Where Paris - October 2014 by Where Paris

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PA R IS M O N T H LY C I T YGU I DE 速

DALI

Paris and the Arts

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CULTURE

ART

DINING

ENTERTAINMENT

MAPS 12/09/2014 07:47

Maisons de Vente 348 Rue Saint HonorĂŠ - 75001 Paris 112 Mount St - W1K 2TU London www.moynat.com

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Sac Réjane

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PERSONALISE YOUR PARIS AT WHERETRAVELER.COM

CONTENTS

18 SHOPPING

The city’s latest boutique openings, trends and address book for everything fashion related 48 ARTS & ATTRACTIONS

This month’s round-up of exhibits and attractions 58 DINING

Our selection of restaurants for every mood and every taste

76 ENTERTAINMENT

This month’s hottest bars, clubs and events 86 NAVIGATE

Your guide to getting around the city with maps and transport listings OC T OBE R 2 0 14 Issue N o 249

PA R IS M O N T H LY C I T YGU I DE ®

DALI

Paris and the Arts

FASHION

CULTURE

ART

DINING

ENTERTAINMENT

MAPS

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ON THE COVER

08 Hot Dates This month’s calendar of must-see events

10 Cognac, Careful and Complex Take a tour of the famous cognac houses in the country

Turn to page 48 to discover the latest exhibition being held at the Espace Dali. Cover Photo © Espace Dali – Arnaud Rabier Nowart - Dali fait le mur. Photographie : Robert Descharnes © Descharnes & Descharnes sarl 2014

14 Discovering the Brilliant Young Chefs of Paris We introduce you to the young talent in the French capital’s kitchens

90 My Paris Head Concierge Thierry Revel shares his favourite things about the city of Paris

CONNECT WITH US ONLINE

Facebook.com/whereparismagazine Twitter.com/whereparis

THE HISTORIC MARTELL RESIDENCE IN COGNAC, THE CHÂTEAU CHANTELOUP PHOTO © ELIAS; MATTA. COMPOSITION, CIRCA 1970 PHOTO COURTESY GALERIE DES MODERNES; PHARRELL WILLIAMS PHOTO © KEVIN WINTER

[THE GUIDE]

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the team | where PariS

35 rue des Mathurins 75008 Paris, France Tel: +33 (0)1 43 12 56 56 Fax: +33 (0)1 43 12 56 57

WHERE PARIS PROJECT IS ENDORSED BY

PUBLISHER and GEnERaL manaGER

Pascal Tranchant Tel: +33 (0)1 43 12 56 42

Sandra Iskander [Editor]

Paris and the arts This month in the French capital the arts take centre stage with fabulous events taking place all around the city. Three ephemeral pavilions are setting up home for the annual autumn art fair, art Elysées, while the 41st FiaC (international Contemporary art Fair) is bringing together over 190 galleries from all over the world under the magnificent glass cupola of the Grand Palais. Meanwhile, exciting new exhibits are being held in galleries around the city including the wonderfully colourful Dalí Fait Le Mur at the Espace Dalí. Make sure you turn to our arts & attractions section for all the information you need on discovering the must-see cultural events taking place this month.

EdITOR Sandra Iskander* GROUP aRT dIRECTOR Tim Benton SEnIOR dESIGnER Lee Henry PROdUCTIOn manaGER/LOndOn Melanie Needham SEnIOR PROdUCTIOn aSSISTanT Jennifer Bourne PROdUCTIOn aSSISTanT David Weeks COnTRIBUTInG WRITERS Alexander Lobrano, Patricia Valicenti* dESIGnER and PROdUCTIOn manaGER Céline Février* GRaPHIC dESIGn manaGER Laura Zaharia* SaLES dIRECTOR Jean-Louis Roux-Fouillet

jeanlouis.rouxfouillet@wheremagazine.com advERTISInG - SEnIOR aCCOUnT manaGERS Corinne Durant*, Jana Herrmann* advERTISInG - aCCOUnT manaGER Delphine Ivanchenko* dISTRIBUTIOn and HOTEL SERvICES manaGER Suzanne Tang* SaLES & maRKETInG aSSISTanT Jennifer Groult* OFFICE manaGER Emmanuelle Marquet* *E-maIL FOR aLL OF THE aBOvE FIRSTnamE.LaSTnamE@WHEREmaGazInE.COm

MOrriS ViSiTOr PUBLiCaTiONS

MVP i EUROPE manaGInG dIRECTOR EUROPE Chris Manning

MVP i EXECUTiVE PRESIdEnT Donna W. Kessler

MVP i CREATiVE

in this issue we also introduce foodies to the fabulous young talent found in the culinary capital. Everyone loves to eat when in Paris and this month we bring you our favourite tables headed by the future’s next top chefs. We also take you on a tour of Cognac, the region where the world’s most famous cognac houses are found. any trip to the fashion capital is incomplete without a day or two spent shopping. Turn to our shopping section for all the latest trends hitting the runways and make sure you check out the best beauty buys to complete your autumnal look before choosing a spa from page 44 to help you wind down and relax. The city is also hosting great concerts this month and in our Entertainment section you will find where our favourite artists will be performing as well as the coolest new bars to enjoy a delicious cocktail.

CHIEF CREaTIvE OFFICER Haines Wilkerson dESIGn dIRECTOR Jane Frey CREaTIvE COORdInaTOR Beverly Mandelblatt

MOrriS COMMUNiCaTiONS CHaIRman & CEO William S. Morris III PRESIdEnT William S. Morris IV

Plan ahead for your next visit to Paris, subscribe to Where® Magazine : annual 12 issues €80 (France), €96 Europe, €132 (outside Europe). Contact : Emmanuelle Marquet Tel : +33 (0)1 43 12 56 41 E-mail : emmanuelle.marquet@wheremagazine.com Edité par Where Paris sNC. société en nom collectif constituée le 26 mai 1993 au capital de €1.725.795. Durée 99 ans. 391 247 251 rCs Paris. représentant légal: Chris Manning. Tirage: 54,080 (OJD 2013). N° de issN: 1241-8625. Dépôt légal: octobre 2014. reproduction interdite sauf accord préalable. Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. all rights reserved. reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. Where® is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications.

where PariS supports:

We hope you enjoy your stay in the City of Light. Published by the Visitor Publications division of Morris Communications Company, LLC 725 Broad St., Augusta, GA 30901

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FALL 2014

Rhyder 33 in gunmetal

Coach proudly supports the High Line. coach.com

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HOT DATES OCTOBER

TUESDAY

A BB BIRTHDAY Celebrating Brigitte Bardot’s recent 80th birthday, the Galerie de l’Europe is exhibiting for the first time intimate photos of the French icon taken by photographer Sveeva Vigeveno between 1967 and the early 70s during holidays they took together. The black and white photos give you a glimpse into BB’s private life. 55 rue de Seine (6th), 01 55 42 94 23

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SATURDAY

SATURDAY-SUNDAY

4-5

LA NUIT BLANCHE

A LEGENDARY HORSE RACE

BB ET SVEEVA À PARIS PHOTO © S. VIGEVENO; LIGHT PAINTING PHOTO © HANS KOTTER; HORSE RACE PHOTO © SCOOPDYGA; BONBON SCULPTURE PHOTO © LAURENCE JENKELL

Don’t miss the chance to enjoy the one night in the French capital when free entertainment is organised throughout the city from dusk till dawn, giving you a reason to stay up all night to enjoy the City of Light. This year’s event has Chloé Moglia, a dancer and trapeze artist, on the agenda, who will be performing in the open space of six areas around the city. Don’t forget to visit www.facebook.com/ NBParis, La Nuit Blanche’s official facebook page for up-to-date information.

The world’s best thoroughbreds will be competing this weekend for the Qatar Prix de l’Arc de Triomphe at the Longchamp racecourse. Visit www.prixarcdetriomphe.com to book your tickets to this adrenalin-filled international event.

MONDAY

TUESDAY-WEDNESDAY

7-8

A NEW ART FAIR

In a former hot air balloon factory you will find La Biennale Next Step (BNS). For it’s first edition, the BNS art fair is bringing to the public emerging international artists, with the theme this year focusing on La Femme (The Woman). Free admission. 25 rue Yves Toudic (10th)

FRIDAY

DRINKS AND BONBONS

Under the luminous glass dome of the InterContinental Hotel’s La Verrière restaurant, enjoy an afternoon drink and take in the impressive large Bonbons sculptures by Laurence Jenkell. The hotel is hosting the exhibition through to the 24th of November and the 15 sculptures are peppered colourfully around the hotel lobby and La Verrière. 2 rue Scribe (9th), 01 40 07 32 32

SATURDAY

LIGHT PAINTINGS

Galerie NMariño is showcasing the works of young artist Hans Kotter. The German artist who describes his work as “paintings with light” plays with fluorescent colours to highlight his installations and play with visual perception. 8 rue des Coutures Saint-Gervais (3rd), 01 48 87 49 75

FASHION TIME OUT Nestle into a chair, sip on tea and watch the latest Marjolaine Chen collection parade around you as part of Le Bristol Hotel’s Samedis de la Mode (Saturdays of Fashion). Book your fashionable teatime table at 01 53 43 43 42. Le Bristol Hotel, 112 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th)

THURSDAY

23-27 ART ELYSÉES

Starting today, for five days, the city turns into an arts hub with the art fair, Art Elysées, bringing together art dealers and collectors to discover the best of modern and contemporary art. Turn to page 50 for more information. w w w.wh eretr aveler.c o m 9

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COGNAC

Careful and Complex B Y PAT R I C I A V A L I C E N T I

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he good earth of France has managed to work its gastronomic magic on just about everything, and cognac, the unique brandy distilled in the region in and around Cognac some 450 kilometres southwest of Paris, is no exception. It was in the 17th century that Cognac began producing the world-class brandy it is known for today. The spirits of the region, perhaps because of the proximity to the sea, or perhaps because of the effects of lime in the soil on the grapes, enjoyed a unique quality and taste, one that was found nowhere else. The region exported table wine to England and Holland but the wine didn’t travel particularly well and the wine growers started distilling the wine into eau de vie, literally the water of life. The first casks left for the United States in the 18th century and today the world famous brandy known as cognac is shipped to 160 countries around the world. Cognac received its AOC, the French Appellation of Controlled Origin in 1936, meaning that its quality is controlled by strict and permanent controls, and so it can only be distilled from grapes grown mainly in the Charente and Charente-Maritime regions as well as a few towns in the Dordogne and the Deux-Sèvres. There are six geographical divisions within these regions and six corresponding grades of cognac ranging from the Grande Champagne, Petite Champagne, Borderies, Fins Bois, Bons Bois and Bois Ordinaires. Only the first two grades, regarded as the best, go into the making of Grande Fine Champagne and this is traditionally ordered up as a “fine” in a café. Cognac is distilled from white wine of the Ugni Blanc grape variety with to a much lesser extent the Colombard and Folle Blanche varieties. The distillation takes place once the fermentation of the wine is finished at the end of the year. It is important to note that cognac undergoes a double distillation and the copper pot stills, known as Charente stills, operate day and night in the distillation season, which comes to a close on March 31st, depending upon the harvest. The distiller who has ways of intervening in the process to confer upon the liquid a special touch surveys the distillation process constantly. Once the cognac-to-be has been double distilled it is placed into oak casks, which enhance its colour and flavour. While it ages it loses some of its alcoholic strength. Cognac is a blend and therein is found one of its secrets. Several months before bottling, the individual firm’s tasters and cellar masters choose the brandies to be blended together,

Louis XIII cognac and ageing barrel at Rémy Martin (main image); A bottle of Baron Otard VSOP Cognac (above) though that is only part of the cellar master’s work whose craft is akin to that of a goldsmith. The cellar master will regularly check on the aging process, deciding to transfer the eaux to oak vats or to add distilled water to reduce the alcohol content. Once he (or in the rare case she), decides to end the ageing process, the eaux de vie are transferred to demijohns known in French as Dames- Jeannes in which they can live on for decades without alteration. It is the cellar master who will blend meticulously chosen eaux de vie to make a specific cognac. Cognac has placed the town of Cognac firmly on the map of the world. Beyond the beverage, Cognac is a charming provincial town with in its centre a statue of one of France’s great monarch’s, Francis I, for he was born in the Château de Cognac in 1494, when the region’s grapes went into wine making. The town is peaceful, marked with a unique fragrance, the fragrance of cognac evaporating into the air, for behind the walls, wooden or otherwise, a liquid is being cradled in casks of oaks, liquid that will become cognac. It is said that the equivalent of over 20 million bottles of cognac a year evaporate into the air, the celebrated angel’s share, the evaporation essential to reducing the level of alcohol in the eau de vie. World famous names emerge on the cognac landscape in and around Cognac and the

neighbouring towns and countryside, among them Martell, Hennessy, Otard, Rémy Martin but there are, too, a good number of small, highly respected houses producing world class cognac as well. Entering a house is a journey into another world, a burnished world, surrounded by casks of ages. A wending walk through the ageing store houses of Martell is like a journey back in time, the oldest of the big houses, Martell will be 300 years old next year. Founded in 1715 by Charles Martell, a young merchant from the isle of Jersey who started a small, thriving business on the scenic banks of the Charente River, his humble house has grown into one of the great names of cognac. Martell was already shipping cognac by barrel to the United States in the late 18th century. Martell only distils clear wines, making for refined, delicate cognacs. Meanwhile, over at what was the Martell family’s historic residence, the Château de Chanteloup, the house’s Heritage Director Jacques Menier shares a unique view with guests, a lovely view of the countryside of Cognac. Some of the house’s most precious eaux-de-vie are held in ageing rooms adjacent to the chateau. Baron Jean-Baptiste Otard spent some of the turbulent years of the French Revolution in exile in London. Upon his return, he returned to the Cognac region where he was born and

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began producing cognac in 1795 from the stock of eaux de vie his family had built up since 1760. Baron Otard would purchase the imposing royal Château de Cognac (where Francis i was born) after the French revolution and which today still houses the house and its operations. The Baron, who would go on to be mayor of Cognac from 1804 to 1824, acquired the castle for he recognised its unique properties for ageing cognac, notably the spacious thick-walled lower vaults of the castle on the banks of the Charente river providing a constant temperature and humidity. Today his cognac lives on as Baron Otard Cognac with the round, supple characteristic smoothness imparted upon it by the unique ageing conditions. richard Hennessy, an irish officer in the service of the king of France, founded the venerable house of the same name in 1765. Nearly 250 years later, Cyrille Gautier-auriol, ambassador of the House of Hennessy, accompanied guests across the Charente river on board the Hennessy boat to enter into the venerable

ageing store houses of Hennessy’s mythical eaux de vies, a library full of eaux de vie. For some 250,000 casks rest here, making for the largest reserve of eau de vie destined for cognac in the world. His keys opened up the secret rooms in which casks of eau de vie are awaiting to be blended into cognacs by Yann Fillioux, the seventh generation of the house’s cellar masters, for the family has for the past 200 years been devoted to the blending of Hennessy’s cognacs. “a cellar master has to know what’s in the library and what’s in the vineyards,” explained Mr. Gautier-auriol. returning back to the house’s headquarters looming over the Charente river, Olivier Paultes, the house’s Director of Distilleries and Communication of savoir-Faire of Eaux de Vie initiated two visitors into the difficult art of blending different eaux de vies into cognac. it basically comes down to the nose and a knack but in Cognac cellar masters through the generations often come from the same family evoking a certain know-how and well-trained gift

for getting it right. Meanwhile, the house of Frapin is something of an exception for it produces all of the wines that go into the making of its cognacs. “The wine comes exclusively from our vineyards, and for me that is vital, you need a good wine to begin with”, explained Patrice Piveteau, the Deputy Managing Director and Cellar Master of the house. Frapin’s vineyard is located in the heart of the Grande Champagne geographical division of the crus of cognac, which is regarded as the finest cru. Once the grapes have been harvested and the wine fermented, the eaux de vies are aged in the Frapin’s vast property of the Domaine Château de Fontpinot. The house produces complex cognacs, and highly aromatic ones, as well with the lustrous colour of burnished mahogany. The house of Frapin’s Domaine Château de Fontpinot has received the prestigious Living Heritage Label, a mark of recognition of the French state to compensate firms for the excellence of their skills.

The hisToric MarTell residence in cognac, The châTeau chanTeloup phoTo © elias; an ageing sTorerooM aT hennessy phoTo © Todd selby

Clockwise (from top left): Placing a label on a Delamain cognac bottle; An ageing storeroom at Hennessy; The Château Chanteloup, the historic Martell residence in Cognac; A bottle of Louis XIII cognac by Rémy Martin

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Over in the town of Jarnac, the house of Delamain plays out its unique approach to cognac, for this is a house devoted solely to the maturing and blending of the splendid eaux de vie that it rigorously selects into fine cognacs, cognacs of personality. The house of Roullet and Delamain was founded in 1824 and remained in business under that name for four generations until the Delamain family was left as its sole owner back in 1920 when the firm’s name was changed to Delamain & Co. Through this long family tradition, the Delamains have retained a long-lasting relationship with the grower distillers of the region enabling the firm to obtain brandies from the finest sources for example in the choice Grande Champagne division. Delamain’s small, surprisingly unassuming offices are tucked away on a narrow secluded street in Jarnac while surrounding it are the rooms housing liquid treasure. The firm’s directors have always personally supervised the key stages in the house’s cognac making: purchasing the brandies, maturing, blending

and proof reduction. Today Patrick Peyrelongue and Charles Braastad whose grandmothers were Delamains run the firm. “Our profession is to select, the Delamain style is known throughout the world, it is extremely pure, light, honest”, explained Dominique Touteau, the house’s cellar master. The house of Rémy Martin is celebrating its 290th birthday this year and the year was marked by a change in cellar masters as Pierrette Trichet, the first woman to hold the position in a major house, handed over the reigns of the casks to Baptiste Loiseau. The house elaborates its elixirs from the grapes that come from the Grande Champagne and Petite Champagne vineyards and the house’s emblem, a centaur, a symbol chosen by Paul Emile Rémy Martin in 1870, is known throughout the world. It was also Paul Emile who created the famous Louis XIII cognac, regarded as the king of cognacs, produced by the house. The house of Rémy Martin has also received the prestigious Living Heritage Label.

For a CognaC experienCe in paris The Baudelaire Bar aT The Burgundy hoTel 6-8 rue Duphot (1st), 01 42 60 34 12 The 123 SéBaSTopol hoTel Bar 123 blvd Sébastopol (2nd), 01 40 39 61 23 The bar is hosting the Cognac Cocktail Connexion event on October 23rd from 7pm-11pm where the barman will be mixing classic and original cognac cocktails. lMdW Fine SpiriTS BouTique 6 Carrefour de l’Odéon (6th), 01 46 34 70 20 lavinia BouTique 3-5 blvd de la Madeleine (1st), 01 42 97 20 20

For visiting Cognac, the region and the cognac-producing houses contact the Cognac Tourist office by visiting www.tourism-cognac.com or call 05 45 82 10 71 or contact les etapes du Cognac on 05 45 36 47 35 or www.cognacetapes.com w w w.wheretr aveler.c o m 13

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Discovering the Brilliant Young Chefs of Paris BY ALEXANDER LOBRANO

Cyril lignaC portrait © arthur_Delloye

f any given day, thousands of people are to be found packed inside of tiny airborne aluminium tubes tracing the world’s skies on their way to Paris. The main reason many will have chosen the French capital as a destination is because of its mouth-watering reputation for dazzlingly good food, a delicious honorific it has enjoyed for centuries. But does Paris still warrant these laurels today? Mais, oui! Or you bet it does! The good news for visitors to Paris is that the city’s storied gastronomic scene is just as spectacular in 2014 as it’s ever been. This is due to a remarkably talented generation of young chefs who have opened an evergrowing constellation of new restaurants that showcases the new style of French cooking in the 21st century—think food that’s creative, cosmopolitan, witty, pretty, fresh, and healthy. If you happen to peak behind the kitchen doors of some of the best new restaurants in Paris, however, you’ll be in for a surprise. The stereotypical Parisian chef—big-bellied, shorttempered, moustachioed, and perhaps slightly haughty—has been replaced by brilliant young cooks who are not only talented and comely but might even be American, Australian, Mexican, or most often of all, Japanese. One of the most important changes in Parisian restaurant kitchens at the beginning of the 21st century, you see, has been the internationalisation of the talent pool. More than New York, London, Sydney or San Francisco, it’s Paris that the most ambitious and adventurous young chefs around the world set their sights on these days. Why? “Paris is the big-time”, says New Orleans-born, Boston-bred chef Braden Perkins, who opened his restaurant Verjus with his partner Laura Adrian in a duplex space next to the Palais Royal in the heart of Paris two years ago. “I really wanted to have the

experience of cooking for a Parisian clientele— they’re so knowledgeable and demanding—and working with French produce”, Perkins says by way of explaining why the couple upped stakes in Seattle and moved to France despite the fact that it has such a challenging business climate. It hasn’t been easy, bien sûr, but if the first response to Perkins’ modern American bistro cooking in the French press was wane to wary, his restaurant has become a solid success and sort of an insider’s address even among Parisians who love good food (Fascinated by the audacity of Perkins and Adrian, the English-speaking world’s press has covered them admiringly from day one, which is why half of the dining room will be English-speaking at any given service). Perkins’ menus change all the time depending on the seasons and his inspiration, but his style is consistently incisive and shrewdly off-centre,

as in dishes like citrus cured trout with pistachio butter, heirloom beets, beet greens, sorrel oil, crème fraîche or skillet cooked duck breast, garnished with smoked celery root, orange, red cabbage sauerkraut and caraway seeds. A growing number of women are now to be found as head chefs in the most successful recent Paris restaurants, too. Mexican-born Beatriz Gomez trained at the elegant La Grande Cascade restaurant in the Bois de Boulogne park on the western edge of Paris before going out on her own with her French husband Mathieu Marcant to open the excellent and very successful modern French bistro Neva Cuisine in a quiet and rather forgotten part of Paris behind the Gare Saint Lazare. Gomez’s delicate and delicious cooking immediately made this table impossibly popular, but another way of sampling Gomez’s style is to head for her second restaurant, Coretta, an edgy duplex bistro overlooking an adjacent park named for the American civil rights leader Martin Luther King (Coretta was the name of his late wife). Dishes typical of Gomez’s cooking at Neva Cuisine include fresh pea soup with coddled egg and crumbled bacon and monkfish with girolles mushrooms in citrus cream with tarragon. Pastry chef Yannick Tranchant’s lemon meringue tarts and other sweet temptations are superb, too. Executed by Jean-François Pantaleon, formerly of L’Affable in the 7th arrondissement, the menu at Coretta is similarly suave and market-driven, including such dishes as foie gras with pomelo relish and pan-roasted duck breast with shallots and pears. In the mostly residential 11th arrondissement, a part of the city where visitors rarely venture, Le Servan, a café that’s recently been renovated into a bistro is the home turf of one of the city’s hottest recent openings, a superb modern French table where the kitchen is variously

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Restaurant David Toutain (top photo); Colourful dishes at Verjus (bottom photos)

impressive inventive chef is the very talented Jean- François Piège, and since his casually elegant and beautifully designed eponymous restaurant opened in 2010, it’s become sort of a closely guarded secret among Parisians as one of their favourite places for a really special meal without paying the astronomical prices found at most haute-cuisine restaurants. Piège works in a windowed kitchen at the back of the low-lit supper-club-like dining room, and his evolving menus include such exquisitely conceived and cooked dishes as a composition of soft brioche in a shallow pool of tomato water with oregano, slivered Kalamata olives, and burrata, over which the waiter shaves some frozen anchoïade, a classic Provençal sauce of anchovies and garlic, and a magnificent royale (flan) of chicken livers with crayfish under a foam of chicken livers, made according to an 1892 recipe by French chef Lucien Tendret. after you’ve discovered food this stunningly elegant and original, you’ll never wonder why the skies over Paris are so busy with air traffic ever again.

ADDRESSES Verjus 52 rue de Richelieu (1st), 01 42 97 54 40 Dinner only. NeVa CuisiNe 2 rue de Berne (8th) 01 45 22 18 91 Coretta 151 rue Cardinet (17th) 01 42 26 55 55 Le serVaN 32 rue Saint Maur (11th) 01 55 28 51 82 ChardeNoux 1 rue Jules Vallès (11th) 01 43 71 49 52. restauraNt daVid toutaiN 29 rue Surcouf (7th) 01 45 50 11 10 restauraNt jeaN-FraNçois Piège 79 rue Saint-Dominique (7th) 01 47 05 79 79

RestauRant DaviD toutain photo © thaï toutain; veRjus photos © Diane yoon

inspired by the Philippines, French and russian ancestry of the two sisters who run the place. Don’t miss Tatiana Levha’s succulent steamed cockles in peppery Filipino fish-sauce and radishes with herbed herring butter to start, and then dishes to share like cuttlefish salad with celery, roasted peanuts, and pomelo and roasted quail in an adobo sauce. Like almost every country today, France has its share of chefs who’ve become renowned because of food television. Cyril Lignac is among them, and this very successful and impressively disciplined young chef has created a culinary footprint in the capital that runs from his stylish contemporary restaurant Le Quinzième to a pair of bistros in saint-Germain-des-Prés and the 11th arrondissement, Chardenoux-des-Prés and Chardenoux, respectively. among these tables, the one i find most interesting is Chardenoux, because Lignac has used such a deft hand in creating a subtly modern menu for one of the most beautiful and best loved bistros in Paris, a land-marked place with wedding cake mouldings and a big zinc bar. The three-course 39-euro menu is good value for the money, and is complemented by a daily chalkboard menu that features seasonal dishes. Highlights of a recent dinner here included a starter of coddled egg with girolles mushrooms, tiny fava beans and freshly made croutons and foie gras with a superb rhubarb-ginger chutney, beautifully prepared main courses of veal sweetbreads with curcuma-seasoned carrot puree and miso-glazed cod with baby peas and chopped ham, and one of the best baba au rhum in Paris for dessert. This very good restaurant is open daily for lunch and dinner. The most impressive recent opening in Paris, however, is restaurant David Toutain, which is the new table in the 7th arrondissement by young chef David Toutain. Toutain, whom many local gastronomes consider to be the most promising young chef in the French capital, trained in an impressive suite of some of the world’s best restaurants, including Bernard Loiseau, Marc Veyrat, arpège (alain Passard), Mugaritz (andoni Luis aduriz) and Corton in New York City, and his delicate and deeply imagined cooking stuns with a brilliantly lucid originality. a deep love of vegetables is a signature of Toutain’s menu, which changes often according to the seasons and the chef’s inspiration, and the chef also likes to vary the gastronomic rhythm of a meal, so a quiet dish or two like cuttlefish with yuba (bean-curd sheet) and translucent Parmesan gnocchi is followed by an earthy and deeply satisfying one like seared foie gas in baked potato bouillon with black truffles. and among the young Turks in Paris, both male and female, perhaps the most consistently and 16 W H E R E Pa r i s i O C TO B E r 2014

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The o dys s e y sTarTs here

Visit to the heart of Cognac - Quai Hennessy - Cognac Information & Reservation + 33 (0)5 45 35 72 68 w w w. h e n n e s s y. c o m

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W H E R E PA R I S

THE GUIDE SHOPPING

VIXEN BY VERSACE Atelier Versace’s Autumn/Winter 2014/2015 collection sees the return of the Versace vixen. With Donatella Versace wanting to bring to the forefront of the collection the idea of construction and deconstruction, the pieces represent the modern side of couture. Asymmetrical body-hugging corsets with leather buckle detailing and long, flowing silk dresses with dramatic thigh-high slits make up this sexy collection, bringing out a woman’s inner vixen to chic couture. Versace Boutique 45 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 47 42 88 02

PHOTO © ATELIER VERSACE

BY SA N D R A ISK A N D ER

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Golden steps Luxury shoe brand Walter Steiger and couture house Rabih Kayrouz have collaborated once again for the third consecutive season to bring fashionista feet everywhere in the world the perfect pair of shoes to walk them through the winter months. The Walter Steiger for Maison Rabih Kayrouz ankle boot is the golden ticket this season in completing your winter wardrobe with the snakeskin print gold leather boot complementing both casual and chic and day and evening looks, leaving you with no need for any other footwear for this season. Available at the Walter Steiger boutique 83 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 42 66 65 08

VSP Chalayan Inaugurated last month during Paris Fashion Week, VSP’s flagship boutique not only marked the luxury brand’s first Parisian flagship store but also celebrated the launch of the house’s collaboration with fashion designer Hussein Chalayan. The VSP Chalayan Spring/Summer 2015 capsule collection was launched at the official inauguration and features a series of twenty pieces that reinterpret VSP’s signature leather designs. The pieces bring together architectural lines and flowing forms, creating beautiful harmony between VSP’s signature graphic look and Chalayan’s avant-garde designs. VSP Boutique, 19 rue Debelleyme (3rd), 01 42 71 40 40

Reese Witherspoon wearing a black and grey paillette embroidered silk dress from the A/W 2014/2015 collection

Jason Woos Monochrome and sleek cuts make up the Autumn/Winter 2014/2015 collection of Boss Womenswear. With Jason Wu, the new Artistic Director at the helm, the collection is a perfectly tailored line of cashmere slip dresses, epaulette coats and embroidered skirts and tops. Embracing the traditional menswear fabrics, Wu incorporated neat tailoring into sophisticated silhouettes, accentuating the waistline, and inspired by the combination of modern architecture, the ready-to-wear line also features pieces with laser-cut detailing and accessories with sharp frames for ladies who prefer their look with a sexy edge. Boss Boutique 372 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 47 03 67 20 w w w.wheretr aveler.c o m 19

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W H E R E PA R I S

BLING RING

IT’S ALL IN THE BAG

Let your hands sparkle with this laceinspired Pandora ring. 20 rue des Francs Bourgeois (4th), 01 57 40 83 53

Add flair to your LBD with this colourful clutch from Shourouk. Available at Le Bon Marché

FOR HER

ANIMAL INSTINCT Dress up a pair of skinny jeans with this zebra-print sweater from Acne. 124 Galerie Valois (1st), 01 42 60 16 62

IT’S A WRAP Keep warm and stay stylish with this cashmere wrap with leather fringe detailing from Then Paris. Available at Gas by Marie 8 ave George V (8th), 01 53 23 88 00

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COLOUR BLOCK CHIC Embrace the colour-blocking trend with this chic black, white and olive sweater from Gaspard Yurkievich. Available at Printemps

BIKER BOY Bring out your inner rebel with this allleather sweater from Acne. 124 Galerie Valois (1st), 01 42 60 16 62

FOR HIM PLEASURABLE BUSINESS Keep your business cards ready to do business in this sleek Tiffany & Co. cardholder. 62 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 84 82 02 00

LEAP IN LOUBOUTINS Step into autumn with a pair of ash-coloured sneakers from Christian Louboutin. 68 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 42 68 37 65

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210x297 SP-WHERE MAGAZINE 2014 - PAGE GAUCHE

WELCOME DESK - TOURIST TAX REFUND - FASHION SHOWS PRIVILEGED WELCOME & VIP SERVICE GOURMET STORE & RESTAURANTS BUREAU D’ACCUEIL - DÉTAXE - DÉFILÉS DE MODE ACCUEIL PRIVILÉGIÉ & SERVICE VIP ALIMENTATION DE LUXE & RESTAURANTS

GALERIES LAFAYETTE PARIS HAUSSMANN 40, BD HAUSSMANN 75009 PARIS MÉTRO : CHAUSSÉE D’ANTIN-LA FAYETTE Open Monday through Saturday from 9.30 AM to 8 PM Late opening every Thursday until 9 PM Ouvert de 9h30 à 20h du lundi au samedi Nocturne jusqu’à 21h le jeudi

Tél : +33 (0)1 42 82 36 40 haussmann.galerieslafayette.com/en/

New Galeries Lafayette Geolocation Application, free download: Nouvelle Application de Géolocalisation des Galeries Lafayette, à télécharger gratuitement sur :

*Le grand magasin capitale de la mode

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W H E R E L U X U R Y [ S H O P P I N G ] R U E S A I N T- H O N O R É - P A L A I S R O Y A L

SHOP STOP

ES AL ES HE RB M VD BL

RUE DE SÈZE

Swarovski

Bcbgmaxazria

❁

❁ Zwilling

PLACE DU MARCHÉ SAINT-HONORÉ

ORÉ

❁Nodus ❁Tous ❁Shiatzy Chen ❁Aésop

PYRAMIDES

Frey Wille

ar cJ ac ob s

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❁D e ❁P lage ie ❁S rre

e a ❁R rge L rdy ick ute ❁M Ow ns

PALAIS ROYAL MUSÉE DU LOUVRE

RUE DE VALOIS

NS ENFANTS

RUE DES BO

RUE S

rdi

uil sT

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RUE SAINT-AUGUSTIN

RUE RICHELIEU

RUE VIVIENNE

ITS CHAMPS

RUE CROIX DES PET

L’

De Fursac

RUE DE LA FEUILLADE

PALAIS ROYAL

ee ud ❁M lin ot

Printemps du Louvre

❁D

❁

RUE DES PYRAMIDES

❁

Lamarthe

PÉ

RUE DES PETITS CHAMPS

RUE DE RIVOLI

RUE SAINT ROCH

❁Cotélac

OPÉRA Kusmi Tea

D E U ❁ N

RUE DE LA SOURDIÈRE

❁Paraboot

The Kooples❁

E LA P AIX

RUE D AUNO U

ES CIN PU CA

S DE

CIN

VD BL

❁Balenciaga

❁St Honoré Paris ❁Jo Malone ❁Bonpoint

Colette❁ Chantal Thomass❁ Cosmoparis❁ Mulberry ❁ Peuterey ❁

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Marella

RUE DE SÈZ E E EIN EL AD M

❁

Talbot Runhof Kiehl’s ❁

❁

12 blvd de la Madeleine - Paris 9th Tel: 01 42 68 88 00 www.zwilling.com

❁

ANOVA RUE DANIELLE CAS

TUILERIES

❁Goyard ❁Dodo ❁Baldinini ❁Moynat

SAIN T-HO N

Church’s❁ Paule Ka❁

CARROUSEL DU LOUVRE

ZWILLING

❁ Eres ❁

RUE D

RUE

❁ Dubail

15 rue Royale - Paris 8th Tel: 01 44 56 09 90 www.testoni.com

This German house has been producing premium kitchenware for nearly three centuries. Stainless steel knives and cookware, cast iron cocottes as well as fine flatware collections are among the offerings for consumers who seek the authentic and emotional experience of cooking and taste. Quality and functionality are the hallmarks of the house.

RUE TRONCHET

S RIN

MADELEINE

LA DE

RUE SAINT-HO NORÉ

RUE DU MONT -THABOR

RUE DE RIVOLI

A.TESTONI

SHOP STOP

❁ Oliver Grant ❁Baccarat

Piguet ❁ ❁ Hedgren ❁ Roberto ❁ RUE CAM BON ❁ Cavalli ❁ Tom Ford Messika❁ Hervé Léger ❁Jimmy Choo Morabito❁ ❁ Hugo Boss Wolford❁ ❁Brooks Brothers ❁Armani Chloé❁ Dior ❁ 2 DsQuared ❁ ❁ Miki House Tumi❁ ❁Omega Arije ❁de Grisogono J.M. ❁ ❁ RUE C Weston Chopard ASTIG LIONE ❁ ❁ Lacoste PLACE VENDÔME ❁ Guerlain

JARDIN DES TUILERIES

RUE

Les Dandys ❁ IER U PASQ

U ATH

❁Lanvin ❁La Perla ❁Loro Piana ❁Prada Cerruti ❁Pinko 1881 ❁ Gucci ❁ ❁ ❁

❁Chanel ❁ Audemars

❁

VD BL

16 rue Royale - Paris 8th Tel: 01 42 60 21 77 www.wempe.fr

Crockett

&Jones

Burberry

RUE ROYALE Chanel Dior ❁ Milliaud ❁ ❁ ❁ ❁Vertu Royal Poiray Wempe ❁Ralph Quartz Michael Kors ❁ ❁ Lancaster Lauren Escada ❁ ❁ Gianfranco Lotti Kenzo ❁ Valentino ❁ ❁ RUE SAINT-FLORENTIN Max Mara Jacquard Césaire ❁ ❁Francais Hublot ❁ ❁Longchamp Chronopassion ❁ ❁Repetto Maje❁ ❁John Galliano

CONCORDE

The renowned German watchmaker has been satisfying customers for over 135 years. Featuring a fine selection of stylish jewellery, luxury watches and chronometers.

The luxury Italian brand a.testoni has been synonymous with Made in Italy craftsmanship since 1929. Such a long experience in shoemaking, mixed with a contemporary freshness in style, enables a.testoni to propose unique shoes, bags, small leather goods, leather coats and jackets for men and women.

❁

RUE ANJOU ❁Saint Laurent ❁Boucheron ❁Givenchy ❁Hermès

M DES

i❁ on st Te on A. urg t He oin ❁ np ud Bo da ❁ ar ue rn liq ❁ Be La aby j Le n

WEMPE

❁❁

❁ Capelstore

RUE

Lanvin❁

Janssens & Janssens

F Le aur Pa é ge Ch an el

SHOP STOP

RUE DE SURÈNE

RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HONOR É

Roger Vivier❁ Valentino❁ Glashütte Original ❁ Porsche Design❁ Chanel❁ AMERICAN Tod’s❁ EMBASSY Cartier ❁ RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS

12/09/2014 15:34

If you are looking for a wide selection of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery, you only need to keep one name in mind. For more than 130 years, the name “WEMPE” has stood for the utmost expertise in the art of making jewellery and timepieces. We offer a unique selection of valuable treasures at 28 Wempe showrooms world-wide. We are especially proud because for more than a century we have been privileged to contribute to the grand feelings that our customers express when they purchase jewellery or timepieces. Our pieces of jewellery uphold international standards and are born in our own atelier. This is true for unusual one-of-a-kind items as well as for our diverse assortment of classic pieces with brilliant-cut diamonds. And a century-old friendship links us with the world’s foremost watch manufactories. You will ﬁ nd WEMPE showrooms at the loveliest locations in great European metropolises and in New York City. Each shop also offers service or advice whenever you require it, so you can be certain that we will always be available to meet your individual needs. We cordially invite you to discover an abundance of interesting new items and exclusive special models at one of Europe’s leading jewellers. We look forward to your visit!

Paris, 16, rue Royale, T +33.1.42 60 21 77 HAMBURG LOND ON PARIS NEW YORK WEMPE.COM

We accept all credit cards.

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SHOP STOP

W H E R E L U X U R Y [ S H O P P I N G ] S A I N T- G E R M A I N

RER

MUSÉE D’ORSAY ED

Ofée . ❁

ILL

❁

UIL

Poltrona Frau ❁ Silvera

Maje ❁ Hartwood ❁

NTS

Deyrolle ❁

SAI

EJ AC O

ES ED

❁

OUR

❁

EN ER

Dot-Drops

❁

Eskandar

❁

American Vintage Saint Laurent ❁ ICEE ❁ E STT--S SULLPPIC RU S U

LATINE

RUE PA

RUE MADAME

RUE MÉZIÈRES

8 rue des Canettes - Paris 6th Tel: 01 43 54 62 15 www.mydotdrops.com

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Hugo

Texier

DU F

Zadig & Voltaire

Forrest

AYE

Vanessa Tugendhaft ❁

❁ Cartier ❁ Swarovski

❁

CH ER

❁ Rowena

E RU

❁ Agnès b

❁ Wolford ❁ L’Occitane

❁ Guerlain

S RE

ABB

❁ Lancel

❁

Robert Clergerie

Inédit Joaillier

RUE❁ DE L’

❁ Montblanc ❁ J.M. Weston

Longchamp

❁

❁ Fabrice

❁ Boss

Tru Trussardi

Hour Passion

❁ DE SÈV ❁ UE

❁

Shang Xia ❁ La Perla Durance ❁ ❁ Repetto ❁ ❁ S Pataugas ❁ Wolford E R

E-

Berluti

RU E

M.A.C.❁ Omega

RUE D E

DOT-DROPS® is the brand of choice for the “happy few” of elite travellers. The philosophy of the French manufacturer is to continuously strive to achieve harmony between design and functionality. DOTDROPS® creations are a solid marriage of colours, design and unexpected materials. Exclusive: you can customize your suitcase at the boutique and make your travel experience unique!

SÈ

DOT-DROPS®

Robert Clergerie

Rolex❁ Hackett❁ Kenzo❁ Ten Clothes

❁

❁Hermès

❁

Armani ❁

Stefanel❁

Saint Laurent ❁ ❁ Tod’s ❁ Sportmax ❁ ❁ Marina Maje ❁ Rinaldi ❁ Alain Mikli ❁ Prada

SÈVRES-BABYLONE Le Bon Marché

Ferragamo

Carven ❁ Alexis Mabille ❁

❁

RU ❁ EJ AC O

SAINT-GERMAIN ❁ Burberry DES-PRÉS

DR AG O

LA CH AISE

L.K. Bennett

❁

RUE DE BABYLONE

Paul & Joe ❁ ❁Shadé ❁ Sergio Rossi ❁ Ventilo ❁ Céline

RUE DU BAC

❁ ❁

L’Ibis Rouge ❁

Implicite

Tag Heuer

❁ Paul Smith

Rodika Zanian

Crockett & Jones ❁

❁

Brunello Cucinelli

SHOP STOP

❁

ASPAIL

2 rue du Sabot, Paris 6th Tel: 01 42 22 16 60 www.tenclothes.com

nz o❁ Pa ul Sm i l’A th ❁ Pa rtisa rfu n me ur ❁

Bang UL Francis Klein Edward EV ❁ & Olufsen ❁ Green AR Zadig & Voltaire D Roche❁ ❁ Karl Lagerfeld SA Bobois ❁ INT Cinna ❁ -GE ❁ Vignes Poiray RM ❁ Mauboussin Christian ❁ AIN Louboutin Façonnable ❁ ❁ Walter ❁ Louis ❁ Agent ❁ Steiger Etro Vuitton ❁ Provocateur

R VARD

On a typical street in the Saint-Germain-desPrés neighbourhood is found this exclusive boutique for babies and children. Joyful and colourful fashion, featuring fabrics of fine quality, contemporary clothing, thought out and elaborated for the wellbeing of your young ones. Get 10% on your next purchase when you present this page.

BOULE

TEN CLOTHES

NAPART

Gab&Jo

Debauve & Gallais ❁

❁ John Lobb

RUE PRINCESSE

RUE DU BAC

Elsa ❁ Vanier

❁ Cassina

RUE BO

SHOP STOP

The Kooples ❁ Bowen ❁

RUE DES CANETTES

This family-run brand offers hand-made, out of sight glasses and accessories. All made in France, their collections cater to all looks, offering glamorous and original frames allowing you to wear a piece of Paris every day. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm.

❁

RUE BONAPARTE

FRANCIS KLEIN

-PÈ

BEA UN

L’U

VO LTA I

Renaissance

RUE

BAC

RUE

30 rue Bonaparte - Paris 6th Tel: 01 44 07 04 28 www.francisklein.com

QU AI

ILL

RES

RENNES

GIR AU V E

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SHOP STOP

W H E R E L U X U R Y [ S H O P P I N G ] C H A M P S - É LY S É E S - M O N T A I G N E

ARC DE TRIOMPHE

AVENUE KLÉBER

ED AV

IÉN

CHARLES DE GAULLE - ÉTOILE

EN AV

’IÉNA

AR C M AV EN UE

❁Milady GEORGE V

U EA

Louis Vuitton❁

EN AV

IER

-SE Leonard❁ RBIE ❁

Cartier

W NE

RUE

R YO

❁ By Marie & Gas Bijoux

BOC CAD OR

Duret Paris E LA

❁ Balenciaga

Valentino

ÉM

MAR

OIL

BEU

Paule Ka❁ Sicis ❁

Guy Laroche ❁ Diane Von Furstenberg

❁

A Anne ❁ VEN ❁ Fontaine ❁ UE Armani ❁ MON MaxMara ❁ Prada ❁ Nina T ❁ Bottega Veneta ❁ AIG Ricci Armani ❁ NE ❁ Louis Vuitton

SHOP STOP

Paul & Joe

❁

Arije ❁

IS 1 ER

E AV

❁ RUE D

ALMA MARCEAU

Stefano Ricci Christofle ❁

EO E G❁ U N Arije

❁

❁ ❁ Bvlgari

Creed

Scabal

BERETTA GALLERY

Brioni❁

Dubail ❁Ulysse Nardin

Tara Jarmon❁ ❁Givenchy ❁Chaumet Kusmi Tea ❁ RU❁ Beretta EP IE Ann Tuil ❁ RR

❁ Tom Ford CHAR RO ❁ Zilli N Kiton ❁Smalto ❁ Vilebrequin ❁ R❁ UE ❁Balmain Berluti M Wolford AR

BE❁ UF

❁ Courrèges

Zadig & Voltaire ❁ Wine by One ❁

Louis Vuitton

❁

NÇO

UE EN AV

-1 ER -DE

FRA

E RC

Kenzo ❁ Armani JP Gaultier ❁ Lacoste ❁ Hermès❁ ❁ Omega ❁ Eric Bompard ❁

NAN

RUE

IG MAR

❁J.M. Weston

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

EN AV

RUE

SHOP STOP

AV E

EW ASH

❁

GTO Swatch N ❁ Tag Heuer

❁ Marionnaud Paris RU

❁ Zara RRI ❁Morgan ❁M.A.C. ❁Levi’s ❁ Tissot ❁Sephora ❁Guerlain ❁Mauboussin ❁Tiffany RU

ÉT

❁ Comptoirs IE de Paris

❁ Maison Ullens

SÉ

❁Versace Dior ❁ ❁Salvatore Ferragamo Caron❁ ❁ Quicksilver ❁ ❁ Akris Dinh van❁ Givenchy ❁ Adidas ❁Chanel ❁Fendi Chanel❁ ❁ Banana Republic ❁Saint Laurent Chloé❁❁ Loewe ❁ Pucci ❁❁ ❁ ❁❁ Ralph Lauren Weleda ❁Gucci ❁ Dolce&Gabbana T L Les Champs d’Or Blumarine VE SE S.T.Dupont O ❁ O Elie Saab .R LIN

EF AV

K AN

FRANKLIN D.ROOSEVELT

RT 1 S ALBE COUR

ESPACE WELEDA

❁ Swarovski ❁Bang & Olufsen ❁ GrandOptical

Hugo Boss❁

C AR

A unique moment in a marvellous place. Weleda, the first organic and natural cosmetic brand, invites you to discover its massages and product line in its wellness space. Enter into the peaceful and natural universe of Weleda with its very contemporary design.

Lancel❁ Dinh Van❁

RUE BALZAC

76 ave des Champs Elysées - Paris 8th Tel: 01 42 56 18 53 www.tissot.ch; E-shop: www.tissotshop.com

57 rue Pierre Charron - Paris 8th Tel: 01 56 88 59 59 www.berettagallery.com

ND LA

TISSOT BOUTIQUE The first European Tissot Flagship store. Discover the largest Tissot watch collection available in Paris with more than 500 references from their traditional watch collection such as the Le Locle Automatic to the most innovative watches with the T-Touch Expert.

Beautifully tailored sport and casual wear from the legendary family-owned, Italian house specialised in the world of nature and hunting are found in this gallery boutique. High quality, refined accessories, stylish and sturdy shoes and boots and gear for the great outdoors are hallmarks of the brand.

❁Cartier ❁Montblanc

EA U

AVENUE D

RI EF

’ ED

10 avenue Franklin Delano Roosevelt - Paris 8th Tel: 01 53 96 06 15 www.espace-weleda.fr

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POWERED BY SOLAR ENERGY T I S S OT T- TOUCH E X P E RT SO LA R. TACTI LE WATCH POWERED BY SOL AR E N E R G Y, O F F E R I N G 2 0 F U N C T I O N S I N C L U D I N G W E AT H E R F O R E C A S T, A LT I M ET E R A N D CO MPASS. I N N OVATO RS BY T RADITION.

T I S S OT S H O P. C O M B OUT IQ U E S T ISSOT 76 , AV E N U E D E S CHAM P S - E LYS É E S – 75 0 08 PARI S G A L E R I E D E S A R C A D E S , AV E N U E D E S C H A M P S - E LY S É E S – 7 5 0 0 8 PA R I S C E N T R E C O M M E RCI AL L E S 4 TE M P S, NI V E AU 2 – 92 0 9 2 PA R I S L A D É F E N S E

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SHOP STOP

WHERE LUXURY [SHOPPING] VENDÔME

SAINT-LAZARE

RUE DU HA VRE

PASSAGE DU HAVRE

Printemps Homme

❁ ❁Citadium

Printemps Beauté-Maison

BUCHERER PARIS

❁

In the heart of the Opera district, between Place Vendôme and Boulevard Haussmann, the House Bucherer unveils a sublime 2200m2 space showcasing the most beautiful Swiss names in watchmaking. The largest boutique in the world dedicated to timepieces, this is the Parisian shop stop.

RUE D

Guerlain ❁

RC L’A

HAVRE CAUMARTIN ❁

Lafayette

Laf

EV AR

aye

tte

❁ Galeries

AU S

Lafayette

iso

AU RO Y

OT D

IGN

CHAUSSÉE D’ANTIN LAF LAFAYETTE Sephora❁

Image

Fragonard ❁ OPÉRA

RUE

CAU

MAR TIN

❁ A Mon IBE

O N CH TR RU E

R BE AU

SHOP STOP

❁ Galeries

E RU

12 boulevard des Capucines – Paris 9th Tel: 01 70 99 18 88 www.bucherer.com

❁

E PRO VENC

Printemps Mode

Golfino ❁

❁

❁Maje

L’Occitane

Bucherer Tag Heuer OPÉRA Lancel ❁❁ ❁ Samsonite ❁

❁ Basler A. Lange & Söhne

❁ ❁ IKKS

❁

❁Maty N

❁

PU CA

E CIN

Jimmy Choo Hugo Boss Brooks Brothers Armani Dior Miki House Omega

RÉ

HO T-

ILL ET

JU 29 ED U

NO VA

IÈ U SO

CA SA

SA E

PYRAMIDES

R PY

NTEUIL

G D’ AL E RU

RUE D’ARGE

Talbot Runhof

Peuterey ❁

IEL

LA DE E

RÉ

Honoré ❁ Saint ❁ Jo Malone ❁ Bonpoint Colette ❁ Chantal Thomass❁ Pataugas ❁ Mulberry ❁

❁

O -H NT

I SA

❁

L IG ❁E.Goyard ST A C R ❁Dodo UE DE Church’s❁ E ❁Moynat DU U R M Paule Ka❁ ❁Piquadro ON TTH Arije AB Miu Miu OR ❁

DA N

MARCHÉ ST-HONORÉ

Dior

❁

TRO

Wille

AVENUE DE L’OPÉRA

❁ ❁ ❁ Rolex ❁ ❁ ❁Van Cleef & Arpels ❁ ❁ DsQuared ❁ ❁Blancpain ❁❁ MisterChrono Jaeger❁ ❁ LeCoultre PLACE ❁Chanel Kusmi Tumi ❁ VENDÔME Kusmi ❁Piaget Chopard RU Tea Tea J.M. ❁ ❁Chaumet E ❁ ❁ Weston ❁Buccellati ❁Hublot ❁ ❁Patek Philippe PLACE Damiani ❁ ❁ Frey DU Mikimoto

SHOP STOP

RRU UE E LO SUA ISIN -LT E-A -GU RGA

Baccarat Christofle Cartier ❁ Repetto ❁ Mellerio ❁ Lalique ❁ Montblanc ❁ Diesel Panerai ❁ AIX❁Dinh van IWC Cave Bernard ❁ P ❁Korloff Wine ❁ Van Cleef ❁ Magrez ❁ LA❁Folli Follie by One & Arpels ❁ E ❁Breitling Hugo❁ De Fursac ❁ Louis Vuitton ❁ E D❁Jaquet Droz Boss Cartier U❁ Harry Winston R❁ Dubail Daum ❁ ❁ ❁Vacheron Constantin ❁ Bvlgari ❁ Loding ❁ ❁Charvet ❁ Gas Bijoux ❁Boucheron ES

26-28 rue Danielle Casanova - Paris 2nd Tel: 01 42 97 58 80 44 rue Etienne Marcel - Paris 2nd Tel: 01 45 08 49 46 8 avenue George V - Paris 8th Tel: 01 53 23 88 00 www.gasbijoux.com

14 rue d’Alger (corner rue Saint-Honoré) - Paris 1st Tel: 01 55 04 85 50 www.talbotrunhof.com

U NSD TI

❁

Hackett Lacoste Omega

Born in Saint-Tropez, Gas Bijoux has been creating jewellery for over 40 years, handmade and artisan, crafted in its Marseilles atelier, and it is now an internationally recognised fashion accessories house.

The German luxury brand has been offering their fashionable clients an array of elegant dresses over the past 20 years. Their collections feature evening, cocktail and wedding dresses using high quality fabrics and originally designed styles with an exceptional attention to details. The dresses are beautifully presented in the house’s first Parisian boutique that is designed like an art gallery.

❁

BOULEVARD DES CAPUCINES

GAS BIJOUX

TALBOT RUNHOF

Boggi

❁Mephisto

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RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HONOR É

SHOP STOP

W H E R E L U X U R Y [ S H O P P I N G ] F A U B O U R G S A I N T- H O N O R É

Puiforcat

VA RD

Walter Steiger❁ MATIGNON

Steiger

❁

BO UL E

R ❁ UE D E

MA L

❁ Emanuel Berg

✴Bristol

Azzaro❁ Vhernier ❁ F.P. Journe ❁

VHERNIER

Pierre Cardin

Sublime jewellery of precious gems and gold from this Italian brand. Each piece is unique, hand-made and influenced in its form by trends in modern and contemporary art.

❁

63, rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré - Paris 8th Tel: 01 40 17 93 15 - paris@vhernier.fr www.vhernier.com

ÉLYSÉE

ES RB HE ES AL M VD

F Le aur Pa é Ch ge an el

ANN

CIN

ES CIN PU CA

S DE

❁ Zwilling

VD BL

RUE CAM ❁ BON ❁ Tom Ford ❁ Hervé Léger ❁Jimmy Choo ❁Hugo Boss ❁Brooks Brothers ❁Armani ❁Dior ❁Miki House ❁Omega ❁de Grisogono

Hedgren

SM HAUS VARD

❁

BOULE

❁

❁ Bcbgmaxazria

E EIN EL AD M

Chanel

❁ Audemars ❁ Piguet

LA DE

RUE SAINT-HO NOR

RUE DU MONT -THABOR

SAIN T

RUE DANIELLE

RUE

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RUE DE RIVOLI

32 W H E R E Pa r i s i O s ECPTO TEB MEBrE r 2014 2014

❁ Longchamp ❁Repetto

Chronopassion ❁ Maje❁

❁

VD BL

Césaire ❁ Hublot ❁

RUE C ASTIG LIONE

MADELEINE

Gucci Chanel Dior RUE TRONCHET ❁ ❁Vertu Wempe ❁ Ralph ❁ ❁ Lauren Eres JB Guanti ❁ Lancaster ❁ ❁Gianfranco Lotti ❁ Swarovski Marella ❁Max Mara ❁ ❁ Durance Kenzo

RUE SAINT-FLORENTIN

14 rue Chauveau-Lagarde - Paris 8th Tel: 01 44 94 01 74 www.crockettandjones.com

❁ Oliver Grant ❁ Baccarat

❁Lanvin ❁La Perla ❁Loro Piana ❁Prada Cerruti ❁Pinko 1881 ❁ ❁❁ ❁

❁

Roberto ❁ Cavalli Messika❁ Morabito❁ Wolford❁ Chloé ❁ DsQuared2❁ Maria Luisa ❁ Tumi❁ J.M. ❁ Arije Weston

Les Crockett Dandys ❁ UIER &Jones ❁ RUE PASQ ❁ Burberry

❁

Janssens & Janssens

❁Boucheron ❁Givenchy ❁Hermès

❁

JOU

D’AN

INS HUR

RUE ROYALE

RUE

❁ Capelstore

MAT

❁❁

RUE ANJOU

❁Saint Laurent

ti❁ h❁ rlu it i❁ Be l Sm ston u e Pa .T gon A ur t He oin ❁ np ud Bo rda e ❁ a u rn liq ❁ Be La aby j Le

❁

Lanvin

❁Sotheby’s ❁Milady ❁Chopard ❁Sonia Rykiel ❁Poiray ❁Christian Louboutin ❁Etro ❁Pomellato ❁Barbara Bui

DES

RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS

Milliaud Royal Poiray Quartz Michael Kors ❁ Escada ❁ CONCORDE Valentino ❁

CROCKETT & JONES

❁Bally ❁Blumarine ❁Burberry ❁Brunello Cucinelli ❁Ermenegildo Zegna ❁Salvatore Ferragamo ❁

Roger Vivier❁ Heurgon❁ Glashütte Original❁ Porsche Design❁ Chanel❁ AMERICAN Tod’s❁ EMBASSY Cartier ❁

JANSSENS & JANSSENS

A reference for more than 130 years among the amateurs of beautiful Goodyear-welted shoes, the English luxury brand for men perpetuates the artistic quality and custom-made service.

E RU

RUE

RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HONOR É

Apostrophe❁

SHOP STOP

❁ ❁ Caron

RUE DE SURÈNE

SHOP STOP

Frette❁

3 rue d’Anjou - Paris 8th (Corner 46 Fbg St Honoré) Tel: 01 42 65 04 00 www.janssensparis.com

ÈS

ÉR

C BA

Montagut

RUE DE L’ÉLYSÉE

In the very heart of the Faubourg St-Honoré discover more than 3,000 different clothing fabrics, all extraordinary, and many used by haute couture designers. Owner Françoise Janssens can also recommend one of 40 local seamstresses.

❁ Miu-Miu

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W H E R E PA R I S [ S H O P P I N G ]

WATCHES

True Blue Cruising It is an exceptional timepiece for stripped of its dial and hands the Blue Cruiser from Ulysse Nardin is designed so its movement revolves on itself. Its rotating lower bridge indicates the hours while the upper bridge, in the shape of a skeleton-like ship’s anchor shows the minutes, and that upper bridge also carries the gear train, the spring and the exclusive Dual Ulysse silicon escapement. The system, named the flying Carrousel-Tourbillon, is entirely free floating since it no longer includes the centre pin. The watch is also unusual in the way in which it is

operated as it is stripped of a crown and push-pieces, it is set by using the rotating bezel, in both directions, and the manual winding is done using the rear bezel mounted on ball bearings. The watch offers a power reserve of seven days and the breathtaking manual wind movement is visible through the open back. The 45mm watch is available in 18-karat white or rose gold and the Blue Cruiser with its handsome deep aquatic hues is particularly suited to travelling. - P.V. Ulysse Nardin Boutique 60 rue Francois 1er (8th), 01 53 75 03 79

A plush place for Panerai The Florentine house of Officine Panerai has a new sleek boutique in Paris to showcase its iconic and elegant timepieces. Panerai teamed up with the celebrated designer Patricia Urquiola to create a new concept for its boutiques in Florence, Hong Kong, Miami, New York and Paris. Founded in Florence in 1860 Panerai was the official supplier of precision instruments to the Italian navy, and so the theme of the sea is always present in certain details in the luxury watch house’s boutiques and in the new Parisian boutique soft tones of white and brown abound. The decor is elegant, contemporary and refined featuring not only the sea but also the house’s Florentine origins and watch making expertise. Today Panerai develops its own movements and watches infused with Italian design in their manufacture in Neuchâtel in Switzerland. - P.V. 5 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 44 51 50 50

Budding Time Flower Time is an exclusive line of jewellery watches by Italian house Pasquale Bruni in which time is dressed up in flowers in an eternal blossoming of moments and emotions. Revealed at Baselworld 2014, this Swiss-made watch in pink gold and diamonds with a sapphire crystal possesses a red lacquer face with dainty hands in pink gold set off by a red satin bracelet. Its finesse is drawn from the craftsmanship of Italian savoir-faire capable of rendering every detail precious. Its movement is made by Swiss manufacturer ETA, which has been developing, and producing calibres for the watch industry since 1793. The house’s movements are regarded as global benchmarks for their reliability and performance. – P.V. Available at Galeries Lafayette 40 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 42 82 34 56 34 W H E R E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2014

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ADVERTORIAL

TAILORED LUXURY BY

EMANUEL BERG

The world of the luxury shirt has found its home at 140 Rue du Faubourg Saint-HonorĂŠ Working with William Figaret, the son of Alain Figaret, the founder of the French luxury shirt-maker, the house of Emanuel Berg aims to offer its clients the best expertise in shirt tailoring. In the spacious and elegantly designed new boutique both ladies and gentlemen will find a plethora of shirts to choose from, whether off-the-rack or bespoke, the perfect shirt awaits here. Clients can choose from a selection of 1000 different fabrics, 60 different collar styles and 35 different cuffs to create their bespoke shirt. Tailored from mostly Italian fabrics the shirts are put together in Europe and are delivered within a fortnight. The family-run fashion house also offers elegant accessories complementing the tailored shirts, including chic cufflinks, socks

and beautiful headscarves for the ladies. Monograms in different fonts and colours can also be subtly embroidered into the shirts, adding an even more personalised touch to the shirts. With a large foreign clientele, Emanuel Berg understand the importance of impeccable service and with that in mind delivery of bespoke shirts can be organised anywhere in the world, bringing luxury service to your doorstep.

140 rue du Faubourg Saint-HonorĂŠ (8th), 01 53 75 48 01 www.emanuelberg.com Emanuel Berg will offer Where readers a 20% discount on the total sale of 5 tailor-made shirts or more. w w w.wheretr aveler.c o m 35

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W h e r e pa r i s

accessorise for a Good Cause

VINTAGE & DESIGN CHANEL - DIOR - LACROIX YSL - LANVIN

L’IBIS ROUGE This beautiful and original boutique in the heart of Saint Germain des Prés offers a unique array of vintage couture fashion and jewellery. You will also find a fine selection of vintage alligator bags and contemporary jewellery pieces from French and foreign designers.

Every year Tommy Hilfiger designs a limited edition bag to raise funds and build awareness about breast cancer, and this year the American designer continues his support of Breast Health International (BHI) with the launch of the 2014 bag. Modelled by actress Naomi Watts, the navy blue bag, made with Italian pebbled leather and featuring tan detailing and red piping, embodies Tommy Hilfiger’s allAmerican style. The proceeds from the sales of the bag, which will be available from the 1st of October, will be donated to BHI’s Fund for Living programme. The 2014 bag is available in selected Tommy Hilfiger boutiques including 65 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 45 61 54 55

evening statements Georges Hobeika’s Autumn/Winter 2014/2015 couture collection may have been inspired by the works of Claude Monet, with flowing silk chiffon, shimmering organza and tulle, his accessories were more ornate. Bejewelled with glowing beads, his evening bags are for the woman who loves to make a statement. For the more subdued tastes the clear crystal and silver version is perfect while for the more daring the oriental-inspired gold bag and the Indian sari-coloured beaded option make for vibrant accessorising. Georges Hobeika Showroom 15 rue Royale (8th), 01 40 07 57 54

35 Blvd Raspail - Paris 7th M° Sevres Babylone Tel: +33 (0)1 45 48 98 21 ibis-rouge@wanadoo.fr Tuesday to Saturday 12-7pm Facebook.com/L’Ibis Rouge 36 W H E R E Pa r i s i O C TO B E r 2014

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[SHOPPING] JEWELLERY BOUCHERON The first of the great contemporary jewellers to open a boutique on the Place Vendôme, Boucheron has embodied excellence in jewellery, high jewellery and watch making for more than 150 years. Each collection draws from the history and the values of the Maison, celebrating a modern prowess that is constantly reinvented. Each watch and jewellery creation sublimates their exceptional stones with the precious material of which they are sculpted. Each creation captures light and crystallizes an emotion. 26 pl Vendôme (1st), 01.42.61.58.16. Mº Opéra CHAUMET Famous for fine jewellery since 1780, and once the favourite of Napoleon, this fine jewellery house was founded by MarieEtienne Nitot and is known for its savoir-faire in

venez avec vos yeux, nous nous occupons du reste

tiaras. The house’s iconic jewellery

7 4 r u e d e s s a in t s p è r e s , p a r is 7 è m e

collections include

tel : +33 (0)1 45 49 40 00 - email : boutique.saintsperes@mikli.com

correction et distinction

the Bee My Love and the AttrapeMoi collection, which is inspired by a spider’s web. 12 pl Vendôme (1st), 01.44.77.26.26. Mº Tuileries

Ring from Chaumet’s Liens collection

DE BEERS Diamonds have mesmerised famous figures in history since the dawn of time. No one knows diamonds like South African specialist De Beers. Cut for beauty and crafted by artisans, De Beers offers an incredible choice of first-rate diamonds coveted by the greatest jewellery connoisseurs. De Beers at Printemps, Printemps du Luxe, 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.49.43. Mº Havre Caumartin DE GRISOGONO In an entrancing Baroque atmosphere, discover the superbly set myriad stones, fine craftsmanship and black diamond jewellery that are the hallmarks of this luxury jeweller and watchmaker. The establishment releases a boutique collection and unique pieces each year and has recently launched a line of prestigious leather goods. www.degrisogono.com. 358 bis rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.44.55.04.40. Mº Tuileries w w w.wheretr aveler.c o m 37

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FASHION AT THE

VILLAGE

38 W H E R E Pa r i s i O C TO B E r 2014

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advertorial

an outdoor shopping experience where you can stroll along the streets zigzagging your way through the boutiques and giving your wardrobe a new look. Grab a new Michael Kors bag, find a new pair of Armani jeans to slip into with a pair of new sexy Jimmy Choo heels to strut in and with every brand proudly showing the original price and the reduced price on each tag you can see just how much you will be saving. La Vallée Village also features restaurants and cafes for you to stop and eat in during your marathon-shopping day to give you a boost and get you ready for more shopping. There is also an art gallery on site, Espace La Vallée Village, where temporary exhibits are organised, injecting a little bit of culture in your day. And through to the 5th of January 2015, French artisan and industrial heritage take centre stage at the Espace La Vallée Village with the Made in France exhibition. Presenting 20 photos of objects that have defined daily French lives for generations, from fashion items to children’s toys, the exhibition highlights the savoir-faire known to France. Curated in collaboration with the publishing house Editions de La Martinière, La Vallée Village invites visitors to discover the secret world of the “Made in France” mark of quality and the French art of living. And don’t forget to download La Vallée Village app, Chicoutletshopping, which will share with you the city’s best-kept secrets.

La Vallée Village is one of the fashion capital’s most stylish attractions. Designed to resemble a mini village, complete with elegant streets and chic boutiques, La Vallée Village is a must-see while visiting the French capital. The fashion outlet’s quaint little village design is very welcoming and is only a short trip from Paris.

oasting all your favourite brands including Tod’s, Kenzo, Diane von Furstenberg, and Moncler, La Vallée Village is a unique shopping experience where you can stock up on the best of last season’s trends for very attractive prices. With over 120 French and international luxury and fashion brands and with fabulous savings, it is not hard to see why this is quite the luxurious shopping destination for all fashionistas. Making for a great day out, the village offers

La Vallée Village 3 cours de la Garonne, 77700 Serris 01 60 42 35 00 There is a luxury coach service put in place by La Vallée Village for your convenience with coaches leaving from the city centre twice a day. w w w.wheretr aveler.c o m 39

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W H E R E PA R I S [ S H O P P I N G ]

BEAUGRENELLE

Printemps Haussmann

This elegant and luminous shopping centre overlooking the Seine houses a fine selection of chic and elegant boutiques devoted to clothing, accessories and the home, along with food shops, restaurants and a cinema. This environmentally friendly complex has a green roof welcoming a bird refuge and beehives, green walls and a free shuttle boat links the centre with the Eiffel Tower. Mon-Sat, 10am-9pm. Thurs until 10pm. Cinema and Restaurants: Mon-Sun, 10am-midnight. 12 rue Linois (15th). M° Charles Michels BHV/MARAIS A department store known for its great homeware selection and appliances as well as a good selection of top brand names for women and children. Mon, Tues, Thurs, Fri 9:30am – 7:30pm, Wed 9:30am – 9pm, Sat 9:30am – 8pm. BHV Homme – a shop exclusively dedicated to men (36 rue de la Verrerie). 14 rue du Temple (4th), 01.42.74.90.00. M° Hôtel de Ville LE BON MARCHE The oldest department store in Paris and

DEPARTMENT STORES

the only one on the Rive Gauche. Extremely

will find international luxury brands and original

concept that offers only exclusive luxury brands

chic, with a great selection of ready-to-wear,

designs from young talents.

that you won’t find anywhere else. Printemps

household goods, cosmetics and lingerie,

80 rue de Passy (16th), 01.44.14.38.00.

de la Mode is one floor entirely dedicated to

all under a lovely glass roof. And the entire

M° La Muette

shoes while Printemps de la Lingerie carries 80 labels – several exclusive to Printemps, including

basement floor is dedicated to men. Mon-Sat 10am – 8pm, Thurs & Fri until 9pm.

GALERIES LAFAYETTE

the cult London line Agent Provocateur. On

24 rue de Sèvres (7th), 01.44.39.80.00.

This elegant department store carries top

the 6th and 7th floors of the Printemps Beauty/

M° Sèvres-Babylone

brands including Chanel, Chloé and Gaultier.

Home store are fashions for children.

There’s a wonderful lingerie department, a new

Mon – Sat 9:35am – 8pm, Thurs until 8:45pm.

LE CARROUSEL DU LOUVRE

children’s concept store that takes up an entire

64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.50.00

Art, beauty, technology, leather goods and more

floor, restaurants, wine bars and a tea room and

M° Havre-Caumartin

are found under the famous inverted pyramid at

the cosmetics and perfume section offers 260

the Louvre in the Carrousel du Louvre. A unique

different brands. Lafayette Homme – A separate

PRINTEMPS DU LOUVRE

shopping venue, it brings together a collection

building housing men’s fashion and accessories.

Discover the new Printemps celebrating luxury

of boutiques that are opened every day of the

Lafayette Maison – (Across the street) a home

and French know-how in the heart of the

year.

décor shop with sophisticated furnishings.

Louvre Museum, showcasing the most

10am – 8pm, even on Sundays.

Mon – Sat 9:30am – 8:00pm, Thurs until 9 pm.

prestigious accessories, beauty products,

99 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.43.16.47.10.

40 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.34.56.

watches and jewellery brands.

M° Palais Royal – Musée du Louvre

M° Chaussée d’Antin-La Fayette

Open 7 days a week, 10am-8pm.

CITADIUM

PRINTEMPS HAUSSMANN

01.76.77.41.00.

A sports haven for all lovers of sportswear and

Printemps’ exquisite world of Luxury and

M° Palais-Royal – Musée du Louvre

streetwear. Find everything from clothing to

Accessories, spread out over 3 floors, plays host

accessories with original and cutting-edge

to a splendid collection of luxury houses and the

LA VALLEE VILLAGE

designs.

most sought-after labels. Printemps de l’Homme,

A village-like shopping outlet on the city

Mon-Sat 10 am - 8 pm, Thurs till 9 pm.

the very first to dedicate an entire shop to men,

outskirts offering discounts of up to 60% on

50-56 rue Caumartin (9th), 01.55.31.74.00.

houses six floors of menswear and a men’s salon.

a hundred luxury labels including Armani,

M° Havre-Caumartin

International Designers, an entire floor dedicated

Burberry, Tumi and Ralph Lauren.

to trendy new designers, is home to prestigious

Mon-Sun, 10am-8pm.

FRANCK ET FILS

fashion designers with the space created by

Shopping Express Shuttle bus departs from

A Parisian favourite for luxury shopping with

fashion visionary Maria Luisa Poumaillou.

the centre of Paris twice a day at 9:30am and

a wide selection of luxury brands. A veritable

Printemps de la Beauté features two floors of

12:30pm. 3 cours de la Garonne,

department store for men’s and women’s ready-

products and beauty supplies as well as a spa

01.60.42.35.00. RER A4 to

to-wear collections and accessories. Here you

and beauty salon. La Scent Room is a unique

Val d’Europe (about 35min).

Carrousel du Louvre, 99 rue de Rivoli (1st),

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[SHOPPING]

shOpping time advertorial

tikibou toy stores

byebuy

The oldest toy store in Paris where you can find an incredible selection of antique favourites including Tintin, model cars, music boxes and more. There is a wonderful and fun selection for young and old alike. Tuesday-Saturday 10am-7:30pm

Luxury showroom specialised in leading French luxury goods brands: Chanel, Hermès, Louis Vuitton, Dior, Goyard, Cartier, Yves Saint Laurent. Showroom for men and women. The space can be privatized. Discretion guaranteed.

20 ave de Trudaine, Paris 9th 33 blvd Edgar Quinet, Paris 14th 20 ave Félix Faure, Paris 15th www.tikibou.fr

4 rue des Gravilliers, Paris 3rd M° Arts et Métiers Tel: 06 63 13 06 30 www.byebuy.fr

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RENAISSANCE

W H E R E PA R I S

VINTAGE COUTURE Clothing, accessories and jewellery

VINTAGE CHANEL, DIOR, HERMÈS, BALENCIAGA, YSL ...

14 rue de Beaune, 7th, Paris (Metro: Rue du Bac) www.renaissancevintageparis.com renaissance75007@orange.fr Tel. 06 85 43 03 52 / 01 42 60 95 49

Paris

INTO THE BLUE With a top note of ginger, a heart note of lavender and a base note of patchouli, Courrèges’s new perfume, in blue, is an intoxicating floral bouquet. The surprisingly fresh yet warm scent is packaged in an azure blue bottle elegantly topped off with a golden sphere. Available at Courrèges 40 rue François 1er (8th), 01 40 70 14 60

ONE STOP SHOP BEAUTY HAVENS SEPHORA Perfumes, cosmetics, beauty products, you might wind up spending the day here in this fabulous store filled not only with goods but plenty of services, too. You can have your nails, eyebrows and hair done, and then try out samples galore. 70-72 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.93.22.50. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

SPACE DEDICATED TO HIGH - TECH LEISURE , STAMPS AND CULTURE JUST A FEW STEPS AWAY FROM P RINTEMPS DEPARTMENT STORE ■ 300m2

in the heart of the Opera neighbourhood MonTimbraMoi® photo space to create your personalised stamps ■ An interactive stamp library about Paris and France ■ A large selection of beautiful postcards and paper ■ The largest selection of stamps for letters and postcards from Paris ■A

13bis rue des Mathurins, Paris 9e / Tél : 01 53 05 81 61 Open Monday – Saturday 10am to 7pm

www.lecarredencre.fr

MARIONNAUD PARIS A fine selection of perfumes and cosmetics for men, women and children are the hallmarks of this glorious beauty haven. Gift sets, travel articles, make-up as well as exclusive products are among the great finds in this boutique where you can also get your make-up done during your beautifying shopping spree. 104 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.96.50.00. M° George V

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[SHOPPING]

BEAUTY BUZZ

Burberry Beauty During the Autumn/Winter 2014/2015 runway show for Burberry, the fashion house showcased the subdued makeup palette to complement this season’s hottest fashion trends. As modelled by Cara Delevingne on the catwalk, the Burberry make-up collection is made up of warm colours with earthy and nude tones. While pinks and shades of natural browns dominated the make-up, a more colourful, yet still very in tune with the warm colours of autumn, palette made up the nail polish range with shades of gold, teal blue and elderberry red. Available at the Burberry flagship boutique. 56 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 72 07 00 21

Caviar for your Face Eliminate any signs of fatigue and look younger with La Prairie’s Skin Caviar Luxe Cream. This luxurious cream, which stimulates the production of collagen, hydrates your skin and leaves it looking firmer and feeling like smooth satin. Used day and night on perfectly cleansed skin, this ultimate luxe product, which is made with caviar extract, will also help improve your skin’s elasticity. Available at Benlux 174 rue de Rivoli (1t), 01 47 03 66 66

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W h e r e pa r i s

SPAS

Le spa The Park Hyatt Paris-Vendôme Hotel has recently welcomed the exclusive Crème de la Mer into its spa. The luxurious treatments, which vary from body to facial treatments, include the Soin Excellence Eclat Lumière, a facial treatment focusing on illuminating your face. With all treatments using the products of the iconic skincare brand, you will leave feeling like a million dollars! 5 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01 58 71 10 09

This month’s top spas

18 rue Vieille du Temple (4th), 01.49.70.98.34. M° St. Paul SIX SENSES

AQUAMOON

beauty and massage treatments in the opulent

Enter this sanctuary to well-being doted with

This spa for ladies nestled behind a blue door

setting of one of the family’s former apartments.

stunning architecture featuring the elements

is a sanctuary dedicated to relaxation and

The space also features

and an interior vertical garden. The spas cocoon

wellbeing. A full selection of spa and beauty

68 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th),

rooms offer an extensive treatment menu

treatments is available including traditional mas-

01.45.62.52.57.

including half-day sensory journeys and

sages and facials. There are two pools, a steam

M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Asian-based rejuvenating treatments. 3 rue de Castiglione (1st), 01.43.16.10.10.

room and sauna on the premises. Yoga and

Mº Tuileries

pilates classes are offered as well.

LUSH SPA

19 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.86.10.00.

This soothing spa in the Marais district features

M° Opéra

products made from fresh and organic ingre-

SPA CINQ MONDES

dients. Treatments include The Good Hour

This spacious spa tucked away in a quiet

GUERLAIN

Massage, a deep tissue massage to treat aches

courtyard offers an array of face and body treat-

Within the iconic boutique on the most beauti-

and pains and The Spell, a spellbinding foot

ments inspired by many cultures, including an

ful avenue in the world, you can enjoy excellent

treatment that will have you walking on air.

Ayurvedic Indian massage, a revitalising Taoist

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25800_BTSP ANNONCE VERTIC_OK_BTS 27/12/1

[shopping] Contemporary Asian Spa

The Art of Thaï Massage B

A N

H A I

P A

A R I S

Thaï Massage Oil Massage

massage and a Shiatsu massage.

Emotionelle gently releases tensions with a

Foot Massage

6 sq de l’Opéra-Louis-Jouvet (9th),

facial drainage technique restoring your eyes to

Massage for 2

01.42.66.00.60.

their youthful look. The spa uses the prestigious

Mº Opéra

products from the Swiss anti-ageing skincare

Hammam

specialists Valmont. MY BLEND BY CLARINS

228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.58.10.77.

Enjoy a wonderful beauty treatment in this spa

M° Tuileries

by the French beauty company Clarins. Enjoy

Body Scrub

the Art of Touch signature treatment combing

VILLA THALGO

Near Louvre Museum

both face and body rituals to relax, revitalise and

This luxurious spa is dedicated to well being and

regenerate you. The spa dedicated to well-being

beauty from the sea. The spa is specialised in

5, rue Mandar - 75002 Paris

is located inside the Le Royal Monceau hotel.

water therapy treatments using their own

37 ave Hoche (8th), 01.42.99.88.99.

products elaborated with sea minerals. Aqua

M° Charles de Gaulle-Etoile

gym, a unique sea minerals hammam, a fitness

+ 33 1 40 28 00 80 M° Etienne Marcel (line 4) www.massage-thai-paris.fr

centre and a relaxation space are found within. SPA VALMONT

8 ave Raymond Poincaré (16th),

This luxurious spa in the Hotel Le Meurice offers

01.45.62.00.20.

wonderful beautifying treatments like the Bulle

M° Trocadéro

O P E N D A I LY 1 1 A M T O 9 P M

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[address book]

shopping l u x u r y s e r v i c e at y o u r f i n g e r t i p s

Accessories Alfred dunhill - 15 rue de la Paris (2 ), 01.42.61.57.58. M° Opéra le cArré d’encre - 13bis rue des Mathurins (9th) , 01.53.05.81.61. M° Havre-Caumartin Misterchrono - 23 rue Danielle Casanova (1st), 09.53.42.04.64. Mº Opéra MontblAnc - 152 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.44.20.07.70. Mº George V robert clerGerie - 5 rue du ChercheMidi (6th), 01.45.48.75.47. M° Rennes swArovski - 32 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.65.28.10. Mº Madeleine s.t. dupont - 58 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.45.61.08.39. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt vertu - 18 rue Royale (8th),01.42.86.56.66. Mº Madeleine wAlter steiGer - 83 Faubourg St-Honoré (8th) , 01.42.66.65.08. M° Miromesnil nd

BeAuty spA & products l’ArtisAn pArfuMeur - 2 rue de l’AmiralColigny (1st), 01.44.88.27.50. Mº Pont Neuf bAn thAi spA - 20 rue Dauphine (6th), 01.43.54.01.01. Mº Odéon espAce weledA - 10 ave Franklin D. Roosevelt (8th), 01.53.96.06.15. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt GuerlAin - 68 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.45.62.52.57. Mº George V lAncÔMe - 29 rue du Fbg-St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.65.30.74. Mº Madeleine les coMptoirs de durAnce - 24 rue Vignon (9th), 01.47.42.04.10. Mº Madeleine l’occitAne - 55 rue St-Louis en L’Ile (4th), 01.40.46.81.71. Mº Pont Marie M.A.c. - 76 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.76.05.99. M° George V MAke up for ever - 5 rue des FrancsBourgeois (4th), 01.42.71.23.19. M° St-Paul MArionnAud pAris - 104 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.96.50.00. M° George V sAlon chistophe robin - Hotel Meurice, 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.40.20.02.83. M° Tuileries sAlon John nollet - Hotel Park Hyatt, 5 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.55.80.71.50. M° Opéra sephorA - 70-72 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.93.22.50. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

children’s clothing & toys boites A MusiQue AnnA Joliet - 9 rue de Beaujolais (1st), 01.42.96.55.13. Mº Pyramides bonpoint - 6 rue de Tournon (6th), 01.40.51.98.20. Mº Mabillon

cAtiMini - 15 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.44.71.06.23. Mº Madeleine JAcAdi - 17 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.42.65.84.98. Mº Madeleine Joué club - 3-5 boulevard des Italiens (2nd), 01.53.45.41.41. Mº Tuileries Miki house - 366 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.40.20.90.98. Mº Tuileries petit bAteAu - 116 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.40.74.02.03. Mº George V tArtine et chocolAt - 84 rue du Fbg St.Honoré (8th), 01.45.62.44.04. Mº SaintPhilippe-du-Roule tikibou toy store - 33 blvd Edgar Quinet (14th), 01.43.20.98.79. Mº Edgar Quinet ten clothes - 2-4 rue du Sabot (6th), 01.42.22.16.60. M° St Sulpice

clothing: Men & WoMen Anne fontAine - 17 rue François 1er (8th), 01.40.73.78.01. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt bAnAnA republic - 22 ave des ChampsElysées (8th), 01.53.89.03.92. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt bcbGMAXAZriA -14 blvd de la Madeleine (8th), 01.43.12.55.20. Mº Madeleine berettA GAllery - 57 rue Pierre Charron (8th), 01.56.88.59.59. Mº George V cApelstore - 26 blvd Malesherbes (8th), 01.42.66.34.21. Mº Madeleine cArven - 34 rue St Sulpice (6th), 09.60.45.47.04. M° Mabillon cerruti 1881 - 27 rue Royale (8th), 01.53.30.18.72. Mº Madeleine chAnel - 31 rue Cambon (1st), 01.44.50.66.00. Mº Concorde de fursAc - 146 blvd St-Germain (6th), 01.43.25.40.66. Mº St-Germain-des-Prés dior - 30 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.40.73.73.73. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt dsQuAred2 - 247-251 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.71.93.60.00. Mº Concorde eMAnuel berG - 140 rue du Fbg SaintHonoré (8th), 01.53.75.48.01. Mº SaintPhilippe-du-Roule hervé leGer - 24 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.60.02.00. Mº Madeleine iblues - 16 rue de Passy (16th), 01.42.88.68.67. Mº Passy JeAn pAul GAultier - 44 ave George V (8th), 01.44.43.00.44. Mº George V kArl lAGerfeld - 194 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.42.22.74.99. Mº Rue du Bac kenZo - 27 blvd de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.61.04.14. M° Madeleine lAcoste - 37 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.61.58.20. M° Opéra lAnvin- 22 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th), 01.44.71.31.73. Mº Concorde

lA perlA - 20 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th), 01.43.12.33.50. Mº Concorde les dAndys - 23 rue Pasquier (8th), 01.40.07.05.52. Mº Saint-Augustin levi’s store - 76 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th) , 01.53.53.05.70. Mº Georges V MArellA - 18 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.53.30.73.13. Mº Madeleine MArinA rinAldi - 20 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.86.10.90. Mº Madeleine MontAGut - 90 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th), 01.40.17.05.73. Mº Concorde rowenA forrest - 23 rue du Cherche-Midi (6th), 01.42.65.25.46. Mº Sèvres-Babylone tAlbot runhof - 14 rue d’Alger (1st), 01.55.04.85.50. Mº Tuileries Zilli - 48 rue François 1er (8th), 01.53.23.90.96. Mº George V

eye WeAr AlAin Mikli - 74 rue des Saints-Pères (7th), 01.45.49.40.00. M° Sèvres-Babylone frAncis klein - 30 rue Bonaparte (6th), 01.44.07.04.28. Mº St-Germain-des-Prés GrAndopticAl - 138 ave des ChampsElysées (8th), 01.40.76.00.13. Mº George V

FABrics: couture JAnssens & JAnssens - 3 rue d’Anjou (8th), 01.42.65.04.00. Mº Concorde

Food & Wine cAve bernArd MAGreZ - 43 rue St. Augustin (2nd), 01.49.24.03.11. Mº Quatre-Septembre cAviAr petrossiAn - 8 blvd de la TourMaubourg (7th), 01.44.11.32.32. Mº La TourMaubourg debAuve & GAllAis - 30 rue des SaintsPères (7th), 01.45.48.54.67. Mº St-Germaindes-Prés fAuchon - 26 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.70.39.38.00. Mº Madeleine hediArd - 21 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.43.12.88.88. Mº Madeleine kusMi teA - 71 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.63.08.08. Mº George V lAdurée - 75 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.40.75.08.75. Mº George V MAriAGe frÈres - 30 rue du Bourg-Tibourg (4th), 01.42.72.28.11. Mº Hôtel de Ville pierre herMé - 72 rue Bonaparte (6th), 01.43.54.47.77. Mº St-Sulpice wine by one - 9 rue des Capucines (1st), 01.42.60.85.76. Mº Opéra

hoMe decor Ateliers d’Art de frAnce boutiQue (tAlents) - 26 ave Niel (17th), 01.44.40.22.80. Mº Pereire/Ternes bAccArAt - 11 place des États-Unis (16th), 01.40.22.11.22. Mº Boissière bernArdAud - 11 rue Royale (8th), 01.47.42.82.66. Mº Madeleine christofle - 9 rue Royale (8th), 01.55.27.99.13. Mº Concorde lAliQue - 11 rue Royale (8th), 01.53.05.12.12. Mº Madeleine silverA - 56-58 ave Kléber (16th), 01.53.65.78.78. Mº Kléber ZwillinG - 12 blvd de la Madeleine (9th), 01.42.68.88.00. Mº Madeleine

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for more shopping destinations , go to wheretraveler.com/paris

JeWellery & WAtches A. lAnGe & söhne - 19 rue de la Paix (9th), 01.42.65.68.71. Mº Opéra AnGelA cAputi GiuGGiu - 15 Galerie Véro-Dodat (1st), 01.40.39.01.51. Mº Louvre-Rivoli AriJe - 3 rue de Castiglione (1st), 01.42.60.37.77. Mº Tuileries boucheron - 26 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.61.58.16. Mº Opéra bucherer - 12 blvd des Capucines (9th), 01.70.99.18.88. Mº Opéra bvlGAri - 25 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.00.50. Mº Pyramides cArtier - 23 place Vendôme (1st), 01.44.53.32.20. Mº Opéra chopArd - 1 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.20.10. Mº Opéra dAMiAni - 2 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.96.95.51. M° Opera dodo by poMellAto - 350 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.31.55. Mº Tuileries f.p. Journe - 63 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.68.08.00. Mº Champs-Elysées Clemenceau hArry winston - 6 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.47.20.03.09. M° Opéra hublot - 10 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.86.67.86. Mº Opéra inedit JoAillier - 14 rue de l’Abbaye (6th), 01.56.24.13.85. MºSt-Germain-des-Prés Gucci wAtches - Printemps Haussmann (1st floor), 64 bd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.78.74, Mº Havre-Caumartin oMeGA - 362/364 rue Saint-Honoré (2nd), 01.55.35.03.60. Mº Concorde pAnerAi - 5 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (8th), Mº Concorde pAtek philippe - 10 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.44.17.77. Mº Tuileries piAGet - 16 place Vendôme (1st), 01.58.18.14.15. Mº Tuileries tiffAny&co. - 6 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.40.20.20 20. Mº Opéra tissot boutiQue - 76 ave des ChampsElysées (8th), 01.42.56.18.53. Mº George V vAn cleef & Arpels - 22 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.04.11.11. Mº Opéra vhernier - 63 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.17.93.15. Mº Miromesnil weMpe - 16 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.21.77. Mº Concorde

luggage and bags cesAire - 6 rue Saint-Florentin (1st), 01.42.97.43.43. Mº Concorde/Madeleine coAch (available at Printemps): 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.46.35. Mº Havre-Caumartin dot-drops - 8 rue des Canettes (6th), 01.43.54.62.15. Mº Mabillon fAuré le pAGe - 21 rue Cambon (1st), 09.82.50.92.30. Mº Madeleine hedGren - 49 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.36.36.97. Mº Madeleine GoyArd - 233 rue St. Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.57.04. Mº Tuileries herMÈs - 24 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th), 01.40.17.47.17. Mº Concorde kiplinG – 4 rue de Sèvres (6th), 01.45.44.77.67. Mº Sèvres-Babylone

lAncel - 127 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.56.89.15.70. Mº George V lonGchAMp - 404 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.43.16.00.16. Mº Concorde louis vuitton - 101 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.53.57.52.00. Mº George V MoynAt- 348 rue St. Honoré (1st), 01.47.03.83.90. Mº Tuileries pinel & pinel - 22 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.58.39. Mº Madeleine prAdA - 10 ave Montaigne (8 ), 01.53.23.99.40. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt th

vertu 18 rue Royale (8th) Mº Madeleine ❘ www.vertu.com

tuMi - 245 rue St Honoré (1st), 01.45.79.70.30. Mº Concorde

Multi-BrAnd Boutiques by MArie - 8 ave George V (8th), 01.53.23.88.00. Mº George V citAdiuM - 56 rue de Caumartin (9th), 01.55.31.74.00. Mº Havre-Caumartin colette - 213 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.55.35.33.90. Mº Tuileries GAb&Jo - 28 rue Jacob (6th), 09.84.53.58.43. Mº St-Germain-des-Prés l’eclAireur - 26 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.12.32. Mº George V Merci - 111 blvd Beaumarchais (3th), 01.42.77.00.33. Mº Saint Sébastien-Froissard MontAiGne MArket - 57 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.42.56.58.58. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

GoyArd 233 rue St. Honoré (1st) Mº Tuileries ❘ www.goyard.com

shoes Ann tuil - 63 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.42.25.67.31. Mº George V A.testoni - 15 rue Royale (8th), 01.44.60.09.90. Mº Concorde berluti - 26 rue Marbeuf (8th), 01.53.93.97.97.Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt christiAn louboutin - 68 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.68.37.65. Mº Madeleine crockett & Jones – 14 rue ChauveauLagarde (8th), 01.44.94.01.74. Mº Madeleine derville – Passage des 2 Pavillons (1st), 01.42.96.82.27. Mº Pyramides JiMMy choo –34 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.23.03.39. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt J.M. weston – 114 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.26.47. Mº George V Mephisto shop - 12 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01.40.15.00.50. Mº Pyramides

bucherer 12 blvd des Capucines (9th) Mº Opéra ❘ www.bucherer.com

pArAboot - 304 rue St Honoré (1st), 01.44.50.52.67. Mº Tuileries repetto - 22 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.44.71.83.12. Mº Opéra tod’s - 21 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.16.16. Mº Concorde

VintAge bye buy - 4 rue des Gravilliers (3th), 06.63.13.06.30. Mº Arts et Métiers dépÔt vente du 17ÈMe - 109 rue de Courcelles, 75017, 09.81.82.00.66. Mº Saint-Paul didier ludot - 20 & 24 Galerie de Montpensier (1st), 01.42.96.06.56. Mº Pyramides l’ibis rouGe - 35 blvd Raspail (7th), 01.45.48.98.21. Mº Sèvres-Babylone renAissAnce - 14 rue de Beaune (7th), 06.85.43.03.52. Mº rue du Bac

Ann tuil 3 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th) Mº George V ❘ www.anntuil.com

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W H E R E PA R I S

Dallying with Dali A fun, colourful, at times whimsical show is being played out at the Espace Dali in the heart of Montmartre, which would most likely have delighted the master of Surrealism himself. The group show brings together some 20 street artists including Speedy Graphito, Codex Urbanus and Kool Koor who were invited for an imaginary rendezvous with Salvador Dali. There are piggy banks disguised as elephants by Nowart, a highly ornamental portrait of an ocelot and an intriguing insect-like animal fantasy creature from Hadrien Durand-Baïssas, charging surreal elephants by Jérôme Mesnager and even a “selfie”, albeit a painted one, from Codex Urbanus. Rotating works by special guest artists, among them Basquiat, Banksy and Keith Haring, a wall fresco on the rue Poulbot and workshops for young and old alike are all on the agenda. – Patricia Valicenti 1 rue Poulbot (18th), 01 42 64 40 10

PHOTO © ESPACE DALI – ARNAUD RABIER NOWART - DALI FAIT LE MUR. PHOTOGRAPHIE : ROBERT DESCHARNES © DESCHARNES & DESCHARNES SARL 2014

ARTS & ATTRACTIONS

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The Harvest The vineyard of Montmartre is one of those nice Parisian surprises tucked away on top of a hillside. The annual wine harvest festival of Montmartre, being held for the 81st time this year, begins on October 8th running through to October 12th. This year’s theme is poetry and a host of activities ranging from a ball, a rally, fireworks, tastings and discovering the vineyard are open to all. The apartments of the great French poets Boris Vian and Jacques Prévert will also be opened to the public. And for the very first time this year the Clos Montmartre wine will be a rosé. The vineyard is located on the rue des Saules across from the Lapin Agile cabaret. – P.V. THE CLOS MONTMARTRE ROSÉ PHOTO © MAIRIE 18IÈME; MAX ERNST, LA CARMAGNOLE, 1927 PHOTO COURTESY OF GALERIE GRADIVA; BOX FROM THE LOUIS XIV ERA IN BOULLE MARQUETRY IN TORTOISE SHELL, BRASS AND DYED HORN PHOTO COURTESY OF GALERIE MONIN

PHOTO © ESPACE DALI – ARNAUD RABIER NOWART - DALI FAIT LE MUR. PHOTOGRAPHIE : ROBERT DESCHARNES © DESCHARNES & DESCHARNES SARL 2014

[ A R T S & AT T R A C T I O N S ]

Syndicat d’Initiative de Montmartre 21 Place du Tertre (18th), 01 42 62 21 21

Gravitating to Gradiva A sweeping double staircase takes the visitor up to the first floor where five spacious rooms succeed one another in one of the most beautiful mansions in Paris overlooking the Seine and the Louvre. As Paris heads into the art-filled month of October, the city continues to infuse and renew itself with art and culture. For this prestigious setting is home to one of the city’s newest art galleries, the Galerie Gradiva, devoted to Impressionist, Modern and Post War art while also placing the spotlight on old and rare books. International art specialist Thomas Bompard left Sotheby’s where he headed up the department of Impressionist and Modern Art to devote himself to the gallery, which he envisages as a place to come close to culture in. The revolving works on display include museum-quality pieces, not all of which are for sale, of the house’s specialities, while African art and photography are also highlighted. The beautiful mansion historically housed the Galerie Camoin Demachy, which was one of the finest antique galleries in Paris. – P.V. 9 quai Voltaire (7th), 01 42 61 82 06

Very Versailles

The splendour of Versailles can be explored right in Paris this month as the Left Bank gallery of Anne-Marie Monin presents an exhibition entitled Louis XIV and Versailles, the Story of a Myth, which pays tribute to the Sun King and the influence he had on Versailles and the arts in France. During his reign the decorative arts also blossomed for the visionary monarch surrounded himself with leading artists in the field like the painter and decorator Le Brun, the architect Le Vau, the gardener Le Nôtre and the great cabinet maker Boulle. The rare objects and artworks on display in the Galerie Monin, located in the mansion that was the last residence of Voltaire, reflect this prodigious period. Of note are the 18th century wall clock designed by Charles Cressent for Samuel Bernard, Louis XIV’s banker and an exquisitely executed small chest with Boulle marquetry. – P.V. Through Oct 24th 27 quai Voltaire (7th), 01 49 26 90 40

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W h e r e pa r i s [ A r t s & At t r A c t i o n s ]

Art upon emergence PaT r i C i a V a L i C E N T i

The venue offers an opportunity for art dealers and collectors to intermingle, but to also offer an opportunity for the public at large to discover fine art galleries and to engage with a full range of art works in diverse mediums. The AD Galerie is presenting a selection of colourful works dedicated to Free Figuration and Narrative Figuration. The Galerie des Modernes is featuring artists from the major art movements from the fifties onwards showcasing works by Bernard Buffet and Matta. The Galerie Philippe Samuel is offering works dedicated to the art of the 20th century with a selection of the avantgarde of the early 20th century to the abstracts of the 1950s, contemporary works and art from emerging artists. The Galerie Lélia Mordoch presents contemporary artists working in diverse mediums while the Galerie Hurtebize is focusing on the second

Paris school, lyrical abstraction and the French figurative masters. Australian Aboriginal art is the highlight from the Aborigène Galerie and the gallery is presenting artists from five aboriginal communities that have been rarely or never shown before. The Galerie Lacan is presenting a colourful stand featuring aqua prints by Peter Klasen while the Galerie Minsky is honouring the painter Henri-Jean Closon, a pioneer of the Belgian Abstract movement who is known for his vibrant colourful compositions. The galleries are chosen by a committee presided over by Baudoin Lebon, gallery owner and key figure on the Parisian art scene. “We ask that the galleries come and be what they are, to show what they would normally show,” said Mr. Lebon. Each year Art Elysées hosts an exhibition within the pavilions and this

year’s, presented in conjunction with the Centre d’Art Contemporain Frank Popper, invites visitors to discover geometric abstraction and lumino kinetic art showcasing the work of the Venezuelan artist, Carlos Cruz-Diez, a major figure in op art. The visitor can enjoy an authentic chromo saturation experience roaming through an artificial habitat with three rooms, each in a single colour, red, green and blue. And for the fifth time Design Elysées, featuring qualitative 20th century furnishings and design objects by internationally renowned designers, will settle into the third pavilion across from the Grand Palais. Oct 23-27 11am-8pm, until 6pm on the 27th Avenue des Champs-Elysées from the Place de la Concorde to the Grand Palais

Jean Dubuffet, Mire G72 (bolero), 1983 photo Courtesy of Galerie Messine

A festive world of modern and contemporary art and 20th century design unfolds in late October in Paris as three ephemeral pavilions emerge on the Champs-Elysées. The autumn art fair, Art Elysées and Design Elysées, brings together nearly 70 galleries presenting a large panorama of modern and contemporary art as well as 20th century design.

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LibertŽ s, ƒ galitŽ s, fraternitŽ s Brazil • Stencil, spray paint and acrylic on canvas • 154 x 111 cm • 60.6 x 43.7 in.

October 17 th- November 8 th 2014

www.operagallery.com PA R I S . M O N A C O . L O N D O N . G E N E V A . N E W Y O R K . B A L H A R B O U R . S I N G A P O R E . H O N G K O N G . S E O U L . D U B A I

356, rue Saint-Honoré 75001 Paris. T +33 (0)1 42 96 39 00 paris@operagaller y.com Mon. - Sat. 10 am - 7 pm

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/ I TM Z Q M < I U u V I O I

W H E R E PA R I S [ A R T S & AT T R A C T I O N S ]

IMPRESSIONIST, MODERN & CONTEMPORARY ART

GALLERIES

Art Elysées & Design Elysées (Stand 208B) October 23-27

BERNARD BuFFET Florence, le Campanile de Giotto / Oil on canvas 130 x 97 cm

MODERN MASTERS: Cézanne, Renoir, Redon, Rouault, Van Dongen, Dufy, Kisling, Picasso, Gris, Klee, Chagall, Bonnard, Buffet, Soutine CONTEMPORARY ARTISTS: Aïzpiri, Bardone, Cottavoz, Christopher, Cassigneul, Chen, Fusaro, Fernandez, Takehiko Sugawara, Tchinai, Sano 18 avenue Matignon - Paris 8th Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt Tel: 01 42 66 61 94 / www.tamenaga.com

GALERIE BERNHEIM-JEUNE

GALERIE MARIAN GOODMAN

The Bernheims organised Van Gogh’s first Paris

The Paris branch of the renowned New York

exhibit and also presented Cézanne, Matisse and

gallery. Artists include John Baldessari, Christian

others. Now run by descendants of the founder,

Boltanski. Giuseppe Penone, Gerhard Richter, Jeff

the gallery exhibits contemporary artists and

Wall. Tues-Sat 11am-7pm.

publishes art books. Tue-Sat 10:30am-12:30pm &

www.mariangoodman.com.

2:30pm-6:30pm. www.bernheim-jeune.com.

79 rue du Temple (3rd), 01.48.04.70.52.

83 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (8th),

M° Rambuteau

01.42.66.60.31. M° Miromesnil

GALERIE NATHALIE OBADIA

GALERIE DANIEL TEMPLON

This contemporary gallery features fine,

A contemporary gallery featuring established

collectable works by both established and

and up-and-coming artists. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm.

up-and-coming artists. Mon-Sat 11am-7pm.

www.danieltemplon.com.

www.galerie-obadia.com.

30 rue Beaubourg (3rd), 01.42.72.14.10.

3 rue du Cloître Saint-Merri (4th),

M° Rambuteau

GALERIE DE JONCKHEERE Museum-quality 16th and 17th-century Flemish paintings, including works by the Breughels and Cranach the Elder. Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm. www.dejonckheere.fr. 100 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (8th),

Olwen Forest JEWELLERY of ThE STaRS

01.42.66.69.49. M° Miromesnil

01.42.74.67.68. M° Hôtel de VIlle

GALERIE POLAD-HARDOUIN This contemporary art gallery nestled in the heart of the Marais offers a spacious setting for over 30 artists, both established and emerging. Works with strong pictorial choices are featured here. The gallery remains faithful to the New Figuration movement. Conferences animated by

GALERIE LELONG

specialists are organised throughout the year.

This quintessential Parisian gallery features the

Tues-Sat 11am-7pm. www.polad-hardouin.com.

works of leading contemporary artists.

86 rue Quincampoix (3rd), 01.42.71.05.29.

Tues-Fri 10:30am-6pm. Sat 2pm-6:30pm.

M° Rambuteau

www.galerie-lelong.com. 13 rue de Téhéran (8th), 01.45.63.13.19. M° Miromesnil

GALERIE MAEGHT This landmark Parisian gallery opened in 1946 and presents exhibitions of leading modern and contemporary artists. There is also a superb bookstore carrying art books, fine art posters and lithographs. Mon 10am-6pm.

The Galerie Polad-Hardouin

Tues-Sat 9:30am-7pm. www.maeght.com. M° Rue du Bac

Olwen Forest invites you to see her collection of vintage artist jewellery worn yesterday, and sought after today by famous stars and celebrities. Coco Chanel, Schiaparelli, Joseff of Hollywood A display of fun and trendy 1930’s cocktail accessories complete the show.

GALERIE RUSSKIY MIR This well-appointed gallery features works by

GALERIE MALINGUE

contemporary Russian artists including Anatoly

This prestigious gallery has been welcoming

Poutilline, Masha Schmidt, Marina Nikolaeva,

discerning art collectors for over three decades.

Andrei Tyrtyshnikov and Vladimir Sichov.

With three lofty exhibition rooms, it proffers a

7 rue Miromesnil (8th), 01.44.71.07.41.

journey into the Modern Art adventure. Renoir,

M° Miromesnil

Cézanne, Picasso, Dali, Miró are all found in this

GALERIE SCHMIT

fine and sublime house of art.

Three generations of art experts present

Tues-Fri 10:30am-12:30pm & 2:30pm-6:30pm,

museum quality paintings by 19th and 20th

Marché Serpette - allée 3, stand 5/7 110 rue des rosiers, 93400 St-Ouen (Metro: porte de clignancourt)

Mon (and Sat only during exhibitions)

century French masters. Covering periods from

2:30pm-6:30pm.

the impressionists, the fauves, the Cubists and

Open : Saturday, Sunday, Monday

www.malingue.net.

others. Mon-Fri, 10am-12:30pm/2pm-6pm.

26 ave Matignon (8th), 01.42.66.60.33.

396 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.36.36.

M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

M° Concorde

Tel: 01 40 11 96 38

www.olwenforest.com

PHOTO © PATRICE BOUVIER COURTESY GALERIE POLAD-HARDOUIN

42 rue du Bac (7th), 01.45.48.45.15.

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Unique dolls and art works created to immunize children in Darfur.

Théâtre du Châtelet :

EXHIBITION from November18th to 23rd, 2014

AUCTION SALE By ARTCURIAL

on Monday, November 24th, 2014

www.frimoussesdecreateurs.fr

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Théâtre du Châtelet -1, place du Châtelet -75001 Paris

08/09/2014 14:35

ushering in at the FIAC

B Y PaT r i C i a V a L i C E N T i

utumn has traditionally been the season when the French capital unveils great art and one of the stars of the show is the 41st FIAC (International Contemporary Art Fair). The show brings together beneath the glass cupola of the Grand Palais some 191 galleries from 26 countries. The Tuileries Gardens traditionally welcomes outdoor projects of installations and sculptures and this year’s rich selection includes works by Georg Baselitz, Christian Boltanski, Niki de Saint Phalle and César. An itinerary wends through the Jardin des Plantes, the Botanical Gardens of Paris, with works also exhibited in

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emblematic spaces of the Museum of Natural History. Other venues include the Place Vendôme and the Berges de Seine. This year the FIAC is launching a new event (OFF)ICIELLE at the Docks - Cité de la Mode et du Design which is scenically located right on the Seine. The venue will welcome from 13 countries some 60 galleries, which focus on contemporary art, emerging talents and the re-discovery of artists who were rarely or never presented on an international level. Two galleries, Ritsch-Fisch from Strasbourg and Christian Berst of Paris and New York will be presenting outsider art while the Parisian gallery of André Magnin will be showing contemporary African art. Batobus shuttle boats, free for FIAC or (OFF)ICIELLE ticket holders, will run between the landing at Alexandre III and the landing at the Docks inaugurated for the launch of (OFF)ICIELLE. This year’s show is featuring a strong and enriched programme including performances and projections. The Ouvertures/Openings performances, conceived and created in conjunction with the Louvre will be joined this year by the In Process cycle dedicated to young creators. With the participation of the Fondation d’Entreprise Ricard, Cinéphémère, in a specially conceived 14-seat movie theatre in the Tuileries, will be projecting a cycle of artist’s films. Galeries Lafayette, the FIAC’s official partner, will host a space of 10 galleries

featuring emerging talents from six countries. Some of the galleries in the Grand Palais are presenting themed exhibitions, of note Georges Mathieu at Applicat-Prazan, Jon Pestoni at David Kordansky and Lucie Stahl at Neue Alte Brücke. Awards are on the agenda as well with the Prix Marcel Duchamp to be announced on October 25th and the works by the four finalists are on exhibit at the Grand Palais during the FIAC. And for the seventh consecutive year, the Le Meurice Hotel, which faces the Tuileries, is presenting the Prix Meurice for contemporary art on October 9th, while hosting an exhibition devoted to the works of the six finalists at the hotel from October 10th to October 26th. Grand Palais Oct 23-26 12-8pm, until 9pm on the 24th Les Docks – Cité de la Mode et du Design Oct 22-26 1pm-8pm, until 9pm on the 24th 34 quai d’Austerlitz (13th)

(zitatenbild) hier Wohne ich, MiriaM cahn, 2012. Meyer riegger. represented by Meyer riegger; cargo, Jon pestoni, 2013 courtesy of david KordansKy gallery, los angeles, ca. represented by david KordansKy; fontaine aux nanas (fond bleu), niKi de saint phalle, 1991 courtesy ncaf et galerie gp & n vallois, paris. represented by georges-philippe & nathalie vallois

W h e r e pa r i s

12/09/2014 12:53

MONUMENTS

restitué, looks at the history of Paris through the vestiges from Lutèce to the 19th century (in the crypt). www.crypte.paris.fr. Experience Quasimodo’s view of Paris from the towers JulAug 10am-5:45pm weekdays, 10am-10:15pm Sat-Sun; Apr-Jun and Sep: 10am-5:45pm; Oct-Mar: 10am-4:45pm. 7.50€. 6 Parvis Notre- Dame (4th), 01.42.34.56.10. M° Cité

PALAIS GARNIER– OPERA DE PARIS Designed by architect Charles Garnier, and a brilliant example of Second Empire architecture. Daily visits on your own,10 am-4:30 pm (adults 10€, students and under 25, free) information: 08 92 89 90 90. Guided tours in English daily at 11:30am and 2:30pm Jul-Aug and school holidays; rest of year Wed, Sat and Sun, same times (14€). Daily 10am-5pm, 10€. For additional information on guided tours call 08.25.05.44.05. Place de l’Opéra (9th). M° Opéra

PALAIS ROYAL Its superb gardens offers a wonderful spot for strolling while the elegant and eclectic shops in the galleries that border the gardens are worth exploring. Some former famous

Palais Garnier Opéra de Paris

residents of the apartments around the gardens include Colette and Jean Cocteau. The gardens and shops can be reached by the streets leading to the buildings.

ARC DE TRIOMPHE

under the golden cupola of the Eglise du

The triumphal arch commissioned by

Dome. The historic monument houses an

Napoleon and finished in 1836 stands in the

interesting military museum. Through Oct

centre of the Place Charles de Gaulle and

12 Les Invalides dans la Grande Guerre, this

PLACE DES VOSGES

boasts a fabulous view of the Champs-Elysées

photo exhibition takes a look at the role

One of the oldest squares in the French capital,

and includes the tomb of the Unknown Soldier.

the institution played in World War I. Daily

this beautiful architectural ensemble is a

10am-6pm, last tickets 30 minutes before

historic monument. A lovely green space is

closing. 9.50€. www.invalides.org.

surrounded by red brick buildings with blue

Place des Invalides, 129 rue de Grenelle

slate roofs. Shops, galleries and delightful cafés

(7th), 01.44.42.38.77. M° Invalides

and boutiques line the sides of the square.

Open daily 10am-10:30pm, times may vary, last admission 45 minutes before closing, Adults 9.50€, Children under 18 and EU citizens under 26: Free. Place Charles de Gaulle (8th), 01.55.37.73.77. M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile

EIFFEL TOWER Built as a temporary exhibit for the 1889 World’s Fair, the iron structure now symbolises Paris the world over. The tower sparkles with twinkling lights every hour on the hour from twilight to 2am. From Jun 15 through Sept 1 9am-12:45am (stairs and lifts). From Sept 2

1991 COURTESY NCAF ET GALERIE GP & N VALLOIS, PARIS. REPRESENTED BY GEORGES-PHILIPPE & NATHALIE VALLOIS

[ A R T S & AT T R A C T I O N S ]

MONTPARNASSE TOWER TOP OF PARIS Enjoy an exceptional panoramic visit of Paris from the Montparnasse Tower. Europe’s fastest elevator will take you to the top in 38 seconds to enjoy spectacular day or night views of Paris from 196 metres high in the sky. Interactive exhibitions, a glass enclosed terrace, a gourmet café and gift shop are all part of the

Palais Royal (1st). M° Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre

Place des Vosges (4th). M° Chemin Vert

SACRE COEUR DE MONTMARTRE Located on the highest peak of Paris, the view from the Sacré Coeur is breathtaking. There is a guesthouse for pilgrims providing accommodation and meals. Daily 6am-10:30pm; Dome and crypt 9am-5:45pm. www.sacre-coeur-montmartre.fr. 35 rue du Chevalier-de-la-Barre (18th),

through Jun 14 lift open daily 9:30am-11:45pm,

experience. Daily, winter 9:30am-10:30pm,

Stairs open daily 9:30am-6:30pm. Last entries

summer 9:30am-11:30pm, last lift, half an hour

45 minutes before closing. Entry fee (5-15€

before closing.

SAINTE CHAPELLE

for adults) depends on how high you go. A

www.tourmontparnasse56.com.

A jewel-like chapel on the Ile de la Cité in the

champagne bar is on the top of the tower,

Rue de l’Arrivée (15th), 01.45.38.52.56.

courtyard of the Palais de Justice with High

open from noon to 10pm.

M° Montparnasse-Bienvenue

Gothic stained glass windows, at its finest on

NOTRE-DAME CATHEDRAL

9:30am-6pm, last tickets 30 minutes before

Constructed between 1163 and 1345, it is

closing time, times may vary. 8.50€. Free for

HOTEL DES INVALIDES

a Gothic masterpiece. Free guided tours

children under 18 and EU citizens under 26.

Built by Louis XIV as a hospital for veteran

in English Wed and Thurs at 2pm & Sat at

2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01.53.40.60.97.

soldiers. Napoleon’s impressive tomb lies

2:30pm. Through Dec 31 Paris disparu, Paris

M° Cité

Ave Gustave Eiffel (7th), 01.44.11.23.23. M° Trocadéro

01.53.41.89.09. M° Anvers

days when there isn’t a cloud in the sky. Daily

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W H E R E PA R I S

ATTRACTIONS

The view of the big greenhouse at the Parc Zoologique de Paris this haunted manor house and listed historic

Discover the world of the sea at this delightful

monument. An interactive exhibition space

aquarium. Species from Guyana to the Seine,

invites visitors to live the legends of Paris from

the Mediterranean Sea to the North Sea can

the Vampire Theatre to the phantom of the

be found swimming within. Sharks, clownfish,

opera. Fri 6pm-10pm & Sat, Sun 3pm-7pm.

seahorses and eels are among the residents

adults, 25€, under 16, 18.50€. Please consult

here. Visitors can also enjoy films, educational

the web site for additional opening times.

activities and workshops. Daily 10am-7pm, first

www.lemanoirdeparis.fr.

Sat of the month until 10pm, last tickets one

18 rue de Paradis, (10th).

hour before closing, adults: 20.50€,

M° Château d’Eau

children 13-17: 16€, 3-12: 13€. www.cineaqua.com. 5 ave Albert de Mun (16th), 01.40.69.23.23. M° Iéna

Double-decker tour boats offer fine vistas of the capital. Savoury lunch and dinner cruises offering classic French cuisine may also be booked. Cruise only: 13.50€ adults, 5.50€ children under 12. Departures every 20 min from 10:15am-10:30pm. www.bateaux-mouches.fr.

This beautiful zoo presents in 16 natural

Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10.

environments some 1000 animals, birds,

M° Alma-Marceau

mammals, reptiles, amphibians and fish, representing 180 species. It is a highly

Open 365 days a year, Disneyland Park

diversified collection ranging from predators

surrounds you with all your favourite

to colourful birds and a host of frog and lizard

characters and the latest attractions.

species. www.parczoologiquedeparis.fr.

From Oct 1 through Nov 2 Halloween, special

Entrance located at the corner of the ave

parades, pumpkins and ghosts are all part

Daumesnil and the Route de Ceinture du lac

of the fun. Walt Disney Studios Park offers 4

Daumesnil (12th), 01.40.79.31.25.

cinema lots and attractions with a cinematic

M° Château de Vincennes then 46 bus to zoo

light at nightfall at Sleeping Beauty’s castle.

BATEAUX-MOUCHES

PARC ZOOLOGIQUE DE PARIS

DISNEYLAND RESORT PARIS

theme. Disney Dreams! is a magical show of

BOAT CRUISES

LA MARINA DE PARIS Enjoy a savoury meal while cruising on the Seine. Lunch cruises at 12:15 pm, Dinner cruises at 6:30pm & 9:00pm. Menus start at 37€ for lunch, 59€ for dinner, children’s menus available. www.marina-de-paris.com. Port de Solférino (7th), 01.43.43.40.30. M° Solferino

THE TUILERIES GARDEN —This vast park filled with peaceful wide alleyways for strolling and

YACHTS DE PARIS

an octagonal water basin offers a place for a

Private cruises, parties, receptions. Gourmet

promenade between the Pyramide du Louvre

dinner cruises nightly boarding at 7:45pm

and the Place de la Concorde. Sculptures by

featuring the gastronomic cuisine of

Maillol, Rodin, Dubuffet and Louise Bourgeois

chef Guy Krenzer, who was awarded the

are among the jewels set in these refreshing

prestigious finest craftsman of France title.

gardens.

www.yachtsdeparis.fr.

LE MANOIR DE PARIS

Jardin des Tuileries (1st).

Port Henri IV (4th), 01.44.54.14.70.

The urban legends of Paris come to life in

M° Concorde

M° Pont de Sully

Daily 10am-7pm. Check website for opening hours on day of visit. One park: adults 62€, children 56€ (3-11yrs); combined ticket: adults 74€, children 66€. www.disneylandparis.com. RER A to Marne La Vallée/Chessy (40-65 min)

MANATEE POOL WITH WATERFALL PHOTO © F.G. GRANDIN-MNHN

AQUARIUM DE PARIS (CINEAQUA)

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[ A R T S & AT T R A C T I O N S ]

TRADE SHOWS & ART FAIRS AUTOMEDON Oct 18-19 9am-7pm. The mythical rendezvous for motorcycle and car collectors is featuring motorcycles, vintage cars and sports cars. Clubs and associations are also present. www.automedon.fr. Parc des Expositions du Bourget, Le Bourget. Metro line 7 to Courneuve 8 mai 1945 then RATP show shuttle bus or RATP bus 152 to Michelet Parc des Expostions

CHAMBRES A PART Oct 20-26. This year’s show is being held in the spacious rooms of the Salons France-Amériques located in a splendid 18th century manor house. Visitors can admire paintings and sculptures. By appointment only at chambresapart@laurencedreyfus.com. www.laurencedreyfus.com. 9 ave Franklin Roosevelt. M° Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau

FOIRE D’AUTOMNE From Oct 24-Nov 2 from 10am-7pm. There is

setting. www.foiredechatou.com.

SALON DU CHOCOLAT

something for everyone at this leading autumn

Ile des Impressionnistes, Chatou.

Oct 29-Nov 2 10am to 7pm. A heavenly show

rendezvous. Home décor and improvement,

RER A to Rueil-Malmaison, then free shuttle

where chocolate is the guest of honour.

cuisine, well-being and leisure are all on the

to the fair

Exhibitions, workshops, tastings and a fashion

agenda. www.foiredautomne.fr. Paris Expo blvd Victor, Porte de Versailles

KIDEXPO

(15th). M° Porte de Versailles Tramway: Line

Oct 23-27 10am-6pm. Here you will find ideas

T3, Porte de Versailles

and solutions for parents, workshops for kids and villages devoted to science, education, health,

show are on the programme. This year the event is celebrating its 20th birthday. www.salonduchocolat.fr. Paris Expo blvd Victor, Porte de Versailles, (15th). M° Porte de Versailles Tramway: Line

FOIRE DE CHATOU

taste, the environment and parents.

Through Oct 5 10am-7pm. This show, held

Paris Expo Porte de Versailles, Halls 6 & 8,

twice a year, draws some 800 merchants from

(15th). M° Porte de Versailles or Tramway Line

all over France displaying antiques and bric-a-

SALON DU LIVRE ET PAPIERS ANCIENS

T3, Porte de Versailles

Oct 24-Nov 2 from 11am-7pm. This mythical

MONDIAL DE L’AUTOMOBILE

event brings together some 200 exhibitors

Oct 4-19 10am-8pm, until 10pm on the 9th, 10th,

offering a multitude of documents ranging from

16th and 17th. This is the car show for all that is

postcards, engravings, stamps, manuscripts,

new and innovative in the world of automobiles.

posters, printed and engraved papers, collector’s

Hundreds of brands from all over the world will

items, and more. This year’s theme is women

reveal their latest models and innovations. www.

during the First World War.

mondial-automobile.com.

www.joel-garcia-organisation.fr.

Paris Expo blvd Victor, Porte de Versailles

Paris-Espace Champerret, Place de la Porte de

(15th). M° Porte de Versailles Tramway: Line

Champerret (17th).

brac reflecting regional traditions, crafts and

MANATEE POOL WITH WATERFALL PHOTO © F.G. GRANDIN-MNHN

gastronomy spread out over a miniature village

T3, Porte de Versailles

OUTSIDER ART FAIR Oct 24-26 11am-8pm, from noon-6pm on the 26th. This show brings together the finest in outsider art and raw art from some 20 leading galleries around the world specialised in art by people who are outside of mainstream art

T3, Porte de Versailles

M° Porte de Champerret

SALON LES MONTRES Oct 9-11 11am-7pm, from 10:30am-6:30pm on the 11th. This prestigious show brings together 15 major houses and offers the opportunity to discover fine watches. A watch workshop

production. American folk art and works by

operated by the master watchmakers of Jaeger-

African and Japanese artists are all part of the

LeCoultre is on the premises and visitors can also

unique presentation in a hotel.

enrol for a free lesson.

Hôtel Le A, 4 rue d’Artois (8th).

4 place St-Germain-des-Prés (6th).

M° St-Philippe-du-Roule

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W H E R E PA R I S

DINING

VILLA SPICY

Designed like a Mediterranean villa, complete with terracotta walls, blue window shutters and “balcony” ledges peering into a private dining room, Villa Spicy is a wonderful restaurant to enjoy a getaway to the South of France without leaving the French capital. The new arrival of chef Fréderic Morel sees the menu take a culinary voyage to Asia for spices that bring the traditional French dishes to life with a twist. Try his lemongrass and ginger lacquered cod served with roasted fennel and an emulsion of horseradish, or try the seared prawns served with crispy, coriander-flavoured basmati rice. His desserts are also inspired by his passion for Asian cuisine and its spices. On the sweet, yet spicy, dessert menu you will find a strawberry cappuccino delicately flavoured with wasabi and served with pistachio ice-cream. Morel changes the menu regularly but his passion for Asian spices always finds its way to his dishes. - S.I. 8 ave Franklin D. Roosevelt (8th), 01 56 59 62 59 58 W H E R E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2014

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[Dining]

ViLLA SPiCy PhoTo © BRiCE ohAyon WEBPoPuLATion; LE PETiT PERgoLESE PhoTo © DAViDELEggio; MuSEE jACquEMART AnDRE PhoTo © jEAn gRiSoni

Le Petit Pergolèse In the 16th arrondissement, off the very chic Avenue Foch is the charming Le Petit Pergolèse restaurant where food and art work together to create a convivial ambiance to enjoy both contemporary French fare and modern art. Owner Albert Corre is present every day, welcoming his regulars and foreign diners as they step into the colourful space adorned with artwork that he changes on a regular basis, in turn changing the décor of the restaurant with every artwork change he makes. Replacing a Jeff Koons sculpture with a David LaChapelle photo depends all on Monsieur Corre’s mood and the menu here features dishes that are just as carefully chosen as the artwork. Try the sea bass served with a potato puree flavoured with Charles Aznavour olive oil or try the lobster salad flavoured with a truffle vinaigrette. For dessert the classic Grand Marnier soufflé awaits and the house’s famous vanilla crème brûlée. - S.I. open monday to friday 38 rue Pergolèse (16th), 01 45 00 23 66

Sunday Brunch Paris is known for its culinary prowess, with many visitors to the city indulging in its fine food. And while on holiday there is nothing more fabulous than enjoying great food and still being lazy and that’s what makes enjoying a relaxing Sunday brunch in the French capital that much more luxurious. Overlooking the private garden of Musée JacquemartAndré is the museum’s café, which is beautifully found in the mansion’s former dining room. The Café Jacquemart-André is a charming tea room where every Saturday and Sunday you can enjoy brunch from 11am to 3pm. A generous bread and pastry basket, eggs, salad and fresh salmon make up the hearty meal, which deliciously ends with a pastry of your choice from the dessert trolley. - S.I. Access is independent of the museum 158 blvd Haussmann (8th), 01 45 62 11 59

The Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. GENERAL iNfoRmAtioN Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. Value Added Tax (VAT, written in French as TVA) is automatically included in the bill, as is the service charge. While tipping is not compulsory, it is appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. iNdEx to AbbREviAtioNs B, L & D: Breakfast, lunch & dinner. AE: American Express, V: Visa, MC: Mastercard PRiCEs Set Meals: Prices are per person. A la carte: Price per person for three courses without wine. € – 30€ or less per person €€ – 31€-50€ per person €€€ – 51€-100€ per person €€€€ – 101€-150€ per person €€€€€ – 151€ and above per person w w w.wheretr aveler.c o m 59

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W h e r e pa r i s

FINE DINING

L'Abeille 114 FAUBOURG Brasserie An elegant one-star establishment in the Bristol Hotel proffers superb cooking from three-star chef Eric Frechon in a delightful duplex space. Delicious offerings include a rotisserie-roasted chicken and for dessert a vanilla millefeuille with a salty caramel sauce. Daily L & D. €€€ (cards: all) 114 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th),01.53.43.44.44. M° Miromesnil L’ABEILLE Gourmet This two-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel offers a sophisticated menu of French gastronomic cuisine. In the elegant dining area enjoy dishes such as royal scampi steamed with lemon cream and flavoured with walnut oil and roasted coffee. Tues-Sat, D. €€€€€ (cards: all). 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.90. M° Iéna APICIUS Contemporary The one-star restaurant of chef Jean-Pierre Vigato, offering a mix of (very expensive) modern and country cooking: lobster ravioli, potato charlotte with caviar. Mon-Fri L&D. €€€€ (Cards: all) 20 rue d’Artois (8th), 01.43.80.19.66. Mº St-Philippe-du-Roule IL CARPACCIO Italian The one-star Italian restaurant of the Royal Monceau hotel serves up family dishes from all over Italy. The atmosphere is cosy and the recipes are simple, made with fresh produce while desserts are created by Pierre Hermé. Tues-Sat L&D. €€€€ (cards: all). www.leroyalmonceau.com. 37 ave Hoche (8th), 01.42.99.98.80. M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile LE CINQ Gourmet Chef Eric Briffard offers wonderful dishes like purple sea urchin in creamy fennel broth. Superbly aged cheeses and delectable desserts, like the Peruvian chocolate stuffed tart, follow. Serious wine list, and fantastic flowers by

American florist Jeff Leatham. Daily L&D. €€€€€ (Cards: all) Four Seasons Hôtel George V, 31 ave George V (8th), 01.49.52.70.00. Mº George V LE DIANE Gourmet This Michelin one-star restaurant inside the Fouquet’s Barrière Hotel offers a peaceful setting and a secluded terrace. Chef JeanYves Leuranguer has conceived a range of colourful gourmet dishes which might include oysters served with quail eggs and cavair and a mandarin soufflé. Fine and rare vintage wines are found on the wine list. Daily B,L,D, Sat B&D only. Sun-Mon B only. €€€€ (AE, MC, V) 46 ave George V (8th), 01.40.69.60.40. M° George V EPICURE Gourmet The beautiful dining room looks out over the hotel’s French garden and is a perfect setting for three-star chef Eric Fréchon’s remarkable cuisine and superb desserts by pastry chef Laurent Jeannin. Daily L&D. €€€€€ (Cards: all) Hôtel Le Bristol, 112 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. Mº Miromesnil

€€€€ (AE, Diners, MC, V). 41 ave Gabriel (8th), 01.42.25.00.39. M° Champs-Elysées Clemenceau RELAIS LOUIS XIII Classic French In a wood-beamed medieval townhouse, twostar chef Manuel Martinez serves delicious dishes revolving around seasonal products. Fine wine list. Tue-Sat, L&D. €€€€ (AE, MC, V) 8 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.75.96. Mº St Michel LE RESTAURANT Neo-Baroque In the legendary hotel called L’Hotel, the neoBaroque one-star restaurant is where head chef Julien Montabut prepares seasonal and classically French cuisine with a distinctive light and modern touch. Dishes include pan fried scallops with girolle mushrooms for a starter or a main course of line sea bass roasted with spices. Daily B Tue-Sat L&D. €€ (Cards: all) 13 rue des Beaux-Arts (6th), 01.44.41.99.01. Mº Odéon

HELENE DARROZE Southwestern French Young chef Hélène Darroze serves up southwestern French specialties in this contemporary one-star restaurant. €€€. The casual ground floor Salon d’Hélène serves upscale tapas. Tue-Sat L&D. €€ (AE, MC, V) 4 rue d’Assas (6th), 01.42.22.00.11. Mº Sèvres Babylone

LA SCENE Gourmet This one-star restaurant in the Prince de Galles hotel offers an authentic and generous cuisine using remarkable products. Among the appetisers are white Alba truffles or duck foie gras. For a fish course, succulent French lobster is a fine choice while meat dishes include fine milkfed veal and wild hare from the Beauce region. For dessert try the mint or vanilla-based treats. Mon-Sat B,L & D, Sun Brunch. €€€€ (cards: all). 33 ave George V (8th), 01.53.23.78.52. M° George V

LAURENT Gourmet. This gourmet 1-star Michelin restaurant serving sophisticated cuisine in a beautiful setting with a garden is a Parisian institution. The finest produce and products are used to prepare seasonal French cuisine with a contemporary touch. Signature dishes include spider crab with fennel cream and squid cannelloni. Mon-Fri L & D, Sat D only.

LE SERGENT RECRUTEUR Gourmet This one-star restaurant serves market-based cuisine that changes on a daily basis. Meats of an exceptional quality, fresh-caught fish from the Loire River, homemade butter and a blend of coffee made especially for the house are all on the agenda. Tues-Sun L&D. €€€ (AE, MC, V). 41 rue St-Louis-en-L’Isle (4th), 01.43.54.75.43. Mº Pont Marie

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[DINING]

SEAFOOD ANTOINE Exceptionally prepared fish dishes are on the agenda in this lovely establishment overlooking the Seine River. The menu changes with the seasons and the daily products available from the sea while starters might include fresh oysters or clams followed by line-caught sea bass. Fine regional products like the saffron from the Quercy and the red pepper of Espelette enhance the cuisine. Daily L& D. €€€€ (MC, V). www.antoine-paris.fr. 10 ave de New York (16th), 01 .40.70.19.28. M° Alma-Marceau LE BAR A HUITRES Antoine This is the place to go for fabulous seafood platters, finely prepared fresh fish dishes and 112 blvd Montparnasse (14th) , one of the best and most eclectic selections of 01.43.20.71.01. M° Vanvin; 69 ave Wagram oysters in the French capital. Main course dishes (17th), 01.43.80.63.54. include French sea bass, lobster from Brittany M° Ternes and filet of beef. An extensive wine list with LA COUPOLE some 150 selections and exceptional mineral This vast 1930’s landmark brasserie has been waters complement the dining experience. serving fairly good food lately, but the best bet is Valet parking. Daily,noon-midnight. €€€ (Cards: all) www.lebarahuitres.com. noon-2:30pm & still the big seafood platters. Mon-Fri 8 am-1 am, 7pm-midnight. Sat/Sun 8:30am-1:3011:46 am. €€Page1 (Cards: all) 181x132 WHERE-FEVRIER_14.qxp_Mise en page 1 17/12/2013

Seafood, a Parisian culture.

102 blvd du Montparnasse (14th), 01.43.20.14.20. M° Vavin L’EUROPEEN A modern brasserie with a Belle Epoque decor serving fresh oysters and classic dishes such as choucroute de la mer (sauerkraut and fish) and beef tenderloin with Béarnaise sauce. Daily 7:30am-1am. €€ (AE, JCB, MC, V) 21bis blvd Diderot (12th), 01.43.43.99.70. M° Gare de Lyon GARNIER Terrific seafood oriented brasserie just across from the Gare Saint Lazare. Some of the best oysters in Paris in season, and a wonderful vest-pocket oyster bar just inside the front door. Daily L&D. €€ (Cards: Visa, MC, AE) 111 rue Saint Lazare (8th), 01.43.87.50.40. M° Saint Lazare RECH This stylish seafood brasserie serves up fine fare making it one of the best places to eat fish in the capital. You might start with a salad of strips of steamed sole served with a garlic mayonnaise followed by a slow-cooked salmon with a dressing of chopped tomato and basil and a chocolate or coffee éclair for dessert. Tues-Sat L&D. €€€ (Cards: all) www.rech.fr. 62 ave des Ternes (17th), 01.45.72.29.47. M° Ternes

L’Auberge Dab Tel. 01 45 00 32 22 161, avenue Malakoff - Paris 16th Open 7 days a week from noon - 3pm and from 7pm to 2am - Valet parking available www.auberge-dab.com Congrès Maillot Tel. 01 45 74 17 24 80, avenue de la Grande Armée - Paris 17th Open 7 days a week from 7.30am - 2am Valet parking available www.congres-maillot.com

Les Grandes Marches Tel. 01 43 42 90 32 6, place de la Bastille - Paris 12th Open 7 days a week from 8am - 1am Valet parking available www.grandes-marches.com L’Européen Tel. 01 43 43 99 70 21 bis, boulevard Diderot - Paris 12th Open 7 days a week from 7.30am - 1am www.l-europeen.com

Agence-pashmina.com - Crédit photo : Francis Hammond

Congrès Auteuil Tel. 01 46 51 15 75 144, boulevard Exelmans - Paris 16th Open 7 days a week from 8am - 1am Valet parking available www.congres-auteuil.com

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W h e r e pa r i s [ D i n i n g ]

Enjoying a fancy meal while visiting

French cuisine and excellent service.

the French capital is a must for anyone

To start, the menu features king crab

looking to discover what makes Paris

eggs served with ginger and a tangy

the world’s centre of the culinary world.

lemon mayonnaise, an artichoke soup

114 Faubourg, Le Bristol Hotel’s one-

with pan-seared foie gras and a black

star restaurant, with talented chef Eric

truffle emulsion, and Desbordes’s World

Desbordes in the kitchen and overseen

Champion 2011 nominated Pâté en

by Le Bristol’s Executive Chef Eric

croûte de canard (duck paté delicately

Fréchon, is a gastronomical experience

enrobed in bread crust). Main dishes

that will leave you with the perfect

include the classic beef tartar prepared

understanding of why people from

with virgin olive oil and served with

around the world come to Paris to eat.

French fries and a salad, beef rib eye for

the Bourbon vanilla millefeuille with

The “brasserie de luxe”, which features

two served with roasted new potatoes,

salted butter caramel and the Guanaja

a wrought-iron staircase adorned with

and in honour of the Earl of Bristol, a

chocolate soufflé served with cognac-

golden leaves, and warm orange feature

legendary British traveller, the chef

flavoured ice-cream, both delicately

walls with large dahlias, the hotel

features the classic Fish & Chips. For

prepared to perfectly end your Parisian

owner’s favourite flower, which light up

dessert, pastry chef Laurent Jeannin has

dining experience. – S.I.

the space, is a great table for visitors to

created a decadent menu, giving French

114 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré

enjoy mouth-watering contemporary

classics his magically sweet touch. The

(8th), 01 53 43 44 44

restaurant’s signature desserts are

Restaurant interier photo © Jean-Michel Sordello; king crab photo © Aimery Chemin et Régis Grman

114 Faubourg

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W H E R E PA R I S

GOURMET

Marvellous mushrooms B Y PAT R I C I A V A L I C E N T I

oodlands and forests seem to come alive as autumn hits the air and within those realms culinary treasures emerge: the cep or Porcini mushrooms with their oddshaped stems, the brightly coloured girolles often called chanterelles in English, and the most secretive of tasty tubers, the truffles. Mushrooms wild or cultivated, like the celebrated Champignon of Paris, the mushroom of Paris, smooth and white, are delightfully in season to the great enchantment of chefs, gourmets and vegetarians, too. Ceps most likely came into vogue in the 18th century in Nancy at the court of Stanislas Leszczynski. The cep (cèpe in French) of which there are 20 edible varieties is the worthy object of various regional preparations around France. In the Auch they are prepared with white wine and

in the grand gastronomic region that is Gascony they are studded with garlic and served with country ham. As autumn falls in Paris, mushrooms become an integral part of the culinary landscape. At the Michelin 2-star Carré des Feuillants, Alain Dutournier does a cep trilogy: marinated, then in a pâté winding up with the cap, artfully sautéed, and a delightful cep infusion is also on the agenda as well as beautifully braised girolles served with the veal sweetbreads. Chez Frezet is a charming spot to enjoy an organic soft-boiled egg served upon a duxelles of the mushrooms of Paris. Ceps and girolles depending on availability are prepared as well with main courses or in a velouté. La Forge, which is specialised in the satiating cuisine of the southwest of France, serves up individual casseroles of seasonal mushrooms simply prepared with parsley and garlic or to accompany their finely prepared meat dishes.

Pierre Champion, which specialises in gourmet products from southwestern France, has a nice selection of preserved products including refined sauces and terrines showcasing ceps, morels and other wild mushrooms. And the mushroom experience can be continued with the Paris-based Société Mycologique de France (French Society of Mycology) that organises mushroom outings to forests and natural settings in the Paris region from March to December on Saturday afternoons and all day on Sundays. Meanwhile, the Manoir du Lys in Bagnoles-de-l’Orne in Normandy offers original mushroom weekends through November 2nd starting with a mushroom tasting dinner on Friday night followed on Saturday by a visit to the local food market then demonstration mushroom cooking classes and a journey into the local forest to hunt and gather mushrooms from among the 1200 species that grow there.

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[Dining]

RESTAURANT

RESTAU

LES ARTS

LES

Monday to Friday LUNCH & DINNER

RESTAU

LES

Close to the Trocadéro, in one of the most elegant late 19th century private mansions

Photo : Jean-Pierre Salle

Beautiful terrace in the summer to experience fine French cuisine Restaurant Les Arts 9 bis, avenue d’Iéna Paris 16 +33 (0)1 40 69 27 53 - Metro: Iéna www.salons-artsetmetiers.com

RATN

INDIANÊ MOGHOLÊ GASTRONOMYÊ The dining room at La Forge

4TheÊ MagicÊ ofÊ India,Ê openÊ everyÊ day,Ê 12pmÊ -Ê 2.45pmÊ /Ê Ê 7.15pm-11.45pm 4RecommendedÊ byÊ Michelin,Ê GaultÊ Millau,Ê Pudlo,Ê Bottin 4BusinessÊ lunch,Ê airÊ conditioned

ADDRESSES Carré des Feuillants 14 rue de Castiglione (1st) 01 42 86 82 82

Chez Frezet 181 rue Ordener (18th) 01 46 06 64 20

La Forge 14 rue Pascal (5th) 01 47 07 77 78

Pierre Champion 110 rue Mouffetard (5th) 01 55 43 92 59

Relais du Silence Le Manoir du Lys 02 33 37 80 69

Société Mycologique de France 01 44 67 96 90

SinceÊ 1976,Ê theÊ BhallaÊ family,Ê originallyÊ fromÊ NewÊ Delhi,Ê excelsÊ inÊ IndianÊ MogholÊ GastronomyÊ ofÊ theÊ 17thÊ centuryÊ andÊ immortalisesÊ theÊ beautifulÊ northÊ IndianÊ culinaryÊ traditions. RATN invites you to discover the finest specialties in tandoori and curries.

9Ê rueÊ deÊ laÊ Tremoille,Ê ParisÊ 8thÊ (Metro:Ê GeorgeÊ V)Ê Ê Ê -Ê Ê Ê Tel:Ê 01Ê 40Ê 70Ê 01Ê 09

www.restaurantratn.com

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W H E R E PA R I S French Cuisine in the heart of the Eiffel Tower Cuisine Française au cœur de la Tour Eiffel

L’abus d’alcool est dangereux pour la santé, boire avec modération.

BISTROS AND CAFES

1st floor of the Eiffel Tower - Paris 7th Open every day (lunch as from 11:30am ; dinner: 6:30pm or 9pm) Information and reservations: www.restaurants-toureiffel.com M Bir-Hakeim (Line 6) / RER Champ de Mars Tour Eiffel (line C)

  DurAnD DuPOnt FrEnCH CuISInE

4Open 4 4O Open pen everyday, service non stop from 8am to 2am 4 4Brunch Brunch every Sunday 4 4Patio Patio and terrace available available4Afterwork Afterwork Monday to Saturday evenings with Dj D Dj’s j’s ’s

When visiting Paris a bistro or a traditional French café meal is a must. Here are our favourite go-to spots for the month. L’AMI LOUIS Bistro A classic bistro known for huge portions of foie gras and exorbitant prices. People tend to love it or hate it, and well-heeled tourists reserve weeks in advance. Wed-Sun L&D. €€€€€ (V) 32 rue du Vertbois (3rd) 01.48.87.77.48. M° Arts et Metiers BENOIT Bistro Taken over, spruced up and enlarged by multiple-star chef Alain Ducasse, a classic 1912 bistro that’s a favourite of (very) affluent tourists for its traditional French cuisine that includes cassoulet, beef in Beaujolais, sole Grenobloise and an iced soufflé with Grand Marnier. Daily L&D. €€€€ (AE, V) 20 rue St-Martin (4th), 01.42.72.25.76. M° Châtelet LE CAFE DE L’ALMA Contemporary Ensconced on the very Parisian Avenue Rapp this is a chic and convivial spot for a meal or a drink on the serene outdoor terrace. The menu features traditional and healthy French fare as well as light and simple dishes from Spain, Italy and the Asian continent. Daily, B, L, D, service until midnight. €€ (AE, DC, MC, V). www.cafede-l-alma.com. 5 ave Rapp (7th), 01.45.51.56.74. M° Alma-Marceau CARETTE Café With its mirrors and marble-topped tables, this is a quintessentially Parisian spot for lunch or a tasty pastry and rich hot chocolate. French breakfast pastries, delicious salads and sandwiches are served and you can take it all away with you, too. Daily continuous service B&L. € (MC, V). www.carette-paris.com. 4 place du Trocadéro (16th) , 01.47.27.98.85. M° Rue de la Pompe/Trocadéro LA FONTAINE DE MARS Bistro A lively old-fashioned bistro serving such traditional French specialties as eggplant with goat cheese, mushroom pâté, cassoulet, and the house specialty, a prune and apple tart. Daily L&D. €€ (AE, MC, V) 129 rue St-Dominique (7th), 01.47.05.46.44. M° Ecole Militaire

Situated on a quiet square in the west of Paris, next to Porte Maillot, this restaurant not only offers delicious French fare but also a charming terrace to soak in the Parisian sun. Durand Dupont is an ideal table for a business lunch or a dinner in the intimate patio. And from the cellar, you can enjoy the ideal wine choosen by the best sommeliers to accompany a variety of dishes.

For a starter enjoy the crispy chicken spring rolls with lemongrass. then savour the chicken with coconut milk, green curry and basmati rice. Followed by a chocolate molten cake served with French vanilla ice cream.

14 Place du Marché (92 - Neuilly sur Seine) / Metro: Porte Maillot / Les Sablons Tel: 01 41 92 93 00 www.duranddupont.com

LA PALETTE Café This legendary Left Bank café still draws a clientele of local art students, gallery owners and national and international celebrities. Both its exterior and interior facades are listed historic monuments. Specialties include various farm fresh egg preparations and beef tartare. A nice selection of wines by the bottle or glass is available. Daily B,L,D. €€ (MC, V). www.cafelapaletteparis.com. 43 rue de Seine (6th), 01.43.26.68.15. M° Mabillon/St-Germain-des-Prés

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[Dining] affordable dining L'AS DU FALAFEL Mediterranean Looking for the best falafel in town? This is it. In the heart of the historic Marais neighbourhood, L’As du Falafel serves up fresh and plentiful pita pockets filled with delicious falafel. Sun-Thurs 12pm-12am/Fri 12pm-3pm. € (CB, MC, V) 34 rue des Rosiers (4th), 01.48.87.63.60. M° Saint-Paul

REFINED INDIAN GASTRONOMY Open every day, 12pm-2:30pm / 7pm-11:30pm ● Business Lunch, friendly service, air-conditioned ● Recommended by several gastronomic guides

CHEZ PAPA Southwestern French The glorious savours of the southwest come alive at this authentic eatery. Potted duck, cassoulet, foie gras and hearty salads are served in a courteous style. Try the duck wings with peaches or poached eggs with blue cheese. Daily. L & D. Sun: dinner only. € (Visa, CB, AE, MC) www.chez-papa.info. 29 rue de l’Arcade (8th), 01.42.65.43.68. M° Madeleine LA COUPOLE Brasserie This vast 1930’s landmark brasserie has been serving fairly good food lately, but the best bet is still the big seafood platters. Mon-Fri 8 am1 am, Sat/Sun 8:30am-1:30 am. €€ (Cards: all) 102 blvd du Montparnasse (14th), 01.43.20.14.20. M° Vavin

Steps away from La Défense and Porte Maillot, Ashiana invites you to discover “house” specialties in north Indian tandoori and curries in a charming environment. Excellent address to encounter India since 1986.

LAO LANE XANG 2 Cambodian-VietnameseLaotian Located in the heart of Paris’s Chinatown, this restaurant serves authentic Asian cuisine featuring traditional dishes from Laos, Vietnam and Thailand. Enjoy a generous serving of Phad Thai noodles, or choose between a green and a red curry. L & D. Closed Wed. € (MC, V). 102 ave d’Ivry (13th), 01.58.89.00.00. M° Tolbiac

205 ave Charles-de-Gaulle, 92200 Neuilly Sur Seine (Metro: Pont de Neuilly) Tel: 01 46 24 52 43 / www.restaurantashiana.com

RESTAURANT LE POULPRY Monday to Friday

PARIS NEW YORK American Found in the bustling 10th arrondissement, this retro hipster restaurant serves up the best burgers in the city including their tasty Vintage Cheeseburger made with 18-month aged cheddar cheese. Daily 12-3pm/7.30-11.30pm € (V) 50 rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis (10th), 01.47.70.15.24. M° Strasbourg Saint-Denis

LUNCH & DINNER

LE TOKYO EAT Contemporary This restaurant inside the Palais de Tokyo museum has a delightful terrace opened in the warm months. Sophisticated, modern cuisine is served at meal times and vegetarian dishes are available. A nice selection of teas, juices and milkshakes is on the agenda for an afternoon break. Daily. L & D 12pm-2am. €€ (AE, MC, V). www.palaisdetokyo.com. 13 ave du President Wilson (16th), 01.47.20.00.29. M° Alma Marceau

Photo : Jean-Pierre Salle

SQUARE MARCADET Classic French This trendy spot serves good traditional French food as well as vegetarian dishes in a lovely décor and in fine weather, in the garden. For starters try the snails followed by a superb fillet of beef. The restaurant features an excellent wine list. Tues-Sat L & D. € (MC, V). www.square-marcadet.com. 227bis rue Marcadet (18th), 01.53.11.08.41. M° Guy Môquet

An address known by few in a former bourgeois mansion; a world of charm and elegance within a stone’s throw of Musée d’Orsay. Fine French cuisine

Restaurant Le Poulpry | 12, rue de Poitiers Paris 7 Booking advised on +33 (0) 1 49 54 74 54 - Metro: Solférino www.maisondesx.com w w w.wheretr aveler.c o m 67

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W h e r e pa r i s [ D i n i n g ]

WORTH THE DiSTAnCE

D i S C O v E R T H E S E g R E AT TA b l E S A R O u n D P A R i S

L’Ile LE 107 Contemporary This modern restaurant with a New York style ambiance serves up food with a Spanish influence. Enjoy gourmet tapas, Iberian pork with lemon-flavoured mashed potatoes or rib steak from Argentina. Valet parking is available in the evening. Daily. Continuous service. € € (MC, V). 107 ave Charles de Gaulle, Neuilly/Seine (92), 01.58.83.54.58. Mº Les Sablons ASHIANA Indian Savour the gastronomy of India in a traditional atmosphere enhanced by a warm welcome. House specialties include north Indian Tandoori dishes, curries and superb Indian breads. Taste the bara kebab lamb or Tandoori prawns. Daily. L & D. €€ (MC, V). 205 ave Charles-de-Gaulle, Neuilly-surSeine (92), 01.46.24.52.43. Mº Pont de Neuilly DURAND DUPONT Contemporary This is the perfect spot for business or casual meals in a cosy and clubby atmosphere with a fine outdoor patio for warm weather days. The refined market-based cuisine changes with the seasons. Daily. B, L & D, continuous service

iN The MOOD FOr

PIZZA?

until 2am. €€€ (AE, V). 14 pl du Marché, Neuilly-sur-Seine (92), 01.41.92.93.00. Mº Porte Maillot/Les Sablons L’ILE Classic French Nestled in a setting of lush greenery, this restaurant is housed in a Napoleon III pavilion. Finely prepared classics include marinated Scottish salmon and sole meunière. The superb terrace is opened throughout the year. Daily L & D. €€ (AE, MC, V). L’Ile Saint-Germain, 170 quai Stalingrad, Issy-les-Moulineaux, 01.41.09.99.99. Tramway Line T2, stop: Issy Val-de-Seine; RER C, stop: Issy Val de Seine

inventive cuisine, including such

LE SEBILLON Classic French

dishes as rabbit “cookies” with a

A favourite spot in the chic suburb

gherkin île flottante.

of Neuilly right beside the Palais

Tue-Fri L & D, Sat D. €€ (AE, MC,

des Congrès serving wonderful

V) 48 ave de Bry, Le Perreux-sur-

oysters, crayfish and lobster. Try the

Marne, 01.48.72.47.43. A 15-min

perfectly cooked leg of lamb carved

taxi ride, or RER to Nogent-Le

at your table and enjoy the elegant

Perreux, then walk 10 min L’O RESTAURANT Contemporary

yet family-style atmosphere. The giant éclair comes in both

Enjoy refined French and

chocolate and coffee flavours.

international cuisine on the

Daily L & D. €€/€€€ (Cards: all)

waterfront in this restaurant in

20 ave Charles de Gaulle,

a barge moored on the Seine.

Neuilly-sur-Seine (92),

Specialties include Cesar salad

01.46.24.71.31.

with crab, homemade tarama and

Mº Porte Maillot

market-based fare. Valet parking. Daily L & D. €€ (AE, MC, V).

ORIENT ExTREME Japanese

47 quai Michelet, Levallois-

Fine, contemporary Japanese

JARASSE Classic French An excellent fish restaurant run by two-star chef Michel Rostang and his daughter, serving such dishes as breaded grilled mussels and wokseared tuna with foie gras. Good reasonably priced wines. Daily. L & D. €€/€€€ (Cards: all) 4 ave de Madrid, Neuilly-surSeine (92), 01.46.24.07.56. Mº Pont de Neuilly

Perret, 01.41.34.32.86.

cuisine is served in this elegant,

Mº Pont de Levallois-Bécon

luminous restaurant. Start with a

LES MAGNOLIAS Contemporary A one-star restaurant with wildly Mastino 46 rue Caulaincourt (18th), 01 42 55 14 25

LE PRE CATELAN Classic French An elegant, century-old retreat in the Bois de Boulogne, where Frédéric Anton serves such delicious dishes as small étrille

salad of baby spinach and green asparagus followed by grilled black cod marinated in miso or Wagyu beef in ponzu sauce. The cheesecake is a superb choice for

crabs in a coral-and-caviar gelée in

dessert. Valet parking.

this three-star restaurant.

Mon-Sat L, D. €€/€€€ (MC,V).

Tue-Sat L&D. €€€€ (Cards: all)

http://orient-extreme.com.

Route de Suresnes, Bois de

36bis rue de Sablonville, Neuilly-

Boulogne (16th), 01.44.14.41.14.

sur-Seine, 92200. 01.46.24.94.14.

Car or taxi recommended.

M°Porte Maillot/Les Sablons

REbEllato 138 rue de la Pompe (16th), 01 44 05 08 08

Volfoni 14 blvd de la République, Boulogne Billancourt 92100, 01 46 20 05 82

Pizza Pino Open till 5am 31 ave des ChampsElysées (8th), 01 40 74 01 12

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W h e r e pa r i s

a sWeet break Not far from the Bois de Boulogne is the Cupcake & Coffee tea salon, which serves, as the name gives away, cupcakes and coffee. Open from Tuesday through to Saturday this sweet looking address is perfect for a delicious break after a lazy stroll through the huge Bois de Boulogne. Step in for a

latte and an Oreo cupcake or perhaps a yummy slice of cheesecake or carrot cake. If you are more of a savoury fan, Cupcake & Coffee also serves bagels and savoury tarts. Cupcake & Coffee Tea Salon 10 blvd Jean-Jaurès, 92100 BoulogneBillancourt, 09 84 51 17 28

He is known for his haute chocolaterie. She is known for her quirky bag designs. Together, chocolatier Pierre Marcolini and designer Olympia Le-Tan have created two limited edition gift boxes that every chocoholic fashionista will want to get their perfectly manicured hands on. Designed like Le-Tan’s famous book clutches, the colourful boxes, featuring quirky illustrations, with one boldly declaring “My eyes are bigger than my stomach”, can be filled with Olympia Le-Tan’s favourite chocolate flavours, or you could select your own chocolate flavours or alternatively choose to fill your clutch with macarons. Available at the new Maison Pierre Marcolini boutique 235 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 09 67 15 07 22

Pierre marcolini Photo © Dr/Pierre marcolini

More than just a Bag

70 W H E R E Pa r i s i O C TO B E r 2014

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FOOD STOP

OWNER OF CHÂTEAU PAPE CLÉMENT

DALLOYAU This luxury Gastronomy House crafts daily all of its products, including exceptional pastries, homemade chocolates, natural flavoured macarons and other refined meals. 101 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.99.90.00. M° St-Philippe-du-Roule FAUCHON A celebrated food emporium with an excellent selection of wines, along with foie gras, caviar, exotic fruit, chocolates, teas and spices. Also offers top-notch take-out meals. 26 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.70.39.38.00. Two doors down at Number 30 find Le Café and Le Comptoir with a fabulous wine cellar, a great cheese plate, and the most delicious caramel éclairs. Amazing gift baskets make for a perfect offering for all foodies. M° Madeleine KUSMI TEA The iconic tea brand, born in SaintPetersburg in 1867, and raised in Paris, opens the first flagship store dedicated to tea on the Champs-Elysées. Enjoy the outstanding colorful boutique with over 60 teas and the chic Franco-Russian Café Kousmichoff overlooking the avenue, offering all-day dining from 8am to 11pm, 7 days a week. 71 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.63.08.08. M° George V

40 exceptional vineyards to taste in the heart of Paris, including 4 grands crus classés Bordeaux: SAINT-EMILION • MEDOC • SAUTERNES • PESSAC LÉOGNAN 43 rue Saint-Augustin, Paris 2nd / Tel: +33 (0)1.49.24.03.11 Open Tuesday to Saturday from 11am to 7.30pm www.bernard-magrez.com Alcohol abuse is dangerous for health. Consume with moderation.

LADUREE A wonderfully old-fashioned pastry shop and tearoom famous for its macarons, crispy confections with soft centres that come in classic flavours as well as seasonal specialties. 75 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.40.75.08.75. M° George V

Pierre marcolini Photo © Dr/Pierre marcolini

LAVINIA One of the world’s largest wine shops, with close to 6,000 wines and spirits from France and other countries. Every imaginable wine accessory is here, too, and lunch and tapas are served upstairs. 3-5 blvd de la Madeleine (1st), 01.42.97.20.20. M° Madeleine NICOLAS The celebrated Parisian wine shops offer a wide range of reds, whites, rosés, and champagnes for all budgets. A warm welcome and excellent advice are hallmarks of Nicolas. The three-storey Place de la Madeleine boutique is the largest and features a wine cellar. An on the premises wine bar is opened Mon-Fri noon-8pm/ Sat noon-3pm. Please see website for all addresses. www.nicolas.com. 31 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.68.00.16. M° Madeleine w w w.wheretr aveler.c o m 71

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dining g o u r m e t s e r v i c e at y o u r f i n g e r t i p s

Around Louvre & PALAis royAL (1st, 2nd) Au Coin Des Gourmets - CAmboDiAnVietnAmese-LAotiAn (€€). A very popular restaurant run by the charming Ta family, serving excellent Asian food. The Vietnamese ravioli may be the best in town. Reasonable prices, good wines. Mon-Sat L&D. 38 rue du Mont-Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.79.79. Mº Concorde Aux LYonnAis - bistro (€€). A beautiful 1890 bistro now co-owned by superchef Alain Ducasse, offering spiffed-up and modernized Lyon specialties: baked eggs with crawfish, roast chicken with mushrooms, tomatoes and onions in vinegar glaze. Tue-Fri L&D, Sat D. 32 rue St-Marc (2nd),01.42.96.65.04. M° Richelieu-Drouot beef CLub - bistro (€€€). As its name implies this bistro serves fine beef and meat dishes. Sumptuous cuts of beef are served baked or grilled and the burgers are served on a homemade bun. Starters include oysters, beef marrow and asparagus. Daily D only. 58 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1st), 09.54.37.13.65. M° Etienne Marcel bistro VoLnAY - bistrot (€€€). Good, authentic French food in a relaxed, friendly setting with a first-rate wine list including an excellent value Volnay. The cheese tray is superb and generously served. Mon-Fri L&D. 8 rue Volney (2nd), 01.42.61.06.65. Mº Opéra bistrot riCheLieu - CLAssiC frenCh (€€). This bistro with an inviting terrace serves up traditional French fare. Typical classics like onion soup and snails from Burgundy can be savoured for starters. Be tempted by the breast of duck in fig sauce or the sea bass in basil cream. Continuous service 9am-11:30pm. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 45 rue de Richelieu (1st), 01.42.60.19.16. Mº Palais Royal Goust - Gourmet (€€€). Located on the first floor of a Napoleon III mansion, this one-star restaurant near the Place Vendôme offers gastronomic Mediterranean-style cuisine accompanied by first-rate service. The menus change regularly but dishes can include tuna tartar with mango sauce or prawns with mushrooms. Tues-Sun. L&D. 10 rue Volney (2nd), 01 40 15 20 30. M° Opéra KinuGAwA - JApAnese (€€€). Footsteps from the Place Vendôme, this mythical Japanese restaurant has been re-designed by the architects Gilles & Boissier. Chef Ozuru, formerly of Nobu Paris, prepares Japanese gastronomy that brings together the traditional and the modern. Mon-Sun L&D. 9 rue Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.65.07. M° Tuileries Le bAuDeLAire - meDiterrAneAn (€€€). At this one-star restaurant, opening onto a quiet patio in the Burgundy Hotel, Chef Pierre Rigothier prepares seasonal products underscored by a menu that changes regularly while pastry chef Stéphane Tranchet prepares delicious desserts. L, Mon-Fri, D, Tues-Sat. 6-8 rue Duphot (1st), 01.42.60.34.12. Mº Madeleine

Le Costes - CLAssiC frenCh (€€€). Très chic hotel restaurant with Napoleon III decor and plenty of attitude. The food’s okay but the star-studded scene’s the thing. Pretty interior patio. Daily B, L, D. 239 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.42.44.50.25. Mº Tuileries wiLLi’s wine bAr - bistrot (€€). This convivial establishment, popular with wine lovers, serves perfectly prepared fresh seasonal fare from a menu that changes daily. You can also dine at the long polished oak bar. The restaurant offers a diverse and delicious selection of wines served by the glass or bottle. Reservations are strongly recommended. Mon-Fri, L&D, Sat, D only. 13 rue des Petits Champs (1st), 01.42.61.05.09. M° Pyramides L’esCArGot montorGueiL - CLAssiC frenCh (€€€€). Within the authentic, beautiful walls of Second Empire decor delect truly fine food. Snails, of course remain a specialty with the freshest of fish or hearty meat dishes following. Classic desserts like crepes Suzette and Grand Marnier soufflé are prepared to perfection. Daily L&D. 38 rue Montorgueil (1st), 01.42.36.83.51. M° Etienne Marcel Le GrAnD Vefour - moDern CLAssiC (€€€€). The opulent two-star restaurant in the Palais Royal arcades that has been serving the Parisian beau monde since the 1700s. Among chef Guy Martin’s superb dishes are the foie gras ravioli with truffle jus. Mon-Fri L&D, Fri. L only. 17 rue de Beaujolais (1st), 01.42.96.56.27. Mº Palais Royal Le LAmfé - CLAssiC frenCh (€).Serving traditional cuisine in a cosy ambiance with plenty of charm. Once you’ve settled in, the staff will suggest a list of starters like the baked Camembert with thyme or the home-made foie gras from Les Landes. Refined appetizers, like a classic marrow bone, are followed by fine beef dishes including a noble rib steak. Tues-Sat L&D until 11pm. 7 rue des Prouvaires (1st), 01.45.08.04.10. Mº Châtelet Le meuriCe-ALAin DuCAsse - moDern CLAssiC (€€€€€). A stunning 18th-century room offers a gastronomic menu featuring sumptuous 3-star cuisine that changes with the seasons. Daily B, L (except Sat), D. Hôtel Meurice, 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.58.10.44. Mº Tuileries Le LouChebem - bistro (€). Located in the heart of the historic Les Halles district, this establishment is currently in the hands of the fourth generation of the same family. From the cooked ham on the bone to an authentic salad of pot au feu, everything here is homemade. Mon-Sat L&D. 31 rue Berger (1st), 01.42.33.12.99. Mº Châtelet/Les Halles Le restAurAnt Du pALAis roYAL - CLAssiC frenCh (€€). Fine fare is prepared by the talented chef Eric Fontanini in this gastronomic restaurant overlooking the gardens of the Palais Royal. Seasonal cuisine and exceptional products are hallmarks of the menu, which changes regularly. Perfectly executed dishes from the classical repertoire can include Turbot Dugléré and breaded sweetbreads. Tues-Sat L&D. 110 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.40.20.00.27. M° Bourse

Le souffLé - CLAssiC frenCh (€€). This is the place to taste one of France’s finest specialties, the souffle. Attentive service and superb quality await in this restaurant established in 1961. Faithful to traditional cuisine, in addition to over 20 different kinds of souffles, a classic French menu is proposed. Mon-Sat L&D. 36 rue du Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.27.19. Mº Concorde pAssAGe 53 - bistro (€€€). Japanese chef Shinichi Sato prepares superb French cuisine with a light Japanese touch using the finest of ingredients, like meat from Desnoyer. Located in the oldest covered arcade in town, this two-star restaurant offers an authentically Parisian experience. Tues-Sat. L&D. 53 passage des Panoramas (2nd), 01.42.33.04.35. Mº Grands Boulevards LA tour De montLhérY-Chez Denise bistro (€€). This traditional bistro serves up excellent, copious fare in the Les Halles neighbourhood where the city’s great food market once was. The chips and terrines are house-made, calf’s liver is done up English style and the beef is from the Limousin region of France. Mon-Fri L&D, open until 5am. 5 rue des Prouvaires (1st), 01.42.36.21.82. M° Les Halles

Le MArAis (3rd, 4th) Chez JuLien - CLAssiC frenCh (€€). Fine seasonal and regional products are served in a charming Belle Epoque atmosphere. Offerings can include Bresse chicken with potatoes from the isle of Noirmoutier. Marble tables, woodwork by Majorelle and a view out onto the Saint Gervais church, the Seine and Notre Dame beyond add to the fine dining experience. Daily L&D. 1 rue du Pont Louis-Philippe (4th), 01.42.78.31.64. M° Pont Marie Don JuAn ii - Gourmet (€€€€). The Don Juan II is filled with the charm and elegance of a great yacht, offering a delicious cruise through the heart of Paris. In a calm and luxurious atmosphere enjoy the gastronomic cuisine of Guy Krenzer, who has been awarded the finest craftsman of France title. Daily D. Port Henri IV (4th), 01.44.45.14.71. M° Sully-Morland GeorGes - worLD Cuisine (€€€). Trendy restaurant on the roof of the Pompidou Center, with surprisingly good world cuisine (crispy duck, swordfish with coriander), a space-age decor and a spectacular view. Wed-Mon L&D until 2 am. Reservations required. Centre Pompidou, level 6. Place Pompidou (4th), 01.44.78.47.99. Mº Rambuteau L’Ambroisie - hAute Cuisine (€€€€€). In a beautiful 17th-century mansion in the Place des Vosges, media-shy three-star chef Bernard Pacaud is renowned for splendid renditions of deceptively simple dishes such as lobster ravioli with truffles or langoustine feuillantine with sesame and curry. Fabulous foie gras. Tue-Sat L&D. 9 Place des Vosges (4th), 01.42.78.51.45. Mº St-Paul Le serGent reCruteur - Gourmet (€€€). This one-star restaurant serves market-based cuisine that changes on a daily basis. Meats of an exceptional quality, fresh-caught fish from the Loire River, homemade butter and a blend of coffee made especially for the house are all on the agenda. Tues-Sun L&D. 41 rue St-Louis-en-L’Ile (4th), 01.43.54.75.43. M° Pont Marie minimes - brAsserie (€€€). This brasserie in the Marais neighbourhood serves contemporary French cuisine in a relaxing atmosphere with an upstairs dining room offering a boudoir décor. Enjoy a classic foie gras or a fresh artichoke salad flavoured with truffle oil. Daily B, L&D. 36 rue de Turenne (3rd), 01.42.71.36.70. M° Chemin Vert

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L&D: Breakfast, lunch & dinner only. A WWHHEERREEPa 72 Parri si si iaU OC GTO U s BT E2014 r 2014

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for more detailed listings, go to wheretraveler.com/paris

QuArtier LAtin & sAint-GerMAin (5th, 6th) A LC A z A r - b r A s s e r i e ( € € € ) . E n g l i s h restaurateur Terence Conran’s big, cool, noisy brasserie-bar, with contemporary French and fusion dishes such as scallops with grapefruit and green papaya. Daily L&D until 1 am. 62 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.53.10.19.99. Mº Odéon Au mouLin à Vent - bistro (€€). This charming bistro located in one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Paris is known for the quality of its Salers beef and its specialties of the Beaujolais region. Among the authentic offerings are prime rib with Béarnaise sauce, calf’s liver and frog legs. A delightful dessert is the Baba au rhum. Valet parking. Tues–Fri L&D/ Sat D only. 20 rue des Fossés-St-Bernard (5th), 01.43.54.99.37. M° Jussieu CAfé De fLore - bistrot (€€). The legendary café made famous in the 1950s by Jean-Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir and other Left Bank intellectuals. The atmosphere is still Parisian, the fare limited to (expensive) drinks and light snacks and traditional desserts. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 172 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.26. Mº St-Germain-des-Prés CAfé Des Deux mAGots - CAfé (€€). The other legendary Left Bank café, still going strong long after its 1950s heyday. The corner location facing the church makes it slightly more touristy than the rival Café de Flore, and prices are equally high, but it remains an authentic Parisian favourite. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 6 Place Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.25. Mº St-Germain-des-Prés héLène DArroze - southwestern frenCh (€€). Young chef Hélène Darroze serves up southwestern French specialties in this contemporary one-star restaurant. The casual ground floor Salon d’Hélène serves upscale tapas. Tue-Sat L&D. 4 rue d’Assas (6th), 01.42.22.00.11. Mº Sèvres Babylone LA LoCAnDA - itALiAn (€€). Rediscover favourite Italian classics from throughout the peninsula in this comfortable and chic restaurant in Saint Germain des Prés. Superb antipasti dishes as well as pasta “al dente” (home-made ravioli, lasagna and gnocchi). Fish and seafood direct from the sea and “tartufo” specialties every day. Excellent selection of Italian wines (Barolo, Brunello, Tignanello). Daily L&D. 8 rue du Dragon (6th), 01.45.44.12.53. M° St Germain des Prés LA meDiterrAnee - seAfooD (€€). A bright and beautiful, mostly seafood restaurant with marvelous wall paintings and a glass-walled terrace facing the Odéon theater. It once welcomed the likes of Liz Taylor and Orson Welles, as the discreet photos on the stairwell attest. Daily L&D until 11 pm. 2 Place de l’Odéon (6th), 01.43.26.02.30. M° Odéon LApérouse - Gourmet (€€€). This elegant restaurant on the Seine serves finely prepared gastronomic French cuisine. Starters include crayfish ravioli or foie gras with 12 spices. A nice main course is the aged house steak. Private dining rooms may be reserved as well. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat, D only. 51 Quai des Grands Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.68.04. Mº St-Michel LA tour D’ArGent - CLAssiC frenCh (€€€€€). A Paris institution from another era, now with only one star, but still offering its famous numbered pressed duck and an absolutely magical view of Notre-Dame. Tues-Sat L&D. 15-17 Quai de la Tournelle (5th), 01.43.54.23.31. Mº Maubert-Mutualité

LA truffière - southwestern frenCh (€€€). Cozy one-star restaurant in a 17th-century vaulted cellar serving southwestern French cuisine, including foie gras and black and white truffle dishes, and menus that change with the seasons. 2,400 bottle wine list. Tue-Sun L&D. 4 rue de Blainville (5th), 01.46.33.29.82. Mº Place Monge Le montpArnAsse 1900 - CLAssiC frenCh (€€). Sumptuous food in a sumptuous decor. A stunning Art Nouveau setting in this registered historical monument surrounds you as you delight in a fine selection of grilled meats and finely prepared dishes. Daily L&D. 59 blvd Montparnasse (6th), 01.45.49.19.00. Mº Montparnasse-Bienvenue/Vavin reLAis Louis xiii - CLAssiC frenCh (€€€€). In a wood-beamed medieval townhouse, two-star chef Manuel Martinez serves delicious dishes revolving around seasonal products. Fine wine list. Tue-Sat, L&D. 8 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.75.96. Mº St-Michel

Le GrAnD Vefour See page 72

tAoKAn - Chinese (€€€). Contemporary Chinese gastronomy is served in this elegantly decorated restaurant. An excellent dim sum is among the offerings while starters include crispy shrimp rolls or peppery beef with a tasty herb salad. Main courses include whole sole served with ginger soy marinade or duck in Hoisin sauce with dainty pancakes. Valet parking available. Mon-Sat L&D. 8 rue du Sabot (6th), 01.42.84.18.36. M° St-Sulpice ze KitChen GALerie - fusion (€€). Ze silly name aside, chef William Ledeuil’s chic restaurant offers excellent soups, marinated fish, pasta starters and main courses a la plancha. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D. 4 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.44.32.00.32. Mº St Michel

LA meDiterrAnee See this page

Around the eiffeL tower & Les invALides (7th) 58 tour eiffeL - CLAssiC frenCh (€€). Located on the 1st floor of the Eiffel Tower this is a great place for a lunch or dinner while enjoying a breathtaking view. This restaurant proffers a chic picnic for lunch, among the offerings: seared salmon, Caesar salad and gourmet hamburgers (served until 5:30). Daily L&D. Champ de Mars (7th), 08.25.56.66.62. Mº Ecole Militaire ArpeGe - ContemporArY (€€€€€). Three-star chef Alain Passard’s menu is now half vegetarian serving ravioli with vegetables, Cévennes onions with Parmesan, and his famous tomato dessert though carnivores can find dishes like squab with sugared almonds. Mon-Fri L&D. 84 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.47.05.09.06. Metro: Varenne JuLes Verne - hAute Cuisine (€€€€). This gastronomic gem is a very expensive restaurant in the Eiffel Tower taken over by multiple-star chef Alain Ducasse. The Jules Verne has been awarded one Michelin star. Treat yourself to “haute-cuisine” with the most spectacular view of Paris. Daily L&D. Eiffel Tower, 2nd floor (7th), 01.45.55.61.44. Mº Bir-Hakeim

Les ombres See page 74

L’Ami JeAn - CLAssiC frenCh (€€€). Don’t let the banal facade confuse you, this is a great choice for authentic French cooking. Chef Stéphane Jégo serves up generous portions of regional delicacies, with an accent on wild game, as well as delicious seafood platters. Tues-Sat L&D. 27 rue Malar (7th), 01.47.05.86.89. Mº La Tour-Maubourg L’AteLier De JoeL robuChon - bistro (€€€). The 2-star lunch-counter restaurant of chef Joel Robuchon serves contemporary French dishes such as a foie gras burger. No reservations, and sometimes a long wait outside. Daily L&D until 11 pm. 5 rue Montalembert (7th), 01.42.22.56.56. M° Rue du Bac Le bistrot Du 7e - bistro (€). A pleasant bistrot with a terrace serving traditional French cuisine at reasonable prices. Specialties include lobster terrine

©Francesca Mantovani

nos AnCÊtres Les GAuLois - CLAssiC frenCh (€€). Dine in hearty, bountiful Gaulic splendour fit for a feast. Enjoy the rustic décor and tavern ambiance, a great board and rousing guitar music. Daily, D, from 7pm, L, Sat & Sun only, noon-3pm. 39 rue St Louis en l’Ile (4th), 01.46.33.66.07. Mº Pont Marie

Le restAurAnt Du pALAis roYAL See page 72

Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above. wwwww.wheretr w.wh eretraveler.c aveler.coomm 73 A

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g o u r m e t s e r v i c e at y o u r f i n g e r t i p s

and duck breast, dinner is by candlelight. Daily L&D. 56 blvd de La Tour-Maubourg (7th), 01.45.51.93.08. Mº La Tour Maubourg Le CAfé De L’ALmA - ContemporArY (€€). Ensconced on the very Parisian Avenue Rapp this is a chic and convivial spot for a meal or a drink on the serene outdoor terrace. The menu features traditional and healthy French fare as well as light and simple dishes from Spain, Italy and the Asian continent. Daily, B, L, D, service until midnight. 5 ave Rapp (7th), 01.45.51.56.74. Mº Alma-Marceau Les ombres - ContemporArY (€€€€). The spectacular glass-domed rooftop restaurant of Musée du Quai Branly, directly beneath the Eiffel Tower. Contemporary French with an exotic touch: foie gras terrine with mango chutney, roast lamb with gingerbread and zucchini ravioli. Daily L&D. 27 Quai Branly (7th), 01.47.53.68.00. Mº Alma-Marceau

Around the ChAMPs-eLysées (8th) 114 fAubourG - brAsserie (€€€). An elegant one-star establishment in the Bristol Hotel proffers superb cooking from three-star chef Eric Frechon in a delightful duplex space. Delicious offerings include a rotisserie-roasted chicken and for dessert a millefeuille with salty caramel sauce. 7/7, L&D. 114 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th) , 01.53.43.44.44. Mº Miromesnil 39V - ContemporArY (€€€). This glamorous onestar restaurant, in the heart of the Golden Triangle, sports a modern, streamlined décor. The grilled langoustines in a light citrus sauce are excellent as is the cheesecake. Try the delicious white wine from the Greek island of Tinos. Valet parking in the evening. Mon-Fri L&D. 39 ave George V (8th), 01.56.62.30.05. Mº George V ApiCius - ContemporArY (€€€€). The one-star restaurant of chef Jean-Pierre Vigato, offering a mix of (very expensive) modern and country cooking: lobster ravioli, potato charlotte with caviar. Mon-Fri L&D. 20 rue d’Artois (8th), 01.43.80.19.66. Mº St-Philippe-du-Roule bAteAux-mouChes - CLAssiC frenCh (€€€). Savour homemade duck foie gras with cocoa and ginger to start then try the turbot with vegetable tagliatelle from the Excellence dinner menu. Vegetarian dishes are available, too. Daily departures for dinner at 8:30pm, Sat, Sun and public holidays for lunch at 1pm. Passengers must arrive prior to departure times. Port de la Conférence, Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. Mº Alma-Marceau Chez AnDré - bistro (€€). Superb, authentic bistro cuisine just steps away from the Champs-Elysées. Enjoy solid traditional French food highlighting regional meats of France and the freshest of fish in a cosy setting. Daily, continuous service L&D. 12 rue Marbeuf (8th), 01.47.20.59.57. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt epiCure - Gourmet (€€€€€). The beautiful dining room looks out over the hotel’s French garden and is a perfect setting for three-star chef Eric Frechon’s remarkable cuisine and superb desserts by pastry chef Laurent Jeannin. Daily L&D. Hôtel Le Bristol, 112 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. Mº Miromesnil fAuChon Le CAfé - Gourmet (€€). This temple to gastronomy is open all day and is a cosy yet sleek restaurant featuring fine and varied fare from foie gras to vanilla millefeuilles. Offering a great view of Place de la Madeleine. Mon-Sat 9am-midnight, B, L&D. Closed Sun. 30 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.70.39.38.39. Mº Madeleine L’Astor - Gourmet (€€€). Chef Nicolas Clavier’s original and creative dishes include a foie gras and smoked eel delight or seabass in ceviche for starters followed by a snacked cod fish fillet or a Black Angus rib-steak Rossini as a main. MonFri L&D. 11 rue d’Astorg (8th), 01.53.05.05.20. Mº St-Augustin

LA sCene See this page LA sCene - Gourmet (€€€€). This gastronomic restaurant in the Prince de Galles hotel offers an authentic and generous cuisine using remarkable products. For a fish course, succulent French lobster is a fine choice while meat dishes include fine milk-fed veal and wild hare from the Beauce region. Mon-Sat B, L&D, Sun Brunch. 33 ave George V (8th), 01.53.23.78.52. Mº George V LA tAbLe Du LAnCAster - fusion (€€€€). This delightful one-star establishment serves creative, light and elegant meals crafted by chef Julien Roucheteau whose seasonal menus revolve around a specific product. Dishes can include herb-roasted saddle of lamb for a starter followed by sole with chives. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat-Sun D. Hôtel Lancaster, 7 rue de Berri (8th), 01.40.76.40.18. Mº George V Le 68 pAr GuY mArtin - CLAssiC frenCh (€€). Tucked away downstairs in the historic Guerlain boutique is a restaurant bursting with flavourful dishes. The menu and restaurant have been conceived by starred chef Guy Martin and the dishes draw their inspiration from Guerlain’s famous fragrances. 7/7, continuous, B, L, D. 68 Champs-Elysées (8th) 01.45.62.54.10. M° George V/Franklin D. Roosevelt Le Cinq - Gourmet (€€€€€). Chef Eric Briffard offers wonderful dishes like purple sea urchin in creamy fennel broth and milk-fed lamb with Espelette pepper. Superbly aged cheeses and delectable desserts, like the Peruvian chocolate stuffed tart, follow in this 2-star establishment. Serious wine list, and fantastic flowers by American florist Jeff Leatham. Daily L&D. Four Seasons Hôtel George V, 31 ave George V (8th), 01.49.52.70.00. Mº George V LeDoYen - Gourmet (€€€€€). An elegant 18th-century pavilion with a Napoleon III decor in the gardens of the Champs-Elysées, where chef Yannick Alléno serves his unique gastronomic cuisine. TueFri L&D, Mon D. Carré des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.05.10.00. M° Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau Le piChet De pAris - CLAssiC frenCh (€€€). This quintessential Parisian eating establishment serves classic French fare in a warm setting. Specialities include superb seafood, perfectly prepared fish dishes like fresh cod with olive oil and basil and rack of lamb. Homemade pastries are featured on the dessert menu. Mon-Fri, L&D, Sat, D only. 68 rue Pierre Charron (8th), 01.43.59.50.34. Mº George V Le sAfrAn - Gourmet (€€€). Fine French gastronomy and international cuisine is served in the Art Deco ambiance of this restaurant located inside

the Hôtel du Collectionneur. The menu revolves around the seasons. The piano is played on Saturday evenings and Sunday brunch comes complete with free entertainment for children. Daily L&D. 51-57 rue de Courcelles (8th), 01.58.36.67.97. M° Courcelles mAison bLAnChe - ContemporArY (€€€€). Chef Hervé Nepple serves cuisine for the senses, inventive, savoury and refined fare. Located on the 7th floor of the Théâtre des Champs Elysées, the restaurant with its garden terrace overlooks the Eiffel Tower. Mon-Fri L&D/Sat-Sun D. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.23.55.99. Mº Alma Marceau rAtn - inDiAn (€€€). Since 1976, the Bhalla family, originally from New Delhi, excels in the Indian Moghol gastronomy and invites you to discover the fine Moghol specialties in tandoori and curries. A place where you can experience India for it’s traditions and culinary art. Recommended by Gault Millau and Pudlo. Open daily L&D. 9 rue de la Trémoille (8th), 01.40.70.01.09. Mº George V sAntoor - inDiAn (€). Just off the Champs-Elysées, a restaurant specializing in traditional Indian food including tandoori and curries. Mon-Sat L&D, Sun D only. 30 rue Marbeuf (8th), 01.42.56.33.18. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt sAVY - brAsserie (€€). A popular table for journalists, fashion designers and show business people, this establishment offers authentic and traditional French cuisine in a 1930’s art deco decor. The house specialty is Aubrac beef and the house has a fine selection of vintage millesimes wines. Mon-Fri, B, L&D. 23 rue Bayard (8th), 01.47.23.46.98. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt zen GArDen - Chinese (€€). The interior is designed to resemble a Chinese pagoda with an eight-metre high tower and 30 Buddhas, a plethora of hanging plants, numerous water fountains, wind chimes and porcelain vases. The relaxing atmosphere is perfect for savouring gastronomic Chinese cuisine. Daily L&D. 15 rue de Marbeuf (8th), 01.53.23.82.82. M° George V

Around oPérA GArnier & PiGALLe (9th, 10th,18th) bouiLLon ChArtier - CLAssiC frenCh (€). The mythical Parisian eatery where you share a table with students, artists or elegant businessmen. There is a daily set menu but each day enjoy classics like hardboiled eggs with mayonnaise or grated carrots to start followed by a hearty choucroute or chopped steak with chips. Daily continuous service L&D. 7 rue Fbg Montmartre (9th), 01.47.70.86.29. Mº Grands Boulevards CAfé De LA pAix - CLAssiC frenCh (€€€). This classic Parisian institution with its decor of painted ceiling, pillars and murals is an elegant place to watch the world go by over coffee, light meals or drinks from its terraces. Fine fare is featured in the restaurant. On Sundays enjoy one of the biggest buffet brunches in Paris with jazz and a special space for children, available from noon to 3:30pm. Daily B, L&D. 5 Place de l’Opéra (9th), 01.40.07.36.36. Mº Opéra Le CAfé pouChKine - CAfé (€). This delightful tea salon, the Paris branch of the famous Moscow establishment, located in the Printemps department store serves and sells traditional Russian pastries and sweets in a beautiful décor. Excellent hot chocolate and authentic Russian beverages are all on the agenda. Mon-Sat continuous. 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.43.31. M° Havre-Caumartin Le Lumière - Gourmet (€€€). Enjoy lunch, dinner or tea beneath a magnificent glass roof in this lovely place. There are champagne and cheese trolleys and the dessert trolley filled with traditional French pastries like éclairs and millefeuilles is a fine ending to a meal and a good reason to stop in for high tea. Daily L&D. Hôtel Scribe,1 rue Scribe (9th), 01.44.71.74.20. Mº Opéra

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for more detailed listings, go to wheretraveler.com/paris

L’operA restAurAnt - ContemporArY (€€€). Located at the opera house, this restaurant with a contemporary decor of white and red, offers up a great view of the famous opera neighbourhood and one of the city’s largest terraces. Serves traditional dishes with a twist and the house dessert, l’Opera. Daily B, L & D 7am-midnight. Palais Garnier, Place Jacques Rouché (9th), 01.42.68.86.80. Mº Opéra wepLer - brAsserie (€). Superb seafood platters, French onion soup, homemade ice-cream and pastries are just some of the classic delights at this Parisian landmark nestled near Montmartre and Pigalle. Daily 8am12:30am.14 Place de Clichy (18th), 01.45.22.53.24. Mº Place de Clichy

Around BAstiLLe (11th, 12th) bLue eLephAnt - thAi (€€€). Authentic Thai cuisine in a setting of lush plants, orchids and a waterfall. Weekly arrivals of herbs, spices, fruits and other goods direct from Bangkok. The team of Thai chefs prepares jumbo shrimp soup with lemon grass and lamb Massamam among other specialties. 7/7 L& D, Sun brunch & D. 43-45 rue de la Roquette (11th), 01.47.00.42.00. Mº Bastille septime - CLAssiC frenCh (€€€). Traditional French fare featuring inventive market-based cuisine from the talented Bertrand Grébaut is on the agenda here. Enjoy selective produce and products like the Banka trout from the Basque country with lentils and coriander in a relaxed atmosphere. TuesFri L, D, Mon D only. 80 rue de Charonne (11th), 01.43.67.38.29. Mº Charonne Le trAin bLeu - CLAssiC frenCh (€€€). A magnificent, mirrored Belle Epoque restaurant in the Gare de Lyon train station serving classic French fare including lobster salad with artichokes, sole meunière and steak tartare. Daily B, L&D. Gare de Lyon, Place Louis Armand (12th), 01.43.43.09.06. Mº Gare de Lyon Les GrAnDes mArChes - brAsserie (€€). A new ownership and a new décor have come to this pillar of the Place de la Bastille. The establishment serves up traditional French fare and superb seafood platters. Tuck into a tasty French onion soup or foie gras to start, followed by cod fillet in a lemon butter sauce or a prime cut of beef. Daily B, L&D. 6 Place de la Bastille (12th), 01.43.42.90.32. Mº Bastille

Around MontPArnAsse (13th, 14th, 15th) Le bAr à huÎtres - seAfooD (€€€). This is the place to go for fabulous seafood platters, finely prepared fresh fish dishes and one of the best and most eclectic selections of oysters in the French capital. Main course dishes include French sea bass, lobster from Brittany and filet of beef. Daily, noon-midnight. 112 blvd Montparnasse (14th), 01.43.20.71.01. Mº Vanvin Le CieL De pAris - Gourmet (€€€). Discover Paris from the 56th floor of the Montparnasse tower. With a breathtaking view, enjoy one of their foie gras offerings or try the delicious seafood. Alternatively, opt for a glass of bubbly or a champagne cocktail in their Champagne Bar. Daily L&D. 33 ave du Maine (15th), 01.40.64.77.64. Mº Montparnasse Le GAstroquet - CLAssiC frenCh (€€€). This cosy comfortable restaurant serves up delicious traditional French cuisine. You can sample some briny oysters for starters or a salad of coquilles SaintJacques. Main courses include sautéed turbot and veal liver in a candied lemon sauce. The iced mousse whiskey and Baileys is an original dessert choice. Mon-Sat L&D. 10 rue Desnouettes (15th), 01.48.28.60.91. Mº Convention/Porte de Versailles Le quinzieme - fusion (€€€). One-star star chef Cyril Lignac’s restaurant serves a market-based cuisine of deliciously prepared classics. All inclusive

discovery, tasting and champagne menus are also on the agenda. Tues-Fri L&D, Sat D. 14 rue Cauchy, (15th), 01.45.54.43.43. Mº Javel

troCAdéro & Porte MAiLLot (16th, 17th) bon - fusion (€€€). Asian inspiration and international influences abound in this restaurant styled like a private home and decorated by Philippe Starck. Enjoy spicy vegetables, a wide selection of rolls, or a Dim Sum for starters then move onto black cod or sole tempura. Daily L&D. 25 rue de la Pompe (16th), 01.40.72.70.00. Mº La Muette CristAL room bACCArAt - moDern CLAssiC (€€€). A restaurant in the palatial headquarters of the crystal manufacturer, serving rich modern cuisine: lobster thermidor, dessert ravioli with cocoa, parmesan and raisins. Mon-Sat L&D, reservations only. 11 Place des Etats-Unis (16th), 01.40.22.11.10. Mº Boissière Le GrAnD bistro sAint ferDinAnD - bistro (€€). This family-style bistro specialises in an allinclusive menu with aperitif, starter, main course, dessert, coffee and bottle of wine for two. Oysters, foie gras, wild sole and duckling from Challans are all on the agenda. Daily L&D. 275 blvd Pereire (17th), 01.45.74.33.32. M° Porte Maillot JAmin - CLAssiC frenCh (€€). The legendary Parisian restaurant is enjoying a renaissance, serving fine food in warm surroundings complemented by welcoming service all of which has earned it two Michelin forks. Alain and David welcome you to enjoy a market-oriented menu. Highlights include authentic snails from Burgundy and blanquette, traditional rich French veal stew. Reservations highly recommended. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat, D only. 32 rue de Longchamp (16th), 01.45.53.00.07. Mº Trocadéro L’AuberGe DAb - CLAssiC frenCh (€€€). Ample leather wall seats, bay windows, salmon drapes make for a most comfortable dining experience. Start off with some snails from Burgundy or a crab and endive salad seasoned with curry followed by the duck breast in honey and spices. Daily L&D. 161 ave de Malakoff (16th), 01.45.00.32.22. Mº Porte Maillot LiLi - Chinese (€€€). This restaurant serving authentic Cantonese cuisine is located in a beautiful décor inside the Peninsula hotel. Exellent dim sum, dumplings and steamed pork buns are among the delicious starters while main dishes include a fullrange of barbecued meats and poultry and wokfried filet of sole. Daily L&D. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.50. M° Charles de Gaulle-Etoile L’oiseAu bLAnC - CLAssiC frenCh (€€€). This restaurant, bar and terrace on the top floor of the Peninsula hotel features traditional French dishes with a contemporary twist using regional products. Starters include salmon from Isigny marinated in pink berries and mustard while lamb from the Lozère region with garlic is one of the house’s signature main dishes. Daily L&D. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.30. M° Charles de Gaulle-Etoile monsieur bLeu - ContemporArY (€€). This restaurant serves excellent French contemporary fare as well as international dishes. Well-prepared French dishes include steak tartare, frogs’ legs with garlic and parsley and calf’s liver flavoured with pomegranate juice. Tucked inside the Palais de Tokyo its terrace has splendid views of the Eiffel Tower. Daily, continuous from 12pm to 2am. 20 ave du President Wilson (16th), 01.47.20.90.47. M° Iéna shAnG pALACe - Chinese (€€€€). This one-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel serves authentic Chinese cuisine inspired by the culinary traditions of southeast China. The art of Cantonese fine dining comes to life in the main room and three private dining rooms. Thurs-San, L&D. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.92. Mº Iéna

Le CAfé De L’ALmA See page 74

Les GrAnDes mArChes See this page

Le CAfé pouChKine See this page

shAnG pALACe See this page

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W H E R E PA R I S

ENTERTAINMENT BY SANDRA ISKANDER

L’EPICERIE BALLANTINE’S

The winner of Le Bar Project by Ballantine’s, a competition held online to find the ideal concept for a bar, has been unveiled and his unique prize is seeing his bar come to life in the form of a pop-up cocktail bar. The real winners though is anyone who loves discovering new and unique places and enjoying a fun cocktail, because it doesn’t get any more original than Abderrahim El Asfar’s ephemeral bar, L’Epicerie Ballantine’s (Ballantine’s Grocery Shop). Inspired by the founder of Ballantine’s, George Ballantine, who at 19 years old created his first whiskey in a grocery store, the L’Epicerie Ballantine’s is designed to resemble a night market where clients are invited to choose their own ingredients from between the fruits, vegetables and herbs and spices on display. Once they have chosen their produce, the barman will mix them with one of the whiskies from the Ballantine’s collection, creating their very own personalised cocktail. L’Epicerie Ballantine’s is found on the first floor of one of the city’s famous clubs, Le Chacha, and will stay there until the 16th of October, opening from Tuesday to Sunday, 7pm till late. 47 rue Berger (1st), 01 40 13 12 12 76 W H E R E PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2014

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A Cocktail Fit for a Feline Le Bristol Hotel’s famous cat, Fa-raon, has a new companion, Kléopatre, to roam the luxurious halls of the hotel with. To celebrate the arrival of the hotel’s new feline resident, head barman Maxime Hoerth has created a new cocktail to be enjoyed in the chic Bar du Bristol. Kléo’s Milk Punch is a tongue-incheek nod to the cat’s favourite beverage, milk. Served in an old-fashion milk bottle, Kléo’s Milk Punch is made with white cocoa liqueur, vanilla liqueur, absinthe and of course milk. Le Bar du Bristol 112 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 53 43 42 41

CAFE UNIVERSEL Located near the Latin Quarter, this jazz club is a welcoming and intimate setting where the programme changes nightly. Vocal jam sessions are held every Tuesday night. Free concerts are held at 9pm. For full programme go to www.myspace.com/cafeuniversel. 267 rue Saint Jacques (5th), 01.43.25.74.20. RER Luxembourg/Port Royal

CAVEAU DE LA HUCHETTE PHOTO © CAVEAU DE LA HUCHETTE

CAVEAU DE LA HUCHETTE This club, in a vaulted cellar in the heart of the Latin Quarter, has been showcasing fine jazz music for the past six decades. The spot is rife with history, a Masonic lodge in the 18th century, the Knights Templar held meetings at this location in the Middle Ages. Shows change regularly, check website for details. Sun-Thurs entrance fee 13€, Fri-Sat and holiday eves 15€, drinks, 5-8€. www.caveaudelahuchette.fr. 5 rue de la Huchette (5th), 01.43.26.65.05. M° St-Michel DUC DES LOMBARDS One of Paris’ oldest jazz clubs magnificently renovated by Andrée Putman’s collaborator, the talented Elliot Barnes. The decor is completely modern but the inspiration comes from the past as Elliot Barnes based his designs on the rarely played Duke Ellington song, Black Brown Beige. The Duc also boasts one of the best sound-systems in town and is now known as the House of Jazz. Daily performances, live recordings and a healthy mix of jazz man jams make this the address for Jazz. An all-natural menu is also served continuously. Oct 3-4 at 8pm & 10pm Koppel/Colley/Blade. 30€. Oct 7 at 8pm & 10pm Lurrie Bell. 30€. Oct 12 at 8pm & 10pm Avishai Cohen. 30€. Oct 20-21 at 8pm & 10pm Carmen Lundy. 28€. Oct 22-23 Becca Stevens. 30€. For full programme and

JAZZ CLUBS reservations go to www.ducdeslombards.com.

NEW MORNING

42 rue des Lombards (1st), 01.42.33.22.88.

The legendary Parisian venue for jazz both

M° Châtelet

classic and eclectic has hosted the world’s

JAZZ CLUB ETOILE A true temple to jazz since it opened two

jazz greats for two decades: Art Blakey, Dizzy Gillespie, Stan Getz... And it was Chet

decades ago, the club has welcomed the

Baker’s favourite stage in Paris, and his last.

likes of Count Basie, B.B. King, Cab Calloway

Devoted jazz fans come here to listen to two

and Lionel Hampton. Thurs-Sat. Reservations

hours of solid music and the crowd begins to

required. Oct 2-4 Vigon & the Dominos. Oct

accumulate around 8 pm, so come early. Oct

10-11 Let’s Groove. Oct 16-18 Lindsay Tribute

17 at 8:30 Ebo Taylor & The Afrobeat Academy.

Machine. Oct 23-25 The James Brown Tribute

24€. Oct 21-22 Patricia Barber. 27€. Oct 29

Show by Allan Adoté. Check website for

at 8:30pm John Scofield Trio. 27€. Shows

complete programme

change nightly, check website for complete

www.jazzclub-paris.com.

programme. www.newmorning.com.

81 blvd Gouvion Saint-Cyr (17th),

7 & 9 rue des Petites-Ecuries (10th),

01.40.68.30.42.

01.45.23.51.41.

M° Porte Maillot

M° Château d’Eau w w w.wheretr aveler.c o m 77

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CLASSICAL Salle Pleyel

SALLE PLEYEL Oct 9 at 8pm Orchestre de Paris, under the direction of Josep Pons performs Bizet and Lalo. 10-60€. Oct 11 at 8pm Gautier Capuçon & Yuja Wang, the cellist and pianist perform Debussy, Prokofiev and Rachmaninov.10-45€. Oct 22-23 at 8pm Orchestre de Paris, under the direction of Paavo Järvi, performs Strauss. 10-60€. Oct 25 at 8pm The Chicago Symphony Orchestra, under the direction of Riccardo Muti performs Mendelssohn, Debussy and Scriabin. 10-130€. Oct 26 at 4pm The Chicago Symphony Orchestra, under the direction of Riccardo Muti performs Tchaikovsky, Stravinsky and Schumann. 10-130€. For full programme and on-line ticket purchases visit www.sallepleyel.fr. 252 rue du faubourg St-Honoré (8th) 01.42.56.13.13. M° Ternes THEATRE DES CHAMPS-ELYSEES Oct 16 at 8pm Orchestre de Chambre de Paris, under the direction of John Nelson performs Roussel, Chopin and Gounod. 5-55€. Oct 22 at 8pm Rolando Villazon, the tenor performs works by Massenet, Bizet and Donizetti. 5-140€. Oct 31 at 8pm Orchestre de Chambre de Paris, under the direction of Roberto Forés Veses performs a selection of classical music featuring Milos Karadaglic on the guitar. 5-55€. For full programme visit www.theatrechampselysees.fr. 15 ave Montaigne (8th) 01.49.52.50.50. M° Alma-Marceau

ROCK & POP L’OLYMPIA The legendary music hall of Bruno Coquatrix. Oct 1, 3-4, 6-7 at 8pm Joan Baez. 56.50-95€. Oct 20 at 8pm Elvis Costello. 56.50-89.50€. For full programme see www.olympiahall.com. Tickets at FNAC: www.fnac.com or call 08.92.39.04.90. 28 blvd des Capucines (9th), 08.92.68.33.68. M° Opera LE TRABENDO This clubby glass walled concert hall seating 700 attracts jazz and rock and roll greats from all over the world. Oct 7 at 8pm Youngblood Brass Band. 24.20€. Full programme at www.trabendo.fr. Tickets at www.fnac.com. Parc de la Villette, 211 ave Jean Jaurès (19th), 08.92.68.36.22. M° Porte de Pantin

Catch Pharrell Williams live at Le Zénith LE ZENITH Launched over 25 years ago, this theatre has become a mythical venue for fine music. Oct 13-16 at 8pm Pharrell Williams. 67.50€. Oct 30-31 Lady Gaga. Price unavailable. Full schedule and programme at www.zenith-paris.com. Tickets at FNAC: www.fnac.com 08.92.68.36.22. Parc de la Villette, 211 ave Jean Jaurès (19th). M° Porte de Pantin THEATRE LE TRIANON One of the capital’s mythical venues. Re-built in 1902, after a devastating fire, it was a favourite haunt of Jacques Brel who wrote some of his lyrics there. Oct 5 at 8pm Tarrus Riley. 33€. Oct 8 at 8pm Clint Mansell. 38.90-49.90€. Oct 28 at 8pm Ryan Leslie. 39.90-45€. For tickets and reservations visit www.fnac.com. 80 blvd Rochechouart (18th), 01.44.92.78.03. M° Anvers

PHARRELL WILLIAMS PHOTO © KEVIN WINTER; SALLE PLEYEL PHOTO © PIERRE-EMMANUEL RASTOIN - SALLE PLEYEL

EGLISE DE LA MADELEINE Oct 4 at 8:30pm Handel/Vivaldi, with orchestra, choir and soloists under the direction of JeanMarc Labylle. 30€. Oct 10 at 8:30pm Verdi, Requiem, with choir, orchestra and soloists under the direction of Hugues Reiner. 20-40€. Oct 17 at 8:30pm Vivaldi/Schubert/Caccini, selections with the Orchestre de Chambre Français under the direction of André Rebacz. 30€. Oct 30 at 8:30pm Chopin, Liszt, Mozart, selections, with orchestra, choir and soloists under the direction of Hugues Reiner. 20-40€. Tickets at the church the day of the concert or bookings at www.fnac.com or www.concerts-sveto.com. Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.64.83.16. M° Madeleine

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ADVERTORIAL

How to become Parisian in one hour? As tourists or expats in Paris there are some quirks we have all noticed among the Parisians, the way they march to their destinations, their constant pouting and the way they order at restaurants. Olivier Giraud, the very talented and handsome comedian, has too, noticed that the Parisians are unique in their behaviour, and has decided to bring all those idiosyncrasies to light.

Having experienced the cultural differences between the Parisians and Americans while in Florida, and having observed for himself the tourists of all nationalities in Paris, he decided to not shy away from the hardhitting questions of how one becomes a real Parisian. How do you grab a waiter’s attention in a café? In the metro, what do you do if you see an older lady or a

pregnant woman? And how do you behave in a cab? Putting together a one man show, How to be Parisian in one hour?, the stand-up comic will leave you rolling in your seat from laughter and 100% prepared for any situation in the City of Light. Entirely performed in English, it is a great show for everyone, including Parisians who will no doubt get a good laugh at themselves.

Non-stop laughter from a real Parisian guaranteed to leave you wanting more.

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100% IN ENGLISH Théâtre des Nouveautés 24 Blvd Poissonnière (9th) Metro: Grands Boulevards From 24€

It is not an easy feat to master the Parisian attitude but Olivier RESERVATION has put together a fail-proof RECOMMENDED guideline of French etiquette +33 (0)6 98 57 45 98 that will leave you embracing or the oh la la factor. www.oliviergiraud.com

pharrell williams photo © Kevin winter; salle pleyel photo © pierre-emmanuel rastoin - salle pleyel

Born in Bordeaux, Olivier moved to Paris to study hotel management and after graduating he moved to the Unites States where he managed a restaurant of a

5-star hotel. After four years, and many soul-searching nights, he decided to return to France and follow his real dream of becoming a comedian.

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W H E R E PA R I S [ E N T E R TA I N M E N T ]

Opéra Garnier

OPERA BASTILLE Oct 3, 7, at 7:30pm & Oct 5, 12 at 2:30pm La Traviata, Verdi’s 3-act opera revolving around Violetta Valéry a courtesan on the verge of dying. 5-210€. Oct 1, 4, 14-15, 20, 23,28, 30 at 7:30pm The Barber of Seville, Rossini’s masterful comic opera in two acts. 5-210€. Oct 10, 13, 16, 22, 24, 27, 29 at 7:30pm & Oct 19, 26 at 7:30pm Tosca, Puccini’s masterpiece based on a melodrama written for

de Keersmaeker. For additional information and

OPERA GARNIER Oct 1, 3-4 at 7:30pm Harald Lander/William Forsythe, three ballets with Etudes by Lander and Woundwork 1 and Pas./Parts by Forsythe. 10-160€. Oct 16, 22, 24, 27, 29 at 7:30pm & Oct 19 at 2:30pm The Abduction from the Seraglio, Mozart’s comic opera set in a Turkish harem. 10-210€. Oct 21, 23, 25, 28, 30-31 at 7:30pm & Oct 25-26 at 2:30pm Rain, an intense and refined work choreographed by Anne Teresa

M° Opéra

reservations visit www.operadeparis.fr. Palais Garnier, Place de l’Opéra (9th), 08.92.89.90.90.

THEATRE DES CHAMPS-ELYSEES Oct 13, 15, 21 at 7:30pm Castor and Pollux, Jean-Phillippe Rameau’s 5-act tragedy in which men mix with the Gods. 5-140€. Tickets and reservations at www.theatrechampselysees.fr. 15 ave Montaigne (8th). Tickets and reservations call 01.49.52.50.50. M° Alma-Marceau

Ballet of Dresden, the company performs a series

The Théâtre National de Chaillot

DANCE

of pieces choreographed by William Forsythe. For tickets and full schedule visit www.theatredelaville.com. 2 place du Châtelet (4th), 01.42.74.22.77.

PALAIS DES CONGRES Oct 24-25 at 8:30pm, Oct 25 at 3pm & Oct 26 at 4pm Carmen Danse, a lively show featuring 100 artists performed by the Siberian National Ballet. 38-72€. Tickets at FNAC: www.fnac.com. Porte Maillot (17th), 08.92.39.04.90. M° Porte Maillot

M° Châtelet THEATRE NATIONAL DE CHAILLOT Oct 9 at 2:30pm, Oct 10 at 8:30pm & Oct 11 at 5pm Romeo and Juliet, conceived by Josette Baïz and performed by 22 dancers aged from 7 to 18. 20€. Oct 10, 17, 18, 24-25, 31 at 8:30pm & Oct 9, 14-16, 21-23, 28-30 at 2:30pm Asa Nisi Masa, miniature choreographic tales in which dancers and animals interact, choreographed by José

THEATRE DE LA VILLE

Montalvo. 20€.

This historic venue in the heart of Paris was

For full programme, reservations and tickets visit

directed by Sarah Bernhardt for 25 years. Its

www.theatre-chaillot.fr.

facade by Gabriel Davioud is a listed historic

1 place du Trocadéro (16th), 01.53.65.30.00.

monument. Oct 28-30 at 8:30pm Semperoper

M° Trocadéro

OPERA GARNIER PHOTO © PARIS TOURIST OFFICE - DAVID LEFRANC; THEATRE NATIONAL DE CHAILLOT PHOTO © PATRICK BERGER

OPERA

Sarah Bernhardt. 5-210€. Full programme visit www.operadeparis.fr. 120 rue de Lyon (12th), 08.92.89.90.90. M° Bastille

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05/09/2014 17:28

W H E R E PA R I S

BARS LE BAR LONG This posh bar located in the Royal Monceau hotel was designed by Philippe Starck and is a perfect spot for a sophisticated cocktail or nightcap in a cosy setting. Patrons should be well dressed. www.leroyalmonceau.com. 37 ave Hoche (8th), 01.42.99.88.00. M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile

The Ballroom This sophisticated cocktail bar, frequented by the beautiful people of the city, serves up carefully mixed drinks in cosy seated areas that make up the three separate rooms of the bar. The establishment is hidden behind an unmarked black door next to its restaurant, The Beef Club. 58 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1st), 09.54.37.13.65. M° Les Halles

LE BRISTOL BAR This discreet and elegant spot is ideal for enjoying cosy drinks. Popular with celebrities and politicians, a variety of original cocktails and a fine selection of champagnes and cognacs are among the offerings. The bar is located in the Bristol Hotel and is open until 1:30am. www.lebristolparis.com. 112 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. M° Miromesnil BUDDHA BAR This trend-setting cocktail bar and restaurant attracts both fashionistas and curious tourists, with a giant golden Buddha presiding over the scene and service that’s cooler-than-thou. 8 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th), 01.53.05.90.00. M° Concorde LE DOKHAN’S CHAMPAGNE BAR A stunning hotel bar replete with Louis Vuitton elevator, artwork by Picasso and candlelight features a fine selection of rare and classic champagnes. In the Radisson Blu Le Dokhan’s Hotel. 117 rue Lauriston (16th), 01.53.65.66.99. M° Victor Hugo

HARRY’S NEW YORK BAR This landmark establishment is a fine place to enjoy drinks at the roomy and friendly bar. The traditional cocktail spot also serves up live piano music starting at 10pm. www.harrysbar.fr. 5 rue Daunou (2nd), 01.42.61.71.14. M° Opéra HOTEL COSTES BAR This chic bar and lounge is an ideal and pricey Parisian spot for people watching. The décor is sumptuous as are the cocktails and the very fine champagne list. www.hotelcostes.com. 239 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.42.44.50.00. M° Tuileries THE ICE KUBE Chill out and sip 4 Grey Goose cocktails at the city’s first ice bar. The establishment provides

you with toasty garments to keep you warm while you enjoy this icily magical setting. Reservations requested. 1-5 passage Ruelle (18th), 01.42.05.20.00. M° La Chapelle MOONSHINER This speakeasy bar near the Place de la Bastille has an ambiance straight out of the 1920s complete with jazz music playing in the background. The barman is friendly and there is also a large fumoir for patrons who enjoy a cigarette with their drink. Daily 6pm-2am. 5 rue Sedaine (11th), 09 50 73 12 99. M° Bréguet-Sabin PARK HYATT PARIS VENDOME BAR This bar serves a wide variety of refreshments including nine champagnes by the glass and 70 different whiskies and house cocktails like the Park Flower and the Purple Mojito. Nibble on tapas prepared by Jean-François Rouquette. 2pm-2am. http://paris.vendome.hyatt.fr. 5 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.58.71.12.34. M° Opéra

LE PERCHOIR This speakeasy is tucked away on a secluded side street in the bustling 11th arrondissement. The rooftop bar offers a stunning view of the city and a relaxed atmosphere for sipping cool cocktails surrounded by a hipster crowd. When the weather gets a bit chilly outdoor heaters and blankets are on-hand. Daily from 4pm-1am. www.leperchoir.fr. 14 rue Crespin du Gast (11th), 01.48.06.18.48. M° Ménilmontant LA VUE A stunning view is to be had by all from the 33rd floor of the Hyatt Regency Paris Etoile hotel, perched on the western edge of Paris. Sit back into the stunning décor highlighted by designer Pier Luigi Copat’s majestic chandelier and sip your drink in a refined ambiance overlooking the city and its lights. 3 place du Général Koenig (17th), 01.40.68.12.34. M° Porte Maillot

BALLROOM PHOTO © KRISTEN PELOU

EXPERIMENTAL COCKTAIL BAR A fun bar hidden in the heart of the 2nd arrondissement where you can enjoy delicious cocktails and cool music. 37 rue Saint Sauveur (2nd), 01.45.08.88.09. M° Sentier

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The Cigar Bar Discover La Maison Champs Elysées’ Cigar Bar, a chic haven for cigar smokers. Open daily from noon to 3.30pm and in the evening from 6pm to 2am, the bar offsets the hotel’s all-white décor with stained oak parquet floors and black bottle-lamps. Designed by Maison Martin Margiela, the space is rich in darkness with large brown leather armchairs completing the English setting for you to sit back and enjoy your cigar. 8 rue Jean Goujon (8th)

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W H E R E PA R I S

NIGHTCLUBS LE BARON You can club until dawn at this celebrated and celebrity filled night spot. Its cabaret-like ambiance – there’s live music- attracts a trendy, elite crowd. Look your best to get past the door. www.clublebaron.com. 6 ave Marceau (8th), 01.47.20.04.01. M° Alma-Marceau CHACHA CLUB This Parisian nightspot plays host to a revolving array of disc jockeys and special guests. The clubby atmosphere is enhanced by a restaurant replete with terrace and private dining rooms. Mon-Sat, 8pm until midnight for the restaurant, until dawn for the club. www.chachaclub.fr. 47 rue Berger (1st), 01.40.13.12.12. M° Louvre-Rivoli CLUB 79 This excellent spot for Parisian clubbing features fine champagne by the bottle, a cocktail of the week and a variety of musical programmes. Chic and trendy. www.club79.fr. 22 rue Quentin Bauchart (8th), 01.47.23.69.17. M° George V

lounge, La Chambre Rouge. Tues-Sat 11pm-6am. 5 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01.42.60.64.45. M° Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre RASPOUTINE This mythical Parisian venue remains an authentic night spot to enjoy cocktails and champagne. The club’s décor, created by the celebrated Russian designer Erté, is listed on the inventory of historic monuments. 58 rue Bassano (8th) 01.47.20.02.90. M° George V LE SHOWCASE Located beneath the Alexandre III bridge, this is a unique venue and as its name implies is a showcase for musical talent providing a clubby atmosphere. Fri-Sat 10 pm-6 am. Pont Alexandre III, Port des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.61.25.43. M° Champs-Elysées Clémenceau SILENCIO This private club, conceived and designed by David Lynch, offers excellent cocktails, wine

and spirits, finger food and food tastings. Nonmembers are admitted after midnight. Members have access to films, concerts and other performances. www.silencio-club.com. 142 rue de Montmartre (2nd) 01.40.13.12.33. M° Sentier/Grands Boulevards LE SOCIAL CLUB Trendy spot for enjoying excellent live music, tasty drinks and even a cigarette in the club’s smoking room. It is advisable to dress up rather than down. Wed 11pm-3am. Thurs-Sat 11pm-6am. For music programme visit www.parissocialclub.com. 142 rue Montmartre (2nd), 06.84.80.99.40. M° Bourse VIP ROOM One of the most exclusive of the clubs on the Parisian nightlife scene.This chic haven for the rich and famous lets you dance the night away to hip hop and house music. 188 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.58.36.46.00. M° Palais Royal

LE DUPLEX Regulars appreciate the clubby and friendly atmosphere at this comfortable Parisian club whose cosy atmosphere is highlighted by Chesterfield armchairs. The huge dance floor here is a dancer’s dream. 2bis ave Foch (16th), 01.45.00.45.00. M° Charles de Gaulle Etoile LA FIDELITE This restaurant turns into a trendy club on Thursdays and Fridays until 2:30am with a revolving array of guest disc jockeys drawing the well-heeled onto the dance floor. www.lafidelite. com. 12 rue de la Fidelité (10th), 01.47.70.19.34. M° Gare de l’Est LE MONTANA This nightclub in the heart of the Saint-Germaindes-Prés neighbourhood is one of the capital’s trendiest and most select spots. The bar is on the ground floor and the dance floor, downstairs, in the vaulted cellars. Popular with the fashion crowd and rock stars, it is a perfect place for people watching, once you’re inside. 28 rue St Benoît (6th), 01.44.39.71.00. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés LE PARIS PARIS This trendy nightclub features live concerts and a refurbished large bar, the Shots Bar, for enjoying shots. The club has a member’s only VIP

Titty Twister This trendy loft-like spot is a chic stopover for drinks, great dancing music and it has the added feature of a smoking room with a pool table. There is a tequila stand along with eclectic cocktails and large size drinks for sharing. Mon-Sat 9pm-5am. www.letittytwister.com. 5 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.50.23. M° George V

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CABARET

Lido CRAZY HORSE A legendary cabaret synonymous with beauty, elegance, sensuality and sophistication. A show performed by 19 exceptionally beautiful dancers, bathed in richly coloured and textured lighting designs. The current show, Désirs is inspired by the endless theme of femininity. Sun-Fri at 8:15 & 10:45 pm, Sat at 7:00, 9:30 & 11:45 pm. The show and half bottle of champagne or 2 drinks: starting at €125. www.lecrazyhorseparis.com. 12 ave George V (8th), 01.47.23.32.32. M° Alma-Marceau

LIDO PHOTO © PICS

LIDO The current show, Bonheur, is a song-anddance spectacular with 70 artists, 23 sets and 600 dazzling costumes. Daily. Show only with half bottle of champagne at 9pm (110€) & 11pm (100€). Dinner & show at 7pm (160-300€). www.lido.fr. 116 bis ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.40.76.56.10. M° George V MOULIN ROUGE This famous cabaret is home to the original cancan. The current show, Féerie, sparkles with talented performers, including the 60 Doriss girls and spectacular staging. Daily. Dinner & show start at 7pm (185-215€); Show only starts at 9pm or 11pm from 122€ (with

drinks). www.moulinrouge.fr. 82 blvd de Clichy (18th), 01.53.09.82.82. M° Blanche MUGLER FOLLIES This sexy review with original songs was put together by Manfred T. Mugler, the designer behind fashion label Thierry Mugler. Dancers, acrobats and singers are joined onstage with comedians, performers and models in a vibrant show that reinvents the traditional cabaret. Dinner and show catered by Fouquet’s starts at 7:30pm, from 119€. Show only with a glass of champagne starts at 8pm, from 79€. Show only starts at 8:45pm (doors open at 8:20), from 39€. www.muglerfollies.com. Le Comédia, 4 blvd de Strasbourg (10th), 01.42.38.22.22. M° Strasbourg-St-Denis PARADIS LATIN Le Théâtre Latin was built in 1803 and quickly became one of the chicest addresses in the Latin quarter. The theatre was re-built by Gustav Eiffel in 1889 and renamed the ‘Paradis Latin’. The current show, Paradis à la Folie!, is a magical feast for the eyes and ears. Daily 8 pm (130-190€ for dinner & show or 90€ for show & half a bottle of champagne). www.paradislatin.com. 28 rue du Cardinal Lemoine (5th), 01.43.25.28.28. M° Cardinal Lemoine/Jussieu w w w.wheretr aveler.c o m 85

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ME R ND . TO ORLY AIRPORT LA M UL ELS ULE LA SO O RT E A EV E HN PL.DE LA UX O N N Alexandre A R Charonne 7/7Ê callÊ E CHAR S RÉUNION D The RER B, direction St-Rémy, connects with O Dumas A M D DE D U UVE E U E Pont R NE RU X Marie I E R Orlyval, an PLACE automatic train, at Antony. Orlyval RONNE RO e RU 06Ê 85Ê 81Ê 09Ê 05 TER A C Porte de EL L E E DE CHA Bastille 4 DRE R. D DE LA R . Montreuil S PORTE DE S TDE DE XAN DE DE A N Truns every R. 5-7 min, S U I L MONTREUIL ALE BASTILLE L A P 6 am-11 pm (8.70€). The OINE O N T RE E CÉ V IL PE M Maraîchers D C R U E E S L LE 0033Ê (0)6Ê 85Ê 81Ê 09Ê 05 RU RUE ST E MR U Opéra ZY INS RER CHAN TIT . DE L Bastille Massy-Verrières connects I V C direction RON Buzenval R. A PE D 'AV RUE DELESCLUZE Rue des DU CER QU BL AI IS A I with R. Boulets R I a shuttle bus that goes to Orly (6.45€). Or VD E D'A N Ledru HE NJ RU S RUE Rollin O E Avron CH AM P EN Sully VO L 'I D GR AN DS LE Morland take Orlybus outside the Denfert-Rochereau B LV IL LT REU DE S T E A N D RU O EB U M IR ÉTH L LY DE RUE E SU UN Métro stop (14th), every 20 min 5:35 am-11 FA U B O U R E DE DE R. IGN É PLAINE G LA RUE UB NT SAINT D'A PO R. MO R NAY pm (7.20€). Air France buses leave from the E Faidherbe IN ANTO R. D MB. R L A S Chaligny É O C . R INE L PRINTEMPS L AG N Y SCH DE RU E ITUT Nation NATION RO Invalides (rue Esnault Pelterie, M° Invalides) the PL.DES ONDE PLACE DE ANTILLES QU Porte de ABE LA NATION RU Vincennes T O C Arc de Triomphe (1 ave Carnot, 17th, M° Etoile) D R Y A L O L A B . R E U D RS DI LE AV For PORTE DEyour wellbeing enjoy P. té DE R. AR D EN IA N DU Quai de e Curie OR B O UL EVReuilly-Diderot PA R R OT (rue UE and GareUEMontparnasse duCHAcommandant V IN C E NVINCENNES RE E D R. AI la Rapée VII ND AV RE NT NES EZ a massage in your hotel room EN N V -V T TO A Gare Montparnasse) de OU ER Mouchotte, M° Gare DI DE RO ÛTE BE N every 20 S VI D T VO Lyon AR Gare CU RN HA LA ER A UC LE VA RD de Lyon R. R T E OU A AR B E Z É D AVE NU E N IT Call Now 7/7 5am-10:40pm from airport 6amRU NT . B E D PO RLminutes, Ménageries RG MO DE RU E SE R. ST SA I N T DE DU AU Picpus R. E T trip/ H 12€ one way, 20€ round AVE Jardin des D'11:40pm (Onboard: MA ND É CH UE OG ILL T Gare R U Montgallet A E C OU R T EL VE S G AL O Plantes LL d’Austerlitz I N E V. ON N D MB GA HUGO Online: 11€ oneRUway, 18€ round VA NT R Atrip). AU ande E MO ME R. MOUSSET DE E R UE S A N TER RE LE PORTE DE uée SN RU ROBERT RU NT AUL R. N O E D Y O www.aeroportsdeparis.fr P ST-MANDÉ IL L G F A aris E RNO E L UIL BUF DE RUE DAGO

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W h e r e pa r i s [ n a v i g at e ] Paris is crossed by 14 Métro lines and five RER (express suburban) lines, all numbered and named for their final destination (terminus). Did you know that there are 300 stations that make up Paris’ metro system?

Each Métro trip requires one ticket regardless of how many transfers you make, though you must buy an extra ticket for the RER outside the city limits. Keep your ticket until you exit.

Tickets are sold in all stations and in cafés (tabacs) with a ticket sign outside, single (1.70€/2€ if purchased on a bus) or by 10 (un carnet - 13.70€). This map includes the new tramway line.

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“Paris Visite” passes offer unlimited travel on the Métro and buses (1day 10.85€, 2-day 17.65€, 3-day 24.10€, 5-day 34.70€). The Métro and RER start running at 5:30am, and stop around 1 am.

While the Métro is an extremely safe way to travel, watch out for pickpockets in crowded trains and stations. For information in English, call the transportation company (RATP) directly at 08.92.68.41.14.

• 44,000 square meters dedicated to luxury, fashion and beauty • A building classified historic monument • High-end services to enjoy a unique shopping experience • A panoramic terrace offering the most stunning view of Paris

• A unique shopping experience in the most beautiful museum in the world • The only luxury department store open 7 days a week, even on Sunday • The best selection of iconic gifts for Accessories & Beauty

Haussmann. ��, boulevard Haussmann. �� Paris — Tél : + ��(�)� �� www.printemps.com Louvre. ��, rue de Rivoli. �� Paris Tél : + ��(�)� �� www.printemps.com

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[The View from here]

My Paris

If one of our readers is only in Paris for 24 hours what one thing would you recommend they do? Visit Paris on an open bus in order to not risk

Take in a show at the Moulin Rouge

missing out on anything and visit Notre Dame, Eiffel Tower, Louvre, and finish with a dinner on a Bateaux-Mouches dinner cruise.

For our readers who are looking for a traditional Parisian bistro serving authentic French fare, where would you book them a table? At a famous chef’s table who knows how to

As the fashion capital, which areas do you think showcase the best fashions?

treat fresh products, such as Alain Ducasse at

The Madeleine area and rue du Faubourg Saint-

thierry

reVel

For a couple in love where would you recommend they go for a romantic dinner?

head Concierge hôtel de Paris monte-Carlo Where recently sat with the Head Concierge of Hotel de Paris Monte Carlo to pick his brain on where and what our readers should go and see while visiting the French capital

Robuchon in his Atelier, Yannick Alléno at the

It’s not always easy for our readers to find somewhere fun to head to at 2am, where would you recommend they party till dawn?

Terroir Parisien and Jean-François Piège in his

I am not accustomed

restaurant on rue Saint Dominique.

to Paris by night, but

the Meurice Hotel or at the Eiffel Tower, Joël

Dinner on a Bateaux-Mouches to discover Paris by night and the Tour d’Argent or the Jules Verne for their quality of food.

What have you recently discovered in Paris that you would advise guests to see? I rediscovered the Moulin Rouge, an enchanting and dazzling show.

What is a location in Paris that pleasantly surprised you? The Petit Palais where numerous original work of arts are exhibited. It’s like a small Louvre, without the queue.

according to the advise

Paris is well-known for its magnificent monuments, from where would you suggest our readers get the best view of the city?

from my Clefs d’Or

From the Eiffel Tower or from the Sacré Cœur.

Room, Castel and Queen.

colleagues in Paris, I would suggest discovering the VIP

The Sacré Coeur

Where would you recommend our readers go to celebrate a birthday party or a bachelor/bachelorette party? I do not know Paris well enough but

I read that inside the Opera building there was quite an original restaurant.

My perfect day 9am Visit the Louvre 12pm Spend the day shopping in the department stores 3pm Take a tour on a bus or a boat 9pm Enjoy a dinner and show at the Moulin rouge Glide along the Seine aboard a Bateaux Mouches

where

Your Guide to the World

The magnificent Eiffel Tower

Honoré for the famous fashion brands.

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/ 3690 - N. Buisson - Alcohol can damage your health, drink with moderation.

AN EXPERIENCE OF FRENCH STYLE LUXURY

An unforgettable moment in the heart of Paris Yachts de Paris combines the spirit of yachting with the French ‘art of living’. Choose absolute luxury aboard the CACHEMIRE for a private dinner or opt for the DON JUAN II restaurant, the charm and discreet elegance of which will win you over. On board, enjoy Chef Guy Krenzer's (‘Meilleur Ouvrier de France’) cuisine while you marvel at a spectacle that only Paris can offer. An irresistible voyage beyond time.

EST PORT HENRI IV 75004 PARIS • +33 (0) 1 44 54 14 71 • RESERVATIONS.DJ2@YDP.FR • WWW.YDP.FR • OUEST PORT DE JAVEL HAUT 75015 PARIS

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