Thailand
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The top shops for local design
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The 2014 edition of our luxury hardcover publication captures and explores the finer side of Thailand through compelling stories and stunning photography. is available for purchase at THB600.
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CONTENTS where
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l THAILAND l SEPTEMBER 2014
The Guide BANGKOK 17 DINING Bangkok's favorite Italian chef turns to Neapolitan pizza, the top cooking schools and Sunday brunch by the river.
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20 ARTS+ATTRACTIONS A new museum exhibiting the local culture of Rattanakosin Island, and our fave art exhibitions this month.
SIAMESE STYLE
A shopping guide for sophisticated Thai-made fashion.
22 NIGHTLIFE Celebrated designer Ashley Sutton opens a nostalgic themed bar in the heart of Bangkok.
FEATURES
26 HEALTH+WELLNESS
08 TOP NEW BARS A guide to the best nightlife venues, rooftop bars and bars with river views.
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Thai treatments at a spa run by Thailand's leading producer of natural skincare products.
12 A PERFECT DAY TRIP TO AYUTTHAYA Discovering the historic city and its top attractions.
28 SHOPS+SERVICES A multi-label fashion store at the city's latest luxe shopping mall and a Thai Craft Fair.
30 MAPS Silom, Sukhumvit, Siam and Rattanakosin
NEWS
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12 AROUND THAILAND The Phuket Vegetarian Festival, Bangkok tours on Vespas, rafting in Mae Hong Son and a new floating market in Khao Yai.
Sales Manager Sherry Maturose Kato
Editor Wachiraporn Janrut
Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai
Managing Editor Oliver Irvine Deputy Editor Carl Dixon Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Art Director Dechart Sangsawang Designer Panita Thiraphapon Contributors Monruedee Jansuttipan, Wanida Jiralertpaiboon
Marketing Manager Thasanee Sethi Marketing Executive, Creative Services Puttipat Teerakawongsakul Distribution Executive Suda Angsuputiphant On the Cover Everyday Karmakamet by Panita Thiraphapong
MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP | EXECUTIVE Vice President, Operations Donna Kessler Vice President, Operational Innovation Russ Leseberg Director Of Marketing Lynn Basinger
MVP | NATIONAL SALES Director Of National Sales And Custom Publishing Anthony Karwoski National Sales Managers Jennifer O'loughlin, Julie Humeas, Monica Weeks, Wanda Garcia-Fetherston
National Traffic Coordinator Leleah Robinson
E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris. Com
MVP | CARTOGRAPHY AND CIRCULATION General Manager, Where Maps Christopher Huber
MORRIS COMUNICATIONS Chairman & Ceo William S. Morris III President William S. Morris IV
Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 22/F, Silom Center 2 Silom Road, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: where@asia-city.co.th facebook.com/wherethailand
30 NAVIGATE 35 21 THINGS WE LOVE
Managing Editor/Publisher Grégoire Glachant
General Manager James Fuss
ALSO INSIDE
www.wherethailand.com
MVP | CREATIVE Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson Editorial Director, Visitor Guides Don Hoffman
Design Director Jane Frey Editorial Director, Custom Publishing Linda Chase Creative Coordinator Beverley Mandelblatt
MVP | TECHNOLOGY & MANUFACTURING Director Of Manufacturing Donald Horton E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.Com
@where_thailand
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FASHION CAPITAL
Thailand’s homegrown fashion scene has exploded of late. Here’s where to find the greatest local talents. By Wachiraporn Janrut
GREYHOUND
ASAVA
ASAVA
SIAM The Siam area encompasses four malls and a warren of small alleys with tiny boutiques, but the best Thai fashion designers are mostly concentrated on the third floor of Siam Center, a four-story mall right by the BTS. Start off with Greyhound (02-260-7121, www.greyhound.co.th). This longstanding Thai brand offers contemporary casual-wear and accessories with an emphasis on catchy graphics and materials. For a classic, feminine look, check out Senada (02-252-2757, tinyurl.com/losnh9g), which offers tops and dresses inspired by nature. Still on the same floor, the popular Milin (02-658-1000, www.milin.com) has a sexy, glamorous style for modern women with attitude. Also worth checking out is Fly Now (02-880-0831/7, www.flynowbangkok.com), one of the first Thai brands to be recognized internationally. Known for its avant-garde designs, Fly Now offers several collections, from smart ready-towear outfits and accessories to high-end fashion. Asava (02-6626526, tinyurl.com/ly2urml) and Disaya (02-690-1000), both on the first floor, are also among Thailand’s A-list fashion brands.
MILIN
DISAYA
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KARMAKAMET
KARMAKAMET
BACKYARD
Chatuchak can be a daunting shopping experience. The sprawling weekend market (open Sat-Sun 10am-8pm, MRT Kamphaeng Phet/BTS Mo Chit) packs in 15,000 stalls, making it one of the world’s largest markets. The most design-forward corner of Chatuchak can be found at Section 3, just outside the Kamphaeng Phet MRT station. Start your tour of the compact aisle at Mazmoizelle (section 3, soi 43. 085-557-5721), which makes preppy carrier bags and wallets from canvas, leather and cork in tasteful color combinations. Nearby, Labyrinth (section 3, soi 2, 081-907-8705) sells beautiful bracelets, necklaces, lockets, bangles and rings made from interesting materials like brass, feather, stone and resin. Chuan Pisamai (section 3, room 125-126, www. facebook.com/ChuanPisamai) offers romantic, vintagestyle accessories including headbands, hats and a seemingly unlimited range of flower-pattern shoes and bags. In the adjoining sections, jewelry lovers should head to Backyard (section 4, soi 2, room 225, 086-392-6169), which offers vintage-style accessories influenced by fairy tales; and Karmakamet boutique (section 2, soi 3, 02-272-5281), which stocks a wonderful range of scents for the home. Y WEAVING YOUR OWN SCARF
LABYRINTH
If you’re interested in learning more about Thai silk, join a class at the Loom Silk Weaving Studio (G/F, Lee House Building, Thonglor Soi 13. 02-712-7823. www.silkweavinghobby.com), where one family has been running a Thai silk business for over 40 years. The studio’s initial two-hour workshop (B1,800) teaches basic weaving techniques and lets you weave your own scarf. CHUAN PISAMAI
MAZMOIZELLE
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OTOP
OTOP
JIM THOMPSON
The original Jim Thompson Boutique (02-632-8100, www. jimthompson.com) on Surawong Road, a short walk from BTS Sala Daeng and MRT Silom, stocks silk clothes and accessories across three floors. It’s all fairly classic but the craftsmanship is superb. Jim Thompson has 14 retail shops across Bangkok, including at the Jim Thompson House (a must-visit within walking distance of BTS National Stadium, www.jimthompsonhouse.com) and malls like Central Chidlom, Siam Paragon and The Emporium. To stock up on other Thai handicraft gifts, visit the OTOP stores (www.otopinthecity.com) at three locations: Phloen Chit, Silom and Ramintra. The most conveniently located is OTOP The Gallery (02-650-8007), situated right next to BTS Phloen Chit. Nearby, the privately-owned OTOP store in the new luxury shopping mall Central Embassy (between BTS Phloen Chit and Chit Lom) is also an appealing shopping experience, though the products are more steeply priced.
Y MONSOON MUST-HAVES The latest pre-fall collections from our favorite Thai designers. By Pichanun Toonkamtornchai
In the Grid Inspired by the romantic side of London, Disaya’s pre-fall collection, Disaya Square, is defined by both elegance and practicality. Picking up where she left off from the Beatles-inspired spring/summer collection, the focus is on prints. The style is still minimalist, featuring items like tartan crop tops, denim colorblock dresses, longline blazers and organza jumpsuits and playsuits. With the image of a chic Londoner walking her dog in Hyde Park in mind, Disaya creates oversized accessories, using pearls and rainbow pearls in the form of earrings, necklaces, bangles and collar pins to mimic a poodle on its leash. 2/F, Central World, Rama 1 Rd., 02-646-1828. BTS Siam.
Back to the Future Something Boudoir combines 1950s American diner with outer space in its Stardiner collection, in tones of metallic, pastel and neon. Our favorite items include neoncolored crop tops with metallic straps, metallic high-waisted shorts, metallic A-line skirts and vinyl-record-print jumpsuits. For an even more retro look, go for the fleece jersey jacket with matching mini skirt. Complete your outfit with accessories like metallic tote bags, spaceship circle wristlets, french-fries wristlets and metallic platform loafers. 3/F, Central Embassy, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-160-5647. BTS Phloen Chit.
Into the Wild Embracing the rainy season, Greyhound’s pre-fall collection, Hike and Seek, takes us on an adventure in the rainforest through images of raindrops, palm leaves and hiding animals. Taking a break from the avant-garde hippie look of its spring/summer collection, this season features military jackets, rain coats with hiding animal prints and matching palm leaves-print jackets and trousers for men. In women’s wear highlights include two-toned raindrop-print blazers, crepe coats and light ponchos. For accessories, the spotlight is on to the Hike and Seek Clutch (B1,795): half of the revenue from each sale will be donated to Wildlife Fund Thailand. 3/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd., 02-252-3861. BTS Siam.
Tags and Tennis Playhound and its sub-brand Play Too roll out contrasting pre-fall looks. In collaboration with hot new graphic designer Thanachai Teeradakorn, Playhound draws inspiration from the children and street art of New York. The collection features colorful sportswear, like blouses with inflated sleeves, leggings and sweaters for girls, and short-sleeve shirts, straight-leg trousers and sweatshirts for boys. As for Play Too, the collection rewinds time to tennis uniforms of the 70s, with pleated miniskirts, polo shirts with oversized-collars and polo dresses with ruffle-trimmed collars. 1/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-610-7894. BTS Siam.
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WHISGAR PHLOENCHIT
FRESHLY MIXED The best new places for a night out in Bangkok.
U.N.C.L.E.
NAMSAAH BOTTLING TRUST
U.N.C.L.E.
NAMSAAH BOTTLING TRUST
WHISGARS PHLOENCHIT
U.N.C.L.E. is a wonderfully moody lounge with a stellar cocktail list, located above Lady Brett Tavern in the burgeoning Sathorn Soi 10-12 neighborhood. The space is all chocolate tones, leather upholstery, circular booths and warm lighting. You come here for amazing cocktails, and these guys know how to fix a drink, being the same people originally behind another local favorite, Hyde & Seek. Their creations have a rich, decadent quality, such as the Rowdy Tattooed Men (B395), which combines rum, cacao essence and peanut butter in what almost feels like a dessert, or the Bourbon N’ Apple (bourbon, averna, branca menta, apple juice, vanilla syrup and lemon juice, B330). An elegant hostess presides over it all, while a single barman in a classic vest stands behind the bar giving each drink the attention it deserves.
This new venue is located in a beautiful old villa that has previously seen service as the residence of a royal aide-de-camp, a soda company’s bottling office, and the club house of a bank. Now it has been transformed once again, with the ground floor dominated by a large cocktail-focused bar. There are over 30 drinks to choose from, covering the classics plus new specialty mixes utilizing Asian flavors. One of the partners at Namsaah Bottling Trust is renowned local Chef Ian Kittichai of Issaya Siamese Club, and the food downstairs focuses on playful bar bites with regional influences. The first floor of the wooden villa, which is decked out in bright colors and features lots of Thai artefacts, offers more formal dining and an à la carte menu of regional favorites.
After opening its first branch on Sukhumvit Soi 23 in June 2013, the gentlemen’s club-like whiskey and cigar bar Whisgars has branched out with a second joint in Ploenchit. Located right above popular Mexican restaurant La Monita and Spanish deli El Osito, this branch of Whisgars keeps the same dark and smoky décor with plenty of leather couches, but adds a new zone with a more bar-like vibe. The highlights, of course, are Whisgars’ 500-plus labels of Whiskey, from both the East and the West, as well as a choice of 200 nonCuban cigars. Cocktails are available, too, accompanied by food supplied by El Osito. Blues and jazz provide the soundtrack and live bands perform daily. Thursday night is Gentleman’s Evening, offering special discounts for gents looking to explore new labels of whiskey.
2/F, 149 Sathorn Soi 12. 02-635-0406. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-1am. BTS Surasak.
401 Soi Sirijullassayvok (Silom Soi 7), Silom, 02-636-6622. Open daily 5pm-midnight. BTS Chong Nonsi. www.namsaah.com
2/F, Mahatun Building, Ploenchit Rd. Open 2pm-2am. BTS Ploenchit. www.fb.com/ WhisgarsPhloenchit.com
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VESPER
Nestled quietly between J-Avenue and the always-busy modern Japanese restaurant Ozake, Sapporo Bar offers a warm and relaxing atmosphere, just like a traditional izakaya, and in that respect, is totally different from other places in the Thonglor area. The red shophouse-turned-bar has a small number of seats on the front terrace, but the real draw is inside at the long counter bar where you can get some edamame (complimentary) and skewered chicken along with Sapporo beer on tap (B159/330ml). We like the vibe, especially the soundtrack of J-rock and inter alt-rock. 335 Thonglor Soi 17 (next to J-Avenue). 02-185-2526. Open daily 5pm-2am. www.fb.com/sapporobar1111
VESPER
U.N.C.L.E.
This elegant blend of vintage member’s club and European bistro looks to appeal to serious cocktail drinkers (the name references James Bond’s Vesper martini from the original Ian Fleming novels). This focus is clear from the imposing marble bar packed with uncommon spirit bottles and oak barrels. The cocktails come
courtesy of London-based mixologist team Fluid Movement, but the food is no after-thought. Refined European comfort dishes, namely Italian and some Spanish options, are whipped up by Chef Luca Appino, formerly of the respected Italian restaurant La Bottega di Luca on Sukhumvit Soi 49. 10/15 Convent Rd. Open Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm; Sun-Thu 5:30pm-midnight; Fri-Sat 5:30pm1am. BTS Sala Daeng. www.vesperbar.co
MIKKELLER This Copenhagen gypsy microbrewery is set in an old house-turned-bar with a sizeable front yard for kicking it with friends. Better yet, rock up solo and sit at the bar to work your way through over 30 beers on tap while chewing the fat with the friendly bartenders. Founded in the kitchens of two home brewers, Mikkel Bjergsø and Kristian Keller, Mikkeller is recognized for its experimental approach to beer, brewing limited batches that challenge customers’ expectations. Imported bottles from all over the world are also available. 26 Ekkamai Soi 10, Yaek 2, Sukhumvit Soi 63. 02-381-9891. Open daily 5pm-midnight. www.mikkelerbangkok.com
Y DRINKS WITH A VIEW
The latest rooftop spots for a sunset cocktail. Monde Set on the fifth floor of the new Taka town, Monde uses fake grass to achieve a maintenancefree garden-like vibe and also benefits from a retractable canopy to shield guests from the rain. The specialty here is sheesha, and guests can order mixes of flavors like Sweet Night (grape, strawberry, bubble gum and mint) and Unicorn Pop (strawberry, bubble gum, peach and grape, B500).The bar food covers Asian favorites like pad Thai, sushi and maki rolls all the way through to pizza and pastas. Signature cocktails are concocted by an in-house mixologist who has worked in popular Thonglor bars like Bottoms Up. 555/27 Sukhumvit Soi 39. 085-009-6508. Open daily 6pm-2am. www.fb.com/ mondeofficial
Gramercy Park Gramercy takes its inspiration from the New York park of the same name. In keeping with the lush concept of downstairs neighbor Above Eleven, it features lots of bright furniture plus graffiti by local artists. The focus is on drink, not food, but there is a selection of ceviche and sushi dishes. Try the tiraditos octopus with white onions and olive oil (B470) while sipping a glass of Summer Jardin (Grey Goose, cherry blossom syrup, lime and grapefruit juice, B350).
Zeppelin Zeppelin occupies two floors above the Le Luk Condominium right near BTS Phra Khanong, where you can enjoy panoramic views of the up-and-coming neighborhood. While the 45th floor is decked out like a proper restaurant serving Thai-international dishes, the top floor is more laidback, with lots of sofas from which to enjoy the night views. There’s more of a party vibe come the weekend with DJs and live bands and special events.
35/F, Fraser Suites, Sukhumvit, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 083-542-1111. Open daily 6pm-2am.
45-46/F, Le Luk Condominium, 1595/500 Sukhumvit Rd. 02-3489121. Open Mon-Sat 6:00pm-2am. www.fb.com/ zeppelinbarandrestaurant
MONDE
GRAMERCY PARK
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SAMSARA
SUGAR RAY
BARKA
BARKA Tucked inside the hip bike café Aran Bicicletta, this cozy restaurant and bar boasts a softer, warmer interior than the many industrial-looking venues which have recently opened. The kitchen churns out a brief selection of global favorites, while the cocktail list is carefully crafted by a group of friends. Barka’s cocktails use all sorts of home-infused ingredients and feature some intriguing mixes. Try the Man Thing (honey-infused whiskey, orange, lemon, Peychaud’s bitter, B280). 128/10 Paholyothin Soi 2. 081-483-4070. Open Tue-Sun 6:30pm-midnight. www.fb.com/barkabarari
SUGAR RAY Sugar Ray is the headquarters of local syrup brand Socrates but operates as a cocktail bar three nights a week (Wed, Fri-Sat). Situated in a little street right across from other popular drinking spots like Tuba and Moose, the space feels like neither an office nor a factory, and is pretty welcoming despite an intentional aura of dinginess. It’s the perfect place to visit solo because guests can sit right by the mixing table and talk to mixologist Vipop “Tor” Jinaphan as
HANAKARUTA
he fixes them something potent. Try his popular Old Fashioned, which mixes bourbon with orange syrup, soda and bitters, served with an ice-ball, lemon twist and home-infused cherry (B350). Baan Ekkamai, Ekkamai Soi 21, Sukhumvit Soi 63. 081-750-8385. Open Wed, Fri-Sat 8pm-2am.
HANAKARUTA The Sukhumvit branch of Japanese izakaya Hanakaruta might have been around for a while, but it really picked up last year with the addition of some seriously good drinks. The bar stocks a wide selection of Japanese whiskey and even more varieties of umeshu. These include homemade versions that the bar’s owner is so passionate about he forces guests to taste, one after another, before mixing into personalized cocktails served with an ice ball carved right before your eyes. On top of that, the bar has recently expanded to a second, more luxurious branch in the happening Sathorn Soi 10 area, opposite Moko Restaurant. Hanakaruta is also notable for serving quality spirits at some of the best prices in town. 36/4 Sukhumvit Soi 39. 02-662-7339. Open daily 6pm-2am. Second branch at Sathorn Soi 10. 085-061-7318. www.fb.com/hanakaruta
Samsara Tucked down a little alley behind Wat Pathumkongka in a charming old wooden house, Samsara makes a great first impression. It feels halfway between a gallery and a friend’s place, brimming with personality: colorful vintage furnishings, all sorts of cat-related curios and walls dotted with framed pictures. Most of the tables are set out on the terrace and reservations are a must for spots with the best views. Some of the owners hail from Japan, and this shows in the form of Japanese touches augmenting the tasty Thai cuisine. 1612 Songwat Rd., 086-978-9331, 02-639-6853. Open Tue-Thu, Sun 4pm-midnight, Fri-Sat 4pm-1am. Sala Rattanakosin Sala Rattanakosin is a relatively new addition to the Chao Phraya riverside and offers stunning views of Wat Arun (even if the temple is currently covered in scaffolding). The renovated four-story shophouse boasts a small number of guestrooms but half of the building is dedicated to wining and dining, courtesy of Chef Tony Wrigley, whose restaurant whips up some pretty impressive Thai food. For us though, the highlight of Sala Rattanakosin is its rooftop bar—the perfect place for sipping a great selection of houseblended cocktails. 39 Soi Ta Tien, Maharaj Rd. 02-622-1388. Open daily from 5pm-1am. www.salarattanakosin.com Viva & Aviv Located right by Chao Phraya River, this venue has a naval theme with a dash of industrial chic—the bar is made out of old wooden crates, with lobster traps accessorizing the walls and sailboat hardware hanging from the ceiling. Soak up the river view and enjoy bistro-style food and inventive, well-made cocktails like Piña Colasi (Appleton Jamaican rum, fresh pineapple, orange and black pepper syrup, citrus and fresh young coconut foam). River City, 23 Yota Rd., 02-639-6305. Si Phaya Pier. Open daily 11am-midnight. www.vivaaviv.com
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TEN THINGS WE LOVE ABOUT AYUTTHAYA
TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND
SALA AYUTTHAYA
By Wachiraporn Janrut Photos by Monruedee Jansuttipan WAT PHRA SI SAI PHET
GETTING THERE We recommend a boat cruise (see no. 8, page 13). Otherwise, Ayutthaya is just a 1.5 hour’s drive from Bangkok. A taxi is the most convenient option. The cost is about B2,500 for a full day. It’s worth checking these three free-to-download taxi apps: Easy Taxi (www.facebook. com/EasyTaxiThai), Grab Taxi (www. easytaxi.com/th) and Uber (www. uber.com/cities/ bangkok). If you have time, consider a three-hour train journey, which lets you enjoy the sights along the route. Details at www. railway.co.th or call 02-621-8701.
1. AYUTTHAYA HISTORICAL PARK The 715-acre park features remains of ancient temples and palaces from the Ayutthaya period (1351-1767), one of the most prosperous kingdoms in Southeast Asia’s history, and is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Highlights include Wat Phra Si San Phet, a restored temple ruin within the Grand Palace compound, and Wat Phra Mahathat, an abandoned shrine made famous by an ancient Buddha effigy engulfed in tree roots. The spacious park means you should be prepared to walk long distances, or alternatively rent a bike from the various operators in the area.
BANG PA-IN PALACE
WAT PHRA
2. BANG PA-IN PALACE The former residence of various kings from the Ayutthaya period was built in 1638 on Bang Pa-In Island on the Chao Phraya River. The palace was left in ruins for many years following the BurmeseSiamese War (1765-1767) before being reconstructed in 1879 during the reign of King Rama V, who used it as his summer residence as well as a location for royal events. Bang Pa-In Palace is split into two zones and features six buildings in various architectural styles, from Thai and Chinese to European. The palace also houses the statue of Queen Sunanta, King Rama V’s consort who passed away together with her son in a boat accident on the way to the palace.
WAT NIWET
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7. RIVER PRAWNS
HISTORICAL PARK
BANG PA-IN PALACE
4. HANTRA ROYALTY PARK Hantra Royalty Park was built in celebration of HM the King Bhumibol Adulyadej’s 84th birthday in 2010 and opened to the public in October last year. To show their respect to the king, locals created a 9.84-meter standing Buddha image for the park which sits as the centerpiece of this 143-rai plot of land. If you do not have time to see all of all of Ayutthaya province, fear not, as Hantra Royalty Park has condensed the best bits into replicas of the region’s 16 districts, from the pagodas of Wat Phra Si San Petch to the gold reclining Buddha of Wat Sa Tue of Ta Rua. There’s also a floating market for visitors to do a spot of shopping. WAT PHRA MAHATHAT
WAT ARUN
5. SALA AYUTTHAYA Located on the riverbank opposite Wat Phutthaisawan, the newly opened Sala Ayutthaya (02-231-2588, www.salaresorts. com/ayutthaya) is a luxury boutique hotel with excellent views of the area. Decked out in modern white furnishings, the resort also bears Eastern touches in the form of tigermotif walls and Asian wood décor. Accommodation ranges from standard rooms to a pool suite and even a one-bedroom duplex that looks out over the river and a temple.
WAT NIWET
3. WAT NIWET THAMMAPRAWAT Wat Niwet Thammaprawat temple is unique both in its architecture and the way you access it. Set on an island in the Chao Phraya River, those who wish to visit must ring a bell from the riverbanks so that monks on the island can pull you across in a floating Thai pavilion. Once at the temple, you will be greeted by architecture dating to the reign of King Rama V that draws inspiration from gothic artwork to replicate the style of European cathedrals.
6. NIGHT CYCLING TOUR If you think exploring Ayutthaya by bike in the midday heat may be too much to bear, try a night bike ride instead. The ancient capital takes on a tranquil charm in the twilight, while the historical park plays host to spectacular light displays. Contact Ayutthaya Boat & Tour (035-244-558, www. ayuttaya-boat.com), which offers night bike trips starting at 6pm for B950. The 14km route takes you to Sri Suriyothai Memorial Stupa, Wat Chai Wathanaram, Wat Phra Si Sanphet, the Ancient Palace, Wat Rajaburana and Wat Mahathat.
Ayutthaya river prawns are delicious, and beside the river there are plenty of spots to enjoy them accompanied by great views. One of the best is Good View Restaurant (3/6 Moo 4, Baan Run, 035-703-166). Set on a wooden raft overlooking the river, it serves more than 100 Thai seafood dishes like tom yum talay (seafood tom yum soup), pu pad pongkari (yellow curry with crab) and pla tod samoonplai (fried fish with herbs). Another popular riverside restaurant is Ton Nam River View (26/7 Moo 6, Tessaban Soi 6, Ban Lane, 035-261-006), near Bang Pa-In Palace, offers beautiful views in a casual setting.
8. BOAT TOURS The best way to see Ayutthaya is to cruise along the Chao Phraya River, which leads all the way back to Bangkok. Many hotels and tour companies in the capital offer day-trip packages, but there are two main operators. River Sun Cruise (02-266-9125, www.riversuncruise.co.th) and Grand Pearl (02-8610255, www.www.grandpearlcruise.com) set off from Bangkok’s River City Shopping Complex on an air-con coach and return to Bangkok by river. Priced at B2,100 per person, both trips will take you to Bang Pa-In Palace and to the temple ruins of the historical park. Cruising back to Bangkok by water allows you to enjoy views of the many beautiful temples along the river, with the sight of Wat Arun marking your arrival back in Bangkok.
9. TRADITIONAL THAI MASSAGE Plu Hom Spa at Pludhaya Resort Spa (12/3 Moo 7, Klong Suanplu, 035-707-565/7) is a great place to stop and recharge after a day on your feet. Set in a wooden Thai-style villa in a lovely garden, the spa sets an ultra-relaxing ambience in which to be pampered.
10. AYOTHAYA FLOATING MARKET Before heading back to Bangkok, stop by Ayutthaya’s largest floating market (65/12 Moo 7, Pai Ling, Phranakorn Sri Ayutthaya, 035-881-678), which features many teakwood Thai pavilions around a large stretch of water. These pavilions contain restaurants, and souvenir shops, while the central islands allow you to buy food from passing boats as you watch stage performances. SEP T EMBER 2014 I W HERE THA ILA N D 13
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where AROUND THAILAND ISAAN
Rural Retreats
The latest openings and happenings around the Kingdom.
LIMROS
PHUKET
Extra Veg? One of Thailand’s most anticipated events, the Phuket Vegetarian Festival will this year take place on Sep 24-Oct 2. The event features sacred rituals at various Chinese shrines and temples throughout town, as well as gory performances like devotees walking barefoot on hot coals and sticking metal rods through their cheeks. You can also expect to find lots of tasty vegan food at numerous stalls and restaurants as the local Thai-Chinese residents undertake a 10-day spiritual cleansing. What’s more, according to the Chinese lunar calendar, this year contains two ninth lunar months, with the second from Oct 24-Nov 1, which only happens once every 100 years. It’s not yet confirmed if there will be a second celebration period.
Southern Comfort Phuket has welcomed a new dining option on Rasada Road, near the old town, Limros Bistro and Café (076-688-089, fb.com/LimrosBistroCafe). Decked out with brick walls and wooden furnishings, the new café boasts a welcoming and casual atmosphere with a few industrial touches, too. Though the highlights are its authentic Thai dishes like pad Thai, fried shrimp with tamarind sauce, fried pork belly with kaffir leaves and steamed grouper with soy sauce and herbs, you can also pop in early for eggs Benedict and pancakes, or have afternoon desserts like chocolate fondue and Kopiko banana cake.
Three Northeastern hotels recently joined forces under the name Isan Boutique Collection (IBC) to promote tourism in the region. Each participating resort is offering travel packages that include trips to their provinces’ main attractions. Located in Loei’s Ban Kok Pai in Pak Chom district, Mekong Villas (02-222-1290, www. mekongvillas.com) boasts stunning views of the Mekong River and Laos. The resort is offering a four-day-two-night package at B70,000 for two people, which includes full board, a cruise and picnic along the Mekong, and trips to Chiang Khan Village, mushroom farms, Phu Rue National Park and Nong Khai. Set in the lush Dansai Valley in Loei, Phunacome Resort (042892-005/6, www.phunacomeresort.com) is offering a three-day-two-night package at B35,000 for two people, which includes meals; a class on how to make ton puoeng, which is used by locals as a sacred offering to Sri Song Rak pagoda; a bike tour to explore Dansai Valley; visits to Pra That Sri Song Rak pagoda and Neramitre Vipassana Temple; and a day trip to Phu Rua where you can visit Chateau de Loei vineyard and Nong Bong Flower Market. You can also take part in activities like rice cultivation, organic vegetable planting and a cooking class. Located in the city of Khon Kaen, Supanniga Home (089-944-4880, www.supannigahome.com) is offering a three-day-two-night package at B25,000, which includes a cooking lesson, Thai dinners and a trip to Chonabot district to learn how the locals produce the village’s renowned handmade madmee silk.
SUPANNIGA HOME
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Vespa Tour Riding on the back of a motorcycle taxi is one of Bangkok’s iconic, if a bit smoggy, charms. Now you can incorporate two-wheeled backseat driving into your sight-seeing, with a bit of retro appeal thrown in, too. Best Bangkok Tours (085-445-0582, www.bestbangkoktours. com) offers guides who will ferry you around on the back of a scooter while you soak up the energy of the city. There are three different tours to choose from: “The Real Deal,” which covers major attractions like Wat Po and the Grand Palace, the Jim Thompson House, Chao Phraya River and Sukhumvit Road; “The Drink & Ride Tour,” which takes you to five of the hippest bars in town for a tipple of your choice (the tour is held at night, obviously); and “The Eat & Ride Tour,” which lets you stuff your face with food from three different restaurants (you get to pick them). “The Real Deal” and “The Drink & Ride Tour” cost B1,500 per person, while “The Eat & Ride Tour” costs B3,000 (food included). The tours typically last for three hours. The best part? You’ll be fetched and dropped off right at the doorstep of your hotel. MAE HONG SON
Rafting Season With rivers at their fullest and forests at their greenest, now is the best time for whitewater rafting and exploring the lush Pa Sak Navamintra Rachinee rainforest. The Department of Forestry (053-695-007, www.forest.go.th/ maehongson) and the Tourism Authority of Thailand Mae Hong Son (053-612-982/3) have organized whitewater rafting on three main routes, including a three-hour 3km journey and a day trip which follows a 45km route along the Kong River, passing the beautiful Susa Waterfall. The two-day trip takes an 84km route along Pai River, letting you camp out in one of the world’s biggest and greenest teak forests. To get to Mae Hong Son, you can catch a 35-minute flight from Chiang Mai (itself a one-hour flight north of Bangkok). Kan Air (02-511-6111, www.kanairlines.com) offers three flights daily at fares starting from B3,180 for a round-trip. Three tour operators in Mae Hong Son offer rafting packages: Thai Adventure (053-699-111, www.thairafting.com), Sit Jemam Muaythai Gym (083-321-2230, www. sitjemammuaythai.com) and Northern Green Pai Adventure Tour (053-699-583, www. thailandpai.net).
PHICHIT
River Wild One of Thailand’s oldest and biggest boat races, Phichit Long-boat Racing Festival, returns from Sep 6-7. Taking place 344 km north of Bangkok, by the Nan River near Tha Luang temple, the event will see many colorfully decorated traditional long boats competing for the top prize. There will also be a contest for the best-looking boats, a boat exhibition, concerts and a market with local products and food stalls. While you are there, make sure to check out Wat Tha Luang, home to Luang Pho Phet—the 1.4-meter-wide Chiang Saen-style Buddha image revered by locals. Details at 055-252-742/3.
PHUNACOME RESORT
KHAO YAI
Float On A mere 2.5 hours’ drive from Bangkok, Khao Yai Floating Market (083-373-0262, www.khaoyaifloatingmarket.com) opened in May in Pak Chong district, 35km from Khao Yai National Park. The spacious twostory market set around an artificial lake is divided into five retro themed zones. On the top floor are a small farm and flower garden, below which you can find numerous food stalls, restaurants and souvenir shops. Entry is B100 per person. Open daily 8am-6pm.
WHITEWATER RAFTING
BOTANICA KHAO YAI
BEST BANGKOK TOURS
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ART
The House of the Raja Head to Eat Me restaurant for dinner accompanied by Spanish photographer Xavier Comas’ exhibition of black and white photographs taken in Thailand’s Muslim South. All the images come from his new book, The House of the Raja, and were shot inside a beautiful old house once owned by a Malay ruler. Through Sep 28. Eat Me restaurant, 1/6 Phiphat Soi 2, Convent Rd., 02-238-0931. BTS Sala Daeng. XG11
DINING..........................................................17-19 ARTS................................................................... 20 ATTRACTIONS................................................21
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NAVIGATE........................................................ 30 MAPS.............................................................31-34
Note that the reference at the end of the listings (WS24, ZD3, etc.) applies to the coordinates on the individual maps on pages 33-36. Listings without coordinates indicate locations not within the maps.
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Peppina Following the success of his popular Italian restaurant Appia, which ranked fourth in BK Top Tables 2014, Italian chef and owner Paolo Vitaletti recently opened Peppina, the only place in Bangkok specializing in genuine Neapolitan pizza. Aiming to offer the most authentic taste possible, Vitaletti trained for a few weeks in Naples despite his already lengthy career. The result is the best pizza in town, from the classic Margherita (B200/330) to the unusual bacci (small rolls of dough stuffed with roasted pork belly, ricotta and smoke mozzarella, B280). But the major specialty, other than the pizzas, is the grilled meats, such as the massive char-grilled 1.5kg chunk of beef (B2,500). Peppina, 27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 31 Bangkok, 02-119-7677. www.fb.com/peppinapizza ZB4
DOWNTOWN BAWARCHI—Indian. $$$ This is the flagship branch of a chain of four Indian restaurants that all look to serve up traditional Mughali cuisine like chicken tikka and tandoori lamb chops in a contemporary setting. B/F, Intercontinental Hotel, 973 Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-0102-3. Open daily 11am-midnight. www.bawarchiindian.com YM18
BLUE ELEPHANT —Thai. $$$$ The flagship branch of the globally-known Thai restaurant brand is housed in a stunning colonial-style mansion, complete with a classic interior, where chef and owner Nooror Somany Steppe and her team serve up royal Thai cuisine. 233 South Sathorn Rd., 02-673-9353. Open daily 11:30am2:30pm, 6:30–10:30pm. BTS Surasak. XI13
Y PICK EAT ME — International. $$$$ The
décor is a cool yet cozy mélange of industrial, natural and artistic, the kitchen pulls off original combinations, and the cocktails are perfection. 1/6 Phiphat Soi 2, Convent Road, 02-238-0931. Open daily 3pm-1am. BTS Sala Daeng XG11
rolls) and roast duck with kale sauce. The second floor features a lounge area serving cocktails. 149/4-6 Surawong Rd. Open daily 9am-4pm, 5-11pm. www.jimthompson.com XH8 LA SCALA — Italian. $$$$ Embellished with dark wood furniture, Buddha images and stylish lamps, the design is resolutely contemporary and Asian. The subtle, yet finely-tuned, ambiance is the ideal backdrop for the refined Italian cuisine. The Sukhothai, Sathorn Road, 02-344-8888. Open daily noon-3pm, 6:3010:30pm. XF13
Y PICK LE BEAULIEU — French. $$$$ Chef
Hervé Frerard cooks up hearty, rustic options like baked morteau sausage served with a rich tomato lentil sauce and terrine de pot au feu alongside bistro classics like bouillabaisse and sole meunière. These simple dishes use high-quality ingredients imported directly from France or make the most of the chef’s involvement with the Royal Projects. G/F, Athénée Office Tower, 63 Wireless Rd., 02168-8220-3. www.le-beulieu.com YN21
Price guide $ $$ $$$ $$$$
Under B500 B500-900 B900-1,500 B1,500 and up
Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course, dessert, charges and tax.
Area guide Downtown covers the Silom, Sathorn and Siam neighborhoods Lower Sukhumvit covers the area from BTS Chit Lom to Sukhumvit Soi 19 Upper Sukhumvit covers the area from BTS Asoke to Sukhumvit Soi 53
Y PICK GAGGAN — Indian. $$$$ After a brief
stint at the research facility of El Bulli, Chef Gaggan Anand developed this exciting menu interpreting regional Indian dishes with solid, traditional flavors and some wow-worthy techniques. 68/1 Soi Langsuan, 02-652-1700. Open daily 6pm-midnight. YO19
Y PICK ISSAYA SIAMESE CLUB — Thai. $$$-
$$$$ Chef Ian Kittichai made his name in New York but returned home with this restaurant, set in a delightful wooden mansion and featuring inventive twists on classic Thai recipes. 4 Soi Sri Aksorn, Chue Pleong Road, 02-672-9040-1. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm. www.issaya.com
JIM THOMPSON — Thai and Fusion. $$-$$$ This venue sports modern Thai décor and serves Thai and fusion dishes like poh pia hed thod (spring SEP T EMBER 2014 I W HERE THA ILA N D 17
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DINING LE DU — Thai. $$$-$$$$ Le Du’s intriguing menu offers Asian flavors with modern cooking techniques and mostly seasonal local produce. The wine list is exciting, with bottles sourced only from organic producers or boutique importers. 339/3 Silom Soi 7, 081-562-6464. Open MonFri 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-11pm, Sat 6-11pm. www. ledubkk.com XG11
Y PICK NAHM — Thai. $$$$ Named Asia’s top
restaurant, David Thompson’s Nahm serves a fiery, multi-course set menu, which offers plenty of tasty and authentic choices. Metropolitan, 27 South Sathorn Rd., 02-625-3333. Open Mon-Fri noon-2pm, 7-11pm, Sat-Sun 7-11pm. XG13
THE RAW BAR — Seafood. $$$$ With its focus on fresh seafood and wine, this chic bar offers a wide selection of fresh oysters and a good range of white and sparkling wines to choose from. The seasonal cocktails, too, are designed to go well with raw food. 440/9 Thonglor Soi 14, 02-7138681. Open daily 5:30pm-1am. ZB6 ROCKET – International. $$ Decked out with warm wood tones and little details like bowls of fruit and chrome coffee machines, this uber-chic brunch spot offers a delightful brunch menu, including dishes like eggs benedict, sandwiches on homemade bread and cakes. There’s a good selection of booze, from cocktails to a choice of six wines by the glass. 149 Sathorn Tai Soi 12, 02635-0404.Tue-Sun 7am-11pm. XH11 RUEN URAI — Thai. $$-$$$ Set in an old Thai house decorated with rare Thai crafts, this charming venue offers a polished menu of solid Thai recipes that retain their authentic flavors. Rose Hotel, 118 Surawong Rd., 02-266-8268/72. Open daily noon-11pm. XG8 SOMTUM DER – Thai. $-$$ One of the first to bring street food into a more comfortable setting, it features arty touches and lots of blond wood. The menu has a focus on somtam, a spicy Thai papaya salad, and other classic Northeastern (Isaan) dishes like laab moo tord (spicy pork balls) and kor moo yang (grilled pork neck). 5/5 Sala Daeng Rd., 02-632-4499. Open daily 11am10pm. BTS Sala Daeng. XF11
SUKHUMVIT SOIS 1-19 11 GALLERY — Thai. $-$$ Set in a charming old wooden home down a bustling little soi, this popular spot serves up traditional Thai dishes in quaint tiffin boxes. 1/34 Sukhumvit Soi 11, opposite Ambassador Hotel, 02-651-2672. BTS Nana. Open daily 10-1am. ZB1 ABOVE ELEVEN — Fusion. $$$$ The twist of this rooftop bar and restaurant, apart from a great city view, is a concept that focuses on Nikkei cuisine: a fusion of Japanese and Peruvian flavors. 32/F, Fraser Suites Sukhumvit, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-207-9300. Open daily 6pm-2am. www. aboveeleven.com ZA1 SEVEN SEAS RESTAURANT — Seafood/European. $$$ You’ll find a variety of tasty Thai, seafood and Western dishes in a cozy setting with a pleasant outdoor terrace. Recommended dishes include the tom yum soup and steamed pomfret in soy and ginger. Sukhumvit Soi 4, 02-656-7881. Open daily 12:30pm–1:30am. ZC1
THE LOCAL — Thai. $$$-$$$$ Chef and co-owner Can Markawat keeps the focus on authentic local dishes and regional products cooked according to hard-to-find traditional recipes. They’re all served in a 100-year-old house. They also run weekly cooking lessons. 32-32/1 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-664-3360-1. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-11:30pm. ZA3 SIAM WISDOM — Thai. $$$-$$$$ Owned by local celebrity Chef Chumpol Jangprai, the new restaurant is set in a traditional-looking house, serving up authentic Thai dishes created from high-quality local produce, such as kapi (shrimp paste) from Klong Khon, palm sugar from Petchaburi or sturgeon’s roe from the Royal Projects. 66 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-260-7811-2. BTS Asok. ZB4
SUKHUMVIT SOIS 21-49 Y PICK APPIA — Italian. $$$ Jarret Wrisley of the popular Soul Food Mahanakorn teams up with Chef Paolo Vitaletti who is firmly committed to his family food principle: to create wonderful Roman-style pastas. Also, expect a carefully curated wine selection. 20/4 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-261-2056. Open daily 6-11pm. ZC4
Y PICK BO.LAN — Thai. $$$$ Chefs Bo and
Dylan offer a traditional approach to Thai food, presented in a contemporary style and served in a charming house-turned-restaurant. Opt for the Bo.lan balance, a degustation menu that changes to reflect the seasons. 24 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 086074-5672, 091-119-4017. www.bolan.co.th ZC6
Y PICK INDUS — Indian. $$$ An ambient spot
with a beautiful backyard, the kitchen also does a good job serving up much lighter versions of the usual North Indian favorites like biriyani, kebabs and tikkas. 71 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-258-4900, 02-661-5279. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-10:30pm. ZE5
ISAO — Japanese. $$$ Despite the standard izakaya facade, Isao offers something different— Japanese cuisine with American twists, thanks to the chef’s apprenticeship in Chicago. 5 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-258-0645/6. Open Mon-Fri 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-10pm, Sat-Sun 11am-10pm. ZC4 L’APPART — French. $$$-$$$$ Imagine a grand Parisian apartment, which means parquet floors, burgundy wallpaper and lots of marble. The food is French cuisine with Thai touches. There’s also a bar with a particular focus on Champagne cocktails. 32/F, Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Rd. (between Sois 13 and 15), 02-1269999. Open daily 5pm-midnight. www.sofitel. com ZB2 LA BOTTEGA DI LUCA — Italian. $$$ A project of love for the well-traveled chef Luca Appino, this deli-cum-restaurant sticks to traditional recipes but stands out thanks to its distinct emphasis on fresh and, when possible, homemade ingredients. Terrace 49, Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-204-1731. Open Tue-Sun 11:30am-2:30pm, 5pm-midnight; Mon 5:30pm-noon. ZB5
ISSAYA COOKING STUDIO
Y BANGKOK’S TOP COOKING SCHOOLS Issaya Cooking Studio Run by the team behind the renowned Thai restaurant Issaya Siamese Club, Issaya Cooking Studio in Central Embassy offers courses from the likes of Issaya’s Chef Ian Kittichai alongside guests such as Chef Luca Appino from La Bottega Di Luca and Belgian chocolatier Laurent Gerbaud. Courses are priced from B2,000B4,500 and cover topics like sous-vide techniques, cocktails and pasta-making, while you can also learn Thai favorites, from nam jim (dipping sauces) to pastes, curries and innovative desserts. And don’t forget to grab some Thai-inspired desserts from Issaya La Patisserie on the fifth-floor before you leave the mall, too. LG/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Ploen Chit Rd., 02-160-5636. BTS Phloen Chit. www.facebook.com/ issayastudio YM19
Helping Hands Cooking School You can learn how to whip up some authentic Thai food while supporting a worthwhile local community at this school run by Chef Saiyuud Poo Diwong, who released a famous cookbook, the delightfully named Cooking with Poo, back in 2012. The school offers a one-day course at B1,200 per person, which includes a trip to select your ingredients from the local fresh market, recipe cards and free transport from Emporium Suites (BTS Phrom Phong). The money raised goes towards helping the local Klong Toey slum children. The Klong Toey Community, 084-901-8717/095053-7009. www.cookingwithpoo.com
Blue Elephant Cooking School Set on the third floor of the beautiful old mansion home to the famous Thai restaurant The Blue Elephant, this cooking school is known as one of Bangkok’s very best, where you can learn to cook gourmet Thai food from old-school recipes. Led by the restaurant’s head chef and founder Nooror Somany Steppe, it offers half-day courses at B2,800 for a morning course (8.45am-12.30pm) and B2,500 for an afternoon course (1.30-4.30pm), which include a theory session, cooking demonstrations, cooking sessions and a meal. Opt for the morning course as it also includes a trip to a morning market. 233 South Sathorn Rd., 02-673-9353. BTS Surasak. www.blueelephant.com. XI13
Chon Thai Restaurant Set in a beautiful Thai teak house overlooking the Chao Phraya River and Krung Thonburi Bridge, Chon boasts an impressive array of antiques and collectables belonging to owner Krissada Sukosol Clapp. The cooking course is open for only two students per class. Priced at B5,500 per person, it includes a trip to the local market to buy ingredients and a cooking session in which you’ll get to make three popular Thai dishes from choices like pad Thai, tom yum goong and mango with sticky rice. Khao Rd, Dusit, 02-206-6999. www. thesiamhotel.com
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DINING Y PICK MAYA — Indian. $$$ Housed in a striking
cantilevered structure on the roof of the Holiday Inn, this venue offers a choice of classic North Indian dishes, a cigar lounge and a DJ bar. Holiday Inn Sukhumvit, Sukhumvit Soi 22, 02-683-4704. BTS Phrom Phong. Open daily 6pm-1am. www. mayathailand.com ZC4
NEAR EQUAL — Thai. $$-$$$ Set in a quaint house down a lovely leafy street. Upstairs the wood floors and antique pieces make for a delightful spot to enjoy well-balanced Thai dishes; then head downstairs to browse the selection of Thai furniture and handicrafts. 22/2 Sukhumvit Soi 47, 02-2581564/5. Open daily 11:30am-3pm, 5:30-9:30pm. ZC5
PICK PASTE — Thai. $$$ Jason Bailey takes his inspiration from Thai royal cuisine. Everything here is homemade from locally-sourced ingredients completed with inventive techniques and artful presentation. 120/6 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-3924313. Open Wed-Sun noon-2:30pm, Tue-Sun 6pmmidnight. www.pastebangkok.com ZA5
Y PICK QUINCE — International. $$$ Quince
goes for a casual and rustic ambiance that’s part industrial, part European country home. The kitchen’s focus is all about sustainability, ethical eating and local produce with down-to-earth home cooking and a menu that changes frequently. Sukhumvit Soi 45, 02-662-4478. Open daily 6-10pm. BTS Phrom Phong. www.quincebangkok. com ZC5
SMITH — International. $$$$ Set in a former furniture warehouse, it’s decked out in an elegant industrial theme, with walls lined with butcher’s tools. Chef Peter Pitakwong’s menu focuses on two things: locally-sourced ingredients and nose-to-tail cooking. 1/8 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-261-0515. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-midnight. ZC5
Sukhumvit Soi 55 (between Thonglor sois 6 and 8). Open Tue-Sun 11:30am-11:30pm. ZC6 WATER LIBRARY — International. $$$$ A restaurant that serves a maximum of ten diners per night, with a 12-course set menu using the best ingredients prepared in front of you by an army of chefs. It’s very sophisticated, very sexy and while quite expensive, very memorable. There’s also a neighboring wine bar. Grass, Thonglor Soi 12, Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02714-9292/-3. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-1am. ZB6
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RIVERSIDE CHON — Thai. $$$$ Set in a beautiful Thai teak house overlooking the Chao Phraya River, Chon (“spoon” in Thai) has made a name for itself thanks to its authentic Thai food.The Siam Hotel, 3/2 Khao Rd., Dusit, 02-206-6999. Free shuttle boat from Central Pier. Open daily 6am-11pm. www.thesiamhotel.com SALA RATTANAKOSIN — Thai/Western. $$$ This stylish riverside venue is where to indulge in Western and Thai creations while you feast your eyes on Wat Arun. Soi Ta Tien, Maharat Road, 02-622-1388. Tha Tien Pier. Open daily 7am-10pm. www.salarattanakosin.com. WP23 STEVE CAFÉ & CUISINE — Thai. $$ Located next to Thewet pier, Steve’s offers river views, a charming 60-year old wooden house, and spicy Southern dishes. 68 Soi Sri Ayuthaya 21 (Wat Devarajkoonchon), Sri Ayuthaya Road, 02-281-0915. Open 11:30am-11pm. www. stevecafeandcuisine.com
Sunday Brunch at The Siam
One of Bangkok’s finest settings for a Sunday brunch is the old-world charm of The Siam, right beside the Chao Phraya River. Executive Chef Jane-Therese Mulry conjures up classic à la carte dishes, both Thai and European, like chicken liver parfait with Waldorf salad (B450), Angus beef burger with gruyere cheese (B560), khao soi gai (Northern-style curry with noodles and chicken, B390) and pad Thai goong (B450). Reservations for brunch and the round-trip boat shuttle are essential. Brunch guests can also take advantage of special day-rates on a private villa. The Siam, 3/2 Khao Rd., Vachirapayabal, Dusit, 02-206-6999. Every Sunday 11am-3:30pm. www. thesiamhotel.com
THONGLOR/EKKAMAI LITTLE BEAST — International. $$-$$$ Owned by a group of best friends who met in New York, this stylish gastro bar serves French and New American cuisine. Enjoy the popular 15-hour lamb shoulder and creative cocktails in a 1920s-inspired space. 44/9-10 Thonglor Soi 13, Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-1852670. Open Tue-Sun 5:30pm-1am. ZB5
Y PICK OPPOSITE MESS HALL — International.
$$$ Chef Jess Barnes draws on both Mediterranean and Asian influences and focuses on local produce. The fuss-free nature of the place means dishes are often best eaten with your fingers and enjoyed with the homemade cocktails. 27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-662-6330. Open Tue-Sun 7pm-midnight. BTS Thonglo. ZC5
PHUKET TOWN — Thai. $-$$ Phuket Town whips up solidly traditional Southern-style dishes like kanom jeen namya poo (rice noodle with crab curry) and pad sataw goong (stir-fried sataw beans with shrimp) in a bright and quirky setting that features plenty of Sino-Portuguese touches. Corner of Thonglor Soi 6, Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-714-9402. Open daily 10:30am-10:30pm. ZC6
Y PICK SUPANNIGA EATING ROOM — Thai. $$
Set in a three-story shophouse, this Thai restaurant offers cozy yet chic décor. The menu is based on what the owner’s grandmom used to cook—Thai food that borrows both from her hometown of Trat, and where the family now lives, Khon Kaen. 160/11 SEP T EMBER 2014 I W HERE THA ILA N D 19
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ART+ ATTRACTIONS Pipit Banglamphu The newly opened Pipit Banglamphu Museum is located on Phra Athit Road near Phra Sumen Fort in a building which dates back to 1924 and was formerly used as Thailand’s first printing school. Thanks to a community effort, the site has been registered as a place of national importance by Thailand’s Fine Art Department, derailing plans submitted in 1999 to demolish the building. It has now been renovated and reopened as a museum focusing on the culture of Bangkok’s Rattanako sin Island area, as well as the printing school’s history. Exhibits are displayed alongside information in both Thai and English. Through Sep 30, the museum is open daily, 10am-6pm, with free entry. From October onwards, entry will be B100 per person, closed Mondays. Next to Phra Sumen Fort, Phra Athit Rd., 02-6291850, www.fb.com/pipitbanglamphu WQ25
ART GALLERIES 100 TONSON GALLERY — On top of its prime location, this gallery doesn’t shy away from political topics and attracts leading artists. 100 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Road, 02-684-1527. BTS Chit Lom. Open Thu-Sun 11am-7pm. www.100tonsongallery.com YN20 ADLER SUBHASHOK — Situated in a striking contemporary building, tucked into the depths of Sukhumvit Soi 33, the two vast floors of lofty exhibition space encased in bare cement, feature exhibitions from leading Thai contemporary artists. 160/3 Sukhumvit Soi 33 (Daeng Udom), 02-662-0299. Open daily 10am-6pm. www. adler-subhashok-gallery-bkk.com ZB4 BANGKOK ART & CULTURE CENTRE — The city’s center for contemporary art features regular exhibitions, seminars and art-related shops in its impressive 11-story structure. 939 Rama I Rd., Pathumwan, 02-214-6630-1. BTS National Stadium. Open Tue-Sun 10am-9pm. www.bacc. or.th YM16 H GALLERY — Set in a beautiful late 19th century building, H Gallery offers a program of exhibitions representing emerging contemporary Asian artists. 201 Sathorn Soi 12, 081-310-4428. BTS Surasak. Open Wed-Mon 10am-6pm. www. hgallerybkk.com XH11 KATHMANDU PHOTO GALLERY — A four-floor gallery, which includes a speciality book store, focused on promoting the work of established and up-and-coming local photographers. 87 Soi Pan, Silom Road, 02-234-6700. Open Tue-Sun 11am-7pm. www.kathmandu-bkk.com XI11 NATIONAL GALLERY — Housing traditional and contemporary Thai art, the gallery displays works by Thai artists from the 17th century on. It’s looking its age but features some interesting
shows. 4 Chao Fah Rd., 02-282-2639-40. Open Wed-Sun 9am-4pm. www.national-gallery.go.th WQ27
SERINDIA GALLERY — Run by the owner of a publishing company and housed in a colonial style former home, this beautiful gallery has regularly rotating exhibitions. O.P. Garden, Charoen Krung Soi 36, Charoenkrung Road, 02-238-6410. Open Tue-Sun 11am-8pm. www. serindiagallery.com XJ9 SILOM GALLERIA — This large mall houses a range of modern galleries. Highlights include Tang Contemporary Art, covering modern Chinese art; and Thavibu Gallery, featuring Thai, Vietnamese and Burmese artists. 919/1 Silom Soi 19, 02-2665454. Mall is open daily 10am-8pm. XI10 THE QUEEN’S GALLERY — The focus of this gallery is often on royal and religious themes. 101 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd., 02-281-5360/1. Open Thu-Tue 10am-7pm. WS27 WHITESPACE GALLERY — Curated by talented contemporary Thai artist Maitree Siriboon, this gallery is a platform for young artists with more of an experimental, avant-garde leaning. 1 Sala Daeng Soi 1, 02-235-2500. MRT Lumphini. Open Wed-Sun noon-6pm. XF12
MUSEUMS BANGKOKIAN MUSEUM —Made up of four wooden houses built in 1937, the museum offers a fascinating insight into the lifestyle of an upper-class Bangkokian family. Featuring elegant furniture and ornaments from the early Rattanakosin era and the reign of King Rama V, the different buildings are a charming space to spend a few hours and enjoy the river breeze in the well-kept gardens.Free entry. Charoenkrung Soi 43, 02-233-7027. Open Wed-Sun 10am–4pm.
JIM THOMPSON HOUSE — The former home of CIA agent and savior of Thai silk Jim Thompson is a beautifully preserved complex of six traditional Thai-style houses brought here from all over the country, containing his art and antique collection of sculptures, paintings and porcelain. There is also an exhibition space, restaurant and shop. 6/1 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Rd., 02-216-7368. BTS National Stadium. Open daily 9am-5pm. B100. www. jimthompsonhouse.com YM15 MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART — A private museum funded by a telecom tycoon, this is Thailand’s first major permanent modern art collection. Situated on the outskirts of town, MOCA’s works are mostly post-1990s, and are dominated by realist and surrealist depictions of rural life, religious Buddhist scenes and mythological motifs. Bejajinda Building, Wiphawadi-Rangsit Road, 02-953-1005/7. Open Mon-Sat 10am-6pm (last entry 5:15pm). www.mocabangkok.com MUSEUM SIAM — This completely restored colonial-style building is now an innovative, technology-driven museum that takes you on a journey through the history of Siam via an array of multimedia presentations and interactive panels. 4 Sanamchai Rd., 02-2252777. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. B300. www. museumsiam.com WQ23 NATIONAL MUSEUM — Formerly the “second king’s” palace, this gorgeous, if run-down, property houses some of the most impressive architecture, art and antiques in the country. Na Phrathat Road, 02-215-8173. Open WedSun 9am-4pm. B50. www.nationalmuseums. finearts.go.th WQ27
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ART+ ATTRACTIONS QUEEN SIRIKIT MUSEUM OF TEXTILES — This museum tells the story of how HM Queen Sirikit has helped turn Thai silk from a simple local handicraft into a key export and an icon of Thailand. Highlights include the Queen’s personal dresses and ornate costumes by leading international designers.Ratsadakornbhibhathana Building, The Grand Palace, Na Phra Lan Road, 02-225-9420, Tha Chang Pier. Open daily 9am-4:30pm. B150. WQ25 ROYAL BARGE MUSEUM — Eight of the over 50 barges that make up the royal processions are displayed here. The Suphannahong, or Golden Swan is a must-see, with its huge, golden figurehead prow. 80/1 Arun Amarin Rd., Pinklao Bridge Pier, Thonburi, 02-424-0004. Open daily 9am-5pm. Admission B30. WP27 SUAN PAKKAD PALACE — This former royal household features eight Thai-style houses that showcase sculptures, furniture and traditional instruments from the Rama V period along with prehistoric relics. Sri Ayudhya Rd., 02-2461775/6 ext 229. BTS Phaya Thai. Open daily 9am-4pm. B100. www.suanpakkad.com VIMANMEK — With 12 separate museums in Vimanmek Palace, you can easily spend a whole day here. The compound houses the royal museums of photography, textiles and silk, clocks, and more. The old black and white pictures of the royal family are particularly interesting but it is the gorgeous teak buildings that are the real stars. Strict dress code (see their website for details). Ratchawithi Rd., 02-628-6300/-9. www.vimanmek.com. Open daily 9:30am-4pm. Admission B100.
CULTURAL ATTRACTIONS GRAND PALACE / WAT PHRA KAEO — One of the best known and most stunning landmarks in the city, the compound is home to a collection of royal palaces which blend European and Thai architecture. Situated in the compound of the Grand Palace is Wat Phra Kaeo, home to Thailand’s most revered religious icon: the Emerald Buddha, carved from solid jade. Also, don’t miss the exquisite mural wall paintings found lining the compound walls. Na Phra Lan Road, Tha Chang Pier. Open daily 8:30am-3:30pm. Free English tours at 10am, 10:30am, 1:30pm and 2pm. B400. WQ25
RATTANAKOSIN EXHIBITION HALL — This converted 1930s-era building is now an exhibition space featuring interactive presentations depicting life in Thailand during the current Rattanakosin Era. The cafe on the top floor also has a nice view of the old town. 100 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd., 02-261-0044. Open Tue-Sun 10am-7pm. Adults B100, children under 120cm free. www. nitasrattanakosin.com. WR26 WAT ARUN (TEMPLE OF DAWN) — On the river’s edge, the 76-meter-tall prang (Khmerstyle tower) is decorated with millions of tiny seashells and Chinese porcelain. Arun means “morning” and the temple is best viewed at dawn or sunset from the opposite bank. Arunamarin Road, Wat Arun Pier. Open daily 8:30am-5pm. WP22
WAT PHO — Famous as both the home of the 46-meter-long reclining Buddha and as a center of traditional Thai massage, it even offers courses to learn for yourself. Sanamchai Rd., Phra Nakhon. 02-225-4771, Tha Thien Pier. Open daily 8am-6pm. B100. www. watpomassage.com WQ24
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Y ART EXHIBITIONS
WAT TRAIMIT WITTAYARAM — Home to the world’s largest golden Buddha image, this white marble temple also houses the informative Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Center. Near Odeon Circle, Charoen Krung Soi 37. Open Tue-Sun 8am-5pm.
ATTRACTIONS FLOW HOUSE — Flow House offers the chance to go surfing in the city thanks to a special machine that simulates the experience of riding a real wave. It also features a bar, restaurant and shop specializing in water sports gear. Lessons available, prices cover board hire, showers and towels. A Square, Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-108-5210. Open Sun-Thu 8am-11pm; Fri-Sat 8am-midnight. From B550 per hour. www.flowhousebangkok.com
WHITE SPACE GALLERY
MADAME TUSSAUDS — The famous wax work museum has made it to Bangkok and features a star-studded lineup of incredibly life-like movie stars, politicians and sports figures drawn from all over the world. 6/F, Siam Discovery, 989 Rama I Rd., 02-658-0060. BTS Siam. Open daily 10am-9pm. Tickets B800 adults, B600 children over 5. www.madametussauds.com/ bangkok YM16 SIAM OCEAN WORLD — Southeast Asia’s largest aquarium features more than 30,000 marine creatures and 400 aquatic species. Highlights include the underwater tunnel and the glass bottom boat tour. Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-687-2000. BTS Siam. Open daily 10am10pm. B900 for adults, B700 for children. YM17
KIDS FUNARIUM — This giant indoor soft play area provides painting, crafts, bike riding, rollerblading and cooking as well as regular shows and two large play areas. 111/1 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-665-6555. Open daily Mon-Thu 9am-7pm, Fri-Sun 8:30am-8:30pm. B180-300 for kids and B90 for adults. Socks required. www.funarium.co.th KIDZOONA — Split into two main sections, Molly’s Gateway is a big arcade, while Kidzoona offers giant inflatables, a ball pit and the chance for children to dress up as builders, firemen, chefs and more. 5/F, Gateway Mall Ekkamai, 02-108-2650/-52. BTS Ekkamai. Open daily 10am-9pm. B180-B330 for kids and B90 for adults. Socks required. ZD7 PLAYTIME — Dominated by a large play-gym area, there’s also a separate space for toddlers, a sandpit, ice skating rink, climbing wall, electric car track and a cafe upstairs. 3-4/F, Park Lane, Ekkamai Rd., 02-382-0077. BTS Ekkamai. Open Mon-Thu 9am-6pm, Fri-Sun 9am-7:30pm. B210-350 for kids and B110 for adults. www.playtime.co.th ZC7
WTF
NOW SHOWING HUMAN SHELL DATE: THROUGH OCTOBER 24 White Space Gallery, 1 Sala Daeng Soi 1, Bangkok. 02-235-2500. www.whitesp-cegallery.com. MRT Lumhini. YF12 Kraising Sudsa-nguan’s paintings draw inspiration from the four elements—earth, water, wind and fire—and their relationship to the human body.
DEVI DATE: THROUGH OCTOBER 12 100 Tonson Gallery, 100 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd., Bangkok. 02-684-1527. YN20 Thanet Awsinsiri’s new large-scale acrylic paintings of nudes question various perspectives on the female body.
UNIDENTIFIED FAMILIAR OBJECTS DATE: THROUGH SEPTEMBER 21 WTF Cafe & Gallery, 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51, Wattana, Klongton-Nua. 02-662-6246. www.wtfbangkok.com YF12 Makha Sanewong Na Ayuthaya’s installation of mundane objects, such as school chairs and desks, tin weighing scales and angle-poise lamps, evokes nostalgia and questions the relationship between meaning and function.
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NIGHTLIFE DOWNTOWN AXIS & SPIN — Split over the two top floors of this centrally located hotel, Axis & Spin offers up striking panoramic views and combines vintage decoration with modern design. Interesting cocktails, special nights and DJs, too. 38-39/F, The Continent Hotel, 413 Sukhumvit Rd. (between Sukhumvit sois 21-23), 02-686-7000. Open daily 6pm-1am. tinyurl.com/ntak4oe ZC3 CLOUD 47 —The bar on the rooftop of the United Centre in the heart of Silom offers drinks at affordable prices in an airy setting. With its menu of pub snacks and white sofas, the place just asks for you to order drinks to share, from a draught beer to a tower of Absolut vodka. 47/F, United Center, Silom Rd., 091-889-9600. BTS Sala Daeng. Open Mon-Sat 5pm-midnight. XG10 HORIZONS — The final element of “Heaven,” a complex of restaurants that crowns the Zen Department Store, Horizons is a tapas bar which combines fusion cuisine, stunning views and great cocktails influenced by molecular techniques. 19/F, Zen Department Store, Central World Rama 1 Rd., 02-101-0900. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 5pm-1am. www.horizonsbangkok.com YM18
Y PICK HYDE & SEEK — Elevated pub grub, one
of Bangkok’s best cocktail menus and décor that conjures up a delightful blend of Victorian drawing room style and NYC sophistication make for a winning combination. Athénée Residence, 65/1 Soi Ruamrudee, 02-168-5152-3. BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily 11-1am. www.hydeandseek.com YM21
KU DE TA— This sophisticated setting offers city views and a host of outlets: an intriguing cocktail list at KU Bar; an Aztec temple-theme at The Club; a contemporary Japanese tavern at Izakaya; while Signature serves up modern Asian fine-dining. 39-40/F, Sathorn Square Building, 98 Sathorn Rd., 02-108-2005. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open daily 6pm-midnight. www. kudeta.com XH12
Y SPOTLIGHT
LONG TABLE — Striking opulence, from the glittering entrance lights to the 24-meter dining table and even a swimming pool. But they all play second fiddle to the impressive view of Bangkok’s skyline from the spacious open-air terrace. 25/F, Column Building, 48 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02-302-2557-9. Open daily 5pm-2am. www.longtablebangkok.com ZD3
SUKHUMVIT SOI 11
Y PICK MAGGIE CHOO’S — Quirky styling and
GRAMERCY PARK — Taking its inspiration from the New York park of the same name, it features lots of bright furniture in a garden vibe, plus graffiti by local artists. The place serves up ceviche, sushi and sashimi, and refreshing cocktails. 35/F, Fraser Suites, Sukhumvit Soi 11, 083-542-1111. Open daily 6pm-2am. ZA1
surreal concepts like busts of Queen Victoria and a real-life noodle shop entrance help portray the story of a post-war Chinese lady, Maggie Choo, who opened a secret “speakeasy” bar in an old trading post’s bank vault. 320 Silom Rd., next to Novotel Fenix Silom, 02-635-6055. Open daily 7pm-2am. www.facebook.com/ maggiechoos XJ10
APOTEKA — Features 19th-century apothecaryinspired décor and a cocktail list of “antidotes” like Penicilin and Mr. Hyde. Regular live bands with a blues leaning. 33/28 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 090-626-7655. Open Mon-Thu 5pm-1am; Fri-Sat 5pm-2am; Sun 3pm-midnight. ZA1
MOON BAR — This sky-high open-air rooftop bar offers a panoramic view of the city, with telescopes on hand to provide close-up views. Great for sunsets—arrive early to get one of the more comfortable seats. 61/F, Banyan Tree, 21/100 Sathorn Rd., 02-679-1200. Open daily 5pm-1am. XF13
LEVELS — Decked out with a huge LED chandelier above a circular bar and a bunch of monochrome sofas surrounding a sizeable dance floor, this cavernous venue aims for a rather swanky audio-visual clubbing experience. 6/F, Aloft Hotel, 35 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 082-308-3246. Open daily 9pm-3am. www.levelsclub.com ZA1
PARK SOCIETY — For a real breath of fresh air and a park view, head up to the top floor of this trendy hotel. Inside is fine dining while the rooftop is all about potent cocktails, lounge tunes and a great view. 29/F, Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 Sathorn Rd., 02-624-0000. MRT Lumpini. Open daily 5pm-1am. tinyurl.com/q7ucfa8 XF2
NEST — Nest offers a perfect blend of sexy sophistication and chillout chic. Lie back on their super comfy daybeds while you enjoy the open air clubby vibe and clubby tones. Rooftop of LeFenix Hotel, 33/33 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-255-0638/9. Open daily 4pm-2am. www.nestbangkok.com ZA1
Y PICK SCARLETT — Perched on Pullman
Q BAR— The Soi 11 institution delivers a heady mix of bass lines and international DJs downstairs. On the 2nd floor, a large outdoor patio, means it’s also a great spot to chill out with friends. Out back, Le Derriere serves up absinthe and oysters a 1900s France setting. 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-252-3274. Open daily 8pm-1am. www.qbarbangkok.com ZA1
Bangkok Hotel G’s top floor, this popular spot features an al fresco terrace with fantastic views, an extensive and affordable wine list, industrial bistro décor and interesting tapas options. 37/F, Pullman Bangkok Hotel G, 188 Silom Rd., 02-238-1991. Open daily 6pm-1am. tinyurl.com/o3cc6tm XH10
THONGLOR/EKKAMAI
A.R. Sutton Engineers Siam Those who visit Bangkok regularly will no doubt be familiar with the theatrical theme bars of Ashley Sutton, which include the likes of Iron Fairies, Mr. Jones’ Orphanage and Maggie Choo’s. His latest (and the only one which Ash still owns) is A.R. Sutton Engineers Siam, a colonial-inspired cocktail lounge that feels like an old British club. It’s as beautiful as his other work, less whimsical perhaps, and successfully manages to feel like it has always been in its tucked-away location at the back of Park Lane on Ekkamai. The homemade cinnamon-infused Sailor Jerry Spice Rum packs quite the punch—a few of those and you’ll be cussing worse than a pirate, if not like Sutton himself. Live classical music on Wed, Fri, Sat and Sun from 9pm. G/F, Park Lane Ekkamai, Sukhumvit Soi 63. Open daily 6pm-midnight. BTS Ekkamai. ZC7
BADMOTEL — This formerly abandoned threestory building has been repainted all in white and offers a glasshouse style ground floor, a sizable courtyard and a low-key rooftop. They also regularly play host to gigs and art shows making it popular with Bangkok’s painfully hip. Next to J-Avenue, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-712-7288. Open daily 5pm1am. www.facebook.com/badmotel ZA6
Y PICK IRON FAIRIES — Like no other bar in
Bangkok, it actually looks more like a Dickensian factory, thanks to the crumbling brick walls and scattering of ancient, industrial machinery that by day is used to make fairies. Yes, fairies. Great Live bands make this place even more special. 394 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-7148875. BTS Thong Lo. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-2am. www.theironfairies.com ZB6
MELLOW — Mellow has proved a huge hit with young, moneyed locals, attracted by the warm, wood-heavy décor with its beams and brick walls, friendly staff, comfort food and decent cocktails. 1/F, Penny’s Balcony, Thonglor Soi 16, 02-382-0064. Open daily 11-1am. ZA6
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NIGHTLIFE MIKKELER — Founded by the renowned ‘gypsy’ microbrewer from Denmark, this venue serves up a range of their unique and often limitededition craft beers in a modern-meets-rustic house-turned-bar. 26 Ekkamai Soi 10, Sukhumvit Soi 63, 02-381-9891. Open daily 5pm-midnight. www.mikkellerbangkok.com ZB7
Y SPOTLIGHT
The Australian Pub & BBQ Unlike some dingy and dimly-lit pubs, this antipodean establishment has a bright and airy atmosphere thanks to the high-ceilinged al fresco bar/seating area out front. There are two projectors and several flat-screen TVs to satisfy sports fans, while on the second floor you’ll find a separate bar and dining area. On the menu is hearty pub grub like Australianstyle nachos and steak-and-apple pie. Beer fans will love the wide choice of Aussie ales, kept cool by an ice trough which runs the length of the bar. 37 Sukhumvit Soi 11, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-651-0800. Open daily 9am-2am.
MYST — Set on the rooftop of Grass, overlooking the bustling street, the real draw of Myst is the impressive selection of creative cocktails like Myst’s signature Marshmallow. Rooftop, Grass, Thonglor Soi 12, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 080-770-9800. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-2am. www.mystthonglor.com ZB6 OCTAVE — This multi-level rooftop bar and restaurant offers stylish modern-industrial décor that is accentuated by great views over Sukhumvit from the top deck. 45/F, Marriott Bangkok Sukhumvit, Sukhumvit Soi 57, 02-7970000. Open daily 6pm-1am. www.facebook. com/octavemarriott ZC6 PERFUME — This fragrance-inspired bar serves up molecular cocktails, European fusion food and innovative shisha flavors. The outside zone sees a few low tables and sofas and some rather striking red geometric metal structures for decoration. Ei8ht Thonglor, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-714-8071, Open daily 10am-1am. www.facebook.com/ PerfumeBarAndRestaurant ZC6
Y PICK WTF — A collaboration between an art
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Wax THE AUSTRALIAN PUB & BBQ
Opened earlier this year, Wax is an underground late-night entertainment spot with free entry allnight long and an open bar from 10pm-midnight. Decked out with chandeliers, gold sofas and a quality sound system, the club features an international guest DJ line-up that includes Jesse Garcia from Spain (Sep 18), DJ Agent from Berlin (Sep 24), and Joei Lai from Hong Kong (Sep 25). Every Tuesday, the ‘Boys’ Night Out’ deal lets you take advantage of 20-percent discount on all liquor bottles. 37 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 082-308-3246. Open daily 10pm3am. www.facebook.com/WaxBangkok
WAX
curator, a hip hotelier and a photojournalist, WTF is actually a hybrid bar and exhibition space that’s popular with Bangkok’s creative expats and local hipsters. 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-662-6246. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-1am. www.wtfbangkok.com ZC5
RIVERSIDE BAMBOO BAR — This venerable spot in Mandarin Oriental hotel has been around forever but the music in the cozy L-shaped bar remains first rate and the drinks expertly poured. G/F, Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave., 02-659-9000. www. mandarinoriental.com/bangkok/ XJ9 THREE SIXTY — Located inside the oddlooking UFO-like structure at the top of the Millennium Hilton, this bar offers a 360-degree view to die for. Catch a free boat across the river from Central Pier and head up to the 32nd floor to enjoy a glass of wine and some easy-listening jazz. 32/F, Millennium Hilton, 123 Chareonnakorn Rd., 02-442-2000. Open daily 5pm-1am. tinyurl.com/6qh8kpo BALCO — On the roof of a riverside shopping complex located at a bend in the Chao Phraya River, Balco allows you to look down two watery boulevards dotted with high-rise five-star hotels. The décor isn’t much—a mix of black rattan sofas, TVs showing sports, and private rooms with pool tables—but this hardto-find venue rarely gets crowded, so you’re guaranteed a good seat withou having to book ahead. 5/f, River City Shopping Complex, Charoen krung Rd., 084-928-6161. Open TueSun, 7pm-2am.
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GUIDE TO
SUKHUMVIT 11 NIGHT CLUB A
LATE NIGHT B WAX 082 308 3246 www.waxbangkok.com www.facebook.com/WaxBangkok
Lose yourself in Wax’s hedonistic party space, which features truly opulent decor complete with gold sofas and ornate chandeliers. However, there’s substance as well as style with a state of the art sound system with top international and local DJs spinning cutting edge dance music to a sophisticated party crowd. Open bar daily from 10pm - midnight with free entrance.
LEVELS CLUB & LOUNGE 08 2308 3246 www.levelsclub.com www.facebook.com/levelsclub
Bangkok’s popular nightlife venue located in the heart of Bangkok’s party scene, Levels Club & Lounge, promises an unforgettable partying experience. It offers a world-class audio-visual environment, a sizeable dance floor and features Bangkok’s hottest DJs. There are special weekly promotions like the Thursday’s TOO SEXY Ladies Night, where girls gets three free drinks before midnight. Open daily 9pm til late. Check our website for a full listing of international DJs and promotions for the month of September.
DINING G Asoke Rd.
Petchaburi Soi 19
Soi 15
WEDNESDAY THEME NIGHTS 08 2308 3246 www.levelsclub.com www.facebook.com/levelsclub
Every Wednesday at Levels, get ready to be blown away by four brand new theme shows, rotated weekly! “Rock Star:” sexy heavy metal guys and girls will ROCK you with a medley of rock classics. “Six Packs:” oiled-up and pumped-up hard-bodies will get your juices flowing as they shake their money makers for your entertainment. “Champagne Baby:” tantalizing burlesque performers put on a show inspired by Diita Von Teese. “Future Babes:” sexy robots transport you to the future of clubbing, Levels style! Enjoy these nights throughout September, brought to life thanks to a new state-of-the-art sound and lighting system for the biggest weekly party in Bangkok!
02 651 3313 www.angelcitydiner.com www.facebook.com/angelcitydiner.bkk
Klong Saen Saep
LEVELS EVENTS A
Petchaburi Rd.
ANGEL CITY DINER
Soi 13
Its late opening hours make this one a popular pit-stop for partied-out nightcrawlers. Angel City Diner takes its cues from classic 50s diners: expect lots of stainless-steel, neon signs, a jukebox playing rock n’ roll favorites and that classic checkered flooring. The menu is all-American, too, from hearty grills to massive breakfasts. Roll up your sleeves before tucking into the Angel Burger (patty, blue, cheddar and Swiss cheese, bacon, caramelized onion, mayo) or chili cheese burger (Texas beef chili, jalapeno and cheddar) as well as lots of tasty breakfast options. Open daily 11am-4:30am.
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Soi 11
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G D
B
Soi 9
H
Soi 7/1 Soi 7
PUB F
Soi 5 THE KIWI 02 653 3144 thekiwibangkok.com/en www.facebook.com/Kazbarbangkok
The Kiwi on Soi 8 is a long-time favorite with expats and visitors thanks to its welcoming pub atmosphere, its outdoor terrace and as a good spot to watch live sports. It also has a good reputation for delicious hearty meals from a pub breakfast to classic fish and chips. They also do a “Free BBQ” every Tuesday and a great roast dinner from noon every Sunday. Watch Live sports: NRL, AFL, EPL, F1 and many more.
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OUTDOOR LOUNGE C KAZBAR 02 651 3313 www.facebook.com/Kazbarbangkok
New to Soi 11, The Kazbar is an alfresco street-side Shisha lounge located at the entrance to the Prime 11 building. This “Oasis of 11” boasts a lounge vibe, an intriguing tapas menu, chilled tunes and reasonably priced ice cold beers and specialty cocktails. Open from 6pm till late every day.
Q-BAR
PUB E
Sukhumvit Ratch
Asok Soi 14
adap
Soi 10
1
Nana
Soi 6
Soi 8
H
Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre
THE AUSTRALIAN PUB & BBQ
F
B
Rd.
02 651 0800 www.theaustralianbangkok.com www.facebook.com/TheAussiePub
Rama 4 Rd.
Sukhumvit Rd.
Soi 12
hisek
082 308 3246 www.qbarbangkok.com www.facebook.com/QBarBangkok
Situated in the heart of Soi 11, “The Aussie,” as it’s known to locals, is a great spot for sports fans. In fact, they feature no less than 14 flat screens and two projectors constantly showing live sports from around the world including the AFL and NRL. There’s also live music every day of the week, an impressive pub grub menu that includes specialties like Crocodile Kebabs and a chance to watch the world go by on the street-side terrace.
This well-known fixture on the nightlife scene has been running for over 12 years and was voted Best Bar in Bangkok by readers of leading city living publication BK Magazine. The nightlife institution welcomes international DJs from all over the world as well as Bangkok’s cream of the crop. Fresh from a recent renovation, if you haven’t been to Q-Bar before, then you can now take advantage of a special promotion on Sunday to Thursday, where B500 gets you free entrance and a free bar on standard drinks from 9pm to midnight . Open daily from 9pm til late.
Q BAR EVENTS C
SATURDAYS 082 308 3246 www.qbarbangkok.com www.facebook.com/QBarBangkok
LIVE MUSIC H BANGKOK BEAT 02 651 3919 www.thebankokbeat.com www.facebook.com/bkkbeat
If live music, high-energy and lots of friendly girls is your thing then Bangkok Beat is the place to party! Every night they have two bands playing the best in rock, R&B, pop, hip-hop, funk and classic hits all night long. With a laidback and a very casual atmosphere, the two-story space has a sizeable dance floor and a regular happy hour with B95 drinks from 9pm until midnight from Sunday to Thursday and a ladies night every Tuesday. Open daily 9pm until late.
Enjoy weekly Saturday events at Q Bar this month. Saturday Sep 6 - Decades presents Back To The 80’s! Get set for a “Totally Awesome” 80’s flashback night at Q Bar. Enjoy your favorite classic cocktails as you party to the biggest hits of the 80’s along with the club’s Solid Gold dancers! Saturday Sep 13 - World Tour presents “Welcome to St. Tropez” The event will take you for a taste of St. Tropez with sexy beach girls and French Inspired Cocktails.
Scan the barcode and get discounts or free drinks in these outlets. SEP T EMBER 2014 I W HERE THA ILA N D 25
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HEALTH + WELLNESS Harnn Heritage Spa
This luxe spa is run by Thailand’s leading producer of natural skincare products and has two branches at convenient locations in Siam Paragon and the Emporium shopping mall. Dimly lit and decorated in dark wood, these high-end Thai spas and shops offer a variety of treatments, from a 60-minute uplifting facial treatment (skin exfoliation, uplifting facial massage, revitalizing lymphatic drainage massage, facial mask and hand and foot massage, B2,200) to the 180-minute Journey of Siamese Wisdom (full-body massage, compress massage, water lily purifying facial treatment and a foot massage, B5,900). We recommend the 120-minute Harnn Lifestyle Design (B3,900), which allows you to create your own spa experience by combining two treatments. Don’t leave without peeking through Harnn’s extensive line of products to find great Thai-made products to take back home. 4/F, Siam Paragon, 02-6109715/6. BTS Siam. YM17 4/F, Emporium, 02-664-9935. BTS Phrom Phong. Z4C Open daily 10am-8pm. www.harnn.com
SPA Y PICK AWAY SPA — Beds glow softly in your
choice of green, red, purple or pink, while the dim, labyrinthine halls induce an almost meditative mood. Treatments range from a onehour aroma massage and detox to a four-hand mineral scrub and oil massage. Finally, the Style Lab offers mani, pedi and grooming services. 6/F, W Bangkok, Sathorn Road, 02-344-4000 ext. 4160. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open daily 10am10pm. www.wbangkok.com XH12
BHAWA SPA — This spa blends contemporary design, traditional touches and holistic treatments, from a precious stones detox to mind rejuvenation workshops. 83/27 Witthayu Soi 1, Wireless Road, 02-252-7988. Open daily 10am-11pm. www.bhawaspa.com YN20 BODY TUNE — The “menu” here is short, sweet and to the point: foot reflexology, hand, Thai and oil massage. But what they do, they do well. We prefer to visit the quieter Silom branch. 2/F, Yada Bldg., 56 Silom Rd., 02-238-4377. BTS Sala Daeng. Open daily 10am-midnight. More branches: www.bodytune.co.th XG10 DEVARANA SPA — The impressive white lobby has an almost heavenly quality, while the 14 individual spa rooms are little sanctuaries to enjoy a range of treatments from milk baths to body scrubs. Dusit Thani, 946 Rama 4 Rd., 02-636-3596. Open daily 9am-10pm. www. devaranaspa.com XF10
DIVANA VIRTUE SPA — Tucked down a small soi close to Silom, this spa is authentic yet homey. Situated in a century-old house, decked out in a traditional Rama V style, it sits among a small yet lush garden to create a very private and calming atmosphere. 120 Sathorn Rd., 02-6378883. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open daily 9am-11pm. www.divana-dvn.com XG13
Y PICK ELEMIS SPA — The Elemis Spa is the
Y PICK I.SAWAN — With its chic design and
its classy residential cottages and treatment bungalows, the i.sawan Residential Spa & Club is one of the most beautiful spas in Bangkok. It also houses a full fitness club with squash courts and pool. 5/F, Grand Hyatt Erawan, 494 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-254-1234. Open daily 6am-11pm. www.bangkok.grand.hyatt.com
YN18
brand’s first in Southeast Asia and only the fourth in the world. Its extravagant setting— the city view from the couples’ room is breathtaking—and the Arabian sauna in the Rassoul Chambers are highlights. 15/F, The St. Regis Bangkok, Ratchadamri Road, 02-2077777. BTS Ratchadamri. Open daily 10am10pm. www.stregis.com/bangkok YN18
LE SPA WITH L’OCCITANE — Thailand’s first Le Spa with L’Occitane boasts a modern Thai style combined with elegant French touches. Treatments include the Golden Siamese Massage and Four Teas Ceremony. 9/F, Sofitel Bangkok, 189 Sukhumvit Rd., between sois 1315, 02-126-9999. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Nana. tinyurl.com/lmbgdnz ZB2
HEALTH LAND — Health Land has built its sizeable reputation on a blend of affordable prices, expert masseuses and select surroundings. Lots of branches throughout town also helps. 120 Sathorn Rd., 02-637-8883. Open daily 9am-11pm. More branches: www. healthlandspa.com XH12
LET’S RELAX — With branches around Thailand, and a wide range of packages and trained masseuses, Let’s Relax is a popular day spa. 6/F, Terminal 21, Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-6626935/-37. BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 10am-midnight. More branches: www. letsrelaxspa.com ZB3
I SPA — The treatments offered at this modern spa sanctuary are based on therapies from China, India, Japan and Thailand, using five choices of essential oils based on Asian flowers and herbs. 9/F, The Landmark Bangkok, 138 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-252-9444. BTS Nana. Open daily 10am10pm. www.ispathailand.com ZC1
MULBERRY SPA — Set in a 60s-style residential compound, Mulberry Spa offers the usual selection of treatments amid a classy-yet-cozy ambiance. 132 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-664-1888. MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 9am-11pm. More branches: www.mulberryspa.com ZB3
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HEALTH + WELLNESS OKURA SPA — Situated in a contemporary oriental space, guests can enjoy stress-relieving therapies in five relaxing treatment rooms. Try the signature Okura Take Relief bamboo massage where therapists roll a warm bamboo pole over your muscles as part of an aroma oil massage. 25/F, The Okura Prestige Bangkok, Ploenchit Road, 02-687-9000. BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily 10am-10pm. tinyurl.com/kdyc2ln YM20
S MEDICAL SPA — Founded by a renowned local anti-aging physician, the award-winning spa serves up real beauty from within, with a selection of integrated wellness programs. 2/2 Bhakdi Bldg., Wireless Rd., 02-253-1010. BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily 10am-9pm. www. smedspa.com. YL20
Y PICK SIX SENSES SPA — This famous hotel
chain’s spa sports plenty of wood, for that natural connection, but also boasts great views. Treatments come with a consultation with the spa director to help you select the aesthetic and therapeutic options. 30/F, Two Pacific Place, 142 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-653-2450. BTS Nana. Open Mon-Sat 7am-10pm, Sun 9am6pm. www.sixsenses.com ZB1
SPA@TONSON — This resort-style spa includes nine treatment rooms and utilizes ancient Asian healing techniques through a range of treatments. 5F, Bliston Suwan Park View, 9 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Road, 02-658-7980. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily noon-9pm. www. spatonson.com YN20 THANN SANCTUARY SPA — The treatments use locally-made spa products and are offered within a tranquil space. 3/F, Gaysorn, Ploenchit Road, 02656-1424. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 10am-9pm. www.thann.info YM18 THE ORIENTAL SPA — The Oriental Spa offers four specialty suites, ten private rooms and a huge variety of treatments, covering everything from Thai to Hawaiian therapies. Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave., 02-659-9000. Open daily 9am-10pm. http://tinyurl.com/q4h9oqz XJ9 TRIA — Tria is not just a spa: this sanctuary hidden behind Piyavate Hospital is a rejuvenation center offering integrated programs. With over 50 treatment rooms, there are also hydrotherapy pools, a restaurant and residences for long-term treatments. 998 Ronkhlongsamsen Rd., 02-6602602. Open Mon-Fri 7-10am. Closes Sat 9pm, Sun 8:30pm. www.triaintegrativewellness.com
SOOK SABAI HEALTH MASSAGE — Conveniently located, the French-Indochinese vintage-inspired spa offers a range of treatments from traditional Thai to Balinese massages. 3-4/F, YJA Building, Soi Saladaeng 1, Silom Rd., 02-637-5575. Open daily 10am– 10.30pm. www.sooksabaispa.com XF11
YUNOMORI ONSEN & SPA — Bangkok’s first authentic onsen (hot spring bath house) features water sourced from a hot spring in Ranong, in Southern Thailand. As with traditional onsen in Japan, bathing is done in the nude, though there are separate baths for men and women. A Square, Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02259-5778. Open daily 10:30-midnight. www. yunomorionsen.com
AESTHETIC CLINICS APEX SKIN CENTER — If you’re trying to solve some skin issues, check out this well established and popular skin center for state-of-the-art treatments from Botox to micro-dermabrasion. 3/F, The Emporium, Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02-6448613/-4. BTS Phrom Phong. Open daily 10am9pm. More branches: www.apexskincenter. com ZC6 ASTER SPRING — This international chain of skin care and health spas combines German techniques and products to provide effective facial and body treatments. The philosophy here is no-frills and no-nonsense, just good skin products that offer real results. L/F, Gaysorn, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-656-1421/2. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 10am-9pm. www. asterspringthailand.com YM18 PUTTHARAKSA — From non-invasive face lifts to the derma roller regeneration treatment, Puttharaksa’s aesthetic care is all about helping your body heal itself. Get further support through its anti-aging treatments. 1535 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-391-6336. BTS Phra Khanong. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am-9pm, Sun noon-6pm. www.puttharaksaclinic.com
SO SPA — Perched on the 11th floor of the cuttingedge Sofitel So, it offers the added bonus of a relaxing view over the greenery of Lumphini Park, amid its own soothingly lit, forest-themed décor. Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 Sathorn Nua Rd., 02-624-0000. www.sofitel-so-bangkok.com
TRIA
XF12
SPA BOTANICA — Surrounded by the lush gardens of the Sukothai Hotel, Spa Botanica is a true urban retreat. Their signature spa treatments span two hours and combine the best of oriental massage options. 13/3 South Sathorn Rd., 02-2344-8900. Open daily 9am10pm. www.sukhothai.com XG13
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URBAN RETREAT — Urban Retreat’s various branches offer relaxing havens from the city bustle in the middle of town. 31/10 Soi Phromjai, Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-204-2008. Open daily 10am-10pm. More branches: www. urbanretreatspa.net ZA4
THE FACE AESTHETIC— This standalone venue offers the atmosphere of a proper clinic with some touches of Gallic charm. Treatments are broken down into three main categories: beautification, tackling skin problems and fighting the effects of aging. 7/F, Bangkok Mediplex Centre, 2/30 Sukhumvit Soi 42, 02-712-2334. BTS Ekkamai. Open daily 10am8pm. ZD7
WHERE SPECIAL | Wellness
Sook Sabai Health Massage
Sook Sabai Health Massage is an oasis in the modern jungle that takes you back to the golden era of China’s Qin dynasty and its indulgent palaces. Lounge on a couch, recover from the heat and your busy lifestyle with a refreshing drink, and choose to enjoy one of our treatments. Our skillful therapists promise to deliver the best indulgence for your utmost relaxation. Get to enjoy the Sook Sabai experience every day, from 10:00am – 10:30pm. Sook Sabai Health Massage, 23/13-14 YJA Building 3rd Floor, Soi Saladaeng 1, Silom Rd., Bangrak, Bangkok. For reservations, call 02-637-5575. Email : info@sooksabaispa.com. www.sooksabaispa.com
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SHOPS+SERVICES Siwilai Situated on the fifth floor of Bangkok’s new Central Embassy shopping mall, Siwilai (a word derived from the English ‘civilized’) is a contemporary 826-sq-meter lifestyle store featuring high-end, non-mainstream designer fashion. Across Siwilai’s various sections—men’s and women’s fashion, beauty and grooming, toys and gadgets, Thai handicrafts, vintage accessories—expect to find very luxurious designer goods as well as collaborations not available anywhere else in the world. Standout brands include Thakoon, Damir Doma, Fausto Puglisi, Haider Ackermann, Thom Browne, Maison Kitsuné, Saturdays Surf NYC and Orlebar Brown: Baxter of California, Cire Trudon, Uslu Airlines, and Malin and Goetz. After shopping, visit the Siwalai x Rocket coffee bar, the in-store café offering a good selection of organic food and drinks with sweeping views of the British Embassy’s gardens. Siwilai, 5/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Ploenchit Rd., 02-160-5809/2. BTS Phloen Chit. www.siwilaistore.com YM19
DOWNTOWN AMARIN PLAZA — The mall’s Greco-Roman façade actually hides some unexpected gems. ID1 on the first floor holds a collection of local designers, while the Thai Craft Market on the third floor is good for souvenirs. 496-502 Ploenchit Rd., 02-650-4704. BTS Chit Lom. www.amarinplaza.com YM18 CENTRAL WORLD — This massive complex is home to seven floors, or 550,000 sq meters, of restaurants, cinemas and stores. It’s a good spot for high-street brands like Topshop, Gap and Uniqlo, as well as Thai favorites and also houses an Isetan Department Store. Ratchaprasong Intersection, Ratchadamri Road, 02-635-1111. BTS Chit Lom/Siam. www.centralworld.co.th YM18 CENTRAL CHIDLOM — Opened in 1973, it’s the closest thing Bangkok has to Harrods, and remains the Central Group’s flagship department store. It’s packed with leading brands, like Ralph Lauren, DVF, Coach, Paul Smith and Gucci. Don’t miss the great views from the seventh-floor food court. 1027 Ploenchit Rd., 02-793-7777. BTS Chit Lom. www.central.co.th YM19 CENTRAL EMBASSY— Bangkok’s newest luxury mall dedicates eight floors to retail shops from some of the world’s most exciting fashion brands, including Ralph Lauren, Tom Ford, Christian Louboutin and Jil Sander. Food-wise there are a host of high-end local restaurants alongside popular eateries from around the world, such as dessert bar Chikalicious from New York and French patisserie Paul. There’s also a deluxe cinema on the sixth floor. Next to Central Chidlom, Ploenchit Rd., 02-650-3600. BTS Chit Lom. www. centralembassy.com YM19
ERAWAN BANGKOK — This mini-mall might look petite, but it offers high-end boutiques you can’t find elsewhere, including Comme des Garçons, Alexander McQueen, Stella McCartney, Lanvin and Alexander Wang. 494 Ploenchit Rd., 02-250-7777. BTS Chit Lom. www.erawanbangkok.com YM18
SIAM DISCOVERY — The sister mall of the Siam Center is home to local furniture and decor designers, an ice-skating rink and a Madame Tussaud’s wax museum. Rama 1 Rd., 02-6581000. BTS Siam. www.siamdiscovery.co.th YM16
GAYSORN — Thailand’s boutique high-end mall is compact yet home to numerous luxury international labels (Louis Vuitton, Dior, Prada, and Fendi) and Thai brands like Sretsis, Disaya, Zenithorial and Panpuri. 999 Ploenchit Rd., 02656-1149. BTS Chit Lom. www.gaysorn.com YM18
SUKHUMVIT
MBK CENTER — Clothes, sneakers, suitcases, cameras, mobile phones and souvenirs—you can find it all here and at bargain prices. As a result, the chaotic MBK is packed with haggling tourists. Be warned: cheap doesn’t always mean good quality. Still, it’s a lot of fun and there’s a popular Thai food court on the sixth floor. 444 Phayathai Rd., 02-620-9000. BTS National Stadium. www. mbk-center.co.th YM16 SIAM CENTER — It offers inspirational spaces for art and design, befitting its reputation at the vanguard of the local fashion scene. The highlight is the Fashion Visionary space on the third floor, home to the flagship stores of top Thai designers and multi-Thai-label store The Selected. Rama 1 Road, 02-658-1000. BTS Siam. www.siamcenter.co.th YM16 SIAM PARAGON — With a prime location next to the city’s busiest BTS station, its towering glass façade contains a huge selection of stores, from Hermès and Chanel to street favorites like H&M and Zara, plus Siam Ocean World aquarium, a bowling alley, a concert venue and a multi-screen cinema. 991 Rama 1 Rd., 02-690-1000. BTS Siam. www. siamparagon.co.th YM17
TERMINAL 21 — Boasting an airport terminalcum-international destinations theme, the nine floors let you stop off at the Caribbean, Rome, Paris, Tokyo, London and Istanbul. The lower floors are dedicated to high-street chains, while the upper floors offer intriguing boutiques by Thai designers. There’s also an excellent food court, restaurants and a cinema. 2-88 Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-108-0888. BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit. www.terminal21.co.th ZB3 THE EMPORIUM — Set in the heart of an upscale residential area, The Emporium offers luxury shopping from brands like Hermès, Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Dior and Céline, along with Thai favorites like Jaspal and Jim Thompson. There are also lots of places to eat, a cinema and the Thailand Creative & Design Center on the top floor. 622 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-269-1000. BTS Phrom Phong. www.emporiumthailand.com ZC4
ELSEWHERE RIVER CITY — Situated right on the river, the third and fourth floors of this mall are packed with boutique stores selling the very best in Thai and Southeast Asian artefacts. You can also take advantage of the terrace-side bars and restaurants on the ground floor, which offer great river views. Yotha Road, 02-237-0077. Si Phraya Pier. www.therivercity.com.
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SHOPS+SERVICES ASIATIQUE — This evenings-only shopping center on the banks of the Chao Phraya River is themed according to the city’s old architecture. Divided into sections, ranging from the waterfront to a 100-year old refurbished sawmill, it includes over 1,500 boutiques covering quirky fashions and intriguing souvenirs, plus a variety of eateries and wine bars. Asiatique is also home to a large ferris wheel, Calypso Cabaret, Joe Louis puppet theater and the dramatic new show Muay Thai Live. Free ferry from Sathorn Pier (BTS Saphan Taksin). 2194 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-108-4488. Open daily 4pm-midnight. www.asiatiquethailand.com. OP PLACE — Situated in a beautiful neoclassicalstyle building close to the river, this luxury mall oozes charm from the sweeping wooden staircase to the antique lift. It’s home to a host of high-end boutiques offering unique and rare antiques and artifacts from across Southeast Asia, handcrafted jewelry, bespoke tailors and fine art. There’s also a free shuttle service to the nearby OP Garden, which houses art galleries, restaurants and high-end boutiques. 30/1 Charoenkrung Soi 38, 02266-0186. XJ9
MARKETS CHATUCHAK MARKET — Better known by locals as JJ, Chatuchak is a vast weekend market. More than 15,000 retailers occupy the 27-acre space, which is broken down into 27 roughly categorized sections. You can literally spend days amid the warren of stalls, but if you have limited time, then this is the general breakdown: books are in Section 1, while Sections 2-4 are home to young fashion designers. Sections 5-6 have vintage clothing, and you’ll find art in Sections 7-9. Sections 10-24 offer a real mix of miscellaneous stuff, while Sections 25-27 are dedicated to crafts and home-décor items. Corner of Phahonyothin and Kamphaeng Phet Roads. BTS Mo Chit/MRT Kamphaeng Phet. Open Sat-Sun 10am-5pm. TALAD ROD FAI (TRAIN MARKET) — The popular “Talad Rotfai” or train market has now found its feet at its new location behind the Seacon Square Shopping Mall. Featuring a large number of vintage shops, cool bars with live music and food stalls in an open-air setting, the massive weekend night market is packed with character and a hit with shoppers looking to find retro items. The market is open on ThursdaySunday from about 5pm to midnight. Get the BTS to Udomsuk Station and then take a taxi. Sri Nakarin Soi 51, 081-827-5885.
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Y SPOTLIGHT
Thai Craft Fair If you are looking for authentic and ethicallymade products or gifts to take home, check out this fair on Sep 20. There will be more than 50 stalls by independent artisans from all over Thailand selling handmade products including textiles, home décor, baskets, cosmetics, toys and other accessories. There are also workshops to join such as the “Fun Shop by ThaiCraft: Shape your Greetings on a Card,” at which a group of craftspeople from Bangkok’s Khlong Toei community will assist you in making personalized greeting cards. Jasmine City Building, Sukhumvit Soi 23, Open 10am-3pm, near BTS Asok and MRT Sukhumvit. www.thaicraft.org ZB3
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FIND OUT THE LATEST NEWS ON THAILAND AT WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM AND FACEBOOK.COM/WHERETHAILAND
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16
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14
10
14 20
20
The Emporium ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ´Ô àÍ็Áâ¾àÃÕÂÁ
Major Cineplex Sukhumvit
H
Ekkamai àÍ¡ÁÑÂ
5
TO B
Ekkamai Bus Terminal ʶҹբ¹Ê‹§àÍ¡ÁÑÂ
7 11
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STATIO
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SEP T EMBER 2014 I W HERE THA ILA N D 31 15
TO MO CHIT STATION
16
17
18 Petchaburi Rd. ¶¹¹à¾ÃªºØÃÕ
19
20
21
Ratchathewi
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Pantip Plaza ¾Ñ¹·Ô¾Â ¾ÅÒ«‹Ò
Platinum Mall á¾ÅµµÔ¹ÑÁ ÁÍÅÅ
Jim Thompson
12
8/22/14 7:18 PM
Surawong Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃǧÈ
Soi Sukhumvit 39 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 39
7
Soi Sukhumvit 38 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 38
Soi Sukhumvit 16 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 16
3
Soi Sukhumvit 40 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 40
ÊǹÊÒ¸ÒóàºÞ¨¡ÔµµÔ
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Chamchuri Square ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ¨ÒÁ¨ØÃÕÊá¤ÇÃ
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Soi Sukhumvit 26 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 26
Z
Queen Sirikit National Convention Center Èٹ »ÃЪØÁáË‹§ªÒµÔÊÔÃÔ¡ÔµÔ์
Benchakitti Park
J Avenue ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ਠÍÐàǹÔÇ
13
12
SUKHUMVIT7
Soi Sukhumvit 42 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 42
4
1. Adler Subhashok B4 2. Escape Hunt C3 3. Rooftop Gallery A6 4. TCDC C4 5. Kidzooma D7 6. Playtime C7 7. Tentacles A6
TO HUA LAMPHONG STATION
Prommit Hospital âç¾ÂÒºÒžÌÍÁÁÔµÃ
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6
15
10
Phrom Phong
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Soi Sukhumvit 31 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 31
Asok
Art & Attractions
3
9
21
2
1. Almeta Silk A3 2. Terminal 21 B3 3. The Emporium C4 4. Thai Craft Fair B3
6
3 6
Shopping
3
5
Sukhumvit ÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 2
2
16
Jasmine City Building Thai Craft Fair ÍÒ¤ÒèÑÊÁÔ¹ «ÔµÕ้
Terminal 21 ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ à·ÍÁÔ¹ÍÅ 21
Soi Sukhumvit 14 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 14
Soi Sukhumvit 12 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 12
19
1
18
Soi Sukhumvit 24 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 24
Robinson ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ âúԹÊѹ
7
Times Square ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ä·Á Êá¤ÇÃ
8
5
10
Soi Sukhumvit 10 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 10
4
Samitivej Hospital âç¾ÂÒºÒÅÊÁÔµÔàǪ
Soi Sukhumvit 22 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 22
8
11
Soi Sukhumvit 20 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 20
6
Soi Sukhumvit 23 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 23
1
Soi Sukhumvit 19 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 19
11
Soi Sukhumvit 15 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 15
Soi Sukhumvit 13 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 13
15 1
TO MO CHIT STATION
Soi Sukhumvit 4 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 4
5
Almeta Silk
¹Ò¹Ò
C
4 12
19
Nana
B
3
TO BANG SUE STATION
Sukhumvit 51
2
25
«ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 11
A
1
Soi 11
Bumrungrad Hospital âç¾ÂÒºÒÅ ºÓÃاÃÒÉ®Ã
Soi Sukhumvit 3 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 3
9 2
1. Apoteka A1 2. Axis & Spin C3 3. Bad Motel A6 4. Bangkok Betty C4 5. BeerVault B2 6. Long Table D3 7. Clouds B6 8. Fat Gut’z B6 9. Gramercy Park A1 10. Iron Fairies B6 11. Levels A1 12. Mellow B6 13. Mikkeller B7 14. Myst B6 15. Nest A1 16. Octave C6 17. Perfume C6 18. Potion B4 19. Q Bar/Le Derriere A1 20. WTF C5 21. Wine Republic B6
Soi Sukhumvit 63 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 63
used to be the Venice of the East, there is now only really one canal (klong) still used as a means of getting around. Klong Saen Saep canal has a ferry service that runs daily from Bang Kapi in the Eastern suburbs to Phu Khao Thong or the Golden
1. Apex C6 2. Chillax Spa B4 3. Dermaster A7 4. I SPA Landmark C1 5. Oasis Spa C5 6. Le Spa B2 7. Let’s Relax B3 8. Mulberry Spa B3 9. S Sense Spa C7 10. Six Senses Spa B1 11. The Face D7 12. Urban Retreat A4
Nightlife
Soi Sukhumvit 49 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 49
CANAL BOATS—While Bangkok
Z
Health & Wellness
26. The Raw Bar B6 27. Water Library B6
1. 11 Gallery B1 2. Above Eleven A1 3. Appia C4 4. Bo.Lan C6 5. Indus E5 6. Isao C4 7. Khun Churn D7 8. L’Appart B2 9. La Bottega Di Luca B5 10. Little Beast B5 11. Maverick B3 12. Maya C6 13. Near Equal C5 14. Opposite Mess Hall C5 15. Paste A5 16. Peppina B4 17. Phuket Town C6 18. Scalini C5 19. Seven Seas C1 20. Quince C5 21. Siam Wisdom B4 22. Smith C5 23. Soul Food Mahanakorn C6 24. Supanniga Eating Room C6 25. The Local A3
Soi Sukhumvit 55 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 55
Mount in the heart of the Old Town (Rattanakosin Island), stopping off at various piers along the way. Be warned though, the boats don’t wait long at the piers, making getting on and off rather nerve-wracking (and physically challenging). And, due to the unsavory nature of the canal water, any picturesque view is blocked by sheets of tarpaulin to prevent splashing. Fares are B9-B19.
Soi Sukhumvit 36 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 34
AIRPORT LINK—The Airport Rail Link (ARL) is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to get to and from Suvarnabhumi Airport, especially for those traveling light. There are two types of trains: Express Line and City Line. The ARL Express Line runs from Suvarnabhumi Airport to either Phaya Thai (connecting to the BTS) or Makkasan stations (10-minute walk to MRT Petchaburi), and takes 20 minutes. The City Line stops at six stations and takes around 40 minutes. THAI Airways passengers boarding the Express Line can check in their bags at Makkasan station. One-way fares are B15-B45 for City Line and B150 for the Express Line. More information at www. srtet.co.th/en
4
Y
BANGKOK
NAVIGATE 8
7
9
Chamchuri Square ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ¨ÒÁ¨ØÃÕÊá¤ÇÃ
3
10
11 Lumpini Park ÊǹÅØÁ¾Ô¹Õ
TO NATIONAL STADIUM STATION
Si Lom ÊÕÅÁ
Chulalongkorn Hospital âç¾ÂÒºÒŨؿÒŧ¡Ã³
12 ÅØÁ¾Ô¹Õ
Rama 4 Rd.
3
¶¹¹¾ÃÐÃÒÁ·Õ่ 4
12
2
Sala Daeng
Jim Thompson
Soi Sala Daeng «ÍÂÈÒÅÒá´§
ÈÒÅÒá´§
Silom Soi 2
8 6
10
2 Silom Complex
Thaniya Plaza ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ¸¹ÔÂÐ
Soi Convent «Í¤͹áǹµ 13
G
9
6
¶¹¹ÊÕÅÁ
10
Surawong Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃǧÈ
Soi Sukhumvit 63 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 63
13
Si Lom Rd.
Silom Soi 4
3
2 7
Chong Nonsi ª‹Í§¹¹·ÃÕ 9
9
àÍ¡ÁÑÂ
14
STATIO
N
11 4
21
5
X Dining
8 3
µ
TO BEARING STATION
8
Soi Ruam Rudi «Í ËÇÁÄ´Õ
2
4
Pan Rd. ¶¹¹»˜œ¹
City Viva
St. Louis Hospital âç¾ÂÒºÒÅૹµ ËÅØÂÊ
2
Surasak ÊØÃÈÑ¡´Ô์
9 OP Place
1
10
Charoen Krung Rd. ¶¹¹à¨ÃÔÞ¡Ãا
7 1
Saphan Taksin ÊоҹµÒ¡ÊÔ¹
Oriental Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍâÍàÃÕ¹àµÅ
Central Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÒ·Ã TO BANG WA STATION
22
1. Blue Elephant I13 2. Chef Man I13 3. Eat Me G11 4. Jim Thompson H8 5. La Scala F13 6. Le Du G11 7. Le Normandie J9 P 8. Nahm G13 9. Rocket H11 10. Ruen Urai G8 Memorial Bridge Pier 11. Sensi G14 ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊоҹ¾Ø·¸ 12. Somtum Der F11 13. Vesper G11 14 . 661 Silom I10
Chit
1
1
5
Surasak Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃÈÑ¡´Ô์
Mahesak Rd. ¶¹¹ÁàËÊÑ¡¢
I
7
11
Soi Silom 19 «ÍÂÊÕÅÁ 19 9
5
J
2
5
Pramuan Rd. ¶¹¹»ÃÐÁÇÅ 6 7
Soi Sukhumvit 42 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 42
rminal ÁÑÂ
6
6 8
Narathiwat Ratchanakharin Rd. ¶¹¹¹ÃÒÃÔÇÒÊÃÒª¹¤ÃÔ¹·¸Ô์
Ekkamai
EARIN G
5 8
4
H
TO B
TO BANG SUE STATION
4
Sathorn Tai Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒ·Ã㵌
F
7
Sathorn Nuea Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒ·Ãà˹×Í
3
TO HUA LAMPHONG STATION
7 11
SILOM14
13
Lumphini
Nightlife
Ratchawong Pier Bar J9 Q 1. Bamboo ·‹ÒÃҪǧ¤
EXPRESS RIVER BOATS—25These fast and 24
X
3. Devarana9Spa 23 F10 Wat Arun ÇÑ´ÍÃس 4. Divana Virtue Spa I12 5. Health Land H12 3 6. So SPA F12 7. Sook Sabai F116 1 8. Spa Botanica G13 9. The Oriental Spa J9
frequent ferries along the Chao Phraya River are a Tha Tien Piergreat way to get a different perspective on Tha the·‹Phrachan city,Pier Ò¾ÃШѹ·Ã ·‹ÒàµÕ¹ as well as a good option for getting to many of the temples and palaces built along the river. The main Sathorn (Central) pier is located by BTS Saphan Taksin with boats heading upstream from here and stopping off at numerous piers all the way to Nonthaburi. Fares range from 10 B15 to B42 depend1 Shopping 11 also opt for a tourist ticket Wat Phra Kaeo 1 ing on distance. You can 1. Jim Thompson F8 ÇÑ´¾ÃÐá¡ŒÇ Wat Po ÇѴ⾸Ô์ (B150), which allows one-day unlimited travel and 2. OP Place J92 comes with a guide booklet to some of the leading Art & Attractions tourist attractions accessible5 from the river. From 1. Artery Post-Modern Sathorn (Central) Pier, you can also catch free ferGallery I11 Wat Rajapardit 2. Art In Effect F12 ries to many riverside hotels and Asiatique. ÇÑ´ÃÒª»ÃдÔÉ°
3. Artha Gallery J19 4. 338 OIDA F14 5. H Gallery H11 6. Kathmandu Photo Gallery I11 7. Kult Gallery I11 8. Serindia Gallery J9 9. Silom Galleria: CVN/Number 1 Gallery/Thavibu/ India Emporium Tang Gallery I10 ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ Old Siam Plaza ÍÔ¹à´Õ àÍ็Áâ¾àÃÕÂÁ ¹¤ŒÒ ´Ô âÍÅ´ ÊÂÒÁ Health & Wellness 10. White Space ËŒTheÒ§ÊÃþÊÔ Gallery F12 China World 1. Away Spa H12 ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ䫹‹Ò àÇÔÅ ´ B urap 2. Body Tune G10 a
2. Cloud 47 G10 3. DJ Station F9 4. Ku De Ta H12 5. Maggie Choo’s J10 6. Moon Bar F13 7. Namsaah G11 8. Park Society F12 9. Scarlett H10 10. Sky Bar J10 R 11. Woo Bar H12
32 W H E R E T H A I L AND I S EPTEMBER 2 0 1 4 S
SKYTRAIN/UNDERGROUND—The
BTS skytrain Wat stops at Bangkok’s main districts and Suthat ÇÑ´ÊØ·Ñȹ gives you a bird’s eye view of the city. There are two main lines: the Silom Line, which runs from across the river in Bang Wa to National Stadium next to MBK Shopping Centre; and the Sukhumvit Line, which runs from Soi Bearing in the eastern part of the city along Sukhumvit before heading up north to Mo Chit station by the Chatuchak Market. Siam is the interchange station between the two Rd. Fares are B15-52. Unlimited day passes are ¶¹lines. ¹ºÙþ Ò B130.
2
The underground, or MRT, is one line but has an 26 27 28 extensive reach, from Hua Lamphong train station Siriraj Piyamaharaj Karun Hospital (SiPH) on Wang the Lang outskirts of Chinatown, down through the Pier âç¾ÂÒºÒÅÈÔÃÔÃÒª ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÇѧËÅѧ » ÂÁËÒÃÒª¡ÒÃس main Central Business District7 before turning North and heading up Ratchadapisek Road past Chatuchak Market and ending at Bang Sue station. Fares are B16-B40. There are three interchange stations: (1) BTS Asok—MRT 4 Sukhumvit, (2) BTS Sala Daeng—MRT Silom and (3) BTS Mo Chit—MRT Chatuchak. 1
Tickets can be bought for individual journeys, 3 5 Phra Athit Pier or you can get special one-day tourist passes or ·‹Ò¾ÃÐÍҷԵ tickets that cover a specified number of trips. For Chana Songkram more information,Watgo to www.bts.co.th and www. ÇÑ´ª¹Ðʧ¤ÃÒÁ bangkokmetro.co.th. Note that the BTS and MRT use different ticketing systems. Police Station ʶҹյÓÃǨ
TAXIS—In Bangkok metered taxis are readily available and very affordable, with fares starting from B35 for the first two kilometers. Despite their many colors, there’s no difference in prices and service. Some drivers speak limited English, so do get your destination written down in Thai to avoid any miscommunication. Taxis sometimes try to Democracy Monument negotiate a price. Make sure to only pay the me͹ØÊÒÇÃÕ »ÃЪҸԻäµÂ tered price. There are now also a number of mobile 6 phone applications and services for those who Wat Ratchanadda ÇÑ´ÃÒª¹Ñ´´Ò
8
Wat Saket ÇÑ´ÊÃÐࡵØ
Navigate_September_2014.indd 32
8/22/14 7:18 PM
7
8
9
Chamchuri Square ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ¨ÒÁ¨ØÃÕÊá¤ÇÃ
3
10
ÊÕÅÁ
Chulalongkorn Hospital âç¾ÂÒºÒŨؿÒŧ¡Ã³
12
3
7
¶¹¹¾ÃÐÃÒÁ·Õ่ 4
12
2
Sala Daeng
Jim Thompson
Soi Sala Daeng «ÍÂÈÒÅÒá´§
ÈÒÅÒá´§
Silom Soi 2
8 6
10
2 Silom Complex
Thaniya Plaza ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ¸¹ÔÂÐ
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Soi Sukhumvit 42 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 42
5
Mahesak Rd. ¶¹¹ÁàËÊÑ¡¢
I
8 3
7 1
9 OP Place
ATMS—ATMs are very common in Bangkok and
VAT REFUNDS—Visitors to Thailand who make purchases of goods valued B5,000 or over Chong Nonsi ª‹Í§¹¹·ÃÕ from stores displaying the “VAT REFUND FOR 4 of 5 a refund TOURISTS” sign are eligible to receive 9 9 the VAT paid on the item. At the time you purchase the item present your passport and ask the sales assistant at the store toPramuan complete the VAT Refund Rd. ¶¹¹»ÃÐÁÇÅ 6 attaching 7 the original Application for Tourists form, Rd. ¶¹¹»˜ œ¹ airport, and tax invoices to the form.Pan Then at the 14 before you check-in,1 present your goods and the refund form to customs After check-in and Soi Silom 19 «ÍÂÊÕÅÁ officers. 19 9 immigration, proceed to the VAT Refund Office ¶¹¹ÊØÃÈÑ¡´Ô์ under in the departure lounge.Surasak RefundRd.amounts 5 B30,000 will be made in cash (Thai Baht) or by 10 bank draft or credited to your credit card account. Charoen Rd. ¶¹¹à¨ÃÔ Þ¡Ãا draft Refunds over B30,000 willKrung be made by bank or credited to your credit card account.
Ekkamai
TO B
6 8
Narathiwat Ratchanakharin Rd. ¶¹¹¹ÃÒÃÔÇÒÊÃÒª¹¤ÃÔ¹·¸Ô์ can be found in most areas of Thailand, often lo-
TUK-TUKS—Tuk-tuks are a noisy but fun way
6
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erally from 8:30am to 3:30pm, Monday through Friday except on public holidays and bank holidays. Banks in malls open daily, 10am-8pm.
¶¹¹ÊÕÅÁ
Si Lom Rd.
Surawong Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃǧÈ
Soi Sukhumvit 63 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 63
13
BANGKOK
NAVIGATE
5 8
BANKING HOURS—Banking hours11 are gen-
Soi Convent of getting around Bangkok, not to «Í¤͹áǹµ mention great 13 photo opportunities. However, they are no guaran2 tee of beating the infamous traffic 3and you should agree on a price before getting 7 in. 6 Haggle hard but be wary of any cheap offers if you don’t want an unexpected trip to a tailor or gem store.
want to hail a cab without having to hit the streets. Silom Soi 4 The three main apps are Easy Taxi (www.easytaxi. com/th), 10 Grab Taxi (grabtaxi.com/bangkok-thailand/) and Uber (www.uber.com/cities/bangkok). G of these are in English language and may charge All 4 a small ordering fee on top of the meter price.
TO BANG SUE STATION
4
cated outside of 7-Eleven stores. You should easily be11able to use overseas cards to withdraw money. 1
5
4
Oriental Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍâÍàÃÕ¹àµÅ
J
Dining
Sathorn Tai Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒ·Ã㵌
F
erminal ¡ÁÑÂ
14
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Sathorn Nuea Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒ·Ãà˹×Í
3
TO HUA LAMPHONG STATION
7 11
13
Lumphini
Rama 4 Rd.
9
City Viva
St. Louis Hospital âç¾ÂÒºÒÅૹµ ËÅØÂÊ
W
5. Rattanakosin Exhibition Hall S26 1. Eat Sight Story P23 6. Royal Barge 2. Supatra Riverside P26 Surasak Museum P27 ÊØÃÈÑ¡´Ô์ P23 3. Sala Rattanakosin 7. The Queen’s 4. Seven Spoons T27 1 Gallery S27 5. Sheepshank Q27 8. Wat Arun 6. The Deck P23 (Temple of Dawn) P22 Art & Attractions 9. Wat Phra Kaeo 1. Grand Palace/Mu(Temple of the Emerald Saphan seum of Textiles Q25 Taksin Buddha) Q25 ÊоҹµÒ¡ÊÔ¹ 2. Museum Siam Q23 10. Wat Po Q24 3. National Gallery Q27 Nightlife 4. National Museum Central Pier 1. Babble & Rum Q27 ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÒ·Ã Q27 2
TO BANG WA STATION
21
22
23
9
24
Wat Arun ÇÑ´ÍÃس
25
2 Tha Phrachan Pier ·‹Ò¾ÃШѹ·Ã
Tha Tien Pier ·‹ÒàµÕ¹
6 1
RATTANAKOSIN28
26
27
Wang Lang Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÇѧËÅѧ
Siriraj Piyamaharaj Karun Hospital (SiPH) âç¾ÂÒºÒÅÈÔÃÔÃÒª » ÂÁËÒÃÒª¡ÒÃسÂ
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11 Memorial Bridge Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊоҹ¾Ø·¸
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4
Wat Phra Kaeo ÇÑ´¾ÃÐá¡ŒÇ
Wat Po ÇѴ⾸Ô์
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Wat Rajapardit ÇÑ´ÃÒª»ÃдÔÉ°
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2
R
Soi Ruam Rudi «Í ËÇÁÄ´Õ
3
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Si Lom
India Emporium ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ÍÔ¹à´Õ àÍ็Áâ¾àÃÕÂÁ
The Old Siam Plaza ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ´Ô âÍÅ´ ÊÂÒÁ China World ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ䫹‹Ò àÇÔÅ ´
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SEP T EMBER 2014 I W HERE THA ILA N D 33
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Soi Sukhumvit 42 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ·
Soi Sukhumvit 38
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Queen Sirikit National Convention Center Èٹ »ÃЪØÁáË‹§ªÒµÔÊÔÃÔ¡ÔµÔ์
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Soi Sukhumvit 36 «ÍÂÊØ¢Ø
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Soi Sukhumvit 26 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ·
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Soi Sukhumvit 24 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁ
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15
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18 Petchaburi Rd. ¶¹¹à¾ÃªºØÃÕ
19
SIAM21
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Central Chidlom Central Embassy ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ à«็¹·ÃÑŪԴÅÁ à«็¹·ÃÑÅàÍ็ÁºÒÊ«Õ่
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ESSENTIAL NUMBERS Emergency Services (Fire Brigade, Police) 191 Airport Rail Link 02-308-5600. airportraillink.railway.co.th Bangkok Mass Transit System (BTS) 02-617 6000 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bts.co.th BTS Tourist Information Center : 02-617-7340-1 (daily: 8am-8pm). www.bts.co.th
Henri Dunant Rd. ¶¹¹ ÍѧÃÕ´Ù¹Ñǵ
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Bangkok Metro (MRT) 02-624-5200 (daily 6ammidnight). www.bangkokmetro.co.th Chao Phraya Express Boat Call Center 02-623-60013 (6am-7pm). www.chaophrayaexpressboat.com Suvarnbhumi International Airport 02-132-1888. www.suvarnabhumiairport.com Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) – 1672 from Thai numbers. www.tourismthailand.org
Dining
1. Bawarchi M18 2. Le Beaulieu N21 3. Elements M20 4. Erawan Tea Room N18 5. Gaggan O19 6. Jim Thompson Restaurant & Bar L15 7. Kisara/Reflexions N21 8. Shintori/Ying Yang/ Zense/Horizons M18 9. Shintaro N18 10. Sra Bua L17 11. Zuma N18
Nightlife
1. Falabella O18 2. Hyde & Seek M21 3. The Speakeasy N19 4. The St Regis Bar N18
13. Thann Sanctuary Spa M18
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Shopping
1. Amarin Plaza M18 2. Central Chidlom M19 3. Central Embassy M19 4. Central World M18 5. Erawan Bangkok M18 6. Gaysorn M18 7. MBK Center M16 8. Pantip Plaza K17 9. Platinum Mall K18 10. Siam Center/Siam Discovery M16 11. Siam Paragon M17 12. ZEN L18
Art & Attractions
1. 100 Tonson Gallery N20 2. Bangkok Art & Culture 1. Aveda M17 Centre (BACC) M16 2. Aster Spring M18 3. Jim Thompson Art 3. Bhawa N21 Center & House L1 5 4. Elemis Spa N18 4. KidZania M17 5. i.Sawan N18 4. Madame Tussauds 6. Kempinski The Spa L17 M16 7. Okura Spa M20 5. Siam Ocean World 8. Panpuri Spa M18 M17 9. Rarinjinda N19 6. Sombat Permpoon 10. Romrawin M19 Gallery L21 11. S Medical Spa L20 12. Spa@Tonson N20
Health & Wellness
34 W H E R E T H A I L AND I S EPTEMBER 2 0 1 4
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21 THINGS WE LOVE about Bangkok
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!1 1 Checking out the quirky stores, restaurants and bars, and the Asiatique Sky Ferris wheel, at the retro-inspired, open-air riverside mall Asiatique the Riverfront (www.thaiasiatique.com).
6 Enjoying a VIP cinema experience at Enigma at Paragon Cineplex. (www.majorcineplex.com), where you can lie down under a duvet and even enjoy a glass of wine.
4
9
!3
!0
!1 Exploring Bangkok’s Chinatown
!6 Getting a fresh perspective on the
and learning about the history of Bangkok’s early Chinese immigrants before sampling authentic dishes at the neighborhood’s various food stalls. (along Yaowarat Road).
history of Thailand with a visit to the interactive exhibitions of the Museum Siam (www.museumsiam.com).
7 Getting lost in the maze of alleys 2 Exploring the Jim Thompson House (BTS National Stadium, www. jimthompsonhouse.com), the former residence of secret agent and silk tycoon. The complex of Thai teak houses packed with Asian antiques is also home to a shop, restaurant and an exhibition space.
3 Catching the train from Bangkok to Ayutthaya, Thailand’s former capital city and home to numerous ancient temples like Wat Phra Mahthat and Wat Maheyong (see page 12).
at Chatuchak Weekend Market (BTS Mo Chit/MRT Kamphaeng Phet), home to everything from the latest local fashion (see page 5) to modern Thai art.
!2 Taking a bicycle tour around the
8 Admiring the gorgeous old
!3 Admiring the work of established
teak buidlings and learning about Thailand’s royal history at Vimanmek Palace (www.vimanmek.com).
and emerging Thai and international artists at the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BTS National Stadium, www.bacc.or.th).
9 Getting a tension-relieving Thai massage at the spiritual home of the art, Wat Pho, also home to the famous 46-meter-long reclining Buddha (www.watpho.com).
4 Browsing for luxury fashion brands at the countless boutiques and high-end malls of Ratchaprasong Avenue (BTS Chit Lom).
5 Taking in the sophisticated floral displays at the Museum of Floral Culture (www.facebook.com/ fansofsakulintakul).
floating market, lush plantations and crumbling temples of Bang Krajao, named the lung of Bangkok. For tours, try www.spiceroads.com.
!4 Watching the awe-inspiring sight of thousands of bats stream out of their cave to go hunting for the night at the beautiful Khao Yai National Park, just 2.5 hours away.
!0 Catching a free, traditional Thai puppet show at Baan Silapin, an artist’s community that preserves traditional ways of life. Visit as part of your canal tour along Klong Bang Luang (02-868-5279, thaipuppeteer@gmail.com).
!5 Indulging in a 2.5-hour Heavenly Nantha Garden Experience, which includes a bath, body scrub and therapeutic massage at Dusit Thani Hotel’s Devarana Spa (www. deveranaspa.com).
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!7 Shopping for unique vintage finds, sipping candy-colored cocktails and mingling with Bangkok’s hipsters all in an extremely laidback atmosphere at Talat Rodfai (see page 29).
!8 Sampling authentic Thai dishes served up at Nahm at the Metropolitan Hotel in Bangkok (www.tinyurl.com/l7py6wg), recently voted Asia’s top restaurant.
!9 Drinking in the cityscape view from the al fresco bar of Octave (www.marriott.com) on top of the Bangkok Marriott Sukhumvit Hotel.
@0 Staying up late, or getting up early, to experience the chaos of the daily flower trading at Pak Klong Talat, Thailand’s largest flower market.
@1 Admiring the antiques and the Art Deco-inspired style created by famous architect Bill Bensley at The Siam (www.thesiamhotel.com).
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