WHERE Hong Kong - January 2015 by WHERE Hong Kong

January 2015 the complete guide to go速

Hong Kong

A Feast for the Senses The amazing sights, sounds and tastes of Hong Kong

Travel tips from Lonely Planet Top new Restaurants Local designer Melissa Bui

... savour the uniqueness ... savour the moment ....

w w w. s e v va . h k

where Hong Kong 1.2015 ®

the guide

06 Hot Dates Hong Kong’s hottest concerts, shows and events

16 art + culture Top galleries and our pick of what’s happening

20 dining Your A-Z of the best eats in town

26 Drinks Our favorite places to sip cocktails

38 Walking Tour Explore a neighborhood on foot

40 Map Central, Tsim Sha Tsui

Also inside 28 Shops + services From mega malls to local designers

features 10 Come To your senses Discover Hong Kong through all five senses

20 Top Tables Hong Kong’s best new restaurants

32 The Savvy TRaveler Travel tips from Lonely Planet author Piera Chen

32 NAVIGATE Fast facts and essential info 42 30 THINGS WE LOVE Hong Kong’s all-time top spots and best experiences

on the cover There’s plenty to see in Hong Kong— and also plenty to touch, taste, smell and hear. Engage all of your senses with our comprehensive guide to the city on p.10.

wheretraveler.com The website from the editors of Where Magazine. Get all the latest city buzz from our experts—info only the locals know.

j a n u a r y 2 015 I WHERE hong k o n g 3

where

maga z ine

On the web: www.wherehongkong.com HK Magazine Media group HK | ADVERTISING & CIRCULATION General MANAGER & Publisher Greg Crandall director of sales Gary Wong Strategic Sales Director Jan Cheng Associate Advertising Director Joe Ng Senior Sales Manager Joyce Wu Senior Advertising Manager Kent Ma Advertising Manager Dominic Lucien Brettell Advertising Executive Bonita Yung, Celia Wong, Harriette Cheung, Lamy Lam Advertising Coordinator Christine So Marketing MANAGER James Gannaban Marketing & Circulation Executive Charmaine Mirandilla Accounts Services Executive Sharon Cheung IT SYSTEMS Manager Derek Wong

HK | EDITORIAL EDITOR-in-chief Zach Hines EDITOR Adele Wong STAFF WRITER Evelyn Lok CONTRIBUTORs Melissa Frankenberry, Tristan Ruzic, Katie Kenny

HK | PRODUCTION PRODUCTION MANAGER Blackie Hui ART DIRECTOR Pierre Pang Senior graphic designer Mike Hung graphic designer Iris Mak

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS HK | executive PRESIDENT Donna W. Kessler Vice president of operations Angela E. Allen Chief Travel Editor Geoff Kohl general manager, where maps Christopher Huber DIRECTOR OF CIRCULATION Scott Ferguson NATIONAL MARKETING MANAGER Melissa Blanco

mvp | national sales VICE PRESIDENT, NATIONAL SALES Rick Mollineaux DIRECTOR OF PARTNERSHIPS & NATIONAL DIGITAL SALES Bridget Duffie NATIONAL SALES COORDINATOR David Gately

MORRIS COMUNICATIONS Chairman & ceo William S. Morris III PRESident William S. Morris IV

mvp | cREATIVE CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER Haines Wilkerson Senior Regional Editorial Director Margaret Martin design DIRECTOR Jane Frey photography director Susan Strayer CREATIVE COORDINATOR Beverly Mandelblatt

mvp | manufacturing & technology director of manufacturing Donald Horton

where

HONG KONG

Room 302, 3/F, Hollywood Centre, 233 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, Hong Kong Phone: 2850-5065 Fax: 2543-1880 Published by where Hong Kong Publishing Ltd., Printed by Apex Print Limited, 11-13 Dai Kwai Street, Tai Po Industrial Estate, Tai Po, New Territories. where makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited. where is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications-Where Magazine. ®

Before you decide to purchase or use the products and/or services that our magazine introduces, you should gather further information about the same in addition to the representations or advertising contents in our magazine. *The contents in articles by guest authors are the author’s personal views only and do not represent the position of our magazine or our company. Please gather further information about the products and/ or services before you decide to purchase or use the same.*

Painted Pottery Fat Lady Figure Tang Dynasty

early pottery ceramics sculptures authenticated museum and collector quality

hot dates Hong Kong By Evelyn Lok

January 24-25 Fischer for Compliments Canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t tell the difference between a snare hiss and a drum roll? Award-winning multi-percussionist Johannes Fischer is here to set that right. Together with Yip Wing-sie and the Hong Kong Sinfonietta, he's performing a range of exuberant works written for percussion. Jan 24, 7:30pm; 25, 3pm. Concert Hall, City Hall, 5 Edinburgh Place, Central, $140-300 from www.urbtix.hk.

6 W H E R E HONG KONG I j a n u a r y 2 015

hot dates Through January 18

Phantom Spectacle Arguably Andrew Lloyd Webber’s best musical, “The Phantom of the Opera” comes to Hong Kong this winter, and is bigger and better than ever. The Phantom will be played by Broadway star Brad Little, accompanied by an international cast of 37 actors. Eight more shows have been added to the schedule, so if you couldn’t get tickets before, now’s your chance. Dec 21-Jan 18 (various times). AsiaWorld-Arena, Sky Plaza Rd., Chek Lap Kok. $295-1,195 from www.hkticketing.com.

January 9-11

January 2-4

Godot See It

Gypsy Tales

Local theater veterans Lee Chun-chow and Sean Curran (co-founder of Scottish troupe Theatre du Pif) tackle Samuel Beckett’s absurdist masterpiece "Waiting for Godot.” For those unacquainted with the production, the tragicomedy is performed against a stark and empty backdrop, save for a bare tree. Two vagrants sit waiting for a certain Mr. Godot, who they are certain will arrive today. Rich philosophical fodder here, but it's also riotously funny.

The Antonio Gades Company, aka flamenco royalty, will grace Hong Kong with three performances of “Carmen”—the ultimate gypsy femme fatale—set to Gades' acclaimed original choreography. The dance is based on the original novella by Prosper Mérimée and is a tale of Romani bandits, romance, and jealousy. Jan 2-3, 8:15pm; Jan 4, 3pm. Grand Theatre, Cultural Centre, 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, $180-520 from www.urbtix.hk.

Jan 9-11, 8pm; Jan 10-11, 3pm. Studio Theatre, Cultural Centre, 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui. $140-220 from www.urbtix.hk.

j a n u a r y 2 015 I WHERE H ONG KONG 7

Y Y

hot dates Hong Kong January 7

January 17 Onwards

January 17-25

Bastille Day

Tonno Fun

Dolly Dearest

UK rockers Bastille are named after frontman Dan Smith’s birthday, which falls on Bastille Day. The indie four-piece is probably best known for its 2013 hit “Pompeii,” which was nominated as the British Single of the Year at the 2014 BRIT Awards. The boys bring their signature brand of sentimental pop to KITEC.

This is your chance to see Hong Kong celebrities Carina Lau, Tony Leung Ka-fai and Tse kwan-ho on stage in this second re-run of "Tonnochy." Set in late 70s Hong Kong, the story centers on Wan Chai's notorious Tonnochy Night Club and the scandalous world of the ultra-rich, plus the bar managers, hostesses and mama-sans who serve them. Performed in Cantonese, with English and Chinese surtitles.

The Hong Kong Repertory Theatre's first show of 2015 is a Cantonese take on the acclaimed Broadway musical, “Hello, Dolly!” The story focuses on Dolly, a brash yet quickwitted matchmaker who is tasked to help the wealthy bachelor Horace find a wife—until her meddling leads her to discover true love herself. Starring Hong Kong actress Mimi Lo as Dolly with live accompaniment.

7:30pm, Star Hall, KITEC, 1 Trademart Drive, Kowloon Bay. $680 from www.hkticketing.com; $720 at the door.

Jan 17, 20-24, 27-31, 8pm; Jan 18, 25, 3pm; Feb 1, 3pm; 3, 8pm. Lyric Theatre, Academy for Performing Arts, 1 Gloucester Rd., Wan Chai, 2584-8500. $180-1,200 from www.hkticketing.com.

Jan 17-18, 20-24, 7:45pm; Jan 24-25, 2:45pm. Grand Theatre, Cultural Centre, 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, $160-240 from www.urbtix.hk.

January 22-24

January 30-31

January 31

One Ring to Rule Them All

Dynamic Duo

Back On Track

Before Sadako’s cursed “Ringu” videos and J. R. R. Tolkien’s beloved novels, there was Wagner’s “The Ring” cycle—four epic operas, which the Hong Kong Philharmonic will be performing over four years in collaboration with an international cast. Catch the 2.5-hour performance of the first part, “Das Rheingold,” this January.

The original Miss Saigon, Fantine of “Les Misérables,” and Disney diva extraordinaire Lea Salonga returns to perform with the Hong Kong Philharmonic. Together with her brother, Gerard Salonga, she’ll perform some of her greatest hits, plus new numbers too.

Lily Allen makes her Hong Kong debut early in the year. Ever since returning to music in 2013 after a three-year hiatus, she's shed her bad-girl image, but not the shock factor of her provocative lyrics. Don’t miss it!

Jan 22, 24, 8pm. Concert Hall, Cultural Centre, 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui. $280-880 from www.urbtix.hk. 8 W H E R E HONG KONG I j a n u a r y 2 015

Jan 30-31, 8pm. Concert Hall, Cultural Centre, 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, $200-580 from www.urbtix.hk.

Jan 31, 7pm. Hall 10, AsiaWorld-Expo, Chek Lap Kok, $788 from www.hkticketing.com.

Address: Ground Floor, 1E Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong. (Opposite the Holiday Inn Golden Mile Hotel’s Mody Road entrance) Telephone: 2368-0040, 2723-0056 Email: laelite@netvigator.com 九龍尖沙咀麼地道1E地下 (金域假日酒店麼地道入口對面)

Come to Your Senses Experience Hong Kong through all five senses. By Tristan Ruzic, Melissa Frankenberry

Tian Tan Buddha

SEE Tian Tan Buddha

Chi Lin Nunnery

For a humbling experience, ride the Ngong Ping 360 cable car over lush green mountains for a pilgrimage to the largerthan-life Tian Tan Buddha. The mighty statue is 35-meters high—its sheer height will make your jaw drop.

The Chi Lin Nunnery is a large wooden temple complex made entirely without nails, set amongst tranquil lotus ponds and a gorgeously primmed garden. The atmosphere is a peaceful calm as you walk along the partially shaded paths and take in the beautiful surrounds. The inside of the nunnery is just as exquisite: bright colors, gold details and clay statues abound. No pictures are allowed inside the temple walls, so only a personal visit will do.

Ngong Ping Cable Car, 11 Tat Tung Rd., Tung Chung, Lantau, 3666-0606, www.np360.com.hk.

Chi Lin Nunnery

5 Chi Lin Drive, Diamond Hill, 2354-1888, www.chilin.org.

The Hong Kong Skyline Taking in Hong Kong’s iconic skyline should be on the top of every visitor’s list, and there’s no better vantage point than at The Peak, 552 meters above sea level. On a clear, sunny day, one can see some of the tallest, most distinctly shaped buildings in the world spread out over Hong Kong Island and the southern tips of Kowloon. Peak Tram Lower Terminus, 33 Garden Rd., Central, 2522-0922, www.thepeak.com.hk. Hong Kong skyline as seen from The Peak 10 W H E R E HONG KONG I j a n u a r y 2 015

Bruce Lee at the Avenue of Stars

TOUCH

HEAR

Celebrities’ Palms

Cantonese Opera

Hold hands with celebrities Jackie Chan and Maggie Cheung—or at least touch their handprints at the Avenue of Stars in Tsim Sha Tsui. Walk along the beautiful harborside promenade and admire the Hong Kong skyline while acknowledging some of the most outstanding professionals in the Hong Kong film industry.

Cantonese opera is a loud and colorful affair. There are the beautiful costumes, the heavy makeup—and most important of all, the high, shrill voices of the performers singing about their woes and triumphs to the beat of gongs and antiquated instruments. Don’t miss out on January’s upcoming performances: there’s one featuring songs written by composer Wong Yuet-sang, performed in six different acts.

Tsim Sha Tsui Promenade, Tsim Sha Tsui, www.avenueofstars.com.hk.

Custom Fabrics

The Avenue of Stars

Hong Kong is one of the most convenient places to get a custom suit or outfit made. There are so many options and so many beautiful fabrics to choose from; the hard part is in making the decision. Sam’s Tailor is a great place to start for a fully tailored suit. On average, it takes about three weeks from start to end product, including two fittings. Turn great fabrics like a cashmere wool blend into a great navy blue suit (from $2,700 and up). Another excellent option is A-Man Hing Cheong at the Mandarin Oriental. The fabrics used for the tailor-made suits are mostly imported from Italy and of top-notch quality. Sam’s Tailor, Burlington Arcade, 90-94C Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, samstailor.com, 2367-9423. A-Man Hing Cheong, Mandarin Oriental Hotel, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2522-3336.

A Concert Featuring Cantonese Operatic Songs by Wong Yuet-sang: $100-220. Jan 16. 7:30pm. Tsuen Wan Town Hall, 72 Tai Ho Rd., Tsuen Wan, 3761-6661.

CantoPop Get a sense of Hongkongers’ taste in music by checking out a concert by a local pop star. Veteran singer Sammi Cheng and young prodigy G.E.M. both have performances lined up for January. Nineties Cantopop queen Sammi Cheng’s music will get you dancing in your chair before you know it. You can also count on G.E.M. to Get Everyone Moving (which is what the singer’s initials stand for). Sammi Cheng: $300 and up. Jan 1-2, 8:15pm. G.E.M.: $298 and up. Jan 14-18, 8:15 pm. Hong Kong Coliseum, 9 Cheon Wan Rd., Hung Hom, www.urbtix.hk.

Choose a fabric for your next suit

j a n u a r y 2 015 I WHERE H ONG KONG 11

Burning incense at Wong Tai Sin Temple

Incense coils can be found in temples all over the city

SMELL Dried Seafood

Incense

In traditional Cantonese fare, dried seafood is an essential component. Whether it’s dried scallops (also known as conpoy) or fish maw, dried seafood is used in sauces, sprinkled on top of dishes, or featured as a star ingredient in specific recipes. Catch a whiff of dried seafood’s savory aroma on Sheung Wan’s Des Voeux Road West and Wing Lok Street. You’ll know you’re approaching the area when the potent smell tingles your nose. Try bargaining with the vendors to see if you can drive down the price of a piece of salted fish or exotic abalone.

Hong Kong is a city full of interesting scents, and one of the most distinct is that of fragrant incense burning at many of the roadside temples. To experience it for yourself, check out Man Mo Temple on Hollywood Road in Sheung Wan. Built in the 1800s, this site is said to be the oldest temple in Hong Kong. Colorful and noisy, the temple welcomes everyone inside to observe the Taoist and Buddhist traditions. It’s the perfect opportunity to immerse yourself in the culture—remember to bow three times every time you approach a statue representing a different deity. Alternatively, make a trek to the Sik Sik Yuen Wong Tai Sin Temple. The interesting statues, beautifully decorated pillars, and the smell of the burning incense alone would be enough to get you off the street and in to see the stunning temple. See the three religions of Taoism, Buddhism and Confucianism living harmoniously under one roof.

Des Voeux Road West and Wing Lok Street, Sheung Wan (follow the tram line).

Wong Tai Sin Temple

Man Mo Temple: 126 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2540-0350. Wong Tai Sin Temple: 2 Chuk Yuen Village, Wong Tai Sin, 2327-8141.

Inside Man Mo Temple 12 W H E R E HONG KONG I j a n u a r y 2 015

Chef Umberto Bombana runs the only three-Michelin-starred Italian restaurant in Asia

Dim Sum

Sushi Shikon has three Michelin stars

TASTE Street Food

Sushi Shikon

Street food in Hong Kong would not be complete without two staple items: egg waffles and fish balls. Egg waffles are made in a dimpled, double-sided griddle resulting in a hollow, spherical, “egg puff.” This shape is what allows the exterior to be perfectly crispy while the insides stay warm and fluffy. Some vendors even offer different flavors, like chocolate and green tea. Check out Mammy Pancake in Hung Hom for some of the most delectable egg waffles on the Kowloon side. If you’re looking for a more savory street snack, try fish balls, made of corn starch and fish, and cooked in a hot curry sauce bath. A favorite fish ball noodle spot for locals is Yum Kee in Tai Po—it might be a bit of a journey to get to, but definitely worth the trip. Mammy Pancake: Shop 2A, Whampoa St., Hung Hom. Yum Kee: Unit CFS36, 2/F, Tai Po Hui Market, 8 Heung Sze Wui St., Tai Po.

There is no better place for dim sum than in Hong Kong. Plenty of options abound, from humble streetside joints to fancy dim sum halls. For a quintessential experience, try Maxim’s Palace at City Hall. The doubleheight space feels especially grand and the spectacular views of Victoria Harbour don’t hurt. The dim sum dishes come on trolleys, and you can order everything from har gow (prawn dumplings) to cheong fun (rice noodle rolls) to char siu bao (steamed barbecue pork buns). Maxim’s Palace, 2/F, City Hall, 5-7 Edinburgh Place, Central, 2521-1303.

Michelin-Starred Restaurants Treat your taste buds at a Michelinguide-endorsed restaurant. The international dining authority recently released its 2015 edition, giving a total of 153 restaurants either a sought-after star status or a recommendation. There are a total of five restaurants with the prestigious three-star rating— the highest given by the guide. Remember to book ahead if you want to enjoy a meal at one of these top-toch establishments: Bo Innovation, L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, Lung King Heen, 8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo or Sushi Shikon.

Mammy Pancake j a n u a r y 2 015 I WHERE H ONG KONG 13

where

the guide It’s All About the Details

Season’s Treatings Parisian confectioner Pierre Herme has created a colorful range of holiday macarons in strange and wonderful flavors, just in time for Christmas. Try the zesty green apple variety (pictured) or be more adventurous and go for the foie gras, fig and wild rose combo. Classic winter flavors like marron glace (candied chestnut) are also available. Shop 1019C, IFC, 8 Finance St., Central, 2833-5700.

Up-and-coming Hong Kong designer Melissa Bui has been splashing her creativity all over the runways this year. Bui launched her eponymous brand in 2013, weaving detailed embellishments and dreamy concepts into her collections, which are made with the modern woman in mind. Whether you’re looking for a glitzy party dress or a head-turning formal get-up, Bui’s looks are made for special occasions. Melissa Bui, 1/F, 92 Connaught Rd. West, Sheung Wan. By appointment only.

Art+culture | The Guide

Masters of Art Cool exhibitions from two leading artists. By Evelyn Lok

Take it to the Streets Hong Kong's most beloved street photographer Ho Fan made his name in the 50s and 60s by snapping shots of everyday Hong Kong. He returns with a new body of work at AO Vertical in “A Hong Kong Memoir” by overlapping multiple layers of old negatives, to surreal effect. Through Jan 31. AO Vertical Art Space, 3-13/F, Asia One Tower, 8 Fung Yip St., Chai Wan, 2976-0913.

Ho Fan

Into the Fire The Russian-born, Macau-based Konstantin Bessmertny returns with a cultural mix-up of old and new works in his exhibition “Stir-Fry.” See his signature surreal and absurdist oil paintings, which comment on everything from the way he values intelligence, to tongue-in-cheek references to the progress of humankind. Whether they're mosaic-like canvases or elaborate interior scenes, you'll find intricately painted detail matched with a brutish cast of characters, often in the middle of borderline offensive acts. In Bessmertny's words, “straightforward messages are disturbing”—so expect a grand time trying to decipher every hidden story. Through Jan 31. 10 Chancery Lane Gallery, G/F, 10 Chancery Lane, Central, 2810-0065.

Konstantin Bessmertny

10 Chancery Lane Gallery — Founded in 2001, this gallery focuses on established and emerging artists from around the world. Consisting of three large gallery spaces, it not only holds exhibitions of paintings, photographs, installations and videos, but also performances. Featured Hong Kong artists include Simon Birch, William Furniss and Anthony Lam. G/F, 10 Chancery Lane, Central, 2810-0065. 1a Space — Founded in 1998, 1a Space—located in a former cattle shed—is one of the city’s leading contemporary visual art organizations. An independent, non-profit venture established by a group of local artists, it encourages interaction between the art community and the public through frequent exhibitions, seminars, festivals and cultural-exchange programs. Unit 14, Cattle Depot Artist Village, 63 Ma Tau Kok Rd., To Kwa Wan, 2529-0087. AP Contemporary — AP Contemporary is dedicated to supporting up-and-coming contemporary artists, especially those from developing countries like Brazil, Russia, India and China. Having said that, European and American talents are also represented at this space. 28 Tai Ping Shan St., Sheung Wan, 3105-2118.

Above Second — Opened since 2010 in Hong Kong, Above Second adds a slice of urban attitude to the city’s vibrant art scene by showing work from art schools or the streets. With a non-stop lineup of international artists in residencies, you’ll see everything from graffiti to graphic design, pop culture to street art here. 9 First St., Sai Ying Pun, 3483-7950. Agnes b. Librairie Galerie — French fashion chain and long-time supporter of the arts, Agnès b. has a contemporary art space dedicated to showing the best from Asia and the world. G/F, 118 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2869-5505. Alisan Fine Arts — This well-established gallery has organized hundreds of exhibitions for Chinese artists from around the world. It also mounts exhibitions for overseas venues. Room 2305, Hing Wai Centre, 7 Tin Wan Praya Rd., Aberdeen, 2526-1091. Art Beatus Gallery — Established in the early 1990s, Art Beatus features mainly original paintings and art by contemporary Chinese artists. Most of its collection has a retro slant, and uses elements of pop, propaganda, illustration and cartoons as vehicles for expression. G/F, 129-133 Wellington St., Central 2526-0818.

Asia Society Gallery

Asia Society Gallery — Asia Society Hong Kong’s expansive headquarters are in a beautifully refurbished former storehouse for British artillery and ammunition. Playing host to a myriad of lectures, exhibitions, performances, film screenings, tours, seminars and conferences—97 percent of which are open to the public—the Asia Society is a literal treasure trove. 9 Justice Drive, Admiralty, 2103-9511. Ben Brown Fine Arts — After 10 years at Sotheby’s and two more at a private gallery, Ben Brown and his wife sought to create a space that housed pieces reflective of their tastes—primarily on European modern and contemporary artworks. Unit 301, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2522-9600.

You’ll find some of the best art and antique galleries in town along Hong Kong Island’s Hollywood Road.

16 W H E R E HONG KONG I j a n u a r y 2 015

Art+culture Blindspot Gallery — Blindspot Gallery relocated from its original Central location to this larger industrial warehouse in Aberdeen, on the south side of Hong Kong Island. It’s the setting for large-scale exhibitions, private viewings and special events. 15/F, Po Chai Industrial Building, 28 Wong Chuk Hang Rd., Aberdeen, 2517-6238. Connoisseur Art Gallery — Specializing in contemporary Chinese fine art since 1989, Connoisseur features such acclaimed artists as Paris-based Jia Juan-li, renowned Guangzhou artist Zhang Da-zhong and still life artist Liu Ying-zhao. Shop G3, Chinachem Hollywood Centre, 1 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2868-5358. Contemporary by Angela Li — Perhaps best known for introducing Chinese artists Chen Jiagang and Liao Yibai to the art world, CBAL boasts a lovely space and carefully curated exhibitions. G/F, 248 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 3571-8200. de Sarthe Gallery — Specializing in the sale of 19th and 20th century masters, previous exhibitions have shown the works of art world greats such as Miro, Picasso and Chu Teh-chun, just to name a few. First opening in Paris in 1977 and branching out across the US and Europe, de Sarthe finally opened its first Asian outpost in Hong Kong in 2011. 8/F, Club Lusitano Building, 16 Ice House St., Central, 2167-8896. Duddell’s — Duddell’s is an elegant dim sum eatery by day, hopping bar at night, and art hub round the clock; you’ll find some of the most thought-provoking contemporary art in town at this intimate social space. It regularly hosts curator and artist talks—with classy tipples to boot. 3-4/F, Shanghai Tang Mansion, 1 Duddell St., Central, 2525-9191. Erarta Gallery — Opened in November 2014, Erarta gallery Hong Kong is the fifth branch of the global purveyor of Russian contemporary arts, and the very first branch of the gallery group in Asia. Its massive two-story, 300-squaremeter space provides ample opportunity to showcase the more than 150 represented artists from across 30 regions of Russia. 159 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2685-5199. F11 Photographic Museum — This museum, housed in a three-story restored Art Deco building, is dedicated purely to the art of photography. Following a strong debut in 2014 featuring world renowned works by Elliot Erwitt, the museum aims to show pivotal works from international and regional greats and up-andcoming photographers. Check out its vintage Leica camera exhibit and library on the third floor. Appointments are essential, and includes a free guided tour. 11 Yuk Sau St., Happy Valley, 6516-1122. Fabrik Contemporary Art — The gallery that first brought Banksy to Hong Kong’s shores in 2008, Fabrik Contemporary Art has moved to a permanent space in Sheung Wan. Focusing primarily on Western contemporary art, it houses colorful, pop-inspired works by Banksy, Takashi Murakami, Romero Britto and their first local Hong Kong artist, Kako Peco. Unit 1102, Nam Wo Hong Building, 148 Wing Lok St., Sheung Wan, 2525-4911.

Flagstaff House Museum of Teaware — Located in Flagstaff House, the oldest surviving colonial building in the territory, and once the home of the commander-in-chief of British forces in Hong Kong, the museum houses a prized Asian teaware collection. It’s also home to Lock Cha Tea House, which serves myriad varieties of tea and delicate vegetarian dim sum in a cute Chinese-style setting. Hong Kong Park, 10 Cotton Tree Drive, Central, 2869-0690. Gagosian Gallery — With 14 galleries and counting, the famed Gagosian has chosen Hong Kong as its gateway to Asia. It opened its doors in January 2011 with a bang, featuring an allnew exhibition by Damien Hirst—Gagosian only exhibits the crème de la crème of the art world. 7/F, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2151-0555. Galerie Koo — Founded in 2012, Galerie Koo focuses on contemporary art that’s all about beauty and colors, and represents established and rising star artists from across Europe and Asia. 7/F, Vogue Building, 67 Wyndham St., Central, 2525-0331.

Galerie du Monde

Galerie du Monde — Specializing in modern and contemporary Chinese art, and a champion of up-and-coming talents, Galerie du Monde is known for innovative exhibits that cross mediums: from sculpture to photography, paper media to canvas. Room 108, 1/F, Ruttonjee Centre, 11 Duddell St., Central, 2525-0529 Grotto Fine Art — Curated by Henry Auyeung, a specialist in 20th-century Chinese art history, this gallery exclusively represents local Chinese artists, with a particular interest in the new and avant-garde art forms. You’ll find paintings, sculptures, prints and photography, mixed-media and conceptual installation pieces. 31C-D, 2/F, Wyndham St., Central, 2121-2270. Hanart TZ Gallery — A specialist in contemporary Chinese art, Hanart has exhibited works in oil, ink, print, sculpture, photography and video by internationally recognized mainland, Taiwanese and Hong Kong artists. It offers a wide selection and prices that accommodate almost everyone. Room 407, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2526-9019. Hong Kong 3D Museum — Whip out those selfie sticks and get your cameras ready: a visit to the HK3D museum is all about playing with its numerous trick of the eye effect exhibits, where you can explore Hong Kong’s culture. Here you can jump into a panda enclosure or cling precariously onto the Bank of China tower, among many other fun props and poses. 1/F, Hilton Tower, 96 Granville Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2721-9720.

Hong Kong Film Archive

Hong Kong Film Archive — A repository of all things related to Hong Kong films, the Archive contains lots of movies, conservation labs, a resource center, exhibition hall and a cinema. Closed Thursdays. 1/F, 50 Lei King Rd., Sai Wan Ho, 2739-2139. Hong Kong Heritage Museum — This modern museum is devoted to preserving the city’s historical, art and cultural heritage. Permanent exhibitions on the New Territories and Cantonese opera, plus a Children’s Discovery Gallery of natural and cultural history, including toy-making. Closed Tuesdays and public holidays. 1 Man Lam Rd., Sha Tin, 2180-8188.

Hong Kong Maritime Museum

Hong Kong Maritime Museum — This museum holds semi-permanent and special exhibitions tracing Hong Kong’s growth into a major world port, and the contributions made by China and the West to the development of ships, maritime exploration, trade and naval warfare. Central Ferry Pier 8, Man Kwong St., Central, 3713-2500. Hong Kong Museum of Art — One of the city’s largest museums houses fine examples of ancient Chinese art from the Han to the Qing dynasties. The exhibition galleries regularly showcase contemporary and international works. Closed Thursdays. 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2724-9042. Hong Kong Museum of Coastal Defence — Don’t let the name put you off, this is a great little museum. Set in a 19th-century British fort with spectacular views of the Lei Yue Mun channel, it features the original restored batteries and camouflaged cannons under a new tented canopy. The museum also houses artifacts and costumes from Hong Kong’s military past. A gentle trail leads to the sea, giving a sense of how the British patrolled for pirates and other enemies of the colony. Closed Thursdays. 175 Tung Hei Rd., Shau Kei Wan, 2569-1500. Hong Kong Museum of History — This fascinating museum explores 6,000 years of Hong Kong history, from the Neolithic to the post-war period, with recreations of prehistoric scenes and the early colonial era. But it’s the reconstruction of a post-war street, complete j a n u a r y 2 015 I WHERE H ONG KONG 17

Art+culture | The Guide with tram and traveling Chinese opera company, that really grabs the attention. Closed Tuesdays, except public holidays. 100 Chatham Rd. South, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2724-9042. Hong Kong Railway Museum — This small, picturesque museum is dedicated to the history of Hong Kong’s railway system. It’s situated in a former train station, a charming 1913 building with a traditional tiled roof now declared a historical monument. The permanent exhibition includes photographs, old coaches, samples of tracks and a full-sized model of an electric train compartment. Closed Tuesdays. Tai Po Market, 13 Shung Tak St., Tai Po, 2653-3455. Hong Kong Science Museum — Great for kids, thanks to about 500 permanent exhibits that explore all aspects of science and technology, including robotics, virtual reality and transportation. Best of all, about 70 percent of the displays are interactive, meaning the little ones can play with them. A popular feature is the 20-meter-high energy machine. Closed Thursdays. 2 Science Museum Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2732-3232. Hong Kong Space Museum — Explore the final frontier at the Space Museum and learn all about astronomy and space technology. One of the largest planetariums in the world features daily Omnimax screenings and Sky shows. Closed Tuesdays. 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2721-0226. Law Uk Folk Museum — Law Uk, which means “Law’s House,” named after its original owner, is an 18th-century, Qing-dynasty Hakka village house, complete with furnishings and artifacts. Free admission. Closed Thursdays. 14 Kut Shing St., Chai Wan, 2896-7006.

and Qing dynasties that still remain. Catch Liang Yi’s distinguished lectures held on every first Tuesday of the month. Closed Sundays, Mondays, and public holidays. Admission is $200. 181-199 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2806-8280. Lumenvisum — Established in 2007, the nonprofit arts organization Lumenvisum has been dedicated to promoting photographic arts in Hong Kong. It hosts regular themed exhibitions, lectures, photography classes and social events at the gallery space at the JCCAC Arts Village. Shop L2-10, 30 Pak Tin St., Shek Kip Mei, 3177-9159. Mur Nomade — Founded in 2012 by curator Amandine Hervey, Mur Nomade is a curatorial office and gallery based in Aberdeen. It holds regular exhibitions, mainly showing work from local contemporary artists, as well as many site-specific shows all across Hong Kong. Unit 1606, 16/F, Hing Wai Centre, 7 Tin Wan Praya Rd., Aberdeen. Museum of Medical Sciences — Located in an elegant brick building, this museum charts the development of medicine in the city. It was the first to focus on both western and traditional Chinese approaches to healthcare. Closed Mondays. 2 Caine Lane, Mid-Levels, 2549-5123. New Gallery on Old Bailey — Established in 1999, the gallery aims to promote contemporary Chinese fine art. It exhibits the work of well-established artists in a variety of styles—namely realism, surrealism, still-lifes, portraiture and modern abstraction. The gallery has an exhibition program and also gives advice to corporate clients about art commissioning and acquisition. 4/F, Kai Tak, 35 Tai Yau St., San Po Kong, 2234-9889. Opera Gallery Hong Kong — This gallery features works by world-famous international artists, including Picasso, Chagall, Salvador Dali, Renoir and Chinese painter Ting Shao-kuang, among others. G-3/F, W Place, 52 Wyndham St., Central, 2810-1208.

Lehmann Maupin

Lehmann Maupin — With the original branch in New York and with its reputation of supporting contemporary art and culture, the Lehmann Maupin Gallery opened its doors here to much fanfare. Architect Rem Koolhaas designed the gallery, making sure to keep the historic columns in the Pedder Building intact. Unit 407, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2530-0025. Lei Cheng Uk Han Tomb Museum — Housing a 2,000-year-old tomb with four chambers, the Lei Cheng Uk Han Tomb Museum is one of the city’s most fascinating monuments. Closed Thu 41 Tonkin St., Sham Shui Po, 2386-2863. Liang Yi Museum — Liang Yi is dedicated to promoting Chinese antique arts: you’ll find over 300 pieces of treasured furniture, ceramics and knickknacks here—they’re some of the best examples from the Ming 18 W H E R E HONG KONG I j a n u a r y 2 015

Pearl Lam Galleries — Pearl Lam galleries has been showing Chinese contemporary art here since 1993, and has gone on to become one of the most well established galleries in Hong Kong. Shop 601-605, 6/F, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central. Picture This Gallery — The city’s largest affordable-art gallery specializes in posters, antique maps, prints and early photographs of Hong Kong and China. It also carries antiquarian and secondhand books about Asia, first editions of modern literature, prints and photographs for children’s rooms and sporting prints. The staff here can also frame your fragile old artwork. Shop 1308, 13/F, 9 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2525-2820. Plum Blossoms Gallery — Recognized for its exhibitions of contemporary Asian art as well as an outstanding collection of museumquality ancient textiles, Plum Blossoms is an established platform for the promotion of both ancient and modern arts. 14/F, Cheung Tak Building, 30 Heung Yip Rd., Wong Chuk Hang, 2521-2189.

Police Museum — This interesting little museum has more than 600 artifacts relating to the Hong Kong Police, from the force’s inception in 1844 to today. It’s split into four sections including a gallery devoted to triad societies, the equivalent of gangs. Closed on public holidays. 27 Coombe Rd., The Peak, 2849-7019. Puerta Roja — Puerta Roja was established to promote Latin American art and artists to the Hong Kong audience. Drawings, etchings, glasswork and sculptures are all featured here. Shop A, G/F, Wai Yue Building, 15-17 New St., Sheung Wan, 2803-0332. Red Square Gallery — Red Square Gallery is a window into Contemporary Russian Art. Expanding into four branches, the gallery is dedicated to bringing creative and dynamic artwork to Hong Kong. Shop 2, G/F, Stanley Plaza, 1A Wong Nai Chung Rd., Happy Valley, 2838-0040. Sam Tung Uk Museum — Offering a fascinating insight into Hong Kong’s past, Sam Tung Uk (three rows of dwelling) is a restored 200-year-old walled village. The 2,000-square-meter museum includes an ancestral hall, two rows of side houses, an exhibition hall and a lecture hall. It contains displays of period furniture, handicrafts and agricultural equipment. Closed Tues. 2 Kwu Uk Lane, Tsuen Wan, 2411-2001. Sin Sin Fine Art — The gallery represents and promotes mainland and Southeast Asian artists and photographers, with a focus on Chinese, Indonesian and Thai works of art. G/F, 53-54 Sai St., Sheung Wan, 2858-5072. The Cat Street Gallery — Showcasing contemporary and modern art in a variety of mediums, Cat Street exhibits emerging and established artists from around the world. 222 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2291-0006. The Popsy Room — Jennifer Chung, the founder of this unique art space, firmly believes that art should be experienced through all our senses. Hence all exhibitions, featuring local and international artists, cater to vision, sound, smell, and particularly taste: coinciding with their exhibitions every two months is an art-food pairing menu, which patrons can book for a private dining experience. G/F, 30 Upper Lascar Row, Sheung Wan, 2234-6711. Wattis Fine Art — This cool old gallery specializes in antique maps of Asia, and historical photographs and prints of China, Hong Kong, and Southeast Asia. 2/F, 20 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2524-5302. White Cube — One of the world’s top contemporary galleries opened its first non-UK outpost in Hong Kong in March of 2012. The gallery represents many members of the Young British Artists (YBA) movement, who are known for their shock factor, confrontational nature and use of disposable materials—for instance, Damien Hirst’s famous dead shark suspended in formaldehyde. 50 Connaught Rd., Central, 2592-2000.

Own a piece of HK Magazine history with one of these stunning framed limited edition vintage covers

HK$888 EACH

order yours at www.hk-magazine.com/store

dining | The Guide

Top Tables Check out our favorite new restaurants while you’re in town. By Adele Wong

Bibo Bibo is one huge paradox: fancy French food in a hip, graffiti-covered environment. But whether you hate or embrace the multimillion-dollar street art on the walls, there’s no faulting the food, which is as indulgent as it comes. Truffles, caviar and foie gras are used anything but sparingly on the dishes, and the results are decidedly fabulous.

Sohofama Sohofama is proof that great-tasting Chinese food doesn’t have to be loaded with MSG or consist of exotic creatures. Tuck into organic pork xiaolongbao pork dumplings) and other dishes topped with herbs and veggies grown straight from Sohofama’s own garden on the outdoor patio.

G/F, 163 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2956-3188.

Shop G09-G14, G/F, Block A, PMQ, 35 Aberdeen St., Central, 2858-8238.

Sohofama

Neighborhood

Mrs. Pound

Chef-slash-restaurateur David Lai is onto a new project: this time, it’s a hidden Hollywood Road gem that serves homey pan-European dishes, sharing-style. There’s nothing too fancy here, but every dish on the rotating menu is meticulously prepared. Bring a friend, or three, to share snacks like deep-fried frogs’ legs as well as simple pastas and daily roasts.

This ultra-hip joint with a Chinese stamp shop facade serves some heavenly Southeast Asian fusion specialties within its retro-cool interiors. Try something in every section of the menu if you can—don’t forget to order the grilled prawns, srirachamayo corn, and beef rendang poutine. G/F, 6 Pound Lane, Sheung Wan, 3426-3949.

G/F, 63-65 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2617-0891.

Bibo

La Saison by Jacques Barnachon This cross-harbor gem is the Hong Kong outlet for celebrated French chef Jacques Barnachon of the Michelin-starred L’Etang du Moulin in Bonnetage, France. Protégé Florian Muller is at the helm of La Saison, whipping up classic French dishes that are as decadent and delectable as they come. The menu is seasonal (in case the name didn’t give it away), but you can expect freshly flown-in seafood and meat prepared in a delicately Gallic manner. 2/F, The Cameron, 33 Cameron Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2789-8000.

La Saison

20 W H E R E HONG KONG I j a n u a r y 2 015

dining

New and Noted Fresh faces on the dining scene. By Adele Wong

Penthouse

Limewood

Seasons

Seasons by Olivier E. Chef Olivier Elzer can boast having both Pierre Gagnaire and Joel Robuchon as mentors and former employers. With a resume as strong as his, it was only a matter of time before Elzer branched out on his own. Yes, it’s all about seasonality at Seasons, so depending on the time of year you might be having chestnut-topped scallops (winter) or hearty pumpkin gnocchi (fall). Shop 308, 3/F, Phase 2, Lee Gardens, 2-38 Yun Ping Rd., Causeway Bay, 2505-6228.

Saam

All For One and One For All Saam, Afrikaans for “together,” is Graham Street’s latest offering. It’s hard to define this space, not least because the chef-owner behind it, Patrick Dang, is essentially accumulating all his previous exploits in Sydney, Shanghai, Miami, Mexico and the Caribbean as well as Hong Kong into one giant melting pot. So you can simultaneously tuck into a saltbush lamb loin, cuttlefish noodle AND poached Maine lobster in one convenient space. 51 Graham St., Central, 2645-9828.

Finger on the Repulse Penthouse Hats off to Harlan Goldstein for yet another win, this time in Causeway Bay’s newest venue, Midtown. Brand-name chefs often fall into the trap of stretching themselves too wide and thin for the sake of propagation, but it seems Harlan’s still got a solid grip on all his establishments. The steaks are succulent and the pastas bold at Penthouse, a swanky 30th-floor venue with killer views. 30/F, Midtown, 1 Tung Lung St., Causeway Bay, 2970-0828.

Repulse Bay may just be paving the way to a new renaissance for Hong Kong’s beaches. California-style barbecue joint Limewood is running full steam at The Pulse, the southside’s recently revamped entertainment complex. Limewood is Maximal’s most kid-friendly destination yet: In fact, the group implores you to bring the whole family to this beachside digs to enjoy some Hawaiian roast pork and fish tacos while sipping on piña coladas and other tropical cocktails. The Pulse, Shop 103-104, G/F, 28 Beach Rd., Repulse Bay, 2866-8668.

j a n u a r y 2 015 I WHERE H ONG KONG 21

dining | The Guide Central 81/2 Otto E Mezzo Bombana — Italian $$$$$ Chef Umberto Bombana’s unique brand of contemporary Italian cuisine is offered in the regularly changing decadent lunch and dinner sets (though an a la carte menu is also available) Shop 202, Alexandra House, 18 Chater Rd., Central, 2537-8859.

Aberdeen Street Social

Aberdeen Street Social — British $$$$ Michelin-starred chef Jason Atherton and entrepreneur Yenn Wong collaborate for the third time to launch Aberdeen Street Social, bringing their take on modern British cuisine to the hipsters of Hong Kong. G/F, JPC Building, PMQ, 35 Aberdeen St., Central, 2866-0300. Amber — French $$$$ Chef Richard Ekkebus and his team create classic French dishes that are given an innovative twist. This restaurant is consistently included in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. 7/F, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2132-0066. BÊP Vietnamese Kitchen — Vietnamese $$ BÊP is a comfortable, no-fuss SoHo restaurant from the team behind popular Vietnamese restaurant Nha Trang—offering up an open kitchen, good service and excellent food. LG/F, 9-11 Staunton St., Central, 2522-7533. Bistecca — Italian $$$$ This rustic LKF haunt is an Italian-style steakhouse with a touch of charm, and a whole lot of beef. 2/F, Grand Progress Building, 15-16 Lan Kwai Fong, Central, 2525-1308.

Fatty Crab — American $$$ Situated halfway up Old Bailey Street, this bar/ resto offers Pan-Asian cuisine and specialty cocktails—including the mighty Pickleback shot. G/F, 11-13 Old Bailey St., Central, 2521-2033.

Man Wah Restaurant — Cantonese $$$ Straight-up Cantonese fare with an amazing harbor view in an atmosphere of old-world elegance. 25/F, Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong, 5 Connaught Rd., Central, 2825-4003.

Fish & Meat — Western $$$ Fish & Meat is all about family-style plates, heavily focused on seafood. Baby spanish octopus, roasted Alaskan cod, and pan-fried sea bream are some of the dishes on offer. 1-2/F, 32 Wyndham St., Central, 2565-6788.

Maxim’s Palace City Hall — Dimsum $ If there is one restaurant that epitomizes dim sum culture in Hong Kong, this is it. Floor-toceiling windows overlook Victoria Harbour and the Star Ferry chugging along to Kowloon and back. Low Block, City Hall, Edinburgh Place, Central, 2526-9931.

Gold by Harlan Goldstein — Modern European $$$ Gold serves a wide range of international food, inspired by the diversity of chef Harlan Goldstein’s Lower East Side roots. 2/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 2869-9986. Ho Lee Fook — Chinese $$ HLF is a cheeky, modern take on Chinese cuisine, courtesy of Aussie chef Jowett Yu (of Ms. G’s and Mr. Wong in Sydney). The venue consists of a ground floor open kitchen decked out in mahjong tiles, and a dark and funky basement dining room. LG-G/F, 1-5 Elgin St., Central, 2810-0860. L’Atelier De Joel Robuchon — French $$$$ Each dish at this three-Michelin-starred venue is prepared with exquisite finesse and precision—an ordeal on plain view at the open kitchen. The menu changes seasonally but always remains a cut above that of your average upscale French restaurant. Shop 315 & 401, 4/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2166-9000. La Vache — French $$ La Vache by Black Sheep Restaurants. Inspired by the Le Relais de l’Entrecôte chain from Paris, LV is a brasseriestyle space that specializes in the classic European dish. 48 Peel St., Central, 2880-0248.

Ciak — Italian $$$ Backed by chef Umberto Bombana, Sir David Tang and media mogul Peter Lam, Ciak offers casual Italian fare including bread, pizza and pasta, either for takeaway or for a quick eat-in. 3/F, Landmark Atrium, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2522-8869. Cocotte — French $$$ Cocotte is a cute NoHo (north of Hollywood Road) eatery sitting right off the steps of Shin Hing Street. This upscale French restaurant has a casual neighborhood feel and a contemporary menu. 9 Shin Hing St., Central, 2568-8857. 22 W H E R E HONG KONG I j a n u a r y 2 015

Mott 32 — Cantonese $$$$ Mott 32 is restaurant group Maximal Concepts’ first foray into Chinese cuisine, and like its other restaurants, it’s dark, dramatic and exclusive. B/F, Standard Chartered Building, 4-4A Des Voeux Rd. Central, 2885-8688. Peking Garden — Chinese $$$ This famous-with-tourists restaurant tucked into the basement of Alexandra House is known for its signature Peking duck and other Chinese delicacies. The restaurant also specializes in Beggar’s chicken, which has to be ordered at least 2 days in advance. Shop B1, Alexandra House, 16-20 Chater Rd., Central, 2526-6456. Sanche — Korean $$ Sanche is dishing out modern Korean on Wellington Street. Salads and traditional Korean specialties like tokbokki (spicy rice cakes) will be given slight re-interpretations. Shop C, 28-32 Gage St., Central, 2628-3248.

Brickhouse — Mexican $$$ Tucked away in Lan Kwai Fong, Brickhouse is one of Hong Kong’s best Mexican diners. Enjoy fresh tacos and ceviches as well as some uniquely delicious cocktails at this truly hip establishment. G/F, 20 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2810-0560. Chôm Chôm — Vietnamese $$ It seems a bold move, to not serve pho at a place that calls itself Vietnamese-but it works. Diners are squeezed into a posh but tiny space that’s mostly eaten up by a large L-shaped bar. Beer and Vietnamese street foods are the two key elements at this space. G/F, Block A, 58-60 Peel St., Central, 2810-0850.

Mott 32

Lung King Heen

Lung King Heen — Cantonese $$$ The xiaolongbao (pork dumplings) at this three-Michelin-starred restaurant come with little handles so they reach your mouth without breaking. The steamed shrimp and scallop dumplings with a topping of XO sauce are pure magic. 4/F, Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong, 8 Finance St., Central, 3196-8888. Mama San — Southeast Asian $$$ Aussie chef Will Meyrick’s popular and uber-trendy Mama San comes from Bali to Central. Not as roomy and high-ceilinged as the mothership, Mama San HK still remains faithful to the original decor, complete with MS Bali’s signature wall mural. 1/F, 46 Wyndham St., Central, 2881-8901.

Sichuan House — Sichuan $ The menu’s chili ratings can be misleading: even dishes with no chili contain a bit of zing. Then again, if you didn’t like spice, why choose Sichuanese in the first place? 7/F, M88, 2 Wellington St., Central, 2521-6699. Souvla — Greek $$ This modern Greek restaurant in Lan Kwai Fong serves sizzling grilled meats, Mediterranean salads, filo pastries and a whole lot more in a colorful upstairs space. 1/F, Ho Lee Commercial Building, 40 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2522-1823. Tim Ho Wan — Dimsum $ If you’re looking for some Michelin-starred dim sum, just head over to IFC Mall and look for the place with the giant line of people waiting outside. Must-try items include the baked barbecue pork buns and steamed shrimp rice rolls, both of which will leave your stomach and your wallet happy. Shop 12A, 1/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2332-3078.

HONG KONG Shop G&H, Ground Floor, Burlington House, 90-94C Nathan Road, T.S.T., KLN., HK (Tsim Sha Tsui Station Exit B1) 九龍尖沙咀彌敦道90-94C號華敦大廈地下Ｇ&H舖（尖沙咀港鐵站 B1 出口） Tel: (852) 2366 5635 / 2366 6612 / 2368 8625 BUSINESS HOURS 09:00AM – 09:00PM (MON-SAT) 10:00AM – 07:00PM (SUN)

www.punjabhouse.com.hk

SPECIAL OFFER FOR MEN AND WOMEN ONE SUIT WITH TWO PANTS

HK$ 3880

GET TWO SHIRTS FREE

BUY 2 BESPOKE SUITS WITH FABRIC BY

OR AND GET TWO EXTRA PANTS

FREE

Open 7 days a week, get your personal fitting within hours in Hong Kong and you may pick up in our London Branch. LONDON 13-13A Pall Mall, London SW1Y 5LU Tel: +44 020 7925 2238 www.apsleytailors.com

dining | The Guide Causeway Bay

Under Bridge Spicy Crab — Chinese $$$ The Under Bridge Spicy Crab restaurants are all within walking distance of each other, varying from a hole-in-the-wall to a Zenmodern interior. But they all serve typhoonshelter crabs: large, sweet crustaceans topped with mounds of fried garlic and chili. Shop 1-2, G/F, 414-424 Jaffe Rd., Causeway Bay, 2573-7698.

Beef & Liberty — American $$ Dig into gourmet burgers and sweet potato fries at this posh diner. Remember to save room for the cookie skillet dessert at the end of your meal. 2/F, 23 Wing Fung St., Wan Chai, 2811-3009.

Tsim Sha Tsui An Nam

An Nam — Vietnamese $$ An Nam serves Vietnamese-style dishes in an exquisitely designed setting. Diners can savor fresh seafood and roast meats as well as traditional delicacies from the region of Hue. 4/F, Lee Gardens One, 33 Hysan Ave., Causeway Bay, 2787-3922. Din Tai Fung — Chinese $ The xiaolongbao at Taiwanese chain restaurant Din Tai Fung are some of the most delectable soup-filled pork dumplings in the city, with delicately fine skin and succulent, juicy meat. Shop 3-9, G/F, 68 Yee Wo St., Causeway Bay, 3160-8998.

Above & Beyond — Chinese $$$ Go to this narrow but inviting restaurant for a variety of innovative dim sum dishes and expertly tweaked Chinese mains. One standout: the thick, bubbly congee, which contains swirls of creamy egg yolk in each spoonful. 28/F, Hotel Icon, 17 Science Museum Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3400-1318. Hutong — Chinese $$$$ With its dark, unlacquered wood furnishings and fabulous harbor view, you simultaneously feel like you are in a northern Chinese dining hall and a modern, elegant restaurant. Food is beautifully presented northern Chinese haute cuisine. 28/F, 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3428-8342.

Gonpachi — Japanese $$$ The glorious Tokyo establishment that inspired one of the signature killing scenes in ‘Kill Bill’ has spawned a branch in Causeway Bay’s Lee Gardens. Keep in mind that Gonpachi is not a specialist restaurant. It serves everything: sushi, grilled goods, tempura, rice boxes and noodles. 4/F, The Lee Gardens, 33 Hysan Ave., Causeway Bay, 2787-3688. Jade Garden — Chinese $$$ Jade Garden is a local institution, serving up specialty dishes from around China, such as Peking duck, beggar’s chicken and bird’s nest soup with morsels of crabmeat. It’s big, bright and deservedly popular. 3/F, Causeway Bay Plaza 2, 463-483 Lockhart Rd., Causeway Bay, 2573-9339. Jamie’s Italian — Italian $$ Jamie’s Italian serves up to 200 Italian-craving guests at a time in a spacious venue at Midtown, Causeway Bay’s hottest new dining destination. 2/F, Soundwill Plaza II—Midtown, 1 Tang Lung St., Causeway Bay, 3958-2222. Paradise Dynasty — Chinese $$ Paradise Dynasty is a spacious and popular xiaolongbao restaurant whose claim to fame is its multicolored multi-flavored dumplings. Expect to queue. 6/F, Lee Theatre, 99 Percival St., Causeway Bay, 2177-0903. Seasons by Olivier E. — French $$$ Chef Olivier Elzer, formerly of L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon, now has his own brand in a sprawling space at Lee Gardens Two. It’s part of a new breed of restaurants trying to tone down the uppity factor of fine-dining with a laissezfaire, casual approach. 3/F, Lee Gardens Two, 2-38 Yun Ping Rd., Causeway Bay, 2505-6228. Shun Kee Typhoon Shelter — Chinese $$$ Shun Kee is a collection of sampans close to the Causeway Bay Typhoon Shelter, serving mostly classic typhoon shelter-style seafood (read: steamed or fried). Causeway Bay Typhoon Shelter, Causeway Bay, 8112-0075. 24 W H E R E HONG KONG I j a n u a r y 2 015

Bo Innovation

Bo Innovation — Asian $$$ “Demon chef” Alvin Leung is known for his innovative takes on Asian cuisine. Steamed soup dumplings get transformed into different shapes, textures and sizes, and many other things don’t look like they’re supposed to at this three Michelinstarred restaurant. 2/F, J Residence, 60 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2850-8371. Seventh Son — Cantonese $$$ Seventh Son offers classic Cantonese cuisine in a fresh contemporary setting spanning over two levels. A great choice for carnivores, with a huge selection of seafood as well as signatures like roast suckling pig and crispy chicken. 5-6/F, Kwan Chart Tower, 6 Tonnochy Rd., Wan Chai, 2892-2888.

Morton’s Of Chicago

Morton’s Of Chicago — American $$$$$ This renovated steakhouse with contemporary interiors offers new signatures like a fivepeppercorn rubbed strip steak and a USDA bone-in rib-eye. Seafood lovers also get to enjoy dishes like a Chilean sea bass fillet. 4/F, Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel & Towers, 20 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2732-2343. Spring Deer — Chinese $ At this loud, busy establishment that’s starting to show its age, you feel the quasi-nostalgic vibe as soon as you walk in, and it really makes the experience. Get the Peking duck. 1/F, 42 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-4012. Wooloomooloo Prime — Steak $$$$ This elegant Wooloomooloo outpost is a must for serious steak lovers. Choose from 200-day grain-fed Australian steaks as well as other selected cuts from the US, ranging from 10-ounce to hearty 20-ounce cuts. 21/F, The One, 100 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2870-0087.

Wan Chai 22 Ships — Spanish $$$ British chef Jason Atherton’s 22 Ships, named for its address, is a sparsely decorated tapas bar with unfinished floors that serves small plates with a modern twist. Since it takes no reservations, the intimate venue is always packed. 22 Ship St., Wan Chai, 2555-0722.

The Pawn

The Pawn — British $$$ The newly revamped Pawn has British chef Tom Aikens at the helm and a light and bright interior. Dig into modern British fare that’s meant for sharing 62 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2866-3444.

Price Guide $ Less than $200 $$ $200-$399 $$$ $400-$599

$$$$ $600-$799 $$$$$ $800 and up

Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course and dessert. Prices do not include bottles of wine unless stated.

Tel: 2730 1251

Drinks | The Guide

Raising the Bar The best new bars in Hong Kong. By Where staff

Fu Lu Shou

Ping Pong 129

Ping Pong 129 When Ping Pong 129 opened in May, it was the talk of the town. Offering up to 40 gins from around the world, the Spanish gintoneria is housed in an unusual double-height space, while artlined walls add to the atmospheric vibes. Each G&T comes in various garnish and tonic combos, including fresh, seasonal options that are sure to please even the most traditional tippler. LG/F, Nam Cheong House, 129 Second St., Sai Ying Pun, 9158-1584.

Craft Brew & Co Craft Brew & Co is the latest addition to the ever-growing beer scene. With not a single massproduced bottle in place, Craft Brew is stocked with 15 beers on tap—including the likes of 10 Barrel Apocalypse IPA—as well as beers from local brewery Young Master Ales. 17 Old Bailey St., Central, 2885-0821.

is nothing new, but now’s your chance to give it a go. Prefer to eat in the light? Seafood dishes are served in the lounge, as well as the likes of chargrilled wagyu beef and crispy pork belly. G-LG/F, 16 Arbuthnot Rd., Central, 6821-2801.

Alchemy — Alchemy is the perfect antidote to the crowds of Wyndham. In addition to the lounge bar, it also boasts a dining-in-thedark experience in the basement. The concept

7/F, 31 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2336-8812.

Little Lab Move over, molecular mixology: this year was all about Hong Kong-inspired cocktails. Little Lab’s unique take on the classics is pretty neat—try the HK Tea Time, made with Dewar’s 12-year whisky, mixed with homemade dai pai dong milk tea syrup, evaporated milk, topped with Rogue beer and a dash of chocolate bitters. It’s like a spiked version of a Hong Kong milk tea. Breakfast is served! Shop B, 50 Staunton St., Central, 2858-8580.

biggest clubs: Play, Levels and Dizzi. Whereas Masu seemed to hide in the shadows with its exclusivity, Amazake is bright and pumping with energy, a place for large groups to pre-game before hitting the clubs next door. G/F, On Hing Building, 1 On Hing Terrace, Central, 2537-7787. Aqua Spirit — This bar redefines the notion of having a sophisticated drink with friends. Quoted as one of the best bars in Hong Kong, Aqua has stunning harbor and city views. 29/F-30/F, Penthouse, 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3427-2288.

121BC

121BC — 121BC is a wine lover’s heaven. Pick from top-of-the-range wines sourced from Italy, paired with a rustic Italian menu. 42-44 Peel St., Central, 2395-0200.

Hidden in an old building on Hollywood Road, Fu Lu Shou is home to an alfresco space with lots of homey, Hong Kongstyle touches. Equipped with inviting lounge furniture and cushioned swing seats, it’s an ideal spot to kick back with one of the bar’s signature Hong Kong-inspired cocktails.

Amazake

Amazake — Amazake sits in the same spot where fancy robatayaki joint Masu used to be, sandwiched between three of Hong Kong’s

Boujis — Taking cue from its highly successful and celeb-endorsed model in London, Boujis establishes an Asian branch in Hong Kong. The moody space comes alive at night with house, electro and similarly buzzing sounds. 37 Pottinger St., Central, 2324-0200.

For weekly event listings, pick up a free copy of HK Magazine (available at bars, restaurants and coffee shops).

26 W H E R E HONG KONG I j a n u a r y 2 015

Drinks Butler — Masayuki Uchida, the half-Cantonese, half-Japanese owner of this posh, all-wooden Japanese bar, allegedly knows 2,000 cocktail recipes by heart. This nightspot is exclusive, fitting only 18 people and allowing groups with a maximum of five people. 5/F, Mody House, 30 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2724-3828.

Havana — This Cuban-themed bar on D’Aguilar Street serves up Caribbean classics like daiquiris, mojitos and drinks with all different sorts of rum. Awesome terrace available for some serious outdoor chilling. 4/F, The Plaza, 21 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2851-4880.

Common Room — Common Room is a spacious gastropub that serves international tapas dishes and mixologist-crafted cocktails right off LKF’s main drag. 1/F, Wo On Building, 8-13 Wo On Lane, Central, 2525-3599.

made from fresh fruits and herbs 3/F, L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, Central, 2915-1638. Supergiant — Burrow deep inside boutique hotel Mira Moon, and you’ll emerge like a white rabbit from the dirty den of Wan Chai’s back streets into cocktail and tapas bar Supergiant. It’s a collection of three intricately designed spaces—a lounge with dark, hidden corners, a chic open-air terrace dubbed the “Secret Garden” and a Gothic dining room. There is a cleverly crafted Spanish-Chinese fusion cocktail and tapas menu. 3/F, Mira Moon Hotel, 388 Jaffe Rd., Wan Chai, 2643-8888.

Isono Eatery and Bar

Duddell’s

Duddell’s — Duddell’s is an elegant dim sum eatery by day, hopping bar at night, and art hub round the clock; you’ll find some of the most thought-provoking contemporary art in town at this intimate social space. They regularly host curator and artist talks—with classy tipple to boot. 3-4/F, Shanghai Tang Mansion, Duddell St., Central, 2525-9191. Fu Lu Shou — Hongkongers love a good rooftop bar, so it’s no surprise that the superhip Fu Lu Shou is all the rage. Meaning ‘happiness, prosperity and longevity,’ Fu Lu Shou offers up cool surrounds and interesting concoctions. Not only do the innovative cocktails have a strong local flavor, but you’ll also find western-style Chinatown favorites on the menu. 7/F, 31 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2336-8812. Grappa’s Cellar — This busy after-work spot features some of the city’s top jazz musicians B/F, Jardine House, 1 Connaught Place, Central, 2521-2322.

Ham & Sherry

Ham & Sherry — Patterned floor-to-ceiling Azulejo tiles in sharp blue and white are the first things that catch your eye at this modestly sized venue. In case it’s not obvious, sherry is the drink of choice here. G/F, 2555-0628, 1-7 Ship St., Wan Chai, 2555-0628.

Isono Eatery and Bar — Isono is good for a big group or an intimate evening for two, with an extensive menu worth exploring. Whether it’s the cocktail pairings or the artisanal cheese platters, there’s always something to keep your interest piqued. Shop H601-H608, 6/F, Block B, PMQ, 35 Aberdeen St., Central, 2156-0688. Le Boudoir — It’s all sultry drapes and chandeliers here-and tactile velvet upholstery just makes you want to throw yourself on the furniture. Walls are hung with heavy gilded frames for a decadent, rococo touch. Absinthe features heavily on the drinks list, with innovative cocktails made of the trippy green stuff. It’s the perfect escape from the Wyndham crowds. B/F, 65 Wyndham St., Central, 2530-3870. Peak Bar — The name’s a little confusing, but this is a cozy, laid-back spot with fab peoplewatching right on the Mid-Levels Escalator. 9-13 Shelley St., Central, 2140-6877. Quinary — This chic hangout off of Hollywood Road serves some awesome cocktails by molecular mixologist Antonio Lai. The Earl Grey caviar martini and the oolong tea Collins are both highly recommended. 56-58 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2851-3223. Rummin’ Tings — Holding court just under the escalator, Rummin’ Tings is a Caribbeanthemed bar bringing a touch of the tropical to the SAR. As the name (“rum and things”) suggests, rum takes center stage. Close your eyes while you’re savoring a cocktail, and you could almost be on an exotic island—except you’re right in the middle of an unbeatable people-watching spot. 28 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2523-7070. Sevva — A spacious alfresco terrace surrounds this super-stylish restaurant and lounge and offers unique, panoramic views over Hong Kong. A perfect place to watch the Symphony of Lights. 25/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2537-1388. Shore — A swanky submarine-themed bar with one of the most extensive drinks selection in town. Cocktail lovers can go for a “Surprise Me”—choose an ingredient and have the bartender create a unique 10-minute martini,

Tapagria

Tapagria — If you’re looking for a view, tapas and sangria look no further than Tapagria, situated on the high floors of The One shopping mall. Enjoy one of the 65 sangria concoctions alongside dishes like paella and croquettes. 18/F, The One, 100 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2147-0111. The Envoy — The Envoy is a stylish venue in an unbeatable Central location, with a touch of colonial influence. Tea makes a frequent appearance in the cocktails: a tip of the hat to the city’s first governor Sir Henry Pottinger, who had a hand in establishing Hong Kong as a major shipping port for the infusion. 3/F, The Pottinger Hong Kong, 74 Queen’s Rd. Central, Central, 2169-3311. The Tonno — This multi-faceted complex features a bar, clubbing zone, restaurant, live music lounge, VIP party enclaves and karaoke rooms—in short, it takes “all-around entertainment” to a whole new level. 5 Tonnochy Rd., Wan Chai, 3125-3888.

The Woods

The Woods — This basement bar is decked out in nature-inspired decor—hence the name— and shakes up creative and painstakingly crafted cocktails. L/G, 17 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2522-0281. j a n u a r y 2 015 I WHERE H ONG KONG 27

ShopS+Services | The Guide

There's No Moment Like the Presents Stock up on the best gifts for under $500. By Katie Kenny 1. Key ring charging cord $320, Native Union @ Lane Crawford Shop 126, 1/F, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2118-2288

4. Beanie $490, Tommy Hilfiger Shop 2309, 2/F, Gateway Arcade, Harbour City, 21 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2956-3883.

2. Card holder $280, The Dot Mezzanine, 2 Elgin St., Central, 2527-9008.

5. Scarf $350, Armor Lux @ The Refinery Shop S410, 4/F, PMQ, 35 Aberdeen St., Central, 9545-9393.

3. Mini waterproof Bluetooth speaker with clip $198, iFrogz @ Bread and Butter Showcase HG01-HG05, G/F, Hollywood Building, PMQ, 35 Aberdeen St., Central, 2156-0900.

6. Postcard box set $350; each $15, Urban Cliches @ WOAW 11 Gough St., Central, 2253-1313.

3 2 4 1

Shopping Centers

LANGHAM PLACE — Occupying about 600,000 square feet, Langham Place houses fashion and lifestyle stores and more than 20 restaurants. It’s within walking distance of the Ladies’ Market and Fa Yuen Street. 8 Argyle St., Mong Kok, 3520-2800, www.langhamplace.com.hk.

APM — In the center of Kwun Tong, APM opens late (11am) but closes even later (2am). It boasts 150 shops, a cinema, more than 20 international restaurants and a convenient link to the MTR station. 418 Kwun Tong Rd., Kwun Tong, 3148-1200.

IFC Mall

Elements

ELEMENTS — Two floors and a million square feet of retail heaven beneath Hong Kong’s tallest building, the ICC, this luxury mall offers international cuisine and world-class shopping. Other features include a cinema, ice rink and enormous rooftop garden. 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2735-5234. HARBOUR CITY — This enormous stretch of shops runs along Canton Road for what seems like miles. Its four levels of shops, services and restaurants sprawl across over 2 million square feet. 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2118-8666. HYSAN PLACE — This mall is a great one-stop shopping destination, with over 120 stores (including hard-to-find Japanese brands) and tons of high-quality dining options. 500 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2886-7222.

IFC MALL — This popular shopping center is home to more than 200 international highend brands with Lane Crawford acting as an anchor. It also has a luxurious cinema, and some of the finest dining in the city. Easily accessible via MTR, Airport Express and Star Ferry. 8 Finance St., Central, 2295-3308.

LEE GARDENS — Divided into Lee Gardens and Lee Gardens Two, this luxury mall is stuffed with high-end retailers such as Gucci, Hermes, Louis Vuitton and more. Lee Gardens Two has children’s fashion shops, and there are plenty of restaurants to choose from. 33 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, 2907-5227, www.hysan.com.hk.

HORIZON PLAZA — It may not look promising but this is something of a mecca for bargain fashion, furniture and Chinese antiques. The industrial high-rise features Lane Crawford and Joyce outlets. Also look for homeware emporium Tequila Kola and antiques warehouse Shambala. 2 Lee Wing St., Ap Lei Chau, 2554-9089. ISLAND BEVERLEY — Browse through closetsized boutiques offering the best of hip local designers. 1 Great George St., Causeway Bay, 2890-6823. THE LANDMARK — The Landmark is a fashion mecca centered around a five-story atrium. Don’t miss iconic London department store Harvey Nichols. 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3428-8086.

Harvey Nichols at Pacific Place

PACIFIC PLACE — One of the most popular malls in Hong Kong, Pacific Place has four floors of upscale shops and restaurants anchored by a massive Harvey Nichols. There’s also a nice range of eateries and a multi-screen cinema. 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2844-8988.

Almost all goods, apart from certain types of alcohol and tobacco, are tax-free.

28 W H E R E HONG KONG I j a n u a r y 2 015

ShopS+Services | The Guide PRINCE’S BUILDING — Prince’s Building is linked by covered walkways to The Landmark, Chater House, Alexandra House and The Galleria. A cozy mixture of the uber-fashionable, the artistic and the maternal, it also houses the excellent Oliver’s supermarket. 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2500-0555.

LANE CRAWFORD — This Hong Kong institution is almost as old as the city itself, and just as fashionable. It’s stacked with musthave designer brands as well as handbags, shoes, silver, linen, crystal and everything in between. 3/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2118-3388.

One Peking — Satisfy your thirst for designer wear with Dior, Fendi, Miu Miu and Cartier. 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui.

SOGO — Japan’s most famous department store sits at one of the city’s busiest intersections. 555 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2833-8338.

Rise Commercial Building — A playground for hip, trendy and young fashionistas. 5-11 Granville Circuit, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2384-8728.

Squarestreet

Squarestreet — Seriously hipster shoes and accessories. G/F, 15 Square St., Sheung Wan, 2362-1086.

TIMES SQUARE — One of Hong Kong’s largest malls, this 13-story complex contains more than 230 shops—including Lane Crawford, upscale Japanese supermarket Citysuper, Page One books and a cinema. 1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay, 2118-8900. The Swank

Shops, Boutiques and Local Designers

Tang Tang Tang Tang

Blanc de Chine — Modern Chinese luxury clothing and accessories for women and men. Shop 123, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2104-7934.

Tang tang tang tang — Sir David Tang's casual lifestyle store stocks everything from rice cookers to pyjamas. G/F, 66 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2525-2112.

Daydream Nation — A locally grown label that incorporates fashion with other art forms like theater, dance, music, film and visual arts. It offers its own collection of clothing and accessories, as well as works from local artists and indie bands. Daydream Nation Circus Shop, 2/F, Hong Kong Arts Centre, 2 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, 2817-6313.

Vivienne Tam — Elegant, feminine contemporary dresses with a Chinese twist. Shop 417, Times Square, 1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay, 2506-2088.

G.O.D. — Some “Goods of Desire” for those searching for the perfect couch or unique home accessories. G-1/F, 48 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2805-1876. Kapok — Offers meticulously selected international and local brands for menswear, womenswear, bags and accessories, as well as lifestyle products. G/F, 5, St. Francis Yard, Wan Chai, 2549-9254.

Western Market — An Edwardian-styled building with restaurants and shops selling Chinese crafts and fabrics. 323 Des Voeux Rd. Central, Sheung Wan, 6029-2675. Wudai Shiguo — This shop in the trendy Star Street neighborhood is a collaboration between a group of local designers and stocks American-style fashion and accessories. 9B1 St. Francis St., Wan Chai, 2528-3800.

Department Stores Harvey Nichols — The Hong Kong branch of London’s famous department store is a haven of international brands, with a good restaurant—the Fourth Floor—and a fabulous beauty department. The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3695-3388.

THE SWANK — Representing established designers as well as up-and-coming talents, The Swank has been one of the finest local fashion houses since 1955. It has 17 freestanding boutiques and points-of-sale in major department stores. Shop 103B, 1/F, Ocean Centre, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2175-4228.

Chinese Emporiums CHINESE ARTS AND CRAFTS — Stuffed with the best of Chinese crafts, from tablecloths to objets d’art to some incredible jade, this is one of the best places to stock up on gifts, porcelain, jewelry, cloth and fine antiques. Shop 220, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2735-4061. YUE HWA CHINESE EMPORIUM — Yue Hwa is a great place to pick up souvenirs and gifts, from acupuncture needles to Chinese Zodiac figurines. There is a good selection of cheongsams, tops and trousers tailored from quality silk. 301-309 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3511-2222.

Tailors DAVID FASHIONs — G/F, Shop 15, Empress Plaza, 17-19 Chatham Rd. South, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2368-6884. L & K bespoke Tailor — G/F, Mirador Mansion, 54-64 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2369-7278. La Elite Fashions — G/F, 1E Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2368-0040.

Shanghai Tang SHANGHAI TANG — Shanghai Tang specializes in a funky fusion of traditional and contemporary Chinese design. You’ll find kitsch accessories, great housewares, fun T-shirts, fashion for men and women, and incredibly beautiful bespoke cheongsams. The flagship is worth a visit. 1 Duddell St., Central, 2525-7333. 30 W H E R E HONG KONG I j a n u a r y 2 015

Joyce

JOYCE — Named after founder and Hong Kong’s first lady of fashion, Joyce Ma, this is the place for red-hot fashion and accessories, cult beauty brands and too-chic housewares. G/F, New World Tower, 18 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2810-1120; Shop 232, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2523-5944; Shop G106, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2907-2228.

Nita Fashions — G/F, 16 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2721-9990. Punjab House — Shop G, G/F, Burlington Houswe, 94 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-6612. Raja Fashions — G/F, 34C Cameron Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-7624. Sam’s Tailor — Shop K, Burlington Arcade, 90-94 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-9423.

ShopS+Services Shaniel Custom Tailor — G/F, Shop B & C, Comfort Building, 86-88A Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2730-1251.

SPAS CHUAN SPA — This stunning spa focuses on the individual needs of each client through traditional Chinese medicine and theories, including yin and yang. Its consultants are qualified in Chinese medicine, massage and naturopathy. 41/F, Langham Place Hotel, 555 Shanghai St., Mong Kok, 3552-3510, www.chuanspa.com.

Plateau Spa

PLATEAU SPA — This whopping 80,000-squarefoot spa offers overnight accommodation and an extensive range of facial and body treatments in 23 rooms and suites. Other facilities include a 50-meter outdoor pool, fitness and exercise studios, a poolside grill restaurant and a tree-lined courtyard. 11/F, Grand Hyatt, 1 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, 2588-1234, www.hongkong.grand.hyatt.com.

THE SPA AT FOUR SEASONS — This urban sanctuary is everything you would expect from the Four Seasons: 22,000 square feet of sumptuousness, including Finnish saunas, an ice fountain, a crystal fountain, vitality pools and an amethyst crystal steam room. Two spa suites include a pool for two, day beds and a private bar. 6/F, Four Seasons Hong Kong, 8 Finance St., Central, 3196-8900, www.fourseasons. com/hongkong. TEN FEET TALL — Go to Ten Feet Tall for a slightly different foot massage experience in an exotic ambience. The foot massage center features bright and sunny beach cabanas with pine, bamboo, natural marble and bright décor. The place’s signature treatments include genuine foot reflexology, shoulder and neck massages, pressure point massages and aromatic oil massages. 20-21/F, L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2971-1010, www.tenfeettall.com.hk.

HAIR Flawless

FLAWLESS — This all-in-one shop offers makeup and nail services as well as spa treatments in a spacious upper-level venue. 4/F, Sea Bird House, 22-28 Wyndham St., Central, 2869-5868. IYARA DAY SPA — This Central institution offers everything from manis and pedis to facials, waxing and massage treatments. 1/F, 26 Cochrane St., Central, 2545-8638. KIWI SPA — With light green glass, curved walls and soft light and gentle music, Kiwi offers quality foot and body massages that are affordable at the same time. iPads and headsets are available to use at your leisure while you're enjoying the treatments. 14/F, Century Square Building, 1-13 D'Aguilar St., Central, 2567-1333, www.kiwi-hk.com. MANDARIN SPA — This luxe retreat has eight private treatment rooms, including two couples’ suites, each with private steam shower and pool. Its therapies combine ancient and contemporary techniques, and specialist practitioners offer treatments that incorporate ayurvedic philosophies and traditional Chinese medicine. 24/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4888, www.mandarinoriental.com/ hongkong. MEN’S SKIN CENTRE BY BELLA — This center has tailor-made treatments that focus on deep cleansing, acne treatment, and rehydration to brighten and improve your complexion. It also offers laser hair removal services. 9/F, The L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2526-6352, www.bellaskin.com. MIRASPA — It’s pampering for the 21st century. The Mira Spa is comfortably futuristic, with purple and pure white accents and an indoor pool decorated with twinkling lights. Facilities include a jacuzzi plus steam and sauna rooms—and nifty waterbeds in the pre-treatment room. B3/F, The Mira Hong Kong, 118 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 23155500, www.themirahotel.com.

Sense Of Touch

SENSE OF TOUCH — This award-winning day spa boasts an extensive menu, featuring such services as a couple’s deep tissue and detoxifying massage, a rose hydrating cocoon body wrap and a “forever young” facial. The lush spa also offers a range of exclusive signature treatments, including the Elemis hot stone therapy for body and face. 1-5/F, 52 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2526-6918, www.senseoftouch.com.hk. THE PENINSULA SPA BY ESPA — This two-floor spa has sweeping harbor views. Designed by Henry Leung, the interior fuses contemporary and traditional Chinese elements. Much attention has been given to detail, including 100-percent Egyptian cotton robes and fully automated Clodagh Gemini treatment beds. 7/F, The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2696-6682, www.hongkong.peninsula.com.

The Ritz-Carlton Spa

THE RITZ-CARLTON SPA BY ESPA — Get pampered at the highest hotel spa in the world. Located on the 116th floor, this relaxing retreat looms over the city and offers majestic views of Victoria Harbour. Spa guests can also take a dip in the hotel's sky-high infinity pool after their treatments. 116/F, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 22632040, www.ritzcarlton.com/hongkong.

AIMEE AT THE SHANGRI-LA — Staffed by international stylists offering everything from bridal makeovers, haircuts, coloring and waves to manicures, pedicures and professional makeup application. 8/F, Island Shangri-La, Supreme Court Road, Admiralty, 2918-1339. AIRPLAY BLOW DRY BAR — Get your hair and makeup done all at once at Airplay, and choose from different looks like “Sea Breeze” (wavy hair) or “Mojito” (playful curls). 7/F, W Place, 52 Wyndham St., Central, 2641-9888, www.airplaybar.com. QG PRIVATE I SALON — Located in the Four Seasons, the flagship of the Private I group is suitably beautiful, with floor-to-ceiling windows looking out onto an astounding harbor view. Expect to find yourself rubbing shoulders with politicians, tycoons and the jet set. 6/F, Four Seasons Hong Kong, 8 Finance St., Central, 2521-0070, www.privatei.com.hk.

NAILS NAIL NAIL — This is the place for innovative nails, including gel nails, airbrushing and the truly decadent one-carat diamond manicure, which is by appointment only. It also offers waxing and temporary tattoos. Shop 1091A, 1/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2366-9322, www.nailnail.com.hk. NAIL SPA — Nail services and treatments for men and women are the specialty here, including French manicures and paraffin foot therapy. Gel and acrylic nails are available along with nail painting, embossed nail art, semi-precious gemstones, crystal embossing and graduated nail painting. 1/F, 8 Pak Sha Rd., Causeway Bay, 2478-9333, www.nailspa.com.hk. THE LOFT — A spin-off of The Nail Library in Sheung Wan, this new Central shop right by the escalators offers facials as well as hand and foot spa treatments—and of course, manicures and pedicures. 2/F, 26 Cochrane St., Central, 2618-8623. j a n u a r y 2 015 I WHERE H ONG KONG 31

Navigate | The Guide

Tourist Information HONG KONG TOURISM BOARD — The Hong Kong Tourism Board is ready to answer all your questions about travel in Hong Kong. Look for visitor centers at the following locations: Hong Kong International Airport (at Buffer Halls A and B, Arrivals Level, Terminal 1); Lo Wu (Arrival Hall, 2/F, Lo Wu Terminal Building); Kowloon (Star Ferry Concourse, Tsim Sha Tsui, open daily 8am-8pm); and The Peak Piazza (between The Peak Tower and The Peak Galleria, Hong Kong Island, open daily 9am-9pm). You can also call the Visitor Hotline (2508-1234) from 9am to 6pm. Visit www.discoverhonghong.com for descriptions of attractions, plus shopping, dining and touring tips. The website also has a comprehensive description of the month’s events and festivals, as well as virtual tours, e-cards, a photo gallery and handy downloadable apps for your phone.

Get Moving

Octopus Cards

Hong Kong has a great public transportation system called the MTR, as well as highly punctual, carefully scheduled buses (with their routes clearly printed in English). Renting a car can be a headache because roads can be confusing and parking costly. It’s cheaper and easier to take a taxi, ferry, tram, bus, hotel limousine, or even a helicopter.

These are “tap-and-go” stored-value cards used across all of Hong Kong’s transportation systems (apart from taxis), and in retail outlets like car parks and convenience stores.

Taxis Taxis are readily available at reasonable prices. Be aware that drivers cannot pick up or drop off on roads marked with double yellow lines, and no waiting is allowed except on unmarked roads. Red taxis serve Hong Kong Island and Kowloon and can go anywhere in the territory. Green taxis cost less but only serve the New Territories. Similarly, blue taxis serve Lantau Island only. Drivers generally speak some English, but it is wise to get the hotel staff to write your destination in Chinese characters, or point to one of the destinations in this guide.

The size of a credit card, the Octopus is simply placed on the touch pads at the entrance to public transportation or the cash register in shops. Payment is automatically deducted. Cards can be refilled at MTR stations and any retail outlet that accepts them. Three types of Octopus cards are available. The “On Loan Octopus” costs $150, which includes a $50 deposit and $100 of stored value. The “Sold Octopus” costs $50, and does not include any stored value. The “Airport Express Travel Pass” costs $220/$300 and includes one/two single Airport Express journeys and three days of unlimited rides on the MTR, $20 stored value and a $50 deposit.

Trams have been a part of Hong Kong life for more than 100 years. With a $2.30 flat fare, they are still the cheapest way to get around.

32 W H E R E HONG KONG I j a n u a r y 2 015

Hong Kong

apr il 2013

the complet e guide to

Where to go? Where Hong Kong’s eBook version is your monthly digital tour guide to Hong Kong, perfect for city-dwellers and friends and visitors alike. From the coolest new restaurants to the can’t-miss sightseeing spots, taking an issue of Where Hong Kong on the go is like putting a local Hongkonger in your back pocket. Subscribe to our e-book now at http://hk-magazine.com/user/register

Raise a Glass The best new bars in

Hong Kong

JU ly 2013 the comple

te gUide to

Luxury Brunch es Art GALLeries custom cheonG sAms

hes Saucy Dis ea k, th Have a st

y Ko ng wa e Ho ng

Gin BarS

pHOTOS Tai O, in Spa in w nail HOT ne wan SHeunG

Navigate | The Guide Buses

The Savvy Traveler

Hong Kong has two major bus companies:

Lonely Planet writer Piera Chen has just helped complete the 16th edition of the Hong Kong guide. She tells Tristan Ruzic about her favorite things to do in the city.

citybus / New World First BUS — 2136-8888/2873-0818, www.nwstbus.com.hk.

Kowloon Motor Bus — 2745-4466, www.kmb.hk.

Sights & Attractions

Avenue of Stars

Avenue of Stars — Fans of Hong Kong movies will find their heroes' hand- and footprints permanently etched in concrete along the Avenue of the Stars, as well as a statue of Bruce Lee. Go at 8pm for the nightly music-and-laser extravaganza called the Symphony of Lights. Music only plays over the loudspeakers here, although the harborfront light display can be seen from around the city. Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront, Tsim Sha Tsui.

What is it that you love most about Hong Kong? I love its fascinating complexity and the juxtaposition of seemingly incongruous elements, whether it is the scenery, the food or the Hong Kong-style humor: sharp, irreverent, cocky but self-effacing, and slap-stick. If you could give your readers only one piece of advice about Hong Kong, what would it be? Do not judge too quickly. Be patient and steer clear of clichés. Be open to new experiences. Hong Kong is kinder, quieter and gentler than you may think. I have 24 hours in Hong Kong. What do I do? I would say that you must visit the old residential heart of Tsim Sha Tsui, hike in the High Island Reservoir East Dam, eat dim sum, take a ride on the Star Ferry, and take a walk in Sheung Wan—specifically near the Man Mo Temple and Tai Ping Shan Street. You should also walk around the old parts of Wan Chai near Queen’s Road East. Other options include Victoria Peak, the History Museum, Temple Street night market, and a tram ride. Where is your favorite place to grab a drink? I recommend Club 71 in SoHo. This is a bar where all local artists,

34 W H E R E HONG KONG I j a n u a r y 2 015

musicians, and social activists hang out. It’s very unpretentious. It’s not a bar for rowdiness. It’s a great place to socialize and have intellectual discussions with strangers. What are the most and least affordable accommodations in Hong Kong for a tourist staying for a week? The most affordable accommodations are Urban Pack (Tsim Sha Tsui), YHA Mei Ho House Youth Hostel (Sham Shui Po), and YessInn (Causeway Bay). The most expensive places to stay are definitely the Four Seasons, The Peninsula, and the Mandarin Oriental. What would you say is the best place for street food, vegetarian food, and fancy dining? If you’re going to try street food, go to Yau Ma Tei in the Yau Tsim Mong district. For a great vegetarian meal, go to Pure Veggie House in Admiralty. For something fancier, dine at the Luk Yu Teahouse for good Chinese food, or Nur for western food in Central. Purchase a copy of The Lonely Planet: Hong Kong ($171) at shop.lonelyplanet. com or at any major bookstore.

Big Buddha

Big Buddha — Situated beside Po Lin Monastery on Lantau Island is the Big Buddha—the largest seated outdoor bronze Buddha in the world. The statue is set amid mountains and hiking trails, and looks absolutely stunning on a clear day from the Ngong Ping cable car. Nearby is The Wisdom Path, lined with wood carvings featuring the calligraphy from an important text for Confucians, Buddhists and Taoists. The vegetarian restaurant within the monastery is the best option if you're famished. Ngong Ping Village, Lantau Island, 2985-5248. Cheung Sha Beach — Catch a ferry from Central Pier 6 to Mui Wo, then take Bus 1, 2 or 4 to Cheung Sha. Stretching for three glorious kilometers along Lantau's south coast, Cheung Sha is Hong Kong's longest beach. With silky soft sand and the towering Sunset Peak as a backdrop, it's an island paradise. Lantau Island. Chi Lin Nunnery — An oasis of peace in the heart of Kowloon, this graceful, wooden Buddhist nunnery is the largest building in the world to be constructed using no nails—only wooden dowels and brackets. It's a 33,000-square-meter complex whose architectural style dates back to the Tang Dynasty, although the buildings themselves were completed in 1998. It's centered on a courtyard filled with lotus ponds, and a stroll through the gardens makes for a bucolic escape. Vegetarian food is available in a quaint teahouse. 5 Chi Lin Drive, Diamond Hill, 2354-1888.

Navigate

Duk Ling Chinese Sailing Junk — Launched in 1955, the Duk Ling is one of the last authentic sailing junks in Hong Kong. It can carry up to 36 passengers. 2573-5282. Fa Yuen Street — Heaving with bargain hunters every afternoon, Fa Yuen Street is stuffed with cheap fashion boutiques, factory outlets and accessories stores for men, women and children. Fa Yuen St., Prince Edward. Hong Kong Park — This 8-hectare park has a large walk-through aviary, a conservatory housing unusual and exotic plants, sports and squash centers, a multistory playground, a tai chi garden and a clock tower. In the conservation corner are more than 100 species of dragonflies. Also worth visiting are the Flagstaff House Museum of Tea Ware and the Hong Kong Visual Arts Centre. 19 Cotton Tree Drive, Central, 2521-5041. Hong Kong Wetland Park — This worldclass ecotourism attraction demonstrates the diversity of Hong Kong's wetlands, and the importance of conservation. It's a 61-hectare site with user-friendly facilities such as a stream walk, succession walk, mangrove boardwalk and bird hides. Wetland Park Rd., Tin Shui Wai, 3152-2666.

NO RULES, JUST RIGHT. ‘GO OUTBACK’ TONIGHT! Causeway Bay 2/F, JP Plaza, 22-36 Paterson St. Reservations: 2881 8012 Wanchai 1/F, De Fenwick, 8-12 Fenwick St. Reservations: 3101 0418

www.outback.com.hk

Whampoa Shop 3A, G/F, Site 4, Whampoa Garden, Hunghom Reservations: 2766 2823

Tuen Mun Tsuen Wan

Whampoa Tsim Sha Tsui Wanchai

Tsim Sha Tsui East Taikoo Causeway Bay

Tsim Sha Tsui Shop 1, Level 2, 26 Nathan Rd. Reservations: 3741 1728

Tsim Sha Tsui East Shops 23-28, Upper Ground Floor, Tsim Sha Tsui Centre, 66 Mody Rd. Reservations: 2311 7800 Tsuen Wan Shops 3-5, Level 2, Discovery Park Shopping Centre, 398 Castle Peak Rd. Reservations: 2940 0682 Taikoo Shops G9-G10, G/F, Kornhill Plaza, 1 Kornhill Rd. Reservations: 2560 8246 Tuen Mun Shop 2016-2017, 2/F, Phase 1, Tuen Mun Town Plaza Reservations: 2426 3918

Jade Market — In Chinese culture, jade is associated with good health and a long life. The jade market stalls sell everything from expensive carved jade to cheap trinkets, as well as pearls and other jewelry of varying quality. Kansu St. and Battery St., Yau Ma Tei. Ladies' Market — Find dog toys, trinkets and accessories, racy underwear, costume jewelry and more all along this road. Down the side lanes are vintage shops, fashion outlets and the occasional restaurant. Tung Choi St., Mong Kok. Open daily noon-11:30pm.

Lan Kwai Fong

Lan Kwai Fong — Thankfully closed to cars most of the time, these thoroughfares are jam-packed full of bars and nightclubs, with revelers spilling out into the streets at all hours. Attracting yuppies and visitors like moths to a flame, a good night out in Lan Kwai Fong is almost guaranteed. Lan Kwai Fong, near D'Aguilar St., Central. Mai Po Marshes — Who knew that Hong Kong was a bird-watcher's paradise? The 1,500-hectare Mai Po Marshes reserve is run by the World Wildlife Fund and is a designated Wetland of International j a n u a r y 2 015 I WHERE H ONG KONG 35

Navigate | The Guide

Importance thanks to the thousands of migratory wading birds passing through each autumn and winter. Mai Po Nature Reserve, Yuen Long, 2482-0369.

Man Mo Temple

Sam’s The Man

Man Mo Temple — This atmospheric temple must be one of the most photographed in Hong Kong. Great incense spirals dangle from the rafters, filling the roof space with aromatic smoke and lending a deep patina to the statues of gods Man Cheong (god of literature) and Kuan Ti (god of martial arts, or Mo) on the altars. 126 Hollywood Rd., near Ladder St., Sheung Wan.

seemingly impossible angle that enchants all aboard. Sit on the right for the best views. St. Joseph's Building, Central, 2522-0922. Shek O — Hop on Bus 9 from Shau Kei Wan MTR Station, and you'll reach a wide beach on the eastern shores of Hong Kong Island. Separated from the city by a twisting, 40-minute drive, Shek O is a laid-back haven popular with surfers, who kick back here after riding the waves at nearby Big Wave Bay. Sha Tin Racecourse — Join the screaming hordes at Happy Valley and Sha Tin racecourses for a few adrenalin-fueled hours. Mingle with the masses in the stands, or opt for the more refined atmosphere in the boxes. The season runs September to mid-June, with about 700 races a year held an average of twice a week.

(Just ask his customers)

Sam’s Tailor, Shop K, Burlington Arcade, 92-94 Nathan Road, Tsimshatsui, Kowloon. Tel: (852) 2367 9423 / 2721 8375 Fax: (852) 2311 8147

Stanley Ngong Ping 360

Ngong Ping 360 — This kitschy culturalthemed village features dining, retail and entertainment attractions. The cable car offers panoramic views as it passes over North Lantau Country Park to the Big Buddha. 111 Ngong Ping Rd., Lantau Island, 3666-0606. Ocean Park — Get up close and personal with a dolphin or a panda, walk through a shark tank, dive into a coral reef or whirl upside down on a roller coaster. Located near Aberdeen, Ocean Park manages to amuse and educate with its marine and bird life exhibits, giant panda enclosure, wild headland rides, and a cable car trip between the park's two parts. 180 Wong Chuk Hang Rd., Aberdeen, 2552-0291.

Stanley — The seaside township of Stanley has a market, shops, restaurants and bars that line a bay on one side and a beach on the other. It's the perfect place to take a walk along the waterfront, chill at an alfresco resto and pick up some souvenirs. Stanley Main St., Stanley. Tai O — It would be wishful thinking to describe this fishing village as a Venice of the East, but there's no doubting the charm of its maze of stilt houses built over a creek on the northwestern coast of Lantau Island. It's a fascinating slice of old Hong Kong, with dried fish stalls, trays of smelly shrimp paste, a picturesque Tin Hau Temple at the end of a causeway and a couple of interesting little museums. A boutique hotel and restaurant add a touch of colonial elegance to the traditional town. Lantau Island.

This could be yours in

HONG KONG For Advertising rates and further information. Call 2850 5678 36 W H E R E HONG KONG I j a n u a r y 2 015

Peak Tram

Peak Tram — There was a time when the best way up the Peak was by sedan chair— a grueling experience, particularly for the bearers. So the arrival of the Peak Tram was a blessing, one for which we are still thankful. The little funicular railway is one of the best trips in town, panting up Hong Kong Island's tallest mountain at a

Ten Thousand Buddhas

Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery — One of the most celebrated monasteries in Hong Kong, the Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery actually has more than 12,800

Navigate

Buddhas stored in five temples, four pavilions and a nine-story pagoda. The one that you're likely to remember best is the mummified Buddhist monk, who sits in splendor, coated in gold leaf, inside a glass case. Light meals are served at the on-site vegetarian restaurant. Sha Tin, 2691-1067. Wong Tai Sin Temple — Named after the deity Wong Tai Sin, this Taoist temple completed its restoration in 1973 and is a popular shrine for local pilgrims who want to glimpse their future via a Chinese practice called "kau cim." Lung Cheung Rd., Wong Tai Sin, 2327-8141.

Embassies & Consulates Argentina 2523-3208; Australia 28278881; Bangladesh 2827-4278; Belgium 2524-3111; Brazil 2525-7002; Canada 3719-4700; Chile 2827-1826; China (China Travel) 2853-3888; Colombia 2545-8547; Czech Republic 2802-2212; Egypt 2827-0668; Finland 2525-5385; France 3752-9900; Germany 2105-8788; Greece 2774-1682; India 3970-9900; Israel 2821-7500; Italy 2522-0033; Japan 2522-1184; Korea 2529-4141; Laos 2544-1186; Malaysia 2821-0800; Mexico 2511-3305; Netherlands 25229200; New Zealand 2525-5044; Pakistan 2827-0295; Philippines 2823-8501; Peru 2868-2622; Poland 2840-0779; Russia 2877-7188; Singapore 2527-2212; Spain 2525-3041; Sweden 2521-1212; Switzerland 3509-5000; Taiwan 2530-1187; Thailand 2521-6481; Turkey 2572-1331; United Arab Emirates 2866-1823; United Kingdom 2901-3000; USA 2523-9011; Venezuela 2730-8099; Vietnam 2591-4510.

Financial Matters Generally, business hours are weekdays 9am-5pm, with a lunch hour from 1-2pm, and Saturdays 9am-1pm. The local currency is the Hong Kong dollar. There is no central mint; instead, notes are issued by three separate private banks and the city’s Monetary Authority. The Hong Kong dollar is pegged to the US dollar at a rate of approximately US$1 to HK$7.75. Denominations include $10, $20, $50, $100, $500 and $1,000 notes. Coins come in denominations of 10, 20 and 50 cents, and 1, 2, 5 and 10 dollars. BANKS — Major banks are open weekdays 9am-4:30pm, and Saturdays 9am12:30pm. Banks are closed Sundays and public holidays. Some services, such as foreign exchange-related transactions, are not available at banks one hour before closing. The following details are for the banks’ main offices, call for retail locations: Bank of America, 41/F, Two IFC, 8 Finance St., Central, 2847-5222; Citibank, Citibank Tower, 3 Garden Rd., Central, 2868-8888; HSBC, 1 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2233-3000; Standard Chartered Bank, 4 Des Voeux Rd. Central, 2886-8868. j a n u a r y 2 015 I WHERE H ONG KONG 37

Walking Tours | The Guide

A Taste of Hong Kong’s Markets For a non-stop-shop experience like the local urbanites have, you need look no further than Yau Ma Tei and Mong Kok—the heart of the Kowloon Peninsula. Within these two neighborhoods are side streets and alleys that are home to some of Hong Kong’s liveliest markets. You’ll be amazed by the teeming masses jostling to and fro in this unique and atmospheric district. Walking through Yau Ma Tei and Mong Kok is a memorable experience any time of the day or night. You’ll love the ambience and the great deals you can get on souvenirs, clothing, electronic goods and so much more.

Goldfish Market Shops selling colorful fish of different species along with furnishings and decorations for aquariums line both sides of Tung Choi Street. The shops are usually open 10:30am-10pm daily. Walk along Tung Choi Street, turn left into Bute Street and then turn right into Fa Yuen Street.

Fa Yuen Street Fa Yuen Street is the place to be if you want to find trendy fashions and casual wear for men, women and children at bargain prices. Open 11am-9:30pm daily.

Walk along Fa Yuen Street to Mong Kok Road, turn right and cross the road to reach another section of Tung Choi Street. Walk to Argyle Street and cross the road to reach the starting point of the Ladies’ Market.

Ladies’ Market Head to the Prince Edward MTR Station and exit at B1. Walk east along Prince Edward Road West to the Yuen Po Street Bird Garden.

Yuen Po Street Bird Garden Set within an attractive Chinese-style courtyard, the Yuen Po Street Bird Garden is a market catering to the owners of pet birds. They come to the market with cage in hand to find new birds of different types and sizes, buy accessories and food for their pets, or to just take their pet birds for a “walk” and meet up with other bird owners. The garden, with its many singing avian 38 W H E R E HONG KONG I j a n u a r y 2 015

creatures, offers a unique Hong Kong experience. Open 7am-8pm daily. Walk through the Bird Garden to the junction of Yuen Po Street and Flower Market Road.

Flower Market This hub of Hong Kong’s wholesale and retail floral business will welcome you first with the sweet natural fragrances and then with the eye-catching colors of flowers and plants sold for very attractive prices. Open 7am-7pm daily. At the end of Flower Market Road, turn left and then right into Prince Edward Road West. Walk west until you see a gas station, then left into Tung Choi Street.

Don’t be deceived by the name. The Ladies’ Market has something for everyone, vending bargain-priced items including men’s and women’s clothing, knickknacks, watches and beauty products. Beside the stalls are Hong Kong-style cafes that offer local favorites. Open noon-11:30pm daily. Walk through the Ladies’ Market to its end at Dundas Street. Turn right and walk to Shanghai Street, then turn left.

Shanghai Street Get a taste of the bygone days of Hong Kong and visit one of the city’s oldest streets. Many of the buildings date back to the early 1900s, and some shops have existed for decades. Look for shops selling Chinese-style wedding clothes, which feature stunning embroidery. In the past there were many of these shops;

now, just a few remain. It’s also a great place to pick up bargain kitchenware. Continue along Shanghai Street and turn right at Kansu Street to find the Jade Market.

What happened at the Pinewood Battery? *

Jade Market/Jade Street About 400 registered stall owners sell amulets, ornaments, necklaces and trinkets made from the revered green stone. This is a fun place to browse and to buy an inexpensive memento of your visit, but think twice before buying anything costly unless you are a jade expert. Open 10am-5pm daily. Nearby is Jade Street, located on Canton Road between Kansu Street and Jordan Road, with shops open Mon-Sat 10am4pm. Jade and gemstone testing is available at Jade Plaza. A giant jade stone, weighing three tons, has been placed at the junction of Canton Road and Jordan Road as a landmark. Go back to Shanghai Street, walk north to the junction of Shanghai and Public Square streets, turn right and walk to the Tin Hau Temple.

Tin Hau Temple This temple is dedicated to Tin Hau, the goddess of seafarers. Its location in the middle of Yau Ma Tei might seem odd, but long ago, before massive land reclamation, it was on the harbor. The waterfront has since been pushed to the south, but people continue to worship here. You can go inside 8am-5pm daily. Walk to Temple Street, which you’ll find on the other side of the temple.

Temple Street Night Market This is the famous night market, open from 4pm until midnight daily, where you can find all kinds of cheapo items, including clothes, sunglasses, gadgets and curios. You’ll also often see fortune tellers, Cantonese opera singers and professional Chinese chess players hanging out too.

*Learn about this and other fascinating facts in

Historical Hong Kong Hikes A guide to 15 remarkable treks, detailing the rich history of the SAR’s peaks, valleys and urban neighborhoods

In all major bookstores now! Or order yours at: www.historicalhkhikes.com

j a n u a r y 2 015 I WHERE H ONG KONG 39

map of Central ÂŠ OpenStreetMap contributors. See openstreetmap.org

40 W H E R E HONG KONG I j a n u a r y 2 015

map of Tsim Sha Tsui

Y ÂŠ OpenStreetMap contributors. See openstreetmap.org

J a n u a r y 2 015 I WHERE H ONG KONG 41

30 Things we LOve about Hong Kong 2

1 Shopping at PMQ.

9 Snaking through the

35 Aberdeen St., Central.

high-rises on the Mid-Levels Escalator—the longest in the world. Cochrane, Shelley and Peel Streets, Central.

2 Marveling at the beautiful Chi Lin Nunnery, the world’s largest building constructed without nails. 5 Chi Lin Drive, Diamond Hill, 2354-1604.

3 Visiting the Kun Yam Temple. Kun Yam Street, Jordan. 4 Dining aboard the kitschycool Jumbo Floating Restaurant. Shum Wan Pier Drive, Wong Chuk Hang, Aberdeen, 2553-9111.

5 Riding a cable car 5.7 kilometers over Lantau’s lush valleys to visit the Ngong Ping cultural village and the Big Buddha.

6 Being fitted for a tailor-made suit. Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui.

7 Shopping for antique kitsch on Cat Street (Upper Lascar Row) in Sheung Wan.

8 Cheering on jockeys at the Sha Tin Racecourse on Sundays. Visit www.hkjc.com for info.

!0 Taking a walk down the Historic Trail at the Museum of Coastal Defense. 2569-1500. !1 Eating with the locals at a dai pai dong food stall. Gough Street, Central. !2 Getting a shave and a trim at the Mandarin Barber. 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2522-0111. !3 Exploring Lamma Island, then feasting on deep-fried squid at Rainbow Seafood. 23-25 First St., Sok Kwu Wan, Lamma Island, 2982-8100. !4 Having our palms read at Temple Street Night Market. Temple Street, Yau Ma Tei. !5 Sipping on decadent cocktails while taking in the spectacular view at Eyebar. 30/F, iSquare, 63 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2487-3988.

42 W H E R E HONG KONG I j a n u a r y 2 015

!6 Taking one of the oldest rides in Hong Kong—a tram from Western Market in Sheung Wan to Causeway Bay.

@4 Buying witty chinoiserie at Shanghai Tang's beautiful flagship mansion. 1 Duddell St., Central, 2525-7333.

!7 Cruising Victoria Harbour on the Duk Ling, an authentic Chinese junk. 2573-5282.

@5 Watching the sunset from tranquil Pui O Beach. Lantau Island.

!8 Being entertained by the intriguing performances and exhibitions at the Fringe Club. 2 Lower Albert Rd., Central, 2521-7251.

@6 Snacking on delicious egg tarts at Tai Cheong Bakery. 32 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, 8300-8301.

!9 Marveling at the Symphony of Lights show over Victoria Harbour at 8pm every night. @0 Haggling with hawkers for jade, gold and cheap jewelry at the Jade Market. Kansu and Battery Streets, Yau Ma Tei. @1 Dressing up for high tea at The Peninsula. Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2696-6772. @2 Taking a ride on the Peak Tram. 33 Garden Rd., Central, 2522-0922. @3 Doing some late-night shopping on Sai Yeung Choi Street in Mong Kok.

@7 Seeing our animated favorites come to life at Hong Kong Disneyland. Lantau Island, 1-830-830. @8 Stopping for tea at Fook Ming Tong Tea Shop. Shop 3316, 3/F, The Gateway, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2735-1077. @9 Spending the afternoon at the mall. Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2844-8988. #0 Slurping oysters for brunch at Cafe Deco. 1-2/F, The Peak Galleria, 118 Peak Rd., The Peak, 2849-5111.

Arch Angel Authenticated museum quality Asian antiquities. 53/55 Hollywood Road • Central • Hong Kong • Tel: (852) 2851 6848 • Fax: (852) 2851 6778 • Open Daily: 9:30-6:30 Email: antiques@ArchAngelAntiques.com.hk