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Paris Coloured by
deSIGNer CaStelbajaC FA SHION • ARTS & AT TR AC TIONS • dININg • eNTeRTAINmeNT • m ApS
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pERSonAliSE youR pARiS AT whERETRAVElER.CoM
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Paris | CONTENTs
The guide 26 Shopping
The city’s latest boutique openings, trends and address book for everything fashion related 62 ARTS & ATTRACTionS
This month’s round-up of exhibits and attractions 74 Dining
Our selection of restaurants for every mood and every taste 94 EnTERTAinMEnT
This month’s hottest bars, clubs and events 106 nAVigATE
Your guide to getting around the city with maps and transport listings NO V E MBE R 2 0 14 ®
PA R IS M O N T H LY C I T YGU I DE
ParIS - eNGlISH edItIoN
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Hot Dates
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The Perfect Imperfectionist
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Meet designer Jean-Charles de Castelbajac and see what inspires him
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Paris Coloured by deSIGNer CaStelbajaC FA SHION • ARTS & AT TR AC TIONS • dININg • eNTeRTAINmeNT • m ApS
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Wonderful Watches
Turn to page 14 to meet Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, the designer that has coloured the world in primary colours for the past 45 years.
Discover the array of sophisticated timepieces, from GTMs to the Tourbillons
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ParIS MoNtHly CIt yGuIde
This month’s calendar of must-see events
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Cover Illustration © Jean-Charles de Castelbajac
Picasso, The Return
Paris 114 My Head Concierge Olivier Rouy
ConnECT wiTh uS onlinE
shares his favourite things about the city of Paris Sophisticated Paris. p. 40
Facebook.com/whereparismagazine Twitter.com/whereparis
photo © luigi di donna
Walk into the creative world of Pablo Picasso
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We perfect this watch by hand. Even the parts that you can’t see.
Even though you will probably never actually see most of the levers,
stringent artisanal and aesthetic standards. Its brilliant colours and
wheels, and springs in the Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase calibre,
crisp texture details are achieved with a patented coating process.
Lange’s master watchmakers meticulously perfect them by hand.
The result is an intensely blue surface on which 382 sharply con-
The lunar disc made of solid gold must also comply with the most
toured stars stand out in vibrant contrast. www.alange-soehne.com
You are cordially invited to discover the collection at: A. Lange & Söhne Paris · Dubail · 19 rue de la Paix · +33 142 65 68 71
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Welcome to Paris
the team | where PariS
35 rue des Mathurins 75008 Paris, France Tel: +33 (0)1 43 12 56 56 Fax: +33 (0)1 43 12 56 57
WHERE PARIS PROJECT IS ENDORSED BY
PUBLISHER and GEnERaL manaGER
A Note from the editor This issue marks the 250th issue of Where Paris and to celebrate this milestone we bring our readers a more luxurious magazine with more fashion, more restaurants and more fabulous things to discover in the French capital. This month we introduce you to iconic fashion designer Jean-Charles de Castelbajac who is known for his love of colour and unique flair. The designer who celebrates his birthday this month, not only shares with Where his love for design but has also graced our cover with a unique illustration he did just for us to celebrate our sophisticated makeover. We also bring you the best of timepieces offered by the most coveted names in watch making and we take you to the Picasso museum, which recently re-opened to the public. and in our luxury fashion section we bring you our sophisticated Paris photo shoot where you will be inspired by the fashion capital’s latest trends.
Pascal Tranchant* Tel: +33 (0)1 43 12 56 42
EdITOR Sandra Iskander* GROUP aRT dIRECTOR Tim Benton PROdUCTIOn manaGER/LOndOn Melanie Needham SEnIOR PROdUCTIOn aSSISTanT Jennifer Bourne PROdUCTIOn aSSISTanT David Weeks COnTRIBUTInG WRITERS Alexander Lobrano, Patricia Valicenti* dESIGnER and PROdUCTIOn manaGER Céline Février* GRaPHIC dESIGn manaGER Laura Zaharia* FaSHIOn PHOTOGRaPHER Luigi Di Donna SHOPPInG maPS ILLUSTRaTOR Aline Zalko SaLES dIRECTOR Jean-Louis Roux-Fouillet
jeanlouis.rouxfouillet@wheremagazine.com advERTISInG - SEnIOR aCCOUnT manaGERS Corinne Durant*, Jana Herrmann* advERTISInG - aCCOUnT manaGER Delphine Ivanchenko* Publicité Secteur Marché de l’Art HELIUM Publicité Tel: 01 48 01 86 86 contact@heliumpublicite.fr dISTRIBUTIOn and HOTEL SERvICES manaGER Suzanne Tang* SaLES & maRKETInG aSSISTanT Jennifer Groult* OFFICE manaGER Emmanuelle Marquet* *E-maIL FOR aLL OF THE aBOvE FIRSTnamE.LaSTnamE@WHEREmaGazInE.COm
MOrriS ViSiTOr PUBLiCaTiONS
MVP i EUROPE manaGInG dIRECTOR EUROPE Chris Manning
MVP i EXECUTiVE PRESIdEnT Donna W. Kessler
MVP i CREATiVE
Paris’s nightlife has also been re-injected with chic hotspots with the highly anticipated reopening of the L’arc nightclub, which was designed by superstar Lenny Kravitz, and the reopening of the Plaza athénée hotel bar. We hope you enjoy our new look and our recommendations on what to do and see, and more importantly we hope you love your time in Paris.
Sandra Iskander [Editor]
CHIEF CREaTIvE OFFICER Haines Wilkerson dESIGn dIRECTOR Jane Frey CREaTIvE COORdInaTOR Beverly Mandelblatt
MOrriS COMMUNiCaTiONS CHaIRman & CEO William S. Morris III PRESIdEnT William S. Morris IV
Plan ahead for your next visit to Paris, subscribe to Where® Magazine : annual 12 issues €80 (France), €96 Europe, €132 (outside Europe). Contact : Emmanuelle Marquet Tel : +33 (0)1 43 12 56 41 E-mail : emmanuelle.marquet@wheremagazine.com Edité par Where Paris sNC. société en nom collectif constituée le 26 mai 1993 au capital de €1.725.795. Durée 99 ans. 391 247 251 rCs Paris. représentant légal: Chris Manning. Tirage: 54,080 (OJD 2013). N° de issN: 1241-8625. Dépôt légal: novembre 2014. reproduction interdite sauf accord préalable. Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. all rights reserved. reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. Where® is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications.
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November
HOT DATES Discover the best of this month in Paris
30 sunDAY
Last Minute Shopping Before boarding your flight take advantage of the upmarket boutiques located at the Paris airports, and with your luggage already checked in you won’t have to worry about extra weight. Visit www.aeroportsdeparis.fr for a list of all the boutiques and brands.
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PARIS THIS MONTH
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Miwa’a Little Paradise Under the covered passageways of Bercy Village discover Miwa Nishimura’s My Little Paradise. The Japanese artist’s photographs are inspired by the innocence of childhood and feature miniature clones of the artist herself. The photo exhibit is free to the public. Cour Saint-Emilion (12th), 08 25 16 60 75
ADP Photo © Carlotta; Miwa’s My Little Paradis Photo © Miwa Nishimura; Alexandre III bridge © istock/Thinkstock
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Sexy Fashion and High Tea Discover La Perla’s sexy cruise collection, La Perla Mare 2015, while you enjoy a glass of champagne and French pastries as part of Le Bristol Hotel’s Samedis de la Mode (Saturdays of Fashion). Book your fashionable teatime table at 01 53 43 43 42. Le Bristol Hotel, 112 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th)
Under the Bridge Cocktails Take in the breathtaking City of Light from under the Pont Alexandre III bridge at Le Faust. The outdoor café bar is one of the perfect spots in the French capital to enjoy a glass of wine as you take in the beauty of the lights reflecting on the River Seine. Under the Pont Alexandre III (Left Bank side) w w w.w he re t r ave l e r. com 11
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Frimousses de Créateurs Help UNiCEF raise funds to vaccinate children in Darfur and make a bid to buy one of the designer dolls and artwork created by celebrated fashion designers and artists that will be exhibited at the Théâtre du Châtelet from the 18th to the 23rd of November before being auctioned off on Monday the 24th at artcurial.
The Fashionable Fifties
2
sunday This is your last chance to
see american artist David LaChapelle’s series of photos entitled Land scape. Hosted by Galerie Daniel Templon, the photos are inspired by industrial landscapes and feature oil rigs and petrol stations.
take in Les années 50, an exhibition showcasing the fashions of the 50’s at the city’s fashion museum, Palais Galliera. Walking you through the designs of one of the most important and changing times in fashion, the exhibit features emblematic pieces from Chanel, Christian Dior and Jacques Fath. a fashionable walk through history, this exhibit also highlights the evolution of models’ shapes in the fashion industry as well as highlighting pieces that have remained a staple, including the classic Chanel bag.
30 rue Beaubourg (3rd), 01 42 72 14 10
10 ave Pierre 1er de Serbie (16th), 01 56 52 86 00
Coloured Landscapes
Trade Shows & Art Fairs saT-sun 1-2 FOIRe d’auTOMne There is something for everyone at this leading autumn rendezvous. Home décor and improvement, cuisine, well-being and leisure are all on the agenda. The show is open from 10am-7pm. www.foiredautomne.fr Paris Expo blvd Victor, Porte de Versailles (15th)
saT-sun 1-2 saLOn du CHOCOLaT This is a heavenly show where chocolate is the guest of honour. Exhibitions, workshops, tastings and a fashion show are on the programme and this year the event is celebrating its 20th birthday. Doors are open from 10am to 7pm. www.salonduchocolat.fr Paris Expo blvd Victor, Porte de Versailles, (15th)
THuRs-MOn 6-10 saLOn InTeRnaTIOnaL du PaTRIMOIne CuLTuReL This original trade show offers a journey into the world of cultural
heritage sites and the 40 professions involved in the arts and crafts that sustain them. The show is open from 10am-7pm and until 6pm on the 9th. www.patrimoineculturel.com Carrousel du Louvre, 99 rue de Rivoli (1st)
THuRs-sun 6-16 anTIQuITes BROCanTes This fair brings together some 280 antique and bric-a-brac dealers displaying paintings, sculptures, bibelots, tapestries, decorative objects, and more. This show’s theme is the hundredth anniversary of World War i. The show is open from 11am-7pm.
at 7pm on the 13th, at 9pm on the 14th, at 8pm on the 15th and at 5pm on the 16th. Hôtel de l’Industrie, 4 place Saint-Germain-des-Prés (6th)
THuRs-MOn 13-17 saLOn de La PHOTO This popular show is devoted to the latest evolutions in photography and is geared for both amateurs and professionals. it offers encounters with leading photographers working in the field. The show is open from 10am-7pm on the 13th, 14th and 16th, from 9am to 7pm on the 15th and from 10am to 6pm on the 17th.
www.joel-garcia-organisation.fr Place de la Bastille (12th)
www.lesalondelaphoto.com Paris Expo, blvd Victor, Porte de Versailles (15th)
THuRs-sun 13-16 saLOn Mes CReaTeuRs JOaILLIeRs
FRI-sun 21-23 BeLLes MOnTRes
This new jewellery fair showcases the arts and crafts techniques used in French jewellery making. some 30 exhibitors will show the pieces that they design and create themselves in France. Unique and made to measure works are hallmarks of their designs. The show opens at 11am and closes
www.salonbellesmontres.fr Carrousel du Louvre, 99 rue de Rivoli (1st)
step into a showcase for superb watches and timepieces exhibited by the most prestigious of time keeping manufacturers. Discover, at your leisure, the universe of time from 10am to 7pm.
Land Scape Photo © David LaChapelle, Courtesy Galerie Daniel Templon, Paris & Brussels; Christian Dior, robe du soir “Marivaux” P/E 1954. Ottoman de soie bleu très pâle, bustier brodé de soie polychrome et paillettes © Eric Emo / Galliera / Roger-Viollet; Salon de la Photo Poster Photo © Elene Usdin.
MOnday
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Interview
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THE PERFECT IMPERFECTIONIST Sportsoir, Jean-Charles de Castelbajac’s autumn/winter 2014/2015 collection, is a defilé of stars, stripes and plenty of character just as you would expect from the talented and colourful fashion designer. He is one of the very few designers who are still behind his fashion house today and even after 45 years in the industry JCDC is still as passionate and colourful as ever. By Sandra Iskander
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Illustration © Christophe Chevalin
xplaining that his designs “come from logos [and] slogans”, JCDC believes in short but very precise messages, and that fashion is a medium for such messages. “I love efficiency, when a message doesn’t need a speech to send something across, something [that is] easily read, whether it be by a child or an older person.” And his love of simplicity extends to his colour palette, explaining, “My principle is to always work with the same colours. I only know 3 colours, the primary colours, blue, yellow and red, sometimes there is orange and green but I think with limitations freedom is born, I believe Mozart once said that. My first inspiration came from stained glass windows from when I used to go to mass, [and] then came the badges, logos, flags, always those colours. I never worked with pastels, never in the 45 years of my career, sometimes I work with black. I like black as I have a rock’n’roll side [to me] and it also livens up my colours. I never wanted to work other colours, it’s something in me.” Once described as a designer who was “antifashion”, JCDC now leads the trendsetters, influencing other artists. Always experimenting and bringing his love of art to his fashion, the designer refers to himself as a pop fashion designer and more of a creative director than just a designer and being involved in projects that aren’t necessarily fashion projects yet are still indirectly related to fashion. “Everything is an act of creation. I’m always creating. It is how I survived [when I was younger], when I
didn’t have toys that’s what I did, I was always inventing things,” he explains. Having started designing at a very young age, JCDC quickly became famous and became known for his unique style. Fascinated by American sportswear and its practicality, he started adding pocket detailing to his women’s collections, to which he credits as the reason behind him being chosen to collaborate on Farrah Fawcett’s wardrobe on the set of Charlie’s Angels. The designer remembers, “When I met her [Farrah Fawcett] their [the studio] concept was to create a strong sensual woman, so I asked her to bring me all her sportswear items and I took them and I reduced everything in size, so everything was turned into strong, feminine w w w.wheretr aveler.c o m 15
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Interview
pieces injected with sensuality.” and this love for beautiful practicality is the inspiration for his spring/summer 2015 collection, 74, which he says is “almost a retro-futurism collection” with a prediction of what 2074 will bring and a glimpse back to 1974, revealing, “1974 is the year i feel creativity was completely free.” admitting that he “always liked things that weren’t perfect, that’s why i didn’t continue with my haute couture collection,” the humble designer explains that he feels “perfection is suspicious. i got into fashion because of the stories, the history of each piece. i don’t like fashion as just a [product of] consumption. “Today i want to create pieces to protect and to seduce. For next summer that is what i will show, limited in colour, with a lot of white. an american college look infused with sensuality. The idea of function, to be a woman without being fragile by the clothing, that is the look of the collection. My clients are free and strong, young girls and older women, they are women who dare, who are full of character. in my collections i feel that my pieces do not date, they are still relevant now, with each piece i tell a story, a story of my life. i love the closeness to people i have with my clothes and i consider a designer is obligated to give people beautiful things, to bring happiness. Fashion touches people more intimately than any other form of art [and] the best gift for a designer is to be close to the people,” explains the designer who in 1997 designed rainbow-coloured costumes for Pope John Paul ii and 5000 priests for World Youth Day. Believing that “an artist has a role to give hope to lost people”, big-hearted and generous, JCDC who is known as much for his illustrations as for his fashion designs, has submitted two drawings, Le Temps des Cerises and La Cascade, to UNiCEF to help raise funds to vaccinate children in Darfur. Joining other designers, including Karl Lagerfeld, sonia rykiel and Jean Paul Gaultier who have designed dolls for the annual Frimousses de Créateurs event, which sees designers and artists create dolls and pieces of artwork to be auctioned off to help the cause. “i love the young and i love to help. i have been involved with them [UNiCEF] for years and i love to draw, so it was a natural involvement. Drawing was always my companion, it was something i always did. My pen is my world. as long as i have a pen i am free. When i begin drawing it just comes out, i never think about what i’m going to draw, i don’t know how to explain it, i see things that others don’t.”
Jean-Charles de CastelbaJaC boutique 61 rue des Saints- Pères (6th), 09 64 48 48 54 Frimousses de Créateurs The designer dolls and artwork will be exhibited at the Théâtre du Châtelet from the 18th to the 23rd of November with the auction taking place on Monday the 24th at Artcurial.
théâtre du Châtelet 1 place du Châtelet (1st), 01 40 28 28 28 artCurial 7 rond-point des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 42 99 20 20
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Unique dolls and art works created to immunize children in Darfur.
Théâtre du Châtelet :
EXHIBITION from November18th to 23rd, 2014
AUCTION SALE By ARTCURIAL
on Monday, November 24th, 2014
www.frimoussesdecreateurs.fr
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Watches
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WONDERFUL WATCHES By Patricia Valicenti
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3 ROLEX’S OYSTER PERPETUAL GMT-MASTER I
4 LONGINES’ CONQUEST 24 HOURS
This new version of the Oyster perpetual GMT– Master II is equipped with a two-colour Cerachrom bezel insert in red and blue, a colour combination long considered to be impossible to create in ceramic. The Rolex Cerachrom bezel inserts are virtually scratch resistant, highly corrosion-resistant and their colour is unaffected by ultraviolet rays. It is fitted out with a solid-link Oyster bracelet in 18-carat white gold.
This watch with its robust and elegant stainless steel case has a diameter of 41mm that houses a self-winding mechanical movement. The sapphire glass with antireflective coating on the underside protects a dial that is black, silvered or blue with two applied Arabic numerals and 9 applied indices. It is water resistant to 50 metres.
The GTM’s 1 OMEGA’S SEAMASTER PLANET OCEAN This innovative wristwatch with its Co-Axial calibre pays tribute to the GoodPlanet Foundation and the work it does for the environment. This model whose colours are inspired from the ocean was designed for extreme adventurers and is water resistant to 600 metres. A portion of the proceeds from this watch is donated to GoodPlanet.
2 WEMPE’S ZEITMEISTER GLASHÜTTE I SA WORLD TIME WATCH This automatic men’s wristwatch features a world time display and contains a chronometer-certified movement in its sleek contemporary 42mmdiametre stainless steel case. The watch simultaneously displays the time in every part of the world, making it perfect for travellers but also for those who are in the office working with the rest of the planet.
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Watches
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The Tourbillons 5 TAG Heuer’s MonAco V4
6 JAeGer-LecouLTre’s MAsTer GyroTourbiLLon
7 THe bLAck Tie PiAGeT eMPerAdor coussin XL
This is the world’s first watch tourbillon to be driven by belts. its polished titanium grade five case and black titanium carbide coating is doted with bevelled sapphire crystal glass with double sided anti-reflective treatment to ensure the best possible readability. its movement is composed of 214 components, while the watch has 46 jewels and its tourbillon makes one rotation per minute. The timepiece has a power reserve of 40 hours.
This intriguing watch is one of the 12 models in the house’s Hybris artistica collection born from a blend of design, technical construction, the art of watch making and exquisite craftsmanship. The complicated watches are presented in specially crafted, sophisticated cases. This model’s stunning dial is made from a completely skelentonised aventurine plate retaining only openwork stone encrusted with sparkling flecks.
This elegant bracelet watch brought out in a limited edition of 18 pieces, blends Piaget’s expertise in the field of ultra-thin movement with its development of calibres with complications that are increasingly innovative and creative. This ultra-thin tourbillon self-winding watch has one of the thinnest profiles on the watch market and is fashioned with the precious metals of platinum, pink gold and red gold.
8 iWc’s PorTuGuese TourbiLLon MysTère reTroGrAde This handsome tourbillon is doted with a mechanical iWC manufactured movement with a Pellaton winding system and seven-day power reserve, a retrograde date display and a flying minute tourbillon made up of 81 parts. The 18-carat red gold version is a limited edition of 500 pieces.
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Magical Movements 9 Hublot’s tourbillon skeleton titanium This gripping skeleton watch has a 45mm classic fusion case and a bezel in vertical satinfinished titanium. Beneath the sapphire are the polished Rhodium-plated appliqués and hands. The watch, which is water resistant to 30 metres, has a manufacture manual-winding tourbillon chronograph movement.
!0 ZenitH’s el Primero CHronomaster 1969 CHronograPH
!1 riCHard mille’s 52-01tourbillon skull nano CeramiC
An emblematic dial opening reveals the beating heart of the movement of this new version of the El Primero. This model houses a new automatic chronograph movement entirely developed, fine-tuned and produced in-house at Zenith. Like all El Primero movements it beats at the exceptional frequency of 10 vibrations per second and is thus able to measure 1/10th of a second. The chronograph comes in a 42mm-diametre steel case.
This is the second piece in the emblematic skull collection that was launched in 2012. The watch features the intriguing Richard Mille skull design and has a manual winding tourbillon movement with hours and minutes. For the case, an unprecedented composite material known as nano-ceramic was employed. This watch has been released as a limited edition of 30 nanoceramic timepieces featuring an 18-carat red gold skull.
!2 Panerai’s tourbillon skeleton PoCket WatCH This timepiece, Pocket Watch Tourbillon GMT Ceramica, pays tribute to the long history of the Officine Panerai, which in Florence in the 19th century exhibited Swiss pocket watches in its store window. This is the house’s first pocket watch. Its 59mm Radiomir case welcomes the manual winding movement, which appears to be suspended in its centre as one looks at it through its skeleton face.
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Interview
Picasso, The reTurn
One of the crown jewels of Parisian art collections re-opened to the public last October, offering a journey into the exhilaratingly creative world of Pablo Picasso. By Patricia Valicenti
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AutoportrAit [Fin 1901] Huile sur toile 81 x 60 cm DAtion en 1979 inv.: mp4 © musée picAsso pAris/BéAtrice HAtAlA © succession picAsso; lA Flûte De pAn [eté 1923] Huile sur toile 205 x 174 cm DAtion en 1979 inv.: mp79 © rmn-Gp/JeAn Gilles Berizzi © succession picAsso; FiGures Au BorD De lA mer [12 JAnvier 1931] Huile sur toile 130 x 195 cm DAtion en 1979 inv.: mp131 © musée picAsso pAris / BéAtrice HAtAlA © succession picAsso; tHe Hôtel sAlé pHoto © BéAtrice HAtAlA
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T
he Musée Picasso Paris, after a five-year renovation, is welcoming visitors into luminous spaces in a mansion of palatial proportions to gaze upon the eternal works of Pablo Picasso. The surfaces devoted to exhibition space and activities for the general public have been more than doubled allowing for more of the vast collection to be shown.
draw until the last instant of his life or almost,” said Laurent Le Bon, the president of the Picasso museum of Paris in an interview. The museum, which is a national museum, was created in 1985 to present the ensemble of works given to the French state by the heirs of the artist in 1979. The gift of the works to the state was a dation in payment, a way in France for paying inheritance taxes with works of art. His heirs gave the French state the first choice amongst the some 70,000 works kept in the artist’s studios.
One discovers again his Trois Femmes à la Fontaine, painted in the classical style in 1921 in Fontainebleau, the Flûte de Pan, painted in Antibes in 1923 and the dazzlingly beautiful “He held on to his works, “We have the capacity monumental collage of he didn’t like to let go to study the creative Femmes à leur toilette, of them, it is called his process of Picasso, to 1937-1938, which has collection, the Picassos of enter into the heart of travelled the world. Picasso. The state had the the genius of Picasso” Some 5000 works and first choice. So what forms masterpieces of Picasso the core of this collection make up the exceptional collection including is the best of Picasso, the best that remained,” 4000 graphic works, 297 paintings and 307 said Mr. Le Bon. sculptures making the Picasso museum of Paris the most complete of the public collections of The heirs also donated the artist’s personal art Picasso’s works ever assembled. collection in 1973, a collection that includes some 100 works by, among others, Cézanne, “It is one of the rare monographic museums, Degas, Renoir and Matisse. The collection was and there are many in the world, that gives the further embellished with a second dation in opportunity to explore the entire breadth of payment from the daughter of Jacqueline the work from the beginning when he began Picasso in 1990, enriching it with the artist’s drawing, as he [Picasso] said like Rafael, at the works of the 1960s to the 1970s. And last July age of 5 until his death in 1973. He continued to the artist’s daughter Maya Widmaier Picasso
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“I believe that we are lucky with the new Picasso museum being in a renovated private mansion, so we have the capability of providing hospitality... It is like being welcomed into a home”
The family had also entrusted to the state Picasso’s personal archives of some 200,000 pieces in 1978, in view of keeping it intact and to facilitate the study of the artist’s work. With 20,000 manuscripts of correspondence and some 15,000 photographs it provides a glimpse into the world of the artist. “We have the capacity to study the creative process of Picasso, to enter into the heart of the genius of Picasso,” said Mr. Le Bon.
Laurent Le Bon, the president of the Picasso museum of Paris
The unparalleled collection dwells in one of the most exquisite private mansions in the city of Paris, the Hôtel aubert de Fontenay, built in the Marais between 1656 and 1660, for Pierre aubert, the man who colleted the salt tax, hence its nickname the Hôtel salé, salé meaning salty in French. With part of it listed as a historic monument, it is a vast and beautiful dwelling with its great central staircase and ornate ceiling and wall sculptures. among its illustrious residents of the 17th century it can count two ambassadors from the Most serene republic of Venice. The museum’s setting further enhances its attractiveness. “i believe that we are lucky with the new Picasso museum being in a renovated private mansion, so we have the capability of providing hospitality,” said Mr. Le Bon adding that, “it is like being welcomed into a home.” “We have the quality of the architecture. it is one of the most beautiful mansions in the Marais, with classical French architecture of the 17th century,” he added. He also underscored the content of the museum saying “it is a fireworks display of masterpieces, we have 400 works on the walls.”
Mr. Le Bon, who also directed the highly successful Centre Pompidou Metz before being named president of the Picasso museum of Paris, amiably answered our request for some suggestions for a cultural itinerary in Paris. if one is able and in good health, a visit to the top of the Eiffel Tower via the stairway instead of the elevator was an unforgettable experience, he explained. in addition to visiting the major museums, Paris has excellent monographic museums like the Musée Gustave Moreau, the Maison Victor Hugo and the Musée Bourdelle, he added. “and to go out into the grander Paris, that sometimes adjoins the peripheral, like the neighbourhood around the Bibliothèque Nationale de France, the activity surrounding the Philharmonic of Paris at the Parc de la Villette. Go out on the fringes,” he said. He suggested discovering the gardens like the Bagatelle in the Bois de Boulogne, which is a part of Paris and which is just footsteps away from the new Fondation Louis Vuitton for contemporary art. and on the other side of town he noted that the newly re-designed Zoo of Vincennes offered a qualitative visit with its proximity to the animals. The Picasso museum has space for children’s workshops and family activities, a 95-seat amphitheatre, a contemplative garden visible from the interior of the museum, a café, and a book and gift shop carrying Picasso-related items including the blue and white striped T-shirts the artist often sported so elegantly. To reserve your ticket and time of visit on line go to www.museepicassoparis.fr
5 rue de Thorigny (3rd), 01 42 71 25 21
Laurent Le Bon, the president of the Picasso Museum of Paris Photo © Béatrice Hatala
donated a recto verso drawing dating from 1908 to the museum and a sketchbook dating from april of 1960.
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Johanna Van Delft, mixed media on canvas, 75 x 75 cm
Lita Cabellut b Black Tulip Collection November 21st - December 11th 2014 www.operagallery.com 356 rue Saint-HonorĂŠ 75001 Paris
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T + 33 (0)1 42 96 39 00
paris@operagaller y.com
Mon.-Sat. 10 am - 7 pm
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The Guide
Shopping
By Sandra Iskander
For Her | Accessories | Jewellery | For Him | Vintage | Beauty | Spas
Printemps department store
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SHOPPING
For Her
Renewing Rochas
Mod Chic by Carven
Having worked with Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, Dice Kayek and Stella Cadente, fashion designer Christophe Guillarmé finally launched his own brand in 1998. The self-proclaimed designer of “ultra feminine style” mixes glam rock and couture detailing, and his autumn/winter 2014/2015 collection perfectly demonstrates his rock couture talents. The collection, Miss Polly, is inspired by French comedy film Qui êtes-vous, Polly Maggoo? (Who are you, Polly Maggoo?), which tells the story of a young model in Paris. Inspired by the lead role, Christophe created a collection featuring a palette of eyecatching colours of fuchsia, turquoise blue and ruby red to create a chic and seductive silhouette.
Rochas’s autumn/winter 2014/2015 collection is all about sophisticated layering. The femininely heavy collection features a colour palette of camels, pastel pink and powder blue, and highlighted by embroidery and gold detailing. Making up the collection are A-line coats and dresses beautifully hanging off the body creating a curvy silhouette. Rochas’s new Creative Director, Alessandro Dell’Acqua, chose for his debut collection to highlight the heritage of the fashion house and still make it relevant for today’s woman by playfully mixing patent leather with velvet and chiffon, creating romantic yet edgy pieces.
French ready-to-wear fashion house Carven is continuing its fashionable comeback thanks to its Creative Director, Guillaume Henry. The designer’s latest autumn/winter 2014/2015 collection is a modern day take on 60’s fashion. Mod-inspired looks make up the collection with A-line skirts, embroidered dresses and enveloping coats with wide belts, cinching in the waist. The collection also features great accessories to pull in the looks including fabulous thigh-high leather boots and a gold water snake clutch bag.
www.christopheguillarme.fr
Available at Printemps
Christophe Guillarmé
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SHOPPING For Her
Jeans for All Popular brand 7 For All Mankind recently opened its third boutique in the French capital. Found in the chic 8th arrondissement, the spacious boutique boasts two floors, with the ground floor showcasing the brand’s collaboration with fashion label Hollywood Trading Company, while the first floor is where you will find the brand’s other collections for both him and her. The streets of LA with its rock chic vibe inspire the capsule collection, which was collaborated on with Hollywood Trading Company, and features leather jackets and stonewash jeans. 7 For All Mankind Boutique 52 rue Pierre Charron (8th), 01 47 23 38 75
Addicted to Shoes He’s known around the world for his tennis shoes and now Serge Bensimon has opened a boutique in the fashionable second arrondissement of the French capital dedicated to the iconic sneaker. Inaugurated during the most important time of the fashion calendar, Paris Fashion Week, the Bensimon Addicted to Love boutique is a space serving as a plateau to showcase the wardrobe staple tennis shoe in the rainbow of colours it is available in. the boutique also offers a small selection of the French designer’s ready-to-wear collection and accessories. Bensimon Addicted to Love Boutique 78 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1st)
VSP Chalayan Inaugurated during Paris Fashion Week, VSP’s flagship boutique has not only marked the luxury brand’s first Parisian flagship store but also celebrated the launch of the house’s collaboration with famed fashion designer Hussein Chalayan. The VSP Chalayan spring/summer 2015 capsule collection, which is in store now, was launched at the official inauguration and features a series of twenty pieces that reinterpret VSP’s signature leather designs. The pieces bring together architectural lines and flowing forms, creating beautiful harmony between VSP’s signature graphic look and Chalayan’s avant-garde designs. VSP Boutique, 19 rue Debelleyme (3rd), 01 42 71 40 40 28 WH ER E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2014
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Great Graf Architect turned designer François-Joseph Graf’s handmade bags are an extension of his architectural talents. Made in his Parisian atelier and presented in his chic showroom boutique on the luxurious Avenue Montaigne, his autumn/winter 2014/2015 collection is a mixture of strong shapes and delicate detailing. Graphic and modern, the bags reflect both his architectural background and his passion for handbags and the savoir-faire of handmade leather goods. Inspired by the Left Bank’s art galleries, his Rive Gauche clutch bag features asymmetrical lines resembling the Carré Rive Gauche logo, while his Eileen Gray clutch is an homage to the Irish designer and architect. 3 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 47 20 53 01
Fringed Elegance Carolina Herrera oozes style and elegance and with that she brings modern detailing to her casual chic CH Carolina Herrera line. The autumn/winter 2014/2015 collection, which features pieces that you can mix and match and allowing you to create your own style includes tailored pants, stylish coats and sexy leather skirts. The sassy sportswear line also features great bags including the Vendôme leather tote bag, which is a favourite of fashionista Olivia Palermo, who recently sported the fringed version. Carolina Herrera Boutique 10 rue de Castiglione (1st), 01 58 62 41 03
Alain Mikli In his only Parisian workshop, Alain Mikli and his craftsmen design at least 300 maquettes of eyewear a year. Only a few of them will be selected to be launched on the market. Each hand-made frame is unique: the design of the material may vary on the overall frame, however, it is under no circumstances a manufacturing defect, but sculpted in the block of material, the frame becomes a work of art. Patented Fit, Alain Miki’s developed fit that enables his frames to be immediately comfortable when the wear tries them. The concept of fit is based on the wearer’s head shape on the points of acupuncture that must not be stimulated when the temples are being shaped. And Amflex hinges is the patented hinge allowing a better distribution of the weight of the frame creating a sensation of freedom, while the Nose Bridge is how Alain Mikli incorporates a universal bridge that adapts to every face shape. Like a flower turning towards the light, this sun collection is ultra-feminine. A cat-eye shape, with a delicate front design and a combination of three colours creates a unique petal effect. These glasses are made up of three acetate layers of different colours and thicknesses. Each layer is gradient, which creates a multi-colour petal effect on the front of the frame. Boutique Alain Mikli Saints-Pères 74 rue des Saints-Pères (7th) 01 45 49 40 00 w w w.w he re t r ave l e r. com 29
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1 . Christian Louboutin’s Alexis Brief Case 68 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 42 68 37 65 2. Vertu’s V Headphones 18 rue Royale (8th), 01 42 86 56 66 3 . Montblanc Leather Case for Samsung’s Galaxy Note 4 152 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 0144 20 07 70 4 . Velvet Rock Chandelier Choker from the Atelier Swarovski by Viktor & Rolf’s collection 146 ave des Champs-Elysees (8th), 01 45 61 13 80
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5 . XBOY Bluetooth Speaker by Xoopar Available at Printemps 6 . Chopard’s L.U.C XPS 18-carat Rose Gold Watch 1 place Vendôme (1st), 01 55 35 20 10 7 . Gaydamak’s One Diamond Hand Bracelets 7 rue de la Paix (1st), 01 58 62 48 52 8 . Burberry’s Heritage Trench Coat for Him 56 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 72 07 00 21 6
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SHOPPING Accessories
All Chained Up This season it is all about being chained when it comes to the hottest trend in accessorising. Michael Kors’s Runway Twist watch from his Glamour Blush collection is a rosecoloured timepiece that features a wide chain bracelet and equally twisted is Nina Ricci’s delicate watch bracelets. Over at Swarovski, the house of crystals, chains have been embraced, this time named Bound. Rose and silver, the chain-inspired necklaces from the Bound collection are bedazzled with crystals, while French jewellery designer Annelise Michelson has become unchained with her Unchained collection with broken chain links creating statement-making cuff bracelets and choker necklaces.
A Star is Born Passionate about the world of moviemaking from a very young age, Caroline Néron pursued her love of cinema and starred in a number of movies before embarking on a musical career. After releasing three albums, Néron discovered her love of jewellery design and in 2004 launched her own jewellery line. Ten years later her designs still reflect her love of both movies and music with collections named Marilyn, Superstar and Elizabeth. Using Swarovski crystals and semi-precious stones the Marilyn collection is old Hollywood glamour while the Superstar and Elizabeth collections are more rock’n’roll. The Caroline Néron collections are available at Galeries Lafayette
Michael Kors Boutique 279 rue Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 70 36 44 40 Nina Ricci Boutique 39 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 40 88 64 51 Swarovski Boutique 146 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 45 61 13 80
Angela Caputi Giuggiu Italian jewellery designer Angela Caputi first set up her workshop in Florence in 1975 where she created colourful and original pieces, showing her unique craftsmanship. Season after season the designer continues to imagine new pieces that reflect her inspirations, and in her gallery-like jewellery boutique here in the fashion capital you will find her latest collection, Lucchetti, meaning padlock in Italian. Symbolising eternal love and fidelity, the designer has interpreted the padlock as a sign of modern day true love and has created a line featuring necklaces of black chains with decorative padlocks, creating a very sexy twist to love and fashion. Entrance at 2 rue du Bouloi or at 19 rue Jean Jacques Rousseau. 15 Galerie Véro-Dodat (1st), 01 40 39 01 51 www.angelacaputi.com
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SHOPPING For Him
British Baker The Ted Baker man is chic, well-dressed and very sharp and the British fashion brand’s latest collection does not disappoint if you are looking to make a subdued yet colourful statement. Famous for its preppy look with quirky detailing, Ted Baker sees men in paisley printed shirts, single breasted blazers and dapper waistcoats this season. Ted Baker Boutique 47 rue Bonaparte (6th), 01 46 33 30 15
City Chic Daniel Hechter’s collection for this season is aptly named Ville (City) as it features pieces that adapt perfectly to urban living. Chic and cool, the collection is made up of classic cuts with a modern twist. The collection’s knitted ties, printed shirts and simple knitwear will take every gentleman from the office to a cigar lounge with sophisticated ease. The French ready-to-wear brand also brings weekend wear to the collection with lightweight jackets and knitted cardigans for casual weekends. Daniel Hechter Boutique 38 rue Marbeuf (8th), 01 45 63 64 50
A Modern Boss Inspired by the Nordic capitals, Boss’s autumn/winter 2014/2015 menswear collection, Five Continents: Scandinavia, is a voyage to modern minimalism. The collection features pieces with graphic detailing, creating a meticulous dress code. Pieces include turtleneck sweaters, double-breasted jackets and pinstripe suits, bringing together a complete wardrobe for the man on the go who enjoys looking suave and still remain comfortable in very easy-towear clothes. The colours of the collection are equally inspired by the Scandinavian landscapes, with light chalkstone grey and dark Arctic Ocean blue making up the collection, which also includes accessories that are best suited for the modern traveller. The practical accessories include bags that can double as weekend bags as well as suede Chelsea boots. Hugo Boss Boutique 115 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 53 57 35 40
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Shopping For Him
An Ivory Touch to Time Dandy Caps Founded in 2013, young brand Tiquetonne is the first and only high-end French brand that specialises in flat caps. inspired by the look of the 60’s and more particularly the cinema world, Tiquetonne’s founder and artistic Director, Frédéric Vilches, decided to create a collection of timeless flat caps reminiscent of that time. Hand made in France, the caps are designed with the finest of fabrics including luxurious italian cashmere and are available in a plethora of colours and sizes, to suit every gentlemen’s style. Available at Colette
Batman by Berluti it’s the boutique that everyone flocks to when in Paris to find unique and exclusive items and this month the über-fashionable multi-brand boutique Colette is celebrating Batman’s 75th anniversary. in collaboration with Warner Bros., Colette is showcasing an exceptional collection of limited edition accessories designed by the world’s most famous fashion houses and inspired by Gotham City’s superhero. Joining Thierry Lasry and Yazbukey in designing Batman-inspired items is Berluti, with the high-end footwear brand creating a limited edition Playtime sneaker in a midnight blue with yellow laces and the Batman logo on the back. Colette 213 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 55 35 33 90
The legendary Grande seconde Quantième first launched by Jaquet Droz in 2011 and this year it is revealing a new face and movement with the Grande seconde Quantième ivory Enamel. Major changes have been made to the movement including the addition of a silicon balance spring. silicon is a highly flexible material that can withstand shock and variations in temperature and pressure and its properties allow it to remain unaffected by magnetic fields so it remains stable over time. The watch’s ivory enamel dial is available in two versions, red or white gold with a diameter of 39 or 43 millimetres. The dial has also been double enamelled using the Grand Feu enamel technique, one of the most difficult techniques used in watch making and which offers the highest level of durability giving the lower subdial increased depth, accentuating the balance between the two subdials, which form a figure eight, the house’s lucky number. - P.V. 8 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01 55 04 75 20
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© La Vallée Village 2014
with minimum reductions of 33%*, special offers with extra savings† and tax-free shopping‡ seven days a week, and only 35 minutes from Paris. Discover more than 110 boutiques, including Diane von Furstenberg, Jimmy Choo, Kenzo, Poiray, Salvatore Ferragamo, Vanessa Bruno and many more. Extended hours from 7 to 30 November 2014: 10 am – 8 pm And from 22 to 30 November, don’t miss our Christmas Shopping event with artistic performances, magical moments of hospitality, exclusive services and many more surprises. †
Receive a 10% saving on any purchase in three of your favourite boutiques (upon presentation of your Shopping Express® ticket at the Welcome Center) when travelling from Paris (ParisCityVision agency / Metro Pyramides) with the Shopping Express®. Book online at LaValleeVillage.com/shoppingexpress or call the ParisCityVision agency on +33 (0)1 44 55 60 00.
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* and often more off the recommended retail price of previous seasons’ collections. Non-EU residents are entitled to a tax refund of at least 12% on purchases of more than €175 per boutique.
09/10/2014 08:50
shopping
Vintage Advertorial
Timeless Renaissance
This beautiful and original boutique in the heart of Saint Germain des Prés offers a unique array of vintage couture fashion and jewellery including pieces by Chanel, Lanvin, YSL and Dior. You will also find a fine selection of vintage alligator bags and contemporary jewellery pieces from French and foreign designers. Tuesday to Saturday 12-7pm.
On the Left Bank, where the real Parisian style lingers, Corinne Than-Trong invites you to Renaissance. The elegant vintage boutique is ideal if you are looking to update your wardrobe with timeless pieces. Haute Couture dresses await alongside previously loved bags and ornate jewellery pieces. This is a great address for all vintage lovers of Chanel, Dior, Hermès, YSL, Pucci and Balenciaga.
35 Blvd Raspail (7th) M° Sévres-Babylone +33 (0)1 45 48 98 21 / ibis-rouge@wanadoo.fr facebook.com/L’Ibis Rouge
14 rue de Beaune (7th) M° Rue du Bac +33 685 430 352 www.renaissancevintageparis.com
L’Ibis Rouge
Christian Dior, 1959
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SHOPPING
Department Stores & Shopping Centres
Le Bon Marché
BEAUGRENELLE This elegant and luminous shopping centre overlooking the Seine houses a fine selection of chic and elegant boutiques devoted to clothing, accessories and the home, along with food shops, restaurants and a cinema. This environmentally friendly complex has a green roof welcoming a bird refuge, beehives and green walls. Mon-Sat 10am-9pm. Thurs until 10pm. Cinema and Restaurants: MonSun 10am-midnight.
boutiques that are opened every day of the year. 10am – 8pm, even on Sundays. 99 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.43.16.47.10. M° Palais Royal – Musée du Louvre
CITADIUM A sports haven for all lovers of sportswear and streetwear. Find everything from clothing to accessories with original and cutting-edge designs. Mon-Sat 10 am - 8 pm, Thurs till 9 pm.
www.beaugrenelle-paris.com 12 rue Linois (15th). M° Charles Michels
50-56 rue Caumartin (9th), 01.55.31.74.00. M° Havre-Caumartin
BHV/MARAIS
FRANCK ET FILS
A department store known for its great homeware selection and appliances as well as a good selection of top brand names for women and children. Mon, Tues, Thurs, Fri 9:30am – 7:30pm, Wed 9:30am – 9pm, Sat 9:30am – 8pm. BHV Homme – a shop exclusively dedicated to men (36 rue de la Verrerie). 14 rue du Temple (4th), 01.42.74.90.00. M° Hôtel de Ville
LE BON MARCHE The oldest department store in Paris and the only one on the Rive Gauche. Extremely chic, with a great selection of ready-to-wear, household goods, cosmetics and lingerie, all under a lovely glass roof. And the entire basement floor is dedicated to men. Mon-Sat 10am – 8pm, Thurs & Fri until 9pm. 24 rue de Sèvres (7th), 01.44.39.80.00. M° Sèvres-Babylone
LE CARROUSEL DU LOUVRE Art, beauty, technology, leather goods and more are found under the famous inverted pyramid at the Louvre in the Carrousel du Louvre. A unique shopping venue, it brings together a collection of
A Parisian favourite for luxury shopping with a wide selection of luxury brands. A veritable department store for men’s and women’s readyto-wear collections and accessories. Here you will find international luxury brands and original designs from young talents. 80 rue de Passy (16th), 01.44.14.38.00. M° La Muette
GALERIES LAFAYETTE This elegant department store carries top brands including Chanel, Chloé and Gaultier. There’s a wonderful lingerie department, a new children’s concept store that takes up an entire floor, restaurants, wine bars and a tea room and the cosmetics and perfume section offers 260 different brands. Lafayette Homme – A separate building housing men’s fashion and accessories. Lafayette Maison-(Across the street) a home décor shop with sophisticated furnishings. Mon – Sat 9:30am – 8:00pm, Thurs until 9 pm.
to a splendid collection of luxury houses and the most sought-after labels. Printemps de l’Homme, the very first to dedicate an entire shop to men, houses six floors of menswear and a men’s salon. International Designers, an entire floor dedicated to trendy new designers, is home to prestigious fashion designers with the space created by fashion visionary Maria Luisa Poumaillou. Printemps de la Beauté features two floors of products and beauty supplies as well as a spa and beauty salon. La Scent Room is a unique concept that offers only exclusive luxury brands that you won’t find anywhere else. Printemps de la Mode is one floor entirely dedicated to shoes while Printemps de la Lingerie carries 80 labels – several exclusive to Printemps, including the cult London line Agent Provocateur. On the 6th and 7th floors of the Printemps Beauty/Home store are fashions for children. Mon – Sat 9:35am – 8pm, Thurs until 8:45pm. 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.50.00 M° Havre-Caumartin
PRINTEMPS DU LOUVRE Discover the new Printemps celebrating luxury and French know-how in the heart of the Louvre Museum, showcasing the most prestigious accessories, beauty products, watches and jewellery brands. Open 7 days a week, 10am-8pm. Carrousel du Louvre, 99 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.76.77.41.00. M° Palais-Royal – Musée du Louvre
LA VALLEE VILLAGE
PRINTEMPS HAUSSMANN
A village-like shopping outlet on the city outskirts offering discounts of up to 60% on a hundred luxury labels including Armani, Burberry, Tumi and Ralph Lauren. Mon – Sun 10am – 7pm. Shopping Express Shuttle bus departs from the centre of Paris twice a day at 9:30am and 12:30pm.
Printemps’ exquisite world of Luxury and Accessories, spread out over 3 floors, plays host
3 cours de la Garonne, 01.60.42.35.00. RER A4 to Val d’Europe (about 35min)
40 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.34.56. M° Chaussée d’Antin-La Fayette
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Sophisticated
PARIS Photographer: Luigi Di Donna Photographer’s Assistant: Thomas Jover Stylist: Céline Seguin Stylist’s Assistant: Laura Gambier Model: Xenia @ Metropolitan Paris Hairdresser: Olivier Henry Make-Up Artist: Angie Fashion & Production Editor: Sandra Iskander A special thank you to Stéphane Thouron and Hotel Regina
Dress by Alexis Mabille (www.alexismabille.com)
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Dress by Prorsum Burberry (www.burberry.com); Reverso Duetto Classique watch by Jaeger LeCoultre (www.jaeger-lecoultre.com)
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Dress by Valentino (www.valentino.com); Vintage patent shoes
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Tuxedo pants and silk shirt by Ralph Lauren Black Label (www.ralphlauren.fr); Cosmos ring, necklace and earrings by Van Cleef & Arpels (www.vancleefarpels.com); Oyster Perpetual Datejust watch by Rolex (www.rolex.com)
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Cocktail dress and shoes by Elie Saab (www.eliesaab.com)
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Feathered dress and Babango necklace by Lanvin (www.lanvin.com)
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Sherling purple coat and watersnake bag by Bottega Veneta (www.bottegaveneta.com); Bagha ring and Serpent BohĂŠme necklace and earrings by Boucheron (www.boucheron.com)
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SHOPPING Beauty
YSL Rocks For the first time YSL has released a collector’s item of their La Palette Couture eyeshadow collection. For the house’s first collector’s edition, the Rock Sequins, a sexy colour palette was chosen to create the iconic Yves Saint Laurent look. Inspired by the indispensable YSL tuxedo in every woman’s wardrobe, the Rock Sequins Palette is a five-colour beauty must-have that every woman needs to achieve the sophisticated smoky eye look that goes hand in hand with a seductively intense night out. Two shades of matt black, a pearly white, a velvety brown and a metallic grey are perfectly encased in a sparkly black sequined eyeshadow case that is available for a limited time only. Available at Sephora
Cleopatra Eyes
Tinkled Pink Valmont’s cult beauty cream, the Elixir des Glaciers Votre Visage, has been repackaged for a very limited time only in a beautiful sculpted frosted pink glass pot. The ultra-feminine pot of Elixir des Glaciers Votre Visage Pink Edition promises to leave your skin feeling smoother, firmer and looking more youthful. Offering a lifting effect, the rich cream boasts plant extracts from the Swiss Alps.
Creating the perfect Cleopatra look, complete with a heavy and very seductive black liner, is now made a lot easier with By Terry’s new Eye Powder-Kajal. The mineral powder of the “kohl” glides on effortlessly with its soft brush allowing you to line your lash line with an intense black liner, and with its non-greasy texture, the Eye Powder-Kajal has better staying power. This beauty tool could also be used to create an intense smoky look with the velvety texture making it easier to blend in and shade the intensity of the black. Available at By Terry and Sephora boutiques
Available at the Spa Valmont at Le Meurice Hotel 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01 44 58 10 77 48 WH ER E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2014
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Contemporary Asian Spa
Spas The Art of Thaï Massage B
A Youthful Dial Get a surgery free, needle free facelift courtesy of Esthederm at the new E-clat beauty spa. The space, which embraces Esthederm’s belief that everyone’s skin and their skin’s needs are different, offers a diagnosis of your skin to find out exactly what you need as well as asking you your expectations from the treatment, whether it be to see less wrinkles or to have better-hydrated skin. Once the beautician understands your personal needs a treatment customised to you is organised using Esthederm’s skincare products. If you are looking to leave with younger looking skin, on the menu is the Esthe-Lift Facial, a wonderful anti-age treatment that uses Esthederm’s Lift and Repair Mask and the new Derm Repair Restructuring Serum. The one hour and a half facial repulps your face, almost injecting it with youth and zapping away fine lines. E-clat 90 rue de Richelieu (2nd), 01 49 27 99 91
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Guerlain Within the iconic boutique on the most beautiful avenue in the world, you can enjoy excellent beauty and massage treatments in the opulent setting of one of the Guerlain family’s former apartments.
Thaï Massage
68 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.52.57. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt
Hammam
Oil Massage Foot Massage Massage for 2 Body Scrub
My blend by Clarins Enjoy a wonderful beauty treatment in this spa by the French beauty company Clarins. Enjoy the Art of Touch signature treatment combing both face and body rituals to relax, revitalise and regenerate you. The spa dedicated to well-being is located inside the Le Royal Monceau hotel. 37 ave Hoche (8th), 01.42.99.88.99. M° Charles de Gaulle-Etoile
Near Louvre Museum 5, rue Mandar - 75002 Paris + 33 1 40 28 00 80 M° Etienne Marcel (line 4) www.massage-thai-paris.fr O P E N D A I LY 1 1 A M T O 9 P M
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Address Book
shopping
For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris Accessories Alfred Dunhill - 15 rue de la Paris (2nd),
01.42.61.57.58. M° Opéra Le Carré d’Encre - 13bis rue des Mathurins (9th), 01.53.05.81.61. M° Havre-Caumartin Misterchrono - 23 rue Danielle Casanova (1st), 09.53.42.04.64. Mº Opéra Montblanc - 152 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.44.20.07.70. Mº George V Robert Clergerie - 5 rue du Cherche-Midi (6th), 01.45.48.75.47. M° Rennes Swarovski - 32 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.65.28.10. Mº Madeleine S.T. Dupont - 58 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.45.61.08.39. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt Vertu - 18 rue Royale (8th),01.42.86.56.66. Mº Madeleine Walter Steiger - 83 Faubourg St-Honoré (8th) , 01.42.66.65.08. M° Miromesnil
BeAuty spAs & products L’Artisan Parfumeur - 2 rue de l’Amiral-
Coligny (1st), 01.44.88.27.50. Mº Pont Neuf Ban Thai Spa - 20 rue Dauphine (6th), 01.43.54.01.01. Mº Odéon Espace Weleda - 10 ave Franklin D. Roosevelt (8th), 01.53.96.06.15. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt Jovoy Paris - 4 rue de Castiglione (1st), 01.40.20.06.19. Mº Tuileries Guerlain - 68 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.45.62.52.57. Mº George V Lancôme - 29 rue du Fbg-St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.65.30.74. Mº Madeleine Les Comptoirs de Durance - 24 rue Vignon (9th), 01.47.42.04.10. Mº Madeleine L’Occitane - 55 rue St-Louis en L’Ile (4th), 01.40.46.81.71. Mº Pont Marie M.A.C. - 76 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.76.05.99. M° George V Marionnaud Paris - 104 ave des ChampsElysées (8th), 01.53.96.50.00. M° George V Serge Lutens - 142 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.49.27.09.09. M° Palais Royal Sephora - 70-72 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.93.22.50. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt
Catimini - 15 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.44.71.06.23. Mº Madeleine
Lacoste - 37 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.61.58.20. M° Opéra
Jacadi - 17 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.42.65.84.98.
Lanvin- 22 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th),
Mº Madeleine
01.44.71.31.73. Mº Concorde
Joué Club - 3-5 boulevard des Italiens (2nd),
La Perla - 20 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th),
01.53.45.41.41. Mº Tuileries
Miki House - 366 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.40.20.90.98. Mº Tuileries
Petit Bateau - 116 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.40.74.02.03. Mº George V
Tikibou Toy Store - 33 blvd Edgar Quinet (14th), 01.43.20.98.79. Mº Edgar Quinet
clothing: Men & WoMen Anne Fontaine - 17 rue François 1er (8th), 01.40.73.78.01. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt
Banana Republic - 22 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.89.03.92. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt
BCBGMAXAZRIA -14 blvd de la Madeleine (8th), 01.43.12.55.20. Mº Madeleine
01.43.12.33.50. Mº Concorde
Levi’s Store - 76 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th) , 01.53.53.05.70. Mº Georges V Maison Kitsuné - 52 rue de Richelieu (1st) , 01.42.60.34.28. Mº Pyramides Marella - 18 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.53.30.73.13. Mº Madeleine
Marina Rinaldi - 20 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.86.10.90. Mº Madeleine
Montagut - 90 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th),
01.40.17.05.73. Mº Concorde
Rowena Forrest - 23 rue du Cherche-Midi (6th), 01.42.65.25.46. Mº Sèvres-Babylone
Talbot Runhof - 14 rue d’Alger (1st),
01.55.04.85.50. Mº Tuileries
Beretta Gallery - 57 rue Pierre Charron (8th),
Saint Laurent - 53 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.83.84.53. M° Franklin Roosevelt
Capelstore - 26 blvd Malesherbes (8th), 01.42.66.34.21. Mº Madeleine
eye WeAr
01.56.88.59.59. Mº George V
Carven - 34 rue St Sulpice (6th), 09.60.45.47.04. M° Mabillon
Alain Mikli - 74 rue des Saints-Pères (7th), 01.45.49.40.00. M° Sèvres-Babylone
Francis Klein - 30 rue Bonaparte (6th),
Cerruti 1881 - 27 rue Royale (8th), 01.53.30.18.72.
01.44.07.04.28. Mº St-Germain-des-Prés
Mº Madeleine
GrandOptical - 138 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.40.76.00.13. Mº George V
Chanel - 31 rue Cambon (1st), 01.44.50.66.00. Mº Concorde
De Fursac - 146 blvd St-Germain (6th), 01.43.25.40.66. Mº St-Germain-des-Prés
fABrics: couture Janssens & Janssens - 3 rue d’Anjou (8th),
Dior - 30 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.40.73.73.73. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt
01.42.65.04.00. Mº Concorde
DSquared2 - 247-251 rue Saint-Honoré (1st),
Baccarat - 11 place des États-Unis (16th), 01.40.22.11.22. Mº Boissière
01.71.93.60.00. Mº Concorde
Emanuel Berg - 140 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré
hoMe decor
(8th), 01.53.75.48.01. Mº Saint-Philippe-du-Roule
Boutique Talents - 26 ave Niel (17th), 01.44.40.22.80. Mº Pereire/Ternes
Hervé Léger - 24 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.60.02.00. Mº Madeleine
Mº Madeleine
iBlues - 16 rue de Passy (16th), 01.42.88.68.67.
Christofle - 9 rue Royale (8th), 01.55.27.99.13.
Mº Passy
Bernardaud - 11 rue Royale (8th), 01.47.42.82.66. Mº Concorde
children’s clothing & toys
Karl Lagerfeld - 194 blvd Saint-Germain (7th),
Lalique - 11 rue Royale (8th), 01.53.05.12.12.
01.42.22.74.99. Mº Rue du Bac
Mº Madeleine
Bonpoint - 6 rue de Tournon (6th), 01.40.51.98.20.
Kenzo - 27 blvd de la Madeleine (8th),
Silvera - 56-58 ave Kléber (16th), 01.53.65.78.78.
Mº Mabillon
Tikibou Toy Store
01.42.61.04.14. M° Madeleine
Mº Kléber
Bonpoint
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Address Book
Zwilling - 12 blvd de la Madeleine (9th), 01.42.68.88.00. Mº Madeleine
Tiffany&Co. - 6 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.40.20.20 20.
Mº Opéra
JeWellery & WAtches A. Lange & Söhne - 19 rue de la Paix (9 ), th
01.42.65.68.71. Mº Opéra
Angela Caputi Giuggiu - 15 Galerie Véro-Dodat (1st), 01.40.39.01.51. Mº Louvre-Rivoli Arije - 3 rue de Castiglione (1st), 01.42.60.37.77. Mº Tuileries
Tissot Boutique - 76 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.42.56.18.53. Mº George V Van Cleef & Arpels - 22 place Vendôme (1 ), st
01.55.04.11.11. Mº Opéra
Vhernier - 63 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.17.93.15. Mº Miromesnil
Wempe - 16 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.21.77. Mº Concorde
Boucheron - 26 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.61.58.16. Mº Opéra
luggAge And BAgs
Bucherer - 12 blvd des Capucines (9th),
Cesaire - 6 rue Saint-Florentin (1st), 01.42.97.43.43.
01.70.99.18.88. Mº Opéra
Bvlgari - 25 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.00.50. Mº Pyramides
Cartier - 23 place Vendôme (1st), 01.44.53.32.20.
Mº Opéra
Chopard - 1 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.20.10. Mº Opéra
Damiani - 2 place Vendôme (1 ), 01.42.96.95.51. st
M° Opera
DoDo by Pomellato - 350 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.31.55. Mº Tuileries
Dubail - 21 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.61.11.17. Mº Tuileries
Gas Bijoux - 26-28 rue Danielle Casanova (2nd),
01.42.97.58.80. M° Opéra
Gucci Watches - Printemps Haussmann (1st floor), 64 bd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.78.74, Mº Havre-Caumartin Harry Winston - 6 rue de la Paix (2nd),
Mº Concorde/Madeleine
Coach (available at Printemps) - 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.46.35. Mº Havre-Caumartin
Delvaux - 151-154 Galerie de Valois (1st), 09.67.19.93.28. Mº Palais Royal Dot-Drops - 8 rue des Canettes (6 ), th
01.43.54.62.15. Mº Mabillon
Fauré Le Page - 21 rue Cambon (1st), 09.82.50.92.30. Mº Madeleine
Goyard - 233 rue St. Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.57.04. Mº Tuileries
Hedgren - 49 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.36.36.97. Mº Madeleine
Hermès - 24 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th), 01.40.17.47.17. Mº Concorde
Kipling – 4 rue de Sèvres (6th), 01.45.44.77.67. Mº Sèvres-Babylone
Lancel - 127 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.56.89.15.70. Mº George V
01.47.20.03.09. M° Opéra
Hublot - 10 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.86.67.86.
Longchamp - 404 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.43.16.00.16. Mº Concorde
Inedit Joaillier - 14 rue de l’Abbaye (6th),
Louis Vuitton - 101 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th),
Omega - 362/364 rue Saint-Honoré (2nd),
Louis Quatorze - 106 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd),
Mº Opéra
01.53.57.52.00. Mº George V
01.56.24.13.85. MºSt-Germain-des-Prés
01.42.72.94.43. Mº Filles du Calvaire
01.55.35.03.60. Mº Concorde
Panerai - 5 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (8 ),
Moynat- 348 rue St. Honoré (1st), 01.47.03.83.90.
Mº Concorde
Mº Tuileries
Patek Philippe - 10 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.44.17.77. Mº Tuileries
Mulberry - 207 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.00.64. M° Tuileries
th
Piaget - 16 place Vendôme (1st), 01.58.18.14.15.
Pinel & Pinel - 22 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.58.39.
Mº Tuileries
Mº Madeleine
Rolex - 9 place Vendôme (1st) , 01.40.20.21.00.
Prada - 10 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.23.99.40.
M° Opéra
Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt
Vertu
Tumi - 245 rue St Honoré (1st), 01.45.79.70.30. Mº Concorde
Multi-BrAnd Boutiques By Marie - 8 ave George V (8th), 01.53.23.88.00. Mº George V Citadium - 56 rue de Caumartin (9th), 01.55.31.74.00. Mº Havre-Caumartin Colette - 213 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.55.35.33.90. Mº Tuileries L’Eclaireur - 26 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.12.32. Mº George V Merci - 111 blvd Beaumarchais (3rd), 01.42.77.00.33. Mº Saint Sébastien-Froissard Montaigne Market - 57 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.42.56.58.58. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt
shoes Ann Tuil - 63 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.42.25.67.31. Mº George V A.Testoni - 15 rue Royale (8th), 01.44.60.09.90. Mº Concorde Berluti - 26 rue Marbeuf (8th), 01.53.93.97.97. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt Christian Louboutin - 68 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.68.37.65. Mº Madeleine Crockett & Jones – 14 rue Chauveau-Lagarde (8th), 01.44.94.01.74. Mº Madeleine Edward Green – 199 bis blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.53.63.47.50. Mº Rue du Bac Jimmy Choo –34 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.23.03.39. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt J.M. Weston – 114 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.26.47. Mº George V Paraboot - 304 rue St Honoré (1st), 01.44.50.52.67. Mº Tuileries Repetto - 22 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.44.71.83.12. Mº Opéra Tod’s - 21 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.16.16. Mº Concorde
vintAge Dépôt Vente du 17ème - 109 rue de Courcelles (17th), 09.81.82.00.66. Mº Saint-Paul Didier Ludot - 20 & 24 Galerie de Montpensier (1st), 01.42.96.06.56. Mº Pyramides L’Ibis Rouge - 35 blvd Raspail (7th), 01.45.48.98.21. Mº Sèvres-Babylone Renaissance - 14 rue de Beaune (7th), 06.85.43.03.52. Mº Rue du Bac
Francis Klein
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LUXURY MAP Le Marais SHOP STOP BV
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Cheap Monday Nice • Things
RUE
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• RUE DE LA VERRERI E
7 rue du Pont Louis-Philippe, Paris 4th Tel: 01 44 54 03 03 www.lebijou.net
• • Shine
•Eclectic • Bruno •Mr • Bonastre • Les Petites
• Moustaches
LE BHV MARAIS L’HOMME
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SAINT-PAUL
RUE DU PONT LOUIS- PHILIPPE
RIVOLI RUE DE
HOTEL DE VILLE RUE DE LOBAU
•
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Sonia • Rykiel
Wolford • RUE DU PLATRE
BE
•
•
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• Christophe Oska • • Lemaire Helmut Les Prairies Lang de Paris
Mi-Mai • Pring • Ambali • • RUE BARBETTE Manoush • • Jamin Puech Officinal Slowear • • Aesol • Paul & Joe Marionnaud Paris RUE DES FRANCS BO Penhaligon’s • URGEOIS Ted • •Esteban Baker Fragonard • RUE DES Repetto • FRANCS BO • • URGEOIS Michael • Iro • Aubade Kors
RUE DES BLA NCS MAN
BV
• Essentiel
• T O IS S A R APC • RUE FR • Merci • • Le Labo Cuisse de Ami • grenouille Sandro•
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• Carhartt
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Le Slip Français
Maison Kitsune
ENN
RU E DE S 4
Bonton •
• Gloss
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Nicolaï
•Huygens •Fleux
The jewellery of Bénédikt Aïchelé distinguishes itself with its contemporary design expressing symbols and emotions through exceptional stones and precious metals. His creations are made in his studio in the south of France. The house has received both the Living Heritage and Master Art Craftsman labels.
Melinda
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Melinda
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Tom Greyhound
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Stephane Verdino Customellow •
RUE STE CROIX DE LA BRETONNERIE
BÉNÉDIKT AÏCHELÉ JOAILLIER
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OSKA PARIS
SHOP STOP
• U•E DE •NO
Isabel Marant
TUR
RU E DE S HA
133 rue Vieille du Temple, Paris 3rd Tel: 01 42 77 04 14 www.oska-paris.com
Liquides 13 Bonaparte R
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DE • Betjman & Barton SF ILL • Moulin Roty ES DU CA LV AI RE ST-SÉBASTIEN FROISSART
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SHOP STOP
OSKA is a german designer brand. Different, casual and chic, OSKA reveals your personality, through its style and colors. Visit our OSKA Paris shop and discover our timeless and elegant winter collection.
AG NE
La Boutique Extraordinaire • Yves Andrieux & • Vincent Jalbert Monsieur Paris •
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RU E DE BR ET
52 rue de Rivoli, Paris 4th Tel: 09 77 401 400 www.lebhvmarais.fr
FILLES DU CALVAIRE
BV
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More than just a department store: a fabulous lifestyle with its totally unique atmosphere where style rules. Its flair is reflected on every floor of our store at 52 rue de Rivoli, where you’ll find everything you need from fashion, to decorating, beauty to home improvement, leisure activities and more !
LE
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Village Saint Paul ■
• Melodies Graphiques • Calligrane • Les Exprimeurs PONT MARIE
RUE DE L’HOTEL DE VILLE
RUE DE L’HOTEL DE VILLE QUAI DES CÉLESTINS
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Faubourg Saint-Honoré
•
RU
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Walter Steiger
•
MATIGNON
RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HONORÉ
SHOP STOP
• Emanuel Berg
Steiger
•
Puiforcat Azzaro • Vhernier • F.P. Journe
VHERNIER
•
Sublime jewellery of precious gems and gold from this Italian brand. Each piece is unique, hand-made and influenced in its form by trends in modern and contemporary art.
Pierre Cardin
•
63 rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré - Paris 8th Tel: 01 40 17 93 15 - paris@vhernier.fr www.vhernier.com
RU
Caron
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B AM
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Montagut
Élysée Palace
RUE DE L’ÉLYSÉE
SHOP STOP
• Sotheby’s • Chopard •Sonia Rykiel • Poiray • Christian Louboutin Apostrophe • • Etro • Pomellato Bui • Barbara RUE ANJOU •Bally •Blumarine •Burberry • Brunello Cucinelli • Ermenegildo Zegna Salvatore Ferragamo Lancôme • • • Heurgon • Glashütte Original • Saint Laurent Porsche Design • • Janssens Chanel • & Janssens Boucheron Tod’s • • Givenchy • Cartier Burberry • • Hermès RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS
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• Audemars • Piguet Hedgren •Tom FordRUE CA•MBON • • • Hervé Léger Jimmy Choo • •Hugo Boss • Viktor&Rolf • Armani • Dior • Miki House • Omega • de Grisogono
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•
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RUE DE RIVOLI
CROCKETT & JONES A reference for more than 130 years among the amateurs of beautiful Goodyear-welted shoes, the English luxury brand for men & ladies perpetuates the artistic quality and custom-made service.
Wempe
S Q U IE R
Oliver Grant
Ralph Lauren Église de la Madeleine
• Lancaster Valentino • • G. Lotti Kenzo• •Max Mara RUE SAINT-FL ORENTIN • Césaire •Longchamp Hublot • •Anne Fontaine Chronopassion • Maje • Chanel
RUE PA
Baccarat
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Jardin des Tuileries
Michael Kors •
•
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SHOP STOP
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T H U R IN
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3 rue d’Anjou - Paris 8th (Corner 46 Fbg St Honoré) Tel: 01 42 65 04 00 www.janssensparis.com
Lanvin La Perla Prada Pinko Chanel Dior Gucci
RUE D
ES MA
•
Lanvin Berluti
• •
Place de la Concorde
• Capelstore
RUE D
JANSSENS & JANSSENS
RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HONORÉ
AVE NU E GA BR IEL
Frette •
In the very heart of the Faubourg St-Honoré discover more than 3,000 different clothing fabrics, all extraordinary, and many used by haute couture designers. Owner Françoise Janssens can also recommend one of 40 local seamstresses.
14 rue Chauveau-Lagarde - Paris 8th Tel: 01 44 94 01 74 www.crockettandjones.com
• Miu-Miu •
IG LI O N E
Place Vendôme
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Rue Saint-Honoré / Palais Royal SHOP STOP la Concorde
Burberry
RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS
• •
•• •
RUE SAINT-FLOREN TIN
Église de la Madeleine
Wempe • Lancaster
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Kenzo
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Le Jacquard Francais
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RUE DANIELLE CASANOVA
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RUE RICHELIEU
Christian Louboutin
All Saints Y’s
•
Hartford
Esprit Bonpoint IRO
• • • •
•
•
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Gerard Darel Kenzo Les petites
• •
Maje
Place des Victoires
PS
by Terry Xavier Lust
• Galerie Véro-Dodat
RUE VIVIENNE
•
Pie
rre Ca D Hard rlo elv y Se Mo aux rg lte e Ri Lu do Ma ck O tens iso we n n SteDidie Fab s lla r L re Mc ud Ca ot rtn ey
RUE DE RIVOLI
• • • • • • • •
Palais Royal
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RUE CROI X DES PETI TS CHAM
• • •
ES
RUE DE RIVOLI
CIN
12 blvd de la Madeleine - Paris 9th Tel: 01 42 68 88 00 www.zwilling.com
Musée du Louvre
Eric Philippe Angela Caputi Il Bisonte
E
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L DE
RUE DE LA FEUILLADE
ZWILLING This German house has been producing premium kitchenware for nearly three centuries. Stainless steel knives and cookware, cast iron cocottes as well as fine flatware collections are among the offerings for consumers who seek the authentic and emotional experience of cooking and taste. Quality and functionality are the hallmarks of the house.
PU
PALAIS ROYAL
CA
E
DE
Kusmi Tea
RUE DES PETITS CHAMPS
•
AV
Printemps du Louvre
E NU
OPÉRA
AV
•Nodus •Tous •Shiatzy Chen RA •Aésop PÉ
•
Opéra Garnier
•
•Paraboot
Frey Wille
ES
Place du Marché St-Honoré
RUE DES PYRAMIDES Carrousel du Louvre
DD
•
•Jo Malone •M.A.C •Bonpoint
•Cotélac
AR
•
n15
RUE SAINT ROCH
The Kooples •
EV
RUE DE LA PA IX
Marc by Marc Jacobs
ONORÉ
Colette • Chantal Thomass• Mulberry • Peuterey •
Vendôme
•Balenciaga
RUE S A IN T -H
•
Place
Guerlain •Dodo •Baldinini •Moynat
Church’s• Paule Ka•
UL
Goyard •
BO
• •
•Dubail
Talbot Runhof Kiehl’s •
SHOP STOP
• Zwilling
LEI
RUE SAINT- HONOR É
IG LI ON E
TUILERIES
MIKI HOUSE
• BCBGMaxazria MA
Chanel
•
Audemars Piguet
RUE TRONC HET
•Eres • Swarovski
Marella
•
Hedgren • Roberto • • RU E CA MB ON Cavalli • Tom Ford • •Jimmy Choo Hervé Messika• •Hugo Boss Morabito• Léger Viktor&Rolf • Wolford • •Armani Chloé• •Dior DsQuared2 • •Miki House Tumi• •Omega Arije J.M. • • Weston Chopard RU E CA ST
SHOP STOP
366 rue Saint-Honoré - Paris 1st Tel: 01 40 20 90 98 www.mikihouse.fr
•
•
•
16 rue Royale - Paris 8th Tel: 01 42 60 21 77 www.wempe.fr
Superb quality and unique style are the hallmarks of this Japanese house of children’s fashion and style. Every collection is conceived with the child in mind. Fashioned in workshops in Japan, the clothing is made from fine fabrics and imbued with practical, functional and unique touches. Open Mon-Sat 10am - 7pm.
MADELEINE
Vertu
LA
Hublot • Chronopassion • Maje•
Dior
••
DE
•Césaire
•
VD
The renowned German watchmaker has been satisfying customers for over 135 years. Featuring a fine selection of stylish jewellery, luxury watches and chronometers.
• • Royal Quartz Poiray Michael Kors • Valentino
Gucci
• Oliver Grant •Baccarat
BL
RUE DE RIVOLI
RUE ROYALE
WEMPE
RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HONORÉ
CONCORDE
Jardin des Tuileries
•Lanvin •La Perla •Prada Chanel •Pinko
Lanvin Berluti • Monclerc • Panerai Missoni
Ch
Place de
RUE JEAN-J ACQUES ROUSSE AU
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If you are looking for a wide selection of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery, you only need to keep one name in mind. For more than 130 years, the name “WEMPE” has stood for the utmost expertise in the art of making jewellery and timepieces. We offer a unique selection of valuable treasures at 28 Wempe showrooms world-wide. We are especially proud because for more than a century we have been privileged to contribute to the grand feelings that our customers express when they purchase jewellery or timepieces. Our pieces of jewellery uphold international standards and are born in our own atelier. This is true for unusual one-of-a-kind items as well as for our diverse assortment of classic pieces with brilliant-cut diamonds. And a century-old friendship links us with the world’s foremost watch manufactories. You will fi nd WEMPE showrooms at the loveliest locations in great European metropolises and in New York City. Each shop also offers service or advice whenever you require it, so you can be certain that we will always be available to meet your individual needs. We cordially invite you to discover an abundance of interesting new items and exclusive special models at one of Europe’s leading jewellers. We look forward to your visit!
Paris, 16, rue Royale, T +33.1.42 60 21 77 HAMBURG LOND ON PARIS NEW YORK WEMPE.COM
We accept all credit cards.
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LUXURY MAP
Champs-Élysées-Montaigne SHOP STOP
Arc de Triomphe
AVENUE KLÉBER
U CEA EM AR AV EN U
•
U
E AV
AVE
NUE
• •
Armani
•
•
AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES
IS 1 ER
ANÇO
RUE FR
DOR
OCCA
DU B
RUE
RU EJ EA NG OU JO N
RU
• Versace Dior • • AVE •Salvatore Ferragamo Caron NUE M • Akris • ON Chanel Givenchy TA • Chanel • IGNE • • Fendi Dinh Chloé• • • Saint Laurent van Loewe •• Pucci •• •• Gucci Ralph Lauren Dolce&Gabbana Blumarine LT EVE S.T.Dupont OOS Elie Saab • LIN D.R EJ
EA
NK
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RA UE F
OU JO N
A
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RUE
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Swatch SHINGTO N • Tag Heuer
• Marionnaud Paris RUE
DE B
ERR
I •Zara Morgan • •M.A.C. •Levi’s • Tissot • Sephora • Guerlain • Mauboussin • Tiffany RUE
LA B
OÉT
IE
•Comptoirs de Paris RU
ED
UC
OLI
SÉE
• Quicksilver •Adidas • Banana Republic •
•
Weleda
Les Champs d’Or
AVEN
UE M
FRANKLIN D.ROOSEVELT
ATIG
NON
NFÉRENCE
10 avenue Franklin Delano Roosevelt - Paris 8th Tel: 01 53 96 06 15 www.espace-weleda.fr
Kenzo
JP Gaultier PIER Lacoste • RE 1 ER EV • G R DE S Omega • EO ERB UE G IE N Eric Bompard E • AV • Bvlgari Brioni • • • Ricci Dubail • Stefano U Leonard EA • •Ulysse Nardin RC • Waskool Creed MA E Christofle • NU E • AV Arije Cartier •Givenchy Scabal • • Chaumet Kusmi • • Arije •EORGE V Tea G E Beretta RUE NU Paule Ka • PIE • RUE MA AVE R RE RBEUF Ann Tuil • Sicis • •Tom Ford CHARRO N Zilli • RUE • DE L Guy Laroche • Kiton • Balenciaga A TR •Smalto RUE • ÉMO By Marie&Gas Bijoux ILLE BA Wolford Diane Von • RBEU Furstenberg • Balmain Berluti F • ALMA MARCEAU • Karl Lagerfeld• Zadig&Voltaire • Valentino Paul&Joe • Courrèges • • AVENU • Anne Louis Armani Fontaine • E MO Vuitton AN Prada • NTAIG MaxMara • ARIGN Bottega Veneta • NE RUE M • Nina • Armani Ricci • • Louis Vuitton • Maison Ullens
PORT DE LA CO
ESPACE WELEDA A unique moment in a marvellous place. Weleda, the first organic and natural cosmetic brand, invites you to discover its massages and product line in its wellness space. Enter into the peaceful and natural universe of Weleda with its very contemporary design.
RUE BALZAC
GEORGE V Louis • Vuitton J.M. Weston
AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES
SHOP STOP
EA RC
A
EM
NU
57 rue Pierre Charron - Paris 8th Tel: 01 56 88 59 59 www.berettagallery.com
• Swarovski • Bang & Olufsen • GrandOptical • Milady
SHOP STOP
BERETTA GALLERY
ND
Hugo Boss
76 ave des Champs Elysées - Paris 8th Tel: 01 42 56 18 53 www.tissot.ch; E-shop: www.tissotshop.com
Beautifully tailored sport and casual wear from the legendary family-owned, Italian house specialised in the world of nature and hunting are found in this gallery boutique. High quality, refined accessories, stylish and sturdy shoes and boots and gear for the great outdoors are hallmarks of the brand.
•
Montblanc
A EDL
Dinh Van
• Cartier
FRI
Lancel •
•
DE
The first European Tissot Flagship store. Discover the largest Tissot watch collection available in Paris with more than 500 references from their traditional watch collection such as the Le Locle Automatic to the most innovative watches with the T-Touch Expert.
AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES
CHARLES DE GAULLE-ÉTOILE
NA
D’IÉ
NUE AVE
TISSOT BOUTIQUE
NUE
AVE
AVENUE D’IÉNA
KLIN RAN UE F N E AV
LT EVE OOS D.R
Grand Palais
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POWERED BY SOLAR ENERGY T I S S OT T- TOU CH EX PERT SO LA R. TACTI LE WATCH POWERED BY SOL AR E N E R G Y, O F F E R I N G 2 0 F U N C T I O N S I N C L U D I N G W E AT H E R F O R E C A S T, A LT I M ET E R A N D CO MPAS S. I N N OVATO RS BY T RADITION.
T I S S O T S H O P. C O M BOUT I QUE S T I SS OT 76, AV E N U E D E S C HA MPS-ELYSÉES – 7 5 0 0 8 PA R IS CE N TRE COM MERC IA L L ES 4 T EMPS, NIVEAU 2 – 9 2 0 9 2 PARIS LA DÉFENSE
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LUXURY MAP
Saint-Germain SHOP STOP
E AU V
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DE B
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Poltrona Frau • Silvera
DES
Hartwood •
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Maje •
DE
RUE
Ofée . •
RUE
SAIN
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Deyrolle •
The Kooples • Bowen •
Elsa
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& Voltaire • Zadig • Karl Lagerfeld
GON
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8 rue des Canettes - Paris 6th Tel: 01 43 54 62 15 / www.mydotdrops.com
RUE PRI NCE SSE
• RUE SAINT-SULPICE RUE ST-S
ULPICE
DE RUE
Forrest
RUE DES CANETTES
NES REN
ER DU
• Rowena
Église Saint-Sulpice
RUE SERVANDONI
RUE FÉROU
RUE MAD AME
NES REN
RENNES
RUE BONAPARTE
RUE MÉZ IÉR ES
DE
• Wolford • L’Occitane
Zadig & Voltaire
American Vintage Saint Laurent •
RUE
• Guerlain
•
•
Robert Clergerie
CH
S
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•
Agnès b
•
S PA IL ARD RA
DOT-DROPS
DOT-DROPS® is the brand of choice for the “happy few” of elite travellers. The philosophy of the French manufacturer is to continuously strive to achieve harmony between design and functionality. DOTDROPS® creations are a solid marriage of colours, design and unexpected materials. Exclusive: you can customize your suitcase at the boutique and make your travel experience unique!
E
ÉV
Dot-Drops
RUE BON APAR TE
•
• Hour Hermès Passion
RU
RU
S DE
BOULEV
Le Bon Marché •
RUE
• Longchamp
CH
SÉVRES-BABYLONE
DE RUE
IDI
•
RUE DE BABYLONE
ES
•
Maje Saint Laurent • • Marina Rinaldi • • Tod’s Sportmax • Prada • La Perla • Alain Mikli • • Repetto Durance M.A.C.• • • Pataugas • Wolford Omega ES Berluti • SÉVR
E-M
•
DE R
RUE DE LA CH
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Implicite
ENN
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A IS E
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SHOP STOP
RUE
GR
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• Fabrice
DRA
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28 rue Jacob - Paris 6th Tel: 09 84 53 58 43
•
OB
Inédit Poiray Joaillier aillier • BO Mauboussin Christian Louboutin RUE • ULE • Façonnable Ke • DE L V Walter • nz A ’A B RD • Pau o• B AY • Agent • Louis SAI Steiger Etro E Provocateur l Sm NT• Vuitton G i t • E h• l’A • R Brunello M Tag AIN Pa rtisa Cucinelli rfu n Heuer Hugo • me Burberry Boss JC de ur • Castelbajac Armani•SAINT-GERMAIN • • Paul Smith Rodika • DES-PRÉS Zanian Paul & Joe• • Shadé • • Cartier • • Céline • Ventilo L.K. • Lancel Ferragamo Rolex• Bennett • Hackett• • • Montblanc Carven • Crockett & Jones • Kenzo• Texier Robert • J.M. Weston Alexis Mabille• Clergerie L’Ibis Rouge
S PA IL ARD RA
GAB & JO French multi-brand boutique Gab & Jo is a onestop shop for accessories and fun home décor objects. The colourful boutique showcases the best France has to offer with every item carefully selected by the owners. A perfect address if you are looking for original souvenirs.
Gab&Jo
EJ AC
Francis Klein • R TE
BOULEV
Edward T-G ER Green MA IN Cinna •
Debauve & Gallais •
RUE BON A PA
• John Lobb UL Bang EV AR • & Olufsen • D SAIN
SAIN
• Vanier
RUE DU BAC
BO
TS-P
Cassina
DES
•
RUE
SHOP STOP
ÉRES
RU
ED U
30 rue Bonaparte - Paris 6th Tel: 01 44 07 04 28 www.francisklein.com
IVE
RUE
This family-run brand offers hand-made, out of sight glasses and accessories. All made in France, their collections cater to all looks, offering glamorous and original frames allowing you to wear a piece of Paris every day. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm.
QU
RUE
Renaissance • DU B
FRANCIS KLEIN
LE
RUE
ED EL ’UN
LIL
AC
RU
DE
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RUE
AC
Musée d’Orsay
VAU G RUE DE
IR A R D
Jardins du Luxembourg
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LUXURY MAP
Vendôme
SHOP STOP
Gare Saint-Lazare
SAINT-LAZARE
RU E DU HA VR
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Passage du Havre
BUCHERER PARIS
• Citadium
Printemps Beauté-Maison
In the heart of the Opera district, between Place Vendôme and Boulevard Haussmann, the House Bucherer unveils a sublime 2200m2 space showcasing the most beautiful Swiss names in watchmaking. The largest boutique in the world dedicated to timepieces, this is the Parisian shop stop.
Printemps Mode HAVRE-CAUMARTIN
Guerlain •
RU
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C ’AR
AD
RUE DE
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BOU
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Galeries Lafayette Homme
OY AUR
Fragonard •
Opéra Garnier
• Maje
•
GAS BIJOUX
Bucherer Tag Heuer Samsonite
•
•
Lancel
•Boggi
• •Maty
•
BOULEVARD DES CAPUCINES
• • • IKKS
•Basler Waskoll A. Lange Omega • • Christofle & Söhne • • Repetto Mauboussin • Lalique Cartier • Hugo Mellerio • Diesel Boss Panerai • IX IWC • PA Lery • Cave Bernard • Magrez Van Cleef • E L A Breitling • • De Louis Vuitton & Arpels • E D• Jaquet • Fursac Droz U • R • Tiffany Cartier Bvlgari Dubail • Harry Winston • •Vacheron Constantin •• •
NT
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Tumi •
J.M. Weston
• •
AIN
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Rolex JaegerLeCoultre •
•
Place
Vendôme
RU
•Charvet • Gas Bijoux • Boucheron R Van Cleef
• & Arpels • Blancpain
• Chanel
• Piaget • Chaumet • Hublot • Breguet • • • • Patek Philippe Damiani
Chopard
•
Frey Wille
•
AVENUE DE L’OPÉRA
AI
DsQuared2 •
NES
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UCI
RU
• •
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C AP
Jimmy Choo Hugo Boss Viktor&Rolf Armani Dior Miki House Omega
• •
T-A
DES
UG
US
RUE
TIN
Hackett Lacoste
Born in Saint-Tropez, Gas Bijoux has been creating jewellery for over 45 years, handmade and artisan, crafted in its Marseilles atelier, and it is now an internationally recognised fashion accessories house.
L’Occitane
OPÉRA
RU
ES CR IB
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CAUM
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ARTI
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RUE
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VIGN
TR
ON
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CH
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U EA
CHAUSSÉE D’ANTIN - LA FAYETTE
•
•
SHOP STOP
Galeries Lafayette Coupole
LEV
Sephora
Talents
26 rue Danielle Casanova - Paris 2nd Tel: 01 42 97 58 80 44 rue Etienne Marcel - Paris 2nd Tel: 01 45 08 49 46 8 avenue George V - Paris 8th Tel: 01 53 23 88 00 www.gasbijoux.com
CE
RU
SHOP STOP
P R O V EN
AR • D HAUSS Lafayette MA NN Maison&Gourmet ET
12 boulevard des Capucines – Paris 9th Tel: 01 70 99 18 88 www.bucherer.com
Printemps Homme
UE
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• Kusmi
CA
• Desigual
S A Kusmi N O Tea VA
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Tea
RU
Place du Marché St-Honoré
RU
Mikimoto Dior
ED E
SP
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CH RO TIN E
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Malone ••JoM.A.C • Bonpoint
RA
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Colette Chantal Thomass • Pentaligon’s • Mulberry •
T ED U
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RU
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Acaba
Peuterey
•
AVENUE DE L’OPÉRA
•
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PYRAMIDES
SA
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MI
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Talbot Runhof
•Frank Namani
AM
RU
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RU
IO GL TI
AS
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RU
BO
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41 rue des Petits Champs - Paris 1st Tel: 01 71 72 96 45 www.acaba.fr
É
Find a new spot to buy your gloves in the heart of Paris. Acaba is the place to be, with its first shop designed by Manuel Laranjeiro. The boutique features wood, leather and copper and offers a great collection of Italian and French gloves for her and for him. 11 am to 7 pm. Closed on Sunday.
OR
ACABA
• Jovoy
CH
•
ON
•
•
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H.Stern Arije
NT
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Church’s • • Dodo RU Richard • • Moynat ED U M Grand • Balenciaga ON • T - T Paule Ka HA Piquadro
• Mephisto
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arts&attractions
The Guide
arts& attractions By Patricia Valicenti
Turn to page 67 to discover DS World Paris
Marine Photo © Baudouin; Fondation Louis Vuitton Photo © Iwan Baan, 2014; Newborn daughter, wife and cat Photo ©Elliott Erwitt/Magnum courtesy A. Galerie
Galleries | Monuments | Museums | Exhibits | Boat Cruises | Day Trips | Parks
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arts&attractions Exhibitions
A New Venue The Parisian art scene was given a new dimension when the Fondation Louis Vuitton, which is dedicated to showcasing contemporary art, opened its doors last month. Housed in a spectacular building designed by the American architect Frank Gehry, the foundation emerges amidst the greenery of the Bois de Boulogne nestled on the western edge of Paris. The building features spaces dedicated to the permanent collections, temporary exhibitions and commissioned works, and its adjustable auditorium was conceived to host various cultural events. From the building’s terraces unusual views of Paris can be found along with those of the natural, woody environment of the Jardin d’Acclimatation, which served as an inspiration for Frank Gehry to create a structure of glass and transparency. The foundation’s opening programme includes an exhibition of Frank Gehry’s architectural project for the foundation and a presentation of several emblematic works from the permanent collection. 8 ave du Mahatma Gandhi-Bois de Boulogne (16th), 01 40 69 96 00
Wonderful Women Glamorous silhouettes, women with their children and Marilyn are just some of the women as photographed by one of the world’s great photographers and an eminent member of the celebrated agency Magnum. To mark the release of Elliott Erwitt’s new book, Women, the A. galerie in Paris is hosting a remarkable exhibition of his works entitled More Than Women, which showcases his most beautiful pictures of women, pictures of icons as well as his lesser known works like the colour photographs. And also on show is the famous shot of his newborn daughter, wife and cat, a textbook study in composition. Elliott Erwitt will be in Paris for the exhibition and for two book signings on November 10th and 15th. From Nov 3 to Dec 20 4 rue Léonce Reynaud (16th), 06 20 85 85 85 w w w.w he re t r ave l e r. com 63
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ARTS&ATTRACTIONS
Exhibitions
Decor and More
JEWELLERY of ThE STaRS
Through Nov 23 107 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01 44 55 57 50
Sparkling Strasbourg
Olwen Forest invites you to see her collection of vintage artist jewellery worn yesterday, and sought after today by famous stars and celebrities. Coco Chanel, Schiaparelli, Joseff of Hollywood A display of fun and trendy 1930’s cocktail accessories complete the show. Marché Serpette - allée 3, stand 5/7 110 rue des rosiers, 93400 St-Ouen (Metro: porte de clignancourt) Open : Saturday, Sunday, Monday Tel: 01 40 11 96 38
www.olwenforest.com
Strasbourg, a city at the crossroads of the arts in Europe, was known for its unparalleled gilded works and the superb skills of its silversmiths. The Galerie J. Kugel is presenting a shimmering, glimmering exhibition entitled Vermeilleux! showcasing gilded silver pieces from Strasbourg from the 16th to the 19th century. This exhibition honours several generations of silver smiths of Strasbourg while celebrating three hundred years of superb art and craftsmanship. The show revolves around two chronological themes: the Germanic influence during the Renaissance and the Baroque age and including the rocaille and the French style of the 17th and 19th centuries, neo-classical styles. The German influence of the Renaissance is illustrated with a spectacular 16th century goblet of gilded silver in the shape of a made for the guild bear while an extraordinary Baroque cup of a silversmith’s of silversmiths is decorated with scenes workshop. Through Nov 8 25 Quai Anatole France (7th), 01 42 60 86 23
Chinese Pavilion © Francois-Joseph Graf; Johann Ludwig III IMLIN, Ecuelle et son Présentoir en argent doré, Strasbourg, 1768 photo © Hugues Dubois
Olwen Forest
There is a dressing room fit for a modern dandy from Tristan Auer, a room for both music and tasting with a cork bench and a hybrid piano/bar created by Linda Pinto for the Cabinet Alberto Pinto, and a presidential office featuring a desk by César from Chahan Minassian. Meanwhile, luxury and savoir-faire come together in a Chinese Pavilion by François-Joseph Graf working in synergy with Fendi in which rich textures enhance a collection of enamel cloisonné vases from Imperial China. This year the interior design and decor show AD Intérieurs is fittingly being played out in the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris. This show brings together 16 designers who have been selected to participate in the event and given the opportunity to create an interior around a piece from the museum’s collections. Rarely shown, these historic objects come to life once again as they are integrated into decors designed to be lived in.
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THE INTERNATIONAL FAIR FOR OLD MASTER PAINTINGS
13-16 November 2014
Palais Brongniart, Paris
Opening times: 11 am to 8 pm Late view November 13 until 10 pm Closes at 6.30 pm on Sunday 16 November
E VENTS Utrecht and the International Caravaggesque Movement
Symposium on November 13th in association with the Centraal Museum Utrecht and the Radboud Universiteit, Nijmegen
î‚ťree collections, a single passion
Exhibition of Masterpieces of the Centraal Museum Utrecht, the P. & N. de Boer Foundation and AXA ART
www.paristableau.com
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ARTS&ATTRACTIONS
Exhibitions
Portraits, landscape paintings depicting settings from medieval times to the Second Empire, master works from the Northern, Italian and French schools are all on the walls of the Palais Brongniart for the superb art fair, Paris Tableau, devoted to old paintings. Twenty-six internationally renowned art dealers and galleries will be exhibiting museum-quality pieces and featuring the finest works representative of their individual specialties. Special treasures include Christ Appearing to Mary Magdalene by the Italian Baroque painter Francesco Albani. The alluring work painted with the interesting technique of oil on copper is being presented by the Galerie Canesso and Benedetto di Montagna’s thought-provoking Saint Anthony and the Centaur, an oil on canvas, is being presented by the London gallery, Thomas Agnew & Sons while Charles Beddington Ltd, also of London, is showcasing a major work by Canaletto, the Piazza del Popolo, Rome. Nov 13-16 11am-8pm, until 10pm on the 13th and until 6:30pm on the 16th Place de la Bourse (2nd)
Returning to the Renaissance Dancing angels, a mystical wedding, Renaissance women of great beauty and the Virgin sleeping are among the scenes depicted in the masterpieces of the Renaissance that the Condé Museum of the Château of Chantilly is showcasing in an exhibition entitled Fra Angelico, Botticelli…Rediscovered Masterpieces. This exceptional show offers a panorama of the history of Tuscan painting of the 14th and 15th centuries. Florentine and Sienese painters of the Quattrocento, previously known as the Italian Primitives, form a significant part of the legacy of the Duke d’Aumale conserved at the Domain of Chantilly. Thirty major works from the collection, including paintings and drawings by Fra Angelico, Lippi, Botticelli, Leonardo da Vinci, among others, are being presented along with nine paintings on loan from leading international institutions.
Through Jan 4 Domaine de Chantilly Jeu de Paume, 60500 Chantilly, 03 44 27 31 80
A Festival of Light
The beguiling art works of the German artist Hans Kotter are being showcased at the Galerie NMariño. Fluorescent colours, infinite shapes and structures emerge, thoroughly submerging the ambient space. The spectacular works offer effects ranging from oscillation to refraction to diffraction and concentration, creating illusory shapes, fugitive, as if they were traces of luminous energy. The Berlin-based artist creates exclusively with artificial light. The works resulting from this technique, “paintings in light”, explains the artist, enable him to define himself as a “painter of light”, and this technique of light acts directly on the space and changes its aspect, provoking the observer to strive to find points of visual and perceptive reference. His works open up new dimensions of visual perception and in the use of light for its sensorial sublimation properties. Today, Hans Kotter is established as one of the leading artists working exclusively with artificial light. Galerie NMariño 8 rue des Coutures Saint-Gervais (3rd), 01 48 87 49 75
Bernardo Bellotto called Canaletto. The Piazza del Popolo, Rome. Courtesy Charles Beddington Ltd; Giovanni di Paolo (Sienne, 1398 - id., 1482) Cinq anges dansant au pied d’un trône Chantilly, musée Condé © RMN-Grand Palais (domaine de Chantilly)/Harry Bréjat; Raphaelle Photo ©Baudouin
Moments with the Masters
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Parisian Chic
art
A highly Parisian exhibition is being played out in the chic, sleek venue DS World Paris, a space devoted to Citroën’s premium car brand, the DS. Large format photographs capturing 12 Parisian women who drive or admire the DS car are being showcased on the different levels of the luminous space. The photographs, conceived and taken by portrait specialist Baudouin, depict the women in the environment of their own universe and feature a reference to a DS car somewhere in the picture. Citroën’s DS car is one of the mythical automobiles on the historic French automotive landscape. Conceived in 1955, the car, with its futuristic design, was mainly manufactured in Paris. The five current models in the DS brand are its direct descendants. You can reserve at DS World Paris a chauffeurdriven guided spin around town in a vintage DS.
Through November 29th 33 rue François Ier (8th), 01 53 57 33 08 Dali_EXE_where paris_120x133 mm.indd 1
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arts&attractions
Monuments
The triumphal arch commissioned by Napoleon and finished in 1836 stands in the centre of the Place Charles de Gaulle and boasts a fabulous view of the Champs-elysées and includes the tomb of the Unknown soldier. visit the interactive exhibit on the history surrounding the arch. open daily 10am-10:30pm, times may vary, last admission 45 minutes before closing, adults 9.50€, Children under 18 and eU citizens under 26: Free. Place Charles de Gaulle (8th), 01.55.37.73.77. M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile
eiffel Tower built as a temporary exhibit for the 1889 World’s Fair, the iron structure now symbolises Paris the world over. The tower sparkles with twinkling lights every hour on the hour from twilight to 2am. From Jun 15 through sept 1 9am-12:45am
(stairs and lifts). From sept 2 through Jun 14 lift open daily 9:30am-11:45pm, stairs open daily 9:30am-6:30pm. Last entries 45 minutes before closing. entry fee (5-15€ for adults) depends on how high you go. a champagne bar is on the top of the tower, open from noon to 10pm. www.tour-eiffel.fr Ave Gustave Eiffel (7th), 01.44.11.23.23. M° Trocadéro
hoTel des invAlides built by Louis Xiv as a hospital for veteran soldiers. Napoleon’s impressive tomb lies under the golden cupola of the eglise du Dome. The historic monument houses an interesting military museum. Daily 10am-5pm, last tickets 30 minutes before closing. 9.50€. www.invalides.org Place des Invalides, 129 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01.44.42.38.77. M° Invalides
monTpArnAsse Tower of pAris enjoy an exceptional panoramic visit of Paris from the montparnasse Tower. europe’s fastest elevator will take you to the top in 38 seconds to enjoy spectacular day or night views of Paris from 196 metres high in the sky. interactive exhibitions, a glass enclosed terrace, a gourmet café and gift shop are all part of the experience. Daily, winter 9:30am-10:30pm, summer 9:30am-11:30pm, last lift, half an hour before closing. www.tourmontparnasse56.com Rue de l’Arrivée (15th), 01.45.38.52.56. M° Montparnasse-Bienvenüe
noTre-dAme cAThedrAl Constructed between 1163 and 1345, it is a Gothic masterpiece. Free guided tours in english Wed and Thurs at 2pm & sat at 2:30pm. Through Dec 31 Paris disparu, Paris restitué, looks at the
Photo © Montparnasse 56
Arc de Triomphe
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The view from the Montparnasse Tower
history of Paris through the vestiges from Lutèce to the 19th century (in the crypt). www.crypte.paris.fr. Experience Quasimodo’s view of Paris from the towers Jul-Aug 10am-5:45pm weekdays, 10am-10:15pm Sat-Sun; Apr-Jun and Sep: 10am-5:45pm; Oct-Mar: 10am-4:45pm. 7.50€. 6 Parvis Notre- Dame (4th), 01.42.34.56.10. M° Cité
Palais Garnier-OPera de Paris Designed by architect Charles Garnier, and a brilliant example of Second Empire architecture. Daily visits on your own,10 am-4:30 pm (adults 10€, students and under 25, free) information: 08 92 89 90 90. Guided tours in English daily at 11:30am and 2:30pm Jul-Aug and school holidays; rest of year Wed, Sat and Sun, same times (14€). Daily 10am-5pm, 10€. For additional information on guided tours call 08.25.05.44.05. Place de l’Opéra (9th). M° Opéra
Palais rOyal
sacre cOeur de MOntMartre
The Palais Royal with its superb gardens offers a wonderful spot for strolling while the elegant and eclectic shops in the galleries that border the gardens are worth exploring. Some former famous residents of the apartments around the gardens include Colette and Jean Cocteau. The gardens and shops can be reached by the streets leading to the buildings. The palace, which houses the Conseil d’Etat, is closed to the public.
Located on the highest peak of Paris, the view from the Sacré Coeur is breathtaking. There is a guesthouse for pilgrims providing accommodation and meals. Daily 6am-10:30pm; Dome and crypt 9am-5:45pm.
Palais Royal (1st). M° Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre
sainte chaPelle
Place des VOsGes One of the oldest squares in the French capital, this beautiful architectural ensemble is a historic monument. A lovely green space is surrounded by red brick buildings with blue slate roofs. Shops, galleries and delightful cafés and boutiques line the sides of the square. Place des Vosges (4th). M° Chemin Vert
www.sacre-coeur-montmartre.fr. 35 rue du Chevalier-de-la-Barre (18th), 01.53.41.89.09. M° Anvers
A jewel-like chapel on the Ile de la Cité in the courtyard of the Palais de Justice with High Gothic stained glass windows, at its finest on days when there isn’t a cloud in the sky. Daily 9am-5pm, last tickets 30 minutes before closing time, times may vary. 8.50€. Free for children under 18 and EU citizens under 26. 2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01.53.40.60.97. M° Cité w w w.w he re t r ave l e r. com 69
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Address Book
arts&attractions
For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris art galleries Galerie Bernheim-Jeune
The Bernheims organised Van Gogh’s first Paris exhibit and also presented Cézanne, Matisse and others. Now run by descendants of the founder, the gallery exhibits contemporary artists and publishes art books. Tue-Sat 10:30am-12:30pm & 2:30pm-6:30pm. 83 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.66.60.31. M° Miromesnil
Galerie Daniel Templon
A contemporary gallery featuring established and up-and-coming artists. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. 30 rue Beaubourg (3rd), 01.42.72.14.10. M° Rambuteau
Galerie de Jonckheere
Museum-quality 16th and 17th-century Flemish paintings, including works by the Breughels and Cranach the Elder. Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm. 100 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.66.69.49. M° Miromesnil
Galerie Lelong
This quintessential Parisian gallery features the works of leading contemporary artists. Tues-Fri 10:30am-6pm. Sat 2pm-6:30pm.13 rue de Téhéran (8th), 01.45.63.13.19. M° Miromesnil
Galerie Maeght
This landmark Parisian gallery opened in 1946 and presents exhibitions of leading modern and contemporary artists. There is also a superb bookstore carrying art books, fine art posters and lithographs. Mon 10am-6pm. Tues-Sat 9:30am-7pm. 42 rue du Bac (7th), 01.45.48.45.15. M° Rue du Bac
Galerie Malingue
This prestigious gallery has been welcoming discerning art collectors for over three decades. With three lofty exhibition rooms, it proffers a journey into the Modern Art adventure. Renoir, Cézanne, Picasso, Dali, Miró are all found in this fine and sublime house of art. Tues-Fri 10:30am-12:30pm & 2:30pm-6:30pm, Mon (and Sat only during exhibitions) 2:30pm-6:30pm. 26 ave Matignon (8th), 01.42.66.60.33. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt
Galerie Marian Goodman
The Paris branch of the renowned New York gallery. Artists include John Baldessari, Christian Boltanski. Giuseppe Penone, Gerhard Richter, Jeff Wall. Tues-Sat 11am-7pm. 79 rue du Temple (3rd), 01.48.04.70.52. M° Rambuteau
Disneyland Paris
Galerie Nathalie Obadia
This contemporary gallery features fine, collectable works by both established and up-and-coming artists. Mon-Sat 11am-7pm. 3 rue du Cloître SaintMerri (4th), 01.42.74.67.68. M° Hôtel de VIlle
Galerie Olwen Forest
Gallery exhibiting vintage costume, couture jewels and Art Deco crystal jewellery, as well as jewells created by designers such as Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel. Jewellery made for the cinema and a selection of vintage jewels telling the story of rock and roll. Permanent exhibition Erotica/ Exotica, featuring vintage pieces juxtaposing the two themes. From Sat-Mon. St-Ouen Flea Market, Marché Serpette, 110 rue des Rosiers, St-Ouen. 01.40.11.96.38. M° Porte de Clignancourt
Galerie Polad-Hardouin
This contemporary art gallery nestled in the heart of the Marais offers a spacious setting for over 30 artists, both established and emerging. Works with strong pictorial choices are featured here. The gallery remains faithful to the New Figuration movement. Conferences animated by specialists are organised throughout the year. Tues-Sat 11am-7pm. 86 rue Quincampoix (3rd), 01.42.71.05.29. M° Rambuteau
Galerie Russkiy Mir
This well-appointed gallery features works by contemporary Russian artists including Anatoly Poutilline, Masha Schmidt, Marina Nikolaeva, Andrei Tyrtyshnikov and Vladimir Sichov. 7 rue Miromesnil (8th), 01.44.71.07.41. M° Miromesnil
Galerie Schmit
Three generations of art experts present museum quality paintings by 19th and 20th century French masters. Covering periods from the impressionists, the fauves, the Cubists and others. Mon-Fri, 10am-12:30pm/2pm-6pm. 396 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.36.36. M° Concorde
Opera Gallery
Modern Masters: Botero, Chagall, Léger, Miró and Picasso, and a selection of contemporary artists: Combas, Corda, Mach, Mr. Brainwash and Quinn. Art pieces exhibited in a gallery space located just a few steps from Place Vendôme. Open Mon to Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11:30am-7pm. 356 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.42.96.39.00. M° Concorde
attractions Aquarium de Paris (Cinéaqua)
Discover the world of the sea at this delightful aquarium. Daily 10am-7pm, first Sat of the month until 10pm, last tickets one hour before closing. 5 ave Albert de Mun (16th), 01.40.69.23.23. M° Iéna
Canal Saint-Martin
This trendy Parisian neighbourhood has a wide array of bars, restaurants and eclectic shops lining the sides of this functioning canal which links the Villette basin to the Arsenal port. Quai de Jemmapes/Quai de Valmy, (10th). M° République
Disneyland Paris
Open 365 days a year. Disneyland Park surrounds you with all your favourite characters and the latest attractions. Daily 10am-7pm, also check website for opening hours on day of visit. RER A to Marne La Vallée/Chessy (40-65 min)
Les Étoiles du Rex
Travel to the heart of cinema. A unique and interactive visit into the magical world of cinema and into the backstage of the largest movie theatre in Europe. Fabulous fun and entertainment for the whole family. WedSun 10am-7pm including bank holidays and everyday during French school holidays. 1 blvd Poissonnière (2nd), 01.45.08.93.58. M° Bonne Nouvelle
Le Manoir de Paris
The urban legends of Paris come to life in this haunted manor house and listed historic monument. Fri 6pm-10pm & Sat, Sun 3pm-7pm. 18 rue de Paradis (10th), M° Château d’Eau
Parc Zoologique de Paris
This beautiful zoo presents in 16 natural environments some 1,000 animals, birds, mammals, reptiles, amphibians and fish representing 180 species. Entrance located at the corner of the ave Daumesnil and the Route de Ceinture du lac Daumesnil (12th), 01.40.79.31.25. M° Château de Vincennes then 46 bus to zoo
Paris Story
A fun and educational way to discover the city of Paris through an exceptional audiovisual presentation. Daily 10am-6pm, projection every hour on the hour. 11bis rue Scribe (9th), 01.42.66.62.06. M° Opéra/Chaussée d’Antin
Aquarium de Paris (Cinéaqua)
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Address Book
Pavillons de Bercy
Yachts de Paris
The most luxurious of all the river boats. Private cruises, parties, receptions as well as nightly gourmet dinner cruises. Port Henri IV (4th), 01.44.54.14.70. M° Pont de Sully
and formal French gardens is one of the most beautiful in France. The castle’s vast French gardens, punctuated by fountains and water basins, are regarded as royal gardener Andre Le Nôtre’s masterwork. By car 55 km from Paris. Maincy 77950, 01.64.14.41.90
day trips
Giverny
boat cruises
Auvers sur Oise
Discover a decorative and diverse wonderland replete with a Theatre of Marvels, a fantastic garden and a museum devoted to rides and attractions found in amusement fairs from 1850 to 1950. 53 ave des Terroirs de France (12th), 01.43.40.16.15. M° Cour Saint-Emillion
Bateaux Parisiens
Giant glass-roofed tour boats departing every hour on the hour, 10am-10pm (except 1pm & 7:30pm). Lunch and dinner cruises also available. Port de la Bourdonnais (7th), 08.25.01.01.01. M° Trocadéro
Bateaux-Mouches
The legendary cruise company has been navigating the Seine for over 60 years. Doubledecker tour boats proffer fine vistas of the capital. Departures every 45 min, 11am-9pm. Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. M° Alma-Marceau
Batobus
A sleek “shuttle boat” making 8 stops including the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, the Jardin des Plantes and the Town Hall. 10:30am-7pm. 08.25.05.01.01
Paris Luxury Boat
Enjoy an original and romantic cruise on board your own private boat. Ensconced in a mahogany Riva runabout of the 1960s enjoy the Seine and the heart of Paris. The captain and bilingual hostess welcome you on board with beverages and canapés. Reservations required, 5 persons maximum. 06.60.16.00.79/ 01.46.05.59.14.
River Limousine
Take in a private cruise on the Seine on board a custom-built luxurious boat replete with a salon and a bottle of champagne. Reservations required. 06.86.07.87.37.
Vedettes de Paris
Offering one-hour cruises departing from the Eiffel Tower. 11am-11:30am & 1:30pm-6pm, boats 30 min apart. Special theme cruises also available including a champagne tasting cruise. Port de Suffren (7th), 01.44.18.19.50. M° Bir Hakeim/ RER C Champs de Mars
The French countryside and the village where Van Gogh spent the last months of his life are just 27 kilometres from Paris. In town you can visit a 17th century chateau and the Maison Van Gogh (open Mar through Oct). SNCF from Gare du Nord to Valmondois, then change for Auvers-surOise (about 1 hr 15 min)
Chartres
The town of Chartres is known for its splendid cathedral with magnificent stained glass windows. You can also visit the Centre International du Vitrail, a workshop and museum devoted to stained glass which is unique in Europe. SNCF from Gare Montparnasse (about 1 hr); last return train to Paris about 9pm.
Château de Fontainebleau
A residence of the French kings from the 12th to the 19th century, this royal château is famous for its superb Renaissance decor by Italian artists. Wed-Mon 9:30am-5pm. 01.60.71.50.70. SNCF Grandes Lignes from Gare de Lyon to Fontainebleau-Avon (40 min), then a short bus or shuttle ride from the station.
Château de Versailles
Louis XIV’s magnificent palace, with the Hall of Mirrors, Grands Appartements and Le Nôtre’s superb gardens. The Chateau is open TueSun 9am-6:00pm. Gardens open daily 8 am to sunset; free. Avenue Rockefeller. 01.30.83.78.00. RER C to Versailles Chateau Rive Gauche
Château et Domaine de Chantilly
North of Paris, a 16th-century royal château with a beautiful park and a fabulous art collection. Mon-Sun 10:30am-5pm. 03.44.57.40.40. SNCF at the Gare du Nord (25 min) or RER D to Chantilly– Gouvieux (45 min) then take the free bus no. 15 marked “Senlis” to the château.
Château de Vaux le Vicomte
This unique estate with its 17th century castle
Bateaux-Mouches
Enter into the world of the Impressionists in this dreamy village west of Paris where Claude Monet arrived in 1883. This little spot in Normandy is also rich in castles, mills, gardens and a wealth of museums. Monet’s home, gardens and the immortalized water lily ponds remain, all opened to the public at the Fondation Claude Monet. 84 rue Claude Monet, SNCF from the Gare St. Lazare to Gare de Vernon, 45 minutes, then the No. 240 bus to Giverny. 02.32.51.28.21
La Maison Vignobles & Chateaux
Discover the art of tasting Bordeaux wine and the diversity of its vintages in this welcoming establishment located in the medieval town of Saint-Emillion. A large selection of fine Bordeaux wines is available in the boutique and tasting courses are given at the Ecole du Vin de Saint- Emillion. Private classes and a special wine day can also be booked. 4 rue du Clocher, Saint-Emilion, 05.57.24.61.01. SNCF TGV train from the Gare Montparnasse to the Gare de Libourne (3 hours), 10 km to Saint- Emilion, by train, taxi or car.
Musée National du Chateau de Malmaison
This delightful 17th century castle on the outskirts of Paris was the rural home of Josephine and Napoleon Bonaparte. 10am-12:30pm/13:30pm-5:45pm/Until 6:15pm Sat & Sun. Closed Tues. Ave du château de Malmaison, 01.41.29.05.55. Metro or RER to la Défense then bus 258 to the stop Château
Troyes
A delightful small city in the heart of the Champagne country. Narrow streets of halftimbered houses with gabled roofs and private mansions dating from the Renaissance are an integral part of the charm of this quintessential provincial town, which became the seat of the Counts of Champagne in the 9th century. The city is doted with a fine array of museums, a superb cathedral and spectacular churches. Direct trains depart regularly from the Gare de l’Est (about 90 minutes)
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gardens Jardin d’Acclimatation
A traditional French children’s park in the scenic Bois de Boulogne replete with rides, exhibitions, pavilions, a puppet theatre, a riding academy, restaurants and picnic grounds. Daily 10am-6pm. Ave du Mahatma Gandhi, Bois de Boulogne (16th), 01.40.67.90.85. M° Les Sablons
Jardin des Tuileries
This vast park filled with peaceful wide alleyways for strolling and an octagonal water basin offers a place for a promenade between the Pyramide du Louvre and the Place de la Concorde. Sculptures by Maillol, Rodin, Dubuffet and Louise Bourgeois are among the jewels set in these refreshing gardens. Jardin des Tuileries (1st), M° Concorde
Jardin du Luxembourg
These lovely gardens were built upon the initiative of Queen Marie de Medici in 1612. They are composed of both English and French gardens, a large pond an orchard of old vintage fruit trees and an apiary. Activities for adults include chess, tennis and remote control boats while children can a puppet theatre, rides and slides. Rue de Médicis - Rue de Vaugirard (6th), M° Odéon
guided tours 4 Roues Sous 1 Parapluie
These innovative concept tours are conducted on board the mythical 2CV car. Tours throughout Paris and the surroundings are available as well as thematic visits for children, or for romance for example. Customised visits and services may be organised as well. 06.67.32.26.68.
Paris l’Open Tour
Open-topped buses and over 50 stops. Buy tickets on board, at hotels, or at their boutique office. 13 rue Auber (9th), 01.42.66.56.56. M° Opéra
Paris Vision
City tours, day and evening excursions, trips to the Loire and other regions. 214 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.55.60.00. M° Tuileries
museums & fondations Albert-Kahn Musée et Jardins
Centre Georges Pompidou
France’s top modern art museum, with some 56,000 works by more than 5000 artists. WedMon 11am-9pm, (last tickets 8pm). Place Georges Pompidou (4th), 01.44.78.12.33. M° Rambuteau
La Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine
The Palais de Chaillot now houses the Museum collection of French Monuments as part of the permanent collection in the Pavillon de Tête, while the temporary exhibits are housed in the left wing of the Pavillon d’About. The museum is composed of three Galeries: Galerie des Moulages, Galerie des Peintures and Galeries d’Architecture Moderne et Contemporaine. Bookstore, restaurant and cafe on the premises. Mon, Wed, Fri 12 pm - 8 pm, Thur 12pm-10pm, Sat-Sun 11am-7pm. Palais de Chaillot, 1 Place du Trocadero et du 11 Novembre (16th), 01.58.51.52.00. M° Trocadéro
Espace Dali
In the heart of Montmartre, the only permanent exhibition, in France, entirely devoted to the master of Surrealism, and more particularly to his sculptures and engravings. Daily 10am-6pm. 11 rue Poulbot (18th), 01.42.64.40.10. M° Abbesses/ Anvers
Fondation Cartier pour l’Art Contemporain A contemporary art centre designed by Jean Nouvel with an excellent book shop and lovely garden. Tue 11am-10pm, Wed-Sun 11am-8pm. 261 blvd Raspail (14th), 01.42.18.56.50. M° Raspail
Fondation Louis Vuitton
This cultural institution in the Bois de Boulogne is devoted to contemporary art and creation. Exhibition spaces display permanent collections and temporary exhibitions. 8 ave du Mahatma Gandhi (16th), 01.40.69.96.10. M° Sablons
Fondation Mona Bismarck
Founded in the 1980s by the Countess Mona Bismarck to encourage scholastic and artistic exchanges between Americans and the French. Sat noon-6:30pm. 34 ave de New York (16th), 01.47.23.38.88. M° Alma-Marceau
Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais
National art galleries in the glass-roofed exhibit hall built for the 1900 World’s Fair. ThuMon 10am-8pm, Wed to 10pm. 3 ave Général Eisenhower (8th), 01.44.13.17.17. M° Champs-ElyséesClemenceau
Institut du Monde Arabe
Designed by architect Jean Nouvel, a cultural center and museum of Arab and Islamic arts. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm; Library: Tues-Sat 1pm-8pm. 1 rue des Fossés-St-Bernard (5th), 01.40.51.38.38. M° Jussieu
Musée Carnavalet
A wonderful museum of Paris history in two adjoining 16th and 17th-century private mansions in the Marais. Tue-Sun 10am-6 pm. Tue-Sun 10am- 6pm. 23 rue de Sévigné (3rd), 01.44.59.58.58. M° St-Paul
Musée d’Art et d’Histoire du Judaisme
A beautiful museum of Jewish art and history in a 17th century mansion. Mon-Fri 11 am-6 pm, Sun 10 am-6 pm. Hôtel de St-Aignan, 71 rue du Temple (3rd), 01.53.01.86.60. M° Hôtel de Ville
Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris
The city’s modern art museum offers a permanent collection covering the entire 20th century. Tue-Sun 10am-6 pm. 11 ave du Président Wilson (16th), 01.53.67.40.00. M° Alma-Marceau/ Trocadéro
Musée d’Orsay
A dramatically renovated former train station devoted to 19th and 20th century art, including the Impressionists, Manet, Van Gogh and Gauguin. Tue-Sun 9:30am-6pm, last tickets at 5pm. 1 rue de la Légion d’Honneur (7th), 01.40.49.48.14. M° Solférino
Musée de l’Air et de l’Espace
Here you will find 350 authentic aeroplanes, 1,000 scale models, thousands of works of art and one of the finest collections of aircraft in the world ranging from 17th century balloons to the Concorde. Tue-Sun 10am-5pm. Aéroport de Paris-Le Bourget, 93352 Le Bourget, 01.49.92.70.00. Take the number 350 bus from the Gare du Nord directly to the museum.
Musée de l’Orangerie
In the heart of Paris in the Tuileries Garden this completely renovated museum allows the visitor to discover the spectacular ensemble of Monet’s Water Lilies in natural lighting as well as the 144 works of art in the Walter-Guillaume Collection (including Renoir, Cézanne, Modigliani, Matisse, Picasso, Derain, Soutine). Wed-Mon 9am- 6pm. Jardin des Tuileries, entrance Place de la Concorde (1st), 01.44.77.80.07. M° Concorde
Musée de la Magie
A fantasy world awaits in this space devoted to magic. Beneath 16th century vaulted cellars are optical illusions, magic art and more. The visit
© Tourist Office / Marc Bertrand
The home and gardens of a 19th century philanthropist who hired pioneer photographers to document life around the world. The permanent collection includes 72,000 glassplate autochromes. From 1909 to 1931, the philanthropist Kahn sent reporters all over the world to document the lifestyles of indigenous
peoples that he believed would soon disappear. 14 rue du Port, Boulogne-Billancourt, 01.55.19.28.00. M° Boulogne-Pont de St-Cloud
Musée du Louvre
Petit Palais
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Address Book
winds up with a superb magic show. Wed, Sat, Sun and school holidays. 2pm-7pm. 11 rue Saint Paul (4th), 01.42.72.13.26. M° Saint-Paul
Oceania and the Americas. Tue, Wed & Sun 11am-7pm, Thur, Fri & Sat 11am-9pm. 37 Quai Branly (7th), 01.56.61.70.00. M° Alma Marceau
Musée de la Vie Romantique
Musée du Vin
A lovely 19th century home and garden with mementos of George Sand and paintings by Ary Scheffer. Tue-Sun 10 am-6 pm. 16 rue Chaptal (9th), 01.55.31.95.67. M° Blanche
Musée des Arts Décoratifs
A semi-private museum with a fabulous collection of decorative arts-furniture, housewares, ceramics and porcelain, paintings and objets d’art, dating from the late Middle Ages to 21st century design, including a dozen sumptuously furnished period rooms. Tue-Fri 11 am-6 pm, Sat-Sun 10 am-6 pm, Thu until 9pm. 107 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.55.57.50. M° Palais Royal
Musée des Arts et Métiers
A marvelous display of some 3,000 scientific and technological discoveries and inventions through the centuries, including Pascal’s 1642 calculator and Foucault’s 1855 pendulum. TueSun 10 am-6 pm, Thu 10 am- 9:30 pm. 60 rue Réaumur (3rd), 01.53.01.82.00. M° Arts et Métiers
Musée des Lettres et des Manuscrits
Created in 2004, by ‘The International Academy of Arts and Collections’, this romantic museum houses the original document of Einstein-Besso regarding the theory of relativity, a rare partition from Mozart, letters from Napoleon and poems from Paul Eluard, Voltaire and Manet. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm, Thurs until 8pm. 222 blvd St-Germain (7th), 01.42.22.48.48. M° Rue du Bac
Musée du Louvre
One of the world’s most important art collections, including the Mona Lisa, European painting and sculpture, large-format 19th century French paintings, Greek, Roman and Egyptian antiquities. Open Wed-Mon 9 am-6 pm (to 9:45 pm Wed & Fri, reduced price after 6 pm). 99 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.40.20.53.17. M° Palais-Royal/Louvre-Rivoli
Musée du Parfum
Discover the world of perfume and perfume making in this delightful museum operated by Fragonard, the legendary Grasse-based perfume and essence maker ensconced in a superb Napoleon III town house. This year Fragonard is celebrating the lily of the valley. Free. Mon-Sat 9am-6pm, Sun and holidays 9am-5pm. 9 rue Scribe (9th), 01.47.42.04.56. M° Opéra
Musée du Quai Branly
Musée Galliera
Formerly the 19th century Palais de la Duchesse de Galliera, this is the city’s fashion museum. TueSun 10 am-6 pm. 10 ave Pierre 1er de Serbie (16th), 01.56.52.86.00. M° léna/Alma-Marceau
Musée Grévin
A wax museum displaying more than 300 life-sized historical and modern French and international figures. The restored Palais des Mirages plunges the visitor into a giant, mirrored kaleidoscope. Mon-Fri 10am-6:30pm, Sat-Sun, bank and school holidays 10am-7pm (last tickets one hour before closing). 10 blvd Montmartre (9th), 01.47.70.85.05. M° Grands Boulevards
Musée Guimet
This museum houses one of the most extensive collections of Asian art in Europe, displaying over 4,000 works of art from the continent’s myriad cultures and civilisations, spanning five millennia. Daily 10am-6pm, last entrance at 5:30pm, closed Tues. 6 Place d’Iéna (16th), 01.56.52.53.00. M° Iéna/Boissière
Musée Jacquemart-André
The mansion of 19th century magnate Edouard André and his wife Nélie Jacquemart, whose stunning collection of furniture and art includes an Italian section with works by Mantegna, Uccello and Botticelli. Daily 10am-6pm, Mon & Sat until 9:30pm (for temporary exhibitions only). 158 blvd Haussmann (8th), 01.45.62.11.59. M° Miromesnil
France’s fascinating maritime museum, with superb scale models of ships dating as far back as Louis XV. Mon-Fri 11am- 6pm/Sat & Sun 11am-7pm. Palais de Chaillot, 17 pl du Trocadéro (16th), 01.53.65.69.69. M° Trocadéro
Musée Picasso
A major collection of Picasso’s works - paintings, drawings, sculptures, ceramics - displayed in a beautifully restored 17th century mansion in the trendy Marais district. Tues-Fri 11:30am-6pm, Sat & Sun 9:30am-6pm, late night until 9pm, the third Friday of the month. 5 rue Thorigny (3rd), 01.42.71.25.21. M° St Sébastien Froissart
Musée Rodin
Sculpture by Auguste Rodin, with works by his pupil and muse Camille Claudel, in a former private mansion, with its famous gardens and chapel. Tue-Sun 9:30am-5:45pm (last tickets 5:15 pm), late night Wed until 9pm; garden closes at 5:00 pm. 79 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.44.18.61.10. M° Varenne
Museum National d’Histoire Naturelle
A natural history museum famed for its Grande Galerie de l’Evolution, a stunning display of thousands of animal species with an area devoted to children. Other galleries house the rich collections of paleontology, comparative anatomy, mineralogy and geology. The galleries and exhibition halls are surrounded by the botanical gardens of Paris and one of the oldest zoological gardens in the world, the Ménagerie. The restored tropical greenhouses have reopened after a five-year face-lift. The Galerie des Enfants is a space geared for children aged 6-12 devoted to biodiversity and the environment. Wed-Mon 10 am-6 pm, Sat late night until 8 pm. Jardin des Plantes, 36 rue Geoffroy Saint-Hilaire (5th), 01.40.79.54.79. M° Censier-Daubenton/Austerlitz
Petit Palais
Musée Maillol
A museum created by Dina Vierny, the former model and muse of sculptor Aristide Maillol, displaying his sculptures and drawings along with works by Kandinsky, Matisse and others. Daily 10:30am-7pm, Fri until 9:30pm. 59-61 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01.42.22.59.58. M° Rue du Bac
The city’s fine arts museum, in a beautifully renovated 1900 building. The extensive permanent collection offers a panorama of art from antiquity to the early 20th century. TuesSun 10am-6pm, late night Thurs until 8pm. Ave Winston Churchill (8th), 01.53.43.40.00. M° ChampsElysées Clemenceau
Musée Marmottan Monet
Pinacothèque
A beautiful and delightful museum in a private mansion housing the world’s largest collection of works by Claude Monet. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm (last tickets at 5:30pm), Thurs until 8pm. 2 rue Louis Boilly (16th), 01.44.96.50.33. M° La Muette
An exhibition space dedicated to the various forms of art showcasing superb exhibitions. Mon, Tues, Thurs, Sat, Sun 10:30am-6:30pm & Wed, Fri 10:30am-9:30pm. 28 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.68.02.01. M° Madeleine
©C. Recoura
© Yves Forestier
An extensive and dramatically displayed collection of indigenous arts from Africa, Asia,
Opened in 1984, the Wine Museum is a cultural center exhibiting the rich and varied collections of French wine housed in one of Paris’ oldest limestone quarries. Tue-Sun 10 am-6 pm. 5 Square Charles Dickens(16th), 01.45.25.70.89. M° Passy
Musée National de la Marine
Musée Marmottan Monet
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The Guide
dining
Turn to page 84 and enter the Cordon Bleu
Cordon Bleu photo © Le Cordon Bleu International 2014; Porte 12 photo © Alexandre Ciolek; porte 12 dish photo © Felix Vigne Castalie
Restaurants | Brunch | Cooking Schools | Gourmet Dining | Designer Desserts
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DINING
Restaurants
Porte 12 You have to ring a bell to be admitted to this rather mysterious bistro in a former lingerie factory in the 10th arrondissement, but once inside, its spare neo-Scandinavian décor and artful lighting make it one of the best looking restaurants to have opened in Paris for a long-time (the look was designed by RARE studio in London). It’s not the slightly austere beauty of the room that’s made this restaurant the hit of the rentrée, or autumn season, in Paris, however, but the exquisite contemporary cooking of young chef Vincent Crepel. Crepel most recently cooked with André Chiang at his much-lauded eponymous restaurant in Singapore, and his style has the same intense technical precision of Chiang, but grounded by an earthiness that comes from his southwestern French background. The menu changes regularly, but dishes like grilled mackerel with a rich tunabelly butter and cucumber sorbet and Black Angus beef grilled over bamboo charcoal with watercress and baby potatoes show off Crepel’s fascination with Asia, remarkable culinary imagination and love of the best French produce. – Alexander Lobrano. 12 rue des Messageries (10th), 01 42 46 22 54
Route de la Soie
Cordon Bleu photo © Le Cordon Bleu International 2014; Porte 12 photo © Alexandre Ciolek; porte 12 dish photo © Felix Vigne Castalie
Charming restaurateur Jacque Loc Tran’s elegant new Right Bank address has quickly become as popular with connoisseurs of Japanese cooking as his very stylish original Left Bank Orient Extrême in the heart of Saint-Germain-des-Prés. Low lighting flatters both customers and the refined décor, and charming service and a great wine list make this table an ideal choice for a tête-à-tête over some beautifully prepared and exquisitely fresh sushi and sashimi. There are many other dishes not to miss here, though, including a superb yellowtail carpaccio with yuzu (Japanese citrus) and green pepper and an irresistible grilled aubergine in a sweet miso sauce. Among the signature main courses, steamed sea bass with ginger, coriander and chives is light but full of flavour and the tempura is exceptionally delicate, too. Finish up with some of the matcha cake from the Japanese pastry shop Yamazaki or the refreshing fruit salad. – A.L. 20 rue Scheffer (16th), 01 45 05 58 35
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Restaurants
Ledoyen I’ve been following chef Yannick Alléno’s delicious career ever since I discovered his cooking after he won his first Michelin star at the Hotel Scribe in 2004. There, his style was so elegant and modern, but deeply rooted in the best traditions of French culinary technique, that I was eager to meet him after dinner. He was amiable, modest and slightly bashful, telling me that his food was more eloquent than he could ever be in terms of explaining his style. This augured as far as I was concerned, and indeed it did. From the Scribe, Alléno went on to the Hotel Le Meurice, where he went on to win three Michelin stars, and now he finally has a Paris restaurant to call his own, the handsome Pavillon Ledoyen in the gardens of the ChampsElysées just a short walk from the Place de la Concorde. Decorator Jacques Grange designed the beautiful dining room on the first floor with views over the surrounding trees in 1994, and it has been freshened up a bit without diluting its considerable charm. Alléno wisely kept most of the staff who has been working here, too, they’re consummate pros, so even though the menu has changed completely, the restaurant still has a pleasantly tranquil and settled atmosphere. Our meal began with a deceptively simple dish that conveyed almost everything I’ve ever loved about
Alléno’s style, a stunningly fresh fillet of mackerel posed on a bed of hibiscus gelée with shiso leaves. Faberge-like in its beauty, it achieved that rare culinary sorcery of being simple and complex at the same time. This was the theme of an excellent meal, which ran to such stunningly original and well-reasoned dishes as turbot roasted with bone marrow and served with a gratin of artichokes and Parmesan, a stuffed cèpe mushroom prepared à la civet with juniper berries, and a lush filet of Wagyu beef with crispy olive filled ravioli and green tomatoes. The orange ‘pearls’ surrounded by a ring of meringue was one of the most remarkably original and unexpectedly refreshing desserts I’ve eaten in a very long time, and walking home after this long luxurious meal, I couldn’t help but think that Alléno isn’t likely to regret the three stars he left behind at Le Meurice for a very long time. – A.L.
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dining
Restaurants
Brasserie Stella For anyone in search of some seriously good people-watching and an excellent meal, this chic and very good brasserie in the silk-stocking 16th arrondissement puts on one of the best shows in town. Its clientele is mostly Parisian and the quality of the cooking at this independently owned restaurant, many Paris brasseries are now part of chains, makes it a perfect choice when you want a good straightforward French feed. Saucy waiters in long white aprons serve huge trays of freshly shucked oysters, steak tartare, blanquette de veau, and grilled sole, among other dishes, and it’s an especially good choice on a Sunday night, but be sure to book, since it’s very popular. – A.L. 133 ave Victor Hugo (16th), 01 56 90 56 00
Weekend Brunch at Le Camélia Right in the heart of Paris just steps from the Louvre, the Place Vendôme and the Place de la Concorde, the strikingly elegant Le Camélia offers one of the best Sunday brunches in the city. The lavish 88-euro prix-fixe meal includes juice, coffee or tea, and then unlimited trips to one of the best buffets in Paris. It includes a superb selection of charcuterie by esteemed Paris charcutier Gilles Vérot, smoked salmon, sushi, salads, and Lebanese dishes, among many other things. Once you’ve eaten to your heart’s content, the waiter will take your order for a main course, maybe beef Wellington, eggs benedict, an excellent cheeseburger, Japanese style sea bream, or one of many other dishes. The grand finale is a visit to the pastry counter at the entrance to the restaurant, where staff will ply you to order more than one of the sublime pastries on display in a glass case. Suffice it to say it wasn’t hard to persuade me to have both a miniature Saint-Honoré and a lemon tartelette, and that it is very easy to spend a whole afternoon over this excellent feast. – A.L. Mandarin Oriental Paris Hotel 251 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 70 98 78 88
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DURAND DUPONT FRENCH CUISINE
4Open 4 4O Open pen everyday, service non stop from 8am to 2am 4Brunch Brunch every Sunday available4Afterwork DJ’s 4Patio 4 Patio and terrace available Afterwork Monday to Saturday evenings with DJ D J’s ’s
Situated on a quiet square in the west of Paris, next to Porte Maillot, this restaurant not only offers delicious French fare but also a charming terrace to soak in the Parisian sun. Durand Dupont is an ideal table for a business lunch or a dinner in the intimate patio. And from the cellar, you can enjoy the ideal wine choosen by the best sommeliers to accompany a variety of dishes.
For your starter enjoy the crayfish salad with traditional French mustard. Then savour the black cod served with Laos rice, followed by an orange rind-flavoured rice pudding for dessert.
14 Place du Marché (92 - Neuilly sur Seine) / Metro: Porte Maillot / Les Sablons Tel: 01 41 92 93 00 www.duranddupont.com
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dining
Gourmet Dining
Sublime
ScallopS By Patricia Valicenti
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T
he coquille Saint-Jacques, or the king scallop, a gourmet favourite, perhaps even the most sought after of all the molluscs, has been on the face of the earth since prehistoric times. Fished since at least the Middle Ages, this savoury shellfish became a symbol for pilgrims to the sanctuary of Saint James in Compostella in Spain, which brought into being its French name, coquille, meaning shell and Saint-Jacques, French for Saint James. The bivalve favours sandy or weedy seabeds along the coast and in France the delicacy is generally found in the cold waters off the coasts of the Pas de Calais in northern France, Normandy and Brittany. Most of France’s coquilles Saint-Jacques are fished in Normandy, whose Saint-Jacques received their red label in 2002. The Bay of Saint-Brieuc in Brittany is home to the largest coquille Saint-Jacques fishery in France and these were the first shellfish in France to receive a label of approval back in 1995.
photos © Resto partner
In France, the fishing of these scallops is essentially forbidden from April to October, with the first much-awaited coquilles SaintJacques of the season arriving in November. RestoPartner, which groups together some 60 Parisian restaurants dedicated to quality cuisine and the use of seasonal products is
For additional restaurants as well as recipes to download (in French) visit http://restopartner.com Quinzaine Gourmande de la Noix de Saint-Jacques From the 10th to the 23rd of November
honouring the venerable shellfish for 15 days in November with the Quinzaine Gourmande de la Noix de Saint-Jacques, an event where ten of the member establishments feature coquilles Saint-Jacques on their menus in a host of specially conceived recipes. So in a whirlwind here are some new takes for the ancient king of the molluscs that you can try out this month in Paris. Over at Millésimes 62 chef David Ditte prepares the Saint-Jacques with bacon and beans delicately set off with a beurre blanc and served in a casserole. Meanwhile, Jean-Claude Bertrand at Le Laumière does a nice take on sautéed Saint-Jacques with organic spelt and Parmesan cheese. The coquilles Saint-Jacques from the Port-en-Bessin beds are being prepared in a carpaccio with thinly sliced beets, baby spinach leaves and olive oil over at La Marée by Teddy Merienne and sautéed Saint- Jacques with endives candied with orange are on the menu at Flottes from chef Eric Salmon. Coquilles sautéed with citrus fruits and served with endives and a lemon grass vinaigrette are just in from Philippe Léglise at Chez Françoise while the chef at Pasco, D. Barsso, has prepared grilled Saint-Jacques with Serrano ham served with potatoes mashed with black olives, and Mathieu Scherrer over at the scenic River Café is simply roasting the Saint-Jacques and is serving them with fresh girolle mushrooms.
Chez Françoise
la Maree
MillesiMes 62
river CaFe
Aérogare des Invalides, rue Robert Esnault-Pelterie (7th), 01 47 05 49 03
1 rue Daru (8th), 01 43 80 20 00
13 place de Catalogne (14th), 01 43 35 34 35
146 Quai Stalingrad, 92130 Issy-les-Moulineaux, 01 40 93 50 20
Flottes 2 rue Cambon (1st), 01 42 60 80 89
le lauMiere
PasCo
4 rue Petit (19th), 01 42 02 46 71
74 blvd de la Tour-Maubourg (7th), 01 44 18 33 26
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DININg
Restaurant Advertorial
le roland-garros French cuisine, 16th The restaurant Le Roland-Garros in the heart of the mythical stadium has a warm and friendly atmosphere. The Chef prepares original dishes that are contemporary and refined, combining tradition and modernity. Open for Lunch and Dinner, dining room with fireplace, brunch on Sundays. 2 bis avenue Gordon-Bennett, Paris 16th Tel: +33 (0)1 47 43 49 56 reservation.rolandgarros@sodexo-prestige.fr www.rolandgarros-salons.com
58 tour eiffel French cuisine, 7th French Cuisine in the heart of the Eiffel Tower. Lunch: A ‘chic picnic’ menu served at the table (with or without reservations) offering an exceptional view of Paris by day. In the evening the restaurant takes on a new dimension. Dinner: An ultra contemporary decor and a chic trendy menu is served at your table. Open every day (lunch as from 11:30am; dinner: 6:30pm or 9pm) 1st floor of the Eiffel Tower / Champ de Mars, Paris 7th www.restaurants-toureiffel.com Metro: Bir-Hakeim RER: Champ de Mars Tour Eiffel
la locanda Italian cuisine, 6th Autumn is here along with funghi porcini and white truffle. For summer lovers, mozzarella di bufala, burrata and tasty tomatoes. Homemade pasta including pumpkin ravioli and lasagna bolognese. Spaghetti with lobster and New York’s favourite “fettuccine Alfredo”. The chef also proposes tasty veal dishes as well as fresh fish. Come join us and listen to good music. La Locanda is great Italian dining in Saint-Germain des Près and Paris. 8 rue du Dragon Metro: Saint Germain-des-Prés Tel: +33 (0)1.45.44.12.53 www.lalocanda.fr
bistrot richelieu French cuisine, 1st Enjoy a glass of wine or a nice meal with dishes including French classics such as onion soup, Burgundy snails, semi-cooked duck foie gras, roasted farm-bred chicken, duck magret, T-bone steak, steam-cooked salmon, Provencal scallops or warm apple tart with vanilla ice-cream. Closed Saturday lunch and all day Sunday Service non-stop 9am-11.30pm. 45 rue de Richelieu Metro: Palais Royal Tel: +33(0)1.42.60.19.16 www.bistrotrichelieu.com 82 WH ER E Pa r i s i N O V E M B E r 2014
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DINING
Outside Paris
Ma Cocotte One of the French capital’s most visited areas is the Paris flea market, where vintage is the name of the game. Now, however, there is more than just fabulous finds that await at Saint-Ouen, the northern suburb on the outskirts of the city. Ma Cocotte is the marché’s culinary addition where super-designer Philippe Starck has created a homey space to enjoy traditional and hearty French cuisine. Open daily, Ma Cocotte seats up to 250 diners, and sprawled over two floors the tables are comfortably spaced out. From the open kitchen watch as the dishes are swiftly carried out to the waiting customers, which include French and international celebrities including Vanessa Paradis and Cameron Diaz. Entrées here include a fresh burrata salad served with tomatoes and juicy kalamata olives and the French favourite hardboiled eggs served with creamy mayonnaise. Mains include the French classic beef tartar and the house’s signature roast chicken, available in individual servings or as a whole for 4 for a real family meal. Don’t miss the Tarte Tatin for dessert to perfectly end your day at the market. This is a great address for lunch or dinner, ideally on the weekend when the market is open, which adds an extra fun ambiance to the already fabulous décor that features two installations with moving silhouettes, as if looking into the restaurant. - S.I. 106 rue des Rosiers, 93400 Saint-Ouen, 01 49 51 70 00
Ma Cocotte photo © Ma Cocotte
Where’s Favourite Tables Just Outside of the City Le sebiLLon
Le Pre CateLan
ashiana
orient extreme
Classic French. A favourite spot in the chic suburb of Neuilly right beside the Palais des Congrès serving wonderful oysters, crayfish and lobster. Try the perfectly cooked leg of lamb carved at your table and enjoy the elegant yet familystyle atmosphere. The giant éclair comes in both chocolate and coffee flavours. Daily L & D. €€/€€€ (Cards: all) 20 ave Charles de Gaulle, Neuilly-sur-Seine (92), 01.46.24.71.31. Mº Porte Maillot
Classic French. An elegant, centuryold retreat in the Bois de Boulogne, where Frédéric Anton serves such delicious dishes as small étrille crabs in a coral-and-caviar gelée in this three-star restaurant. Tue-Sat L&D. €€€€ (Cards: all) Route de Suresnes, Bois de Boulogne (16th), 01.44.14.41.14. Car or taxi recommended.
Indian. Savour the gastronomy of India in a traditional atmosphere enhanced by a warm welcome. House specialties include north Indian Tandoori dishes, curries and superb Indian breads. Taste the bara kebab lamb or Tandoori prawns. Daily. L & D. €€ (MC, V). www.restaurant-ashiana.com 205 ave Charles-de-Gaulle, Neuilly-sur-Seine (92), 01.46.24.52.43. Mº Pont de Neuilly
Fine, contemporary Japanese cuisine is served in this elegant, luminous restaurant. Start with a salad of baby spinach and green asparagus followed by grilled black cod marinated in miso or Wagyu beef in ponzu sauce. The cheesecake is a superb choice for dessert. Valet parking. Mon-Sat L, D. €€/€€€ (MC,V). http://orient-extreme.com 36bis rue de Sablonville, Neuilly-sur-Seine, 92200. 01.46.24.94.14. M°Porte Maillot/Les Sablons
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dining
Cooking School
Le Cordon BLeu, a CuLinary CaLLing By Patricia Valicenti
I
t is one of the mythical Parisian institutions. Le Cordon Bleu evokes culinary prowess, gourmet ponderings and Julia Child, perhaps the school’s most widely known alumnus. Here the art of French cooking is played out and embellished on a daily basis. Founded in 1895, the venerable institution will be celebrating its 120th anniversary next year and today the grandmother of cooking schools operates 50 schools in some 20 countries welcoming over 20,000 students each year. The school was founded by Marthe Distel, a French journalist and publisher of a cooking magazine called La Cuisinière Cordon Bleu. While the term cordon bleu has entered into language as a figurative expression denoting something of high quality, especially of cooking, the origins of the term go back long before the school. King Henry III of France established the order of the Holy Spirit in 1578. The knights of the order wore a gold cross hanging from a blue ribbon (a cordon bleu). In existence for 250 years, it was the most prestigious of the French Royal orders and its knights were oft referred to as Cordons Bleus. During their sumptuous meals they set a high standard for fine dining and the expression cordon bleu would become synonymous with culinary excellence.
The Chef’s Secrets workshop is a two-hour evening demonstration revealing secrets and techniques of French cuisine while the Petits Cordon Bleu workshops introduce children between the ages of eight and 12 to French cooking. The two-hour Food and Wine Pairing workshop is given by a Cordon Bleu chef working in tandem with a wine expert with the chef preparing a complete menu while the wine expert shows you how to carefully select the wine to complement the dish. A Paris Market Tour is also on the agenda and is followed by a culinary demonstration in which one of the school’s chefs prepares a complete menu with the products from the market. Le Cordon Bleu has also developed a series of twohour culinary conferences with culinary professionals and experts with topics including Wine and Cheese, Molecular Gastronomy and a conference on salt and one on pepper. For calendar and enrolment on line for workshops and conferences visit www.lcbparis.com. 8 rue Léon Delhomme (15th), 01 53 68 22 50
Photos © Le Cordon Bleu International 2014
While the school is known around the world for its longterm cooking courses leading to a diploma, like its Grand Diplôme, the core of the school’s curriculum combining both the cooking and pastry programmes, Le Cordon Bleu also conducts a host of culinary discovery workshops and culinary conferences.
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DINING
Sweet Treats
Glazed and Confused
A Rosy Birthday
Available at Fauchon boutiques and BuY Paris Duty Free boutiques at all Paris airports.
A Golden Pebble Fashion designer Stéphane Rolland is famous for his exquisite couture collections and dressing such stars as Beyoncé, Lady Gaga and Rihanna. Now he can add pastry designer to his resume with his exclusive creation that he collaborated on with Café de la Paix’s pastry chef Dominique Costa. A chocoholic himself, Rolland wanted to make a dessert for chocolate amateurs and the Pebble Cake deliciously achieves his very sweet goal. Presented in a form of a pebble, as its name suggests, the cake is a rich mixture of chocolate Breton biscuit and milk chocolate mousse that envelops a melting heart of dark chocolate, which is all delicately wrapped in a thin layer of dark chocolate covered in luxurious gold leaves. The golden dessert is exclusive to Café de la Paix and will remain on the menu until early 2015. – S.I. Café de la Paix 5 place de l’Opéra (9th), 01 40 07 36 36
Only in Paris will you find a daring ice-cream shop that inspires to inject traditional flavours with unconventional ones. Starting out as a food truck, Glazed has opened its first store in the popular 9th arrondissement. 100% made in Paris, the artisanal ice-creams and sorbets are made to tinkle your taste buds. Try the Black Sugar Sex Magic, a chocolate sorbet with an infusion of ginger and wasabi, or if you have a preference for citrus flavours try the Orange Mécanique, a Campari orange sorbet with a kick of balsamic vinegar. – S.I. 54 rue des Martyrs (9th)
GLAZED photos © Caspar Miskin
The first champagne house, Maison Ruinart, was founded in 1729, and in 1764 the French Champagne house shipped its first bottles of rosé champagne. Today the Ruinart Rosé celebrates 250 years of the first rose champagne ever made. The result of a delicious blend of chardonnay and pinot noir, which gives the champagne its rosy colour, the French-made champagne is fresh with subtle notes of cherry and red berries, and pairs beautifully with delicious French raspberry macarons. – S.I.
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THE CHOCOLATE-MAKER OF KINGS AND THE KING OF CHOCOLATE-MAKERS Founded in 1800, supplier to the Kings of France, we offer more than 40 varieties of chocolates, from old-fashioned pralines to the creamy rasberry or coffee-flavoured ganache. Aficionados will love our chocolate bars made from different varieties of chocolate beans and orange peel
Opening Hours: Monday to Saturday 9.30am to 7.30pm 30 rue des Saints-P• res 75007 Paris = Tel: 01 45 48 54 67 = M¡ Saint-Germain-des-PrŽ s 33 rue Vivienne 75002 Paris = M¡ Bourse 52 Babbitt Road, Bedford Hills, 10 507 New York = Tel: 212 734 88 80
www.debauve-et-gallais.com = www.debauveandgallais.com
OWNER OF CHÂTEAU PAPE CLÉMENT
40 exceptional vineyards to taste in the heart of Paris, including 4 grands crus classés Bordeaux: SAINT-EMILION • MEDOC • SAUTERNES • PESSAC LÉOGNAN 43 rue Saint-Augustin, Paris 2nd / Tel: +33 (0)1.49.24.03.11 Open Tuesday to Saturday from 11am to 7.30pm www.bernard-magrez.com Alcohol abuse is dangerous for health. Consume with moderation.
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Address Book
dining
For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris Around Louvre & PALAis royAL (1st, 2nd) Au Coin Des Gourmets - CambodianVietnamese-Laotian (€€)
A very popular restaurant run by the charming Ta family, serving excellent Asian food. The Vietnamese ravioli may be the best in town. Reasonable prices, good wines. Mon-Sat L&D. 38 rue du Mont-Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.79.79. Mº Concorde
Aux Lyonnais - Bistro (€€)
A beautiful 1890 bistro now co-owned by superchef Alain Ducasse, offering spiffed-up and modernized Lyon specialties: baked eggs with crawfish, roast chicken with mushrooms, tomatoes and onions in vinegar glaze. Tue-Fri L&D, Sat D. 32 rue St-Marc (2nd),01.42.96.65.04. M° Richelieu-Drouot
Beef Club - Bistro (€€€)
As its name implies this bistro serves fine beef and meat dishes. Sumptuous cuts of beef are served baked or grilled and the burgers are served on a homemade bun. Starters include oysters, beef marrow and asparagus. Daily D only. 58 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1st), 09.54.37.13.65. M° Etienne Marcel
Bistro Volnay - Bistro (€€€)
Good, authentic French food in a relaxed, friendly setting with a first-rate wine list including an excellent value Volnay. The cheese tray is superb and generously served. Mon-Fri L&D. 8 rue Volney (2nd), 01.42.61.06.65. Mº Opéra
Bistrot Richelieu - Classic French (€€)
This bistro with an inviting terrace serves up traditional French fare. Typical classics like onion soup and snails from Burgundy can be savoured for starters. Continuous service 9am-11:30pm. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 45 rue de Richelieu (1st), 01.42.60.19.16. Mº Palais Royal
Djakarta Bali - Indonesian (€)
An excellent restaurant run by a charming, English-speaking brother-and-sister team. Try lumpia (deep-fried spring rolls), or ayam jahe (chicken caramelized in ginger). Tue-Sun L&D. 9 rue Vauvilliers (1st), 01.45.08.83.11. Mº Louvre-Rivoli
Goust - Gourmet (€€€)
Located on the first floor of a Napoleon III mansion, this one-star restaurant near the Place Vendôme offers gastronomic Mediterraneanstyle cuisine accompanied by first-rate service. Tues-Sun. L&D. 10 rue Volney (2nd), 01 40 15 20 30. M° Opéra
Kinugawa - Japanese (€€€)
Footsteps from the Place Vendôme, this mythical Japanese restaurant has been re-designed by the architects Gilles & Boissier. Chef Ozuru, formerly of Nobu Paris, prepares Japanese gastronomy that brings together the traditional and the modern. Mon-Sun L&D. 9 rue Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.65.07. M° Tuileries
Le Baudelaire - Mediterranean (€€€)
At this one-star restaurant, opening onto a quiet patio in the Burgundy Hotel, Chef Pierre Rigothier prepares seasonal products underscored by a menu that changes regularly while pastry chef Stéphane Tranchet prepares delicious desserts. L, Mon-Fri, D, Tues-Sat. 6-8 rue Duphot (1st), 01.42.60.34.12. Mº Madeleine
Le Costes - Classic French (€€€)
Très chic hotel restaurant with Napoleon III decor and plenty of attitude. The food’s okay but the star-studded scene’s the thing. Pretty interior patio. Daily B, L, D. 239 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.42.44.50.25. Mº Tuileries
Willi’s Wine Bar - Bistro
(€€)
This convivial establishment, popular with wine lovers, serves perfectly prepared fresh seasonal fare from a menu that changes daily. You can also dine at the long polished oak bar. Mon-Fri, L&D, Sat, D only. 13 rue des Petits Champs (1st), 01.42.61.05.09. M° Pyramides
Martin’s superb dishes are the foie gras ravioli with truffle jus. Mon-Fri L&D, Fri. L only. 17 rue de Beaujolais (1st), 01.42.96.56.27. Mº Palais Royal
Le Lamfé - Classic French (€)
Serving traditional cuisine in a cosy ambiance with plenty of charm. Once you’ve settled in, the staff will suggest a list of starters like the baked Camembert with thyme or the home-made foie gras from Les Landes. Tues-Sat L&D until 11pm. 7 rue des Prouvaires (1st), 01.45.08.04.10. Mº Châtelet
Le Meurice-Alain Ducasse - Modern Classic (€€€€€)
A stunning 18th-century room offers a gastronomic menu featuring sumptuous 3-star cuisine that changes with the seasons. Daily B, L (except Sat), D. Hôtel Meurice, 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.58.10.44. Mº Tuileries
Le Louchebem - Bistro (€)
Located in the heart of the historic Les Halles district, this establishment is currently in the hands of the fourth generation of the same family. From the cooked ham on the bone to an authentic salad of pot au feu, everything here is homemade. Mon-Sat L&D. 31 rue Berger (1st), 01.42.33.12.99. Mº Châtelet/Les Halles
Le restaurant du Palais Royal - Classic French (€€)
Fine fare is prepared by the talented chef Eric Fontanini in this gastronomic restaurant overlooking the gardens of the Palais Royal. Seasonal cuisine and exceptional products are hallmarks of the menu, which changes regularly. Tues-Sat L&D. 110 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.40.20.00.27. M° Bourse
Le Soufflé - Classic French (€€)
Within the authentic, beautiful walls of Second Empire decor delect truly fine food. Snails, of course remain a specialty with the freshest of fish or hearty meat dishes following. Daily L&D. 38 rue Montorgueil (1st), 01.42.36.83.51. M° Etienne Marcel
This is the place to taste one of France’s finest specialties, the souffle. Attentive service and superb quality await in this restaurant established in 1961. Faithful to traditional cuisine, in addition to over 20 different kinds of souffles, a classic French menu is proposed. Mon-Sat L&D. 36 rue du Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.27.19. Mº Concorde
Le Grand Vefour - Modern Classic (€€€€)
Passage 53 - Bistro (€€€)
L’escargot Montorgueil - Classic French (€€€€)
The opulent two-star restaurant in the Palais Royal arcades that has been serving the Parisian beau monde since the 1700s. Among chef Guy
Japanese chef Shinichi Sato prepares superb French cuisine with a light Japanese touch using the finest of ingredients, like meat from
Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L&D: Breakfast, lunch & dinner only.
Minimes | Brasserie
Hélène Darroze | Southwestern French
88 WH ER E Pa r i s i N O V E M B E r 2014
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Desnoyer. Located in the oldest covered arcade in town, this two-star restaurant offers an authentically Parisian experience. Tues-Sat. L&D. 53 passage des Panoramas (2nd), 01.42.33.04.35. Mº Grands Boulevards
Pacaud is renowned for splendid renditions of deceptively simple dishes such as lobster ravioli with truffles or langoustine feuillantine with sesame and curry. Tue-Sat L&D. 9 Place des Vosges (4th), 01.42.78.51.45. Mº St-Paul
La Tour de Montlhéry -Chez Denise - Bistro (€€)
L’Ami Louis - Bistro (€€€€€)
This traditional bistro serves up excellent, copious fare in the Les Halles neighbourhood where the city’s great food market once was. The chips and terrines are house-made, calf’s liver is done up English style and the beef is from the Limousin region of France. Mon-Fri L&D, open until 5am. 5 rue des Prouvaires (1st), 01.42.36.21.82. M° Les Halles
Le MArAis (3rd, 4th) Bofinger - Brasserie (€€)
A landmark brasserie with a sensational Belle Epoque decor. Keep it simple here: steak tartare, oysters and big seafood platters. Daily L&D until 1 am. 5-7 rue de la Bastille (4th), 01.42.72.87.82. M° Bastille
Chez Julien - Classic French (€€)
Fine seasonal and regional products are served in a charming Belle Epoque atmosphere. Offerings can include Bresse chicken with potatoes from the isle of Noirmoutier. Daily L&D. 1 rue du Pont Louis-Philippe (4th), 01.42.78.31.64. M° Pont Marie
Don Juan II - Gourmet
(€€€€)
The Don Juan II is filled with the charm and elegance of a great yacht, offering a delicious cruise through the heart of Paris. In a calm and luxurious atmosphere enjoy the gastronomic cuisine of Guy Krenzer, who has been awarded the finest craftsman of France title. Daily D. Port Henri IV (4th), 01.44.45.14.71. M° Sully-Morland
A classic bistro known for huge portions of foie gras and exorbitant prices. People tend to love it or hate it, and well-heeled tourists reserve weeks in advance. Wed-Sun L&D. 32 rue du Vertbois (3rd) 01.48.87.77.48. M° Arts et Métiers
Le Sergent Recruteur - Gourmet (€€€)
This one-star restaurant serves market-based cuisine that changes on a daily basis. Meats of an exceptional quality, fresh-caught fish from the Loire River, homemade butter and a blend of coffee made especially for the house are all on the agenda. Tues-Sun L&D. 41 rue St-Louis-en-L’Ile (4th), 01.43.54.75.43. M° Pont Marie
Minimes - Brasserie (€€€)
This brasserie in the Marais neighbourhood serves contemporary French cuisine in a relaxing atmosphere with an upstairs dining room offering a boudoir décor. Enjoy a classic foie gras or a fresh artichoke salad flavoured with truffle oil. Daily B, L&D. 36 rue de Turenne (3rd), 01.42.71.36.70. M° Chemin Vert
Nos Ancêtres les Gaulois - Classic French (€€)
Dine in hearty, bountiful Gaulic splendour fit for a feast. Enjoy the rustic décor and tavern ambiance, a great board and rousing guitar music. Daily, D, from 7pm, L, Sat & Sun only, noon-3pm. 39 rue St Louis en l’Ile (4th), 01.46.33.66.07. Mº Pont Marie
QuArtier LAtin & sAint-GerMAin (5th, 6th) Alcazar - Brasserie (€€€)
Georges - World Cuisine (€€€)
Trendy restaurant on the roof of the Pompidou Center, with surprisingly good world cuisine (crispy duck, swordfish with coriander), a spaceage decor and a spectacular view. Wed-Mon L&D until 2 am. Centre Pompidou, level 6. Place Pompidou (4th), 01.44.78.47.99. Mº Rambuteau
English restaurateur Terence Conran’s big, cool, noisy brasserie-bar, with contemporary French and fusion dishes such as scallops with grapefruit and green papaya. Daily L&D until 1 am. 62 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.53.10.19.99. Mº Odéon
L’Ambroisie - Haute Cuisine
This charming bistro located in one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Paris is known for the quality of its Salers beef and its specialties of the
(€€€€€)
In a beautiful 17th century mansion in the Place des Vosges, media-shy three-star chef Bernard
Au Moulin à Vent - Bistro (€€)
Beaujolais region. Tues–Fri L&D/Sat D only. 20 rue des Fossés-St-Bernard (5th), 01.43.54.99.37. M° Jussieu
Breakfast in America - American (€)
For a traditional American diner serving classic burgers and breakfasts, including pancakes with real maple syrup. Daily 8:30 am-11 pm. 17 rue des Ecoles (5th), 01.43.54.50.28. Mº Cardinal Lemoine
Café de Flore - Bistrot (€€)
The legendary café made famous in the 1950s by Jean-Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir and other Left Bank intellectuals. The atmosphere is still Parisian, the fare limited to (expensive) drinks and light snacks and traditional desserts. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 172 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.26. Mº St-Germain-des-Prés
Café des Deux Magots - Café (€€)
The other legendary Left Bank café, still going strong long after its 1950s heyday. The prices are equally high, but it remains an authentic Parisian favourite. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 6 Place St-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.25. Mº St-Germain-des-Prés
Hélène Darroze - Southwestern French (€€)
Young chef Hélène Darroze serves up southwestern French specialties in this contemporary one-star restaurant. The casual ground floor Salon d’Hélène serves upscale tapas. Tue-Sat L&D. 4 rue d’Assas (6th), 01.42.22.00.11. Mº Sèvres Babylone
L’Agrume - Bistro (€€)
This delightful bistro near the Jardin des Plantes offers inventive dishes bursting with flavours. Chef Franck Marchesi-Grandi changes the menu nearly every day in his open kitchen. The service is friendly and casual. Tues-Sat L&D, Mon, L only. 15 rue des Fossés Saint-Marcel (5th), 01.43.31.86.48. M° Saint-Marcel/Les Gobelins
La Locanda - Italian (€€)
Rediscover favourite Italian classics from throughout the peninsula in this comfortable and chic restaurant in Saint Germain des Prés. Superb antipasti dishes as well as pasta “al dente” (home-made ravioli, lasagna and gnocchi). Fish and seafood direct from the sea and “tartufo” specialties every day. Daily L&D. 8 rue du Dragon (6th), 01.45.44.12.53. M° St Germain des Prés
Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above.
Le 68 par Guy Martin | Contemporary
Le Bar à Huîtres | Seafood w w w.w he re t r ave l e r. com 89
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La Mediterannée - Seafood (€€)
A bright and beautiful, mostly seafood restaurant with marvelous wall paintings and a glass-walled terrace facing the Odéon theater. It once welcomed the likes of Liz Taylor and Orson Welles, as the discreet photos on the stairwell attest. Daily L&D until 11 pm. 2 Place de l’Odéon (6th), 01.43.26.02.30. M° Odéon
Lapérouse - Gourmet (€€€)
This elegant restaurant on the Seine serves finely prepared gastronomic French cuisine. Starters include crayfish ravioli or foie gras with 12 spices. A nice main course is the aged house steak. Private dining rooms may be reserved as well. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat, D only. 51 Quai des Grands Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.68.04. Mº St-Michel
La Tour D’Argent - Classic French (€€€€€)
A Paris institution from another era, now with only one star, but still offering its famous numbered pressed duck and an absolutely magical view of Notre-Dame. Tues-Sat L&D. 15-17 Quai de la Tournelle (5th), 01.43.54.23.31. Mº Maubert-Mutualité
La Truffière - Southwestern French (€€€)
restaurant offers excellent soups, marinated fish, pasta starters and main courses a la plancha. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D. 4 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.44.32.00.32. Mº St Michel
Around the eiffeL tower & Les invALides (7th) 58 Tour Eiffel - Classic French (€€)
Located on the 1st floor of the Eiffel Tower this is a great place for a lunch or dinner while enjoying a breathtaking view. This restaurant proffers a chic picnic for lunch, among the offerings: seared salmon, Caesar salad and gourmet hamburgers (served until 5:30). Daily L&D. Champ de Mars (7th), 08.25.56.66.62. Mº Ecole Militaire
An elegant one-star establishment in the Bristol Hotel proffers superb cooking from threestar chef Eric Frechon in a delightful duplex space. 7/7, L&D. 114 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th) , 01.53.43.44.44. Mº Miromesnil
Jules Verne - Haute Cuisine (€€€€)
This glamorous one-star restaurant, in the heart of the Golden Triangle, sports a modern, streamlined décor. The grilled langoustines in a light citrus sauce are excellent as is the cheesecake. Mon-Fri L&D. 39 ave George V (8th), 01.56.62.30.05. Mº George V
L’Ami Jean - Classic French (€€€)
Taokan - Chinese (€€€)
Contemporary Chinese gastronomy is served in this elegantly decorated restaurant. An excellent dim sum is among the offerings while starters include crispy shrimp rolls or peppery beef with a tasty herb salad. Mon-Sat L&D. 8 rue du Sabot (6th), 01.42.84.18.36. M° St-Sulpice
Ze Kitchen Galerie - Fusion (€€)
Ze silly name aside, chef William Ledeuil’s chic
Around the ChAMPs-eLysées (8th) 114 Faubourg - Brasserie (€€€)
Le Montparnasse 1900 - Classic French (€€)
In a wood-beamed medieval townhouse, two-star chef Manuel Martinez serves delicious dishes revolving around seasonal products. Fine wine list. Tue-Sat, L&D. 8 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.75.96. Mº St-Michel
The spectacular glass-domed rooftop restaurant of Musée du Quai Branly, directly beneath the Eiffel Tower. Contemporary French with an exotic touch: foie gras terrine with mango chutney, roast lamb with gingerbread and zucchini ravioli. Daily L&D. 27 Quai Branly (7th), 01.47.53.68.00. Mº Alma-Marceau
Three-star chef Alain Passard’s menu is now half vegetarian serving ravioli with vegetables, Cévennes onions with Parmesan, and his famous tomato dessert - though carnivores can find dishes like squab with sugared almonds. Mon-Fri L&D. 84 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.47.05.09.06. M° Varenne This gastronomic gem is a very expensive restaurant in the Eiffel Tower taken over by multiple-star chef Alain Ducasse. The Jules Verne has been awarded one Michelin star. Treat yourself to “haute-cuisine” with the most spectacular view of Paris. Daily L&D. Eiffel Tower, 2nd floor (7th), 01.45.55.61.44. Mº Bir-Hakeim
Relais Louis XIII - Classic French (€€€€)
Les Ombres - Contemporary (€€€€)
Arpege - Contemporary (€€€€€)
Cozy one-star restaurant in a 17th century vaulted cellar serving southwestern French cuisine, including foie gras and black and white truffle dishes, and menus that change with the seasons. 2,400 bottle wine list. Tue-Sun L&D. 4 rue de Blainville (5th), 01.46.33.29.82. Mº Place Monge Sumptuous food in a sumptuous decor. A stunning Art Nouveau setting in this registered historical monument surrounds you as you delight in a fine selection of grilled meats and finely prepared dishes. Daily L&D. 59 blvd Montparnasse (6th), 01.45.49.19.00. Mº Montparnasse-Bienvenue
features traditional and healthy French fare as well as light and simple dishes from Spain, Italy and the Asian continent. Daily, B, L, D, service until midnight. 5 ave Rapp (7th), 01.45.51.56.74. Mº Alma-Marceau
Don’t let the banal facade confuse you, this is a great choice for authentic French cooking. Chef Stéphane Jégo serves up generous portions of regional delicacies, with an accent on wild game, as well as delicious seafood platters. Tues-Sat L&D. 27 rue Malar (7th), 01.47.05.86.89. Mº La Tour-Maubourg
L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon - Bistronomy (€€€)
The 2-star lunch-counter restaurant of chef Joel Robuchon serves contemporary French dishes such as a foie gras burger. Daily L&D until 11 pm. 5 rue Montalembert (7th), 01.42.22.56.56. M° Rue du Bac
Le Bistrot Du 7e - Bistro (€)
A pleasant bistrot with a terrace serving traditional French cuisine at reasonable prices. Specialties include lobster terrine and duck breast, dinner is by candlelight. Daily L&D. 56 blvd de La Tour-Maubourg (7th), 01.45.51.93.08. Mº La Tour Maubourg
Le Café de l’Alma - Contemporary (€€)
Ensconced on the very Parisian Avenue Rapp this is a chic and convivial spot for a meal or a drink on the serene outdoor terrace. The menu
39V - Contemporary (€€€)
Apicius - Contemporary (€€€€)
The one-star restaurant of chef Jean-Pierre Vigato, offering a mix of (very expensive) modern and country cooking: lobster ravioli, potato charlotte with caviar. Mon-Fri L&D. 20 rue d’Artois (8th), 01.43.80.19.66. Mº St-Philippe-du-Roule
Bateaux-Mouches - Classic French
(€€€)
Savour homemade duck foie gras with cocoa and ginger to start then try the turbot with vegetable tagliatelle from the Excellence dinner menu. Daily departures for dinner at 8:30pm, Sat, Sun and public holidays for lunch at 1pm. Passengers must arrive prior to departure times. Port de la Conférence, Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. Mº Alma-Marceau
Café Lenôtre - Modern Classic (€€€)
A modern restaurant sharing a historic Parisian pavilion with the Lenotre cooking school and a gourmet food shop. Daily B, L, drinks & D, 9am-11pm (Sun closes 6pm). Pavillon de l’Elysée, 10 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.42.65.85.10. M° Champs-Elysées–Clemenceau
Caviar House & Prunier - Caviar (€€€€)
Next door to the competition, the caviar shop and restaurant annex of Prunier (16th), specializing
Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L&D: Breakfast, lunch & dinner only.
Café de la Paix | Classic French
L’Ambroisie | Haute Cuisine
90 WH ER E Pa r i s i N O V E M B E r 2014
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in French caviar. Mon-Sat L&D. 15 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.47.42.98.98. M° Madeleine
Sat-Sun D. Hôtel Lancaster, 7 rue de Berri (8th), 01.40.76.40.18. Mº George V
Chez André - Bistro (€€)
Le 68 par Guy Martin - Contemporary (€€)
Superb, authentic bistro cuisine just steps away from the Champs-Elysées. Enjoy solid traditional French food highlighting regional meats of France and the freshest of fish in a cosy setting. Daily, continuous service L&D. 12 rue Marbeuf (8th), 01.47.20.59.57. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt
Epicure - Gourmet (€€€€€)
The beautiful dining room looks out over the hotel’s French garden and is a perfect setting for three-star chef Eric Frechon’s remarkable cuisine and superb desserts by pastry chef Laurent Jeannin. Daily L&D. Hôtel Le Bristol, 112 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. Mº Miromesnil
Fauchon le Café - Gourmet (€€)
This temple to gastronomy is open all day and is a cosy yet sleek restaurant featuring fine and varied fare from foie gras to vanilla millefeuilles. Offering a great view of Place de la Madeleine. Mon-Sat 9am-midnight, B, L&D. Closed Sun. 30 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.70.39.38.39. Mº Madeleine
L’Astor - Gourmet (€€€)
Chef Nicolas Clavier’s original and creative dishes include a foie gras and smoked eel delight or seabass in ceviche for starters followed by a snacked cod fish fillet or a Black Angus rib-steak Rossini as a main. Mon-Fri L&D. 11 rue d’Astorg (8th), 01.53.05.05.20. Mº St-Augustin
La Scene - Gourmet (€€€€)
This gastronomic restaurant in the Prince de Galles hotel offers an authentic and generous cuisine using remarkable products. For a fish course, succulent French lobster is a fine choice while meat dishes include fine milk-fed veal and wild hare from the Beauce region. Mon-Sat B, L&D, Sun Brunch. 33 ave George V (8th), 01.53.23.78.52. Mº George V
Laurent - Gourmet
(€€€€)
Tucked away downstairs in the historic Guerlain boutique is a restaurant bursting with flavourful dishes. The menu and restaurant have been conceived by starred chef Guy Martin and the dishes draw their inspiration from Guerlain’s famous fragrances. 7/7, continuous, B, L, D. 68 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th) 01.45.62.54.10. M° George V
Le Cinq - Gourmet (€€€€€)
Chef Eric Briffard offers wonderful dishes like purple sea urchin in creamy fennel broth and milk-fed lamb with Espelette pepper. Superbly aged cheeses and delectable desserts, like the Peruvian chocolate stuffed tart, follow in this 2-star establishment. Daily L&D. Four Seasons Hôtel George V, 31 ave George V (8th), 01.49.52.70.00. Mº George V
Ledoyen - Gourmet (€€€€€)
An elegant 18th-century pavilion with a Napoleon III decor in the gardens of the Champs-Elysées, where chef Yannick Alléno serves his unique gastronomic cuisine. TueFri L&D, Mon D. Carré des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.05.10.00. M° Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau
Le Pichet de Paris - Classic French (€€€)
This quintessential Parisian eating establishment serves classic French fare in a warm setting. Specialities include superb seafood, perfectly prepared fish dishes like fresh cod with olive oil and basil and rack of lamb. Mon-Fri, L&D, Sat, D only. 68 rue Pierre Charron (8th), 01.43.59.50.34. Mº George V
Le Safran - Gourmet (€€€)
Fine French gastronomy and international cuisine is served in the Art Deco ambiance of this restaurant located inside the Hôtel du Collectionneur. The menu revolves around the seasons. Daily L&D. 51-57 rue de Courcelles (8th), 01.58.36.67.97. M° Courcelles
Maison Blanche - Contemporary (€€€€)
This gourmet 1-star Michelin restaurant serving sophisticated cuisine in a beautiful setting with a garden is a Parisian institution. The finest produce and products are used to prepare seasonal French cuisine with a contemporary touch. Mon-Fri L & D, Sat D only. 41 ave Gabriel (8th), 01.42.25.00.39. M° Champs-Elysées Clemenceau
Chef Hervé Nepple serves cuisine for the senses, inventive, savoury and refined fare. Located on the 7th floor of the Théâtre des Champs Elysées, the restaurant with its garden terrace overlooks the Eiffel Tower. Mon-Fri L&D/Sat-Sun D. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.23.55.99. Mº Alma Marceau
La Table du Lancaster - Fusion (€€€€)
Ratn - Indian (€€€)
This delightful one-star establishment serves creative, light and elegant meals crafted by chef Julien Roucheteau whose seasonal menus revolve around a specific product. Mon-Fri L&D,
Since 1976, the Bhalla family, originally from New Delhi, excels in the Indian Moghol gastronomy and invites you to discover the fine Moghol specialties in tandoori and curries. A place where
you can experience India for it’s traditions and culinary art. Recommended by Gault Millau and Pudlo. Open daily L&D. 9 rue de la Trémoille (8th), 01.40.70.01.09. Mº George V
Santoor - Indian (€)
Just off the Champs-Elysées, a restaurant specializing in traditional Indian food including tandoori and curries. Mon-Sat L&D, Sun D only. 30 rue Marbeuf (8th), 01.42.56.33.18. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt
Savy - Brasserie (€€)
A popular table for journalists, fashion designers and show business people, this establishment offers authentic and traditional French cuisine in a 1930’s art deco decor. The house specialty is Aubrac beef and the house has a fine selection of vintage millesimes wines. Mon-Fri, B, L&D. 23 rue Bayard (8th), 01.47.23.46.98. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt
Zen Garden - Chinese (€€)
The interior is designed to resemble a Chinese pagoda with an eight-metre high tower and 30 Buddhas, a plethora of hanging plants, numerous water fountains, wind chimes and porcelain vases. Daily L&D. 15 rue de Marbeuf (8th), 01.53.23.82.82. M° George V
Around oPérA GArnier & PiGALLe (9th, 10th,18th) Bouillon Chartier - Classic French (€)
The mythical Parisian eatery where you share a table with students, artists or elegant businessmen. There is a daily set menu but each day enjoy classics like hard-boiled eggs with mayonnaise or grated carrots to start followed by a hearty choucroute or chopped steak with chips. Daily continuous service L&D. 7 rue Fbg Montmartre (9th), 01.47.70.86.29. Mº Grands Boulevards
Café de la Paix - Classic French (€€€)
This classic Parisian institution with its decor of painted ceiling, pillars and murals is an elegant place to watch the world go by over coffee, light meals or drinks from its terraces. Fine fare is featured in the restaurant. Daily B, L&D. 5 Place de l’Opéra (9th), 01.40.07.36.36. Mº Opéra
Le Café Pouchekine - Café (€)
This delightful tea salon, the Paris branch of the famous Moscow establishment, located in the Printemps department store serves and sells traditional Russian pastries and sweets in a beautiful décor. Mon-Sat continuous. 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.43.31. M° Havre-Caumartin
Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above.
L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon | Bistronomy
Les Ombres | Contemporary w w w.w he re t r ave l e r. com 91
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dining
Address Book
Le Lumière - Gourmet (€€€)
Enjoy lunch, dinner or tea beneath a magnificent glass roof in this lovely place. There are champagne and cheese trolleys and the dessert trolley filled with traditional French pastries like éclairs and millefeuilles is a fine ending to a meal and a good reason to stop in for high tea. Daily L&D. Hôtel Scribe,1 rue Scribe (9th), 01.44.71.74.20. Mº Opéra
L’Opera Restaurant - Contemporary (€€€)
Located at the opera house, this restaurant with a contemporary decor of white and red, offers up a great view of the famous opera neighbourhood and one of the city’s largest terraces. Daily B, L & D 7am-midnight. Palais Garnier, Place Jacques Rouché (9th), 01.42.68.86.80. Mº Opéra
Wepler - Brasserie (€)
Superb seafood platters, French onion soup, homemade ice-cream and pastries are just some of the classic delights at this Parisian landmark nestled near Montmartre and Pigalle. Daily 8am12:30am.14 Place de Clichy (18th), 01.45.22.53.24. Mº Place de Clichy
Around BAstiLLe (11th, 12th) Blue Elephant - Thai
(€€€)
Authentic Thai cuisine in a setting of lush plants, orchids and a waterfall. Weekly arrivals of herbs, spices, fruits and other goods direct from Bangkok. The team of Thai chefs prepares jumbo shrimp soup with lemon grass and lamb Massamam among other specialties. 7/7 L& D, Sun brunch & D. 43-45 rue de la Roquette (11th), 01.47.00.42.00. Mº Bastille
Septime - Classic French (€€€)
Traditional French fare featuring inventive market-based cuisine from the talented Bertrand Grébaut is on the agenda here. Enjoy selective produce and products like the Banka trout from the Basque country with lentils and coriander in a relaxed atmosphere. Tues-Fri L, D, Mon D only. 80 rue de Charonne (11th), 01.43.67.38.29. Mº Charonne
Le Train Bleu - Classic French (€€€)
A magnificent, mirrored Belle Epoque restaurant in the Gare de Lyon train station serving classic French fare including lobster salad with artichokes, sole meunière and steak tartare. Daily B, L&D. Gare de Lyon, Place Louis Armand (12th), 01.43.43.09.06. Mº Gare de Lyon
Les Grandes Marches - Brasserie (€€)
A new ownership and a new décor have come to this pillar of the Place de la Bastille. The establishment serves up traditional French fare and superb seafood platters. Daily B, L&D. 6 Place de la Bastille (12th), 01.43.42.90.32. Mº Bastille
Le Café de l’Alma | Contemporary
Around MontPArnAsse (13th, 14th, 15th) Le Bar à Huîtres - Seafood (€€€)
This is the place to go for fabulous seafood platters, finely prepared fresh fish dishes and one of the best and most eclectic selections of oysters in the French capital. Main course dishes include French sea bass, lobster from Brittany and filet of beef. Daily, noon-midnight. 112 blvd Montparnasse (14th), 01.43.20.71.01. Mº Vanvin
Le Ciel de Paris - Gourmet (€€€)
Discover Paris from the 56th floor of the Montparnasse tower. With a breathtaking view, enjoy one of their foie gras offerings or try the delicious seafood. Daily L&D. 33 ave du Maine (15th), 01.40.64.77.64. Mº Montparnasse
Le Gastroquet - Classic French (€€€)
This cosy comfortable restaurant serves up delicious traditional French cuisine. You can sample some briny oysters for starters or a salad of coquilles Saint-Jacques. Mon-Sat L&D. 10 rue Desnouettes (15th), 01.48.28.60.91. Mº Convention/ Porte de Versailles
Le Quinzieme - Fusion (€€€)
One-star star chef Cyril Lignac’s restaurant serves a market-based cuisine of deliciously prepared classics. All inclusive discovery, tasting and champagne menus are also on the agenda. Tues-Fri L&D, Sat D. 14 rue Cauchy (15th), 01.45.54.43.43. Mº Javel
troCAdéro & Porte MAiLLot (16th, 17th) Bon - Fusion (€€€)
Asian inspiration and international influences abound in this restaurant styled like a private home and decorated by Philippe Starck. Enjoy spicy vegetables, a wide selection of rolls, or a Dim Sum for starters then move onto black cod or sole tempura. Daily L&D. 25 rue de la Pompe (16th), 01.40.72.70.00. Mº La Muette
Cristal Room Baccarat - Modern Classic (€€€)
A restaurant in the palatial headquarters of the crystal manufacturer, serving rich modern cuisine: lobster thermidor, dessert ravioli with cocoa, parmesan and raisins. Mon-Sat L&D. 11 Place des Etats-Unis (16th), 01.40.22.11.10. Mº Boissière
Jamin - Classic French (€€)
The legendary Parisian restaurant is enjoying a renaissance, serving fine food in warm surroundings complemented by welcoming service all of which has earned it two Michelin forks. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat, D only. 32 rue de Longchamp (16th), 01.45.53.00.07. Mº Trocadéro
L’Auberge Dab - Classic French (€€€)
Ample leather wall seats, bay windows, salmon
drapes make for a most comfortable dining experience. Start off with some snails from Burgundy or a crab and endive salad seasoned with curry followed by the duck breast in honey and spices. Daily L&D. 161 ave de Malakoff (16th), 01.45.00.32.22. Mº Porte Maillot
L’Oiseau Blanc - Classic French (€€€)
This restaurant, bar and terrace on the top floor of the Peninsula hotel features traditional French dishes with a contemporary twist using regional products. Daily L&D. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.30. M° Charles de Gaulle-Etoile
Monsieur Bleu - Contemporary (€€)
This restaurant serves excellent French contemporary fare as well as international dishes. Tucked inside the Palais de Tokyo its terrace has splendid views of the Eiffel Tower. Daily, continuous from 12pm to 2am. 20 ave du President Wilson (16th), 01.47.20.90.47. M° Iéna
Shang Palace - Chinese (€€€)
This one-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel serves authentic Chinese cuisine inspired by the culinary traditions of southeast China. The art of Cantonese fine dining comes to life in the main room and three private dining rooms. Thurs-San, L&D. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.92. Mº Iéna
CookinG And tAstinG CLAss L’Atelier Guy Martin
French chef Guy Martin offers a host of cooking classes and workshops in state of the art kitchens. Cook a quick lunch, learn how to prepare seasonal products, after work cocktails with tapas and more. 35 rue de Miromesnil (8th), 01.42.66.33.33. M° Miromesnil
Le Cordon Bleu
Learn about food, wine and cooking at this culinary institution for professionals. The school is one of the leading providers of hands-on culinary training and has Paris as a backdrop. 8 rue Léon Delhomme (15th), 01.53.68.22.50. M° Vaugirard
Lenôtre Cooking Classes
Every Wednesday classes in cooking begin in Lenôtre’s cuisine workshops for children. Ages 8 to 11 will make a recipe or a pastry while for ages 12 to 17, be prepared to whip up an entire menu. Pavillon Elysée Lenôtre, 10 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.42.65.97.60. M° Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau
Ô Chateau
Everyday Ô Chateau welcomes visitors for unique wine tasting courses in a vaulted cellar of thick stonewalls in a mansion that once belonged to the Marquise de Pompadour. A Tour de France of wine and a grands crus tasting are among the offerings and high-end private group tastings for a maximum of four people can be arranged. Ô Chateau is also a wine bar and restaurant. 68 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1st), 01 44 73 97 80. M° Louvre-Rivoli
Jules Verne | Haute Cuisine
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DININg
Restaurant Advertorial
SANTOOR
KINUGAWA
Indian cuisine
Japanese cuisine
430 rue Marbeuf, Paris 8th 4Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt 4Tel: 01 42 56 33 18 4Mon-Sat L&D, Sun D only 4www.restaurant-indien-santoor.fr
49 rue du Mont Thabor , Paris 1st 4Metro: Tuileries 4Tel: 01 42 60 65 07 4www.kinugawa.fr 4www.blackcode.fr
Specializing in tandoori (Indian barbecue) and curries, both spicy and mild, served in beautiful surroundings with silk paintings and antique-style carved wooden crafts.
Footsteps from the Place Vendôme, this mythical Japanese restaurant has been redesigned by the architects Gilles & Boissier.
Two minutes walk from the Champs-Elysées.
Chef Ozuru, formerly of Nobu Paris, prepares Japanese gastronomy that brings together the traditional and the modern.
LE LOUCHÉBEM
LE LAMFÉ
Traditional french cuisine
Traditional french cuisine
431 rue Berger, Paris 1st (Metro: Châtelet / Les Halles) 4Tel: 01 42 33 12 99 4Louchébem means butcher 4A meat eater’s paradise, a historic grill room 4Closed Sundays 4www.le-louchebem.fr
47 rue des Prouvaires, Paris 1st (Metro: Châtelet / Les Halles); Tel: 01 45 08 04 10 4Lamfé means the butcher’s wife 4Special Salers beef menu at 19.90e 4Unlimited carpaccio: 21.90e 4Closed Sundays and Mondays 4www.lamfe.fr
This quintessential les Halles butcher’s restaurant proffers a full gamut of meat dishes. The pot roast salad is superb and the unique all you can eat platter of beef, roast ham and leg of lamb at 23,90€ is not to be missed.
Succulent meats from the butcher are to be savoured here. Inventive, refined appetizers including crispy thyme-flavoured camembert are worth the detour. The calf’s liver is a sheer delight and the ambiance warm and full of charm.
NOS ANCÊTRES LES GAULOIS
LE BISTROT DU 7ÈME
Medieval ambiance
Bistro
439 rue Saint-Louis en l’Ile, Paris 4th Ile Saint-Louis 4Metro: Pont Marie; Tel: 01 46 33 66 07 4All-inclusive menu priced at 40e 4Daily, D, from 7pm, L, Sat & Sun only, noon-3pm 4www.nosancetreslesgaulois.com
456 blvd de la Tour-Maubourg, Paris 7th 4Metro: La Tour Maubourg 4Tel: 01 45 51 93 08 4Seasonal products 4Daily (Lunch and Dinner) 4Lunch menu from 16e / Dinner menu 25e 4Terrace
Dine in hearty, bountiful Gaulic splendour fit for a feast. Enjoy the rustic décor and tavern ambiance, a great board and rousing guitar music. The all-inclusive menu, priced at 40€, features meats grilled over the fire and all the Bordeaux wine you need served from the pitcher.
A fine selection of appetisers, main courses and desserts are found here including lobster terrine, Burgundy snails for starters and fresh gilt-head bream or duck breast in pepper sauce for mains. Dinner is by candlelight. Reservations highly recommended.
WEPLER
DJAKARTA BALI
Traditional french cuisine
Indonesian cuisine
414 Place de Clichy, Paris 18th (Metro: Place de Clichy) 4Tel: 01 45 22 53 24 4Daily until 12:30 am 4Lunch & Dinner menu 30e 4Set-menu 24.50e 4English spoken 4www.wepler.com
49 rue Vauvilliers, Paris 1st 4Metro: Louvre / Les Halles 4Tel: 01 45 08 83 11 4Open every day until 1am except Mondays 4Balinese dancing on Friday nights 4Special discovery menu, the Rijsttafel: 25-55e 4www.djakarta-bali.com
One of the finest French onion soups in the capital, savour crayfish in cherry sauce, lobsters from Brittany, a marmite from Marseille served as a bouillabaisse and the Wepler classics from potted duck to savoury sauerkrauts.
Imagine a little gem of a place, serene and refined, decorated with batiks and Javanese puppets, just around the corner from the Louvre. Enjoy delicate foods from Java, Sumatra and Bali. w w w.w he re t r ave l e r. com 93
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The Guide
By Sandra Iskander
ENTERTAINMENT
Turn to page 100 to meet Lang Lang
Lang Lang Photo © DR; plaza bar photo © Eric Laignel
Bars | Musicals | Festivals | Circus | Clubs | Classical Music | Ballet | Cabarets
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Bars
An American in Paris Club Rayé is the city’s new piano bar where you can enjoy jazz music and a great selection of wines and cocktails. Found in the fashionable 2nd arrondissement of the city, the club is housed in what was once a convent and then later a brothel. Inspired by New York bars, Club Rayé, which translates to Striped Club, features a décor of cool black and white stripes and serves classic cocktails such as a Manhattan and a Bloody Mary and a snacking menu with American and French classics including Pigs in Blankets and a charcuterie platter. Open from Tuesday to Saturday from 6pm to 1am, Club Rayé also hides the Kafka Bar. The private bar is a bar within a bar and is discreetly found within the 13th century walls of the building’s cellar, the only thing remaining from the convent. Made up of five separate spaces, which include two private rooms, the Kafka Bar is a sexy clandestine address for tourists in Paris. 26 rue Dussoubs (2nd), 01 40 13 72 93
A Cocktail Genie
The Plaza Bar is Back
Cocktail hour starts from 4pm at Le Qu4tre, the BuddhaBar Hotel bar. The cocktail menu here is known for its originality and until December the menu features a new and hypnotising cocktail called The Magic Genius. Inspired by Aladdin’s Genie, the cocktail is a mix of Calvados, Vermouth and Rittenhouse whisky and is theatrically served from a smoking genie bottle. Buddha Bar Hotel, 4 rue d’Anjou (8th), 01 83 96 88 70
The iconic Plaza Athénée Bar is a cocktail dream. Almost like walking into an art sculpture, the space was designed by the Jouin-Manku Agency and features a transparent bar with cloudlike forms floating within and an indigo blue ceiling of fabric resembling a satin sheet floating sexily above. While you enjoy your cocktail from a luxurious crystal glass that comes in three different sizes, small, medium and large you can also take in the hottest crowd in the city, which include A-list jetsetters from around the fashionable globe. 25 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 53 67 66 00 w w w.wheretr aveler.c o m 95
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entertainment Events
She’s a Maniac, Maniac! Everyone’s favourite movie, Flashdance is coming to Paris at the Théâtre du Gymnase. Watch the stage adaptation of the story of Alex, the steel worker by day and dancer by night, who dreams of joining a real dance company. The fabulous show brings everything we love about the movie, the dancing, the romance and of course the music with the electrifying songs What a Feeling and Maniac taking centre stage. Reserve your seats at Fnac.
Black XS Festival Inspired by Paco Rabanne’s perfume, Black XS, the new rock music festival with the same name, is taking off on the 22nd of November. For two days, this new music festival, held at Le Trianon, will see French and international groups perform live on stage. The first edition of this festival sees a set list that includes performances by Lilly Wood & The Prick and Talisco as well as American electronic pop band Au Revoir Simone. This festival is the brainchild of Black XS Records, the new record label launched this year. In pursuit of new talents the label recorded the first album for five artists, including Guy Ivory, who will also be part of the line up during the weekend event. Tickets at Fnac.
Théâtre du Gymnase 38 blvd de Bonne Nouvelle (10th), 01 42 46 79 79 www.theatredugymnase.com
Le Trianon 80 blvd de Rochechouart (18th)
Under the world’s largest circus tent, Le Phénix circus is welcoming Cirkafrica 2. Performing from the 15th of the month, this circus hailing from Africa is a wonderfully colourful show of talent, with 48 artists, 16 acrobatic performances, musicians, dancers, singers and a staggering 285 costumes putting together a show that will leave the audience in awe. Watch as 8 artists dramatically juggle as a group and see the daring acrobats balance and walk a tightrope suspended in the air. The show also features musical numbers sung by the Phénix Gospel Choir as well as Zaouli, a highly energetic dance that honours the beauty of women. To reserve call 01 40 55 50 55. Le Phénix Pelouse de Reuilly (12th)
Black XS FeSTival arTwork 2013-2014 © Mark Maggiori
Under the Big Top
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ADVERTORIAL
How to become Parisian in one hour? As tourists or expats in Paris there are some quirks we have all noticed among the Parisians, the way they march to their destinations, their constant pouting and the way they order at restaurants. Olivier Giraud, the very talented and handsome comedian, has too, noticed that the Parisians are unique in their behaviour, and has decided to bring all those idiosyncrasies to light. Born in Bordeaux, Olivier moved to Paris to study hotel management and after graduating he moved to the Unites States where he managed a restaurant of a
5-star hotel. After four years, and many soul-searching nights, he decided to return to France and follow his real dream of becoming a comedian. Having experienced the cultural differences between the Parisians and Americans while in Florida, and having observed for himself the tourists of all nationalities in Paris, he decided to not shy away from the hardhitting questions of how one becomes a real Parisian. How do you grab a waiter’s attention in a café? In the metro, what do you do if you see an older lady or a
pregnant woman? And how do you behave in a cab? Putting together a one man show, How to be Parisian in one hour?, the stand-up comic will leave you rolling in your seat from laughter and 100% prepared for any situation in the City of Light. Entirely performed in English, it is a great show for everyone, including Parisians who will no doubt get a good laugh at themselves.
Non-stop laughter from a real Parisian guaranteed to leave you wanting more.
EVERY Friday & Saturday @ 7pm - Sunday @ 6pm - Monday @ 8pm
100% IN ENGLISH Théâtre des Nouveautés 24 Blvd Poissonnière (9th) Metro: Grands Boulevards From 24€
It is not an easy feat to master the Parisian attitude but Olivier RESERVATION has put together a fail-proof RECOMMENDED guideline of French etiquette +33 (0)6 98 57 45 98 that will leave you embracing or the oh la la factor. www.oliviergiraud.com
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ENTERTAINMENT Clubs
Very Privé It has always been one of the most exclusive clubs in the city and now Raspoutine is even more so with its recent makeover with over the top Russian-inspired décor complete with red velvet, dimmed chandeliers and oozing plenty of baroque sexiness. Ghislain Evraert and Logan Maggio who with great savvy have brought on Ali Mahdavi as the club’s Artistic Director to put together the unforgettable soirées recently bought out the mythical Parisian venue. Previously a restaurant/cabaret, listed on the inventory of historic monuments, Raspoutine is now a private club where the city’s star-studded parties are held, most recently during Paris Fashion Week, and where celebs including Karl Lagerfeld, Leonardo DiCaprio and Kanye West can be spotted when in the French capital. 58 rue Bassano (8th), 01 47 20 02 90
Paris’s emblematic club, L’Arc, is back after closing its doors for 18 months in order to rebuild and renovate the legendary nightspot after a fire. Reopening its party doors in October, L’Arc has definitely taken back its title as the best club in town and it certainly did not hurt that the club was designed by superstar rocker Lenny Kravitz, and his studio Kravitz Design, who gave the space an extra touch of fabulousness. Featuring a new cocktail bar, a fumoir and VIP loges, Kravitz gave the club a sexy look, covering the walls at the entrance in black fabric and decking the dancefloor in black and white marble. L’Arc is open Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays from 11pm to 5am. 12 rue de Presbourg (16th), 01 45 00 78 71
LENNY KRAVITZ PHOTO © MATHIEU BITTON
Lenny’s Arc
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© Bal du Moulin Rouge 2014 - Moulin Rouge® - 1-1028499
LA REVUE DU PLUS CÉLÈBRE CABARET DU MONDE ! DINER ET REVUE À 19H À PARTIR DE 185 € REVUE À 21H ET À 23H À PARTIR DE 87 €
MONTMARTRE
82, BLD DE CLICHY - 75018 PARIS TEL : 33(0)1 53 09 82 82
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THE SHOW OF THE MOST FAMOUS CABARET IN THE WORLD !
DINNER & SHOW AT 7PM FROM €185 SHOW AT 9PM & 11PM FROM €87
WWW.MOULIN-ROUGE.COM FACEBOOK.COM/LEMOULINROUGEOFFICIEL
09/10/2014 09:46
entertainment
Classical Music & Ballet
A Powerful Pianist The charismatic and exceptional Chinese pianist Lang Lang who spends some 300 days a year on the road will be stopping off in Paris this month to perform at the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées. The exuberant performer is slated to play Bach’s Italian Concerto BWV 971, Tchaikovsky’s The Seasons and four scherzos by Chopin. Lang Lang, who studied piano in both China and the United States, endeavours to build bridges between East and West often programming Chinese music during his concerts for Western audiences and vice versa. This concert is organised within the framework of the 50th anniversary of diplomatic relations between France and China and is a production of the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées with the support of the KT Wong Foundation. – P.V.
Théâtre des Champs-Elysées 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 49 52 50 50
The Spring of Life The stage of the Palais Garnier seems to overflow with life in the joyful ballet Rain choreographed by Anne Teresa de Keersmaeker, one of the most prominent choreographers working in contemporary dance today. The music and dance sweep the performers along in a perpetual surge of movement in this refined and intense piece. The work is set to Steve Reich’s rhythmic Music for Eighteen Musicians performed by the Ensemble Ictus, with the flowing costumes designed by Belgian designer Dries Van Noten. – P.V. Performances from the 2nd to the 4th of November and from the 6th to the 7th at 7:30pm. Tickets available at Fnac. Palais Garnier, Place de l’Opéra (9th), 08 92 89 90 90
LAng LAng PhoTo © PeTer hönnemAnn; bALLeT PhoTo © AgAThe PouPeney / oPérA nATionAL de PAriS
Performance on November 17th at 8pm. Tickets available at Fnac.
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THE NEW SHOW OF
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Cabarets
Crazy Horse
CRAZY HORSE
MUGLER FOLLIES
A legendary cabaret synonymous with beauty, elegance, sensuality and sophistication. A show performed by 19 exceptionally beautiful dancers, bathed in richly coloured and textured lighting designs. The current show, Désirs is inspired by the endless theme of femininity. Sun-Fri at 8:15 & 10:45 pm, Sat at 7:00, 9:30 & 11:45 pm.
This sexy review with original songs was put together by Manfred T. Mugler, the designer behind fashion label Thierry Mugler. Dancers, acrobats and singers are joined onstage with comedians, performers and models in a vibrant show that reinvents the traditional cabaret. Show starts at 8:45pm (doors open at 8:20).
www.lecrazyhorseparis.com. 12 ave George V (8th), 01.47.23.32.32. M° Alma-Marceau
www.muglerfollies.com. Le Comédia, 4 blvd de Strasbourg (10th), 01.42.38.22.22. M° Strasbourg-St-Denis
LIDO
Crazy Horse PHoto © antoine PouPel
The current show, Bonheur, is a song-anddance spectacular with 70 artists, 23 sets and 600 dazzling costumes. Daily. www.lido.fr. 116 bis ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.40.76.56.10. M° George V
MOULIN ROUGE This famous cabaret is home to the original cancan. The current show, Féerie, sparkles with talented performers, including the 60 Doriss girls and spectacular staging. Daily. www.moulinrouge.fr. 82 blvd de Clichy (18th), 01.53.09.82.82. M° Blanche
PARADIS LATIN Le Théâtre Latin was built in 1803 and quickly became one of the chicest addresses in the Latin quarter. The theatre was re-built by Gustav Eiffel in 1889 and renamed the Paradis Latin. The current show, Paradis à la Folie!, is a magical feast for the eyes and ears. Daily 8pm. www.paradislatin.com. 28 rue du Cardinal Lemoine (5th), 01.43.25.28.28. M° Cardinal Lemoine/Jussieu
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Address Book
entertainment For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris bars & wine bars The Ballroom
This sophisticated cocktail bar, frequented by the beautiful people of the city, serves up carefully mixed drinks in cosy seated areas. 58 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1st), 09.54.37.13.65. M° Les Halles
Le Bar
The Left Bank hotel where Oscar Wilde died is a trendy spot for a cocktail redecorated with a voluptuous décor. 13 rue des Beaux-Arts (6th), 01.44.41.99.00. M° St-Germain-des-Prés
Le Bar du Plaza Athénée
Absolute chic, with a decor that includes an impressive sculpted glass bar. 6pm-1:30am. 25 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.67.66.00. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt
Bar le Baudelaire
This congenial bar in the Burgundy hotel is akin to an English club. Discover a host of creative cocktails. 6-8 Rue Duphot (1st), 01.42.60.34.12. M° Madeleine
Bar Lenox
Elegance, comfort and harmony are the hallmarks of this cosy bar in the Hotel Lenox right in the Saint Germain des Prés district. 9 rue de l’Université (7th), 01.42.96.10.95. M° St-Germain-des-Prés
Harry’s New York Bar
This landmark establishment is a fine place to enjoy drinks at the roomy and frendly bar. The traditional cocktail spot also serves up live piano music starting at 10pm. 5 rue Daunou (2nd), 01.42.61.71.14. M° Opéra
Hotel Costes Bar
This chic bar and lounge is an ideal and pricey Parisian spot for people watching in a sumptuous décor. 239 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.42.44.50.00. M° Tuileries
The Ice Kube
Chill out and sip 4 Grey Goose cocktails at the city’s first ice bar. 1-5 passage Ruelle (18th), 01.42.05.20.00. M° La Chapelle
Juveniles
This cosy and welcoming wine bar serves up fine French wines as well as wines from around the world and you can purchase bottles to take away. 47 rue de Richelieu (1st), 01.42.97.46.49. M° Pyramides
Le Lucien Bar
Every detail here is perfect from the temperature of the vintage white port to the dimensions of the glasses for gin and tonic. Hotel Fouquet’s Barrière. 46 ave George V (8th), 01.40.69.60.00. M° George V
Moonshiner
Le Bar Long
This posh bar located in the Royal Monceau is a perfect spot for a sophisticated cocktail or nightcap in a cosy setting. 37 ave Hoche (8th), 01.42.99.88.00. M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile
This speakeasy bar near the Place de la Bastille has an ambiance straight out of the 1920s complete with jazz music playing in the background. 5 rue Sedaine (11th), 09.50.73.12.99. M° Bréguet-Sabin
Le Bristol Bar
Ô Chateau
This discreet and elegant spot is ideal for enjoying cosy drinks including a variety of original cocktails and a fine selection of champagnes. 112 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. M° Miromesnil
La Closerie des Lilas
The bar of this mythical place remains magical. Thankfully some things don’t change. 171 blvd du Montparnasse (6th), 01.40.51.34.50. M° Vavin or RER Port-Royal
Le Dokhan’s Champagne Bar
A stunning hotel bar replete with Louis Vuitton elevator featuring a fine selection of rare and classic champagnes. In the Radisson Blu Le Dokhan’s Hotel. 117 rue Lauriston (16th), 01.53.65.66.99. M° Victor Hugo
Moonshiner
You can taste over 40 different wines by the glass in this fun wine bar, which has received the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence. Vintage Bordeaux, Château d’Yquem and fine champagnes are among the offerings. Nibbles are available as is a full dinner menu that changes weekly. 68 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1st), 01.44.73.97.80. M° Louvre-Rivoli
Prescription Cocktail Club
This trendy bar is excellent for delicious and original cocktails with cool music, friendly staff and tequila. 23 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.45.08.88.09. M° Mabillon
Le Rubis
This quintessential Parisian wine bar attracts a local clientele into its relaxed atmosphere where
you can enjoy wines from the Beaujolais and Burgundy regions among others. 10 rue du Marché St-Honoré (1st), 01.42.61.03.34. M° Pyramides
casino Casino Barriere
France’s largest casino, with elegant decor, table games and slots. Jacket and tie for men; no jeans or running shoes. 3 ave de Ceinture, Enghien-lesBains, 01.39.34.13.17. Train from Gare du Nord
jazz clubs Café Universel
Located near the Latin Quarter, this jazz club is a welcoming and intimate setting where the programme changes nightly. Vocal jam sessions are held every Tuesday night. 267 rue Saint Jacques (5th), 01.43.25.74.20. RER Luxembourg/Port Royal
Caveau de la Huchette
This club in a vaulted cellar in the heart of the Latin Quarter has been showcasing fine jazz music for the past six decades. The spot is rife with history, a Masonic lodge in the 18th century, the Knights Templar held meetings at this location in the Middle Ages. 5 rue de la Huchette (5th), 01.43.26.65.05. M° St-Michel
Duc des Lombards
One of Paris’ oldest jazz clubs magnificently renovated by Andrée Putman’s collaborator, the talented Elliot Barnes. The Duc also boasts one of the best sound-systems in town and is now known as the House of Jazz. Daily performances, live recordings and a healthy mix of jazz man jams make this the address for Jazz. 42 rue des Lombards (1st), 01.42.33.22.88. M° Châtelet
Jazz Club Etoile
A true temple to jazz since it opened two decades ago, the club has welcomed the likes of Count Basie, B.B. King, Cab Calloway and Lionel Hampton. Thurs-Sat. 81 blvd Gouvion Saint-Cyr (17th), 01.40.68.30.42. M° Porte Maillot
New Morning
The legendary Parisian venue for jazz both classic and eclectic has hosted the world’s jazz greats for two decades: Art Blakey, Dizzy Gillespie, Stan Getz... Devoted jazz fans come here to listen to two hours of solid music and the crowd begins to accumulate around 8 pm, so come early. 7-9 rue des Petites-Ecuries (10th), 01.45.23.51.41. M° Château d’Eau
Jazz Club Etoile
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entertainment Address Book
Gentlemen’s Clubs Pink Paradise
The first table-dancing show in Paris and where everyone who still wants to party goes after all the other clubs are done for the night. Mon-Sat 10.30 pm-5 am. 59 rue de Ponthieu (8th), 06.34.57.40.19. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt
Secret Square
The French capital’s only aphrodisiac restaurant and cabaret is a temple to glamour. Sensual savours are featured on the Aphrodisiac Menu like satay, sesame, hot peppers, cinnamon and ginger accompanied by a fine selection of wines and champagne. The show features 20 to 30 dancers in a jewel-box ambiance. 8:30pm-4am. 27 ave des Ternes (17th) , 01.47.66.45.00. M° Ternes
The Penthouse Club
The world famous Penthouse club in Paris offers entertainment seven days a week from 10pm to 5am. Beautiful dancers, two floors, and three stages are all on the agenda in this venue just off of the Champs-Elysées. 13/15 rue de Berri (8th), 01.53.53.86.00. M° George V
niGht Clubs Barock Club
This nightclub features a superb dance floor surrounded by 12 private rooms. Soft pink lighting is perfect for sipping champagne, fine vodkas or drinks. Cocktails to be shared by 2 to 6 patrons are a specialty. Dress smart. Fri-Sat 12am-6am. 23 rue de Ponthieu (8th), 01.42.25.95.00. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt
L’Arc Paris
Favoured by French and international celebrities, enjoy cocktails and fine music with a gorgeous view of the Arc de Triomphe. The stunning décor has been designed by Lenny Kravitz and his studio Kravitz Design. The club has a great dance floor in black and white veined marble, a fumoir and VIP loges. Thurs-Sat 11pm-5am. 12 rue de Presbourg (16th), 01.53.57.40.82. M° Charles de Gaulle Etoile
Le Baron
You can club until dawn at this celebrated and celebrity filled night spot. Look your best to get past the door. 6 ave Marceau (8th), 01.47.20.04.01. M° Alma-Marceau
Le Cab
This restaurant/bar club is a Parisian hot spot for the beautiful people. Make sure to call ahead or you might not be able to enter. Tues-Sat 8pm until late for the club, 8pm-11pm for dinner. 2 Place du Palais Royal (1st), 01.58.62.56.25. M° Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre
Chacha Club
This Parisian nightspot plays host to a revolving array of disc jockeys and special guests. The clubby atmosphere is enhanced by a restaurant replete with terrace and private dining rooms. Mon-Sat, 8pm until midnight for the restaurant, until dawn for the club. 47 rue Berger (1st), 01.40.13.12.12. M° Louvre-Rivoli
Club 79
This excellent spot for Parisian clubbing features fine champagne by the bottle, a cocktail of the week and a variety of musical programmes. Chic and trendy. 22 rue Quentin Bauchart (8th), 01.47.23.69.17. M° George V
Le Duplex
Regulars appreciate the clubby and friendly atmosphere at this comfortable Parisian club replete with gastronomic restaurant whose cosy atmosphere is highlighted by Chesterfield armchairs. The huge dance floor in the discoteque is a dancer’s dream. 2bis ave Foch (16th), 01.45.00.45.00. M° Charles de Gaulle Etoile
La Fidelite
This restaurant turns into a trendy club on Thursdays and Fridays until 2:30am with a revolving array of guest disc jockeys drawing the well-heeled onto the dance floor. 12 rue de la Fidelité (10th), 01.47.70.19.34. M° Gare de l’Est
Le Montana
This nightclub in the heart of the SaintGermain-des-Prés neighbourhood is one of the capital’s trendiest and most select spots. The bar is on the ground floor and the dance floor, downstairs, in the vaulted cellars. 28 rue St Benoît (6th), 01.44.39.71.00. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés
NY Club
This hot club is home to the best of electro DJs and where fashionistas and stars are flocking to for their showcases and their private parties. A glamorous and cabaret-like ambiance awaits you. 130 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.42.21.90.88. M° Louvre-Rivoli
Palais Maillot
A luxurious nightclub known for its gala
Silencio
evenings. Fridays are fashion oriented while Saturdays feature guest DJs. Fri-Sat 11:30pm-6am. 2 Place Porte Maillot (17th), 01.58.56.20.55. M° Porte-Maillot
Le Paris Paris
This trendy nightclub features live concerts and a refurbished large bar, the Shots Bar, for enjoying shots. The club has a member’s only VIP lounge, La Chambre Rouge. Tues-Sat 11pm-6am. 5 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01.42.60.64.45. M° Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre
Queen Club
Attracts a handsome crowd of youthful ultrachic Parisians listening to music from some of the capital’s finest DJs. 102 ave des ChampsElysées (8th), 01.53.89.08.90. M° George V
Raspoutine
This mythical Parisian venue remains an authentic night spot to enjoy cocktails and champagne in a splendid décor created by Erté. 58 rue Bassano (8th) 01.47.20.02.90. M° George V
Le Reservoir
A wonderful night spot to listen to excellent music and discover new artists. The club has a bar with a diverse selection of mojitos and margaritas and restaurant serving excellent dinners followed by entertainment, Tues-Sat. Buffet jazz brunch on Sundays. 16 rue de la Forge Royale (11th), 01.43.56.39.60. M° Faidherbe-Chaligny
Le Showcase
Located beneath the Alexandre III bridge, this is a unique venue and as its name implies is a showcase for musical talent providing a clubby atmosphere. Fri-Sat 10 pm-6 am. Pont Alexandre III, Port des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.61.25.43. M° Champs-Elysées Clémenceau
Silencio
This private club, conceived and designed by David Lynch, offers excellent cocktails, wine and spirits, finger food and food tastings. Non-members are admitted after midnight. Members have access to films, concerts and other performances. 142 rue de Montmartre (2nd) 01.40.13.12.33. M° Sentier/Grands Boulevards
Le Social Club
Trendy spot for enjoying excellent live music, tasty drinks and even a cigarette in the club’s smoking room. 142 rue Montmartre (2nd), 06.84.80.99.40. M° Bourse
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The Guide
NAVIGATE
photo Š A.G. photoGrAphe
Airport Transport | Maps | Limousines | Maps | Districts | Apps | Metro
106 W H E R E Pa r i s i N O V E M B E r 2014
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Airport Transport to charles de gaulle (roissy) airport
Body Relaxation High quality massage, directly in your hotel room. English, French, Spanish spoken.
7/7 call 06 85 81 09 05 0033 (0)6 85 81 09 05
France buses (08.92.35.08.20) leave daily from Montparnasse (Rue du Commandant Mouchotte, 15th, M° Montparnasse) and Gare de Lyon (20 bis blvd Diderot, 12th, M° Gare de Lyon),every 30 min, 6am-10:30pm, 6am-10pm, from airport (Onboard : 17€ one way, 29€ round trip/Online: 15.50€ one way, 26€ round trip). Buses also leave from the Arc de Triomphe (1 ave Carnot, 17th, M° Etoile), and Porte Maillot (Blvd Gouvion St Cyr, 17th, M° Porte Maillot), every 30 min, 5:45 am-11pm (Onboard : 17€ one way, 29€ round trip/Online: 15.50€ one way, 26€ round trip). Take RER B (9.50€) or catch the Roissybus (10€) at 11 rue Scribe, 9th, M° Opéra, every 15 min between 5:45am and 8pm, every 20 min between 7pm and 10pm and every 30 minues between 10pm and 11pm. (01.58.76.16.16). www.aeroportsdeparis.fr
to orly airport The RER B, direction St-Rémy, connects with Orlyval, an automatic train, at Antony. Orlyval runs every 5-7 min, 6 am-11 pm (8.70€). The RER C direction Massy-Verrières connects with a shuttle bus that goes to Orly (6.45€). Or take Orlybus outside the Denfert-Rochereau Métro stop (14th), every 20 min 5:35 am-11 pm (7.20€). Air France buses leave from the Invalides (rue Esnault Pelterie, M° Invalides) the Arc de Triomphe (1 ave Carnot, 17th, M° Etoile) and Gare Montparnasse (rue du commandant Mouchotte, M° Gare Montparnasse) every 20 minutes, 5am-10:40pm from airport 6am-11:40pm (Onboard: 12€ one way, 20€ round trip/Online: 11€ one way, 18€ round trip).
Forget jetlag! For your wellbeing enjoy a massage in your hotel room
Call Now 7/7
www.aeroportsdeparis.fr
to beauvais airport Buses leave daily from the bus parking lot on Blvd Pershing near Hotel Concorde Lafayette (17th, Mo Porte Maillot). Arrive 3 hrs and 15 min before departure time (13€). Or take TER train from Gare du Nord to Beauvais (11.50€, 1 hr 20 min), then taxi to airport.
06 86 20 20 96
+33 686 20 20 96
English, French and Italian spoken
travel between charles de gaulle airport and orly airport Air France buses leave daily from Charles de Gaulle (Roissy) from 5:55am to 10:30pm for Orly Airport/ departures from Orly Airport to Charles de Gaulle Airport from 6:30am to 10:30pm. (Onboard: 20€ one way, 34€ round trip/Online: 18€ one way, 30.50€ round trip). Frequency: every 30 minutes. Journey takes 45 to 60 minutes. Also RER B from Charles de Gaulle to the Antony station then the OrlyVal service to Orly Sud. OrlyVal metros leave daily from 6am-11pm from Antony and Orly Sud. Travel time between the two airports is about 1 hour and 10 minutes. www.aeroportsdeparis.fr
BE INKSPIRED BY PARIS 9 rue Chanez, Paris 16th Tel: +33 618 743 103 www.eazy-ink.com / auteuil@eazy-ink.com w w w.wheretr aveler.c o m 107
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Finding your home in Paris is our full time job Paris real estate is some of the most sought after in the world. But with no citywide database of for-sale listings, buyers must work with dozens of agencies and private sellers to see even a fraction of the available properties. As your buying agent, we tap into our extensive network of contacts and comb through public resources on and off-line, to get you in to see the best properties ahead of the crowd. We provide you with detailed, objective
reports on each property, so that you visit only those best suited to your personal and investment needs. Our comprehensive buying service continues after landing the perfect property, with access to carefully culled legal, banking, renovation, decorating and property management resources that are essential to a successful purchase. From start to ďŹ nish, we make sure your interests are protected and your experience is stress-free.
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NAVIGATE
Handy Apps
Click and Go WHERE NOW PARIS Discover Paris and all it has to offer with this easy to use complete guide to the city. Maps and photographs make navigating a joy while itineraries, a near me now function and theme tours help you plan your day. Practical and descriptive information for enjoying the city’s museums, attractions, restaurants and shops of all kinds are just a click away. Free
VISIT PARIS BY METRO – RATP This is the official application of the RATP, the city’s public transportation system. The application is conceived for visitors who wish to discover Paris by metro. It offers a number of services to find the most beautiful sites in the city and surroundings as well as practical information for major sites. Metro, RER and tramway maps are on hand along with a function to visualise the streets of Paris. Free
MY AIRPORT – ADP
Classical CONCERTS MY MUSEUM LE LOUVRE
This application is a fun way to visit the Louvre with Paulette who guides you with her little red arrow through the corridors and halls of the palatial museum. You can listen to her exclusive interviews with the Mona Lisa, the Venus de Milo and the Great Sphinx. The application enables you to discover the Italian Renaissance, the French school, Ancient Egypt and more. 1.79€
BALADES PARIS DURABLE Discover another way of visiting the city with this application that takes you into the natural world of Paris and places to observe the fauna and the flora of Paris. The application also takes you to new infrastructures in the city as well as neighbourhoods on the move and in the process of transformation. You can visualise each tour through images and a map, read illustrated content, listen to audio guide and follow sustainable development news for Paris. Free
Please note that not all applications work on all phones.
Photo © Apple
This is the official application of the Aéroports de Paris, the authority that manages the airports around Paris. It gives you information in real time for the Charles de Gaulle and Orly airports. Timetables, registration areas and departure gates for flights as well as flight status and flashes for exceptional events are offered by the application. Airport services, shopping and orientation maps of the airports are also on hand. Free
110 W H E R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2014
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PARIS
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www.lescarsairfrance.com Open to everyone • Everyday
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NAVIGATE
Paris Metro Paris is crossed by 14 Métro lines and five RER (express suburban) lines, all numbered and named for their final destination (terminus). Did you know that there are 300 stations that make up Paris’ metro system?
Each Métro trip requires one ticket regardless of how many transfers you make, though you must buy an extra ticket for the RER outside the city limits. Keep your ticket until you exit.
Tickets are sold in all stations and in cafés (tabacs) with a ticket sign outside, single (1.70€/2€ if purchased on a bus) or by 10 (un carnet - 13.70€). This map includes the new tramway line.
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“Paris Visite” passes offer unlimited travel on the Métro and buses (1day 10.85€, 2-day 17.65€, 3-day 24.10€, 5-day 34.70€). The Métro and RER start running at 5:30am, and stop around 1 am.
While the Métro is an extremely safe way to travel, watch out for pickpockets in crowded trains and stations. For information in English, call the transportation company (RATP) directly at 08.92.68.41.14.
• 44,000 square meters dedicated to luxury, fashion and beauty • A building classified historic monument • High-end services to enjoy a unique shopping experience • A panoramic terrace offering the most stunning view of Paris
• A unique shopping experience in the most beautiful museum in the world • The only luxury department store open 7 days a week, even on Sunday • The best selection of iconic gifts for Accessories & Beauty
Haussmann. ��, boulevard Haussmann. ����� Paris — Tél : + ��(�)� �� �� �� �� www.printemps.com Louvre. ��, rue de Rivoli. ����� Paris Tél : + ��(�)� �� �� �� �� www.printemps.com
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My Paris
Olivier rOuy
HEAD CONCIERGE AT THE PENINsulA PARIs HOTEl
The Canal Saint-Martin
Les Climats
For our readers who are looking for a traditional Parisian bistro serving authentic French fare, where would you book them a table? Le Bistrot Belhara, 23 rue Duvivier, 75007, is the perfect place for me to rediscover the pleasure of a generous traditional French meal. Paris is well-known for its magnificent monuments, from where would you suggest our readers get the best view of the city? The terrace of L’Oiseau Blanc, the French restaurant of The Peninsula Paris Hotel where you have a view of the sacré Cœur, rooftops of Paris and the Eiffel Tower. As the fashion capital, which areas do
you think showcase the best fashions? The Haut Marais neighbourhood is the perfect place to see and experience the trends. For a couple in love where would you recommend they go for a romantic dinner? Les Climats French restaurant, 41 rue de Lille, 75007, for their exceptional Burgundy wine list and the romantic setting complete with cosy armchairs. What have you recently discovered in Paris that you would advise guests to see? My favourite is Pages, a French restaurant, 4 rue auguste Vacquerie, 75016, where a surprise is present in every dish and where the taste and inventiveness of the chef make it a true dining experience.
My perfect day 9am rowing on the Grand Canal of Château de Versailles 12pm an organic lunch at Café Pinson, 6 rue du Forez, 75003 3pm Fall in love again with Niki de saint Phalle and take in the exhibition at the Grand Palais 9pm Dinner at Lili, The Peninsula Paris Hotel’s Cantonese restaurant Lili
What is a location in Paris that pleasantly surprised you? The rooftop of the Hermès boutique is quite a magical place complete with its very own rose garden. Where is one of the areas in Paris that is ideal for a leisurely stroll? The perfect place for me is along the saint-Martin canal, along the Jemmapes docks, where you will find a row of bistros and cafes.
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Your Guide to the World
Canal saint-Martin photo © Paris Tourist Office - Jacques Lebar; les climates © Christine Tamalet; the louvre © Paris Tourist Office - Marc Bertrand
If one of our readers is only in Paris for 24 hours what one thing would you recommend they do? a cruise on the seine aboard a riva, followed by a tour of the Louvre. Lunch at Caillebotte, 8 rue Hippolyte Lebas, 75009, then walk through the Marais. a tour of Paris by night to discover the City of Light before an aperitif at Compagnie des Vins surnaturels and dinner at semilla, 54 rue de seine, 75006, before one last drink at Prescription Cocktail Club, 23 rue Mazarine, 75006.
The Louvre
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great duty free time in our airports
1,000 brands at duty free prices from the 1st € spent, no tax refund procedure, no excess baggage, at Paris-Orly and Paris-Charles de Gaulle airports. 1 000 marques à prix duty free dès le 1er € dépensé, sans formalité de détaxe, sans excédent bagages, dans les aéroports Paris-Orly et Paris-Charles de Gaulle.
parisworldwide.com aeroportsdeparis.fr
* Faites-vous plaisir à prix duty free dans nos aéroports.
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THE PARIS ADDRESS FOR WATCHES
12, boulevard des Capucines, Paris 9e | bucherer.com
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