WHERE Hong Kong - February 2015 by WHERE Hong Kong

February 2015 the complete guide to goÂŽ

Hong Kong

Top dim sum halls Tips for the perfect suit Valentineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Day specials

Rock the Goat Celebrate the Year of the Goat with fireworks, flower markets and dazzling lion dances

where Hong Kong 2.2015 ®

the guide

06 Hot Dates Hong Kong’s hottest concerts, shows and events

14 ESSENTIALS A quintessential Hong Kong experience

18 art + culture Top galleries and our pick of what’s happening

24 dining Your A-Z of the best eats in town

32 Drinks Our favorite places to sip cocktails

46 Walking Tour Explore a neighborhood on foot

48 Map Central

Also inside

features 18 Rock the Goat Celebrate the Year of the Goat

34 Shops + services From mega malls to local designers 42 NAVIGATE Fast facts and essential info 50 30 THINGS WE LOVE Hong Kong’s all-time top spots and best experiences

25 A Meal for L’amour Valentine’s Day specials

36 Bespoke

on the cover February 2015 the complete guide to go®

Hong Kong

Tips for the perfect suit

Top dim sum halls Tips for the perfect suit Valentine’s Day specials

Rock the Goat Celebrate the Year of the Goat with fireworks, flower markets and dazzling lion dances

wheretraveler.com The website from the editors of Where Magazine.

Chinese New Year is all about big meals, going to the flower markets, watching lion dances and enjoying some world-class fireworks in the city. See our handy guide on what to do and where to go on p.10. Also check out p.24 for CNY meals.

Get all the latest city buzz from our experts—info only the locals know.

F e b r u a r y 2 015 I WHERE hong ko n g 3

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maga z ine

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HONG KONG

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Painted Pottery Fat Lady Figure Tang Dynasty

early pottery ceramics sculptures authenticated museum and collector quality

hot dates Hong Kong By Evelyn Lok

Feb 27 Onwards Artward Bound The Hong Kong Arts Festival returns for its 43rd run from February to March. This year, some of the most respected orchestras will be performing, including the world’s oldest—the Staatskapelle Dresden—plus artists ranging from the queen of arias Joyce DiDonato to 10-time Grammy Award-winner Bobby McFerrin. There are also three unmissable productions by the Bolshoi Opera and Ballet, and plenty of local theater to look forward to. Feb 27-Mar 29. Various programs. See www.hk.artsfestival.org for more information.

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hot dates February 13 Onwards

February 6-8

The Young and the Restless

In the Mood for Love The Hong Kong Chinese Orchestra presents two concert series in honor of Valentine’s Day and Spring Lantern Festival (the Chinese V-Day), featuring local stars Liza Wang and Ivy Ling Po. On the bill are audience favorites from the Huangmei Opera as well as romantic classics. For the occasion, the HKCO is offering a V-Day dinner and concert package with the Michelin-starred restaurant Yan Toh Heen. Feb 13-14, 8pm. Concert Hall, Cultural Centre, Tsim Sha Tsui. Dinner and concert: $4,250 from 3185-1647. Mar 6-7, 8pm. Auditorium, Tsuen Wan Town Hall, 72 Tai Ho Rd., Tsuen Wan. $150-400 from www.urbtix.hk. www.hkco.org.

Renowned Hong Kong dance choreographer Yuri Ng teams up with five dancers from the Hong Kong Dance Company to present “Shao Nian Yau,” or an “aimless wandering of youth.” It’s a staging of stories of three generations of dancers, exploring the transient nature of a dancer’s life, as well as attempting to breathe new life into the heritage of classic Chinese dance in Hong Kong. Feb 6-7, 7:45pm; Feb 8, 3pm. Auditorium, Kwai Tsing Theatre, 12 Hing Ning Rd., Kwai Fong. $150-260 from www.urbtix.hk.

February 7 February 1

February 5

One Funny Night Happy Feet

Rhythm and Blues

The world-famous Riverdance Irish dance troupe hung up its dancing shoes in 2011, but apparently not even retirement can stop these fleet-footed fellas. Riverdance is back to celebrate its 20th anniversary by—of course— dancing around the world across seven countries, including 10 stops in China.

The Grammy Award-winning guitar legend Larry Carlton returns to the SAR after his concert here last February. This time, he’s roping in his long-time collaborator Steve Lukather, who’s best known as the guitars and vocals behind the American rock band Toto. Carlton’s smooth jazz-infused playing matches Lukather’s heavier bluesy sounds.

2:30pm; 7:30pm. Grand Theatre, Cultural Centre, 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui. $380-880 from www.urbtix.hk.

8:15pm. Academic Community Hall, Hong Kong Baptist University, 224 Waterloo Rd., Kowloon Tong, 3411-5182. $380-880 from www.cityline.com.

American comedian Bill Burr will be making a pitstop in Hong Kong during his AsiaPacific tour for a one-night-only show. You may have seen the man in TV series “Breaking Bad,” but he’s earned a major following for his insightful stand-up material, often verging on the politically incorrect with his hilariously honest delivery. 9pm. El Charro, Shop 208, The Arcade, 100 Cyberport Rd., Pok Fu Lam. $550 from billburrpunchlinecomedy.ticketflap.com.

F EBRUARY 2 015 I WHERE H ONG KONG 7

Y Y

hot dates Hong Kong February 7 & 11

February 11-14

February 19

Best Western

Girl Talk

A Kick-Start

Local classical chamber collective Western District is known for its eclectic repertoire, which ranges from Mozart to Madonna. It will be playing an evening of thrilling tango on February 7, and on February 11, it will debut its Fringe Club concert series with “From Russia With Love,” a classical Russian program… with a dash of James Bond, of course.

Part of a global theater event that raises money and awareness to stop violence against women, “V-Day Hong Kong” will present the famous “Vagina Monologues” by Eve Ensler, who was also the founder of the global V-Day initiative. All of the proceeds will go to HK Helpers Campaign, a local charity supporting the rights of foreign domestic workers.

With football (or soccer) being Hong Kong’s favorite pastime, one of the sporting highlights of the year is none other than the Lunar New Year Cup. This year, local mainstays South China FC are up against American team New York Cosmos, for what promises to be plenty of thrilling action on the pitch.

Feb 7, 10pm. Orange Peel, Lan Kwai Fong. $200 from ticketflap.com; $240 at the door; both include one glass of Argentinian wine and three tapas. Feb 11, 9:30pm (doors open 9pm). Fringe Dairy, 2 Lower Albert Rd., Central. $150-180 from venue, includes one drink.

8pm. Premium Sofa Club, B/F, Fui Nam Building, 212-216 Wing Lok St., Sheung Wan. $200 from ticketingover.com; $250 at the door.

February 10

February 12

February 21 Onwards

Indie Darlings

The Sound of Love

Love is in the Aria

Scottish band Belle and Sebastian took melancholy pop to its greatest heights when they formed in 1996. Need your indie fix during your stay? Here’s your chance to see the ever-gloomy Stuart Murdoch and co. bring their characteristically twee misanthropy to the Hong Kong winter.

The sister group of The Hong Kong Women’s Choir, The Grace Notes, focuses on bringing regular a cappella programs to town. Ahead of Valentine’s Day, the ladies will be performing a one-night-only concert called “The Reasons I Love You.” Ticket price includes open bar with standard drinks, plus a buffet selection of hot and cold canapés.

After a first successful run, the Rising Stars of Cantonese Opera Showcase sees local actor and Cantonese opera artist Law Kar-ying select 12 promising new stars and curate 10 performances by these rising voices. Watch full-length productions such as family epic “Madame She,” or go see excerpts from the classics.

7:45pm (cocktail starts 7pm). Club Lusitano, 27/F, Ice House St., Central, 9674-9181. $100-$450 from info@thkwc.org.

Feb 21-Mar 2, 7:30pm. Ko Shan Theatre New Wing, 77 Ko Shan Rd., Hung Hom. $80-180 from www.urbtix.com.

8pm. AsiaWorld-Arena, Sky Plaza Rd., Chek Lap Kok, 3606-8828. $760 from www.hkticketing.com.

8 W H E R E HONG KONG I F EBRUARY 2 015

Feb 19, 3:15pm. Hong Kong Stadium, So Kon Po, Causeway Bay. $30-280 from www.cityline.com. For more events in Chinese New Year, see p.10.

W W W. S E V V A . H K

Rock Goat the

You’ve picked the best time to visit Hong Kong: Chinese New Year. Celebrate the Year of the Goat with parades, flower markets and a whole lot of fireworks. By Where Staff

hile western New Year celebrations around the world closed with a bang on January 1, families across Asia are preparing for the bigger and more colorful Lunar New Year festivities—arguably Hong Kong’s best holiday. It’s a time for you to recollect the past and make way for a new year of good fortune. Hong Kong’s Chinese New Year festivities, which last for 15 days until the Spring Lantern Festival, certainly don’t disappoint, and it’s the perfect time to experience the city’s culture in full force. This year, the first day of the Year of the Goat—the gentlest of the 12 zodiac animals—falls on February 19. Around town, you’ll find that the city is abuzz with preparations. You can buy seasonal decorations and flowers at the numerous Chinese New Year’s markets around town, revel in the bright colors at the yearly parade and lantern festivals, wow at the best fireworks display of the year, and uncover what’s in store for the next year when you visit a temple. Read our guide to making the most of the city this month.

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Party Time

Back to the Future

One of the major highlights of the festival is the spectacular Cathay Pacific International Chinese New Year Night Parade. This year marks the 20th edition of the yearly parade, where dance and acrobatic performances, as well as traditional lion dances accompany numerous colorful floats. The fanfare will start from the Hong Kong Cultural Centre piazza at 8pm. The floats will then be showcased in Lam Tsuen village until the end of the Chinese New Year festival. Don’t miss out, and be sure to grab a free spot along the parade, if you haven’t already nabbed tickets to the spectator stands.

Many locals still observe the age-old custom of visiting a temple on the first day of the Lunar New Year—in order to give thanks for the past 12 months and pray for a harmonious coming year. People go to great lengths to visit Che Kung Miu Temple or Sik Sik Wong Tai Sin Temple (see p.46) in the early morning to present the year’s first offerings. At Che Kung Miu in particular, you can purchase colorful handheld windmills, which are said to help turn your luck around. At a temple you can also try your hand at shaking a fortune stick from a bamboo cannister—the one that falls out signifies your forecast for the new year. Another popular excursion is to the wishing trees in Lam Tsuen, a village in Tai Po. Here you can write your wish on colored paper, tie it to an orange, and

Feb 19, 8-9:30pm. For information on spectator tickets, visit www. discoverhongkong.com in early February. Viewing along the parade route is free.

toss it into the branches—if it doesn’t land there successfully within three tries, it’s said that you’re being too greedy. Last, try Man Mo Temple, which honors the deities of literature (Man) and war (Mo). It’s one of the oldest and most beautiful temples in Hong Kong, known for its iconic steaming coils of incense. Che Kung Miu Temple, Che Kung Miu Road, Tai Wai, 2697-2660. Sik Sik Wong Tai Sin Temple, 2 Chuk Yuen Village, Wong Tai Sin, 2327-8141. Lam Tsuen Wishing Trees, Tin Hau Temple Road, Tai Po. Man Mo Temple, Hollywood Road near Ladder Street, Sheung Wan.

Playing With Fire What would any celebration be without fireworks? Hong Kong puts on an excellent spectacle over the harbor every year for its largest public holidays, and the Chinese New Year fireworks are arguably the best. The pyrotechnic display is launched from three barges located at strategic intervals along the harbor: all the better for them to be seen from all over Hong Kong Island and Kowloon. The most popular viewing spot is the Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront. Grab your jacket and hunker down to the water’s edge early for the optimal spot.

dance to ring in the new year, plus a range of colorful performances. On this day, the jockeys also come out to greet fans with good luck messages for the new year. Feb 21, 12-6pm. Sha Tin Racecourse, Sha Tin. $10 for admission to the public enclosure; $130 (for tourists who present valid travel documents) to sit in the Hong Kong Jockey Club members’ enclosure. Call 1817 or visit www.hkjc.com for more information.

Flower Power

Feb 20, 8pm. Victoria Harbour. Call 2591-1340, or visit www.lcsd.gov.hk/eo for more information.

Amazing Race

City of Lights

The annual Lunar New Year race is easily Hong Kong’s most important horse-racing event of the year. Besides the main race— the Chinese New Year Cup—there’s also a packed program of celebrations, from the grand opening show, to the essential lion

The Chinese New Year hoopla comes to a close on the 15th day of the new lunar month (March 5 this year), or Spring Lantern Festival. It also marks one of two informal Chinese Valentine’s Days in Chinese tradition, supposedly an auspicious day for matchmaking and romance. In honor of the Spring Lantern Festival, the city will celebrate with multiple lantern carnivals, where many public parks and piazzas across Hong Kong will be strung up with warm and festive lanterns. Not sure where to find them? Tsim Sha Tsui’s Cultural Centre Piazza is a good place to start.

Flowers pay a huge part in the Chinese New Year traditions, celebrating the onset of spring. In preparation for the big event, locals tend to buy sweet-smelling daffodils (or narcissus)—a CNY staple—a couple of weeks ahead so that they bloom in time for relatives visiting on New Year’s Day. Other flowers also signify good luck for the New Year: kumquat trees and peonies are believed to bring prosperity; while peach blossoms symbolize luck in romance and marriage—especially if the petals fall on you as you walk by! Families also like to take a stroll through the flower markets dotted around the city after a big dinner on New Year’s Eve to browse through the assorted decorations, quirky accessories and children’s toys also on sale. Fourteen parks and playgrounds across Hong Kong hold flower markets, but the largest are at Victoria Park in Causeway Bay and at Boundary Street Flower Market (Fa Hui) in Prince Edward. Feb 13-19. The best time to go is 6-9pm. The markets close before noon on the 19th.

Feb 12-Mar 22. Various times and venues. Call 2591-1340, or visit www.lcsd.gov.hk/eo for more information.

F EBRUARY 2 015 I WHERE H ONG KONG 11

Beginner’s Guide to CNY Six things you need to know.

The Goat

Firecrackers

Lion Dance

The Goat is the eighth animal of the Chinese Zodiac, and is generally considered a lucky animal (it rhymes with the Chinese word yang, which means luck). Like the animal itself, those born in the Year of the Goat (1931, 1943, 1955, 1967, 1979, 1991, 2003) are said to be calm, filial, at times quite shy, and with a nurturing side. If this is you, this is your year: Goats are expected to have good fortune in all walks of life: from health to money, romance to career.

Loud and exciting, setting off firecrackers is believed to startle and ward off evil spirits. Though prohibited in Hong Kong, many decorations are still shaped in their honor.

The main dancer wears a massive, ornate lion’s head, while another person, who trails behind, undulates under the tail. These performers, who often come from Chinese martial arts schools, dance around pretending to scavenge for auspicious fruits and veggies (oranges and lettuce) as well as lai see envelopes of money. The ritual is believed to bring fortune and luck to those who request it; it is often performed at public festivals in certain Hong Kong neighborhoods and even in some office buildings.

Lai See These decorated goldand-red envelopes are everywhere during the Lunar New Year. Married people or elders put crisp new bank notes inside the packets and present them to children and younger single folks. The bright red color is meant to bring good luck to both the giver and receiver.

Tangerines Tangerines are both eaten and given as gifts throughout the holiday as they symbolize wealth and luck. They make great gifts when you visit someone’s home during the holiday. Similarly, kumquat plants are often seen to decorate storefronts and public areas.

“Gung Hei Fat Choy” In translation this exclamatory phrase means, “Have a prosperous and fortunate year!” The passing of the winter solstice and the start of spring is very symbolic in Chinese culture, as it marks the end of last year’s bad luck and a new beginning filled with hope. The saying is often used when saying hello or goodbye during the holiday.

With every Lunar New Year comes a new edition of the Chinese almanac, a book much-esteemed and sought out for regular family consultation. Check out what’s in store this month. Good for opening 1 a business or shop FEB and signing contracts; bad for breaking in a new bed, or traveling abroad.

Good for visiting 9 ancestors’ graves and FEB building houses; bad for attending funerals.

Good for getting 2 married and cleaning FEB the home; bad for attending funerals.

A good day for a wedding or FEB opening a business; bad for buying property and planting crop.

Good for opening a business; bad for FEB a maiden voyage on a boat.

Good for visiting graves or burying FEB the deceased; bad for making wine.

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Good for visiting graves or getting FEB your hair done; bad for a wedding, having important conversations or dealings in court.

Good for trade and traveling abroad; FEB bad for opening a new business, and taking off funeral attire.

Good for visiting graves and meeting friends; FEB bad for renovating or fixing your kitchen, or taking up a new role.

Good for meeting up with friends or FEB settling into a new place; bad for buying land, or attending a funeral.

Good for breaking down or renovating the FEB house or outer fence; bad for everything else!

Good for praying for luck at a temple, and FEB holding a wedding; bad for brewing alcohol and opening a business.

Good for opening a business and praying FEB for fortune; bad for holding banquets and arguments.

Good for praying for good fortune FEB and enrolling in school; Bad for a wedding and planting new crop.

Essentials | The Guide

Snack Attack

Check out these dim sum halls for the quintessential Hong Kong experience. By Adele Wong

Above and Beyond

Maxim’s Palace City Hall

A sky-high Cantonese resto offering splendid views, Above and Beyond is a cozy space to chow down on some quality dim sum. To please Instagrammers, there’s a bit of fancy western influence in the presentation of some of the dishes, from starters to desserts.

This Central institution is grand, packed, and the epitome of the yum cha experience. Hot bamboo steamers stacked on top of each other are rolled out on metal trolleys zig-zagging across the room. If you don’t see what you want, wave down one of the servers and they might be able to secure your dish straight from the kitchen. Because Maxim’s is such a popular establishment, be prepared to queue during lunch hours and weekends.

28/F, Hotel Icon, 17 Science Museum Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3400-1318. Above and Beyond

Fook Lam Moon This tycoon’s diner is still a firm favorite among the locals. The prices might not be cheap, but you do get your money’s worth in terms of the quality of the dishes. The spring rolls are fried to perfection, the char siu is juicy, and the mango puddings are made with real fruit. Multiple locations, including Shop 8, 1/F, Kimberley Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-0286.

The Grand Stage A second-floor dim sum hall in the beautiful Western Market building, The Grand Stage is frequented as much for its dim sum as for its ambience. High ceilings, brick walls and indoor lampposts give the restaurant a vaguely colonial vibe. The food, from the steamed beancurd rolls to the deep-fried tofu, is solid and satisfying. Fook Lam Moon

2/F, Western Market, 323 Des Voeux Rd. Central, Sheung Wan, 2815-2311.

2/F, Low Block, City Hall, 5 Edinburgh Place, Central, 2521-1303.

Tim Ho Wan Known first and foremost as the cheapest Michelin-starred restaurant chain in the world, Tim Ho Wan is a must-try for locals and tourists alike. Brave the lines for the amazing baked barbecue park buns with crispy golden tops and smooth-as-velvet rice noodle rolls. Multiple locations, including 9-11 Fuk Wing St., Sham Shui Po, 2788-1226.

Duddell’s Dumplings are fancified (black truffles, anyone?), and abalone and other Cantonese delicacies feature generously in the dim sum dishes at Duddell’s. The space is comfortable and casual, but the artwork hanging on the walls brings that all up a notch. 3-4/F, Shanghai Tang Mansion, 1 Duddell St., Central, 2525-9191.

The Square The Square is a spacious venue on the fourth floor of Two Exchange Square, and has been a Michelin Guide favorite for years. The dim sum menu is comprehensive, and you’ll be able to find the staple steamed beef balls and dumplings as well as larger dishes like fried noodles and suckling pig with rice crackers.

Duddell’s 14 W H E R E HONG KONG I F EBRUARY 2 015

4/F, Two Exchange Square, 8 Connaught Place, Central, 2525-1163.

Essentials

Social Place This quirky venue serves dim sum with a twist: for instance, steamed buns look like wrinkled mushrooms, and slices of bone-in chicken are served in glass jars. The venue itself looks nothing like the traditional Cantonese banquet halls—instead, you’re getting long, rectangular communal tables and cool-toned furniture. Social Place

Guo Fu Lou

Sportful Garden

Deep purple and red tones give Guo Fu Lou an almost imperial vibe—which perfectly suits its haughty dim sum dishes. The classics are largely unaltered, executed with skill and precision. Steamed buns come with silky smooth skins, and even the teas taste more delicate here.

This failsafe chain has speedy service, plenty of tables at its many locations, and all the dim sum dishes you would want to order. There are also plenty of braised, roasted and steamed seafood and poultry specialties available.

Empire Hotel Hong Kong, 33 Hennessy Rd., Wan Chai, 2861-2060.

Multiple locations, including 1-2/F, Golden Centre, 188 Des Voeux Rd. Central, Sheung Wan, 2851-3381.

Lin Heung Tea House

Metropol

Lin Heung Tea House on Wellington Street is for those of us who are nostalgic for the good ol’ days. The establishment doesn’t look like it’s changed much over the decades—including the wooden tables and chairs that look positively ancient. Diners are encouraged to wash their own bowls and utensils at the table, and dishes are served in bamboo steamers darkened with age.

One of the remaining dim sum houses that still serves its dishes from trolleys, Metropol is a true gem for team lunches and family brunches alike. For even more interaction, head to the demonstration stations and take your pick of the freshly cooked dishes on offer. 4/F, United Centre, 95 Queensway, Admiralty, 2865-1988.

160-164 Wellington St., Central, 2544-4556.

Heichinrou

Mott 32 Hip, dark, and exclusive: that’s Mott 32 in a nutshell. Although this basement Chinese restaurant stocks a lot of wide-ranging dishes, from sweet and sour pork to Peking duck, there is also a dim sum menu of baked, steamed and fried goods available.

If you’re looking for dim sum in a slightly fancier setting without breaking the bank, the Japan-originated Heichinrou would be a good bet. The har gau dumplings are neatly pleated, the spring rolls are perfectly symmetrical, and the portions are generally more delicate (read: smaller).

B/F, Standard Chartered Bank Building, 4-4A Des Voeux Rd. Central, 2885-8688.

Multiple locations, including G-1/F, Nexxus Building, 41 Connaught Rd. Central, 2868-9229.

2/F, The L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3568-9666.

Super Star Seafood Restaurant This local chain isn’t anything fancy, and that’s what we love about it. Make your marks on the order sheets, and within minutes piles of steaming bamboo containers will be unloaded onto your table. The turnip cakes might be a bit greasy and the presentation somewhat sloppy, but a good meal you’ll always have. Multiple locations, including 2/F, Oxford House, Tai Koo Place, 979 King’s Rd. Quarry Bay, 2628-0110.

Dynasty This age-old institution has recently undergone a revamp, and now you’ll find sophisticated carpets, tasteful artwork on the walls and dark and handsome furniture. The famous lipsmacking char siu is still on the menu, complete with the perfect lean-to-fat ratio. 3/F, Renaissance Harbour View Hotel Hong Kong, 1 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, 2584-6971.

Terms to Know Yum Cha – Literally meaning “Drink Tea” in Cantonese, this term refers to the act of going for a dim sum meal. Har Gau – Steamed prawn dumplings in translucent white skins. Siu Mai –Steamed pork dumplings in bright yellow skins. Char Siu Bao – Steamed barbecue pork buns with thick white skins.

Mott 32

Heichinrou

Mm Goi, Mai Dan – Yell this out when you’re ready to go. It means, “The bill, please.” F EBRUARY 2 015 I WHERE H ONG KONG 15

where

the guide Think Pink Got post-V-Day blues? Not to worry, as ToTT's comes to the rescue with a pink-themed free-flow champagne brunch that's sure to make you blush. Enjoy fresh berry tarts, delectable cupcakes and all-you-can-drink Veuve Clicquot rosĂŠ alongside a scrumptious seafood spread on February 15 from 11:30am-3pm, all for $788 per person. ToTT's and Roof Terrace, The Excelsior, 281 Gloucester Rd., Causeway Bay, 2837-6786.

Art+culture | The Guide

A Fresh Take Check out two shows by recently re-opened galleries. By Evelyn Lok

Masters of the Euroverse Newcomer to the Hollywood Road art block is La Galerie, founded by Cyril Delettre and Marie-Florence Gros. The gallery’s inaugural exhibition last month featured French photographer Vincent Fournier. This month, the gallery will feature original prints by none other than world-famous art icon, Picasso. Feb 5-Mar 17. La Galerie, 74 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2540-4777. Picasso

Lighten Up Central art gallery mainstay Edouard Malingue Gallery has just relocated from its spot on Queen’s Road Central to a bigger and more fabulous location on Des Voeux Road Central. In celebrating the new opening, the inaugural show “Invisible Light” looks at the ways five established and emerging artists interpret light, both literally and metaphorically. The artists hail from Hong Kong (Ko Sin-tung and João Vasco Paiva) and abroad (Nuri Kuzucan, Eric Baudart, and Jeremy Everett). Invisible Light

ART GALLERIES 10 Chancery Lane Gallery — Founded in 2001, this gallery focuses on established and emerging artists from around the world. Consisting of three large gallery spaces, it not only holds exhibitions of paintings, photographs, installations and videos, but also performances. Featured Hong Kong artists include Simon Birch, William Furniss and Anthony Lam. G/F, 10 Chancery Lane, Central, 2810-0065. 1a Space — Founded in 1998, 1A Space—located in a former cattle shed—is one of the city’s leading contemporary visual art organizations. An independent, non-profit venture established by a group of local artists, it encourages interaction between the art community and the public through frequent exhibitions, seminars, festivals and cultural-exchange programs. Unit 14, Cattle Depot Artist Village, 63 Ma Tau Kok Rd., To Kwa Wan, 2529-0087. AP Contemporary — AP Contemporary is dedicated to supporting up-and-coming contemporary artists, especially those from developing countries like Brazil, Russia, India and China. Having said that, European and American talents are also represented at this space. 28 Tai Ping Shan St., Sheung Wan, 3105-2118.

Jan 15-Mar 7. Edouard Malingue Gallery, 6/F, 33 Des Voeux Rd. Central, 2810-0317.

Above Second — Open since 2010 in Hong Kong, Above Second adds a slice of urban attitude to the city’s vibrant art scene by showing work from art schools or the streets. With a non-stop lineup of international artists in residencies, you’ll see everything from graffiti to graphic design, pop culture to street art here. 9 First St., Sai Ying Pun, 3483-7950. Agnes b. Librairie Galerie — French fashion chain and long-time supporter of the arts, Agnès b. has a contemporary art space dedicated to showing the best from Asia and the world. G/F, 118 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2869-5505. Alisan Fine Arts — This well-established gallery has organized hundreds of exhibitions for Chinese artists from around the world. It also mounts exhibitions for overseas venues. Room 2305, Hing Wai Centre, 7 Tin Wan Praya Rd., Aberdeen, 2526-1091. Art Beatus Gallery — Established in the early 1990s, Art Beatus features mainly original paintings and art by contemporary Chinese artists. Most of its collection has a retro slant, and uses elements of pop, propaganda, illustration and cartoons as vehicles for expression. G/F, 129-133 Wellington St., Central, 2526-0818.

Asia Society Gallery

Asia Society Gallery — Asia Society Hong Kong’s expansive headquarters are in a beautifully refurbished former storehouse for British artillery and ammunition. Playing host to a myriad of lectures, exhibitions, performances, film screenings, tours, seminars and conferences—97 percent of which are open to the public—the Asia Society is a literal treasure trove. 9 Justice Drive, Admiralty, 2103-9511. Ben Brown Fine Arts — After 10 years at Sotheby’s and two more at a private gallery, Ben Brown and his wife sought to go solo and create a space that housed pieces reflective of their tastes—primarily on European modern and contemporary artworks. Unit 301, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2522-9600.

You’ll find some of the best art and antique galleries in town along Hong Kong Island’s Hollywood Road.

18 W H E R E HONG KONG I f e b r u a r y 2 015

Art+culture

Blindspot Gallery

Blindspot Gallery — Blindspot Gallery relocated from its original Central location to this larger industrial warehouse in Aberdeen, on the south side of Hong Kong Island. It’s the setting for large-scale exhibitions, private viewings and special events. 15/F, Po Chai Industrial Building, 28 Wong Chuk Hang Rd., Aberdeen, 2517-6238. Connoisseur Art Gallery — Specializing in contemporary Chinese fine art since 1989, Connoisseur features such acclaimed artists as Paris-based Jia Juan-li, renowned Guangzhou artist Zhang Da-zhong and still life artist Liu Ying-zhao. Shop G3, Chinachem Hollywood Centre, 1 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2868-5358. Contemporary by Angela Li — Perhaps best known for introducing Chinese artists Chen Jiagang and Liao Yibai to the art world, CBAL boasts a lovely space and carefully curated exhibitions. G/F, 248 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 3571-8200. de Sarthe Gallery — Specializing in the sale of 19th and 20th century masters, previous exhibitions have shown the works of art world greats such as Miro, Picasso and Chu Teh-chun, just to name a few. First opening in Paris in 1977 and branching out across the US and Europe, de Sarthe finally opened its first Asian outpost in Hong Kong in 2011. 8/F, Club Lusitano Building, 16 Ice House St., Central, 2167-8896. Erarta Gallery — Opened in November 2014, Erarta gallery Hong Kong is the fifth branch of the global purveyor of Russian contemporary arts, and the very first branch of the gallery group in Asia. Its massive two-story, 300-squaremeter space provides ample opportunity to showcase the more than 150 represented artists from across 30 regions of Russia. 159 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2685-5199.

F11 Photographic Museum

F11 Photographic Museum — This museum, housed in a three-story restored Art Deco building, is dedicated purely to the art of photography. Following a strong debut in 2014 with world-renowned works by Elliot Erwitt, the museum aims to show pivotal works from international and regional greats and up-and-coming photographers. Check out its vintage Leica camera exhibit and library on the third floor. Appointments are essential, and include a free guided tour. 11 Yuk Sau St., Happy Valley, 6516-1122.

Fabrik Contemporary Art — The gallery that first brought Banksy to Hong Kong’s shores in 2008, Fabrik Contemporary Art has moved to a permanent space in Sheung Wan. Focusing primarily on Western contemporary art, it houses colorful, pop-inspired works by Banksy, Takashi Murakami, Romero Britto and their first local Hong Kong artist, Kako Peco. Unit 1102, Nam Wo Hong Building, 148 Wing Lok St., Sheung Wan, 2525-4911. Flagstaff House Museum of Teaware — Located in Flagstaff House, the oldest surviving colonial building in the territory, and once the home of the commander-in-chief of British forces in Hong Kong, the museum houses a prized Asian teaware collection. It’s also home to Lock Cha Tea House, which serves myriad varieties of tea and delicate vegetarian dim sum in a cute Chinese-style setting. Hong Kong Park, 10 Cotton Tree Drive, Central, 2869-0690. Gagosian Gallery — With 14 galleries and counting, the famed Gagosian has chosen Hong Kong as its gateway to Asia. It opened its doors in January 2011 with a bang, featuring an allnew exhibition by Damien Hirst—Gagosian only exhibits the crème de la crème of the art world. 7/F, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2151-0555.

Galerie Koo

Galerie Koo — Founded in 2012, Galerie Koo focuses on contemporary art that’s all about beauty and colors, and represents established and rising star artists from across Europe and Asia. 7/F, Vogue Building, 67 Wyndham St., Central, 2525-0331. Galerie du Monde — Specializing in modern and contemporary Chinese art, and a champion of up-and-coming talents, Galerie du Monde is known for innovative exhibits that cross mediums: from sculpture to photography, paper media to canvas. Room 108, 1/F, Ruttonjee Centre, 11 Duddell St., Central, 2525-0529. Grotto Fine Art — Curated by Henry Auyeung, a specialist in 20th-century Chinese art history, this gallery exclusively represents local Chinese artists, with a particular interest in the new and avant-garde art forms. You’ll find paintings, sculptures, prints and photography, mixed-media and conceptual installation pieces. 31C-D, 2/F, Wyndham St., Central, 2121-2270. Hanart TZ Gallery — A specialist in contemporary Chinese art, Hanart has exhibited works in oil, ink, print, sculpture, photography and video by internationally recognized mainland, Taiwanese and Hong Kong artists. It offers a wide selection and prices that accommodate almost everyone. Room 407, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2526-9019.

Lehmann Maupin — With an original branch in New York and a longtime reputation for supporting contemporary art and culture, the Lehmann Maupin Gallery opened its doors here to much fanfare. Architect Rem Koolhaas designed the gallery, making sure to keep the historic columns in the Pedder Building intact. Unit 407, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2530-0025. Lumenvisum — Established in 2007, the nonprofit arts organization Lumenvisum has been dedicated to promoting photographic arts in Hong Kong. It hosts regular themed exhibitions, lectures, photography classes and social events at the gallery space at the JCCAC Arts Village. Shop L2-10, 30 Pak Tin St., Shek Kip Mei, 3177-9159. Mur Nomade — Founded in 2012 by curator Amandine Hervey, Mur Nomade is a curatorial office and gallery based in Aberdeen. It holds regular exhibitions, mainly showing work from local contemporary artists, as well as many site-specific shows all across Hong Kong. Unit 1606, 16/F, Hing Wai Centre, 7 Tin Wan Praya Rd., Aberdeen. New Gallery on Old Bailey — Established in 1999, the gallery aims to promote contemporary Chinese fine art. It exhibits the work of well-established artists in a variety of styles—namely realism, surrealism, still-lifes, portraiture and modern abstraction. The gallery has an exhibition program and also gives advice to corporate clients about art commissioning and acquisition. 4/F, Kai Tak, 35 Tai Yau St., San Po Kong, 2234-9889. Pearl Lam Galleries — Pearl Lam galleries has been showing Chinese contemporary art here since 1993, and has gone on to become one of the most well established galleries in Hong Kong. Shop 601-605, 6/F, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central. Picture This Gallery — The city’s largest affordable-art gallery specializes in posters, antique maps, prints and early photographs of Hong Kong and China. It also carries antiquarian and secondhand books about Asia, first editions of modern literature, prints and photographs for children’s rooms and sporting prints. The staff here can also frame your fragile old artwork. Shop 1308, 13/F, 9 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2525-2820. Plum Blossoms Gallery — Recognized for its exhibitions of contemporary Asian art as well as an outstanding collection of museum-quality ancient textiles, Plum Blossoms is an established platform for the promotion of both ancient and modern arts. 14/F, Cheung Tak Building, 30 Heung Yip Rd., Wong Chuk Hang, 2521-2189. Puerta Roja — Puerta Roja was established to promote Latin American art and artists to the Hong Kong audience. Drawings, etchings, glasswork and sculptures are all featured here. Shop A, G/F, Wai Yue Building, 15-17 New St., Sheung Wan, 2803-0332. Red Square Gallery — Red Square Gallery is a window into Contemporary Russian Art. Expanding into four branches, the gallery is dedicated to bringing creative and dynamic artwork to Hong Kong. Shop 2, G/F, Stanley Plaza, 1A Wong Nai Chung Rd., Happy Valley, 2838-0040. f e b r u a r y 2 015 I WHERE H ONG KONG 19

Art+culture | The Guide Sin Sin Fine Art — The gallery represents and promotes mainland and Southeast Asian artists and photographers, with a focus on Chinese, Indonesian and Thai works of art. G/F, 53-54 Sai St., Sheung Wan, 2858-5072. The Cat Street Gallery — Showcasing contemporary and modern art in a variety of mediums, Cat Street exhibits emerging and established artists from around the world. 222 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2291-0006. The Popsy Room — Jennifer Chung, the founder of this unique art space, firmly believes that art should be experienced through all our senses. Hence all exhibitions, featuring local and international artists, cater to vision, sound, smell, and particularly taste: coinciding with their exhibitions every two months is an art-food pairing menu, which patrons can book for a private dining experience. G/F, 30 Upper Lascar Row, Sheung Wan, 2234-6711. White Cube — One of the world’s top contemporary galleries opened its first non-UK outpost in Hong Kong in March of 2012. The gallery represents many members of the Young British Artists (YBA) movement, who are known for their shock factor, confrontational nature and use of disposable materials—for instance, Damien Hirst’s famous dead shark suspended in formaldehyde. 50 Connaught Rd., Central, 2592-2000.

MUSEUMS Hong Kong 3D Museum — Whip out those selfie sticks and get your cameras ready: a visit to the HK3D museum is all about playing with its numerous trick-of-the-eye exhibits, where you can explore Hong Kong’s culture. Here you can jump into a panda enclosure or cling precariously onto the Bank of China tower, among many other fun props and poses. 1/F, Hilton Tower, 96 Granville Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2721-9720.

Hong Kong Film Archive

Hong Kong Film Archive — A repository of all things related to Hong Kong films, the Archive contains lots of movies, conservation labs, a resource center, exhibition hall and a cinema. Closed Thursdays. 1/F, 50 Lei King Rd., Sai Wan Ho, 2739-2139. Hong Kong Heritage Museum — This modern museum is devoted to preserving the city’s historical, art and cultural heritage. Permanent exhibitions on the New Territories and Cantonese opera, plus a Children’s Discovery Gallery of natural and cultural history, including toy-making. Closed Tuesdays and public holidays. 1 Man Lam Rd., Sha Tin, 2180-8188. 20 W H E R E HONG KONG I f e b r u a r y 2 015

Hong Kong Maritime Museum — This museum holds semi-permanent and special exhibitions tracing Hong Kong’s growth into a major world port, and the contributions made by China and the West to the development of ships, maritime exploration, trade and naval warfare. Central Ferry Pier 8, Man Kwong St., Central, 3713-2500. Hong Kong Museum of Art — One of the city’s largest museums houses fine examples of ancient Chinese art from the Han to the Qing dynasties. The exhibition galleries regularly showcase contemporary and international works. Closed Thursdays. 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2724-9042. Hong Kong Museum of Coastal Defence — Don’t let the name put you off, this is a great little museum. Set in a 19th-century British fort with spectacular views of the Lei Yue Mun channel, it features the original restored batteries and camouflaged cannons under a new tented canopy. The museum also houses artifacts and costumes from Hong Kong’s military past. A gentle trail leads to the sea, giving a sense of how the British patrolled for pirates and other enemies of the colony. Closed Thursdays. 175 Tung Hei Rd., Shau Kei Wan, 2569-1500. Hong Kong Museum of History — This fascinating museum explores 6,000 years of Hong Kong history, from the Neolithic to the post-war period, with recreations of prehistoric scenes and the early colonial era. But it’s the reconstruction of a post-war street, complete with tram and traveling Chinese opera company, that really grabs the attention. Closed Tuesdays, except public holidays. 100 Chatham Rd. South, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2724-9042. Hong Kong Railway Museum — This small, picturesque museum is dedicated to the history of Hong Kong’s railway system. It’s situated in a former train station, a charming 1913 building with a traditional tiled roof now declared a historical monument. The permanent exhibition includes photographs, old coaches, samples of tracks and a full-sized model of an electric train compartment. Closed Tuesdays. Tai Po Market, 13 Shung Tak St., Tai Po, 2653-3455. Hong Kong Science Museum — Great for kids, thanks to about 500 permanent exhibits that explore all aspects of science and technology, including robotics, virtual reality and transportation. Best of all, about 70 percent of the displays are interactive, meaning the little ones can play with them. A popular feature is the 20-meter-high energy machine. Closed Thursdays. 2 Science Museum Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2732-3232. Hong Kong Space Museum — Explore the final frontier at the Space Museum and learn all about astronomy and space technology. One of the largest planetariums in the world features daily Omnimax screenings and Sky shows. Closed Tuesdays. 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2721-0226.

Law Uk Folk Museum — Law Uk, which means “Law’s House,” named after its original owner, is an 18th-century, Qing-dynasty Hakka village house, complete with furnishings and artifacts. Free admission. Closed Thursdays. 14 Kut Shing St., Chai Wan, 2896-7006. Lei Cheng Uk Han Tomb Museum — Housing a 2,000-year-old tomb with four chambers, the Lei Cheng Uk Han Tomb Museum is one of the city’s most fascinating monuments. Closed Thursday. 41 Tonkin St., Sham Shui Po, 2386-2863.

Liang Yi Museum

Liang Yi Museum — Liang Yi is dedicated to promoting Chinese antique arts: you’ll find over 300 pieces of treasured furniture, ceramics and knickknacks here—they’re some of the best examples from the Ming and Qing dynasties that still remain. Catch Liang Yi’s distinguished lectures held on every first Tuesday of the month. Closed Sundays, Mondays, and public holidays. Admission is $200. 181-199 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2806-8280. Museum of Medical Sciences — Located in an elegant brick building, this museum charts the development of medicine in the city. It was the first to focus on both western and traditional Chinese approaches to healthcare. Closed Mondays. 2 Caine Lane, Mid-Levels, 2549-5123. Opera Gallery Hong Kong — This gallery features works by world-famous international artists, including Picasso, Chagall, Salvador Dali, Renoir and Chinese painter Ting Shao-kuang, among others. G-3/F, W Place, 52 Wyndham St., Central, 2810-1208. Police Museum — This interesting little museum has more than 600 artifacts relating to the Hong Kong Police, from the force’s inception in 1844 to today. It’s split into four sections including a gallery devoted to triad societies, the equivalent of gangs. Closed on public holidays. 27 Coombe Rd., The Peak, 2849-7019. Sam Tung Uk Museum — Offering a fascinating insight into Hong Kong’s past, Sam Tung Uk (three rows of dwelling) is a restored 200-year-old walled village. The 2,000-square-meter museum includes an ancestral hall, two rows of side houses, an exhibition hall and a lecture hall. It contains displays of period furniture, handicrafts and agricultural equipment. Closed Tues. 2 Kwu Uk Lane, Tsuen Wan, 2411-2001.

Address: Ground Floor, 1E Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong. (Opposite the Holiday Inn Golden Mile Hotel’s Mody Road entrance) Telephone: 2368-0040, 2723-0056 Email: laelite@netvigator.com 九龍尖沙咀麼地道1E地下 (金域假日酒店麼地道入口對面)

ART & Antiques Map Presented by our arts and antique partners

Shop Stop A

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Bonnie Lai Antiquities With 30 years of experience, Bonnie Lai Antiquities embraces different types of Chinese art. Specializing in early pottery, bronze, stone sculpture, ceramics and porcelain. Pieces are tested and authenticated by Oxford Authentication Ltd. It is a perfect place to pick up a piece of history. G/F, 168A Hollywood Rd, Central, Hong Kong www.bonnielaiantiquities.com, (852) 2559 7338

AJC Gallery AJC Gallery is dedicated to promoting groundbreaking international contemporary art, with a view to bringing something out of the ordinary to the Hong Kong audience. The gallery showcases the work of emerging as well as established artists, exhibiting its stable of acclaimed artists in Hong Kong and overseas. G/F, 6-10 Shing Hing St, (off Hollywood Rd) Central , Hong Kong www.ajc-art.com, (852) 2548 2286

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Erarta Galleries (established in St. Petersburg, New York, London, Zurich and Hong Kong) is the biggest global project promoting Russian Contemporary Art. The gallery brings a different collection created by more than 170 artists from over 20 regions of the country to the Hong Kong art enthusiasts.

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Galerie Koo Located in the heart of Central, focusing on contemporary art. The gallery represents established and emerging talented artists from Europe to Asia. The gallery aims to promote contemporary abstract arts with beauty and colours to art lovers of all levels domestically and internationally. 7/F, Vogue Bldg, 67 Wyndham St, Central, Hong Kong, www.galeriekoo.com, (852) 2525 0331

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Connoisseur Art Gallery Located along Hollywood Road in Central, Connoisseur Art Gallery specializes in collectible realist and figurative art by Chinese master artists. It also represents internationally acclaimed Swedish artist Dorina Mocan and French artist Christian Gaillard. G3, Chinacham Hollywood Ctr, 1 Hollywood Rd, Central, Hong Kong www.connoisseur-art.com, (852) 2868 5358

Connoisseur Contemporary Connoisseur Contemporary, the sister gallery of Connoisseur Art Gallery, shows paintings and photography works by both emerging and established artists from China, Japan and Chile.

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Prestige Crafts Oi Ling Antiques Oi Ling Antiques is one of the foremost dealers in high-end Chinese antiquities, including furniture, pottery, stone pieces and selected bronzes. Visitors will be warmly welcomed and will find in-depth knowledge and expertise, combined with authentication certificates to guarantee peace of mind. 58 Hollywood Rd, Central, Hong Kong www.oilingantiques.com, (852) 2815 942

Hong Kong Artistic Sculptor Mr. Chu Chung Shing is the internationally known founder of PRESTIGE CRAFTS. Mr. Chu has been concentrating on Mammoth tusk sculpture. He has contributed to the community by producing a huge quantity of exquisite works of art of various themes, and is rated first in the trade. Shop A, G/F, Elegance Crt, 184 Hollywood Rd, Central, Hong Kong www.prestige-crafts.com, (852) 2541 8840

February 2015 I WHERE H ONG KONG 23

dining | The Guide

An Auspicious Affair Join in the festivities with a tantalizing Chinese New Year meal. By Nicholas Cheung Dinner and a view at Spasso

Spasso

Start with a Bang

Under the Sea

Spasso in Tsim Sha Tsui is a beautiful harborside space for dinner, drinks and spectacular fireworks viewing. The four-course fireworks menu costs $638, and starts from 7:30pm (timed to match the New Year pyrotechnics show). There’s an optional 8-ounce beef tenderloin wrapped with ham for an extra $158. Prime front-row seats are offered on February 20 and a minimum charge of $250 per person is required for bar side nibbles from 6 to 9pm.

Dining at Neptune’s Restaurant at Ocean Park during Chinese New Year can be the perfect end to a full day of adventure. The eight-course “Concerto of Love” set dinner menu ($1,688 for two) starts with a cognac lobster bisque topped with poached lobster, or a fresh crab claw simmered in a Japanese cress and spinach broth. Choose from an Australian barramundi with saffron or a broiled Angus beef tenderloin for the main course. The “Year of Goat” menus will be offered from February 19 to March 1.

Shop G5-8, 12-17, Empire Centre, 68 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui East, 2730-8027.

Gung Hei Fat Choy

Yan Toh Heen

The Harbour Restaurant 24 W H E R E HONG KONG I f e b r u a r y 2 015

Grand Aquarium, Aqua City, Ocean Park, Aberdeen, 3923-2161.

The two-Michelin-starred Yan Toh Heen is offering a special “Fat Choy” menu from February 3 to March 5 (with the exception of February 20, the night of the fireworks) at $1,388 per person. On February 20, chef Lau Yiu Fai introduces an eight-course set dinner at $2,688 per person including golden-stuffed lobster with mushrooms and duck liver, followed by double-boiled sea cucumber with fish maw. Main dishes include braised assorted fungus, and also fried rice with scallops and crabmeat roe. Dig into red bean ice-cream and rice dumplings for desserts.

Treasure Trove

G/F, InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2313-2323.

The Harbourview Hotel, 4 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, 2802-0111.

Enjoy the gorgeous views from The Harbour Restaurant while chomping on some traditional Chinese abalone delicacies. The “Abalone and Bird’s Nest” dinner buffet is available from now until March 1, from 6:30pm to 9:30pm daily, $348 to $478 per person. Dishes include braised whole abalone in oyster sauce, and abalone and seaweed salad with sesame sauce. Bird’s nest, another traditional Chinese delicacy made from the swallows’ saliva, will also make an appearance. A range of seafood dishes and desserts complete the spread.

dining

A Meal for L’Amour In town for Valentine’s Day? Head over to one of these French establishments for a dinner to remember. By Cynthia Chung

Cuckoo for Cocotte A candle-lit five-course dinner featuring Parisian cuisine will be available at Cocotte on Valentine’s Day. Priced at $780 per person, the menu includes a choice of king crab, avocado, or terrine for appetizers, and seabass or filet mignon for mains. Finish with a spiced chocolate fondue paired with fresh strawberries, bananas, marshmallows and financiers sponge cakes. 9 Shin Hing St., Central, 2568-8857. Cocotte

Party Chez Patrick Pour Elle Et Lui (“For Her and Him”) is the name of the Valentine’s Day seven-course menu at the intimate La Table de Patrick. Celebrate the evening with some homemade terrine and Hokkaido scallops before moving on to a Black Angus tenderloin main. The grand finale comes in the form of mandarin mousse, chocolate nuggets and almond cookies. The meal costs $798 per person. An optional champagne pairing is available at $360.

La Table de Patrick

Central 81/2 Otto E Mezzo Bombana — Italian $$$$$ Chef Umberto Bombana’s unique brand of contemporary Italian cuisine is offered in the regularly changing decadent lunch and dinner sets (though an a la carte menu is also available) Shop 202, Alexandra House, 18 Chater Rd., Central, 2537-8859.

Aberdeen Street Social

Aberdeen Street Social — British $$$$ Michelin-starred chef Jason Atherton and entrepreneur Yenn Wong collaborate for the third time to launch Aberdeen Street Social, bringing their take on modern British cuisine to the hipsters of Hong Kong. G/F, JPC Building, PMQ, 35 Aberdeen St., Central, 2866-0300.

Cocotte

6/F, Cheung Hing Commercial Building, 37-43 Cochrane St., Central, 2541-1401.

Amber — French $$$$ Chef Richard Ekkebus and his team create classic French dishes with an innovative twist. This restaurant is consistently included in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. 7/F, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2132-0066. BÊP Vietnamese Kitchen — Vietnamese $$ BÊP is a comfortable, no-fuss SoHo restaurant from the team behind popular Vietnamese restaurant Nha Trang— offering up an open kitchen, good service and excellent food. LG/F, 9-11 Staunton St., Central, 2522-7533. Bistecca — Italian $$$$ This rustic LKF haunt is an Italian-style steakhouse with a touch of charm, and a whole lot of beef. 2/F, Grand Progress Building, 15-16 Lan Kwai Fong, Central, 2525-1308. Brickhouse — Mexican $$$ Tucked away in Lan Kwai Fong, Brickhouse is one of Hong Kong’s best Mexican diners. Enjoy fresh tacos and ceviches as well as some uniquely delicious cocktails at this truly hip establishment. G/F, 20 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2810-0560.

Chôm Chôm

Chôm Chôm — Vietnamese $$ It seems a bold move, to not serve pho at a place that calls itself Vietnamese—but it works. Diners are squeezed into a posh but tiny space that’s mostly eaten up by a large L-shaped bar. Beer and Vietnamese street foods are the two key elements at this space. G/F, Block A, 58-60 Peel St., Central, 2810-0850. Ciak — Italian $$$ Backed by chef Umberto Bombana, Sir David Tang and media mogul Peter Lam, Ciak offers casual Italian fare including bread, pizza and pasta, either for takeaway or for a quick eat-in. 3/F, Landmark Atrium, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2522-8869. f e b r u a r y 2 015 I WHERE H ONG KONG 25

dining | The Guide Cocotte — French $$$ Cocotte is a cute NoHo (north of Hollywood Road) eatery sitting right off the steps of Shin Hing Street. This upscale French restaurant has a casual neighborhood feel and a contemporary menu. 9 Shin Hing St., Central, 2568-8857. Fatty Crab — American $$$ Situated halfway up Old Bailey Street, this bar/resto offers Pan-Asian cuisine and specialty cocktails— including the mighty Pickleback shot. G/F, 11-13 Old Bailey St., Central, 2521-2033. Fish & Meat — Western $$$ Fish & Meat is all about family-style plates, heavily focused on seafood. Baby spanish octopus, roasted Alaskan cod, and pan-fried sea bream are some of the dishes on offer. 1-2/F, 32 Wyndham St., Central, 2565-6788. Gold by Harlan Goldstein — Modern European $$$ Gold serves a wide range of international food, inspired by the diversity of chef Harlan Goldstein’s Lower East Side roots. 2/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 2869-9986.

three-Michelin-starred restaurant come with little handles so they reach your mouth without breaking. The steamed shrimp and scallop dumplings with a topping of XO sauce are pure magic. 4/F, Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong, 8 Finance St., Central, 3196-8888. Mama San — Southeast Asian $$$ Aussie chef Will Meyrick’s popular and uber-trendy Mama San comes from Bali to Central. It’s not as roomy and high-ceilinged as the mothership, but Mama San HK still remains faithful to the original decor, complete with MS Bali’s signature wall mural. 1/F, 46 Wyndham St., Central, 2881-8901. Man Wah Restaurant — Cantonese $$$ Straight-up Cantonese fare with an amazing harbor view in an atmosphere of old-world elegance. 25/F, Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong, 5 Connaught Rd., Central, 2825-4003. Maxim’s Palace City Hall — Dim sum $ If there is one restaurant that epitomizes dim sum culture in Hong Kong, this is it. Floor-toceiling windows overlook Victoria Harbour and the Star Ferry chugging along to Kowloon and back. Low Block, City Hall, Edinburgh Place, Central, 2526-9931.

Ho Lee Fook

Ho Lee Fook — Chinese $$ HLF is a cheeky, modern take on Chinese cuisine, courtesy of Aussie chef Jowett Yu (of Ms. G’s and Mr. Wong in Sydney). The venue consists of a ground-floor open kitchen decked out in mahjong tiles, and a dark and funky basement dining room. LG-G/F, 1-5 Elgin St., Central, 2810-0860. L’Atelier De Joel Robuchon — French $$$$ Each dish at this three-Michelin-starred venue is prepared with exquisite finesse and precision—an ordeal on plain view at the open kitchen. The menu changes seasonally but always remains a cut above that of your average upscale French restaurant. Shop 315 & 401, 4/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2166-9000. La Vache — French $$ La Vache by Black Sheep Restaurants. Inspired by the Le Relais de l’Entrecôte chain from Paris, LV is a brasserie-style space that specializes in the classic European-style steak frites. 48 Peel St., Central, 2880-0248.

Lung King Heen — Cantonese $$$ The xiaolongbao (pork dumplings) at this 26 W H E R E HONG KONG I f e b r u a r y 2 015

Souvla — Greek $$ This modern Greek restaurant in Lan Kwai Fong serves sizzling grilled meats, Mediterranean salads, filo pastries and a whole lot more in a colorful upstairs space. 1/F, Ho Lee Commercial Building, 40 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2522-1823. Tim Ho Wan — Dim sum $ If you’re looking for some Michelin-starred dim sum, just head over to IFC Mall and look for the place with the giant line of people waiting outside. Must-try items include the baked barbecue pork buns and steamed shrimp rice rolls, both of which will leave your stomach and your wallet happy. Shop 12A, 1/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2332-3078.

Causeway Bay

An Nam

Mott 32

Mott 32 — Cantonese $$$$ Mott 32 is restaurant group Maximal Concepts’ first foray into Chinese cuisine, and like its other restaurants, it’s dark, dramatic and exclusive. B/F, Standard Chartered Building, 4-4A Des Voeux Rd. Central, 2885-8688. Peking Garden — Chinese $$$ This famous-with-tourists restaurant tucked into the basement of Alexandra House is known for its signature Peking duck and other Chinese delicacies. The restaurant also specializes in Beggar’s chicken, which has to be ordered at least two days in advance. Shop B1, Alexandra House, 16-20 Chater Rd., Central, 2526-6456.

Sanche

Lung King Heen

Sichuan House — Sichuan $ The menu’s chili ratings can be misleading: even dishes with no chili contain a bit of zing. Then again, if you didn’t like spice, why choose Sichuanese in the first place? 7/F, M88, 2 Wellington St., Central, 2521-6699.

Sanche — Korean $$ Sanche is dishing out modern Korean on Wellington Street. Salads and traditional Korean specialties like tokbokki (spicy rice cakes) will be given slight re-interpretations. Shop C, 28-32 Gage St., Central, 2628-3248.

An Nam — Vietnamese $$ An Nam serves Vietnamese-style dishes in an exquisitely designed setting. Diners can savor fresh seafood and roast meats as well as traditional delicacies from the region of Hue. 4/F, Lee Gardens One, 33 Hysan Ave., Causeway Bay, 2787-3922. Din Tai Fung — Chinese $ The xiaolongbao at Taiwanese chain restaurant Din Tai Fung are some of the most delectable soup-filled pork dumplings in the city, with delicately fine skin and succulent, juicy meat. Shop 3-9, G/F, 68 Yee Wo St., Causeway Bay, 3160-8998. Gonpachi — Japanese $$$ The glorious Tokyo establishment that inspired one of the signature killing scenes in “Kill Bill” has spawned a branch in Causeway Bay’s Lee Gardens. Keep in mind that Gonpachi is not a specialist restaurant. It serves everything: sushi, grilled goods, tempura, rice boxes and noodles. 4/F, The Lee Gardens, 33 Hysan Ave., Causeway Bay, 2787-3688. Jade Garden — Chinese $$$ Jade Garden is a local institution, serving up specialty dishes from around China, such as Peking duck, beggar’s chicken and bird’s nest soup with morsels of crabmeat. It’s big, bright and deservedly popular. 3/F, Causeway Bay Plaza 2, 463-483 Lockhart Rd., Causeway Bay, 2573-9339. Jamie’s Italian — Italian $$ Jamie’s Italian serves up to 200 Italian-craving guests at a time in a spacious venue at Midtown, Causeway Bay’s hottest new dining destination. 2/F, Soundwill Plaza II—Midtown, 1 Tang Lung St., Causeway Bay, 3958-2222.

Sponsored Feature

A Chocolate Trail at Harbour City The shopping center’s sixth annual “Chocolate Trail” takes shoppers on a sweet journey of gourmet delights from now until March 1. Visitors can learn about the chocolate-making journey, from “Bean to Bar.”

Brand Spotlight:

Chocolate lovers: get ready to step into a chocolate paradise as Harbour City launches its sixth “Chocolate Trail” campaign. Taking place from now until March 1, the mall will be transformed into a “ChocoLand,” with workshops, live demonstrations and interactive art exhibitions galore, with nearly 30 participating chocolate brands from Europe and Asia proudly showcasing their wares. One highlight of the campaign is the “Bean to Bar” journey. Taking place at “The Chocolate Factory” in Atrium II of the Gateway Arcade, shoppers will be walked through the chocolate-making process, from planting

DALLOYAU

a cocoa tree, fermentation and drying, to

With a 300 year history, French patisserie

roasting, cracking, moulding and packaging.

DALLOYAU launched in Hong Kong just last year.

While you’re there, check out the Chocolate

Selling indulgent chocolate bonbons, macarons,

Experience Factory and the ChocoVan Café, where you can also visit the pop-up stores of a wide range of premium chocolates.

A Chocolate Lover’s Dream Of the 17 chocolate brands with permanent outlets in Harbour City, three are exclusively available at the mall. These include Italy’s BVLGARI IL CIOCCOLATO, Prestat Chocolates from Great Britain and DALLOYAU from France. Want to try some sweet surprises before anyone else? A further 10 confectioners will be launching pop-up stores for the duration of the events. Of these, two chocolate brands, The Royal Touch from the UK and Chocolat from France will be available in Hong Kong for the very first time at “Chocolate Trail.”

Chocolate Workshops

petit cakes and pastries, this prestigious brand

Chocolate and Chinese Tea Pairing Class

signature Opera cake, the first of its kind created

has really made a splash in Asia. Be sure to try its

Did you know that chocolate pairs perfectly with

by DALLOYAU in 1955. Shop for treats to go at

Chinese tea? Take a closer look at these unlikely

La Boutique, or stay awhile and indulge in a

but delicious flavor combinations by signing up

gourmet high tea set in the adjoining Le Café. Shop 403, Level 4, Ocean Centre, Harbour City, 3185-8330.

for a chocolate and Chinese tea pairing class with Chocolate Lover and Tutor Ms. Katie Chan, and Tea Master Ms. Ji Yu Qin from Fook Ming Tong. Date: Feb 14 and 15

Fine Chocolate Tasting Workshop Die-hard chocoalte fanatics will want to enrol in the Fine Chocolate Tasting Workshop with Chocolate Lover and Tutor Ms. Katie Chan. You’ll get to taste and learn to appreciate with all your senses five chocolates that received recognition at the International Chocolate Awards. Date: Feb 1, 14, 15, 28; March 1 Registration for above workshops:

The Art of Chocolate Chocolate will also serve as the inspiration behing

bit.ly/1u8UY0U Enquiries: 2118-8666

the works of Belgian artist Ben Heine, who arrives in Hong Kong especially for “Chocolate Trail.” In “Pencil vs. Camera,” visitors will be taken on a

Laduree Another French heritage brand at Harbour City

journey through the birth of chocolate via a 3D

is Laduree, which dates back to 1862. It is

art installation that combines photography and

known predominantly for its delicate, jewel-like

sketches that are actually made with chocolate

macarons that come in delightful flavors such as

ingredients. What’s more, Heine will be working

salted caramel and orange blossom. It also has a

with Galler Chocolatier, the royally-appointed

beautiful selection of traditional French pastries

chocolate supplier for the Belgian Royal Family,

and gifts, from tea to luxurious scented candles. 3224, Level 3, Gateway Arcade, Harbour City, 2175-5028.

which will also be providing chocolates for visitors to the gallery to taste for themselves.

dining | The Guide Paradise Dynasty — Chinese $$ Paradise Dynasty is a spacious and popular xiaolongbao restaurant whose claim to fame is its multicolored multi-flavored dumplings. Expect to queue. 6/F, Lee Theatre, 99 Percival St., Causeway Bay, 2177-0903.

Tea Time Five places to enjoy high tea. By Adele Wong

Seasons by Olivier E. — French $$$ Chef Olivier Elzer, formerly of L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon, now has his own brand in a sprawling space at Lee Gardens Two. It’s part of a new breed of restaurants trying to tone down the uppity factor of fine-dining with a laissezfaire, casual approach. 3/F, Lee Gardens Two, 2-38 Yun Ping Rd., Causeway Bay, 2505-6228. Lobby Lounge

Palm Court

Cafe Gray Deluxe

Café Gray Deluxe

Palm Court

Start with smoked salmon and roast turkey sandwiches at the sky-high Café Gray Deluxe at The Upper House, then help yourself to some chocolate financiers and blackcurrant scones— and a whole lot more. The tea costs $235 per person, and $395 for two.

Newly renovated and reopened Palm Court has partnered up with English pottery maker Wedgwood to create an afternoon tea served in exquisite cups and saucers designed with rose motifs, made especially for the occasion. At $428 per head or $698 per couple, the set includes lychee mousse pastries, gold-topped chocolates and delectable eclairs.

Daily 3:30-5:30pm. 49/F, The Upper House, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 3968-1106.

Clipper Lounge Dive into hazelnut cakes, grilled cheese sandwiches and scones with rose petal jam at Hong Kong island’s most iconic hotel. The buzzing Clipper Lounge serves afternoon tea sets for one at $278, or $488 for two. Mon-Fri 3-6pm, Sat 2-4pm, 4:15-6:15pm, Sun 3-6pm. The Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4005.

The Lobby Enjoy a quintessentially colonial afternoon at The Peninsula’s grand and spacious lobby, where you’ll be serenaded by a live classical band as you nibble on finger sandwiches and dainty pastries. The tea sets cost $358 per person or $628 for two. Tea at The Pen is extremely popular, so do be prepared to queue as reservations are not accepted. Daily 2-6pm. The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2920-2888.

28 W H E R E HONG KONG I f e b r u a r y 2 015

Mon-Fri 3-5:30pm, Sat-Sun 2:15-4:15pm, 4:30-6:30pm. The Langham, 8 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2132-7898.

Lobby Lounge at the InterContinental Watch the sun go down over Victoria Harbour while you sip on a cup of Mariage Frères tea. The Lobby Lounge at the InterContinental boasts some of the best harborside views in town—as well as some delectable scones and colorful pastries. Tea for two costs $588 on weekdays, and $608 on weekends and public holidays. Mon-Fri 2:30-6pm, Sat-Sun 1:30-6pm. Lobby Lounge, InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2721-1211.

The Lobby

Shun Kee Typhoon Shelter — Chinese $$$ Shun Kee is a collection of sampans close to the Causeway Bay Typhoon Shelter, serving mostly classic typhoon shelter-style seafood (read: steamed or fried). Causeway Bay Typhoon Shelter, Causeway Bay, 8112-0075. Under Bridge Spicy Crab — Chinese $$$ The Under Bridge Spicy Crab restaurants are all within walking distance of each other, varying from a hole-in-the-wall to a Zen-modern interior. But they all serve typhoon-shelter crabs: large, sweet crustaceans topped with mounds of fried garlic and chili. Shop 1-2, G/F, 414-424 Jaffe Rd., Causeway Bay, 2573-7698.

Tsim Sha Tsui Above & Beyond — Chinese $$$ Go to this narrow but inviting restaurant for a variety of innovative dim sum dishes and expertly tweaked Chinese mains. One standout: the thick, bubbly congee, which contains swirls of creamy egg yolk in each spoonful. 28/F, Hotel Icon, 17 Science Museum Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3400-1318. Hutong — Chinese $$$$ With its dark, unlacquered wood furnishings and fabulous harbor view, you simultaneously feel like you are in a northern Chinese dining hall and a modern, elegant restaurant. Food is beautifully presented northern Chinese haute cuisine. 28/F, 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3428-8342.

Morton’s Of Chicago

Morton’s Of Chicago — American $$$$$ This renovated steakhouse with contemporary interiors offers new signatures like a fivepeppercorn rubbed strip steak and a USDA bone-in rib-eye. Seafood lovers also get to enjoy dishes like a Chilean sea bass fillet. 4/F, Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel & Towers, 20 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2732-2343. Spring Deer — Chinese $ At this loud, busy establishment that’s starting to show its age, you feel the quasi-nostalgic vibe as soon as you walk in, and it really makes the experience. Get the Peking duck. 1/F, 42 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-4012.

dining

Wooloomooloo Prime — Steak $$$$ This elegant Wooloomooloo outpost is a must for serious steak lovers. Choose from 200-day grain-fed Australian steaks as well as other selected cuts from the US, ranging from 10-ounce to hearty 20-ounce cuts. 21/F, The One, 100 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2870-0087.

NO RULES, JUST RIGHT. ‘GO OUTBACK’ TONIGHT!

Wan Chai 22 Ships — Spanish $$$ British chef Jason Atherton’s 22 Ships, named for its address, is a sparsely decorated tapas bar with unfinished floors that serves small plates with a modern twist. Since it doesn’t take reservations, the intimate venue is always packed. 22 Ship St., Wan Chai, 2555-0722. Beef & Liberty — American $$ Dig into gourmet burgers and sweet potato fries at this posh diner. Remember to save room for the cookie skillet dessert at the end of your meal. 2/F, 23 Wing Fung St., Wan Chai, 2811-3009.

Causeway Bay 2/F, JP Plaza, 22-36 Paterson St. Reservations: 2881 8012 Wanchai 1/F, De Fenwick, 8-12 Fenwick St. Reservations: 3101 0418

www.outback.com.hk

Whampoa Shop 3A, G/F, Site 4, Whampoa Garden, Hunghom Reservations: 2766 2823

Tuen Mun Tsuen Wan

Whampoa Tsim Sha Tsui Wanchai

Bo Innovation

Tsim Sha Tsui East Taikoo Causeway Bay

Tsim Sha Tsui Shop 1, Level 2, 26 Nathan Rd. Reservations: 3741 1728

Tsim Sha Tsui East Shops 23-28, Upper Ground Floor, Tsim Sha Tsui Centre, 66 Mody Rd. Reservations: 2311 7800 Tsuen Wan Shops 3-5, Level 2, Discovery Park Shopping Centre, 398 Castle Peak Rd. Reservations: 2940 0682 Taikoo Shops G9-G10, G/F, Kornhill Plaza, 1 Kornhill Rd. Reservations: 2560 8246 Tuen Mun Shop 2016-2017, 2/F, Phase 1, Tuen Mun Town Plaza Reservations: 2426 3918

Bo Innovation — Asian $$$ “Demon chef” Alvin Leung is known for his innovative takes on Asian cuisine. Steamed soup dumplings get transformed into different shapes, textures and sizes, and many other things don’t look like they’re supposed to at this three Michelin-starred restaurant. 2/F, J Residence, 60 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2850-8371. Seventh Son — Cantonese $$$ Seventh Son offers classic Cantonese cuisine in a fresh contemporary setting spanning over two levels. A great choice for carnivores, with a huge selection of seafood as well as signatures like roast suckling pig and crispy chicken. 5-6/F, Kwan Chart Tower, 6 Tonnochy Rd., Wan Chai, 2892-2888.

The Pawn

The Pawn — British $$$ The newly revamped Pawn has a light, bright and interior. Dig into modern British fare that’s meant for sharing 62 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2866-3444.

Price Guide $ Less than $200 $$ $200-$399 $$$ $400-$599

$$$$ $600-$799 $$$$$ $800 and up

Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course and dessert. Prices do not include bottles of wine unless stated. F e b r u a r y 2 015 I WHERE H ONG KONG 29

Taste of the city B ro u ght to Y o u by O u r R esta u rant Partners

Jumbo Kingdom An internationally renowned tourist attraction, Jumbo Kingdom, situated in Aberdeen Typhoon Shelter, is a significant landmark in Hong Kong. It provides top quality food and services for the tourists. Jumbo Kingdom is best known for its fresh seafood, traditional Cantonese cuisine and dim sum. Numerous international dignitaries and celebrities have visited over the years. The restaurant has also served as a film set for many blockbusters. It is more than just a restaurant, also a modern complex of fine-dining, sightseeing and cultural attractions. At the Jumbo Kingdom, we have a selection of banquet halls and multi-function rooms capable of accommodating more than 700 guests. Our second-to-none expertise in banqueting and excellent food quality makes Jumbo Kingdom the best venue for banquets, meetings, seminars and all other special events. We provide free shuttle ferry at Aberdeen Promenade Pier and Wong Chuk Hang Shum Wan Pier, just 15 minutes away from Central and Causeway Bay. Shum Wan Pier Drive, Wong Chuk Hang, Aberdeen, 2553-9111, www.jumbokingdom.com.

30 W H E R E HONG KONG I F e b r u a r y 2 015

Sagano Hotpot All-you-can-eat Japanese Hotpot Visit Sagano to dig into unlimited servings of renowned Iwate Hakkinton pork and Kagoshima A4 Wagyu beef, along with a choice of shabu shabu ox bone broth or Sukiyaki sweet soya sauce broth. The set menu also comes with seasonal appetiser, assorted sashimi, and more, and is available from Tuesday to Saturday at dinner period only until end of February. 1/F, New World Millennium Hong Kong Hotel, 72 Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui East, 2313-4215.

LaVilla Restaurant & Bar LaVilla is a stylish, contemporary restaurant renowned for romantic dinners, but also for birthday parties, wedding celebrations, private events…It offers a wide range of Continental cuisine, specializing in Seafood and Grills. It prides itself in providing the freshest and finest ingredients in order to realize for you the best culinary experience. Food is imported, with first a wide selection of fresh oysters from France, a great Slow Cooked US Prime Rib Eye Beef, Iberico Ham from Spain, Chilean Sea Bass and on and on…This is to ensure that your dining experience remains unforgettable. It also offers a wide range of wines to compliment your meal at LaVilla. At night, you can enjoy one of the hottest live bands in Hong Kong. Playing everything from R&B to rock, soul to pop, blues to progressive, the Band moves with ease and dexterity.

Scrumptious weekend brunch at Cafe Deco Pizzeria The new branch of Cafe Deco Pizzeria in Sheung Wan is brightening up laid-back urbanites’ weekends with its delightful weekend brunch! At just $228 per adult and $128 per child (aged 6-11), diners can enjoy an antipasti buffet, as well as fluffy signature pancakes from 11am to 4pm. Add $20 to $40 for a delectable main course, or add $150 per person for free-flow house wines, Prosecco, Rosé and soft drinks for the whole 5 hours! Shop 3-4, G/F, Tower 125, 11 Po Yan Street, Sheung Wan, 2559 4100, www.cafedecogroup.com.

G28 Tsim Sha Tsui Centre, 66 Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui East, 2724 0707, www.lavilla.hk.

F e b r u a r y 2 015 I WHERE H ONG KONG 31

Drinks | The Guide

Raising the Bar The city’s hottest new digs. By Andrea Lo

The Pawn The British-style restaurant and bar has undergone a complete revamp, reopening its doors last month. While the Pawn of old had a gentlemen’s club feel, it now boasts a sleeker look. The bar area is dubbed the “the Botanicals”—many of the cocktails use herbs and plants as ingredients, some of which were harvested on The Pawn’s very own rooftop farm. 62 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2866-3444, www.thepawn.com.hk.

Topiary

Mrs Pound

Highline

There’s good reason for the hordes of hipsters flocking to Mrs Pound. Holding court at the bottom of Pound Lane just off Hollywood Road, the speakeasy masquerades as an old-school Chinese stamp shop. A sliding door reveals a brightly colored, neon-lit joint. Much like its dishes, the cocktails come with a Southeast Asian twist, with drinks like the Tom Yum Cooler.

The team behind Manhattan cocktail bar Highline has brought the concept to Hong Kong, and it sure stands out from the crowd on Wyndham Street. Created in partnership with British perfumery Penhaligon’s, the bar offers “aromatically driven” concoctions—drinkers pick a scent that tickles their fancy, and the mixologist will create their personalized cocktail.

6 Pound Lane, Sheung Wan, 3426-3949.

50 Wyndham St., Central.

is nothing new, but now’s your chance to give it a go. Prefer to eat in the light? Seafood dishes are served in the lounge, as well as the likes of chargrilled wagyu beef and crispy pork belly. G-LG/F, 16 Arbuthnot Rd., Central, 6821-2801. 121BC

121BC — 121BC is a wine lover’s heaven. Pick from top-of-the-range wines sourced from Italy, paired with a rustic Italian menu. 42-44 Peel St., Central, 2395-0200. Alchemy — Alchemy is the perfect antidote to the crowds of Wyndham. In addition to the lounge bar, it also boasts a dining-in-thedark experience in the basement. The concept

Amazake

Amazake — Amazake is sandwiched between three of Hong Kong’s biggest clubs: Play,

Cocktail bar Topiary is a mixed bag: alongside premium Scottish single malts and Japanese whiskies, you’ll find “shim cocktails” on the menu. They’re essentially low-alcohol cocktails, meaning you get all the great flavors and complexity of a drink—without ending up totally tipsy by your third. As for bar snacks, forget peanuts and chips—Topiary offers up vegetarian canapés. Talk about a guilt-free night out! 3/F, Hilltop Plaza, 49-51 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2866-6485, topiaryhk.com.

Levels and Dizzi. It’s bright and pumping with energy, a place for large groups to pre-game before hitting the clubs next door. G/F, On Hing Building, 1 On Hing Terrace, Central, 2537-7787. Aqua Spirit — This bar redefines the notion of having a sophisticated drink with friends. Often quoted as one of the best bars in Hong Kong, Aqua has stunning harbor and city views. 29-30/F, Penthouse, 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3427-2288. Boujis — Taking cue from its highly successful and celeb-endorsed model in London, Boujis establishes an Asian branch in Hong Kong. The moody space comes alive at night with house, electro and similarly buzzing sounds. 37 Pottinger St., Central, 2324-0200.

For weekly event listings, pick up a free copy of HK Magazine (available at bars, restaurants and coffee shops).

32 W H E R E HONG KONG I f e b R u a r y 2 0 15

Drinks Butler — Masayuki Uchida, the half-Cantonese, half-Japanese owner of this posh, all-wooden Japanese bar, allegedly knows 2,000 cocktail recipes by heart. This nightspot is exclusive, fitting only 18 people and allowing groups with a maximum of five people. 5/F, Mody House, 30 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2724-3828.

Havana — This Cuban-themed bar on D’Aguilar Street serves up Caribbean classics like daiquiris, mojitos and drinks with all different sorts of rum. Awesome terrace available for some serious outdoor chilling. 4/F, The Plaza, 21 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2851-4880.

Common Room — Common Room is a spacious gastropub that serves international tapas dishes and mixologist-crafted cocktails right off LKF’s main drag. 1/F, Wo On Building, 8-13 Wo On Lane, Central, 2525-3599.

Supergiant — Burrow deep inside boutique hotel Mira Moon, and you’ll emerge like a white rabbit from Wan Chai’s back streets into cocktail and tapas bar Supergiant. It’s a collection of three intricately designed spaces—a lounge with dark, hidden corners, a chic open-air terrace dubbed the “Secret Garden” and a Gothic dining room. There is a cleverly crafted Spanish-Chinese fusion cocktail and tapas menu. 3/F, Mira Moon Hotel, 388 Jaffe Rd., Wan Chai, 2643-8888.

Isono Eatery and Bar

Isono Eatery and Bar — Isono is good for a big group or an intimate evening for two, with an extensive menu worth exploring. Whether it’s the cocktail pairings or the artisanal cheese platters, there’s always something to keep your interest piqued. Shop H601-H608, 6/F, Block B, PMQ, 35 Aberdeen St., Central, 2156-0688. Duddell’s

Duddell’s — Duddell’s is an elegant dim sum eatery by day, hopping bar at night, and art hub round the clock; you’ll find some of the most thought-provoking contemporary art in town at this intimate social space. It regularly hosts curator and artist talks—with classy tipple to boot. 3-4/F, Shanghai Tang Mansion, Duddell St., Central, 2525-9191. Fu Lu Shou — Hongkongers love a good rooftop bar, so it’s no surprise that the superhip Fu Lu Shou is all the rage. Meaning ‘happiness, prosperity and longevity,’ Fu Lu Shou offers up cool surrounds and interesting concoctions. Not only do the innovative cocktails have a strong local flavor, but you’ll also find western-style Chinatown favorites on the menu. 7/F, 31 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2336-8812. Grappa’s Cellar — This busy after-work spot features some of the city’s top jazz musicians. B/F, Jardine House, 1 Connaught Place, Central, 2521-2322.

Ham & Sherry

Ham & Sherry — Patterned floor-to-ceiling Azulejo tiles in sharp blue and white are the first things that catch your eye at this modestly sized venue. In case it’s not obvious, sherry is the drink of choice here. 1-7 Ship St., Wan Chai, 2555-0628.

Le Boudoir — It’s all sultry drapes and chandeliers here, with tactile velvet upholstery that just makes you want to throw yourself on the furniture. Walls are hung with heavy gilded frames for a decadent, rococo touch. Absinthe features heavily on the drinks list, with innovative cocktails made of the trippy green stuff. It’s the perfect escape from the Wyndham crowds. B/F, 65 Wyndham St., Central, 2530-3870. Peak Bar — The name’s a little confusing, but this is a cozy, laid-back spot with fab peoplewatching right on the Mid-Levels Escalator. 9-13 Shelley St., Central, 2140-6877. Quinary — This chic hangout off of Hollywood Road serves some awesome cocktails by molecular mixologist Antonio Lai. The Earl Grey caviar martini and the oolong tea Collins are both highly recommended. 56-58 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2851-3223. Rummin’ Tings — Holding court just under the escalator, Rummin’ Tings is a Caribbeanthemed bar bringing a touch of the tropical to the SAR. As the name (“rum and things”) suggests, rum takes center stage. Close your eyes while you’re savoring a cocktail, and you could almost be on an exotic island—except you’re right in the middle of an unbeatable people-watching spot. 28 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2523-7070.

Tapagria

Tapagria — If you’re looking for a view, tapas and sangria look no further than Tapagria, situated on the high floors of The One shopping mall. Enjoy one of the 65 sangria concoctions alongside dishes like paella and croquettes. 18/F, The One, 100 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2147-0111. The Envoy — The Envoy is a stylish venue in an unbeatable Central location, with a touch of colonial influence. Tea makes a frequent appearance in the cocktails: a tip of the hat to the city’s first governor Sir Henry Pottinger, who had a hand in establishing Hong Kong as a major shipping port, for the infusion. 3/F, The Pottinger Hong Kong, 74 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2169-3311. The Tonno — This multi-faceted complex features a bar, clubbing zone, restaurant, live music lounge, VIP party enclaves and karaoke rooms—in short, it takes “all-around entertainment” to a whole new level. 5 Tonnochy Rd., Wan Chai, 3125-3888.

Sevva — A spacious alfresco terrace surrounds this super-stylish restaurant and lounge, offering unique, panoramic views over Hong Kong. A perfect place to watch the Symphony of Lights. 25/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2537-1388. Shore — A swanky submarine-themed bar with one of the most extensive drinks selection in town. Cocktail lovers can go for a “Surprise Me”—choose an ingredient and have the bartender create a unique 10-minute martini, made from fresh fruits and herbs 3/F, L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2915-1638.

The Woods

The Woods — This basement bar is decked out in nature-inspired décor—hence the name— and shakes up creative and painstakingly crafted cocktails. L/G, 17 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2522-0281. f e b R u a r y 2 0 15 I WHERE H ONG KONG 33

ShopS+Services | The Guide

Shop Hop We take a look inside Hong Kong's newest commercial complex.

PMQ The site where PMQ sits now, just at the junction of Hollywood Road and Aberdeen Street, used to be the original campus of the Central School in the 1880s—the first government school providing western education to the public. Dr. Sun Yat-sen is among its alumni. Much damage was inflicted on the school buildings during World War II, and the site was eventually rebuilt as the first Police Married Quarters (PMQ) for junior officers. In 2010, the Hong Kong Development Bureau announced that PMQ would be transformed into an iconic hub for creative industries. The historical site has since gone through a major rehaul, with salvageable parts of the old structure conserved and revitalized.

The new PMQ finally opened in the summer of 2014. It’s now a top creative landmark in Hong Kong: a bustling shopping and creative complex full of independent artists’ workshops and quirky design stores stocking the latest from local and international designers. You’ll find unique, sometimes one-ofa-kind items here; you can also have the chance to join different artisan workshops, and visit special editions of local businesses that are only found at PMQ, such as Showcase by Bread and Butter—a spin-off café from the local clothing store of the same name. PMQ also regularly hosts large outdoor events including pop-up weekend and night markets, and annual design festivals such as Detour.

34 W H E R E HONG KONG I F e b r u a r y 2 0 15

ShopS+Services A Peek Inside... Bamboa Home Bamboa’s founder Julia Washbourne uses sustainable, eco-friendly bamboo to create everything from kitchenware to bathroom accessories to clothing. Not only are bamboo products good for the environment, the brand also does its bit to enact social change: part of the proceeds go to environmental projects that help protect the planet’s biodiversity, alleviate deforestation and pull workers out of poverty. S304, 2291-0285, www.bamboahome.com.

Cecilia Ma This is Hong Kong fashion magnate Cecilia Ma’s second store, selling edgy jewelry and clutches. The wooden purses offer an unexpected twist to any outfit, the necklaces are bright with intricate detailing, while the tiaras—embellished with metal skulls and gems—make for a dramatic look when paired with a smart dress. S503, 3690-2900, www.ceciliama.com.

Mall852.com Looking for something that’s so Hong Kong but with a macabre slant? Mall852.com has a Ghost Guru board game (think Hong Kong Monopoly, with ghosts) that will have you recalling Hong Kong’s spookiest ghost stories as you play. Other quirky products include bags designed to look like old Hong Kong letterboxes, pet carriers shaped like taxis, and cheeky CY Leung (Hong Kong’s Chief Executive) key holders.

Home.Works

H313, 3173-9878, www.mall852.com.

Home.Works is a concept store that encourages mindful living. The “Life is…” series has something for everybody, from leather-bound notebooks that would make great gifts, to homemade cream soap bars and liquid soaps. S506, www.home-works.org.

F e b r u a r y 2 0 15 I WHERE H ONG KONG 35

ShopS+Services | The Guide

Bespoke

Tailors

A suit says reams about the wearer. Jake Grantham from The Armoury talks to Charley Mulliner about how to ensure your next suit is the perfect fit.

Cuffs

CUFFS — 2/F, 27 Lee Garden Rd., Causeway Bay, 2413-6033. DAVID FASHIONs — G/F, Shop 15, Empress Plaza, 17-19 Chatham Rd. South, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2368-6884. L & K bespoke Tailor — G/F, Mirador Mansion, 54-64 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2369-7278. La Elite Fashions — G/F, 1E Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2368-0040. Nita Fashions — G/F, 16 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2721-9990.

1. Make sure that your suit has a "floating canvas" construction. This means that the internal chest piece is hand-stitched, so it will mold better to your chest over time. 2. Trouser length is a personal preference. I like to wear mine just reaching the top of my shoes with a cuff. The weight of the cuff ensures the trouser drapes nicely. We usually encourage a pleat too. 3. Your shirt should reach the top of the hand and the jacket sleeve should be a centimeter shorter than that. Showing

some shirt cuff brightens up dark colors and is a hallmark of showing you know how to dress. 4. Stick with the classics of navy, gray and brown suits paired with pink, white and blue shirts—garments you will love to wear your whole life. You can’t go wrong with the classics. 5. Pocket squares, ties and other injections of color should be considered in harmony with the outfit as a whole. Matching or jarring accessories should be avoided.

Popular Suit Fits: • Single-breasted suit: Our style is "threeroll-two," where a three-button suit is pressed so that only the middle button is functional. This encourages the lapel to roll beautifully and takes the rigidity out of a tailored look. Combine with a notched lapel and jetted pockets (no flaps) for a simple, clean and elegant look. • Double-breasted suit: We opt for six-button blazers with two that are functioning. This is the most classic configuration and that's for a reason. Our style is Italian-derived.

Punjab House

Punjab House — Shop G, G/F, Burlington Houswe, 94 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-6612. Raja Fashions — G/F, 34C Cameron Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-7624. Sam’s Tailor — Shop K, Burlington Arcade, 90-94 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-9423. Shaniel Custom Tailor — G/F, Shop B & C, Comfort Building, 86-88A Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2730-1251.

The Armoury

The Armoury — Shop 307, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2804-6991.

Almost all goods, apart from certain types of alcohol and tobacco, are tax-free.

36 W H E R E HONG KONG I f e b R u a r y 2 0 15

Tel: 2730 1251

ShopS+Services | The Guide

Seeing Red Load up on auspicious Chinese New Year goodies. By Adele Wong

HORIZON PLAZA — It may not look promising but this is something of a mecca for bargain fashion, furniture and Chinese antiques. The industrial high-rise features Lane Crawford and Joyce outlets. Also look for homeware emporium Tequila Kola and antiques warehouse Shambala. 2 Lee Wing St., Ap Lei Chau, 2554-9089. ISLAND BEVERLEY — Browse through closetsized boutiques offering the best of hip local designers. 1 Great George St., Causeway Bay, 2890-6823.

Lock and key bracelets $261, Cruciani

LANGHAM PLACE — Occupying about 600,000 square feet, Langham Place houses fashion and lifestyle stores and more than 20 restaurants. It’s within walking distance of the Ladies’ Market and Fa Yuen Street. 8 Argyle St., Mong Kok, 3520-2800, www.langhamplace.com.hk.

Sweatshirt $130, Bossini

"Love" rings $1,150, Jennifer Zeuner @ The 9th Muse

New Year puddings $238 each, i-La Island Shangr

THE LANDMARK — The Landmark is a fashion mecca centered around a five-story atrium. Don’t miss iconic London department store Harvey Nichols. 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3428-8086.

Pineapple cakes $190-285 for 10-15 pieces, SunnyHills

Bossini G-M/F, On Lok Yuen Building, 25-27A Des Voeux Rd. Central, 2524-9313.

The 9th Muse 12/F, 1 Lyndhurst Tower, 1 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, 2537-7598.

SunnyHills G/F, 8 Chancery Lane, Central, 2812-1299.

Island Shangri-La Supreme Court Road, Admiralty, 2877-3838.

Shopping Centers APM — In the center of Kwun Tong, APM opens late (11am) but closes even later (2am). It boasts 150 shops, a cinema, more than 20 international restaurants and a convenient link to the MTR station. 418 Kwun Tong Rd., Kwun Tong, 3148-1200. ELEMENTS — Two floors and a million square feet of retail heaven beneath Hong Kong’s tallest building, the ICC, this luxury mall offers international cuisine and world-class shopping. Other features include a cinema, ice rink and enormous rooftop garden. 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2735-5234. HARBOUR CITY — This enormous stretch of shops runs along Canton Road for what seems like miles. Its four levels of shops, services and restaurants sprawl across over 2 million square feet. 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2118-8666. 38 W H E R E HONG KONG I f e b r u a r y 2 015

LEE GARDENS — Divided into Lee Gardens and Lee Gardens Two, this luxury mall is stuffed with high-end retailers such as Gucci, Hermes, Louis Vuitton and more. Lee Gardens Two has children’s fashion shops, and there are plenty of restaurants to choose from. 33 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, 2907-5227, www.hysan.com.hk.

Cruciani 3/F, LCX, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3188-5475.

HYSAN PLACE — This mall is a great one-stop shopping destination, with over 120 stores (including hard-to-find Japanese brands) and tons of high-quality dining options. 500 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2886-7222.

Harvey Nichols at Pacific Place

PACIFIC PLACE — One of the most popular malls in Hong Kong, Pacific Place has four floors of upscale shops and restaurants anchored by a massive Harvey Nichols. There’s also a nice range of eateries and a multi-screen cinema. 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2844-8988. PRINCE’S BUILDING — Prince’s Building is linked by covered walkways to The Landmark, Chater House, Alexandra House and The Galleria. A cozy mixture of the uber-fashionable, the artistic and the maternal, it also houses the excellent Oliver’s supermarket. 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2500-0555. One Peking — Satisfy your thirst for designer wear with Dior, Fendi, Miu Miu and Cartier. 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui.

IFC Mall

IFC MALL — This popular shopping center is home to more than 200 international highend brands with Lane Crawford acting as an anchor. It also has a luxurious cinema, and some of the finest dining in the city. Easily accessible via MTR, Airport Express and Star Ferry. 8 Finance St., Central, 2295-3308.

Rise Commercial Building — A playground for hip, trendy and young fashionistas. 5-11 Granville Circuit, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2384-8728. TIMES SQUARE — One of Hong Kong’s largest malls, this 13-story complex contains more than 230 shops—including Lane Crawford, upscale Japanese supermarket Citysuper, Page One books and a cinema. 1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay, 2118-8900.

ShopS+Services | The Guide Shops, Boutiques and Local Designers Blanc de Chine — Modern Chinese luxury clothing and accessories for women and men. Shop 123, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2104-7934.

Department Stores

SPAS

Harvey Nichols — The Hong Kong branch of London’s famous department store is a haven of international brands, with a good restaurant—the Fourth Floor—and a fabulous beauty department. The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3695-3388.

CHUAN SPA — This stunning spa focuses on the individual needs of each client through traditional Chinese medicine and theories, including yin and yang. Its consultants are qualified in Chinese medicine, massage and naturopathy. 41/F, Langham Place Hotel, 555 Shanghai St., Mong Kok, 3552-3510, www.chuanspa.com.

Daydream Nation — A locally grown label that incorporates fashion with other art forms like theater, dance, music, film and visual arts. It offers its own collection of clothing and accessories, as well as works from local artists and indie bands. Daydream Nation Circus Shop, 2/F, Hong Kong Arts Centre, 2 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, 2817-6313. G.O.D. — Some “Goods of Desire” for those searching for the perfect couch or unique home accessories. G-1/F, 48 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2805-1876. Kapok — Offers meticulously selected international and local brands for menswear, womenswear, bags and accessories, as well as lifestyle products. G/F, 5, St. Francis Yard, Wan Chai, 2549-9254.

Joyce

JOYCE — Named after founder and Hong Kong’s first lady of fashion, Joyce Ma, this is the place for red-hot fashion and accessories, cult beauty brands and too-chic housewares. G/F, New World Tower, 18 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2810-1120; Shop 232, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2523-5944; Shop G106, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2907-2228. LANE CRAWFORD — This Hong Kong institution is almost as old as the city itself, and just as fashionable. It’s stacked with must-have designer brands as well as handbags, shoes, silver, linen, crystal and everything in between. 3/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2118-3388. SOGO — Japan’s most famous department store sits at one of the city’s busiest intersections. 555 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2833-8338.

Shanghai Tang SHANGHAI TANG — Shanghai Tang specializes in a funky fusion of traditional and contemporary Chinese design. You’ll find kitsch accessories, great housewares, fun T-shirts, fashion for men and women, and incredibly beautiful bespoke cheongsams. The flagship is worth a visit. 1 Duddell St., Central, 2525-7333.

Tang tang tang tang — Sir David Tang's casual lifestyle store stocks everything from rice cookers to pyjamas. G/F, 66 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2525-2112. Vivienne Tam — Elegant, feminine contemporary dresses with a Chinese twist. Shop 417, Times Square, 1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay, 2506-2088. Wudai Shiguo — This shop in the trendy Star Street neighborhood is a collaboration between a group of local designers and stocks American-style fashion and accessories. 9B1 St. Francis St., Wan Chai, 2528-3800. 40 W H E R E HONG KONG I f e b r u a r y 2 015

FLAWLESS — This all-in-one shop offers makeup and nail services as well as spa treatments in a spacious upper-level venue. 4/F, Sea Bird House, 22-28 Wyndham St., Central, 2869-5868. IYARA DAY SPA — This Central institution offers everything from manis and pedis to facials, waxing and massage treatments. 1/F, 26 Cochrane St., Central, 2545-8638. THE PENINSULA SPA BY ESPA — This two-floor spa has sweeping harbor views. Designed by Henry Leung, the interior fuses contemporary and traditional Chinese elements. Much attention has been given to detail, including 100-percent Egyptian cotton robes and fully automated Clodagh Gemini treatment beds. 7/F, The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2696-6682, www.hongkong.peninsula.com.

The Swank

THE SWANK — Representing established designers as well as up-and-coming talents, The Swank has been one of the finest local fashion houses since 1955. It has 17 freestanding boutiques and points-of-sale in major department stores. Shop 103B, 1/F, Ocean Centre, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2175-4228. Tang Tang Tang Tang

Flawless

Chinese Emporiums CHINESE ARTS AND CRAFTS — Stuffed with the best of Chinese crafts, from tablecloths to objets d’art to some incredible jade, this is one of the best places to stock up on gifts, porcelain, jewelry, cloth and fine antiques. Shop 220, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2735-4061. YUE HWA CHINESE EMPORIUM — Yue Hwa is a great place to pick up souvenirs and gifts, from acupuncture needles to Chinese Zodiac figurines. There is a good selection of cheongsams, tops and trousers tailored from quality silk. 301-309 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3511-2222.

The Ritz-Carlton Spa

THE RITZ-CARLTON SPA BY ESPA — Get pampered at the highest hotel spa in the world. Located on the 116th floor, this relaxing retreat looms over the city and offers majestic views of Victoria Harbour. Spa guests can also take a dip in the hotel's sky-high infinity pool after their treatments. 116/F, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 22632040, www.ritzcarlton.com/hongkong. TEN FEET TALL — Go to Ten Feet Tall for a slightly different foot massage experience in an exotic ambience. The foot massage center features bright and sunny beach cabanas with pine, bamboo, natural marble and bright décor. The place’s signature treatments include genuine foot reflexology, shoulder and neck massages, pressure point massages and aromatic oil massages. 20-21/F, L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2971-1010, www.tenfeettall.com.hk.

HONG KONG Shop G&H, Ground Floor, Burlington House, 90-94C Nathan Road, T.S.T., KLN., HK (Tsim Sha Tsui Station Exit B1) 九龍尖沙咀彌敦道90-94C號華敦大廈地下Ｇ&H舖（尖沙咀港鐵站 B1 出口） Tel: (852) 2366 5635 / 2366 6612 / 2368 8625 BUSINESS HOURS 09:00AM – 09:00PM (MON-SAT) 10:00AM – 07:00PM (SUN)

www.punjabhouse.com.hk

SPECIAL OFFER FOR MEN AND WOMEN ONE SUIT WITH TWO PANTS

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Navigate | The Guide www.mtr.com.hk

Tourist Information HONG KONG TOURISM BOARD — The Hong Kong Tourism Board is ready to answer all your questions about travel in Hong Kong. Look for visitor centers at the following locations: Hong Kong International Airport (at Buffer Halls A and B, Arrivals Level, Terminal 1); Lo Wu (Arrival Hall, 2/F, Lo Wu Terminal Building); Kowloon (Star Ferry Concourse, Tsim Sha Tsui, open daily 8am-8pm); and The Peak Piazza (between The Peak Tower and The Peak Galleria, Hong Kong Island, open daily 9am-9pm). You can also call the Visitor Hotline (2508-1234) from 9am to 6pm. Visit www.discoverhonghong.com for descriptions of attractions, plus shopping, dining and touring tips. The website also has a comprehensive description of the month’s events and festivals, as well as virtual tours, e-cards, a photo gallery and handy downloadable apps for your phone.

Get Moving

Octopus Cards

Hong Kong has a great public transportation system called the MTR, as well as highly punctual, carefully scheduled buses (with their routes clearly printed in English). Renting a car can be a headache because roads can be confusing and parking costly. It’s cheaper and easier to take a taxi, ferry, tram, bus, hotel limousine, or even a helicopter.

These are “tap-and-go” stored-value cards used across all of Hong Kong’s transportation systems (apart from taxis), and in retail outlets like car parks and convenience stores.

Taxis Taxis are readily available at reasonable prices. Be aware that drivers cannot pick up or drop off on roads marked with double yellow lines, and no waiting is allowed except on unmarked roads. Red taxis serve Hong Kong Island and Kowloon and can go anywhere in the territory. Green taxis cost less but only serve the New Territories. Similarly, blue taxis serve Lantau Island only. Drivers generally speak some English, but it is wise to get the hotel staff to write your destination in Chinese characters, or point to one of the destinations in this guide.

The size of a credit card, the Octopus is simply placed on the touch pads at the entrance to public transportation or the cash register in shops. Payment is automatically deducted. Cards can be refilled at MTR stations and any retail outlet that accepts them. Three types of Octopus cards are available. The “On Loan Octopus” costs $150, which includes a $50 deposit and $100 of stored value. The “Sold Octopus” costs $50, and does not include any stored value. The “Airport Express Travel Pass” costs $220/$300 and includes one/two single Airport Express journeys and three days of unlimited rides on the MTR, $20 stored value and a $50 deposit.

Trams have been a part of Hong Kong life for more than 100 years. With a $2.30 flat fare, they are still the cheapest way to get around.

42 W H E R E HONG KONG I F e b r u a r y 2 015

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Ask the Concierge Mandy Wan is an assistant concierge at Langham Place Hotel, Mong Kok. She gives us her top tips for your stay in Hong Kong.

Tim Ho Wan's famous char siu baos

Sam’s The Man See Hong Kong by helicopter

What’s the most important Chinese word you think a visitor should learn? Mandy Wan: Nei ho ma (你好嗎), meaning “How are you?” Can you recommend a hidden treasure? I’d especially recommend our guests to go hiking and explore the nature in Hong Kong. They will see a totally different side of Hong Kong. Recommended hiking trails include the Dragon’s Back and Lamma Island. I’d like to eat some authentic Hong Kong food near here. What would you recommend? You can try authentic Cantonese cuisine at our Michelin-starred restaurant, Ming Court. Restaurant chain Tim Ho Wan has a branch at Olympian City 2, serving Cantonese dim sum all day. If you had all the money in the world to spend for one day in Hong Kong, what would you do? I would book a tour guide to take me on private rides: for instance, a helicopter or chartered car to see Hong Kong from different angles, in different ways. And if you had just $100? Then I’d get an Octopus card and travel around by MTR, take the Star

Colorful wares on Antique Street

Ferry to see the beautiful Victoria Harbour, or get on a tram to discover Hong Kong Island. We’re looking for a great gift to take home.

(Just ask his customers)

Sam’s Tailor, Shop K, Burlington Arcade, 92-94 Nathan Road, Tsimshatsui, Kowloon. Tel: (852) 2367 9423 / 2721 8375 Fax: (852) 2311 8147

Where would you go to buy a nice present for your partner? I’d probably get something like an antique or an authentic Chinese product on Antique Street (Upper Lascar Row, Sheung Wan). What is the etiquette on tipping in Hong Kong? Tipping is not necessary in Hong Kong, although it’s always welcome if you appreciate someone’s service. As a concierge, what’s the strangest request you’ve had? There was a guest who wanted to look for information about his ancestors who lived in Hong Kong decades ago. He only had the name of his relative without any further information. We then needed to check with the Hong Kong Museum of History and Births and Deaths Registries. Langham Place Hotel, 555 Shanghai St., Mong Kok, 3552-3388.

This could be yours in

HONG KONG For Advertising rates and further information. Call 2850 5678 F e b r u a r y 2 015 I WHERE H ONG KONG 43

Navigate | The Guide Buses Hong Kong has two major bus companies: Kowloon Motor Bus — 2745-4466, www.kmb.hk. citybus / New World First BUS — 2136-8888/2873-0818, www.nwstbus.com.hk.

Sights & Attractions Avenue of Stars — Fans of Hong Kong movies will find their heroes' hand- and footprints permanently etched in concrete along the Avenue of the Stars, as well as a statue of Bruce Lee. Go at 8pm for the nightly music-and-laser extravaganza called the Symphony of Lights. Music only plays over the loudspeakers here, although the harborfront light display can be seen from around the city. Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront, Tsim Sha Tsui.

Hong Kong Observation Wheel — The city now has its own ferris wheel right by Victoria Harbour, for those can't get enough of Hong Kong's stunning skyline. 33 Man Kwong St., Central. Hong Kong Park — This 8-hectare park has a large walk-through aviary, a conservatory housing unusual and exotic plants, sports and squash centers, a multistory playground, a tai chi garden and a clock tower. In the conservation corner are more than 100 species of dragonflies. Also worth visiting are the Flagstaff House Museum of Tea Ware and the Hong Kong Visual Arts Centre. 19 Cotton Tree Drive, Central, 2521-5041. Hong Kong Wetland Park — This worldclass ecotourism attraction demonstrates the diversity of Hong Kong's wetlands, and the importance of conservation. It's a 61-hectare site with user-friendly facilities such as a stream walk, succession walk, mangrove boardwalk and bird hides. Wetland Park Rd., Tin Shui Wai, 3152-2666. Jade Market — In Chinese culture, jade is associated with good health and a long life. The jade market stalls sell everything from expensive carved jade to cheap trinkets, as well as pearls and other jewelry of varying quality. Kansu St. and Battery St., Yau Ma Tei.

Big Buddha

Big Buddha — Situated beside Po Lin Monastery on Lantau Island is the Big Buddha—the largest seated outdoor bronze Buddha in the world. The statue is set amid mountains and hiking trails, and looks absolutely stunning on a clear day from the Ngong Ping cable car. Nearby is The Wisdom Path, lined with wood carvings featuring the calligraphy from an important text for Confucians, Buddhists and Taoists. The vegetarian restaurant within the monastery is the best option if you're famished. Ngong Ping Village, Lantau Island, 2985-5248. Chi Lin Nunnery — An oasis of peace in the heart of Kowloon, this graceful, wooden Buddhist nunnery is the largest building in the world to be constructed using no nails—only wooden dowels and brackets. It's a 33,000-square-meter complex whose architectural style dates back to the Tang Dynasty, although the buildings themselves were completed in 1998. It's centered on a courtyard filled with lotus ponds, and a stroll through the gardens makes for a bucolic escape. Vegetarian food is available in a quaint teahouse. 5 Chi Lin Drive, Diamond Hill, 2354-1888. Duk Ling Chinese Sailing Junk — Launched in 1955, the Duk Ling is one of the last authentic sailing junks in Hong Kong. It can carry up to 36 passengers. 2573-5282. Fa Yuen Street — Heaving with bargain hunters every afternoon, Fa Yuen Street is stuffed with cheap fashion boutiques, factory outlets and accessories stores for men, women and children. Fa Yuen St., Prince Edward. 44 W H E R E HONG KONG I F e b r u a r y 2 015

Ladies' Market — Find dog toys, trinkets and accessories, racy underwear, costume jewelry and more all along this road. Down the side lanes are vintage shops, fashion outlets and the occasional restaurant. Tung Choi St., Mong Kok. Open daily noon-11:30pm.

Man Mo Temple

Man Mo Temple — This atmospheric temple must be one of the most photographed in Hong Kong. Great incense spirals dangle from the rafters, filling the roof space with aromatic smoke and lending a deep patina to the statues of gods Man Cheong (god of literature) and Kuan Ti (god of martial arts, or Mo) on the altars. 126 Hollywood Rd., near Ladder St., Sheung Wan.

Ngong Ping 360

Ngong Ping 360 — This kitschy culturalthemed village features dining, retail and entertainment attractions. The cable car offers panoramic views as it passes over North Lantau Country Park to the Big Buddha. 111 Ngong Ping Rd., Lantau Island, 3666-0606. Ocean Park — Get up close and personal with a dolphin or a panda, walk through a shark tank, dive into a coral reef or whirl upside down on a roller coaster. Located near Aberdeen, Ocean Park manages to amuse and educate with its marine and bird life exhibits, giant panda enclosure, wild headland rides, and a cable car trip between the park's two parts. 180 Wong Chuk Hang Rd., Aberdeen, 2552-0291.

Lan Kwai Fong

Lan Kwai Fong — Thankfully closed to cars most of the time, these thoroughfares are jam-packed full of bars and nightclubs, with revelers spilling out into the streets at all hours. Attracting yuppies and visitors like moths to a flame, a good night out in Lan Kwai Fong is almost guaranteed. Lan Kwai Fong, near D'Aguilar St., Central. Mai Po Marshes — Who knew that Hong Kong was a bird-watcher's paradise? The 1,500-hectare Mai Po Marshes reserve is run by the World Wildlife Fund and is a designated Wetland of International Importance thanks to the thousands of migratory wading birds passing through each autumn and winter. Mai Po Nature Reserve, Yuen Long, 2482-0369.

Peak Tram

Peak Tram — There was a time when the best way up the Peak was by sedan chair— a grueling experience, particularly for the bearers. So the arrival of the Peak Tram was a blessing, one for which we are still thankful. The little funicular railway is one of the best trips in town, panting up Hong Kong Island's tallest mountain at a seemingly impossible angle that enchants all aboard. Sit on the right for the best views. St. Joseph's Building, Central, 2522-0922.

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Sha Tin Racecourse — Join the screaming hordes at Happy Valley and Sha Tin racecourses for a few adrenalin-fueled hours. Mingle with the masses in the stands, or opt for the more refined atmosphere in the boxes. The season runs September to mid-June, with about 700 races a year held an average of twice a week.

Stanley

Stanley — The seaside township of Stanley has a market, shops, restaurants and bars that line a bay on one side and a beach on the other. It's the perfect place to take a walk along the waterfront, chill at an alfresco resto and pick up some souvenirs. Stanley Main St., Stanley. Tai O — It would be wishful thinking to describe this fishing village as a Venice of the East, but there's no doubting the charm of its maze of stilt houses built over a creek on the northwestern coast of Lantau Island. It's a fascinating slice of old Hong Kong, with dried fish stalls, trays of smelly shrimp paste, a picturesque Tin Hau Temple at the end of a causeway and a couple of interesting little museums. A boutique hotel and restaurant add a touch of colonial elegance to the traditional town. Lantau Island.

HONG KONG Ten Thousand Buddhas

Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery — One of the most celebrated monasteries in Hong Kong, the Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery actually has more than 12,800 Buddhas stored in five temples, four pavilions and a nine-story pagoda. The one that you're likely to remember best is the mummified Buddhist monk, who sits in splendor, coated in gold leaf, inside a glass case. Light meals are served at the on-site vegetarian restaurant. Sha Tin, 2691-1067.

TAKE HONG KONG WITH YOU, EVER YOUR TRAVELS MAY TAKE YOU. Subscribe to WHERE Hong Kong’s eBook edition and have every issue delivered straight to your inbox, once monthly. tiny.cc/whk-ebook

Wong Tai Sin Temple — Named after the deity Wong Tai Sin, this Taoist temple completed its restoration in 1973 and is a popular shrine for local pilgrims who want to glimpse their future via a Chinese practice called "kau cim." Lung Cheung Rd., Wong Tai Sin, 2327-8141. F EBRUARY 2 015 I WHERE H ONG KONG 45

Walking Tours | The Guide

A Walk of Good Fortune The Wong Tai Sin district gets its name from the famous Sik Sik Yuen Wong Tai Sin Temple, the area’s most prominent landmark. It attracts thousands of worshippers on a daily basis who seek help for personal or business matters. Other places of interest include the Hau Wong Temple, which dates back to the Qing Dynasty, and Nan Lian Garden, built in the style of the ancient Tang Dynasty. The neighboring area of Kowloon City is where the last emperor of the Song Dynasty fled after he escaped invading Mongol forces more than 700 years ago. More recently, it housed an infamously lawless enclave, the Kowloon Walled City, which was torn down in 1994 and replaced by a park of the same name. The district is also renowned for its dining, with some 200 restaurants within a 10-block radius catering to a wide variety of tastes. 46 W H E R E HONG KONG I F e b r u a r y 2 015

Take the MTR to Diamond Hill Station. Leave the station from Exit C2 and follow the signs to Nan Lian Garden.

Nan Lian Garden This 35,000-square-meter Tang Dynasty-style garden features characteristic timber structures, water ponds, various oddly shaped rocks, and lots of old and valuable trees. Apart from the scenic Lotus Pond and Blue Pond, there is also a restaurant called Chi Lin Vegetarian where visitors can enjoy meat-free food provided by the Chi Lin Nunnery. Visitors can also experience Chinese tea-drinking culture and etiquette at the teahouse within the garden’s grounds. Get back on the MTR and get out at Wong Tai Sin Station, exit B3. Follow the signs to Sik Sik Yuen Wong Tai Sin Temple.

Sik Sik Yuen Wong Tai Sin Temple This is one of the most popular temples in Hong Kong. According to legend, Wong Tai Sin is able to “make every wish come true upon request.” The temple is home to three different religions: Taoism, Buddhism and Confucianism. The part containing Wong Tai Sin’s portrait is where worshippers pray for good fortune through offerings, and seek divine guidance through fortune telling. Shake a bamboo container filled with fortune sticks and see what the future holds. Open daily, 7am–5:30pm. Take the MTR to Lok Fu Station. Leave the station via Exit B and follow the directional signs to Hau Wong Temple.

Hau Wong Temple One of the legends surrounding this temple, built in 1730 under the Qing Dynasty, says it was erected to commemorate a Chinese general who helped the last Song emperor escape the forces invading Kowloon. Another legend, though, claims it was dedicated to a local inhabitant who had cured the last emperor of the southern Song Dynasty of a serious illness. Cross the road and walk along Tung Tau Tsuen Road to reach the North Gate of Kowloon Walled City Park.

Kowloon Walled City Park By a quirk of history, Kowloon Walled City remained outside British jurisdiction after Hong Kong became a colonyâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and subsequently became an area with an infamous reputation. Today, this Chinese-style park harmoniously combines the history and atmosphere of the former Walled City. Sites worth visiting include the Garden of the Chinese Zodiac, the Chess Garden, the Mountain View Pavilion and the Garden of Four Seasons. Open daily, 6:30am-11pm. Call 2716-9962 for more information. Walk through Kowloon Walled City Park and Carpenter Road Park. Cross Carpenter Road to reach Nam Kok Road, also known as the Kowloon City food district.

Kowloon City Food District An area of 10 streets bounded by Prince Edward Road West, Junction Road and Carpenter Road, the Kowloon City Food District is where you can find some 200 inexpensive and often family-run restaurants serving mostly local favorites, Southeast Asian cuisine and yummy western pastries. Afterwards, take green minibus 25M from Sa Po Road (beside the Regal Oriental Hotel) to Kowloon Tong MTR Station for your onwards destination. F e b r u a r y 2 015 I WHERE H ONG KONG 47

map of Central ÂŠ OpenStreetMap contributors. See openstreetmap.org

48 W H E R E HONG KONG I f e b r u a r y 2 015

30 Things we LOve about Hong Kong 6

1 Trying tai chi for free in front of the Hong Kong Museum of Art from 8am to 9am every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui. 2 Dressing up for high tea at The Peninsula. Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-3169. 3 Watching the sunset from tranquil Pui O Beach, Lantau Island. 4 Having our palms read at the Temple Street night market, Yau Ma Tei. 5 Spotting endangered white dolphins with Dolphinwatch off Lantau Island, 2984-1414. 6 Seeing all your animated favorites come to life at Hong Kong Disneyland, Lantau Island, 1830-830. 7 Dining aboard the kitschycool Jumbo Kingdom floating restaurant. Shum Wan Pier Drive, Aberdeen, 2553-9111. 8 Cruising Victoria Harbour on the Duk Ling, an authentic Chinese fishing junk, 2573-5282.

9 Shaking fortune-telling bamboo sticks at the Wong Tai Sin Temple.

!7 Riding the cable car 5.7 kilometers over Lantau’s lush valleys to visit the Ngong Ping cultural-themed village and the Big Buddha.

@3 Taking the oldest ride in Hong Kong—a tram from Kennedy Town to Causeway Bay.

!4 Listening to a Chinese tea expert on tea-drinking etiquette. Free talk at Lock Cha Tea Shop from 4pm to 5pm every Monday, Wednesday and Friday. Call 2805-1360.

@1 Exploring Lamma Island, then feasting on deep-fried squid at Rainbow Seafood. 25 First St., Sok Kwu Wan, Lamma Island, 2982-8100.

@7 Drinking at panoramic bar Aqua Spirit. 29/F, One Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3427-2288.

!5 Haggling with hawkers for jade, gold and cheap jewelry at the Jade Market. Kansu and Battery Streets, Yau Ma Tei.

@2 Marveling at the beautiful Chi Lin Nunnery, the world’s largest building constructed without nails. 5 Chi Lin Drive, Diamond Hill, 2354-1888.

!0 Saying hi to Bruce Lee at the Avenue of Stars, Tsim Sha Tsui. !1 Shopping for antique kitsch on Cat Street (Upper Lascar Row), Sheung Wan. !2 Eating with the locals at a dai pai dong food stall. Stanley Street, Central (by the escalators). !3 Hiking along the beautiful Sai Kung Peninsula.

!6 Getting a shave at the Mandarin Barber, 2/F, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2522-0111.

50 W H E R E HONG KONG I F e b r u a r y 2 015

@4 Enjoying free kung fu demonstrations and cultural !8 Snaking through the highperformances at Kowloon Park rises on the Mid-Levels every Sunday from 2:30pm to Escalator. Cochrane, Shelley, and 4:30pm. Weather permitting. Peel Streets, Central. @5 Slurping oysters for brunch !9 Checking out the eco-friendly at Café Deco. 1-2/F, The Peak Hong Kong Wetland Park. Galleria, 118 Peak Rd., The Peak, Tin Shui Wai, New Territories, 2849-5111. 3152-2666. @6 Taking a walk down the @0 Shopping at the PMQ. Historic Trail at the Museum of 35 Aberdeen St., Central. Coastal Defence, 2569-1500.

@8 Checking out the KowloonCanton Railway clock tower. Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui. @9 Snacking on egg tarts at Tai Cheong Bakery. 32 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, 2554-3475. #0 Bird-watching at the Mai Po Marshes, Mai Po, 2526-1011.

Arch Angel Authenticated museum quality Asian antiquities. 53/55 Hollywood Road • Central • Hong Kong • Tel: (852) 2851 6848 • Fax: (852) 2851 6778 • Open Daily: 9:30-6:30 Email: antiques@ArchAngelAntiques.com.hk