Where Paris - August 2014

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PA R IS M O N T H LY C I T YGU I DE 速

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CULTURE

ART

DINING

ENTERTAINMENT

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PERSONALISE YOUR PARIS AT WHERETRAVELER.COM

CONTENTS

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50

[THE GUIDE] 18 SHOPPING

The city’s latest boutique openings, trends and address book for everything fashion related 40 ARTS & ATTRACTIONS

This month’s round-up of exhibits and attractions 50 DINING

Our selection of restaurants for every mood and every taste

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68 ENTERTAINMENT

This month’s hottest bars, clubs and events 78 NAVIGATE

Your guide to getting around the city with maps and transport listings

A UGU S T 2 0 14 ®

A PARISIAN BREAK FASHION

CULTURE

ART

DINING

ENTERTAINMENT

MAPS

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08 Hot Dates This month’s calendar of must-see events

11 A Scenic Stroll Along the Seine We guide you along the River Seine and show you the city’s historical monuments

14 A Baccarat Experience Celebrate the crystal maker’s 250th anniversary and discover the luxurious mansion that house’s the brand’s gallery-museum and restaurant

16 Charming Chantilly We take you on a day trip to the charming town of Chantilly

ON THE COVER Illustration © Odysée Dao

18 CONNECT WITH US ONLINE

Facebook.com/whereparismagazine Twitter.com/whereparis

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RAPH’S PHOTO © S BECQUET; PONT DES ARTS PHOTO © A.G.PHOTOGRAPHE; CRISTAL ROOM BACCARAT PHOTO © JEROME MONDIERE

Issue N o 247

PA R IS M O N T H LY C I T YGU I DE

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AOÛT 7 22 AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES 75008 PARIS FRANCE BANANAREPUBLIC.EU/FRANCE

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the team | where PariS

35 rue des Mathurins 75008 Paris, France Tel: +33 (0)1 43 12 56 56 Fax: +33 (0)1 43 12 56 57

WHERE PARIS PROJECT IS ENDORSED BY

PUBLISHER and GEnERaL manaGER

Pascal Tranchant Tel: +33 (0)1 43 12 56 42 pascal.tranchant@morriseurope.com EdITOR Sandra Iskander*

Sandra Iskander [Editor]

GROUP aRT dIRECTOR Tim Benton SEnIOR dESIGnER Lee Henry dESIGnER Jackie Jenks PROdUCTIOn manaGER/LOndOn Melanie Needham SEnIOR PROdUCTIOn aSSISTanT Jennifer Bourne PROdUCTIOn aSSISTanT David Weeks COnTRIBUTInG WRITERS Alexander Lobrano, Patricia Valicenti* dESIGnER and PROdUCTIOn manaGER Céline Février*

August in PAris

dESIGnER and WEB dESIGnER Laura Zaharia* SaLES dIRECTOR Jean-Louis Roux-Fouillet

jeanlouis.rouxfouillet@wheremagazine.com advERTISInG - SEnIOR aCCOUnT manaGERS Corinne Durant*, Jana Herrmann*

The seine is one of the French capital’s most famous attractions, beautifully separating the Left from the right Bank. This month we take you on a ride along the tranquil river and help you discover some of the magnificent monuments that gracefully adorn its banks. This year marks the 250th anniversary of Baccarat and in this issue of Where we take you inside the crystal maker’s luxurious mansion where you will get a sneak peek of the exhibit commemorating this milestone. as for a cultural getaway, we take you on a day trip to the charming town of Chantilly. Here you can visit the historical chateau, discover the Great stables and taste the town’s specialty, the famous Chantilly cream. To help you take advantage of the warmer weather and Paris’s renowned fine fare, in our Dining section we share with you our favourite al fresco tables around the city. For family fun make sure you turn to our arts & attractions section for our top attractions including taking a boat cruise along the seine. Boasting numerous museums, Paris offers wonderful exhibits and in this issue we bring you a round-up of the month’s must-see shows, including Mémoires Vives, the first exhibition commemorating Fondation Cartier’s 30th anniversary. Meanwhile, in our Entertainment section you will find all the best bars including the recently renovated andy Wahloo where you can sample one of their 100 different whiskies.

advERTISInG - aCCOUnT manaGER Delphine Ivanchenko* dISTRIBUTIOn and HOTEL SERvICES manaGER Suzanne Tang* SaLES & maRKETInG aSSISTanT Jennifer Groult* OFFICE manaGER Emmanuelle Marquet* *E-maIL FOR aLL OF THE aBOvE FIRSTnamE.LaSTnamE@WHEREmaGazInE.COm

MOrriS ViSiTOr PUBLiCaTiONS

MVP i EUROPE manaGInG dIRECTOR EUROPE Chris Manning

MVP i EXECUTiVE PRESIdEnT Donna W. Kessler

MVP i CREATiVE CHIEF CREaTIvE OFFICER Haines Wilkerson dESIGn dIRECTOR Jane Frey CREaTIvE COORdInaTOR Beverly Mandelblatt

MOrriS COMMUNiCaTiONS CHaIRman & CEO William S. Morris III PRESIdEnT William S. Morris IV

Plan ahead for your next visit to Paris, subscribe to Where® Magazine : annual 12 issues €80 (France), €96 Europe, €132 (outside Europe). Contact : Emmanuelle Marquet Tel : +33 (0)1 43 12 56 41 E-mail : emmanuelle.marquet@wheremagazine.com Edité par Where Paris sNC. société en nom collectif constituée le 26 mai 1993 au capital de €1.725.795. Durée 99 ans. 391 247 251 rCs Paris. représentant légal: Chris Manning. Tirage: 54,080 (OJD 2013). N° de issN: 1241-8625. Dépôt légal: août 2014. reproduction interdite sauf accord préalable. Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. all rights reserved. reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. Where® is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications.

where PariS supports:

We hope you enjoy august in Paris. Published by the Visitor Publications division of Morris Communications Company, LLC 725 Broad St., Augusta, GA 30901

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Beachy Paris

With the warmer weather here the French capital has transformed itself again into a beachside haven for locals and visitors to escape the sweltering heat for the annual Paris Plages event. Along the Seine, the banks have become a beach resort complete with sand, palm trees and water activities. The children will love all the activities organised just for them while the adults will sure love the live entertainment taking place in the evenings. Casual restaurants are also found along the “beach” as well as vendors selling creamy ice-cream to help you cool down. Turn to our Entertainment section for all practical information.

Paris Plage 2002 © Paris TourisT office - amélie DuPonT

HOT 6 DATES

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[AUGUST IN PAR IS]

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SUNDAY

FUN FAIR Take the kids and enjoy a fun family day out complete with the rollercoaster rides and fairy floss at the Jardin des Tuileries fun fair.

FRIDAY

SUITE WITH A VIEW The Hotel Renaissance Arc de Triomphe is celebrating its fifth birthday with an exclusive ephemeral restaurant opening today through to the end of the month. Private Makassar sees one of the hotel’s suites transformed into a pop-up restaurant, offering clients a panoramic view of the French capital and a menu created by chef Mickaël Foubert featuring French Indonesian fusion dishes. Reservations are required. 39 ave de Wagram (17th), 01 55 37 55 03

SATURDAY

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DISNEY WELCOMES RATATOUILLE

The recently opened attraction at Disneyland brings to life everyone’s favourite chef, Remy. As the 3D ride shrinks you to the size of a rat you will experience the ups and downs of Remy as he manoeuvres his way through a Parisian restaurant. Passing a hot stove, avoiding being hit by a champagne bottle cork and delicately avoiding a crowded restaurant are only some of the adventures you will experience on this new ride. Turn to our Arts & Attractions section for all practical information to get you to the happiest place in the world.

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MONDAY

A VIP DINNER Board the VIP Paris Yacht Hotel at the foot of the Eiffel Tower and take in the splendid city as you embark on a two-hour and a half dinner cruise. Sip on champagne and dine on foie gras as you glide by the Musée du Louvre, Notre Dame and Pont Neuf. Reservations are required on 01 44 68 06 38. www.le-vip-paris.com

BABY DIOR

Visit the recently opened Baby Dior boutique on the chic Rue Royale, which links Place de la Madeleine and Place de la Concorde. The boutique features a sky ceiling painted by artist Mathias Kiss, which looks down onto the fabulous fashions for the next generation of Dior fans. 25 rue Royale (8th)

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The world of Beretta in the heart of Paris

Beretta Gallery 57, Rue Pierre Charron (Crossing Champs-ƒ lysŽ es) Pure Italian lifestyle celebrating the outdoor. PARIS - BUENOS AIRES - DALLAS - LONDON - MILANO - NEW YORK

beretta.com

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The Pont des Arts

Pont des Arts Photo © A.G.PhotoGrAPhe

A SCENIC STROLL ALONG THE SEINE BY SANDRA ISKANDER

It is one of the most romantic ways to take in the French capital, hand in hand with your chéri, and it is the ideal backdrop for a convivial day of discovery and sightseeing with your friends and family. The Seine, the French capital’s famous river, separates the arty Left Bank from the bourgeois Right Bank, all the while dotting its

length with the city’s magnificent monuments. Whether you’re crisscrossing your way across the city over the romantic bridges linking the two banks or taking a cruise, gliding your way along the Seine, the river is an open invitation to Paris’s magic. The glittering Eiffel Tower, the impressive Musée du Louvre and the golden Pont Alexandre

III are only a few of the monuments that you will discover peppered along the Seine, not forgetting the charming Ile Saint-Louis and the Ile de la Cité with the Gothic masterpiece, the Notre Dame de Paris cathedral.

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[AUGUST in PAr iS]

grand pal ais pal ais de chaillot sitting across the seine from the Eiffel Tower is Palais de Chaillot, which was bult in 1937. Featuring two independent wings, which house the Musée National de la Marine and the Musée de l’Homme, the Palais de Chaillot is one of the most visited areas in the city, particularly for its wide esplanade that gives tourists the perfect view of the Eiffel Tower.

Built for the 1900 World’s Fair, the Grand Palais is an impressive iron structure with light steel framing and a glass roof. Today, the space is used for trade shows, art exhibitions and French couture fashion house Chanel hosts its theatrical fashion shows here.

jardin des tuileries Located off Place de la Concorde, is Jardin des Tuileries, a magnificent public garden, originally designed by Catherine de Médicis, the Queen consort of France, wife of King Henry ii, in 1564 when she had the Tuileries Palace built. The design of the Tuileries now centres on an avenue that extends to the Louvre museum with the garden featuring a superb collection of statues including 18 works by Maillol as well as works by Coustou and rodin. The gardens are where many fashion shows are held during the prestigious Paris Fashion Week, while fun fairs are organised during the summer for children.

Musee d’orsay

standing on the ile aux Cygnes, near Pont de Grenelle, is the second statue of Liberty in Paris, the first (and original, which was used as a model for the New York statue) is found in the Jardin du Luxembourg. The statue was inaugurated on July 4, 1889 and its tablets shows two dates, July 4, 1776, the United states Declartion of independence, and July 14, 1789, Bastille day.

The Eiffel Tower was originally built as a temporary exhibit for the 1889 World’s Fair. The iron structure, symbolising the City of Light the world over, is now over 120 years old, and is as grand as ever, sparkling and glittering with lights for five minutes every hour on the hour. Gustave Eiffel created the iron Lady to stand 300 metres high, and with 1652 steps leading to the top, it is where you can see Paris from high above and fall in love with the most beautiful city in the world.

IllustratIon © odysee dao

statue of libert y

eiffel tower

Housed in a former train station, the Musée d’Orsay is devoted to 19th and 20th century art, showcasing the largest collection of impressionist and post-impressionist masterpieces. Paintings and sculptures are exhibited with works by Manet, Van Gogh and rodin on show. Opening to the public in 1986, the museum was originally formed with the national collections from the Louvre, Musée du Jeu de Paume and the National Museum of Modern art.

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MUSEE DU LOUVRE Open since 1793, the Louvre museum houses some of the world’s most important art works, including the Mona Lisa. The museum is comprised of three wings with the Denon wing housing European paintings and sculptures, large-format 19th-century French paintings, Greek and Roman antiquities, and Greek and Russian icons. The Richelieu wing features French paintings and sculptures, Oriental antiquities and Islamic art, while the Sully wing houses the monumental remains of the medieval Louvre and Egyptian antiquities. You can also discover Louis XIV’s magnificent Apollo Gallery, which provides a glittering setting for France’s crown jewels, and the Pavillon des Sessions, which displays primitive art from Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas.

nOtRE-DaME DE paRiS Constructed between 1163 and 1345, the Notre Dame de Paris cathedral is a Gothic masterpiece. Located on the Ile de la Cité, it was among the first constructions worldwide to use arched exterior supports. The Notre Dame holds five bells, including the bourdon bell that is located in the south tower and weighs over 13 tonnes. Perhaps the most impressive of features of the cathedral is the South Rose Window. A gift from King Saint Louis, it was designed by Jean de Chelles and Pierre de Montreuil, and was constructed in 1260 as a counterpoint to the North Rose Window. Dedicated to the New Testament, it is almost 19 metres in height and features 84 panes, which are divided into four circles. Another notable quality of the Notre Dame is the great organ. With five keyboards, one hundred and ninety ties and eight thousand pipes, it is France’s largest organ and one of the world’s most renowned.

bibLiOthEqUE natiOnaLE DE fRancE The Bibliothèque Nationale de France (National Library of France) is a public library that was inaugurated in 1996. All works published in France are found here, including books, journals and manuscripts.

panthEOn Located in the Latin Quarter, the Panthéon was originally a church dedicated to Saint Genevieve. Modelled after the Pantheon in Rome, today it is a mausoleum that contains the remains of distinguished French citizens including Voltaire, Victor Hugo and Emile Zola.

jaRDin DES pL antES The Jardin des Plantes is France’s main botanical garden and is located in the 5th arrondissement. The garden houses the National Museum of Natural History and a zoo that was founded in 1795 with animals from the royal menagerie in Versailles. With 3 hectares devoted to horticultural displays of decorative plants you will discover a plethora of exotic plants, including Mexican and Australian greenhouses that display regional plants that are not native to France. It is also here where you will find the Rose Garden, created in 1990, it is home to hundreds of rose species and rose trees. w w w.wheretr aveler.c o m 13

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A BACCARAT EXPERIENCE BY SANDRA ISKANDER

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[AUGUST IN PAR IS] The Cristal Room Baccarat Restaurant

COLOURED GLASSES PHOTO © T DERON; CHAIR PHOTO © CLAUDE WEBER; CRYSTAL ROOM BACCARAT PHOTOS © JEROME MONDIERE; LA TABLE BACCARAT BY BE ALAIN DUCASSE © ROMAIN RICARD

An oversized chair with a Baccarat crystal base displayed on the ground floor of the mansion

T

his year marks the 250th anniversary of Baccarat, the iconic name in crystal making. To celebrate this incredible milestone, the luxury house’s gallery-museum in the heart of the French capital is hosting a retrospective exhibit, Baccarat. Les 250 ans (Baccarat. The 250 Years), showcasing 250 masterpieces that, over the past 250 years, have become iconic works of art. Housed in a former private mansion where Marie-Laure de Noailles was known to throw some of the most-talked about parties, the Baccarat headquarters, designed by designer extraordinaire, Philippe Starck, is a lavish space full of surprises. The mansion is home to a boutique, where you will find Baccarat’s crystal collections including daringly designed jewellery, a restaurant and of course the gallerymuseum space where the retrospective is being held. Distinguishing Baccarat from other houses specialising in crystal making is its use of vibrant and royal colours. Throughout the exhibit you will discover the dazzling crystal pieces in ruby red, Baccarat’s signature colour, emerald green and goblets decadently decorated in gold. And amongst the exhibited pieces, demonstrating the exceptional savoir-faire of the house is the Harcourt glass. Inspired by the monogrammed chalice commissioned by King Louis-Philippe, designed in 1841, it became one of the most favoured crystal glasses, notably used by, among others, Napoleon III and Pope Jean Paul II. Today, its flat cut pattern and its elegant stem have rendered it timeless and easily adaptable to any style of dinner table. Prolonging your Baccarat experience, plunging you into the world of fine dining with dazzling crystals, is the Cristal Room Baccarat restaurant, which is found on the first floor of the mansion. This exclusive restaurant is a magical table where, in a soft pink baroque décor, complete

with giant crystal chandeliers and candelabras, you are invited to experience the savoir-faire of both the crystal and culinary variety. Here you will sip champagne from a Baccarat flute while savouring dishes created by Michelin-starred chef Guy Martin and perfectly executed by chef Adrien Manac’h. The contemporary à la carte menu features dishes such as duck foie gras poached in Sangria and a golden roasted rack of lamb served with olives, a lemon confit and gravy. The restaurant has also created the Baccarat 250 Years set menu, which features the signature dessert, the Exquisite Harcourt, served in Baccarat’s emblematic Harcourt glass, perfectly rounding up your Baccarat experience, and the perfect way to celebrate this renowned house. BACCARAT GALLERYMUSEUM 11 place des Etats-Unis (16th), 01 40 22 11 00

The Exquisite Harcourt dessert served in Baccarat’s iconic glass

CRISTAL ROOM BACCARAT Reservations are advised 01 40 22 11 10 Free access to the exhibit is granted to patrons of the restaurant after their lunch or dinner.

Through to the 23rd of the month, Printemps is helping Baccarat celebrate its 250th birthday by dressing 6 of the department store’s windows in decadent Baccarat pieces. The famous department store is also welcoming La Table Baccarat by BE Alain Ducasse, an ephemeral restaurant featuring a striking crystal chandelier. 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 42 82 50 00

La Table Baccarat by BE Alain Ducasse at Printemps

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CHARMING

CHANTILLY L

ocated in the town of Chantilly, less than an hour away from Paris is the historical Château de Chantilly. The estate, which comprises of two buildings, the Petit Château and the Grand Château, is a marvellous escape to discover France’s history. The Grand Château, destroyed during the French Revolution and was later rebuilt in the 1870s, features the Chapel, dedicated to Saint Louis, it was built in 1882 and stands where the old chapel once stood before being destroyed. The Château also features the Grand Apartments, the Condé Museum as well as the Horse Museum and the lush French garden designed by André Le Nôtre.

The Great Stables

The Grand Apartments of the Château de Chantilly showcase the opulent settings of the eighteenth century when the Princes of Bourbon-Condé used to host receptions. When visiting the Château, you can walk through these grand spaces that feature masterpieces of art as well as discover the charming Monkey Room. This “boudoir” is covered with Christophe Huet murals that show monkeys in a number of different situations, with one scene showing humans serving the monkeys. Covered with allegories of science and art, namely chemistry, sculpture and hunting, the Monkey Room is also seen as a representation of the five senses. The Condé Museum is the Château’s

The Château’s art gallery

breathtaking art gallery, boasting one of the finest collections of paintings in France, it is sprawled over several rooms and exhibits over 800 master paintings, tapestries and works of art. The museum’s exceptional collection, which includes works by Delacroix, Raphael and Ingres, places the space as second to the Louvre as the museum with the largest and wealthiest collections of paintings. Surrounding the historical Château are the equally famous gardens including the French garden created by André Le Nôtre, the gardener who also created the grandiose gardens at the Château de Versailles. Featuring dazzling water mirrors that reflect the sky, fountains and the largest water expanse of all the gardens designed by Le Nôtre, the French garden is simply breathtaking and is easy to see why Le Nôtre regarded it as his favourite accomplishment. The Château also overlooks the Chantilly Racecourse, where the Prix de Diane is held every year, as well as the Great Stables that houses the Horse Museum. Louis-Henri de Bourbon, the seventh prince of Condé, believing he would be reincarnated as a horse, commissioned architect Jean Aubert to build

THE GREAT STABLES AND ART GALLERY PHOTOS © GARY OTTE; CHATEAU DE CHANTILLY © JEAN LOUIS AUBERT

BY SANDRA ISKANDER

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THE GREAT STABLES AND ART GALLERY PHOTOS © GARY OTTE; CHATEAU DE CHANTILLY © JEAN LOUIS AUBERT

[AUGUST IN PAR IS]

Château Hôtel de Montvillargenne’s private terrace

DINING IN CHANTILLY The Château de Chantilly the grand stables to be worthy of his rank. Miraculously surviving the Revolution, the stables remain today as a unique historical site and where exhilarating equestrian shows are held under its dome. This season, through to the 26th of October, the stables are hosting Kavallisté, a new show that will take you on a voyage to Corsica, to an unforgettable adventure, where the horses and the riders take you to discover the mysteries of the island with a spectacular musical show. Meanwhile, at the museum, which was inaugurated last year, you can discover the important role horses played from the beginning of civilisations. You will see the evolution of the horse as well as the races of horses around the world, and aptly see paintings, sculptures and equestrian equipment, all demonstrating the key roles horses play, in the estate that is known around the world for its strong link to horses.

Any trip to Chantilly would be incomplete without tasting the town’s specialty, the famous Chantilly cream. On the Château de Chantilly estate, in the Chinese-English Garden of the Hameau that features quaint cottages and the Grand Canal, is where you will find the Park Restaurant. Here, where the famed whipped cream was born, you can enjoy seasonal desserts served with the authentic Chantilly cream. Le Hameau, Château de Chantilly, 03 44 57 46 21 A five-minute cab ride from the Château de Chantilly will have you at the Château Hôtel de Montvillargenne, which recently just celebrated its 100th anniversary and boasts a fine dining restaurant complete with its own private terrace, ideal for an al fresco summer night dining experience. The restaurant,

You can get to Chantilly by taking the RER D from Châtelet - Les Halles then take a cab from the station to the estate. Visit www.domainedechantilly.com/en for all information on opening times, show times and entry fares.

A dish of pollock fish with spring vegetables as served at Dolce Chantilly’s Donatello Restaurant

Le Vilargène, serves a contemporary menu with dishes such as a refreshing papaya and avocado millefeuille, duck filet served with a Thai-style salad and the chef also suggests preparing your choice of fish just the way you like it, grilled, steamed or seared and served with seasonal vegetables. 6 ave François-Mathet, 60270 GouvieuxChantilly, 03 44 62 37 37 Reservations are advised. Another great dining experience is to be had at Donatello Restaurant and Bar at the Dolce Chantilly. The “bistronomic” table offers freshly prepared dishes created by chef Dorian Wicart who has created the Le D and the Le Dolce Carte Blanche menus, which are adapted to seasonal market produce. Route d’Apremont-Vineuil St Firmin, 60500 Chantilly, 03 44 58 47 57 Reservations are advised. Meanwhile, La Table du Connétable, the Relais & Châteaux Auberge du Jeu de Paume’s gourmet restaurant that was recently awarded its second Michelin star, awaits with a royal culinary experience. Overlooking the Château de Chantilly’s gardens, the elegant dining room features large windows, giving you a front row seat to Le Nôtre’s masterpiece, as you enjoy a cuisine delicately prepared by chef Arnaud Faye with a contemporary twist to traditional recipes. 4 rue du Connétable, 60500 Chantilly, 03 44 65 50 05 Reservations are highly recommended.

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W H E R E PA R I S

THE GUIDE SHOPPING BY SA N D R A ISK A N D ER

HOLE IN ONE British fashion designer Giles Deacon has designed a capsule collection for French golf clothing brand Bent Criss. The quirky collection features pants, shorts and shirts as well as jackets and t-shirts all colourfully detailed with golf balls. For anyone who thought golf is boring this will definitely, and very fashionably, change their mind. The Bent Criss Designed by Giles collection is available at Chic n Well, 98 rue Saint Denis (1st)

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[SHOPPING]

Punk Rock by Sandro French ready-to-wear brand Sandro pays homage to New York group Sonic Youth with a capsule collection just for him. The alternative rock band’s spirit emblazons the t-shirts, sweaters and beanies that make up the collection, with names like Day Dream, Dirty and Confusion given to each model. 47 rue des Francs Bourgeois (4th), 01 49 96 56 55

BOLD BEACHWEAR

High-end Brazilian swimsuit brand Adriana Degreas designs anything but simple bikinis. The designer who has mastered the art of creating luxury beachwear focuses on making pieces that fit and flatter your body elegantly without compromising your fashion sense. The edgy and at times quirky designs include this bandeau bikini with statement-making velvet on tulle appliqué. Available exclusively at upmarket department store Le Bon Marché.

CHIC KIDS This season Chloé has little girls dressed in pleated and frilly dresses, bringing out the girly princess in every little lady. The collection features this pleated tulle dress (left) with soft pink sequins and a mustard coloured summer dress. Meanwhile, Little Marc Jacobs has little boys dressed in cute board shorts and tank tops in blue, white and red hues. Both brands are available at Atelier Courcelles, 142 rue de Courcelles (17th), 01 47 64 53 32 w w w.wheretr aveler.c o m 19

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W H E R E PA R I S

A TOUCH OF COLOUR PEEK-A-BOO Cover your eyes with these manicured hands. The fun sunglasses are designed by Jeremy Scott. Available at JLC Opticien, 18 rue Marbeuf (8th), 01 58 12 06 72

Add vibrant hues to your outfit with Hipanema’s colourful bracelets. Available at Le 104 104 rue de Longchamp (16th), 01 47 04 22 70

FOR HER

WHERE’S WALLY? Play the famous game of finding Wally with a pair of Havaianas that hides the popular character wearing his signature red and white striped shirt on the beach. Available at Galeries Lafayette

TROPICAL TOUCH Wear summer with this breezy summer dress from Molly Bracken. Available at Galeries Lafayette

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[SHOPPING]

STEP INTO COOL Complete your casual chic look with a pair of sneakers from French brand Piola. Available at Kiliwatch

WORLD CUP FEVER Wear your love of soccer on your sleeve with this pair of diamond and black ceramic soccer ball cufflinks from Cartier. 154 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 40 74 01 27

CARTIER CUFFLINKS PHOTO © VINCENT WULVERYCK © CARTIER 2012

FOR HIM

MUSICAL MOMENT TOUR DE GOLD Always win the race with this limited edition gold Martone Cycling Company bike. Available exclusively at La Vallée Village

Tune out the rest of the world and listen to your favourite songs with Yamaha’s HPH-M82 headphones. Available at Fnac

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SHOP STOP

W H E R E L U X U R Y [ S H O P P I N G ] C H A M P S - É LY S É E S - M O N T A I G N E

ARC DE TRIOMPHE

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CHARLES DE GAULLE - ÉTOILE

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Guy Laroche❁ Diane Von Furstenberg ❁ Charles

SHOP STOP

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Tara Jarmon❁ ❁Givenchy ❁Chaumet Kusmi Tea ❁ RU❁Beretta EP IE Ann Tuil ❁ RR

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❁Versace Dior ❁ ❁Salvatore Ferragamo Caron❁ ❁ Quicksilver ❁ ❁ Akris Dinh van❁ Givenchy ❁ Adidas ❁Chanel ❁Fendi ❁ Banana Republic Zadig ❁ Chanel❁ ❁Saint Laurent Chloé❁❁ & Voltaire Loewe ❁ Barbara Bui ❁❁ ❁ ❁❁ Ralph Lauren Weleda ❁Gucci ❁ Dolce&Gabbana T L Les Champs d’Or Blumarine VE SE S.T.Dupont O ❁ O Elie Saab .R LIN

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SHOP STOP

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A unique moment in a marvellous place. Weleda, the first organic and natural cosmetic brand, invites you to discover its massages and product line in its wellness space. Enter into the peaceful and natural universe of Weleda with its very contemporary design.

❁ Swarovski ❁Bang & Olufsen ❁ GrandOptical

Hugo Boss❁

C AR

63 ave des Champs-Elysées - Paris 8th Tel: 01 42 25 67 31 www.anntuil.com

Lancel❁ Dinh Van❁

RUE BALZAC

76 ave des Champs Elysées - Paris 8th Tel: 01 42 56 18 53 www.tissot.ch; E-shop: www.tissotshop.com

Ann Tuil is a multi-brand boutique carrying exceptional accessories ranging from shoes to bags and watches (Michael Kors, Longchamp, Kenzo, Marc by marc Jacob’s, Repetto, Moschino, UGG, ASH...). Ann Tuil has the privilege of offering you a 10 % discount upon presentation of this magazine for items that you purchase (without red dot). Open sunday.

ND LA

TISSOT BOUTIQUE The first European Tissot Flagship store. Discover the largest Tissot watch collection available in Paris with more than 500 references from their traditional watch collection such as the Le Locle Automatic to the most innovative watches with the T-Touch Expert.

ANN TUIL

❁Cartier ❁Montblanc

EA U

AVENUE D

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10 avenue Franklin Delano Roosevelt - Paris 8th Tel: 01 53 96 06 15 www.espace-weleda.fr

22 W H E R E Pa r i s i aU G U s T 2014

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T I S S OT L U X U RY AU TO M AT I C . P OW E R M AT I C 8 0 M OV E M E N T, O F F I C I A L LY C H R O N O M E T E R - C E R T I F I E D BY T H E C O S C (CONTRÔLE OFFICIEL SUISSE DES CHRONOMÈTRES), O F F E R I N G U P TO 8 0 HOU RS O F P OW E R R E S E RV E W IT H A 3 16 L STA I N L E S S ST E E L C AS E . I N N OVATO RS BY T R A D I T I O N .

T ISSOT.CH B O U T I Q U E S T I S S OT 76 , AV E N U E D E S C H A M P S - E LY S É E S – 7 5 0 0 8 PA R I S G A L E R I E D E S A R C A D E S , AV E N U E D E S C H A M P S - E LY S É E S – 7 5 0 0 8 PA R I S C E N T R E C O M M E R C I A L L E S 4 T E M P S, N I V E AU 2 – 9 2 0 9 2 PA R I S L A D É F E N S E

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RUE ANJOU ❁Saint Laurent ❁Boucheron ❁Givenchy ❁Hermès

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SHOP STOP

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RUE SAINT-HO NORÉ

RUE DU MONT -THABOR

RUE DE RIVOLI

❁Chanel ❁ Audemars

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16 rue Royale - Paris 8th Tel: 01 42 60 21 77 www.wempe.fr

❁ Zwilling

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24 W H E R E Pa r i s i aU G U s T 2014

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❁Cotélac

OPÉRA Kusmi Tea

D E U ❁ N

RUE DE LA SOURDIÈRE

RUE SAINT ROCH

The Kooples❁

E LA P AIX

RUE DES PETITS CHAMPS

SHOP STOP

ORÉ

RUE DE RIVOLI ❁

PLACE DU MARCHÉ SAINT-HONORÉ

❁Paraboot

PRINTEMPS DU LOUVRE

Carrousel du Louvre 99 rue de Rivoli – Paris 1st Tel : 01 76 77 41 00 www.printemps.com

❁Balenciaga

❁St Honoré Paris ❁Jo Malone ❁Bonpoint

Colette❁ Chantal Thomass❁ Cosmoparis❁ Mulberry ❁ Peuterey ❁

CARROUSEL DU LOUVRE

Printemps is entering the Carrousel du Louvre with a 2,500 sqm new store entirely dedicated to luxury. Discover this new area celebrating the famous French know-how in the heart of the Louvre Museum and showcasing the most prestigious accessories, beauty, watches and jewellery brands. Open 7 days a week, even on Sundays.

Talbot Runhof Kiehl’s ❁

366 rue Saint-Honoré - Paris 1st Tel: 01 40 20 90 98 www.mikihouse.fr

❁Goyard ❁Dodo ❁Baldinini ❁Moynat

SAIN T-HO N

Church’s❁ Paule Ka❁

RUE D

ANOVA RUE DANIELLE CAS

❁ Dubail

RUE

MIKI HOUSE Superb quality and unique style are the hallmarks of this Japanese house of children’s fashion and style. Every collection is conceived with the child in mind. Fashioned in workshops in Japan, the clothing is made from fine fabrics and imbued with practical, functional and unique touches. Open Mon-Sat 10am - 7pm.

RUE D AUNO U

ES CIN PU CA

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Piguet ❁ ❁ Hedgren ❁ Roberto ❁ RUE CAM BON ❁ Cavalli ❁ Tom Ford Messika❁ Hervé Léger ❁Jimmy Choo Morabito❁ ❁ Hugo Boss Wolford❁ ❁Brooks Brothers ❁Armani Chloé❁ Dior ❁ 2 DsQuared ❁ ❁ Miki House Tumi❁ ❁Omega Arije ❁de Grisogono J.M. ❁ Wine ❁ ❁ by One RUE C Weston Chopard ASTIG LIONE ❁ ❁ Lacoste PLACE VENDÔME ❁ Guerlain

JARDIN DES TUILERIES

S RIN

❁Lanvin ❁Bottega Veneta ❁Loro Piana ❁Prada Cerruti ❁Pinko 1881 ❁ Gucci ❁ ❁ ❁

RUE

Les Dandys ❁ IER U PASQ

U ATH

The renowned German watchmaker has been satisfying customers for over 135 years. Featuring a fine selection of stylish jewellery, luxury watches and chronometers.

Burberry

RUE ROYALE Chanel Dior ❁ Milliaud ❁ ❁ ❁ ❁Vertu Royal Poiray Wempe ❁Ralph Quartz Michael Kors ❁ ❁ Lancaster Lauren Escada ❁ ❁ Gianfranco Lotti Kenzo ❁ Valentino ❁ ❁ RUE SAINT-FLORENTIN Max Mara Jacquard Césaire ❁ ❁Francais Hublot ❁ ❁Longchamp Chronopassion ❁ ❁Repetto Maje❁ ❁John Galliano

CONCORDE

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&Jones

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❁ Capelstore

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GALERIE

Lanvin❁

Janssens & Janssens

F Le aur Pa é ge Ch an el

SHOP STOP

RUE DE SURÈNE

RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HONOR É

Roger Vivier❁ Valentino❁ Glashütte Original ❁ Porsche Design❁ Chanel❁ AMERICAN Tod’s❁ EMBASSY Cartier ❁ RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS

14/07/2014 09:27


If you are looking for a wide selection of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery, you only need to keep one name in mind. For more than 130 years, the name “WEMPE” has stood for the utmost expertise in the art of making jewellery and timepieces. We offer a unique selection of valuable treasures at 28 Wempe showrooms world-wide. We are especially proud because for more than a century we have been privileged to contribute to the grand feelings that our customers express when they purchase jewellery or timepieces. Our pieces of jewellery uphold international standards and are born in our own atelier. This is true for unusual one-of-a-kind items as well as for our diverse assortment of classic pieces with brilliant-cut diamonds. And a century-old friendship links us with the world’s foremost watch manufactories. You will fi nd WEMPE showrooms at the loveliest locations in great European metropolises and in New York City. Each shop also offers service or advice whenever you require it, so you can be certain that we will always be available to meet your individual needs. We cordially invite you to discover an abundance of interesting new items and exclusive special models at one of Europe’s leading jewellers. We look forward to your visit!

Paris, 16, rue Royale, T +33.1.42 60 21 77 HAMBURG LOND ON PARIS NEW YORK WEMPE.COM

We accept all credit cards.

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RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HONOR É

SHOP STOP

W H E R E L U X U R Y [ S H O P P I N G ] F A U B O U R G S A I N T- H O N O R É

Puiforcat

VA RD

Walter Steiger❁ MATIGNON

Steiger

BO UL E

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❁ Emanuel Berg

✴Bristol

Azzaro❁ Vhernier ❁ F.P. Journe ❁

VHERNIER

Pierre Cardin

Sublime jewellery of precious gems and gold from this Italian brand. Each piece is unique, hand-made and influenced in its form by trends in modern and contemporary art.

63, rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré - Paris 8th Tel: 01 40 17 93 15 - paris@vhernier.fr www.vhernier.com

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❁ Bcbgmaxazria

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RUE DE RIVOLI

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❁ Longchamp ❁Repetto

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RUE SAINT-FLORENTIN

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Gucci Chanel Dior RUE TRONCHET ❁ ❁Vertu Wempe ❁ Ralph ❁ ❁ Lauren Eres JB Guanti ❁ Lancaster ❁ ❁Gianfranco Lotti ❁ Swarovski Marella ❁Max Mara ❁ ❁ Durance Kenzo

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❁ Oliver Grant ❁ Baccarat

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❁Sotheby’s ❁Milady ❁Chopard ❁Sonia Rykiel ❁Poiray ❁Christian Louboutin ❁Etro ❁Pomellato ❁Barbara Bui

❁Saint Laurent

Milliaud Royal Poiray Quartz Michael Kors ❁ Escada ❁ CONCORDE Valentino ❁

5 rue Royale - Paris 8th Tel: 0 1 42 65 06 77 www.maisonlejaby.com

M

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❁Bally ❁Blumarine ❁Burberry ❁Brunello Cucinelli ❁Ermenegildo Zegna ❁Salvatore Ferragamo ❁

Roger Vivier❁ Heurgon❁ Glashütte Original❁ Porsche Design❁ Chanel❁ AMERICAN Tod’s❁ EMBASSY Cartier ❁

JANSSENS & JANSSENS

The Salon Privé Maison Lejaby Couture offers you 100% French and 100% hand-made lingery, beachwear and sexy inderwear/outerwear pieces, which are numbered. The Exceptional quality level results from the Expertise of couturiers-corsetmakers. Collections up to E cup for optimal Confort and Elegance.

E RU

RUE

RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HONOR É

Apostrophe❁

MAISON LEJABY

❁ ❁ Caron

RUE DE SURÈNE

SHOP STOP

Frette❁

3 rue d’Anjou - Paris 8th (Corner 46 Fbg St Honoré) Tel: 01 42 65 04 00 www.janssensparis.com

S

CÉ BA

Montagut

RUE DE L’ÉLYSÉE

In the very heart of the Faubourg St-Honoré discover more than 3,000 different clothing fabrics, all extraordinary, and many used by haute couture designers. Owner Françoise Janssens can also recommend one of 40 local seamstresses.

❁ Miu-Miu

14/07/2014 09:29


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BUCHERER BUCHERERPARIS PARIS

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12 boulevard 12 boulevard desdes Capucines Capucines – Paris – Paris 9th9th Tel:Tel: 01 70 01 99 70 18 9988 18 88 www.bucherer.com www.bucherer.com

RUERD UEE DE PROPVROV ENCEENCE

Printemps Printemps Mode Mode

❁Maje ❁Maje

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In the In the heart heart of the of the Opera Opera district, district, between between Place Place Vendôme Vendôme andand Boulevard Boulevard Haussmann, Haussmann, 2 2 thethe House House Bucherer Bucherer unveils unveils a sublime a sublime 2200m 2200m space space showcasing showcasing thethe most most beautiful beautiful Swiss Swiss names names in watchmaking. in watchmaking. TheThe largest largest boutique boutique in the in the world world dedicated dedicated to timepieces, to timepieces, thisthis is the is the Parisian Parisian shop shop stop. stop.

©Agence Pustetto

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Christofle Baccarat BaccaratChristofle IWCIWC ❁ ❁ ❁Repetto ❁Repetto Cartier Cartier ❁ Lalique ❁ Lalique❁ ❁ In this In this newnew space, space, Lalique Lalique unveils unveils 200200 pieces pieces of fine of fine Mellerio Mellerio❁ ❁ Diesel Diesel Montblanc Montblanc X❁Dinh jewellery jewellery as well as well as aas selection a selection of iconic of iconic pieces pieces of the of the Jimmy Jimmy Choo Choo IXAIDinh vanvan Panerai Panerai ❁ ❁A ❁ Hugo Hugo Boss Boss Cave Cave Bernard Bernard P ❁PKorloff jewellery jewellery house house such such as the as the Gourmande Gourmande ringring andand thethe ❁Korloff VanVan Cleef Cleef ❁ ❁ Wine Wine ❁ ❁ ❁ Magrez ❁ Magrez A LAFolli Brooks Brooks Brothers Brothers EMascottes Mascottes cufflinks. cufflinks. Follie Follie ❁Folli & Arpels & Arpels ❁ ❁L ❁ by One by One R Armani Armani ❁ ❁ ❁ ❁ De De Fursac Fursac E E ❁ ❁ ❁Breitling Hugo V Hugo D Jaquet D❁Breitling 20 rue 20 rue de ladePaix la Paix - Paris - Paris 2nd2nd Louis Louis Vuitton Vuitton Dior Dior ❁ ❁ Droz DrozBoss Boss E ❁ E ❁Jaquet HA Cartier Cartier Tel:Tel: 01 42 01 65 42 03 65 04 03 04 Miki Miki House House U U ❁ Harry ❁ Harry Winston Winston U R❁RDaum Dubail Dubail ❁Daum D www.lalique.com www.lalique.com Omega Omega ❁ ❁ ❁ ❁ Bvlgari ❁Vacheron ❁Vacheron Constantin Constantin ❁ ❁ E ❁ ❁ Bvlgari ❁ ❁ Loding Loding ❁ ❁ RU ❁ ❁ ❁Charvet ❁Charvet ❁ Gas ❁ Gas Bijoux Bijoux ❁ ❁ ❁Boucheron ❁Boucheron Rolex Rolex ❁ ❁ ❁ ❁ Van Cleef Cleef & Arpels & Arpels ❁ ❁Van ❁ ❁ ❁ ❁ 2 DsQuared DsQuared ❁2 ❁ Jaeger❁Blancpain ❁Blancpain❁❁❁MisterChrono Jaeger❁ MisterChrono ❁ ❁ ❁ ❁LeCoultre PLACE LeCoultre PLACE ❁Chanel ❁Chanel Kusmi Kusmi Tumi Tumi VENDÔME VENDÔME ❁ ❁ Chopard Kusmi Kusmi ❁Piaget ❁Piaget Chopard RU Tea R Tea Tea Tea J.M.J.M. ❁ ❁ ❁ ❁ ❁Chaumet ❁Chaumet E U❁ E ❁ Weston Weston ❁Hublot ❁Buccellati ❁Buccellati❁Hublot ❁Patek ❁Patek Philippe Philippe PLACEPLACE ❁Opera ❁Opera ❁ Frey Frey ❁ ❁❁ DA DA DU DU Mikimoto Mikimoto NI NI MARCHÉ MARCHÉ Wille Wille E E EL EL Gallery Gallery ST-HONORÉ ST-HONORÉ LE LE N N Dior Dior O O ❁ ❁I I C C ES CIN PU ES CA CIN PU CA

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RUE D’ARGE

247-251 247-251 rue Saint-Honoré rue Saint-Honoré - Paris - Paris 1st 1st Tel:Tel: 01 42 01 86 42 54 86 66 54 66 www.dsquared2.com www.dsquared2.com

Honoré Honoré ❁ Saint ❁ Saint Jo Malone ❁ Jo ❁Malone ❁ Bonpoint ❁ Bonpoint Colette Colette ❁ ❁ Chantal Chantal Thomass Thomass ❁ ❁ Pataugas Pataugas ❁ ❁ ❁ ❁ Mulberry Mulberry

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Talbot Talbot Runhof Runhof

RUE D’ARGE

With With a renowned a renowned reputation reputation for quality for quality andand Italian Italian craftsmanship, craftsmanship, Dsquared2 Dsquared2 designs, designs, manufactures manufactures andand distributes distributes highly highly desirable desirable products products such such as as men’s men’s andand women’s women’s ready-to-wear, ready-to-wear, accessories, accessories, leather leather goods, goods, shoes, shoes, eyewear eyewear andand fragrances fragrances for for men men andand women. women.

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❁Mephisto ❁Mephisto

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SHOP STOP

W H E R E L U X U R Y [ S H O P P I N G ] S A I N T- G E R M A I N

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French multi-brand boutique Gab & Jo is a onestop shop for accessories and fun home décor objects. The colourful boutique showcases the best France has to offer with every item carefully selected by the owners. A perfect address if you are looking for original souvenirs.

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SHOP STOP

The Kooples ❁ Bowen ❁

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Elsa ❁ Vanier

❁ Cassina

Gab&Jo

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Zadig & Voltaire

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Dot-Drops

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Jacquard Francais

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Saint Laurent

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❁ Spa L’Occitane

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Robert Clergerie

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8 rue des Canettes - Paris 6th Tel: 01 43 54 62 15 www.mydotdrops.com

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DOT-DROPS® DOT-DROPS® is the brand of choice for the “happy few” of elite travellers. The philosophy of the French manufacturer is to continuously strive to achieve harmony between design and functionality. DOTDROPS® creations are a solid marriage of colours, design and unexpected materials. Exclusive: you can customize your suitcase at the boutique and make your travel experience unique!

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Robert Clergerie

Rolex❁ Hackett❁ Kenzo❁ Ten Clothes

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Vanessa Tugendhaft ❁

Armani ❁

Stefanel❁

Saint Laurent ❁ ❁ ❁ Sportmax ❁ ❁ Marina Maje ❁ Tod’s Rinaldi ❁ Alain Mikli ❁ Prada

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❁ Paul Smith

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2 rue du Sabot, Paris 6th Tel: 01 42 22 16 60 www.tenclothes.com

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On a typical street in the Saint-Germain-desPrés neighbourhood is found this exclusive boutique for babies and children. Joyful and colourful fashion, featuring fabrics of fine quality, contemporary clothing, thought out and elaborated for the wellbeing of your young ones. Get 10% on your next purchase when you present this page.

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28 rue Jacob - Paris 6th Tel: 09 84 53 58 43

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16/07/2014 14:21


W h e r e pa r i s [ s h o p p i n g ]

ANgELA CApUTI gIUggIU Italian jewellery designer Angela Caputi first set up her workshop in Florence in 1975 where she created colourful and original pieces, showing her unique craftsmanship. Season after season the designer continues to imagine new pieces that reflect her inspirations, and in her gallery-like jewellery boutique here in the fashion capital you will find her latest collection, Lucchetti, meaning padlock in Italian. The line features sexy necklaces of black chains with decorative padlocks, creating a very sexy twist to any outfit. 15 Galerie Véro-Dodat (1st), 01 40 39 01 51

MULTI-BRAND BOUTIQUES COLETTE The city’s original multi-brand store that is still on the cutting edge, with designer clothing, shoes, makeup and perfume, gadgets and books. There is also a café/ water bar in the basement. 213 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.55.35.33.90. M° Tuileries L’ECLAIREUR There’s no sign outside this ultra-hip concept boutique carrying cutting-edge designers including Viktor & Rolf and Carol Christian Poell. 10 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th), 01.53.43.03.70. M° Concorde KILIWATCH This is the place for cool clothes. Vintage articles are jam-packed on racks, laid out on the floor or stacked high on shelves amongst some of the hottest brand names. Find the fabulous graphic arts bookshop in front of the shop selling the latest editions. 64 rue Tiquetonne (2nd), 01.42.21.17.37. M° Etienne Marcel MERCI Housed in a former factory in the evertrendy Marais district, this boutique

Montaigne Market

concept store stocks an eclectic mix of vintage, designer and fabulous, often one-of-a-kind items for the home. There is a flower shop and a café afloat with used books. Brought to you by the founders of the Bonpoint children’s line, some profits are donated to a charity benefiting children in Madagascar. 111 blvd Beaumarchais (3rd),

01.42.77.00.33. M° St-Sébastien Froissart MONTAIGNE MARKET A novelty on this street of couture houses, this multi-brand boutique offers hot new labels as well as popular it brands. 57 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.42.56.58.58. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt w w w.wheretr aveler.c o m 29

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W h e r e pa r i s

KeepiNG TiMe B Y PaT r i C i a V a L i C E N T i

The Asian Games are set to kick off for the 17th time on September 19th in Incheon, South Korea, running to October 4th. Swiss watchmaker Tissot is the Official Timekeeper for the event, providing precision timing for the 28 Olympic sports and the 8 non-Olympic disciplines in competition at the games including athletics, football, rugby and tennis. The Asian Games, which are held every four years, follow the sports programme of the Olympic Games and also feature disciplines from the Asian continent, a case in point being sepaktakraw, kick volleyball played with a rattan ball. It is precisely these sports that present an exciting challenge to Tissot, for the timing techniques need to be adapted to these disciplines, a task which requires innovation, one of the house’s great specialties. Tissot will mark the games in Paris at the keeper of precious timepieces, Bucherer, the elegant multi-brand watch boutique. On each floor of the store, Tissot will present a sport through visuals and timepieces highlighting three of the disciplines in competition at the Asian Games. Fencing will be showcased on the ground floor,

basketball on the lower ground floor and rugby on the first floor. The presentations will be held from August 1st through to August 30th. The special limited edition watches that Tissot has brought out for the games will also be available at Bucherer. The elegant Tissot T-Touch II Asian Games 2014 has a quartz movement inside its titanium case. Water resistant to 10 bar (100 metres), it sports a handsome red bracelet. Designed for athletes with features like a chronograph, countdown timer, compass, dual time zones, a thermometer and back lighting,

the model is limited to 2014 pieces worldwide. Meanwhile, the Tissot Luxury Automatic Gent Asian Games has a stainless steel case set off by a stainless steel grey bracelet with a handsome anthracite dial with a honeycomb effect. Water resistant to 10 bar, the watch contains the revolutionary Powermatic 80 movement with a power reserve of 80 hours. This model, too, is limited to 2014 pieces. Bucherer is open from 8am to 8pm. 12 blvd des Capucines (9th), 01 70 99 18 88

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[SHopping]

WATCHES FOR FREE SPIRITS ON THE MOVE Raymond Weil brings the elegance of gold and black to the house’s latest addition to its Freelancer Collection first launched in 2007. The urbane and contemporary watch beats to the rhythm of a mechanical automatic movement, and the timepiece takes you on a journey into the depths of watch making know-how through its visible balance wheel revealed at 12 o’clock. Black dominates with a black lacquered dial punctuated by rose gold-plated indexes and luminescent barrel-like hands all nestled in a 42mm case. The model is also available in a daintier version for ladies with its 29mm case set with 50 diamonds. Raymond Weil, one of the last remaining independent family-owned and family-operated watch making companies, created the Freelancer range in honour of free spirit personalities wanting to remain in control of their own destiny. – P.V. Available at Printemps, 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 42 82 45 10

venez avec vos yeux, nous nous occupons du reste 7 4 r u e d e s s a in t s p è r e s , p a r is 7 è m e tel : +33 (0)1 45 49 40 00 - email : boutique.saintsperes@mikli.com

correction et distinction

v i n ta g e C o u t u r e C l o t h i n g , a C C e s s o r i e s a n d j e w e l l e ry

superb secondhand designer clothes and accessories for women are to be found in this elegant boutique:

Chanel, Prada, hermes, dior and more are showCased.

62 ave Théophile Gautier, Paris 16th (M° Eglise d’Auteuil) Tel. 01 45 25 00 00 www.dresscode-paris.com

Enjoy a 10% discount upon presentation of this page.

o Au PEn g us in t

Laurent provides you with a warm ViP welcome and expertly guides you through two floors filled with luxurious finds.

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W H E R E PA R I S [ S H O P P I N G ]

JEWELLERY BY IMPRESSIONISM He was greatly inspired by his gardens in Giverny and by the picturesque small town of Honfleur, and now Claude Monet’s paintings have inspired a new jewellery collection by Frey Wille. The collection, which includes a clasp bangle, earrings and a ring, captures the artist’s famous water lilies, lilies and irises in vibrant coloured enamel. Available at all Frey Wille boutiques including 167 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 42 60 47 47

JUST FOR HER

Gleenway have released a sexy and chic electronic cigarette just for the ladies. The dainty “vapoteuse” are sexily decorated with Swarovski crystals, making them more of a fabulous accessory for your glamorous soirees. Available in girly pink and seductive black, the Gleenway vapoteuses are filled with a 100% natural liquid that comes in different flavours including fruity apple. Available at Cigusto boutiques including 88 rue du Commerce (15th), 01 45 31 39 65

BACK TO THE 90s

Stéphanie Allerme, the designer behind French jewellery brand Ma Demoiselle Pierre, has created a capsule couture collection to mark the brand’s 3rd anniversary and the 1st anniversary of her first boutique. The Back to the Nineties collection features a punk element of the 90s, when, she remembers as a teenager, she used to accessorise with safety pins and chains. The pieces include cuff bracelets, choker necklaces and rings, available in gold plated or palladium. 155 rue Amelot (11th), 06 76 68 72 48

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[SHOPPING]

shOpping time advertorial

moustaches

durance

A city centre store dedicated to cats and dogs where you will find in a space of 150m2 more than 3500 high-quality products for your pets’ every day needs as well as some original and unique products. Moustaches brings a new concept to pet shops with a large modern space and a warm and fun atmosphere.

For Durance, Provence is both a heritage and an inspiration. We compose a well-being universe of indoor fragrances, natural cosmetics and elegant perfumes. Our wide range of refined fragrances are elaborated by our master perfume-makers in Grasse.

32 rue des Archives, Paris 4th (M° Hôtel de Ville) 81 route de la Reine, 92100 Boulogne Billancourt Tel: +33 (0)1 42 71 05 21 www.moustaches.fr

Durance Paris IX 24 rue Vignon, Paris 9th / Tel: +33 (0)1 47 42 04 10 Durance Paris VI 8 rue de Sèvres, Paris 6th / Tel: +33 (0)1 45 44 08 74 www.durance.fr

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W h e r e pa r i s BEAUGRENELLE This elegant and luminous shopping centre

Printemps’s Beauty Salon

overlooking the Seine houses a fine selection of chic and elegant boutiques devoted to clothing, accessories and the home, along with food shops, restaurants and a cinema. This environmentally friendly complex has a green roof welcoming a bird refuge and beehives, green walls and a free shuttle boat links the centre with the Eiffel Tower. Mon-Sat 10am-9pm. Thurs until 10pm. Cinema and Restaurants: Mon-Sun 10am-midnight. 12 rue Linois (15th). M° Charles Michels BHV/MARAIS A department store known for its great homeware selection and appliances as well as a good selection of top brand names for women and children. Mon, Tues, Thurs, Fri 9:30am – 7:30pm, Wed 9:30am – 9pm, Sat 9:30am – 8pm. BHV Homme – a shop exclusively dedicated to men (36 rue de la Verrerie). 14 rue du Temple (4th), 01.42.74.90.00. M° Hôtel de Ville LE BON MARCHE The oldest department store in Paris and the only one on the Rive Gauche. Extremely chic, with a great selection of ready-to-wear, household goods, cosmetics and lingerie, all under a lovely

DeparTMeNT sTOres aND shOppiNG CeNTres

glass roof. And the entire basement floor is

floor, restaurants, wine bars and a tea room and

exclusive to Printemps, including the cult London

dedicated to men.

the cosmetics and perfume section offers 260

line Agent Provocateur. On the 6th and 7th floors

Mon-Sat 10am – 8pm, Thurs & Fri until 9pm.

different brands. Lafayette Homme – A separate

of the Printemps Beauty/Home store are fashions

24 rue de Sèvres (7th), 01.44.39.80.00.

building housing men’s fashion and accessories.

for children.

M° Sèvres-Babylone

Lafayette Maison – (Across the street) a home

Mon – Sat 9:35am – 8pm, Thurs until 8:45pm.

décor shop with sophisticated furnishings.

64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.50.00

LE CARROUSEL DU LOUVRE

Mon – Sat 9:30am – 8:00pm,

M° Havre-Caumartin

Art, beauty, technology, leather goods and more

Thurs until 9 pm.

are found under the famous inverted pyramid at

40 blvd Haussmann (9th),

PRINTEMPS DU LOUVRE

the Louvre in the Carrousel du Louvre. A unique

01.42.82.34.56.

Discover the new Printemps celebrating luxury

shopping venue, it brings together a collection of

M° Chaussée d’Antin-La Fayette

and French know-how in the heart of the

boutiques that are opened every day of the year.

Louvre Museum, showcasing the most

10am – 8pm, even on Sundays.

PRINTEMPS HAUSSMANN

prestigious accessories, beauty products,

99 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.43.16.47.10.

Printemps’ exquisite world of Luxury and

watches and jewellery brands.

M° Palais Royal – Musée du Louvre

Accessories, spread out over 3 floors, plays host

Open 7 days a week, 10am-8pm.

to a splendid collection of luxury houses and the

Carrousel du Louvre, 99 rue de Rivoli (1st),

CITADIUM

most sought-after labels. Printemps de l’Homme,

01.76.77.41.00.

A sports haven for all lovers of sportswear and

the very first to dedicate an entire shop to men,

M° Palais-Royal – Musée du Louvre

streetwear. Find everything from clothing to

houses six floors of menswear and a men’s salon.

accessories with original and cutting-edge

International Designers, an entire floor dedicated

LA VALLEE VILLAGE

designs.

to trendy new designers, is home to prestigious

A village-like shopping outlet on the city

Mon-Sat 10 am - 8 pm, Thurs till 9 pm.

fashion designers with the space created by

outskirts offering discounts of up to 60% on

50-56 rue Caumartin (9th), 01.55.31.74.00.

fashion visionary Maria Luisa Poumaillou.

a hundred luxury labels including Armani,

M° Havre-Caumartin

Printemps de la Beauté features two floors of

Burberry, Tumi and Ralph Lauren.

products and beauty supplies as well as a spa and

Mon-Sun 10am-8pm.

GALERIES LAFAYETTE

beauty salon. La Scent Room is a unique concept

Shopping Express Shuttle bus departs from

This elegant department store carries top

that offers only exclusive luxury brands that you

the centre of Paris twice a day at 9:30am and

brands including Chanel, Chloé and Gaultier.

won’t find anywhere else. Printemps de la Mode

12:30pm. 3 cours de la Garonne,

There’s a wonderful lingerie department, a new

is one floor entirely dedicated to shoes while

01.60.42.35.00. RER A4 to

children’s concept store that takes up an entire

Printemps de la Lingerie carries 80 labels – several

Val d’Europe (about 35min).

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[shopping]

BEAUTY BUZZ

French Riviera Colours By Terry’s summer collection, French Riviera is the sun and the surf in candycoloured packaging. Making up the collection is Cheek to Cheek, a water colour blush to give your cheeks a rosy glow, Tea to Tan, a water colour bronzer with tea extracts that will leave you with a sunkissed hue, and for your lips the Tint to Lip gloss is available in two colours, peachy Beach Game and pretty Pink Palace. 10 ave Victor Hugo (16th), 01 55 73 00 73

THIRDMAN The new name in unisex scents, Thirdman, brings four different “eau” to choose from, Monumentale, Nomade, Moderne and Profonde. The four scents are available in spray and splash versions, with the idea behind this new collection being to generously splash yourself with these refreshing scents, which can also be kept in the fridge for instant coolness. Eau Monumentale features notes of bergamot while Eau Nomade is more summery with notes of zesty lemon and blood oranges from Sicily. Eau Moderne is more of a softer scent with notes of iris root, with the fourth scent, Eau Profonde a muskier option with notes of amber. Available at Liquides, 9 rue de Normandie (3rd), 01 44 09 08 99

One-StOp ShOp Beauty havenS

A SWEET SCENT OF PARADISE Born in Paradise, Escada’s summer scent is a sweet mix of watermelon and guava with a heart note of coconut and pineapple. Smelling like a Pina Colada, the eau de toilette will transport you to a tropical island of French Polynesia in a spritz. Available at Sephora

SEPHORA Perfumes, cosmetics, beauty products, you might wind up spending the day here in this fabulous store filled not only with goods but plenty of services, too. You can have your nails, eyebrows and hair done, and then try out samples galore. 70-72 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.93.22.50. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt MARIONNAUD PARIS A fine selection of perfumes and cosmetics for men, women and children are the hallmarks of this glorious beauty haven. Gift sets, travel articles, make-up as well as exclusive products are among the great finds in this boutique where you can also get your make-up done during your beautifying shopping spree. 104 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.96.50.00. M° George V w w w.wheretr aveler.c o m 35

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W h e r e pa r i s

This MONThs TOp six spas

SPAS

LUSH SPA This soothing spa in the Marais district features products made from fresh and organic ingredients. Treatments include The Good Hour Massage, a deep tissue massage to treat aches and pains and The Spell, a spellbinding foot treatment that will have you walking on air. 18 rue Vieille du Temple (4th), 01.49.70.98.34. M° St. Paul SIX SENSES Enter this sanctuary to well-being doted with stunning architecture featuring the elements and an interior vertical garden. The spas cocoon rooms offer an extensive treatment menu including half-day sensory journeys and Asianbased rejuvenating treatments. 3 rue de Castiglione (1st), 01.43.16.10.10. Mº Tuileries SPA CINQ MONDES This spacious spa tucked away in a quiet courtyard offers an array of face and body treatments inspired by many cultures, including an Ayurvedic Indian massage, a revitalising Taoist massage and a Shiatsu massage. 6 sq de l’Opéra-Louis-Jouvet (9th), 01.42.66.00.60. Mº Opéra MY BLEND BY CLARINS Enjoy a wonderful beauty treatment in this spa by the French beauty company Clarins. Enjoy the Art of Touch signature treatment combing both face and body rituals to relax, revitalise and regenerate you. The spa dedicated to well-being is located inside the Le Royal Monceau hotel. 37 ave Hoche (8th), 01.42.99.88.99. M° Charles de Gaulle-Etoile SPA VALMONT This luxurious spa in the Hotel Le Meurice offers wonderful beautifying treatments like the Bulle Emotionelle gently releases tensions with a facial drainage technique restoring your eyes to their youthful look. The spa uses the prestigious products from the Swiss anti-ageing skincare specialists Valmont. 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.58.10.77. M° Tuileries 36 W H E R E Pa r i s i aU G U s T 2014

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[shopping]

25800_BTSP ANNONCE VERTIC_OK_BTS 27/12/1

Contemporary Asian Spa

RELAX LIKE ROYALTY The elegant Spa Guerlain du Trianon Palace Versailles is an ideal escape to become king or queen for a day. Luxuriously pamper yourself after visiting the royal Château de Versailles with a Voyage Sensoriel massage at the sprawling hotel spa that features 15 cabins. Awakening your body and your spirit, the new signature Guerlain massage works to relax you with slow movements and aims to awaken your senses with revitalising scents of oriental spices. 1 blvd de la Reine, 78000 Versailles, 01 30 84 51 40

The Art of Thaï Massage B

A N

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H A I

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P A

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A R I S

Thaï Massage Oil Massage Foot Massage Massage for 2 Hammam Body Scrub

Near Louvre Museum 5, rue Mandar - 75002 Paris + 33 1 40 28 00 80 M° Etienne Marcel (line 4) www.massage-thai-paris.fr O P E N D A I LY 1 1 A M T O 9 P M

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[address book]

shopping l u x u r y s e r v i c e at y o u r f i n g e r t i p s

Accessories Couleurs & CaChemire - 11 rue de Béarn (3rd), 09.51.59.43.21. Mº Chemin Vert/St-Paul duret paris - 14 ave George V (8th), 01.47.20.53.56. Mº George V le Carré d’enCre - 13bis rue des Mathurins (9th) , 01.53.05.81.61. M° Havre-Caumartin misterChrono - 23 rue Danielle Casanova (1st), 09.53.42.04.64. Mº Opéra montblanC - 152 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.44.20.07.70. Mº George V

children’s clothing & toys boites a musiQue anna Joliet - 9 rue de Beaujolais (1st), 01.42.96.55.13. Mº Pyramides bonpoint - 6 rue de Tournon (6th), 01.40.51.98.20. Mº Mabillon Catimini - 15 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.44.71.06.23. Mº Madeleine JaCadi - 17 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.42.65.84.98. Mº Madeleine Joué Club - 3-5 boulevard des Italiens (2nd), 01.53.45.41.41. Mº Tuileries

moustaChes - 32 rue des Archives (4th), 01.42.71.05.21. M° Hôtel de Ville

miki house - 366 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.40.20.90.98. Mº Tuileries

swarovski - 32 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.65.28.10. Mº Madeleine

petit bateau - 116 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.40.74.02.03. Mº George V

s.t. dupont - 58 ave Montaigne (8 ), 01.45.61.08.39. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

tartine et ChoColat - 84 rue du Fbg St.Honoré (8th), 01.45.62.44.04. Mº SaintPhilippe-du-Roule

th

vertu - 18 rue Royale (8th),01.42.86.56.66. Mº Madeleine

BeAuty spA & products l’artisan parfumeur - 2 rue de l’AmiralColigny (1st), 01.44.88.27.50. Mº Pont Neuf ban thai spa - 20 rue Dauphine (6th), 01.43.54.01.01. Mº Odéon espaCe weleda - 10 ave Franklin D. Roosevelt (8th), 01.53.96.06.15. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt Guerlain - 68 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.45.62.52.57. Mº George V lanCÔme - 29 rue du Fbg-St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.65.30.74. Mº Madeleine les Comptoirs de duranCe - 24 rue Vignon (9th), 01.47.42.04.10. Mº Madeleine l’oCCitane - 55 rue St-Louis en L’Ile (4th), 01.40.46.81.71. Mº Pont Marie m.a.C. - 76 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.76.05.99. M° George V make up for ever - 5 rue des FrancsBourgeois (4th), 01.42.71.23.19. M° St-Paul marionnaud paris - 104 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.96.50.00. M° George V salon Chistophe robin - Hotel Meurice, 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.40.20.02.83. M° Tuileries

Jean paul Gaultier - 44 ave George V (8th), 01.44.43.00.44. Mº George V karl laGerfeld - 194 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.42.22.74.99. Mº Rue du Bac kenZo - 27 blvd de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.61.04.14. M° Madeleine laCoste - 37 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.61.58.20. M° Opéra lanvin- 22 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th), 01.44.71.31.73. Mº Concorde la perla - 20 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th), 01.43.12.33.50. Mº Concorde les dandys - 23 rue Pasquier (8th), 01.40.07.05.52. Mº Saint-Augustin levi’s store - 76 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th) , 01.53.53.05.70. Mº Georges V marella - 18 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.53.30.73.13. Mº Madeleine marina rinaldi - 20 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.86.10.90. Mº Madeleine rowena forrest - 9 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.65.25.46. Mº Concorde talbot runhof - 14 rue d’Alger (1st), 01.55.04.85.50. Mº Tuileries Zilli - 48 rue François 1er (8th), 01.53.23.90.96. Mº George V

eye WeAr

tikibou toy store - 33 blvd Edgar Quinet (14th), 01.43.20.98.79. Mº Edgar Quinet

alain mikli - 74 rue des Saints-Pères (7th), 01.45.49.40.00. M° Sèvres-Babylone franCis klein - 30 rue Bonaparte (6th), 01.44.07.04.28. Mº St-Germain-des-Prés GrandoptiCal - 138 ave des ChampsElysées (8th), 01.40.76.00.13. Mº George V

ten Clothes - 2-4 rue du Sabot (6th), 01.42.22.16.60. M° St Sulpice

FABrics: couture

clothing: Men & WoMen anne fontaine - 17 rue François 1er (8th), 01.40.73.78.01. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt banana republiC - 22 ave des ChampsElysées (8th), 01.53.89.03.92. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt bCbGmaXaZria -14 blvd de la Madeleine (8th), 01.43.12.55.20. Mº Madeleine beretta Gallery - 57 rue Pierre Charron (8th), 01.56.88.59.59. Mº George V Capelstore - 26 blvd Malesherbes (8th), 01.42.66.34.21. Mº Madeleine Carven - 34 rue St Sulpice (6th), 09.60.45.47.04. M° Mabillon Cerruti 1881 - 27 rue Royale (8th), 01.53.30.18.72. Mº Madeleine Chanel - 31 rue Cambon (1st), 01.44.50.66.00. Mº Concorde de fursaC - 146 blvd St-Germain (6th), 01.43.25.40.66. Mº St-Germain-des-Prés dior - 30 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.40.73.73.73. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt dsQuared2 - 247-251 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.71.93.60.00. Mº Concorde emanuel berG - 140 rue du Fbg SaintHonoré (8th), 01.53.75.48.01. Mº SaintPhilippe-du-Roule

salon John nollet - Hotel Park Hyatt, 5 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.55.80.71.50. M° Opéra

hervé leGer - 24 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.60.02.00. Mº Madeleine

sephora - 70-72 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.93.22.50. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

iblues - 16 rue de Passy (16th), 01.42.88.68.67. Mº Passy

Janssens & Janssens - 3 rue d’Anjou (8th), 01.42.65.04.00. Mº Concorde

Food & Wine Cave bernard maGreZ - 43 rue St. Augustin (2nd), 01.49.24.03.11. Mº Quatre-Septembre Caviar petrossian - 8 blvd de la TourMaubourg (7th), 01.44.11.32.32. Mº La TourMaubourg debauve & Gallais - 30 rue des SaintsPères (7th), 01.45.48.54.67. Mº St-Germaindes-Prés fauChon - 26 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.70.39.38.00. Mº Madeleine hediard - 21 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.43.12.88.88. Mº Madeleine kusmi tea - 71 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.63.08.08. Mº George V ladurée - 75 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.40.75.08.75. Mº George V mariaGe frÈres - 30 rue du Bourg-Tibourg (4th), 01.42.72.28.11. Mº Hôtel de Ville pierre hermé - 72 rue Bonaparte (6th), 01.43.54.47.77. Mº St-Sulpice wine by one - 9 rue des Capucines (1st), 01.42.60.85.76. Mº Opéra

hoMe decor ateliers d’art de franCe boutiQue (talents) - 26 ave Niel (17th), 01.44.40.22.80. Mº Pereire/Ternes baCCarat - 11 place des États-Unis (16th), 01.40.22.11.22. Mº Boissière

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for more shopping destinations , go to wheretraveler.com/paris

bernardaud - 11 rue Royale (8th), 01.47.42.82.66. Mº Madeleine Christofle - 9 rue Royale (8th), 01.55.27.99.13. Mº Concorde laliQue - 11 rue Royale (8th), 01.53.05.12.12. Mº Madeleine silvera - 56-58 ave Kléber (16th), 01.53.65.78.78. Mº Kléber ZwillinG - 12 blvd de la Madeleine (9th), 01.42.68.88.00. Mº Madeleine

JeWellery & WAtches a. lanGe & söhne - 19 rue de la Paix (9th), 01.42.65.68.71. Mº Opéra anGela Caputi GiuGGiu - 15 Galerie Véro-Dodat (1st), 01.40.39.01.51. Mº Louvre-Rivoli ariJe - 3 rue de Castiglione (1st), 01.42.60.37.77. Mº Tuileries bouCheron - 26 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.61.58.16. Mº Opéra buCherer - 12 blvd des Capucines (9th), 01.70.99.18.88. Mº Opéra bvlGari - 25 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.00.50. Mº Pyramides Cartier - 23 place Vendôme (1st), 01.44.53.32.20. Mº Opéra Chopard - 1 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.20.10. Mº Opéra damiani - 2 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.96.95.51. M° Opera dodo by pomellato - 350 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.31.55. Mº Tuileries f.p. Journe - 63 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.68.08.00. Mº Champs-Elysées Clemenceau hublot - 10 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.86.67.86. Mº Opéra inedit Joaillier - 14 rue de l’Abbaye (6th), 01.56.24.13.85. MºSt-Germain-des-Prés GuCCi watChes - Printemps Haussmann (1st floor), 64 bd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.78.74, Mº Havre-Caumartin omeGa - 362/364 rue Saint-Honoré (2nd), 01.55.35.03.60. Mº Concorde patek philippe - 10 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.44.17.77. Mº Tuileries piaGet - 16 place Vendôme (1st), 01.58.18.14.15. Mº Tuileries tiffany&Co. - 6 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.40.20.20 20. Mº Opéra tissot boutiQue - 76 ave des ChampsElysées (8th), 01.42.56.18.53. Mº George V van Cleef & arpels - 22 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.04.11.11. Mº Opéra vhernier - 63 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.17.93.15. Mº Miromesnil wempe - 16 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.21.77. Mº Concorde

luggage and bags Cesaire - 6 rue Saint-Florentin (1st), 01.42.97.43.43. Mº Concorde/Madeleine CoaCh (available at Printemps): 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.46.35. Mº Havre-Caumartin dot-drops - 8 rue des Canettes (6th), 01.43.54.62.15. Mº Mabillon hedGren - 49 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.36.36.97. Mº Madeleine

hermÈs - 24 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th), 01.40.17.47.17. Mº Concorde kiplinG – 4 rue de Sèvres (6th), 01.45.44.77.67. Mº Sèvres-Babylone lanCel - 127 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.56.89.15.70. Mº George V lonGChamp - 404 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.43.16.00.16. Mº Concorde louis vuitton - 101 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.53.57.52.00. Mº George V pinel & pinel - 22 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.58.39. Mº Madeleine prada - 10 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.23.99.40. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt teXier- 127 blvd St-Germain (6th), 01.42.97.59.34. Mº Mabillon/ St-Germain-des-Prés tumi - 245 rue St Honoré (1st), 01.45.79.70.30. Mº Concorde

tartine et ChoColat 84 rue du Fbg St.Honoré (8th) Mº Saint-Philippe-du-Roule ❘ www.tartine-et-chocolat.fr

Multi-BrAnd Boutiques by marie - 8 ave George V (8th), 01.53.23.88.00. Mº George V Citadium - 56 rue de Caumartin (9th), 01.55.31.74.00. Mº Havre-Caumartin Colette - 213 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.55.35.33.90. Mº Tuileries Gab&Jo - 28 rue Jacob (6th), 09.84.53.58.43. Mº St-Germain-des-Prés l’eClaireur - 26 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.12.32. Mº George V merCi - 111 blvd Beaumarchais (3th), 01.42.77.00.33. Mº Saint Sébastien-Froissard montaiGne market - 57 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.42.56.58.58. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

damiani 2 place Vendôme (1st) M° Opera ❘ www.damiani.com

shoes ann tuil - 63 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.42.25.67.31. Mº George V a.testoni - 15 rue Royale (8th), 01.44.60.09.90. Mº Concorde berluti - 26 rue Marbeuf (8th), 01.53.93.97.97.Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt Christian louboutin - 68 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.68.37.65. Mº Madeleine CroCkett & Jones – 14 rue ChauveauLagarde (8th), 01.44.94.01.74. Mº Madeleine derville – Passage des 2 Pavillons (1st), 01.42.96.82.27. Mº Pyramides Jimmy Choo –34 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.23.03.39. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt J.m. weston – 114 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.26.47. Mº George V mephisto shop - 12 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01.40.15.00.50. Mº Pyramides paraboot - 304 rue St Honoré (1st), 01.44.50.52.67. Mº Tuileries repetto - 22 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.44.71.83.12. Mº Opéra tod’s - 21 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.16.16. Mº Concorde

laliQue 11 rue Royale (8th) Mº Madeleine ❘ www.lalique.com

VintAge bye buy - 4 rue des Gravilliers (3th), 06.63.13.06.30. Mº Arts et Métiers dépÔt vente du 17Ème - 109 rue de Courcelles, 75017, 09.81.82.00.66. Mº Saint-Paul didier ludot - 20 & 24 Galerie de Montpensier (1st), 01.42.96.06.56. Mº Pyramides dress-Code - 62 ave Théophile Gautier (16th), 01.45.25.00.00. Mº Eglise d’Auteuil l’ibis rouGe - 35 blvd Raspail (7th), 01.45.48.98.21. Mº Sèvres-Babylone renaissanCe - 14 rue de Beaune (7th), 06.85.43.03.52. Mº rue du Bac

Christian louboutin 68 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th) Mº Madeleine ❘ www.christianlouboutin.com

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W H E R E PA R I S

THE RAYSSE RETROSPECTIVE There are the variable geometry paintings of his Pop period, the experiments of what is regarded as the shaman years, the ambitious master-inspired pictures of the late 1970s and the large format works from the 1990s onward. The Centre Georges Pompidou is devoting a new retrospective to one of France’s most important living artists, Martial Raysse. He broke new ground in his Pop period by introducing everyday consumer objects into his paintings and at the time he said, “Prisunic supermarkets are the new museums of modern art.” The works of his shaman period were inspired by collective artistic practices and magical rituals while all of the large format works are animated frescoes showing allegorical and frequently grotesque visions of humanity. The exhibition brings together more than 200 works in the form of paintings, sculptures, films, photographs and drawings and provides an overview of fifty years of creation with iconic works from every period in the artist’s career. – Patricia Valicenti Place Georges Pompidou (4th), 01 44 78 12 33

MARTIAL RAYSSE, MADE IN JAPAN, 1963, PINAULT COLLECTION; CHERI SAMBA, LA VRAIE CARTE DU MONDE, 2011, COLLECTION OF THE FONDATION CARTIER POUR L’ART CONTEMPORAIN, PARIS PHOTO © FLORIAN KLEINEFENN © CHERI SAMBA; ESPACE MUSEES PHOTO © ESPACE MUSEES; PALAZZO GRASSI SPA PHOTO: SANTI CALECA © ADAGP, PARIS 2014

ARTS & ATTRACTIONS

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© FLORIAN KLEINEFENN © CHERI SAMBA; ESPACE MUSEES PHOTO © ESPACE MUSEES; PALAZZO GRASSI SPA PHOTO: SANTI CALECA © ADAGP, PARIS 2014

[ A R T S & AT T R A C T I O N S ]

Before Boarding

CELEBRATING THE CONTEMPORARY This year the Fondation Cartier, a dynamic venue devoted to contemporary art, is celebrating its 30th anniversary. Myriad mediums including painting, design, photography, cinema and video projections, converge in the show Mémoires Vives, the first exhibition commemorating the anniversary. The collective show brings together the community of artists that the Fondation Cartier has supported over the decades through its pioneering patronage of the arts. The paintings of Chéri Samba and the notebooks of Moebius join a host of works ranging from the monumental golden sphere of James Lee Byars to the submarine of Panamarenko. David Lynch conceived the theatre where a programme of art films and a voyage into the Fondation Cartier story are projected while Issey Miyake showcases the night in a spectacular light-filled installation on the ground floor and in the foundation’s lovely garden. – P.V. 261 blvd Raspail (14th), 01 42 18 56 50

A unique venue awaits passengers inside the Paris-Charles de Gaulle Airport where four centuries of French history are revealed in the Espace Musées, a space devoted to exhibitions. The third show to be held here brings together some 20 original works ranging from the time of Louis XIV to the present. The precious pieces on display emanate from France’s Mobilier National, the national furniture collection and manufacture, including tapestries executed by specialised craftsmen from original works created by major artists. “We wanted to surprise passengers from around the world”, said Augustin de Romanet, the CEO and Chairman of Aéroports de Paris (ADP), which builds, develops and operates airports in the Parisian region. – P.V. Paris-Charles de Gaulle Airport, Terminal 2E Hall M

PEACE IN THE PARK

Wooded walkways, picturesque ponds and pools, flowers and fields, the Parc JeanJacques Rousseau in the scenic town of Ermenonville north of Paris is a theatre of greenery and one of France’s leading landscaped parks. The peaceful setting was created in 1764 at the instigation of the Marquis René-Louis de Girardin who would build this utopian world, which, at the time was called the Gardens of Ermenonville, in the fashion of English country gardens, and today it remains in an extremely natural setting. The great philosopher Jean-Jacques Rousseau spent the last six weeks of his life here as a guest of the Marquis and he is buried here on the Isle of the Poplars in the big pond. Other illustrious visitors followed, among them Marie Antoinette, Bonaparte and Joseph II, the Emperor of Austria. Its greenery and water worlds stretch out over 60 hectares punctuated by small temples and a belvedere. – P.V. 1 rue René de Girardin, 60950 Ermenonville, 03 44 10 45 75 By the A1 highway, exit 7, 47 kilometres from Paris. w w w.wheretr aveler.c o m 41

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W h e r e pa r i s

The Petit Palais

A FREE TREAT

CheCk out our round-up of Cultural treats that you Can enjoy for free this month MUSEE DU PARFUM

delightful garden, his private apartment and his

brings together the great artworks and objects

Discover the world of perfume and perfume

studios are on the premises.

depicting Paris in 1900 with works by Toulouse-

making in this delightful museum operated

Tues-Sun 10am-6pm.

Lautrec, Monet, Lalique among others.

by Fragonard, the legendary Grasse-based

18 rue Antoine Bourdelle (15th),

Tues-Sun 10am-6pm, late night Thurs until 8pm

perfume and essence maker, ensconced in a

01 49 54 73 73.

for temporary exhibitions.

superb Napoleon III town house. Free entry.

M° Montparnasse-bienvenue

www.petitpalais.paris.fr.

www.fragonard.com 9 rue Scribe (9th), 01 47 42 04 56. M° Opéra

MUSEE DE LA VIE ROMANTIQUE A lovely 19th-century home and garden with mementos of George Sand and paintings by Ary Scheffer. Terrific terrace café on premises,

ave winston churchill (8th), 01.53.43.40.00. M° champs-elysées clemenceau

free On wedneSday afTernOOnS MAISON EUROPEENNE DE LA PHOTOGRAPHIE

The perManenT cOllecTiOnS Of The fOllOwing MuSeuMS are free (an adMiSSiOn fee iS charged fOr The TeMpOrary exhibiTiOnS)

weather permitting. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm.

MUSEE BOURDELLE

PETIT PALAIS

Marie-Paule Nègre, beautifully framed

Located in the heart of Montparnasse this

The city’s fine arts museum, in a beautifully

reportage photography. Wed-Sun 11am-8pm,

museum is one of the last vestiges of the artist

renovated 1900 building. The extensive

last tickets 7:30pm. www.mep-fr.org. Entrance

hamlets that flourished in Paris at the end of

permanent collection offers a panorama of

fee 8€, free entry Wed 5pm-8pm.

the 19th century. The collection is devoted

art from antiquity to the early 20th century.

5/7 rue de fourcy (4th), 01 44 78 75 00.

to the sculptor and his monumental works. A

Through Aug 17 Paris 1900, La Ville Spectacle,

M° St paul

16 rue chaptal (9th), 01 55 31 95 67. M° blanche

France’s national photography house showcasing the best in contemporary photographic art. Through Aug 31

The City Hall of Paris has opened up Paris Rendez-Vous, a practical space where both visitors and Parisians can converge for information on every aspect of the French capital, one of the most visited in the world. The venue showcases the cultural offerings found around town as well as a host of municipal information, helpful for visitors on a lengthier stay. A consultation table, self-service tablet computers and the free Paris Wi-Fi network as well as a dedicated information team are all on hand. Visitors can find programmes, passes and invitations to conferences, cultural events and special operations. There is also a nice boutique carrying the official city of Paris brands, whose products are all made in France, as well as an exclusive selection of products from historic Parisian companies all fashioned in Paris and the greater Paris region. – P.V. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm 29 rue de rivoli (4th)

petit palais photo © petit palais; paris rendez-vous photo © Marc verhille/Mairie de paris

Mon-Sat 9am-6pm, Sun and holidays 9am-5pm.

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W H E R E PA R I S

ATTRACTIONS

The Parc Zoologique de Paris AQUARIUM DE PARIS (CINEAQUA)

Through Aug 31, 10am-7pm

fr. Ave du Mahatma Gandhi, Bois de Boulogne

Discover the world of the sea at this delightful

Paris Expo, blvd Victor, Porte de Versailles

(16th), 01.40.67.90.85.

aquarium. Species from Guyana to the Seine,

(15th).

M° Les Sablons

the Mediterranean Sea to the North Sea can

M° Porte De Versailles

LE MANOIR DE PARIS

DISNEYLAND RESORT PARIS

The urban legends of Paris come to life in

Open 365 days a year, Disneyland Park surrounds

this haunted manor house and listed historic

you with all your favourite characters and the

monument. An interactive exhibition space invites

latest attractions. The fantastic Hollywood Tower

visitors to live the legends of Paris from the Vampire

will terrify even the least squeamish while Le

Theatre to the phantom of the opera.

Festival des Moments Magiques Disney is a host

Fri 6pm-10pm & Sat, Sun 3pm-7pm. adults, 25€,

of interactive exhibitions and encounters with

under 16, 18.50€. Please consult the web site for

your favourite Disney characters, from Peter Pan

additional opening times. www.lemanoirdeparis.fr.

to Rapunzel and Ratatouille. Walt Disney Studios

18 rue de Paradis, (10th).

Park offers 4 cinema lots and attractions with a

M° Château d’Eau

CANAL SAINT MARTIN

cinematic theme. Disney Dreams! is a magical show

PALAIS GARNIER–OPERA DE PARIS

This trendy Parisian neighbourhood has a wide

of light at nightfall at Sleeping Beauty’s castle.

Designed by architect Charles Garnier, and a

array of bars, restaurants and eclectic shops

Daily 10am-7pm. Check website for opening

brilliant example of Second Empire architecture.

lining the sides of this functioning canal which

hours on day of visit. One park: adults 62€,

Daily visits on your own,10 am-4:30 pm (adults

links the Villette basin to the Arsenal port by

children 56€ (3-11yrs); combined ticket: adults

10€, students and under 25, free) information:

the Bastille. Scenic footbridges, locks and the

74€, children 66€. www.disneylandparis.com.

08 92 89 90 90. Guided tours in English daily

waterway itself add to the charm of this off the

RER A to Marne La Vallée/Chessy (40-65 min)

at 11:30am and 2:30pm Jul-Aug and school

JARDIN D’ACCLIMATATION

holidays; rest of year Wed, Sat and Sun, same

seahorses and eels are among the residents here. Visitors can also enjoy films, educational activities and workshops. Daily 10am-7pm, first Sat of the month until 10pm, last tickets one hour before closing, adults: 20.50€, children 13-17: 16€, 3-12: 13€. www.cineaqua.com. 5 ave Albert de Mun (16th), 01.40.69.23.23. M° Iéna

beaten track neighbourhood. Quai de Jemmapes/Quai de Valmy, (10th). M° République

A traditional French children’s park in the scenic Bois de Boulogne replete with rides, exhibitions,

times (14€). Daily 10am-5pm, 10€. For additional information on guided tours call 08.25.05.44.05. Through Sept 28 Les Ballets Suédois, 1920-

DINOSAURS

pavilions, a puppet theatre, a riding academy,

Discover 75 life size dinosaurs and pre-historic

restaurants and picnic grounds. Don’t miss

animals in this exhibition, which takes the visitor

the Little Train, the Enchanted River and the

back in time to the planet earth as it was 150

19th century aviary filled with exotic birds.

million years ago. Twenty species of dinosaur

Educational workshops featuring cooking,

populate the show ranging from the small, bird-

gardening, magic and more are held on Wed

PARC ASTERIX

like Archaeopteryx to the large Brachiosaurus

and Sun. See website for full schedule and

Welcome to the world of the Gauls, the original

with its giraffe-like neck. A film and interactive

reservations.

inhabitants of France. This theme park brings

displays round out the experience.

Daily 10am-6pm. www.jardindacclimatation.

you back in time to sample life as it was in a

1925, takes a look at this avant-garde company founded in Paris. Place de l’Opéra (9th). M° Opéra

ZOO PHOTO © F.G. GRANDIN-MNHN; BATOBUS PHOTO © DOMINIQUE MILHEROU & LUC PARIS

be found swimming within. Sharks, clownfish,

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[ A R T S & AT T R A C T I O N S ]

BOAT TRIPS

Gallic village. Magic potions, menhirs, cauldrons and a forest of druids are just a sampling of the attractions in this fun-filled park, one of the most popular in all of France. The park also has lands devoted to the Roman Empire, the Vikings and ancient Greece. There are six restaurants and you can even stay on the grounds in the heart of the forest at a charming wood hotel. Adults 46€, children 37€ (3-11yrs), parking 10€. Check website for opening days and times each month. Thirty kilometres north of Paris on the A1 highway direction, Lille, exit Parc Asterix between exits 7 and 8. www.parcasterix.fr. Daily bus service from Paris at the Louvre

Batobus

call 01 53 48 39 53. RER B3 Roissy then Parc

BATEAUX-MOUCHES

This unique concept lets you navigate into

The legendary cruise company has been

neighbourhoods of the French capital through

navigating the Seine for over 60 years. Double-

its scenic canals and you don’t need a permit.

decker tour boats offer fine vistas of the capital.

Fifteen boats that can carry between 5 and 11

Savoury lunch and dinner cruises offering

people are available for hire. 8-25€ per person

classic French cuisine may also be booked.

depending upon length of rental.

Cruise only: 13.50€ adults, 5.50€ children

www.marindeaudouce.fr.

under 12. Departures every 20 min from

Bassin de la Villette, 37 quai de la Seine

10:15am-10:30pm. www.bateaux-mouches.fr.

(19th), 06.52.05.13.27.

Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10.

M° Rique

M° Alma-Marceau

PARIS LUXURY BOAT

Daumesnil (12th), 01.40.79.31.25.

BATEAUX PARISIENS

Enjoy an original and romantic cruise on

M° Château de Vincennes then bus no. 46

Giant glass-roofed tour boats. From 14€ adults,

board your own private boat. Ensconced in a

6€ children 3-12, under 3 free. Departures

mahogany Riva runabout of the 1960s enjoy

every hour on the hour, 10am-10pm (except

the Seine and the heart of Paris. The captain

1pm & 7:30pm). Lunch and dinner cruises also

and bilingual hostess welcome you on board

available. www.bateauxparisiens.com.

with beverages and canapés. Reservations

Port de la Bourdonnais (7th), 08.25.01.01.01.

required, 5 persons maximum. www.

M° Trocadéro

parisluxuryboat.com.

Asterix Bus

PARC ZOOLOGIQUE DE PARIS This beautiful zoo presents in 16 natural environments some 1000 animals, birds, mammals, reptiles, amphibians and fish, representing 180 species. It is a highly diversified collection ranging from predators to colourful birds and a host of frog and lizard species. www.parczoologiquedeparis.fr. Entrance located at the corner of the ave Daumesnil and the Route de Ceinture du lac

PARIS KID This company provides cultural excursions for children aged 6 to 12 who are visiting Paris from abroad with their families. The visits are designed for children, unaccompanied by their parents. Programs are defined in advance. Tours include

06.60.16.00.79/ 01.46.05.59.14

the History of France and the Middle Ages.

BATOBUS

For registration and information visit

A sleek “shuttle boat” making 8 stops including

RIVER LIMOUSINE

www.pariskid.com.

the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, the Jardin des

Take in a private cruise on the Seine on board

PARIS STORY A fun and educational way to discover the city of Paris through an exceptional audiovisual presentation and interactive experience. The show offers a journey into 2000 years of history.

Plantes and the Town Hall. 10:30am-7pm, boats 17 to 30 minutes apart, depending upon the season. One-day pass 16€, 2-day pass 18€. www.batobus.com. 08.25.05.01.01.

a luxurious boat custom-built in Venice and replete with a salon, sunroof, mini-bar, tinted windows and a bottle of champagne. See the city’s monuments on board this genuine limousine on water skippered by Captain Josef Anticevic. Duration: 70-90 minutes. Tailor-made

Daily 10am-6pm, projection every hour on the

LE CAPITAINE FRACASSE

cruises also available. Prices upon request.

hour. 11€ adults, 7€ children, ages 6-18. www.

Enjoy a 2-hour cruise on the Seine while

Reservations required. www.river-limousine.

paris-story.com.

enjoying a delightful dinner conceived by

com.

11bis rue Scribe (9th), 01.42.66.62.06.

Martial Enguehard, who was awarded the

06.86.07.87.37.

M° Opéra/Chaussée d’Antin

prestigious finest craftsman of France honour.

THE TUILERIES GARDEN This vast park filled with peaceful wide alleyways for strolling and an octagonal water basin offers a place for a promenade between the Pyramide du Louvre and the Place de la Concorde. Sculptures by Maillol, Rodin, Dubuffet and Louise

Menus start at 65€. Mon-Thurs at 7pm & 9:30pm, Fri & Sat at 7pm & 9:45pm, Sun at 8pm, boarding 15 to 30 minutes before departure. www.lecapitainefracasse.com. L’Ile aux Cygnes (15th), 08.26.10.48.15. M° Bir-Hakeim

YACHTS DE PARIS The most luxurious of all the river boats. Private cruises, parties, receptions. Gourmet dinner cruises nightly boarding at 7:45pm featuring the gastronomic cuisine of chef Guy Krenzer, who was awarded the prestigious finest craftsman of France title.

Bourgeois are among the jewels set in these

MARIN D’EAU DOUCE

www.yachtsdeparis.fr. Port Henri IV (4th),

refreshing gardens.

Enjoy a spin on the canals of Paris in these

01.44.54.14.70.

Jardin des Tuileries (1st).

environmentally friendly electric boats.

M° Pont de Sully

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W H E R E PA R I S

DAY TRIPS

Château de Fontainebleau

AUVERS SUR OISE

glass, which is unique in Europe. Through

des Impressionnismes organises temporary

The French countryside and the village where

Oct 12th Lights of Chartres, when the city’s

exhibitions of major painters. Through Nov 2

Van Gogh spent the last months of his life

cathedral, monuments, squares and gardens

Bruxelles, une capitale impressionniste, shows

are just 27 kilometres from Paris. Across from

are lit up at night. www.chartres-tourisme.com.

works from the effervescent period of art

the church is the cemetery where the artist is

SNCF from Gare Montparnasse (about 1 hr);

and culture in Brussels at the turn of the 20th

buried. Through Aug 31 In the Footsteps of

last return train to Paris about 9pm.

century.

Van Gogh, a programme of cultural events and exhibitions celebrating the artist is being held throughout the town. The 17th-century château has a multimedia exhibit, Voyage au Temps des Impressionistes. Tues-Sun 10:30am-6pm. Adults

CHATEAU DE FONTAINEBLEAU A favourite haunt of Napoléon, residence of the French kings from the 12th to the 19th century, this royal château is famous for the double

Museum open from Mar 28 through Oct 31, daily 10am-6pm last tickets 5:30pm. 7€, free first Sun of the month. 99 rue Claude Monet. 02.32.51.94.65.To plan your trip visit http:// giverny.org.

Renaissance decor by Italian artists. Wed-

Rue Claude Monet,. SNCF from the Gare St.

Mon 9:30am-5pm, 11€. www.musee-chateau-

Lazare to Gare de Vernon, 45 minutes, then

fontainebleau.fr.

the No. 240 bus to Giverny

bookshop and restaurant on the premises,

01.60.71.50.70. SNCF Grandes Lignes from

MUSEE NATIONAL DU CHATEAU DE

through Oct 26, restaurant through Nov 23.

Gare de Lyon to Fontainebleau-Avon (40

MALMAISON

01.30.36.60.60. Auvers-sur-Oise (95), Wed-

min), then a short bus or shuttle ride from

This delightful 17th-century castle on the

Sun 10am-6pm, 6€. SNCF from Gare du Nord

the station

outskirts of Paris was the rural home of

to Valmondois, then change for Auvers-sur-

GIVERNY

Josephine and Napoleon Bonaparte. The

Oise (about 1 hr 15 min)

Enter into the world of the Impressionists

permanent collections include portraits by

CHARTRES

in this dreamy village west of Paris where

Gérard, furnishings, and clothing worn by the

The town of Chartres is known for its splendid

Claude Monet arrived in 1883. This little spot

Imperial couple. The property is also home to a

cathedral with magnificent stained glass

in Normandy is also rich in castles, mills,

beautiful rose garden.

windows. Tours in English are conducted by

gardens and a wealth of museums. Monet’s

Opening times: 10am-12:30pm/13:30pm-

Professor Malcolm Miller, an Englishman who

home, gardens and the immortalized water lily

5:45pm/Until 6:15pm Sat & Sun. Closed Tues.

is considered the world’s leading expert on

ponds remain, all opened to the public at the

www.chateau-malmaison.fr.

the cathedral (Mon-Sat at 12 and 2:45pm, for

Fondation Claude Monet. From Apr 1 through

Ave du Château de Malmaison,

groups, private visits on request). 10€. You can

Nov 1, 9:30am-6pm last tickets at 5:30pm.

01.41.29.05.55.

also visit the Centre International du Vitrail, a

9.50€. 84 rue Claude Monet. 02.32.51.28.21.

Metro or RER to la Défense then bus 258 to

workshop and museum devoted to stained

www.fondation-monet.com. The Musée

the stop Château

And in the heart of the artists’ village is the Maison de Van Gogh, Place de la Mairie, where you can visit Van Gogh’s bedroom and with

PHOTO © FMR

staircase on its front façade and its superb

14€, ages 6-18 9.90€. Rue de Léry 01.34.48.48.48.

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I

t all began back in 1623 with the construction of a relatively humble hunting pavilion for the French king Louis Xiii in a region of marshes and game-filled woods. Louis XiV, who became king at the tender age of 5, would transform and enlarge the structure in 1668 when the monumental construction works were launched to bring into being one of the world’s most glorious castles, Versailles. it would become the seat of court and the government of France under Louis XiV as France and its sun King outshined the rest of the world. a UNEsCO World Heritage site, with its 2300 rooms, 1944 windows covering 18,000 square metres, the palace and its stunning grounds are well beyond vast. Perhaps its most glorious interior is the Hall of Mirrors (pictured on opposite page, top left), or the Grand Gallery, as it was known back in the 17th century, which played host to diplomatic receptions, princely weddings and masked balls. Costumes worn during the balls in the Gallery ranged from Turkish headdresses to yew trees. it was here that the masked ball for the wedding of Marie-antoinette and the Dauphin – who would become Louis XVi – was held in 1770, and it was also here in a hall capable of accommodating hundreds of dignitaries that the Treaty of Versailles was signed on June 28th, 1919, sealing the end of World War i.

LONG LIVE THE KING B Y PaT r i C i a V a L i C E N T i

The castle also served as a home to, among others, Louis XV who made his own hot chocolate and marzipan in his private kitchen and Marieantoinette, who enjoyed playing her harp, revived the glamorous balls and hosted a host of parties. The sun King himself initiated diplomatic relations with China notably through the creation of a French Jesuit Mission and relations continued during the reigns of Louis XV and Louis XVi. Versailles is currently hosting a wonderful, and at times whimsical, temporary exhibition celebrating the 50th anniversary of diplomatic ties between France and modern-day China with an exhibition bringing together some 150 works showcasing

the French court’s taste for Chinese art and objects and featuring paintings, furnishings, lacquer pieces and porcelains. Louis XiV loved his immaculate grounds, statuaries and dancing fountains. He was particularly fond of tulips. For the king, the great gardener andré Le Nôtre designed and modelled terraces, floral beds and copses, conjuring up a surprise-filled world that charms to this day, for the glorious grounds and gardens are a high point of a visit to Versailles. The major junctions and paths are punctuated with statues and yew trees sculpted into the most astonishing of shapes. Classical music, entertainment and the fountains

Dancing Fountains photo © Jacques De givry; hall oF Mirrors photo © christian Milet; a vieW FroM the grounDs photo © DiDier saulnier; FloWer beDs With tulips photo © thoMas garnier

W h e r e pa r i s

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[ A r t s & At t r A c t i o n s ]

played a leading role at court at Versailles, which still today enjoys a festive demeanour in the summertime. Louis XIV paid special attention to the construction of his gardens in which a large canal, reservoirs and canalisations were built to feed the castle’s famous fountains whose mission was to bring to life each sculpture and each wooded area. The finest Italian fountain makers, the Francine dynasty of Florence, were brought in to work hand in hand with the sculptors. Their creations were dedicated to the mythology of Antiquity and the king personally supervised the creation of each copse. Today, on Saturdays and Sundays, the fountains of Versailles come to life with music and water during the day. Meanwhile, on Saturday evenings the Royal Serenade in the Hall of Mirrors is played out as musicians and dancers take you back to the reign of Louis XIV and the balls of France’s Great Century. Then when night falls (on Saturdays) Louis XIV’s Royal Garden turns into an astonishing journey punctuated by sound, water and light. From the Bassin de Latone to the Grand Canal, myriad surprises await as dusk falls and the

grounds become enshrouded in a night filled with illuminations culminating in a display of fireworks in front of the Grand Canal to cap off a royal evening. Royal days, and at times nights, for the women of the French court meant spending time in the rural setting of the two palaces of the Trianon. It was once a woman’s world, the Trianon palaces and surroundings, nestled into the grounds of Versailles, a countryside retreat that offered an escape from the formalities of court, which you can now visit. Here the queens and empresses of France came with their court ladies, children and friends, as did the favourite mistresses of the kings like Madame de Pompadour and Madame du Barry. Louis XV’s mother, the Duchess of Burgundy, held a carnival in 1702 in the Grand Trianon where she had taken up residence while Louis XVI gave the Petit Trianon to Marie-Antoinette as a wedding gift. It is in the Trianon that the Belvedere and its Rock are found nestled in the English Garden landscaped for Marie-Antoinette in the 1780s, with the Belvedere dominating the ornamental lake of the garden.

You can discover another dimension of the Chateau of Versailles and enter into the secret world of the kings and queens of France, a private world unknown to the public at large. Extraordinary visits for 1 to 10 people can be booked by appointment to see the private apartments of Marie-Antoinette, the bathrooms and the royal living quarters hidden away behind the ceremonial apartments and away from the crowds. A professional lecturer conducts these special visits. Avenue Rockefeller, Versailles 78000, 01 30 83 78 00 RER C to Versailles Chateau Rive Gauche For tickets and reservations for the fountain shows call 01 30 83 78 89 or visit www.chateauversailles-spectacles.fr. Tickets are also available at the entrance to the gardens on the day of the show. For the private visits call 01 30 83 78 00 or email visites.conferences@chateauversailles.fr w w w.wheretr aveler.c o m 49

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W H E R E PA R I S

DINING

When American fashion designer Ralph Lauren opened an eponymous restaurant serving such stateside comfort foods as crab cakes, Cobb salad and burgers (made with hormone-free organic beef from his Colorado ranch) four years ago, many Parisian style scribes had their doubts that this table would work. An American restaurant in the heart of Saint-Germain-des-Prés? Mais non! Well, fast-forward, and the palmy courtyard of the 17th century mansion Lauren restored has become one of the most stylish and sought-after summer tables in town, and not just for its great aesthetic staging but its food. On the menu for the international beau monde are crab cakes, lobster or Caesar salad, one of the six different burgers on offer—beef with three different garnishes, tuna, turkey, and vegetarian—, a good steak, or grilled salmon, and then cheesecake, carrot cake, a brownie, chocolate layer cake, or Key Lime pie. The easy-drinking California wines served by the glass are an amusing conversation starter as far as the French are concerned, and the much-appreciated American-style service is charming, alert and attentive. – Alexander Lobrano 73 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01 44 77 76 00

RALPH’S PHOTO © S BECQUET

RALPH'S

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[Dining]

Les Bouquinistes When three-star chef Guy Savoy opened this contemporary bistro in 1994, it immediately became one of the most popular restaurants on the Left Bank. Twenty years later, this local institution was given a sleek redesign by stylish Parisian interior designer Jean-Michel Wilmotte last year, and chef Stéphane Perraud’s modern French bistro cooking is consistently sophisticated, inventive and appealing. The menu here evolves constantly but dishes like a starter of tuna with smoked aubergine in a crab vinaigrette, and beef filet in a date jus or braised suckling pig with turnips, onions, carrots and sweet peas as main courses show off Perraud’s love of fresh seasonal produce and wellreasoned creativity. Don’t miss the strawberryfilled meringue with rhubarb sorbet for dessert, and note that this charming and conveniently located restaurant is open daily for lunch and dinner. – A.L. 53 quai des Grands Augustins (6th), 01 43 25 45 94. Closed from the 19th till the end of the month.

KHAOSAN The largest concentration of Asian restaurants in Paris is found deep in the somewhat off-the-beaten track 13th arrondissement, but for anyone who wants to Thai one on without making that trek, Khaosan in the 9th arrondissement is a notably likeable address. First off, the service is gracious, friendly and Englishspeaking, and then there’s the crowd—an arty mix of the Parisian bobos who’ve made this neighbourhood the equivalent of New York City’s West Village or London’s Notting Hill Gate. What this means is a lively, arty mix of odd-bods in a low-lit restaurant with some sidewalk tables if the weather’s good enough to sit outside and a seriously Siamese cast of cooks in the kitchen. Start with the lemongrass and prawn soup or maybe some nems (spring rolls) or a chicken papaya salad, and then sample carefully cooked dishes like Pad Thai (noodles sautéed with meat and vegetables), or one of their three different beautifully made curries—red, green or Penangstyle, with chicken, beef, shrimp, pork or duck. Finish up with a perfectly ripened mango, and note that the least expensive white wine on the list—the Domaine d’Uby, a Colombard-Ugni blend, makes for great summer drinking. – A.L. 52 rue Condorcet (9th), 01 49 70 07 06 Closed from the 15th to the 22nd of August

The Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. GENERAL iNfoRmAtioN Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. Value Added Tax (VAT, written in French as TVA) is automatically included in the bill, as is the service charge. While tipping is not compulsory, it is appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. iNdEx to AbbREviAtioNs B, L & D: Breakfast, lunch & dinner. AE: American Express, V: Visa, MC: Mastercard PRiCEs Set Meals: Prices are per person. A la carte: Price per person for three courses without wine. € – 30€ or less per person €€ – 31€-50€ per person €€€ – 51€-100€ per person €€€€ – 101€-150€ per person €€€€€ – 151€ and above per person

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W H E R E PA R I S [ D I N I N G ]

CASUAL DINING

Les Deux Magots

CAFÉ CHARLOT Bistro This delightful bistro offers a wide range of burgers, club sandwiches, and dishes made with organic eggs. Traditional dishes include sea bass filet and beef tartare. Classic and original cocktails can be savoured before or after your meal and a wide selection of icecreams and sorbets from Berthillon are perfect for dessert or a snack. Daily B, L, D €€ (MC, V). www.cafecharlotparis.com. 38 rue de Bretagne (3rd), 01.44.54.03.30. M° Filles du Calvaire LE CAFE DE L’ALMA Contemporary Ensconced on the very Parisian Avenue Rapp this is a chic and convivial spot for a meal or a drink on the serene outdoor terrace. The menu features traditional and healthy French fare as well as light and simple dishes from Spain, Italy and the Asian continent. Daily, B, L, D, service until midnight. €€ (AE, DC, MC, V). Closed 11-15/08 5 ave Rapp (7th), 01.45.51.56.74. M° Alma-Marceau CAFE DE FLORE Café The legendary café made famous in the 1950s by Jean-Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir and other Left Bank intellectuals. The atmosphere

is still Parisian, the fare limited to drinks and light snacks and traditional desserts. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am €/€€ (Cards: all) 172 blvd Saint-Germain (6th),01.45.48.55.26. M° St-Germain-des-Prés

LA FONTAINE DE MARS Bistro A lively old-fashioned bistro serving such traditional French specialties as eggplant with goat cheese, mushroom pâté, cassoulet, and the house specialty, a prune and apple

CAFE LES DEUX MAGOTS Café The other legendary Left Bank café, still going strong long after its 1950s heyday. The corner location facing the church makes it slightly more touristy than the rival Café de Flore, but it remains an authentic Parisian favourite. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am €/€€ (Cards: all) 6 pl Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.25. M° St-Germain-des-Prés

tart. Daily L&D. €€ (AE, MC, V)

CARETTE Café With its mirrors and marble-topped tables, this is a quintessentially Parisian spot for lunch or a tasty pastry and rich hot chocolate. French breakfast pastries, delicious salads and sandwiches are served and you can take it all away with you, too. Daily continuous service B&L. € (MC, V). 4 place du Trocadéro (16th) , 01.47.27.98.85 M° Trocadéro

rue Bonaparte (6th), 01.44.07.64.87. M°

129 rue St-Dominique (7th), 01.47.05.46.44 M° Ecole Militaire LADUREE Tea Room An ornate tea room/restaurant/pastry shop famous for macarons. Daily B, L, tea, dinner until midnight. €€ (AE, JCB, MC, V) Left Bank branch (daily B, L, tea, D) 21 St-Germain-des-Prés; and the original salon (daily B, L, tea) at 16 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.21.79. M° Madeleine; 75 ave des Champs-Elysées, 01.40.75.08.75. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt LA PALETTE Café This legendary Left Bank café still draws a clientele of local art students, gallery owners

FAUCHON LE CAFÉ Gourmet This temple to gastronomy is open all day and is a cosy yet sleek restaurant featuring fine and varied fare from foie gras to light salads. The restaurant offers a great view of Place de la Madeleine as well as an outdoor dining area in its own private terrace. Mon-Sat 9am-midnight, B, L & D. Closed Sun. €€. (Cards: MC, V, AX) 30 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.70.39.38.39. M° Madeleine

and national and international celebrities. Both its exterior and interior facades are listed historic monuments. Specialties include various farm fresh egg preparations and beef tartare. A nice selection of wines by the bottle or glass is available. Daily B,L,D. €€ (MC, V). 43 rue de Seine (6th), 01.43.26.68.15. M° Mabillon/St-Germain-des-Prés

PHOTO © PARIS TOURIST OFFICE - DAVID LEFRANC

L’AVENUE Contemporary One of the many hot spots run by the trendsetting Costes brothers and decorated by Jacques Garcia. Simple contemporary French fare. Daily L&D. €€€ (AE, DC, MC, V). 41 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.40.70.14.91. M° Alma-Marceau

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181x132 WHERE-JUILLET_14.qxp_Mise en page 1 27/05/2014 11:15 Page1

GRAND BISTRO SMALL CHECK

Something

e Parisian sun without restaurant terraces is like a summer holiday without the sea: unimaginable! Chosen for their charming terraces and great value for money, keep a note of these addresses on your tablets.

fresh under the sun

UNIQUE IN PARIS

Le Congrès Maillot

www.congres-maillot.com 80, avenue de la Grande Armée - Paris 17th Tel. 01 45 74 17 24 Open 7 days a week from 7.30am to 2am Valet parking available

All inclusive menu

From the appetizer to coffee, a wide choice of 12 entrees, 12 dishes, 12 desserts and 7 wines

www.chez-andre.com 12, rue Marbeuf - Paris 8th - Tel. 01 47 20 59 57 Open 7 days a week from 12 noon - 1am

Les Grandes Marches

www.grandes-marches.com 6, place de la Bastille - Paris 12th Tel. 01 43 42 90 32 Open 7 days a week from 8am - 1am Valet parking available

L’Auberge Dab LE GRAND BISTRO

LE GRAND BISTRO

www.auberge-dab.com BRETEUIL MUETTE 161, avenue LARGE TERRACE Malakoff - Paris 16thTERRACE Tel. 01 45 00 32 22 3, place de Breteuil 10, chaussée de la Muette ème ème Open a week from 12 noon to16 3pm Paris77 days Paris and from 7pm to 2am - Valet parking available •

01 45 67 07 27

01 45 03 14 84

LE GRAND BISTRO

17 ème

LARGE TERRACE•

108, avenue de Villiers Paris 17 ème

01 47 63 32 77

LE GRAND BISTRO

VALET SERVICE

Agence-pashmina.com - Crédit photo : Shutterstock

For 44 e, you’ve got it

Chez André

MAILLOT ST-FERDINAND TERRACE•

275, boulevard Péreire Paris 17 ème

01 45 74 33 32

Enjoy a complimentary glass of Champagne upon presentation of this page.

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W h e r e pA r i s

If you are in the mood for a chic bistro table then step into the sun-filled Le Tournesol restaurant that has been completely renovated and has brought the 1920s back with its very chic dÊcor. The authentic bistro that has been around since 1927 has had a makeover, and is now adorned in dazzling gold and serves authentic bistro fare. Located in the very chic 16th arrondissement not too far from the Passy shopping district and the emblematic Eiffel Tower, Le Tournesol is a great address to enjoy simple food, in a glamorous dining room that transports you to another time. To start enjoy the saucisson served with fresh radish and butter or try the classic French snails. The traditional tartare is also served here and if you are looking for something less Frenchy you will also find a juicy bacon cheeseburger on the menu. For dessert don’t miss the homemade chocolate mousse, served in a huge bowl, it is made to share for 2, 3 or 4 people, a sweet note to end your dinner party with. - S.I. 2 ave de Lamballe (16th), 01 45 25 95 94

Le TournesoL Š GuiLLermo AnieL-QuiroGA

Le Tournesol

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[DINING]

AL FRESCO

CAFE MARLY Contemporary In the Louvre, a trendy café-restaurant with an interior view over a sculpture gallery and an outdoor dining area overlooking the Louvre’s glass pyramid. Daily 8am-2am. €€ (Cards: all) 93 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.49.26.06.60. M° Palais Royal GEORGES World Cuisine Trendy restaurant on the roof of the Pompidou Center, with surprisingly good world cuisine (crispy duck, swordfish with coriander), a spaceage decor and a spectacular view. Wed-Mon L&D until 2am. €€€ (Cards: all). Reservations required. Centre Pompidou, level 6. Place Pompidou (4th), 01.44.78.47.99. M° Rambuteau LAURENT Gourmet. This gourmet 1-star Michelin restaurant serving sophisticated cuisine in a beautiful setting with a garden is a Parisian institution. The finest produce and products are used to prepare seasonal French cuisine with a contemporary touch. Signature dishes include spider crab with fennel cream and squid cannelloni. Mon-Fri L & D, Sat D only. €€€€ (AE, Diners, MC, V). 41 ave Gabriel (8th), 01.42.25.00.39. M° Champs-Elysées Clemenceau MAISON BLANCHE Contemporary Chef Hervé Nepple serves cuisine for the senses, inventive, savoury and refined fare. Located

on the 7th floor of the Théâtre des Champs Elysées, the restaurant with its garden terrace overlooks the Eiffel Tower. You can also enjoy the establishment’s terrace where you can sip a cocktail or champagne. Mon-Fri L&D/Sat-Sun D €€€€ (AE, MC, V) 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.23.55.99. M° Alma Marceau MONSIEUR BLEU Contemporary This brasserie serves excellent French contemporary fare as well as international dishes. Well-prepared French dishes include steak tartare, frogs’ legs with garlic and parsley and calf’s liver flavoured with pomegranate juice. Tucked inside the Palais de Tokyo its terrace has splendid views of the Eiffel Tower. Daily, continuous service from 12pm to 2am. €€ (V). 20 ave du President Wilson (16th), 01.47.20.90.47. M° Iéna LES OMBRES Contemporary. The spectacular rooftop restaurant of Musée du Quai Branly, directly beneath the Eiffel Tower serves contemporary French cuisine with an exotic touch. Daily L&D. €€€/€€€€ (MC, V) 27 quai Branly (7th), 01.47.53.68.00. M° Alma-Marceau L’OPERA RESTAURANT Contemporary. Located at the opera house, this restaurant with a contemporary decor of white and red, offers up a great view of the famous opera neighbourhood

L'Opéra Restaurant

and one of the city’s largest terraces. Serves traditional dishes with a twist and the house dessert, l’Opera. Daily B, L & D 7am-midnight. €€/€€€ (Cards: all) Palais Garnier, place Jacques Rouché (9th), 01.42.68.86.80. M° Opera LE RESTAURANT DU PALAIS ROYAL Classic French Fine fare is prepared by the talented chef Eric Fontanini in this gastronomic restaurant overlooking the gardens of the Palais Royal. Seasonal cuisine and exceptional products are hallmarks of the menu, which changes regularly. Perfectly executed dishes from the classical repertoire can include Turbot Dugléré and breaded sweetbreads. Tues-Sat L & D. €€ (AE, MC, V). 110 galerie de Valois (1st), 01.40.20.00.27. M° Bourse TRES HONORE Brasserie Enjoy traditional French fare in this elegant and comfortable restaurant with a terrace overlooking Marché Saint-Honoré. Culinary specialties include some real finds like crab cakes for starters and a Black Angus T-bone steak with pepper sauce. The menu changes regularly. Daily, non-stop noon to 2am. €€ (AE, MC, V). 35 place du Marché Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.44.86.97.97. M° Opéra w w w.wheretr aveler.c o m 55

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W h e r e pa r i s [ D i n i n g ]

Bottega Romana The recently opened Bottega Romana is our go to casual dining restaurant for pizza on the run. The Italian pizzeria serves 14 different pizzas you can choose from, which you can take take-away or enjoy in the restaurant. Twelve pizzas, including the classic yet very enjoyable Margherita pizza and the delicious Tartufo with a base of a summer truffles cream, are always on the menu, with 2 daily specials, which change daily. The pizzas are freshly prepared every morning and are a delicious slice of Roma right in the heart of Paris. – S.I. 60 rue La Boétie (8th), 08 26 59 49 49

Mary Goodnight Named after a Bond girl, Mary Goodnight is a great address if you are looking for authentic Thai cuisine, a fun ambiance and an outdoor dining area to enjoy the summer breeze on an August evening. The spacious restaurant boasts a terrace, a bar and of course an indoor dining area, with the décor of Mary Goodnight reflecting a contemporary twist to 1930’s Bangkok. The menu, which was created by talented Thai chef Thiou, features a spicy salmon carpaccio seasoned with lime and a refreshing carrot and green papaya salad to start, while mains include a green chicken curry as well as a delicious Phad Thai served with shrimps. For dessert the restaurant offers fresh pineapple and mango as well as chocolate spring rolls if you prefer a sweeter treat to end your meal. Mary Goodnight is open daily from 10am to 2am with last orders taken at 11:30pm and on Sundays an à la carte brunch menu is available between 12 and 3pm. – S.I. 78 rue d’Auteuil (16th), 01 40 71 11 90

SANTOOR A family-run restaurant, Santoor serves authentic Indian cuisine that will transport you to the heart of New Delhi with the menu’s traditional dishes. Discretely located just off the famous Avenue des Champs-Elysées, Santoor awaits atop a flight of stairs with a golden décor inspired by India. The menu here features the simple yet very delicious naan bread as well as different curries to choose from, which can be as mild or as spicy as you like. This cosy table is perfect if you are looking to sample flavoursome dishes in a tranquil ambiance after a day of non-stop shopping along the Avenue des Champs-Elysées. 30 rue Marbeuf (8th), 01 42 56 33 18 56 W H E R E Pa r i s i aU G U s T 2014

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Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac 23 allées Bernard Guionnet • 16101 Cognac Cedex - France Contact : 33 (0) 5 45 35 60 24

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W H E R E PA R I S

DINNER WITH A VIEW For the ultimate view nothing beats a meal aboard a Bateaux-Mouches, the famous boat cruise that takes you on a romantic trip along the River Seine. Every evening at 8.30 and at 1pm every weekend and public holidays, the boat embarks on a voyage where all your senses will be enchanted. Serving freshly prepared dishes, using produce selected every morning, enjoy

the Douce France menu for lunch or choose from either the Excellence or the Prestige menu for dinner with such delights including the foie gras lightly cooked in Sauternes served with a bouquet of mixed greens and gambas tempura served with a spicy avocado cream dip, while for dessert a chocolate and vanilla molten cake served with a pistachio custard sauce

awaits. As you float through the City of Light your meal will be punctuated with the city’s magnificent monuments, the Eiffel Tower, Notre Dame and Musée d’Orsay all the while a lively atmosphere is created for you with timeless music playing in the background. Bateaux-Mouches, Port Conférence/ Pont de l'Alma (8th), 01 42 25 96 10 www.bateaux-mouches.fr

SHINSEKI On the Left Bank of the French capital, in the Saint-Germain-des-Prés neighbourhood, you will find Shinseki, a traditional Japanese restaurant serving authentic dishes with a side of live music. The restaurant, open Tuesday to Saturday, hosts a live show by Terrance Gelenter every Thursday evening. Serenading diners as they enjoy tempura, maki rolls and gyõzas, Terrance performs famous songs, both American and French, with Sheldon Forrest on keyboards. 6 rue de Montfaucon (6th), 01 43 26 37 62 58 W H E R E PA R I S I AU G U S T 2014

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[Dining]

RATN

INDIANÊ MOGHOLÊ GASTRONOMYÊ SEAFOOD RESTAURANTS LE BAR A HUITRES This is the place to go for fabulous seafood platters, finely prepared fresh fish dishes and one of the best and most eclectic selections of oysters in the French capital. Main course dishes include French sea bass, lobster from Brittany and filet of beef. Valet parking. Daily,noon-midnight. €€€ (Cards: all) www.lebarahuitres.com. 112 blvd Montparnasse (14th) , 01.43.20.71.01. M° Vanvin; 69 ave Wagram (17th), noon-2:30pm & 7pm-midnight, 01.43.80.63.54. M° Ternes LA COUPOLE This vast 1930’s landmark brasserie has been serving fairly good food lately, but the best bet is still the big seafood platters. Mon-Fri 8 am-1 am, Sat/Sun 8:30am-1:30 am. €€ (Cards: all) 102 blvd du Montparnasse (14th), 01.43.20.14.20. M° Vavin L’EUROPEEN A modern brasserie with a Belle Epoque decor serving fresh oysters and classic dishes such as choucroute de la mer (sauerkraut and fish) and beef tenderloin with Béarnaise sauce. Daily 7:30am-1am. €€ (AE, JCB, MC, V) 21bis blvd Diderot (12th), 01.43.43.99.70. M° Gare de Lyon

4TheÊ MagicÊ ofÊ India,Ê openÊ everyÊ day,Ê 12pmÊ -Ê 2.45pmÊ /Ê Ê 7.15pm-11.45pm 4RecommendedÊ byÊ Michelin,Ê GaultÊ Millau,Ê Pudlo,Ê Bottin 4BusinessÊ lunch,Ê airÊ conditioned

SinceÊ 1976,Ê theÊ BhallaÊ family,Ê originallyÊ fromÊ NewÊ Delhi,Ê excelsÊ inÊ IndianÊ MogholÊ GastronomyÊ ofÊ theÊ 17thÊ centuryÊ andÊ immortalisesÊ theÊ beautifulÊ northÊ IndianÊ culinaryÊ traditions. RATN invites you to discover the finest specialties in tandoori and curries.

9Ê rueÊ deÊ laÊ Tremoille,Ê ParisÊ 8thÊ (Metro:Ê GeorgeÊ V)Ê Ê Ê -Ê Ê Ê Tel:Ê 01Ê 40Ê 70Ê 01Ê 09

www.restaurantratn.com

GARNIER Terrific seafood oriented brasserie just across from the Gare Saint Lazare. Some of the best oysters in Paris in season, and a wonderful vestpocket oyster bar just inside the front door. Daily L&D. €€ (Cards: Visa, MC, AE) 111 rue Saint Lazare (8th), 01.43.87.50.40. M° Saint Lazare

RECH © piERRE monEtta

RECH This stylish seafood brasserie serves up fine fare making it one of the best places to eat fish in the capital. Try the salad of strips of steamed sole served with a garlic mayonnaise followed by a slow-cooked salmon with a dressing of chopped tomato and basil. Tues-Sat L&D. €€€ (Cards: all) www.rech.fr. Open from the 25th of August. 62 ave des Ternes (17th), 01.45.72.29.47. M° Ternes

Footsteps from the Place Vendôme, this mythical Japanese restaurant has been re-designed by the architects Gilles & Boissier. Chef Ozuru, formerly of Nobu Paris, prepares Japanese gastronomy that brings together the traditional and the modern.

Rech

9 rue du Mont Thabor (M° Tuileries) Tel: 01.42.60.65.07 www.kinugawa.fr / www.blackcode.fr w w w.wheretr aveler.c o m 59

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W H E R E PA R I S

PARKS AND PASTRIES

DEVILISH DESSERTS

What better way to start or end your stroll through the Jardins du Luxembourg than with a delicious Parisian pastry from Angelina. The famous tearoom has opened another casual dining café just at the entrance of the Musée du Luxembourg in the gardens and offers all our favourite desserts. The house’s specialty, the Mont Blanc has been updated for the summer with a more fruitier variation of the original and given a heart of strawberries, don’t fret though as the original pastry is also available for fans who prefer sticking to the classic option. Other summer-inspired pastries include the raspberry pistachio tart and the La Courtisane, an edible tower with a macaron biscuit base topped with Earl Grey tea-flavoured cream, a berry compote and fresh raspberries. – S.I. 19 rue de Vaugirard (6th), 01 46 34 31 19

World-famous chef Alain Ducasse and the equally talented pastry chef Christophe Michalak have come together to bring us the wickedly delicious Choux d’Enfer. The food truck found facing the Seine, just 2 steps away from the Eiffel Tower, is the first truck in Paris to serve sweet and savoury choux that are prepared on the spot. Open daily from 9am to 8.30pm, you can stop on your way to the Tower or on your way down from it to try the different choux flavours, which include chocolate and salted butter caramel, and for our readers who have less of a sweet tooth there is the Comté cheese-flavoured choux and the curry and Espelette pepper one. This is a recommended stop for kids and adults. - S.I. Choux d’Enfer is located on the corner of rue Jean Rey and Quai Branly (15th), 01 47 83 26 67

The popular Marais neighbourhood in Paris recently welcomed a very popular tearoom. Café Pouchkine has opened its second space in the city and is proving very difficult for passers-by to walk right by and not be tempted to walk in to sample pastry chef Damien Piscioneri’s pretty pastries. In an opulent Russian décor you will find classic éclairs and macarons delicately displayed next to Russian specialties including the Medovick, a rich layered honey cake with Russian sgushenka cream. - S.I. Open daily. 2 rue des Francs Bourgeois (4th), 01 42 72 97 05

CHOUX D’ENFER PHOTO © HELENE HILAIRE

Café Pouchkine

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[DINING]

REFINED INDIAN GASTRONOMY

BEST OF Top Parisian Addresses for the Best and Sweetest…

Open every day, 12pm-2:30pm / 7pm-11:30pm ● Business Lunch, friendly service, air-conditioned ● Recommended by several gastronomic guides

PARIS BREST LA PÂTISSERIE DES RÊVES 111 rue de Longchamp (16th), 01 47 04 00 24 Closed from 11th to 25th of August MILLEFEUILLE MONSIEUR BLEU RESTAURANT 20 ave de New York (16th), 01 47 20 90 47 MONT BLANC ANGELINA 226 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01 42 60 82 00 CHOCOLATE ECLAIR STOHRER 51 rue Montorgueil (2nd), 01 42 33 38 20 Closed from 4th to 18th of August SALTED CARAMEL MACARON CARETTE 4 place du Trocadéro (16th), 01 47 27 98 85 NUTELLA CREPE 142 CRÊPERIE CONTEMPORAINE 59 rue Saint Charles (15th), 01 40 59 84 01 FRENCH TOAST ECLECTIC 2 rue Linois (15th), 01 77 36 70 00

Steps away from La Défense and Porte Maillot, Ashiana invites you to discover “house” specialties in north Indian tandoori and curries in a charming environment. Excellent address to encounter India since 1986.

205 ave Charles-de-Gaulle, 92200 Neuilly Sur Seine (Metro: Pont de Neuilly) Tel: 01 46 24 52 43 / www.restaurantashiana.com

  DURAND DUPONT FRENCH CUISINE

4Open 4 4O Open pen everyday, service non stop from 8am to 2am 4 4Brunch Brunch every Sunday 4Patio available4Afterwork DJ’s 4 Patio and terrace available Afterwork Monday to Saturday evenings with DJ D J’s ’s

Situated on a quiet square in the west of Paris, next to Porte Maillot, this restaurant not only offers delicious French fare but also a charming terrace to soak in the Parisian sun. Durand Dupont is an ideal table for a business lunch or a dinner in the intimate patio. And from the cellar, you can enjoy the ideal wine choosen by the best sommeliers to accompany a variety of dishes.

For a starter enjoy tuna carpaccio with kaffir lime, then savour grilled sea bass with mashed potatoes and morel mushroom cream, followed by a tasty dessert of red berry yarrow.

Eclectic

14 Place du Marché (92 - Neuilly sur Seine) / Metro: Porte Maillot / Les Sablons Tel: 01 41 92 93 00 www.duranddupont.com

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W H E R E PA R I S

[DINING]

GOING GUINGUETTE B Y PAT R I C I A V A L I C E N T I

La Guinguette de Neuilly

T

raditional French music, food and drink can be enjoyed in the appetite-whetting atmosphere of a guinguette, open-air establishments found perched on the banks of the Seine and the Marne in the Paris region. They initially emerged on the landscape in the 18th and 19th centuries when the greater Paris region was a wine-producing area. Accordion music, red and white checked table cloths and a bucolic river outdoor setting are hallmarks of guinguettes, which were immortalised in French paintings like Auguste Renoir’s Le Déjeuner des Canotiers and Vincent van Gogh’s La Guinguette. Though not as numerous as they once were, an authentic experience is to be had in one of the guinguettes in and around the French capital. The food is simple, good value and thoroughly French with fare ranging from hearty terrines, cold cuts and “friture”, fried fish, often smelts, followed by meat and potato dishes. A cheese platter and desserts round out the meal, which can be followed by dancing and a ball. La Guinguette de Neuilly located on the scenic Ile de la Jatte features a peaceful environment and serves some nice fare including carpaccio of sea bass for starters and prime rib from the Aubrac or calf’s liver with homemade purée for main dishes. Hearty salads, typical guinguette fare, and a

daily special are all on the agenda. The suburban tradition has entered centre stage in Paris with La Guinguette, an open-air venue in the guinguette tradition, which swings in during the summer months on Friday evenings at the foot of the Eiffel Tower from 7pm to 2am. Cocktails, rosé wine, a DJ and finger foods are all on the agenda here. Some of the most celebrated guinguettes were found on the banks of the Marne River outside of Paris. Chez Gégène, established in 1918, remains one of the classic guinguettes in the Paris region in the scenic town of Joinville-le-Pont. Fare, including the famous friture, is served from a menu that changes with the seasons, while the main attraction here remains the music, dance and ambiance. Dancing dinners are held on Saturdays followed by a ball with an orchestra while dancing lunches are held on Sundays, also followed by a ball with an orchestra. Meanwhile, over at the Guinguette of the Ile du Martin Pêcheur steamed mussels with chips are served in season while starters include the “friture” of the day or snails sautéed with mushrooms while hearty main dishes include chitterling and calf’s liver. There is live music on Friday and Saturday evenings and Sunday noon throughout the month of August. The establishment, which opened its doors in 1993, is nestled in a setting of peaceful greenery and tasty white wine is served from casks.

La Guinguette at the foot of the Eiffel Tower

ADDRESSES (Reservations are essential for the guinguettes outside of Paris) LA GUINGUETTE DE NEUILLY Ile de la Jatte, 12 blvd Georges Seurat, Neuilly-sur-Seine (92), 01 46 24 25 04 LA GUINGUETTE At the foot of the Eiffel Tower, 06 40 59 90 57. Dinner is by reservation only. CHEZ GÉGÈNE 162bis allée des Guinguettes, Quai de Polangis, Joinville-le-Pont (94), 01 48 83 29 43 LA GUINGUETTE DE L’ILE DU MARTIN PÊCHEUR 41 Quai Victor Hugo, Champigny-sur-Marne (94), 01 49 83 03 02

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[address book]

dining g o u r m e t s e r v i c e at y o u r f i n g e r t i p s

Around Louvre & PALAis royAL (1st, 2nd) Au Coin Des Gourmets - CAmboDiAnVietnAmese-LAotiAn (€€). A very popular restaurant run by the charming Ta family, serving excellent Asian food. The Vietnamese ravioli may be the best in town. Reasonable prices, good wines. Mon-Sat L&D. 38 rue du Mont-Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.79.79. Mº Concorde Aux LYonnAis - bistro (€€). A beautiful 1890 bistro now co-owned by superchef Alain Ducasse, offering spiffed-up and modernized Lyon specialties: baked eggs with crawfish, roast chicken with mushrooms, tomatoes and onions in vinegar glaze. Tue-Fri L&D, Sat D. 32 rue St-Marc (2nd),01.42.96.65.04. M° Richelieu-Drouot beef CLub - bistro (€€€). As its name implies this bistro serves fine beef and meat dishes. Sumptuous cuts of beef are served baked or grilled and the burgers are served on a homemade bun. Starters include oysters, beef marrow and asparagus. Daily D only. 58 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1st), 09.54.37.13.65. M° Etienne Marcel bistro VoLnAY - bistrot (€€€). Good, authentic French food in a relaxed, friendly setting with a first-rate wine list including an excellent value Volnay. The cheese tray is superb and generously served. Mon-Fri L&D. 8 rue Volney (2nd), 01.42.61.06.65. Mº Opéra bistrot riCheLieu - CLAssiC frenCh (€€). This bistro with an inviting terrace serves up traditional French fare. Typical classics like onion soup and snails from Burgundy can be savoured for starters. Be tempted by the breast of duck in fig sauce or the sea bass in basil cream. Continuous service 9am-11:30pm. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 45 rue de Richelieu (1st), 01.42.60.19.16. Mº Palais Royal DjAkArtA bALi - inDonesiAn (€). An excellent restaurant run by a charming, English-speaking brother-and-sister team. Try lumpia (deep-fried spring rolls), or ayam jahe (chicken caramelized in ginger). Tue-Sun L&D. 9 rue Vauvilliers (1st), 01.45.08.83.11. Mº Louvre-Rivoli Goust - Gourmet (€€€). Located on the first floor of a Napoleon III mansion, this one-star restaurant near the Place Vendôme offers gastronomic Mediterranean-style cuisine accompanied by first-rate service. The menus change regularly but dishes can include tuna tartar with mango sauce or prawns with mushrooms. Tues-Sun. L&D. 10 rue Volney (2nd), 01 40 15 20 30. M° Opéra kinuGAwA - jApAnese (€€€). Footsteps from the Place Vendôme, this mythical Japanese restaurant has been re-designed by the architects Gilles & Boissier. Chef Ozuru, formerly of Nobu Paris, prepares Japanese gastronomy that brings together the traditional and the modern. Mon-Sun L&D. 9 rue Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.65.07. M° Tuileries Le bAuDeLAire - meDiterrAneAn (€€€). At this one-star restaurant, opening onto a quiet

patio in the Burgundy Hotel, Chef Pierre Rigothier prepares seasonal products underscored by a menu that changes regularly while pastry chef Stéphane Tranchet prepares delicious desserts. L, Mon-Fri, D, Tues-Sat. 6-8 rue Duphot (1st), 01.42.60.34.12. Mº Madeleine Le Costes - CLAssiC frenCh (€€€). Très chic hotel restaurant with Napoleon III decor and plenty of attitude. The food’s okay but the star-studded scene’s the thing. Pretty interior patio. Daily B, L, D. 239 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.42.44.50.25. Mº Tuileries wiLLi’s wine bAr - bistrot (€€). This convivial establishment, popular with wine lovers, serves perfectly prepared fresh seasonal fare from a menu that changes daily. You can also dine at the long polished oak bar. The restaurant offers a diverse and delicious selection of wines served by the glass or bottle. Reservations are strongly recommended. Mon-Fri, L&D, Sat, D only. 13 rue des Petits Champs (1st), 01.42.61.05.09. M° Pyramides L’esCArGot montorGueiL - CLAssiC frenCh (€€€€). Within the authentic, beautiful walls of Second Empire decor delect truly fine food. Snails, of course remain a specialty with the freshest of fish or hearty meat dishes following. Classic desserts like crepes Suzette and Grand Marnier soufflé are prepared to perfection. Daily L&D. 38 rue Montorgueil (1st), 01.42.36.83.51. M° Etienne Marcel Le GrAnD Vefour - moDern CLAssiC (€€€€). The opulent two-star restaurant in the Palais Royal arcades that has been serving the Parisian beau monde since the 1700s. Among chef Guy Martin’s superb dishes are the foie gras ravioli with truffle jus. Mon-Fri L&D, Fri. L only. 17 rue de Beaujolais (1st), 01.42.96.56.27. Mº Palais Royal Le LAmfé - CLAssiC frenCh (€).Serving traditional cuisine in a cosy ambiance with plenty of charm. Once you’ve settled in, the staff will suggest a list of starters like the baked Camembert with thyme or the home-made foie gras from Les Landes. Refined appetizers, like a classic marrow bone, are followed by fine beef dishes including a noble rib steak. Tues-Sat L&D until 11pm. 7 rue des Prouvaires (1st), 01.45.08.04.10. Mº Châtelet Le meuriCe-ALAin DuCAsse - moDern CLAssiC (€€€€€). A stunning 18th-century room offers a gastronomic menu featuring sumptuous 3-star cuisine that changes with the seasons. Daily B, L (except Sat), D. Hôtel Meurice, 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.58.10.44. Mº Tuileries Le LouChebem - bistro (€). Located in the heart of the historic Les Halles district, this establishment is currently in the hands of the fourth generation of the same family. From the cooked ham on the bone to an authentic salad of pot au feu, everything here is homemade. Mon-Sat L&D. 31 rue Berger (1st), 01.42.33.12.99. Mº Châtelet/Les Halles Le restAurAnt Du pALAis roYAL - CLAssiC frenCh (€€). Fine fare is prepared by the talented chef Eric Fontanini in this gastronomic

restaurant overlooking the gardens of the Palais Royal. Seasonal cuisine and exceptional products are hallmarks of the menu, which changes regularly. Perfectly executed dishes from the classical repertoire can include Turbot Dugléré and breaded sweetbreads. Tues-Sat L&D. 110 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.40.20.00.27. M° Bourse Le souffLé - CLAssiC frenCh (€€). This is the place to taste one of France’s finest specialties, the souffle. Attentive service and superb quality await in this restaurant established in 1961. Faithful to traditional cuisine, in addition to over 20 different kinds of souffles, a classic French menu is proposed. Mon-Sat L&D. 36 rue du Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.27.19. Mº Concorde pAssAGe 53 - bistro (€€€). Japanese chef Shinichi Sato prepares superb French cuisine with a light Japanese touch using the finest of ingredients, like meat from Desnoyer. Located in the oldest covered arcade in town, this two-star restaurant offers an authentically Parisian experience. Tues-Sat. L&D. 53 passage des Panoramas (2nd), 01.42.33.04.35. Mº Grands Boulevards LA tour De montLhérY-Chez Denise bistro (€€). This traditional bistro serves up excellent, copious fare in the Les Halles neighbourhood where the city’s great food market once was. The chips and terrines are house-made, calf’s liver is done up English style and the beef is from the Limousin region of France. Mon-Fri L&D, open until 5am. 5 rue des Prouvaires (1st), 01.42.36.21.82. M° Les Halles

Le MArAis (3rd, 4th) Chez juLien - CLAssiC frenCh (€€). Fine seasonal and regional products are served in a charming Belle Epoque atmosphere. Offerings can include Bresse chicken with potatoes from the isle of Noirmoutier. Marble tables, woodwork by Majorelle and a view out onto the Saint Gervais church, the Seine and Notre Dame beyond add to the fine dining experience. Daily L&D. 1 rue du Pont Louis-Philippe (4th), 01.42.78.31.64. M° Pont Marie Don juAn ii - Gourmet (€€€€). The Don Juan II is filled with the charm and elegance of a great yacht, offering a delicious cruise through the heart of Paris. In a calm and luxurious atmosphere enjoy the gastronomic cuisine of Guy Krenzer, who has been awarded the finest craftsman of France title. Daily D. Port Henri IV (4th), 01.44.45.14.71. M° Sully-Morland GeorGes - worLD Cuisine (€€€). Trendy restaurant on the roof of the Pompidou Center, with surprisingly good world cuisine (crispy duck, swordfish with coriander), a space-age decor and a spectacular view. Wed-Mon L&D until 2 am. Reservations required. Centre Pompidou, level 6. Place Pompidou (4th), 01.44.78.47.99. Mº Rambuteau L’Ambroisie - hAute Cuisine (€€€€€). In a beautiful 17th-century mansion in the Place des Vosges, media-shy three-star chef Bernard Pacaud is renowned for splendid renditions of deceptively simple dishes such as lobster ravioli with truffles or langoustine feuillantine with sesame and curry. Fabulous foie gras. Tue-Sat L&D. 9 Place des Vosges (4th), 01.42.78.51.45. Mº St-Paul Le serGent reCruteur - Gourmet (€€€). This one-star restaurant serves market-based cuisine that changes on a daily basis. Meats of an exceptional quality, fresh-caught fish from the Loire River, homemade butter and a blend of coffee made especially for the house are all on the agenda. Tues-Sun L&D. 41 rue St-Louis-en-L’Ile (4th), 01.43.54.75.43. M° Pont Marie

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L&D: Breakfast, lunch & dinner only. 64 W H E R E Pa r i s i aU G U s T 2014

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Please be advised that some of the restaurants in our listings may be closed during part or all of the month of August. We suggest that you or your concierge call ahead to be sure.

QuArtier LAtin & sAint-GerMAin (5th, 6th) A LC A z A r - b r A s s e r i e ( € € € ) . E n g l i s h restaurateur Terence Conran’s big, cool, noisy brasserie-bar, with contemporary French and fusion dishes such as scallops with grapefruit and green papaya. Daily L&D until 1 am. 62 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.53.10.19.99. Mº Odéon Au mouLin à Vent - bistro (€€). This charming bistro located in one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Paris is known for the quality of its Salers beef and its specialties of the Beaujolais region. Among the authentic offerings are prime rib with Béarnaise sauce, calf’s liver and frog legs. A delightful dessert is the Baba au rhum. Valet parking. Tues–Fri L&D/ Sat D only. 20 rue des Fossés-St-Bernard (5th), 01.43.54.99.37. M° Jussieu breAkfAst in AmeriCA - AmeriCAn (€). For a traditional American diner serving classic burgers and breakfasts, including pancakes with real maple syrup. Daily 8:30 am-11 pm. 17 rue des Ecoles (5th), 01.43.54.50.28. Mº Cardinal Lemoine CAfé De fLore - bistrot (€€). The legendary café made famous in the 1950s by Jean-Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir and other Left Bank intellectuals. The atmosphere is still Parisian, the fare limited to (expensive) drinks and light snacks and traditional desserts. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 172 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.26. Mº St-Germain-des-Prés CAfé Des Deux mAGots - CAfé (€€). The other legendary Left Bank café, still going strong long after its 1950s heyday. The corner location facing the church makes it slightly more touristy than the rival Café de Flore, and prices are equally high, but it remains an authentic Parisian favourite. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 6 Place Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.25. Mº St-Germain-des-Prés héLène DArroze - southwestern frenCh (€€). Young chef Hélène Darroze serves up southwestern French specialties in this contemporary one-star restaurant. The casual ground floor Salon d’Hélène serves upscale tapas. Tue-Sat L&D. 4 rue d’Assas (6th), 01.42.22.00.11. Mº Sèvres Babylone

LA tour D’ArGent - CLAssiC frenCh (€€€€€). A Paris institution from another era, now with only one star, but still offering its famous numbered pressed duck and an absolutely magical view of Notre-Dame. Tues-Sat L&D. 15-17 Quai de la Tournelle (5th), 01.43.54.23.31. Mº Maubert-Mutualité

reLAis Louis xiii See this page

LA truffière - southwestern frenCh (€€€). Cozy one-star restaurant in a 17th-century vaulted cellar serving southwestern French cuisine, including foie gras and black and white truffle dishes, and menus that change with the seasons. 2,400 bottle wine list. Tue-Sun L&D. 4 rue de Blainville (5th), 01.46.33.29.82. Mº Place Monge Le montpArnAsse 1900 - CLAssiC frenCh (€€). Sumptuous food in a sumptuous decor. A stunning Art Nouveau setting in this registered historical monument surrounds you as you delight in a fine selection of grilled meats and finely prepared dishes. Daily L&D. 59 blvd Montparnasse (6th), 01.45.49.19.00. Mº Montparnasse-Bienvenue/Vavin reLAis Louis xiii - CLAssiC frenCh (€€€€). In a wood-beamed medieval townhouse, two-star chef Manuel Martinez serves delicious dishes revolving around seasonal products. Fine wine list. Tue-Sat, L&D. 8 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.75.96. Mº St-Michel shinseki - jApAnese (€€). Enjoy classic Japanese food in an elegant Saint Germain setting. Sushi, sashimi, donburi and tempura are among the highlights on the menu and the salmon is organic. Excellent French wines are part of the dining experience. Enjoy a complimentary glass of champagne upon presentation of this page. MonSat L&D. 6 rue Montfaucon (6th), 01.43.26.37.62. M° Mabillon/Odéon

héLène DArroze See this page

tAokAn - Chinese (€€€). Contemporary Chinese gastronomy is served in this elegantly decorated restaurant. An excellent dim sum is among the offerings while starters include crispy shrimp rolls or peppery beef with a tasty herb salad. Main courses include whole sole served with ginger soy marinade or duck in Hoisin sauce with dainty pancakes. Valet parking available. Mon-Sat L&D. 8 rue du Sabot (6th), 01.42.84.18.36. M° St-Sulpice ze kitChen GALerie - fusion (€€). Ze silly name aside, chef William Ledeuil’s chic restaurant offers excellent soups, marinated fish, pasta starters and main courses a la plancha. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D. 4 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.44.32.00.32. Mº St Michel

©Eric Laignel

nos AnCÊtres Les GAuLois - CLAssiC frenCh (€€). Dine in hearty, bountiful Gaulic splendour fit for a feast. Enjoy the rustic décor and tavern ambiance, a great board and rousing guitar music. Daily, D, from 7pm, L, Sat & Sun only, noon-3pm. 39 rue St Louis en l’Ile (4th), 01.46.33.66.07. Mº Pont Marie

LApérouse - Gourmet (€€€). This elegant restaurant on the Seine serves finely prepared gastronomic French cuisine. Starters include crayfish ravioli or foie gras with 12 spices. A nice main course is the aged house steak. Private dining rooms may be reserved as well. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat, D only. 51 Quai des Grands Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.68.04. Mº St-Michel

juLes Verne See page 66

Around the eiffeL tower & Les invALides (7th)

LA LoCAnDA - itALiAn (€€). Rediscover favourite Italian classics from throughout the peninsula in this comfortable and chic restaurant in Saint Germain des Prés. Superb antipasti dishes as well as pasta “al dente” (home-made ravioli, lasagna and gnocchi). Fish and seafood direct from the sea and “tartufo” specialties every day. Excellent selection of Italian wines (Barolo, Brunello, Tignanello). Daily L&D. 8 rue du Dragon (6th), 01.45.44.12.53. M° St Germain des Prés

58 tour eiffeL - CLAssiC frenCh (€€). Located on the 1st floor of the Eiffel Tower this is a great place for a lunch or dinner while enjoying a breathtaking view. This restaurant proffers a chic picnic for lunch, among the offerings: seared salmon, Caesar salad and gourmet hamburgers (served until 5:30). Daily L&D. Champ de Mars (7th), 08.25.56.66.62. Mº Ecole Militaire

LA meDiterrAnee - seAfooD (€€). A bright and beautiful, mostly seafood restaurant with marvelous wall paintings and a glass-walled terrace facing the Odéon theater. It once welcomed the likes of Liz Taylor and Orson Welles, as the discreet photos on the stairwell attest. Daily L&D until 11 pm. 2 Place de l’Odéon (6th), 01.43.26.02.30. M° Odéon

ArpeGe - ContemporArY (€€€€€). Three-star chef Alain Passard’s menu is now half vegetarian serving ravioli with vegetables, Cévennes onions with Parmesan, and his famous tomato dessert though carnivores can find dishes like squab with sugared almonds. Mon-Fri L&D. 84 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.47.05.09.06. Metro: Varenne

© Love Editions

minimes - brAsserie (€€€). This brasserie in the Marais neighbourhood serves contemporary French cuisine in a relaxing atmosphere with an upstairs dining room offering a boudoir décor. Enjoy a classic foie gras or a fresh artichoke salad flavoured with truffle oil. Daily B, L&D. 36 rue de Turenne (3rd), 01.42.71.36.70. M° Chemin Vert

Le GrAnD Vefour See page 64

Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above. w w w.wheretr aveler.c o m 65

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[address book]

g o u r m e t s e r v i c e at y o u r f i n g e r t i p s

juLes Verne - hAute Cuisine (€€€€). This gastronomic gem is a very expensive restaurant in the Eiffel Tower taken over by multiple-star chef Alain Ducasse. The Jules Verne has been awarded one Michelin star. Treat yourself to “haute-cuisine” with the most spectacular view of Paris. Daily L&D. Eiffel Tower, 2nd floor (7th), 01.45.55.61.44. Mº Bir-Hakeim

LA tAbLe Du LAnCAster - fusion (€€€€). This delightful one-star establishment serves creative, light and elegant meals crafted by chef Julien Roucheteau whose seasonal menus revolve around a specific product. Dishes can include herb-roasted saddle of lamb for a starter followed by sole with chives. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat-Sun D. Hôtel Lancaster, 7 rue de Berri (8th), 01.40.76.40.18. Mº George V

L’Ami jeAn - CLAssiC frenCh (€€€). Don’t let the banal facade confuse you, this is a great choice for authentic French cooking. Chef Stéphane Jégo serves up generous portions of regional delicacies, with an accent on wild game, as well as delicious seafood platters. Tues-Sat L&D. 27 rue Malar (7th), 01.47.05.86.89. Mº La Tour-Maubourg

Le piChet De pAris - CLAssiC frenCh (€€€). This quintessential Parisian eating establishment serves classic French fare in a warm setting. Specialities include superb seafood, perfectly prepared fish dishes like fresh cod with olive oil and basil and rack of lamb. Homemade pastries are featured on the dessert menu. Mon-Fri, L&D, Sat, D only. 68 rue Pierre Charron (8th), 01.43.59.50.34. Mº George V

L’AteLier De joeL robuChon - bistro (€€€). The 2-star lunch-counter restaurant of chef Joel Robuchon serves contemporary French dishes such as a foie gras burger. No reservations, and sometimes a long wait outside. Daily L&D until 11 pm. 5 rue Montalembert (7th), 01.42.22.56.56. M° Rue du Bac Le bistrot Du 7e - bistro (€). A pleasant bistrot with a terrace serving traditional French cuisine at reasonable prices. Specialties include lobster terrine and duck breast, dinner is by candlelight. Daily L&D. 56 blvd de La Tour-Maubourg (7th), 01.45.51.93.08. Mº La Tour Maubourg Le CAfé De L’ALmA - ContemporArY (€€). Ensconced on the very Parisian Avenue Rapp this is a chic and convivial spot for a meal or a drink on the serene outdoor terrace. The menu features traditional and healthy French fare as well as light and simple dishes from Spain, Italy and the Asian continent. Daily, B, L, D, service until midnight. 5 ave Rapp (7th), 01.45.51.56.74. Mº Alma-Marceau Les ombres - ContemporArY (€€€€). The spectacular glass-domed rooftop restaurant of Musée du Quai Branly, directly beneath the Eiffel Tower. Contemporary French with an exotic touch: foie gras terrine with mango chutney, roast lamb with gingerbread and zucchini ravioli. Daily L&D. 27 Quai Branly (7th), 01.47.53.68.00. Mº Alma-Marceau

Around the ChAMPs-eLysées (8th) 114 fAubourG - brAsserie (€€€). An elegant one-star establishment in the Bristol Hotel proffers superb cooking from three-star chef Eric Frechon in a delightful duplex space. Delicious offerings include a rotisserie-roasted chicken and for dessert a millefeuille with salty caramel sauce. 7/7, L&D. 114 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th) , 01.53.43.44.44. Mº Miromesnil 39V - ContemporArY (€€€). This glamorous onestar restaurant, in the heart of the Golden Triangle, sports a modern, streamlined décor. The grilled langoustines in a light citrus sauce are excellent as is the cheesecake. Try the delicious white wine from the Greek island of Tinos. Valet parking in the evening. Mon-Fri L&D. 39 ave George V (8th), 01.56.62.30.05. Mº George V ApiCius - ContemporArY (€€€€). The one-star restaurant of chef Jean-Pierre Vigato, offering a mix of (very expensive) modern and country cooking: lobster ravioli, potato charlotte with caviar. Mon-Fri L&D. 20 rue d’Artois (8th), 01.43.80.19.66. Mº St-Philippe-du-Roule bAteAux-mouChes - CLAssiC frenCh (€€€). Savour homemade duck foie gras with cocoa and ginger to start then try the turbot with vegetable tagliatelle from the Excellence dinner menu. Vegetarian dishes are available, too. Daily departures for dinner at 8:30pm, Sat, Sun and public holidays for lunch at 1pm. Passengers must arrive prior to departure times. Port de la Conférence, Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. Mº Alma-Marceau Chez AnDré - bistro (€€). Superb, authentic bistro cuisine just steps away from the Champs-Elysées. Enjoy solid traditional French food highlighting regional

mAison bLAnChe See this page meats of France and the freshest of fish in a cosy setting. Daily, continuous service L&D. 12 rue Marbeuf (8th), 01.47.20.59.57. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt epiCure - Gourmet (€€€€€). The beautiful dining room looks out over the hotel’s French garden and is a perfect setting for three-star chef Eric Frechon’s remarkable cuisine and superb desserts by pastry chef Laurent Jeannin. Daily L&D. Hôtel Le Bristol, 112 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. Mº Miromesnil fAuChon Le CAfé - Gourmet (€€). This temple to gastronomy is open all day and is a cosy yet sleek restaurant featuring fine and varied fare from foie gras to vanilla millefeuilles. Offering a great view of Place de la Madeleine. Mon-Sat 9am-midnight, B, L&D. Closed Sun. 30 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.70.39.38.39. Mº Madeleine Le 68 pAr GuY mArtin - CLAssiC frenCh (€€). Tucked away downstairs in the historic Guerlain boutique is a restaurant bursting with flavourful dishes. The menu and restaurant have been conceived by starred chef Guy Martin and the dishes draw their inspiration from Guerlain’s famous fragrances. 7/7, continuous, B, L, D. 68 Champs-Elysées (8th) 01.45.62.54.10. M° George V/Franklin D. Roosevelt LeDoYen - Gourmet (€€€€€). An elegant 18th-century pavilion with a Napoleon III decor in the gardens of the Champs-Elysées, where chef Yannick Alléno serves his unique gastronomic cuisine. TueFri L&D, Mon D. Carré des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.05.10.00. M° Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau L’Astor - Gourmet (€€€). Chef Nicolas Clavier’s original and creative dishes include a foie gras and smoked eel delight or seabass in ceviche for starters followed by a snacked cod fish fillet or a Black Angus rib-steak Rossini as a main. MonFri L&D. 11 rue d’Astorg (8th), 01.53.05.05.20. Mº St-Augustin LA sCene - Gourmet (€€€€). This gastronomic restaurant in the Prince de Galles hotel offers an authentic and generous cuisine using remarkable products. For a fish course, succulent French lobster is a fine choice while meat dishes include fine milk-fed veal and wild hare from the Beauce region. Mon-Sat B, L&D, Sun Brunch. 33 ave George V (8th), 01.53.23.78.52. Mº George V Le Cinq - Gourmet (€€€€€). Chef Eric Briffard offers wonderful dishes like purple sea urchin in creamy fennel broth and milk-fed lamb with Espelette pepper. Superbly aged cheeses and delectable desserts, like the Peruvian chocolate stuffed tart, follow in this 2-star establishment. Serious wine list, and fantastic flowers by American florist Jeff Leatham. Daily L&D. Four Seasons Hôtel George V, 31 ave George V (8th), 01.49.52.70.00. Mº George V

Le sAfrAn - Gourmet (€€€). Fine French gastronomy and international cuisine is served in the Art Deco ambiance of this restaurant located inside the Hôtel du Collectionneur. The menu revolves around the seasons. The piano is played on Saturday evenings and Sunday brunch comes complete with free entertainment for children. Daily L&D. 51-57 rue de Courcelles (8th), 01.58.36.67.97. M° Courcelles mAison bLAnChe - ContemporArY (€€€€). Chef Hervé Nepple serves cuisine for the senses, inventive, savoury and refined fare. Located on the 7th floor of the Théâtre des Champs Elysées, the restaurant with its garden terrace overlooks the Eiffel Tower. Mon-Fri L&D/Sat-Sun D. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.23.55.99. Mº Alma Marceau rAtn - inDiAn (€€€). Since 1976, the Bhalla family, originally from New Delhi, excels in the Indian Moghol gastronomy and invites you to discover the fine Moghol specialties in tandoori and curries. A place where you can experience India for it’s traditions and culinary art. Recommended by Gault Millau and Pudlo. Open daily L&D. 9 rue de la Trémoille (8th), 01.40.70.01.09. Mº George V sAntoor - inDiAn (€). Just off the Champs-Elysées, a restaurant specializing in traditional Indian food including tandoori and curries. Mon-Sat L&D, Sun D only. 30 rue Marbeuf (8th), 01.42.56.33.18. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt sAVY - brAsserie (€€). A popular table for journalists, fashion designers and show business people, this establishment offers authentic and traditional French cuisine in a 1930’s art deco decor. The house specialty is Aubrac beef and the house has a fine selection of vintage millesimes wines. Mon-Fri, B, L&D. 23 rue Bayard (8th), 01.47.23.46.98. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt zen GArDen - Chinese (€€). The interior is designed to resemble a Chinese pagoda with an eight-metre high tower and 30 Buddhas, a plethora of hanging plants, numerous water fountains, wind chimes and porcelain vases. The relaxing atmosphere is perfect for savouring gastronomic Chinese cuisine. Daily L&D. 15 rue de Marbeuf (8th), 01.53.23.82.82. M° George V

Around oPérA GArnier & PiGALLe (9th, 10th,18th) bouiLLon ChArtier - CLAssiC frenCh (€). The mythical Parisian eatery where you share a table with students, artists or elegant businessmen. There is a daily set menu but each day enjoy classics like hardboiled eggs with mayonnaise or grated carrots to start followed by a hearty choucroute or chopped steak with chips. Daily continuous service L&D. 7 rue Fbg Montmartre (9th), 01.47.70.86.29. Mº Grands Boulevards CAfé De LA pAix - CLAssiC frenCh (€€€). This classic Parisian institution with its decor of painted ceiling, pillars and murals is an elegant place to watch the world go by over coffee, light meals or drinks from its terraces. Fine fare is featured in the restaurant. On Sundays enjoy one of the biggest buffet brunches

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L&D: Breakfast, lunch & dinner only. 66 W H E R E Pa r i s i aU G U s T 2014

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Please be advised that some of the restaurants in our listings may be closed during part or all of the month of August. We suggest that you or your concierge call ahead to be sure.

in Paris with jazz and a special space for children, available from noon to 3:30pm. Daily B, L&D. 5 Place de l’Opéra (9th), 01.40.07.36.36. Mº Opéra Le CAfé pouChkine - CAfé (€). This delightful tea salon, the Paris branch of the famous Moscow establishment, located in the Printemps department store serves and sells traditional Russian pastries and sweets in a beautiful décor. Excellent hot chocolate and authentic Russian beverages are all on the agenda. Mon-Sat continuous. 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.43.31. M° Havre-Caumartin Le Lumière - Gourmet (€€€). Enjoy lunch, dinner or tea beneath a magnificent glass roof in this lovely place. There are champagne and cheese trolleys and the dessert trolley filled with traditional French pastries like éclairs and millefeuilles is a fine ending to a meal and a good reason to stop in for high tea. Daily L&D. Hôtel Scribe,1 rue Scribe (9th), 01.44.71.74.20. Mº Opéra L’operA restAurAnt - ContemporArY (€€€). Located at the opera house, this restaurant with a contemporary decor of white and red, offers up a great view of the famous opera neighbourhood and one of the city’s largest terraces. Serves traditional dishes with a twist and the house dessert, l’Opera. Daily B, L & D 7am-midnight. Palais Garnier, Place Jacques Rouché (9th), 01.42.68.86.80. Mº Opéra wepLer - brAsserie (€). Superb seafood platters, French onion soup, homemade ice-cream and pastries are just some of the classic delights at this Parisian landmark nestled near Montmartre and Pigalle. Daily 8am12:30am.14 Place de Clichy (18th), 01.45.22.53.24. Mº Place de Clichy

Around BAstiLLe (11th, 12th) bLue eLephAnt - thAi (€€€). Authentic Thai cuisine in a setting of lush plants, orchids and a waterfall. Weekly arrivals of herbs, spices, fruits and other goods direct from Bangkok. The team of Thai chefs prepares jumbo shrimp soup with lemon grass and lamb Massamam among other specialties. 7/7 L& D, Sun brunch & D. 43-45 rue de la Roquette (11th), 01.47.00.42.00. Mº Bastille

opt for a glass of bubbly or a champagne cocktail in their Champagne Bar. Daily L&D. 33 ave du Maine (15th), 01.40.64.77.64. Mº Montparnasse Le GAstroquet - CLAssiC frenCh (€€€). This cosy comfortable restaurant serves up delicious traditional French cuisine. You can sample some briny oysters for starters or a salad of coquilles SaintJacques. Main courses include sautéed turbot and veal liver in a candied lemon sauce. The iced mousse whiskey and Baileys is an original dessert choice. Mon-Sat L&D. 10 rue Desnouettes (15th), 01.48.28.60.91. Mº Convention/Porte de Versailles Le quinzieme - fusion (€€€). One-star star chef Cyril Lignac’s restaurant serves a market-based cuisine of deliciously prepared classics. All inclusive discovery, tasting and champagne menus are also on the agenda. Tues-Fri L&D, Sat D. 14 rue Cauchy, (15th), 01.45.54.43.43. Mº Javel

troCAdéro & Porte MAiLLot (16th, 17th) bon - fusion (€€€). Asian inspiration and international influences abound in this restaurant styled like a private home and decorated by Philippe Starck. Enjoy spicy vegetables, a wide selection of rolls, or a Dim Sum for starters then move onto black cod or sole tempura. Daily L&D. 25 rue de la Pompe (16th), 01.40.72.70.00. Mº La Muette CristAL room bACCArAt - moDern CLAssiC (€€€). A restaurant in the palatial headquarters of the crystal manufacturer, serving rich modern cuisine: lobster thermidor, dessert ravioli with cocoa, parmesan and raisins. Mon-Sat L&D, reservations only. 11 Place des Etats-Unis (16th), 01.40.22.11.10. Mº Boissière

septime - CLAssiC frenCh (€€€). Traditional French fare featuring inventive market-based cuisine from the talented Bertrand Grébaut is on the agenda here. Enjoy selective produce and products like the Banka trout from the Basque country with lentils and coriander in a relaxed atmosphere. TuesFri L, D, Mon D only. 80 rue de Charonne (11th), 01.43.67.38.29. Mº Charonne Les GrAnDes mArChes - brAsserie (€€). A new ownership and a new décor have come to this pillar of the Place de la Bastille. The establishment serves up traditional French fare and superb seafood platters. Tuck into a tasty French onion soup or foie gras to start, followed by cod fillet in a lemon butter sauce or a prime cut of beef. Daily B, L&D. 6 Place de la Bastille (12th), 01.43.42.90.32. Mº Bastille

L’AuberGe DAb - CLAssiC frenCh (€€€). Ample leather wall seats, bay windows, salmon drapes make for a most comfortable dining experience. Start off with some snails from Burgundy or a crab and endive salad seasoned with curry followed by the duck breast in honey and spices. Daily L&D. 161 ave de Malakoff (16th), 01.45.00.32.22. Mº Porte Maillot

Le bAr à huÎtres - seAfooD (€€€). This is the place to go for fabulous seafood platters, finely prepared fresh fish dishes and one of the best and most eclectic selections of oysters in the French capital. Main course dishes include French sea bass, lobster from Brittany and filet of beef. Daily, noon-midnight. 112 blvd Montparnasse (14th), 01.43.20.71.01. Mº Vanvin Le CieL De pAris - Gourmet (€€€). Discover Paris from the 56th floor of the Montparnasse tower. With a breathtaking view, enjoy one of their foie gras offerings or try the delicious seafood. Alternatively,

Le CAfé De L’ALmA See page 66

Le GrAnD bistro sAint ferDinAnD - bistro (€€). This family-style bistro specialises in an allinclusive menu with aperitif, starter, main course, dessert, coffee and bottle of wine for two. Oysters, foie gras, wild sole and duckling from Challans are all on the agenda. Daily L&D. 275 blvd Pereire (17th), 01.45.74.33.32. M° Porte Maillot jAmin - CLAssiC frenCh (€€). The legendary Parisian restaurant is enjoying a renaissance, serving fine food in warm surroundings complemented by welcoming service all of which has earned it two Michelin forks. Alain and David welcome you to enjoy a market-oriented menu. Highlights include authentic snails from Burgundy and blanquette, traditional rich French veal stew. Reservations highly recommended. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat, D only. 32 rue de Longchamp (16th), 01.45.53.00.07. Mº Trocadéro

Around MontPArnAsse (13th, 14th, 15th)

LA sCene See page 66

kinuGAwA See page 64

monsieur bLeu - ContemporArY (€€). This restaurant serves excellent French contemporary fare as well as international dishes. Well-prepared French dishes include steak tartare, frogs’ legs with garlic and parsley and calf’s liver flavoured with pomegranate juice. Tucked inside the Palais de Tokyo its terrace has splendid views of the Eiffel Tower. Daily, continuous from 12pm to 2am. 20 ave du President Wilson (16th), 01.47.20.90.47. M° Iéna shAnG pALACe - Chinese (€€€€). This one-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel serves authentic Chinese cuisine inspired by the culinary traditions of southeast China. The art of Cantonese fine dining comes to life in the main room and three private dining rooms. Thurs-San, L&D. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.92. Mº Iéna

Le CAfé pouChkine See this page

Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above. w w w.wheretr aveler.c o m 67

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W H E R E PA R I S

ENTERTAINMENT BY SANDRA ISKANDER

NEW LOOK FOR A COOL BAR The Andy Wahloo bar has undergone a makeover and it is better than ever. The dĂŠcor, given a complete overhaul, is now sleeker with a sophisticated air of the 30s, making it a perfect spot to enjoy a cocktail with drinks before or after dinner. Tucked discretely in a small street in the trendy 3rd arrondissement, the bar offers an impressive drinks menu, which features almost 100 different whiskies. If after a couple of drinks you get a little bit hungry, the bar offers a menu with dishes ranging from a simple Caesar salad to the more luxe Kristal caviar. Tuesday to Saturday, 6pm to 2am. 69 rue des Gravilliers (3rd), 01 42 71 20 38

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PURPLE TERRACE The Purple Bar is one of the most elegant bars in the city that offers an old-world feel, which transports you to another time, and now the Art Deco bar boasts the Purple Terrace, transporting you to the Garden of Eden. Inviting couches, cosy armchairs and highchairs welcome guests into this outdoor area where classic cocktails are enjoyed in a surrounding of greenery made up of palm trees, orange trees and blooming roses. Open daily from 10am till late, the Purple Terrace is perfect for a drink any time of your perfect Parisian day. 51-57 rue de Courcelles (8th), 01 58 36 67 00

LE TRIANON PHOTO © FRANCK BOHBOT

ROCK THEATRE LE TRIANON One of the capital’s mythical venues. Re-built in 1902, after a devastating fire, it was a favourite haunt of Jacques Brel who wrote some of his lyrics there. Aug 2 at 8pm America. 52-79€. Aug 7 at 6:30pm Nofx. 37.50€. Aug 27 at 8:30pm The Bellamy Brothers. 39.50€. For tickets and reservations www.fnac.com. 80 blvd Rochechouart (18th), 01.44.92.78.03 M° Anvers w w w.wheretr aveler.c o m 69

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W H E R E PA R I S

FESTIVALS CHATEAU DE VERSAILLES Classical music and entertainment played a historical role at court at Versailles and each year exceptional concerts and performances are given in the stunning settings of the palace and its grounds. Through Sept 13 on Sat at 8:30pm Les Grandes Eaux Nocturnes, sound and light show in the gardens with Baroque music and fireworks by Groupe F. 24€. Through Sept 13 on Sat at 6:30pm, 6:50pm, 7:10pm, 7:30pm, 7:50pm La Sérénade Royale, Baroque music and ball performed by musicians and dancers from the Compagnie Baroque in the Hall of Mirrors. 17€. 39€ for combination ticket. For tickets and reservations visit www.chateauversailles-spectacles.fr. Avenue Rockefeller, Versailles 78000, 01.30.83.78.89. RER C to Versailles Rive Gauche

PARIS PLAGES Through Aug 20. The banks of the Seine in Paris are turned into an extensive beach for all to enjoy. Beach rugby, floating swimming pools, water sports, lounge chairs and

The gardens of Versailles leisure are all on the agenda. For additional

Spuller (3rd), open Jul 1-Aug 9, 1pm-7pm.

information visit www.paris-plages.fr.

01.44.94.98.00.

M° Châtelet

M° Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre

PARIS QUARTIER D’ETE

ROCK EN SEINE

Through Aug 15. This international summer

Aug 22-24. This rock festival, being held for the

festival is filled with song, music, art and dance

11th time, brings together both tried and true

by artists from all over the world. Events,

and new talents. This year’s line-up includes

performances and shows are held at a host of

the Arctic Monkeys, Selah Sue and Lana Del

prestigious venues throughout the city and

Rey. One-Day Pass 49€, Three-Day Pass 119€.

nearby suburbs. Some of the events are free.

www.rockenseine.com.

Information, programme and tickets at www.

Domaine National de Saint Cloud.

quartierdete.com.

M° Boulogne-Pont de Saint Cloud/

Ticket Stand located at 4 rue Eugène

Pont de Sèvres

VERSAILLES PHOTO © 2013 THINKSTOCK - CJ_ROMAS – ISTOCK

FESTIVAL CLASSIQUE AU VERT Concerts celebrating classical music, jazz and the arts in the Espace Delta of the scenic Parc Floral in the Bois de Vincennes. From Aug 2 through Sept 14 on Sat & Sun at 4pm. Entrance fee to park 5.50€, adults, 2.75 €, 7-25, free under 7. The concerts are free. For full programme www.classiqueauvert.fr. Parc Floral de Paris, Esplanade Saint-Louis, Bois de Vincennes (12th), 01.45.43.81.18. M° Chateau de Vincennes

Starting at €85 per person, the show & half bottle of champagne

BOOK NOW! 01 47 23 32 32 www.lecrazyhorseparis.com 12 avenue George V - 75008 Paris

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ADVERTORIAL

How to become Parisian in one hour? As tourists or expats in Paris there are some quirks we have all noticed among the Parisians, the way they march to their destinations, their constant pouting and the way they order at restaurants. Olivier Giraud, the very talented and handsome comedian, has too, noticed that the Parisians are unique in their behaviour, and has decided to bring all those idiosyncrasies to light. Born in Bordeaux, Olivier moved to Paris to study hotel management and after graduating he moved to the Unites States where he managed a restaurant of a

5-star hotel. After four years, and many soul-searching nights, he decided to return to France and follow his real dream of becoming a comedian. Having experienced the cultural differences between the Parisians and Americans while in Florida, and having observed for himself the tourists of all nationalities in Paris, he decided to not shy away from the hardhitting questions of how one becomes a real Parisian. How do you grab a waiter’s attention in a café? In the metro, what do you do if you see an older lady or a

pregnant woman? And how do you behave in a cab? Putting together a one man show, How to be Parisian in one hour?, the stand-up comic will leave you rolling in your seat from laughter and 100% prepared for any situation in the City of Light. Entirely performed in English, it is a great show for everyone, including Parisians who will no doubt get a good laugh at themselves.

Non-stop laughter from a real Parisian guaranteed to leave you wanting more.

EVERY Wednesday, Thursday, Friday & Saturday @ 8.30pm

100% IN ENGLISH Théâtre des Nouveautés 24 Blvd Poissonnière (9th) Metro: Grands Boulevards From 24€

It is not an easy feat to master the Parisian attitude but Olivier RESERVATION has put together a fail-proof RECOMMENDED guideline of French etiquette +33 (0)6 98 57 45 98 that will leave you embracing or the oh la la factor. www.oliviergiraud.com

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W H E R E PA R I S [ E N T E R TA I N M E N T ]

CLASSICAL

Eglise de la Madeleine

EGLISE DE LA MADELEINE Aug 30 at 8:30pm Selections from Vivaldi, Schubert, Rameau, with orchestra and soloists under the direction of André Rebacz. 20-30€. Tickets at the church the day of the concert or bookings at www.fnac.com or www.concertssveto.com. Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.64.83.16. M° Madeleine PARC DE BAGATELLE-L’ORANGERIE Chamber music from the Octuor de France performed in the Orangerie, by the rose garden. Aug 3 at 4:30pm a selection of Schubert and Blanc. 20€. Aug 10 & 15 at 4:30 a selection of Mozart and Schubert. For full programme visit www.octuordefrance.com. Parc de Bagatelle, Route de Sèvres à Neuilly, Bois de Boulogne (16th), 01.48.99.93.11. M° Pont de Neuilly, then bus no. 43 to Bagatelle. Tickets at FNAC: www.fnac.com. 08.92.68.36.22.

Duc des Lombards

JAZZ CLUBS CAVEAU DE LA HUCHETTE This club, in a vaulted cellar in the heart of the Latin Quarter, has been showcasing fine jazz music for the past six decades. lodge in the 18th century, the Knights Templar held meetings at this location in the Middle Ages. Shows change regularly, check website for details. Sun-Thurs entrance fee 13€, Fri-Sat and holiday eves 15€, drinks, 5-8€. www. caveaudelahuchette.fr. 5 rue de la Huchette (5th), 01.43.26.65.05. M° St-Michel DUC DES LOMBARDS

also served continuously. Aug 1-2 at 8pm &

world’s jazz greats for two decades: Art

One of Paris’ oldest jazz clubs

10pm Melissa Aldana & Crash Trio. 28€. Aug

Blakey, Dizzy Gillespie, Stan Getz... And it

magnificently renovated by Andrée

8-9 at 9pm Jon Boutellier Quartet. Price

was Chet Baker’s favourite stage in Paris,

Putman’s collaborator, the talented Elliot

unavailable. Aug 15 at 9pm Julie Erikssen.

and his last. Devoted jazz fans come here

Barnes. The decor is completely modern

Price unavailable. Aug 29-30 at 9pm

to listen to two hours of solid music and

but the inspiration comes from the past

Laurent Coulondre Trio. Price unavailable.

the crowd begins to accumulate around

as Elliot Barnes based his designs on the rarely played Duke Ellington song, Black Brown Beige. The Duc also boasts one of the best sound-systems in town and is now known as the House of Jazz.

For full programme and reservations go to www.ducdeslombards.com. 42 rue des Lombards (1st), 01.42.33.22.88. M° Châtelet

8 pm, so come early. Aug 1-2 at 9:30pm Roy Hargrove Quintet. 27€. Shows change nightly, check website for complete programme. www.newmorning.com.

Daily performances, live recordings and

NEW MORNING

7 & 9 rue des Petites-Ecuries (10th),

a healthy mix of jazz man jams make this

The legendary Parisian venue for jazz

01.45.23.51.41.

the address for Jazz. An all-natural menu is

both classic and eclectic has hosted the

M° Château d’Eau

DUC DES LOMBARDS © PHILIPPE MARCHIN; MADELEINE PHOTO © PARIS TOURIST OFFICE - MARC BERTRAND

The spot is rife with history, a Masonic

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© Bal du Moulin Rouge 2014 - Moulin Rouge® - 1-1028499

LA REVUE DU PLUS CÉLÈBRE CABARET DU MONDE ! DINER ET REVUE À 19H À PARTIR DE 185 € REVUE À 21H ET À 23H : 112 €

MONTMARTRE

82, BLD DE CLICHY - 75018 PARIS TEL : 33(0)1 53 09 82 82

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THE SHOW OF THE MOST FAMOUS CABARET IN THE WORLD !

DINNER & SHOW AT 7PM FROM €185 SHOW AT 9PM & 11PM : €112

WWW.MOULIN-ROUGE.COM FACEBOOK.COM/LEMOULINROUGEOFFICIEL

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W H E R E PA R I S [ E N T E R TA I N M E N T ]

BARS

The Ice Kube

LE BAR LONG This posh bar located in the Royal Monceau hotel was designed by Philippe Starck and is a perfect spot for a sophisticated cocktail or nightcap in a cosy setting. Patrons should be well dressed. www.leroyalmonceau.com. 37 ave Hoche (8th), 01.42.99.88.00. M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile LE BRISTOL BAR This discreet and elegant spot is ideal for enjoying cosy drinks. Popular with celebrities and politicians, a variety of original cocktails and a fine selection of champagnes and cognacs are among the offerings. The bar is located in the Bristol Hotel and is open until 1:30am. www.lebristolparis.com. 112 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. M° Miromesnil BUDDHA BAR This trend-setting cocktail bar and restaurant attracts both fashionistas and curious tourists, with a giant golden Buddha presiding over the scene and service that’s cooler-than-thou. 8 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th), 01.53.05.90.00. M° Concorde

LE DOKHAN’S CHAMPAGNE BAR A stunning hotel bar replete with Louis Vuitton elevator, artwork by Picasso and candlelight features a fine selection of rare champagnes. In the Radisson Blu Le Dokhan’s Hotel. 117 rue Lauriston (16th), 01.53.65.66.99. M° Victor Hugo EXPERIMENTAL COCKTAIL BAR A fun bar hidden in the heart of the 2nd arrondissement where you can enjoy delicious cocktails and cool music. 37 rue Saint Sauveur (2nd), 01.45.08.88.09. M° Sentier HARRY’S NEW YORK BAR This landmark establishment is a fine place to enjoy drinks at the roomy and friendly bar. The traditional cocktail spot also serves up live piano music starting at 10pm. www.harrysbar.fr. 5 rue Daunou (2nd), 01.42.61.71.14. M° Opéra HOTEL COSTES BAR This chic bar and lounge is an ideal and pricey Parisian spot for people watching. The décor is sumptuous as are the cocktails and the very fine champagne list. www.hotelcostes.com. 239 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.42.44.50.00. M° Tuileries THE ICE KUBE Chill out and sip 4 Grey Goose cocktails at the city’s first ice bar. The establishment provides you with toasty garments to keep you warm while you enjoy this icily magical setting. Reservations requested. 1-5 passage Ruelle (18th), 01.42.05.20.00. M° La Chapelle

PARK HYATT PARIS VENDOME BAR This bar serves a wide variety of refreshments including nine champagnes by the glass and 70 different whiskies and house cocktails like the Park Flower and the Purple Mojito. Nibble on tapas prepared by Jean-François Rouquette. Daily 2pm-2am. http://paris.vendome.hyatt.fr. 5 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.58.71.12.34. M° Opéra LE PERCHOIR This speakeasy is tucked away on a secluded side street in the bustling 11th arrondissement. The rooftop bar offers a stunning view of the city and a relaxed atmosphere for sipping cool cocktails surrounded by a hipster crowd. Daily from 4pm-1am. leperchoir.fr. 14 rue Crespin du Gast (11th), 01.48.06.18.48. M° Ménilmontant PRESCRIPTION COCKTAIL CLUB This trendy bar is excellent for delicious and original cocktails. The hot spot offers cool music, friendly staff and tequila. 23 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.45.08.88.09. M° Mabillon LA VUE A stunning view is to be had by all from the 33rd floor of the Hyatt Regency Paris Etoile hotel, perched on the western edge of Paris. Sit back into the stunning décor highlighted by designer Pier Luigi Copat’s majestic chandelier and sip your drink in a refined ambiance overlooking the city and its lights. 3 place du Général Koenig (17th), 01.40.68.12.34. M° Porte Maillot

ICE KUBE PHOTO © STEPHANE ADAM

THE BALLROOM This sophisticated cocktail bar, frequented by the beautiful people of the city, serves up carefully mixed drinks in cosy seated areas that make up the three separate rooms of the bar. The establishment is hidden behind an unmarked black door next to its restaurant, The Beef Club. 58 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1st), 09.54.37.13.65. M° Les Halles

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W H E R E PA R I S

NIGHTCLUBS LE BARON You can club until dawn at this celebrated and celebrity filled night spot. Its cabaret-like ambiance – there’s live music- attracts a trendy, elite crowd. Look your best to get past the door. 6 ave Marceau (8th), 01.47.20.04.01. M° Alma-Marceau LE MONTANA This nightclub in the heart of the Saint-Germaindes-Prés neighbourhood is one of the capital’s trendiest and most select spots. The bar is on the ground floor and the dance floor, downstairs, in the vaulted cellars. Popular with the fashion crowd and rock stars. 28 rue St Benoît (6th), 01.44.39.71.00. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés LE PARIS PARIS This trendy nightclub features live concerts and a refurbished large bar, the Shots Bar, for enjoying shots. The club also boasts a member’s only VIP lounge, La Chambre Rouge. Tues-Sat 11pm-6am. 5 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01.42.60.64.45. M° Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre

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Le Showcase VIP ROOM One of the most exclusive of the clubs currently on the Parisian nightlife scene. This chic haven for the rich and famous lets you dance the night away to hip hop and house music. 188 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.58.36.46.00. M° Palais Royal

LE SHOWCASE Located beneath the Alexandre III bridge, this is a unique venue and as its name implies is a showcase for musical talent providing a clubby atmosphere. Fri-Sat 10 pm-6 am. Pont Alexandre III, Port des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.61.25.43. M° Champs-Elysées Clémenceau

RASPOUTINE This mythical Parisian venue remains an authentic night spot to enjoy cocktails and champagne. The club’s décor, created by the celebrated Russian designer Erté, is listed on the inventory of historic monuments. 58 rue Bassano (8th) 01.47.20.02.90. M° George V

SOCIAL CLUB Trendy spot for enjoying excellent live music, tasty drinks and even a cigarette in the club’s smoking room. It is advisable to dress up rather than down. Wed 11pm-3am. Thurs-Sat 11pm-6am. For music programme visit www.parissocialclub.com. 142 rue Montmartre (2nd), 06.84.80.99.40. M° Bourse

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CABARET

Moulin Rouge

CRAZY HORSE

Dinner & show start at 7pm (185-215€);

A legendary cabaret synonymous

Show only starts at 9pm or 11pm for 112€

with beauty, elegance, sensuality and

(with half bottle of champagne).

sophistication. The current show, Désirs is

www.moulinrouge.fr

inspired by the endless theme of femininity.

82 blvd de Clichy (18th), 01.53.09.82.82.

Sun-Fri at 8:15 & 10:45 pm, Sat at 7:00, 9:30

M° Blanche

& 11:45 pm. The show and half bottle of MOULIN ROUGE PHOTO © MOULIN ROUGE

champagne or 2 drinks: starting at €125.

LIDO

www.lecrazyhorseparis.com

The current show, Bonheur, is a song-and-

12 ave George V (8th), 01.47.23.32.32.

dance spectacular with 70 artists, 23 sets and

M° Alma-Marceau

600 dazzling costumes.

MOULIN ROUGE This famous cabaret is home to the original

Daily. Dinner & show at 7pm (160-300€); Show only with half bottle of champagne at

cancan. The current show, Féerie, sparkles with

9pm (110€) & 11pm (100€). www.lido.fr

talented performers, including the 60 Doriss

116 bis ave des Champs-Elysées (8th),

girls, 1,000 costumes of feathers, rhinestones

01.40.76.56.10.

and sequins and spectacular staging.

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S KE TRAVEL BETWEEN CHARLES E RU DU C NT DE GAULLE AIRPORT PO LBIA Nationale TO CH Cour N IM lace EV D DE HE SO AL St-Émilion Italie AR RK IS AND E R ORLY AIRPORT CL DU EV ET UL O C B Air France buses Charles de IA T leave daily from R. JS CO LB .B A CH AR NY TO CH CIN MY OS Gaulle for Orly DU .G R É5:55am to 10:30pm PLACE(Roissy) from R M . R NN DO JEANNE D'ARC R . UT AV MA EN CA R . XA IN T RA I L L E S Sto Charles UE RI fromDEOrly Airport Bibliothèque PLACEAirport/departures MA R. O Mitterrand HO E T T NATIONALE D L O R. R. CH ÂTE F. D de R. A U Gaulle AirportEfrom 6:30am to 10:30pm. ED RU ISO N TT (Onboard: 20€ one way, 34€ round trip/Online: Parc de WA Choisy AC ÏF T O L BI RU BA AN E 18€ one way, 30.50€ round trip). Frequency: UE . DE E AGN R D C A E M . A J N TA DR. GR R. RUE EL A every 30 minutes. Journey takes 45 to 60 EN IN É OUD SS MA minutes. Also RERRUEBE.from Charles de Gaulle to RET . PER R. A AV EN the Antony station then the OrlyVal service UE LT NAU REG ULE to Orly Sud. OrlyVal metros leave daily from VIST D' IV E LA ON RY R. D RD RUE A X V U A 6am-11pm from Antony and Orly Sud. Travel E AI L L L U R UE C U UX E TRO BO B O Uairports is about 1 hour time between theAVEtwo NUE A and 10 E N minutes. www.aeroportsdeparis.fr S S P AV PIN

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W h e r e pa r i s [ n a v i g at e ] Paris is crossed by 14 Métro lines and five RER (express suburban) lines, all numbered and named for their final destination (terminus). Did you know that there are 300 stations that make up Paris’ metro system?

Each Métro trip requires one ticket regardless of how many transfers you make, though you must buy an extra ticket for the RER outside the city limits. Keep your ticket until you exit.

Tickets are sold in all stations and in cafés (tabacs) with a ticket sign outside, single (1.70€/2€ if purchased on a bus) or by 10 (un carnet - 13.70€). This map includes the new tramway line.

80 W H E R E Pa r i s i aU G U s T 2014

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“Paris Visite” passes offer unlimited travel on the Métro and buses (1day 10.85€, 2-day 17.65€, 3-day 24.10€, 5-day 34.70€). The Métro and RER start running at 5:30am, and stop around 1 am.

While the Métro is an extremely safe way to travel, watch out for pickpockets in crowded trains and stations. For information in English, call the transportation company (RATP) directly at 08.92.68.41.14.

• 44,000 square meters dedicated to luxury, fashion and beauty • A building classified historic monument • High-end services to enjoy a unique shopping experience • A panoramic terrace offering the most stunning view of Paris

• A unique shopping experience in the most beautiful museum in the world • The only luxury department store open 7 days a week, even on Sunday • The best selection of iconic gifts for Accessories & Beauty

Haussmann. ��, boulevard Haussmann. ����� Paris — Tél : + ��(�)� �� �� �� �� www.printemps.com Louvre. ��, rue de Rivoli. ����� Paris Tél : + ��(�)� �� �� �� �� www.printemps.com

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[THE VIEW FROM HERE]

My Paris

The Saint James Albany Hotel terrace

For our readers who are looking for a traditional Parisian bistro serving authentic French fare, where would you book them a table? Le Mesturet where chef Pascal Brot offers a traditional cuisine served in a relaxing ambiance. Paris is well-known for its magnificent monuments, from where would you suggest our readers get the best view of the city? From the foot of the Sacré Cœur basilica. You should go there when the weather is clear and not too sunny to have a panoramic view of the city without the light reflecting from the rooftops, distorting your view.

What have you recently discovered in Paris that you would advise guests to see? Mori Venice Bar, in the Bourse neighbourhood. An upmarket Italian restaurant designed by Philippe Starck. The Jardin du Luxembourg

Patrice

DELAMARRE Head Concierge Saint James Albany Hotel

Where recently sat with the Head Concierge to pick his brain on where and what our readers should go and see while visiting the French capital

Where is one of the areas in Paris that is ideal for a leisurely stroll? Jardin du Luxembourg and its nearby streets rue de Médicis and rue Gay Lussac.

As the fashion capital, which areas do you think showcase the best fashions? The Left Bank in the triangle formed by the boulevard Saint-Germain, boulevard Raspail, rue de Sèvres and rue de Four. The Sacré Coeur

Les Ombres restaurant

MY PERFECT DAY 9 am Visit the Musée d’Orsay 12 pm Lunch at Bistrot de Paris on rue de Lille 3 pm Go for a walk around Musée Rodin 9 pm Dinner at Les Ombres, the Musée du Quai Branly’s restaurant

where

®

Your Guide to the World

JARDIN DU LUXEMBOURG PHOTO © PARIS TOURIST OFFICE - DAVID LEFRANC; LES OMBRES PHOTO © PIERRE MONETTA; SACRE COEUR PHOTO © PARIS TOURIST OFFICE - JACQUES LEBAR

If one of our readers is only in Paris for 24 hours what one thing would you recommend they do? Have breakfast on the hotel’s terrace before a tour at the Louvre as soon as it opens to avoid the crowd. Then discover Paris with an Open Tour bus ride, stopping by Bercy to visit Bercy Village, moving back up to the Bastille area before taking a cab to Canal Saint Martin before strolling to Montmartre to enjoy dinner at Le Coq Rico.

For a couple in love where would you recommend they go for a romantic dinner? The Belle Otéro, La Pérouse’s private dining room, which boasts a view of the Seine. Entering the restaurant you are instantly transported to the literary Paris of the 19th century.

82 W H E R E PA R I S I AU G U S T 2014

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06/14

© La Vallée Village 2014

10 am – 8.30 pm in August

La Vallée Village is the ultimate luxury shopping destination with minimum reductions of 33% , special offers with extra savings and tax-free shopping seven days a week, and only 35 minutes from Paris. Discover more than 110 boutiques, including: *

CARVEN

DIANE VON FURSTENBERG

LONGCHAMP SONIA RYKIEL

PAUL & JOE TOD’S

JIMMY CHOO

PAUL SMITH

THE KOOPLES

UGG

POIRAY

KENZO

L.K.BENNETT

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

VANESSA BRUNO

AND MANY MORE

LIKE SHOPPING. BUT BETTER. †

Receive a 10% saving on any purchase in three of your favourite boutiques (upon presentation of your Shopping Express® ticket at the Welcome Center) when travelling from Paris (ParisCityVision agency / Metro Pyramides) with the Shopping Express® (35 minutes). Book online at LaValleeVillage.com/shoppingexpress or call the ParisCityVision agency on +33 (0)1 44 55 60 00.

LaValleeVillage.com LONDON

DUBLIN

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MADRID

BARCELONA

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BRUSSELS

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MUNICH

SUZHOU, CHINA

SHANGHAI, CHINA Opening autumn 2015

WP VALLEE VILLAGE.indd 1

* and often more off the recommended retail price of previous seasons’ collections. Non-EU residents are entitled to a tax refund of at least 12% on purchases of more than €175 per boutique.

08/07/2014 09:57


WP PRINTEMPS.indd 1

08/07/2014 10:01


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