WHERE Hong Kong - April 2015 by WHERE Hong Kong

Hong Kong

APRIL 2015 the complete guide to go®

Eat at a cha chaan teng Buy from local designers Explore Wan Chai

Take it to the Streets Street photography, Hong Kong-style

Welcome

歡迎

ようこそ

환영합니다

Bienvenida

Selamat Datang

Bienvenue

where Hong Kong 4.2015 ®

the guide

06 Hot Dates Hong Kong’s hottest concerts, shows and events

14 ESSENTIALS A quintessential Hong Kong experience

18 art + culture Top galleries and our pick of what’s happening

24 dining Your A-Z of the best eats in town

32 Drinks Our favorite places to sip cocktails

46 Walking Tour Explore a neighborhood on foot

48 Map Central By Joyce Yung

Also inside

features 10 Captured on Camera Four street photographers show us a different side of Hong Kong

18 For the love of art Three cool art exhibitions

24 A Local Experience Head to a cha chaan teng for an affordable meal

wheretraveler.com The website from the editors of Where Magazine.

42 NAVIGATE Fast facts and essential info 50 20 THINGS WE LOVE Hong Kong’s all-time top spots and best experiences

on the cover By Joyce Yung

34 Shops + services From mega malls to local designers

Hong Kong is a city of contrasts, beautifully depicted by photographer Joyce Yung’s photo of a graffiticovered back street in Causeway Bay. See more street photography in our cover story on p.10.

Get all the latest city buzz from our experts—info only the locals know.

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where

maga z ine

On the web: www.wherehongkong.com HK Magazine Media group HK | ADVERTISING & CIRCULATION director of sales Gary Wong Strategic Sales Director Jan Cheng Senior Sales Manager Joyce Wu Senior Advertising Manager Kent Ma Advertising Manager Dominic Lucien Brettell Advertising Executive Bonita Yung, Celia Wong, Harriette Cheung, Lamy Lam Advertising Coordinator Yan Man Marketing MANAGER James Gannaban Marketing & Circulation Executive Charmaine Mirandilla Accounts Services Executive Sharon Cheung IT SYSTEMS Manager Derek Wong

HK | EDITORIAL EDITOR-in-chief Luisa Tam Managing Editor Daniel Creffield EDITOR Adele Wong STAFF WRITERs Evelyn Lok, Charlotte Mulliner CONTRIBUTORs Kate Springer, Katie Kenny

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where

HONG KONG

Room 302, 3/F, Hollywood Centre, 233 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, Hong Kong Phone: 2850-5065 Fax: 2543-1880 Published by where Hong Kong Publishing Ltd., Printed by Apex Print Limited, 11-13 Dai Kwai Street, Tai Po Industrial Estate, Tai Po, New Territories. where makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited. where is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications-Where Magazine. ®

Before you decide to purchase or use the products and/or services that our magazine introduces, you should gather further information about the same in addition to the representations or advertising contents in our magazine. *The contents in articles by guest authors are the author’s personal views only and do not represent the position of our magazine or our company. Please gather further information about the products and/ or services before you decide to purchase or use the same.*

Painted Pottery Fat Lady Figure Tang Dynasty

early pottery ceramics sculptures authenticated museum and collector quality

hot dates Hong Kong By Evelyn Lok

Through April 26 Join the Circus Created in Montreal in 2003 by Cirque du Soleil co-founder Norman Latourelle, “Cavalia” coincides with the Jockey Club’s 130th anniversary this year to bring its signature mix of stunning aerial acrobatics and equestrian stunts to the SAR. They’re really not horsing around: 50 horses will be

April 19

On a High Note The South Korean alternative Hip Hop threesome Epik High are coming to town this month. Consisting of lyrical genius Mithra Jin, bilingual rapper Tablo and DJ Tukutz, the group has risen to fame for their fast-flowing rhymes and meaningful lyrics. Their sound has continued to mature ever since getting signed by major label YG Entertainment in 2012, maintaining a balance between chart-topping hits and darker, more thoughtful material— don’t miss their latest single “Born Haters.” 8pm. Rotunda Hall 3, 6/F, KITEC, 1 Trademart Drive, Kowloon Bay. $980-1380 from www.cityline.com.

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performing with a range of artists against a 60-metre-wide multimedia backdrop, staged under the largest touring tent in the world. Various dates and times. The New Central Harbourfront, Central, $395-1,195 from www.hkticketing.com; VIP packages with after-show stable visits available from $1,495.

hot dates

Y Y

April 16 Onwards

Drama King Following a successful debut run last year, the homegrown arts festival Shakespeare in the Port is back, bringing affordable, down-toearth adaptations of the bard’s works in the open air space at Cyberport. Featuring all-local talent, it will be a multi-lingual event this year: highlights include a bilingual production of “A Midsummer Night’s Dream” and a Cantonese version of “The Tempest.” For more Bardolatry, check in for a 24-hour play that showcases new writing plus an outdoor film screening. Check the program online for more. Apr 16-May 3, various times. Cyberport Podium, 100 Cyberport Rd., Pok Fu Lam, $150-300 from www.ticketflap.com.

Through April 26 Courtesy Chang Chien-Chi, Magnum Photos, Chi-Wen Gallery

Through April 6

The Film Buffs Descend With over 260 screenings spaced out across just over a fortnight, the 39th Hong Kong International Film Festival is the most exciting film event of the year. This year, the festival opens with the latest from venerable filmmaker Sylvia Chang: “Murmur of the Heart.” The festival rounds off with Cantopop star Aaron Kwok’s most recent return to the screen in brooding police drama “Port of Call.” Various screenings. See hkiff.org.hk for the full program.

Moving Stories Following several yearly “nomadic” exhibitions held by the West Kowloon Cultural District, this year the bureau is presenting a comprehensive “Moving Images”—a thematic film program and exhibitions showcasing a collection of moving images. Over 32 films explore different meanings of the word “moving” with an array of poignant social topics, such as through Stanley Kwan’s “Full Moon in New York” (Apr 4), about three Chinese women who meet after moving to New York. Log onto www.westkowloon.hk/en/ movingimages to see the full program.

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hot dates Hong Kong April 3-4

April 16-25

April 16-19

All That Jazz

Shakespeare Revamped

Art of Darkness

Hot off their European tour, the HK Philharmonic returns with legendary jazz trumpeter James Morrison and a host of Hong Kong’s best jazzmen—including stalwart Eugene Pao on the guitar. Want to hang out with the musicians after the show? Post-concert parties are taking place at the Cultural Centre’s Deli & Wine café. Tickets for the parties ($80) will be on sale before each concert at the foyer’s cash bar.

Something wicked this way comes: Sweet and Sour Productions presents Shakespeare’s classic, “Macbeth,” but it won’t be all neck frills and old-fashioned costumes. With a cast of six local actors, the production will take an updated approach influenced by Hitchcock and film noir.

Local charity arts organization Dialogue Experience is staging its fifth “Concert in the Dark” experience to spread awareness and emphathy for the visually impaired. Two dozen of Hong Kong’s most iconic stars and rising indie talents in music will be performing in pitch black, with gigs following a briefing and special entrance into the venue led by a visually impaired team. Net proceeds will go to the Dialogue in the Dark Foundation.

7:30pm. Fringe Club, 2 Lower Albert Rd., Central, 2521-7251, $250 from the Fringe Club.

9pm. Concert Hall, Cultural Centre, 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, $200-380 from www.urbtix.hk.

April 25

Various times. Star Hall, 3/F, KITEC, 1 Trademart Drive, Kowloon Bay, $480-1,500 from www.hkticketing.com.

April 22-23 Backstreet’s Back Get your dose of 90s throwback with Backstreet Boys’ Nick, Kevin, A.J., Howie and Brian for their two-night concert in April. Backstreet’s back, alright! 8pm. Star Hall, KITEC, 1 Trademart Drive, Kowloon Bay, $888-988 from www.hkticketing.com.

Indie Music is in Fashion Fashion brand Agnès b. is bringing back Rue De Marseille Live, a series of monthly gigs set up to encourage the local indie music scene. Taking place at its retail space at K11 mall, April’s gig features the guitar-swinging 90s-inspired group Teenage Riot and singersongwriter Subyub Lee. 4pm. Agnès B. Rue De Marseille, Shop G26, G28, 117-120, K11, 18 Hanoi Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3122-4282, Free.

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W W W. S E V V A . H K

Captured on Camera Four street photographers, four views of Hong Kong. By Adele Wong

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The Historian

Alan Pang might have a business degree under his belt, but his true passion lies in street photography. The Hong Kong born and bred native sees himself as a historian of sorts, fighting to document Hong Kong’s disappearing relics since 2012. “Hong Kong is changing so fast—you see that the heritage keeps disappearing,” Pang says. “What Hong Kong people see as important, the government does not. And I think I have a voice on that front.” But not all of Pang’s work is so serious in nature. In fact, he is particularly talented at turning an everyday moment into an extraordinary picture. Construction workers paving a road, a bored kid looking through a window, chefs getting busy at a restaurant kitchen—Pang manages to bring these otherwise mundane events to life through his camerawork and editing skills. “People call my type of photography street photography, but there’s lot of debate about what street photography is,” he says. “It is a mixed genre, it’s scenery, portraiture, anything. It’s more like a personal experience of how you interact with the city.” “I like seeing people and getting to know more about people,” Pang explains. “I’ve witnessed lots of tender scenes, for example, of moms taking care of their kids. I think people are usually not focused on that kind of thing. They just look at what’s pretty. “It’s my passion, it’s what I love. I want to explore and see if I can be good at it.” His admirers—in the form of numerous online commenters on his blog—certainly think so. His photography has garnered him plenty of industry attention, and he recently was invited to exhibit his work at K11 mall in Tsim Sha Tsui. As to how he’s able to seize the moment: “It’s more like trial and error. Sometimes things happen really fast and I’m just fortunate I was ready to shoot. And sometimes it’s more like an artsy type of thing: maybe I’ll see a pattern or some simple light and shadow and I can take my time and do it however I want.”

From top: 1. The Hong Kong subway scene

2. Cheung Chau Bun Festival

3. Mother and child at the beach All by Alan Pang

See more of Alan Pang’s work on alanala.wordpress.com.

From top left: 1. Fortune teller By Xyza Cruz Bacani 2. Quarry Bay housing estate By Joyce Yung

3. View from International Commerce Centre By Alan Pang 4. Street labor By Kirk Kenny

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The Social Commenter The Mover and Shaker

Canadian native Kirk Kenny grew up in Saskatoon, Central Canada. He moved to mainland China 15 years ago, where he was able to pick up the language and leverage his newfound skills to host a Putonghua-learning TV show. Ever the multitasker, Kenny also published several educational books, started his own English tutorial school, and acted as foreign correspondent for Canadian media company CBC throughout the years. Eventually, Kenny made his way to Hong Kong. “I think Hong Kong is special,” he says. “I felt at home right away. I got a lot out of China but in Hong Kong, I just never felt like an outsider.” Kenny currently works in branding— although true to his jack-of-all-trades personality, he is also a star photographer on the side. Late last year, soon after civil disobedience movement Occupy Central brought the city’s streets to a halt, Kenny and a colleague created a “People of Hong Kong” Facebook page to document some of Hong Kong’s most passionate citizens and their thoughts. Despite the timing, the scope of the project was beyond the political: Kenny wanted to paint a general landscape of Hong Kong through the lens of its people—from university students to doting couples to retirees. He was able to talk to

Joyce Yung moved from New York City back to her hometown, Hong Kong, for work—but she’s also since done a career 180, switching from a risk management professional to a fulltime photographer. These days, Yung and her husband own and run a multimedia company that boasts a number of film and photography projects on its resume. Yung also has a studio in Causeway Bay, where she hosts events and teaches photography classes. “I am definitely more interested in shooting people, portraits,” Yung says, although her vibrant cityscape photos are equally impressive. “Generally my photos are fairly colorful,” she explains. “I don’t treat them to black and white— I only do in certain cases when I feel like that evokes more emotion.” To Yung, movement is everything. “I like very natural emotions and movement. There are two types of movement: you can either freeze the action, or you can show the action via slower shutter speed and blurred action within the still frame.” Nevertheless, the city itself is enough of an inspiration. “Hong kong is energetic and vibrant, which is great for someone like me who likes to shoot action and things happening in color,” she says.

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many fascinating individuals and turn those discussions into memorable portraits that captured the specific mood of the time. Regardless of the topic, Kenny’s portfolio of commercial and personal projects are vivid and almost ethereal in feeling. Whether the setting is on a packed street, in a public park, or down a back alley, his subjects tend to stand out through the hazy background, their facial features either distinctly in focus or completely obscured. “I don’t recall a moment where I made a conscious choice [to be a photographer],” Kenny says, but he hasn’t turned back since. He doesn’t believe in fancy gadgets, because to him it’s all about the photographer. “You can put a phone camera in a good photographer’s hands and they’d be able to do something nice with it,” he explains. And what does a good photographer see in Hong Kong? “Hong Kong’s got just enough grit, enough edge to be interesting. You can walk around Yau Ma Tei and see some fortune teller or some guys drinking beer and singing karaoke at 2pm in the afternoon. It’s surprisingly diverse.” See more of Kirk Kenny’s photos at www.studiozag.com.

As to what makes Hong Kong stand out, from a photographer’s point of view: “Because it’s so geographically close and dense, you can find quite a lot of subject matter within a few blocks,” she explains. “So say, in Sheung Wan, there’s always a new versus old contrast. Here you get a new building next to a tong lau [old tenement building] that’s unique to Hong Kong. It’s all there.” See more of Joyce Yung’s work at www.joyceyung.com.

Lines and patterns at the International Finance Centre By Kirk Kenny

Wet market in Central By Joyce Yung

The Human Rights Crusader

Born and raised in the Philippines, Xyza Cruz Bacani followed in her mother’s footsteps and came to Hong Kong as a domestic helper nine years ago. The mother-daughter pair worked harmoniously for the same household until Bacani decided recently to change her line of work altogether. Nowadays, the 28-year-old is busy winning international awards and showcasing her poignant street photography at exhibitions across the city. Ever since Bacani started taking enlightened snaps in her host city and posting them online— while she was still on a six-day work week running errands, cleaning the house, and taking care of her employer’s grandchildren—people have been taking notice. Earlier this year, Bacani won a Magnum Foundation Human Rights fellowship to a six-week photography course at New York University. She was also a finalist at the Hamdan International Photography Awards held in Dubai. Bacani takes many of her photos in black and white, most of them featuring human subjects who give an added layer of depth to the structural narrative. She’s especially adept at creating a noble, solemn mood to her photos, whether they’re taken in broad daylight or the dead of night. “I don’t know how to explain photography, honestly. I just walk around and shoot, then after that I forget about it,” Bacani says. “I don’t have any emotional attachment to my street photos. I just love walking around and shooting people. There is no deep meaning behind it.” She does,

however, know how to explain the secret to her success as a photographer. “It’s more about discipline. I shoot daily. No matter what, I will shoot daily. It’s a must, it’s a need. If I don’t shoot, I’m very grumpy.” Although she’s now an internationally known figure, Bacani isn’t taking her fame lightly. Besides her casual street photography, she is also working hard on a photo documentary called “900 Square Feet of Hidden Hope” to tell the story of her fellow domestic helpers who have been abused by their employers. “I want to tell people that it’s not OK to do this to your helpers. They’re humans too,” she explains. “I want to make it global. I want to go to places with domestic helpers and immigrants and shoot their photos and tell their stories.”

Clock tower, Tsim Sha Tsui By Xyza Cruz Bacani

See Xyza Cruz Bacani’s work at www.xyzacruzbacani.com. A P R I L 2 015 I WHERE H ONG KONG 13

Essentials | The Guide

Keeping You

On Your Toes

Put your feet up at these spas and massage parlors for the quintessential Hong Kong experience.

Pure Massage

Gao’s Foot Massage If traditional Chinese massage methods are what you’re after, Gao’s prides itself on old-school treatments deeply rooted in the art of acupressure. Holding court in Lan Kwai Fong since 2003, the massage spot has since branched out to Mid-Levels. Both locations provide relaxing environments where your massage is accompanied by the sound of birdsong in the background, as well as a cup of calming rose tea. The venues are open daily from 10am until midnight: perfect for a pick-me-up after a hard day of work or shopping. 15/F, Century Square, 1-13 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2810-9219; G-M/F, 7 Caine Rd., Central, 2858-0091, www.gaosfootlankwaifong.com.

Pure Massage

Halite This foot spa uses Halite—the scientific name for rock salt—as its namesake. Aptly so, as each of its shops is decorated with Himalayan crystal salt lamps, which not only create soft and soothing lighting, but also supposedly act as a natural air ionizer and purifier, clearing out pollution and dust in the air. Whether you believe it or not, you can’t deny the relaxation you’ll feel during your 45-minute foot massage and crystal salt rub treatment. Unit A&B, 24/F, Guangdong Tours Centre, 18 Pennington St., Causeway Bay, 2890-6820, www.halitehk.com.

Happy Foot Having started as a small reflexology spa in Happy Valley, Happy Foot has since expanded to three more locations on the island. Treat yourself to a hot tea footbath 14 W H E R E HONG KONG I A P R I L 2 015

Ten Feet Tall

and a foot massage that is bound to put you into a blissful state, and leave your feet feeling happy. 11/F, Lyndhurst Tower, 1 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, 2521-0066, www.happyfoot.hk.

Hava Massage Too tired to go get a massage? Have the masseuse come to you! Each therapist at Hava Massage has over six years of experience in the business. The knowledgeable masseuses will give you the treatment of your choice in the comfort of your serviced apartment or hotel room. Aside from a long list of body massage services and facials, they also provide foot reflexology services. It’s $480 for one hour, per person. You just need to have the towels ready. 2620-0860, www.havamassage.com.hk.

Essentials Ten Feet Tall Ten Feet Tall is the brainchild of Dragon-i founder Gilbert Yeung. Focusing on quality foot massages in luxurious surroundings, this 8,000-square-foot space gives off an airy holiday vibe with its white and bleached wood furnishings. The treatment menu is pretty straightforward: in addition to foot massages ($288 for 50 minutes), there’s also a range of body massages. Fancy a quick rub-down on your lunch break? Ten Foot Tall provides meals from the Dragon-i kitchen along with a 50-minute massage from noon to 3pm, starting from $328.

Health Touch Seat yourself in Health Touch’s comfy armchairs and girly floral surrounds, and you’ll be transported to the simple comforts of a countryside cottage away from the busy city. Health Touch offers a range of full-body massages, as well as a 50-minute ($198) foot massage that includes an aromatherapy foot bath. 1/F, Grand View Commercial Building, 29-31 Sugar St., Causeway Bay, 2882-3433, www.hkhealthtouch.com.

20-21/F, L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2971-1010, www.tenfeettall.com.hk.

Zen Spa Zen provides a whole range of treatments, many of which incorporate Thai aromatherapy. Treat yourself to a 50-minute foot rub (only $158) and rose aromatherapy foot bath in the heart of Tsim Sha Tsui— perfect after a day of shopping at Harbour City. Kick back and relax with a steaming cup of floral tea. 2/F, 53 Hankow Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2988-1112, www.zenspa.com.hk.

Bliss Spa On the 72nd floor of the W Hotel, Bliss Spa has a spectacular view of the harbor. Walk in, and it’s all big, bright windows and funky decor. There are nine treatment rooms, including the VIP suites, steam rooms, saunas and a vitality pool to dip into before or after your treatment. Full body massages and facials are big here, but don’t miss the Pedi-Colada: a tropical foot treatment that includes a pineapple and coconut oil-infused milk soak, a sugar scrub and a hot stone massage, all while you sip on a virgin piña colada. 72/F, W Hotel, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 3717-2797.

Tai Pan Reflexology Beauty & Foot Spa Rather than sitting up during your foot massage, Tai Pan is equipped with full-recline massage chairs so you can lie flat as you’re treated to either a head and shoulder massage, or a blissful foot rub. Tai Pan is also known for its relaxed atmosphere: after your treatment, you’re encouraged to lie around some more and relax for as long as you like. B/F, Tsim Sha Tsui Mansion, 83 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2301-1990, www.taipanreflexologist.com.hk.

Pure Massage Ultra-clean and private, Pure Massage’s numerous venues are a hit with those in the know thanks to the superbly skilled reflexology masters, all of whom have been hand-picked by the big boss of the company himself. At $174 for 45 minutes, it’s well worth it for a treat. There are 10 branches located around town, so check the website for the one nearest to you. Shop G11, G/F, Kornhill Plaza, 1 Kornhill Rd., Quarry Bay, 2323-2124, www.puremassage.com.hk.

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where

the guide An Egg-cellent Option Still looking for accommodation? Stay at the Grand Hyatt Hong Kong in Wan Chai over Easter weekend, and you get a 15 percent discount on the daily rate, as well as free buffet breakfast or a spending stipend of $500 per day. Throughout the long weekend, there will also be various promotions at the hotelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s F&B outlets. For example, poolside restaurant The Grill (pictured) will offer a colorful brunch spread of seafood and chargrilled treats on Easter Sunday. For something indulgent, The Plateau Spa has a $1,500 treatment package that includes body massage and facial mask. Sounds like an eggs-traordinary deal to us! Grand Hyatt Hong Kong, 1 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, 2584-7038, reservations.hkggh@hyatt.com.

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Art+culture | The Guide

For the Love of Art Three cool exhibitions. By Evelyn Lok

A Kid at Heart Home Journal What transformed the humble fishing town of Hong Kong into the Asian financial hub we know today? The Maritime Museum presents “Made in Hong Kong: Our Cities, Our Stories”—one impressive multimedia exhibition that combines a huge amount of artifacts, interviews, photography, film and music so we can engage in our city’s history, revisiting the successes and pivotal moments that brought about our home. Through Sep 4. Hong Kong Maritime Museum, Central Ferry Pier No. 8, Man Kwong St., Central, www.hkmaritimemuseum.org, 3713-2500. Free.

A household name of the contemporary Asian art world, Yoshitomo Nara will be exhibiting his first-ever major show in Hong Kong at Asia Society this month. Titled “Life is Only One,” it refers to one of his paintings of the same name. It’s a declaration and a chance for you to glimpse into the inner world of the elusive artist, recognized for his cartoonish pop art characters of innocent-looking children, often brandishing small weapons or speaking provocative phrases. In fact, it’s a Yoshitomo double whammy in the SAR this month: check out his other show, “Stars,” being held at Pace Gallery. “Stars,” through Apr 25. Pace Gallery Hong Kong, 15C Entertainment Building, 30 Queen’s Rd. Central. “Life is Only One,” through July. Chantal Miller Gallery, Asia Society, 9 Justice Drive, Admiralty, www.asiasociety.org. Free.

Asian Invasion Organized by art collector publication Orientations, the second Asian Art Hong Kong is a week-long artistic bonanza celebrating the rich history of Asian art, from antiques to contemporary works. There’ll be a string of guided tours, special exhibitions and talks by distinguished guests across 19 participating galleries in town—for instance, the Vice Director of the Sichuan Museum will prime the public on the works of Zhang Daqian and facsimiles of works from the Dunhuang caves. Whether you’re a seasoned connoisseur or merely curious about Asian art, you won’t want to miss out. Apr 2-11. See the full program at www.asianarthk.com.

You’ll find some of the best art and antiques galleries in town along Hong Kong Island’s Hollywood Road.

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Art+culture Art GALLERIES AO Vertical Art Space — Launched in 2012, AO Vertical Art Space is the city’s first vertical flow gallery, which exhibits works in a spiraling stairwell from 13/F to 3/F. It mainly showcases photography works, such as by renowned Hong Kong streetscape photographer Ho Fan. 3-13/F, Asia One Tower, 8 Fung Yip St., Chai Wan, 2976-0913. Above Second — Opened since 2010, Above Second adds a slice of urban attitude to the city’s vibrant art scene by showing work from art schools or the streets. With a non-stop lineup of international artists in residence, you’ll see everything from graffiti to graphic design, pop culture to street art here. 9 First St., Sai Ying Pun 3483-7950.

acts as a platform to foster artist growth over the long term. Represented artists include immersive installation creator Nadim Abbas, video artist Silas Fong, photographer Chen Wei, and more. 3/F, Blue Box Factory Building, 25 Hing Wo St., Aberdeen, 2541-1299. Gallery Psypedia — Founded in 2013 by artist and ex-psychiatric nurse Jessie Leung, and psychiatrist-slash-part-time-photographer Dr. Steve Tso, Gallery Psypedia was established to promote and explore the relationships between art, creativity, mental illness and the human experience. Unit L607, Jockey Club Creative Arts Centre, 30 Pak Tin St., Shek Kip Mei, 5546-1640.

Arch Angel Art Gallery — Arch Angel Art Gallery features a collection of contemporary Vietnamese and Southeast Asian paintings acquired directly from the artists. Some of the paintings are from founder Koos Groot’s private collection. Shop C, LG/F, 53-55 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2851-6882. Grotto Fine Art

Grotto Fine Art — Curated by Henry Au-yeung, a specialist in 20th-century Chinese art history, this gallery exclusively represents Chinese artists, with a particular interest in new and avant-garde art forms. It’s particularly good if you want to check out leading work by local artists. 31C-D, 2/F, Wyndham St., Central, 2121-2270.

Axel Vervoordt Gallery

Axel Vervoordt Gallery — Initially dedicated to representing artists working in the Zero and Gutai art movements of the 20th century, the Antwerp-based Axel Vervoordt Gallery opened its first Asian outpost in Hong Kong in 2014. The gallery aims to further the artistic dialogue between the East and West. Unit D, 15/F, Entertainment Building, 30 Queen’s Rd. Central, 25032220/2503-2331.

Hanart TZ Gallery — One of the oldest galleries in Hong Kong, Hanart TZ celebrated its 30th anniversary in 2014 with a string of exhibitions by leading contemporary Chinese artists. As specialists in the genre, Hanart exhibits works in oil, ink, print, sculpture, photography and video by internationally recognized mainland, Taiwanese and Hong Kong artists. Room 407, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2526-9019.

La Galerie

La Galerie — First opened in winter 2014, La Galerie was founded by two avid lovers of art photography, Cyril Delettre and Marie-Florence Gros. The gallery focuses on bringing high-quality art photography to Hong Kong. Its first two exhibitions saw the work of French photographer Vincent Fournier and prints and photographs of Picasso adorn its walls. 74 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2540-4777. Leo Gallery Hong Kong — Hailing from Shanghai, Leo Gallery joined the SAR gallery scene with its Hong Kong outpost in Sheung Wan just in time for the 2015 Art Basel timetable in March. It represents a slew of Chinese contemporary artists and international artists based in China. 189 Queen’s Rd. West, Sheung Wan, 2803-2333. Simon Lee Gallery — The Hong Kong outpost of the reputable London gallery opened its doors in 2012. The gallery focuses on internationally acclaimed artists who explore conceptual themes through a range of medium, from photography to sculpture to works on canvas. 304, 3/F, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2801-6252. Sundaram Tagore Gallery — Sitting squarely in SoHo, it’s perhaps one of the most prominent international galleries in Hong Kong. Many notable artists from the gallery’s Beverly Hills and New York branches exhibit in Hong Kong as well, including Edward Burtynsky, Kim Joon and Lee Waisler. 57-59 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2581-9672.

Edouard Malingue Gallery — French art dealer Édouard Malingue’s gallery opened in 2010, and has since moved to a larger and brighter space on Des Voeux Road Central. EM mainly shows a wide range of international contemporary art, but also represents several Hong Kong-based artists such as Ko Sin Tung and João Vasco Paiva. 6/F, 33 Des Voeux Rd. Central, 2810-0317. Erarta Gallery — Opened November 2014, Erarta Gallery Hong Kong is the fifth branch of the global purveyor of Russian contemporary arts, and the very first branch of the gallery group in Asia. Its massive two-story, 300-square-metre space provides ample opportunity to showcase the more than 150 represented artists from across 30 regions of Russia. 159 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2685-5199. Gallery Exit — Established in 2008 and representing contemporary works from international and local figures, Gallery Exit

Gallery Psypedia A P R I L 2 015 I WHERE H ONG KONG 19

Art+culture | The Guide The Empty Gallery — Joining Hong Kong’s art scene in 2015 is The Empty Gallery. Founded by art lover and patron Stephen Cheng, the 3,000-square-foot space is located in Aberdeen and was designed with zen sensibilities in mind: the whole gallery is decorated a minimalist black, aimed at hosting various visual arts, music, dance and performance art by artists from across the globe. 19/F, Grand Marine Center, 3 Yue Fung St., Aberdeen. The Popsy Room — Jennifer Chung, the founder of this unique art space, firmly believes that art should be experienced through all our senses. Hence all exhibitions, featuring local and international artists, cater to vision, sound, smell, and particularly taste: coinciding with the exhibitions is an art-food pairing menu every two months, which patrons can book for a private dining experience. G/F, 30 Upper Lascar Row, Sheung Wan, 2234-6711. Toof Contemporary/Artichoke Canteen — The only gallery in Ap Lei Chau listed under the South Island Cultural District is Toof Contemporary, a space which showcases thought-provoking contemporary art in all media from across the globe, with a particular focus on Brazilian and wider Latin American artists. The gallery also shares a space with the restobar Artichoke Canteen. Unit 311, 3/F, Harbour Industrial Centre, 10 Lee Hing St., Ap Lei Chau, 2580-0393. Yallay Gallery — Yallay Gallery opened in early 2013 in Wong Chuk Hang. While much of the local art scene was fascinated in the mid-noughties with the first generation of contemporary Chinese artists, Yallay’s founder Jean Marc Decrop decided instead to go off the beaten path in search of talent from Indonesia, South Asia and the Middle East. It is one of the first galleries in Asia to showcase Arab, Iranian and Turkish contemporary art. Unit 3C, Yally Building, 6 Yip Fat St., Wong Chuk Hang, 3575-9417.

MUSEUMS

F11 Photographic Museum

F11 Photographic Museum — This museum, housed in a three-story restored Art Deco building, is dedicated purely to the art of photography. Following a strong debut in 2014 featuring world-renowned work by Elliot Erwitt, the museum aims to show pivotal works from international and regional greats and up-and-coming photographers. Appointment essential, and includes a free docent-guided tour. 11 Yuk Sau St., Happy Valley, 6516-1122. Flagstaff House Museum of Teaware — Located in Flagstaff House, the oldest surviving 20 W H E R E HONG KONG I A P R I L 2 015

Liang Yi Museum

colonial building in the territory, and once the home of the commander-in-chief of British forces in Hong Kong, the museum houses a prized Asian teaware collection. It’s also home to Lock Cha Tea House, which serves myriad varieties of tea and delicate vegetarian dim sum in a cute Chinese-style setting. Hong Kong Park, 10 Cotton Tree Drive, Central, 2869-0690.

Hong Kong Film Archive

Hong Kong Film Archive — A repository of all things related to Hong Kong films, the Archive contains lots of movies, conservation labs, a resource center, exhibition hall and a cinema. Closed Thursdays. 1/F, 50 Lei King Rd., Sai Wan Ho, 2739-2139. Hong Kong Maritime Museum — This museum holds semi-permanent and special exhibitions tracing Hong Kong’s growth into a major world port, and the contributions made by China and the West to the development of ships, maritime exploration, trade and naval warfare. Central Ferry Pier No. 8, Man Kwong St., Central, 3713-2500. Hong Kong Museum of Art — One of the city’s largest museums houses fine examples of ancient Chinese art from the Han to the Qing dynasties and regularly showcases contemporary and international works. Closed Thursdays. 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2724-9042. Hong Kong Railway Museum — This small, picturesque museum is dedicated to the history of Hong Kong’s railway system. It’s situated in a former train station, a charming 1913 building with a traditional tiled roof now declared a

historical monument. The permanent exhibition includes photographs, old coaches, samples of tracks and a full-sized model of an electric train compartment. Closed Tuesdays. Tai Po Market, 13 Shung Tak St., Tai Po, 2653-3455. Law Uk Folk Museum — Law Uk, which means ‘Law’s House’ after its original owner, is an 18th-century Qing-dynasty Hakka village house, complete with furnishings and artifacts. Free admission. Closed Thursdays. 14 Kut Shing St., Chai Wan, 2896-7006. Liang Yi Museum — Liang Yi is dedicated to promoting Chinese antique arts: you’ll find over 300 pieces of treasured furniture, ceramics and knickknacks here—they’re some of the best examples from the Ming and Qing dynasties that still remain. Catch Liang Yi’s distinguished lectures held on every first Tuesday of the month. Closed Sundays, Mondays, and public holidays. Admission costs $200. 181-199 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2806-8280.

antiques Arch Angel Antiques — Arch Angel houses large collections of Qing dynasty porcelain and restored 16th- to 18th-century Chinese furniture. Rare and authentic stone and bronze sculptures and buddhas, and terracotta sculptures from China and South-Eastern Asia are found in the viewing galleries. Shop A, 53-55 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2851-6848. Lam & Co Antiques — An impressive collection of fine Chinese antiquities which ranges from the Neolithic period to the Qing dynasty and includes bronze, gold and silverware, pottery and porcelain. This shop is well-known by collectors, galleries and auction dealers worldwide and offers repair, restoration, authentication and shipping services. 2/F, 151 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2543-8877. Oi Ling Antiques — Oi Ling’s Hollywood Road showroom houses a large collection of furniture from the 17th and 18th centuries, as well as authenticated pottery items dating as far back as the Neolithic era. 58 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2964-0554.

Address: Ground Floor, 1E Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong. (Opposite the Holiday Inn Golden Mile Hotel’s Mody Road entrance) Telephone: 2368-0040, 2723-0056 Email: laelite@netvigator.com 九龍尖沙咀麼地道1E地下 (金域假日酒店麼地道入口對面)

ART & Antiques Map Presented by our arts and antique partners

Shop Stop A

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Bonnie Lai Antiquities With 30 years of experience, Bonnie Lai Antiquities embraces different types of Chinese art. Specializing in early pottery, bronze, stone sculpture, ceramics and porcelain. Pieces are tested and authenticated by Oxford Authentication Ltd. It is a perfect place to pick up a piece of history. G/F, 168A Hollywood Rd, Central, Hong Kong www.bonnielaiantiquities.com, (852) 2559 7338

Parkview Art Hong Kong This new artistic venture by the Parkview Group has the mission to promote contemporary art in Hong Kong and overseas while building on its existing network of relationships with artists, collectors and art lovers in China and abroad to encourage dialogue between the artists, art and viewer, East and West. Shop 6, Upper G/F, Sunrise House 27 Old Bailey Street, Central info@parkviewarthk.com, (852) 2413 0028

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Erarta Galleries (established in St. Petersburg, New York, London, Zurich and Hong Kong) is the biggest global project promoting Russian Contemporary Art. The gallery brings a different collection created by more than 170 artists from over 20 regions of the country to the Hong Kong art enthusiasts.

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Galerie Koo Located in the heart of Central, focusing on contemporary art. The gallery represents established and emerging talented artists from Europe to Asia. The gallery aims to promote contemporary abstract arts with beauty and colours to art lovers of all levels domestically and internationally. 7/F, Vogue Bldg, 67 Wyndham St, Central, Hong Kong, www.galeriekoo.com, (852) 2525 0331

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Connoisseur Art Gallery Located along Hollywood Road in Central, Connoisseur Art Gallery specializes in collectible realist and figurative art by Chinese master artists. It also represents internationally acclaimed Swedish artist Dorina Mocan and French artist Christian Gaillard. G3, Chinacham Hollywood Ctr, 1 Hollywood Rd, Central, Hong Kong www.connoisseur-art.com, (852) 2868 5358

Connoisseur Contemporary Connoisseur Contemporary, the sister gallery of Connoisseur Art Gallery, shows paintings and photography works by both emerging and established artists from China, Japan and Chile.

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Prestige Crafts Oi Ling Antiques Oi Ling Antiques is one of the foremost dealers in high-end Chinese antiquities, including furniture, pottery, stone pieces and selected bronzes. Visitors will be warmly welcomed and will find in-depth knowledge and expertise, combined with authentication certificates to guarantee peace of mind. 58 Hollywood Rd, Central, Hong Kong www.oilingantiques.com, (852) 2815 942

Hong Kong Artistic Sculptor Mr. Chu Chung Shing is the internationally known founder of PRESTIGE CRAFTS. Mr. Chu has been concentrating on Mammoth tusk sculpture. He has contributed to the community by producing a huge quantity of exquisite works of art of various themes, and is rated first in the trade. Shop A, G/F, Elegance Crt, 184 Hollywood Rd, Central, Hong Kong www.prestige-crafts.com, (852) 2541 8840

APRIL 2015 I WHERE H ONG KONG 23

dining | The Guide

A Local Experience Quirky and distinct, cha chaan teng cafés are an unmissable part of the Hong Kong experience. By Dan Creffield

H 1

4 1. Typical cha chaan teng breakfast. By Rseric, Wikimedia Commons 2. Hong Kong-style French toast. By avlxyz, Wikimedia Commons 3. Tai Hing barbecued pork 4. Tai Hing barbecued and marinated platter 5. Tai Hing sweet and sour pork

6. Hong Kong milk tea. By I, K.C. Tang, Wikimedia Commons

Dig In There are plenty of cha chaan tengs across Hong Kong, big and small, both chains and independent cafés. Try one for yourself!

Tai Hing

Australia Dairy Company

Established in 1989 and now one of the largest Hong Kong chains in the city, Tai Hing is renowned as the “King of Roast”. Other signature dishes include “five-star” barbecue pork and sweet and sour pork.

Another famous cha chaan teng, the Australia Dairy Company attracts crowds not only for the great scrambled eggs but also for its authentically abrupt staff and chaotic ambience.

Various locations including Shop A, Man On Commercial Building, 12-13 Jubilee St., Central, 2567-2200

47 Parkes St., Jordan, 2730-1356.

Lan Fong Yuen Lan Fong Yuen on Gage Street is another popular Hong Kong dining experience. Tourists and locals alike flock for its “silk stocking” milk tea, which the restaurant claims to have invented, as well as its legendary pork chop bun. 2 Gage St., Central, 2544-3895.

24 W H E R E HONG KONG I A P R I L 2 015

Tsui Wah Tsui Wah is the most popular chain in Hong Kong, with numerous branches across the city, some open 24 hours to early shift workers, hungry clubbers and local celebs alike. At the higher end price-wise, it offers classics such as crispy pork chop buns, king prawns in XO Sauce with tossed noodles, and “Swiss-style” chicken wings (wings marinated in soy sauce). 15-19 Wellington St., GF-2F, Central, 2366-8250.

ong Kong has an endearing habit of appropriating things—fashion, food, culture—and making them its own. It’s the food especially though that is a real cultural fusion, and this is most representative in the city’s ubiquitous cha chaan tengs (literally “tea restaurants”). Cha chaan tengs—invented after World War II by local restaurateurs who were influenced by British colonial culture—offer an intriguing combination of western and Chinese food. In addition to more authentic local dishes, such as soup noodles with fish balls/ wontons/beef brisket, fried noodles and rice dishes, there are numerous crossover “soy sauce western food” items on the menu. These include chicken wings, mild curry, sandwiches (egg, ham, corned beef or club), Hong Kong-style spaghetti bolognese, macaroni in soup, omelet and more. On the sweet side are egg tarts and various Hong Kong-style buns, including the famous pineapple buns—so-named because they resemble pineapples, not because they contain any. And no cha chaan teng experience would be complete without sampling Hong Kong-style French toast: thick white bread slathered with condensed milk and/or butter/peanut butter. Every cha chaan teng worth its soy sauce will offer coffee (usually instant), Hong Kongstyle milk tea, yuen yeung—an odd mixture of coffee and tea, lemon tea, Horlicks and Ovaltine, and soft drinks.

Tea Please Local milk tea is a cha chaan teng must-try. Also known as “silk stocking” tea because it is often percolated in a stocking-like filter, the drink is usually a blend of Indian or Sri Lankan black tea infused with evaporated or condensed milk. Sweet and creamy, it is further sweetened by adding sugar. Left in large urns for several hours to brew, milk tea is hugely popular, whether drunk iced in the summer or hot in winter, and its quality is judged by its aroma and intensity.

dining

Down with Dumplings Learn how to make some Hong Kong-style dumplings this Easter. Perfect your dim sum-making skills this Easter with a workshop and afternoon tea package at Social Place. From April 3 to April 6, the restaurant will be hosting afternoon classes teaching you how to make bunny-shaped prawn dumplings and carrot pastries. This will be followed by a tea session for you to sample and enjoy your own creations, plus munch on other nibbles like pickled cucumber rolls and chicken wings. The classes cost HK $399 per person, and the April 3 class is for adults only while the rest of the classes are open to families with children (bonus: one child gets to do the class for free). Take home an apron as a souvenir at the end of the class. Social Place, 2/F, L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3568-9666.

Central & Sheung Wan 81/2 Otto E Mezzo Bombana — Italian $$$$$ Chef Umberto Bombana’s unique brand of contemporary Italian cuisine is offered in the regularly changing decadent lunch and dinner sets (though an à la carte menu is also available). Shop 202, Alexandra House, 18 Chater Rd., Central, 2537-8859.

Amber — French $$$$ Chef Richard Ekkebus and his team create classic French dishes that are given an innovative twist. This restaurant is consistently included in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. 7/F, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen’s Rd., Central, 2132-0066.

Bêp Vietnamese Kitchen

Aberdeen Street Social

Aberdeen Street Social — British $$$$ Michelin-starred chef Jason Atherton and entrepreneur Yenn Wong collaborate for the third time to launch Aberdeen Street Social, bringing their take on modern British cuisine to the hipsters of Hong Kong. G/F, JPC Building, PMQ, 35 Aberdeen St., Central, 2866-0300.

BÊp Vietnamese Kitchen - Wellington Street — Vietnamese $$ Leave it to the Nha Trang group to come up with another rock-solid Vietnamese concept—this time, one that specializes in jazzed-up versions of casual snacks and dishes one would find on the streets of Saigon. Pho is on the menu at Bêp, but it’s not the highlight as is the case for most Vietnamese joints around town. There is plenty of rice, grilled meat, and dishes you’ve never heard of

(hen xao xuc banh da, anyone?) to experiment with as well. Go hungry. 88-90 Wellington St., Central, 2581-9992. Bloom — American $$$-$$$$ Since opening in August 2010, Bloom has been heralded as a Central go-to restaurant for its ridiculously awesome design, elaborate cocktails and homey-yet-upscale food. Its offerings include an extensive raw bar, surf and turf, and deliciously creamy mac ‘n’ cheese. The juicy and sizable pork chop with a side of smoky ribs is a good bet for an entree. 5/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 2810-6166. Chachawan — Thai $$$ Chachawan serves up Issan-style Thai dishes that truly pack a punch. Try the salt-baked whole seabass and finish with some salted coconut dumplings. The bar also brews a mean cocktail. 206 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2549-0020. ChÔm ChÔm — Vietnamese $$ It seems a bold move to not serve pho at a place that calls itself Vietnamese, but it works. Diners are squeezed into a posh but tiny space that’s mostly eaten up by a large L-shaped bar. Beer and Vietnamese street foods are the two key elements at this new space. G/F, Block A, 58-60 Peel St., Central, 2810-0850. A P R I L 2 015 I WHERE H ONG KONG 25

dining | The Guide Ciak — Italian $$$ Backed by chef Umberto Bombana, Sir David Tang and media mogul Peter Lam, CIAK offers casual Italian fare including bread, pizza and pasta, either for takeaway or a quick eat-in. 3/F, Landmark Atrium, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2522-8869. Corner Kitchen Cafe — Café $$ Taking over Heirloom’s old digs in Sheung Wan, Corner Kitchen Cafe has the same shabby-chic interiors—but it has revamped the menu, with more salads, wraps, cakes and pastries. It’s also more casual: you order at the counter and pay up-front. G/F, 226 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2803-2822. Dandan Soul Food From Sichuan — Sichuan $ This in-and-out noodle bar specializes in spicy Sichuan-style noodles, and there are about a dozen tantalizing options to choose from, so be sure you have your mind made up by the time you reach the counter. Shop 101A, Grand Millennium Plaza, 181 Queen’s Rd. Central, Sheung Wan, 6920-8125.

Chôm Chôm

Fatty Crab

Fatty Crab — American $$$ Halfway up Old Bailey Street, this bar/resto offers Pan-Asian cuisine, specialty cocktails and creations galore—including the mighty Pickleback shot. G/F, 11-13 Old Bailey St., Central, 2521-2033.

Elgin Street. It’s kept its casual menu of homecooked, family-style dishes and added a few extra to boot. 49 Elgin St., Central, 2387-6338.

Sohofama — Chinese $$$ Sohofama is proof that great-tasting Chinese food doesn’t have to be loaded with MSG or consist of exotic dried creatures. Tuck into organic pork xiaolongbao and other dishes topped with herbs and veggies grown straight from Sohofama’s own garden on the outdoor patio. Shop G09-G14, G/F, Block A, PMQ, 35 Aberdeen St., Central, 2858-8238.

Foxtail & Broomcorn — Asian $ Get ready to slurp on some trendy strands courtesy of Foxtail & Broomcorn, a noodle bar that serves signature recipes from all over Asia—but with a contemporary, European twist. 84 Jervois St., Sheung Wan, 2415-2555.

Nur

Ho Lee Fook

Ho Lee Fook — Chinese $$ HLF is a cheeky, modern take on Chinese cuisine, courtesy of Aussie chef Jowett Yu (of Ms. G’s and Mr. Wong in Sydney). The venue consists of a ground floor open kitchen decked out in mahjong tiles, and a dark and funky basement dining room. LG-G/F, 1-5 Elgin St., Central, 2810-0860. Linguini Fini — Italian $$ Popular Italian resto Linguini Fini has moved from its dim, loft-like space inside the L Place to an enormous open-fronted spot next to the escalators on 26 W H E R E HONG KONG I A P R I L 2 015

open-faced bao, stews in adorable pastel pots and truffle- and shitake-flavored buns that actually look like mushrooms. 2/F, The L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, Central, 3568-9666.

Nur — Western $$$$ Chef Nurdin Topham gives his dishes a Scando-fresh spin at this Prive-group-owned restaurant on Lyndhurst Terrace. While Nur’s tasting menu easily spans nine courses, the expertly calculated portions and balanced ingredients (not too much red meat, lots of veggie-based dishes) make it one of the healthiest and most guilt-free indulgences in the city. 3/F, Lyndhurst Tower, 1 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, 2871-9993. Sichuan House — Sichuan $ The menu’s chili ratings can be misleading: even dishes with no chili contain a bit of zing. Then again—if you didn’t like spice, why choose Sichuanese in the first place? 7/F, M88, 2 Wellington St., Central, 2521-6699. Social Place — Dim sum $ You’re not gonna be getting regular har gau and siu mai at this Cantonese diner. Instead, it’s all about the

Tsui Wah Restaurant — Chinese $ One of Hong Kong’s best and busiest quickservice restaurants, Tsui Wah offers good, innovative Chinese food at reasonable prices. Its more successful culinary creations include fish-essence soup and pork cartilage with noodles. 15-19 Wellington St., Central, 2525-6338. Xia Fei Society — Shanghainese $$$ Xia Fei Society is the glamorous flagship of the Xia Fei group of restaurants, serving fancy Shanghainese fare in a contemporary space full of round white tables and sturdy wooden seats. 4/F, Century Square, 1-13 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2522-7611.

Wan Chai & Causeway Bay 22 Ships — Spanish $$$ British chef Jason Atherton’s 22 Ships, named for its address, is a sparsely decorated tapas bar with unfinished floors that serves small plates with a modern twist. Since it takes no reservations, the intimate venue is always packed. 22 Ship St., Wan Chai, 2555-0722.

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A series of stories, recommendations and tips on Hong Kong from people in the know. Explore our city based on the travel experiences that interest you and get itineraries for off-the-beaten-path neighborhoods.

Food and the City Hong Kong is where celebrity chefs from across the globe compete to showcase their talent—and where diners come in droves to be the first to tuck in. But as densely packed as this city is with Michelin-starred restaurants and venues you’ll queue all night for, it also excels in rich, local gems steeped in tradition, and humble, neighborhood family favorites.

Spotlight on: Kowloon City Just across the harbor from Hong Kong Island lies Kowloon City, a district that’s often talked about as “The Food City” or “Little Thailand.” The district is named after the former Kowloon Walled City—a 2.7 hectare, densely populated and essentially ungoverned settlement of Chinese triads. Today, instead of squalor and anarchy, you’ll find a peaceful Thai community setting up shop and a heavy Chiu Chow influence.

Teatime Favorites Dim sum is our city’s unofficial pastime, interwoven in our DNA. The culture of the noisy teahouse—think fluttering birds in cages, trolleys stacked with steaming bamboo boxes—is firmly rooted in Hong Kong’s heritage. For a grand experience, Maxim’s Palace is a visitor’s favorite. For something more adventurous that will immerse you in the Hong Kong of old, try the classic teahouse, Lin Heung Lau.

Streetside Snacks

Outside the Walls

For another uniquely Hong Kong experience, a meal must be had at an outdoor, streetside dai pai dong. Grab a seat on a wooden stool by a rickety folding table at these limited-license mom-and-pop stalls and order everything from wok-kissed seafood to fried rice and noodles. If in doubt of what to try, point to something attractive from a neighbor’s table and ask for that!

The Kowloon Walled City Park opened in December 1995, modelled on the Jiangnan gardens of the early Qing Dynasty. Some historical artefacts from the Walled City still remain, including its Yamen building and remnants of its South Gate. Just outside of these walls, you’ll see evidence of the influx of Thai immigrants who moved in to Kowloon City in the 1980s and 90s and formed their own little community—Little Thailand—selling the authentic food and wares of their home country.

Just Desserts If you still have room there are plenty of Cantonese desserts and snacks to enjoy after your meal. Longestablished restaurants serve traditional puddings such as black sesame or assorted bean soup. Crispy egg rolls and “wife cakes” (a winter melon, almond and sesame-based pastry) are other well-known Chinese snacks. And for the ultimate in sweet snacks, puffy egg waffles are a must. Browse through our recommendations for an introduction to the city’s must-tries at www.DiscoverHongKong.com/ InsidersGuide.

Foodie Neighborhood A wander around this hood-within-ahood will introduce you to many of the sights, sounds and smells you’d expect from the Land of Smiles: head to South Wall Road for the biggest concentration

of groceries, street stalls and dessert shops. You’ll also find some of the oldest Chiu Chow restaurants here, featuring sweet soups and traditional baked goods.

Changing Faces A gentrification of sorts is taking place in the district, with the development of the Kai Tak Cruise Terminal on the site of the old Hong Kong airport. Besides being a state-of-the-art transit point, the terminal also houses a vast rooftop garden with glorious harbor views. Another transformation has happened with the Cattle Depot Artist Village—a former slaughterhouse—which is now an artistic hub and protected historical building. Head online to www.DiscoverHongKong. com/InsidersGuide to create your personalized itinerary for Kowloon City.

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dining | The Guide

Snack Attack Three dim sum halls for your snack fix. By Adele Wong

The Square

Lin Heung Tea House Lin Heung Tea House on Wellington Street is for those of us who are nostalgic for the good ol’ days. The establishment doesn’t look like it’s changed much over the decades—including the wooden tables and chairs that look positively ancient. Diners are encouraged to wash their own bowls and utensils at the table, and dishes are served in bamboo steamers darkened with age. Lin Heung Tea House

160-164 Wellington St., Central, 2544-4556.

Ship Street, serving the fluffy Chinese-style tacos wrapped in steamed Chinese buns in relatively affordable combos. Shop 2, 28 Tai Wong St. East, Wan Chai, 2528-9505.

An Nam

An Nam — Vietnamese $$ An Nam serves Vietnamese-style dishes in an exquisitely designed setting. Diners can savor fresh seafood and roast meats as well as traditional delicacies from the region of Hue. 4/F, Lee Gardens One, 33 Hysan Ave., Causeway Bay, 2787-3922.

Bao Wow

Bao Wow — Chinese $ Bao Wow is a sizzling little fast food diner just a block from hipster 28 W H E R E HONG KONG I A P R I L 2 015

Bo Innovation — Asian $$$$-$$$$$ “ Demon chef” Alvin Leung is known for his innovative takes on Asian cuisine. Steamed soup dumplings get transformed into different shapes, textures and sizes, and many other things don’t look like they’re supposed to at t his three Michelin-starred restaurant. 2/F, J Residence, 60 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2850-8371. Grand Hyatt Steakhouse — Steak $$$$ This steakhouse has an old-school feel as does the menu, with classics that focus on traditional execution rather than edgy experimentation. Beef lovers can choose between an array of prime cuts, from Japanese wagyu to Nebraska USDA prime tenderloin to Canadian heritage Angus. 2/F, Grand Hyatt Hong Kong, 1 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, 2584-7722. Kin’s Kitchen — Cantonese $$ Kin’s Kitchen is a world away from the sweet ‘n’ sour, MSG-laden fare you might generally associate with affordable Cantonese food. Picking up secret recipes during his journeys in China, the well-traveled food writer Lau Kin-wai gives the local cuisine a contemporary

The Square is a spacious venue on the fourth floor of Two Exchange Square, and has been a Michelin Guide favorite for years. The dim sum menu is long and comprehensive, and you’ll be able to find the staple steamed beef balls and dumplings as well as larger dishes like fried noodles and suckling pig with rice crackers. 4/F, Two Exchange Square, 8 Connaught Place, Central, 2525-1163.

Metropol One of the remaining dim sum houses that still serves dishes from trolleys, Metropol is a true gem for big lunches and family brunches alike. For even more interaction, head to the demonstration stations and take your pick of the freshly cooked dishes. 4/F, United Centre, 95 Queensway, Admiralty, 2865-1988.

makeover. 5/F, W Square, 314-324 Hennessy Rd., Wan Chai, 2571-0913. One Harbour Road — Cantonese $$$ Of all the fine Chinese restaurants in our many luxury hotels, this is one of the classiest. Tables are generously spaced over two floors—other diners seem miles away— and the downstairs area features a stone lily pond. The food is graceful and sumptuous, with a focus on luxury ingredients such as abalone. There is an extensive wine list specially selected to pair with Chinese flavors. 7-8/F, Grand Hyatt Hong Kong, 1 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, 2584-7722. Pirata — Italian $$ Pirata has dropped anchor on the shores of Wan Chai, and it’s one cool ship indeed. The two-story Italian resto consists of a top floor bar and an industrial-chic room and serves steaks and pastas, sharing-style. 29-30/F, 239 Hennessy Rd., Wan Chai, 2887-0270. Seasons by Olivier E — French $$$ Chef Olivier Elzer, formerly of L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon, now has his own brand in a sprawling space at Lee Gardens Two. It’s part of a new breed of restaurants trying to tone down the uppity factor of fine-dining with a laissezfaire, casual approach. 3/F, Lee Gardens Two, 2-38 Yun Ping Rd., Causeway Bay, 2505-6228.

dining

NO RULES, JUST RIGHT. ‘GO OUTBACK’ TONIGHT!

The Principal

The Principal — Modern European $$$ Soft shades of color, cushy chairs and bright lighting make The Principal a very comfortable place to be. Food-wise, restaurant dishes out “modern” cuisine, which means everything is presentation-focused and of ambiguous origins. 9 Star St., Wan Chai, 2563-3444.

Tsim Sha Tsui Dong Lai Shun — Chinese $$$ Established in Beijing since 1903, this restaurant serves high-end Beijing and Huaiyang cuisine. B2/F, The Royal Garden, 69 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2733-2020. Loong Toh Yuen — Asian $$$ Loong Toh Yuen has an unbeatable ambience. The paper lantern-lined corridor that leads to the stone courtyard in Hullett House really gives this Cantonese restaurant an elegant Chinese feel. The restaurant serves dim sum in the afternoons, and you can expect dishes like deep-fried shrimp rolls made with thousand-year-old egg. 3/F, 1881 Heritage, Hullett House, 2A Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3988-0000.

Causeway Bay 2/F, JP Plaza, 22-36 Paterson St. Reservations: 2881 8012 Wanchai 1/F, De Fenwick, 8-12 Fenwick St. Reservations: 3101 0418

www.outback.com.hk

Whampoa Shop 3A, G/F, Site 4, Whampoa Garden, Hunghom Reservations: 2766 2823

Tuen Mun Tsuen Wan

Whampoa Tsim Sha Tsui Wanchai

Tsim Sha Tsui East Taikoo Causeway Bay

Tsim Sha Tsui Shop 1, Level 2, 26 Nathan Rd. Reservations: 3741 1728

Tsim Sha Tsui East Shops 23-28, Upper Ground Floor, Tsim Sha Tsui Centre, 66 Mody Rd. Reservations: 2311 7800 Tsuen Wan Shops 3-5, Level 2, Discovery Park Shopping Centre, 398 Castle Peak Rd. Reservations: 2940 0682 Taikoo Shops G9-G10, G/F, Kornhill Plaza, 1 Kornhill Rd. Reservations: 2560 8246 Tuen Mun Shop 2016-2017, 2/F, Phase 1, Tuen Mun Town Plaza Reservations: 2426 3918

T’ang Court — Cantonese $$$$ This is a gem, serving some of the city’s finest Cantonese cuisine in imperial surroundings. 1/F, The Langham, Hong Kong, 8 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2375-1133.

Whisk

Whisk — European $$$ Whisk is sophistication with a hip edge. It’s all about contempoEuropean cuisine made with the freshest seasonal ingredients, and the menu changes regularly. Level 5, The Mira Hong Kong, 118-130 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-5999. Price Guide $ Less than $200 $$ $200-$399 $$$ $400-$599

$$$$ $600-$799 $$$$$ $800 and up

Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course and dessert. Prices do not include bottles of wine unless stated. A P R I L 2 015 I WHERE H ONG KONG 29

Taste of the city B rought to Y ou by O ur R estaurant Partners

Lu Yang Cun Shanghai Restaurant Yangzhou cuisine is well-noted for its detailed work, along with the emphasis on fresh color and original design. Being appealing in color, aroma, taste and appearance, the cuisine constantly caters to a wide range of diners. Head Chef, Cheung Wing Chuen, will showcase his fine cutting techniques, which give prominence to main ingredients and lay stress on original flavor. The exceptional menu will include Shredded Chicken, Dried Beancurd and Jin Hua Ham, Rainbow Egg in Flower Shaped, Double-boiled Turtle Soup with Chicken and Ginseng, Stewed Deer Sinew with Vegetable, Steamed River Shrimp Cake Wrapped with Chopped Egg, Stewed Shredded Dried Beancurd with Crab Roe and Braised Pork Belly with Vegetable in Brown Sauce. The menu has many other Yangzhou specialties in its medley of tastes and flavours. Address: 11/f, WTC Mall, 280 Gloucester road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong, tel: 2881 6669, fax: 2890 3370

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Dong Lai Shun (Beijing and Huaiyang cuisine) Founded in Beijing and renowned for authentic â&#x20AC;&#x153;Shuan Yang Rouâ&#x20AC;?. Huaiyang cuisines are also offered to widen your choices at Dong Lai Shun. It has been crowned as the one Michelin star restaurant in the Michelin Guide Hong Kong Macau 2013. Paper-thin slices of Inner Mongolian black-headed mutton is cooked instantly and stays tender even when boiled for longer periods of time. Served with succulently seasoned sauces made from ancient secret recipes provide a fiesta of flavours. Address: Basement 2, The Royal Garden, 69 Mody Road, Tsimshatsui East, Kowloon, Hong Kong, 2733 2020

Inagiku Grande Japanese Restaurant

Sabatini Ristorante Italiano

For more than 100 years, the Inagiku family business has been preparing its famous tempura at its restaurants in Japan and elsewhere in the world. A restaurant described as having timeless character and touches of Japanese originality, the refined and gentle elegance of Japanese culinary art can be seen in every detail at Inagiku. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Set lunch, a la carte menu and free parking are available.

The original Sabatini Ristorante Italiano restaurant opened in Rome in 1954. Since then, the Sabatini brothers’ flair and excellence have led to 2 other Sabatini Ristorante Italiano restaurants around the world, including this fine dining room at The Royal Garden. Here, a traditional “Roman cuisine” menu is overseen by the Sabatini brothers and is served in a picturesque “countryside” setting. The menu features seasonal specialties and is complimented by an extensive wine list.

Address: 1/F, The Royal Garden Hotel, 69 Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui East, Kowloon, Hong Kong, 2733 2933

Address: 3/F, The Royal Garden Hotel, 69 Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui East, Kowloon, Hong Kong, 2733 2000

A P R I L 2 015 I WHERE H ONG KONG 31

Drinks | The Guide

Class Act Soak up Hong Kong’s nightlife at these two classy hangouts.

The Woods This dark, cozy secret garden tucked into a Wyndham Street basement does expertly crafted innovative cocktails paired with light bites. You can try the “Classics” menu of reimagined favorites (think four-pepper margarita or a dirty dill martini), the regularly changing seasonal menu, or the prix-fixe tasting menu of four cocktails that take you from appetizer to dessert, paired with light bites for $788. The Woods

L/G, 17 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2522-0281, www.thewoods.hk.

Caprice Bar Not everyone knows that French finedine Caprice has a vast cheese room and wine bar too. A cheese platter at Caprice is a classy yet tasteful— and tasty—night-out option. Order up the “a bit of everything” cheese platter ($370), which comes with six types of artisan cheese, with a French wine each. Or order a tasting of three wines for $350, or four for $460. Caprice Bar

experience in the basement. The concept is nothing new, but now’s your chance to give it a go. Seafood dishes are served in the lounge, as well as the likes of chargrilled wagyu beef and crispy pork belly. G-LG/F, 16 Arbuthnot Rd., Central, 6821-2801.

121BC

121BC — 121BC is a wine lover’s heaven. Enjoy top-of-the-range wines sourced from Italy paired with a rustic Italian menu. 42-44 Peel St., Central, 2395-0200. Alchemy — Alchemy is the perfect antidote to the crowds of Wyndham. In addition to the lounge bar, it also boasts a dining-in-the-dark

Amazake — Amazake is sandwiched between three of Hong Kong’s biggest clubs: Play, Levels and Dizzi. Amazake is bright and pumping with energy, a place for large groups to pre-game before hitting the clubs next door. G/F, On Hing Building, 1 On Hing Terrace, Central, 2537-7787. Aqua Spirit — This bar redefines the notion of having a sophisticated drink with friends. Regarded as one of the best bars in Hong Kong, Aqua has stunning harbor and city views. 29/F-30/F, Penthouse, 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3427-2288.

6/F, Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong, 8 Finance St., Central, 3196-8888.

Boujis — Taking a cue from its highly successful and celeb-endorsed model in London, Boujis has established an Asian branch in Hong Kong. The moody space comes alive at night with house, electro and similarly buzzing sounds. 37 Pottinger St., Central, 2324-0200. Common Room — Common Room is a spacious gastropub that serves international tapas and mixologist-crafted cocktails right off LKF’s main drag. 1/F, Wo On Building, 8-13 Wo On Lane, Central, 2525-3599. Craft Brew & Co — Unlike other beer joints, you won’t find a single mass-produced beer here—so if you can’t bear to part with your Peroni, then maybe move along. There are brews from the likes of Anderson Valley, Anchor and Mountain Goat—and of course, local brewery Young Master Ales. Craft Brew also serves gourmet grilled sausages, made with unusual ingredients. Forget your average

For weekly event listings, pick up a free copy of HK Magazine (available at bars, restaurants and coffee shops).

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Drinks Sevva — A spacious alfresco terrace surrounds this super-stylish restaurant/lounge and offers unique, panoramic views over Hong Kong. A perfect place to watch the Symphony of Lights. 25/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2537-1388.

bratwurst (although that’s also on offer)—you’ll find exotic meats such as crocodile, cobra and rabbit on the menu. G/F, 17 Old Bailey St., Central, 2885-0821. Djiboutii — Hidden down an unassuming alleyway in Wan Chai, Djiboutii is an Africaninspired “urban sanctuary.” Ingredients like Casamigos tequila, sloe berry liqueurs and Aztec chocolate make appearances in signature cocktails. Nibble on kebab skewers and naan bread dipped in baba ganoush. Shop 1, G/F, 2 Ship St., Wan Chai, 9449-0777.

Lily and Bloom

Lily and Bloom — A-list celebs have been seen here, with VIPs being buzzed in and out of their fabulous secret room, the Blind Pig. Expect swarms of glitterati and the party elite. The aesthetes among you will be delighted so much attention has been paid to the visual elements of the venue. 6/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 2810-6166.

Fu Lu Shou

Fu Lu Shou — Hongkongers love a good rooftop bar. Meaning “happiness, prosperity and longevity,” Fu Lu Shou offers up cool surrounds and interesting concoctions. Not only do the innovative cocktails have a strong local flavor, but you’ll also find western-style Chinatown favorites on the menu. 7/F, 31 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2336-8812. Ham & Sherry — Patterned floor-to-ceiling Azulejo tiles in sharp blue and white are the first things that catch your eye at this modestly sized venue. In case it’s not obvious, sherry is the drink of choice here. Be sure to check out the “secret” back room. G/F, 1-7 Ship St., Wan Chai, 2555-0628.

Ozone — Located 118 floors above the ground, this bar boasts the title of the highest bar in Hong Kong. With an extensive—and expensive—menu of bubbly bottles and cocktails, this bar is a must-see, mainly because of its sky-high, drop-dead gorgeous lookout onto Victoria Harbour. 118/F, The Ritz-Carlton, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2263-2263. Peak Bar — The name’s a little confusing, but this is a cozy, laid-back spot with fab people watching right on the Mid-Levels Escalator. 9-13 Shelley St., Central, 2140-6877. Quinary — This chic hangout off of Hollywood Road serves awesome cocktails by molecular mixologist Antonio Lai. The Earl Grey caviar martini and the oolong tea Collins are both highly recommended. 56-58 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2851-3223.

Stockton — An apparent imitation of the turn-of-the-20th century decadent gentlemen’s club, Stockton is literally hidden in a poorly lit alleyway of Wyndham Street. Once inside, the bar transforms into a posh and glamorous space, decorated with elaborate furniture and antiques, perfect for intimate and romantic nights out. Their whisky and rum-based cocktails are excellent—definitely try Ribston Apple, an easy-to-drink concoction of spiced rum, Amaretto, apple cider, honey and cinnamon. G/F, 32 Wyndham St., Central, 2565-5268. Sugar — Located on the 32nd floor, with an outdoor deck area some 300 feet above Victoria Harbour, this is the perfect place for patrons to soak up the stunning skyline and sea views Hong Kong has to offer. 32/F, East Hotel, 29 Tai Koo Shing Rd., Quarry Bay, 3968-3738. The Envoy — The Envoy is a stylish venue in an unbeatable Central location, with a touch of colonial influence. Tea makes a frequent appearance in the cocktails: a tip of the hat to the city’s first governor Sir Henry Pottinger, who had a hand in establishing Hong Kong as a major shipping port for the infusion. 3/F, The Pottinger Hong Kong, 74 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2169-3311. The Tonno — This multi-faceted complex features a bar, restaurant, live music lounge, karaoke rooms—in short, it takes “all-around entertainment” to a whole new level. 5 Tonnochy Rd., Wan Chai, 3125-3888. Tipping Point Brewing Co — This craft beer hangout serves IPAs, stouts and wheat beers instead of standard commercial varieties. The bar is the brainchild of chef and restaurateur Que Vinh Dang. 29 Wyndham St., Central, 2868-2892.

Topiary

Ham & Sherry

Topiary — Cocktail bar Topiary is a mixed bag: alongside premium Scottish single malts and Japanese whiskies, you’ll find shim cocktails on the menu. They’re essentially low-alcohol cocktails, meaning you get all the great flavors and complexity of a drink, without ending up totally tipsy by your third. As for bar snacks, Topiary offers up vegetarian canapes. 3/F, Hilltop Plaza, 49-51 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2866-6485. A P R I L 2 0 15 I WHERE H ONG KONG 33

ShopS+Services | The Guide

Right On Beat Evelyn Lok explores The Pulse, Repulse Bay’s radiant new shopping hub. Officially open since last fall, the city’s newest shopping destination The Pulse is a beachside promenade located in Repulse Bay. The Pulse offers summer vibes all year round with its 180-degree panoramic sea views and breezy, relaxed atmosphere. It's a unique destination, with shopping, dining and family-friendly fun all under one roof. The shopping mall's trademark is its sunny location. The Pulse also supports the arts, hosting a string of events from outdoor film screenings to enlisting local artists for seasonal exhibits. This Easter, and in fact for the whole month of April, shoppers can look forward to Hong Kong illustrator Ethel Chow’s works—character from her book “Bunny Whispers” will be featured across the mall’s fanciful spring motif. Chow will even host workshops with children to teach them how to make adorable bunny masks.

With Repulse Bay and the surrounding Southern Island district being a popular weekend destination (and residential area) for young families, The Pulse is a perfect place to while away an afternoon with the little ones in tow. If parents are looking for some down time of their own, there’s a “Peek-a-boo” section just for children on the second floor, where they can be thoroughly entertained and well lookedafter with on-site child care services and interactive games. There’s something for everyone on offer here. Aside from fashion brands such as Seed Heritage, Spanish Shoes and Tunique, there are also plenty of designer homeware stores to browse. You can get pampered at one of the multiple hair and beauty salons on-site, and enjoy a mid-shopping break by digging into delicious treats: Get your ice cream fix from Lab Made Ice Cream, a fruity parfait at Hui Lau Shan, or even a well-rounded meal from one of many buzzing F&B outlets. 28 Beach Rd., Repulse Bay, www.thepulse.com.hk.

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ShopS+Services Loveramics

Meen & Rice

Hong Kong-based ceramics house Loveramics creates fun yet functional contemporary products, from everyday tableware to kitchen utensils to specialist coffee-making equipment. Some of the signature designs include an updated twist on classic blue and white china, as well as mugs and espresso cups that have been used in official international coffee competitions. The Pulse branch also includes a Loveramics workshop where you can paint your own ceramics, which can be excellent as gifts or to decorate your home.

Restaurateur Yenn Wong’s Meen & Rice harks back to basic Cantonese staples, like congee, rice noodles and rice, but with an edgier, updated spin. It’s all set in an effortlessly cool, vintage-inspired space: think Chinese calligraphy and old-style menu plaques adorning the walls. The dishes take inspiration from classic Cantonese comfort foods—from fresh shrimp wonton noodle soup ($38) to glossy, marbled barbecued pork with rice ($68); as well as more upscale dishes such as fresh shrimp with black truffle and asparagus. Shop 113, 1/F, 2566-8886. Open daily 11:30am-10:30pm.

Shop 206 & 207B, 2/F, 2994-1289. Open daily, 11am-7pm.

Blanc: Hair Spa For those always wishing for healthy, luxurious locks, Blanc: Hair Spa is here to help. Offering a slew of hair treatments, the resident hair and scalp specialists will first conduct a diagnosis and proceed to create a customized prescription to treat your hair—starting from the choice of products to a gentle head massage. Shop 212, 2/F, 2149-1886. Open daily 10am-7pm.

Limewood Limewood serves up Asian/ Mexican fusion dishes, seafood and barbecue in its beachy, airy space. Some of the signature dishes include Vietnamese-style fish tacos, charred whole sea bream, and Hawaiian roasted pig leg. Wash it all down with some cold beers and tropical cocktails. Shop 103 & 104, 1/F, 2866-8668. Open daily noon-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm.

Repulse Bay Visual Art Museum The second—and largest—3D Art Museum in the SAR, this 23,000-square-foot space is home to all kinds of interactive opticalillusion displays. You can take part in an array of quirky scenes: hang out with aliens, feed pandas, walk down a street in vintage Hong Kong, and more. Don't forget your cameras. Shop B104, B1/F; Shop 305, 1/F, 2180-9321. Open daily, 9am-9pm.

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ShopS+Services | The Guide

Suits You Just Fine

Tailors

Hong Kong is a haven for the well groomed, stylish and urbane, and nowhere is this better demonstrated than in the astonishingly affordable tailored suits widely available in the city. Whether you’re tall, short, thin or thick, any local tailor worth his salt will have the cutting chops to display you to your best. Sam's Tailor is a proper family business, started by the legendary Sam Melwani but now operated by his sons Manu and Roshan. The small family business has grown into a global brand, with a clientele that includes royalty and American presidents. Here are some of their tips for picking out the perfect suit for your build: 1. Customers need to be steered towards a cut that will work for them. They need a tailor who understands these things, who has the experience. For the big, heavy chap, we recommend a dark charcoal gray or navy blue suit. They are the most flattering colors to give a slimmer look and add a little bit of height.

Cuffs

CUFFS — 2/F, 27 Lee Garden Rd., Causeway Bay, 2413-6033. DAVID FASHIONs — G/F, Shop 15, Empress Plaza, 17-19 Chatham Rd. South, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2368-6884. L & K bespoke Tailor — G/F, Mirador Mansion, 54-64 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2369-7278. La Elite Fashions — G/F, 1E Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2368-0040. Nita Fashions — G/F, 16 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2721-9990.

2. W aistbands should also be a little bit pinched on each side of the jacket, from the armhole down to the waist, which also has a flattering effect. Pockets should be straight. And if the person is stout, they cannot have narrow sleeves, as this will impede movement. 3. If the gentleman is on the taller side, say from 5’ 11” to 6’ 4”, he needs a one-button to two-button suit, and slanting pocket. It should be a slim fit with narrow sleeves. Light gray or beige colors work, as does medium blue. In terms of fabrics, mohair is a good choice.

Punjab House

Punjab House — Shop G, G/F, Burlington Houswe, 94 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-6612. Raja Fashions — G/F, 34C Cameron Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-7624. Shaniel Custom Tailor — G/F, Shop B & C, Comfort Building, 86-88A Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2730-1251.

Sam's Tailor, Shop K & L, G/F, Burlington Arcade, 90-94C Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-9423, www.samstailor.com.

The Armoury

The Armoury — Shop 307, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2804-6991.

Almost all goods, apart from certain types of alcohol and tobacco, are tax-free.

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Tel: 2730 1251

ShopS+Services | The Guide

One of Our Own

Shopping Centers

Support our local designers and bring home a piece that’s proudly made in Hong Kong. By Katie Kenny

APM — In the center of Kwun Tong, APM opens late (11am) but closes even later (2am). It boasts 150 shops, a cinema, more than 20 international restaurants and a convenient link to the MTR station. 418 Kwun Tong Rd., Kwun Tong, 3148-1200. ELEMENTS — Two floors and a million square feet of retail heaven beneath Hong Kong’s tallest building, the ICC, this luxury mall offers international cuisine and world-class shopping. Other features include a cinema, ice rink and enormous rooftop garden. 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2735-5234.

HARBOUR CITY — This enormous stretch of shops runs along Canton Road for what seems like miles. Its four levels of shops, services and restaurants sprawl across over 2 million square feet. 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2118-8666. HYSAN PLACE — This mall is a great one-stop shopping destination, with over 120 stores (including hard-to-find Japanese brands) and tons of high-quality dining options. 500 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2886-7222.

IFC Mall

4 5

1. Polo shirt, $202, Grana, www.grana.com. 2. G.O.D. x Cecilia Ma clutches, from $1,280-2,180, Available at three G.O.D. locations including 9 Sharp St. East, Causeway Bay, 2890-5555. 3. Tote, $2,390, Mischa @ Lane Crawford 3/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2118-3388, www.mischadesigns.com. 4. Backpack, $928, Hellolulu X Little Studio @ Kapok PMQ, Shop HG10HG12, G/F, PMQ, 35 Aberdeen St., Central, 2858-8170. 5. Shoes, $1,450, Squarestreet, G/F, 15 Square St., Sheung Wan, 2362-1086. 6. Watch, $775, Handsome Co. @ Phatrice, www.phatrice.com.

7 38 W H E R E HONG KONG I A P R I L 2 015

7. A Day with Fé: Top, $500; bottoms, $750, Shop S502, 5/F, PMQ, 35 Aberdeen St., Central, 9727-5427, adaywithfe.com.

IFC MALL — This popular shopping center is home to more than 200 international highend brands with Lane Crawford acting as an anchor. It also has a luxurious cinema, and some of the finest dining in the city. Easily accessible via MTR, Airport Express and Star Ferry. 8 Finance St., Central, 2295-3308. HORIZON PLAZA — It may not look promising but this is something of a mecca for bargain fashion, furniture and Chinese antiques. The industrial high-rise features Lane Crawford and Joyce outlets. Also look for homeware emporium Tequila Kola and antiques warehouse Shambala. 2 Lee Wing St., Ap Lei Chau, 2554-9089. ISLAND BEVERLEY — Browse through closetsized boutiques offering the best of hip local designers. 1 Great George St., Causeway Bay, 2890-6823. THE LANDMARK — The Landmark is a fashion mecca centered around a five-story atrium. Don’t miss iconic London department store Harvey Nichols. 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3428-8086. LANGHAM PLACE — Occupying about 600,000 square feet, Langham Place houses fashion and lifestyle stores and more than 20 restaurants. It’s within walking distance of the Ladies’ Market and Fa Yuen Street. 8 Argyle St., Mong Kok, 3520-2800, www.langhamplace.com.hk.

ShopS+Services | The Guide Tang tang tang tang — Sir David Tang's casual lifestyle store stocks everything from rice cookers to pyjamas. G/F, 66 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2525-2112. Vivienne Tam — Elegant, feminine contemporary dresses with a Chinese twist. Shop 417, Times Square, 1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay, 2506-2088. Wudai Shiguo — This shop in the trendy Star Street neighborhood is a collaboration between a group of local designers and stocks American-style fashion and accessories. 9B1 St. Francis St., Wan Chai, 2528-3800.

Department Stores Harvey Nichols — The Hong Kong branch of London’s famous department store is a haven of international brands, with a good restaurant—the Fourth Floor—and a fabulous beauty department. The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3695-3388.

Tang Tang Tang Tang

LEE GARDENS — Divided into Lee Gardens and Lee Gardens Two, this luxury mall is stuffed with high-end retailers such as Gucci, Hermes, Louis Vuitton and more. Lee Gardens Two has children’s fashion shops, and there are plenty of restaurants to choose from. 33 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, 2907-5227, www.hysan.com.hk.

Harvey Nichols at Pacific Place

PACIFIC PLACE — One of the most popular malls in Hong Kong, Pacific Place has four floors of upscale shops and restaurants anchored by a massive Harvey Nichols. There’s also a nice range of eateries and a multi-screen cinema. 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2844-8988. PMQ — This Central complex used to be the Police Married Quarters, but is now home to designer boutiques and cool restaurants. 35 Aberdeen St., Central, 2870-2335.

upscale Japanese supermarket Citysuper, Page One books and a cinema. 1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay, 2118-8900.

Shops, Boutiques And Local Designers Blanc de Chine — Modern Chinese luxury clothing and accessories for women and men. Shop 123, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2104-7934. Daydream Nation — A locally grown label that incorporates fashion with other art forms like theater, dance, music, film and visual arts. It offers its own collection of clothing and accessories, as well as works from local artists and indie bands. Daydream Nation Circus Shop, 2/F, Hong Kong Arts Centre, 2 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, 2817-6313. G.O.D. — Some “Goods of Desire” for those searching for the perfect couch or unique home accessories. G-1/F, 48 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2805-1876. Kapok — Offers meticulously selected international and local brands for menswear, womenswear, bags and accessories, as well as lifestyle products. G/F, 5, St. Francis Yard, Wan Chai, 2549-9254.

PRINCE’S BUILDING — Prince’s Building is linked by covered walkways to The Landmark, Chater House, Alexandra House and The Galleria. A cozy mixture of the uber-fashionable, the artistic and the maternal, it also houses the excellent Oliver’s supermarket. 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2500-0555. One Peking — Satisfy your thirst for designer wear with Dior, Fendi, Miu Miu and Cartier. 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui. Rise Commercial Building — A playground for hip, trendy and young fashionistas. 5-11 Granville Circuit, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2384-8728. TIMES SQUARE — One of Hong Kong’s largest malls, this 13-story complex contains more than 230 shops—including Lane Crawford, 40 W H E R E HONG KONG I A P R I L 2 015

Joyce

JOYCE — Named after founder and Hong Kong’s first lady of fashion, Joyce Ma, this is the place for red-hot fashion and accessories, cult beauty brands and too-chic housewares. G/F, New World Tower, 18 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2810-1120; Shop 232, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2523-5944; Shop G106, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2907-2228. LANE CRAWFORD — This Hong Kong institution is almost as old as the city itself, and just as fashionable. It’s stacked with must-have designer brands as well as handbags, shoes, silver, linen, crystal and everything in between. 3/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2118-3388. SOGO — Japan’s most famous department store sits at one of the city’s busiest intersections. 555 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2833-8338. THE SWANK — Representing established designers as well as up-and-coming talents, The Swank has been one of the finest local fashion houses since 1955. It has 17 freestanding boutiques and points-of-sale in major department stores. Shop 103B, 1/F, Ocean Centre, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2175-4228.

Shanghai Tang SHANGHAI TANG — Shanghai Tang specializes in a funky fusion of traditional and contemporary Chinese design. You’ll find kitsch accessories, great housewares, fun T-shirts, fashion for men and women, and incredibly beautiful bespoke cheongsams. The flagship is worth a visit. 1 Duddell St., Central, 2525-7333.

Chinese Emporiums CHINESE ARTS AND CRAFTS — Stuffed with the best of Chinese crafts, from tablecloths to objets d’art to some incredible jade, this is one of the best places to stock up on gifts, porcelain, jewelry, cloth and fine antiques. Shop 220, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2735-4061.

ShopS+Services

YUE HWA CHINESE EMPORIUM — Yue Hwa is a great place to pick up souvenirs and gifts, from acupuncture needles to Chinese Zodiac figurines. There is a good selection of cheongsams, tops and trousers tailored from quality silk. 301-309 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3511-2222.

SPAS CHUAN SPA — This stunning spa focuses on the individual needs of each client through traditional Chinese medicine and theories, including yin and yang. Its consultants are qualified in Chinese medicine, massage and naturopathy. 41/F, Langham Place Hotel, 555 Shanghai St., Mong Kok, 3552-3510, www.chuanspa.com.

Flawless

FLAWLESS — This all-in-one shop offers makeup and nail services as well as spa treatments in a spacious upper-level venue. 4/F, Sea Bird House, 22-28 Wyndham St., Central, 2869-5868. IYARA DAY SPA — This Central institution offers everything from manis and pedis to facials, waxing and massage treatments. 1/F, 26 Cochrane St., Central, 2545-8638.

The Ritz-Carlton Spa

THE RITZ-CARLTON SPA BY ESPA — Get pampered at the highest hotel spa in the world. Located on the 116th floor, this relaxing retreat looms over the city and offers majestic views of Victoria Harbour. Spa guests can also take a dip in the hotel's sky-high infinity pool after their treatments. 116/F, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2263-2040, www.ritzcarlton.com/ hongkong. TEN FEET TALL — Go to Ten Feet Tall for a slightly different foot massage experience in an exotic ambience. The foot massage center features bright and sunny beach cabanas with pine, bamboo, natural marble and bright décor. The place’s signature treatments include genuine foot reflexology, shoulder and neck massages, pressure point massages and aromatic oil massages. 20-21/F, L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2971-1010, www.tenfeettall.com.hk. A P R I L 2 015 I WHERE H ONG KONG 41

Navigate | The Guide www.mtr.com.hk

Tourist Information HONG KONG TOURISM BOARD — The Hong Kong Tourism Board is ready to answer all your questions about travel in Hong Kong. Look for visitor centers at the following locations: Hong Kong International Airport (at Buffer Halls A and B, Arrivals Level, Terminal 1); Lo Wu (Arrival Hall, 2/F, Lo Wu Terminal Building); Kowloon (Star Ferry Concourse, Tsim Sha Tsui, open daily 8am-8pm); and The Peak Piazza (between The Peak Tower and The Peak Galleria, Hong Kong Island, open daily 9am-9pm). You can also call the Visitor Hotline (2508-1234) from 9am to 6pm. Visit www.discoverhonghong.com for descriptions of attractions, plus shopping, dining and touring tips. The website also has a comprehensive description of the month’s events and festivals, as well as virtual tours, e-cards, a photo gallery and handy downloadable apps for your phone.

Get Moving

Octopus Cards

Hong Kong has a great rapid transit railway system called the MTR, as well as highly punctual, carefully scheduled buses (with their routes clearly printed in English). Renting a car can be a headache because roads can be confusing and parking costly. It’s cheaper and easier to take a taxi, ferry, tram, bus, hotel limousine, or even a helicopter.

These are “tap-and-go” stored-value cards used across all of Hong Kong’s transportation systems (apart from taxis), and in retail outlets like car parks and convenience stores.

Taxis Taxis are readily available at reasonable prices. Be aware that drivers cannot pick up or drop off on roads marked with double yellow lines, and no waiting is allowed except on unmarked roads. Red taxis serve Hong Kong Island and Kowloon and can go anywhere in the territory. Green taxis cost less but only serve the New Territories. Similarly, blue taxis serve Lantau Island only. Drivers generally speak some English, but it is wise to get the hotel staff to write your destination in Chinese, or point to one of the destinations in this guide.

The size of a credit card, the Octopus is simply placed on the touch pads at the entrance to public transportation or the cash register in shops. Payment is automatically deducted. Cards can be refilled at MTR stations and any retail outlet that accepts them. Three types of Octopus cards are available. The “On Loan Octopus” costs $150, which includes a $50 deposit and $100 of stored value. The “Sold Octopus” costs $50, and does not include any stored value. The “Airport Express Travel Pass” costs $220/$300 and includes one/two single Airport Express journeys and three days of unlimited rides on the MTR, $20 stored value and a $50 deposit.

Trams have been a part of Hong Kong life for more than 100 years. With a $2.30 flat fare, they are still the cheapest way to get around.

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Navigate

Sáv the Day The newly opened Hotel Sav in Hung Hom is all about affordable accommodation. By Kate Springer Hong Kong welcomed a new hotel last month: Hotel Sáv, a budgetfriendly addition to the Hung Hom neighborhood that’s out to be as techsavvy as it is trendy. The 388-room address allows you to check in to your room straight from your mobile phone, and also offers free in-room handsets that come with unlimited internet. The décor is all about color: there are seven types of room themes meant to affect your mood, and an all-day healthy dining outlet named Palette, where you’ll find hydroponic veggies and a big dinner buffet. From $880. 83 Wuhu St., Hung Hom, 2275-8888, www. savhospitality.com.

Sam’s The Man (Just ask his customers)

Sam’s Tailor, Shop K, Burlington Arcade, 92-94 Nathan Road, Tsimshatsui, Kowloon. Tel: (852) 2367 9423 / 2721 8375 Fax: (852) 2311 8147

This could be yours in

HONG KONG For Advertising rates and further information. Call 2850 5678 A P R I L 2 015 I WHERE H ONG KONG 43

Navigate | The Guide Buses

Ask the Concierge

Hong Kong has two major bus companies: Kowloon Motor Bus — 2745-4466, www.kmb.hk. citybus / New World First BUS — 2136-8888/2873-0818, www.nwstbus.com.hk.

Sights & Attractions Avenue of Stars — Fans of Hong Kong movies will find their heroes' hand- and footprints permanently etched in concrete along the Avenue of the Stars, as well as a statue of Bruce Lee. Go at 8pm for the nightly musicand-laser extravaganza called the Symphony of Lights. Music only plays over the loudspeakers here, although the harborfront light display can be seen from around the city. Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront.

Spices, Repulse Bay

Coming from a long family line of concierges, Louis Baleros is celebrating 20 years at the InterContinental Hong Kong this month. He has a wealth of knowledge he’s always happy to share with visitors, both new and old. What’s the most important word in Cantonese you think a visitor should learn? It must be mo man tai, which means “no problem”. I teach guests this word and they all come back laughing—it works!

What about your day makes you smile? I feel a sense of achievement when a guest comes back and says, “I did all you told me to do.” The good thing about this job is that you always get somebody asking you something new everyday. That’s the fun part about my job: I come to work not knowing. Our work comes when we speak to the guest.

Are there any hidden treasures you’d recommend? You should go to Che Kung Temple (Sha Tin) and change your luck. Then head to Tai Po—there’s a reservoir there where you can go cycling. That’s a whole day of fun for the family. Then you can head up to the wishing trees in Lam Tsuen. I also like to go to Sai Kung a lot. Apart from the seafood restaurants, I like the roadside Sai Sha Café (10C Sai Sha Rd., Nai Chung Village, Sai Kung, 2641-8029)—it’s a mix of Chinese, Thai and Indian. It suits everybody.

If you had just HK $100 to spend, what would you do? I would do what the locals do: use the number 11 bus. Number 11 bus means your legs! You can kill a whole day exploring. One walk I like guests to do is to take the Star Ferry and walk up to the tram, then go through the lanes to the Central–Mid-Levels Escalator; take it up and come back down Ladder Street. Everyone who does this route comes back happy.

What’s your favorite date venue in Hong Kong? I like Spices, at The Verandah in Repulse Bay, where you can sit outside. It offers Asian cuisine—a little bit of everything. It’s a nice place to be. When I look to impress people, I go there.

What’s the etiquette on tipping in Hong Kong? There’s no etiquette on tipping. If you don’t tip anybody, nobody is going to be upset. It’s really up to you. Or with a taxi we say round it up.

18 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2721-1211

Big Buddha

Big Buddha — Beside Po Lin Monastery on Lantau Island is the Big Buddha—the largest seated outdoor bronze Buddha in the world. The statue is set amid mountains and hiking trails, and looks absolutely stunning on a clear day from the Ngong Ping cable car. Nearby is The Wisdom Path, lined with wood carvings featuring calligraphy from an important text for Confucians, Buddhists and Taoists. The vegetarian restaurant within the monastery is the best option if you're famished. Ngong Ping Village, Lantau Island, 2985-5248. Chi Lin Nunnery — An oasis of peace in the heart of Kowloon, this graceful, wooden Buddhist nunnery is the largest building in the world to be constructed using no nails—only wooden dowels and brackets. It's a 33,000-square-meter complex whose architectural style dates back to the Tang Dynasty, although the buildings themselves were completed in 1998. It's centered on a courtyard filled with lotus ponds, and a stroll through the gardens makes for a bucolic escape. Vegetarian food is available in a quaint teahouse. 5 Chi Lin Drive, Diamond Hill, 2354-1888. Fa Yuen Street — Heaving with bargain hunters every afternoon, Fa Yuen Street is stuffed with cheap fashion boutiques, factory outlets and accessories stores for men, women and children. Fa Yuen St., Prince Edward.

Tai Po Reservoir

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Hong Kong Observation Wheel — The city now has its own ferris wheel right by Victoria Harbour, for those who can't get enough of Hong Kong's stunning skyline. 33 Man Kwong St., Central.

Navigate Hong Kong Park — This 8-hectare park has a large walk-through aviary, a conservatory housing unusual and exotic plants, sports and squash centers, a multi-story playground, a tai chi garden and a clock tower. In the conservation corner are more than 100 species of dragonflies. Also worth visiting are the Flagstaff House Museum of Tea Ware and the Hong Kong Visual Arts Centre. 19 Cotton Tree Drive, Central, 2521-5041. Hong Kong Wetland Park — This worldclass ecotourism attraction demonstrates the diversity of Hong Kong's wetlands, and the importance of conservation. It's a 61-hectare site with user-friendly facilities such as a stream walk, succession walk, mangrove boardwalk and bird hides. Wetland Park Rd., Tin Shui Wai, 3152-2666. Jade Market — In Chinese culture, jade is associated with good health and a long life. The jade market stalls sell everything from expensive carved jade to cheap trinkets, as well as pearls and other jewelry of varying quality. Kansu St. and Battery St., Yau Ma Tei.

Hong Kong Observation Wheel

Ladies' Market — Find dog toys, trinkets and accessories, racy underwear, costume jewelry and more all along this road. Down the side lanes are vintage shops, fashion outlets and the occasional restaurant. Tung Choi St., Mong Kok. Open daily noon-11:30pm.

Stanley — The seaside town of Stanley has a market, shops, restaurants and bars that line a bay on one side and a beach on the other. It's the perfect place to take a walk along the waterfront, chill at an alfresco resto and pick up souvenirs. Stanley Main St., Stanley.

Lan Kwai Fong — Thankfully closed to cars most of the time, these thoroughfares are jam-packed full of bars and nightclubs, with revelers spilling out into the streets at all hours. Attracting yuppies and visitors like moths to a flame, a good night out in Lan Kwai Fong is almost guaranteed. Lan Kwai Fong, near D'Aguilar St., Central.

Tai O — It would be wishful thinking to describe this fishing village as a Venice of the East, but there's no doubting the charm of its maze of stilt houses built over a creek on the northwestern coast of Lantau Island. It's a fascinating slice of old Hong Kong, with dried fish stalls, trays of smelly shrimp paste, a picturesque Tin Hau Temple at the end of a causeway and a couple of interesting little museums. A boutique hotel and restaurant add a touch of colonial elegance to the traditional town. Lantau Island.

Mai Po Marshes — Who knew that Hong Kong was a bird-watcher's paradise? The 1,500-hectare Mai Po Marshes reserve is run by the World Wildlife Fund and is a designated Wetland of International Importance thanks to the thousands of migratory wading birds passing through each autumn and winter. Mai Po Nature Reserve, Yuen Long, 2482-0369.

Man Mo Temple

Man Mo Temple — This atmospheric temple must be one of the most photographed in Hong Kong. Great incense spirals dangle from the rafters, filling the roof space with aromatic smoke and lending a deep patina to the statues of gods Man Cheong (god of literature) and Kuan Ti (god of martial arts, or Mo) on the altars. 126 Hollywood Rd., near Ladder St., Sheung Wan.

Ngong Ping 360

Ngong Ping 360 — This kitschy, culturalthemed village features dining, retail and entertainment attractions. The cable car offers panoramic views as it passes over North Lantau Country Park to the Big Buddha. 111 Ngong Ping Rd., Lantau Island, 3666-0606. Ocean Park — Get up close and personal with a dolphin or a panda, walk through a shark tank, dive into a coral reef or whirl upside down on a roller coaster. Located near Aberdeen, Ocean Park manages to amuse and educate with its marine and bird life exhibits, giant panda enclosure, wild headland rides and a cable car trip between the park's two sections. 180 Wong Chuk Hang Rd., Aberdeen, 2552-0291.

Ten Thousand Buddhas

Peak Tram — There was a time when the best way up The Peak was by sedan chair— a grueling experience, particularly for the bearers. So the arrival of the Peak Tram was a blessing, one for which we are still thankful. The little funicular railway is one of the best trips in town, panting up Hong Kong Island's tallest mountain at a seemingly impossible angle that enchants all aboard. Sit on the right for the best views. St. Joseph's Building, Central, 2522-0922.

Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery — One of the most celebrated monasteries in Hong Kong, the Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery actually has more than 12,800 Buddhas stored in five temples, four pavilions and a nine-storey pagoda. The one you're likely to remember best is the mummified Buddhist monk, who sits in splendor, coated in gold leaf, inside a glass case. Light meals are served at the on-site vegetarian restaurant. Sha Tin, 2691-1067.

Sha Tin Racecourse — Join the screaming hordes at Happy Valley and Sha Tin racecourses for a few adrenalin-fueled hours. Mingle with the masses in the stands, or opt for the more refined atmosphere in the boxes. The season runs September to mid-June, with about 700 races a year, held an average of twice a week.

Wong Tai Sin Temple — Named after the deity Wong Tai Sin, this Taoist temple completed its restoration in 1973 and is a popular shrine for local pilgrims who want to glimpse their future via a Chinese practice called "kau cim." Lung Cheung Rd., Wong Tai Sin, 2327-8141. A P R I L 2 015 I WHERE H ONG KONG 45

Walking Tours | The Guide

An EverChanging Landscape Follow this guided walk and stroll through land brought into existence by various reclamation projects, plus discover the nightlife district made famous (or infamous) by the legend of Suzie Wong.

Y Start at Wan Chai MTR Station, exit A3, and cross Johnston Road.

Tai Yuen Street Market

The Blue House The Blue House was also known as the Wah Tor Temple and is believed to be the first facility to provide Traditional Chinese Medicine to the area’s inhabitants. This is about where the coastline was from 1842 to 1890. Y Walk back down Stone Nullah Lane to

study and is said to have helped traders and fishermen avoid natural disasters. Open 8am-5:30pm daily. Y Cross Queen’s Road East and head down Tai Wong Street East until you reach Johnston Road.

Southorn Playground

Queen’s Road East, and turn left.

Old Wan Chai Post Office

Experience the hustle and bustle of a local market where on-street hawkers sell a wide range of dry goods and household merchandise at bargain prices. Stalls are open from 7am to 7pm daily. Y Walk straight up Tai Yuen Street, turn left and walk along Queen’s Road East to Wan Chai Road. Cross Queen’s Road East and turn onto Stone Nullah Lane. 46 W H E R E HONG KONG I A pril 2 015

This single-story L-shaped building constructed between 1912 and 1913, was once a police station. In 1915 it became the Wan Chai Post Office. Listed as a Declared Monument in 1990, it is now a resource center belonging to the Environmental Protection Department. Y Continue along Queen’s Road East.

Hung Shing Temple Once only a small altar on a boulder overlooking the shoreline, this petite temple is named after a virtuous official who governed during the Tang dynasty (618-906 AD). He encouraged scientific

This popular playground was built on reclaimed land just north of Johnston Road. Britain’s Royal Navy used it during World War II. Later, in the 50s and 60s, schoolchildren had their lessons here, and laborers gathered waiting for jobs. In the 50s it was fenced off and became a government-sanctioned playground. Now you’re where the coastline was from 1930 to 1945.

Y Cut across Southorn Garden to Hennessy Road, then walk along Luard Road to Lockhart Road.

Lockhart Road The “World of Suzie Wong” and the bars of Wan Chai are now mixed up with trendy restaurants, bars and late-night party places. The coastline extended up to here from 1960 to 1972. Y Walk along Fenwick Street towards the water and cross the footbridge.

Hong Kong Academy for Performing Arts This institution offers professional training in the performing arts and hosts a wide variety of concerts. Y Follow the direction signs and cross Fenwick Street to reach Harbour Road.

Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre One of the city’s most unmistakable sights because of its gull-shaped roof. Land was reclaimed in 1980 to build it. Y Following the signs, turn left and walk northward along Fleming Road and Expo Drive East to Golden Bauhinia Square.

Golden Bauhinia Square The “forever blooming bauhinia,” standing on the Expo Promenade outside the HKCEC on land reclaimed in 1990, is a gift from the Chinese central government to commemorate the establishment of the Hong Kong Special Administrative Region on July 1, 1997, after the handover from Britain. Nearby stands the Reunification Monument. Catch the official daily flag-raising at Golden Bauhinia Square from 7:50am to 8:03am.

HONG KONG TAKE HONG KONG WITH YOU, EVER YOUR TRAVELS MAY TAKE YOU. Subscribe to WHERE Hong Kong’s eBook edition and have every issue delivered straight to your inbox, once monthly. tiny.cc/whk-ebook

For more Hong Kong walks, visit www.discoverhongkong.com or call the HKTB hotline on 2508-1234.

A pril 2 015 I WHERE H ONG KONG 47

map of Central ÂŠ OpenStreetMap contributors. See openstreetmap.org

48 W H E R E HONG KONG I A P R I L 2 015

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20 Things we LOve about Hong Kong 1

1 Marveling at the beautiful Chi Lin Nunnery, the world’s largest building constructed without nails. 5 Chi Lin Drive, Diamond Hill, 2354-1604. 2 Dining aboard the kitschycool Jumbo Floating Restaurant. Shum Wan Pier Drive, Wong Chuk Hang, Aberdeen, 2553-9111. 3 Exploring Lamma Island, then feasting on deep-fried squid at Rainbow Seafood. 16-24 First St., Sok Kwu Wan, Lamma Island, 2982-8100. 4 Snaking through the high-rises on the Mid-Levels Escalator—the longest in the world. Cochrane, Shelley and Peel Streets, Central. 5 Riding the cable car 5.7 kilometers over Lantau’s lush valleys to visit the Ngong Ping cultural-themed village and the Big Buddha.

6 Watching the sunset from tranquil Pui O Beach, Lantau Island. 7 Taking a walk down the Historic Trail at the Museum of Coastal Defence. 2569-1500. 8 Eating with the locals at a dai pai dong food stall. Stanley Street, Central.

!3 Haggling with hawkers for jade, gold and cheap jewelry at the Jade Market. Kansu and Battery Streets, Yau Ma Tei.

!8 Stopping for tea at Fook Ming Tong Tea Shop. Shop 3316, 3/F, The Gateway, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2735-1077.

!4 Dressing up for high tea at The Peninsula. Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-3169.

!9 Marveling at the Symphony of Lights over Victoria Harbour.

!5 Doing some late-night shopping on Sai Yeung Choi Street, Mong Kok.

9 Buying noodles and having our palms read at the Temple Street Night Market, Yau Ma Tei. !6 Taking a walk in Hong Kong Park. 19 Cotton !0 Cruising Victoria Tree Drive, Central. Harbour on the Duk Ling, an authentic Chinese junk. !7 Snacking on egg tarts 2573-5282. at Tai Cheong Bakery. 32 Lyndhurst Terrace, !1 Being entertained by the Central, 2554-3475. intriguing performances and exhibitions at the Fringe Club. 2 Lower Albert Rd., Central, 2521-7251.

@0 Checking out the old Kowloon-Canton Railway clocktower. Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui.

!2 Taking one of the oldest rides in Hong Kong— a tram from Western to Causeway Bay. !2 50 W H E R E HONG KONG I A P R I L 2 015

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