Where® Thailand May 2012

Thailand

PLUS

m ay 2 0 12 the complete guide to go ®

®

capital communities Discovering Bangkok’s top neighborhoods

PLUS YOUR ULTIMATE GUIDE TO BANGKOK COVER_1.indd 1

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contents where

®

l THAILAND l mAY 2012

the guide

Bangkok

18 arts+Culture The top galleries, attractions and museums and this month's exhibition highlights

20 dining We introduce two exciting new Thai restaurants and take a tour of Chinatown

25 nightlife A new Gothic-themed bar brings a bewitching vibe to Sukhumvit

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26 SHOPS+Services The city's latest mall offers a blend of Thai history and great river views

Features

28 Health+Wellness The city's newest spa promises an urban oasis in the heart of the city

05 l Community Focus We take you on a tour of four of Bangkok's

29 Maps

most fascinating neighborhoods.

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Silom, Sukhumvit, Siam and Rattanakosin

10 l Border Patrol Discovering a hidden city and a slower pace of life in Sangklaburi on the Burmese border

also inside

Escapes

12 Managing Editor, Special Projects Nick Measures Editor Top Koaysomboon General Manager James Fuss Managing Editor Grégoire Glachant Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Art Director Dechart Sangsawang Designer Panita Thiraphapong

4 Hot dates 16 Hot Stuff

12 Island News

29 navigate

14 Mountain news

34 30 Things We Love

Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Senior Sales Associate Napasnun Sawanrachai Marketing Manager Arunee Wilson Marketing Executive, Creative Services Puttipat Teerakawongsakul Distribution Executive Suda Angsuputiphant Cover by Dechart Sangsawang Cover images, clockwise from top left: WTF, Siam Discovery, Museum Siam, Chakrabongse Villa, Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, Asiatique, Prachanaruemit Rd.

Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 22/F, Silom Center 2 Silom Road, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: where@asia-city.co.th facebook.com/WhereThailand

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP | EXECUTIVE Vice President, Operations Donna Kessler Vice President, Operational Innovation Russ Leseberg Director Of Marketing Lynn Basinger

Mvp | National Sales Director Of National Sales And Custom Publishing Anthony Karwoski National Sales Managers Jennifer O'loughlin, Julie Humeas, Monica Weeks, Wanda Garcia-Fetherston

National Traffic Coordinator Leleah Robinson

E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.

Com

Mvp | Cartography And Circulation General Manager, Where Maps Christopher Huber

Morris Comunications Chairman & Ceo William S. Morris Iii President William S. Morris Iv Mvp | Creative Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson Editorial Director, Visitor Guides Don Hoffman

Design Director Jane Frey Editorial Director, Custom Publishing Linda Chase Creative Coordinator Beverley Mandelblatt

Mvp | Technology & Manufacturing Director Of Manufacturing Donald Horton E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.Com

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hot dates THAILAND

Courtesy of Ministry of Agriculture and Cooperatives

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May 9

May 3-6

Royal Ploughing Ceremony

Demon in Venice

Held annually at Sanam Luang, in front of the Grand Palace, the Royal Ploughing Ceremony is an ancient Hindu-influenced rite to mark the traditional beginning of the rice planting season. Officials dressed in ornate ceremonial outfits lead two sacred oxen to plough the ceremony’s grounds before they offer the oxen different types of food (rice, corn, liquor and more). A Brahman fortuneteller will then predict the coming harvest based on what food the oxen choose. The king or a royal dignitary will attend.

Sanam Luang, Phranakhon, Bangkok. Contact TAT Contact Center 1672 for further details.

Young, up-and-coming Thai choreographer Jitti Chompee’s latest contemporary dance is his own interpretation of the classic short novel Death in Venice written by German author Thomas Mann. The subject? A writer who visits the Italian city to cure his writer’s block and becomes infatuated with a beautiful boy.

Ticket B500. At Jeh United, 142-144 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-663-5499. pomjoli@yahoo.com, www.18monkeydancetheatre.com

May 26-Jun 2 Samui Regatta Started as a small race in 2001, the Samui Regatta is now one of Asia’s largest yacht races and the finale of the Asian Yachting Grand Prix season. Hundreds of luxe vessels, sailors, spectators and parties are expected during the eight-day event. If you brought your yacht, the entry fee to race is B12,500 per team. At Centara Grand Samui, Chaweng Beach, 077-230-500, and Beach Republic, Lamai Beach, 077-458-100. www.samuiregatta.com

May 25

May 9-12

Lady Gaga: The Born This Way Ball

Les Ballets Trockadero de Monte Carlo

After two years of planning, America’s zany pop queen, Lady Gaga, is finally set to perform her extravagant show at Rajamangala Stadium on the outskirts of Bangkok. Expect a newlydesigned performance specially created for the Oceanic leg of her world tour. Tickets are from B1,500-B7,000, at Thaiticketmajor.com.

The comedic all-male ballet group from New York returns to Bangkok to perform the classic Swan Lake but with a burlesque twist that mixes the classical and contemporary—and with plenty of cross-dressing. Tickets are B1,700-3,000.

At Royal Paragon Hall, 5/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-610-8023. BTS Siam. www. thaiticketmajor.com

Jun 1-3 Jim Thompson Sale The famous Thai silk company hosts its annual sale featuring fabrics, carpets, curtains, clothes and small accessories, all at bargain prices you won’t find elsewhere—not even at its discount outlets. At BITEC, Bang Na-Trat Rd., 02-749-3939. BTS Bang Na.

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Neighborhood Watch

The top districts to explore in the capital.

Bangkok is a huge, sprawling city which can make it very bewildering for visitors trying to find their way around. We make things a little easier by taking you on a tour of our four favorite neighborhoods.

A view from Threesixty, millennium Hilton

Upper Chao Phraya Royal palaces, historic shophouses and stunning river views See Your trip to Bangkok wouldn’t be complete without a visit to The Grand Palace and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha (Entry fee B350. Open daily 8.30am-3.30pm.

Proper attire is required.) The highlights at the palace include the Chakri Mahaprasat Hall, dubbed the ‘Westerner with the Thai hat’ due its mix of architectural styles.

Located next door is Wat Phra Kaeo. The grounds feature a series of striking golden chedis and beautiful hand-painted murals based on the classic Hindu epic, the Ramayana. The most important building is the ordination hall (ubosot), which houses the Emerald Buddha, Thailand’s most sacred religious icon.

This neighborhood is rich in history, which can be explored through two local museums. The Bangkok National Museum (Entry fee B250. Open Wed-Sun 9am-4pm. www.nationalmuseums.finearts.go.th),

offers three permanent exhibitions, covering Thai history, archaeological artifacts and decorative arts, housed inside a series of ornate pavilions. Meanwhile, the Museum of Siam (Sanamchai Rd) offers a more interactive and fun approach to Thai history.

Finally, you also shouldn’t miss a walk through Tha Prachan, between Tha Thien and Maharaj Piers. Bangkok’s leading amulet market offers everything related to the sacred objects, from decoration services to pawn shops and book stores.

This district is also home to the infamous Khao San Road. This former rice market is now a popular tourist destination due to the numerous cheap guesthouses, street stalls, cafes, bars and clubs, which give the place a very distinctive vibe. You can escape the craziness, though, with a short stroll to the neighboring Phra Arthit Road, with its funky bars and cafes (see Drink) sitting inside beautiful old shophouses that retain many period details.

Situated halfway down Phra Athit is Phra Sumen Fort, a stocky citadel, part of the river defences constructed in 1783 to protect the capital. The area around the fort is now a popular park called Suan Santichaiprakarn.

Eat This area is heaven for those wanting to dine riverside. The Deck (Arun Residence, Soi Pratunokyung, Maharaj Rd., 02-2219158) is the best known spot thanks to its great views across to Wat Arun and good menu of international and Thai dishes. Book ahead to secure one of the best spots out on the outdoor terrace. Also sat by the river, Chakrabongse Villa (396 Maharaj Rd., Ta Tien, 089-810-0498, 081-905-3039, www.chakrabongsedining.com) is actually a former royal palace. It offers private dining where you get to sample authentic Thai cuisine amid opulent surroundings. Over on the Thonburi side of the Chao Phraya,

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Chakrabongse villa

Supratra River House (Soi Wat Rakang, 02-411-0305) serves up royal Thai cuisine as well as Thai cultural performances, and great views of the Grand Palace from the charming riverside terrace. You can reach Supatra by free shuttle boat from Maharaj Pier.

Drink Phra Arthit is home to a number of intriguing little bars that have plenty of original character. Try Jazz Happens (02-282-9934) with its live performances; long time favorite Kin Duem (02-629-1199) in its charming old shophouse; and, our pick, Brown Sugar (Phra Sumane Rd., 081-805-7759), a top music spot with a second floor art space.

Shop Get a cross-river ferry from Prachan Pier to Wang Lang Market (Wang Lang Pier) and you’ll discover one of Bangkok’s most popular bazaars for vintage finds. If you don’t mind getting hot and sweaty then dive into this rabbit warren of stalls and get ready to rub shoulders with office workers and students on the hunt for cool vintage bags, shoes and clothes at very affordable prices.

Mandarin Oriental

Lower Chao Phraya Riverside luxury and nautical tales See

Eat

A short walk from Charoen Krung Road Serindia Gallery (O.P. Garden, Charoen Krung Soi 36, Charoenkrung Rd., 02-2386410), in the lovely O.P. Garden complex focuses on the art and culture of Asia and has regularly rotating exhibitions.

Alternatively, head down to Central pier (BTS Saphan Thaksin) to visit two nautically inspired temples. Jiew Eng Biew Shrine (next to Central Pier) is a Chinese temple constructed 150 years ago to commemorate a major shipwreck, while the nearby Wat Yannawa features a pagoda built in the shape of a Chinese junk to commemorate the importance of trade with China.

You are seriously spoilt for choice at the legendary Mandarin Oriental Bangkok (Oriental Ave, Charoenkrung, 02-659-9000), home to a number of great restaurants. You can try the sexy Shanghai sophistication of China House, enjoy the expansive river views and impeccable service at Lord Jim’s, sip high tea at the historic Author’s Lounge, while Le Normandie has set the standards for French cuisine for years. For more local fare then head to the riverside teak decking at Thiptara (Peninsula Bangkok, 333 Charoennakorn Rd., 02-861-2888) where you can discover home-style Thai cooking and spotless service. Across the river, Sambal (1/F, Royal Orchid Sheraton, Captain Bush Lane, 02-266-0123) offers up

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feature South East Asian dishes while the Sunday high tea at the Shangri-la (Soi Wat Suan Plu, 02-206-8677), has a mini-orchestra serenading impeccably dressed ladies as they foxtrot across the dance floor.

Drink Quite simply, Viva & Aviv (River City Shopping Complex, 23, Yotha Rd. 02639-6305) has made the river cool again.

It boasts a fun naval theme and pirate inspired-interiors and serves up some highquality cocktails. On the roof of the same complex you’ll also find the underrated Balco (5/F, River City Shopping Complex, Yotha Rd., 08-4928-6161.), a laid-back bar with one of the best sunset river views in town. For another impressive view then head cross the river to the rooftop bar of the Millennium Hilton Hotel. ThreeSixty’s (32/F, Millennium Hilton, 02-442-2000.

Klongsan Pier) wraparound windows and live jazz make it a very chill spot to watch the river traffic.

Shop Asiatique The Riverfront (2194 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-108-4488) is probably Bangkok’s first shopping center on the banks of Chao Phraya River. Themed according to the city’s architecture of yore, and divided into several sections, this giant alfresco mall is also home to countless shops, bars, eateries and a number of theaters (See Shopping page 26).

If you are looking for a unique gift for you or your family, then the recently renovated River City (Yotha Rd., 02-237-0077), is home to a vast collection of arts, antiques, lifestyle products and an auction house.

Nearby, OP Garden (Charoenkrung Soi 36, 02-266-0186, 02-235-8865), the three-level lifestyle mall features almost 30 upscale outlets, from furniture shops like Reflections and Solutions to restaurants and cafes like Mango Tree Signature and Doitung. From there, a short walk gets you to O.P. Place (Charoenkrung Soi 38,

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02-266-0186) whose plushly carpeted, chandelier-lit corridors offer numerous highend art and antique boutiques. Finally, make sure you don’t miss Lotus Art de Vivre (1/F, Mandarin Oriental, 02-235-1875), which stocks refined one-of-a-kind jewelry and accessories.

Viva&Aviv

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feature Thonglor

The city’s nightlife and dining hub See Within walking distance from the BTS is bar and gallery WTF Gallery & Cafe and sister event space Opposite (Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-662-6246. www.facebook.com/ wtf.bangkok). Now open for two years it has quickly established itself as a gathering place for artists and hipster expats, with a varied program that includes sculptures, pop-up restaurants, live music events and a high-quality open mic night called Bangkok Poetry. Check their Facebook for updates.

Eat Thonglor/Ekkamai is Bangkok’s most happening district for hip eateries. Thai food lovers should sample the classic dishes and service of Patara Fine Thai Cuisine (375 Thonglor Soi 19, 02-185-2960/1), try the potent cocktails and flavorful offerings of Soul Food Mahanakhon (56/10 Thonglor, 02-714-7708) or enjoy the authentic Southern dishes at the charming Phuket Town (Thonglor Soi 6, 714-9402). 4 Garcons (Oakwood Residence, 113

Thonglor Soi 13, 02-713-9547) offers classic French fare, Bacco Osteria (35/1 Sukhumvit 53, 02-662-4538) serves rustic Italian cuisine, while Xuan Mai has some of the best Vietnamese food in town. Meanwhile, The Water Library (Grass, Thonglor Soi 12, 02-714-9292/3) pushes the boundaries of Bangkok’s dining scene with a 12 course set menu served up to a maximum of 10 guests per night. For more dining see page 20.

Drink There’s something for everyone: Iron Fairies (394 Thonglor, 084-520-2301) is a Victorian fairy factory, Clouds (Seen Space, Thonglor Soi 13, 02-185-2365) is a clubby, futuristic eco-lab, while the always popular HOBS (Penny’s Balcony) and Brew Beer and Ciders (Seen Space, Thonglor Soi 13, 02-185-2366) have a pub vibe and a focus on imported beers. For a more refined wine-focused affair then Wine Republic (Thonglor, 02-714-7599) and Mellow (Penny’s Balcony, Thonglor, 02-382-0065) are currently the most popular. If you want to keep the party going then high-energy

night clubs like Muse, Demo and Funky Villa (all on Thong Lor Soi 10) do the trick.

Shop Home to numerous community malls like J Avenue, Marketplace, Eight Thonglor, Penny’s Balcony, Grass Complex and Seenspace, the focus here is very much on cute stand alone boutiques often with a girly focus, oh and it also happens to be wedding dress central. Still, there are a couple of offbeat gems: Again & Again (Market Place Thonglor) stocks cool vintage fashion while Goose (Thonglor Soi 13) is a charming high end paper and scrapbooking store.

Mellow

Bangkok’s Classic Shopping Streets Bangkok is a city blessed with specialist neighborhoods dedicated to a single craft or product. Here we round up some of the best known in town.

Mahachai Road. Wicker baskets and gifts.

Prachanaruemit. Hand carved items and teak furniture.

Sue Pa Rd. Phone accessories and leather.

Sapanlek, Charoenkrung Rd. Old cameras, video games.

Phra Nakorn

Rattanakosin

Ban Mor, Ban Mor Rd. audio equipment and jewelry.

Kok Wua Rd. (near Khaosan Rd.) Secondhand books.

Bang Sue

Banglumpoo, Tanao Rd. (near Khaosan Rd.) Silver accessories.

Phaya Thai

Pathum Wan

Phukhao Thong, Boriphat Rd. Fireworks, monk bowls.

BTS Siam

Thon Buri Khlong Toei

Charoenrat Road. Leather, textiles and accessores.

National Stadium. Replica football kits, brand name boots and other sporting gear.

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Ploenchit

Malls, mysticism and a green oasis See 100 Tonson (Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd., 02-684-1527) is an art gallery that hosts contemporary art exhibitions from renowned Asian artists. Alternate contemplation is also available at the end of Wireless Road in the form of Lumpini Park. Bangkok’s largest downtown park is a leafy and calm oasis of playgrounds, lakes and pavilions making it a tranquil escape from the traffic and the crowds. Keep an eye out for the impressive monitor lizards, too. Finally, don’t miss the Erawan Shrine right next to Chidlom BTS. It’s a popular spot for people to pray for good fortune and is best known for the performances by its resident dance troupe.

though Sita Bar at Tenface Bangkok (Soi Ruamrudee 2, 02-695-4242) is a new hit among young socialites.

Shop A shopper’s paradise, the neighborhood is home to countless malls. ID1, at Amarin Plaza (Ploenchit Rd., 02-650-4704), has quirky budget fashion options while Gaysorn (Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1149) is home to top-notch luxury brands like Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Dior and Fendi.

Central Chidlom (Ploenchit Rd., 02793-7777) is one of Asia’s leading malls.

It’s not big enough to get lost in but still houses enough out there brands to keep things edgy.

Hyde & Seek

Eat Those looking for a spot of classic Western food are spoilt for choice: There’s BKK Bagel Bakery (Maneeya Center, 02-2548157), specializing in New York style bagels. Cafe Tartine (Athenee Residence, 02-168-5464), an adorable French cafe on Soi Ruamrudee, serves coffee, light salads and French baguettes. While renowned New York-based café and deli Dean and Deluca (1/F, Park Ventures, 02-1082200) has recently opened its second branch close to the BTS. For dinner, there’s everything from the raucous, Mexican cantina-esque La Monita (next to Mahatun Plaza, 02-650-9581) with the best tacos in town, to the B1,600 degustation menu at Gaggan, where the chef (who spent time at the El Buli research facility) re-interprets Indian classics in very modern ways.

Dean & Deluca

Drink Snotty and debauched Hyde & Seek Gastro Bar (Athenee Residence, Soi Ruamrudee, 02-168-5152) is the clear stand-out in the area with its high-flying clientele, killer cocktails and mix of Victorian gentleman’s club gravitas and New York sophistication. The old-school clubbing option in the area is Spasso (Grand Hyatt Erawan, 02-250-1826), where you’ll meet well connected locals,

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AROUND THAILAND

A Weekend in Sangklaburi This sleepy haven of global NGOs is now a serene new destination for peace seekers. By Top Koaysomboon

Songaria River, a view from Mon Bridge

Sangklaburi is little known to Thais, let alone appearing on the radar of international tourists, but this mini commune on the banks of Songaria River, close to the Thai-Burmese border, has been a long-time destination for western volunteers who come to assist the displaced mix of stateless Thai and Mon people, who were resettled here when their villages were submerged by the construction of the Khao Laem Dam in 1982. The unique cultural mix is just one factor that makes Sangklaburi a truly charming destination, a place that offers jungle treks, underwater cities, cute cafes and river rafting.

Cultural Trek Sangklaburi is most beautiful in the early morning, and it’s worth getting up with the sun to take part in the town’s most famous activity: offering morning alms.

Every morning, monks walk from Wat Wangwiwekaram on the Mon side of the river, crossing the 400-meter long Mon bridge to accept alms, their orange robes standing out vividly against the chilly morning mist. Once the alms giving is complete, you can repeat the journey of the monks, crossing the bridge to the Burmese side. Here you’ll find the newly-built Wat Wangwiwekaram and Chedi Buddhakaya, which were both built to replace the previous temple which is now underwater.

Jungle Rafting

Despite the sleepy vibe you can indulge in some adventure, with a ride-and-raft trip.

It’s available through most resorts though

the one from P Guesthouse (B850-950/ person) is the best known and includes one night’s accommodation and one lunch. You catch a small boat from town and head up the Ranti River before being dropped off in the middle of the dense jungle. You’ll then clamber onto the backs of elephants for an hour-long ride before donning a life vest and jumping onto rather flimsy looking bamboo rafts for the float back downstream. The entire trip takes around five hours.

Hidden City The other boat trip available here is a little less strenous and involves a short ride to what the locals call “the underwater city.”

The city is actually the old Wangwiwekaram Temple, which was submerged as part of the Khao Laem Dam construction process.

When the water level drops in the dry season (Mar-Apr), entire buildings appear above the water. For the rest of the year, you can actually float over the top of the temple

Mon Bridge

rooftops. The boat trip takes around half an hour, and costs B200 (at Mon bridge) to B300 (at your hotel) per boat of 5-6 people.

Coffee Aroma If not traveling in winter, the midday in Sangklaburi can get deadly hot. Still it’s the perfect excuse to chill out at one of the three hip cafés in Town. Blend Cafe (next to bus station, 034-595-204) is the only one in an air-conditioned shophouse— ideal for a hot day—and features ivorycolored walls, vintage-print tiles, relaxed seating and Arabica coffee. Coffee Berry (Soi Sam Prasob, 084-802-9811) has a Mediterranean blue and white theme, with

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Around thailand Burmese Buffet With the strong Burmese culture in the area, it’s the perfect excuse to try some authentic Burmese dishes. One of the best places is the restaurant at the Burmese Inn (034-595146, www.burmeseinn.com) where you’ll get to enjoy dishes like Burmese-style chilli paste

Haiku Guesthouse

lots of handmade details like chairs and mobiles. Finally, Graph Cafe (Srisuwan Khiri Rd., 081-751-2365) is the spot for design fans and is always popular with NGO-types. You can also shop for a bunch of locally-made merchandise, from postcards to bags, to support the charities.

Coffee Berry and Graph Cafe both offer guestrooms hidden in their backyards.

Getting there You can catch a bus from Mochit Bus Station, from Bangkok to Dan Chedi Sam Ong (B302/way), but the trip takes around 6 hours. You might be better off renting a car or private mini bus and reduce your journey time to just four hours.

Getting Around Motorcycle taxis head all over town with prices starting from B10. Rent a motorbike at P Guesthouse (B250/day, see

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and noodles. The Mon region is also famous for khanom jin or rice noodles (khanom juen in Mon language), so don’t forget to try the local recipe kanom chine yuak kluay (rice noodle with banana’s trunk soup). Have it at a no-name place at the foot of the Mon Bridge on the Burmese side, and enjoy it while watching the world go by.

Where to Stay) or you can hire a bicycle, too (B70/day) but be warned, this area is very hilly.

Where to stay Riverside options include the American country-style P Guesthouse (B250-950.

Srisuwan Khir Rd., 034-595061, 081-450-2783) and the more luxurious Samprasob Resort (B900-3,000.

Samprasob Rd., 034-595050), which has a great view over the Mon bridge. Coffee Berry (B800. Soi Sam Prasob,

084-802-9811) offers five rooms decked out in five different themes, while the four guestrooms of Haiku Guesthouse (Srisuwan Khiri Rd., 081-751-2365) are housed in a traditional Japanese house behind Graph Cafe.

Voluntourism For those interested in volunteering to help stateless children, Baan Un Rak (034595-428, emails@baanunrak. org, www.baanunrak.org) has a number of programs.

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ESCAPES

Island News Grand openings, hot promotions and special events at Thailand’s top beach destinations

Intercontinental samui

Y KOH SAMUI Beach Blessing Couples looking for a memorable wedding by the beach take heed: the InterContinental Samui Baan Taling Ngam Resort is launching a series of wedding packages starting from B78,000.

Guided by an appointed wedding planner, your wedding, in either traditional Thai or classic Western style, will include flower arrangements, professional photographers, fine cuisine, a wedding cake, an escort by a baby elephant, live music, flying lanterns and fireworks. Have the ceremony on a private pier over the water, on the beach or in a beachfront villa. Or just hire out all 79 villas for family and friends. Room rates are from B12,900 per night for a minimum three-night stay, inclusive of breakfast, a bottle of champagne, 90-minute spa treatment for two and a three-course set dinner.

Taling Ngam Beach, Koh Samui, Suratthani, 077-429-100. reservations@ickohsamui.com, samui. intercontinental.com

More beachside wedding options in Koh Samui

Unlimited View Perched on the northern tip of the island, the elevated deck of Six Senses’ Dining on the Rocks offers a breathtaking view over the deep blue sea, the perfect backdrop for those wedding photos.

Six Senses Samui, 9/10 Moo 5, Baan Plai Laem, Koh Samui, 077-245678. www.sixsenses. com

Sophisticated Orient Set in a resort which takes its architectural cues from ancient China, Le Meridien will bring a bit of chic Shanghai-era romance to any wedding, whether it is at the beachfront restaurant or private beachfront pool villa.

Le Meridien Koh Samui, Lamai Beach, Koh Samui, 077-960-888. www.lemeridien.com/ kohsamui

Minimal Chic From its striking white architecture to its stunning red swimming pool next to the beach, The Library is just perfect for those uberstylish couples who swear by the latest trends in Wallpaper* and Monocle .

The Library, Chaweng Beach, Koh Samui, 077-422-767/8. www. thelibrary.co.th

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ESCAPES Y NATIONWIDE Beach Life Centara Hotels & Resorts is offering packages to weekenders who can add an extra night or two to their stays.

Valid now through Oct 31, choose from three- to five-night stays with daily breakfast, one-hour massage for two and a roundtrip airport transfer. Prices vary, from B8,070 for three nights in a tropical suite at Centara Chaan Talay Resort & Villas, in Trat, to B42,100 for three nights in a luxury pool suite at Centara Grand Beach Resort Phuket.

Visit www.centarahotelsresorts. com/package/LifeBeach.asp for reservations.

into the museum, exhibiting Ban Chiang prehistoric Thai ceramics and pottery, to demonstrate how long Thai people had been settled in the area. Historic artifacts include stones knives, axes, terracotta pots and jewelry aged from 3,000BC to 1,900AD. Open by appointment only, currently without entry fee.

Contact 088-249-3901 or privatemuseum@hotmail.com.

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private museum

Y PHUKET & PHANG NGA Low-Season Deals For the second year, the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) is teaming up with airlines and hotels to offer tempting packages to bring back tourists to Phuket and Phang Nga during the low season. “Phuket Great Time: Season 2” features two styles of packages: Jib Jib packages include a two-night stay and car rental, while Miracle Phuket-Phang Nga packages include two nights, car rentals and roundtrip air tickets. Rates for Jib Jib packages are B2,600-4,950 per person, depending on your choice of hotels while rates for Miracle PhuketPhang Nga offers are B5,755-8,255 per person if you fly Nok Air and B7,3009,600 per person if you opt for Bangkok Airways. Rates are based on twin sharing.

Visit www.phuketgreattine.com for more details, a complete list of participating hotels and to make reservations. Valid through Oct 25.

Y SAMUI Hidden Treasures We were just introduced to Samui’s only private museum that sits on the banks of Pru Chaweng Lake and houses a vast collection of prehistoric items. The story goes that ML Arachawa Worawan, a veteran artist who designed one of Thailand’s very first boutique hotels, Muang Kulaypan (www.kulaypan.com), converted his villa-turned-restaurant may 2012 I WHER E T H A I L A N D 13

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ESCAPES

Upcountry news New hotels, special events and great promos at Thailand’s rural retreats.

Zensala

Y NORTHERN THAILAND

Zensala

Y CHIANG MAI

Zen River In what is definitely a growing trend, we’ve uncovered yet another new boutique hotel in downtown Chiang Mai. Set on the bank of the Ping River, not far from the center of town, Zensala might have a very contemporary façade, featuring edgy lines and raw cement, but inside it’s all warm woods and brightly colored cushions.

With 14 rooms and suites, it’s truly boutique, but they do manage to squeeze in an all-day restaurant, Deli, and a spa.

Introductory rates are B2,000-5,300 until May 31, inclusive of breakfast.

Zensala, 168 Patan Rd., Muang, Chiang Mai, 053-225-888. www.zensalaresort. com

Zensala

Y KHAOYAI

Weekday Wonder Khao Yai is a popular countryside escape close to Bangkok, which offers rugged tree-clad mountains and cool morning mists—and Kirimaya Resort now lets you experience it for less thanks to their new weekday deals. Their Muthi Maya forest pool villa is B7,900/night inclusive of breakfast, a glass of refreshing virgin mojito, a choice of body treatment at their spa and a choice between one set lunch or a round of golf. The promotion is valid on Sunday to Friday nights only.

Kirimaya, Khao Yai, Nakhon Ratchasma, 044-426-000. www.kirimaya.com

Classic Siam For those who really want to experience the rich culture of Thailand, and get a little off the beaten track, but don’t want the stress of organizing their own trip, leading five-star tour operator Exotissimo has just introduced a six-day-five-night “Classic Thailand” program. Led by a professional tour guide, the trip caters to visitors who wish to explore the temples, museums and attractions of central and northern Thailand taking in Bangkok, Ayutthaya, Uthaithani, Phitsanuloke, Sukhothai, Lampang, Phayao, Chiang Rai and Chiang Mai—a number of which contain UNESCO heritage sites. The rate is from B19,900 per person (exclusive of transportation from Chiang Mai to Bangkok), on a twin sharing basis.

Exotissimo Travel Group, 02-633-9060. www.exotissimo.com

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ESCAPES

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Animal Run A trip to Chiang Mai would not be complete without a visit to the zoo.

At The Small Chiang Mai, a 35-room boutique hotel, guests staying for two consecutive nights or longer will get free entry to the Chiang Mai Night Safari, where the whole family will enjoy life on the wild side. The Small also boasts a quirky interior design and is welllocated, close to Waroros Market and the old town. Rates from B1,550 per night through Oct 31.

148-150 Ta Pae Rd., Muang, 053-235866/7. www.thesmallhotelgroup.com

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Y PETCHABUN

Flower Power During Thailand’s rainy season (basically from May to October), tropical orchid lovers should head to the jungle of Nam Nao National Park in Petchabun to witness the beauty of the Euang Bussarakham wild orchid, which only blossoms at this time of the year.

Despite having delicate petals, the Euang Bussarakham’s stem can reach lengths of up to two meters and ranks as one of Thailand’s most amazing natural wonders. Contact TAT Phitsanulok at 055-252-742/3 for further details and exact locations of where to see the flower.

The Small

Euang Bussarakham

Chiang Mai

Fly Thai Your trips to other provinces around Thailand just got cheaper, thanks to deals and packages from local carriers bracing themselves for the low season.

THAI Airways (www.thaiairways. com) recently rolled out new fares between Bangkok and domestic destinations. For example, a oneway ticket is B1,930 to Khon Kaen, B2,185 to Chiang Mai, B2,630 to Phuket and B2,905 to Hat Yai. Seats are limited and rates include fuel surcharge but exclude airport taxes. Valid through Jun 30, visit www.thaiairways.com for details and reservations. may 2012 I WHER E T H A I L A N D 15

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hot stuff

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Courtesy of Emporio Armani

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Hat Trick

El Nino aside, May traditionally marks the real start of the rainy season in Thailand. It means you need to be prepared for hot and sticky weather interspersed with sudden tropical downpours. Keep the rain and sun off and stay cool and dry with these classic hats in natural materials.

1 Gucci, B12,900 2 Jaspal, B1,295 3 Emporio Armani, B10,900 4 Marks & Spencer, B1,290 5 Paul Smith, B5,500 6 Billabong, B1,190

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Billabong, 3/F, Central Chidlom, Ploenchit Rd., 02-793-7777. BTS Chit Lom. Emporio Armani, G/F, Gaysorn, Ploenchit, Rd., 02-656-1134. BTS Chit Lom. Gucci, 1/F, The Emporium, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-664-8200. BTS Phrom Phong.

Jaspal, nationwide. Try 1/F, Terminal 21, 02-108-0876. BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit.

Marks & Spencer, 3/F, Central Chidlom, Ploenchit Rd., 02-793-7777. BTS Chit Lom. Paul Smith, 1/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-610-9770/1. BTS Siam.

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where

the guide art

Portraits de la Mode

Ongoing French Cultural Festival La Fete brings photographs of design icons—YvesSaint Laurent behind the curtain, Kenzo riding an elephant, Jean-Paul Gaultier hugging Sonia Rykiel, Giorgio Armani sitting on an airport runway, and Karl Lagerfeld posing with his models in heavenly gowns—in this celebration of fashion captured by French photographer Jean-Marie Perier. Through Jun 30. In front of Zen Department Store, CentralWorld, Ratchadamri Rd., BTS Chid Lom.

arts + CULTURE..................................... 18-19 dining....................................................... 20-24 nightlife.........................................................25

shops + services.................................26-27 health + wellness..................................28

navigate.........................................................29 maps............................................................29-33

Note that the reference at the end of the listings (W S24, Z D3 etc) apply to the coordinates on the individual maps on pages 29-33.

Listings without coordinates indicate locations not within the maps.

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Art+Culture BANGKOK

Art Exhibition Highlights

Art on Farm — A photo diary featuring 17 artworks created by 19 artists as part of Jim Thompson Farm’s annual art project.

Through Jun 24. Jim Thompson Art Center, 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, 02-216-7368. BTS National Stadium. Open daily 9am-5pm.

Fundamentals of Living — A professor of fine arts, Tanupon En-on, captures the essence of Thai-Isaan culture in this series of sketches showing farming tools, local plants and animals. Through May 30. Whitespace Gallery, 2/F, Lido Bldg, 260 Siam Square Soi 3, 02-252-2900. BTS Siam. Open Tue-Fri 1pm7pm, Sat-Sun 11:30am-8pm..

Beyond Desire — Artist Manit Srisuwan’s striking, slightly menacing abstract human forms look to challenge the assumptions that the drive for material gains really brings us fulfillment and happiness. Through May 19.

Number 1 Gallery, Basement, Silom Galleria, 919/1 Silom Rd., 02-630-2523. Open MonSat 10am-7pm.

ART GALLERIES 100 TONSON GALLERY ­— With a prime location and well-designed space, this gallery doesn’t shy away from political topics and attracts leading artists. 100 Soi Tonson, Phloenchit Rd., 02-6841527. BTS Chit Lom. Open Thu-Sun 11am-7pm. www.100tonsongallery.com YN20

KATHMANDU PHOTO GALLERY ­— A four-floor gallery, which includes a specialty bookstore, is focused on promoting the work of up-andcoming local photographers. 87 Soi Pan, Silom Rd., 02-234-6700. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open TueSun 11am-7pm. www.kathmandu-bkk.com XI11

ARDEL GALLERY OF MODERN ART ­— This vast 720-square-meter space hosts visual and performing arts events. It also has a café and runs art workshops and seminars. 99/45 Belle Ville, Boromratchonnanee Rd (Km 10.5), 02422-2092. Open Tue-Sat 10:30am-7pm, Sun 10:30am-5:30pm. www.ardelgallery.com BANGKOK ART & CULTURE CENTER (BACC) ­— The city’s center for contemporary art features regular exhibitions, seminars and art-related shops in its impressive 11-story structure. 939 Rama I Rd, Pathumwan, 02-214-6630-1. BTS National Stadium. Open Tue-Sun 10am-9pm. www.bacc.or.th YM16 GOSSIP GALLERY — ­ This multifaceted space showcases contemporary pieces from both local and international artists. 3/F, Silom Galleria, 919/1 Silom Soi 19, 02-237-5568. BTS Surasak. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www. gossipgallerybkk72.com XI10 H GALLERY ­— Set in a beautiful late 19th century building, H Gallery offers a program of exhibitions representing emerging contemporary Asian artists. 201, Sathorn Soi 12, 081-3104428. BTS Surasak. Open Wed-Mon 10am6pm. www.hgallerybkk.com XH11

KATHMANDU PHOTO GALLERY

NATIONAL GALLERY ­— Housing both traditional and contemporary Thai art, the gallery displays works by Thai artists from the 17th century onwards. It’s showing its age but still features some interesting shows. 4 Chao Fah Rd, 02-2812224, 02-282-2639- 40. Open Wed-Sun 9am4pm. www.national-gallery.go.th WQ27 NOSPACE GALLERY ­— This avante garde art space on the nightlife strip of RCA offers challenging exhibitions and regular live music events. 21/108 Block D, Royal City Avenue (RCA), 02-6414040. Open Mon-Tue 11am-7pm; Wed-Sun 11-1am. www.nospacebkk.com

THE QUEEN’S GALLERY — The focus of this gallery is often on royal and religious themes.

101 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd., 02-2815360/1. Open Thu-Tue 10am-7pm. www. queengallery.org WS27 Silom galleria — This large mall hosts a range of modern Asian art under one roof. Highlight galleries include: the large Thai-focused Number 1 Gallery; Tang Contemporary Art, which covers modern Chinese art; and, Thavibu Gallery which features works by Thai, Vietnamese and Burmese artists. 919/1 Silom Soi 19, 02-2665454. BTS Surasak. The mall is open daily 10am-8pm, though some galleries have different opening times. XI10 SERINDIA GALLERY — Run by a publishing company, this gallery focuses on the art and culture of Asia, specifically the Himalayan region. OP Garden, Unit 3101-3201, 4-6 Soi Charoen Krung 36, 02-238-6410. Open TueSun 11am-8pm. www.serindiagallery.com XJ10 SOMBAT PERMPOON GALLERY — More of a shop than a gallery, this space stocks more than 10,000 fine and contemporary Thai art works. 12 Sukhumvit Soi 1, 02-254-6040. Open daily 9am8pm. www.sombatpermpoongallery.com XL21 THAILAND CREATIVE & DESIGN CENTER (TCDC)­— Home to a big art library, and host to temporary exhibitions on art, design and fashion specifically viewed from a creative and commercial standpoint. 6/F, The Emporium, 622 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-664-8488. BTS Phrom Phong. Open Tue-Sun 10.30am-9pm. www. tcdc.or.th ZC4

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Art+Culture V64 — More than 60 artists from at Chatuchak Weekend Market teamed up to transform a three-acre space into a large art center, which features studios, a gallery, an art academy, shop and restaurant. 143/19 Chaengwattana Soi 1 Yak 6, Bhangkhen. Open daily 9am-6pm. www. v64artstudio.com WHITESPACE GALLERY — Founded by an American architect and Thai artist Maitree Siriboon, the narrow space at this design studio provides a platform for the works of emerging artists. 2/F, Lido Bldg, 260 Siam Square Soi 3, 02252-2900. BTS Siam. Open Tue-Fri 1pm-7pm, Sat-Sun 11:30am-8pm. www.whitesp-cegallery. com YM16

attractions funarium — This giant indoor soft play area is a great option for those parents looking for somewhere safe for the kids to blow off steam.

Offering painting, bike riding, roller blading and cooking as well as regular shows and two large play areas, there’s plenty for the kids to do. 111/1 Sukhumvit 26, 02-665-6555. www.funarium. co.th. Open daily Mon-Thu 9am-7pm, Fri-Sun & Public Holidays 8:30am-8:30pm. B180-300 for kids and B90 for adults for three hours.

Grand palace — One of the best known and most stunning landmarks in the city, the compound is home to a collection of royal palaces, which blend European and Thai architecture. Here you’ll also find Wat Phra Kaeo (see below). Na Phra Lan Rd. Open daily 8:30am3:30pm. Free tours in English available at 10am, 10:30am, 1:30pm and 2pm. B400. Maharaj Pier.

WQ25

siam ocean world — Southeast Asia’s largest aquarium features more than 30,000 marine creatures and 400 aquatic species. Highlights include the underwater tunnel, penguin enclosure and the glass bottom boat tour. Basement, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd.,02-687-2000. BTS Siam.

Open daily 10am-10pm. B900 for adults, B700 for children. YM17 rattanakosin exhibition hall— Also known as Nitas Rattanakosin, this exhibition center traces the history of Bangkok from the late 18th century to the present day. Don’t miss the stunning view from the rooftop. Ratchadamnoen Rd., 02-621-004. Open Tue-Fri 11am-8pm, SatSun 10am-8pm. B100. WS26 Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn) — One of the city’s best known landmarks is home to the 76-meter-tall prang (Khmer-style tower), decorated by millions of tiny seashells and Chinese porcelain. Arun means “morning” and the temple is best viewed at dawn or sunset from the opposite bank. Arun Amarin Rd. Wat Arun Pier. WP22 Wat traimit Wittayaram — Home to the world’s largest golden Buddha image, this white marble temple also houses the Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Center. Near Odeon Circle, Soi Charoen Krung 37. Open Tue-Sun 8am-5pm.

Wat phra kaeo (Temple of the Emerald Buddha) — Situated in the compound of the Grand Palace, this important religious site is home to Thailand’s most revered religious icon: the Emerald Buddha, carved from solid jade. You

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don’t miss the exquisite mural paintings on the walls surrounding the compound. Na Phra Lan Rd. Open daily 8:30am-3:30pm. B400. Maharaj Pier. WQ25

MUSEUMS JIM THOMPSON HOUSE — The former home of CIA agent and savior of Thai silk, Jim Thompson, is a beautifully preserved complex of six traditional Thai-style houses from all over the country containing his art and antique collection of sculptures, paintings and porcelain. There is also an exhibition space, restaurant and shop. 6/1 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Rd., 02-216-7368. BTS National Stadium. Open daily 9am-5pm.B100 for adults, B50 for students and children. www. jimthompsonhouse.com YM15 KAMTHIENG HOUSE ­— This 200-year-old Northern Thai Lanna-style wooden house contains a collection of traditional agricultural tools and sits in the grounds of the Siam Society, which also holds regular lectures, seminars and workshops. Siam Society, 131 Sukhumvit Soi 21 (Asoke), 02-661-6470. BTS Asoke. Open TueSat. 9am-5pm. B100 for adults, B50 for children. www.siamsociety.org ZB3 MUSEUM SIAM ­— The old Ministry of Commerce is now an innovative, technology-driven museum that takes you on a journey through the history of Siam via an array of multimedia presentations and interactive panels. 4 Sanamchai Rd., 02-2252777. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm.B300. www. museumsiam.com WQ23

New>

Museum of Contemporary Art—MOCA

Open to the public last month, the Museum of Contemporary Art is the most impressive permanent collection of modern Thai art in the capital, and is funded by a telecom tycoon Boonchai Bencharongkakul. Highlights included celebrated artists Thawan Duchanee, Chalermchai Kositpipat and Chakaphan Posayakrit. Open Tue-Sun 10-5:30pm. Entry fee B180. 499/50 Viphavadee Rangsit Rd., Lat Yao, Chatuchak, 02-953-1005/-7. www. mocabangkok.com

NATIONAL MUSEUM — Formerly the “second king’s” palace, this gorgeous property houses some of the most extraordinary architecture, art and antiques in the country. Don’t miss the restored courtyards with their fragrant gardens. Na Phrathat Rd., 02-215-8173. Open Wed-Sun 9am-4pm. Admission: B50. www. nationalmuseums.finearts.go.th WQ27 ROYAL BARGE MUSEUM — Eight of the more than 50 boats that make up the royal barge processions are displayed here. The must-see is the Suphannahong, or Golden Swan, with its huge, golden figurehead prow. Pinklao Bridge Pier, Thonburi, 02-424-0004. Open daily 9am5pm.B30. WP27 SUAN PAKKAD PALACE — This former royal household once belonged to their Royal Highnesses Prince and Princess Chumbhot of Nagara Svarga. Its eight Thai-style houses showcase sculptures, furniture and traditional instruments from the Rama V period. 02-354 Sri Ayudhya Rd., 02-246-1775/6 ext 229. BTS Phaya Thai. Open daily 9am-4pm. B100. www. suanpakkad.com VIMANMEK PALACE — With 12 separate museums in the compound, you could easily spend the day here. The site houses the royal museums of photography, clocks, textiles and silk, but the gorgeous teak buildings are the real draw. Strict dresscode (see their website for details). Ratchawithi Rd., 02-628-6300/9. Open daily 9:30am-4pm. B100. www. vimanmek.com

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dining BANGKOK

The Local

The Local The name of this new restaurant sums up its concept nicely: chef and co-owner, Can Markawat keeps the focus on authentic local dishes and regional products cooked according to hard-to-find recipes. Sample gang run juan (beef in spicy herbal soup, B240) from the Rama V era, and pla paak nam (seafood in red curry paste, B250), a recipe taken from Siam’s first cookbook, Mae Krua Hua Pa. These and similar dishes are served in a beautiful hundred-year-old house whose individual rooms take their inspiration from different Thai places and objects. If you want to learn more, the owner runs cooking lessons every Wednesday. 32-32/1 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-664-3360-1. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-11:30pm

DOWNTOWN Boqueria — French/Italian. $$$$ This venue focuses on classic dishes with a Mediterranean leaning. G/F, CRC Tower, All Season Place, 87/2 Witthayu Rd., 02-685-3930/1. BTS Phloen Chit.

Open daily 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-10:30pm. YN21 celadon — Thai. $$$$ Surrounded by lotus ponds, Celadon’s Thai pavilion contains elegant candlelit interiors that help accentuate the refined set menus, such as the seven-course Bai Horapa set.

13/3 South Sathorn Rd., 02-344-8888. Open daily noon-3pm, 6:30-11pm. www.sukhothai.com.

Drinking Tea, Eating rice — Japanese. $$$$ Stylishly simple in design, this restaurant allows the food to take center stage. Choose from top-quality sushi, sashimi, teppanyaki and kaiseki options, and wash it down with their extensive sake collection. 3/F, The Conrad Hotel, 87 Witthayu Rd., 02-690-9999. BTS Phloen Chit.

Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-11pm. YN21 D’Sens — French. $$$$ The French-imported eatery by the Michelin-starred Pourcel brothers has all the oomph one might expect. The dimly-lit dining room is ultra-chic, and the food is bold and exciting. 22/F, Dusit Thani Hotel, 946 Rama 4 Rd., 02-200-9000 ext. 2499. BTS Sala Daeng. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10pm. XF10

Dine in the Dark — International. $$$ Choose between meat, seafood or vegetarian—no other details—and then step into complete darkness where visually-impaired staff serve as your personal guides and waiters. The three-course set menu is B750-B850 with 10% of profits donated to foundations for the visually-impaired. 2/F, The Ascott Sathorn, 02-676-6676. Open daily 7:3011:30pm. BTS Chong Nonsi. XH13

Erawan tea room ­— Thai. $$$$ With a classy oriental décor, five-star service and a fine tea selection, Erawan Tea Room also impresses with its authentic Thai dishes and monthly-themed menus. 2/F, Erawan Bangkok, Ploenchit Rd., 02254-1234. Open daily 10am-10pm. YN18

Price guide $ $$ $$$ $$$$

Under B500 B500-900 B9,000-1,500 B1,500 and up

Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course, dessert, charges and tax.

Dine In the Dark

Eat Me — International. $$$$ The décor is a cool yet cozy mélange of industrial, natural and artistic.

The kitchen pulls off original combinations, and the cocktails are perfection. 1/6 Phiphat Soi 2, Convent Rd., 02-238-0931. BTS Sala Daeng.

Open daily 3pm-1am. XG11

Area guide Downtown covers the Silom, Sathorn and Siam neighborhoods Lower Sukhumvit covers the area from BTS Chit Lom to Sukhumvit Soi 19 Upper Sukhumvit covers the area from BTS Asoke to Sukhumvit Soi 53

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dining Gianni Ristorante — Italian. $$$$ “Gianni’s,” as it’s referred to by most, has earned its following with consistently outstanding food, an elegant atmosphere and smooth service. 34/1 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd., 02-652-2922. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily noon-2:30pm, 6-10pm. YM20 Gaggan ­— Indian. $$$$ After a brief stint at the research facility of El Bulli, Chef Gaggan Anand developed this exciting menu interpreting regional Indian dishes with solid, traditional flavors and wow-worthy techniques. 68/1 Soi Langsuan, 02652-1700. BTS Chit Lom. 6pm-midnight. YO19

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InterContinental Hotel, 973 Ploenchit Rd., 02656-0444. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 11:30am3pm, 6:30-10:45pm. YM19 Jim Thompson Bar & Restaurant — Thai. $$$ Located in the former home of Siamese silk expert Jim Thompson, the open-air restaurant by a small lotus pond and its air-con dining room have been serving up authentic Thai food and simple Western dishes for years. 6/1 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Road, 02-612-3601. www.jimthompson. com. Open daily 9am-5pm, 7-11pm. YM15 La Monita Taqueria ­— Mexican. $$ Handsdown the best place for a quesadilla or fish taco.

The décor and service aren’t much, but you won’t care after your third Reposado Margarita.

Mahatun Plaza, 888/26 Phloenchit Rd., 02-6509581. BTS Phloen Chit. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am10pm. YM21 Medici — Italian. $$$$ Tuscan-born chef Francesco Lenzi whips up his hometown’s specialties surrounded by a neo-industrial interior that is reminiscent of 1910 Chicago. Hotel Muse, 55/555 Langsuan Rd., 02-630-4006. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm. 6pm-midnight. YN19

Gaggan

Grossi TrattoriA ­— Italian. $$$$ Backed

by Australian celeb-chef Guy Grossi, this is no hotel restaurant—thanks to its bistro vibe, soaring ceilings and rustic, earthy cuisine. G/F,

Nahm — Thai. $$$$ Former holder of a Michelin star, David Thompson’s Nahm serves a fiery, multi-course set menu, which offers plenty of tasty and authentic choices. Metropolitan, 27 South Sathorn Rd., 02-625-3333. Open daily noon-2pm, 7-11pm. XG13

dimsum at yaowarat

Streetwise>

Yaowarat

Due to a large immigrant population, Chinese culture has permeated Thailand in many ways, with cuisine being one of our favorites. The best place to enjoy Chinese and Thai-Chinese food in Bangkok is, of course, in Chinatown, better known locally as Yaowarat. It’s also the name of the major road running through this commercial hub, famous for its gold trade in particular. But when night falls, the entire street becomes a haven for foodies, whether it’s for the gourmet Chinese restaurants or the lines of Thai-Chinese street food stalls offering so many choices you won’t even know where to start.

Here are some pointers. For typical Chinese restaurants, hop onto Padsai Road where you’ll find old favorites like Yim Yim (02-224-2205), New Kwang Meng (02-224-2201) and Tang Jai Yoo (02224-2167). For seafood, look out for two outdoor eateries facing each other at the intersection of Soi Texas, one with waiters wearing red and one with waiters wearing green: both are good and cheap.

For desserts, tao tueng (Chinese-style sweets with longan juice and ice, opposite White Orchid Hotel) remains our favorite way to finish a taste trek in Yaowarat. From MRT Hua Lamphoong station, you can hop in a taxi (5 mins) or walk (15 mins) to Yaowarat Road. Most restaurants open daily from around 11am to 10pm but street stalls usual open from 5pm until around 1am.

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dining Niu’s — Italian. $$$$ Muted tones, crisp white tablecloths and large windows let the inventive and delicious Italian food take center stage. Niu’s also has an extensive wine list and top-name jazz acts downstairs. Baan Silom, 661 Silom Rd., 02266-5333. Open daily 5pm-1am. XI10

Taling Pling—Thai. $$-$$$ This old favorite sees Bangkokians rub shoulders with tourists to enjoy classic Thai dishes and some lesser known options in a charming old house. 60 Soi Pan, Silom Rd., 02-234-4872. BTS Chong Nonsi.

Open daily 11am-10pm. XI11

Reflexions — French. $$$$ Elegant but edgy, with its raw black-and-white photographs of Bangkok, Reflexions is authentic French food without the stuffiness. Chef Thibault Chiumenti cooks with an eye for tradition and bold flavors. 3/F, Plaza Athénée, 61 Witthayu Rd., 02-650-8800. BTS Phloen Chit. Open Tue-Sat 6-11pm. YN21

Zuma — Japanese. $$$$ Their generous salads mix avocado and fresh sushi. The bar is made from a single, monumental slab of stone and the garden is air conditioned. G/F, St. Regis Hotel, 159 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-636-0002. Open Mon-Sat noon-3pm, 6pm-10:30pm. YN18

Ruen Urai — Thai. $$-$$$ Set in an old Thai house, decorated in a blend of contemporary furniture and rare Thai crafts, it offers a polished menu of solid recipes. Rose Hotel, 188, Surawong Rd., 02266-8268/-72. Open daily noon-11pm. XF8

11 Gallery — Thai. $-$$ Set in a charming old wooden home down a bustling little soi, this popular spot serves up traditional Thai dishes in quaint tiffin boxes. 1/34, Sukhumvit Soi 11, opposite Ambassador Hotel, 02-651-2672. BTS Nana. Open daily 10-1am. ZB1 Kuppa — International. $$$ Best-known as a lunch venue, Kuppa’s reliable menu of pastas, salads, desserts and great coffee has changed little over the years. Throw in comfy couches and floor-toceiling windows, and you’ve got one chill spot. 39 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02-663-0495, 02-663-8806.

Open daily 10am-10:30pm. ZD3 Ma du zi Restaurant by Yuyai ­— Japanese. $$$ With a stint at a Joel Robuchon restaurant in Tokyo, Japanese Chef Yuya Okuda’s food is very recognizably French, only with very light, very subtle exotic touches. Maduzi Hotel, 9/1 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02-615-6400. MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 11am-2pm, 6-10pm. ZD3

Shintaro — ­ Japanese. $$$ Located in a corner of the high-end hotel, this cozy restaurant draws the glam crowd. The food is equally trendy, with dishes like sushi-pizza and California rolls.

G/F, Four Seasons Bangkok, 155 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-251-6127. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5-10:30pm. YN18 Sra bua — Thai. $$$$ The sister of Michelinstarred Kiin Kiin in Copenhagen offers up Thai food with a contemporary, almost molecular, twist in a soaring palace dotted with rice fields. Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok, 991/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02162-9000. BTS Siam. Open daily noon-11pm. YL17

Lower Sukhumvit

ROSAbieng — Thai. $-$$ This two-story wooden house-turned-restaurant is a great place for those seeking an introduction to Thai food, thanks to its broad menu of properly executed dishes. 3 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-253-5868. BTS Nana. Open Mon-Sat 11am-11pm. ZB1 ZUMA

Seafood Bar — Seafood. $$$ Owned by an oyster importer, this restaurant features 20 types of oysters and a range of perfectly grilled fish dishes cooked with a modern American approach.

Somerset Lake Place, 41 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02663-8863, Open Tue-Sat 6-11pm; Sun noon-3pm, 6-10pm. BTS Asok. ZD3

Upper Sukhumvit Bacco ­— Italian. $$$ This relaxed, slightly rustic eatery packs in the diners nightly, thanks to its extensive menu of authentic regional specialties.

35/1 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-662-4538. BTS Thong lo. Open Mon-Fri 11:30am-3pm, 5:30pmmidnight; Sat-Sun 11:30am-midnight. ZC6

BACCO

NEW >

Café Claire

Set in the luxurious Oriental Residence on Wittayu, right next to the US Embassy’s leafy compound, Café Claire offers an elevated diner concept that works for any time of the day. With its booth seats and bar—this could be your typical American diner except that the materials used are anything but: think black leather, white marble and cream-colored menus with artsy typography. The menu of Western and Thai dishes, has a casual, all-day focus that ranges from crepes and eggs benedict, to salads and more substantial dishes like red curry and wagyu beef cheek with risotto. They also happen to be the first place in Thailand that officially serves the hi-so Singaporean brand TWG Tea with their high tea. But you can always opt to enjoy their classic cocktails and decent wine list with your dinner.

Oriental Residence, 110 Wireless Rd., 02-125-9000. YN20

Bo.Lan ­— Thai. $$$ Chefs Bo and Dylan offer a traditional approach to Thai food, presented in a contemporary style and served in a stylish house-turned-restaurant. Opt for the Bo.lan balance, a degustation menu that changes seasonally. 42 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-260-2962.

Open Tue-Sun, 6:30pm- midnight. ZD5 Curries and More by Baan Kanitha — ­ Thai. $$$-$$$$ Choose from the hip wine bar or the beautiful cream-colored house to enjoy dishes that range from traditional favorites to darling fusion offerings. 31 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-259-8530/-5. BTS Thonglor. Open daily 11am-11pm. ZC6

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Indus — ­ Indian. $$$ An ambient spot with a beautiful backyard, the kitchen also does a good job serving up much lighter versions of the usual north indian favorites like biriyani, kebabs and tikkas. 71 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-258-4900, 02-661-5279. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:3010:30pm. ZE5 ISao ­— Japanese. $$$-$$$$ Despite the standard izakaya facade, Isao offers something different— Japanese cuisine with distinctly American twists, thanks to the chef’s apprenticeship at the Green Tea sushi bar in Chicago. 5 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-258-0645/6. Open Mon-Fri 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-10pm, Sat-Sun 11am-10pm. ZC4

NEW >

Near Equal

ISAO

This long term favorite has now moved to a new and slightly easier to find location, half way down a beautifully quiet and leafy street, a short taxi ride from BTS Phrom Phong and on the same street as the new Rainhill community mall. Cross the small bridge with a moat filled with Koi to discover a delightful two-storey house. Upstairs the wood floors, antique pieces and colored screens make for a charming spot to enjoy well-presented and well-balanced Thai dishes; and when you’re finished you can head downstairs to browse the beautiful selection of Thai furniture, handicrafts and knick knacks on sale.

22/2 Sukhumvit Soi 47, 02-258-1565 ZC5

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dining THONGLOR/ EKKAMAI 4 Garcons — French. $$$ Cooked by a Thai doctor, this classic French fare is served in a warm and elegant atmosphere. 1/F, Oakwood Residence, 113 Thonglor Soi 13, 02-713-9547.

Open daily 11:30am-10:30pm. ZB6 Bonjour — French. $$$$ Fine French dishes are served in a bourgeois villa that boasts velvet lounge chairs and a small tropical garden. 1217/2 Sukhumvit Soi 59, 02-714-2112. BTS Thonglor.

Open daily 6pm-1am. ZC6 Fuzio — Italian. $$$$ Classic Italian recipes are mixed with just enough modern touches to suit the locale and clientele. A rooftop location and contemporary décor make for a special experience. 6/F, Mini Showroom, 99/99 Ekkamai Soi 7, 02-711-6999. Open daily 11:30am2:30pm, 6-10:30pm. ZB7

Water Library — International. $$$$ A restaurant that serves a maximum of ten diners per night, with a 12-course set menu using the very best ingredients that starts at 7.30pm on the dot prepared in front of you by an army of chefs. It’s very sophisticated, very sexy and yes, it’s expensive, but also very memorable. Grass, Thonglor 12, Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-714-9292/-3.

Open Mon-Sat 6pm-1am. ZB64 Xuan mai — Vietnamese. $$$ Probably the best Vietnamese restaurant in Bangkok, this is where former beauty queen-then-FBI agent chef Meyung Robson sources the best ingredients, often direct from Vietnam, and cooks them perfectly from traditional recipes. Try the bahn mo thit (Vietnamese sandwich) and cha ca Hanoi (grilled cat fish). 351/3 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-185-2619.

Open Tue-Sun 11am-2:30pm, 6-11pm; Fri-Sat 11:30am-midnight; Sun 11:30am-10pm. ZA6

Riverside the deck ­— Thai/International. $$$ Book in advance for one of the best spots, out on the 2nd floor terrace, and enjoy the amazing view of Wat Arun across the river. The well-executed menu covers Thai and European dishes. 36-38 Soi Pratu Nokyung, Maharat Rd., 02-221-9158. Open Mon-Thu 7am-10pm, Fri-Sun 7am-11pm. WQ23 Fuzio

Harvey — American, International. $$$$ A very popular spot with the town’s movers and shakers the food encompasses modern interpretations of American, French and Italian cuisine. 129 Thonglor Soi 9, 02-712-9911. Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 6-11pm. ZB6 Khun Churn — Thai/Vegetarian. $-$$ This family-run eatery, tucked away in the relatively quiet Bangkok Mediplex, has a classy-yetcasual atmosphere and serves up down-toearth yet delicious meat-free Thai meals. G/F, Bangkok Mediplex Bldg, Sukhumvit Soi 42, 02-713-6599. Open daily 10am-8pm. ZD7

Le Normandie ­— French. $$$$ The Mandarin Oriental’s showcase restaurant has set the standard for service and cuisine for years­­—and the river views aren’t bad either. Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave., 02-6599000. Open Mon-Sat noon-2:30pm; daily 7-10:30pm. XJ11 supatra Riverside ­— Thai. $$$$ Situated on the Thonburi side of the Chaopraya River the view of Wat Arun and the Grand Palace from the terrace of this Thai house is amazing.

There’s regular cultural performances and a range of classic Thai dishes. Free boat transfer from Maharaj Pier. 266 Soi Wat Rakhang, Arunamarin Rd., 02-411-0305. Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 5:30-11pm. ZP26

Phuket town — Thai. $-$$ Phuket Town whips up solidly traditional Southern-style dishes like kanom chine namya poo (rice noodle with crab curry) and pad sataw goong (stir-fried sataw with shrimp) in a bright and quirky setting that has plenty of Sino-Portuguese touches. Corner of Thonglor Soi 6, 02-714-9402. Open daily 10:30am-10:30pm. ZC6 Soul Food Mahanakorn — Thai. $$-$$$ Soul Food dishes out very strong, original signature cocktails, as well as a brief menu of well executed Thai regional dishes. The combo has a heady effect on the hip crowd and the place is packed most nights. 56/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-714-7708. BTS Thonglor. Open daily 6pmmidnight. ZC6 Surface — French. $$$ Their outdoors vibe, thanks to the conservatory style interior and the daybeds set out among their vegetable garden, matches the overall farm-to-table concept of Surface: classic French dishes from produce that they largely grow themselves. 107 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-258-2858/7597. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 6-11pm, Sat-Sun 10am-2pm. ZB6

SUPATRA RIVERSIDE

Dining Hood>

Sukhumvit Soi 11

As well as being party central in Bangkok, thanks to some of Bangkok’s leading clubs, Sukhumvit Soi 11 is also home to an array of tasty food options ranging from Thai to tapas; and the list of places to eat before you hit the dance floor seems to be expanding daily. Here are our top picks of the latest openings: Two houses down from Bed Supperclub, Oskar Bistro (02-255-3377; open daily 6-11pm) is a restaurant with a slightly clubby vibe thanks to the party crowd and live DJ but it also serves up some excellent bistro food from duck parmentier (a kind of shepherd’s pie) to more simple pastas and burgers. Those who crave a beef patty could also check out the quirky Firehouse (02-651-3643; open daily 11:30-3am. www.firehousethailand.com).

As the name suggests it’s decked out in a fiery red and features the owners impressive, and surprisingly quite lovely, firefighting paraphernalia from around the world. It’s fast become a favorite among Bangkok’s dedicated burger afficionados. Meanwhile, further up the street, in fact tucked down a tiny little soi that’s also home to the iconic Cheap Charlie’s Bar, there are two more new eateries. Snapper (02-651-1098; open Tue-Sun 5pm-midnight) touts itself as Bangkok’s first NZ-style fish and chip bar and serves up interesting fish options, like the fleshy and strongly-flavored Tarakihi or the slightly milder Southern King Fish in a simple seafood shack-inspired shophouse.

Finally, a couple of doors down you’ll find Chez Pape (Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-255-2492; open Mon-Sat 4pm-midnight; Sun 11am-10pm) a small, cozy Paris-style brasserie that serves up authentic French classics with a real focus on country-style dishes like jambon a l’os cuit dans son foin (slow cooked ham in hay) and slow roasted lamb stew with garden vegetables. Sukhumvit Soi 11, BTS Nana.

Venice Vaniche ­— Thai. $$$ Sat meters from the Grand Palace, this restuarant offers some great views, a pleasant breezy terrace on the second floor and a large menu of classic Thai dishes. 1/12 Soi Maharaj, Maharaj Rd., 02-2228082. Open daily 11am-midnight. ZP26

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BANGKOK nightlife

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Five Designed by the people behind distinctive Bangkok hang outs like Clouds, Fat Gut’z and Iron Fairies (see listings, below), this corner plot in a high-end community mall has been converted into a gothic castle cum Victorian factory. We’re talking a little Bram Stoker meets the Industrial Revolution: large flickering candles are everywhere, hanging lanterns glide gently up and down on pulleys, while a metal spiral staircase curls up to a mini-mezzanine with semi-circular booths that float out over the space below. It’s not just the atmosphere that draws people in but some killer cocktails, designed by an renowned international mixologist, who combines dramatic presentation with the freshest ingredients. 233 K Village, Sukhumvit

Soi 26. Open 5pm-1am. www.fivebkk. com

Downtown Bed Supperclub — Bangkok’s leading club, with a space-age interior, is divided into two sides— the restaurant, which offers creative food and cutting-edge performances; and the club, where beautiful people dance to everything from house to drum n’ bass. 26 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-651-3537. Open daily 7pm-2am. www. bedsupperclub.com ZA1

The St Regis Bar — With a great New York Mad Men vibe and impressive views, this spot also boasts a daily champagne sabrage and their Thai take on the bloody mary. 12/F, The St. Regis Bangkok, 159 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-207-7777. BTS Ratchadamri. Open daily noon-1am. www.stregis. com. YN18

Riverside

Thonglor Soi 12, 02-714-9832. BTS Thonglor.

Open daily 6pm-2am. ZB6 Iron Fairies — Like no other bar in Bangkok, it actually looks more like a Dickensian factory, thanks to the crumbling brick walls and scattering of ancient, industrial machinery that by day is used to make fairies. Yes, fairies. A great live band and powerful cocktails make this place even more special. 394 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 084-520-2301. BTS Thonglor. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-2am. ZB6

Hyde & Seek — Elevated pub grub, arguably Bangkok’s best cocktail menu and a décor that conjures up both Victorian drawing room gravitas and NYC sophistication—it’s no wonder this place is so popular. Athénée Residence, 65/1 Soi Ruamrudee, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-168-5152-3. BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily 11-1am. YM21

Viva & Aviv — Fitting for its riverside location, this new venue has a rustic-yet-relaxed nauticallyinspired theme. Soak up the river view and enjoy inventive and well-made cocktails and pub grub.

River City Complex, 23 Yota Rd., 02-639-6305.

Open daily 11am-midnight. www.vivaaviv.com

ThongLor/Ekkamai

Mellow — Another popular spot for dining and drinking, Mellow has proved a huge hit with young, well-off locals. They’re attracted by the warm, wood-heavy décor with beams and brick walls, friendly staff, comfort food and delicious cocktails. 1/F, Penny’s Balcony, Thonglor Soi 16, 02-382-0064. Open daily 11-1am. ZA6

Oskar — A comforting menu, a long list of drinks and a great DJ mean this bistro, in the heart of club land, has fast become a popular spot for pre-club drinks and dinner. 24 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-255 3377. Open daily 4pm-2am. ZA1

Clouds — The futuristic vision is certainly striking— from the undulating ceiling, sporting anything from roses to Barbie dolls, to the acrylic seating inset with leaves. Potent cocktails from the laboratory of a bar add to the techno-ecoinspired theme. G/F, Seenspace, 251/1 Thonglor Soi 13, 02-185-2365. Open daily 6pm-2am. ZB6

Wine Republic — They take their vino seriously here, with a wall of bottles and informed staff to talk you through your purchase. The dark spit-and-sawdust interior and breezy outdoor terrace get very busy on weekends. Thonglor Soi 10, Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-714-7599. Open daily 5:30pm-1am. ZA6

Fat Gut’z Saloon — Sitting on the corner of a small lifestyle mall, this hole-in-the-wall reminds us of a New Orleans speakeasy, with its dark panelled walls and matching furniture. A bluesfuelled band, interesting cocktails and fish n’ chips are the house specials. 1/F, Grass Thonglor, 264

WTF — A collaboration between an art curator, a hip hotelier and a photojournalist, WTF is actually a hybrid bar and exhibition space that’s incredibly popular with Bangkok’s creative expats and local hipsters. 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-662-6246.

Open Tue-Sun 6pm-1am. ZC5

Q Bar — The Soi 11 institution continues to deliver a heady mix of bass lines and international DJs. Its large outdoor patio is a great spot to kick back with friends, while the recently renovated downstairs level, featuring a serious dance floor and three bars, is perfect for serious beat addicts. 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-252-3274.

Open daily 8pm-1am. ZA1

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ShopS+Services BANGKOK

PHOTOGRAPHy BY PATTRAYUTH PEANTHAM

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Asiatique

Life on the River It seems Bangkok just can’t get enough of malls to escape the summer heat, but don’t shake your heads yet, this new shopping center is the first to sit on the banks of the Chao Phraya River. Moreover, Asiatique The Riverfront is themed according to the city’s architecture of old, and features a very distinctive atmosphere. Divided into several sections, the Charoenkrung District counts over 1,000 boutiques, the Town Square combines Eastern and Western culture with a variety of eateries, beer gardens and an outdoor activity square, the Factory District is set in a 100 year-old refurbished saw-mill with over 500 fashion stores, and finally the waterfront highlights the unique setting, with international restaurants, wine bars and a panoramic view of the Chao Phraya. The gigantic venue is also home to five stages which will welcome extravagant shows from cabaret girls and the award-winning Joe Louis puppet theater to the famous transgender extravaganza from Calypso Bangkok. To get there, catch the free boat from Sathorn Pier (BTS Saphan Taksin). 2194 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-108-4488.

Downtown Amarin Plaza ­— The mall’s Greco-Roman facade actually hides some unexpected gems.

ID1 on the first floor holds an interesting collection of local designers, while the Thai Craft Market on the third floor is good for souvenirs.

496-502 Ploenchit Rd., 02-650-4704. BTS Chit Lom. www.amarinplaza.com YM18 Central Chidlom ­— The closest thing Bangkok has to Harrod’s, Central Chidlom, first opened in 1973 and remains the Central Group’s flagship department store. It’s packed with leading brands, like Bottega Venetta, DVF, Coach, Paul Smith and Gucci. Don’t miss the impressive Food Hall on the ground floor and the views from the international food court, up on the seventh. 1027 Ploenchit Rd., 02-7937777. BTS Chit Lom. www.central.co.th YM19 CentralWorld ­— Southeast Asia’s largest lifestyle shopping complex is home to seven floors, or 550,000 sq meters, of restaurants, cinemas and stores. It’s a good spot for top brands like Topshop, Gap and Uniqlo, as well as Thai favorites like Singha Life and Disaya.

Ratchaprasong Intersection, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-635-1111. BTS Chit Lom/Siam. www. centralworld.co.th YM18

Erawan Bangkok — ­ This mini-mall might look petite, but its three floors offer some high-end boutiques you can’t find elsewhere, including unique Club 21 stores, like Yohji Yamamoto, Dior Homme and Lanvin. 494 Ploenchit Rd., 02-250-7777. BTS Chit Lom. www.erawanbangkok.com YM18

Lanvin at ERAWAN

Gaysorn ­— Thailand’s leading high-end mall is home to numerous luxury international labels (Louis Vuitton, Dior, Prada, Fendi and Celine) and Thai brands like Sretsis, Disaya, Zenithorial and Panpuri. 999 Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1149.

BTS Chit Lom. www.gaysorn.com YM18

MBK Center — ­ Clothes, sneakers, suitcases, cameras, mobile phones and souvenirs—you can find it all here and all at bargain prices. As a result,­the confusing chaos of MBK is packed with haggling tourists. Be warned: cheap doesn’t always mean good. Still it’s fun and there’s a popular Thai food court on the 6th floor. 444 Phayathai Rd., 02-620-9000. BTS National Stadium. www.mbk-center.co.th YM16 Pantip Plaza ­— A heaven for tech and IT lovers, the rather grungy-looking seven floors are dedicated to gadgets and gizmos. You’ll find countless little stalls selling computers, laptops, mobile phones, printers, mainboards, cameras, electronic appliances and selections of bootleg DVDs. Not all of it is legitimate, but most items are usually a lot cheaper than elsewhere. 604/3 Petchaburi Rd., 02-250-1555. BTS Ratchathewi. www.pantipplaza.com YK17 Platinum Fashion Mall — ­ Platinum is Bangkok’s wholesale fashion shopping center and the biggest source for the city’s street and market stalls. You can find everything fashionrelated from women’s shoes to men’s suits. And don’t worry about having to buy wholesale, as even single items are very cheap. 222 Petchaburi Rd., 02-121-8000. BTS Ratchathewi. www. platinumfashionmall.com YK18

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ShopS+Services Siam Center ­— One of the longest-standing shopping malls in Bangkok, it remains a favorite with teen shoppers, thanks to a recent facelift and the cool, cutting-edge local brands that call it home. Siam on Third (3/F) features established Thai fashion designers, while Mob.F (4/F) lets the new wave showcase their work.

Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000. BTS Siam. www. siamcenter.co.th YM17 Siam Discovery Center ­— The sister mall of Siam Center just celebrated its 10th anniversary with an overhaul, which included the addition of lots of new eateries as well as the opening of an ice-skating rink and a Madame Tussaud’s wax museum. It also remains the place to come for Thai furniture brands. Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000. BTS Siam. www.siamdiscoverycenter.co.th YM16 Siam Paragon ­— With a prime location next to the city’s busiest BTS station, its towering glass façade contains a huge selection of stores, from Hermes and Chanel to street favorites like Mango and Zara, plus Siam Ocean World, Southeast Asia’s biggest aquarium, a bowling alley, a concert venue and a cinema. As well as lots of restaurants, there’s also a food court in the basement.

991 Rama 1 Rd., 02-690-1000. BTS Siam. www.siamparagon.co.th YM17

Elsewhere

MARKETS

Crystal Design Center ­— ­Designer chairs, platinum faucets, leather sofas and a lot more home décor products are the main draw for CDC Phase 1, while Phase 2 is filled with restaurants and bars, cute cafés, fashion boutiques and home décor stores. It’s not the easiest place to get to, though: we recommend a taxi from MRT Lad Phrao. 1420/1 Praditmanutham Rd., Klongchan, 02-101-5999. www.crystaldesigncenter.com

Ratchada Night Market — Apart from vintage cars, motorbikes, bicycles and parts, you’ll find old and new home décor items, secondhand books, fashion apparel, handcrafted products and even some lethal cocktails at the 200-plus stalls. Ratchadapisek Rd. MRT Ladprao. Open Sat, 7pm-1am.

OP Place ­— Situated in a beautiful neoclassicalstyle building close to the river, this gorgeous luxury mall oozes charm from the sweeping wooden staircase to the antique lift. The plushlycarpeted halls are home to a host of high-end boutiques offering unique and rare antiques and artifacts from across South East Asia, hand crafted jewellery, bespoke tailors and fine art.

The Ashwood Gallery that occupies the whole third floor is home to some particularly striking pieces. There’s also a free shuttle service to the neighboring OP Garden, which houses an art gallery, restaurants and high-end boutiques. 30/1 Soi 38, Charoenkrung Rd., 02-266-0186. Open daily 10:30am-7pm. XJ11

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Chatuchak Market — Better known by locals as JJ, Chatuchak is one of the world’s largest weekend markets. More than 15,000 retailers occupy the 27-acre space, which is broken down into 27 sections, roughly categorized by the products on offer. You can literally spend the weekend here amid the rabbit warren of stalls, but if you have limited time, then this is the general breakdown: Books are in Section 1, while Sections 2-4 are home to young fashion designers. Sections 5-6 have vintage clothing, and you’ll find art in Sections 7-9. Sections 10-24 offer a real mix of miscellaneous stuff, while Sections 25-27 are dedicated to crafts and home-decor items.

Corner of Phahonyothin and Kamphaeng Phet Roads. BTS Mo Chit/Saphan Kwai, MRT Kamphaeng Phet. Open Sat-Sun 10am-7pm. www.chatuchak.org

Shopping Walk>

Sukhumvit The Emporium ­— Set in the heart of the city’s upscale residential area (home to Bangkok’s largest Japanese community), The Emporium offers luxury shopping without the crowds, thanks to their tenant portfolio, which includes brands like Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Chanel and Prada, along with Thai favorites like Jaspal, Thann and Jim Thompson. There are also lots of eating options, a cinema and the Thailand Creative Design Center. 622 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-269-1000. BTS Phrom Phong. www.emporiumthailand.com ZC4 Terminal 21 ­— One of Bangkok’s newest shopping complexes boasts an airport terminal-cum-international destinations theme. As you travel through the nine floors you can stop off at the Caribbean, Rome, Paris, Tokyo, London and Istanbul. The lower floors are dedicated to high-street chains, while the higher floors offer a host of intriguing boutiques by Thai designers.

There’s also a food court, restaurants and a cinema. 2-88, Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-1080888. BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit. www. terminal21.co.th ZB3

Siam Square

While the Siam area is best known for its long line of gleaming malls, selling the leading brand names, it also has an edgier side. Just across the street from the luxe fashion boutiques of Siam Paragon lies Siam Square a small block of streets that’s been a hangout favorite for hordes of Bangkok university students since its opening in the 1960s. Slowly undertaking a gentrification it’s still home to funky cutting edge boutiques, cute cafes and hip music spots. Siam Square Soi 2, 3 and 4, in the shadow of IT mall Digital Gateway, are still a center of teen fashion, thanks to a mix of designers like Paa*, Mosstories, Mango Mojito and Poem. Music spots like old favorites DJ Siam and Do Re Me are often packed with teenagers there to buy latest albums and rare items. The newest zone called Siam Vintage (opposite Chula Book Center) sees a collection of fresh local and inter designs from various young enterpreneurs like Onion and ZM Bangkok. BTS Siam

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HEALTH + WELLNESS bangkok Oasis Spa Sukhumvit 51 The renowned rejuvenating spa has just opened a new urban sanctuary close to the central business district. Not that you could tell that you’re in the heart of the city: Oasis Spa Sukhumvit 51 is hidden away in a bohemian house surrounded by a lush tropical garden. The seven private rooms are decked out with oriental details and equipped with Jacuzzi hydrotherapy and herbal steam baths. Get pampered with a 90-minute Northern-Thai-inspired treatment (The Voyage of Golden Lanna, B5,900) or opt for the decadent 60-minute four-hand massage (B2,500) carried out by two therapists. Sukhumvit 51, 88

Sukhumvit Rd., 02-262-2122. Open daily oasis SPa

10am-10pm. www.oasisspa.net ZC5

SPA I.SAWAN — With its Tony Chi design, the i.sawan Residential Spa & Club and its residential cottages and treatment bungalows is one of the most beautiful spas in Bangkok. It also houses a fitness club, tennis and squash courts and a 25-meter pool. 5/F, Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok, 494 Rajdamri Rd., 02-254-1234. Open daily 6am-11pm. www.bangkok.grand.hyatt. com YN18 ELEMIS SPA — The Elemis Spa is a first in SE Asia and only the fourth in the world. Its extravagant setting—the city view from the couples’ room is breathtaking—and the ancient Arabian sauna in their Rassoul Chambers are highlights. 15/F, The St. Regis Bangkok, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-2077777. BTS Ratchadamri. Open daily 10am10pm. www.stregis.com/bangkok YN18

traditional thai massage A major tourist attraction, Wat Po is just as as famous for its massage school as it is for its 46-meter-long Reclining Buddha. Never mind that there’s usually a long wait and little privacy once you’re inside: massage treatments at this traditional Thai massage school never cease to attract those who want the real deal. Wat Po’s history as a center for Thai massage dates back to 1843, when King Rama III commissioned 60 diagrams depicting various massage techniques to be inscribed on the temple’s marble walls. If you feel inspired to learn the art yourself, enroll in the temple’s training classes. Wat Po (Wat Prachetuphon), 2 Sanamchai Rd., Phra Nakhon, 02-225-4771. Open daily 8am-6pm. www. watpomassage.com WQ24

HEALTH LAND — Health Land has built its sizeable reputation on a blend of affordable prices and expert masseuses. There are branches throughout town. 120 North Sathorn Rd. , 02-637-8883. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open daily 9am-11pm. More branches: www.healthlandspa. com XG13 LET’S RELAX — With branches in tourist destinations around Thailand, and a wide variety of packages and trained masseuses, Let’s Relax is a popular day spa. 6/F, Terminal 21, Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-6626935/-37. BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 10am-midnight.

More branches: www.letsrelaxspa.com ZB3 MULBERRY SPA — Set in a 60s-style residential compound, Mulberry Spa offers all the usual selection of treatments amid a classy-yet-cozy ambiance. 132 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-664-1888.

MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 9am-11pm. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.mulberryspa.com ZB3 THE ORIENTAL SPA — As sophisticated as the hotel, The Oriental Spa offers four specialty suites, ten private rooms and a huge variety of treatments, covering everything from Thai to Hawaiian therapies. Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, Oriental Ave, Charoen Krung Rd., 02-659-9000.

Open daily 9am-10pm. www.mandarinoriental. com/bangkok/spa XJ11 PaNPURI ORGANIC SPA — Hidden behind the shelves of high-end beauty store Panpuri are the two small treatment rooms of the high-end spa.

The small-but-beautiful space welcomes you with black stone and gold mosaics and a host of treatments using exclusive organic products.

Lobby Level, Gaysorn, Ploenchit Rd., 02-6561199. Open daily 10-8pm. www.panpuri.com

S MEDICAL SPA — Founded by a renowned local anti-aging physician, the award-winning spa creates beauty from within, with a selection of integrated wellness programs. 2/2 Bhakdi Bldg., Wireless Rd., 02-253-1010. BTS Ploenchit. Open daily 10am-9pm. www.smedspa.com YL20 SPA BOTANICA — Surrounded by the lush gardens of the Sukothai Hotel, Spa Botanica is an urban retreat. Their signature spa treatments span two hours and combine the best of oriental massage options. 13/3 South Sathorn Rd, 02-2344-8900.

Open daily 9am-10pm. www.sukhothai.com XG13

THANN SANCTUARY SPA — THANN Sanctuary offers a variety of treatments based on THANN’s world class spa products within a tranquil space bathed in warm grey and soothing lights. 3/F, Gaysorn, Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1424. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 10-9pm. www.thann.info YM18 TRIA — Tria is not just a spa: this sanctuary, hidden behind Piyavate Hospital, is a rejuvenation center offering integrated programs. As well as more than 50 treatment rooms, there are also hydrotherapy pools, a restaurant and residences for long-term treatments. 998 Ronkhlongsamsen Rd., 02-660-2602. Open Mon-Fri 7-10am. Closes Sat 9pm, Sun 8:30pm. www.triaintegrativewellness.com URBAN RETREAT — Urban Retreat’s branches offer relaxing havens from the city in the middle of town. 31/10 Soi Phromjai, Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-204-2008/9. Open daily 10am-10pm. More branches: www.urbanretreatspa.net

IM18 28 W H E R E T H A I LAND I may 2012

HEALTH AND WELLNESS_MAY12.indd 28

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bangkok Navigate

overview

Lat Phrao ÅÒ´¾ÃŒÒÇ

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Bangkok Overview Key

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Main road

Chatuchak Market

Thailand Cultural Center

BTS (Sukhumvit Line)

Vimanmek Mansion

Yaowarat (China Town)

BTS (Silom Line)

Anantasamakhom Mansion

Central Rail Station (Hua Lamphong)

MRT

Khaosan Road

Lumpini Park

Airport Rail Link (ARL)

Grand Palace / Temple of The Emerald Buddha

Queen Sirikit Nation Convention Center

River/Klong (canal)

Wat Po

Siam Paragon Shopping Center

Pier

Wat Arun

Bangkok Art and Culture Centre

may 2012 I WHER E T H A I L A N D 29

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wracking (and physically-challenging). And, due to the unsavory nature of the canal (klong) water, any picturesque view is blocked by sheets of tarpaulin to prevent splashing. Fares are between B9 and B19, depending on distance and are purchased on board.

AIRPORT LINk—The Airport Rail Link (ARL) is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to get to and from Suvarnabhumi Airport, especially for those travelling light. There are two types of trains: Express Line and City Line. The ARL Express Line runs from Suvarnabhumi to either Phaya Thai (connecting to the BTS) or Makkasan stations (connecting to the MRT, but it’s a long walk to MRT Petchaburi), and takes 15 minutes. The City Line stops at six stations and takes around 30 minutes. THAI Airways passengers boarding the Express Line can check their bags at Makkasan City Terminal. Fares are B15-B45 for City Line and B90 for Express Line. More information at airportraillink.railway.co.th.

from here and stopping off at numerous piers all the way to Nonthaburi. Fares range from B9 to B32 depending on distance. You can also opt for a tourist ticket (B150), which allows one-day unlimited travel and comes with an excellent guide booklet to some of the leading tourist attractions accessible from the river.

BUSES—The bus is a popular (if slow) budgettravel choice in Bangkok. The Bangkok Mass Transit Authority (BMTA) operates an extensive number of routes throughout Bangkok and its nearby provinces. There are two types of buses: non-air-con and air-con. Fares for non-air-con buses are B6.5-7.5 while fares for air-conditioned buses are B10-23, depending on the distance.

Fares are paid to on-board staff, who rarely speak English. Visit www.bmta.co.th for a list of routes and schedules.

CANAL BOATS­—While Bangkok used to be the Venice of the East, there is now only one canal still used as a means of getting around. Klong Saen Saep canal has a ferry service that runs daily from Ban Kapi in the Eastern suburbs to Phu Khao Thong or the Golden Mount in the heart of the Old Town, stopping off at various piers along the way.

Be warned though, the boats don’t wait long at the piers, making getting on and off rather nerve-

TO BANG SUE STATION

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30

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44 4

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TO MO CHIT STATION

6

Soi Sukhumvit 49 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 49

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Soi Sukhumvit 39 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 39

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stations for buses out of town. The Northern Bus Terminal or Mo Chit (02-936-2841/-3) is located a taxi ride from Mo Chit BTS /Kamphaeng Phet MRT and services Northern and Northeastern Thailand as well as some Eastern destinations. The Eastern Bus Terminal (02-391-2504) is located right by BTS Ekamai and has buses departing to

frequent and cheap ferries along the Chao Phraya River are a great way to get a different perspective on the city, as well as a good option for getting to many of the temples and palaces built along the river. The main Sathorn (Central) pier is located by BTS Saphan Taksin with boats heading upstream

8

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EXPRESS RIVER Boats—These fast,

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Memorial Bridge Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊоҹ¾Ø·¸

23

Pattaya, Rayong, Koh Samed and Trat.

24 25 Finally, the 38 Southern Bus Terminal or Sai Tai (02-894-6122) is Tha Phrachan Pier Tha Tien Pier ·‹Ò¾ÃШѹ·Ã ·‹ÒàµÕ¹ located across the river at Thonburi on Borom43 ratchachonnanee Road and services Western (Kanchanaburi) and Southern Thailand, including the islands of Phuket and Samui.

41 9

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Ratchawong Pier ·‹ÒÃҪǧ¤

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TAXIS—Bangkok metered taxis are readily avail4 able and very affordable, with fares starting from Wat Phra Kaeo B35 for the first two kilometers.

Despite their many ÇÑ´¾ÃÐá¡ŒÇ colors, there’s no difference in prices and service.

Some drivers speak limited English, so do get your destination written down in Thai to avoid any miscommunication. Taxis sometimes try to negotiate a Rajapardit price. Make sureWatÇÑ´ÃÒª»ÃÐ´Ô to pay the metered price. Éonly °

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26 27 skytrain/underground— The

28

13 Bangkok Skytrain (BTS) stops at Bangkok’s main Wang Lang Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÇѧËÅѧ districts and gives you a bird’s eye view of the city.

There are two main lines: the Silom Line, which runs from across the river in Wongwian Yai to National Stadium; and the Sukhumvit Line, which runs from Soi Bearing in the eastern part of the city along Sukhumvit before heading up north to the Mo 11 by the Chatuchak Market. Siam is the Chit station interchange station between the two lines.

The underground, or 10 MRT, is one line but has an Phra Athit Pier ·‹Ò¾ÃÐÍÒ·Ô µÂ extensive reach, from Hua Lamphong train station on the outskirts of Chinatown, down through the Wat Chana Songkram ÇÑ´ª¹Ðʧ¤ÃÒÁ main Central Business District before turning

Wat Suthat ÇÑ´ÊØ·Ñȹ

TOURIST INFORMATION 23

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Police Station ʶҹյÓÃǨ

Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) — The Tourism Authority of Thailand is ready to answer all your questions about traveling in Thailand and the leading tourist destinations. The TAT headquarters is on Petchaburi Road (1600 New Petchaburi Road, Makkasan, Ratchathewi, 02-250-5500.

MRT Petchaburi). They have visitor centers at Ratchadamnoen Road (Ratchadamnern Nok Rd., 02-356-0650. Open daily 9am-5pm) and Suvarnabhumi Airport (1/F, near Gate 3, 02-134-4077. Open 24 hours). You can also phone their call center at 1672 or log into www.tourismthailand.org for detailed R information. TheIndiawebsite also has a comprehensive description of the month’s events and festivals, as well as vacation packages, e-newsletters, trip Emporium ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ The Old Siam Plaza ÍÔ¹à´Õ àÍ็Áâ¾àÃÕÂÁ planning tools and downloadable handbooks. ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ´Ô âÍÅ´ ÊÂÒÁ World For emergencies, contact the TouristËŒChina Police 24-hour call center (1155). Ò§ÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ䫹‹Ò àÇÔÅ ´ B u

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Soi Sukhumvit 26 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 26

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of getting 34 around Bangkok, not to mention great photo opportunities. However, there is no guaran4 Ekkamai Bus Terminal tee of beating the infamous traffic and you should ʶҹբ¹Ê‹§àÍ¡ÁÑ agree on a price before getting in. Haggle hard and ATMS—ATMs are very common in Bangkok be wary of any cheap offers if you don’t want an and can be found in most areas of Thailand, often 21 unexpected trip to a tailor or gem store. located outside of 7-Eleven convenience stores.

You should easily be able to use overseas cards to withdraw money.

TO MO CHIT STATION

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Siam

33

Surawong Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃǧÈ

Friday except on public holidays and bank holidays.

4 Banks in39malls open daily, 10am-8pm.

The main 5 are: Bankgok Bank (1333, www.bangkokbank. banks com), Bank of Ayudhya (1572, www.krungsri.com), CIMB Thai (02-626-7777, www.cimbthai.com), 8 30 Kasikorn Bank (02-888-8888, www.kasikornbank.

11 3 com), Kiatnakin Bank (02-680-3333, www.kiatnaParklane ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ 36 ¾Òà ¤àŹ kin.co.th), Thong Lo Krungthai Bank (1551, www.ktb.co.th), ·Í§ËÅ‹ Í Siam Commercial Bank (02-777-7777, www.scb.

5 co.th), Standard Chartered Bank (1595, www.

Major Cineplex Sukhumvit standardchartered.co.th), Thanachart Bank (1770, Ekkamai àÍ¡ÁÑ www.thanachartbank.com), Tisco Bank (www. tisco.co.th), TMB Bank (02-299-1111, www.tmbbank.com), United Overseas Bank (02-285-1555, TO BE ARIN G STAT 19 ION www.uob.co.th).

20

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Soi Sukhumvit 63 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 63

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18 ally from 8:30am to 3:30pm, 44 Monday through

Fares are B15-B40 for both trains. Tickets can Phrom Phong be bought for individual journeys, or you can get ¾ÃŒÍÁ¾§É Rain Hill special one-day tourist passes or tickets that cover ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ àùÎÔÅ a specified number of trips. For more information, 18 go to www.bts.co.th and www.bangkokmetro.co.th.

Note that the BTS and MRT use different ticketing The Benchasiri Emporium Park systems. ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ 25 Soi Sukhumvit 20 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 20

Soi Sukhumvit 14 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 14

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There are interchange stations between the MRT and BTS at Sukhumvit (MRT)/Asoke (BTS) and SilomSukhumvit (MRT)/Sala Daeng (BTS).

28 ÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ·

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Health & Wellness

Nightlife

Amarin Plaza Y M18 Central Chidlom Y M19 CentralWorld Y M18 Erawan Bangkok Y M18 Gaysorn Y M18 MBK Center Y M16 OP Place X J11 Pantip Plaza Y K17 Platinum Fashion Mall Y K18 Siam Center Y M17 Siam Discovery Center Y M16 Siam Paragon Y M17 Terminal 21 Z B3 The Emporium Z C4

1. Bed Z A1 2. Clouds Z B6 3. Hyde & Seek Y M21 4. Fat Gutz Z B6 5. Iron Fairies Z B6 6. Mellow Z A6 7. Oskar Z A1 8. Q Bar Z A1 9. The St Regis Bar Y N18 10. Wine Republic Z A6 11. WTF Z C5 12. Zaks Z A1

1. Body Tune X G10 2. Elemis Spa Y N18 3. Heath Land X G13 4. i.sawan Y N18 5. Let’s Relax Z B3 6. Mulberry Spa Z B3 7. Oasis Spa Z C5 8. Panpuri Organic Spa Y M18 9. S Medical Spa Y L20 10. So SPA X F12 11. Spa Botanica X G13 12. Thann Sanctuary Spa Y M18 13. The Oriental Spa X J11 14. Wat Po W Q24

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Art & Attractions

1. 100 Tonson Gallery Y N20 2. Bangkok Art & Cultural Center (BACC) Y M16 3. Gossip Gallery X I10 4. Grand Palace W Q25 5. H Gallery X H11 6. Jim Thompson Art Center & House Y L15 7. Kamthieng House Z B3 8. Kathmandu Photo Gallery X I11 9. Museum Siam W Q23 10. National Gallery W Q27 11. National Museum W Q27 12. Rattanakosin Exhibition Hall W S26 13. Royal Barge Museum W P27 14. Serindia Gallery X J11 15. Siam Ocean World Y M17 16. Silom Galleria X I10 17. Sombat Permpoon Gallery X L21 18. Thailand Creative and Design Center (TCDC) Z C4 19. The Queen’s Gallery W S27 20. Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn) W P22 21. Wat Phra Kaeo (Temple of the Emerald Buddha) W Q25 22. White Space Gallery Y M16

may 2012 I WHER E thailand 33

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4/27/12 6:50 PM

tea al’s

the g local ket in

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30 Things we LOve about Thailand

6

!9 1 Exploring the rich Lanna culture and amazing ancient temples on the charming streets of Chiang Mai. 2 Discovering Michelin-Starworthy, traditional Thai dishes at David Thompson’s Nahm (G/F, Metropolitan, 02-625-3333).

!0

@o 9 Exploring the home of secret agent and silk tycoon Jim Thompson (6 Soi Kasemsan 2, 02-216-7368), a complex of gorgeous Thai teak pavilions packed with Asian antiques. !0 Discovering the natural delights of

@5 !6 Hunting for antiques along

@4 Taking a coffee-roasting

Charoenkrung Road in Bangkok.

course at the Doi Chaang (www. doichaangcoffee.com) plantation in Chiang Rai.

!7 Sitting ringside for a Thai boxing match at Lumpini Stadium (Rama IV Rd., MRT Lumpini, www. muaythailumpini.com).

Phu Kradueng National Park in Loei.

!8 Savoring a glass of vintage Moët

4 Taking a long tail boat to Freedom Beach, the wonderfully inaccessible (and peaceful) beach in Phuket.

6 Experiencing the eerie beauty of the sacred Wat Rong Khun (aka The White Temple) in Chiang Rai.

7 Drinking a cocktail while admiring Bangkok’s skyline from the 44th floor at Long Table Bar (02-302-2557/-9. www.longtablebangkok.com).

!2 Traversing the famous bridge and

!9 Getting up early to experience the

drinking in the memories along the River Kwai in Kanchanaburi.

floral delights and organized chaos of Pak Klong Talad flower market.

!3 Dining on freshly caught crab

@0 Enjoying tasty street eats from the

and challenging Championship level course at Mission Hills Phuket (www.missionhillsphuket.com).

and mackerel at the beachfront seafood restaurant Platoo (241/44 Ruamchit Rd., 032-451-355. www. platoorestaurant.com) in Hua Hin.

numerous stalls to be found in China Town’s Yaowarat Road.

@8 Walking Phuket Town’s heritage

@1 Escaping the stresses of modern

trail and experiencing the unique Sino-Portuguese architecture.

!4 Offering alms to Thai and Mon

living at one of Bangkok’s meditation centers (Try www.bia.or.th).

@9 Getting up close to a gentle giant

monks in the morning mist of Sangkhlaburi in Kanchanaburi (see page 10).

!5 Getting a glimpse of what 8 Learning how to kite surf on the breezy beach at Hua Hin, try Kite Boarding Asia (www.kiteboardingasia. com).

Koh Samui to explore the 40 stunning tropical islands of Angthong Marine National Park.

& Chandon Champagne at The St. Regis Bar (12/F, The St. Regis Bangkok, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-2077777).

5 Getting lost in the maze of alleys at Chatuchak Weekend Market (BTS Mo Chit/MRT Kamphaeng Phet).

@5 Setting out on a boat trip from

Cuvee de Siam while looking out over the rolling hills at Hua Hin Hills Vineyard (081-701-0222).

3 Browsing for cutting-edge fashions !1 Sipping a glass of Monsoon Valley from the exciting young designers at Mob F (4/F, Siam Center, BTS Siam).

!8

Bangkok used to be like with a klong tour around the old canals (klongs) of Nonthaburi from Saphan Taksin Pier.

@2 Spending a whole day of pampering with a wide selection of treatments at i.Sawan (5/F, Grand Hyatt Erawan, 02-254-1234).

@6 Feasting on a five-star hotel Sunday brunch, with lobster, foie gras and free-flow sparkling wine. Try the one at Trader Vic’s by the river.

@7 Playing 18 holes on the beautiful

with a day visit to the Elephant Nature Foundation (www. elephantnaturefoundation.org) just outside Chiang Mai.

#0 Soaking up the view of the @3 Being the first to see the sunrise from Thailand’s easternmost point at Pha Them in Ubon Ratchathani.

Andaman Sea from your private pool at the luxurious Sri Panwa (www. sripanwa.com) in Phuket.

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