Where® February 2012 by Where Thailand

Thailand

PLUS

F E B rU A R Y 2 0 12 the complete guide to go ®

FOod for the heart

island hopping french invasion River Shopping

Hot romantic dining spots for Valentine’s Day PLUS YOUR ULTIMATE GUIDE TO BANGKOK COVER.indd 1

1/27/12 7:02 PM

P.2 Wood Craft.indd 17

1/31/12 4:27 PM

contents where

ÂŽ

l THAILAND l FEBRUARY 2012 4 Hot Dates Thailand's hottest concerts, shows and events

the guide

Bangkok

18 arts+Culture Bangkok's top galleries and museums and this month's exhibition highlights

20 dining

Features 06 l Romantic Tables

Your A-Z to the best eats in town

24 nightlife A new rooftop bar opens in Sukhumvit

Bangkok's best restaurants for some Valentine's indulgence

25 Health+Wellness

10 l Trang Discoveries

Explore the hidden beauties of this small town by the Andaman Sea

Where to go for a soothing spa

26 SHOPS+Services Stroll along the classic Charoen Krung Road

Escapes

30 Maps Silom, Sukhumvit, Siam and Rattanakosin

12 North + NorthEast 14 eastern Mail 16 Andaman Arrivals

also inside 29 navigate

Managing Editor, Special Projects Nick Measures Editor Top Koaysomboon General Manager James Fuss Managing Editor Gr goire Glachant Sub-editor Ruthie Napier Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Art Director Dechart Sangsawang Designer Panita Thiraphapong Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Sales Manager Tipkritta Chiraporncharas

Senior Sales Associates, Where Napasnun Sawanrachai Senior Sales Associates Tassanee Mahamad, Orajira Sukkasem, Onwara Sittirug, Waranuch Thaneerat, Nattaya Bovornsettanon, Duangruedee Amnuayweroj Senior Tele Sales Associate Orakarn Laohakanjanasiri Marketing Manager Arunee Wilson Marketing Executive Narisa Pokunchanan Marketing Executive, Creative Services Puttipat Teerakawongsakul

Distribution Executive Suda Angsuputiphant Finance Manager Thitiya Mintakhat Assistant Finance Manager Supaporn Bangmung Senior Accountant Kedsaraporn Suinta Accountant Donnapa Umnoursarn On the Cover Issaya Siamese Club

Contributors Melissa Davidson

Shanghai Email: shonline@asia-city. com.cn

Where Hong Kong Publishing Ltd. 301 Hollywood Centre 233 Hollywood Road, Hong Kong Tel: 852-2850-5065 Fax: 852-2543-1880 E-mail: where@asia-city.com.hk

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP | EXECUTIVE Vice President, Operations Donna Kessler Vice President, Operational Innovation Russ Leseberg Director Of Marketing Lynn Basinger Mvp | National Sales Director Of National Sales And Custom Publishing Anthony Karwoski National Sales Managers

Where to find us! Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 22/F, Silom Center 2 Silom Road, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: where@asia-city.co.th

34 30 Things We Love

Where Singapore Publishing Ltd. Block 211 Henderson Rd. #14-03 Henderson Industrial Park, Singapore 159552 Tel: 65-6323-2512 Fax: 65-6323-2779 E-mail: where@asia-city.com.sg

Kuala Lumpur Pacific Tourism Communications Sdn Bhd Lot 2.44-2.45, 2nd Floor, Wisma Cosway, Jalan Raja Chulan, 50200 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia Tel: 60-3-2144-4886 Fax: 60-3-2141-1911

For more information about Where, please email where@asia-city.co.th

Jennifer O'loughlin, Julie Humeas, Monica Weeks, Wanda Garcia-Fetherston National Traffic Coordinator Leleah Robinson Mvp | Cartography And Circulation General Manager, Where Maps Christopher Huber E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris. Com

Morris Comunications Chairman & Ceo William S. Morris Iii President William S. Morris Iv Mvp | Creative Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson Editorial Director, Visitor Guides Don Hoffman Design Director Jane Frey Editorial Director, Custom Publishing Linda Chase

Creative Coordinator Beverley Mandelblatt Mvp | Technology & Manufacturing Director Of Manufacturing Donald Horton E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris. Com

FEB RUARY 2012 I W HERE T H A I L A N D â&#x20AC;&#x192; 3

TOC_3_new.indd 3

1/30/12 6:51 PM

hot dates THAILAND

FEB 2 - MAR 29 La Fete The annual French-Thai cultural event, La Fete, returns to coincide with the celebration of Alliance Francaise de Bangkok’s 100th Anniversary. More than 20 different artistic programs will be on offer during the nine-week period. Highlights include The Bangkok Symphony Orchestra and a choir of 100 as the opening program of the festival, which will be held on Feb 2 at the National Theatre; Nouveau Cirque: Ieto, the contemporary circus performance that combines tightrope walking and acrobatics (Feb 9-10, Sodsai Pantoomkomol Auditorium); Thailand’s leading contemporary dancer Pichet Klunchun in Pichet Klunchun and Myself (Feb 20-21, Sodsai Pantoomkomol Auditorium); and the Fete de la Musique, which will feature one of France’s biggest hip hop outfits IAM, with support from local collective Thaitanium (Feb 25, Museum Siam). See a full lineup and ticket details at www.lafete-bangkok.com

THROUGH FEB 12

Courtesy of Bangkok Symphony Orchestra

Music in the Park To celebrate the cooler weather, the Bangkok Symphony Orchestra heads outdoors to Lumpini Park in the center of town every Sunday afternoon. Bring a picnic and come enjoy their live performances that take in everything from hit musical numbers to timeless classical pieces in this green oasis in the heart of the city. Visit bangkoksymphony.org for a lineup of special guests. Sala Bhirom Bhakdi, Lumpini Park. MRT Lumpini. BTS Sala Daeng. 02-255-6617/8. From 5:30pm.

4 W H E R E T H A I LAND I FEBrUA RY 2012

Hot Dates FEB_12_New.indd 4

1/31/12 3:06 PM

hot dates FEB 4 - 13

Courtesy of The Public Relations Department

Chainat Hoon Fang Bird Fair Every year, the rice-growing province of Chainat, located about three hours north of Bangkok, celebrates the rice harvest by taking the left-over hay from the fields and transforming them into striking and colorful sculptures. The intricately-designed, giant bird-shaped hay stacks they create are known as Hoon Fang, and they form the central attraction of the annual Chainat Hoon Fang Straw Bird Fair. Visitors will also be able to pick up miniature versions of the bird stacks as souvenirs, as well enjoy other activities like handicraft competitions, a light-and-sound show and sales of products under the “One Village. One Product” theme. For more information, contact the Tourism Authority of Thailand, Suphan Buri Office, 03-553 6030, tatsuphan@tat. or.th or go to www.tatnews.org

FEB 5 – 12

Christian Mesiano

PTT Pattaya Women’s Open Tennis Celebrating 21 years as an official Women’s Tennis Association (WTA) tour event, the annual tennis tournament takes place at the Dusit Thani Hotel in Pattaya. With more than US$200,000 worth of prize money, the tournament will attract some of the world’s top tennis stars, including Vera Zvonareva from Russia and Dominika Cibulkova from Slovakia, as well as the best local tennis talent. Dusit Thani Hotel, 240/2 Pattaya Beach Road, Pattaya City. www.pentanglepromotions.com

feb ruary 2012 I WHER E T H A I L A N D 5

Hot Dates FEB_12_New.indd 5

1/31/12 3:06 PM

feature

The Food of Love Romantic spots for every taste and mood

What better excuse than the month of Valentine’s to enjoy a special meal in Bangkok. We make it easy for you by rounding up some of the most alluring eateries in the city. Whether you’re looking for something that’s cozy and intimate or a view to take your partner’s breath away, we’ve got you covered. Gaggan

Cozy hideaways • China House

• Phuket Town

Like it’s lifted straight from Wong Kar Wai’s movie In the Mood for Love, this is one sexy looking place. The tiny aquamarine bar, the deep red and black lacquers, the films playing in the toilets, the shelves of Mariage Frères teas… That’s even before we mention the stylishly presented Chinese food, the shrimps in creamy wasabi sauce are particularly heavenly. If you can, book one of the snug window booths for a deeply intimate dining experience. Mandarin Oriental, 48 Oriental Ave., 02659-9000. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 7-10:30pm.

Step through the bright blue front door and, thanks to antique pieces and the vibrant wall painting of Phuket, you’ll be transported from Thong Lor to the old quarter of the famous southern town. But this charming space is not just about the decor; the food is the real star. Authentic southern Thai dishes, like pad sataw goong (stir-fried sataw with shrimps), which don’t hold back on the spice or flavor. 160/8 Thonglor Soi 6, 02-714-9402. Open daily 10:30am-10:30pm.

Phuket Town

• La Table de Tee A former chef of Michelin-starred restaurant Roussillon in London decided to return home and share his flair for innovation with a French-inspired seven course set menu utilizing the best local ingredients. The intriguing and regularlychanging menu is served up in a tiny shophouse space that has a wonderfully warm glow of sensuality, thanks to the soft lighting and warm purple tones. 69/5 Soi Sala Daeng, Silom Rd., 02-6363220. Open Tue-Sun 6:30-10:30pm.

China House

6 W H E R E T H A I LAND I FEBRUARY 2012

Feature_FEB12_1.indd 6

1/31/12 3:52 PM

feature

Stately Homes • Issaya Siamese Club One of the newest arrivals on the Thai dining scene is ensconced in a gorgeous two-story wooden mansion set in its own leafy garden. Vibrant, bold designs blended with vintage items make a charming backdrop for a classic and creative local menu created by worldrenowned Thai chef Ian Kittichai. Don’t skip the desserts, which use creative, modern techniques to give a delightful twist to traditional Thai sweets. 4 Soi Sri Aksorn, Chue Pleong Rd., 02672-9040-1. Open daily 11:30am-3pm and 6pm-midnight. www.issaya.com

• Gaggan This beautiful white house creates an enchanting spot to enjoy some exciting food. Chef Gaggan is a disciple of molecular gastronomy and has applied cutting-edge cooking techniques in his

inventive, progressive Indian menu. Indulge in the tasting menu and let the chef, and his flirtatious and well-informed staff, take you on a gastronomic journey that, at times, can make the heart soar. 68/1 Soi Lang Suan, 02-652-1700. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm and 6pmmidnight.

• Parata Diamond

ISsaya siamese club

Nestled in a restored old house, you have a choice between the large open-air garden area, with its relaxing daybeds, shishas and short films, or the sensual, allblack lounge, with its long bar. The food has an intriguing focus on New Americanstyle cuisine including dishes like harrisa lamb strudels and five-spice glazed beef short rib. 396 Ekkamai Soi 22, 085-167-6489. Open daily 6:30pm-1am. Parata diamond

FEBRUARY 2012 I WHER E T H A I L A N D 7

Feature_FEB12_1.indd 7

1/31/12 3:52 PM

feature

Long Table

Scenic spots • Long Table

• The Deck

• The Garret

Sharing is caring. The people behind Bed Supperclub take communal dining to posh new levels. Apart from the extremely long, central table, the second most striking element is the view of Bangkok’s skyline. Both sides of the dining room are lined by trademark Bed seating, while screens tuned to video art and the contemporary Thai menu bring the requisite touch of edginess. The adjoining bar/balcony is equally hip, letting you sit by their pool and sip a post-meal cocktail with your loved one while admiring the striking view. Column Building, 48 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02-302-2557-9. Open daily 5pm-2am.

Few restaurants can boast a spectacle quite as inspiring as the brightly-lit Wat Arun that sits directly across the river from The Deck. Book in advance for one of the best spots, out on the outdoor terrace and get here early to watch the sun set behind the temple while embracing the river breeze. The atmosphere is what makes this place, but the well-executed menu of Thai and European dishes will simply add to your levels of ardour. Arun Residence, 36-38 Soi Pratu Nokyung, Maharat Rd., 02-221-9158. Restaurant opens Mon-Thu 7am-10pm, Fri-Sun 7am-11pm. Bar opens Mon-Thu 5pm-midnight, Fri-Sun 5:30pm-1am.

The vibe here is casual but sexy sophistication, thanks to the lounge-y, prohibition-chic furniture and stylish setting out on the rooftop terrace. There’s a great drinks list, especially the cocktails and wines available, which makes it a lively spot on weekends. The crowds also come for the elevated North Americanleaning pub grub, but we say make sure you save space for their decadent desserts. Can’t make up your mind, then go for their dessert platter, which lets you try three sweet treats. Rooftop/F Mini Showroom, Ekkamai Soi 7, 02-711-6999. Open daily 11.30am2.30pm and 6pm-midnight.

8 W H E R E T H A I LAND I FEBRUARY 2012

Feature_FEB12_1.indd 8

1/31/12 3:52 PM

feature

Secret Gardens • 99 Rest Backyard Café

• Indus

• Surface

Set out in the Bangkok suburbs, 99 Rest Backyard Café is actually a beautiful villa surrounded by a landscaped garden that is really magical at night, with the chorus of frogs, crickets and the rustle of the dense foliage in the evening breeze. The menu is a mix of Thai and Western dishes that are given a whimsical touch by the inventive chef. With its charming atmosphere, intriguing menu and impressive drinks list, it’s definitely worth the trek. 99 Rama 9 Soi 41, 02-300-4339. Open Tue-Sun 11am-11pm.

Indus’s alfresco area can certainly help enliven any romance with its Romanesque-fountain, manicured lawns and four poster daybeds that conjure up images of Mughal courts. The food, like the décor is a pleasantly light take on northern Indian favorites like biryani and tandoori chicken, as well as some rarer regional highlights. The prominent bar at Indus also serves up a mean cocktail and this place gets pretty busy as a result. 71 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-661-5279. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-10:30pm.

Backed by the team behind a string of Bangkok hotspots, Surface maintains that standard by already proving to be a popular hangout area. In part, that’s thanks to the lovely outdoors vibe, from the glass dining room, with its white and blue color scheme, to the alfresco space set among the verdant candlelit garden. The chic, blue daybeds and pillows, let you engage in a spot of stargazing with your loved one while sipping one of their potent cocktails. The menu at Surface is classic French comfort food, but we have a particular soft spot for their old-school desserts, like the decadent chocolate fondant or the slightly more unusual white chocolate cheesecake with passion fruit and strawberry. 107 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-258-7597. Open Daily 11:30am-11pm.

99 Rest Backyard Café

Indus

Surface

FEBRUARY 2012 I WHER E T H A I L A N D 9

Feature_FEB12_1.indd 9

1/31/12 3:52 PM

AROUND THAILAND

Coastal Discoveries There’s more to the peaceful Andaman town of Trang than sea cows and underwater weddings. By Top Koaysomboon

A view from Koh Ngai

Trang, a small town next to Krabi has never been at the top of tourists’ must-visit lists, with its biggest claims to fame being the famous annual underwater wedding ceremony and the only place in Thailand where you can see the mysterious dugongs (sea cows) in the wild. But with budget airline AirAsia now adding a direct flight to Trang from Bangkok, we give you three more reasons to go.

Historic Kantang

Phraya RAssada Museum

The center of Trang is a rather non-descript place, especially when compared with the likes of Phuket Town. That’s because it only became the town center 100 years ago. Before 1915, Trang was a bustling trading post, centered around the deep-water port of Kantang, where local goods, like rubberwood and rice were shipped off to international markets—Penang, Malaysia, to be precise. A trip to Kantang gives you the chance to discover this bygone heyday. The history and success of Trang is inextricably linked with one of its former governor’s Phraya Rassadaupradit Mahitsornpakdi, who, between 1900-1913, helped reinvigorate this sleepy town into a

bustling port. It makes sense then to stop by the Phraya Rassada Museum (Open Tue-Sun 8am-4pm), where his photographs, furniture and household items are on display. Speaking nine different languages, he had an innovative approach to running the town, but perhaps his lasting legacy is obtaining Thailand’s very first rubberwood plant from Malaysia, now one of the country’s leading agriculture businesses. Not far from the museum is Kantang Train Station, which is one of the country’s oldest that’s still in service. The wooden station was constructed in 1913 and is entirely made of wood. You can still get a train from Bangkok to Kantang station, which will arrive once a day around midday and takes around 18 hours. Right next door is an old train that’s been transformed into a public library.

Kantang Train STation

10 W H E R E T H A I LAND I february 2012

AROUND THAILAND_FEB12.indd 10

1/27/12 7:06 PM

Around thailand

Dim sum

Chinese Treats

Treasured Islands

While here you really shouldn’t miss a chance to try the local cuisine—especially their traditional breakfast. Residents are particularly known for their love of some muu yang (sweetened grilled pork) in the morning, but, thanks to the strong Chinese culture in the area, locals enjoy a wide selection of Chinese titbits for their first meal of the day. Entering a local eatery means you’ll find a table covered with baskets of Hokkian-style dim sum, buns, pathongko (deep fried dough-stick) and, of course, sweetened grilled pork, all together with hot tea or black coffee. You’ll find this all over town, but be warned: It’s only served from around 6am to no later than 10am. We recommend Lay Trang 2 (Sai Ngam Soi 2, next to Ratchadamnoen Hospital, 075-217-700. Open daily 6am2pm, 5-10pm) and Nak Rong (Plearn Pitak Rd., 087-278-5212. Open TueSun 5:30am-noon) for dim sum lovers, while Phong O-cha (Huay Yod Rd., near Thamarin Thana Hotel, 075-219-918) is probably the most famous spot to enjoy the sweetened pork. Still, we asked the locals and they also suggested a visit to the fresh market (Talad Mueng Trang, Ratdumnern Rd. Open daily 5am-noon) for the best range of choice and taste.

Like other provinces sitting along the Andaman coastline, Trang is home to beautiful islands, sandy beaches and crystal-clear seas. But unlike the more famous Phuket and Krabi, Trang is blessed by its off-the-beaten-track status, which means you can still find empty beaches free of sun loungers and the roar of jetskis. Most of the islands in Trang are contained within the national park, which also helps ensure their unspoiled charms. Among the collection of islands, Koh Kradan is probably the best-known and most beautiful island in the province. Blessed with large, powdery white beaches, emerald-colored water and shallowwater corals, it’s also limited to just three places to stay, making it ideal for a Robinson Crusoe-style break. Nearby is the larger Koh Mook, which, as well as the prerequisite sandy beaches and clear water, is home to the Emerald Cave. Hidden away on the northwest side of the island behind steep, rocky cliffs is a tranquil lagoon, where, if you believe the stories, pirates used to hide their treasure. You can only access the lagoon by swimming through a cave hidden underneath the cliff. When the sun shines upon the water, the bright green color of the sea reflects

lagoon inside the emerald cave

back onto the walls’ of the cave turning the rocks a beautiful emerald green. There are plenty of other small islands within the park, like Koh Ma and Koh Chuek, which are good for snorkeling, while there are a couple of resorts on Koh Ngai, if you want to stay overnight. These islands sit on the northern end of the park and can be reached by a 30-minute speedboat ride from Pak Meng Pier. The easiest way to visit all the islands listed here is to buy a one-day trip from one of the tour operators at the pier, with rates costing about B700-900 per day/per person (try www.triptrang.com). Located further south is Libong Island, home to dugongs and good scuba diving spots, including Koh Lao Liang and Koh Petra. There is a B200 entrance fee to the park. Trust us, it’s a very small price to pay for a little slice of paradise.

Getting There AirAsia (www.airasia.com) has started flying a daily, direct flight from Bangkok to Trang since last month. The plane leaves Bangkok at 9.40am and takes around 1.20 hours. The promotional rates start from B990 per trip. Another option is Nok Air (www. nokair.com), which flies twice a day.

februarY 2012 I WHERE TH A I L A N D 11

AROUND THAILAND_FEB12.indd 11

1/27/12 7:06 PM

North+ Northeast

ESCAPES

New hotels, special events and great promos from Chiang Mai and beyond

Farang Ses at Mandarin Oriental Dara Dhevi

Y Silk Story

Prae wa Silk

The silk from the Isaan (northeastern) region of Thailand has been respected for centuries, thanks to their unique techniques and their vibrant colors and patterns. Celebrating this tradition, this February sees Kalasin province’s largest cultural event, and one of Isaan’s largest annual silk festivals. The Kalasin Prae Wa Silk Festival will feature exhibitions, contests and, of course, plenty of opportunities to buy authentic handmade Prae Wa silk products at more affordable prices than can be found in Bangkok. Rim Pao Hotel during Feb 26-Mar 7. More information at 043-244-498/9, tatkhkn@tat.or.th.

Y Je t’aime

To celebrate Valentine’s Day, Chef Dominique of the French restaurant Farang Ses at the Mandarin Oriental Dara Dhevi in Chiang Mai will be preparing a special five-course set menu that combines authentic French gastronomic techniques and fine ingredients. Amid the opulent Northern Thai-inspired surroundings, couples will enjoy world-class dishes like pigeon consommé infused with American ginseng and braised wagyu beef served with braised laitue cannelloni. The dinner ends with a love apple, a dessert of warm chocolate cake and a chocolate heart treat. The Valentine’s Day set is B4,400, including two glasses of sparkling rose wine, and is served on Feb 14 only. Reservations are recommended. Mandarin Oriental Dara Dhevi, 51/4 Chiang Mai-Sankampaeng Rd., Muang, Chiang Mai, 053-888-940. www. mandarinoriental.com

Mandarin Oriental Dara Dhevi

12 W H E R E T H A I LAND I FEBRUARY 2012

NORTH_new.indd 12

1/30/12 7:00 PM

chomphu phuka

balloon flight at Kirimaya

Y Cultural Celebration

Marking its 750th anniversary this year, Chiang Rai, Thailand’s northern-most province, is dedicating the whole of 2012 to a host of celebratory festivities. For example, February will see the World Colors @ Chiang Rai music festival, which will be held at The Circle of Culture near the Kok River in Chiang Rai town between Feb 23-26. As a representation of the diversity of cultures found in the province, the free event will be inviting musicians from all over the world to come and perform. There’s more information and a lineup at www.crworldcolors.com. If you are visiting the area, make sure to see some of Chiang Rai’s prestigious landmarks, like Wat Rong Khun, Baandum Museum and the Mae Fah Luang Cultural Park. More information about Chiang Rai tourism at www.tourismthailand.org

Baandum museum

Y Pretty in Pink

With perfect romantic timing, February just happens to be the month that you can view the indigenous pink Chomphu Phuka blossoms at Doi Phuka National Park in Nan Province. Originally found in Southern China and Northern Vietnam, the blooms have all but disappeared due to the destruction of their natural habitat. While the Department of National Parks has been trying to breed the flowers at other locations, this original site is still the best place to see the blossoms. Like Japanese cherry blossoms, exactly when the flowers will appear is hard to predict, so you might want to check with the park before your visit. The blossoms should last about a month. Doi Phuka National Park, Pua, Nan, 054-701-111, 054-731-362.

Y Love is in the Air

Take your love to new heights by taking to the skies this Valentine’s Day. Sister properties the Kirimaya Golf Resort and Spa and Muthi Maya Forest Pool Villa in Khaoyai, Nakhon Ratchasima, are teaming up to introduce a special Valentine’s Day Hot Air Balloon Experience. The package includes a twonight stay with breakfast at either resort, a 45-60-minute balloon flight, followed by sparkling wine and a choice between a 90-minute spa treatment or a dinner for two. Rates are from B28,500 for Kirimaya and B35,000 for Muthi Maya. Make sure your loved one isn’t acrophobic first, though. Available through Feb 29. Khaoyai, Nakhon Ratchasima, 044426-000. www.kirimaya.com

FEBRUARY 2012 I WHERE T H A I L A N D 13

NORTH_new.indd 13

1/30/12 7:00 PM

Le Meridien

ESCAPES

Eastern Mail The latest travel-related news around the Gulf of Thailand

Y Vintage Vogue

on Feb 9-10, a one-man-show Space by Nose2Nose from the UK on Feb 11 and, our personal pick, a Franco-Thai contemporary performance featuring Thailand’s leading dancer Pichet Klunchun, along with Jérôme Bel, entitled Pichet Klunchun and Myself, on Feb 25. Tickets are B500-900; reservations at 032-827-814 to 815.

We must admit to having a soft spot for the traditional touch, which is probably why we fell in love with the eclectic ambiance of Chinese-village-inspired resort Le Meridien Koh Samui Resort & Spa. And now, with their “Romance Escape Package,” we have an excuse to return to Lamai Beach. It features a twonight stay with breakfast, a 60-minute Thai massage at Le Spa, and one set dinner at Latest Recipe. Rates, available only this month, are from B8,500 with double SPG points for Starwood Preferred Guest members. But if you’ve already booked your villa in Samui, then you can always swing by for their Its Land+Sea Night every Friday (B1,700/person). The package gets you unlimited meat, seafood, salads and cocktails together with a charming setting overlooking the sea.

Vic Hua Hin, 62/70 Soi Moobaan Huana, Hua Hin. 038-827-814. www.vichuahin.com

Lamai Beach, 077-960-888, www.lemeridien. com/kohsamui

fringe Festival

Y A Fringe Revival Following up on their impressive first run last year, the Fringe Festival returns to the Vic Hua Hin with a lineup of artists and stage performances from all over the world. The program runs through Feb 25, with highlights including contemporary theater from Taste of Curry by B-Floor from Thailand on Feb 4, the circus-cumacrobatic performance Ieto from France

14 W H E R E T H A I LAND I february 2012

Eastern_new.indd 14

1/30/12 7:03 PM

ESCAPES Y Love Beach

Stylish beachfront hotel Let’s Sea Alfresco Resort welcomes lovers to relax in their delightfully minimal suites with its “1 for you and the 1 you love” deal through Feb 14. The package features a two-night stay with breakfast and one candlelit dinner for two for B11,111. An additional B1,111 per night gets you an upgrade to their Z-Luxe Club, which includes complimentary breakfast and cocktails among a host of other extras. Rates are exclusive of taxes and service charges and valid through Feb 14 only. 83/188 Soi Talay 12, Hua Hin-Khao Takieb Rd., Hua Hin, Prachuab Khirikhan, 032-536-888, www.letussea.com

Y Relax in Pattaya Forget Pattaya’s infamous reputation of old, these days the city has plenty of more relaxing and recreational activities on offer. alongside its wide selection of international-brand hotels. What better way to truly unwind on your break then with

a spa treatment, and we’ve uncovered a couple of interesting options. Hidden gem, the Tea Tree Spa at Holiday Inn Pattaya, for example, has just added a thousandyear-old Indian head massage to its menu. This age-old treatment helps release neck and shoulder tension and improve blood circulation. A 60-minute treatment is B1,290, and there’s also a buy-one-getone-free deal on weekdays. Meanwhile, just down the road at the Hilton, the Efora Spa is introducing new manicure and pedicure packages to pamper your hands and feet. The manicure is B800, while a manicure and pedicure combined is B1,200. If that weren’t enough relaxation for you, an additional B400 gets you unlimited martinis during your treatment. Tea Tree Spa: Holiday Inn Pattaya, Pattaya Beach Rd., 038-725-555 ext.3902. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.facebook.com/TeaTreeSpa. Pattaya | Efora Spa: Hilton Pattaya, Pattaya Beach Rd., 038-253-000. Open daily 10am10pm. www.hilton.com

Let’s Sea

head massage at Tea Tree Spa

february 2012 I WHERE T H A I L A N D 15

Eastern_new.indd 15

1/30/12 7:03 PM

ESCAPES

Andaman Announcements What’s hot in and around Phuket

Koh Kradan, location of the underwater wedding ceremony

Angsana Laguna Phuket

Y Sub-Aqua Romance

Y Angsana Arrives

Started back in 2000 to celebrate the month of love, the Trang Underwater Wedding Ceremony has now grown to become a world-famous event. Couples from around the globe will gather in Trang province and slip into the Andaman’s crystal-clear water to tie the knot, or just celebrate their anniversaries, while taking in the beautiful coral and colorful tropical fish. The three-day celebration, Feb 10-12, combines wedding ceremonies for divers and non-divers, cultural events, islandhopping trips, reception dinners and parties on the beach. If you’re willing to take the plunge, then it’s certainly a novel way to surprise your loved one. More information, and to register, at www. underwaterwedding.com.

A long-time family favorite on the island of Phuket, the Sheraton Grande Laguna Phuket, has just gone through a US$30million facelift and reopened as the Angsana Laguna Phuket, making this the brand’s first property in Thailand and their largest in Southeast Asia. All the rooms and suites have been refurbished with a more contemporary style and a warm palette of colors. The 10 room types now range from the 40-sq-meter Laguna room to the 490-sq-meter Angsana Grand Pool Residence that offers four bedrooms, kitchen, sundeck and outdoor pavilion. Angsana’s introductory rates start from B6,100 per night with breakfast, through Feb 26. Book two consecutive nights to receive B3,000 credit to spend within the hotel, plus get an additional 90-minute

Catch beach Club

massage at Angasana Spa, if you book for three nights. Laguna Phuket, Bangtao Beach, Phuket, 076-324-101. www.angsana.com

Y Beachfront Club Beach clubs are a hot trend in Phuket, with a host of beachfront eateries and chill-out spaces appearing around the island in the past months. One of the latest, and probably the most stylish, is the Catch Beach Club overlooking Surin Beach. Managed by the fashionable Twin Palms Hotel, it offers a Nikki Beach kind of vibe; for the unitiated, that means a very chill yet expensively-stylish ambience and beautiful crowds. Surin Beach, 076-316-599. Open daily 9am-1am. Entry B1,500 with B1,500 credit to spend at the club.

16 W H E R E T H A I LAND I FEBRUARY 2012

ANDAMAN_new.indd 16

1/30/12 7:06 PM

where

the guide

ART

ML Toy Xoomsai: The latest in the gallery’s Seeking Forgotten Thai Photographers’ project features original prints from Thai photographer ML Toy Xoomsai, famous for being the first to take and exhibit nude images, produced during the days of Field Marshall P. Pibulsongkram’s nationalist government. Through Feb 26. Kathmandu Photo Gallery, 87 Pan Rd, 02-234-6700. Open daily 10am-7pm.

arts + CULTURE..................................... 18-19 dining........................................................20-23 nightlife.........................................................24

health + wellness..................................25 shops + services.................................26-27

navigate.........................................................29 maps............................................................30-33

FEBrUA RY 2012 I WHERE tha i l a n d 17

cover guide FEB12_new.indd 17

1/27/12 7:13 PM

Art+Culture BANGKOK

Art Exhibition Highlights

Illuminations — Burma’s highest selling artist and devout Buddhist Aung Kyaw Htet reflects the essential role his rural upbringing and religious beliefs have played in his life. This exhibition depicts realistic images of monks and nuns while utilizing light and shadow and subdued colors to convey their serenity. Feb 18Mar 17. Thavibu Gallery, Suite 308, 3/F Silom Galleria, 919/1 Silom Soi 19, 02-266-5454. BTS Surasak. Open Mon-Sat 11am-7pm. www. thavibu.com

ART GALLERIES 100 TONSON GALLERY — With a prime location and well-designed space, this gallery doesn’t shy away from political topics and attracts leading artists. 100 Soi Tonson, Phloenchit Rd., 02-6841527. BTS Chit Lom. Open Thu-Sun 11am-7pm. www.100tonsongallery.com ARDEL GALLERY OF MODERN ART — This vast 720-square-meter space hosts visual and performing arts events. It also has an outdoor space and a café; and runs art workshops, discussions and seminars. 99/45 Belle Ville, Boromratchonnanee Rd (Km 10.5), 02-4222092. Open Tue-Sat 10:30am-7pm, Sun 10:30am-5:30pm. www.ardelgallery.com BANGKOK ART & CULTURE CENTER (BACC) — The city’s center for contemporary art features regular exhibitions, seminars and art-related shops in its impressive 11-story structure. 939 Rama I Rd, Pathumwan, 02-214-6630-1. BTS National Stadium. Open Tue-Sun 10am-9pm. www.bacc.or.th BANGKOK SCULPTURE CENTER — The threestory, studio-office-cum-gallery houses more than 250 privately owned sculptures and is open twice a month to the public. PM Center Bldg., Nuanchan Soi 56, Pradit Manoothan Rd., 02791-9400 ext 320. Open every 2nd and 4th Sat 10am-4pm. www.bangkoksculpturecenter.org

Primitive — The latest project by 2010 Cannes Palme d’Or winning director, Apichatpong Weerasethakul, is a multiple video installation blending interviews of former communist insurgents alongside fictional sequences. Dec 1-Feb 29. 6 Kasemsan 2, Rama I Rd, 02-216-7368. BTS National Stadium. Open daily 9am-5pm. www. jimthompsonhouse.com

Pixel Horizon — The highly distinctive Thai contemporary artist Montri Toemsombat’s latest exhibition uses pixel manipulation techniques to explore the intimate relationship between society and sexuality, and attempts to demonstrate how the existing social structures can lead to disruption and oppression. Through Mar 4. 100 Soi Tonson, Phloenchit Rd., 02684-1527. BTS Chit Lom. Open Thu-Sun 11am7pm. www.100tonsongallery.com

FOREIGN CORRESPONDENTS CLUB OF THAILAND (FCCT) — A popular spot for the city’s journalists, the FCCT also hosts occasional exhibitions of photojournalism, as well as running talks and film screenings. Penthouse, Maneeya Centre, Phloenchit Rd., 02-652-0580-1. BTS Chit Lom. Open Mon-Fri 10am-11pm. www. fccthai.com GOSSIP GALLERY & TEO + NAMFAH GALLERY — A multifaceted space showcasing contemporary pieces from local and international artists. 3/F, Silom Galleria, 919/1 Silom Soi 19, 02-237-5568. BTS Surasak. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www. gossipgallerybkk72.com H GALLERY — Located in a beautiful late 19th century building, H Gallery offers a program of exhibitions aiming to represent emerging contemporary Asian artists. 201, Sathorn Soi 12, 081-310-4428. BTS Surasak. Open Wed-Mon 10am-6pm. www.hgallerybkk.com JIM THOMPSON ART CENTER — Set above the shop in the grounds of the famous American’s beautifully preserved former home, this lofty space puts on excellent temporary exhibitions. 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Rd., 02-216-7368. BTS National Stadium. Open daily 9am-5pm. www. jimthompsonhouse.com KATHMANDU PHOTO GALLERY — This four-floor gallery, which includes a specialty bookstore, focuses on promoting the work of up-and-coming local photographers. 87 Soi Pan, Silom Rd., 02-234-6700. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open Tue-Sun 11am-7pm. www.kathmandu-bkk. com

KATHMANDU PHOTO GALLERY

LA LANTA FINE ART — This gallery offers contemporary artworks by international and upand-coming artists. 245/14, Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-260-5381, 02-204-0583. BTS Phrom Phong. Open Tue-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun by appointment only. www.lalanta.com NATIONAL GALLERY — Housing both traditional and contemporary Thai art, the gallery displays works by Thai artists from the 17th century onwards. It’s showing its age but still features some interesting shows. 4 Chao Fah Rd, 02281-2224, 02-282-2639- 40. Open Wed-Sun 9am-4pm. www.national-gallery.go.th NOSPACE GALLERY — This avante garde art space on the nightlife strip of RCA offers challenging exhibitions and acts as a venue for regular cutting-edge live music events. 21/108 Block D, Royal City Avenue (RCA), 02-641-4040. Open Mon-Tue 11am-7pm; Wed-Sun 11-1am. www. nospacebkk.com

18 W H E R E t ha i land I FEBrUA RY 2012

A&A listing FEB12.indd 18

1/27/12 7:43 PM

Art+Culture NUMBER 1 GALLERY — This contemporary 300-square-meter gallery supports Thai art through monthly exhibitions, featuring emerging and established talent and senior national artists. B1, Silom Galleria, 919/1, Silom Soi 19, 02-630-3381. BTS Surasak. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm, Sun 11am-6pm. www.number1gallery.com

V64 — More than 60 artists from Section 7 at Chatuchak Weekend Market teamed up to transform a three-acre space into a large art center, which features studios, a gallery, an art academy, shop and restaurant. 143/19 Chaengwattana Soi 1 Yak 6, Bhangkhen. Open daily 9am-6pm. www.v64artstudio.com

THE QUEEN’S GALLERY — With 3,700 square meters and a café, the focus here is often on royal and religious themes. 101 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd., 02-2815360/1. Open Thu-Tue 10am-7pm. www. queengallery.org SERINDIA GALLERY — Run by a publishing company, this gallery looks to focus on the art and culture of Asia, specifically the Himalayan region. OP Garden, Unit 3101-3201, 4-6 Soi Charoen Krung 36, 02-238-6410. Open TueSun 11am-8pm. www.serindiagallery.com

V64

WHITESPACE GALLERY — Founded by an American architect and Thai artist Maitree Siriboon, the narrow space at this design studio provides a platform for the works of emerging artists. 2/F, Lido Bldg, 260 Siam Square Soi 3, 02-252-2900. BTS Siam. Open Tue-Fri 1pm7pm, Sat-Sun 11:30am-8pm. www.whitespcegallery.com

SERINDIA GALLERY

SOMBAT PERMPOON GALLERY — More of a shop than a gallery, this space stocks more than 10,000 fine, modern and contemporary Thai art works. 12 Sukhumvit Soi 1, 02-254-6040. Open daily 9am-8pm. www.sombatpermpoongallery. com TANG CONTEMPORARY ART — A spin-off from sister galleries in Hong Kong and Beijing, Tang is known for promoting contemporary Chinese art as well as local artists. Unit B-28 (Basement), Silom Galleria 919/1, Silom Soi 19, 02-630-1114. BTS Surasak. Open Mon-Sat 11am 7pm. www. tangcontemporary.com THAILAND CREATIVE & DESIGN CENTER (TCDC)— This center is home to a big art library, as well as temporary exhibitions on art, design and fashion specifically viewed from a creative and commercial standpoint. 6/F, The Emporium, 622 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-664-8488. BTS Phrom Phong. Open Tue-Sun 10.30am-9pm. www. tcdc.or.th THAVIBU GALLERY — This gallery primarily exhibits Thai, Vietnamese and Burmese art, though they do carry other artworks. Suite 308, 3/F Silom Galleria, 919/1 Silom Soi 19, 02-2665454. BTS Surasak. Open Mon-Sat 11am-7pm. www.thavibu.com TOOT YUNG GALLERY — This gallery-cum-barcum-café-cum-book shop aims to provide a platform for local artists. 19 Prachathipratai Rd., 084-914-5499. Open Mon-Sun 2pm-8pm. www.tootyunggallery.com GALLERY VER — Owned by renowned artist Rirkrit Tiravanija, this gallery promotes experimental and conceptual art from local and overseas artists. 194 Tanao Rd., 02-622-0117. Open daily 1-7pm. http://ver.mono.net.

WTF GALLERY & CAFÉ — Part retro bar part gallery, the two top floors (and often the alleyway outside) are dedicated to exhibitions from local and international artists seldom seen elsewhere. There is also an additional space over the road at Opposite. 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-662-6246. BTS Thong Lo. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-1am. www. wtfbangkok.com

the restored courtyards with their fragrant gardens. Na Phrathat Rd., 02-215-8173. Open Wed-Sun 9am-4pm. Admission: B50. www. nationalmuseums.finearts.go.th ROYAL BARGE MUSEUM — Eight of the more than 50 barges that make up the royal processions are displayed here. The must-see is the Suphannahong, or Golden Swan, with its huge, golden figurehead prow. Pinklao Bridge Pier, Thonburi, 02-424-0004. Open daily 9am-5pm. Admission: B30. SUAN PAKKAD PALACE — This former royal household once belonged to their Royal Highnesses Prince and Princess Chumbhot of Nagara Svarga. Its eight Thai-style houses showcase sculptures, furniture and traditional instruments from the Rama V period. 02-354 Sri Ayudhya Rd., 02-246-1775/6 ext 229. BTS Phaya Thai. Open daily 9am-4pm. Admission: B100. www.suanpakkad.com VIMANMEK PALACE — With 12 separate museums in the compound, you could easily spend the day here. The site houses the royal museums of photography, clocks, textiles and silk, but the gorgeous teak buildings are the real draw. Strict dresscode (see their website for details). Ratchawithi Rd., 02-628-6300/-9. Open daily 9:30am-4pm. Admission: B100. www.vimanmek.com

MUSEUMS JIM THOMPSON HOUSE — The former home of CIA agent and savior of Thai silk, Jim Thompson, is a beautifully preserved complex of six traditional Thai-style houses from all over the country containing his art and antique collection of sculptures, paintings and porcelain. There is also an exhibition space, restaurant and shop. 6/1 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Rd., 02-216-7368. BTS National Stadium. Open daily 9am-5pm. Admission: B100 for adults, B50 for students and children. www.jimthompsonhouse.com KAMTHIENG HOUSE — This 200-year-old Northern Thai Lanna-style wooden house contains a collection of traditional agricultural tools and sits in the grounds of the Siam Society, which also holds regular lectures, seminars and workshops. Siam Society, 131 Sukhumvit Soi 21 (Asoke), 02-661-6470. BTS Asoke. Open TueSat. 9am-5pm. Admission: B100 for adults, B50 for children. www.siamsociety.org MUSEUM SIAM — The old Ministry of Commerce is now an innovative, technology-driven museum that takes you on a journey through the history of Siam via an array of multimedia presentations and interactive panels. 4 Sanamchai Rd., 02-2252777. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Admission: B300. www.museumsiam.com NATIONAL MUSEUM — Formerly the “second king’s” palace, this gorgeous property houses some of the most extraordinary architecture, art and antiques of the country. Don’t miss FEBRUA RY 2012 I WHERE Tha i l a n d 19

A&A listing FEB12.indd 19

1/27/12 7:43 PM

dining BANGKOK

drinking tea, eating rice

DOWNTOWN celadon — Thai. $$$$ Surrounded by lotus ponds, Celadon’s Thai pavilion contains elegant candlelit interiors that help accentuate the refined set menus, such as the seven-course Bai Horapa set. 71/1 Sala Daeng Soi 1/1, Silom Rd., 02-234-2226. MRT Silom. Open daily 11:30am-11pm. Drinking Tea, Eating rice — Japanese. $$$$ Stylishly simple in design, this earth-toned restuarant allows the food to take center stage. Choose from a wide range of top-quality sushi, sashimi, teppanyaki and kaiseki options, and wash it down with their extensive sake collection. 87 3/F, The Conrad Hotel, All Seasons Place, Witthayu (Wireless) Rd., 02-690-9999. BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-11pm. D’Sens — French. $$$$ The French-imported eatery by the Michelin-starred Pourcel brothers has all the oomph one might expect. The dimly lit dining room is ultra-chic, and the food is bold and exciting. 22/F, Dusit Thani Hotel, 946, Rama 4 Rd., 02-200-9000 ext. 2499. BTS Sala Daeng. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10pm.

La Scala — Italian. $$$$ The design by Ed Tuttle is resolutely contemporary and Asian, the ideal backdrop for the rustically tinged Italian cuisine. The Sukhothai Bangkok, 13/3 Sathorn Rd., 02344-8888. Open daily noon-3pm, 6:30-10:30pm. Nahm — Thai. $$$$ Former holder of a Michelin star, David Thompson’s Nahm serves a fiery, multi-course set menu, which offers plenty of delicious and authentic choices. Metropolitan, Sathorn Rd., 02-625-3333. Open daily noon-2pm, 7-11pm. Niu’s — Italian. $$$$ Muted tones, crisp white tablecloths and large windows let the inventive and delicious Italian food take center stage. Niu’s also has an extensive wine list and top name jazz acts downstairs. 1-2/F, Baan Silom, 661 Silom Rd., 02-266-5333. BTS Surasak. Open daily 5pm-1am. Ruen Urai — Thai. $$-$$$ Set in a century-old Thai house, decorated in a tasteful blend of contemporary furniture and rare Thai crafts, Ruen Urai has a polished menu of solid recipes. Rose Hotel, 188, Surawong Rd., 02-266-8268/-72. Open daily noon-11pm.

Water Library — International. $$$-$$$$ The use of steel, glass and grey wood is striking without being cold. There’s a long water menu, and some outstanding dishes. 2/F, Chamchuri Square, Phaya Thai Rd., 02-160-5188/9. MRT SamYan. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-9:30pm.

Price guide $ $$ $$$ $$$$

Under B400 B400-700 B700-1,000 B1,000 and up

Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course, dessert, charges and tax.

Eat Me — International. $$$$ The decor is a cool yet cozy mélange of industrial, natural and artistic. The kitchen pulls off bold combinations and the cocktails are perfection. 1/6 Phiphat Soi 2, Convent Rd., 02-238-0931. BTS Sala Daeng. Open daily 3pm-1am. Issaya Siamese Club — Thai. $$$-$$$$ Chef Ian Kittichai returns to his home country with this Thai restuarant, set in a delightful wooden mansion and featuring inventive twists on classic recipes. 4 Soi Sri Aksorn, Chue Pleong Rd., Sathorn Rd., 02-672-9040-1. Open daily lunch 11:30am–2:30pm, dinner: 6pm-10:30pm, supper: 10:30pm-1am. www.issaya.com

Zanotti — Italian. $$$$ A favorite haunt among power brokers and visitors, Zanotti serves up authentic Piedmontese cuisine made from top ingredients. 1/F, Sala Daeng Colonnade, 21/1 Soi Sala Daeng, 02-636-0002. Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 6pm-midnight.

Area guide Downtown covers the Silom, Sathorn and Siam neighborhoods Lower Sukhumvit covers the area from BTS Chit Lom to Sukhumvit Soi 19 Upper Sukhumvit covers the area from BTS Asoke to Sukhumvit Soi 53 ruen urai

20 W H E R E T H A I LAND I FEBRUARY 2012

Dining Listing FEB12_New.indd 20

1/31/12 3:38 PM

dining THONGLOR/ EKKAMAI 6th Fratello — Italian. $$$-$$$$ The food shows imagination and dedication to fresh ingredients, and the chefs’ pride in their work transfers to the knowledgeable staff. 40/25 Ekkamai Soi 12, 02-391-9946. Open Tue-Sun 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-10pm. 4 Garcons — French. $$$ Cooked by a Thai doctor, this is classic French fare served in a warm and elegant atmosphere. 1/F, Oakwood Residence, 113 Thonglor 13, 02-713-9547. Open daily 11:30am-10:30pm. Bonjour — French. $$$$ Fine French dishes served up in a bourgeois villa that boasts velvet lounge chairs and a small tropical garden. 1217/2 Sukhumvit Soi 59, 02-714-2112. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 6pm-1am. Fuzio — Italian. $$$$ Classic Italian recipes are mixed with just enough modern touches to suit the locale and clientele. A rooftop location and contemporary decor make for a special experience. 6/F, Mini Showroom, 99/99 Ekkamai Soi 7, 02-711-6999. Open daily 11:30am2:30pm, 6-10:30pm. Harvey — American, International. $$$$ The upstairs private rooms are often fully-booked by the rich and famous, and the downstairs dining room and bar are usually buzzing. As for the food, it encompasses interpretations of American, French and Italian. 129 Thonglor Soi 9, 02-7129911. Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 6-11pm.

Red — Indian. $$$ A chic, contemporary spot with cool gray walls and some red accents. The kitchen claims a fusion of India-meetsthe-West creations, and more classics dishes. 124 Thonglor Soi 9, 02-259-7590. Open daily 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-11pm. Soul Food Mahanakorn — Thai. $$-$$$ Soul Food is solid on both fronts: it dishes out very strong, original signature cocktails, as well as a brief menu of perfectly executed Thai regional dishes. The combo has a heady effect on the hip crowd and the place gets packed most nights. 56/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-714-7708. BTS Thonglor. Open daily 6pm-midnight. Vientiane Kitchen — Lao. $$ Vientiane Kitchen boasts fun and authentic Laotian dining in a quirky setting. Friendly staff in Vientiane wear wait tables while traditional musicians play dreamy wavering notes round the base of the magnificent tree in the center of the restaurant. 8 Sukhumvit Soi 36, 02-258-6171. Open daily noon-midnight. Xuan mai — Vietnamese. $$$ Probably the best Vietnamese restaurant in Bangkok, this is where former beauty queen-then-FBI agent chef Meyung Robson sources the best ingredients, often direct from Vietnam, and cooks them perfectly from traditional recipes. Try the bahn mo thit (Vietnamese sandwich) and cha ca Hanoi (grilled cat fish). 351/3 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-185-2619. Open Tue-Sun 11am-2:30pm, 6-11pm; Fri-Sat 11:30am-midnight; Sun 11:30am-10pm.

NEW>

Bussaracum

Opened in 1982, Bussaracum, was perhaps the first restaurant in Bangkok to serve Thai food with fine-dining decorum. They’ve just moved to a lovingly restored stately white house, a perfect match for the authentic Thai food, which utilizes intricate carving and folding techniques derived from the royal palace’s kitchens. Their rare desserts are a particular highlight. 1 Soi Pramual, Sri Wiang Rd., 02-630-2216-8. Open daily 11am-2pm and 5:3010:30pm. www.bussaracum.com

Khun Churn — Thai/Vegetarian. $-$$ This family-run eatery, tucked away in the relatively quiet Bangkok Mediplex, has a classy yet casual atmosphere and serves up a menu of down-to-earth yet delicious meat-free Thai meals. G/F, Bangkok Mediplex Bldg, Sukhumvit Soi 42, 02-713-6599. Open daily 10am-8pm Red

khun churn

Phuket town — Thai. $-$$ Phuket Town whips up solidly traditional and spicy Southernstyle dishes like kanom chine namya poo (rice noodle with crab curry) and pad sataw goong (stir-fried sataw with shrimp) in a bright and quirky setting that has plenty of Sino-Portuguese touches. Thonglor Soi 6, Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-714-9402. Open daily 10:30am-10:30pm.

FEBRUARY 2012 I WHERE TH A I L A N D 21

Dining Listing FEB12_New.indd 21

1/31/12 3:38 PM

dining Lower Sukhumvit 11 Gallery — Thai. $-$$ Set in a charming old wooden home down a bustling little soi, this popular spot serves up traditional Thai dishes in quaint tiffin boxes. 1/34, Sukhumvit Soi 11, opposite Ambassador Hotel, 02-651-2672. BTS Nana. Open daily 10-1am. Boqueria — French/Italian. $$$$ This venue focuses on classic dishes with a Mediterranean leaning. G/F, CRC Tower, All Season Place, 87/2 Witthayu (Wireless) Rd., 02-685-3930/1. BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily 11am-2:30pm, 5:3010:30pm.

Kuppa — International. $$$ Best-known as a lunch venue, Kuppa’s reliable menu of pastas, salads, desserts and great coffee has changed little over the years. Throw in comfy couches and floor-toceiling windows, and you’ve got one chill spot. 39 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02-663-0495, 02-663-8806. Open daily 10am-10:30pm. Biscotti — Italian. $$$$ A chic but comfortable ambiance, varied, ever-changing menu, including a very impressive daily lunch buffet, well-rounded wine list and “we aim to please” staff, this is definitely one of the best Italian restaurants in town. G/F, Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok, 155 Ratchadamri Rd.,02-251-6127. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm,6-10:30pm.

seeking an introduction to Thai food, thanks to its broad menu of properly executed standard dishes. 3 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-253-5868. BTS Nana. Open Mon-Sat 11am-11pm. Seafood Bar — Seafood. $$$ Owned by an oyster importer, this restaurant features 20 types of oysters and a range of perfectly grilled fish dishes cooked with a modern American approach. Somerset Lake Place, 41 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02663-8863, Open Tue-Sat 6-11pm; Sun noon-3pm, 6-10pm. BTS Asok.

Medici — Italian. $$$$ Tuscan-born chef Francesco Lenzi whips up his hometown’s specialties surrounded by a neo-industrial interior that is reminiscent of 1910 Chicago. Hotel Muse, 55/555 Langsuan Rd., 02-630-4006. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm. 6pm-midnight. Reflexions — French. $$$$ Elegant but edgy, with its raw black and white photographs of Bangkok, Reflexions is authentic French food without the stuffiness. Chef Thibault Chiumenti cooks with an eye for tradition and bold flavors. 3/F, Plaza Athénée, 61 Witthayu(Wireless) Rd., 02-6508800. BTS Phloen Chit. Open Tue-Sat 6-11pm. BOQUERIA

ROSAbieng — Thai. $-$$ This two-storey wooden house-turned-restaurant is a great place for those

SEAFOOD BAR

Snapper — Seafood. $$ This laidback and minimally-nautical restaurant with its picnic style benches and tables, specializes in sustainably fished New Zealand seafood and interesting fish and chips. 1/22 Sukhumvit Soi 11, BTS Nana. 02 651-1098. Open Tue-Sun, 5pm-midnight.

Erawan tea room — Thai. $$$$ With classy oriental decor, five-star service and a fine tea selection, Erawan Tea Room also impresses with its authentic Thai dishes and monthly-themed menus. 2/F, Erawan Bangkok, Ploenchit Rd., 02254-1234. Open daily 10am-10pm. Gianni Ristorante — Italian. $$$$ “Gianni’s,” as it’s referred to by most, has earned its following with consistently outstanding food, an elegant atmosphere and smooth service. 34/1 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd., 02-252-1619, 02-652-2922. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily noon-2:30pm, 6-10pm. Gaggan — Indian. $$$$ After a brief stint at the research facility of El Bulli, Chef Gaggan Anand developed this exciting menu interpreting regional Indian dishes with solid, traditional flavors and wow-worthy techniques. 68/1 Soi Langsuan, 02652-1700. BTS Chit Lom. 6pm-midnight. Grossi TrattoriA — Italian. $$$$ Backed by celeb-Australian chef Guy Grossi, it maintains its focus on earthy cuisine. This is no hotel restaurant—thanks to its bistro-vibe and soaring ceilings. G/F, Intercontinental Hotel, 973 Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-0444. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 11:30am-3pm, 6:30-10:45pm. La Monita Taqueria — Mexican. $$ Handsdown the best place for a quesadilla or fish taco. The decor and service aren’t much, but you won’t care after your third reposado margarita. Mahatun Plaza, 888/26 Phloenchit Rd., 02-650-9581. BTS Phloen Chit. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am-10pm. Shintaro — Japanese. $$$ Located in a corner of the high-end hotel, this cozy restaurant draws the glam crowd. The food is equally trendy, with dishes like sushi-pizza and California rolls. G/F, Four Seasons Bangkok, 155 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-251-6127. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5-10:30pm.

STREET EAT >

Sukhumvit Soi 38

Thai cuisine with its intriguing (if sometimes bewildering) blends of spices, aromas and flavors is justifiably famous the world over, which is why visitors to Bangkok are so keen to try the real thing for themselves. While there are plenty of good Thai restaurants in the city, if you want the real deal, then you have to hit the streets. Stalls and carts are literally everywhere, but for a simple, central spot that has a good range of dishes, your best bet is to head to Sukhumvit Soi 38 (by BTS Thonglor) after 7pm. On this side street you’ll find a host of stalls offering everything from a classic pad Thai to a bowl of bamee moo daeng (egg noodles with roast pork). Personally, we love the sweet treats here: don’t miss the mango sticky rice from the stall in a small alley on the right hand side as you enter the soi; or try the cheng sim ii, a ThaiChinese dessert featuring a mix of nuts and longan juice, available at one of the last stalls on the left hand side of the street. Sukhumvit Soi 38, Sukhumvit Rd. BTS Thonglor. Tue-Sun 7pm-1/2am.

22 W H E R E T H A I LAND I FEBRUARY 2012

Dining Listing FEB12_New.indd 22

1/31/12 3:39 PM

dining Upper Sukhumvit Bacco — Italian. $$$ This relaxed, slightly rustic and always noisy eatery packs in the diners nightly, thanks to its extensive menu of authentic regional specialties. 35/1 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-662-4538. BTS Thong Lo. Open Mon-Fri 11:30am-3pm, 5:30pm-midnight; SatSun11:30am-midnight. Bo.Lan — Thai. $$$ Chefs Bo and Dylan offer a traditional approach to Thai food, presented in a contemporary style and served in a stylish house-turned-restaurant. They recommend the Bo.lan balance, a degustation menu that changes seasonally. 42 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-260-2962. Open Tue-Sun, 6:30pm- midnight.

Bo.Lan

Enoteca — Italian. $$$$ This tavern is a charming little place, with its brightly-lit front yard, but its bold dishes are testament to Enoteca’s high ambitions. 39 Sukhumvit Soi 27, 02-258-4386. MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 5:30pm-midnight. ISao — Japanese. $$$-$$$$ Despite the standard izakaya facade, Isao offers something different— Japanese cuisine with American twists, thanks to the chef’s years of apprenticeship at Green Tea sushi bar in Chicago. Try the sushi sandwich (spicy tuna and salmon in sushi rice and crispy tempura flakes) and winter maki (crab meat, shrimp, avocado and carrot wrapped in thinly sliced cucumber). 5 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-2580645/6. Open Mon-Fri 11am-2:30pm, 5:3010pm, Sat-Sun 11am-10pm.

Curries and More by Baan Kanitha — Thai. $$$-$$$$ Choose from the hip glass and metal wine bar or the beautiful cream-colored colonial house to enjoy dishes that range from traditional favorites to fusion offerings like their tom yam Caesar salad. 31 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-259-8530-5. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 11am-11pm. Koi — Fusion, Japanese. $$$$ A favorite of Thai and international celebrities, this place has a wonderfully seductive yet minimalist vibe. The food is fusion, more LA Japan Town than Japan. 26 Sukhumvit Soi 20, 02-663-4990. Open MonSat 6pm-midnight. Ma du zi Restaurant by Yuyai — Japanese. $$$ With a stint at a Joel Robuchon restaurant in Tokyo, Japanese Chef Yuya Okuda’s food is very recognizably French, only very light, very subtle and with seamless exotic touches. Maduzi Hotel, 9/1 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02-615-6400. MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 11am-2pm, 6-10pm. Philippe — French. $$$$ Enjoy classic French fare, a stately decor and good wine while rubbing shoulders with the local bigwigs. Its affordable three-course set lunch is another reason to visit. 20/15-17 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-259-4577/8. BTS Phrom Phong. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am-2pm; daily 6-10pm.

Riverside China House — Chinese. $$$$ This is one sexy place: the tiny aquamarine bar, the deep red and black lacquers, the films playing in the toilets, and while there are cheaper places with greater reputations, China House is still a winning blend of style and substance. Mandarin Oriental, 48 Oriental Ave. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm.

CHINA HOUSE

ISAO

Indus — Indian. $$$ An ambient spot with a beautiful backyard, the kitchen at Indus also does a good job serving up much lighter versions of the usual favorites like biriyani, kebabs and tikkas. 71 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-258-4900, 02-661-5279. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-10:30pm.

Le Normandie — French. $$$$ The Mandarin Oriental’s showcase restaurant needs little introduction. For years, it has set the standard for service and cuisine—and the breathtaking river views aren’t bad. The Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave., 02-659-9000. Open Mon-Sat noon-2:30pm; daily 7-10:30pm. Mei Jiang — Chinese. $$$$ This elegant establishment overlooking the Chao Phraya river offers one of the best dim sum experiences in town. The food is authentic Cantonese, while the service is knowledgeable and courteous. The Peninsula Bangkok, 333 Charoen Nakhon Rd., 02-861-2888. BTS Saphan Taksin. Open daily 11:30am 2:30pm, 6-10:30pm.

FEBRUARY 2012 I WHERE TH A I L A N D 23

Dining Listing FEB12_New.indd 23

1/31/12 3:39 PM

nightlife BANGKOK

HYDE & SEEK

Downtown

ThongLor/Ekkamai

Bed Supperclub — Bangkok’s leading club, with a space-age interior, is divided into two sides—the restaurant, which offers creative food and cuttingedge performances; and the club, which sees beautiful people dancing to everything from house to drum n bass. 26 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-651-3537. Open daily 7pm-2am. www.bedsupperclub.com

Clouds — The futuristic vision is certainly striking: from the undulating ceiling, sporting anything from roses to dolls, to the acrylic seating inset with leaves. Potent cocktails from the laboratory of a bar add to the technoeco-inspired theme. G/F, Seenspace, 251/1 Thonglor Soi 13, 02-185-2365. Open daily 6pm-2am.

Hyde & Seek — Elevated pub grub, arguably Bangkok’s best cocktail menu and a décor that conjures up both Victorian drawing room gravitas and NYC sophistication—it’s no wonder this place is so popular. Athenee Residence, 65/1 Soi Ruamrudee, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-168-5152-3. BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily 11-1am. Oskar — A comforting menu, a long list of drinks and a great DJ mean this bistro, in the heart of club land, has fast become a popular spot for pre-club drinks. 24, Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-255 3377. Open daily 6-11pm. Q Bar — The Soi 11 institution continues to deliver a heady mix of bass lines and international DJs. The remodelled second floor, with a large outdoor patio, means it’s now also a great spot to kick back with friends, while the downstairs, featuring a serious dance floor and three new bars, is perfect for serious beat and booze addicts. 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-252-3274. Open daily 8pm-1am. The St Regis Bar — With a great New York Mad Men vibe and impressive views, this spot also boasts a daily Champagne sabre ritual and their Thai take on the Bloody Mary. 12/F St. Regis Hotel, 159 Rachadamri Rd., 02-207-7777. BTS Rajadamri. Open daily from noon-1pm. www.stregis.com. Viva & Aviv — Fitting for its riverside location, this new venue has a rustic-yet-relaxed nauticallyinspired theme. Soak up the river view and enjoy inventive and well-made cocktails and pub grub. River City Complex, Yota Rd., 02-639-6305. Open daily 11am-midnight. www.vivaaviv.com

Fat Gut’z Saloon — Sitting on the corner of a small lifestyle mall, this hole-in-the-wall reminds us of a New Orleans speakeasy, with its dark panelled walls and matching furniture. A blues-fuelled band, interesting cocktails and fish n’ chips are the house specials. 1/F, Grass Thonglor, 264 Thonglor Soi 12, 02-714-9832. BTS Thonglor. Open daily 6pm-2am. Iron Fairies — Like no other bar in Bangkok. It actually looks more like a Dickensian factory, thanks to the crumbling blackened brick walls and scattering of ancient, industrial machinery that by day is used to make fairies. Yes, fairies. A great live band and powerful cocktails make this place even more special. 394 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 084-520-2301. BTS Thonglor. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-2am. Mellow — Another popular spot for dining and drinking, Mellow has proved a huge hit with young, well-off locals. They’re attracted by the warm, wood-heavy décor with beams and brick walls, friendly staff, comfort food and delicious cocktails. 1/F, Penny’s Balcony, Thonglor Soi 16, 02-382-0064. Open daily 11-1am. Wine Republic — They take their vino seriously here, with a wall of bottles and informed staff to talk you through your purchase. The dark spit-and-sawdust interior and breezy outdoor terrace get very busy on weekends. Thonglor Soi 10, Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-714-7599. Open daily 5:30pm-1am.

New: Kacho The Imperial Queen’s Park Hotel might have been around for 20 years, but its nightlife scene just got a fresh injection of cool with the opening of this charming lounge on the 37th floor. Situated next to their Japanese izakaya, also named Kacho, the bar is a great place to continue a night of sake drinking and snacks. Kacho is a type of flower, and the restaurant side of the space mimics a small rural village: heavy on the wood and floral motifs. The bar follows a similar concept but is dominated by the large, suede sofas that flank a huge glass wall serving up panoramic views of Bangkok. Those who want to take the party alfresco note that they are now using their outdoor rooftop area to host popular bi-monthly parties. 199 Sukhumvit Soi 22, 02-261-9000. Open daily 6pm-2am.

24 W H E R E tha i land I february 2012

Nightlife listing_FEB12_NEW.indd 24

1/30/12 7:38 PM

HEALTH + WELLNESS BANGKOK traditional thai massage

Wat Po

SPA BODY TUNE — The “menu” here is short, sweet and to the point: foot reflexology, hand, Thai and oil massage. But what they do, they do well. We prefer the quieter Silom branch. Silom: 56 Yada Bldg., 2/F, Silom Rd., 02-238-4377. BTS Sala Daeng. Sukhumvit: 49 Sahai Place Bldg., Sukhumvit 24, 02-661-0077. BTS Phrom Phong. Open daily 10am-midnight. www.bodytune.co.th I.SAWAN — With its Tony Chi design, the i.sawan Residential Spa & Club and its residential cottages and treatment bungalows is one of the most beautiful in Bangkok. It also houses a fitness club, tennis and squash courts and a 25-meter pool. 5/F, Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok, 494 Rajdamri Rd., 02-254-1234. Open daily 6am11pm. www.bangkok.grand.hyatt.com

A major tourist attraction, Wat Po is just as as famous for its massage school as it is for its 46-meter-long Reclining Buddha. Never mind that there’s usually a wait and little privacy once you’re inside. Massage treatments at this traditional Thai massage school attract many people who want the real deal. Wat Po’s history as a center for Thai massage dates back to 1843, when King Rama III commissioned 60 diagrams depicting various massage techniques to be inscribed on the temple’s marble walls. If you feel inspired to learn the art yourself, enroll in the temple’s training classes. Wat Po (Wat Prachetuphon), 2 Sanamchai Rd., Phra Nakhon, 02-225-4771. Open daily 8am-6pm. www.watpomassage.com LET’S RELAX — With branches in tourist destinations around Thailand, and a wide variety of packages and trained massueses, Let’s Relax is a popular day-spa brand. 6/F, Terminal 21, Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-6626935/-37. BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 10am-midnight. More branches: www.letsrelaxspa.com MULBERRY SPA — Set in a 60s-style residential compound, Mulberry Spa offers all the usual selection of treatments amid a classy-yet-cozy ambiance. 132 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-664-1888. MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 9am-11pm. Silom branch: 346/8-10 Silom Rd., 02-630-9888. BTS Sala Daeng Open daily 10am-10pm. www. mulberryspa.com THE ORIENTAL SPA — As sophisticated as the hotel, The Oriental Spa, offers four specialty suites, ten private rooms and a huge range of variety treatments, covering everything from Thai to Hawaiian therapies. Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, Oriental Ave, Charoen Krung Rd., 02-659-9000. Open daily 9am-10pm. www. mandarinoriental.com/bangkok/spa PaNPURI ORGANIC SPA — Hidden behind the shelves of high-end beauty store Panpuri are the two small treatment rooms of the high-end spa. The small-but-beautiful space welcomes you with black stone and gold mosaics and host of treatments using exclusive organic products. Lobby Level, Gaysorn, Ploenchit Rd., 02-6561199. Open daily 10-8pm. www.panpuri.com

S MEDICAL SPA — Founded by a renowned local anti-aging physician, the award-winning spa creates real beauty from within, with a selection of integrated wellness programs. 2/2 Bhakdi Bldg., Wireless Rd., 02-253-1010. BTS Ploenchit. Open daily 10am-9pm. www.smedspa.com

S MEDICAL SPA

SPA@tonson — This resort style spa includes nine treatment rooms and utilizes ancient Asian healing techniques in their treatments. The highlight has to be the special 4-hand massage. 5F, Bliston Suwan Park View, 9 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd., 02-658-7980. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily noon-9pm. www.spatonson.com SPA BOTANICA — Surrounded by the lush gardens of the Sukothai Hotel, Spa Botanica is an urban retreat. Their signature spa treatments span two hours and combine the best of oriental massage options. 13/3 South Sathorn Rd, 02-2344-8900. Open daily 9am-10pm. www.sukhothai.com THANN SANCTUARY SPA — THANN Sanctuary offers a variety of treatments based on THANN world class spa products within a tranquil space bathed in warm grey and soothing lights. 3/F, Gaysorn, Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1424. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 10-9pm. www.thann.info TRIA — Tria is not just a spa: this sanctuary hidden behind Piyavate Hospital is a rejuvenation center offering integrated programs. With more than 50 treatment rooms, there are also hydrotherapy pools, a restaurant and residences for long-term treatments. 998 Ronkhlongsamsen Rd., 02-6602602. Open Mon-Fri 7-10am. Closes Sat 9pm, Sun 8:30pm. www.triaintegrativewellness.com URBAN RETREAT — Urban Retreat’s various branches offer relaxing havens from the city in the middle of town. 31/10 Soi Phromjai, Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-204-2008/9. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.urbanretreatspa.net

Spa cottage at i.sawan

ELEMIS SPA — The Elemis Spa is a first in SE Asia and only the fourth in the world. Its extravagant setting—the city view from the couples’ room is breathtaking—and the ancient Arabian sauna in their Rassoul Chambers are highlights. 15/F, The St. Regis Bangkok, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-207-7777. BTS Ratchadamri. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.stregis.com/bangkok HEALTH LAND — Health Land has built its sizeable reputation on a blend of affordable prices and expert masseuses. There are branches throughout town. 120 North Sathorn Rd. , 02637-8883. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open daily 9am11pm. More branches: www.healthlandspa.com FEBRUARY 2012 I WHERE tha i l a n d 25

HEALTH AND WELLNESS_FEB12_NEW.indd 25

1/30/12 7:21 PM

ShopS+Services BANGKOK

Terminal 21

Downtown Amarin Plaza — The Greco-Roman facade of this mall actually hides some unexpected gems. ID1 on the first floor holds an interesting collection of local fashion designers, while the Thai Craft Market on the third floor is good for souvenirs. 496-502 Ploenchit Rd., 02-6504704. BTS Chit Lom. www.amarinplaza.com

Central Chidlom — The closest thing Bangkok has to Harrod’s, Central Chidlom, first opened in 1973 and remains the Central Group’s flagship department store. All eight floors are packed with leading brands like Bottega Venetta, DVF, Coach, Paul Smith and Gucci. Don’t miss the impressive Food Hall on the ground floor and the views from the international food court, Food Loft, up on the seventh. 1027 Ploenchit Rd., 02-793-7777. BTS Chit Lom. www.central.co.th CentralWorld — Southeast Asia’s largest lifestyle shopping complex is home to seven floors, or 550,000 sq meters, of restaurants, cinemas and stores. It’s a good spot for top brands like Topshop, Gap and Uniqlo as well as Thai favorites like Singha Life and Disaya. Ratchaprasong Intersection, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-635-1111. BTS Chit Lom/Siam. www. centralworld.co.th Erawan Bangkok — This mini-mall might look petite, but its three floors offers some high-end boutiques you can’t find elsewhere, including unique Club 21 stores like Yohji Yamamoto, Dior Homme and Lanvin. 494 Ploenchit Rd., 02-250-7777. BTS Chit Lom. www.erawanbangkok.com Gaysorn — Thailand’s leading high-end mall, Gaysorn’s soaring roof is home to numerous luxury international labels (Louis Vuitton, Dior, Prada, Fendi and Celine) and unique Thai brands like Sretsis, Disara, Cloud 9, Zenithorial and Panpuri. 999 Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1149. BTS Chit Lom. www.gaysorn.com

amarin plaza

MBK Center — Clothes, sneakers, suitcases, perfumes, cameras, watches, mobile phones and souvenirs—you can find it all here and all at bargain prices. As a result,the confusing chaos of MBK is packed with haggling tourists. Be warned: cheap doesn’t always mean good. Still it’s fun and there’s a decent Thai food court on the 6th floor. 444 Phayathai Rd., 02-620-9000. BTS National Stadium. www.mbk-center.co.th Pantip Plaza — A heaven for tech and IT lovers the rather grungy-looking seven floors are dedicated to gadgets and gizmos. You’ll find countless little stalls selling computers, laptops, mobile phones, printers, mainboards, cameras, electronic appliances and selections of bootleg DVDs. Not all of it is legitimate, but most items are usually a lot cheaper than elsewhere. 604/3 Petchaburi Rd., 02-250-1555. BTS Ratchathewi. www.pantipplaza.com Platinum Fashion Mall — Platinum Mall is Bangkok’s wholesale fashion shopping central. Though not unique, Platinum does seem to be the biggest source for the city’s street and market stalls. You can find everything fashionrelated from women’s shoes to men’s suits. And don’t worry about the wholesale bit, as even single items are very cheap. 222 Petchaburi Rd., 02-121-8000. BTS Ratchathewi. www. platinumfashionmall.com Siam Center — One of the longest-standing shopping malls in Bangkok, it remains a favorite with teen shoppers, thanks to a recent facelift and the cool, cutting-edge local brands that call it home. Siam on Third on the third floor features established Thai fashion designers, while Mob.F on the fourth lets the new wave showcase their work. Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000. BTS Siam. www.siamcenter.co.th

26 W H E R E tha i land I february 2012

Shop listing_FEB12_New.indd 26

1/30/12 7:25 PM

ShopS+Services Siam Paragon — With a prime location next to the city’s busiest BTS station, its towering glass façade contains a huge selection of stores, from Hermes and Chanel to street favorites like Mango and Zara, plus Siam Ocean World, Southeast Asia’s biggest aquarium, a bowling alley, a concert venue and a cinema. As well as lots of restaurants, there’s also a food court in the basement. 991 Rama 1 Rd., 02-690-1000. BTS Siam. www.siamparagon.co.th Siam Discovery Center — The sister mall of Siam Center just celebrated its 10th anniversary with an overhaul, which included the addition of lots of new eateries as well as the opening of an ice-skating rink and a Madame Tussuad’s wax museum. It also remains the place to come for Thai furniture brands and Japanese gift-store Loft. Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000. BTS Siam. www. siamdiscoverycenter.co.th

Sukhumvit The Emporium — Set in the heart of the city’s upscale residential area (home to Bangkok’s largest Japanese community), The Emporium offers luxury shopping without the crowds, thanks to their tenant portfolio, which includes brands like Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Chanel and Prada, along with Thai favorites like Jaspal, Thann and Jim Thompson. There are also lot of eating options, a cinema and the Thailand Creative Design Center. 622 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-269-1000. BTS Phrom Phong. www.emporiumthailand.com

Markets Chatuchak Market — Better known by locals as JJ, Chatuchak is one of the world’s largest weekend markets. More than 15,000 retailers occupy the 27-acre space which is broken down into 27 sections roughly categorized by the products on offer. You can literally spend the weekend here amid the rabbit warren of stalls but if you have limited time then this is the general breakdown: Books are in Section 1, while Sections 2-4 are home to young fashion designers. Sections 5-6 have vintage clothing, and you’ll find art in Sections 7-9. Sections 1024 offer a real mix of miscellaneous stuff, while Sections 25-27 are dedicated to crafts and home-decor items. Corner of Phahonyothin and Kamphaeng Phet roads. BTS Mo Chit/ Saphan Kwai, MRT Kamphaeng Phet. Open Sat-Sun 10am-7pm. www.chatuchak.org Ratchada Night Market — Originally a trading space for vintage vehicle lovers, Ratchada Night Market is now one of Bangkok’s most popular late-night shopping spots. Apart from vintage cars, motorbikes, bicycles and parts, you’ll find old and new home decor items, old books, fashion apparel, handcrafted products and even some lethal cocktails at the 200-plus stalls. Ratchadapisek Rd. MRT Lat Phrao. Open Sat, 7pm-1am.

talat rod fai

Talat Rod Fai — This alfresco night bazaar has quickly become the new beloved weekend night market for vintage shoppers, thanks to the mix of retro fashion, décor and toys for sale and because of the laidback ambience at the adhoc bars and cafés. Kamphaeng Phet Rd. MRT Kamphaeng Phet. Open Sat-Sun, 4pm-1am

Shopping Walk>

Charoen Krung Road (New Road).

Terminal 21 — Bangkok’s newest shopping complex boasts an airport terminal-cuminternational destinations theme. As you travel through the nine floors you can stop off at the Caribbean, Rome, Paris, Tokyo, London and Istanbul. The lower floors are dedicated to high-street chains, while the higher floors offer a host of intriguing boutiques by Thai designers. There’s also a food court, restaurants and a cinema. 2-88, Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-108-0888. BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit. www.terminal21.co.th

Elsewhere Central Plaza LaRdprao — The 30-yearold mall just underwent a total facelift, making it the hippest shopping complex in northern Bangkok. Brands like Topman, Zara, Uniqlo, Muji and Coach and over 50 restaurants, keep the mall packed on weekends. Phahonyothin Rd., 02-635-1111. MRT Lat Prao. www.centralplaza.co.th/ lardprao

River city

Start from River City, which is both a mini-mall and auction house, with a focus on Asian antiques where you could get anything from Burmese lacquerware to a pair of Thai Naga snakes. On your way down Captain Bush Lane, swing by the small row of warehouses home to PTendercool (massive, sculptural tables made locally) and Warp 54 Studio (pop portraits with an Asian focus). On Charoen Krung Road itself, you’ll walk past a multitude of antiques, jewelery and tailor shops catering to the riverside hotels’ guests—beautiful stuff, but it doesn’t come cheap. Pop into O.P. Place for a visit to Serindia Gallery (a top-notch showcase of mostly Tibetan and Himalayan art and photography), then make your way to The Mandarin Oriental where Lotus Art de Vivre stocks some of the most refined craftsmanship in Thailand.

Crystal Design Center — The CDC offers a vast range of merchandise in a large designfocused space. Designer chairs, platinum faucets, leather sofas and a lot more home decor products are the main draw for Phase 1, while Phase 2 is filled with restaurants and bars, cute cafes, fashion boutiques and home decor stores. It’s not the easiest place to get to, though: we recommend a taxi from MRT Lat Phrao. 1420/1 Praditmanutham Rd., Klongchan, 02-101-5999. www.crystaldesigncenter.com february 2012 I WHERE THAILAND 27

Shop listing_FEB12_New.indd 27

1/30/12 7:25 PM

Hot Stuff

Great gifts, and essential items for a stress-free trip. 1 A glowing, healthy face is the makeup

3 It’s obvious that watches for a holiday

5 With a few changes from the original

trend this year, so you might want to get some help from Benefit with their latest Cha Cha Tint that’lll do the work for both cheeks and lips. The shade is tropical sunset, just the right match for the beach. B1,480. Try M/F, Siam Paragon, 02-6901000. www.benefitcosmetics.com

trip shouldn’t look too official, but who says you can’t relax with style. The classic pop watch from Issey Miyake has that perfect minimal look with two choices of plain face colors: white and blue. B16,500. 2 /F, Men Intrend Siam Paragon, 02-6901000. www.isseymiyake.com

2 Sony Tablet S comes with a magazine-

4 BsaB is an organic-obsessed line,

with-the-cover-folded-back-like body that perfectly fits your palm for one-handed use. Its 9.4-inch multi-touchscreen promises smooth responsiveness, just like an iPad. With 5MP rear camera and a VGA front camera, it runs on Android 3.2 and is also PlayStation Certified, meaning you can enjoy a handful of games during your long-haul flight. B14,990 for 16GB, B17,900 for 32GB. www.sony.com

making 100% natural spa goodies in Thailand since 2006. Their bee and soy wax candles are totally free of chemicals and lead. Stylish bio-degradable plastic and recycled paper packaging means they also make ideal gifts. From B350 at BsaB, G/F, Eight Thonglor, Thonglor Soi 8, 02714-9177. www.bsabcandles.com

fragrance by Narciso Rodriguez, the shocking pink edition of For Her in Color focuses on floral scents with notes of rose, peach pulp, vanilla and amber, while the purple edition, Essence in Color, enhances the feeling of sensuality with notes of amber, iris powder and a hint of tiara blossom. B4,700. Try 1/F, Central Chidlom, 02-793-7777. www. narcisorodriguez.com

6 Style-conscious travelers can now use the airport as their catwalk as Tumi and Anna Sui just co-launched their latest voyage collection. Hard-shell luggage, laptop cases, tote carry-on and shoe bags from this collection have been showcased at New York Fashion Week, all marked with the iconic Anna Sui butterfly pattern and its signature black-and-purple palette. Prices range from B3,000-17,000. 1/F, Gaysorn Plaza, 02-656-1221. www.tumi.com

2 3

28 W H E R E T H A I LAND I FEBRUARY 2012

HOTSTUFF_1_NEW.indd 28

1/30/12 7:31 PM

bangkok Navigate GET MOVING AIRPORT LINk—The Airport Rail Link (ARL) is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to travel to and from Suvarnabhumi Airport, especially for those travelling light. There are two types of trains: Express Line and City Line. The ARL Express Line runs from Suvarnabhumi to either Phaya Thai (connecting to the BTS) or Makkasan stations (connecting to the MRT, but it’s a long walk to MRT Petchaburi), and takes 15 minutes. The City Line stops at six stations and takes around 30 minutes. THAI Airways passengers boarding the Express Line can check their bags at Makkasan City Terminal. Fares are B15-B45 for City Line and B150 for Express Line. More information at airportraillink.railway.co.th. CANAL BOATS—While Bangkok used to be the Venice of the East, there is now only one canal still used as a means of getting around. Klong Saen Saep canal has a ferry service that runs daily from Ban Kapi in the Eastern suburbs to Phu Khao Thong or the Golden Mount in the heart of the Old Town, stopping off at various piers along the way. Be warned though, the boats don’t wait long at the piers, making getting on and off rather nerve-wracking (and physicallychallenging) and due to the unsavory nature of the canal (klong) water, any view is blocked by sheets of tarpaulin to prevent splashing. Fares are between B9 and B19, depending on distance and are purchased on board.

built along the river. The main Sathorn (Central) pier is located by BTS Saphan Taksin with boats heading upstream from here and stopping off at numerous piers all the way to Nonthaburi. Fares range from B9 to B32 depending on distance. You can also opt for a tourist ticket (B150), which allows one-day unlimited travel and comes with an excellent guide booklet to some of the leading tourist attractions accessible from the river.

BUSES—The bus is a popular (if slow) budgettravel choice in Bangkok. The Bangkok Mass Transit Authority (BMTA) operates an extensive number of routes throughout Bangkok and its nearby provinces. There are two types of buses: non-aircon and air-con. Fares for non-air-con buses are B6.5-7.5 while fares for air-conditioned buses are B10-23, depending on the distance. Fares are paid to on-board staff, who rarely speak English. Visit www.bmta.co.th for a list of routes and schedules. Intercity BUSES—There are three main stations for buses out of town. The Northern Bus Terminal or Mo Chit (02-936-2841/-3) is located a taxi ride from Mo Chit BTS /Kamphaeng Phet MRT and services Northern and Northeastern Thailand as well as some Eastern destinations. The Eastern Bus Terminal (02-391-2504) is located right by BTS Ekamai and has buses departing to Pattaya, Rayong, Koh Samed and Trat. Finally, the Southern Bus Terminal or Sai Tai (02-894-6122) is located across the river at Thonburi on Boromratchachonnanee Road and services Western (Kanchanaburi) and Southern Thailand, including the islands of Phuket and Samui.

There are interchange stations between the MRT and BTS at Sukhumvit (MRT)/Asoke (BTS) and Silom (MRT)/Sala Daeng (BTS). Fares are B15-B40 for both trains. Tickets can be bought for individual journeys, or you can get special one-day tourist passes or tickets that cover a specified number of trips. More information at www.bts.co.th and www.bangkokmetro.co.th. Please note the BTS and MRT use different ticketing systems.

TAXIS—Bangkok metered taxis are readily available and affordable, with fares starting from B35 for the first two kilometers. Despite their many colors, there’s no difference in prices and service. Some drivers speak limited English, so do get your destination written down in Thai to avoid any miscommunication. Taxis sometimes try to negotiate a price. Make sure to only pay the metered price.

TUK-TUK—Tuk-tuks are a noisy but fun way of getting around Bangkok, not to mention great photo opportunities. However, there is no guarantee of beating the infamous traffic and you should agree on a price before getting in. Haggle hard and be wary of any cheap offers if you don’t want an unexpected trip to a tailor or gem store!

skytrain/underground—The Bangkok Skytrain (BTS) stops at Bangkok’s main districts and gives you a bird’s eye view of the city. There are two main lines: the Silom Line, which runs from across the river in Wong Wian Yai to National Stadium; and the Sukhumvit Line, which runs from Soi Bearing in the eastern part of the city along Sukhumvit before heading up north to the Mo Chit station by the Chatuchak Market. Siam is the interchange station between the two lines.

EXPRESS RIVER Boats—These fast, frequent and cheap ferries along the Chao Phraya River are a great way to get a different perspective on the city, as well as a good option for getting to many of the temples and palaces

The underground, or MRT, is one line but has an extensive reach, from Hua Lamphong train station on the outskirts of Chinatown, down through the main Central Business District before turning North and heading up Ratchadapisek Road past Chatuchak Market and ending at Bang Sue station.

TOURIST INFORMATION Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) — The Tourism Authority of Thailand is ready to answer all your questions about traveling in Thailand and the leading tourist destinations. The TAT headquarters is on Petchaburi Road (1600 New Petchaburi Road, Makkasan, Ratchathewi, 02-250-5500. MRT Petchaburi). They have visitor centers at Ratchadamnoen Road (Ratchadamnern Nok Rd., 02-356-0650. Open daily 9am-5pm) and Suvarnabhumi Airport (1/F, near Gate 3, 02-134-4077. Open 24 hours). You can also phone their call center at 1672 or log into www.tourismthailand.org for detailed information. The website also has a comprehensive description of the month’s events and festivals, as well as vacation packages, e-newsletters, trip planning tools and downloadable handbooks. For emergencies, contact the Tourist Police 24-hour call center (1155).

february 2012 I WHERE T H A I L A N D 29

Navigate listing_FEB12_New.indd 29

2/1/12 10:18 AM

BTS

Ç§àÇÕÂ¹ãËÞ‹

Wongwian Yai

·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÇÑ§ËÅÑ§

Wang Lang

Chao Phraya River

áÁ‹¹้Óà¨ŒÒ¾ÃÐÂÒ

BTS

·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÃÒªÇ§È

Ratchawong

¡ÃØ§¸¹ºØÃÕ

Yao wa r

¶¹

MRT

¶¹¹

ÊÐ¾Ò¹µÒ¡ÊÔ¹

Saphan Taksin

BTS

·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÐ¾Ò¹¡ÃØ§à·¾

Central Pier

·‹ÒàÃ×ÍâÍàÃÕÂ¹àµÅ

ÊÒÁÂ‹Ò¹

ÊØÃÈÑ¡´Ô์

BTS

ARL

¾ÞÒä·

ªÔ´ÅÁ

BTS

MRT

!3 ÊÕÅÁ

ÃÒª´ÓÃÔ

Ratchadamri

BTS

Chit Lom

Si Lom

BTS

MRT

ÊÂÒÁ

BTS

Siam

BTS

Ari

ÍÒÃÕÂ

ÊÐ¾Ò¹¤ÇÒÂ

Phaya Thai

Sanam Pao Ê¹ÒÁà»‡Ò

¡Óá¾§à¾ªÃ

BTS

à¾ÅÔ¹¨Ôµ

Phloen Chit BTS

ÅØÁ¾Ô¹Õ

MRT

Lumphini

MRT

BTS

¹Ò¹Ò

MRT

ÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ·

Nana

Sukhumvit

BTS

à¾ªÃºØÃÕ

¾ÃÐÃÒÁ 9

BTS

ÈÙ¹Â »ÃÐªØÁáË‹§ªÒµÔÊÔÃÔ¡ÔµÔ์

¾ÃŒÍÁ¾§É

Phrom Phong

ÍâÈ¡

¤ÅÍ§àµÂ

Khlong Toei

Rd. ÒÁ 4

º·Í§ËÅ‹Í

Thong Lo

ÇÔ·

Rd.

àÍ¡ÁÑÂ

Ekamai

BTS

ºØÃÕ

Petch aburi ¶¹¹à¾ªÃ

ÃÒª»ÃÒÃÀ

ARL

Ratchaprarop

ÈÙ¹Â ÇÑ²¹¸ÃÃÁáË‹§»ÃÐà·Èä·Â

Thailand Cultural Center

ËŒÇÂ¢ÇÒ§

Huai Khwang

ÊØ·¸ÔÊÒÃ

Sutthisan

ÃÑª´ÒÀÔàÉ¡

Ratchadapisek

ÅÒ´¾ÃŒÒÇ

Lat Phrao

Su kh u ¶¹ mv ¹Ê it Ø¢ØÁ R

a4 ¾ÃÐÃ

¶¹¹

Ram

MRT

¶¹¹ÃÑª´ÒÀÔàÉ¡

Phra Ram 9

Phetchaburi

Asok

MRT

Ratchadapisek Rd.

Queen Sirikit National MRT Convention Center

MRT

BTS

ARL

Makkasan ÁÑ¡¡ÐÊÑ¹

ËÁÍªÔµ

Mo Chit

¨µØ¨Ñ¡Ã

Kamphang Phet

Saphan Khwai

Chong Nonsi d. ª‹Í§¹¹·ÃÕ orn R Sath¶¹¹ÊÒ¸Ã

ÈÒÅÒá´§

Sala Daeng

MRT

Surasak

BTS

. g Rd won Sura ¶¹¹ÊØÃÇ§È . Rd Oriental Silom ÊÕÅÁ

Si Phraya ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÕ่¾ÃÐÂÒ

ËÑÇÅÓâ¾§

Hua Lamphong

BTS

Sam Yan

ÃÒªà·ÇÕ

BTS

¾ÞÒä·

Phaya Thai

Ratchathewi Ê¹ÒÁ¡ÕÌÒáË‹§ªÒµÔ

MRT

Í¹ØàÊÒÇÃÕÂ ªÑÂÊÁÃÀÙÁÔ

ºÒ§«×่Í

Victory Monument

Rd.

National Stadium

Lan Luang Rd. ¶¹¹ËÅÒ¹ËÅÇ§

¹ÃÒª ÇÔ¶Õ

Rat cha v ¶¹ ithi

ÈÃÕÍ aya ÂØ¸Â Rd . Ò

¶¹¹

Ayu tt

¹¾ ulo ÔÉ³ ke ØâÅ¡ R d

Ph its

Sri

3 4

en ¶¹¹àà at k Â R ¹à¨ run ÒÇÃÒª d. ÃÔÞ ¡ÃØ§ g R d.

¶¹

!1 Charo

¶¹¹ÃÒª´Óà¹Ô¹¡ÅÒ§

Krung Thon Buri

·‹ÒàÃ×Í·‹ÒàµÕÂ¹

Tha Tien

Maharaj Pier

·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÁËÒÃÒª

Brid

Rd.

ÊÒÁ

Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd.

·‹ÒàÃ×Í¾ÃÐÍÒ·ÔµÂ

Phra Athit

Bri dg 8 e

ÒÁ

ÃÐÃ

Ò¹¾

ma 8

ÊÐ¾

ÃØ§¸¹ ri ºØÃÕ

nbu

Ò¹¡

Tho

ÊÐ¾

àÊ¹

sen

¶¹¹

had a

Rat c

Sam

¹Í¡

Kru ng

á h ‹Á¹้Ó ra à¨ŒÒ ya ¾Ã ÐÂ Ri Ò ve

Rd.

mn oe

´Óà¹ Ô¹

ÃÒª

¶¹¹

¸Ô¹

ËÅâÂ

Bang sue

Ratch

Vip

Rd. onya thin ¾ adamri R d.

hav a

¶¹¹ dira ÇÔÀÒ ng Ç´ÕÃ sit Ñ§ÊÔµ Rd

Chatuchak Park

Pha h ¶¹¹ÃÒª´Ó ÃÔ

g Lo

¾ËÅâÂ¸Ô¹

¾ÃÐâ¢¹§

Phra Khanong

BTS

Í§ËÅ ‹Í ¶¹¹·

MRT

Rd. Thon

¶¹¹

ai Rd .

BTS

¹¹ ÅÒ´ o R ¾Ã ŒÒÇ d.

Lat P ¶ hra

ÒÁ 9

a9R ¶¹¹¾ ÃÐÃ

R am

ÃÐ ¹» ÃÒÁ¤ÓáË§

ARL

Ramkhamhaeng

¶¹

Phahon Yothin

¡ÁÑÂ ¶¹¹àÍ

e idg Br ŒÒ o Å kla Ð» ›¹à¡ Pin ¹¾Ã ra ÊÐ¾Ò Ph

Ekkam

u an tM Pr ad i

ÃÁ

Rd . th a

Ù¸Ã

Navigate listing_FEB12_New.indd 30 Á¹

30 W H E R E thailand I februa RY 2012 ´ÔÉ °

Navigate

ha atc ª at ÃRÒ¸ÔÇÒÊ ÃÒ w i th ¹¹ ara ¶¹

2/1/12 10:18 AM

Navigate listing_FEB12_New.indd 31

n ÃÔÞ oe ¹à¨ ar ¶¹

gR un Ø§ kr ¡Ã

ÊÐ¾Ò¹µÒ¡ÊÔ¹

Saphan Taksin

ÊØÃÈÑ¡´Ô์

Surasak

River/Klong (canal)

Airport Rail Link (ARL)

MRT

BTS (Silom Line)

BTS (Sukhumvit Line)

Expressway

m Ra

ÒÁ

ºÒ§¡ÃÐà¨ŒÒ

Ch P

¾ÃÐâ¢¹§

Phra Khanong

BTS

áÁ‹¹ hra ้Óà¨ ya ŒÒ¾Ã ÐÂÒ Rive r

àÍ¡ÁÑÂ

Ekamai BTS

Í‹Í¹¹Øª

ºÒ§¨Ò¡

BTS

Bang Na

!5 Crystal Design Center !6 Bangkok International Trade and Convention

6 Grand Palace / Temple of The Emerald Buddha 7 Wat Po

9 Victory Monument

Center (BITEC)

!4 Queen Sirikit Nation Convention Center

5 Khao San Road

8 Wat Arun

!3 Lumpini Park

BTS

¶¹¹ºÒ§ rat Rd. ¹Ò-µÃÒ ´

a-T

BTS

Bang N

ÍØ´ÁÊØ¢

4 Anantasamakhom Mansion

áºÃÔ่§

Bearing

BTS

ºÒ§¹Ò

BTS

Udom Suk

»Ø³³ÇÔ¶Õ

BTS

Punnawithi

Bang Chak

On Nut

!2 Central Rail Station (Hua Lamphong)

Bang Kra jao

Rd.

ÒÁ 4

¾ÃÐÃ

¶¹¹

Ram

3 Vimanmek Mansion

¤ÅÍ§àµÂ

Khlong Toei

!1 Yaowarat (Chinatown)

MRT

2 Chatuchak Market

at ÔÇÒÊ hiw ¹ÃÒ¸ rat ¶¹¹

!0 Thailand Cultural Center

1 Central Plaza Lardprao

Main road

R rin aka han¤ÃÒª¤ÃÔ¹ c t ¹ Ra ÃÒª

Key

. Rd a3 ÃÐÃ

¹¾

¶¹

BTS

Bangkok Overview

¡ÃØ§¸¹ºØÃÕ

Krung Thon Buri

Navigate Y

february 2012 I WHERE thailand 31

2/1/12 10:18 AM

Navigate 1. SILOM

HOSPITAL SALE

DEPARTMENT STORE/MARKET

BUS

BUS STOP

STOP

TEMPLE RESTAURANT INFORMATION POLICE STATION EMBASSY PIER MRT

BTS BTS ARL

MRT Station BTS Skytrain Station Airport Rail Link Station

2. OLD TOWN

Grand Palace

32 W H E R E thailand I februa RY 2012

Navigate listing_FEB12_New.indd 32

2/1/12 10:19 AM

Navigate

3. SUKHUMVIT

4. SIAM

february 2012 I WHERE thailand 33

Navigate listing_FEB12_New.indd 33

2/1/12 10:19 AM

tea al’s

the g local ket in

30 Things we LOve about Thailand

!8 1 Exploring the rich Lanna culture and amazing ancient temples on the charming streets of Chiang Mai. 2 Discovering Michelin-Starworthy, traditional Thai dishes at David Thompson’s Nahm (G/F, Metropolitan, 02-625-3333). 3 Browsing for cutting-edge fashions from the exciting young designers at Mob F (4/F, Siam Center, BTS Siam). 4 Offering alms to monks in the morning mist of Chiang Khan, on the banks of the Mekong River.

@8 9 Exploring the home of secret agent and silk tycoon Jim Thompson (6 Soi Kasemsan 2, 02-216-7368), a complex of gorgeous Thai teak pavilions packed with Asian antiques. !0 Discovering the nature delights of Phu Ruea National Park in Loei.

!1 Sipping a glass of Monsoon Valley Cuvee de Siam while looking out over the rolling hills at Hua Hin Hills Vineyard (081-701-0222).

#0 !7 Sitting ringside for a Thai

@4 Taking a coffee roasting

boxing match at Lumpini Stadium (Rama IV Rd., MRT Lumpini, www. muaythailumpini.com).

course at the Doi Chaang (www. doichaangcoffee.com) plantation in Chiang Rai.

!8 Savoring a glass of rare Vintage

@5 Setting out on a boat trip from

Moet & Chandon Champagne at The St. Regis Bar (12/F, The St. Regis Bangkok, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-2077777).

Koh Samui to explore the 40 stunning tropical islands of Angthong Marine National Park.

@6 Feasting on a five-star hotel floral delights and organized chaos of Pak Klong Talad flower market.

Sunday brunch, with lobster, foie gras and free-flow sparkling wine. Try the Peninsula’s by the river.

@0 Catching a traditional puppet

@7 Playing 18 holes on the beautiful

show at Baan Silapin (Tha Phra, Klong Bang Luang, 02-868-5279).

and challenging course at Black Mountain Golf Club in Hua Hin (www.blackmoutainhuahin.com).

!9 Getting up early to experience the

!2 Traversing the famous bridge and drinking in the memories along the River Kwai in Kanchanaburi.

5 Getting lost in the maze of alleys at Chatuchak Weekend Market (BTS Mo Chit).

!3 Taking a bicycle trip around the @1 Taking a long tail boat to Freedom

6 Experiencing the eerie beauty of

floating markets, lush plantations and crumbling temples of Bang Krajao (Spice Roads, www.spiceroads.com).

the sacred Wat Rong Khun (aka The White Temple) in Chiang Rai.

!4 Escaping the stresses of modern

@2 Getting a relaxing four-hand

7 Drinking a cocktail while admiring

living at one of Bangkok’s meditation centers (Try www.bia.or.th)

massage at Spa@Tonson (www. spatonson.com).

!5 Getting a glimpse of what

@3 Embarking on a Segway Tour

8 Enjoying tasty street eats from

Bangkok used to be like with a klong tour around the old canals (klongs) of Nonthaburi from Saphan Taksin Pier.

the numerous stalls to be found in Chinatown, along Yaowarat Road.

(www.segwaytourthailand.com) through the streets of Rattanakosin, passing old shop houses, temples and canals.

!6 Hunting for antiques along

Bangkok’s skyline from the 44th floor at Long Table Bar (02-302-2557/-9. www.longtablebangkok.com).

Charoenkrung Road in Bangkok.

Beach, the wonderfully inaccessible (and peaceful) beach in Phuket.

@8 Walking Phuket Town’s heritage trail and experiencing the unique Sino-Portuguese architecture.

@9 Getting up close to a gentle giant with a day visit to the Elephant Nature Foundation (www. elephantnaturefoundation.org) just outside Chiang Mai.

#0 Soaking up the view of the Gulf of Thailand from your private pool at the luxurious Conrad Koh Samui (www. conrad.com) in Koh Samui.

34 W H E R E tha i l and I FEBRUARY 2012

30things_FEB12_2.indd 34

1/30/12 7:33 PM

The Ralph Lauren Stirrup Watch 18K WHITE GOLD MEDIUM MODEL. FULL-PAVÉ WITH 348 DIAMONDS. MANUAL WINDING MANUFACTURE MOVEMENT. 144 COMPONENTS, 70-HOUR POWER RESERVE. SWISS MADE.

Siam Paragon Shopping Centre Bangkok Main Floor, Shop No. M44-45 991 Rama 1 Road, Pathumwan

0 2610 9678 80

0 2610 9268

RALPHLAURENWATCHES.COM

P36Thailande Pullman.indd 35 Tatler 229x305_Stirrup MEDIUM White GB INT JANV 2012.indd 1

1/27/12 9:0110:26 PM 16/12/11

P36 Pullman.indd 36

1/27/12 8:58 PM