating rinks should all be open at: Havnegade City Dec. 12 - March 1. Daily 10 - 22 Frederiksberg runddel nov. 27 - March 1 Monday - Friday 11 - 22, Saturday 10 - 22, Sunday and Holidays 12 - 22
photo Morten Jerichau
Blågårds plads nørrebro Dec. 12 - March 1 Monday - Friday 10 - 22, Saturday 11 - 18, Sunday 11 - 17 Lindevangsparken Frederiksberg nov. 27 - March 1 Bring your own skates, no skate hire. open round the clock
wondercool The winter in Copenhagen is shaping up for something special. not only is this city one of northern europe’s cosiest cities during the winter season, it’s also one of the coolest. Why? Well, for starters the city just got its very first winter festival. It goes by the name of WonderCooL and gathers the very best cultural experiences – design, art, architecture, food, fashion, jazz and rock all in one. This means crazy, unseen collaborations between the three such as a rock fashion show, designer food as well as extraordinary prices on three course meals at over 50 delicious Danish restaurants. So lace up your boots and explore Copenhagen’s cultural landscape.
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F
rom the middle of november the centre of Copenhagen is illuminated with thousands of lights and candles. The Christmas season officially kicks off when the mayor lights the city’s official Christmas tree in front of City Hall at the end of november. During the Christmas season the city is transformed into a beautiful fairy tale with shops covered in fir branches and tinsel while all the cafés serve Danish doughnuts (called ‘æbleskiver’) and the traditional mulled wine (called ‘glögg’).
Discover more at Wondercool.com
Skiing in the city In spring of 2016 Copenhagen will get its first ski slope – the so-called Amager Bakke. The man behind the slope is Denmark’s most sought out architect at the moment, Bjarke Ingels from BIG, and the core will be filled with waste from Amager’s waste and energy company. Copenhageners and tourist will be able to ski at three different tracks, bike, run or have a picnic on top of the burned waste. All the while, the new incineration will be more energy efficient with 20 percent more energy per ton of waste. The plant is therefore contributing to Copenhagen’s vision of becoming Co2 neutral by 2025 - to top it all, the smoke from the chimney will make smoke rings.
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JOIN tHE DARK sIDE
Hot chocolate therapy
photo Ty Stange
photo Conditori La Glace
The best cure for ice cold feet and red winter noses is a nice cup of hot cocoa. Here are some of the best places to get an injection of pure dark brown niceness.
Christmas in tivoli A good place to start your visit is Tivoli’s Christmas Market, which is truly a sight to remember. A total of 1,800 fairy lights decorate the willow trees around the Tivoli Lake, as well as the Christmas tree by the great fountain, creating the illusion of luminous snow. The amusement park opens its gates to Christmas in the middle of november and offers traditional Christmas atmosphere with elves, a Christmas market, music and Christmas sweets in abundance. The small villages in Tivoli are filled with Christmas lights and holiday life, showing more than 70 different stall keepers with an abundant selection of Danish Christmas décor, Scandinavian gift ideas and Danish food and drinks which fits perfectly with spending Christmas in Tivoli. All of Tivoli’s amusements are open during the Christmas season and kids can have their picture taken with Santa Claus on the main stage. The season is concluded with the Fireworks Festival, which runs from December 26-30. Christmas in Tivoli Gardens Vesterbrogade 3 Vesterbro nov. 11 - Dec. 30. (Closed on Dec. 24 and 25) Tivoli.dk
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Conditori La Glace The city’s eldest patisserie is definitely worth a stop on your shopping spree at Strøget. La Glace makes an almost nourishing hot cocoa with whole milk, chocolate and whipped cream. on top of that they make the best cakes in the entire city. Skoubogade 3, City Hotel D’Angleterre Like the hotel, the cocoa at D’Angleterre is classic and stylish. A simple white cup filled with hot cocoa, and a little bowl with whipped cream on the side. The cocoa is made of real chocolate, and has a very dark and strong taste. Kongens nytorv 34, City Kalaset Choose between four different kinds of hot cocoa from mint and chilli to a lavish deluxe edition. The deluxeversion is worth the sight alone, with marshmallows, whipped cream and raspberry puree. Vendersgade 16, City Peter Beier Chocolate Here, hot chocolate is not just hot chocolate. You get a choice of different cocoa beans from all over the world. Add other ingredients such as chilli to stir up all the senses. nordre Frihavnsgade 20, Østerbro von Fressen In German, Von Fressen means overfed, but you can get more than just food here, and you’ll get the warmth back in your feet in no time when sipping a cocoadeluxe with marshmallows and raspberry sprinkles. Vesterbrogade 124, Vesterbro
Copenhagen starts right here:
ANNONCE If you take the A-bus, the sights and attractions of Copenhagen are never far away. The A-busses cover the whole city and always appear within a few minutes. Buy your ticket on 1415.dk using your smartphone or computer and choose the kind of ticket you would like – for instance the City Pass ticket which covers the city centre (and to/from the airport) and is valid for a 24 or 72-hour period. Check out 1415.dk for more information.
opening hours All shops are allowed to stay open on the first Sunday of the month, as well as on all Sundays preceding Christmas eve in December. Moreover, shops are allowed to keep open from
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royal Copenhagen Amagertorv 6 City nov. 24 until Dec. 30. royalcopenhagen.dk nyhavn’s Christmas Market nyhavn 40 City nov. 11 - Dec. 22. nyhavn.dk royal danish academy of Fine arts philip de Langes Allé 10, City Check opening hours at Dkds.dk
photo Morten Jerichau
Do your Christmas shopping at Strøget in the department stores Illum, Magasin du nord and Illums Bolighus. They all have their own Christmas department with imaginative and beautiful decorations. Don’t forget to visit the china maker royal Copenhagen’s Christmas tables at Amagertorv – a tradition that started in 1963. every year royal Copenhagen sets an elaborate Christmas themed table and the factory sells their second rate china 20-50 percent below the normal price. Another good place to get in the Christmas spirit is at the nyhavn Christmas Market. Along the water in the old harbour stalls are put up and decorated with boughs of fir and chains of lights. Here you can buy homemade food, souvenirs and artwork while listening to local jazz bands. The cafés and bars at nyhavn all serve Tuborg’s and Carlsberg’s Christmas Brew, glögg and most of them Danish doughnuts with jelly and icing sugar. If you are into cutting edge design you should pay a visit to the market at the Danish Design School and the royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts at Holmen. The market features a wide selection of jewellery, china and artwork made by art students. each school have
their own Christmas bazaars, and they are usually open in the last weekend of november and the first weekend of December. You will find an alternative, but cosy Christmas bazaar in The Grey Hall in the hippie district of Christiania. At Christiania’s Christmas Market they sell unusual and unique handmade products like candles, sweaters and hand crafted jewellery. Check out the women blacksmiths near by for metal decorations for your Christmas tree.
Christiania’s Christmas Market The Grey Hall refshalevej 2 City Dec. 8 - 17. Christiania.org
10-20 on the last Saturday before Christmas. December 25 and 26, and January 1 are public holidays, but also on December 24 and 31, most shops are closed. More info on visitcopenhagen.com
photo Ty Strange
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Christmas shopping
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Den Frie
Contemporary art chosen by artists.
Den Frie Centre of Contemporary Art is the Artists’ House and aims to show exhibitions that are produced, initiated and chosen by artists. Den Frie Centre of Contemporary Art operates as an experimental frame for art exhibitions and related activities. Den Frie Centre of Contemporary Art’s overall task is to act as a
platform for artistic divergence and is therefore situated in the tension field between tradition and innovation. opening hours Tuesday-Sunday: 12-17 Thursday: 12-21 Den frie oslo plads 1 Østerbro Denfrie.dk
Louisiana
don’t miss a visit to “the most beautiful museum in the world”.
Visitors from around the world hail the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art as ”the most beautiful museum in the world”. Located just 35 km north of Copenhagen you’ll find a unique combina-
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tion of world-class art, nature and architecture, as well as a dynamic framework for grand exhibitions, concerts, activities for children etc. The Louisiana Cafe has a stunning view of the Sound, and the museum shop is one of Denmark’s leading design shops. Tuesday-Friday 11-22 Saturday, Sunday and public holidays 11-18. Closed on Mondays. Louisiana museum of modern Art Gl. Strandvej 13 Humlebæk Louisiana.dk
Experimentarium Copenhagen’s Science Centre.
than 300 activities and every year they have at least two temporary exhibitions. This autumn they’ll be invaded by CreepyCrawly critters! They have daily dissections and shows - The Soap Bubble Show is an all time favourite! experimentarium is located 5 km from the centre of the city. open daily from 9.30-17. Weekends 11-17 Discover the world around you and take a tour of the senses and the body. You can interact with everything and experience powerful body-on and mind-on activities. More
Experimentarium Tuborg Havnevej 7 Hellerup experimentarium.dk
Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek explore outstanding art and architecture in the heart of Copenhagen – right across from Tivoli.
When visiting one of Denmark’s most beautiful museums you can enjoy northern europe’s largest collection of Ancient Mediterranean art and visit the leading collection of French Impressionist paintings in Denmark. Visitors can relax in the indoor subtropical garden and enjoy the homemade specialities in the café.
The museum was founded by world famous brewer Carl Jacobsen who made Carlsberg beer known worldwide. Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek Dantes plads 7 City phone: 45 33 41 81 41 Glyptoteket.com
Take a daytrip to Funen and visit the birthplace of the fairytale writer. The museum is located in the old precinct of odense, just a five min. walk from the train station. The place is a museum for the writer’s work featuring exhibits about his fantastic life. Follow his life from the difficult years as a son of a poor shoemaker to becoming the most recognised author of the century. Hans Christian Andersen museum ny Bangs Boder 29 odense C open Tues. – Sun. 10 - 16
National Gallery of Denmark 700 years of art – for free.
Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, La Clownesse Assise, Mademoiselle Cha-U-Kao, 1896
The national Gallery of Denmark is the nation’s main museum for the visual arts. no other museum in Denmark offers as rich and nuanced presentation of contemporary art and art
from the past. Here, you can immerse yourself in drawings, graphic arts and photography. Let yourself be enraptured by sculpture and magnificent paintings and explore video works and installation art. From September 17 2011 to February 19 2012 you can explore the major autumn exhibition “Toulouse-Lautrec. The Human Comedy”. Admission fee.
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Hans Christian Andersen museum
National Gallery of Denmark Sølvgade 48-50 City phone: 45 3374 8494 Smk.dk
Karen Blixen museet National museum Visit the home of Karen blixen in beautiful surroundings. At Strandvejen in rungsted, with a view of the Sound on one side, and a big, beautiful park on the other is the old mansion rungstedlund, home of the Karen Blixen Museum. The world famousauthor lived here for most of her life, and it’s here she wrote her famous and beloved stories: out of Africa, Babette’s Feast, Sorgagre etc. Visit Blixen’s private Karen Blixen museet rungsted Strandvej 111 rungsted Kyst Blixen.dk
Who are the danes? explore the new prehistoric exhibition.
the ‘free town’ of Christiania? And where can you see one of the world’s biggest collections of exhibits from cultures all over the planet?
rooms and enjoy a light lunch followed by a walk in the garden.
Visit the national Museum of Denmark, which is housed in the beautiful 18th century rococo prince’s palace right next to the parliament. Free admission.
Where can you explore the history of the Danes from the first hunters of the Ice Age over the Viking campaigns to the last cannabis stall from
the National museum of Denmark ny Vestergade 10 City natmus.dk
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thorvaldsens museum the viking ship museum The museum is a fascinating combination of architecture and sculptures.
Copenhagen’s Science Centre.
and he became one of the most famous artists of his time. In 1838 he bequeathed his works and collections to Copenhagen – the city of his birth. The museum opened in 1848 and it was the very first public museum in the country. The architecture of the museum and the sculptures made by Thorvaldsen match harmonically together and the vividly coloured and richly decorated rooms are a unique experience.
The Danish sculptor Bertel Thorvaldsen (1770 – 1844) lived for more than 40 years in rome
thorvaldsens museum Bertel Thorvaldsens plads 2 City phone: 45 33321532 Thorvaldsensmuseum.dk
Our saviour’s Church where you have a spectacular view of Copenhagen that’ll take your breath away. In order to get the most out of this view, you’ll have to go by the external winding staircase, but we promise that it’s worth every step. The church is open daily from 11 - 15.30. The spire is open Mon-Sat from 10 - 19, and Sundays from 10.30 - 19. one of the most beautiful churches in Copenhagen is our Saviour’s Church (Vor Frelsers Kirke) in the middle of Christianshavn. The church, which dates back to the late 1600’s is known for its corkscrew spire from
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Our saviour’s Church Sankt Annægade 29 Christianshavn Vorfrelskerkirke.dk
of roskilde Fjord. The Viking Ship Museum in roskilde is an outstanding experience for the whole family displaying the impressive Viking ships and offering sailings (1.5 - 30.9.) as well as exciting exhibitions, historic harbour environment and hands-on activities.
experience first hand the Danish Viking ships and enjoy the beautiful landscape
the viking ship museum Vindeboder 12 roskilde Vikingshipmuseum.dk
the øresund Aquarium
Meet the fish and the animals that live in Øresund and the neighbouring waters – from greater weever to catfish. Visit our touch pool for a unique encounter with crabs and flatfish or try shaking hands with a starfish. Marine activities Feeding of the fish take place every hour during the day. Also, during the summer holidays we arrange marine
activities for both children and adult with a love for the sea. Jump aboard our whaling boat tours that take place in the evening. An attendant or a student of marine biology is always present and ready to answer any questions you might have about life in the sea. June-Aug.: All days 10-17 Sept. – May: Mon. – Fri. 10-16 Sept. – May: Weekends 10-17
the øresund Aquarium Strandpromenaden 5 Helsingør oresundsakvariet.ku.dk
Culture Night In october you’ll
a unique 14th have opportunity to OCtOBER
experience almost everything Copenhagen has to offer when it comes to art and entertainment at the Culture night. everything stays open till midnight and beyond, and most places have arranged unique events. There will be more than 500 events, some of them only available this night. For access to events on Culture a night of Culture october 14th Kulturnatten.dk
CPH DOx The fact that Denmark has a very strong NOvEmBER tradition when it comes to filmmaking is evident when you look at successful directors such as Lars Von Trier and nicolas Winding refn. But our love of documentaries is equally as big, and therefore you must experience the CpH DoX film festival where the world’s finest documentarists showcase their work.
3th
CPH DOx november 3th - 13th Cphcox.dk
night, buy a Culture Kit, which costs DKK 90.
Halloween in tivoli Tivoli is usually a
of laughter 14rd place and smiles, but
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FOuR EvENts YOu sHOuLDN’t mIss
OCtOBER
in october be prepared to be scared. Halloween has become a much-loved tradition in Denmark, and there’s no better place to celebrate this than in Tivoli. The garden will be decorated with pumpkin heads, spider webs and other things that will send shivers down your spine.
tivoli october 14th - 23th Tivoli.dk
Christmas market in Nyhavn nyhavn is one of
most pictur11th the esque places in NOvEmBER
Copenhagen, so imagine how beautiful the old canal looks when it’s lined with shops and stalls selling everything from Christmas ornaments to the traditional glögg-drink. Go here for a pure Danish Christmas feeling, one you won’t find anywhere else in the world.
Christmas market in nyhavn november 11th – 22th Spisinyhavn.dk
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Š Copyright 2011 by Underberg AG, Dietlikon/Zurich
EFTER GOD MAD
Underberg is celebrating 150 years in Denmark. The soothing effect and the herbal taste have been convincing the Danish consumers already for a long time – more than 150 years.
www.underberg.com
gaven til maven
150 år i Danmark og stadig den samme!
Bliv samler med Underberg – Saml kapsler og bliv præmieret med unikke Underberg gaver
150 YEARS IN DENMARK
shopping
F
ew places offer as much diversity and as many opportunities when it comes to shopping as Copenhagen. Here, you’ll find everything you’re looking for, and most likely also what you didn’t know you were looking for.
From world famous brands to lesser-known yet highly exclusive Danish designs, you’ll be dragging your shopping bags up and down Strøget in no time. You’ll find all the luxury and high street fashion shops along Copenhagen’s ”spine”, known as Strøget, and the adjacent Købmagergade. In the middle of everything, you’ll find Illum, a luxury department store, designed especially to cater to all your shopping needs. However, should you dare to venture down some of the smaller side-streets, you’ll be greeted by a wide range of smaller independent shops, offering the best in Danish and international fashion. Look for brands such as nn.07, By Malene Birger, Bruuns Bazaar, and you surely won’t leave Copenhagen disappointed. In this section, we guide you to the finest shops in Copenhagen; all of them offering the perfect gifts for those you love.
sHOPPING
sPENDING sPREE at strøget Copenhagen has truly become the shopping capital of Scandinavia, thanks in part to all the unique stores offering the best in danish design, fashion and luxurious food. Here are some of the finest.
Prep your step
Storm
When treating yourself to a self indulging stay in Copenhagen, your feet need spoiling, too. bien Caché offers just that. There’s no such thing as “one pair of shoes that fit any occasion or dress”. That’s why every man needs a good selection of footwear to match every part of his wardrobe, and a great place to start is at Bien Caché. Here, you’ll find everything from fine leather lace-ups to unique sneaker-brands bien Caché Gammel Mønt 35 City Bien-cache.com
From racks to riches
Framed
Storm is one of the most trendsetting and influential fashion concept stores in Scandinavia. The shop offers an exclusive range of fashion, fragrances and jewellery for both men and women, from designer brands such as ralph Lauren, Thom Browne, Comme des Garcons and the best Scandinavian designers. Storm might not be the place you go to for a whole lot of fashion choices – it’s where you go for the right choices.
Copenhagen’s finest selection of eyewear can be found at poul Stig. Whether you’re looking for something classic or something bold, poul Stig carries almost every big brand you can possibly think of.
Make the right choices at Storm.
Storm Store regnegade 1 City Stormfashion.dk Words Søren McGuire photos Tuala Hjarnø, Benita Marcussen and others
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Signature glasses that make you stand out are back in fashion.
poul Stig Østergade 24 City poulstig.dk
poul Stig
bien Caché
Time’s up Vintage
vintage wonderland
With designer clothes from YSL, Versace and Chanel, Time’s up Vintage in Krystalgade is a must-see for fashionistas and shopaholics. Walking into Time’s Up Vintage is like walking into Bianca Jagger’s wardrobe. The highly exclusive second hand shop should be your first stop for delicate dresses, silk blouses and stylish accessories from designer brands such as prada, YSL, Versace and Gucci – spanning the last five decades. The handpicked selection of designer duds, vintage treasures and one of Copenhagen’s largest shoe collection makes Time’s Up Vintage a popular place for local fashionistas and stylists. Time’s up Vintage Krystalgade 4 City Timesupshop.com
Time’s up Vintage
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sHOPPING
For the heart and the home There’s an abundance of design and interior decorating shops in Copenhagen. The best, however, is also the biggest.
right in the middle of Strøget, you’ll find Illums Bolighus in one of the city’s oldest buildings. Here, you’ll find three floors filled with everything your heart and home could possibly desire. In other words, Illums Bolighus is design-heaven; so prepare to be swept away by all the items you can’t possibly live without! Illums bolighus Amagertorv 10 City Illumsbolighus.dk
Illums bolighus
tea time
enjoy your five o’clock tea and homemade pastries at Tante T in Viktoriagade – Copenhagen’s most intimate tea room. If you need to relax after a long day in Copenhagen, Tante T is the perfect place to do so. The small but cosy tearoom offers a wide selection of tea from all over the world and homemade pastries and cookies. Tante T began importing tea in 2003 and opened the first tearoom in 2006, which quickly became a popular place among locals. Today they offer more than 160 different brands of tea that you can bring home with you. Tante T Viktoriagade 6 Vesterbro Tante-t.dk
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HAY
If you hate the thought of showing up to a party and one of the other guests is wearing the exact same dress as you, swing by DAnSK. not only does it carry a fine selection of Danish designs, the owners also frequently travel to Hong Kong to hand pick unique pieces. If you can’t get enough of DAnSK, walk 50 meters down the street and visit DAnSK Manufaktum at Istedgade 80, which carries furniture and interior decoration in the same modern Scandinavian style.
Danish design is known for being clean and simple, and HAY is yet another example of that. At the HAY flagship store you’ll find all the furniture and other interior designs from the award winning Danish brand. HAY’s ambition is to encourage Danish furniture design’s return to the innovative greatness of the 50’s and 60’s, but in a contemporary context, and they have definitely succeeded.
danSK offers a perfect mixture of danish design and unique handpicked Chinese pieces.
danSK Istedgade 64 Vesterbro Danskofdenmark.dk
Classic, colourful and affordable. Visit the interior design shop HaY and buy a special gift for your home.
sHOPPING
Danish with an Asian twist
HaY Østergade 61 City Hayshop.dk
HaY
mouthwatering
When it comes to chocolate, you can never have too many favourites. Why not make your next one danish. It didn’t take long for Summerbird to become the most popular brand of exclusive homemade chocolate in Copenhagen. You can buy Summerbird chocolate in many different shops, but for the full, mouthwatering experience go to the Summerbird Chocolaterie. This is where you’ll find a wide range of unforgettable treats such as the amazing cream puffs, the wonderful chocolate-covered marzipan bar or the unique chocolate sushi.
danSK
Summerbird Chocolaterie Kronprinsensgade 11 City Summerbird.dk
Summerbird
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sHOPPING
Hans Christian Andersen’s favorite hat shop
The only dedicated men’s hats shop in Scandinavia. The story behind petitgas is as interesting and unique as the hats they sell. For more than 150 years time has been standing still in this enchanting shop. originally opened by the French immigrant François petitgas, and since then, one of – if not the – leading hat shop in northern europe. If you can’t find the hat you are looking for here, chances are you will never find it. people like Hans Christian Andersen and several Danish kings were regular customers over the years. Today, people come from all over the world to find just the right Mayser, Wegener, Stetson or Borsalino. And the shop that welcomes them has not changed since 1890. petitgas Købmagergade 5 City
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A palace of shopping pleasure
Illum offers five floors of exclusive opportunities right in the centre of Copenhagen. Illum is by far the most exclusive department store in Denmark, and because it’s located right in the middle of Strøget, like a beacon of light for local and international shoppers, no stay here would be complete without a visit. It offers five floors of shopping perfection, from internationally known luxury brands to the absolute finest in contemporary and classic Danish design, and if you’re here during December, be sure to experience the beautiful and often very bold Christmas decorations on the outside of the building. Illum Østergade 52 City Illum.dk
ANNONCE
sHOPPING
Classical toys for kids of all ages
at the LeGo Store, your kids as well as your inner child can go nuts over the selection of the famous toy bricks. Since you’ve come to the home of LeGo why not visit the new LeGo Store in Copenhagen? over the years, LeGo has built flagship stores all over the world, but this is actually the first of its kind in Denmark. The LeGo Store is a paradise for children of all ages, especially at the pick-A-Brick wall on the ground floor, a wonderful ”LeGo-buffet” for all of us who know how frustrating it can be when you’re missing that one little but extremely important LeGo brick to finish your masterpiece. LeGo Store Vimmelskaftet 47 City Stores.lego.com
What your wardrobe wants
The Companys flagship store is a must for those looking for a bit of danish luxury Denmark has a strong tradition when it comes to high street fashion, and Companys would be the obvious choice for exclusive yet affordable clothing for both men and women. Brands and designers on display at the two-floor building include Tiger of Sweden, Designer’s remix Collection, Soaked In Luxury, Fred perry and Marc by Marc Jacobs. Companys Frederiksberggade 24 City Companys.com
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Cheap monday Swedish jeans.
The crocodile Live.
The Swedish jeans brand Cheap Monday opened their first flagship store in Copenhagen in 2010, and was soon after voted Best new Store in a poll by the national newspaper, Berlingske Tidende. It is located in the heart of Copenhagen and has an area of 400 sqm. In The Lacoste store in ny Østergade is the worldfamous brand’s largest flagship store in Denmark. now, the store also presents the young line of designs, LACoSTe LIVe, available for men from this fall and for women from spring 2012.
Lacoste ny Østergade 3 City Lacoste.com Lacostelive.com
Bodil Binner Jewellery in bredgade.
For her stylish statements and eternal classics, goldsmith Bodil Binner always work with the most precious of materials: Glittering gold, prized platinum, dazzling diamonds and gorgeous pearls. nordic minimalism is a certain characteristic of Bodil Binner’s aesthetic philosophy that also encompasses a sensual dimension that is worn by women – and Bodil Binner Bodil Binner Bredgade 18 City Bodilbinner.dk
sHOPPING
Lacoste
addition to complete Cheap Monday collections, the store sells limited editions of specially designed garments. The interior is designed by the Swedish architect and design firm Uglycute, and is characterized by their style of using raw and simple materials.
Cheap monday Kronprinsensgade 7 City Cheapmonday.com
Apair
High-end shoe fashion.
then men who adore women. Contemporary jewellery from an art perspective.
The philosophy of Apair is based on beauty, simplicity and balance in both products and store design. Apair was founded in Copenhagen in 1995 and has since thrived in Denmark as well as internationally. Apair is owned by Claus Hjort and Lise Freiesleben Hjort. Apair strives to be in the highest
end of the fashion industry and achieves this by selling elite products, made by top european designers, to its many customers. It has maintained the goal of being the premier shoe retailer in europe since its inception. At Apair you will find high-end brands like Alexander Hotto Gianni Barbartto, Cecare paciotti, Le Silla, Buttero, and paul Smith. Apair ny Østergade 3 City phone 45 3391 9920 Apair.dk
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