WHERE Hong Kong - March 2015 by WHERE Hong Kong

where Hong Kong 3.2015 ®

the guide

06 Hot Dates Hong Kong’s hottest concerts, shows and events

14 ESSENTIALS A quintessential Hong Kong experience

18 art + culture Top galleries and our pick of what’s happening

24 dining Your A-Z of the best eats in town

32 Drinks Our favorite places to sip cocktails

46 Walking Tour Explore a neighborhood on foot

48 Map Central

Also inside

features 10 Sevens Heaven Catch the biggest game of the year

06 Art to Art Art fairs galore

34 Shops + services From mega malls to local designers 42 NAVIGATE Fast facts and essential info 50 30 THINGS WE LOVE Hong Kong’s all-time top spots and best experiences

on the cover the coMplete guide to go®

Hong Kong

24 snack attack

Art fairs galore Top dim sum halls Easy city hikes

Top dim sum halls

Cover: Power Sport Images for HKRFU

March 2015

SevenS Heaven Take part in the most exciting sporting event of the year

wheretraveler.com The website from the editors of Where Magazine. Get all the latest city buzz from our experts—info only the locals know.

The Cathay Pacific/HSBC Hong Kong Rugby Sevens is hands-down one of the most spectacular sporting events of the year, attracting tens of thousands of fans from all over the world to Hong Kong Stadium for a weekend of rugby and partying. Learn all about the event on p.10. M a r c h 2 015 I WHERE ho ng k o n g 3

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maga z ine

On the web: www.wherehongkong.com HK Magazine Media group HK | ADVERTISING & CIRCULATION General MANAGER & Publisher Greg Crandall director of sales Gary Wong Strategic Sales Director Jan Cheng Associate Advertising Director Joe Ng Senior Sales Manager Joyce Wu Senior Advertising Manager Kent Ma Advertising Manager Dominic Lucien Brettell Advertising Executive Bonita Yung, Celia Wong, Harriette Cheung, Lamy Lam Advertising Coordinator Yan Man Marketing MANAGER James Gannaban Marketing & Circulation Executive Charmaine Mirandilla Accounts Services Executive Sharon Cheung IT SYSTEMS Manager Derek Wong

HK | EDITORIAL EDITOR-in-chief Zach Hines EDITOR Adele Wong STAFF WRITERs Evelyn Lok, Charlotte Mulliner CONTRIBUTORs Nicholas Cheung, Cynthia Chung, Andrea Lo

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HONG KONG

Room 302, 3/F, Hollywood Centre, 233 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, Hong Kong Phone: 2850-5065 Fax: 2543-1880 Published by where Hong Kong Publishing Ltd., Printed by Apex Print Limited, 11-13 Dai Kwai Street, Tai Po Industrial Estate, Tai Po, New Territories. where makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited. where is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications-Where Magazine. ®

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Painted Pottery Fat Lady Figure Tang Dynasty

early pottery ceramics sculptures authenticated museum and collector quality

hot dates Hong Kong By Evelyn Lok

March 15-17 Basel Dazzle

Ben Brown Fine Arts

Starkwhite

Widely considered the world’s premier art show for modern and contemporary works, Art Basel returns for its third edition. Aside from the White Cubes and Gagosians, new to Art Basel this year is Hong Kong’s Am space gallery, featuring sound artist Samson Young; and Leo Gallery from Hong Kong and Shanghai, showcasing works by Zhang Jianjun—best known for his large scale installations reflecting on urban life in China. Vernissage on Mar 14. HK Convention and Exhibition Centre, 1 Expo Drive, Wan Chai. Weekday ticket starts from $250 from www.hkticketing.com or on-site.

Photos: MCH Messe Schweiz (Basel) AG

Blindspot Gallery

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hot dates March 13-16

March 14-15

Eastward Bound

Across the Pond The Asia Hotel Art Fair is the only major art event this month in Kowloon, and besides dominating several floors of the Marco Polo Hongkong Hotel, it will also be taking over the adjacent Harbour City shopping mall. Art installations include works by a range of Japanese and Korean contemporary artists, as well as sketches and prints by Christo from the worldrenowned husband and wife artist duo Christo and Jean-Claude.

Launched in 2012 as an open studios event in the Island East neighborhood of Chai Wan, the Chai Wan Mei Art and Design Festival is the perfect way to get acquainted with the up and coming art community there. On that weekend, you’ll get to explore over 30 open art and design spaces, on top of exciting guerrilla art installations staged around the area. Local resto FoodLab is also pairing up with artist Florian Ma to create a dining experience showcasing his art.

7-8/F, Marco Polo Hongkong Hotel, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, hotelartfair.kr/hongkong2015. $100 from www.hkticketing.com.

Mar 14, 11am-7pm; 15, 11am-9pm. Free shuttle buses taking you from Wan Chai and Central to Chai Wan will be available every 30 minutes. Log onto chaiwanmei.org for further details.

March 12

March 13-15

March 14-16

Dark Arts

To Asia and Beyond

Center of Attention

Hong Kong’s Art Gallery Association (HKAGA) will once again be kicking off this packed month of art with HKAGA Art Night, an open celebration where more than 40 member galleries will have extended opening hours until 10pm. The galleries—reaching far and wide from Sheung Wan to South Island to Chai Wan, will also host special events such as performances, cocktail receptions, and talks.

March also marks this year’s spring edition of the Asia Contemporary Art Show, traditionally held twice a year. ACAS is featuring galleries from five continents, spread out across five floors at the Conrad Hotel. Take a peek at some local artwork from galleries such as Fusia Arts and Fabrik Gallery, which will showcase works by photographer Pako Leung Pak-ho and multimedia collage artist Mo Shah.

Newest to Hong Kong’s art fair roster is Art Central. Held at the Central Harbourfront just a stone’s throw from the Convention Centre, it’s to be the most prominent satellite event to Art Basel of late. The fair will showcase more than 70 contemporary art galleries in the biggest temporary tent structure Hong Kong has seen.

6-10pm. Free, no registration required. See www.hk-aga.org for details on participating galleries.

40-44/F, Conrad Hong Kong, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty. $180 in advance for two-for-one entry from www.hkticketing.com; $360 at the door. $260 for VIP tickets to the March 12 Collector’s Preview Night.

Mar 14-15, 11am-7pm; 16, 11am-5pm. VIP Preview Mar 13-14, 10am onwards. $50-200 from www.hkticketing.com. Book before Mar 13 for one complimentary entry.

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Y Y

hot dates Hong Kong March 7-8; 14-15

Through March 29

South Island Fever

Open Studio Policy

Art’s Well that Ends Well

For a chance to explore the Southside’s ever-growing art scene, check out the third edition of the annual Wong Chuk Hang Art Night. You will be able to visit more than 20 of the South Island Cultural District’s art galleries and artist studios, and join in on an evening of live music, dance performances, food and drink. The event extends into a Wong Chuk Hang open-doors weekend lasting from 11am-6pm for the next two days.

Now in its 15th edition, the yearly Fotanian Open Studios opens up the typically private work studios of artists working at Fo Tan’s industrial buildings to the public. This time, the studios will be open for two weekends throughout March. Visitors are encouraged to browse at their leisure, take a guided tour or attend one of many panel discussions with the artists themselves.

The 43rd Hong Kong Arts Festival comes to an almost-close this month—catch the last shows still available, such as Bulgarian pianist Plamena Mangova with the HK Sinfonietta; “The Crowd,” a Chinese play about the struggle of the individual against the masses; or “Theatre of Voices” performing a lineup of oratorio works by Arvo Pärt.

March 15-18

Mar 15, 5-11pm. Free shuttle service provided from Wan Chai and Central, and on a circular Southside route from 5-10pm. sicd.com.hk.

Wah Luen Industrial Centre and nearby buildings, 15-21 Wong Chuk Yeung St., Fo Tan, www.facebook.com/FotanianOpenStudios.

Various dates and times. Check www. hk.artsfestival.org for more information.

March 12-14

March 21-22

Moggie Memories

Big Laughs

Give Me Five

The Andrew Lloyd Webber phenomenon “Cats” is coming to Macau for an exclusive 10-day run—so expect these tickets to sell like hot cakes. The song and dance spectacular first opened in London in May 1981 and has won a record-breaking number of awards. For anyone not in the loop: Cats is based on TS Eliot’s 1939 book of poems “Old Possum’s Book of Practical Cats”, and tells the tale of a tribe of Jellicle cats as they gather for the annual Jellicle ball. Expect world-renowned songs, a fantastical set, incredible costumes and a great night out.

The inaugural Hong Kong edition of the Magners International Comedy Festival— Asia’s biggest comedy fest—arrives this March, bringing top international headliners to Hong Kong. Laugh your heart out with mustsee comics such as Aussie stand-up John Robertson; “the world’s smallest comedian” Imaan Hadchiti; and US funnyman Al Lubel. Local comedians taking part include Vivek Mahbubani, who’s won multiple awards for his bilingual jokes and easygoing demeanor. Part of the festival includes a competition in each city, taking the final winner to the Edinburgh Fringe Festival.

If you didn’t get tickets to the Rugby Sevens, turn your attention to the next best thing: the Beach 5s. It’s a free, family-friendly weekend by the sea, with beach rugby, football, netball and dodgeball competitions. Plus you can expect great live music, fresh food and flowing drinks of course!

Photo: Prudential Beach 5s.

March 6-15

Various dates and times. Venetian Theatre, The Venetian, Macau, (+853) 2882-8888. $280-680 from www.hkticketing.com. 8 W H E R E HONG KONG I M ARCH 2 015

Various times and locations. $200-888 from ticketflap.com.

Repulse Bay. Free, with shuttle buses from Central. For more information see www.hkbeach5s.com.

W W W. S E V V A . H K

Sevens Heaven All you need to know about the Hong Kong Rugby Sevens. All photo credits: Power Sport Images for HKRFU

Every March, the Hong Kong Stadium comes alive hosting the city’s biggest sporting event of the year: the Hong Kong Sevens. The annual rugby tournament originated in 1976, and has grown from a regional competition to an international spectacle that attracts tens of thousands of fans from all over the world. The Sevens is a three-day affair that starts on Friday and ends on Sunday, with lots of festivities scheduled before, after, and in between. This year, it will be held on March 27-29. The Hong Kong tournament is considered the most popular and prestigious out of the Sevens World Series, which runs throughout the year in seven other cities besides Hong Kong. The current series started in October 2014 in Australia, and will end in England in May. Despite high demand, tickets can still be bought online via www.hksevens.com, and last-minute tickets can often be found on online forums. If you’re not planning to watch the games live, there are still plenty of activities around town to get you into the spirit during the Sevens weekend.

Fast Facts • In Hong Kong, there are 28 teams competing for Cup Champion with accompanying prize money of US$100,000.

Dress to Impress The party atmosphere at the stadium during the Sevens is what makes it stand out from other sporting events. Patrons like to dress up in costumes, and you’ll witness groups in outrageous coordinated outfits as much as you’ll see people sporting team jerseys. Want to pick up a last-minute costume and join in on the fun? Check out the stalls on Pottinger Street in Central and grab yourself something catchy.

• The Hong Kong Stadium has a capacity of 40,000. • Fifteen core teams participate in the whole world series.

Costume Ideas: Groot from “Guardians of the Galaxy” Mask, $790, Matteo Party, 3/F, 530-532 Jaffe Rd., Causeway Bay, 2342-8887, www.matteoparty.com.

Anna and Elsa from “Frozen” Dresses from $1,088, Cosplay HK, www.cosplay.com.hk.

Hot Dog Goldin Trading, Room 1215, Lladro Centre, 72 Hoi Yuen Rd., Kwun Tong, 2541-4598, goldintrading.com. 10 WH E R E HONG KONG I M ARCH 2 015

• Historically, New Zealand has been the strongest team, taking home the title almost every year since the world series began in 1999. • Rugby originated in England, and Hong Kong, being a former British colony, has embraced the sport as one of its own. • HSBC has been the title sponsor of the Sevens World Series for the past five years. Cathay Pacific is a co-sponsor this year.

Party People

Catch It Here

Rugby not enough? Check out these cool places to hang out before, during and after the game.

If you haven’t scored a ticket, this is where the next best action is at.

Louis Roederer Champagne Tent

This popular rugby pub boasts one of the best selections of international beers in the city and a delish gastro-pub menu to boot. It’ll be broadcasting the matches live all weekend and it’s always crowded for sports games here, so you can be guaranteed an atmosphere to rival that of the stadium. What’s more, it’s happy hour all day!

The Champagne Tent is back for the ultimate in glitzy Sevens after parties, a mere rugby ball’s throw from the stadium. The corks pop just before final whistle each day and continue until late. You’ll get your money’s worth—as rubbing shoulders with the rugby stars is kinda par for the course. Mar 27-29, Indian Recreation Club, 63 Caroline Hill Rd., Causeway Bay. $300 until March 20 from www.ironmongerevents. com; $350 from March 23-26 (pick-up only); $400 at the door (subject to availability). Drinks not included.

Hong Kong Sevens Hospitality Village Do the Sevens in style in a fully catered marquee just 50 yards from the stadium. Besides live coverage of all the action on giant screens, there’s an open bar until final whistle, buffet breakfast and lunch, afternoon tea, and complimentary access to the Louis Roederer after party. Packages can also include tickets to the game. Mar 28-29, $10,900 including two days of hospitality and Sevens tickets for all three days; Saturday or Sunday only, $4,500 not including match tickets. For more info see www.ironmongerevents.com.

The Globe

45-53 Graham St., Central, 2543-1941.

Bulldog’s It’s business as usual at Bulldog’s this year, which means affordable drinks in a comfy, lively atmosphere. The bar will broadcast the matches live all weekend at all it branches, so if you didn’t score tickets to the Happy Valley showdown, this is the place to be. Shop G5-UG15, Tsim Sha Tsui Centre, 66 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2311-6993.

Inn Side Out If you can’t be inside the stadium, the next best thing is to be a hop, skip and a jump away from the action on the pitch. Watch the games on the big screen over a couple (or six) pints at Inn Side Out, right on Caroline Hill Road. Once the final whistle blows, this popular pub will be jampacked with fans. 2/F, 88 Caroline Rd., Causeway Bay, 2895-2900.

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Meet the Hong Kong Players Which teams are your biggest threats? We can’t take any team lightly, as there are no second chances in the qualifier. However, teams like Spain, who have been on the World Series for a few years; and Russia, who always perform well in Hong Kong, will be tough to beat, as will Zimbabwe and Tonga. We will definitely have to be on top of our game to beat them.

Jamie Hood Captain HK Sevens; Fly half/full back/scrum half How do you rate your chances of qualifying for the Sevens World Series this year? It’s always going to be tough to qualify with only one space up for grabs. Even harder considering there are some really good teams involved in the qualifier. However, we’ve been training well and are building slowly towards peaking at the right time. The support in the Hong Kong Stadium is also a massive plus for us. The noise when you run out of the tunnel is fantastic!

How does the team prepare in the last few minutes before going on pitch? Different people like to prepare in different ways. The last few minutes are usually very focused. Each of us is focusing on our individual roles and responsibilities and what we have to get done on the pitch. There’s not any head banging that goes on! You can’t hear anything as soon as you line up in the tunnel anyway as the noise in the stadium is so loud. What should the fans be most looking forward to this year? The rugby is incredible of course, but so are the performances on the Sunday and all of the people in fancy dress. My advice is to try and sample as much as possible and get around to different parts of the stadium to really soak up the atmosphere.

competition comes from within Asia but the Cathay Pacific/HSBC Hong Kong Women’s Rugby Sevens is a worldwide event. Every year we have lots of worldclass teams traveling to Hong Kong for this.

Christy Cheng Ka-chi Women’s Co-captain; Flanker Are you excited about this year’s expanded tournament? Of course! We have been trying to have it become a two-day tournament for a while, so teams can get more rest and be able to put in an even better performance each game. What’s your favorite thing about competing in the Sevens? I’m always excited to see which teams are coming to compete. Most of our 12 WH E R E HONG KONG I M ARCH 2 015

Do you feel women’s rugby gets sidelined during the Sevens for the men’s tournament? Not at all. The women’s cup final will be showcased in the stadium on Friday night and it’s always the highlight of the opening day. Also, women’s rugby is growing internationally. We are getting more exposure every year and with the expansion of the tournament this year it’s going to be really exciting. Do you have a costume lined up for the weekend matches? Hopefully my costume will be the Hong Kong team kit as we’d like to make it to the women’s cup final. I have never been a big fan of fancy dress but I like face painting and will have an HK flag on my face to show support for our boys during the weekend.

If you could be in the stands, what would your fancy dress costume be? I’ve got a few friends going as Spanish dancers this year, so I’d probably join them. The last time I went as a spectator a group of us dressed up in Star Wars outfits. There was a Princess Leia, Jabba the Hut, C3PO— we pretty much covered the whole cast. Which is the best seat in the house? If you’re looking for a party atmosphere then you can’t beat the South Stand, especially on the Saturday. It’s an unreal atmosphere in there and everyone is having an awesome time! For the best views of the stadium and the rugby, sitting high up in the West Stand is fantastic—it feels like you are right on top of the pitch.

Memorable Moments Nick Hewson Flanker; Captain, Hong Kong 15s 2013: “On the Sunday, we had three guys wake up on finals morning with food poisoning. This pulled the side closer together and we managed to pull off a couple of monumental upsets. We ended up being in the Bowl final against England which we inevitably lost; however, playing in that final in front of a full crowd was a massive buzz. We won the hearts of the supporters through our endeavor.

Cado Lee Ka-to Scrum Half 2012: “From a spectator’s point of view, I enjoyed some exciting games in the past, like in 2012 when Hong Kong played Japan. Hong Kong lost that game but we played exceptionally well despite being a man down for most of the game. We managed to hold them through to extra time. I’d say it’s probably the best Hong Kong performance I’d ever seen—brave and strong. Also I always like to see the people in fancy dress.

Essentials | The Guide

Take a Hike

Did you know half of Hong Kong is covered in greenery? Here are four easily accessible trails for the adventurous, nature-loving traveler.

Bowen Road It may take a short huff ‘n’ puff to get up past Kennedy Road, but after you reach Bowen, this popular paved path hugging the hillside—stretching from the MidLevels to the area above Happy Valley —is blissfully flat. Full of joggers and dog-walkers and shaded by leafy greenery, the 4-kilometer way is clearly marked and offers stellar views of the city, harbor and mountains. More than just a daily constitutional is on offer here. In the middle of Bowen lies Lovers’ Rock; after a short climb, be rewarded with more lovely panoramas and a bit of good luck—apparently if you worship it, you’ll have a happy marriage. The Seychelles Consulate and an old red-brick British Military hospital line the way, as do several pieces of public exercise equipment. Getting There: Walk up the hill from any number of points along Queen’s Road in Wan Chai, or east from Robinson Road in the Mid-Levels. A number of buses also stop on the Stubbs Road end. Of course, you could always take a cab to where Bowen intersects Stubbs Road or Magazine Gap Road, depending on where you want to start.

Lower Shing Mun Reservoir On a clear, blue-sky day, this pleasant stroll is ideal for folks who want to get up close and personal with nature without expending a lot of effort. Located in Tai Wai, the Lower Shing Mun Reservoir was built in the 1960s, and the lower reservoir falls outside of the protected Shing Mun Country Park, where the upper reservoir is located. Once the taxi drops you off at the dam, there are two roads that take you around the perimeter of the reservoir. To your immediate left is a shady path overrun with macaque monkeys. You can also walk along the other end, past the hobbyists flying their model planes, and start along a quiet 14 WH E R E HONG KONG I M ARCH 2 015

Essentials Wan Chai Gap Road to Wong Nai Chung Road At just over 7 kilometers long, the trail takes approximately two hours to complete; it features wide roads and fairly flat ground for the most part, making it a popular hike for local residents. The trail begins where Wan Chai Gap Road meets Stubbs Road. It’s covered by evergreen trees native to the area, so be sure to look out for the many species of butterflies and birds present throughout the hike. Hikers continue on to a short stint on Middle Gap Road, which in turn leads up towards Mount Cameron. The hardest part of the whole trail, this small section wanders upwards on a slope till the junction with Black’s Link appears on your left. (Fear not—the uphill struggle will only last around 15 minutes, depending on your physical fitness.) A popular spot for joggers and dog-walkers, Black’s Link leads directly eastward towards Wong Nai Chung Road. It’s all nice and easy from here on, as it leads into the journey’s final stretch on Wong Nai Chung Reservoir Road. At the Reservoir Park, you will find a number of recreational facilities, including an artificial lake, on which you can hire a small paddle boat and feed its many swimming ducks. Getting There: Take bus15 from Central or 15B from Causeway Bay. Get off at Stubbs Road and follow the road signs, which will lead you towards the trail.

road on the far end of the reservoir. Follow the main road and enjoy the shade of the trees and the view of the water catchment. If you’re feeling adventurous, wander off onto the many side-paths to find streams, bare rock faces and shrubbery that wouldn’t look out of place in the Wild West. If you’ve had enough, you can turn back once you see the main road going into the Shing Mun tunnel, head back into Tai Wai and grab some food—the town is famous for its roasted pigeon restaurants. The entire walk takes roughly two hours at an ambling pace. Getting There: Pick up a taxi from Tai Wai MTR station and get onto the old Tai Po Road. Follow the signs for the Po Fook Memorial Hall, and then take the road that goes past the crematorium on your left. Keep going until you see the reservoir.

Mount Parker Road to Tai Tam Road Part of the Hong Kong Trail (an 11-kilometer extended walking route crossing through the Island), the section that takes you from Mount Parker to Tai Tam Road is generally regarded as one of its easiest parts. Taking approximately an 1.5 hours to complete, this particular trail consists of mostly flat ground and shaded paths. At 532 meters, Mount Parker is the second highest peak on the island, overlooking the Quarry Bay area in the east. One of the few mountains in Hong Kong which has escaped mass residential development, the trail provides a tranquil and comfortable environment for hikers; in particular, a natural canopy of sorts exists because of the abundance of trees acting to shield them from the piercing sun. You will also find a number of rare species of vegetation along the way. Starting on the Mount Parker Road trail and heading through the shielded path, walk slightly uphill towards the direction of Tai Tam by following the signs; you will soon arrive at Tai Tam Reservoir. Carry on along the dam, where you can admire panoramic views of the surrounding hills. The route is soon connected to Tai Tam Reservoir Road, which will take you towards designated barbecue areas. Here you’ll find yourself looking at a small piece of Hong Kong history in a structure known as the “red brick house”—the former sugar factory staff quarters owned by Swire (or Taikoo),

which is also behind the Taikoo Shing residential development at the bottom of Mount Parker. Follow the road that turns into a path leading towards the Tai Tam Intermediate Reservoir, and 20 minutes later you will find yourself reaching the end of this trail. Getting There: The starting point of the Mount Parker Road country trail is a short walk from the Quarry Bay MTR station’s Exit A; otherwise, it can also be reached on a variety of bus routes, including No. 2 from Central and 2A from Wan Chai Pier.

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Advertorial

A series of stories, recommendations and tips on Hong Kong from people in the know. Explore our city based on the travel experiences that interest you and get itineraries for off-the-beaten-path neighborhoods.

Old Meets New

While Hong Kong has no shortage of glitzy high-rises, remnants of the historical city remain. New businesses exist alongside old and run-down tenements have been revitalized into modern urban projects such as museums, restaurants, theaters and shops.

Spotlight on: Sham Shui Po Barely changed since the 1960s, Sham Shui Po is one of Hong Kong’s oldest districts. Gritty and urban, its charms may not be immediately apparent at first glance, but underneath the rough-and-ready exterior is a fascinating area that offers a glimpse into how Hong Kong used to be.

Take a Walk Great efforts have been made to preserve the city’s beautiful older buildings. Take Wan Chai’s Blue House: this rare example of a wooden tenement building, known in Cantonese as a tong lau, dates back to the 1920s and is classed as a Grade 1 Historical Building. Or nearby Tai Lung Fung, a stylish bar decorated in a classic “nostalgic Hong Kong style.”

Hong Kong’s Hollywood Another “old-meets-new” hub is the well-trodden Hollywood Road. Home to antique shops and art galleries, the area is becoming increasingly gentrified. Start in Sheung Wan and walk to Central along this road and you’ll find kitschy souvenirs on sale alongside designer clothes, and traditional tea parlors standing beside European-style cafes and restaurants.

Preserving and Protecting Within such a compact and varied city, there are myriad examples of how Hong Kong’s historic tapestry is etched onto its architectural façade. Dig a little deeper—take a tour, push open those ancient doors —and you’ll uncover how this cultural heritage is being preserved, but also how it’s being renovated and adapted for the city’s future generations.

Full of Life Young artists and designers from all over the city congregate with a passion for life that’s reminscent of a hardworking Hong Kong in the 80s. There’s a sense that you can make anything happen here, such as new concept store 22 Degrees North, a project by three young entrepreneurs who saw the district as an exciting place to showcase their funky wares.

Creative Spirit As a new generation explores the area, Hong Kong is realizing the heritage value of Sham Shui Po and its 100-yearold Chinese medicine practices, tong lau tenements and colonial structures. Revitalized heritage sites and buildings all tap into the district’s vibrant

creativity—the Jao Tsung-I Academy, the Jockey Club Creative Arts Centre, Mei Ho House and the Savannah College of Art and Design are all are worth a visit.

Classical Cuisine Any journey through the neighborhood is not complete without sampling the classic Hong Kong fare available at the distinctive outdoor Hong Kong food stalls, known as dai pai dongs. The classic rice and noodle dishes at these food stalls have come to represent the down-home street-style uniqueness of Hong Kong cuisine. Learn more online at www.DiscoverHongKong.com/ InsidersGuide

Get insights and tips on your iPad from Hong Kong Insider’s Guide

where

the guide

You Art What You Eat At Mandarin Grill + Barâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s annual Art Basel lunch and dinner, indulge in nothing less than edible miniature terracotta warriors; fish that resemble jade pieces; and black forest cake and beef Bourgignon presented as paintings. Chef Uwe Opocensky has whipped up another fantastical menu that blurs the line between food and art. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll want your camera phones ready for this one. Available Mar 2-22, $888 per head for lunch; $1,688 for dinner. 1/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2522-0111.

Art+culture | The Guide

Contemplate This Two cool exhibitions. By Evelyn Lok.

Imagined Worlds The photography fanatics at The Salt Yard present their final exhibition before the art space sadly closes in April. “Illusion” will show the lesser known works by revered Japanese photographer Shoji Ueda, in his last series of the same name. While best known for his monochrome landscape shots of his barren desert home in Japan’s Tottori prefecture, Ueda’s final works are completely contrastive. Featuring imaginary, surreal landscapes made from found objects shot on his kitchen table, they signal a restless experimentation with different photographic techniques even through to the end of his career. Feb 27-Mar 29. The Salt Yard, B1, 4/F, Jone Mult Industrial Building, 169 Wai Yip St., Kwun Tong, 3563-8003, www.thesaltyard.hk. Shoji Ueda

A Moment’s Rest Spring Workshop investigates the concept of stillness with group exhibition “Days Push Off Into Nights”, curated by Christina Li. The international and local artists look at ways to find meaning within the snippets of self-reflection throughout our daily lives. Participating artists include Hongkongers Lee Kit and Magdalen Wong, London and Berlin-based duo Elmgreen & Dragset, Turkish sound artist Cevdet Erek, and New York-based observational artist Moyra Davis.

Magdalen Wong

ART GALLERIES 1a Space — Founded in 1998, 1A Space—located in a former cattle shed—is one of the city’s leading contemporary visual art organizations. An independent, non-profit venture established by a group of local artists, it encourages interaction between the art community and the public through frequent exhibitions, seminars, festivals and cultural-exchange programs. Unit 14, Cattle Depot Artist Village, 63 Ma Tau Kok Rd., To Kwa Wan, 2529-0087. AP Contemporary — AP Contemporary is dedicated to supporting up-and-coming contemporary artists, especially those from developing countries like Brazil, Russia, India and China. Having said that, European and American talents are also represented at this space. 28 Tai Ping Shan St., Sheung Wan, 3105-2118.

Job Koelewijn

Through Apr 26. Spring Workshop, 3/F Remex Centre, 42 Wong Chuk Hang Rd., Aberdeen, 2110-4370, www.springworkshop.org.

Above Second — Open since 2010 in Hong Kong, Above Second adds a slice of urban attitude to the city’s vibrant art scene by showing work from art schools or the streets. With a non-stop lineup of international artists in residencies, you’ll see everything from graffiti to graphic design, pop culture to street art here. 9 First St., Sai Ying Pun, 3483-7950. Agnes b. Librairie Galerie — French fashion chain and long-time supporter of the arts, Agnès B.’s contemporary art space is dedicated to showing the best from Asia and the world. G/F, 118 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2869-5505. Alisan Fine Arts — This well-established gallery has organized hundreds of exhibitions for Chinese artists from around the world. It also mounts exhibitions for overseas venues. Room 2305, Hing Wai Centre, 7 Tin Wan Praya Rd., Aberdeen, 2526-1091.

Asia Society Gallery

Asia Society Gallery — Asia Society Hong Kong’s expansive headquarters are in a beautifully refurbished former storehouse for British artillery and ammunition. Playing host to a myriad of lectures, exhibitions, performances, film screenings, tours, seminars and conferences—almost all of which are open to the public—the Asia Society is a literal treasure trove. 9 Justice Drive, Admiralty, 2103-9511.

You’ll find some of the best art and antique galleries in town along Hong Kong Island’s Hollywood Road.

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Art+culture Galerie Koo — Founded in 2012, Galerie Koo focuses on contemporary art that’s all about beauty and colors, and represents established and rising star artists from across Europe and Asia. 7/F, Vogue Building, 67 Wyndham St., Central, 2525-0331.

Blindspot Gallery

Blindspot Gallery — Blindspot Gallery relocated from its original Central location to this larger industrial warehouse in Aberdeen, on the south side of Hong Kong Island. It’s the setting for large-scale exhibitions, private viewings and special events. 15/F, Po Chai Industrial Building, 28 Wong Chuk Hang Rd., Aberdeen, 2517-6238. Connoisseur Art Gallery — Specializing in contemporary Chinese fine art since 1989, Connoisseur features such acclaimed artists as Paris-based Jia Juan-li, renowned Guangzhou artist Zhang Da-zhong and still life artist Liu Ying-zhao. Shop G3, Chinachem Hollywood Centre, 1 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2868-5358. Contemporary by Angela Li — Perhaps best known for introducing Chinese artists Chen Jiagang and Liao Yibai to the art world, CBAL boasts a lovely space and carefully curated exhibitions. G/F, 248 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 3571-8200. de Sarthe Gallery — Specializing in the sale of 19th and 20th century masters, previous exhibitions have shown the works of art world greats such as Miro, Picasso and Chu Teh-chun, just to name a few. First opening in Paris in 1977 and branching out across the US and Europe, De Sarthe finally opened its first Asian outpost in Hong Kong in 2011. 8/F, Club Lusitano Building, 16 Ice House St., Central, 2167-8896. Erarta Gallery — Opened in November 2014, Erarta gallery Hong Kong is the fifth branch of the global purveyor of Russian contemporary arts, and the very first branch of the gallery group in Asia. Its massive two-story, 300-squaremeter space provides ample opportunity to showcase the more than 150 represented artists from across 30 regions of Russia. 159 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2685-5199. Fabrik Contemporary Art — The gallery that first brought Banksy to Hong Kong’s shores in 2008, Fabrik Contemporary Art, has moved to a permanent space in Sheung Wan. Focusing primarily on Western contemporary art, it houses colorful, pop-inspired works by Banksy, Takashi Murakami, Romero Britto and their first local Hong Kong artist, Kako Peco. Unit 1102, Nam Wo Hong Building, 148 Wing Lok St., Sheung Wan, 2525-4911. Gagosian Gallery — With 14 galleries and counting, the famed Gagosian has chosen Hong Kong as its gateway to Asia. It opened its doors in January 2011 with a bang, featuring an allnew exhibition by Damien Hirst—Gagosian only exhibits the crème de la crème of the art world. 7/F, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2151-0555.

Galerie du Monde — Specializing in modern and contemporary Chinese art, and a champion of up-and-coming talents, Galerie du Monde is known for innovative exhibits that cross mediums: from sculpture to photography, paper media to canvas. Room 108, 1/F, Ruttonjee Centre, 11 Duddell St., Central, 2525-0529. Grotto Fine Art — Curated by Henry Auyeung, a specialist in 20th-century Chinese art history, this gallery exclusively represents local Chinese artists, with a particular interest in the new and avant-garde art forms. You’ll find paintings, sculptures, prints and photography, mixed-media and conceptual installation pieces. 31C-D, 2/F, Wyndham St., Central, 2121-2270. Hanart TZ Gallery — A specialist in contemporary Chinese art, Hanart has exhibited works in oil, ink, print, sculpture, photography and video by internationally recognized mainland, Taiwanese and Hong Kong artists. It offers a wide selection and prices that accommodate almost everyone. Room 407, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2526-9019.

Lehmann Maupin

Lehmann Maupin — With an original branch in New York and a longtime reputation for supporting contemporary art and culture, the Lehmann Maupin Gallery opened its doors here to much fanfare. Architect Rem Koolhaas designed the gallery, making sure to keep the historic columns in the Pedder Building intact. Unit 407, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2530-0025. Lumenvisum — Established in 2007, the nonprofit arts organization Lumenvisum has been dedicated to promoting photographic arts in Hong Kong. It hosts regular themed exhibitions, lectures, photography classes and social events at the gallery space at the JCCAC Arts Village. Shop L2-10, 30 Pak Tin St., Shek Kip Mei, 3177-9159. Mur Nomade — Founded in 2012 by curator Amandine Hervey, Mur Nomade is a curatorial office and gallery based in Aberdeen. It holds regular exhibitions, mainly showing work from local contemporary artists, as well as many site-specific shows all across Hong Kong. Unit 1606, 16/F, Hing Wai Centre, 7 Tin Wan Praya Rd., Aberdeen. New Gallery on Old Bailey — Established in 1999, the gallery aims to promote contemporary Chinese fine art. It exhibits the

work of well-established artists in a variety of styles—namely realism, surrealism, still-lifes, portraiture and modern abstraction. The gallery has an exhibition program and also gives advice to corporate clients about art commissioning and acquisition. 4/F, Kai Tak, 35 Tai Yau St., San Po Kong, 2234-9889. Opera Gallery Hong Kong — This gallery features works by world-famous international artists, including Picasso, Chagall, Salvador Dali, Renoir and Chinese painter Ting Shao-kuang, among others. G-3/F, W Place, 52 Wyndham St., Central, 2810-1208. Pearl Lam Galleries — Pearl Lam galleries has been showing Chinese contemporary art here since 1993, and has gone on to become one of the most well established galleries in Hong Kong. Shop 601-605, 6/F, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central. Picture This Gallery — The city’s largest affordable-art gallery specializes in posters, antique maps, prints and early photographs of Hong Kong and China. It also carries antiquarian and secondhand books about Asia, first editions of modern literature, prints and photographs for children’s rooms and sporting prints. The staff here can also frame your fragile old artwork. Shop 1308, 13/F, 9 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2525-2820. Plum Blossoms Gallery — Recognized for its exhibitions of contemporary Asian art as well as an outstanding collection of museum-quality ancient textiles, Plum Blossoms is an established platform for the promotion of both ancient and modern arts. 14/F, Cheung Tak Building, 30 Heung Yip Rd., Wong Chuk Hang, 2521-2189. Puerta Roja — Puerta Roja was established to promote Latin American art and artists to the Hong Kong audience. Drawings, etchings, glasswork and sculptures are all featured here. Shop A, G/F, Wai Yue Building, 15-17 New St., Sheung Wan, 2803-0332. Red Square Gallery — Red Square Gallery is a window into contemporary Russian art. Expanding into four branches, the gallery is dedicated to bringing creative and dynamic artwork to Hong Kong. Shop 2, G/F, Stanley Plaza, 1A Wong Nai Chung Rd., Happy Valley, 2838-0040. Sin Sin Fine Art — The gallery represents and promotes mainland and Southeast Asian artists and photographers, with a focus on Chinese, Indonesian and Thai works of art. G/F, 53-54 Sai St., Sheung Wan, 2858-5072. The Cat Street Gallery — Showcasing contemporary and modern art in a variety of mediums, Cat Street exhibits emerging and established artists from around the world. 222 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2291-0006. The Popsy Room — Jennifer Chung, the founder of this unique art space, firmly believes that art should be experienced through all our senses. Hence all exhibitions, featuring local and international artists, cater to vision, sound, smell, and particularly taste. Look out for its private art and food themed dining events. G/F, 30 Upper Lascar Row, Sheung Wan, 2234-6711. M ARCH 2 015 I WHERE H ONG KONG 19

Art+culture | The Guide White Cube — One of the world’s top contemporary galleries opened its first non-UK outpost in Hong Kong in March of 2012. The gallery represents many members of the Young British Artists (YBA) movement, who are known for their shock factor, confrontational nature and use of disposable materials—for instance, Damien Hirst’s famous dead shark suspended in formaldehyde. 50 Connaught Rd., Central, 2592-2000.

MUSEUMS

F11 Photographic Museum

F11 Photographic Museum — This museum, housed in a three-story restored Art Deco building, is dedicated purely to the art of photography. Following a strong debut in 2014 with world-renowned works by Elliot Erwitt, the museum aims to show pivotal works from international and regional greats, plus up-and-coming photographers. Check out its vintage Leica camera exhibit and library on the third floor. Appointments are essential, and include a free guided tour. 11 Yuk Sau St., Happy Valley, 6516-1122. Flagstaff House Museum of Teaware — Located in Flagstaff House, the oldest surviving colonial building in the territory and once home of the commander-in-chief of British forces in Hong Kong, the museum houses a prized Asian teaware collection. It’s also home to Lock Cha Tea House, which serves myriad varieties of tea and delicate vegetarian dim sum in a cute Chinese-style setting. Hong Kong Park, 10 Cotton Tree Drive, Central, 2869-0690. Hong Kong 3D Museum — Whip out those selfie sticks and get your cameras ready: a visit to the HK3D museum is all about playing with its numerous trick-of-the-eye exhibits, where you can explore Hong Kong’s culture. Here you can jump into a panda enclosure or cling precariously onto the Bank of China tower, among many other fun props and poses. 1/F, Hilton Tower, 96 Granville Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2721-9720.

Hong Kong Film Archive

Hong Kong Film Archive — A repository of all things related to Hong Kong films, the Archive contains lots of movies, conservation labs, a resource center, exhibition hall and a cinema. Closed Thursdays. 1/F, 50 Lei King Rd., Sai Wan Ho, 2739-2139. 20 W H E R E HONG KONG I M ARCH 2 015

HONG KONG HERITAGE MUSEUM — This modern museum is devoted to preserving the city’s historical, art and cultural heritage. There are Permanent exhibitions on the New Territories and Cantonese opera, plus a Children’s Discovery Gallery of natural and cultural history, including toy-making. Closed Tuesdays and public holidays. 1 Man Lam Rd., Sha Tin, 2180-8188. Hong Kong Maritime Museum — This museum holds semi-permanent and special exhibitions tracing Hong Kong’s growth into a major world port, and the contributions made by China and the West to the development of ships, maritime exploration, trade and naval warfare. Central Ferry Pier 8, Man Kwong St., Central, 3713-2500. Hong Kong Museum of Art — One of the city’s largest museums houses fine examples of ancient Chinese art from the Han to the Qing dynasties. The exhibition galleries regularly showcase contemporary and international works. Closed Thursdays. 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2724-9042. Hong Kong Museum of Coastal Defence — Don’t let the name put you off, this is a great little museum. Set in a 19th-century British fort with spectacular views of the Lei Yue Mun channel, it features the original restored batteries and camouflaged cannons under a new tented canopy. The museum also houses artifacts and costumes from Hong Kong’s military past. A gentle trail leads to the sea, giving a sense of how the British patrolled for pirates and other enemies of the colony. Closed Thursdays. 175 Tung Hei Rd., Shau Kei Wan, 2569-1500. Hong Kong Museum of History — This fascinating museum explores 6,000 years of Hong Kong history, from the Neolithic to the post-war period, with recreations of prehistoric scenes and the early colonial era. But it’s the reconstruction of a post-war street, complete with tram and traveling Chinese opera company, that really grabs the attention. Closed Tuesdays, except public holidays. 100 Chatham Rd. South, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2724-9042. Hong Kong Railway Museum — This small, picturesque museum is dedicated to the history of Hong Kong’s railway system. It’s situated in a former train station, a charming 1913 building with a traditional tiled roof now declared a historical monument. The permanent exhibition includes photographs, old coaches, samples of tracks and a full-sized model of an electric train compartment. Closed Tuesdays. Tai Po Market, 13 Shung Tak St., Tai Po, 2653-3455. Hong Kong Science Museum — This is great for kids, thanks to about 500 permanent exhibits that explore all aspects of science and technology, including robotics, virtual reality and transportation. Best of all, about 70 percent of the displays are interactive, meaning the little ones can play with them. A popular feature is the 20-meter-high energy machine. Closed Thursdays. 2 Science Museum Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2732-3232.

Hong Kong Space Museum — Explore the final frontier at the Space Museum and learn all about astronomy and space technology. One of the largest planetariums in the world features daily Omnimax screenings and Sky shows. Closed Tuesdays. 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2721-0226. Law Uk Folk Museum — Law Uk, which means “Law’s House,” named after its original owner, is an 18th-century, Qing-dynasty Hakka village house, complete with furnishings and artifacts. Free admission. Closed Thursdays. 14 Kut Shing St., Chai Wan, 2896-7006. Lei Cheng Uk Han Tomb Museum — Housing a 2,000-year-old tomb with four chambers, the Lei Cheng Uk Han Tomb Museum is one of the city’s most fascinating monuments. Closed Thursday. 41 Tonkin St., Sham Shui Po, 2386-2863.

Liang Yi Museum

Liang Yi Museum — Liang Yi is dedicated to promoting Chinese antique arts: you’ll find over 300 pieces of treasured furniture, ceramics and knickknacks here—they’re some of the best examples from the Ming and Qing dynasties that still remain. Catch Liang Yi’s distinguished lectures held on every first Tuesday of the month. Closed Sundays, Mondays, and public holidays. Admission is $200 with a guided tour. 181-199 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2806-8280. Museum of Medical Sciences — Located in an elegant brick building, this museum charts the development of medicine in the city. It was the first to focus on both western and traditional Chinese approaches to healthcare. Closed Mondays. 2 Caine Lane, Mid-Levels, 2549-5123. Police Museum — This interesting little museum has more than 600 artifacts relating to the Hong Kong Police, from the force’s inception in 1844 to today. It’s split into four sections including a gallery devoted to triad societies, the equivalent of gangs. Closed on public holidays. 27 Coombe Rd., The Peak, 2849-7019. Sam Tung Uk Museum — Offering a fascinating insight into Hong Kong’s past, Sam Tung Uk (three rows of dwelling) is a restored 200-year-old walled village. The 2,000-square-meter museum includes an ancestral hall, two rows of side houses, an exhibition hall and a lecture hall. It contains displays of period furniture, handicrafts and agricultural equipment. Closed Tuesdays. 2 Kwu Uk Lane, Tsuen Wan, 2411-2001.

Hong Kong

apr il 2013

the complet e guide to

Where to go? Where Hong Kong’s eBook version is your monthly digital tour guide to Hong Kong, perfect for city-dwellers and friends and visitors alike. From the coolest new restaurants to the can’t-miss sightseeing spots, taking an issue of Where Hong Kong on the go is like putting a local Hongkonger in your back pocket. Subscribe to our e-book now at http://hk-magazine.com/user/register

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ART & Antiques Map Presented by our arts and antique partners

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Bonnie Lai Antiquities With 30 years of experience, Bonnie Lai Antiquities embraces different types of Chinese art. Specializing in early pottery, bronze, stone sculpture, ceramics and porcelain. Pieces are tested and authenticated by Oxford Authentication Ltd. It is a perfect place to pick up a piece of history. G/F, 168A Hollywood Rd, Central, Hong Kong www.bonnielaiantiquities.com, (852) 2559 7338

Parkview Art Hong Kong This new artistic venture by the Parkview Group has the mission to promote contemporary art in Hong Kong and overseas while building on its existing network of relationships with artists, collectors and art lovers in China and abroad to encourage dialogue between the artists, art and viewer, East and West. Shop 6, Upper G/F, Sunrise House 27 Old Bailey Street, Central info@parkviewarthk.com, (852) 2413 0028

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159 Hollywood Rd, Central, Hong Kong www.erartagalleries.com , (852) 2685 5199

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Erarta Galleries (established in St. Petersburg, New York, London, Zurich and Hong Kong) is the biggest global project promoting Russian Contemporary Art. The gallery brings a different collection created by more than 170 artists from over 20 regions of the country to the Hong Kong art enthusiasts.

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Galerie Koo Located in the heart of Central, focusing on contemporary art. The gallery represents established and emerging talented artists from Europe to Asia. The gallery aims to promote contemporary abstract arts with beauty and colours to art lovers of all levels domestically and internationally. 7/F, Vogue Bldg, 67 Wyndham St, Central, Hong Kong, www.galeriekoo.com, (852) 2525 0331

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Connoisseur Art Gallery Located along Hollywood Road in Central, Connoisseur Art Gallery specializes in collectible realist and figurative art by Chinese master artists. It also represents internationally acclaimed Swedish artist Dorina Mocan and French artist Christian Gaillard. G3, Chinacham Hollywood Ctr, 1 Hollywood Rd, Central, Hong Kong www.connoisseur-art.com, (852) 2868 5358

Connoisseur Contemporary Connoisseur Contemporary, the sister gallery of Connoisseur Art Gallery, shows paintings and photography works by both emerging and established artists from China, Japan and Chile.

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Prestige Crafts Oi Ling Antiques Oi Ling Antiques is one of the foremost dealers in high-end Chinese antiquities, including furniture, pottery, stone pieces and selected bronzes. Visitors will be warmly welcomed and will find in-depth knowledge and expertise, combined with authentication certificates to guarantee peace of mind. 58 Hollywood Rd, Central, Hong Kong www.oilingantiques.com, (852) 2815 942

Hong Kong Artistic Sculptor Mr. Chu Chung Shing is the internationally known founder of PRESTIGE CRAFTS. Mr. Chu has been concentrating on Mammoth tusk sculpture. He has contributed to the community by producing a huge quantity of exquisite works of art of various themes, and is rated first in the trade. Shop A, G/F, Elegance Crt, 184 Hollywood Rd, Central, Hong Kong www.prestige-crafts.com, (852) 2541 8840

MARCH 2015 I WHERE H ONG KONG 23

dining | The Guide

Snack Attack Check out these dim sum halls for the quintessential Hong Kong experience. By Adele Wong

Above and Beyond A sky-high Cantonese resto offering splendid views, Above and Beyond is a cozy space to chow down on some quality dim sum. To please Instagrammers, there’s a bit of fancy western influence in the presentation of some of the dishes, from starters to desserts.

Social Place

28/F, Hotel Icon, 17 Science Museum Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3400-1318.

Fook Lam Moon This tycoon’s diner is still a firm favorite among the locals. The prices might not be cheap, but you do get your money’s worth in terms of the quality of the dishes. The spring rolls are fried to perfection, the char siu is juicy, and the mango puddings are made with real fruit. Multiple locations, including Shop 8, 1/F, Kimberley Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-0286.

Above and Beyond

Dynasty

Maxim’s Palace City Hall

Social Place

Dynasty

This Central institution is grand, packed, and the epitome of the yum cha experience. Hot bamboo steamers stacked on top of each other are rolled out on metal trolleys zig-zagging across the room. If you don’t see what you want, wave down one of the servers and they might be able to secure your dish straight from the kitchen. Because Maxim’s is such a popular establishment, be prepared to queue during lunch hours and weekends.

This quirky venue serves dim sum with a twist: for instance, steamed buns look like wrinkled mushrooms, and slices of bone-in chicken are served in glass jars. The venue itself looks nothing like the traditional Cantonese banquet halls—instead, you’re getting long, rectangular communal tables and cool-toned furniture.

This age-old institution has recently undergone a revamp, and now you’ll find sophisticated carpets, tasteful artwork on the walls and dark and handsome furniture. The famous lipsmacking char siu is still on the menu, complete with the perfect lean-to-fat ratio.

2/F, Low Block, City Hall, 5 Edinburgh Place, Central, 2521-1303.

2/F, The L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3568-9666.

3/F, Renaissance Harbour View Hotel Hong Kong, 1 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, 2584-6971.

The Grand Stage

Lin Heung Tea House

A second-floor dim sum hall in the beautiful Western Market building, The Grand Stage is frequented as much for its dim sum as for its ambience. High ceilings, brick walls and indoor lampposts give the restaurant a vaguely colonial vibe. The food, from the steamed beancurd rolls to the deep-fried tofu, is solid and satisfying.

Lin Heung Tea House on Wellington Street is for those of us who are nostalgic for the good ol’ days. It looks like it hasn’t changed much over the decades—including the positively ancient wooden tables and chairs. Diners are encouraged to rinse their own bowls and utensils at the table with hot tea, and dishes are served in bamboo steamers darkened with age.

2/F, Western Market, 323 Des Voeux Rd. Central, Sheung Wan, 2815-2311. 24 WH E R E HONG KONG I M ARCH 2 015

160-164 Wellington St., Central, 2544-4556.

dining

New and Noted Two new restaurants. By Adele Wong

Master of the House On Lan Street in Lan Kwai Fong is on fire. Enter Lai Bun Fu , the latest restaurant on the block. LBF’s chef Chung Kin-leung, who used to be Government House’s executive chef, decided that cooking for the likes of US presidents (George Bush) and UK prime ministers (the late Margaret Thatcher) isn’t nearly as exciting as running his own restaurant. Lucky us! Expect fancified versions of prawn toast (with foie gras!), minced chicken soup with bird’s nest, and all sorts of classic Cantonese delicacies. Lai Bun Fu

Lai Bun Fu

5/F, 18 On Lan St., Central, 2564-3868.

We Got Beef

Crafty Cow

Don’t try to order anything other than beef at Crafty Cow, Upper Station Street’s latest offering. The craft beer slash Japanese wagyu gastropub is headed by chef Basil Yu, who boasts of being a former sous-chef at Amber. Besides the usual suspect (beef), exotic items like cow testes and Sichuan-spiced bone marrow also make an appearance on the menu. The beef itself will also be served in updated formats, for example being wrapped up in sleek steamed Chinese buns. 3-3A Upper Station St., Sheung Wan, 2915-8988.

Central & Sheung Wan

Restaurants list. 7/F, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen’s Rd., Central, 2132-0066. BEP Vietnamese Kitchen — Vietnamese $$ BÊP is a comfortable, no-fuss SoHo restaurant from the team behind popular Vietnamese restaurant Nha Trang—offering up an open kitchen, good service and excellent food. LG/F, 9-11 Staunton St., near Shelley Street, Central, 2522-7533. Aberdeen Street Social

208 Duecento Otto

208 Duecento Otto — Italian $$$ At the buzzing downstairs bar, perch and nibble on 208’s delicious pizza and snacks. Low dark wooden ceilings, steel pillars and marble table tops give 208 a trendy air while distinctive blue and white tiles add a cool edge. 208 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2549-0208. 81/2 Otto E Mezzo Bombana — Italian $$$$$ Chef Umberto Bombana’s unique brand of contemporary Italian cuisine is offered in the regularly changing decadent lunch and dinner sets (though an à la carte menu is also available). Shop 202, Alexandra House, 18 Chater Rd., Central, 2537-8859.

Aberdeen Street Social — British $$$$ Michelin-starred chef Jason Atherton and entrepreneur Yenn Wong collaborate for the third time to launch Aberdeen Street Social, bringing their take on modern British cuisine to the hipsters of Hong Kong. G/F, JPC Building, PMQ, 35 Aberdeen St., Central, 2866-0300. Agnes B. Le Pain Grille - IFC Mall — French $$$ Enjoy a sophisticated French meal at this flagship Agnes B. restaurant with exquisite interiors. Shop 3089-3097B, 3/F, 8 Finance St., Central, 2805-0798. Amber — French $$$$ Chef Richard Ekkebus and his team create classic French dishes that are given an innovative twist. This restaurant is consistently included in the World’s 50 Best

Bibo — French $$$$$ Between the colorful chaos of authentic contemporary art, personable service and opulent menu, Bibo is a strong contender for one of Sheung Wan’s top tables. 163 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2956-3188. Bistecca — Italian $$$$ This rustic LKF haunt is an Italian-style steakhouse with a touch of charm, and a whole lot of beef. 2/F, Grand Progress Building, 15-16 Lan Kwai Fong, Central, 2525-1308. Chachawan — Thai $$$ Chachawan serves up Issan-style Thai dishes that truly pack a punch. Try the salt-baked whole seabass and finish with some salted coconut dumplings. The bar also brews a mean cocktail. 206 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2549-0020. M ARCH 2 015 I WHERE H ONG KONG 25

dining | The Guide China Tang — Chinese $$$$ Following the success of Island Tang and Kowloon Tang, Sir David Tang continues with China Tang, offering top delicacies from Beijing, Sichuan and Guangdong in a luxurious setting. Shop 411-413, 4/F, Landmark Atrium, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, Central, 2522-2148.

Chôm Chôm

Chom Chom — Vietnamese $$ It seems a bold move, to not serve pho at a place that calls itself Vietnamese—but it works. Diners are squeezed into a posh but tiny space that’s mostly eaten up by a large L-shaped bar. Beer and Vietnamese street foods are the two key elements at this new space. G/F, Block A, 58-60 Peel St., Central, 2810-0850. Comfort — Fusion $$$ Comfort is an eastmeets-west type of resto, with beef brisket curry co-existing alongside English sausages and gravy. One more item, not to be missed: a hoisin-sauce-glazed pork belly bao (steamed bun). 5/F, Grand Progress Building, 15-16 Lan Kwai Fong, Central, . Fatty Crab — American $$$ Situated halfway up Old Bailey Street, this bar/resto offers PanAsian cuisine, specialty cocktails and creations galore—including the mighty Pickleback shot. 11-13 Old Bailey St., Central, 2521-2033.

La Vache — French $$ Inspired by the Le Relais de l’Entrecôte chain from Paris, La Vache by Black Sheep Restaurants is a brasserie-style space that specializes in a classic French steak. 48 Peel St., Central, 2880-0248. Le Port Parfume — French $$$ Le Port Parfume sources its fish and other marine creatures from Hong Kong waters. Expect wild-caught seafood, cooked Frenchstyle. Shop C, 6-10 Kau U Fong, Central, 2824-3018. Lei Garden — Chinese $$ Although there are many branches of this chain in Hong Kong, all serving excellent Cantonese cuisine, the IFC location is one of the branches with a Michelin star. The surroundings are cleanly contemporary but the food is divinely authentic. Don’t miss the signature crispy roasted pork. Shop 3007-3011, 3/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2295-0238. Linguini Fini — Italian $$ It’s all about bold flavor, fresh ingredients and a casual dining environment that doesn’t cut corners on quality. Linguini Fini uses locally grown veggies and fresh meat cuts in its yummy homestyle Italian dishes. 49 Elgin St., Central, 2387-6338. Lung King Heen — Cantonese $$$ The xiaolongbao (pork dumplings) at this threeMichelin-starred restaurant come with little handles so they reach your mouth without breaking. The steamed shrimp and scallop dumplings with a topping of XO sauce are pure magic. 4/F, Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong, 8 Finance St., 3196-8888.

Ho Lee Fook

The Grand Stage — Chinese $ Located atop the colonial-style Western Market, this is a cavernous high-ceilinged restaurant that serves excellent dim sum. 2/F, Western Market, 323 Des Voeux Rd. Central, Sheung Wan, 2915-2311. Tsui Wah Restaurant — Chinese $ One of Hong Kong’s best and busiest quick-service restaurants, Tsui Wah offers good, innovative Chinese food at reasonable prices. Its more successful culinary creations include fishessence soup and pork cartilage with noodles. 15-19 Wellington St., Central, 2525-6338.

Causeway Bay

An Nam

An Nam — Vietnamese $$ An Nam serves Vietnamese-style dishes in an exquisitely designed setting. Diners can savor fresh seafood and roast meats as well as traditional delicacies from the region of Hue. 4/F, Lee Gardens One, 33 Hysan Ave., Causeway Bay, 2787-3922. Din Tai Fung — Taiwanese $ The xiaolongbao at chain restaurant Din Tai Fung serve the most delectable soup-filled pork dumplings in the city, with delicately fine skin and succulent, juicy meat. Shop 3-9, G/F, 68 Yee Wo St., Causeway Bay, 3160-8998. Gonpachi — Japanese $$$ The glorious Tokyo establishment that inspired one of the signature killing scenes in ‘Kill Bill’ has spawned a branch in Hong Kong. Keep in mind that Gonpachi is not a specialist restaurant. It serves everything: sushi, grilled goods, tempura, rice boxes and noodles. 4/F, The Lee Gardens, 33 Hysan Ave., Causeway Bay, 2787-3688.

Ho Lee Fook — Chinese $$ HLF is a cheeky, modern take on Chinese cuisine, courtesy of Aussie chef Jowett Yu (of Ms. G’s and Mr. Wong in Sydney). The venue consists of a ground floor open kitchen decked out in mahjong tiles, and a dark and funky basement dining room. LG-G/F, 1-5 Elgin St., Central, 2810-0860.

Mott 32 — Cantonese $$$$ Mott 32 is restaurant group Maximal Concepts’ first foray into Chinese cuisine, and like its other restaurants, it’s dark, dramatic and exclusive. B/F, Standard Chartered Building, 4-4A Des Voeux Rd. Central, 2885-8688.

Paradise Dynasty — Chinese $$ Paradise Dynasty is a spacious and popular xiaolongbao restaurant whose claim to fame is its multicolored multi-flavored dumplings. Expect to queue. 6/F, Lee Theatre, 99 Percival St., Causeway Bay, 2177-0903.

Jashan — Indian $$ Jashan offers an extensive Indian menu, delicious food and reliable service, with clay oven roasted king prawns and flavorful curries topping the menu. A greatvalue lunch buffet is available on weekdays. 1/F, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Rd., Central, 3105-5300.

Mrs. Pound — Southeast Asian $$$ Built as a fictional hideaway for a burlesque dancer, Mrs. Pound is disguised as a chop shop, with a special stamp button you have to press to open the door. But that’s the only subtle thing about this restaurant. Ming Fat House, 6 Pound Lane, Sheung Wan, 3426-3949.

Jimmy’s Kitchen Central — Western $$$ The old-school international classics that have kept Jimmy’s Kitchen popular for over 80 years continue to impress the crowds. For an added bit of romantic nostalgia, order the famed flaming baked Alaska to end the meal. Basement, South China Building, 1-3 Wyndham St., Central, 2526-5293.

Social Place — Dim sum $ You’re not gonna be getting regular har gau and siu mai at this Cantonese diner. Instead, it’s all about the open-faced bao, stews in adorable pastel pots and truffle- and shitake-flavored buns that actually look like earthy Chinese-style dried mushrooms. 2/F, The L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, Central, 3568-9666.

Seasons by Olivier E — French $$$ Chef Olivier Elzer, formerly of L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon, now has his own brand in a sprawling space at Lee Gardens Two. It’s part of a new breed of restaurants trying to tone down the uppity factor of fine-dining with a laissez-faire, casual approach. 3/F, Lee Gardens Two, 2-38 Yun Ping Rd., Causeway Bay, 2505-6228.

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Mott 32

Shun Kee Typhoon Shelter — Chinese $$$ Shun Kee is a collection of sampans close to the Causeway Bay Typhoon Shelter, serving mostly classic typhoon shelter-style seafood (read: steamed or fried). Causeway Bay Typhoon Shelter, Causeway Bay, 8112-0075.

Address: Ground Floor, 1E Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong. (Opposite the Holiday Inn Golden Mile Hotel’s Mody Road entrance) Telephone: 2368-0040, 2723-0056 Email: laelite@netvigator.com 九龍尖沙咀麼地道1E地下 (金域假日酒店麼地道入口對面)

dining | The Guide

Brunch Crunch Two indulgent options. By Adele Wong

Go With the Flow It’s the perfect time to frequent Quayside with its posh outdoor terrace. Dig into a healthy spread of greens at the salad bar before choosing an egg/pasta/pizza/barbecue dish for the main course. Prices range from $168-258 per person, and for an extra $220 you can enjoy free-flow prosecco and other beverages for up to two hours. Brunch is available Sundays from 11am-6pm. The Envoy

G/F, Fleet Arcade, Fenwick Pier, Wan Chai, 2661-6708.

Classy Classics The Envoy at The Pottinger hotel is offering brunch classics like eggs Florentine and pancakes from $98-148 per dish every Sunday. Patrons can also choose champagne, champagne cocktails, or an indulgent milkshake to go with their meal. Child-friendly options also available. Available every Sunday from 11am-3pm. Quayside

The Envoy

3/F, The Pottinger Hong Kong, 74 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2169-3311.

The Penthouse by Harlan Goldstein — Western $$$$ The Penthouse, occupying 6,800 sq. ft, is now chef Goldstein’s fourth establishment. This restaurant showcases handcrafted pastas and a Josper Grill. 30/F, Soundwill Plaza II Midtown, 1-29 Tung Lung St., Causeway Bay, 2970 0828. Bo Innovation

Wan Chai 22 Ships — Spanish $$$ British chef Jason Atherton’s 22 Ships, named for its address, is a sparsely decorated tapas bar with unfinished floors that serves small plates with a modern twist. Since it takes no reservations, the intimate venue is always packed. 22 Ship St., Wan Chai, 2555-0722.

Bo Innovation

Bao Wow — Chinese $ Bao Wow is a sizzling little fast food diner just a block from hipster Ship Street, serving fluffy Chinese-style tacos wrapped in steamed Chinese buns in relatively affordable combos. Shop 2, 28 Tai Wong St. East, Wan Chai, 2528-9505. 28 WH E R E HONG KONG I M ARCH 2 015

Bo Innovation — Asian $$$ ’Demon chef’ Alvin Leung is known for his innovative takes on Asian cuisine. Steamed soup dumplings get transformed into different shapes, textures and sizes, and many other things don’t look like they’re supposed to at this three Michelinstarred restaurant. 2/F, J Residence, 60 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2850-8371. Kin’s Kitchen — Cantonese $$ Kin’s Kitchen is a world away from the sweet ‘n’ sour, MSG-laden fare you might generally associate with affordable Cantonese food. Picking up secret recipes during his journeys in China, the well-traveled food writer Lau Kin-wai gives the local cuisine a contemporary makeover. 5/F, W Square, 314-324 Hennessy Rd., Wan Chai, 2571-0913. Qi House of Sichuan — Sichuan $$$ The menu here covers everything from the standard mala dishes to sweet and sour fish and even Kung Pao chicken. 2/F, J Senses, 60 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2527-7117.

Restaurant Akrame — French $$$ Restaurant Akrame on Ship Street is headed by chef Akrame Benallal, of the rave-reviewed, two-Michelin-starred Akrame in Paris. It offers a gentle glimpse into a new generation of chefs who continue to pay tribute to classical French techniques, but are at the same time actively carving out their own paths. 9 Ship St., Wan Chai, 2528-5068.

The Pawn

The Pawn — British $$$ Dig into modern British fare that’s meant for sharing at this newly renovated restaurant in a heritage building. 62 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2866-3444. Xi Yan Private Dining Restaurant — Cantonese $$$ Xi Yan is a private kitchen that blends traditional Chinese cuisine with pan-Asian flavors. After the wild success of this restaurant, proprietor celebrity chef Jacky Yu replicated his winning formula with branches around town—but come here for the original experience. 3/F, 83 Wan Chai Rd., Wan Chai, 2575-6966.

dining

Tsim Sha Tsui Dong Lai Shun — Chinese $$$ Established in Beijing since 1903, this restaurant serves high-end Beijing and Huaiyang cuisine. B2/F, The Royal Garden, 69 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2733-2020.

NO RULES, JUST RIGHT. ‘GO OUTBACK’ TONIGHT!

Fook Lam Moon — Cantonese $$$$ Devotees swear this fine diner serves the best Cantonese cuisine in the world, and the food is pretty darn good—with prices to match. Something of a throwback to old Hong Kong, it’s been the go-to for Chinese specialties for more than five decades. 53-59 Kimberley Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-0286. Hugo’s — Western $$$$ It’s all about oldfashioned elegance and classic western dishes here—from Australian, Japanese, French and Irish steaks to French lobster and everything in between. Hyatt Regency Hong Kong, Tsim Sha Tsui, 18 Hanoi Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3721-7733. Inakaya — Japanese $$$$$ Inakaya boasts the highest and prettiest robatayaki counter in the city. Plates and plates of colorful vegetables, meats and seafood are spread out in front of the patrons and grilled to order. Shop A, 101/F, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2972-2666. La Saison by Jacques Barnachon — French $$$$ This cross-harbor gem is the Hong Kong outlet for celebrated French chef Jacques Barnachon of the Michelin-starred L’Etang du Moulin in Bonnetage, France. Protégé Florian Muller is at the helm of La Saison, whipping up classic French dishes that are as decadent and delectable as they come. 2/F, The Cameron, 33 Cameron Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2789-8000.

Causeway Bay 2/F, JP Plaza, 22-36 Paterson St. Reservations: 2881 8012 Wanchai 1/F, De Fenwick, 8-12 Fenwick St. Reservations: 3101 0418

www.outback.com.hk

Whampoa Shop 3A, G/F, Site 4, Whampoa Garden, Hunghom Reservations: 2766 2823

Tuen Mun Tsuen Wan

Whampoa Tsim Sha Tsui Wanchai

Tsim Sha Tsui East Taikoo Causeway Bay

Tsim Sha Tsui Shop 1, Level 2, 26 Nathan Rd. Reservations: 3741 1728

Tsim Sha Tsui East Shops 23-28, Upper Ground Floor, Tsim Sha Tsui Centre, 66 Mody Rd. Reservations: 2311 7800 Tsuen Wan Shops 3-5, Level 2, Discovery Park Shopping Centre, 398 Castle Peak Rd. Reservations: 2940 0682 Taikoo Shops G9-G10, G/F, Kornhill Plaza, 1 Kornhill Rd. Reservations: 2560 8246 Tuen Mun Shop 2016-2017, 2/F, Phase 1, Tuen Mun Town Plaza Reservations: 2426 3918

Spring Deer — Chinese $ At this loud, busy establishment that’s starting to show its age, you feel the quasi-nostalgic vibe as soon as you walk in, and it really makes the experience. Get the Peking duck. 1/F, 42 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-4012. T’ang Court — Cantonese $$$$ This is a gem, serving some of the city’s finest Cantonese cuisine in imperial surroundings. 1/F, The Langham, Hong Kong, 8 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2375-1133. Whisk — European $$$ Whisk is sophistication with a hip edge. It’s all about contempo-European cuisine made with the freshest seasonal ingredients, and the menu changes regularly. Level 5, The Mira Hong Kong, 118-130 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-5999.

Price Guide $ Less than $200 $$ $200-$399 $$$ $400-$599

$$$$ $600-$799 $$$$$ $800 and up

Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course and dessert. Prices do not include bottles of wine unless stated. M ARCH 2 015 I WHERE HONG KONG 29

Taste of the city B rought to Y ou by O ur R estaurant Partners

Jumbo Kingdom An internationally renowned tourist attraction, Jumbo Kingdom, situated in Aberdeen Typhoon Shelter, is a significant landmark in Hong Kong. It provides top quality food and services for the tourists. Jumbo Kingdom is best known for its fresh seafood, traditional Cantonese cuisine and dim sum. Numerous international dignitaries and celebrities have visited over the years. The restaurant has also served as a film set for many blockbusters. It is more than just a restaurant, also a modern complex of fine-dining, sightseeing and cultural attractions. At the Jumbo Kingdom, we have a selection of banquet halls and multi-function rooms capable of accommodating more than 700 guests. Our second-to-none expertise in banqueting and excellent food quality makes Jumbo Kingdom the best venue for banquets, meetings, seminars and all other special events. We provide free shuttle ferry at Aberdeen Promenade Pier and Wong Chuk Hang Shum Wan Pier, just 15 minutes away from Central and Causeway Bay. Shum Wan Pier Drive, Wong Chuk Hang, Aberdeen, 2553-9111, www.jumbokingdom.com.

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Sagano Hotpot All-you-can-eat Japanese Hotpot Visit Sagano to dig into unlimited servings of renowned Iwate Hakkinton pork and Kagoshima A4 Wagyu beef, along with a choice of shabu shabu ox bone broth or Sukiyaki sweet soya sauce broth. The set menu also comes with seasonal appetiser, assorted sashimi, and more, and is available from Tuesday to Saturday at dinner period only until end of February. 1/F, New World Millennium Hong Kong Hotel, 72 Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui East, 2313-4215.

LaVilla Restaurant & Bar LaVilla is a stylish, contemporary restaurant renowned for romantic dinners, but also for birthday parties, wedding celebrations, private events…It offers a wide range of Continental cuisine, specializing in Seafood and Grills. It prides itself in providing the freshest and finest ingredients in order to realize for you the best culinary experience. Food is imported, with first a wide selection of fresh oysters from France, a great Slow Cooked US Prime Rib Eye Beef, Iberico Ham from Spain, Chilean Sea Bass and on and on…This is to ensure that your dining experience remains unforgettable. It also offers a wide range of wines to compliment your meal at LaVilla. At night, you can enjoy one of the hottest live bands in Hong Kong. Playing everything from R&B to rock, soul to pop, blues to progressive, the Band moves with ease and dexterity.

Scrumptious weekend brunch at Cafe Deco Pizzeria The new branch of Cafe Deco Pizzeria in Sheung Wan is brightening up laid-back urbanites’ weekends with its delightful weekend brunch! At just $228 per adult and $128 per child (aged 6-11), diners can enjoy an antipasti buffet, as well as fluffy signature pancakes from 11am to 4pm. Add $20 to $40 for a delectable main course, or add $150 per person for free-flow house wines, Prosecco, Rosé and soft drinks for the whole 5 hours! Shop 3-4, G/F, Tower 125, 11 Po Yan Street, Sheung Wan, 2559 4100, www.cafedecogroup.com.

G28 Tsim Sha Tsui Centre, 66 Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui East, 2724 0707, www.lavilla.hk.

M ARCH 2 015 I WHERE HONG KONG 31

Drinks | The Guide

Pop That Bottle Drink up at the Grand Hyatt’s newly revamped champagne bar. By Andrea Lo

The buzz: The Grand Hyatt Champagne Bar has undergone a complete revamp, although it remains as classy as ever. It’s a world away from the neon lights of Lockhart Road and fast becoming a go-to among the post-work, pre-dinner and theater crowds, thanks to the neighboring Academy for Performing Arts. The décor: The original circular bar remains—but it’s now lit by a huge chandelier. The sophistication continues with ton of drapery and a huge mirror near the entrance that adds a touch of drama. But it’s not all show—you’ll want to sink into the cushy seating while watching live jazz performances.+

121BC

121BC — 121BC is a wine lover’s heaven. Enjoy top-of-the-range wines sourced from Italy paired with a rustic Italian menu, at 121BC. 42-44 Peel St., Central 2395-0200 Alchemy — Alchemy is the perfect antidote to the crowds of Wyndham. In addition to the lounge bar, it also boasts a dining-in-the-dark experience in the basement. The concept is nothing new, but now’s your chance to give it a go. Seafood dishes are served in the lounge, as

The drinks: You’ll find a selection of Grandes Marques bubbles—a collection of major champagne houses—on the menu, as well as other labels from independent producers across the French region. The highlight of the extensive menu is the Champagne Flight deal. For $300, you get to try three glasses of top-notch bubbles. The menu’s designed to start you off with something light and fruity, gradually going stronger. Meanwhile, the bar’s wine ambassador is happy to talk you through the flavors as well as the history behind them. Kick things off with the Marie-Courtin Resonance, a boutique champagne that’s fruity and delicate, but lingers on your tongue. Move on to the wordy Champagne Notes Blanches Pinot Blanc

Brut Nature, made from pinot blanc— soft, ripe and a touch citrusy. End with the 2002 Thienot Brut, a vintage champagne that has been hailed as one of the greatest in the past 20 years. It’s spicy with a hint of peach, and with a dry finish. Why you’ll be back: Besides the $300 deal, there’s an array of lip-smacking bar snacks here thanks to the chefs behind the Grand Hyatt Steakhouse. Choose from smoked salmon served with caviar; foie gras terrine; steak tartare; and other posh bites. Catch the jazz singer perform classics, every night of the week. And maybe order another flight of champers. Lobby, Grand Hyatt Hong Kong, 1 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, 2584-7722.

well as the likes of chargrilled wagyu beef and crispy pork belly. G-LG/F, 16 Arbuthnot Rd., Central, 6821-2801.

The moody space comes alive at night with house, electro and similarly buzzing sounds. 37 Pottinger St., Central, 2324-0200.

Amazake — Amazake is sandwiched between three of Hong Kong’s biggest clubs: Play, Levels and Dizzi. Amazake is bright and pumping with energy, a place for large groups to pre-game before hitting the clubs next door. G/F, On Hing Building, 1 On Hing Terrace, Central 2537-7787

Bungalow — Bungalow by the Prive group has taken back the space where the original Prive nightclub used to be on Wyndham Street. But don’t expect loud music, dim lights or finance types lingering outside the door—Bungalow is worlds apart from the old Prive. In fact, it’s going for a high-end supper club vibe, with classical French decor and borderline-kinky paintings hanging in gilded frames on the walls. Ooh la la. Shop 2, G/F, The Centrium, 60 Wyndham St., Central, 2623-7868.

Aqua Spirit — This bar redefines the notion of having a sophisticated drink with friends. Quoted as one of the best bars in Hong Kong, Aqua has stunning harbor and city views. 29/F-30/F, Penthouse, 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3427-2288. Boujis — Taking cue from its highly successful and celeb-endorsed model in London, Boujis establishes an Asian branch in Hong Kong.

Common Room — Common Room is a spacious gastropub that serves international tapas dishes and mixologist-crafted cocktails right off LKF’s main drag. 1/F, Wo On Building, 8-13 Wo On Lane, Central 2525-3599

For weekly event listings, pick up a free copy of HK Magazine (available at bars, restaurants and coffee shops).

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Drinks Craft Brew & Co — Unlike other beer joints, you won’t find a single mass-produced beer here-so if you can’t bear to part with your Peroni, then maybe move along. There are brews from the likes of Anderson Valley, Anchor and Mountain Goat—and of course, local brewery Young Master Ales. Craft Brew also serves gourmet grilled sausages, made with some unusual ingredients. Forget your average bratwurst (although that’s also on offer)—you’ll find exotic meats such as crocodile, cobra and rabbit on the menu. G/F, 17 Old Bailey St., Central 2885-0821 Djiboutii — Hidden down an unassuming alleyway in Wan Chai, Djiboutii is an Africaninspired ‘urban sanctuary.’ Ingredients like Casamigos tequila, sloe berry liqueurs and Aztec chocolate make appearances in signature cocktails. Nibble on kebab skewers and naan bread dipped in baba ganoush. Shop 1, G/F, 2 Ship St., Wan Chai 9449-0777

Lily and Bloom

Lily and Bloom — A-list celebs have been seen here, with VIPs being buzzed in and out of their fabulous secret room, the Blind Pig. Expect swarms of glitterati and the party elite. The aesthetes amongst you will be delighted at the thought that so much attention has been paid to the visual elements of the venue. 6/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 2810-6166. Origin — The name is a bit of a giveaway-gin is high up on the menu here. With famed mixologist Antonio Lai at the helm, Origin serves up a delectable selection of every single kind of gin you can think of-and then a few more for good measure. G/F, 48 Wyndham St., Central, 2668-5583.

Fu Lu Shou

Fu Lu Shou — Hongkongers love a good rooftop bar. Meaning ‘happiness, prosperity and longevity,’ Fu Lu Shou offers up cool surrounds and interesting concoctions. Not only do the innovative cocktails have a strong local flavor, but you’ll also find western-style Chinatown favorites on the menu. 7/F, 31 Hollywood Rd., Central 2336-8812

Ozone — Located 118 floors above the ground, this bar boasts the title of the highest bar in Hong Kong. With an extensive-and expensive-menu of bubbly bottles and cocktails, this bar is a must-see, mainly because of its sky-high, drop-dead gorgeous lookout onto Victoria Harbour. 118/F, The Ritz-Carlton, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2263-2263.

Sugar — Located on the 32nd floor, with an outdoor deck area some 300 feet above Victoria Harbour, this is the perfect place for patrons to soak up the stunning skyline and sea views Hong Kong has to offer. 32/F, East Hotel, 29 Tai Koo Shing Rd., Quarry Bay, 3968-3738. The Envoy — The Envoy is a stylish venue in an unbeatable Central location, with a touch of colonial influence. Tea makes a frequent appearance in the cocktails: a tip of the hat to the city’s first governor Sir Henry Pottinger, who had a hand in establishing Hong Kong as a major shipping port for the infusion. 3/F, The Pottinger Hong Kong, 74 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2169-3311. The Tonno — This multi-faceted complex features a bar, clubbing zone, restaurant, live music lounge, VIP party enclaves and karaoke rooms-in short, it takes ‘all-around entertainment’ to a whole new level. 5 Tonnochy Rd., Wan Chai, 3125-3888.

Peak Bar — The name’s a little confusing, but this is a cozy, laid-back spot with fab people-watching right on the Mid-Levels Escalator 9-13 Shelley St., Central, 2140-6877. Quinary — This chic hangout off of Hollywood Road serves some awesome cocktails by molecular mixologist Antonio Lai. The Earl Grey caviar martini and the oolong tea Collins are both highly recommended. 56-58 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2851-3223.

Ham & Sherry

Stockton — An apparent imitation of the turnof-the-20th century decadent gentlemen’s club, Stockton not only possesses a sophisticated and secretive vibe, it’s literally hidden in a poorly lit alleyway of Wyndham Street. Once inside, the bar transforms into a posh and glamorous space, decorated with elaborate furniture and antiques, perfect for intimate and romantic nights-out. Their whisky and rum-based cocktails are excellent-definitely try Ribston Apple, an easy-to-drink concoction of spiced rum, Amaretto, apple cider, honey and cinnamon. G/F, 32 Wyndham St., Central, 2565-5268.

Sevva — A spacious alfresco terrace surrounds this super-stylish restaurant / lounge and offers unique, panoramic views over Hong Kong. A perfect place to watch the Symphony of Lights 25/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2537-1388.

Ham & Sherry — Patterned floor-to-ceiling Azulejo tiles in sharp blue and white are the first things that catch your eye at this modestly sized venue. In case it’s not obvious, sherry is the drink of choice here. Be sure to check out the “secret” back room. G/F, 2555-0628, 1-7 Ship St., Wan Chai 2555-0628

Shore — A swanky submarine-themed bar with one of the most extensive drinks selection in town. Cocktail lovers can go for a ‘Surprise Me’choose an ingredient and have the bartender create a unique 10-minute martini, made from fresh fruits and herbs 3/F, L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2915-1638.

Illusion — Love clubbing? Love karaoke? Kill two birds with one stone at Illusion. Located right in the middle of LKF, the brand new nightclub boasts the only karaoke facilities in the hood. 2/F, Cosmo Building, 8-11 Lan Kwai Fong, Central, 2526-9996.

Show Club — Expect the kind of bottle-poppin’, booty-droppin’ action normally seen in rap videos come to life at this late-night club on the corner of Wyndham, right in the center of the action. G-1/F, 29 Wyndham St., Central, 2656-9338.

The Woods

The Woods — This basement bar is decked out in nature-inspired decor-hence the nameand shakes up creative and painstakingly crafted cocktails. L/G, 17 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2522-0281. Tipping Point Brewing Co — This craft beer hangout serves IPAs, stouts and wheat beers instead of standard commercial varieties. The bar is the brainchild of chef and restaurateur Que Vinh Dang. 29 Wyndham St., Central, 2868-2892. Topiary — Cocktail bar Topiary is a mixed bag: alongside premium Scottish single malts and Japanese whiskies, you’ll find shim cocktails on the menu. They’re essentially low-alcohol cocktails, meaning you get all the great flavors and complexity of a drink-without ending up totally tipsy by your third. As for bar snacks, Topiary offers up vegetarian canapes. 3/F, Hilltop Plaza, 49-51 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2866-6485. m a r c h 2 0 15 I WHERE HONG KONG 33

ShopS+Services | The Guide

Walk This Way Check out Causeway Bay's newly renovated one-stop-shopping district. By Evelyn Lok

Self-service Italian at Eat.It

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The Causeway Bay district is one of Hong Kong’s most vibrant shopping destinations, packed with malls and complexes like Fashion Walk, a neighborhood with a wide range of international fashion brands, and al fresco eateries in an area dubbed “Food Street”. Fashion Walk’s Main Block, which used to be the Daimaru Japanese department store in the 70s, has recently been given a revamp. Now you’ll notice fun, modern touches such as a dynamic lighting trail decorating the facade of the building. Within Fashion Walk’s four main streets—Great George, Paterson, Kingston and Cleveland—you’ll find a number of lifestyle stores and flagships that are unique to the area. Recent openings include the largest Vivienne

Tam store (within a mall) and Hong Kong’s debut of the American luggage brand Hartmann. Other highlights include the first branch of local brand Lu Lu Cheung, as well as the only standalone Nike store in the city dedicated to running gear and accessories. After a full day of exploring and shopping, you can check out nearby diners such as the self-service Italian restaurant Eat.It—which touts fresh and authentic Italian ingredients and friendly service; or quirky Hong Kong eatery Gum “Jeng”, which serves up hot local street snacks in a pleasant, modern environment.

Eat.It

ShopS+Services Inside Fashion Walk:

Juice Juice is the brainchild of local celebrities and design-loving duo Edison Chen and Kevin Poon, who founded their youth culture lifestyle brand Clot in 2003. It has since grown into a regional authority on music, fashion and design, as well as event planning. Juice is the brand’s fashion and lifestyle store with four branches located across Asia—the Hong Kong flagship is located on Cleveland Street. Take your pick from I Cremeria's soft-scoop menu

9-11 Cleveland St., Causeway Bay, 2881-0173. Open daily, noon-10pm.

I Cremeria If you’re craving something refreshing after a long day of shopping, head over to new dessert shop I Cremeria, located in Fashion Walk’s Main Block. This Japanese import is famed for its Hokkaido milk and matcha soft-serve ice cream, which is stylishly layered in delectable parfaits with fresh fruits and assorted toppings such as red bean and mochi. Those who are after a little bit of indulgence can order up I Cremeria’s signature treat: a sweet, ripe Hokkaido melon served with a generous helping of milky ice cream in the middle ($180). Shop F9, 1/F, 11-19 Great George St., Causeway Bay, 2897-1118. Open daily, 11am-11pm.

Cool new duds from Juice

Log-On

This funky local fashion brand was founded in 2009 by designer friends Hilary Tsui and Dorothy Hui—catering to the modern city girl who likes to mix and match edgy styles. Liger brings together the latest trends from around the world, with unique items discovered and curated by its founders—think red-lip statement necklaces by pop-art fashion brand Yazbukey, or big pastel sheer overcoats by Liger’s in-house label Oh My God.

Another highlight to Fashion Walk’s recent revamp is the addition of the largest Log-On store on Hong Kong Island. If you’re ever in need of a quirky gift or designer stationery, Log-On is the one-stop shop for all your needs. The expansive space features a dedicated area for Log On’s culture club called “Log-On ToGather,” where members can take part in regularly scheduled DIY workshops and learn to make everything from origami decorations to beautiful forest terrariums.

Shop A&C, Vienna Mansion, 55 Paterson St., Causeway Bay, 2503-5308. Open daily, noon-9:30pm.

Shop F10-F16, 1/F, 11-19 Great George St., Causeway Bay, 2596-8333. Open daily, 11am-11pm.

Liger

Arts and crafts classes at Log-On M ARCH 2 0 15 I WHERE HONG KONG 35

ShopS+Services | The Guide

A Cuff Above

Tailors

Founder Ian Fong and resident designer Steve Seong of custom tailor shop Cuffs share their styling tips with Evelyn Lok.

Cuffs

DAVID FASHIONs — G/F, Shop 15, Empress Plaza, 17-19 Chatham Rd. South, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2368-6884. L & K bespoke Tailor — G/F, Mirador Mansion, 54-64 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2369-7278. La Elite Fashions — G/F, 1E Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2368-0040. Nita Fashions — G/F, 16 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2721-9990.

1. For a foolproof “starter set,” navy is the new black. Pick a dark midnightblue suit and a crisp, white shirt to match. They’re great even for formal tuxes, made popular by Daniel Craig as James Bond. 2. Admit your shape. If you’re a larger guy, don’t opt for patterns, which will make your body look even bigger. Instead, play around with darker colors, and maybe opt for a brighter tie. If you’re short, wear more patterns and designs on the upper body—it will bring up the eye to make you look taller. 3. In Hong Kong, a common suit faux pas is getting sleeves that are too long: It makes your arms look shorter. It’s

always good to show around a halfinch of shirt cuff—an obvious, easy fix. 4. Make sure the shoulder fits foremost. It frames the whole outfit, and you can never alter the shoulder, especially when buying off-the-rack suit jackets. You don’t want to see a step where your shoulder muscle is, which means it’s too small. It should be a nice smooth line. 5. There’s a “trend” in Hong Kong where people request to cut their suits really slim. Sometimes too slim, so that it’s pulling around the buttons and the suit ends up too curvy with a v-shaped proportion. It’s not a good thing, so don’t overdo it.

About the Store Troubled by the average tailor experience in Hong Kong, Cuffs founder Ian Fong sought to simplify the process and add a touch of cool with bold, contemporary designs. Customers get to peruse the dozens of curated styles and trendy fabrics and details from Cuffs’ easyto-follow shirt and suit “bars." Everything is customizable: from buttonhole stitch thread to colorblock fabrics. Be sure to check out Cuffs' seasonal, limited-edition fabrics. The current collaboration is with watercolor artist Chailie Ho. 27 Lee Garden Rd., Causeway Bay, 2413-6033, www.cuffs.hk.

Punjab House

Punjab House — Shop G, G/F, Burlington Houswe, 94 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-6612. Raja Fashions — G/F, 34C Cameron Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-7624. Sam’s Tailor — Shop K, Burlington Arcade, 90-94 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-9423. Shaniel Custom Tailor — G/F, Shop B & C, Comfort Building, 86-88A Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2730-1251.

The Armoury

The Armoury — Shop 307, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2804-6991.

Almost all goods, apart from certain types of alcohol and tobacco, are tax-free.

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ShopS+Services | The Guide

The Big Break

HORIZON PLAZA — It may not look promising but this is something of a mecca for bargain fashion, furniture and Chinese antiques. The industrial high-rise features Lane Crawford and Joyce outlets. Also look for homeware emporium Tequila Kola and antiques warehouse Shambala. 2 Lee Wing St., Ap Lei Chau, 2554-9089.

A special treat for the weary traveler. Holiday in Hong Kong almost over? Consider booking yourself into Regal Airport Hotel’s Om Spa for one last pamper session before the long journey home. The hotel is currently offering a spa and accommodation package that comes with one night stay at the Karma or Nirvana suite, and two days’ worth of relaxing, soothing treatments. The spa package includes a herbal bath, a tamarind body scrub, body massage, facial, and foot massage. Lunch and dinner at the hotel’s restaurants are also included. Prices start at $15,980 per person, and $21,880 per couple.

ISLAND BEVERLEY — Browse through closetsized boutiques offering the best of hip local designers. 1 Great George St., Causeway Bay, 2890-6823. THE LANDMARK — The Landmark is a fashion mecca centered around a five-story atrium. Don’t miss iconic London department store Harvey Nichols. 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3428-8086. LANGHAM PLACE — Occupying about 600,000 square feet, Langham Place houses fashion and lifestyle stores and more than 20 restaurants. It’s within walking distance of the Ladies’ Market and Fa Yuen Street. 8 Argyle St., Mong Kok, 3520-2800, www.langhamplace.com.hk.

Om Spa, Regal Airport Hotel, 3/F, 9 Cheong Tat Rd., Hong Kong International Airport, Chek Lap Kok, 2286-2266.

LEE GARDENS — Divided into Lee Gardens and Lee Gardens Two, this luxury mall is stuffed with high-end retailers such as Gucci, Hermes, Louis Vuitton and more. Lee Gardens Two has children’s fashion shops, and there are plenty of restaurants to choose from. 33 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, 2907-5227, www.hysan.com.hk.

Harvey Nichols at Pacific Place

Shopping Centers APM — In the center of Kwun Tong, APM opens late (11am) but closes even later (2am). It boasts 150 shops, a cinema, more than 20 international restaurants and a convenient link to the MTR station. 418 Kwun Tong Rd., Kwun Tong, 3148-1200. ELEMENTS — Two floors and a million square feet of retail heaven beneath Hong Kong’s tallest building, the ICC, this luxury mall offers international cuisine and world-class shopping. Other features include a cinema, ice rink and enormous rooftop garden. 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2735-5234. HARBOUR CITY — This enormous stretch of shops runs along Canton Road for what seems like miles. Its four levels of shops, services and restaurants sprawl across over 2 million square feet. 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2118-8666. 38 WH E R E HONG KONG I M ARCH 2 015

HYSAN PLACE — This mall is a great one-stop shopping destination, with over 120 stores (including hard-to-find Japanese brands) and tons of high-quality dining options. 500 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2886-7222.

IFC Mall

IFC MALL — This popular shopping center is home to more than 200 international highend brands with Lane Crawford acting as an anchor. It also has a luxurious cinema, and some of the finest dining in the city. Easily accessible via MTR, Airport Express and Star Ferry. 8 Finance St., Central, 2295-3308.

PACIFIC PLACE — One of the most popular malls in Hong Kong, Pacific Place has four floors of upscale shops and restaurants anchored by a massive Harvey Nichols. There’s also a nice range of eateries and a multi-screen cinema. 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2844-8988. PMQ — This Central complex used to be the Police Married Quarters, but is now home to designer boutiques and cool restaurants. 35 Aberdeen St., Central, 2870-2335. PRINCE’S BUILDING — Prince’s Building is linked by covered walkways to The Landmark, Chater House, Alexandra House and The Galleria. A cozy mixture of the uber-fashionable, the artistic and the maternal, it also houses the excellent Oliver’s supermarket. 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2500-0555. One Peking — Satisfy your thirst for designer wear with Dior, Fendi, Miu Miu and Cartier. 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui. Rise Commercial Building — A playground for hip, trendy and young fashionistas. 5-11 Granville Circuit, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2384-8728.

ShopS+Services | The Guide TIMES SQUARE — One of Hong Kong’s largest malls, this 13-story complex contains more than 230 shops—including Lane Crawford, upscale Japanese supermarket Citysuper, Page One books and a cinema. 1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay, 2118-8900.

Shops, Boutiques And Local Designers Blanc de Chine — Modern Chinese luxury clothing and accessories for women and men. Shop 123, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2104-7934.

Wudai Shiguo — This shop in the trendy Star Street neighborhood is a collaboration between a group of local designers and stocks American-style fashion and accessories. 9B1 St. Francis St., Wan Chai, 2528-3800.

Department Stores Harvey Nichols — The Hong Kong branch of London’s famous department store is a haven of international brands, with a good restaurant—the Fourth Floor—and a fabulous beauty department. The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3695-3388.

Daydream Nation — A locally grown label that incorporates fashion with other art forms like theater, dance, music, film and visual arts. It offers its own collection of clothing and accessories, as well as works from local artists and indie bands. Daydream Nation Circus Shop, 2/F, Hong Kong Arts Centre, 2 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, 2817-6313. G.O.D. — Some “Goods of Desire” for those searching for the perfect couch or unique home accessories. G-1/F, 48 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2805-1876. Kapok — Offers meticulously selected international and local brands for menswear, womenswear, bags and accessories, as well as lifestyle products. G/F, 5, St. Francis Yard, Wan Chai, 2549-9254.

JOYCE — Named after founder and Hong Kong’s first lady of fashion, Joyce Ma, this is the place for red-hot fashion and accessories, cult beauty brands and too-chic housewares. G/F, New World Tower, 18 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2810-1120; Shop 232, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2523-5944; Shop G106, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2907-2228.

Vivienne Tam — Elegant, feminine contemporary dresses with a Chinese twist. Shop 417, Times Square, 1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay, 2506-2088. 40 WH E R E HONG KONG I M ARCH 2 015

Flawless

FLAWLESS — This all-in-one shop offers makeup and nail services as well as spa treatments in a spacious upper-level venue. 4/F, Sea Bird House, 22-28 Wyndham St., Central, 2869-5868. IYARA DAY SPA — This Central institution offers everything from manis and pedis to facials, waxing and massage treatments. 1/F, 26 Cochrane St., Central, 2545-8638.

The Ritz-Carlton Spa

The Swank

Tang tang tang tang — Sir David Tang's casual lifestyle store stocks everything from rice cookers to pyjamas. G/F, 66 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2525-2112.

CHUAN SPA — This stunning spa focuses on the individual needs of each client through traditional Chinese medicine and theories, including yin and yang. Its consultants are qualified in Chinese medicine, massage and naturopathy. 41/F, Langham Place Hotel, 555 Shanghai St., Mong Kok, 3552-3510, www.chuanspa.com.

SOGO — Japan’s most famous department store sits at one of the city’s busiest intersections. 555 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2833-8338.

SHANGHAI TANG — Shanghai Tang specializes in a funky fusion of traditional and contemporary Chinese design. You’ll find kitsch accessories, great housewares, fun T-shirts, fashion for men and women, and incredibly beautiful bespoke cheongsams. The flagship is worth a visit. 1 Duddell St., Central, 2525-7333.

Tang Tang Tang Tang

SPAS

Joyce

LANE CRAWFORD — This Hong Kong institution is almost as old as the city itself, and just as fashionable. It’s stacked with must-have designer brands as well as handbags, shoes, silver, linen, crystal and everything in between. 3/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2118-3388.

Shanghai Tang

YUE HWA CHINESE EMPORIUM — Yue Hwa is a great place to pick up souvenirs and gifts, from acupuncture needles to Chinese Zodiac figurines. There is a good selection of cheongsams, tops and trousers tailored from quality silk. 301-309 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3511-2222.

THE SWANK — Representing established designers as well as up-and-coming talents, The Swank has been one of the finest local fashion houses since 1955. It has 17 freestanding boutiques and points-of-sale in major department stores. Shop 103B, 1/F, Ocean Centre, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2175-4228.

Chinese Emporiums CHINESE ARTS AND CRAFTS — Stuffed with the best of Chinese crafts, from tablecloths to objets d’art to some incredible jade, this is one of the best places to stock up on gifts, porcelain, jewelry, cloth and fine antiques. Shop 220, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2735-4061.

THE RITZ-CARLTON SPA BY ESPA — Get pampered at the highest hotel spa in the world. Located on the 116th floor, this relaxing retreat looms over the city and offers majestic views of Victoria Harbour. Spa guests can also take a dip in the hotel's sky-high infinity pool after their treatments. 116/F, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 22632040, www.ritzcarlton.com/hongkong. TEN FEET TALL — Go to Ten Feet Tall for a slightly different foot massage experience in an exotic ambience. The foot massage center features bright and sunny beach cabanas with pine, bamboo, natural marble and bright décor. The place’s signature treatments include genuine foot reflexology, shoulder and neck massages, pressure point massages and aromatic oil massages. 20-21/F, L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2971-1010, www.tenfeettall.com.hk.

Own a piece of HK magazine history with one of these fabulous framed limited edition vintage covers

HK$888 EACH 25 units left

order yours at www.hk-magazine.com/store

Navigate | The Guide www.mtr.com.hk

Tourist Information HONG KONG TOURISM BOARD — The Hong Kong Tourism Board is ready to answer all your questions about travel in Hong Kong. Look for visitor centers at the following locations: Hong Kong International Airport (at Buffer Halls A and B, Arrivals Level, Terminal 1); Lo Wu (Arrival Hall, 2/F, Lo Wu Terminal Building); Kowloon (Star Ferry Concourse, Tsim Sha Tsui, open daily 8am-8pm); and The Peak Piazza (between The Peak Tower and The Peak Galleria, Hong Kong Island, open daily 9am-9pm). You can also call the Visitor Hotline (2508-1234) from 9am to 6pm. Visit www.discoverhonghong.com for descriptions of attractions, plus shopping, dining and touring tips. The website also has a comprehensive description of the month’s events and festivals, as well as virtual tours, e-cards, a photo gallery and handy downloadable apps for your phone.

Get Moving

Octopus Cards

Hong Kong has a great public transportation system called the MTR, as well as highly punctual, carefully scheduled buses (with their routes clearly printed in English). Renting a car can be a headache because roads can be confusing and parking costly. It’s cheaper and easier to take a taxi, ferry, tram, bus, hotel limousine, or even a helicopter.

These are “tap-and-go” stored-value cards used across all of Hong Kong’s transportation systems (apart from taxis), and in retail outlets like car parks and convenience stores.

Taxis Taxis are readily available at reasonable prices. Be aware that drivers cannot pick up or drop off on roads marked with double yellow lines, and no waiting is allowed except on unmarked roads. Red taxis serve Hong Kong Island and Kowloon and can go anywhere in the territory. Green taxis cost less but only serve the New Territories. Similarly, blue taxis serve Lantau Island only. Drivers generally speak some English, but it is wise to get the hotel staff to write your destination in Chinese characters, or point to one of the destinations in this guide.

The size of a credit card, the Octopus is simply placed on the touch pads at the entrance to public transportation or the cash register in shops. Payment is automatically deducted. Cards can be refilled at MTR stations and any retail outlet that accepts them. Three types of Octopus cards are available. The “On Loan Octopus” costs $150, which includes a $50 deposit and $100 of stored value. The “Sold Octopus” costs $50, and does not include any stored value. The “Airport Express Travel Pass” costs $220/$300 and includes one/two single Airport Express journeys and three days of unlimited rides on the MTR, $20 stored value and a $50 deposit.

Trams have been a part of Hong Kong life for more than 100 years. With a $2.30 flat fare, they are still the cheapest way to get around.

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Navigate

Wonton Wonderland A Sham Shui Po hostel offers patrons an authentically local experience.

Sam’s The Man (Just ask his customers)

Located in the heart of Sham Shui Po, the newly rebranded Wontonmeen Hostel is aiming straight for those adventurous travelers looking for an affordable stay as well as a few friendships along the way. The uniquely Hong Kong-style hostel boasts three floors of 1,000-square-foot spaces shared dormitory-style by 10 lodgers each. Wontonmeen is easily one of the cheapest options in the city, with rates from around $230-250 per bed per night. Not only is it popular with budget-conscious tourists, but it’s also a hit for local creative types looking for a quick escape and a dose of inspiration. All of Wontonmeen’s sturdy blue-framed beds are made by local

craftsmen, and each bed has a privacy screen designed by local indie and street artist Katol Lo. The rooms are adorned with colorful carpets and bright furniture, providing a sharp contrast to the shiny green floors. Want to know what’s going on in the local arts scene? There’s a dedicated art space called 100ft PARK on the ground floor where you can catch an exhibition by the latest up-and-coming creative. Or enjoy a cup of coffee with your fellow roommates at the Urban Coffee Roaster, which stocks beans from Costa Rica, Panama and Brazil. For an affordable alternative, the Wontonmeen is truly one-of-a-kind.

Sam’s Tailor, Shop K, Burlington Arcade, 92-94 Nathan Road, Tsimshatsui, Kowloon. Tel: (852) 2367 9423 / 2721 8375 Fax: (852) 2311 8147

1/F, 135 Lai Chi Kok Rd., Prince Edward, 6904-0918, www.wontonmeen.com.

This could be yours in

HONG KONG For Advertising rates and further information. Call 2850 5678 M ARCH 2 015 I WHERE H ONG KONG 43

Navigate | The Guide Buses

Ask the Concierge

Hong Kong has two major bus companies:

You can be sure that Giovanni Valenti knows his stuff, after 36 years as concierge at the Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong.

citybus / New World First BUS — 2136-8888/2873-0818, www.nwstbus.com.hk.

Kowloon Motor Bus — 2745-4466, www.kmb.hk.

Sights & Attractions Avenue of Stars — Fans of Hong Kong movies will find their heroes' hand- and footprints permanently etched in concrete along the Avenue of the Stars, as well as a statue of Bruce Lee. Go at 8pm for the nightly music-and-laser extravaganza called the Symphony of Lights. Music only plays over the loudspeakers here, although the harborfront light display can be seen from around the city. Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront, Tsim Sha Tsui.

Big Buddha

What’s the most important Chinese word you think a visitor should learn? For a non-Chinese speaker, the first word should be ng goi, which means “thanks” in Cantonese. What is your favorite thing about the city? We have many great bars and restaurants with fantastic drinks and foods very close to one another— like in Lan Kwai Fong and SoHo. I’d like to eat some authentic Hong Kong food near here. What would you recommend? Hong Kong is a place where you can find authentic food easily. I recommend Fook Lam Moon, Yung Kee or Peking Garden. My favorite restaurant is full. Can you get me a table? We usually have good contacts with restaurant owners, managers, chefs or waiters, so we can usually get one. What’s the strangest request you’ve had? To buy a teddy bear— which was human-sized.

44 WH E R E HONG KONG I M ARCH 2 015

Do you have to acquiesce to every request? Is there anything you would say no to? Nothing is impossible. We do have always an answer to any strong request (as long as it is legal). If you had all the money in the world to spend for one day in Hong Kong, what would you do? I would hire a private yacht with catering staff and sommeliers to enjoy Hong Kong’s waters with excellent food and champagne. And if you had just $100? A trip to Stanley by bus number 6. Sit on the upper deck to enjoy the views. It’s only $7.90 per ride. What is the etiquette on tipping in Hong Kong? There is no etiquette on tipping in Hong Kong really. A beautiful “thanks” with a smile is worth more than money, or a nice letter to our General Manager mentioning our department would be great. Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2522-0111.

Big Buddha — Situated beside Po Lin Monastery on Lantau Island is the Big Buddha—the largest seated outdoor bronze Buddha in the world. The statue is set amid mountains and hiking trails, and looks absolutely stunning on a clear day from the Ngong Ping cable car. Nearby is The Wisdom Path, lined with wood carvings featuring the calligraphy from an important text for Confucians, Buddhists and Taoists. The vegetarian restaurant within the monastery is the best option if you're famished. Ngong Ping Village, Lantau Island, 2985-5248. Chi Lin Nunnery — An oasis of peace in the heart of Kowloon, this graceful, wooden Buddhist nunnery is the largest building in the world to be constructed using no nails—only wooden dowels and brackets. It's a 33,000-square-meter complex whose architectural style dates back to the Tang Dynasty, although the buildings themselves were completed in 1998. It's centered on a courtyard filled with lotus ponds, and a stroll through the gardens makes for a bucolic escape. Vegetarian food is available in a quaint teahouse. 5 Chi Lin Drive, Diamond Hill, 2354-1888. Duk Ling Chinese Sailing Junk — Launched in 1955, the Duk Ling is one of the last authentic sailing junks in Hong Kong. It can carry up to 36 passengers. 2573-5282. Fa Yuen Street — Heaving with bargain hunters every afternoon, Fa Yuen Street is stuffed with cheap fashion boutiques, factory outlets and accessories stores for men, women and children. Fa Yuen St., Prince Edward.

Navigate Sha Tin Racecourse — Join the screaming hordes at Happy Valley and Sha Tin racecourses for a few adrenalin-fueled hours. Mingle with the masses in the stands, or opt for the more refined atmosphere in the boxes. The season runs September to mid-June, with about 700 races a year held an average of twice a week.

Man Mo Temple

Hong Kong Observation Wheel

Hong Kong Observation Wheel — The city now has its own ferris wheel right by Victoria Harbour, for those who can't get enough of Hong Kong's stunning skyline. 33 Man Kwong St., Central. Hong Kong Park — This 8-hectare park has a large walk-through aviary, a conservatory housing unusual and exotic plants, sports and squash centers, a multistory playground, a tai chi garden and a clock tower. In the conservation corner are more than 100 species of dragonflies. Also worth visiting are the Flagstaff House Museum of Tea Ware and the Hong Kong Visual Arts Centre. 19 Cotton Tree Drive, Central, 2521-5041. Hong Kong Wetland Park — This worldclass ecotourism attraction demonstrates the diversity of Hong Kong's wetlands, and the importance of conservation. It's a 61-hectare site with user-friendly facilities such as a stream walk, succession walk, mangrove boardwalk and bird hides. Wetland Park Rd., Tin Shui Wai, 3152-2666. Jade Market — In Chinese culture, jade is associated with good health and a long life. The jade market stalls sell everything from expensive carved jade to cheap trinkets, as well as pearls and other jewelry of varying quality. Kansu St. and Battery St., Yau Ma Tei. Ladies' Market — Find dog toys, trinkets and accessories, racy underwear, costume jewelry and more all along this road. Down the side lanes are vintage shops, fashion outlets and the occasional restaurant. Tung Choi St., Mong Kok. Open daily noon-11:30pm. Lan Kwai Fong — Thankfully closed to cars most of the time, these thoroughfares are jam-packed full of bars and nightclubs, with revelers spilling out into the streets at all hours. Attracting yuppies and visitors like moths to a flame, a good night out in Lan Kwai Fong is almost guaranteed. Lan Kwai Fong, near D'Aguilar St., Central. Mai Po Marshes — Who knew that Hong Kong was a bird-watcher's paradise? The 1,500-hectare Mai Po Marshes reserve is run by the World Wildlife Fund and is a designated Wetland of International Importance thanks to the thousands of migratory wading birds passing through each autumn and winter. Mai Po Nature Reserve, Yuen Long, 2482-0369.

Man Mo Temple — This atmospheric temple must be one of the most photographed in Hong Kong. Great incense spirals dangle from the rafters, filling the roof space with aromatic smoke and lending a deep patina to the statues of gods Man Cheong (god of literature) and Kuan Ti (god of martial arts, or Mo) on the altars. 126 Hollywood Rd., near Ladder St., Sheung Wan.

Stanley

Stanley — The seaside township of Stanley has a market, shops, restaurants and bars that line a bay on one side and a beach on the other. It's the perfect place to take a walk along the waterfront, chill at an alfresco resto and pick up some souvenirs. Stanley Main St., Stanley.

Ngong Ping 360

Ngong Ping 360 — This kitschy culturalthemed village features dining, retail and entertainment attractions. The cable car offers panoramic views as it passes over North Lantau Country Park to the Big Buddha. 111 Ngong Ping Rd., Lantau Island, 3666-0606. Ocean Park — Get up close and personal with a dolphin or a panda, walk through a shark tank, dive into a coral reef or whirl upside down on a roller coaster. Located near Aberdeen, Ocean Park manages to amuse and educate with its marine and bird life exhibits, giant panda enclosure, wild headland rides, and a cable car trip between the park's two parts. 180 Wong Chuk Hang Rd., Aberdeen, 2552-0291.

Tai O — It would be wishful thinking to describe this fishing village as a Venice of the East, but there's no doubting the charm of its maze of stilt houses built over a creek on the northwestern coast of Lantau Island. It's a fascinating slice of old Hong Kong, with dried fish stalls, trays of smelly shrimp paste, a picturesque Tin Hau Temple at the end of a causeway and a couple of interesting little museums. A boutique hotel and restaurant add a touch of colonial elegance to the traditional town. Lantau Island.

Ten Thousand Buddhas

Peak Tram

Peak Tram — There was a time when the best way up the Peak was by sedan chair— a grueling experience, particularly for the bearers. So the arrival of the Peak Tram was a blessing, one for which we are still thankful. The little funicular railway is one of the best trips in town, panting up Hong Kong Island's tallest mountain at a seemingly impossible angle that enchants all aboard. Sit on the right for the best views. St. Joseph's Building, Central, 2522-0922.

Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery — One of the most celebrated monasteries in Hong Kong, the Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery actually has more than 12,800 Buddhas stored in five temples, four pavilions and a nine-story pagoda. The one that you're likely to remember best is the mummified Buddhist monk, who sits in splendor, coated in gold leaf, inside a glass case. Light meals are served at the on-site vegetarian restaurant. Sha Tin, 2691-1067. Wong Tai Sin Temple — Named after the deity Wong Tai Sin, this Taoist temple completed its restoration in 1973 and is a popular shrine for local pilgrims who want to glimpse their future via a Chinese practice called "kau cim." Lung Cheung Rd., Wong Tai Sin, 2327-8141. M ARCH 2 015 I WHERE H ONG KONG 45

Walking Tours | The Guide

A Stroll Through Time Turn left at Lok Ku Road, then right onto Upper Lascar Row.

Upper Lascar Row Also known as Cat Street, this alley is a shopper’s paradise lined with traditional street stalls. Walk back uphill to Hollywood Road, turn left and walk until you reach the Man Mo Temple.

Man Mo Temple One of the first traditional-style temples in Hong Kong, this homage to the gods of war and literature was built during the colonial era. Open daily from 8am to 6pm. Former Central Police Station Compound

Continue walking east along Hollywood Road to the Central–Mid-Levels Escalator. Take the escalator up to Staunton Street and the SoHo area.

Central–Mid-Levels Escalator At 800 meters long, this is the world’s longest connected outdoor escalator. Stalls on Cat Street

Walk through Sheung Wan and Central, and discover two areas where the hustle and bustle of a modern city mingle with colorful, age-old traditions. Start at Sheung Wan MTR Station. Take exit B, turn right and walk about three minutes.

Western Market An Edwardian-style building built in 1906, this grand structure is now a historical monument full of themed shops, tailors and restaurants. Walk along Morrison Street and turn right into Wing Lok Street.

46 WH E R E HONG KONG I M ARCH 2 015

Old signs in Sheung Wan

Wing Lok Street, Ko Shing Street, and Des Voeux Road West

SoHo You’ll find great food, coffee shops and funky bars in this lively dining district. There are also plenty of boutiques and markets around.

These three streets are lined with specialty shops selling ginseng and bird’s nest; dried seafood; and herbs used in Traditional Chinese Medicine.

Take the steps beside the escalator down to Hollywood Road, turn right and walk to the former Central Police Station Compound, former Central Magistracy and Victoria Prison Compound.

Return to Des Voeux Road West, turn right into Bonham Strand West and continue until you can turn right into Possession Street. Walk uphill and turn left onto Hollywood Road.

Former Central Police Station Compound

Hollywood Road This thoroughfare is famous for its many curios and antiques shops.

This gray building with a Doric-style façade and columns was built in 1864. A revitalization project to convert the building for commercial use is underway.

What happened at the Pinewood Battery? *

Former Central Magistracy The structure has a majestic appearance, with imposing pillars and other features typical of Greek Revival style.

Victoria Prison Compound Built in 1841, the now-defunct Victoria Prison is believed to be the first western building constructed of durable material in Hong Kong. Walk east along Hollywood Road as it turns into Wyndham Street, and follow the signs to Lan Kwai Fong.

Lan Kwai Fong A buzzing center of clubs, bars and restaurants. A must for night owls and people-watchers. Walk up Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Aguilar Street, cross Wyndham Street and turn left onto Lower Albert Road. Follow the signs to Duddell Street.

Duddell Street Steps & Gas Lamps The lamps at the head and foot of the steps, built between 1875 and 1889, are the only four gas lamps remaining in Hong Kong.

For more Hong Kong walks visit www.discoverhongkong.com or call the HKTB hotline on 2508-1234.

*Learn about this and other fascinating facts in

Historical Hong Kong Hikes A guide to 15 remarkable treks, detailing the rich history of the SARâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s peaks, valleys and urban neighborhoods

In all major bookstores now! Or order yours at: www.historicalhkhikes.com

M ARCH 2 015 I WHERE H ONG KONG 47

map of Central ÂŠ OpenStreetMap contributors. See openstreetmap.org

48 W H E R E HONG KONG I M a r c h 2 015

Tel: 2730 1251

30 Things we LOve about Hong Kong 1

1 Counting the Ten Thousand

9 Shaking fortune-telling

Buddhas at this peaceful hilltop monastery near Sha Tin.

bamboo sticks at the Wong Tai Sin Temple.

2 Dressing up for high tea at

!0 Saying hi to Bruce Lee at the Avenue of Stars, Tsim Sha Tsui.

The Peninsula. Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2969-6772.

3 Watching the sunset from tranquil Pui O Beach, Lantau Island.

4 Having our palms read at the Temple Street night market, Yau Ma Tei.

5 Spotting endangered white dolphins with Dolphinwatch off Lantau Island, 2984-1414.

6 Going on thrill rides and petting pandas at Ocean Park. Aberdeen, 3923-2323.

7 Dining aboard the kitschy-cool Jumbo Floating Restaurant. Shum Wan Pier Drive, Wong Chuk Hang, Aberdeen, 2553-9111.

8 Cruising Victoria Harbour on the Duk Ling, an authentic Chinese fishing junk, 2368-8885

!1 Shopping at PMQ, 35 Aberdeen St., Central. !2 Eating with the locals at a dai pai dong food stall. Gough Street, Central. !3 Hiking around the beautiful Sai Kung Peninsula. !4 Riding the cable car 5.7 kilometers over Lantau’s lush valleys to visit the Tian Tan Buddha (Big Buddha). !5 Haggling with hawkers for jade, gold and cheap jewelry at the Jade Market. Kansu and Battery Streets, Yau Ma Tei. !6 Queing for coveted dim sum at Tim Ho Wan. Shop 12A, Hong Kong Station (Podium Level 1, IFC Mall, Central, 2332-3078). !7 Setting your watch by the Noonday Gun. 221 Gloucester Rd. (opposite The Excelsior), Causeway Bay.

50 WH E R E HONG KONG I M ARCH 2 015

!8 Snaking through the high-rises on the Mid-Levels Escalator—the longest in the world. Cochrane, Shelley and Peel Streets, Central. !9 Being close to nature at the Hong Kong Wetland Park. Tin Shui Wai, New Territories, 3152-2666. @0 Taking the Peak Tram to visit Hong Kong celebrities at Madame Tussauds. Shop P101, The Peak Tower, 128 Peak Rd., 2849-6966. @1 Exploring Lamma Island, then feasting on deep-fried squid at Rainbow Seafood. 23-25 First St., Sok Kwu Wan, Lamma Island, 2982-8100. @2 Marveling at the beautiful Chi Lin Nunnery, the world’s largest building to be constructed without nails. 5 Chi Lin Drive, Diamond Hill, Kowloon, 2354-1888. @3 Taking the oldest ride in Hong Kong—a tram from Western District to Causeway Bay.

@4 Enjoying free traditional kung fu demonstrations and cultural performances at Kowloon Park every Sunday from 2:30-4:30pm, weather permitting. @5 Taking a romantic trip from Central to Tsim Sha Tsui on the famous Star Ferry. @6 Taking a walk down the Historic Trail at the Museum of Coastal Defence, 2569-1500. @7 Drinking in the view at panoramic bar Aqua Spirit. 30/F, One Peking, 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3427-2288. @8 Checking out the old Kowloon-Canton Railway Corporation clocktower. Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui. @9 Getting a shave and a trim at the Mandarin Barber. 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4088. #0 Bird-watching at the Mai Po Nature Reserve, Mai Po, 2482-0369.

Arch Angel Authenticated museum quality Asian antiquities. 53/55 Hollywood Road • Central • Hong Kong • Tel: (852) 2851 6848 • Fax: (852) 2851 6778 • Open Daily: 9:30-6:30 Email: antiques@ArchAngelAntiques.com.hk