WHERE Hong Kong - July 2013 by WHERE Hong Kong

J U ly 2 013

the complete guide to go

速

Hong Kong

Saucy Dishes Have a steak, the Hong Kong way

Gin Bars Tai O, in photos Hot new nail Spa in Sheung Wan

where Hong Kong 7.13 ®

the guide

06 Hot Dates Hong Kong’s hottest concerts, shows and events

20 art + culture Top galleries and our pick of what’s happening

30 dining Your A-Z of the best eats in town

38 nightlife Our favorite places to sip a cocktail

52 Walking Tour Explore a neighborhood on foot

54 Maps Kowloon & Hong Kong Island

Also inside 40 Shops + services From mega malls to local designers 46 NAVIGATE Fast facts and essential info

features

58 30 THINGS WE LOVE Hong Kong’s all-time top spots and best experiences

12 Fusion Fare For a Hong-Kong-style interpretation of western cuisine, head right to a “soy sauce western” diner

20 Tai o in pictures Learn about a sleepy Hong Kong fishing village from this cool photo exhibition

36 Gin Fever Gin is the drink of choice at Hong Kong's trendiest bars. Tonic not guaranteed

on the cover A steak is drenched in black pepper sauce at Sammy's Kitchen, an oldschool “soy sauce western” diner. See more offerings on p.12.

wheretraveler.com The new website from the editors of Where Magazine. Get all the latest city buzz from our experts—info only the locals know.

July 2013 I WH ERE hon g k o ng 3

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maga z ine

On the web: www.where-hongkong.com asia city Media group acMG | ADVERTISING & CIRCULATION COUNTRY MANAGER Greg Crandall ADVERTISING director Jan Cheng Advertising manager Heisen Cheng Advertising Executives Ivor Ngo, Maggie Chong Advertising Coordinator Sharon Cheung Marketing MANAGER James Gannaban Marketing & Circulation Executive Charmaine Mirandilla REGIONAL IT SYSTEMS Manager Derek Wong

acMg | EDITORIAL EDITOR-in-chief Zach Hines EDITOR Adele Wong CONTRIBUTORS Leonie Xin Chao-Fong, Sean Hebert, Kate Springer, Lisa Huang

acMg | PRODUCTION PRODUCTION MANAGER Blackie Hui ART DIRECTOR Pierre Pang Senior graphic designer Mike Hung graphic designer Iris Mak

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS mvp | executive PRESIDENT Donna W. Kessler Vice president of operations Angela E. Allen general manager, where maps Christopher Huber

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MORRIS COMUNICATIONS Chairman & ceo William S. Morris III PRESident William S. Morris IV

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where

HONG KONG

Room 301, 3/F, Hollywood Centre, 233 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, Hong Kong Phone: 2850-5065 Fax: 2543-1880 Published by where Hong Kong Publishing Ltd., an Asia City Media Group Company. Printed by Paramount Printing Company Limited, 3 Chun Kwong St., Tseung Kwan O Industrial Estate, New Territories. where makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited. where is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications-Where Magazine. ®

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Savour the Intoxication & Magic of the Night with the best drinks in town......

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hot dates Hong Kong

July 13 Ready, Set, Row Time to bring out your kayaks and running shoes for the fifth annual Teva Kayak n Run series, held at various locations across the city. The July event will start with teams of two competing in a kayak race in Tai Tam Bay, followed by a 5-kilometer trail run. Teams will have to find orienteering checkpoints along the way. This is one of Hong Kong's most popular adventure races. 9am. Tai Tam Bay. $458 for two, from www.actionasiaevents.com.

6 W H ERE H ONG KON G I July 2013

hot dates July 20-28

Smooth Operator

July 31 Chill Out

Critically lauded band The xx has been dominating the indie scene since its 2009 debut album. The ambient pop group will be performing its mellow, moody tunes at KITEC this summer. 8pm. Star Hall, KITEC, 1 Trademart Drive, Kowloon

Held every summer, the Chinese Opera Festival features top artists from all over China, including top “wusheng” (military male lead) actor Wang Ping and national top-rank drama group Jiangsu Kunqu Opera. They will perform a diverse mix of opera genres from ancient opera to military productions, Peking operas, and local Cantonese works. For eager learners, there is a compelling assortment of talks, sessions and Chinese opera film screenings. Don’t miss the featured academic talk on the vocal styles across Chinese traditional theater, presented by scholars and artists on July 1 at the Yau Ma Tei Theater.

Bay. $780 from www.hkticketing.com.

Various showtimes and venues. Read more and book tickets from www.cof.gov.hk.

July 26-27

July 13

July 21,27

Wooed by Moo

Hit the Deck

All That Jazz

Award-winning Malaysian-Chinese singer and songwriter Eric Moo will be sharing his signature songs as well as timeless tunes of yesteryear in “Our Favourite Melodies with Eric Moo” at the Convention and Exhibition Centre.

The notorious W Hotel pool parties are back. Hosted at its rooftop infinity pool, partygoers can expect models and champagne bottles galore. And as always, W promises some sizzling hotness with DJ beats, edgy fashion and exotic mixology. Then hop over to Woobar for some after-party schmoozing. 8pm. W

Upcoming jazz guitarist and composer Teriver Cheung is set to kick off a series of shows, with performances at Fullcup Café and Dada Lounge. Cheung has performed with worldrenowned musicians like American keyboardist Bernard Wright and jazz drummer Billy Drummond, and has also appeared in music festivals and venues around the world.

8:15pm. HK Convention and Exhibition Center, 1 Expo Drive, Wan Chai. $180-580 from www. hkticketing.com.

Hotel, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 37172222. $300 for a single-shot ticket, including a drink voucher, access poolside and after-party. $850 for a“WIP” ticket, including free-flow Veuve Clicquot champagne, wine, cocktails, beer and soft drinks poolside, plus a drink voucher at after-party.

Jul 21 3pm. Fullcup Café, 3/F, Hanway Commercial Building, 36 Dundas St., Mong Kok. $80 from www.facebook.com/fullcupmusic, $100 at the door. Jul 27 10pm. Dada Bar & Lounge, Luxe Manor Hotel, 39 Kimberley Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui. Free entry. July 2013 I WH ERE HON G KONG 7

Y Y

hot dates Hong Kong July 26-30

July 13-14

July 20

Wet ‘n’ Wild The infamous Splash parties at the Hard Rock Macau have a winning formula: swimsuits, sunshine and plenty of alcohol. 4pm. Hard Rock

Dress the Part

Bottoms Up

The 15th Ani-Com & Games Hong Kong returns to Hong Kong with its blend of anime, figurines, games, comics and collectibles. There’s plenty here for the geekily inclined. This year there will be a figurine and comic design competition, Hong Kong’s biggest Cosplay contest, and—as always—loads of mini stalls full of geeky goods. 10am-9pm. Hong Kong

Celebrate the beer god at this outdoor festival! Marking its 10th anniversary, the LKF Beerfest extends for the first time to Wo On Lane. The party begins at 1pm with beer from more than 100 breweries. New additions include a craft beer street and organic beers. There will also be live music performances at the Wo On Lane Amphitheater, interactive games and drinking competitions to keep the party going.

Convention and Exhibition Centre, 1 Expo Drive, Wan Chai, 2582-8888. $30 from 7-Elevens and Circle Ks. Also available at the door.

July 24, 27

Hotel Macau, City of Dreams, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau, (+853) 8868-3338. $450 from www.cityofdreamsmacau.com.

July 5-7

1pm till late. Lan Kwai Fong. Free.

July 21

In Full Swing The Diavolo Dance Theater, a group of acrobat/gymnast/dancers, will be performing breathtaking stunts on, in, around and under enormous structures in their impressive stage show “Architecture in Motion.” Bring the kids along to this highly entertaining venture. Jul 5-7, 7:30pm; Jul 6-7, 3pm. Grand Theatre, Cultural Centre, 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui. $140-380 from www.urbtix.hk.

July 27-28

Kick Start

Rolling in the Deep

Football fans need to act fast and grab their tix for The Barclays Asia Trophy Hong Kong 2013, presented by the Premier League and the Hong Kong Football Association. The Tottenham Hotspurs, Sunderland, Manchester City and Hong Kong’s own South China Football Club will be battling for the prestigious trophy in a two-day playoff. 6pm and 8:30pm kick-offs.

MCL Telford cinema will be showing the kaleidoscopic new film “The Rolling Stones Crossfire Hurricane,” which provides a remarkable new perspective on the iconic group’s unparalleled journey from bluesobsessed teens in the early 60s to their rock royalty status today. Directed by Brett Morgen, the film combines previously unseen footage, period interviews, extensive live performance material as well as contemporary commentaries by the Stones themselves. The screening forms part of the MCL’s Rock Legends series that also features Queen and The Doors. 4pm. MCL

$300-600 from www.cityline.om.

Telford Cinema, Telford Gardens, 33 Wai Yip St., Kowloon Bay. $80 (Adult), $65 (Student/Senior/ Child) from www2.mclcinema.com. 8 W H ERE H ONG KON G I July 2013

Dream Come True “Final Fantasy” composer Nobuo Uematsu will be joined on-stage by the City Chamber Orchestra of Hong Kong and the Die Konzertisten Choir to bring over two hours of music from the series’ massive catologue to life. 7:30pm. AsiaWorld-Expo, Chek Lap Kok. $680-1,680 from www.hkticketing.com.

HK$20 off on Madame Tussauds Hong Kong regular-priced adult admission ticket + HK$400 Cash coupon

Hot events. Cool place.

All the excitement of the Hong Kong Summer Spectacular is back!

From now until the end of August, benefit from fabulous cut-price tickets and some excellent coupon offers for awesome gifts offered by the city’s theme parks and attractions. For details of individual offers, please refer to the 2013 Hong Kong Summer Spectacular Event Guide or visit DiscoverHongKong.com/ HKSS. Don’t miss all the action in Asia’s world city from 21 June to 31 August 2013.

Get $20 off on regular-priced adult admission ticket at Madame Tussauds Hong Kong! Don’t forget to grab the summer cash coupon when you visit the attraction and exclusively enjoy a range of attractive deals on The Peak with discounts valued at over HK$400! madametussauds.com/hongkong The image shown in this magazine depicts wax figure created and owned by Madame Tussauds.

Limited edition lucky bag at Hong Kong Wetland Park

This information is correct as of June 2013, but is subject to change without prior notice. Hong Kong Tourism Board (HKTB) disclaims any liability for the quality or fitness for purpose of third-party products or services; or for any errors or omissions. The HKTB is not a supplier of the offers and shall not be responsible for any liabilities in relation thereto. In case of disputes, the decision of the third parties providing the above offers shall be final. *Terms and Conditions apply.

This summer, indulge your senses at Hong Kong Wetland Park, where a variety of lotuses and water lilies are at their luxuriant best in the park’s soothing freshwater marshes. Don’t forget to get a limited edition lucky bag at the Hong Kong Wetland Park’s Information Counter while you’re there. wetlandpark.gov.hk

SPONSORED FEATURE

15 percent off on Noah’s Ark admission tickets

10 percent off on Ocean Park admission tickets

Creative games make for a fantastic summer at Noah’s Ark. Just present your passport and enjoy a 15 percent discount on a maximum of four admission tickets. noahsark.com.hk

Energise and cool off from the summer heat this year with wet and wild thrills at Ocean Park’s Summer Splash from June 29 to Aug 25! Have a blast with Hong Kong’s first indoor glow-in-the-dark multimedia zone, which features techno music, UV lighting, bubbles and a water maze. Get a 10 percent discount coupon on Ocean Park daytime admission tickets from Hong Kong Summer Spectacular Event Guide. oceanpark.com.hk

Special gift at the sky100 Hong Kong Observation Deck

10 percent off at Ngong Ping 360 souvenir shop

You’re in for a unique 3D viewing experience at sky100 Hong Kong Observation Deck at the top of the ICC tower. It places you in an optical illusion where you can catch all-round amazing views of the city. Claim a special gift from sky100 between July 1 and August 31 by presenting Summer Spectacular coupon. sky100.com.hk

Discover the true essence of Kung Fu when masters of the Shaolin and Jeet Kune Do styles demonstrate their unique skills live on stage at Ngong Ping 360. Visit and enjoy a 10 percent discount on Ngong Ping 360’s souvenir shop-branded merchandise (excluding discounted items). np360.com.hk

Put Some Sauce On It Have your steak with some black pepper sauce at a Hong Kong-style western diner. By Siu Sun and Michelle Ho

ant to try something quintessentially Hong Kong? Then head down to an oldschool “soy sauce western” diner for some creative, fusiony dishes. Essentially a very localized interpretation of western dishes—one where steak is served with Chinese-stye black pepper sauce—soy sauce western is a tribute to Hong Kong’s complicated colonial past, and remains a relatively niche dining category in the city. Check out these five longstanding east-meets-west establishments while you’re in town.

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Sammy’s Kitchen

Sammy from Sammy’s Kitchen

Sammy’s Kitchen When you ask Sai Ying Pun locals about Sammy’s Kitchen, most would say, “Just look for that cow sign!” They’re referring to the gigantic neon cow that hangs gloriously outside the restaurant on a busy section of Queen’s Road West. The sign’s been there since 1969 and is currently the subject of interest for the government, since the Buildings Department considers it an illegal structure, albeit one with lots of collective nostalgia attached to it. The sign is due to come off in August—so remember to take your snaps before the fateful day. Stepping into the restaurant, you’ll notice the décor has remained virtually unchanged over the past four decades. Checkered tablecloths were a sign of fine dining back in the day, and Sammy’s proudly retains this tradition.

“Hi! I’m Sammy, the chef-owner of Sammy’s Kitchen,” the octogenarian proprietor greets us warmly. As he talks us through the history of his restaurant, we are amazed by his energy and passion. “I started cooking at the Peninsula and Mandarin Oriental hotels when I was 15. No one would put a Chinese name on the name tags back in the day, so my manager gave me the name Sammy. I have been working in the catering industry my whole life and when I was in my 40s, I used my food knowledge to open a restaurant.” Not only does Sammy’s serve good food at affordable prices, but it also caters to the palates of Hongkongers. “Everyone, especially the carnivores, adores our signature dish: Sammy’s Steak.” Sammy pours his famous Sammy’s gravy, made with chopped bacon, pepper, onion and garlic, on top of the steak to keep it juicy.

Goldfinch

Goldfinch Restaurant

“Instead of doing a fried fish, I wrap the fish with paper to conserve its juices,” Sammy continues. “We combine western and Chinese ingredients like red wine and light soy sauce, because Hong Kong people like salty food.” VIPs and high-ranking government officials used to frequent his establishment. “They used to order our food for meetings or parties, when we cost so much cheaper,” says Iry Yip, Sammy’s daughter, and the restaurant’s heiress. To continue her father’s legacy and his passion for food, Yip gives cooking lessons at the Chinese Cuisine Training Institute. “Kids nowadays know little about food. They only visit the place for its history and then post it on social media. Sometimes they don’t even know how to cut a steak. I feel like I have the obligation to teach them,” she explains. 204-206 Queen’s Rd. West, Sai Ying Pun, 2548-8400.

The entrance of the Goldfinch Restaurant is marked by a wooden door. Stepping into the dimly lit, green-wallpapered space, you’ll immediately feel like you were brought back to the 60s. On the right, a giant wooden goldfinch carving hangs on the wall—it was the inspiration behind the restaurant’s name. “This is our restaurant’s first art piece, and it has been with us for 50 years,” says Szeto Wing-hing, the manager of Goldfinch Restaurant, who himself has been with the restaurant since 1971. Established in 1962, Goldfinch Restaurant first made its name with its two signature dishes: the sautéed beef filet with black pepper, and the fried grouper with egg sauce. “As a restaurant mainly serving western food, we used to have fried grouper only, but then we wanted to cater to the locals’ tastes. So our chef created a special salad dressing of lemon and vegetable oil to dip the fish in, which makes the dish more east-meets-west,” Szeto explains. It was when Wong Kar-wai came in with his film crew in 2000 to shoot

“In the Mood for Love” that Goldfinch really catapulted into the limelight. “The decoration you see now is all credited to William Chang Suk-ping, the art director for ‘In the Mood for Love’ and ‘2046.’ Our original deco was 60s-like, but William made it more poignant and cinematic. The mirrors on the walls and the glass lights were used in the movie and they let us keep it,” Szeto says. Thanks to the fame, Goldfinch Restaurant stands still in the hustle and bustle of Causeway Bay and continues to attract travelers and movie fans. “We have set menus called ‘In the Mood for Love’ and ‘2046’,” Szeto says. “We used to have lots of restaurants in the neighborhood, but now the area is dominated by jewelry stores and high-end fashion labels. Luckily, the landlord didn’t try to take advantage of us,” Szeto continues. The other reason for keeping Goldfinch running, he explains, is for the aging owner to hang out with his longtime friends. We’re definitely glad it’s still around. G/F, 13-15 Lan Fong Rd., Causeway Bay, 2577-7981. JUly 2013 I WHERE HONG KONG 13

Tai Ping Koon

Andrew Chui from Tai Ping Koon

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A five-generation family-owned restaurant, Tai Ping Koon has been serving soy sauce western for more than seven decades. Over the years, the establishment gradually shifted from being a fancy restaurant for the rich, to an affordable yet sophisticated restaurant for everyone. Tai Ping Koon had set out to change western dishes to suit Hongkongers’ tastebuds from the very beginning. For example, the TPK baked soufflé takes the original recipe for the French soufflé, which is creamy and sweet, and changes it to a recipe that only uses eggs, which gives the soufflé a lighter texture and flavor. Tai Ping Koon’s renowned “Swiss sauce” also perfectly illustrates the idea of soy sauce western. Urban legend has it that once upon a time, a western customer eating a soy-based dish at a similar eastmeets-west resto heard “Swiss” instead of “sweet” when he asked for the name of the sauce—and that name had stuck. TPK’s Swiss sauce is freshly made every day, using western ingredients like celery and bay leaves mixed with Shaoxing wine, chicken bones and soy sauce. “We won’t be a copycat,” says Andrew Chui, managing director of Tai Ping Koon and the fifth generation owner of the family

business. “Our basic principal is to be innovative, to make dishes that are suitable for Hong Kong people, with our own characteristics.” To cope with the rapidly changing market, Tai Ping Koon has started to introduce set lunch and dinner menus. “There were no sets on the menu in the early days. People back then liked ordering food separately. But the young people now like ordering sets,” Chui says. Driven by a great interest and passion in cooking, Chui is determined to keep Tai Ping Koon and soy sauce western alive. “Some people say it’s stupid for me to not sell the property, but I don’t see Tai Ping Koon as a business. I want to keep this collective memory of Hong Kong people alive.” Many customers tell Chui that they have been eating at Tai Ping Koon since they were children, and are now bringing their own children here. Chui says this encourages him to carry on with the business. Tai Ping Koon is one of the few restaurants that still provide accommodation for their staff. “They can have a good rest here, and living together allows them to bond very well, and they have a sense of belonging. These are the intangible benefits that cannot be measured in numbers,” says Chui. G/F, 60 Stanley St., Central, 2899-2780.

Golden Phoenix Grill Room Restaurant Served on a sizzling pan, the fillet steak is Golden Phoenix’s golden dish. “You can’t find any softer fillet outside Golden Phoenix,” says Noble Lam, the restaurant’s managing director, and also the daughter of founder “Uncle” Lam. Sauce is the essence of soy sauce western, and at Golden Phoenix, you can choose from a homemade gravy to a black pepper sauce to give your steaks a richer taste. The Russian borsch at Golden Phoenix is another specialty; there’s no beef in the recipe, and the soup has a thick texture. Before Golden Phoenix opened, steaks were exclusive to the city’s elite. With a mission to bring steaks to ordinary Hongkongers at a fair price, Uncle Lam opened up the Golden Phoenix Grill Room Restaurant in Prince Edward in 1969. Even to this day, the restaurant insists on giving diners an authentic 60s/70s “Old Hong Kong” steakhouse experience. At Golden Phoenix, soy sauce western means using western ingredients to make western dishes, but using Hong Kong-style cooking techniques. “Unlike western-style steaks, our steaks are marinated before cooking,” Noble Lam says. “The chef and one of our waiters have been working for my dad for more than 40 years, and they have never left Golden Phoenix,” she says. “Whenever [the waiter] takes a day off, customers get concerned and ask ‘Where is he? Is he retired?’” Enchanted by the food and people working here, customers are also as loyal to Golden Phoenix as the staff are. “So many of them started eating here since they were small, and now they’re bringing their grandchildren here,” Lam says. “There was a couple who asked us if they could take their wedding photos here, because they always came here to have lunch when they were dating as students. It’s really heartwarming.” “Hong Kong is a place full of diversity and it will always have room for soy sauce western. Of course its glory days have passed, but there’s now a stable market in Hong Kong,” Lam says. Meanwhile, Golden Phoenix has expanded to Zhongshan in China and is growing strong. “My father built such an excellent brand, and I don’t want to waste it and see Golden Phoenix close down,” Lam says. G/F, 102 Lai Chi Kok Rd., Prince Edward, 2891-6832. 16 W HERE H ONG KONG I J Uly 2013

Uncle Lam

Queen’s Café When Queen’s Café first opened, it brought the then relatively inaccessible Russian cuisine to Hong Kong, but also gave it some Chinese touches along the way, by adding rice to the menu and using soy sauce to make some dishes. You won’t find many differences between Queen’s Café’s menu back in 1952, when it first opened, and its current version. Founded by owner Yu Wing-fu, the original Queen’s Café was located on King’s Road in North Point. It was then relocated to Lee Garden Road in Causeway Bay in 1964, and later to Hysan Avenue before it too closed its doors. Nowadays, there are three branches of the brand scattered throughout the city. One signature dish at Queen’s is the borsch. The classic Russian borsch soup has a layer of thick oil on the surface to keep things hot underneath. To make the dish appealing to Hongkongers, Queen’s Café greatly reduces the amount of oil while using the same cooking techniques. “Hongkongers like sauce, they like eating rice with sauce, but sauce isn’t that common in western cuisine,” says restaurant director Susanna Tsang. As a result, Queen’s Café has introduced different kinds of sauces to the menu, all homemade and blended with soy sauce to keep the essence of western cuisine

while adding a very Hong Kong twist. “As Hong Kong changes, Queen’s Café needs to change as well,” Tsang says. Queen’s Café used to serve massive portions back in the day, to suit the economic environment at that time, but now it provides smaller, just-right portions to avoid wastage. “Some people don’t like it, and they don’t like it when we tell them ‘That’s enough dishes for all of you’ when they are ordering. But we actually mean well, we treat customers like our friends and that’s why we don’t want them to waste money or food.” The restaurant’s ownership is familybased and multi-generational, and the chefs in Queen’s Café follow the same system too. “Chefs are trained by apprenticeship. The younger chefs follow what their masters teach them strictly and loyally and they dare not change it,” Tsang says. “It is certain that soy sauce western will become extinct one day,” Tsang believes. In the meantime, the Queen’s Café brand is still healthy and strong, and recently expanded with a new branch in Beijing. Various branches, including Shop A, 18/F, Lee Theatre Plaza, 99 Percival St., Causeway Bay, 3151-7595.

Golden Phoenix

NO RULES, JUST RIGHT. ‘GO OUTBACK’ TONIGHT! Causeway Bay 2/F, JP Plaza, 22-36 Paterson St. Reservations: 2881 8012 Wanchai 1/F, De Fenwick, 8-12 Fenwick St. Reservations: 3101 0418

www.outback.com.hk

Whampoa Shop 3A, G/F, Site 4, Whampoa Garden, Hunghom Reservations: 2766 2823

Tuen Mun Tsuen Wan

Whampoa Tsim Sha Tsui Wanchai

Tsim Sha Tsui East Taikoo Causeway Bay

Tsim Sha Tsui Shop 1, Level 2, 26 Nathan Rd. Reservations: 3741 1728

Tsim Sha Tsui East Shops 23-28, Upper Ground Floor, Tsim Sha Tsui Centre, 66 Mody Rd. Reservations: 2311 7800 Tsuen Wan Shops 3-5, Level 2, Discovery Park Shopping Centre, 398 Castle Peak Rd. Reservations: 2940 0682 Taikoo Shops G9-G10, G/F, Kornhill Plaza, 1 Kornhill Rd. Reservations: 2560 8246 Tuen Mun Shop 2016-2017, 2/F, Phase 1, Tuen Mun Town Plaza Reservations: 2426 3918

JUly 2013 I WHERE HONG KONG 17

where

the guide Eating Out Looking for a good alfresco terrace to relax with a drink in hand? Check out Be On Canton, the newly completed outdoor portion of Marco Polo Gateway Hotelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s buffet restaurant, Three On Canton. The 4,000-square foot space is bedecked with comfy lawn chairs and well-kept greens, and offers a wide selection of tipple as well as finger foods like tapas and oysters. And when youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve finally had enough of the hot and humid weather, just venture inside for an all-you-can-eat international feast. Be On Canton, 3/F, Gateway Hotel, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2113-7828.

Art+culture | The Guide

Go Fish A distinctive Hong Kong fishing village is captured in a collective exhibition of visually stunning photos. By Leonie Xin Chao-Fong

A kind of “Venice of the Orient”, the sleepy fishing village of Tai O on Lantau Island is a unique slice of Hong Kong heritage. Once home to Hong Kong’s biggest fishing community, Tai O is a throwback to Hong Kong’s earlier days. Home to the Tanka people, a community of fisherfolk who have built their houses above the waters of Lantau Island for generations, the stilt houses of Tai O are a photographer’s dream. The upcoming “Capturing Tai O” exhibiton, presented by Flanhardt Galerie und Atelier at the Landmark in Central brings together the work of eight local and international photographers who fell captive to the charm, simplicity and tranquility of Y

You’ll find some of the best art and antique galleries in town along Hong Kong Island’s Hollywood Road.

20 W HERE H ONG KONG I J Uly 2013

8/F Club Lusitano Bldg. 16 Ice House St. Central Hong Kong Tel : 852-21678896 Email : hongkong@desarthe.com

Art+culture | The Guide

Y this simple fishing village. Inspired by its nostalgic landscape and culture, these artists set out to capture its enchanting character and beguiling history. The works displayed in this exhibition aim to present Tai O’s fascinating and pervasive energy, harmony and cohesion. Participating artists are Irene Flanhardt, Philip Chan, Karen Choi, Chris Coelho, Tracey van Geest, Annie Kwong, Leon Suen and Mable Tsang, all of whom are professional or freelance photographers who have exhibited either locally and overseas. Through July 31. 10am-10pm. 3/F, Landmark Central, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central. Flanhardt Galerie und Atelier, 1/F, Block B, Tai O Garden, Shek Tsai Po Street, Tai O,2882-3990.

Art Talk

Two exhibitions for your enlightenment. By Sean Hebert Light Before Dawn: Unofficial Chinese Art 1974-1985 Out of the darkness of Mao’s Cultural Revolution emerged three influential contemporary art groups: Wuming (No Name), Xingxing (Stars) and Caocao (Grass Society)—that shared a commitment to push Chinese art past the confines of Socialist Realism. While each took markedly different approaches aesthetically, their pieces all elevate the value of personal creativity and expression to the forefront, and are a time capsule of a post-Mao era that is seldom explored from an artistic perspective. This exhibition features over 100 works from 21 artists, including Zhang Wei, Ma Desheng, Ma Kelu and Ai Weiwei. Light Before Dawn

Through Sep 1. Asia Society Gallery, 9 Justice Drive, Admiralty, 2103-9511.

Angela Bulloch: Universal Mineral Canadian-born but British-raised Angela Bulloch’s work is a manifestation of her interest in systems, patterns and rules, and at Simon Lee she presents three fascinating staples from her past exhibitions: the pulsing, shifting Pixel Boxes; her stimulus-inspired, interactive Drawing Machines; and her constellationpacked electronic simulations of the night sky, which will take over an entire wall for this show. Through Jul 4. Simon Lee Gallery, 3/F, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2801-6252. Angela Bulloch

22 W HERE H ONG KONG I J Uly 2013

Art+culture Antiques

Altfield Gallery

ALTFIELD GALLERY — One of the first galleries to focus on antique Chinese furniture, Altfield holds eight to 10 exhibitions a year. It deals in Southeast Asian sculpture and decorative arts, antique maps and topographical prints relating to Asia, as well as Chinese, Tibetan and Caucasian carpets. Altfield also produces a range of reproduction furniture and accessories in the Chinoiserie style. Shipping available. Shop 248-9, 2/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2537-6370, www.altfield.com.hk.

ARCH ANGEL ANTIQUES — Known as one of the most reliable antique galleries in Hong Kong. Clients have access to both affordable and museum quality collections from Han and Tang dynasties. The three-story shop also houses large collections of Qing dynasty blue and white porcelain and restored 16th- to 18th-century Chinese furniture. Rare and authentic stone and bronze sculptures and buddhas, and terracotta sculptures from China and South-Eastern Asia are found in the viewing galleries, plus there are over 200 paintings in the extensive ancestral scroll collection. Open daily 9:30am-6:30pm. 53-55 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2851-6848, antiques@archangelantiques.com1.hk.

CHINA ART — This leading restorer and dealer in fine Asian antique furniture and artifacts holds frequent exhibitions and has published two books, “Antiques in the Raw” and “Regional Furniture.” Go to the website to see what’s in stock, then make an appointment to visit the warehouse. Unit 26-27, 15/F, Tower A, Southmark, 11 Yip Hing St., Aberdeen, 2542-0982, www.chinaart.com.hk.

ARCH ANGEL GALERIE “V” — This large gallery, just across from Arch Angel Antiques, is a must for collectors and connoisseurs interested in early stone sculpture and 16th to 18th-century Chinese furniture. These fine early examples are shown in original condition and exquisitely reconditioned by an expert furniture specialist. The gallery owner has been collecting and restoring Chinese furniture since 1985. All items come with certification and unconditional guarantees. 70 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2851-6828, antiques@archangelantiques.com.hk.

JOYCE GALLERY — Specializing in ancient utensils and sculptures from across China, Joyce displays a collection of antiquities dating to the Tang dynasty, including ancient bronzes, stone carvings, gold and silver ware, jade, and pottery. It guarantees its descriptions of the period and history of its items and offers a full refund if the purchased item does not match the description. Shop 1, 123 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2545-1869, www.joycegallery.com.

DRAGON CULTURE — Specializes in dinosaur egg fossils, Han Dynasty terracotta, Tang sculptures and Ming porcelain figures. 231 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2545-8098, www.dragonculture.com.hk.

SELECTION OF CONTEMPORARY RUSSIAN ART Until late August

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19/6/13 4:43 PM

Art+culture | The Guide

Lam & Co Antiquities

LAM & CO ANTIQUITIES — An impressive collection of fine Chinese antiquities which ranges from the Neolithic period to the Qing dynasty and includes bronze, gold and silver ware, pottery and porcelain. This shop is well-known by collectors, galleries and auction dealers worldwide and offers repair, restoration, authentication and shipping services. 2/4, 181 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2543-8877, www.lamantiquities.com. OI LING ANTIQUES — A renowned dealer in fine Chinese antique furniture and objets d’art, Oi Ling has been featured in major international art exhibitions under the gallery’s previous name, Contes D’Orient. The company operates an outlet in Central, a warehouse in Aberdeen, and a workshop in China where skilled workers restore furniture using traditional techniques. The Hollywood Road showroom houses a large collection of furniture from the 17th and 18th centuries, as well as authenticated pottery items and sculptures dating as far back as the Neolithic era. Repair, restoration and shipping available. 58 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2815-9422, www.oilingantiques.com. WATTIS FINE ART — Specializes in antique maps of Asia, and historical photographs and prints of China, Hong Kong, and Southeast Asia. 2/F, 20 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2524-5302, www.wattis.com.hk.

Galleries 10 CHANCERY LANE GALLERY — Focusing on established and emerging international artists, 10 Chancery Lane consists of three large gallery spaces. It holds exhibitions of paintings, photographs, installations and videos, as well as performances by renowned artists. G/F, 10 Chancery Lane, SoHo, 2810-0065, www.10chancerylanegallery.com. AGNèS B. LIBRAIRIE GALERIE — French fashion chain and long-time supporter of the arts, Agnès b. has a contemporary art space dedicated to showing the best from Asia and the world. G/F, 118 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2869-5505, www.agnesb.com. ALISAN FINE ARTS — This well-established gallery has organized more than 100 exhibitions for Chinese artists from around the world. Run by respected art-world figure Alice King, who has worked with the Guggenheim Museum, it also mounts exhibitions for overseas venues. Room 2305, Hing Wai Centre, 7 Tin Wan Praya Rd., Aberdeen, 2526-1091, www.alisan.com.hk. 24 W HERE H ONG KONG I J Uly 2013

ARCH ANGEL ART GALLERY — One of Hong Kong’s biggest galleries features an outstanding collection of contemporary Vietnamese oil paintings, acquired directly from the artists. The owners have carefully selected and bought each painting during frequent trips to Vietnam so, contrary to common practice, none of the works are on consignment. Be sure to check out their private stock on nearby Peel Street, featuring a fine collection of 20th-century contemporary paintings from some of Asia’s leading artists. 38 Peel St., Central, 2851-6882, art@archangelart.com.hk. AP Contemporary— AP Contemporary is dedicated to supporting up-and-coming contemporary artists, especially those from developing countries like Brazil, Russia, India and China. Having said that, European and American talents are also represented at this space. 28 Tai Ping Shan St., Sheung Wan, 3105-2148, www.apcontemporary.com. ART BEATUS — Established in the early 1990s, Art Beatus features mainly original paintings and art by contemporary Chinese artists. Most of its collection has a retro slant, and uses elements of pop, propaganda, illustration and cartoon as vehicles for expression. Has branches in Vancouver and on Queen’s Road Central. G/F, 50 Peel St., Central, 2522-1138, www.artbeatus.com. ASIA FINE ART — Dedicated to promoting young Asian artists at affordable prices, this gallery has regular exhibitions of work from China, Vietnam and Burma for sale on site and online. 14 Sik On St., Wan Chai (entrance at 99 Queen’s Rd. East), 2522-0405, www.asia-fineart.com. ASIA SOCIETY HONG KONG — Asia Society Hong Kong's big, brand-spankin’-new headquarters are in a beautifully refurbished former storehouse for British artillery and ammunition. Playing host to a myriad of lectures, exhibitions, performances, film screenings, tours, seminars and conferences—97 percent of which are open to the public—the Asia Society is a literal treasure trove. Closed Mondays. 9 Justice Drive, Admiralty, 2103-9511, www.asiasociety.org/hong-kong. BEN BROWN FINE ARTS — After 10 years at Sotheby’s and two more at a private gallery, Ben Brown and his wife sought to create a space that housed pieces reflective of their tastes—primarily on European modern and contemporary artworks. 301 Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2522-9600, www.benbrownfinearts.com. THE CAT STREET GALLERY — Showcasing contemporary and modern art in a variety of mediums, Cat Street exhibits emerging and established artists from around the world. 222 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2291-0006, www.thecatstreetgallery.com. CONNOISSEUR ART GALLERY — Specializing in contemporary Chinese fine art since 1989, Connoisseur features such acclaimed artists as Paris-based Jia Juan-li, renowned Guangzhou artist Zhang Da-zhong and still

life artist Liu Ying-zhao. Shop G3, Chinachem Hollywood Centre, 1 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2868-5358, www.connoisseur-art.com. CONNOISSEUR CONTEMPORARY — This contemporary gallery seeks to identify new and emerging talents as well as those deserving of more space and recognition. Expect to find a wide range of genres and styles from around the world. Shop G4, Chinachem Hollywood Centre, 1 Hollywood Rd., Central, 3521-0300, www.connoisseurcontemporary.com CONTEMPORARY BY ANGELA LI — Perhaps best known for introducing Chinese artists Chen Jiagang and Liao Yibai to the art world, CBAL boasts a lovely space and a carefully curated exhibition program. G/F, 248 Hollywood Rd., Central, 3571-8200, www.cbal.com.hk. DE SARTHE GALLERY — Specializing in the sale of 19th and 20th century masters, previous exhibitions have shown the works of art world greats such as Miro, Picasso and Chu Teh-chun, just to name a few. First opening in Paris in 1977 and branching out across the U.S. and Europe, de Sarthe finally opened its first Asian outpost in Hong Kong in 2011. 8/F, 16 Ice House St., Central, 2167-8896, desarthe.com. ESPACE LOUIS VUITTON — LV has been invading gallery spaces for the past half decade, stirring unrest in the hearts of hard-line art critics but appreciation in the eyes of those beholders who’re able to look past reservations about brand-name commercialism. Espace Louis Vuitton, Louis Vuitton Mansion, 5 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 8100-1182. GAGOSIAN GALLERY — With 12 galleries and counting, the famed Gagosian has chosen Hong Kong as its gateway to Asia. Theyopened their doors in January 2011 with a bang, featuring an all-new exhibition by Damien Hirst—Gagosian only exhibits the crème-de-lacrème of the art world. 7/F, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2151-0555, www.gagosian.com. GALERIE DU MONDE — Galerie du Monde hosts exhibitions by Chinese artists including Li Shuang, Le Longyao, Yu Xiaohui, Hon Chifun and Pan Xun. Its conservation studio provides a complete restoration service for works of art on paper and canvas. Shop 108, 1/F, Ruttonjee Center, 11 Duddell St., Central, 2525-0529, www.galeriedumonde.com. GROTTO FINE ART — Curated by Henry Au-yeung, a specialist in 20th-century Chinese art history, this gallery represents local artists, with an interest in new and avant-garde art forms. You’ll find paintings, sculptures, prints and photography, mixedmedia and installation pieces. 2/F, 31C-D Wyndham St., Central, 2121-2270, www.grottofineart.com. HANART TZ GALLERY — A specialist in contemporary Chinese art, Hanart has exhibited works in oil, ink, print, sculpture, photography and video by mainland, Taiwanese

Art+culture

and Hong Kong artists. It offers a wide selection and prices that accommodate almost everyone. 401 Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2526-9019, www.hanart.com.

Opera Gallery

Lehmann Maupin Gallery — With the original branch in New York and with its reputation of supporting contemporary art and culture, the Lehmann Maupin Gallery will be opening its doors here on March 14. Architect Rem Koolhas designed the gallery, making sure to keep the historic columns in the Pedder Building intact. Female Korean artist Lee Bul will open with an exhibit featuring paintings and 3D sculptures using all sorts of media and materials. 407 Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central.2530-0025, hongkong@lehmanmaupin.com. OPERA GALLERY — Opera Gallery features works by world-famous international artists, including Picasso, Chagall, Salvador Dali, Renoir and Chinese painter Ting Shao Kuang, among others. W Place, 52 Wyndham St., Central, 2810-1208, www.operagallery.com. Puerta Roja — Puerta Roja was established to promote Latin American art and artists to the Hong Kong audience. Drawings, etchings, glasswork and sculptures are all featured here. Shop A, G/F, Wai Yue Building, 15-17 New St., Sheung Wan, 2803-0332. PICTURE THIS — The city’s largest affordable art gallery specializes in posters, antique maps, prints and early photographs of Hong Kong and China. It also carries antiquarian and secondhand books about Asia, first editions of modern literature, prints and photographs for children’s rooms, and sporting prints. Suite 1308, 13/F, 9 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2525-2820, www.picturethiscollection.com. PLUM BLOSSOMS GALLERY — Recognized for its exhibitions of contemporary Asian art as well as an outstanding collection of museum-quality ancient textiles, Plum Blossoms is an established platform for the promotion of both ancient and modern arts. Shop G6, Chinachem Hollywood Centre, 1 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2521-2189, www.plumblossoms.com. Red Square Gallery — Red Square Gallery is a window into Contemporary Russian Art. Expanding into four branches, the gallery is dedicated to bringing creative and dynamic artwork to Hong Kong. G/F, 1A Wong Nai Chung Rd., Happy Valley. 2838-0040, www.redsquare-gallery.com.

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Art+culture

Rouge Ephemere—Rouge Ephemere is a new gallery on Hollywood Road by French natives Françoise Thuriere and Yves Azemar, showcasing a selection of artworks which are not commonly found in Hong Kong’s art scene. Japanese raku ceramics, metal and wood sculpture as well as jewelry and vintage prints from international artists such as Christine Cloos, Diane Truti and Maud Lelievre can all be found here. Flat B, 1/F, 89 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2323-2394, www.facebook.com/ RougeEphemere. SHIN HWA GALLERY — Focusing on Asian contemporary art, Shin Hwa features both upcoming and established artists. It is particularly committed to innovative Chinese artists. G/F, 32 Aberdeen St., Central, 2803-7960, www.shinhwagallery.com.

White Cube

WHITE CUBE — One of the world’s top contemporary galleries opened its first nonUK outpost in Hong Kong in March of 2012. The gallery represents many members of the Young British Artists (YBA) movement, who are known for their shock factor, confrontational nature and use of disposable materials— for instance, Damien Hirst’s famous dead shark suspended in formaldehyde. G-1/F, 50 Connaught Rd. Central, 2592-2000, www.whitecube.com. ZEE STONE GALLERY — Zee Stone, established in 1991, exhibits a wide range of contemporary artists from mainland China, using both ink and color on paper and oil on canvas. The gallery’s exhibitions reflect the rich diversity of contemporary Chinese art, including abstract landscapes, realistic portraits, paintings on rice paper by traditionally trained Chinese masters and new work by a younger generation in acrylic and mixed media. G/F, Chinachem Hollywood Centre, 1 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2810-5895, www.zeestone.com.

Museums FLAGSTAFF HOUSE MUSEUM OF TEAWARE — Located in Flagstaff House, the oldest surviving colonial building in the territory, and once the home of the commander-in-chief of British forces in Hong Kong, the museum houses a prized Asian teaware collection. It’s also home to Lock Cha Tea House, which serves myriad varieties of tea and delicate vegetarian dim sum in a cute Chinese-style setting. Closed Tue. 10 Cotton Tree Drive, Hong Kong Park, Central, 2869-0690, www.hk.art.museum.

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Art+culture

HONG KONG FILM ARCHIVE — A repository of all things related to Hong Kong films, the Archive contains lots of movies, conservation labs, a resource center, exhibition hall and a cinema. Closed Thursdays. 50 Lei King Rd., Sai Wan Ho, 2739-2139. HONG KONG HERITAGE MUSEUM — This modern museum is devoted to preserving the city’s historical, art and cultural heritage. It features permanent exhibitions on the New Territories, Cantonese opera and a Children’s Discovery Gallery. Closed Tue & public holidays. 1 Man Lam Rd., Sha Tin, 2180-8188, www.hk.heritage.museum. HONG KONG MARITIME MUSEUM — This museum holds semi-permanent and special exhibitions tracing Hong Kong's growth into a major world port, and the contributions made by China and the West to the development of ships, maritime exploration, trade and naval warfare. Central Ferry Pier No. 8, 3713-2500, www.hkmaritimemuseum.org. HONG KONG MUSEUM OF ART — One of the city’s largest museums houses fine examples of ancient Chinese art from the Han to the Qing dynasties. The exhibition galleries regularly showcase contemporary and international works, including major traveling exhibitions from world-class museums. 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2721-0116, www.hk.art.museum. HONG KONG MUSEUM OF HISTORY — This fascinating museum explores 6,000 years of Hong Kong history, from the Neolithic to the post-war period, with recreations of prehistoric scenes and the early colonial era. It’s the reconstruction of a street that really grabs your attention. Closed Tue. 100 Chatham Rd. South, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2724-9042, www.hk.history.museum. HONG KONG MUSEUM OF MEDICAL SCIENCES — Located in an elegant brick building, this museum charts the development of medicine in the city. It was the first to focus on both Western and traditional Chinese approaches to healthcare. Along with a display of herbs and remedies, there is antique apothecary equipment. Closed Mon. 2 Caine Lane, Mid-Levels, 2549-5123, www.hkmms.org.hk. LAW UK FOLK MUSEUM — Law Uk, which means “Law’s House” after its original owner, is an 18th-century, Qing-dynasty Hakka village house, complete with furnishings and artifacts. It is the sole remaining architectural example of its kind in Chai Wan. Free admission. Closed Thu. 14 Kut Shing St., Chai Wan, 2896-7006, www.hk.history.museum. LEI CHENG UK HAN TOMB MUSEUM — Housing a 2,000-year-old tomb with four chambers, this is one of the city’s most fascinating monuments. Discovered in 1955, it now has an adjacent gallery that features 58 items excavated during the construction of the Lei Cheng Uk Resettlement Area. Closed Thu. 41 Tonkin St., Sham Shui Po, 2386-2863, www.hk.history.museum.

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dining | The Guide

Macaron Mania Just when we thought the city’s love affair with macarons was finally at an end, the cycle has inevitably started again. And this time around, we have some internationally renowned brands getting involved. By Adele Wong The recent arrival of Pierre Hermé (Shop 1019C, Podium Level One, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2833-5700) at IFC marks the

latest in a series of high-profile macaron ventures imported straight from France, the birthplace of the dainty French treat. Made of two simple meringue shells with a cream or jam-based filling in between, who would’ve known that the macaron would outlive its fad status in Hong Kong and actually earn a permanent spot in pastry and confectionery shops all over town? “The macaron is a traditional French pastry, [but] the macaron that we know today was actually created in the 50s,” explains Pierre Herme, founder of one of the earliest macaron brands to make its name in the market. “The lightness of its rounded shells and the velvety smoothness of its cream, fruit or mixed fillings has made the macaron the most popular [French pastry] in Hong Kong,” says Vang Wong, manager of Fauchon (B2/F, Jasons Food & Living, 500 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2776-1090),

another popular French brand that first set up shop in the city two years ago with a stall at the airport, before eventually relocating to Hysan Place last summer.

But it was the arrival of French macaron mansion Ladurée (Shop 3224, 3/F, Gateway Arcade, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2175-5028) last

December at Harbour City that really drove Hongkongers crazy with excitement. For the first couple of weeks, customers had to queue for at least half an hour before being granted access to their fix. And there’s nothing like a long queue to validate something’s status in the city. In many ways, this second wave of macaron mania—after the first wave, about half a decade ago—is part of the city’s increasingly pervasive obsession with French pastries in general. Financier specialist and general baker Eric Kayser (various locations, including Shop G14-15, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2736-2884) opened its doors early this year, right around the time Boulangerie Bistronomique (Shop 1A, 1 Davis St., Kennedy Town, 2872-0811) started dishing out

canéles and madeleines to doting diners. 126 Grammes (G/F, 42 Aberdeen St., Central, 2886-1885) meanwhile, has been trying

very hard to make their delicate little choux pastries fashionable with the in-crowd. We say, keep them coming!

Laduree 28 W HERE H ONG KONG I j uly 2013

Laduree

Pierre Herme

dining

Top Tables

Check out these two hot new restaurants.

Fatty Crab

MC Kitchen

Admiralty DAN RYAN’S — American. $$$ With mammoth meat platters and massive potato skins, Dan Ryan’s prides itself on Chicago-style chow. Shop 112, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, 2845-4600. METROPOL — Dim sum. $ Beef balls, steamed shrimp dumplings, pork-and-shrimp dumplings, stuffed rice rolls and other Hong Kong specialties are wheeled around in traditional trolleys for an authentic dim sum experience. 3/F, United Centre, 95 Queensway, Admiralty, 2865-1988. NICHOLINI’S — Italian. $$$$ Hands down the best Sunday brunch around. It gets kudos from honest-to-goodness Italians, and that’s good enough for us. 8/F, Conrad International Hong Kong, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, 2521-3838. PETRUS — French. $$$$ This place can best be equated with a fine wine: expensive but so pleasing to the palate that it’s worth the

MC Kitchen

Fatty Crab

Wanna do some fine-dining in Kwun Tong? Now you can. Local chef Alvin Leung has opened up a fancy resto called MC Kitchen, doing what he does best: creative cuisine. This time, it’s not the Chinese molecular gastronomy that put Leung’s first resto, Bo Innovation, on the map, but a style of “modern comfort food” that includes everything from laksa bouillabaisse to chicken risotto. But don’t expect to get heaps of fries or anything remotely uncouth on a plate—with Leung’s magic touch, even comfort food gets refined and reformed.

Fatty Crab, a Southeast Asian-themed resto that started out and made it big in New York, now has a branch in Hong Kong. Expect an amalgamation of Thai, Indonesian, Malaysian, Vietnamese and Singaporean flavors in the form of chili Dungeness crabs, curry-broth clams and succulent crispy pork belly at this hipster-chic space. And be prepared to use your fingers. G/F, 11-13 Old Bailey St., Central, 2521-2033.

G/F, The Restaurant Space, AIA Kowloon Tower, Landmark East, 100 How Ming St., Kwun Tong, 3758-2239.

money. The décor is a bit ostentatious, but the opulence suits the magnificent view. 56/F, Island Shangri-La, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, 2820-8590.

Causeway Bay IPPUDO — Ramen. $ Japan’s famous chain serves ramen in bowls so enormous they should be called cauldrons, with a meaty, savory broth, tender pork pieces, springy noodles and tangy spring onions topped with fungus and bean sprouts. They also have a signature mini BBQ pork bun, which is a little two-bite sandwich of porcine heaven. 2/F, 8 Russell St., 2892-2387. MANGO TREE — Thai. $$-$$$ Somehow, in the middle of bustling Causeway Bay, in a high-rise chock-full of other restaurants and bars, Mango Tree manages to be an oasis of dim lighting, carefully placed flowers and good Thai food. 5/F, Cubus, 1 Hoi Ping Rd., Causeway Bay, 2577-0828.

Sorabol — Korean. $$ The smell wafting from the open barbecues in the middle of each table will get your appetite going— which is a good thing, since you’ll want to try everything. 18/F, Lee Theatre Plaza, 99 Percival St., 2881-6823. Tott’s — Modern Asian/Western. $$$-$$$$ Sophisticated décor, harbor-view seats, and perfectly crafted entrees are the hallmark here. The attentive service also deserves special mention. 34/F, The Excelsior, 281 Gloucester Rd., 2837-6786.

Central & Lan Kwai Fong AMBER — Modern French. $$$$ Modern, inventive French cuisine meets attentiongrabbing decor. 7/F, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2132-0066. CAPRICE — French. $$$$ Three Michelin Stars. Splurge on haute cuisine at this French restaurant staffed by chefs formerly of Le Cinq june 2013 I WHERE HONG KON G 29

dining | The Guide in Paris. The gorgeous interior includes floor-toceiling windows. 6/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., 3196-8860. INAGIKU — Japanese. $$$ The Hong Kong branch of one of Japan’s oldest and best-known restaurants, it lives up to the buzz: authentic, delicious and quiveringly fresh. 4/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., 2805-0600. ISLAND TANG — Cantonese. $$$$ Shanghai Tang founder David Tang’s art-deco dining space is a welcome bright spot amid Central’s modern office towers, with top local cuisine to match. Shop 222, 2/F, The Galleria, 9 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2526-8798. ISOLA BAR & GRILL — Italian. $$$$ The glam factor is off the scale, with stunning harbor views and high ceilings, not to mention handmade pastas, pizzas, risottos and more. Shop 3071-75 & 4011, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., 2383-8765.

Mayta — Peruvian. $$$ Indulge in colorful and multi-textured dishes like pork belly stew and seafood ceviche at one of LKF’s most popular new restos. 3/F, Grand Progress Building, 15 Lan Kwai Fong, Central, 2790-0928. pierre — French. $$$$ Masterminded by threeMichelin-star chef Pierre Gagnaire, this is a bastion of fine French dining. 25/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd., 2825-4001.

Sevva

YELLOW DOOR KITCHEN — Sichuan. $$ Hong Kong’s first private kitchen, this favorite has been serving up fiery Sichuan cuisine since the early 1990s. 6/F, 37 Cochrane St., 2858-6555.

L’ATELIER DE JOEL ROBUCHON — French. $$$$ The Frenchman named “Chef of the Century” by Gault Millau designs authentic dishes with exquisite finesse and precision, which are then turned out by highly trained chefs in the open kitchen. Shop 401, 4/F, The Landmark, 2166-9000.

ZUMA — Japanese. $$$$ This is one good-looking restaurant, split over two floors and linked by a sumptuous staircase. It’s the local branch of London’s famed eatery, offering a sophisticated twist on the traditional izakaya. 5-6/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3657-6388.

LIN HEUNG Lau— Cantonese. $$ The setup has changed little in more than 50 years and it still remains a popular hangout for those craving a bit of old Hong Kong nostalgia and really, really good food. Most people come here for daytime dim sum, but dinner’s great too. 160-164 Wellington St., Central, 2544-4556.

The Peak THE PEAK LOOKOUT — International. $$$ Offering an alfresco terrace with a view of the city, this restaurant features an open, bright and airy environment—more like a mountain lodge than a country club—and excellent fare. 121 Peak Rd., 2849-1000.

Repulse Bay SPICES — Pan-Asian. $$$ Below a glassy high-rise, this restaurant is devoted to showcasing the “fabled ingredients of the exotic food of the East.” It also offers a fantastic view of the South China Sea and the sandy shores below. 109 Repulse Bay Rd., 2292-2821.

Lung King Heen

LUNG KING HEEN — Cantonese. $$$-$$$$ Three Michelin Stars. The name means “view of the dragon” and the floor-to-ceiling windows make the case. Stylish décor, flawless service and traditional as well as innovative dishes only add to the appeal. 4/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., 3196-8880. 30 W HERE H ONG KONG I j uly 2013

YARDBIRD — Yakitori. $$$ This is a no-frills yet achingly modern two-story yakitori joint in a trendy corner of the district. The skewers are all chicken-based, and taken from every part of the chicken’s body from the heart to the skin. Don’t forget to sample the house sake. 33-35 Bridges St., Sheung Wan, 2547-9273.

Tsim Sha Tsui

SEVVA — Contemporary. $$$$ The brainchild of local socialite Bonnie Gokson, this 22,000-square-foot penthouse restaurant comes with a buzzing wraparound terrace. The elegant eatery serves dishes drawn from Cantonese, Shanghainese, Indian and British culinary concepts. 25/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., 2537-1388.

L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon

POSTO PUBBLICO — Italian. $$$ Hip Greenwich Village types come to get their fill of such dishes as veal meatballs and “Brooklyn Special” sandwiches of homemade mozzarella, eggplant and lashings of balsamic vinegar. 28 Elgin St., 2577-7160.

THE VERANDAH — Continental/International. $$$ Book brunch in time to get a seat at this popular spot. On other days, the a la carte menu never disappoints. Closed Mon. 109 Repulse Bay Rd., 2292-2822.

SoHo JASHAN — Indian. $$ Immediately impressive, with dim lighting, vermilion walls and colonial furnishings, Jashan offers an extensive menu, delicious food and hotel-level service. 1/F, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Rd., 3105-5300.

Angelini

ANGELINI — Italian. $$$-$$$$ With Italian native Marco Medaglia at the helm, Angelini serves up unpretentious food, with an emphasis on seafood and ingredients air-freighted from Italy three times a week. Also has a great harbor view. Kowloon Shangri-La, 64 Mody Rd., 2733-8750. FELIX — Fusion. $$$$ Still one of the swankiest restaurants in town, with Philippe Starck décor, modern food and famous bathrooms. It’s glam, contemporary and kid-free. 28/F, The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, 2696-6778. FOOK LAM MOON — Cantonese. $$$$ Devotees swear this place serves the best Cantonese cuisine in the world. It’s been the place to go for southern Chinese delicacies for more than five decades. 55 Kimberley Rd., 2366-0286. HUTONG — Northern Chinese. $$$$ Dark wood furnishings and a fabulous harbor view make for a modern-day Chinese dining hall. The food is beautifully presented northern Chinese haute cuisine. 28/F, 1 Peking Rd., 3428-8342. MORTON’S OF CHICAGO — Steak. $$$$ With huge slabs of prime, aged beef accompanied by what looks like the winning entries in a hard-fought vegetable show, Morton’s is one of the best steak restaurants in Hong Kong. 4/F, Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel & Towers, 20 Nathan Rd., 2732-2343. NOBU — Japanese. $$$$ Mind-blowingly artistic in presentation, design and execution, this famous restaurant deserves the hype. Sushi is a must, as is the amazing black cod. 2/F, InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd., 2313-2323.

dining

Spoon

SPOON — French. $$$$ Michelin-starred chef Alain Ducasse’s restaurant has floorto-ceiling windows, a fabulous harbor view and a pick-and-mix menu that gives you room to be creative. InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd., 2313-2256. T’ANG COURT — Cantonese. $$$$ This little gem serves some of the city’s finest Cantonese cuisine. 1/F, Langham Hotel, 8 Peking Rd., 2375-1133. Whisk — Modern European. $$$ Try the innovative, flawlessly presented dishes at this special eatery. 5/F, The Mira, 118 Nathan Rd., 2315-5999. YE SHANGHAI — Shanghainese. $$$ With upscale cuisine served in shareable portions, this is the place for Shanghainese dishes such as camphor-smoked duck with pancakes. Also known for its interior full of fabulous chinoiserie. 6/F, The Marco Polo Hong Kong Hotel, 3 Canton Rd., 2376-3322.

Wan Chai BO INNOVATION — Asian. $$$-$$$$ Experimental cuisine pairing local ingredients with delicacies imported from across the world. Shop 13, 2/F, J Residence, 60 Johnston Rd., 2850-8371. Catalunya — Spanish. $$$$ This 7,500 square feet of restaurant and bar space offers Catalan-style dishes such as roasted suckling pig and lobster rice. G/F, Guardian House, Morrison Hill, 32 Oi Kwan Rd., Wan Chai, 2866-7900. CéPAGE — European. $$$$ There are just 56 seats for maximum privacy—and exclusivity, of course. Dishes are intricately prepared, including their caviar on petals of potato salad with herbs, and their grilled amadai with vin jaune and black truffle. Be warned: Cépage is toe-curlingly expensive, but hey, you might spot a tycoon or two. 23 Wing Fung St., Wan Chai, 2861-3130. MADAM SIXTY EIGHT — European. $$$ At this posh eclectic eatery, an open kitchen faces the diners, with chefs readying exquisitely prepared dishes scurrying around. 1/F, The Podium, J Senses, 60 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2527-2558. THE PAWN — British. $$$ Serving fabulous food in a faithful restoration of an 1888 landmark building, The Pawn houses a bar and a restaurant with a roof and a breezy balcony overlooking Johnston Road. The menu has modern British fare with a luxurious twist. 62 Johnston Rd., 2866-3444. WOOLOOMOOLOO — Australian/New Zealand. $$$ This steakhouse is several places at once: a laid-back wine bar and a casual drinks terrace on the rooftop, and a fine-dining steakhouse below. 31-32/F, 256 Hennessy Rd., Wan Chai, 2893-6960. 32 W HERE H ONG KONG I j uly 2013

Taste of the city special advertising section

Spice features the

Enjoy a COMPLIMENTARY DESSERT with this ad

“Bollywood and Belly Dance Night’’,

a regular performance by two belly dancers, held every Thursday at 8:30pm .

* for dine-in and a la carte menu only We provide fine Thai, Indian and Malay cuisine with good selection of fine wines. Come experience our flavours of coriander, cumin, chili and lemongrass. Spice up your evening with friends!

Our chefs have also come up with a special menu to swing and sway to the diners’ delight of this groovy atmosphere.

www.spice-restaurant.hk 2/F, No.1 Knutsford Terrace, Tsim Sha Tsui, Tsim Sha Tsui Kowloon. Reservations: 2191 9880 / 2191 9886 Daily Opening Hours: Lunch: Mon – Sun 12nn – 3pm Dinner: Sun – Thu 6pm – 11pm Fri – Sat 6pm – 11:30pm

juLY 2013 I WH ERE HON G KONG 33

BARS & CLUBS

To get listed on this page, email advertising@asia-city.com.hk or call 2850-5678.

Stop a

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Bacar Barca is buzzing and busy with unpretentious food, wine and service at very competitive prices. It is popular with HK regulars who like to stand next to the escalator with wine in hand and people-watch. G/F, 2 Shelley St., SoHo, 2521-8322

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L’etage With the feel of a true gentlemen’s club, this is a place for refined Hongkongers to sit back and relax with a taditionally made cocktail.

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33-35 Staunton St., Central 2522 5300

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Iberico & Co. It is designed by award-winning designer Kinney Chan, offers something completely unique to SoHo customers – an airy, spacious and somewhat grand interior with an unpretentious gastro bar feel. G/F, 18 Shelley St., SoHo, 2752-8811

34 W HERE H ONG KONG July 2013

Enoteca on Elgin Enoteca on Elgin opened its doors in 2005 and remains busy and buzzing almost six years on. This narrow 60-seat Mediterranean tapas and wine bar is so popular with locals and tourists that reservations are a must. G/F, 47 Elgin St., SoHo, 2525-9944

BARS & CLUBS Stop C

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Cicada Cicada is the first wine bar and restaurant in Hong Kong to dedicate itself entirely to “Asian Tapas”. It’s intention is for guests to sample a wide array of dishes and flavors from all over the region in a contemporary, Asian inspired, city wine bar. G/F, 4 Shelley St., SoHo, 2521-8188

Angel’s Share

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golden liquid here to suit even the most discerning single-malt drinkers. 2/F, Amber Lodge, 23 hollywood Rd., Central 2805-8388

From Scotland, to Japan, there’s enough aged

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Specifically designed for whisky-lovers.

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The Blck Brd

Le Boudoir

This Chilled- out spot has an official

This Francophone hangout is all sultry

“no loud music” policy, making it the

drapes, chandeliers and velvet upholstery.

perfect place for a few low-key drinks.

The cocktails are stellar, too.

The out door terrace is a serene place

B/F, 65 Wyndham St., Central 25303807

to watch the world go by. 6/F, 8 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central 2545 8555

july 2013 I WHERE HONG KONG 35

nightlife | The Guide Bars & Clubs

Say Gin Gin’s making a comeback in Hong Kong, and here are a few bars that are serving the tipple in style. By Leonie Xin Chao-Fong

Angel’s Share

ANGEL’S SHARE — This unique drinking loft is specifically designed for whisky-lovers. Sourced from Scotland, to Japan, there’s enough aged golden liquid here to suit even the most discerning single-malt drinkers. 2/F, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2805-8388. AQUA spirit — For cocktails with a killer view, you can do no better than this swanky high-rise venue with an eagle’s eye view of the harbor. 29/F, 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3427-2288.

Il Milione A dazzling Italian—specifically, Umbrian—dining destination located on the ground floor of Central’s Hutchinson House, Il Milione features a grand vintage-style bar stacked with a mind-boggling selection of drinks, all listed on a 13th century newspaper-style menu. Try the G & T Perfetto, where you can select the specific ‘G’ and ‘T’ you desire for your own tailor-made drink. G/F, Hutchison House, 10 Harcourt Rd., Admiralty, 2481-1120.

Lily & Bloom Lily & Bloom offers a plethora of ginbased cocktails, from classics to twists. Try their refreshing and timeless bestselling East Side, made with London Dry Gin. 5-6/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Central , 2810-6166.

Mamoz This supersophisticated bar’s piece-deresistance is the Tear Rock, a refreshing concoction of Hendrick’s Gin, St. Germain, apple juice, lemon, passionfruit syrup, peach bitter, mint and basil, served in a glowing tear-shaped mug made of ice. 27-28/F, Cubus, 1 Hoi Ping Rd., Causeway Bay, 2890-3182.

G&T Have a browse through G&T’s Gin Bible. The house G&Tea, chilled and designed to be shared between two, is served in a charming glass teapot with teacups and saucers for a sophisticated boozy tetea-tete. For those looking for a punchier drink, go for the Gin Old-Fashioned. UG/F, Shama Place, 30 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2481-3588.

Origin Helmed by renowned local mixologist Antonio Lai, this gin-focused bar features a retro, Prohibition-style décor and houses a rotary evaporator for redistilling unique flavors into gin. Try one of the 12 different homemade gin flavors, including lemongrass, basil, raspberry, orange and grapefruit. G/F, 48 Wyndham St., Central, 2668-5583.

Azure — Stunning view, minimalist blue décor and great cocktails. 29/F, LKF Hotel, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 3518-9330. Beijing Club — This impressive megaclub recently celebrated its fourth anniversary and is the biggest in town. Expect wet-look vinyl walls, gold-plated bathrooms and a youthful crowd. 2-3/F & 5/F, Wellington Place, 2-8 Wellington St., Central, 2526-8298. Blckbrd — This chilled-out spot has an official “no loud music” policy, making it the perfect place for a few low-key drinks. Located on the sixth floor, the outdoor terrace is a serene place to watch the world go by. 6/F, 8 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, 2545-8555. BLUE BAR — The upscale Blue Bar is a big hit with the cocktail set. Yes, the martinis are worth getting dressed up for. Four Seasons Hong Kong, 8 Finance St., Central, 3196-8830. Café Gray Deluxe — Beside the seductively stretched bar are cozy booths for intimate lounging, and its 49th-floor perch guarantees breathtaking harbor views. Cocktail lovers should try the Hong Kong Highball. 49/F, The Upper House, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 3968-1106. Central Wine Club — This exclusive spot on Wyndham Street was designed with oenophiles in mind. Luxe, modern Baroque surrounds keep pace with the slow jazz and contemporary tunes. 3/F, Sea Bird House, 22-28 Wyndham St., Central, 2147-3448. CLUB@28 — This stylish bar has killer views, deadly cocktails and its very own outdoor oasis called The Pavilion. It’s members only, but you can join on arrival and it’s free. 28/F, Crowne Plaza Hotel, 8 Leighton Rd., Causeway Bay, 3980-3300.

For weekly event listings, pick up a free copy of HK Magazine (available at most bars, restaurants and coffee shops).

36 W H ERE H ONG KONG I j uly 2013

nightlife | The Guide COCKY BAR — The name is simply the bar’s way of boasting that it’s a top spot to grab a cocktail. Arguably true, since it has a stunning alfresco balcony overlooking the glittering harbor. 18/F, The One, 100 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2724-6388. DRAGON BAR — The kitschy-chic bar sits betwixt the equally droll west and east dining rooms, and looks like an exotic dive in 70s London Chinatown. Hullet House, 2A Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3988-0101. DRAGON-I — Watch the bold and the beautiful work the celeb-studded room. It’s usually packed with models, especially on Wednesday nights. UG/F, The Centrium, 60 Wyndham St., Central, 3110-1222. EXECUTIVE BAR — So quiet the sound of a ninja’s sword slicing through silk would be cause for shushing. Well, not really, but it is quiet, Japanese and well stocked with Scotch— the drink of the introspective man. 27/F, Bartlock Centre, 3 Yiu Wa St., Causeway Bay, 2893-2080. GRAPPA’S CELLAR — This bustling after-work spot features some of the city’s top jazz musicians. B/F, Jardine House, Connaught Place, Central, 2521-2322.

attention has been paid to the visual elements of the venue. 6/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 2810-6166. M BAR — Set against the heights of Hong Kong’s skyline, the Mandarin Oriental’s M Bar makes for a ravishingly chic hangout. Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4002. Martini BAR — This stylish hotel bar has nightly entertainment, a range of cocktails beyond just martinis and is one of the few cigar lounges in town. The Royal Garden, 69 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui East, 2733-2995.

MCSORLEY’S ALE HOUSE — Woody, Irish and vaguely Victorian, McSorley’s is the biggest pub in SoHo. 55 Elgin St., SoHo, 2522-2646. MO BAR — The bar at the Landmark Mandarin Oriental is a sleek, upscale addition to the nightlife scene. The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, Central, 2132-0077.

Jaa Bar

KEE CLUB — A good concierge should be able to get you into this exclusive members-only club, where you can sip a cocktail and check out the Picassos, antiques and colonial-style service. 6/F, 32 Wellington St., Central, 2810-9000. L’etage — With the feel of a true gentlemen’s club, this is a place for refined Hongkongers to sit back and relax with a traditionally made cocktail in one hand and a cigar in another. It’s worth coming back just to watch head bartender Katsuhisa Hirakawa hand-carve spheres of ice for whisky. 22/F, 525 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2522-5300. LE BOUDOIR — This Francophone hangout is all sultry drapes, chandeliers and velvet upholstery. The cocktails are stellar, too. B/F, 65 Wyndham St., Central, 2530-3870. LILY — VIPs are buzzed in and out of Lily’s fabulous secret room, the Blind Pig. The aesthetes amongst you will be delighted that so much 38 W H ERE H ONG KONG I j uly 2013

SUGAR — Sink into one of the sofas at this swanky rooftop bar and enjoy the amazing views of the harbor. 32/F, East Hotel, 29 Tai Koo Shing Rd., Tai Koo, 3968-3738.

Lion Rock — Lion Rock is the place to unwind and relax while having one (or more) of 193 signature cocktails. Enjoy the awesome view and weekly wine and whisky tastings. 3/F, Royal Plaza Hotel,193 Prince Edward Rd. West, Kowloon, 2622-6167.

Ozone — Located 118 floors above the ground, this watering hole boasts a superlative title: the highest bar in Hong Kong. This nightspot is a must-see, especially due to its drop-dead gorgeous lookout onto Victoria Harbour. 118/F, The Ritz-Carlton Hotel, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2263-2270.

Jaa Bar — Located in a small alleyway off of Peel Street, Jaa Bar combines comfort and charm for an exclusive experience. The centerpiece of the ornate enclave is a custom-made wooden bar pieced together from classical furniture pieces. 1 Pak Tsz Lane, Central, 2815-8887.

Staunton’s — Popularly considered the best “people-watching spot” in Hong Kong, Staunton’s has the right equation for a chill evening drink. It also has an eclectic menu. 10-12 Staunton St., Central, 2973-6611.

The Lawn

The Lawn — This outdoor garden is a genuine urban oasis, exuding a serene, intimate vibe and illuminated entirely by a few candles. 6/F, The Upper House, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 3968-1106. THE PAWN — The modern British restaurant and bar, a former pawn shop, has an outdoor balcony from which to enjoy a view of Hong Kong’s 100-year-old trams. 62 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2866-3444. The Tonno — This complex features a bar, a clubbing zone, a restaurant, a live music lounge and karaoke rooms, taking “allaround entertainment” to a whole new level. Head here for an epic marathon of dancing, drinking, Elton John hits, dart games and Shanghainese buns. 5 Tonnochy Rd., Wan Chai, 3125-3888.

Red Bar

RED BAR — Located on a terrace atop IFC Mall, this funky destination bar has a breathtaking public outdoor area with harbor views. 4/F, Two IFC, 8 Finance St., Central, 8129-8882. RIEDEL ROOM — The world’s first Riedel Room offers exclusive wines to be enjoyed in Riedel crystal glassware. JW Marriott Hotel, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2841-3836. Sake Bar Ginn — Sake sommelier Ayuchi Momose is behind this upper-floor bar. In addition to serving 100 types of sake and Japanese tapas, she also imports special sakes by microbreweries. Shop 4C, 4/F, Ho Lee Commercial Building, 38-44 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2536-4355. Salon de Ning — Decadent Shanghai art deco lounge with live music Mon-Sat. B/F, The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2696-6705. SHORE — A chill outdoor space and one of the most extensive drinks selection in town. Newly renovated. 3/F, L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2915-1638.

Vibes

VIBES — This is the Mira hotel’s svelte venue for drinks, with a stunning secret garden. 5/F, The Mira, 118 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-5999. VOLAR — Frequented by models and wannabes, Volar can be exclusive, but you can dance the night away to top DJs. B/F, 38-44 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2810-1510. WOOLOOMOOLOO — This steakhouse outlet boasts a gorgeous rooftop with stunning views of Victoria Harbour and the Happy Valley horse racing track. 31/F, The Hennessy, 256 Hennessy Rd., Wan Chai, 2893-6960.

ShopS+Services | The Guide

Diggin’ These Digits A new nail spa in Hong Kong lets customers enjoy a glass of bubbly while getting their manis done. By Lisa Huang

The Nail Library, a newly opened nail spa in Sheung Wan, encapsulates the vibe of this popular neighborhood perfectly. The spacious New York loft-style salon blends in happily with the cool cafes, trendy galleries, quirky boutiques and historic temples all found within the distinctive old-meets-new district. When owner Ping Lam relocated to Hong Kong from Macau, she found the city’s typical nail salon experience rushed and hectic, so she decided to open her own venture to fill a gap in the market. The Nail Library now prides itself on its distinctive take on the nail salon, by effectively creating a space where one can actually take the time to enjoy the experience. “[We want to] create a space where people can relax and get pampered, like you would at a spa,” says Susan, The Nail Library’s financial director. The pampering Susan refers to includes guests getting a glass of champagne, a cup of tea, or even a bowl of cookies as soon as they settle into one of the salon’s deep, comfy seats. A standard manicure ($280 and up) at The Nail Library includes soap, a hand scrub, a massage, an experience

that lasts up to 45 minutes. The designer manicure package ($330 and up) turns it up a notch by letting customers experience the same premium product brands used by celebrities like Lady Gaga, Sarah Jessica Parker and Kim Kardashian. For those looking for a more luxe experience, The Nail Library even carries diamond-immersed nail polish and a 24-carat gold flake nail polish. One can pair any mani or pedi with a hand or foot spa treatment. Beyond services, the space also boasts an impressive collection of niche beauty products available for sale. Upscale nail polish collections (with brands ranging from Deborah Lippman and Ciaté to the vegan-friendly Sparitual) and hand creams from Thai brand Pañpuri are all up for grabs, as are scented candles by Sandy Bay, a London-based brand. Need a break after a long day of shopping? Remember to drop by The Nail Library for a treat for your hands and feet. The Nail Library, G/F, 6 Po Hing Fong, Sheung Wan, 2803-2290.

Almost all goods, apart from certain types of alcohol and tobacco, are tax-free.

40 W HERE H ONG KONG I j uly 2013

ShopS+Services | The Guide Shopping Centers

Hot Stuff An international fashion retailer and a comfy spa are two of the city’s hottest new venues. By Kate Springer

APM — In the center of Kwun Tong, APM opens late (11am) but closes even later (2am). It boasts 150 shops, a cinema, more than 20 international restaurants and a convenient link to the MTR station. Millennium City 5, 418 Kwun Tong Rd., Kwun Tong, 2267-0500. ELEMENTS — Two floors and a million square feet of retail heaven beneath Hong Kong’s tallest building, the ICC, this luxury mall offers international cuisine and world-class shopping. Other features include a cinema, ice rink and enormous roof garden. 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2735-5234. HARBOUR CITY — This enormous stretch of shops runs along Canton Road for what seems like miles. Its four levels of shops, services and restaurants sprawl across over 2 million square feet. 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2118-8601.

Topshop The time has come. After stealing the hearts of fashion-hungry shoppers in more than 39 countries, Topshop finally touched down in Hong Kong with a 14,000-square-foot flagship store smack in the middle of Central. A highly anticipated addition to the lean spread of affordable-chic brands in Hong Kong, the British fashion giant claims to serve up more than 300 new pieces each week.

Find everything from jeans to makeup, as well as a casual hat and a shoe lounge. You may want to sharpen your elbows before taking the plunge, though—the two-story space is sure to be a popular spot in the coming months. Better yet, book an appointment with Topshop’s complimentary personal shopping service for undisturbed browsing. Asia Standard Tower, 56-65 Queen’s Rd. Central, www.topshop.com.

HYSAN PLACE — This brand-new mall is a great one-stop shopping destination, with over 120 stores (including hard-to-find Japanese brands) and tons of dining options. 500 Leighton Rd., Causeway Bay, 2886-7222. IFC MALL — This popular shopping center is home to more than 200 international high-end brands with Lane Crawford acting as an anchor. It also has a luxurious cinema, and some of the finest dining in the city. Easily accessible via MTR, Airport Express and Star Ferry. 8 Finance St., Central, 2295-3308. HORIZON PLAZA — It may not look promising but this is something of a mecca for bargain fashion, furniture and Chinese antiques. The industrial high-rise features Lane Crawford and Joyce outlets. Also look for homeware emporium Tequila Kola and antiques warehouse Shambala. 2 Lee Wing St., Ap Lei Chau. ISLAND BEVERLEY — Browse through closetsized boutiques offering the best of hip local designers. 1 Great George St., Causeway Bay. THE LANDMARK — The Landmark is a fashion mecca centered around a five-story atrium. Don’t miss iconic London department store Harvey Nichols. 12-16 Des Voeux Rd. Central, 2921-2199.

Iyara Stalwart spa favorite Iyara has opened a third location, this time bringing its pampering services to the lucky folks in the Mid-Levels. Head here for anything from mani-pedis to massages, and don’t miss the refreshing Dr. Murad facials. To greet summer with a fresh face, try the 60-minute Environmental Shield Vitamin C Infusion facial, which claims to leave winter-worn skin silky smooth and visibly brighter.

42 W HERE H ONG KONG I j uly 2013

The space is a bit more intimate than the bustling SoHo outlet, but it retains the friendly Thai charm that the brand is known for. Expect exotic lanterns hanging from the ceilings, plush brown seating, pretty latticed doorways, and dimly lit massage rooms. Though decked out in neutral tones, there are pops of color in a chair here or pillow there. 5 Prince’s Terrace, Mid-Levels, 2530-1666, www.iyarabeauty.com.

LANGHAM PLACE — Occupying about 600,000 square feet, Langham Place houses fashion and lifestyle stores and more than 20 restaurants. It’s within walking distance of the Ladies’ Market and Fa Yuen Street. 8 Argyle St., Mongkok, 3520-2800, www.langhamplace.com.hk. LEE GARDENS — Divided into Lee Gardens and Lee Gardens Two, this luxury mall is stuffed with high-end retailers such as Gucci, Hermes, Louis Vuitton and more. Lee Gardens Two has children’s fashion shops, and there are plenty of restaurants to choose from. 18 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, 2907-2166, www.leegardens.com.hk.

Tel: 2730 1251

ShopS+Services | The Guide Rise Shopping Arcade — A playground for hip, trendy and young fashionistas. 5-11 Granville Circuit, Tsim Sha Tsui. SPY Henry Lau — Edgy and bold fashion for men and women. 1/F, 5 Cleveland St., Causeway Bay, 2317-6928, www.spyhenrylau.com.

Harvey Nichols at Pacific Place

PACIFIC PLACE — One of the most popular malls in Hong Kong, Pacific Place has four floors of upscale shops and restaurants anchored by a massive Harvey Nichols. There’s also a nice range of eateries and a multi-screen cinema. 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2844-8988. PRINCE’S BUILDING — Part of the “Centers of Central” shopping hub, Prince’s Building is linked by covered walkway to The Landmark, Chater House, Alexandra House and The Galleria. A cozy mixture of the uberfashionable, the artistic and the maternal, it also houses the excellent Oliver’s supermarket. 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2921-2194. One Peking ROAD — Satisfy your thirst for designer wear with Dior, Fendi, Miu Miu and Cartier. 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui. TIMES SQUARE — One of Hong Kong’s largest malls, this 16-story complex contains more than 230 shops—including Lane Crawford, upscale Japanese supermarket City’super, Page One books and a cinema. 1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay, 2118-8900.

Vivienne Tam — Elegant, feminine contemporary dresses with a Chinese twist. Shop 209, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2918-0238. Walter Ma — Well-established designer offering luxury fashion. 33 Sharp St. East, Causeway Bay, 2838-7655. Western Market — An Edwardian-styled building with restaurants and shops selling Chinese crafts and fabrics. 323 Des Voeux Rd. Central, Sheung Wan.

Department Stores Harvey Nichols — The Hong Kong branch of London’s department store is a haven of international brands, with a good restaurant—the Fourth Floor—and a fabulous beauty department. The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3695-3388, www.harveynichols.com. JOYCE — Named after founder and Hong Kong’s first lady of fashion, Joyce Ma, this is the place for red-hot fashion and accessories, cult beauty brands and too-chic housewares. New World Tower, 18 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2810-1120; 334 Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2523-5944.

Shops, Boutiques and Local Designers

Blanc de Chine — Modern Chinese luxury clothing and accessories for women and men. The Landmark, 12-16 Des Voeux Rd. Central, 2104-7934, www.blancdechine.com.

G.O.D.

G.O.D. — Some “Goods of Desire” for those searching for the perfect couch or unique home accessories. G-1/F, 48 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2805-1876, www.god.com.hk. 44 W HERE H ONG KONG I j uly 2013

THE SWANK — Representing established designers as well as up-and-coming talents, The Swank has been one of the finest local fashion houses since 1955. It has 17 freestanding boutiques and points-of-sale in major department stores. Shop 103B, 1/F, Ocean Centre, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2735-0842.

Chinese Emporiums CHINESE ARTS AND CRAFTS — Stuffed with the best of Chinese crafts, from tablecloths to objets d’art to some incredible jade, this is one of the best places to stock up on gifts, porcelain, jewelry, cloth and fine antiques. 1/F, Star House, 3 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2735-4061. YUE HWA CHINESE EMPORIUM — Yue Hwa is a great place to pick up souvenirs and gifts, from acupuncture needles to Chinese Zodiac figurines. There is a good selection of cheongsams, tops and trousers tailored from quality silk. 143-161 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2739-3888.

Tailors DAVID FASHION — G/F, Shop 15, Empress Plaza, 17-19 Chatham Rd. South, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2368-6884.

ADOREÉ — Popular lingerie boutique selling fashionable, international brands. Rm 604, 6/F, Commerical House, 35 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3101-0188, www.adoree.com.hk. Amours Antiques — Antique jewelry and vintage clothes. 45 Staunton St., Central, 2803-7877.

The Swank

LA ELITE FASHION — G/F, 1H Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2368-0040. Lane Crawford

LANE CRAWFORD — This Hong Kong institution is almost as old as the city itself, and just as fashionable. It’s stacked with must-have designer brands as well as handbags, shoes, silver, linen, crystal and everything in between. 3/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2118-3388. SHANGHAI TANG — Shanghai Tang specializes in a funky fusion of traditional and contemporary Chinese design. You’ll find kitsch accessories, great housewares, fun T-shirts, fashion for men and women and incredibly beautiful bespoke cheongsams. The brand-new flagship is worth a visit. 1 Duddell St., Central, 2525-7333. SOGO — Japan’s most famous department store sits at one of the city’s busiest intersections. 555 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2833-8338.

L & K Custom Tailor — G/F, Mirador Mansion, 54-64 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2369-7278. Nita Fashion — G/F, 16 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2721-9990, www.nitafashions.com. Punjab House — 5/F, Suite C, Golden Crown Court, 66-70 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-6612, www.punjabhouse.com.hk. Raja Fashion — G/F, 34C Cameron Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-7624, www.raja-fashions.com. REGAL fashion — LG/F, Shop 8-9, Houston Centre, 63 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-6007. Sam’s Tailor — Shop K, Burlington Arcade, 92-94 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-9423. Shaniel Custom Tailor — G/F, Shop B & C, Comfort Building, 86-88A Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2730-1287.

Navigate | The Guide

Tourist Information HONG KONG TOURISM BOARD — The Hong Kong Tourism Board is ready to answer all your questions about travel in Hong Kong. Look for visitor centers at the following locations: Hong Kong International Airport (at Buffer Halls A and B, Arrivals Level, Terminal 1); Lo Wu (Arrival Hall, 2/F Lo Wu Terminal Building); Kowloon (Star Ferry Concourse, Tsim Sha Tsui, open daily 8am-8pm); and The Peak Piazza (between The Peak Tower and The Peak Galleria, Hong Kong Island, open daily 9am-9pm). You can also call their Visitor Hotline (2508-1234) from 9am to 6pm. Visit www.discoverhonghong.com for descriptions of attractions plus shopping, dining and touring tips. The website also has a comprehensive description of the month’s events and festivals as well as virtual tours, e-cards, a photo gallery and handy downloadable apps for your phone.

Get Moving

Octopus Cards

Hong Kong has a great public transportation system called the MTR, as well as highly punctual, carefully scheduled buses (with their routes clearly printed in English). Renting a car can be a headache because roads can be confusing and parking costly. It’s cheaper and easier to take a taxi, ferry, tram, bus, hotel limousine, or even a helicopter.

These are “wave-and-go” stored-value cards used across all of Hong Kong’s transportation systems, and in retail outlets like car parks and convenience stores.

Taxis Taxis are readily available at reasonable prices. Be aware that drivers cannot pick up or drop off on roads marked with double yellow lines, and no waiting is allowed except on unmarked roads. Red taxis serve Hong Kong Island and Kowloon and can go anywhere in the territory. Green taxis cost less but only serve the New Territories. Similarly, blue taxis serve Lantau Island only. Drivers generally speak some English but it is wise to get the hotel staff to write your destination in Chinese characters, or point to one of the destinations in this guide.

The size of a credit card, the Octopus is simply placed on the touch pads at the entrance to public transportation or the cash register in shops. Payment is automatically deducted. Cards can be refilled at MTR stations and any retail outlet that accepts them. Three types of Octopus cards are available. The “On Loan Octopus” costs $150, which includes a $50 deposit and $100 of stored value. The “Sold Octopus” costs $70, and does not include any stored value. The “Airport Express Tourist Octopus” costs $220/$300 and includes one/two single Airport Express journeys and three days of unlimited rides on the MTR, $20 stored value and a $50 deposit.

Trams have been a part of Hong Kong life for more than 100 years. With a $2.30 flat fare, they are still the cheapest way to get around.

46 W HERE H ONG KONG I j uly 2013

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A Rare Gem

Learn about old Hong Kong through the tomes offered by a one-in-a-kind rare books shop. By Leonie Xin Chao-Fong

If you’re looking to find a Hong Kong beyond the generic guidebook recommendations, why not pop by a rare books shop and pick up a real piece of history? Indosiam Rare Books is a few minutes’ walk from Sheung Wan’s Man Mo Temple, and was founded in 2003 by former teacher Yves Azemar. As Hong Kong’s first rare books shop, it specializes in hard-to-find books, prints, postcards and maps on Indochina, China, Southeast Asia and Hong Kong. Almost all of Azemar’s

Buses Hong Kong has two major bus companies: Kowloon Motor Bus — www.kmb.hk, 2745-4466. citybus / New World First BUS — www.nwfb.com.hk, 2136-8888.

Sights & Attractions

Avenue of Stars

AVENUE OF STARS — Fans of Hong Kong movies will find their heroes’ hand- and footprints permanently etched in concrete along the Avenue of the Stars, along with a statue of martial artist Bruce Lee. Go at 8pm for the nightly Symphony of Lights. Music plays over loudspeakers here and nowhere else, although the light display can be seen from around the city. Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront. BANK OF CHINA TOWER — I. M. Pei designed this 70-story building and bank headquarters to resemble stalks of bamboo. 1 Garden Rd., Central. BIG BUDDHA (大佛) — The world’s biggest Buddha of its kind took 10 years to build and sits on a lotus throne atop Lantau Island. The 48 W HERE H ONG KONG I j uly 2013

stock has been sourced from overseas, and the majority of books are either in English and French, so it’s an excellent reference point for historians, book collectors or anyone with an inkling of interest in the history of this ever-changing city. There are some serious gems in this beautiful and compact store, from academic texts, to autobiographical accounts from former colonial officials, to old communist propaganda posters, to intricate prints of Hong Kong society in the 1920s.

200+ steps to the top are open from 10am to 5:30pm daily and definitely recommended for the spectacular mountain views. Special admission tickets are available and include a vegetarian meal. Also check out the nearby Po Lin Monastery. Take the MTR to Tung Chung Station and then bus 23 to Ngong Ping. CHI LIN NUNNERY—An oasis of peace in the heart of Kowloon, this graceful, wooden Buddhist nunnery is the largest building in the world to be constructed using no nails—only wooden dowels and brackets. It’s a 33,000-square-meter complex whose architectural style dates back to the Tang Dynasty, although the buildings themselves were completed in 1998. It’s centered on a courtyard filled with lotus ponds. Vegetarian food is available. 5 Chi Lin Drive, Diamond Hill, 2354-1888. CONVENTION AND EXHIBITION CENTRE — Finished in time to host the handover ceremony in July 1997, the center’s roof was designed to look like a seagull’s wings in flight. 1 Expo Drive, Wan Chai, 2582-8888. HONG KONG DISNEYLAND—Take a trip back to the 1900s on Main Street, catch a train to Fantasyland, float down the Rivers of Adventure, catch a show or blast through outer space in Tomorrowland. When you’re done charting your exotic surroundings take a moment to dine, shop or cavort with the various Disney characters who roam the park. It’s easy to get to via MTR, bus or car. See the website for transportation details. Lantau Island, 1-830-830, park. hongkongdisneyland.com.

For a real taste of history, S.H. Peplow’s “Hong Kong About and Around” and Ellen Thorbecke’s “Hong Kong” are excellent starting points. Thorbecke’s work comes in its original dust jacket and is accompanied by exquisite sketches. “The Hong Kong Gift Book,” by John and Veronica Stericker, also serves as a good general introduction to the city. For a broader look at the history of China, take a look at The White Brothers’ “Romantic China” and Heinz V. Perckhammer’s “Peking.” “Romantic China” is a particularly rare work and highly sought after amongst collectors, and consists of the photographs and recollections of Herbert and Henry White, missionary brothers who became deeply interested in China in the early 20th century. Indosiam Rare Books, 1/F, 89 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2854-2853.

Hong Kong Dolphinwatch — Catch a glimpse of the pink dolphins, an animal so unique to these waters that it was named the official mascot of Hong Kong’s 1997 handover. Tours depart every Wed, Fri and Sun from the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Central at 8:30am, and the Kowloon Hotel in Tsim Tsa Tsui at 9am. The cruise takes up to three hours, and if no dolphins are seen, the company provides a free “go-again guarantee.” $320 for adults, $160 for children under 12 years, with proceeds going to dolphin research. Call 2984-1414 or visit www.hkdolphinwatch.com. HONG KONG ZOOLOGICAL AND BOTANICAL GARDENS — Home to eight endangered species, the zoo successfully breeds rare birds and orangutans. Established in 1864, the park retains all the Victorian accents from that era and is an idyllic spot in the middle of the city. Admission free. Open daily 6am7pm. Garden Rd., Central. A staircase from Upper Albert Rd. leads to the main entrance.

Man Mo Temple

MAN MO TEMPLE (文武廟) — This temple was built in 1847 to honor the God of Literature, Man Cheong, and the God of War, Mo Tai. A grade-1 historical building, it is one of biggest tourist attractions in Central.

G111, HARBOUR CITY, CANTON ROAD WWW.MSBSCAKERY.HK

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Ngong Ping 360

NGONG PING 360 — Home to a theater, teahouse, nature center, cultural themed village and more, Ngong Ping 360 is best known for its 5.7-kilometer cable-car service that offers panoramic views of Lantau Island’s lush valleys, the South China Sea and the world-famous Tian Tan Buddha. Take the MTR to Tung Chung Station and walk two minutes to the cable-car terminal. OPEN-TOP BUS TOUR — One Big Bus day tour ticket includes 24 hour hop-on-hop-off access to the red tour (Hong Kong Island) and the blue tour (Kowloon), as well as prerecorded commentary in eight languages and other perks. Unit 501, 5/F, No.1 Minden Avenue, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2723-2108.

Sam’s The Man (Just ask his customers)

Sam’s Tailor, Shop K, Burlington Arcade, 92-94 Nathan Road, Tsimshatsui, Kowloon. Tel: (852) 2367 9423 / 2721 8375 Fax: (852) 2311 8147

Peak Tram

PEAK TRAM AND VICTORIA PEAK — The world’s steepest funicular railway hauls passengers up Victoria Peak in approximately eight minutes. Once at the top, enjoy panoramic views of the city, or check out the restaurants, shops and various attractions at the Peak Galleria and Peak Tower. The tram runs daily 7am-midnight, tickets $25 one-way, $36 round trip. Bus No. 15C runs between Peak Tram lower terminus and Central, near the Star Ferry. It costs $4.20 for a single journey. Garden Road and Cotton Tree Drive, 2522-0922. SIK SIK YUEN WONG TAI SIN TEMPLE — This active Buddhist temple is large and colorful with beautiful adjoining gardens. Have your fortune told by palm readers in the main arcade. Open 7am-5:30pm. A small donation is expected. Follow signs from Wong Tai Sin MTR stop. 2328-0270.

Star Ferry

STAR FERRY (天星小輪) — Cross Victoria Harbour between Hong Kong Island and the Kowloon Peninsula on the Star Ferry. These open-deck ferries are one of Hong Kong’s most recognizable attractions and a common, cheap—and pleasant—form of transportation. Take the MTR to Central or Tsim Sha Tsui and follow the signs. ST. JOHN’S CATHEDRAL (聖約翰座堂) — A beautiful cathedral built in the shape of a cross. Open daily from 7am to 6pm for quiet prayer and meditation. Take the MTR to Central. 50 W HERE H ONG KONG I j uly 2013

TEN THOUSAND BUDDHAS MONASTERY — One of the most celebrated monasteries in Hong Kong, the Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery actually has more than 12,800 Buddhas stored in five temples, four pavilions and a nine-story pagoda. The one that you’re likely to remember best is the mummified Buddhist monk, who sits in splendor, coated in gold leaf, inside a glass case. Light meals are served at the on-site vegetarian restaurant. Sha Tin MTR, Exit B, 2691-1067, www.10kbuddhas.org. TAI O — This charming fishing village is a maze of stilt houses built over a creek on the very tip of Lantau Island. It’s a fascinating slice of old Hong Kong, with dried fish stalls, the picturesque Tin Hau Temple and a couple of interesting little museums. Take a ferry from Central.

Embassies & Consulates Argentina 2523-3208; Australia 2827-8881; Bangladesh 2827-4278; Belgium 2524-3111; Brazil 2525-7002; Canada 3719-4700; Chile 2827-1826; China (China Travel) 2853-3888; Columbia 2545-8547; Czech Republic 28022212; Egypt 2827-0668; Finland 2525-5385; France 3752-9900; Germany 2105-8788; Greece 2774-1682; India 2528-4028; Israel 2821-7500; Italy 2522-0033; Japan 2522-1184; Korea 2529-4141; Laos 2544-1186; Malaysia 2821-0800; Mexico 2511-3305; Netherlands 2522-5127; New Zealand 2525-5044; Pakistan 2827-1966; Philippines 2823-8500; Peru 2868-2622; Poland 2840-0779; Russia 2877-7188; Singapore 2527-2212; Spain 2525-3041; Sweden 2521-1212; Switzerland 2522-7147; Taiwan (Chung Hwa Travel Service) 2530-1187; Thailand 2521-6481; Turkey 2572-1331; United Arab Emirates 2866-1823; United Kingdom 2901-3000; USA 2523-9011; Venezuela 2730-8099; Vietnam 2591-4510.

Financial Matters Generally, business hours are weekdays 9am-5pm, with a lunch hour from 1pm-2pm, and Saturdays 9am-1pm. The local currency is the Hong Kong dollar. There is no central mint; instead, notes are issued by three separate private banks and the city’s Monetary Authority. The Hong Kong dollar is pegged to the US dollar at a rate of approximately US$1 to HK$7.79. Denominations include $10, $20, $50, $100, $500 and $1,000 notes. Coins come in denominations of 10, 20 and 50 cents, and one, two, five and 10 dollars. BANKS — Major banks are open weekdays 9am-4:30pm, and Saturdays 9am-12:30pm. Banks are closed Sundays and public holidays. Some services, such as foreign exchange-related transactions, are not available at banks one hour before closing. The following details are for the banks’ main offices, call for retail locations: Bank of America, Bank of America Tower, 12 Harcourt Rd., Central, 2847-5588; Citibank, Citibank Tower, 3 Garden Rd., Central, 2868-8888; HSBC, 29 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2233-3000; Standard Chartered Bank, 4 Des Voeux Rd. Central, 2868-2154.

Walking Tours | The Guide

A Stroll Through Time Walking through Sheung Wan and Central, discover two areas where the hustle and bustle of a modern city mingle with colorful, age-old traditions.

Start at the Sheung Wan MTR station. Take exit B, turn right and walk about three minutes.

Western Market An Edwardian-style building built in 1906, this grand building is now a historical monument full of themed shops, tailors and restaurants. Walk along Morrison Street and turn right into Wing Lok Street.

Walk back to Des Voeux Road West, turn right into Bonham Strand West and continue until you can turn right into Possession Street. Walk uphill along the sloping street and turn left into Hollywood Road. Turn left at Lok Ku Road, then right onto Upper Lascar Row.

Hollywood Road This thoroughfare is famous for its many curios and antiques shops.

SoHo

At the end of Wing Lok Street, turn left onto Des Voeux Road West.

Walk along Des Voeux Road West and turn left onto Ko Shing Street.

Ko Shing Street This is the wholesale center of Hong Kong’s thriving herbal medicine trade.

52 W HERE H ONG KONG I July 2013

Continue walking east along Hollywood Road to the Central Mid-Levels Escalator. Take the escalator up to Staunton Street and the SoHo area.

At 800 meters long, this is the world’s longest covered outdoor escalator.

This street is lined with specialty shops selling ginseng and bird’s nest.

Discover the surprising varieties of exotic dried seafood available on this street.

One of the first traditional-style temples in Hong Kong, this homage to the gods of war and literature was built during the colonial era. Open daily from 8am to 6pm.

Central Mid-Levels Escalator

Wing Lok Street

Des Voeux Road West

Man Mo Temple

Upper Lascar Row

Upper Lascar Row Also known as Cat Street, this alley is a shopper’s paradise lined with traditional street stalls. Walk back uphill to Hollywood Road, turn left and walk until you reach the Man Mo Temple.

You’ll find great food, coffee shops and funky bars in this lively dining district as well as boutiques and markets. Take the steps beside the escalator down to Hollywood Road, turn right and walk to the former Central Police Station Compound, former Central Magistracy and Victoria Prison Compound (not open to the public).

Former Central Police Station Compound This gray building with a Doric-style façade and columns was built in 1864.

Former Central Police Station Compound

Former Central Magistracy The structure has a majestic appearance, with imposing pillars and other features typical of Greek Revival style.

Victoria Prison Compound Built in 1841, Victoria Prison is believed to be the first western building constructed of durable material in Hong Kong. Walk east along Hollywood Road as it turns into Wyndham Street, and follow the signs to Lan Kwai Fong.

Lan Kwai Fong A buzzing center of clubs, bars and restaurants. A must for night owls and people-watchers. Walk up Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Aguilar Street, cross Wyndham Street and turn left onto Lower Albert Road. Follow the signs to Duddell Street.

Duddell Street Steps & Gas Lamps The lamps at the head and foot of the steps, built between 1875 and 1889, are the only four gas lamps remaining in Hong Kong.

For more Hong Kong walks visit www.discoverhongkong. com or call the HKTB hotline on 2508-1234.

July 2013 I WH ERE HON G KONG 53

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54 W HERE H ONG KONG I j uly 2013

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July 2013 I WH ERE HON G KONG 55

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銅鑼 Cau Bay 克道

道

謝斐

d ffe R

Empire

rriott

港灣徑 Dr Harbour

道老誌 d杜 yR

Police HQ

rsh Ma

道

灣仔 WAN CHAI 道史釗域 Rd Stewart

y 金鐘站 Harcourt Garden

夏愨

港灣道

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urt Rd

Harbour Rd 中環廣場灣仔政府大樓 Central Wan Chai Tower Plaza 稅務大樓入境事務大樓 Revenue Immigration Tower Tower

灣仔運動場 Wan Chai Sports Ground

n Ton

Harco

Renaissance Harbour View

林明道

Grand Hyatt

道 Rd g 鴻興 Hin g Hun

會議道

菲 Fleming Rd

Fenwick Pier St 香港演藝學院 HK Academy for Performing Arts

Cross H Tunnel 海

登龍 g Tan 羅 R

時代廣 Times Squar

里n 交加 ss L july 2013 I WHERE HON G KONG 57 Cro Rd d o o 跑馬地運動 W

30 Things we LOve about Hong Kong 5

1 Counting the Ten Thousand

9 Shaking fortune-telling

Buddhas at the eponymous hilltop monastery near Sha Tin.

bamboo sticks at the Wong Tai Sin Temple.

2 Dressing up for high tea at

!0 Saying hi to Bruce Lee at the Avenue of Stars, Tsim Sha Tsui.

The Peninsula. Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2696-6772.

3 Watching the sunset from tranquil Pui O Beach, Lantau Island.

!1 Shopping at Times Square, 1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay.

!2 Eating with the locals at a dai pai dong food stall. 4 Having our palms read at the Temple Street Night Market, Gough Street, Central. Yau Ma Tei. !3 Hiking along the beautiful Sai Kung peninsula. 5 Spotting endangered white dolphins with Dolphinwatch off !4 Riding the cable car over Lantau Island, 2984-1414. Lantau’s lush valleys to visit the Tian Tan Buddha (Big Buddha). 6 Seeing all your animated favorites come to life at Hong Lantau Island. Kong Disneyland. Lantau Island, !5 Haggling with hawkers for 1830-830. jade, gold and cheap jewelry at the Jade Market. Kansu and 7 Dining aboard the kitschy-cool Jumbo Floating Battery Streets, Yau Ma Tei. Restaurant. Shum Wan Pier !6 Slurping oysters for brunch at Drive, Wong Chuk Hang, Cafe Deco. 1-2/F, Peak Galleria, Aberdeen, 2553-9111. 118 Peak Rd., 2849-5111. 8 Cruising Victoria Harbour !7 Setting your watch by the on the Duk Ling, an authentic Noonday Gun. 221 Gloucester Chinese fishing junk, Rd., Causeway Bay. 2573-5282.

58 W HERE H ONG KONG I Ju LY 2013

!8 Snaking through the high-rises on the Mid-Levels Escalator—the longest in the world. Cochrane, Shelley and Peel Streets, Central.

@4 Enjoying free traditional kung fu demonstrations and cultural performances at Kowloon Park every Sunday from 2:30–4:30pm. Weather permitting.

!9 Meeting Pui Pui, our famous crocodile, at the eco-friendly Hong Kong Wetland Park. Tin Shui Wai, New Territories, 2708-8885.

@5 Taking a romantic trip from Central to Tsim Sha Tsui on the famous Star Ferry.

@0 Taking the Peak Tram to visit Hong Kong celebrities at Madame Tussauds. Shop P101, The Peak Tower, 128 Peak Rd., 2849-6966. @1 Exploring Lamma Island, then feasting on deep-fried squid at Rainbow Seafood. 23-35 First St., Sok Kwu Wan, Lamma Island, 2982-8100. @2 Marveling at the beautiful Chi Lin Nunnery, the world’s largest building to be constructed without nails. 5 Chi Lin Drive, Diamond Hill. @3 Taking the oldest ride in Hong Kong—a tram from Western (Sheung Wan) to Causeway Bay.

@6 Walking down the Historic Trail at the Museum of Coastal Defence, 2569-1500. @7 Drinking in the view at a panoramic watering hole like Eyebar. 30/F, iSquare, 63 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2487-3988. @8 Checking out the old Kowloon-Canton Railway Clock Tower. Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui. @9 Getting a shave and a trim at the Mandarin Barber. Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4088. #0 Bird watching at the Mai Po Marshes. Mai Po, 2526-4473.

Arch Angel Authenticated museum quality Asian antiquities. 53/55 Hollywood Road • Central • Hong Kong • Tel: (852) 2851 6848 • Fax: (852) 2851 6778 • Open Daily: 9:30-6:30 Email: antiques@ArchAngelAntiques.com.hk