Where® Thailand April 2012 by Where Thailand

Thailand

PLUS

a p r i l 2 0 12 the complete guide to go ®

Hidden Bangkok

Discovering the city’s top cultural attractions

Songkran special Krabi’s Beaches water and wine

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contents where

l THAILAND l April 2012

the guide

Bangkok

18 arts+Culture The top galleries, attractions and museums and this month's exhibition highlights

20 dining Exciting new openings in Sukhumvit and how the Water Library is making a big splash

25 nightlife Thrilling performances in Bed and the latest member of Bangkok's wine revolution

26 SHOPS+Services Luxury labels descend on the city's downtown malls

Features

28 Health+Wellness Sofitel So's new spa is a mythical jungle

05 l inner city culture Our round up of Bangkok's lesser-known

29 Maps

attractions and tours

Silom, Sukhumvit, Siam and Rattanakosin

10 l Return to railay Krabi's famous beach destination still retains its natural charms

also inside

Escapes

14 Managing Editor, Special Projects Nick Measures Editor Top Koaysomboon General Manager James Fuss Managing Editor Grégoire Glachant Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Art Director Dechart Sangsawang Designer Panita Thiraphapong

4 Hot dates 28 Hot Stuff

12 Island News

29 navigate

14 upcountry news

34 30 Things We Love

Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Senior Sales Associate Napasnun Sawanrachai Marketing Manager Arunee Wilson Marketing Executive, Creative Services Puttipat Teerakawongsakul Distribution Executive Suda Angsuputiphant On the Cover Yak statue at the Wat Phra Kaew temple complex. Photo by Pattrayuth Peantham

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP | EXECUTIVE Vice President, Operations Donna Kessler Vice President, Operational Innovation Russ Leseberg Director Of Marketing Lynn Basinger

Mvp | National Sales Director Of National Sales And Custom Publishing Anthony Karwoski National Sales Managers Jennifer O'loughlin, Julie Humeas, Monica Weeks, Wanda Garcia-Fetherston

E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris. Com

Mvp | Cartography And Circulation General Manager, Where Maps Christopher Huber

Morris Comunications Chairman & Ceo William S. Morris Iii President William S. Morris Iv

Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 22/F, Silom Center 2 Silom Road, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: where@asia-city.co.th facebook.com/WhereThailand

National Traffic Coordinator Leleah Robinson

Mvp | Creative Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson Editorial Director, Visitor Guides Don Hoffman

Design Director Jane Frey Editorial Director, Custom Publishing Linda Chase Creative Coordinator Beverley Mandelblatt

Mvp | Technology & Manufacturing Director Of Manufacturing Donald Horton E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.Com

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hot dates THAILAND

Through Jun 30

jhecking

Portraits de la Mode

Apr 13-15 Songkran Festival Famous as the world’s biggest water fight, Songkran, which falls at the beginning of the Buddhist’s solar calendar, actually marks the traditional Thai New Year celebrations. Combining several merit-making events, Buddhist rituals and temple fairs—the water splashing is actually only the very visible part of the festivities. Many locals use the three-day holiday for family reunions and to get together with friends, while teenagers and visitors celebrate the festival with water pistols and buckets. In Bangkok, Khaosan Road tops the list for holding the largest Songkran events, though there are also major night time parties along Silom Road, Siam Square and at nightlife hub Royal City Avenue on Rama 9 Road. There will also be special events held all over the Kingdom, with official festivities taking place at Ayutthaya, Sukhothai, Phuket, Khon Kaen, Nong Khai and Chiang Mai. Those who want a more contemplative view of the event can visit any Buddhist temple and join the locals in bathing rituals where they anoint statues of the Lord Buddha with water. Learn more about the religious and cultural significance of Songkran, and see an entire list of events at www.songkran.net.

Apr 17-22 Bangkok International Gift Fair and Houseware Fair 2012 (BIG-BIH) The largest trade and consumer fair of Thailand-made products is a fantastic opportunity to see a vast selection of the best craftmanship in the kingdom, all under one roof. The fair covers everything from silk and wood crafts to cuttingedge designer furniture, home décor items and spa products. While Apr 17-20 are trade days for buyers from around the world, Apr 21-22 are open to the public and offer some great deals and gift ideas. BITEC, Bang Na-Trat Rd., 02-749-3939. www.bigandbih.com. BTS Bang Na.

Photographs of Kenzo riding an elephant, JeanPaul Gaultier hugging Sonia Rykiel, Giorgio Armani sitting on an airport runway, and Karl Lagerfeld posing with his models in heavenly gowns make this a unique and intriguing exhibition. These images, and more, are all taken by veteran photographer and film director Jean-Marie Perier who takes us behind the scenes of the glamorous French fashion world. The exhibition is part of the ongoing annual French cultural festival La Fete. In front of Zen Department Store, CentralWorld, Ratchadamri Rd. BTS Chid Lom.

APR 13-15 Holy Mineral Water Looking for an alternative way to celebrate Songkran? Well, in Ranong, during the Thai new year festivities, locals head to the hot springs at Raksawarin Public Park and Tapotharam Temple to take a dip in the restorative warm waters, which have been blessed by hundreds of monks for the three months running up to the week of Songkran. There will also be additional celebrations taking place around Chumphon town. More information from TAT Chumphon, 077-502-775.

Apr 13-15 gCircuit Songkran 6 Southeast Asia’s largest gay party returns to Bangkok for its sixth year. The three-day series of events will see gay men from across the world (especially Asia) gather to strut their stuff and enjoy the fun at Zen Department Store’s 18th floor, Sofitel SO’s pool and the upscale Fallabella Club. Parties see an extensive lineup of DJs from Los Angeles, New York, Singapore, KL, Taipei and Bangkok as well as extravagant shows from plenty of hot boys. Admission for three days is B4,600 for a regular pass and B5,400 for a VIP pass, which gets you VIP entry, a special gift, access to a VIP area, bar, service and restrooms. Details and reservations at www.gcircuit.com.

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Hidden Culture

Lesser known attractions you really want to add to your Bangkok itinerary. By Top Koaysomboon, photographs by Pattrayuth Peantham

Phyathai palace

Tour de Bangkok

Phyathai palace

Royal Heritage Phyathai Palace Located on the banks of the Samsen Canal this palace was formerly the residence of King Chulalongkorn (Rama V), his consort Queen Sovabha, and his son King Vajiravudh (Rama VI). It was King Vajiravudh, who decided to transform the summer palace of his father into a complex of sophisticated mansions in different architectural styles, spanning everything from Greco-Roman and Gothic to Byzantine. He ended up spending most of his life there but after his death the palace was first converted into a luxury hotel, then became a military hospital. It is

now preserved as a national architectural treasure.

Top tip: Pay a visit to the charming and nostalgic Cafe de Norasingha inside the complex and sip a traditional cup of O-liang (Thai coffee) while pretending you’re a member of the royal court. 315 Ratchavidhi Rd., Ratchathewi, 02-354-7987, 02-354-7732. Open Sat-Sun 9:30am-4:30pm, Mon-Fri by appointment only. BTS Victory Monument. www.phyathaipalace.org

Bangkok Food Bangkok’s huge choice of food can sometimes be a little bewildering and intimidating for visitors. Well that’s where Bangkok Food Tour (089-126-3657, www.bangkokfoodtours.com) aims to help. A group of three Thai friends who wanted to share their passion for authentic Thai food decided to start this three-hour culinary tour. You’ll get to try 7-8 authentic dishes at five different longstanding restaurants. The tour gives you an insight into the recipes and ingredients used and lets you chat to the owners to learn their secrets of success. There are four different routes, with prices starting from B950.

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Museum Siam

Tour de Bangkok

Kukrit’s Home

Learning is Fun Museum Siam

Art Treks The art gallery, museum and studio Rock Around Asia (www. rockaroundasia.com) recently introduced an ‘Urban Trekking’ service, which touts a new way of touring the city that goes deep into the “real” Bangkok. Led by two guides and offered in French, Thai and English they have seven different treks including: Klong Toey and Pak Klong Night Market; cycling through Bankrajao Island; a visit to the potters at Koh Kred Island; a Klong tour, a visit to Talad Rod Fai antique market; and, our personal favorite, an all day tour around some of the city’s leading art galleries. A one-day program ranges from B1,900-2,900 per person.

Created in 2008 to inspire Thais, especially children, to learn more about their shared history, the museum is a fun and interactive journey of discovery, and a great place for visitors to find out more about the story of Siam. Created upon a Play & Learn theme, this centuryold, classical Italian style building, the former Ministry of Commerce, has been revamped into a three-floor exhibition space that combines rich historical resources and interactive presentations to take you from prehistoric Baan Chiang to Vietnam War-era Bangkok.

Top tip: The museum also holds rotating exhibitions and is currently hosting Ola Siao, an exhibition to celebrate the 500th anniversary of Thai-Portuguese diplomatic relations. The museum store is also worth checking out. 4 Sanam Chai Rd., next to Wat Po, 02-225-2777. Tian Pier. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Admission B300. www.museumsiam.com

Ancient History Suan Pakkad Palace Set in a 2.5-acre space close to Bangkok’s downtown, Suan Pakkad Palace is home to eight Thai teak pavilions that used to belong to Prince and Princess Chumbhot of Nagara Svagar and their descendents, one of which is the current Bangkok Governor Sukhumbhand Paribatra. The not-to-bemissed highlight of Suan Pakkad, apart from the beautiful authentic Thai objects and architecture, is the collection of 4,000-yearold historical artifacts from Ban Chiang district in Udon Thani at the ChumbhotPantip Center of Arts building.

Top tip: Exhibited on the second floor of the Center of Arts buildling is a collection of surrealist art masterpieces from veteran artist Princess Marsi Paribatra, a daughter of Prince Chumbhot, who’s now lives in France. 352-354 Sri Ayutthaya Rd., 02-2454934, 02-246-1775/6. Open daily 9am4pm. BTS Phyathai. Admission B150. www.suanpakkad.com

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Political Refuge Kukrit’s Heritage Home

Kukrit’s Home

It’s hardly to believe that in the middle of Sathorn’s commercial district you’ll find a beautiful, traditional Thai residence set in a tranquil two-acre garden. The complex consists of five traditional Thai teak villas, connected by an open veranda, that used to be the residence of former Prime Minister M.R. Kukrit Pramote. He acquired the teak villas, some of which are over a hundred years old, from all over Thailand in 1960 and had them transported to the capital. After he passed away in 1995, his family decided to preserve the villas to showcase the kingdom’s traditional architectural styles.

Top tip: Despite saying it’s on Sathorn Road, Kukrit’s Home is easier reached through Narathiwat Soi 7. The place is also open for wedding functions, for those looking for a very classic Thai setting for their special day. 19 Soi Phra Phinit, South Sathorn Rd., 02287-2937/8, 02-286-8185. Open daily 10am-4pm. Admission B50. www.kukritshousefund.com

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TCDC

Contemporary Creativity TCDC & BACC Bangkok is fast becoming a hub for design and creativity with a number of cuttingedge art spaces and galleries across town (see Art and Culture page 18). Top of the list are the Thailand Creative & Design Center (TCDC) and the Bangkok Art & Cultural Center (BACC). The TCDC sits on top of the upscale Emporium Shopping Complex and has a regular program of exhibitions, usually beautifully curated and designed to energize creative ideas and inspire original commercial ventures. It also houses a members-only library focused on design and the Kiosk Café which has great views over the park.

Situated right in the heart of downtown Bangkok, close to the city’s top shopping malls on Rama 1 intersection, the BACC is an impressive building whose curving walls and large atrium offer a clear nod to the Guggenheim in New York. The BACC presents a mix of contemporary art work by local and international artists in various techniques and styles, from paintings to media installations. It also plays host to workshops and seminars and is home to a number of small galleries and art related stores.

Top tip: The current photographic exhibition The Upside Down World of Phillippe Ramette at the BACC is a can’tmiss (through Apr 29), while The Shop@ TCDC store is a great place for quirky, design focused gifts. TCDC, 6/F, The Emporium, Sukhumvit 21, 02-664-8448. Open Tue-Sun 10am10pm. BTS Phrom Phong. Free. www.tcdc.or.th BACC, Rama 1 Intersection, 02-2146630/-8. Open Tue-Sun 10am-9pm. BTS National Stadium. Free. www.bacc.or.th

Tour de Bangkok Segway Tour Around Rattanakosin Exploring Bangkok’s Rattanakosin Island aka the old town can be a potentially sweaty and stressful experience by foot or bike, especially if you want to cover all the major sites. That’s why jumping on a Segway PT, can be a fun, practical alternative. These two-wheel electric vehicles are surprisingly easy to use and offer a very different way of getting around. In Bangkok, Segway Tour Thailand (www.segwaytourthailand. com) run a range of trips including a 1.5 hours, B1,900 tour of the old town, which takes in Sanam Luang, the Amulet Market, the City Pillar Shrine and Wat Pho. 8 W H E R E T H A I LAND I APRIL 2012

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Living Art Baan Silapin Also known as “The Artist’s House,” Baan Silapin is just that. A fellowship of artists bought a century-old wooden house on the banks of Bang Luang Canal (Khlong Bang Luang in Thai), the former home of a merchant family, and transformed it into an artist’s residence and public space where they could share their love of traditional Thai lifestyles. Baan Silapin is where to experience the “slow” life of old Bangkok, whether that’s simply relaxing by the canal, strolling around the ancient homes, sampling traditional drinks, shopping for art or catching the Thai puppet show. It truly feels a million miles away from the hustle and bustle of central Bangkok.

Top tip: If you have the time then the nicest way to get there is by hiring a longtail boat from Saphan Thaksin Bridge or Tha Tien Pier. Alternatively, catch the BTS to Wongwian Yai and then get a taxi from there to Soi Charansanitwong 3. Once you’ve arrived don’t forget to try the mango with sticky rice at the end of the Soi. Get there before 2pm to catch the daily puppet show (daily except Wed). 315 Wat Thongsala Ngam, Soi Petchakasm 28, Pasicharoen, 02-8685279. Open Mon-Tue 10am-6pm, WedFri 9am-6pm, Sat-Sun 9am-7pm. www.klongbangluang.com

Baan Silapin

Tour de Bangkok

Biking in Bang Krachao Situated just across the Chao Phraya River from Klong Toey Port, this protected area is known as the lungs of Bangkok and a visit here is like stepping back in time. Cycle along raised walkways past sleepy gardens, tropical plantations, ancient temples and floating markets. Bang Krachao can be reached by boat from Ta Chang and Spice Roads (02-712-5305, www. spiceroads.com) organizes a day or half-day tour for B1,000 and B1,650 with a pick-up service from your hotel.

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AROUND THAILAND

Courtesy of Tourism authority of thailand

Rest at Railay Krabi’s most famous beach has never lost its charm. By Top Koaysomboon

rock climbing at Railay

Over the years, Railay has grown from a peaceful fishing village to a world-class tourist destination. Imposing limestone cliffs shoot out of the crystal blue waters to tower over the white sandy beaches. The area of Railay is actually a large peninsula jutting out into the Andaman (see map), but what makes this place truly special is that it’s cut off from the rest of the mainland by a row of steep hills, which means you can only get there by boat.

KRABI RAILAY RAILAY WEST RAILAY EAST

Blessed beaches Railay actually covers three beaches, each with their own distinctive character. Railay West is the longest, featuring white sand and shallow water. Though it may be an ideal spot for sunbathing, do be warned that the southern-end, close to Rayavadee Resort (see Where to stay), is pretty rocky. Being the most popular, you’ll find a collection of resorts, restaurants and beach bars serving visitors. At the northern-end of Railay West, you’ll also find a tiny walking street where you can get cheaper street food like roti (a kind of pancake), noodles and basic Thai dishes. (Tip: do ask for the price before ordering, though.) Further north is Ton Sai Bay, a good spot for rock climbing and affordable rooms. Railay West, and Ton Sai, are at their most beautiful at sunset, when those cliffs are silhouetted against the sky.

PHRA NANG BEACH

Opposite Railay West is Railay East, which is really just part of a bigger mangrove swamp. This is usually the access point for long-tailed boats coming from Krabi and is where the budget accommodation options are situated. Though it’s not great for swimming, it’s the best place to catch a beautiful sunrise. Sitting between Railay West and East is Phranang Beach, named after the cave containing a sacred Buddha image that can be found on the beach. A lot smaller than Railay West and East, Phranang is the best beach for swimming, with clean, white powdery sand and crystal clear, shallow water. The trouble is this does mean it gets very busy with day trippers from Ao Nang town, though most normally disappear around 5pm.

Phranang beach

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Around thailand How to get there To Krabi: Air Asia (www. airasia.com) and Thai Airways (www.thaiairways. com) fly direct between Bangkok and Krabi. A roundtrip ticket is approximately B3,500 and B5,500, respectively. To Ao Nang: from the airport, there’s a shuttle bus to Ao Nang at B150/person.

Where to stay Resorts on Railay West, are more expensive but it’s worth it as you get a better view and a better beach. Rayavadee (from B12,000. 075-620-740, wwwrayavadee.com) is the best of the lot, and probably the most luxurious resort in Krabi. Its 102 two-story

To Railay: Railay is only accessible by boat. You can get a public long-tailed boat from Ao Nang Pier (B80/ person) or Nam Mao Pier (B80-100/person) but if you don’t want to wait for them to fill up then you can rent one of your own for about B700/one-way. The boat trip takes around 15 minutes.

Krua Phranang

cottages and villas are hidden underneath a lush grove of coconut trees and feature lots of local woods and sophisticated textiles, inspired by traditional southern-Thai culture. The authentic southern Thai food at the beachfront Krua Phranang restaurant is also recommended. Tips: • There are lots of monkeys on and around Phranang beach. Feeding them is not recommended and do take care of your belongings as they sometimes snatch things. • Always ask the price before ordering food outside of hotels to avoid any shocks when you get the bill.

Scaling the heights The towering limestone karsts that dominate the landscape mean Railay is a haven for international rock climbers, offering more than 700 different climbing trails and an annual festival this month (see Hot Dates, page 4). Popular climbing spots include the cliffs on Phranang Beach and those bordering Ton Sai Bay, though many also try climbing some of the offshore karsts for a real challenge. For those who want to learn, there are plenty of climbing schools in the area, we recommend Sea Cliffs (084-629-2173, www.railayrockclimbing.com) and Hot Rock (085-641-9842, www.railayadventure.com). Not into crampons and belays? You can still enjoy a panoramic view of the area by taking a jungle walk via a trail that starts next to Rayavadee Resort. It takes around 20-25 minutes and you get great views of a hidden lagoon and the surrounding hills from the top.

Advertorial

Sheraton Krabi Beach Resort

There’s only one place to stay if you’re looking to explore the idyllic islands, beautiful white sandy beaches and stunning scenery of the best kept secret of the Andaman Sea. Krabi offers all this and the luxury and serenity of the Sheraton Krabi is the perfect place from which to explore its many delights.

The Sheraton Krabi Beach Resort welcomes you to join them for an exciting new chapter of their journey. The grand renovation of all our rooms has now been completed and we are ready to welcome guests with a new level of luxury. Premium Sea-Facing Upgraded with all-new amenities and facilities, all rooms offer an unlimited sea view from your private terrace or balcony. Deluxe Club All rooms come with a spacious shower, a separate bathtub, a coffee machine, and a private balcony. Deluxe Suites Ideal for family travelers, these spacious suites feature two separate rooms with an elegant living area, a private terrace, and a bathroom with two separate showers and an oversized bathtub.

155 Moo 2, Nong Thale, Muang, Krabi 81000 Thailand Phone: (66)(75) 628000 Fax: (66)(75) 628028 www.sheraton.com/krabi

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Premium Suites The new Premium Suites offer a spacious contemporary setting inspired by ambiance of the ocean together with a living area, a private terrace, and a bathroom with a separate shower and oversized bathtub,. Premium Sea-Facing Suite The newly-renovated Premium Sea-Facing Suites feature sea views along with an elegant living area and a private balcony or terrace. Premium Suite with private pool The most luxurious room types in the resort: the newly-decorated Premium Suite boast a private pool as well as an ocean-themed living area and bedroom.

Guests staying in Deluxe Club Rooms, Premium Sea-Facing Rooms, Premium Suites, Premium Sea-Facing Suites and the Premium Suite with Private Pool also receive exclusive access to the Sheraton Club Lounge The lounge, a private space manned by our dedicated team features allday refreshments, afternoon tea, cocktail hours, and complimentary high speed internet access in designated areas.

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ESCAPES

Island News Grand openings, hot promotions and special events at Thailand’s top beach destinations

Jahn, Conrad Koh Samui

Y KOH SAMUI Red, White and Thais While it used to be tricky to find (and incredibly overpriced) in the past, wine is now truly experiencing a revolution in Thailand. Still, it might not be the easiest thing in the world to pair wines with the distinctive and diverse flavors of Thai food. Never fear, as help is at hand; well it is if you visit fine Thai restaurant Jahn, at the new Conrad Koh Samui. They’ve just hired Curtin Marsh as their Wine Programme Director to put together great wines from all over the world with their signature Thai dishes. Curtis is a wine guru from a renowned online site The Wandering Palate (www. thewanderingpalate.com) and has worked with leading chefs including Paul Bocuse, Samia Ahad and Tetsuya Wakuda. Reservations recommended. Open daily 6pm till late. Conrad Koh Samui, 49-9 Moo 4, Hillcrest Rd., Taling-Ngam, Koh Samui, 077-915-888. www.conradkohsamui. com

Wine tip If you can’t make it to Samui, or the Conrad, we managed to get wine expert Curtin Marsh to cough up a simple tip regarding pairing wine with Thai food: “Certain rosé and pinot noir wines can be very versatile throughout an entire meal, as a little sugar or richness in white wines and Champagnes can be appropriately soothing when it comes to the livelier, spicy heat in certain Thai dishes.”

More wine & dine options in Samui

9 Gems. Hidden away on one of the island’s hilltops, 9 Gems combines fusion food and tapas, with a breathtaking 360 -degree view so you can pair your choice of wine or bubbly with a stunning sunset. 141/190 Moo 6, Bophut, 077-256-125, 080-692-0520. Open Tue-Thu 4pm-midnight, Fri-Sun 4pm-2am. www.9gemssamui.com

Po-Lad Bistro. If you’re looking for a beautiful beachfront space to enjoy a serene glass of Shiraz then this newlyremodeled bistro fits the bill, thanks to its location, hidden away from the crowds up at the northern end of the island. The Tongsai Bay, 84 Moo 5, Tongsai Bay, Bo Phut, Koh Samui, 077-245-480. www.tongsaibay.co.th

Zazen. This classy French restaurant on Bophut beachfront is home to one of the largest wine cellars on the island. An intimate candlelit spot to savor the fine Mediterranean cuisine served up by French Executive Chef Cyrille Keyser. 177 Moo 1, Bo Phut, Koh Samui, 077-425-085. www. samuizazen.comx

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ESCAPES Y KOH SAMUI

Y PHUKET

Y HUA HIN

Action and Adventure The posh beach club-cum-resort Nikki Beach is currently offering two special packages for adventurous lovers. Guests of the four-night package (B23,000) will enjoy a beachside stay with breakfast, roundtrip airport transfers, a 60-minute Thai massage for two, a kayaking trip and a tour to Angthong Marine National Park, home to uninhabited islands and pristine coral reefs. Stay for seven nights (B56,500) and receive a fishing trip off Lipa Noi beach on a private long-tail boat, a safari tour through the jungle and the choice of a host of other activities like mountain biking, paddle boarding, scuba diving and kite surfing. Rates are for two people but exclusive of taxes and service charge. Nikki Beach, 96/3 Moo 2, Lipa Noi Beach, Koh Samui, 077-914-555. www. nikkibeachthailand.com

Bonus Box Already well known for its contemporary all-white décor, lively vibe and great sea views from its top deck, the upscale White Box now gives visitors another reason to visit. At B990 their current promotion gives you a choice of a three-course set menu or unlimited tapas with half-a-bottle of wine. Reserve a table for a complimentary pick-up from your hotel/resort. 245/7 Phra Baramee Rd., Kalim Beach, Phuket, 076-346-271. Open daily 5pm1am. www.whiteboxphuket.com

Siamese Moroccan There’s currently a bit of a craze for all things Moroccan in Thailand and it doesn’t seem to show any signs of stopping, as the newest Arabian-inspired resort, the Marrakesh Hua Hin Resort & Spa, has just opened its doors on Hua Hin beachfront. The Marrakesh houses 76 suites, with four types ranging from a 55-sq-meter Jacuzzi Suite to a 105-sq-meter Celestial Suite with a private alfresco rooftop. Touting a neoMoroccan interior design, it blends glittering mosaic tiles, bright colors (brick-orange and indigo-blue), wood-carved walls and modern comforts. Its Noo Ra spa has seven rooms tailored for signature treatments. Introductory rates are from B6,800 for a Jacuzzi Suite to B28,000 for a seaview Celestial Suite. 63/411 Petchakasem Rd., Hua Hin, Prachuab Khirikhan, 032-616-77. www.marrakesh-huahin.com

WHite box

Y KRABI

Fire and Rock Krabi’s Railay Beach has long been a leading destination for climbers thanks to its towering limestone cliffs and over 700 challenging climbing routes. This year, rock climbers will descend (or is that ascend) on Railay and Phranang Beach for the annual Krabi Rock and Fire International Contest. Taking place from Apr 16-17, a few days after Songkran there will be two different competitive categories: a lead climbing marathon and a speed climbing event as well as a fire dancing contest. More information at TAT Krabi Office, 075-622-163, 075-612-812. www. tourismthailand.org/krabi

Rock climbing at Railay

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Upcountry news New hotels, special events and great promos at Thailand’s rural retreats. Phanom Rung

Y BURIRAM

Ray of Light Sat atop Phanom Rung Hill in Buriram, Prasat Hin Khao Phanom Rong is one of the most significant Khmer temples in Thailand. The stone temple complex was built between the 10th and 13th century to pay homage to Shiva, a Hindu god. It was clearly built with an eye to the heavens, because every year for a few days in April, the sun becomes perfectly aligned with the temple’s 15 doorways at sunset and sunrise. For 2012, the natural phenomenon occurs at 6:03am on Apr 2-4 and at 5:17pm for Apr 5-7. To celebrate the annual event, there is a week-long festival with a variety of cultural activities, including religious ceremonies, a series of parades and traditional performances. Full details from TAT Contact Center 1672 and www.tourismthailand.org.

Thailand on the Go Information for travel in Thailand has now gotten more mobile with the launch by the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) of the Amazing Thailand application. Not only can you access recommended places to see, eat, shop and stay, as well as things to do, the app also offers a variety of fun games to play and learn about Thai culture. Go to mobile.tourismthailand.org from your smart phone to download the the app.

iPhone travel apps we love W Hotels This app gets you the latest deals and easy booking with W Hotels, but what we really love is its W Music section that lets you access tunes played at W hotels worldwide. A range of mixes curated by W-appointed DJs are categorized into living room, retreat, wet deck and after dark, so you can select an album to fit your mood or location.

Quintessentially City Guide You don’t need to be a member of Quintessentially, the luxury global personal assistant service, to try their selected offers. The app offers up a list of where to stay, when to go, where to eat, what to do and not to miss shortlists compiled by Quint’s team of professionals for several cities, including Bangkok.

XE XE, the world leader in currency conversion, lets you convert more than 300,000 currencies. That means it’s perfect to convert your home currency into Thai Baht with live, trusted rates. And when you’re done just reset the rates by shaking your iPhone. Download all for free at Apple App Store.

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ESCAPES Y SAMUT PRAKARN

Belated Songkran Over a week after the rest of the country finishes celebrating the Songkran Festival, the Mon people in Phra Pradaeng district of Samut Prakarn start their own celebrations. The event includes parades, music, shows and, of course, lots of water. This year, Songkran Phra Pradaeng will take place from Apr 27-29 in front of the Phra Pradaeng district office. More details at 02-463-4891 ext. 129-130.

Y KHAO YAI

Country House Khaoyai and its mountainous national park has long been a favorite quick break for Bangkokians looking to get some fresh air, cooler weather and a dose of nature. Only a two-hour drive from the capital, it is also blessed with lots of beautiful resorts. One of our favorites

is the Hotel des Artists, with its classic colonial-style facade and Victorian decor. They recently finished an extra eight villas, offering more space and privacy for a short getaway. A villa is B5,500 on weekdays and B6,500 on weekends. 4 Moo 17, Thanarat Rd., Khao Yai, Nakhon Ratchasima, 044-297444/742/-3. www.hotelartists.com

Y CHIANG MAI

Elephant Escapes Chiang Mai has long been recognized as one of the best spots in Thailand to celebrate Songkran, as residents and tourists can visit the numerous temples for sacred rituals before gathering around the city’s canal for epic water fights. Still you can escape the crowds by heading to the tranquil Rawee Waree Resort by the Mae Taeng River. They’re offering a special Songkran package that costs B7,777 for two persons for two nights and features daily breakfast, one high-tea set and one elephant riding session for two. If you really have a thing for elephants, then Away Suansuwan lets you spend the day with them. Guests booking a twonight package (from B7,550 for single and B10,750 for double occupancy) will get a hands-on chance to learn how Mahouts train and take care of their elephants. Rawee Waree, Mae Taeng, 053-317-539. www.raweewareeresort.com • Away Suansuwan, Mae Rim, 053-044-095. www.centarahotelsresorts.com

Elephants at Rawee Waree

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Hot Stuff

April in Thailand is hot and wet thanks to high summer and the nationwide Songkran water festival. Stay cool and stylish despite the elements with our essential selection. 1 Keep your feet safe and dry

4 This year swimsuits are all about

with these funky rubber shoes from Native, B2,390 each at Loft.

bright patterns even for guys, grab these trunks from Timo, B3,000.

2 Store your water-sensitive items

5 Vintage-style shades never go

in this handy water-proof bag. Free Form, B1,600 (large), B730 (small) at Loft.

out of fashion, Onion, B900.

3 Coral colors are a hot trend, especially for swimwear. Seafolly, B5,790 at Central Chidlom.

6 Trust us; wherever you go you’ll really need a towel. Esquire, B625; Nu cover, B379 at Central Chidlom.

7 This limited edition ODM DD129 Mysterious VII (B6,250) helps you stay on time for the fun, and yes it’s waterproof.

ESSENTIALS:

Central Chidlom. Ploenchit Rd., 02-793-7777. BTS Chid Lom Loft. 4-5/F, Siam Discovery Center, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-0328/-30. BTS Siam. www.loftbankok.com Timo. Try Paragon Selective Store, 2/F, Siam Paragon, 02-690-1000. BTS Siam. www.timotrunks.com Onion. Siam Vintage Section, opposite Chula Book Center, Siam Square, 081-174-4108. BTS Siam www.onionbkk.com ODM. Watch stores nationwide. Try Central Chidlom and Loft (address above) Special thanks to: Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumphini Park

6 4

5 2

1 7

PHOTOGRAPHy BY PATTRAYUTH PEANTHAM, STYLe BY WIL WIWAN AND PANITA THIRAPHAPONG

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where

the guide

DINING

Water Library

The new sister branch of the original venue in Chamchuri Square is taking the owner’s high foodie ideals to new heights with something totally revolutionary for Bangkok. A restaurant that serves a maximum of ten diners per night with a 12-course set menu using the very best ingredients that starts at 7.30pm on the dot and that’s prepared in front of you by an army of chefs from all over the world. It’s very sophisticated, very sexy and yes, it is a little on the expensive side, with prices starting at B6,600 per person and rising to B8,400 with wine pairings. The bar and terrace downstairs are also worth visiting to try the intriguing and delicious cocktails created by their Italian mixologist. Grass, Thonglor 12, Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-714-9292/-3. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-1am. ZB6

art + CULTURE........................................ 18-19 dining....................................................... 20-24 nightlife.........................................................25

shops + services.................................26-27 health + wellness..................................28

navigate.........................................................29 maps............................................................29-33

Note that the reference at the end of the listings (W S24, Z D3 etc) apply to the coordinates on the individual maps on pages 29-33. Listings without coordinates indicate locations not within the maps. APRIL 2012 I WHER E tha i l a n d 17

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Art+Culture BANGKOK

Art Exhibition Highlights

YOU ARE NOT ALONE — The ArtAids foundation and the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre present this contemporary art exhibition designed to help promote knowledge and change misconceptions surrounding HIV/ AIDS through the works of sixteen Thai and international artists. Through Apr 18. BACC, Rama I Rd, Pathumwan, 02-214-6630-1. BTS National Stadium. Open Tue-Sun 10am-9pm. www.bacc.or.th

THE UPSIDE DOWN WORLD ¬ As part of the ongoing La Fete, French cultural festival, this exhibition features the work of French sculptor and photographer Phillippe Ramette. Ramette captures himself dressed in a suit in a variety of gravity-defying postures, set against equally unlikely backdrops. Through Apr 29. Bangkok Art and Culture Center, Rama 1 Rd., 02-2146630. BTS National Stadium. Open Tue-Sun 10am-9pm. www.bacc.or.th

IN FEMININITY ¬ Four leading contemporary female artists from Thailand and the Philippines convey feminine expression, explore the essential role of women in contemporary society and challenge some of the continuing prejudices and oppression still felt by women all over the world. Through May 5. Tang Contemporary Art, Basement/F, Silom Galleria, 919/1 Silom Rd., 02-630-1114. Open Mon-Sat 11am-7pm. www.tangcontemporary.com

ART GALLERIES 100 TONSON GALLERY — With a prime location and well-designed space, this gallery doesn’t shy away from political topics and attracts leading artists. 100 Soi Tonson, Phloenchit Rd., 02-6841527. BTS Chit Lom. Open Thu-Sun 11am-7pm. www.100tonsongallery.com YN20

JIM THOMPSON ART CENTER — Set above the shop in the grounds of the famous American’s former home, this lofty space puts on excellent temporary exhibitions. 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, 02216-7368. BTS National Stadium. Open daily 9am-5pm. www.jimthompsonhouse.com YM15

NOSPACE GALLERY — This avante garde art space on the nightlife strip of RCA offers challenging exhibitions and acts as a venue for regular live music events. 21/108 Block D, Royal City Avenue (RCA), 02-641-4040. Open Mon-Tue 11am7pm; Wed-Sun 11-1am. www.nospacebkk.com

ARDEL GALLERY OF MODERN ART — This vast 720-square-meter space hosts visual and performing arts events. It also has a café; and runs art workshops and seminars. 99/45 Belle Ville, Boromratchonnanee Rd (Km 10.5), 02422-2092. Open Tue-Sat 10:30am-7pm, Sun 10:30am-5:30pm. www.ardelgallery.com

KATHMANDU PHOTO GALLERY — A four-floor gallery, which includes a specialty bookstore, focused on promoting the work of up-andcoming local photographers. 87 Soi Pan, Silom Rd., 02-234-6700. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open TueSun 11am-7pm. www.kathmandu-bkk.com XI11

THE QUEEN’S GALLERY — The focus of this gallery is often on royal and religious themes. 101 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd., 02-2815360/1. Open Thu-Tue 10am-7pm. www. queengallery.org WS27

BANGKOK ART & CULTURE CENTER (BACC) — The city’s center for contemporary art features regular exhibitions, seminars and art-related shops in its impressive 11-story structure. 939 Rama I Rd, Pathumwan, 02-214-6630-1. BTS National Stadium. Open Tue-Sun 10am-9pm. www.bacc.or.th YM16 GOSSIP GALLERY — This multifaceted space showcases contemporary pieces from both local and international artists. 3/F, Silom Galleria, 919/1 Silom Soi 19, 02-237-5568. BTS Surasak. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www. gossipgallerybkk72.com XI10 H GALLERY — Set in a beautiful late 19th century building, H Gallery offers a program of exhibitions representing emerging contemporary Asian artists. 201, Sathorn Soi 12, 081-3104428. BTS Surasak. Open Wed-Mon 10am6pm. www.hgallerybkk.com XH11

KATHMANDU PHOTO GALLERY

NATIONAL GALLERY — Housing both traditional and contemporary Thai art, the gallery displays works by Thai artists from the 17th century onwards. It’s showing its age but still features some interesting shows. 4 Chao Fah Rd, 02-2812224, 02-282-2639- 40. Open Wed-Sun 9am4pm. www.national-gallery.go.th WQ27

Silom galleria — This large mall hosts a range of modern Asian art under one roof. Highlight galleries include: the large Thai-focused Number 1 Gallery; Tang Contemporary Art, which covers modern Chinese art; and, Thavibu Gallery which features works by Thai, Vietnamese and Burmese artists. 919/1 Silom Soi 19, 02-2665454. BTS Surasak. The mall is open daily 10am-8pm, though some galleries have different opening times. XI10 SERINDIA GALLERY — Run by a publishing company, this gallery looks to focus on the art and culture of Asia, specifically the Himalayan region. OP Garden, Unit 3101-3201, 4-6 Soi Charoen Krung 36, 02-238-6410. Open TueSun 11am-8pm. www.serindiagallery.com XJ11 SOMBAT PERMPOON GALLERY — More of a shop than a gallery, this space stocks more than 10,000 fine and contemporary Thai art works. 12 Sukhumvit Soi 1, 02-254-6040. Open daily 9am8pm. www.sombatpermpoongallery.com XL21

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Art+Culture THAILAND CREATIVE & DESIGN CENTER (TCDC)— This center is home to a big art library, as well as temporary exhibitions on art, design and fashion specifically viewed from a creative and commercial standpoint. 6/F, The Emporium, 622 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-664-8488. BTS Phrom Phong. Open Tue-Sun 10.30am9pm. www.tcdc.or.th ZC4 GALLERY VER — Owned by renowned artist Rirkrit Tiravanija, this gallery promotes experimental and conceptual art from local and overseas artists. 200/1 Ko Dang Rod Fai Kao (Rod Fai Night Market) Kamphaengphet Rd., 089-9885890. Open daily 1-7pm. www.galleryver.com. V64 — More than 60 artists from Section 7 at Chatuchak Weekend Market teamed up to transform a three-acre space into a large art center, which features studios, a gallery, an art academy, shop and restaurant. 143/19 Chaengwattana Soi 1 Yak 6, Bhangkhen. Open daily 9am-6pm. www.v64artstudio.com

decorated by millions of tiny seashells and Chinese porcelain. Arun means morning and the temple is best viewed at dawn or sunset from the opposite bank. Arun Amarin Rd. Wat Arun Pier. WP22 Wat traimit Wittayaram — Home to the world’s largest golden Buddha image, this white marble temple also houses the Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Center. Near Odeon Circle, Soi Charoen Krung 37. Open Tue-Sun 8am-5pm. Wat phra kaeo (Temple of the Emerald Buddha) — Situated in the compound of the Grand Palace, this important religious site is home to Thailand’s most revered religious icon the Emerald Buddha, carved from solid jade. You also shouldn’t miss the exquisite mural paintings on the walls surrounding the compound. Na Phra Lan Rd. Open daily 8:30am-3:30pm. B400. Maharaj Pier. WQ25

WHITESPACE GALLERY — Founded by an American architect and Thai artist Maitree Siriboon, the narrow space at this design studio provides a platform for the works of emerging artists. 2/F, Lido Bldg, 260 Siam Square Soi 3, 02252-2900. BTS Siam. Open Tue-Fri 1pm-7pm, Sat-Sun 11:30am-8pm. www.whitesp-cegallery. com YM16

art and antiques in the country. Don’t miss the restored courtyards with their fragrant gardens. Na Phrathat Rd., 02-215-8173. Open Wed-Sun 9am-4pm. Admission: B50. www. nationalmuseums.finearts.go.th WQ27 ROYAL BARGE MUSEUM — Eight of the more than 50 boats that make up the royal barge processions are displayed here. The must-see is the Suphannahong, or Golden Swan, with its huge, golden figurehead prow. Pinklao Bridge Pier, Thonburi, 02-424-0004. Open daily 9am5pm.B30. WP27 SUAN PAKKAD PALACE — This former royal household once belonged to their Royal Highnesses Prince and Princess Chumbhot of Nagara Svarga. Its eight Thai-style houses showcase sculptures, furniture and traditional instruments from the Rama V period. 02-354 Sri Ayudhya Rd., 02-246-1775/6 ext 229. BTS Phaya Thai. Open daily 9am-4pm. B100. www. suanpakkad.com VIMANMEK PALACE — With 12 separate museums in the compound, you could easily spend the day here. The site houses the royal museums of photography, clocks, textiles and silk, but the gorgeous teak buildings are the real draw. Strict dresscode (see their website for details). Ratchawithi Rd., 02-628-6300/9. Open daily 9:30am-4pm. B100. www. vimanmek.com

attractions funarium — This giant indoor soft play area is a great option for those parents looking for somewhere safe for the kids to blow off steam. Offering painting, bike riding, roller blading and cooking as well as regular shows and two large play areas there’s plenty for the kids to do. 111/1 Sukhumvit 26, 02-665-6555. www.funarium. co.th. Open daily Mon-Thu 9am-7pm, Fri-Sun & Public Holidays 8:30am-8:30pm. B180-300 for kids and B90 for adults for three hours. Grand palace — One of the best known and most stunning landmarks in the city, the compound is home to a collection of royal palaces, which blend European and Thai architecture as well as Wat Phra Kaeo (see below). Na Phra Lan Rd. Open daily 8:30am3:30pm. Free tours in English available at 10am, 10:30am, 1:30pm and 2pm. B400. Maharaj Pier. WQ25

V64

MUSEUMS JIM THOMPSON HOUSE — The former home of CIA agent and savior of Thai silk, Jim Thompson, is a beautifully preserved complex of six traditional Thai-style houses from all over the country containing his art and antique collection of sculptures, paintings and porcelain. There is also an exhibition space, restaurant and shop. 6/1 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Rd., 02-216-7368. BTS National Stadium. Open daily 9am-5pm.B100 for adults, B50 for students and children. www. jimthompsonhouse.com YM15

siam ocean world — Southeast Asia’s largest aquarium features more than 30,000 marine creatures and 400 aquatic species. Highlights include the underwater tunnel, penguin enclosure and the glass bottom boat tour. Basement, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd.,02-687-2000. BTS Siam. Open daily 10am-10pm. B900 for adults, B700 for children. YM17

KAMTHIENG HOUSE — This 200-year-old Northern Thai Lanna-style wooden house contains a collection of traditional agricultural tools and sits in the grounds of the Siam Society, which also holds regular lectures, seminars and workshops. Siam Society, 131 Sukhumvit Soi 21 (Asoke), 02-661-6470. BTS Asoke. Open TueSat. 9am-5pm. B100 for adults, B50 for children. www.siamsociety.org ZB3

rattanakosin exhibition hall— Also known as Nitas Rattanakosin, this exhibition center traces the history of Bangkok from the late 18th century to the present day. Don’t miss the stunning view from the rooftop. Ratchadamnoen Rd., 02-621-004. Open Tue-Fri 11am-8pm, SatSun 10am-8pm. B100. WS26

MUSEUM SIAM — The old Ministry of Commerce is now an innovative, technology-driven museum that takes you on a journey through the history of Siam via an array of multimedia presentations and interactive panels. 4 Sanamchai Rd., 02-2252777. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm.B300. www. museumsiam.com WQ23

Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn) — One of the city’s best known landmarks is home to the 76-meter-tall prang (Khmer-style tower),

NATIONAL MUSEUM — Formerly the “second king’s” palace, this gorgeous property houses some of the most extraordinary architecture,

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dining BANGKOK

Thompson Bar & Restaurant

Thompson Bar & Restaurant Located in the beautiful complex of traditional teak villas that make up the former home of the Siamese silk expert Jim Thompson, the open-air restaurant sat by a small lotus pond and its adjoining air-con dining room have been serving up authentic and delicious Thai food and simple Western dishes to hungry tourists for years. Trouble was the kitchen always used to shut at 5pm, at the same time as the museum. With a new extended closing time of 11pm, you can now dine in this refined atmosphere, feasting on classic Thai dishes like som tam gung sod (papaya salad with shrimps), yam som o (pomelo salad) and stir-fried beef with fresh black pepper. 6/1 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Road, 02-612-3601. www.jimthompson.com. Open daily 9am-5pm, 7-11pm. YL15

DOWNTOWN Boqueria — French/Italian. $$$$ This venue focuses on classic dishes with a Mediterranean leaning. G/F, CRC Tower, All Season Place, 87/2 Witthayu Rd., 02-685-3930/1. BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-10:30pm. YN21 Drinking Tea, Eating rice — Japanese. $$$$ Stylishly simple in design, this restaurant allows the food to take center stage. Choose from top-quality sushi, sashimi, teppanyaki and kaiseki options, and wash it down with their extensive sake collection. 3/F, The Conrad Hotel, 87 Witthayu Rd., 02-690-9999. BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-11pm. YN21 D’Sens — French. $$$$ The French-imported eatery by the Michelin-starred Pourcel brothers has all the oomph one might expect. The dimly-lit dining room is ultra-chic, and the food is bold and exciting. 22/F, Dusit Thani Hotel, 946 Rama 4 Rd., 02-200-9000 ext. 2499. BTS Sala Daeng. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10pm. XF10 Eat Me — International. $$$$ The décor is a cool yet cozy mélange of industrial, natural and artistic. The kitchen pulls off original combinations, and the cocktails are perfection. 1/6 Phiphat Soi 2, Convent Rd., 02-238-0931. BTS Sala Daeng. Open daily 3pm-1am. XG11

Erawan tea room — Thai. $$$$ With a classy oriental décor, five-star service and a fine tea selection, Erawan Tea Room also impresses with its authentic Thai dishes and monthly-themed menus. 2/F, Erawan Bangkok, Ploenchit Rd., 02254-1234. Open daily 10am-10pm. YN18 Gianni Ristorante — Italian. $$$$ “Gianni’s,” as it’s referred to by most, has earned its following with consistently outstanding food, an elegant atmosphere and smooth service. 34/1 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd., 02-652-2922. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily noon-2:30pm, 6-10pm. YN20 Gaggan — Indian. $$$$ After a brief stint at the research facility of El Bulli, Chef Gaggan Anand developed this exciting menu interpreting regional Indian dishes with solid, traditional flavors and wow-worthy techniques. 68/1 Soi Langsuan, 02652-1700. BTS Chit Lom. 6pm-midnight. YO19 Grossi TrattoriA — Italian. $$$$ Backed by celeb-Australian chef Guy Grossi, this is no hotel restaurant—thanks to its bistro-vibe, soaring ceilings and earthy cuisine. G/F, InterContinental Hotel, 973 Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-0444. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 11:30am-3pm, 6:30-10:45pm. YM19

La Monita Taqueria — Mexican. $$ Handsdown the best place for a quesadilla or fish taco. The décor and service aren’t much, but you won’t care after your third reposado margarita. Mahatun Plaza, 888/26 Phloenchit Rd., 02-650-9581. BTS Phloen Chit. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am-10pm. YM21

Price guide $ $$ $$$ $$$$

Under B400 B400-700 B700-1,000 B1,000 and up

Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course, dessert, charges and tax.

Area guide Downtown covers the Silom, Sathorn and Siam neighborhoods Lower Sukhumvit covers the area from BTS Chit Lom to Sukhumvit Soi 19 Upper Sukhumvit covers the area from BTS Asoke to Sukhumvit Soi 53

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dining

Medici — Italian. $$$$ Tuscan-born chef Francesco Lenzi whips up his hometown’s specialties surrounded by a neo-industrial interior that is reminiscent of 1910 Chicago. Hotel Muse, 55/555 Langsuan Rd., 02-630-4006. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm. 6pm-midnight. YN19

Niu’s — Italian. $$$$ Muted tones, crisp white tablecloths and large windows let the inventive and delicious Italian food take center stage. Niu’s also has an extensive wine list and top-name jazz acts downstairs. Baan Silom, 661 Silom Rd., 02266-5333. Open daily 5pm-1am. XI10

Nahm — Thai. $$$$ Former holder of a Michelin star, David Thompson’s Nahm serves a fiery, multi-course set menu, which offers plenty of tasty and authentic choices. Metropolitan, 27 South Sathorn Rd., 02-625-3333. Open daily noon-2pm, 7-11pm. XG13

Reflexions — French. $$$$ Elegant but edgy, with its raw black-and-white photographs of Bangkok, Reflexions is authentic French food without the stuffiness. Chef Thibault Chiumenti cooks with an eye for tradition and bold flavors. 3/F, Plaza Athénée, 61 Witthayu Rd., 02-650-8800. BTS Phloen Chit. Open Tue-Sat 6-11pm. YN21 Ruen Urai — Thai. $$-$$$ Set in an old Thai house, decorated in a blend of contemporary furniture and rare Thai crafts, it offers a polished menu of solid recipes. Rose Hotel, 188, Surawong Rd., 02266-8268/-72. Open daily noon-11pm. XG8 Shintaro — Japanese. $$$ Located in a corner of the high-end hotel, this cozy restaurant draws the glam crowd. The food is equally trendy, with dishes like sushi-pizza and California rolls. G/F, Four Seasons Bangkok, 155 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-251-6127. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5-10:30pm. YN18

bonjour

Firehouse

Dining Hood>

Sukhumvit Soi 11

As well as being party central in Bangkok, thanks to some of Bangkok’s leading clubs, Sukhumvit Soi 11 is also home to an array of tasty food options ranging from Thai to tapas; and the list of places to eat before you hit the dance floor seems to be expanding daily. Here are our top picks of the latest openings: Two houses down from Bed Supperclub, Oskar Bistro (02-255-3377; open daily 6-11pm) is a restaurant with a slightly clubby vibe thanks to the party crowd and live DJ but it also serves up some excellent bistro food from duck parmentier (a kind of shepherd’s pie) to more simple pastas and burgers. Those who crave a beef patty could also check out the quirky Firehouse (02-651-3643; open daily 11:30-3am. www.firehousethailand.com). As the name suggests it’s decked out in a fiery red and features the owners impressive, and surprisingly quite lovely, firefighting paraphernalia from around the world. It’s fast become a favorite among Bangkok’s dedicated burger afficionados. Meanwhile further up the street, in fact tucked down a tiny little soi that’s also home to the iconic Cheap Charlie’s Bar, there are two more new eateries. Snapper (02-651-1098; open Tue-Sun 5pm-midnight) touts itself as Bangkok’s first NZ-style fish and chip bar and serves up interesting fish options, like the fleshy and strongly-flavored Tarakihi or the slightly milder Southern King Fish in a simple seafood shack-inspired shophouse. Finally, a couple of doors down you’ll find Chez Pape (Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-255-2492; open Mon-Sat 4pm-midnight; Sun 11am-10pm) a small, cozy Paris-style brasserie that serves up authentic French classics with a real focus on country-style dishes like jambon a l’os cuit dans son foin (slow cooked ham in hay) and slow roasted lamb stew with garden vegetables. Sukhumvit Soi 11, BTS Nana.

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dining Sra bua — Thai. $$$$ The sister of Michelinstarred Kiin Kiin in Copenhagen, offers up Thai food with a contemporary, almost molecular, twist in a soaring palace dotted with rice fields. Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok, 991/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02162-9000. BTS Siam. Open daily noon-11pm. YL17 Taling Pling—Thai. $$-$$$ This old favorite sees Bangkokians rub shoulders with tourists to enjoy classic Thai dishes and some lesser known options in a charming old house. 60 Soi Pan, Silom Rd., 02-234-4872. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open daily 11am-10pm. XI11

NEW >

Dine in the Dark

A popular trend in the world’s major cities now arrives in Bangkok. This fine-dining experience is all about depriving you of your sense of sight in order to heighten your other five senses. Choose between meat, seafood or vegetarian—no other details—and then step into complete darkness where visually-impaired staff serve as your personal guides and waiters, leading you to your table and helping you feel around for the plates of food and drinks. The three-course set menu is B750-B850. 10% of profits are donated to foundations for the visually-impaired. 2/F, The Ascott Sathorn, 02-676-6676. Open daily 7:30-11:30pm. BTS Chong Nonsi. XH13

Zuma — Japanese. $$$$ Their generous salads mix avocado and fresh sushi. The bar is made from a single, monumental slab of stone and the garden is air conditioned. G/F, St. Regis Hotel, 159 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-636-0002. Open Mon-Sat noon-3pm, 6pm-10:30pm. YN18

Kuppa — International. $$$ Best-known as a lunch venue, Kuppa’s reliable menu of pastas, salads, desserts and great coffee has changed little over the years. Throw in comfy couches and floor-toceiling windows, and you’ve got one chill spot. 39 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02-663-0495, 02-663-8806. Open daily 10am-10:30pm. ZD3 Ma du zi Restaurant by Yuyai — Japanese. $$$ With a stint at a Joel Robuchon restaurant in Tokyo, Japanese Chef Yuya Okuda’s food is very recognizably French, only with very light, very subtle exotic touches. Maduzi Hotel, 9/1 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02-615-6400. MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 11am-2pm, 6-10pm. ZD3

Lower Sukhumvit

ROSAbieng — Thai. $-$$ This two-story wooden house-turned-restaurant is a great place for those seeking an introduction to Thai food, thanks to its broad menu of properly executed dishes. 3 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-253-5868. BTS Nana. Open Mon-Sat 11am-11pm. ZB1

11 Gallery — Thai. $-$$ Set in a charming old wooden home down a bustling little soi, this popular spot serves up traditional Thai dishes in quaint tiffin boxes. 1/34, Sukhumvit Soi 11, opposite Ambassador Hotel, 02-651-2672. BTS Nana. Open daily 10-1am. ZB1

Seafood Bar — Seafood. $$$ Owned by an oyster importer, this restaurant features 20 types of oysters and a range of perfectly grilled fish dishes cooked with a modern American approach. Somerset Lake Place, 41 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02663-8863, Open Tue-Sat 6-11pm; Sun noon-3pm, 6-10pm. BTS Asok. ZD3

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dining

Upper Sukhumvit Bacco — Italian. $$$ This relaxed, slightly rustic eatery packs in the diners nightly, thanks to its extensive menu of authentic regional specialties. 35/1 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-6624538. BTS Thong lo. Open Mon-Fri 11:30am3pm, 5:30pm-midnight; Sat-Sun 11:30ammidnight. ZC6 Bo.Lan — Thai. $$$ Chefs Bo and Dylan offer a traditional approach to Thai food, presented in a contemporary style and served in a stylish house-turned-restaurant. Opt for the Bo.lan balance, a degustation menu that changes seasonally. 42 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-260-2962. Open Tue-Sun, 6:30pm- midnight. ZD5 Curries and More by Baan Kanitha — Thai. $$$-$$$$ Choose from the hip wine bar or the beautiful cream-colored house to enjoy dishes that range from traditional favorites to fusion offerings. 31 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-2598530/-5. BTS Thonglor. Open daily 11am-11pm. ZC6

Indus — Indian. $$$ An ambient spot with a beautiful backyard, the kitchen also does a good job serving up much lighter versions of the usual favorites like biriyani, kebabs and tikkas. 71 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-258-4900, 02-661-5279. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-10:30pm. ZE5

ISao — Japanese. $$$-$$$$ Despite the standard izakaya facade, Isao offers something different—Japanese cuisine with distinctly American twists, thanks to the chef’s apprenticeship at the Green Tea sushi bar in Chicago. 5 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-258-0645/6. Open Mon-Fri 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-10pm, SatSun 11am-10pm. ZC4

THONGLOR/ EKKAMAI 4 Garcons — French. $$$ Cooked by a Thai doctor, this classic French fare is served in a warm and elegant atmosphere. 1/F, Oakwood Residence, 113 Thonglor Soi 13, 02-713-9547. Open daily 11:30am-10:30pm. ZB6 Bonjour — French. $$$$ Fine French dishes are served in a bourgeois villa that boasts velvet lounge chairs and a small tropical garden. 1217/2 Sukhumvit Soi 59, 02-714-2112. BTS Thonglor. Open daily 6pm-1am. ZC6 Fuzio — Italian. $$$$ Classic Italian recipes are mixed with just enough modern touches to suit the locale and clientele. A rooftop location and contemporary décor make for a special experience. 6/F, Mini Showroom, 99/99 Ekkamai Soi 7, 02-711-6999. Open daily 11:30am2:30pm, 6-10:30pm. ZB7

NEW >

Benihana

Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa has just unveiled a head-to-toe revamp of their tepanyaki-style Japanese restaurant Benihana, giving the place a bold black-and-red look with a modern twist. Their teppanyaki offerings combine fresh ingredients, an entertaining cook and savory sake-based cocktails, while the private rooms overlook a Zen-style garden. Try the Deadliest Catch Teppan Set (B1,750), which includes Alaskan crab claw, snow fish, parma ham and vegetables. Anantara Bangkok Riverside, 257/1-3 Charoennakorn Rd., 02-476-0022. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm. Free shuttle boat from Sathorn Pier/BTS Saphan Taksin.

Stressed?

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dining Harvey — American, International. $$$$ A very popular spot with the town’s movers and shakers the food encompasses modern interpretations of American, French and Italian. 129 Thonglor Soi 9, 02-712-9911. Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 6-11pm. ZB6

Khun Churn — Thai/Vegetarian. $-$$ This family-run eatery, tucked away in the relatively quiet Bangkok Mediplex, has a classy-yet-casual atmosphere and serves up a menu of down-toearth yet delicious meat-free Thai meals. G/F, Bangkok Mediplex Bldg, Sukhumvit Soi 42, 02713-6599. Open daily 10am-8pm. ZD7 Phuket town — Thai. $-$$ Phuket Town whips up solidly traditional Southern-style dishes like kanom chine namya poo (rice noodle with crab curry) and pad sataw goong (stir-fried sataw with shrimp) in a bright and quirky setting that has plenty of Sino-Portuguese touches. Corner of Thonglor Soi 6, 02-714-9402. Open daily 10:30am-10:30pm. ZC6

Surface — French. $$$ Their outdoors vibe, thanks to the conservatory style interior and the daybeds set out among their vegetable garden, matches the overall farm-to-table concept of Surface: classic French dishes from produce that they’re largely growing themselves. 107 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-258-2858/7597. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 6-11pm, Sat-Sun 10am-2pm. ZB6 Xuan mai — Vietnamese. $$$ Probably the best Vietnamese restaurant in Bangkok, this is where former beauty queen-then-FBI agent chef Meyung Robson sources the best ingredients, often direct from Vietnam, and cooks them perfectly from traditional recipes. Try the bahn mo thit (Vietnamese sandwich) and cha ca Hanoi (grilled cat fish). 351/3 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-185-2619. Open Tue-Sun 11am-2:30pm, 6-11pm; Fri-Sat 11:30am-midnight; Sun 11:30am-10pm. ZA6

Soul Food Mahanakorn — Thai. $$-$$$ Soul Food dishes out very strong, original signature cocktails, as well as a brief menu of well executed Thai regional dishes. The combo has a heady effect on the hip crowd and the place is packed most nights. 56/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-714-7708. BTS Thonglor. Open daily 6pmmidnight. ZC6 Xuanmai

Riverside the deck — Thai/International. $$$ Book in advance for one of the best spots, out on the 2nd floor terrace and enjoy the amazing view of Wat Arun across the river. The well-executed menu covers Thai and European dishes. Arun Residence, 36-38 Soi Pratu Nokyung, Maharat Rd., 02-221-9158. Open Mon-Thu 7am-10pm, Fri-Sun 7am-11pm. WQ23 Le Normandie — French. $$$$ The Mandarin Oriental’s showcase restaurant has set the standard for service and cuisine for years—and the river views aren’t bad. The Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave., 02-659-9000. Open Mon-Sat noon-2:30pm; daily 7-10:30pm. XJ11 supatra Riverside — Thai. $$$$ Situated on the Thonburi side of the Chaopraya River the view of Wat Arun and the Grand Palace from the terrace of this Thai house is amazing. There’s regular cultural performances and a range of classic Thai dishes. Note: get there via the free boat transfer from Maharaj Pier. 266 Soi Wat Rakhang, Arunamarin Rd., 02-411-0305. Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 5:30-11pm. WP26 Venice Vaniche — Thai. $$$ Sat meters from the Grand Palace, this restuarant offers some great views, a pleasant breezy terrace on the second floor and a large menu of classic Thai dishes. 1/12 Soi Maharaj, Maharaj Rd., 02-2228082. Open daily 11am-midnight. WP26

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BANGKOK nightlife

Bed Supperclub One of the (many) reasons for Bed Supperclub’s enviable reputation is their regular rotating performances that takes place during their dinner service. The latest by their creative team is a homage to Pina Bausch’s hugely influential piece, Café Müller, with dancers bumping into and falling off chairs. The sets range from a cocktail party gone wrong to surreal tableaux and burlesque explorations of movement. And if that sounds too high-brow, rest assured it’s also laugh-out-loud funny at times. “In

Bed with Pina” is performed daily during dinner, from 8-10:30pm. 26 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-651-3537. Through May 31. Note: Bed operate a strict door policy In bed with pina, at Bed supperclub

Downtown

ThongLor/Ekkamai

Hyde & Seek — Elevated pub grub, arguably Bangkok’s best cocktail menu and a décor that conjures up both Victorian drawing room gravitas and NYC sophistication—it’s no wonder this place is so popular. Athénée Residence, 65/1 Soi Ruamrudee, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-168-5152-3. BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily 11-1am. YM21

Clouds — The futuristic vision is certainly striking— from the undulating ceiling, sporting anything from roses to Barbie dolls, to the acrylic seating inset with leaves. Potent cocktails from the laboratory of a bar add to the techno-ecoinspired theme. G/F, Seenspace, 251/1 Thonglor Soi 13, 02-185-2365. Open daily 6pm-2am. ZB6

Oskar — A comforting menu, a long list of drinks and a great DJ mean this bistro, in the heart of club land, has fast become a popular spot for preclub drinks. 24 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-255 3377. Open daily 4pm-2am. ZA1

Iron Fairies — Like no other bar in Bangkok, it actually looks more like a Dickensian factory, thanks to the crumbling brick walls and scattering of ancient, industrial machinery that by day is used to make fairies. Yes, fairies. A great live band and powerful cocktails make this place even more special. 394 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 084-520-2301. BTS Thonglor. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-2am. ZB6

Q Bar — The Soi 11 institution continues to deliver a heady mix of bass lines and international DJs. Its large outdoor patio is a great spot to kick back with friends, while the downstairs level, featuring a serious dance floor and three bars, is perfect for serious beat and booze addicts. 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-252-3274. Open daily 8pm-1am. ZA1 The St Regis Bar — With a great New York Mad Men vibe and impressive views, this spot also boasts a daily champagne sabrage and their Thai take on the bloody mary. 12/F, The St. Regis Bangkok, 159 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-207-7777. BTS Ratchadamri. Open daily noon-1pm. www.stregis. com. YN18

Riverside Viva & Aviv — Fitting for its riverside location, this new venue has a rustic-yet-relaxed nauticallyinspired theme. Soak up the river view and enjoy inventive and well-made cocktails and pub grub. River City Complex, 23 Yota Rd., 02-639-6305. Open daily 11am-midnight. www.vivaaviv.com

Mellow — Another popular spot for dining and drinking, Mellow has proved a huge hit with young, well-off locals. They’re attracted by the warm, wood-heavy décor with beams and brick walls, friendly staff, comfort food and delicious cocktails. 1/F, Penny’s Balcony, Thonglor Soi 16, 02-382-0064. Open daily 11-1am. ZA6 Wine Republic — They take their vino seriously here, with a wall of bottles and informed staff to talk you through your purchase. The dark spit-and-sawdust interior and breezy outdoor terrace get very busy on weekends. Thonglor Soi 10, Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-714-7599. Open daily 5:30pm-1am. ZA6 WTF — A collaboration between an art curator, a hip hotelier and a photojournalist, WTF is actually a hybrid bar and exhibtion space that’s incredibly popular with Bangkok’s creative expats and local hipsters. 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-662-6246. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-1am. ZC5

so make sure to take ID with you. ZA1

New >

Zaks Sukhumvit 11, the home to club giants Bed Supperclub and Q Bar, has always been a nightlife haven, but it’s clearly going through something of a renaissance, with a host of new bars and restaurants (see dining page 20) springing up over the last few months. The latest arrival is this affordable, but stylish, wine bar set in a lovely wooden two-story house. Behind the white façade, you’ll find a simple, relaxed setting that offers subtle details like the rustic chandeliers and wooden ceilings. The wine is clearly the star here, though, with a range of labels from 20 different importers. House wines start from just B100 a glass and bottles from as little as B1000, not to mention their signature cocktails (B190-250), created by restaurant manager Keoma, a mixologist from Rome. Try the Cinnamon Mojito or Grey Ginger. It all makes this a great spot to start off your night out down this always buzzing street. 19 Sukhumvit Soi 11. BTS Nana. Open daily 6pm-2am. ZA1

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ShopS+Services BANGKOK

Lanvin

Bangkok a la Mode Bangkok has always been a must-go destination for shoppers. The city has everything covered, from the cheap and chic at Chatuchak Weekend Market to the world’s leading labels at Bangkok’s downtown luxury malls. Now there’s more good news for those who covet the best in high fashion with the recent arrivals of French fashion label Lanvin and New York’s wunderkind Alexander Wang at Erawan Bangkok (494 Ploenchit Rd., 02-250-7777. BTS Chit Lom). Meanwhile, The Emporium (Sukhumvit 24, 02-269-100. BTS Phrom Phong) has just welcomed the significantly expanded Christian Dior boutique to its ground floor, while the Prada store at Siam Paragon (Rama 1 Rd., 02-610-8000. BTS Siam) has recently reopened sporting a striking a Milano-style décor. The mall has also just welcomed Thailand’s third Louis Vuitton store on its M floor.

Downtown Amarin Plaza — The mall’s Greco-Roman facade actually hides some unexpected gems. ID1 on the first floor holds an interesting collection of local designers, while the Thai Craft Market on the third floor is good for souvenirs. 496-502 Ploenchit Rd., 02-650-4704. BTS Chit Lom. www.amarinplaza.com YM18 Central Chidlom — The closest thing Bangkok has to Harrod’s, Central Chidlom, first opened in 1973 and remains the Central Group’s flagship department store. It’s packed with leading brands, like Bottega Venetta, DVF, Coach, Paul Smith and Gucci. Don’t miss the impressive Food Hall on the ground floor and the views from the international food court, up on the seventh. 1027 Ploenchit Rd., 02-7937777. BTS Chit Lom. www.central.co.th YM19 CentralWorld — Southeast Asia’s largest lifestyle shopping complex is home to seven floors, or 550,000 sq meters, of restaurants, cinemas and stores. It’s a good spot for top brands like Topshop, Gap and Uniqlo, as well as Thai favorites like Singha Life and Disaya. Ratchaprasong Intersection, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-635-1111. BTS Chit Lom/Siam. www. centralworld.co.th YM18

Erawan Bangkok — This mini-mall might look petite, but its three floors offer some high-end boutiques you can’t find elsewhere, including unique Club 21 stores, like Yohji Yamamoto, Dior Homme and Lanvin. 494 Ploenchit Rd., 02-250-7777. BTS Chit Lom. www.erawanbangkok.com YM18 Gaysorn — Thailand’s leading high-end mall is home to numerous luxury international labels (Louis Vuitton, Dior, Prada, Fendi and Celine) and Thai brands like Sretsis, Disaya, Zenithorial and Panpuri. 999 Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1149. BTS Chit Lom. www.gaysorn.com YM18

Gaysorn

MBK Center — Clothes, sneakers, suitcases, cameras, mobile phones and souvenirs—you can find it all here and all at bargain prices. As a result,the confusing chaos of MBK is packed with haggling tourists. Be warned: cheap doesn’t always mean good. Still it’s fun and there’s a popular Thai food court on the 6th floor. 444 Phayathai Rd., 02-620-9000. BTS National Stadium. www.mbk-center.co.th YM16 Pantip Plaza — A heaven for tech and IT lovers, the rather grungy-looking seven floors are dedicated to gadgets and gizmos. You’ll find countless little stalls selling computers, laptops, mobile phones, printers, mainboards, cameras, electronic appliances and selections of bootleg DVDs. Not all of it is legitimate, but most items are usually a lot cheaper than elsewhere. 604/3 Petchaburi Rd., 02-250-1555. BTS Ratchathewi. www.pantipplaza.com YK17 Platinum Fashion Mall — Platinum is Bangkok’s wholesale fashion shopping center and the biggest source for the city’s street and market stalls. You can find everything fashionrelated from women’s shoes to men’s suits. And don’t worry about having to buy wholesale, as even single items are very cheap. 222 Petchaburi Rd., 02-121-8000. BTS Ratchathewi. www. platinumfashionmall.com YK18

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ShopS+Services Siam Center — One of the longest-standing shopping malls in Bangkok, it remains a favorite with teen shoppers, thanks to a recent facelift and the cool, cutting-edge local brands that call it home. Siam on Third (3/F) features established Thai fashion designers, while Mob.F (4/F) lets the new wave showcase their work. Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000. BTS Siam. www. siamcenter.co.th YM17 Siam Paragon — With a prime location next to the city’s busiest BTS station, its towering glass façade contains a huge selection of stores, from Hermes and Chanel to street favorites like Mango and Zara, plus Siam Ocean World, Southeast Asia’s biggest aquarium, a bowling alley, a concert venue and a cinema. As well as lots of restaurants, there’s also a food court in the basement. 991 Rama 1 Rd., 02-690-1000. BTS Siam. www.siamparagon.co.th YM17 Siam Discovery Center — The sister mall of Siam Center just celebrated its 10th anniversary with an overhaul, which included the addition of lots of new eateries as well as the opening of an ice-skating rink and a Madame Tussaud’s wax museum. It also remains the place to come for Thai furniture brands. Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000. BTS Siam. www.siamdiscoverycenter.co.th YM16

Sukhumvit

Elsewhere

MARKETS

Crystal Design Center — Designer chairs, platinum faucets, leather sofas and a lot more home décor products are the main draw for CDC Phase 1, while Phase 2 is filled with restaurants and bars, cute cafés, fashion boutiques and home décor stores. It’s not the easiest place to get to, though: we recommend a taxi from MRT Lad Phrao. 1420/1 Praditmanutham Rd., Klongchan, 02-101-5999. www.crystaldesigncenter.com

Ratchada Night Market — Apart from vintage cars, motorbikes, bicycles and parts, you’ll find old and new home décor items, secondhand books, fashion apparel, handcrafted products and even some lethal cocktails at the 200-plus stalls. Ratchadapisek Rd. MRT Ladprao. Open Sat, 7pm-1am.

OP Place — Situated in a beautiful neoclassicalstyle building close to the river, this gorgeous luxury mall oozes charm from the sweeping wooden staircase to the antique semi-manual lift. The plushly-carpeted halls are home to a host of high-end boutiques offering unique and rare antiques and artifacts from across South East Asia, hand crafted jewellery, bespoke tailors and fine art. The Ashwood Gallery that occupies the whole third floor is home to some particularly striking pieces. There’s also a free shuttle service to the neighboring OP Garden (see box Charoenkrung Road). 30/1 Soi 38, Charoenkrung Rd., 02-2660186. Open daily 10:30am-7pm. XJ11

Chatuchak Market — Better known by locals as JJ, Chatuchak is one of the world’s largest weekend markets. More than 15,000 retailers occupy the 27-acre space, which is broken down into 27 sections, roughly categorized by the products on offer. You can literally spend the weekend here amid the rabbit warren of stalls, but if you have limited time, then this is the general breakdown: Books are in Section 1, while Sections 2-4 are home to young fashion designers. Sections 5-6 have vintage clothing, and you’ll find art in Sections 7-9. Sections 10-24 offer a real mix of miscellaneous stuff, while Sections 25-27 are dedicated to crafts and home-decor items. Corner of Phahonyothin and Kamphaeng Phet Roads. BTS Mo Chit/Saphan Kwai, MRT Kamphaeng Phet. Open Sat-Sun 10am-7pm. www.chatuchak.org

Shopping Walk>

The Emporium — Set in the heart of the city’s upscale residential area (home to Bangkok’s largest Japanese community), The Emporium offers luxury shopping without the crowds, thanks to their tenant portfolio, which includes brands like Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Chanel and Prada, along with Thai favorites like Jaspal, Thann and Jim Thompson. There are also lot of eating options, a cinema and the Thailand Creative Design Center. 622 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-269-1000. BTS Phrom Phong. www.emporiumthailand.com ZC4 Terminal 21 — Bangkok’s newest shopping complex boasts an airport terminal-cuminternational destinations theme. As you travel through the nine floors you can stop off at the Caribbean, Rome, Paris, Tokyo, London and Istanbul. The lower floors are dedicated to high-street chains, while the higher floors offer a host of intriguing boutiques by Thai designers. There’s also a food court, restaurants and a cinema. 2-88, Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-108-0888. BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit. www.terminal21. co.th ZB3

Charoen Krung Road

Start from River City, which is both a mini-mall and auction house with a focus on Asian antiques where you could get anything from Burmese lacquerware to a pair of Thai Naga snakes. On your way down Captain Bush lane, swing by the small row of warehouses home to PTendercool (massive, sculptural tables made locally) and Warp 54 Studio (pop portraits with an Asian focus). On Charoen Krung Road itself, you’ll walk past a multitude of antiques, jewelery and tailor shops catering to the riverside hotels’ guests—beautiful stuff, but it doesn’t come cheap. Pop into O.P. Garden for a visit to Serindia Gallery (a top-notch showcase of mostly Tibetan and Himalayan art and photography), then make your way to The Mandarin Oriental where Lotus Art de Vivre stocks some of the most refined craftsmanship in Thailand.

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HEALTH+WELLNESS bangkok So SPA Bangkok’s newest luxury hotel, the glamorous Sofitel So Bangkok, has just unveiled its exclusive sanctuary So SPA. Perched on the 11th floor overlooking Bankok’s green oasis, Lumphini Park, the spa’s design manages to draw in that leafy ambiance and translate it into the Himmapan Forest from Thai mythology, covering the 600-sqmeter space with woods, dark colors and a soothing water feature. Its introductory signature treatment is the Serenity of Five Elements (B3,400), featuring 90 minutes of oil massage and herbal compresses. 11/F, Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 North Sathorn Rd., 02SO SPa

624-0000. MRT Lumphini. XF12

SPA BODY TUNE — The menu here is short, sweet and to the point: foot reflexology, hand, Thai and oil massage. But what they do, they do well. We prefer the quieter Silom branch. 56 Yada Bldg., 2/F, Silom Rd., 02-238-4377. BTS Sala Daeng. • Sukhumvit branch: 49 Sahai Place Bldg., Sukhumvit 24, 02-661-0077. BTS Phrom Phong. Open daily 10am-midnight. www.bodytune.co.th XG10

I.SAWAN — With its Tony Chi design, the i.sawan Residential Spa & Club and its residential cottages and treatment bungalows is one of the most beautiful spas in Bangkok. It also houses a fitness club, tennis and squash courts and a 25-meter pool. 5/F, Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok, 494 Rajdamri Rd., 02-254-1234. Open daily 6am11pm. www.bangkok.grand.hyatt.com YN18 ELEMIS SPA — The Elemis Spa is a first in SE Asia and only the fourth in the world. Its extravagant setting—the city view from the couples’ room is breathtaking—and the ancient Arabian sauna in their Rassoul Chambers are highlights. 15/F, The St. Regis Bangkok, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-207-7777. BTS Ratchadamri. Open daily 10am-10pm. www. stregis.com/bangkok YN18 HEALTH LAND — Health Land has built its sizeable reputation on a blend of affordable prices and expert masseuses. There are branches throughout town. 120 North Sathorn Rd. , 02-637-8883. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open daily 9am-11pm. More branches: www.healthlandspa.com XG13 LET’S RELAX — With branches in tourist destinations around Thailand, and a wide variety of packages and trained masseuses, Let’s Relax is a popular day spa. 6/F, Terminal 21, Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-6626935/-37. BTS Asoke, MRT

Sukhumvit. Open daily 10am-midnight. More branches: www.letsrelaxspa.com ZB3 MULBERRY SPA — Set in a 60s-style residential compound, Mulberry Spa offers all the usual selection of treatments amid a classy-yet-cozy ambiance. 132 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-664-1888. MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 9am-11pm. • Silom branch: 346/8-10 Silom Rd., 02-630-9888. BTS Sala Daeng. Open daily 10am-10pm. www. mulberryspa.com ZB3 THE ORIENTAL SPA — As sophisticated as the hotel, The Oriental Spa offers four specialty suites, ten private rooms and a huge variety of treatments, covering everything from Thai to Hawaiian therapies. Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, Oriental Ave, Charoen Krung Rd., 02-659-9000. Open daily 9am-10pm. www.mandarinoriental. com/bangkok/spa XJ11 PaNPURI ORGANIC SPA — Hidden behind the shelves of high-end beauty store Panpuri are the two small treatment rooms of the high-end spa. The small-but-beautiful space welcomes you with black stone and gold mosa ics and a host of treatments using exclusive organic products. Lobby Level, Gaysorn, Ploenchit Rd., 02-6561199. Open daily 10-8pm. www.panpuri.com IM18

S MEDICAL SPA — Founded by a renowned local anti-aging physician, the award-winning spa creates real beauty from within, with a selection of integrated wellness programs. 2/2 Bhakdi Bldg., Wireless Rd., 02-253-1010. BTS Ploenchit. Open daily 10am-9pm. www.smedspa.com YL20 SPA BOTANICA — Surrounded by the lush gardens of the Sukothai Hotel, Spa Botanica is an urban retreat. Their signature spa treatments span two hours and combine the best of oriental massage

options. 13/3 South Sathorn Rd, 02-2344-8900. Open daily 9am-10pm. www.sukhothai.com XG13 THANN SANCTUARY SPA — THANN Sanctuary offers a variety of treatments based on THANN world class spa products within a tranquil space bathed in warm grey and soothing lights. 3/F, Gaysorn, Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1424. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 10-9pm. www.thann.info YM18 TRIA — Tria is not just a spa: this sanctuary, hidden behind Piyavate Hospital, is a rejuvenation center offering integrated programs. With more than 50 treatment rooms, there are also hydrotherapy pools, a restaurant and residences for long-term treatments. 998 Ronkhlongsamsen Rd., 02-6602602. Open Mon-Fri 7-10am. Closes Sat 9pm, Sun 8:30pm. www.triaintegrativewellness.com

traditional thai massage A major tourist attraction, Wat Po is just as as famous for its massage school as it is for its 46-meter-long Reclining Buddha. Never mind that there’s usually a long wait and little privacy once you’re inside: massage treatments at this traditional Thai massage school never ceases to attract those who want the real deal. Wat Po’s history as a center for Thai massage dates back to 1843, when King Rama III commissioned 60 diagrams depicting various massage techniques to be inscribed on the temple’s marble walls. If you feel inspired to learn the art yourself, enroll in the temple’s training classes. Wat Po (Wat Prachetuphon), 2 Sanamchai Rd., Phra Nakhon, 02-2254771. Open daily 8am-6pm. www.watpomassage. com WQ24

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Ratchadamri ÃÒª´ÓÃÔ Queen Sirikit National Conv. Centre ÈÙ¹Â »ÃÐªØÁáË‹§ªÒµÔÊÔÃÔ¡ÔµÔ์

Yaowarat Rd. Hua Lamphong ËÑÇÅÓâ¾§

Tha Tien ·‹ÒàÃ×Í·‹ÒàµÕÂ¹

Ratchaprarop ÃÒª»ÃÒÃ¶

Sam Yan ÊÒÁÂ‹Ò¹

Silom ÊÕÅÁ

Lumphini ÅØÁ¾Ô¹Õ

On Nut Í‹Í¹¹Øª

Khlong Toei ¤ÅÍ§àµÂ

Sala Daeng ÈÒÅÒá´§

Ratchawong ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÃÒªÇ§¤

Bang Chak ºÒ§¨Ò¡ Punnawithi »Ø³³ÇÔ¶Õ

Udom Suk ÍØ´ÁÊØ¢

Si Phraya ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÕ¾ÃÐÂÒ

Chong Nonsi ª‹Í§¹¹·ÃÕ

Oriental ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍâÍàÃÕÂ¹àµÅ

Bang Na ºÒ§¹Ò

Central Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÐ¾Ò¹¡ÃØ§à·¾

To Wongwian Station

Krung Thon Buri ¡ÃØ§¸¹ºØÃÕ

Saphan Taksin ÊÐ¾Ò¹µÒ¡ÊÔ¹

Surasak ÊØÃÈÑ¡´Ô์

Chao Phraya áÁ‹¹้Óà¨ŒÒ¾ÃÐÂÒ

Bearing áºÃÔ่§

Bangkok Overview Key

Vachirabenchathat Park (Suan Rodfai)

Victory Monument

Main road

Chatuchak

Thailand Cultural Center

BTS (Sukhumvit Line)

Vimanmek Mansion

Yaowarat (China Town)

BTS (Silom Line)

Anantasamakhom Mansion

Central Rail Station (Hua Lamphong)

MRT

Khaosan Road

Lumpini Park

Airport Rail Link (ARL)

Grand Palace / Temple of The Emerald Buddha

Queen Sirikit Nation Convention Center

River/Klong (canal)

Wat Po

Siam Paragon Shopping Center

Pier

Wat Arun

Bangkok Art and Culture Centre

APRIL 2012 I WHER E T H A I L A N D 29

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3/23/12 6:46 PM

Navigate GET MOVING

nerve-wracking (and physically-challenging). And, due to the unsavory nature of the canal (klong) water, any view is blocked by sheets of tarpaulin to prevent splashing. Fares are between B9 and B19, depending on distance and are purchased on board.

AIRPORT LINk—The Airport Rail Link (ARL) is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to get to and from Suvarnabhumi Airport, especially for those travelling light. There are two types of trains: Express Line and City Line. The ARL Express Line runs from Suvarnabhumi to either Phaya Thai (connecting to the BTS) or Makkasan stations (connecting to the MRT, but it’s a long walk to MRT Petchaburi), and takes 15 minutes. The City Line stops at six stations and takes around 30 minutes. THAI Airways passengers boarding the Express Line can check their bags at Makkasan City Terminal. Fares are B15-B45 for City Line and B90 for Express Line. More information at airportraillink.railway.co.th.

from here and stopping off at numerous piers all the way to Nonthaburi. Fares range from B9 to B32 depending on distance. You can also opt for a tourist ticket (B150), which allows one-day unlimited travel and comes with an excellent guide booklet to some of the leading tourist attractions accessible from the river.

BUSES—The bus is a popular (if slow) budgettravel choice in Bangkok. The Bangkok Mass Transit Authority (BMTA) operates an extensive number of routes throughout Bangkok and its nearby provinces. There are two types of buses: non-air-con and air-con. Fares for non-air-con buses are B6.5-7.5 while fares for air-conditioned buses are B10-23, depending on the distance. Fares are paid to on-board staff, who rarely speak English. Visit www.bmta.co.th for a list of routes and schedules.

CANAL BOATS—While Bangkok used to be the Venice of the East, there is now only one canal still used as a means of getting around. Klong Saen Saep canal has a ferry service that runs daily from Ban Kapi in the Eastern suburbs to Phu Khao Thong or the Golden Mount in the heart of the Old Town, stopping off at various piers along the way. Be warned though, the boats don’t wait long at the piers, making getting on and off rather

TO BANG SUE STATION

C Ë

Terminal 21 ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ à·ÍÁÔ¹ÍÅ 21

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Major Cineplex Sukhumvit

Ekkamai àÍ¡ÁÑÂ

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Soi Sukhumvit 20 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 20

Soi Sukhumvit 16 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 16

Thong Lo

18 Benchasiri Park

Rain Hill ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ àÃ¹ÎÔÅ

Soi Sukhumvit 24 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 24

Phrom Phong

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Soi Sukhumvit 40 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 40

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Benchakitti Park

Sukhumvit 51

Soi Sukhumvit 14 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 14

Soi Sukhumvit 12 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 12

Soi Sukhumvit 10 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 10

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Soi 53

Sukhumvit Times Square ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ä·Á Êá¤ÇÃ

F 4

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30 W H E R E thailand I april 2012 15

TO MO CHIT STATION

18 Petchaburi Rd. ¶¹¹à¾ÃªºØÃÕ

Ratchathewi

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Pantip Plaza ¾Ñ¹·Ô¾Â ¾ÅÒ«‹Ò

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3/23/12 6:46 PM

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Soi Sukhumvit 63 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 63

2 Seen Space

Soi Sukhumvit 55 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 55

Prommit Hospital âÃ§¾ÂÒºÒÅ¾ÃŒÍÁÁÔµÃ

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Soi Sukhumvit 38 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 38

TO MO CHIT STATION

Soi Sukhumvit 49 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 49

Robinson ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ âÃºÔ¹ÊÑ¹

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Soi Sukhumvit 39 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 39

Soi Sukhumvit 31 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 31

Soi Sukhumvit 23 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 23

Soi Sukhumvit 19 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 19

Soi Sukhumvit 15 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 15

Soi Sukhumvit 13 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 13 1

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stations for buses out of town. The Northern Bus Terminal or Mo Chit (02-936-2841/-3) is located a taxi ride from Mo Chit BTS /Kamphaeng Phet MRT and services Northern and Northeastern Thailand as well as some Eastern destinations. The Eastern Bus Terminal (02-391-2504) is located right by BTS Ekamai and has buses departing to

frequent and cheap ferries along the Chao Phraya River are a great way to get a different perspective on the city, as well as a good option for getting to many of the temples and palaces built along the river. The main Sathorn (Central) pier is located by BTS Saphan Taksin with boats heading upstream

«ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 11

Soi 11

Bamrungraj Hospital âÃ§¾ÂÒºÒÅ ºÓÃØ§ÃÒÉ®Ã

Soi Sukhumvit 3 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 3

Sukhumvit

Intercity BUSES—There are three main

EXPRESS RIVER Boats—These fast,

Soi Sukhumvit 36 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 36

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silom

Chamchuri Square ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ¨ÒÁ¨ØÃÕÊá¤ÇÃ

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11 Lumpini Park ÊÇ¹ÅØÁ¾Ô¹Õ

Si Lom ÊÕÅÁ

Chulalongkorn Hospital âÃ§¾ÂÒºÒÅ¨Ø¿ÒÅ§¡Ã³

Lumphini ÅØÁ¾Ô¹Õ

Rama 4 Rd. ¶¹¹¾ÃÐÃÒÁ·Õ่ 4

Sala Daeng

Soi Sala Daeng «ÍÂÈÒÅÒá´§

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Wat Arun ÇÑ´ÍÃØ³

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Wat Pho ÇÑ´â¾¸Ô์

Ratchawong Pier ·‹ÒÃÒªÇ§¤

Soi Ruam Rudi «ÍÂ Ã‹ÇÁÄ´Õ

26 27 skytrain/underground— The

13 Bangkok Skytrain (BTS) stops at Bangkok’s main Wang Lang Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÇÑ§ËÅÑ§ districts and gives you a bird’s eye view of the city. There are two main lines: the Silom Line, which runs from across the river in Wong Wian Yai to National Stadium; and the Sukhumvit Line, which runs from Soi Bearing in the eastern part of the city along Sukhumvit before heading up north to the Mo 11 by the Chatuchak Market. Siam is the Chit station interchange station between the two lines.

The underground, or 10 MRT, is one line but has an Phra Athit Pier ·‹Ò¾ÃÐÍÒ·Ô µÂ extensive reach, from Hua Lamphong train station on the outskirts of Chinatown, down through the Wat Chana Songkram ÇÑ´ª¹ÐÊ§¤ÃÒÁ main Central Business District before turning

Wat Suthat ÇÑ´ÊØ·ÑÈ¹

TOURIST INFORMATION TO BEARING STATION

Central Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÐ¾Ò¹¡ÃØ§à·¾

TAXIS—Bangkok metered taxis are readily avail4 able and very affordable, with fares starting from Wat Phra Kaeo B35 for the first two kilometers. Despite their many ÇÑ´¾ÃÐá¡ŒÇ colors, there’s no difference in prices and service. Some drivers speak limited English, so do get your destination written down in Thai to avoid any miscommunication. Taxis sometimes try to negotiate a Rajapardit price. Make sureWatÇÑ´ÃÒª»ÃÐ´Ô to pay the metered price. Éonly °

Chit

Pattaya, Rayong, Koh Samed and Trat. 24 25 Finally, the 35 Southern Bus Terminal or Sai Tai (02-894-6122) is Tha Phrachan Pier Tha Tien Pier ·‹Ò¾ÃÐ¨Ñ¹·Ã ·‹ÒàµÕÂ¹ located across the river at Thonburi on Borom40 ratchachonnanee Road and services Western (Kanchanaburi) and Southern Thailand, including the islands of Phuket and Samui.

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Saphan Taksin

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Si Phraya ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÕ่¾ÃÐÂÒ

St. Louis Hospital âÃ§¾ÂÒºÒÅà«¹µ ËÅØÂÊ

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Soi Sukhumvit 42 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 42

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Narathiwat Ratchanakharin Rd. ¶¹¹¹ÃÒÃÔÇÒÊÃÒª¹¤ÃÔ¹·¸Ô์

Sathorn Tai Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒ·ÃãµŒ

Surawong Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃÇ§È

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Si Lom Rd.

Soi Sukhumvit 63 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 63

Silom Soi 4

TO BANG SUE STATION

Sathorn Nuea Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒ·ÃàË¹×Í

TO HUA LAMPHONG STATION

Police Station Ê¶Ò¹ÕµÓÃÇ¨

Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) — The Tourism Authority of Thailand is ready to answer all your questions about traveling in Thailand and the leading tourist destinations. The TAT headquarters is on Petchaburi Road (1600 New Petchaburi Road, Makkasan, Ratchathewi, 02-250-5500. MRT Petchaburi). They have visitor centers at Ratchadamnoen Road (Ratchadamnern Nok Rd., 02-356-0650. Open daily 9am-5pm) and Suvarnabhumi Airport (1/F, near Gate 3, 02-134-4077. Open 24 hours). You can also phone their call center at 1672 or log into www.tourismthailand.org for detailed R information. TheIndiawebsite also has a comprehensive description of the month’s events and festivals, as well as vacation packages, e-newsletters, trip Emporium ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ The Old Siam Plaza ÍÔ¹à´ÕÂ àÍ็Áâ¾àÃÕÂÁ planning tools and downloadable handbooks. ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ´Ô âÍÅ´ ÊÂÒÁ World For emergencies, contact the TouristËŒChina Police 24-hour call center (1155). Ò§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒä«¹‹Ò àÇÔÅ ´ B u

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Soi Sukhumvit 16 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 16

Arena 10

16 ally from 8:30am to 3:30pm, 41 Monday through

Friday except on public holidays and bank holidays. Banks in36malls open daily, 10am-8pm. The main banks are: Bankgok Bank (1333, www.bangkokbank. com), Bank of Ayudhya (1572, www.krungsri.com), CIMB Thai (02-626-7777, www.cimbthai.com), 7 27 Kasikorn Bank (02-888-8888, www.kasikornbank. 10 3 com), Kiatnakin Bank (02-680-3333, www.kiatnaParklane ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ 33 ¾ÒÃ ¤àÅ¹ kin.co.th), Thong Lo Krungthai Bank (1551, www.ktb.co.th), ·Í§ËÅ‹ Í Siam Commercial Bank (02-777-7777, www.scb. 5 co.th), Standard Chartered Bank (1595, www. Major Cineplex Sukhumvit standardchartered.co.th), Thanachart Bank (1770, Ekkamai àÍ¡ÁÑÂ www.thanachartbank.com), Tisco Bank (www. tisco.co.th), TMB Bank (02-299-1111, www.tmbbank.com), United Overseas Bank (02-285-1555, TO BE ARIN G STAT 19 ION www.uob.co.th).

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20 TUK-TUK— Tuk-tuks are a noisy but fun way

Soi Sukhumvit 42 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 42

Soi Sukhumvit 40 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 40

ÊÇ¹ÊÒ¸ÒÃ³àºÞ¨¡ÔµµÔ

Soi Sukhumvit 36 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 36

Queen Sirikit National Convention Center ÈÙ¹Â »ÃÐªØÁáË‹§ªÒµÔÊÔÃÔ¡ÔµÔ์

Benchakitti Park

Soi Sukhumvit 26 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 26

Soi Sukhumvit 24 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 24

of getting 31 around Bangkok, not to mention great photo opportunities. However, there is no guaran4 Ekkamai Bus Terminal tee of beating the infamous traffic and you should Ê¶Ò¹Õ¢¹Ê‹§àÍ¡ÁÑÂ agree on a price before getting in. Haggle hard and ATMS—ATMs are very common in Bangkok be wary of any cheap offers if you don’t want an and can be found in most areas of Thailand, often 17 unexpected trip to a tailor or gem store. located outside of 7-Eleven convenience stores. You should easily be able to use overseas cards to withdraw money.

TO MO CHIT STATION

TO HUA LAM PONG STATION

Siam

Surawong Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃÇ§È

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Soi Sukhumvit 63 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 63

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Fares are B15-B40 for both trains. Tickets can Phrom Phong be bought for individual journeys, or you can get ¾ÃŒÍÁ¾§É Rain Hill special one-day tourist passes or tickets that cover ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ àÃ¹ÎÔÅ a specified number of trips. For more information, 18 go to www.bts.co.th and www.bangkokmetro.co.th. Note that the BTS and MRT use different ticketing The Benchasiri Emporium Park systems. ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ 23 Soi Sukhumvit 20 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 20

Soi Sukhumvit 14 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 14

Soi Sukhumvit 12 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 12

Times Square ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ä·Á Êá¤ÇÃ

Soi Sukhumvit 10 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 10

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Soi Sukhumvit 55 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 55

There are interchange stations between the MRT and BTS at Sukhumvit (MRT)/Asoke (BTS) and SilomSukhumvit (MRT)/Sala Daeng (BTS).

TO HUA LAMPHONG STATION

Soi 53

North and heading up Ratchadapisek Road past Prommit Hospital Chatuchak Market and ending at Bang SueâÃ§¾ÂÒºÒÅ¾ÃŒ station. ÍÁÁÔµÃ

Soi Sukhumvit 49 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 49

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Sukhumvit 51

Soi Sukhumvit 38 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 38

Terminal 21 ËŒÒ§ÊÃÃ¾ÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ à·ÍÁÔ¹ÍÅ 21

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Soi Sukhumvit 4 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 4

Samitivej Hospital âÃ§¾ÂÒºÒÅÊÁÔµÔàÇª

Soi Sukhumvit 22 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 22

Soi Sukhumvit 31 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 31

Soi Sukhumvit 23 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 23

Soi Sukhumvit 19 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 19

Soi Sukhumvit 15 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 15

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Soi 11

Bamrungraj Hospital âÃ§¾ÂÒºÒÅ ºÓÃØ§ÃÒÉ®Ã

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18 Petchaburi Rd. ¶¹¹à¾ÃªºØÃÕ

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3 28

14 24

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9 6

Sarasin Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒÃÊÔ¹

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32 W H E R E thailand I april 2012

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Wat Arun ÇÑ´ÍÃØ³

Memories Bridg ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÐ¾

Soi Ruam Rudi «ÍÂ Ã‹ÇÁÄ´Õ

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22 rattanakosin

13 Wang Lang Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÇÑ§ËÅÑ§

Tha Phrachan Pier ·‹Ò¾ÃÐ¨Ñ¹·Ã

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1. 11 Gallery Z B1 2. 4 Garcons Z B6 3. Bacco Z C6 4. Bo.Lan Z D5 5. Bonjour Z C6 6. Boqueria Y N21 7. Curries and More by Baan Kanitha Z C6 8. D’Sens X F10 44. Dine in the Dark X H13 9. Drinking Tea, Eating rice Y N21 10. Eat Me X G11 11. Erawan tea room Y N18 12. Fuzio Z B7 13. Gaggan Y O19 14. Gianni Ristorante Y N20 15. Grossi Trattoria Y M19 16. Harvey Z B6 17. Indus Z E5 18. Isao Z C4 19. Khun Churn Z D7 20. Kuppa Z D3 21. La Monita Taqueria. Y M21 22. Le Normandie X J11 23. Ma du Zi Restaurant by Yuyai Z D3 24. Medici Y N19 25. Nahm X G13 26. Niu’s X I10 27. Phuket Town Z C6

Hospital

Pier

Dining

Shopping

Spa/Wellness

Democracy Monument

Bura

Temple

28. Reflexions Y N21 29. Rosabieng Z B1 30. Ruen Urai X G8 31. Seafood Bar Z D3 32. Shintaro Y N18 33. Soul Food Mahanakorn Z C6 34. Sra Bua Y L17 35. Supatra Riverside W P26 36. Surface Z B6 37. Taling Pling X I11 38. The Deck W Q23 39. Thompson Bar & Restaurant Y M15 40. Venice Vaniche W P26 41. Water Library Z B6 42. Xuan mai Z A6 43. Zuma Y N18

Nightlife

1. Bed Z A1 2. Clouds Z B6 3. Hyde & Seek Y M21 4. Iron Fairies Z B6 5. Mellow Z A6 6. Oskar Z A1 7. Q Bar Z A1 8. The St Regis Bar Y N18 9. Wine Republic Z A6 10. WTF Z C5 11. Zaks Z A1

Heath & Wellness

1. Body Tune X G10 2. Elemis Spa Y N18 3. Heath Land X G13 4. i.sawan Y N18 5. Let’s Relax Z B3 6. Mulberry Spa Z B3 7. Panpuri Organic Spa Y M18 8. S Medical Spa Y L20 9. So SPA X F12 10. Spa Botanica X G13 11. Thann Sanctuary Spa Y M18 12. The Oriental Spa X J11 13. Wat Po W Q24

Shopping

Amarin Plaza Y M18 Central Chidlom Y M19 CentralWorld Y M18 Erawan Bangkok Y M18 Gaysorn Y M18 MBK Center Y M16 OP Place X J11 Pantip Plaza Y K17 Platinum Fashion Mall Y K18 Siam Center Y M17 Siam Discovery Center Y M16 Siam Paragon Y M17 Terminal 21 Z B3 The Emporium Z C4

Art & Attractions

1. 100 Tonson Gallery Y N20 2. Bangkok Art & Cultural Center (BACC) Y M16 3. Gossip Gallery X I10 4. Grand Palace W Q25 5. H Gallery X H11 6. Jim Thompson Art Center & House Y L15 7. Kamthieng House Z B3 8. Kathmandu Photo Gallery X I11 9. Museum Siam W Q23 10. National Gallery W Q27 11. National Museum W Q27 12. Rattanakosin Exhibition Hall W S26 13. Royal Barge Museum W P27 14. Serindia Gallery X J11 15. Siam Ocean World Y M17 16. Silom Galleria X I10 17. Sombat Permpoon Gallery X L21 18. Thailand Creative and Design Center (TCDC) Z C4 19. The Queen’s Gallery W S27 20. Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn) W P22 21. Wat Phra Kaeo (Temple of the Emerald Buddha) W Q25 22. White Space Gallery Y M16

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tea al’s

the g local ket in

30 Things we LOve about Thailand

!8 1 Exploring the rich Lanna culture and amazing ancient temples on the charming streets of Chiang Mai. 2 Discovering Michelin-Starworthy, traditional Thai dishes at David Thompson’s Nahm (G/F, Metropolitan, 02-625-3333).

@2 9 Exploring the home of secret agent and silk tycoon Jim Thompson (6 Soi Kasemsan 2, 02-216-7368), a complex of gorgeous Thai teak pavilions packed with Asian antiques. !0 Discovering the natural delights of

@5 !6 Hunting for antiques along

@4 Taking a coffee-roasting

Charoenkrung Road in Bangkok.

course at the Doi Chaang (www. doichaangcoffee.com) plantation in Chiang Rai.

!7 Sitting ringside for a Thai boxing match at Lumpini Stadium (Rama IV Rd., MRT Lumpini, www. muaythailumpini.com).

Phu Kradueng National Park in Loei.

!8 Savoring a glass of rare vintage

4 Offering alms to monks in the morning mist of Chiang Khan, on the banks of the Mekong River.

6 Experiencing the eerie beauty of the sacred Wat Rong Khun (aka The White Temple) in Chiang Rai.

7 Drinking a cocktail while admiring Bangkok’s skyline from the 44th floor at Long Table Bar (02-302-2557/-9. www.longtablebangkok.com).

8 Learning how to kite surf on the breezy unspoilt beach at Pranburi, try Air Stylers Kite School (www. airstylers.com).

Koh Samui to explore the 40 stunning tropical islands of Angthong Marine National Park.

Moët & Chandon Champagne at The St. Regis Bar (12/F, The St. Regis Bangkok, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-2077777).

!2 Traversing the famous bridge and

!9 Getting up early to experience the

drinking in the memories along the River Kwai in Kanchanaburi.

floral delights and organized chaos of Pak Klong Talad flower market.

!3 Dining on freshly caught crab

@0 Enjoying tasty street eats from the

and challenging Championship level course at Mission Hills Phuket (www.missionhillsphuket.com).

and mackarel at the beachfront seafood restaurant Platoo (241/44 Ruamchit Rd., 032-451-355. www. platoorestaurant.com) in Hua Hin.

numerous stalls to be found in China Town’s Yaowarat Road.

@8 Walking Phuket Town’s heritage

@1 Taking a long tail boat to Freedom

trail and experiencing the unique Sino-Portuguese architecture.

!4 Escaping the stresses of modern

Beach, the wonderfully inaccessible (and peaceful) beach in Phuket.

@9 Getting up close to a gentle giant

living at one of Bangkok’s meditation centers (Try www.bia.or.th).

@2 Spending a whole day of

5 Getting lost in the maze of alleys at Chatuchak Weekend Market (BTS Mo Chit/MRT Kamphaeng Phet).

@5 Setting out on a boat trip from

Cuvee de Siam while looking out over the rolling hills at Hua Hin Hills Vineyard (081-701-0222).

3 Browsing for cutting-edge fashions !1 Sipping a glass of Monsoon Valley from the exciting young designers at Mob F (4/F, Siam Center, BTS Siam).

!5 Getting a glimpse of what Bangkok used to be like with a klong tour around the old canals (klongs) of Nonthaburi from Saphan Taksin Pier.

pampering with a wide selection of treatments at i.Sawan (5/F, Grand Hyatt Erawan, 02-254-1234).

@6 Feasting on a five-star hotel Sunday brunch, with lobster, foie gras and free-flow sparkling wine. Try the one at Trader Vic’s by the river.

@7 Playing 18 holes on the beautiful

with a day visit to the Elephant Nature Foundation (www. elephantnaturefoundation.org) just outside Chiang Mai.

#0 Soaking up the view of the @3 Being the first to see the sunrise from Thailand’s easternmost point at Pha Them in Ubon Ratchathani.

Andaman Sea from your private pool at the luxurious Sri Panwa (www. sripanwa.com) in Phuket.

34 W H E R E t ha i l and I apr i l 2012

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