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F E B RU A R Y 2 0 1 5 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO ®
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A Taste of Samui Valentine’s Day Shopping Ideas
Romantic Rendezvous Bangkok’s best couples’ experiences during the month of love
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CONTENTS where
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l THAILAND l FEBRUARY 2015
The Guide BANGKOK 25 DINING The best casual Thai bistros where drinks are just as important as the food.
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28 NIGHTLIFE The legendary Mandarin Oriental's revamped Bamboo Bar and its fellow jazzloving watering holes.
LOVE IS IN THE AIR
The most romantic experiences to celebrate Valentine's Day.
32 HEALTH+WELLNESS Relax your muscles at these five beautiful spas set in stately pavilions and venues.
SHOPPING
33 SHOPS+SERVICES
10 MONSIEUR MADAME The best boutiques to find perfect gifts for him and her, from tailored suits to locally-designed womenswear and luxe aromatherapy products.
AROUND THAILAND
Our favorite night markets and a beautiful new ceramics boutique blending tradition and modern design.
34 ARTS+ATTRACTIONS Where to view the finest exhibitions in town, such as John Thomson's stunning 19th century photographs.
12 NEWS
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Art exhibitions, new hotels and racing events in the Kingdom.
35 PROPERTY
16 SAVORING SAMUI
Dream beach condos for those who never want to leave.
The best places to eat and drink on the Gulf of Thailand's swankiest island.
36 NAVIGATE
EXPLORING
Essential tips on getting around.
20 OLD TOWN
20 Managing Editor/Product Director Grégoire Glachant General Manager Andrew Hiransomboon Managing Editor Oliver Irvine Deputy Editor Carl Dixon Regional Marketing Manager Pavida Chitprasertsuk Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Art Director Dechart Sangsawang Senior Designer Panita Thiraphapong
Bangkok's historic heart isn't just museums, temples and palaces. There are also plenty of cool spots to sip a drink or tuck into some Thai food on the way.
ALSO INSIDE
22 UPPER SILOM
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This area has had a recent rebirth of sorts, with edgy cafés, galleries and nightclubs moving in—not to mention the opening of L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon.
38 21 THINGS WE LOVE
Contributors Vasachol Quadri, Monruedee Jansuttipan, Kanin Srimaneekulroj, Lily Kittisrikangwan, Tewit Phanitprachaya Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Marketing Executive, Creative Services Puttipat Teerakawongsakul Distribution Executive Suda Angsuputiphant On the cover (clockwisefrom top left) L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon, Devarana Spa, Octave Rooftop Lounge, China House, Wat Arun
MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP | EXECUTIVE Vice President, Operations Donna Kessler Vice President, Operational Innovation Russ Leseberg Director Of Marketing Lynn Basinger
MVP | NATIONAL SALES Director Of National Sales And Custom Publishing Anthony Karwoski National Sales Managers Jennifer O'loughlin, Julie Humeas, Monica Weeks, Wanda Garcia-Fetherston
facebook.com/wherethailand
www.wherethailand.com
National Traffic Coordinator Leleah Robinson
E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris. Com
MVP | CARTOGRAPHY AND CIRCULATION General Manager, Where Maps Christopher Huber
MORRIS COMUNICATIONS Chairman & Ceo William S. Morris III President William S. Morris IV
Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 22/F, Silom Center 2 Silom Road, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: where@asia-city.co.th
HOT DATES
MVP | CREATIVE Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson Editorial Director, Visitor Guides Don Hoffman
Design Director Jane Frey Editorial Director, Custom Publishing Linda Chase Creative Coordinator Beverley Mandelblatt
MVP | TECHNOLOGY & MANUFACTURING Director Of Manufacturing Donald Horton E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.Com
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HOT DATES
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FEB 17
PEOPLE’S PARTY
With strong Chinese communities spread across Thailand, celebrations can be found across the country to welcome Chinese New Year. In Bangkok, Chinatown is the center of festivities, which stretches across Yaowarat and Charoenkrung roads, where you can find a sea of people dressed in red gathering to welcome the Year of the Goat. Expect colorful parades, Thai-Chinese cultural performances, fancy decorations, street stalls selling Chinese delicacies, Chinese film screenings and plenty more. Chinatown, MRT Hua Lamphong
FEB 14-15
FEB 17
FEB 21
FEB 24-MAR 15
MAKE SOME NOISE
DRESSED FOR SUCCESS
A KOREAN THING
THE GREAT BEAUTY
The fourth edition of the much-loved music and art-focused Noise Market returns to the grounds of Museum Siam over the Valentine’s weekend, bringing handmade crafts and live performances by the best of independent local acts back to Rattanakosin Island. Only a few steps away from the Grand Palace and Wat Pho, this makes a great opportunity to see what this old part of the city has to offer.
Popular Bangkok party organizer Dudesweet presents a concert by the American singer/songwriter Tom Krell, or as he’s better known, How to Dress Well. The fractured, R&Bindebted tunes of his latest album, What Is This Heart?, were dubbed some of 2014’s “Best New Music” by the online indie music journal Pitchfork. Space is limited so reserve your tickets at ow.ly/HprHe.
In Bangkok, K-pop is big, and fans never have to wait long for the next spectacular concert. This month sees Taeyang, the pint-sized member of Korean R&B sensation Big Bang, come to town for 2015 Taeyang World Tour “Rise.” His first full-scale solo tour follows the release of several of his own hits, and takes place at Bangkok’s largest concert arena. Tickets available through thaiticketmajor.com.
Disney’s award-winning Beauty and the Beast—The Original Broadway Musical Spectacular finally lands in Bangkok after 13 years of successful performances across 22 countries around the world. The epic love story will be reproduced by the original Broadway team. Shows run Tuesday through Sundays, with extra matinee (2pm) performances every weekend. Tickets available on thaiticketmajor.com.
4pm-10pm. Museum Siam, 4 Sanam Chai Rd.
9pm. Overtone, RCA Zone D, Rama 9 Rd. MRT Phetchaburi
5pm. Impact Arena, Muang Thong Thani, 99 Popular Rd.
7:30pm. Muang Thai Rachadalai Theatre, 4/F, The Esplanade, 99 Ratchadaphisek Rd. BTS Thailand Cultural Centre
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DINING
CITY OF LOVE
Sweeping views, romantic cruises, indulgent spa treatments and five-star service can go a long way on Valentine’s day.
DINNER WITH A VIEW PARK SOCIETY For a real breath of fresh air and a park view to boot, head up to the 29th floor of the super trendy Sofitel So. Inside is for fine dining with an impressive menu of international cuisine, while out on the rooftop with its soaring columns, it’s all about killer cocktails, lounge tunes and the striking view. For a more intimate night out there’s also a small mezzanine one level up called Hi-So Cabana. 29/F, Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 Sathorn Nua, 02-6240000. MRT Lumphini. Open daily 5pm-1am
PARK SOCIETY
RED SKY The 55th floor view from Centara’s rooftop puts this bar in the same league as high flyers like Vertigo at the Banyan Tree. Al fresco dining and drinking takes place under a swooping, red-lit arch in an environment that is way more relaxed than the adjoining Fifty Five restaurant. Chef Hugo Coudurier prepares a menu focused on high-quality steaks, best enjoyed with a drop from the hotel’s notably excellent wine cellar. KU DE TA
RED SKY
55/F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld, 999/99 Rama 1 Rd., 02-100-6255. Siam. Open daily 5:30pm-1am
DINNER CRUISES MANOHRA
SIGNATURE (KU DE TA) Though better known as a nightclub, Ku De Ta also has an Asian fine-dining restaurant that serves some wonderful food, prepared by a chef who’s previously worked with Eric Ripert and Nobu Matsuhisa (both of whom have had their share of Michelin stars). The main draws include madai shiso (Japanese sea bream with dried miso and shiso lime vinaigrette) and wagyu beef with a marble score of A5 from Omi Prefecture in Japan. The views are something special, too.
This intimate cruise on a restored old rice barge offers two Thai set dinner packages: Gold comprises 12 dishes and Silver eight dishes. Expect to try classic Thai fare like tom yum kung (spicy prawn soup with herbs and lime juice) and massaman nong kai (chicken massaman curry), while enjoying beautiful views of Wat Pho and Wat Arun. Finish your meal with scrumptious Thai desserts like khao niew mamoung (sweet mango with sticky rice). They also serve some great cocktails.
39/F, Sathorn Square, 98 Sathorn Rd., 02-1082000. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open Mon-Sat 6-10pm MANOHRA
Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa, 257 Charoen Nakorn Rd., 02-477- 0770
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GRAND PEARL Leaving the River City Shopping Complex Pier daily at 7:30pm, the three-story ferry includes an open-air seating area as well as air-conditioned cabins. The scenic views are accompanied by live music and classical Thai dance performances, while the international buffet features classic Thai dishes and a sushi corner. River City Shopping Complex Pier, 123-125 Charoen Nakorn Soi 13 (Charoen Nakorn), 02-861-0255
HORIZON BOAT This luxurious, air-con cruiser can fit up to 150 people and sets off from the Shangri-La Hotel’s pier at about 7:30pm, with drinks on deck. The food is served buffet style and has plenty to offer, including seafood, a sushi corner, vegetarian and popular Thai dishes. The boat sails past Bangkok’s riverside attractions then returns to the hotel at about 9:30pm. Runs every day except Monday and Tuesday.
BENJARONG
FINE DINING L’ATELIER DE JOËL ROBUCHON This elegant red and black space has diners seated around a large open kitchen, a format more remniscent of a sushi bar than classic dining a la Francaise. The food remains unmistakebly French, though—think free range quail stuffed with foie gras and potato purée—and has all the finesse you’d expect from Joël Robuchon, the chef with the most Michelin stars in the world. 5/F, 96 Mahanakhon Cube, Narathiwat Ratchanakarin Rd., 02-001-0698. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm
The food at this signature Thai restaurant for the Dusit Thani hotel was given a total revamp by a chef who used to work for Michelin-star restaurant Kiin Kiin’s Bangkok branch. Benjarong is still resolutely Thai as far as flavors go, but incorporates Euopean slow-cooking methods and plates dishes with considerate modern touches. The result is highly refined but also satisfyingly authentic. For the best experience, we recommend opting for one of the seasonal tasting menus. Dusit Thani, 946 Rama 4 Rd., 02-200-9000. MRT Silom. Open daily 6-10pm; Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm
CHINA HOUSE China House is one sexy place: the tiny aquamarine bar, the deep red and black lacquers, the films playing in the toilets. While there are cheaper places with greater reputations, this Chinese restaurant is a winning blend of style and substance. Classics like sweet and sour pork can be truly masterful, while the shrimps in a creamy wasabi sauce never fail to elicit oohs. Our tip: go for the Sunday brunch.
Shangri-La Hotel, Charoen Krung 89, 022367777. BTS Saphan Taksin. Open Wed-Sun 7:30-9:30pm
BENJARONG
Mandarin Oriental, 48 Oriental Ave., 02-659-9000. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 7-10:30pm
GRAND PEARL
CHINA HOUSE
L’ATELIER DE JOËL ROBUCHON
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DINING
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COUPLES THERAPY Check in together for some luxury pampering at Bangkok’s best spas.
SAMBAL
The Peninsula Spa The hotel’s ornate, traditionally decorated spa right beside the Chao Phraya River is running a couples’ package throughout Feb at B12,000. Held in the Spa Suite, the offer includes a two-hour-twenty-minute chocolate body scrub and aromatherapy massage for two, bottle of rosé wine and fresh strawberries dipped in chocolate, served during a rose petal bath. Charoennakorn Rd., 02-861-2888. Open daily 9am-11pm
THE PENINSULA
SALA RATTANAKOSIN EATERY & BAR
RIVERSIDE DINING THIPTARA
This heavenly white spa’s Valentine package is themed around the classic 90s Sandra Bullock rom-com Love Potion No. 9, with two specially introduced lotions. The treatment begins with a body scrub infused with chocolate, strawberries, brown sugar and jasmine, followed by a body massage that uses herbal aromas like basil, lemon and orange flower. The 120-hour package is offered through Feb 28 at B3,900/person and B7,000/couple.
Thiptara means water from the heavens in Thai, a fitting name for the open-air pavilions surrounded by gardens and furnished with antiques and traditional artworks. The kitchen serves up traditional dishes from Thailand’s different regions, such as the restaurant’s signature dishes gaeng phend ped yang (roasted duck in red curry) and pla hima sam rod (deep fried snow fish with spicy, sweet and sour sauce).
946 Rama 4 Rd., 02-200-9999. Open daily 9am10pm www.devaranaspa.com. MRT Silom, BTS Sala Daeng
The Peninsula, 333 Charoen Nakorn, 02-861-2888. Free ferry from BTS Saphan Taksin. Open daily 6-10:30pm
Devarana Spa (Dusit thani)
SALA RATTANAKOSIN EATERY & BAR
AWAY SPA (W Hotel) The mood at this futuristic, labyrinthine spa is a world away from traditional Thai spas. Beds glow softly in your choice of green, red, purple or pink, while the dim-lit halls induce an almost meditative mood. Their 90-minute Valentine’s package (B5,990) including a 60-minute Urban Slumber massage and 30-minute VIP Milk Bath. Available through Mar 31. 106 Sathorn Rd., 02-344-4000. Open daily 10am10pm. BTS Chong Nonsi
This boutique hotel is a welcome addition to the Chao Phraya riverside and offers stunning views of Wat Arun. The renovated four-story shop-house boasts a small number of guestrooms but half of the building is dedicated to wining and dining, courtesy of chef Tony Wrigley, whose restaurant whips up some pretty impressive Thai food. For us though, the highlight is its rooftop bar—the perfect place for sipping a great selection of cocktails. Sala Rattanakosin Hotel, Maharaj Rd., 02-6221388. Open daily 7am-10pm
THIPTARA
SAMBAL The stylish riverside venue serves Southeast Asian cuisine with a contemporary touch. Opt to sit under the enormous banyan tree, close to the cabana-like bar and picturesque river scene. Apart from the five-star views, you can expect delightful dishes like the Bali bouillabaisse—rich in both texture and flavor. There is a good list of tropical-feeling signature cocktails, too, such as Mangkut Drowning: Barbados dark rum with mangosteen puree. Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers, 2 Charoen Krung Soi 30, 02-266-9214. Free ferry from BTS Saphan Taksin. Open daily 6-10:30pm
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SHOPPING
DULY
WOODEN SUBMARINE
PERFECT PRESENTS
Bangkok’s 10 best shops to buy gifts for your loved ones. By Vasachol Quadri
HIM WOODEN SUBMARINE This vintage shop specializes in menswear from New York, both new pieces and old stock, with a focus on 20s-70s military-themed apparel like shirts, jackets, leather bags and boots from brands including Ralph Lauren, WRL, Herman, Jong, Converse and Penney’s. 1/F, Homeplace Building, Thonglor Soi 13, 081-2552866. Open daily noon-8pm
DULY Duly stocks ready-to-wear formal clothes, and offers a tailoring service for suits and shirts. (They can also deliver orders by mail.) They provide a range of different options, for buttons, stitching and collars, as well as a huge choice of quality shirt fabrics from the likes of Thomas Mason in the UK. Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-662-6647/8. Open daily 10am-7pm. www.laladuly.co.th
PINKY TAILOR This is one of the rare tailors that Bangkokians love to recommend. The patriarch, Pinky, still rules over his cramped shop packed to the rafters with bolts of cloth. But we like to get sartorial tips from Win, his son, and to go take a peek at the more upscale fabrics in the other shop they operate nearby. As usual with tailors, it’s good to know precisely what you want, although this is one of the safer tailors for the uninitiated.
PINKY TAILOR
THE SELECTED
PIMP YOUR POCKET
Complete his formal look with a colorful silk pocket square. Here are our favorites from Thai brands.
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Mahatun Plaza Arcade, 888/40 Ploenchit Rd., 02-252-9680, 02-253-5055 Open Mon-Sat 10am7:30pm. www.pinkytailor.com
THE SELECTED The very best in Thai design from emerging talent, from the minimal, contemporary men’s leather accessories of Container (www.containerbag.net), to the funky, graphic-print swim trunks of Timo. There’s also a range of locally-made skincare products like Gla (www.glanature. com)—we love their lip balm and charcoal shampoo—and Laksmi Mantra (www.fb. com/L.Mantra). 3/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000. Open daily 10am-9pm. BTS Siam
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1 Print pocket square (limited edition), Kamui Lim, B2,500 Available via tinyurl.com/nrqnn4s
2 Red polka dot pocket square, Meticulous, B950 Available at Gin & Milk, 3/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000. BTS Siam. www.fb.com/pmithofficial
3 The Hunter camouflage hand-sewn pocket square (limited edition), Kamui Lim, B2,500 Available via tinyurl.com/nrqnn4s
4 Print pocket square, Duly, B2,450 Available at Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-662-6647/8. BTS Phrom Phong. www.laladuly.co.th
5 Blue striped silk pocket square, Jim Thompson, B520 Available at 9 Surawong Rd., 02-632-8100. www.jimthompson.com
6 Feather print pocket square, P.Mith, B490 Available at Gin & Milk, 3/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000. BTS Siam. www.fb.com/pmithofficial
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HER HIS & HER VINTAGE A unique collection of hats, sunglasses and other accessories from the 60s packs both its branches. We love the hats (from B1,200), whether pillbox, bumper or crochet half-hat, as well as the retro clip-on earrings (from B400). Scala Theatre, Siam Square Soi 1, Rama 1 Rd., 089-1149684. Open daily noon-8:30pm. BTS Siam Chatuchak Weekend Market section 5 Soi 55/1. Open Mon-Fri 9am-6pm. BTS Mo Chit. hisandhervintage. com
THE WONDER ROOM This multi-brand store stocks Thai designerlabel women’s accessories and clothing from eight of the city’s hottest designers. Every four months, the shop changes both its décor and the brands it stocks. The first theme for the year is “Fresh Face,” reflected by an interior filled with mirrors and black marble, as well as the work of young Thai brands Kem Issara, Rudimentary, Pitch, Fresh Meat and Virgin Daisies. Note that the products here are exclusive to Siam Center mall.
VUUDH
3/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000. BTS Siam
This Thai company specializes in high-end interior fragrances with an Eastern influence. Its selection of products is limited—candles, diffusers and sprays—but very elegant, much like the store itself. Signature fragances include Bangkok (Siamese jasmine), Shanghai (orange and jasmine) and Singapore (sandalwood and orange blossom).
HARNN
4/F Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-6105826. Open daily 10am-9pm
WANDERLUST This multi-label fashion, jewelry and accessories store features a selection of rare imported products handpicked by owner Sarin Vongkusolkit: women’s hats, rings and necklaces imported from the US, Italy, UK, Spain and Japan. They all come from small, new brands that aren’t available elsewhere in Bangkok. 3/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd. 090-981-9834. Open daily 9am-9pm. BTS Siam
After over a decade in business, Harnn is now Thailand’s leader in spa/skincare products. Though they started selling rice bran soaps, their product range has now expanded to include massage balms and bath oils, shampoos, conditioners and more, all utilizing natural ingredients from pepper and green tea to jasmine and lavender. As well as selling skincare products, their branches at Siam Paragon and The Emporium also have spas.
VUUDH
THE WONDER ROOM
2/F, The Emporium, Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02-664-9935. Open daily 10am-9pm. BTS Phrom Phong 4/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-610-9715-6. Open daily 10am-9pm. BTS Siam LG/F, Central Embassy, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-160-5913. Open daily 10am-9pm. BTS Phloen Chit
THE WONDER ROOM
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THAWAN TRIBUTE
RUSTIC & BLUE
CHIANG MAI
THE NEW RUSTIC One of our favorite recent openings in the Northern capital, the small tearoom Rustic & Blue (Nimman Soi 7, 086-654-7178. Open daily 8am-midnight), has found new digs, just around the corner on Nimmanhaemin Soi 7. Naturally, the place is still very big on rustic décor, with a gleaming oakwood table, hanging plants and black steel shelving. There are even tiny chairs made from hay bales out front. More impressive than the façade is the menu, which is focused on local produce and all-day breakfast. We love the photogenic gluten-free chickpea crust pizza (B265), which you can enjoy with craft beer and cocktails. Also, grab some aromatic herbal teas to take back home.
THE LATEST OPENINGS AND HAPPENINGS AROUND THE KINGDOM PATTAYA
OPEN COURT Marriott is the latest big hotel name to move into Pattaya, with a new sevenstory property near Walking Street called Courtyard by Marriott South Pattaya (038-418-333, bit.ly/1xN6pSV). The hotel consists of 132 rooms ranging from Deluxe and Studio categories to two-bedroom suites. There is a 24-hour gym onsite and they soon plan to launch a massage service, too. SAMUI
COTTAGE PARADISE Long-standing resort Tongsai Bay (077245-480, www.tongsaibay.co.th) recently revealed its new, slender Pool Cottage Suites. Surrounded by nature, the five 88-98-sq-meter cottages each consist of a private 20-sq-meter plunge pool along with open-air terrace and outdoor bathtub. From Feb 1, rates start at B16,000 per night. If you stay more than five nights in a row, you get a free Thai massage at the on-site Prana Spa and a set Thai dinner for two at Chef Chom, the hotel’s traditional Thai restaurant.
COURTYARD BY MARRIOTT SOUTH PATTAYA
CHIANG RAI
THAWAN TRIBUTE At the end of 2014, Thailand’s most revered artist of the modern era, Thawan Duchanee, died. In delebration of his life and work, the Chiang Rai art community where he took up residency, Art Bridge Chiang Rai, is to host The 3rd Art Bridge Chiang Rai Art Exhibition—Tribute to Thawan Duchanee. As well as a selection of Duchanee’s work, the exhibition also includes hundreds of other art pieces from more than 250 artists. Open daily from 10am-7pm at Art Bridge Chiang Rai (551 Moo 1, Phaholyothin Road, Ban Du, 053166-623, 088-418-5431, www.artbridgechiangrai.org) through Apr 30. TONGSAI BAY
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SAMUI
SUNSET STRIP Mövenpick (www.moevenpick-hotels.com) recently unveiled its third property in Thailand, Mövenpick Resort Laem Yai Beach Samui. Located on one of the island’s most beautiful Northwestern beaches, the property consists of 50 rooms, including a few pool villas, as well as the signature Chaba spa, which offers both Thai and international treatments. You can book a superior room before Feb 28 for B4,860 with the Winter Dream deal, valid for stays until Mar 31. Those who book directly through the hotel’s website will also receive a US$20 (B640) voucher to spend at the hotel’s restaurant. The Mövenpick group has plenty more plans for Thailand too. For news about its new Pattaya condo development, see Property, page 35.
MÖVENPICK
OZO PATTAYA
PATTAYA
OH SO BEACH Situated just a stone’s throw away from Pattaya’s famous night spots, OZO Pattaya (038-103-777, www.ozohotels.com/ pattaya) is a recently opened 170-room hotel comprising a rooftop all-day dining restaurant, complete with swimming pool and spa. MÖVENPICK
RACES
ON THE TRAIL This year looks like a big one for runningrelated traveling. Firstly, Koh Chang will hold the Ultra & Trail Unseen Koh Chang 2015 on Feb 28. The event ranges from a 10km fun run to a 66km super marathon for veteran runners. Fees are B850-2,100 and you can register online at tinyurl.com/ lh2hskt before Feb 19. For more information, call 089-749-1949. Heading north to Chiang Mai, the Thai Ultra Race is a more herculean affair, covering 140km of Huey Tueng Tao Park (Mae Rim district) on Feb 18-20. Fees are B3,900 for Thai residents and B6,000 for foreigners. Get all the info from www.thai-ultrarace.com.
ULTRA & TRAIL
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DESTINATION
SAVORING SAMUI
Our favorite spots to eat and drink on the Gulf of Siam’s most sophisticated island.
H BISTRO
KHAO HOM The owner of Khao Hom’s family has lived on Samui for generations, and the restaurant still turns out crowd-winning homespun recipes like moo kua kapi (stir-fried pork with shrimp paste) and pak liang (stirfried local leaves with egg). It’s located right by the airport. SILAVADEE
SUN MOON STAR
EAT
H BISTRO
This dramatic spot at Silavadee Resort serves up international food in three distinct settings: Sun offers panoramic deck-side views; Moon is an all-day international dining restaurant; while Star is a romantic rooftop bar, complete with sunken tables in a swimming pool.
Headed by Canadian executive chef Stephen Jean Dion, a former private chef to the King of Jordan, Hansar Samui’s flagship restaurant serves French-Mediterranean cuisine using top-quality ingredients flown in from all over the world, including French oysters and Hokkaido scallops. The restaurant sits on the tranquil Bophut Beach and has an expansive terrace with tables overlooking the Gulf of Thailand. Hansar Samui, 101/28 Moo 1, Bophut Beach, Koh Samui District, 077-245-511. Open daily 11am-4pm, 6:3010pm. www.hansarsamui.com/h-bistro
KOH Perched on top of the hill at Four Seasons resort, Koh is headed by a Spanish executive chef, Alex Gares, who previously worked at Michelin-star restaurants including el Bulli and Lasarte in Catalonia. Inspired by Southern Thai flavors, Gares serves top-quality items which are sourced as locally as possible. 219 Moo 5, Angthong, 077-243-000. Open daily 6:3011am, noon-4pm and 6-10pm. The bar closes at midnight. www.fourseasons.com/kohsamui
34/35 Moo 4, Bophut, 08-7413-4084, 08-97280376. Open daily 10am-9pm
Silavadee Resort, 208/66 Moo 4, Maret, 077-960555. Open daily 6am-11pm. www.silavadeeresort.com
NAMU KOH
THE LARDER This little restaurant does some of the best international comfort food you’ll find on Koh Samui outside of a hotel. The menu covers various hearty classics, from Angus beef burgers and five-bean burritos to flamegrilled wagyu rump steak and confit pork belly. The dining room looks like somewhere you’d find in Bangkok, with lots of naturally treated wood and polished concrete. 9/144 Moo 2, Chaweng, 077-601-259. Open Mon-Sat noon-10pm. www.thelardersamui.com
The stylish flagship restaurant at W Retreat is clearly one of Koh Samui’s chicest dining spots. Under the control of Korean chef Sin Keun Choi, the venue looks to reinvent classic Japanese recipes through a blend of Asian and Western flavors. The results are highly creative, with artistically presented dishes like hamachi sashimi with leek and Mexican chili mint dressing, and Maine lobster, stir-fried udon noodles and chili. W Retreat Koh Samui, 4 Bontji Moo 4, Bophut, 077-915-999. Open Mon-Thu 6-11pm, last order at 10:30pm, Fri-Sun, noon-4pm. www.wretreatkohsamui.com
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WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM
PLAY
9 GEMS
NIKKI BEACH
Hidden high on a hilltop overlooking Pru Chaweng Lagoon, 9 Gems combines a lounge ambiance with stiff drinks and slightly pop-art decor. The menu offers fusion food, tapas, desserts and cocktails. Sit yourself by the pool, order a glass (or bottle) and enjoy the sunset.
The sister-venue of celeb-hangouts in Las Vegas, Miami and St. Tropez, this beach club offers signature beach-side teepees and a free-form pool around which to kick back with a drink. The highlight of the week is the Amazing Sunday Brunch, which features over 40 dishes. You can also rent a bungalow for added privacy at B9,600 per night.
141/190 Moo 6, Bophut, 077-256-125. Tue-Thu 4pmmidnigh Fri-Sun 4pm-2am. www.9gemssamui.com
DRINK GALLERY This happening bar belongs to the island’s hip design hotel The Library and is suitably decked out in pop art, chandeliers and rawwood furniture. The drinks list focuses on wine and cocktails, while the music is soft chill-out tunes. It’s also a nice warm-up spot if you want to explore the nearby Soi Green Mango, the center of Samui’s nighlife. The Library, 14/1 Moo 2, Chaweng Beach, Bophut, 077-422-767/8. Open daily 1pm-1am. www.thelibrary.co.th
Lipa Noi Beach, 077-914-500. Open daily 11am11pm. www.nikkibeach.com/kohsamui
BEACH REPUBLIC Elegant and sexy with a red-hot décor, this beach club boasts two infinity pools, regular DJs and live performances. The Ultimate Sunday Brunch Club features an impressive international buffet. Entry into the club is B1,000 per day (which is transferred into food and beverage credits).
DRINK GALLERY
Lamai Beach, 077-458-100. Open daily 10:30am11pm. www.beachrepublic.com NIKKI BEACH
AIR BAR Air Bar promises one of the most stunning sunset views on Samui, overlooking the famous Five Islands off the west coast. But that’s not the only reason you should visit—the cocktails are another potent highlight. InterContinental Samui Baan Taling Ngam Resort, 295 Moo 3, Taling Ngam Beach, 077-429100. Open daily 5-11pm. www.samui.intercontinental.com
CHA CHA MOON This sexy beach club on nightlife central Chaweng Beach offers daybeds on the beach, a rustic-meets-tropical vibe, and a playlist that makes a welcome change from elsewhere on the island. Chaweng Beach, Bophut, 089-651-2777. Open daily 2pm-2am. www.fb.com/chachamoonbeachclub
CHA CHA MOON
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whereExploring FEBRUARY 2015 | BANGKOK
OLD TOWN The Rattanakosin area, commonly considered Old Bangkok, starts at Hua Lamphong train station and encompasses some of the city’s most revered cultural landmarks. But beyond the Grand Palace and Wat Pho, there are also some excellent restaurants and beautiful riverside bars.
PHRA SUMEN FORT
NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES 20 OLD TOWN
22 UPPER SILOM
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LOOK OUT FOR A COPY OF
Available at leading hotels throughout Thailand.
Thailand
The Essential Annual Guide to the Kingdom. For more information please contact
maketing@asia-city.co.th or call 02-624-9645
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EXPLORING
OLD TOWN Y SPOTLIGHT
Krua Apsorn
SEVEN SPOONS This restaurant on the edge of Chinatown is immensely popular thanks to its commitment to local and organic ingredients. The welcoming dining room features a 1920s-30s feel alongside industrial touches like bare bricks and concrete. The menu focuses on Mediterranean cuisine and also includes wood-fired pizzas and brunch-style offerings for those who can make the Tue-Sat lunch service. Don’t leave before trying the fabulous cocktails, either.
Despite the slightly grubby ambience and the out-of-the-way location, the dishes here are special, in part because they’re made the “old-fashioned” way and have been fine-tuned over decades. The awesome mussels fried pad cha style, with basil, yellow chili, krachai (wild ginger) and green peppercorns are so plump and sweet that chefs from other restaurants have inquired about their source. 503-505 Samsen Rd., 02-6688788. Open Mon-Sat 10:30am7:30pm. www.kruaapsorn.com
22 Chakkrapatipong Rd., 02-629-9214. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-1am; Tue-Sat 11am-3pm. BTS Ratchathewi. sevenspoonsbkk.wordpress.com
MORNING Start your walking tour from Prachan Pier (Tha Prachan in Thai) with a visit to 1 Tha Prachan and Amulet Market (open daily 7am-5pm), where ancient Buddha images, amulets and talismans are displayed along the footpath and in small lanes. Local advice is recommended if you plan on taking home any good-luck souvenirs. Nearby, you’ll find the gorgeous, if run-down, 2 National Museum (4 Na Phra Tha Rd., 02-2241333), which houses some of the most impressive art and antiques in the country. In addition to historic pieces from the Dvaravati Srivijaya to Sukhothai and
Buddha image; the Middle Court, which contains the Dusit Maha Prasat and Chakri Maha Prasat buildings; and the Inner Court, former residence of the royal consorts. Be sure to get there early before the day is too hot. Beware, touts will tell you the palace is closed for a national holiday. Ignore them! On the same grounds, you’ll also find the 4 Queen GRAND PALACE
Ayutthaya periods, the museum features regional art like Indian Gandhara, Chinese weapons, and ancient ceramics and musical instruments. At the other end of Sanam Luang is the mostvisited landmark in Thailand, 3 Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew (open daily 8:30am-4:30pm. Entry B350). Construction on the royal residence of the first king of the current Chakri Dynasty began in 1762, and the complex is split into three zones: the Outer Court, where you’ll find Wat Phra Kaew and the Emerald Buddha, Thailand’s most sacred
NATIONAL MUSEUM
into a key export and an icon of Thailand. Highlights include the queen’s personal dresses and ornate costumes by leading international designers.
AFTERNOON Behind the Grand Palace, on the bank of the Chao Phraya River, is the two-yearold 5 Nagaraphirom Park. What was once a row of shop-houses and several other old buildings is now a breathable green space with views of the Grand Palace. Relax among trees and lotus ponds and enjoy a great view of the Temple of Dawn before you continue on your walk. Next, pay your respects to the
QUEEN SIRIKIT MUSEUM OF TEXTILES
Sirikit Museum of Textiles (Na Phra Lan Rd., Phra Borom Maha Ratchawang, 02-255-9430), which tells the story of how HM Queen Sirikit has helped turn Thai silk from a simple local handicraft
WAT PHO
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EXPLORING
OLD TOWN 43-meter-long reclining Buddha at 6 Wat Pho (open daily 8am-5pm), whose three-meter-tall feet are inlaid with mother of pearl displaying 108 Buddhist symbols. Wat Pho is also the birthplace of traditional Thai massage, and home to the country’s most famous massage school. In a beautiful colonial-style building nearby, 7 Museum Siam (4 Sanam Chai Rd., 02-225-2777. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm) is one of Bangkok’s best museums, portraying the history of Thailand through multimedia installations and interactive exhibitions. The venue also hosts an interesting lineup of rotating exhibitions.
PHRA ATHIT HOTSPOTS Some of the Old Town’s best venues line this charming riverside road.
!3 Escapade The specialty here is Angus beef burgers that regularly rank among Bangkok’s best. Double your intake with a Quarter Cow (two beef patties, two slices of cheddar cheese with truffle sauce) and be sure to try the decadent smoothie cocktails.
SHEEPSHANK
112 Phra Athit Rd., 081-406-3773. Open Tue-Sun noon-midnight
!4 Sheepshank This restaurant is designed to resemble a sophisticated boat house where you can sit back and enjoy views of the river and Rama VIII Bridge while eating Spanish dishes like seafood paella with saffron. 47 Phra Athit Rd., 02-629-5165. www.sheepshankpublichouse.com
!5 Pipit Banglamphu Thanks to the efforts of the Banglamphu community, plans to demolish Bangkok’s first printing school, which dates back to 1924, were derailed, and the building recently reopened as the Pipit Banglamphu Museum. Registered a place of national importance by the Fine Art Department of Thailand, the museum focuses on the culture of Bangkok’s Rattanakosin Island area, as well as the printing school’s history.
MUSEUM SIAM
Next to Phra Sumen Fort, Phra Athit Rd., 02-629-1850. Entry B100. Closed Mondays. www.fb.com/pipitbanglamphu
EVENING
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1 Tha Prachan and Amulet Market 2 National Museum 3 Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew 4 Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles 5 Nagaraphirom Park 6 Wat Pho 7 Museum Siam 8 Sala Rattanakosin 9 Wat Arun !0 The Deck !1 Pak Klong Talad !2 Khao San Road !3 Escapade !4 Sheepshank !5 Pipit Banglamphu
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After exploring Thailand’s heritage, take a break at 8 Sala Rattanakosin (39 Soi Ta Tien, Maharat Rd., 02-622-1388) and enjoy Thai food with great views of the 9 Temple of Dawn (Wat Arun). This stylish riverside venue boasts a small number of guestrooms but half of the building is dedicated to wining and dining. There’s also a rooftop bar—the perfect place for sipping cocktails. If you’re in the mood for more drinks, head to !0 The Deck (Arun Residence, 36-38 Maharaj Rd.), a charming outdoor venue just a short walk from Sala Rattanakosin. Set in a fiveroom boutique hotel, The Deck offers a delightful atmosphere in which to enjoy another drink or two, and also has a sophisticated Thai food menu. Finish your Old Town tour with a night visit to !1 Pak Klong Talad (open 24 hours), Bangkok’s largest flower market. Flowers from not only Thailand but around the world arrive here each day to be distributed to hotels, restaurants and small retailers. You’ll find everything from local jasmine to imported red roses. Fresh batches arrive after midnight, which is when you’ll get to experience the busiest trading atmosphere. If you’ve still got some energy left, go mingle with backpackers from all over the world on the notorious !2 Khao San Road. Our top addresses there: Bombay Blues, Hippie de Bar and Fabulous Bar & Dessert Café.
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GETTING THERE PAK KLONG TALAD
It’s not easy to get to the old town as there is no the sky train or MRT coverage, and a car journey can take up to an hour due to heavy traffic. The most convenient route is perhaps to take the sky train to BTS Saphan Taksin and catch a boat from Sathorn Pier to Pra Athit Pier.
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EXPLORING
UPPER SILOM Y SPOTLIGHT
!7 Bangkok
Art Galleria
Head to floors 4 and 5 of Bangkok’s jewelry trading hub, the Jewelry Trade Center, for four of the city’s best galleries. 02-630-0979, 919/1 Silom Soi 19.
Tang Contemporary Art With its two branches in China, Tang is Bangkok’s art scene top dog. Through Oct 4, the gallery is showing “The World III in The Third World”. 02-630-1114, open Tue-Sat 11am7pm
NEW
VOGUE LOUNGE
CVN
This cocktail bar has brought onboard high-profile chef, Vincent Thierry, formerly of the twoMichelin-star Caprice in Hong Kong, to create a menu of incredibly elegant (and equally delicious) small plates such as wagyu sirloin with black truffle potato and bone marrow butter. The 1920s-inspired bar features a small indoor area dominated by plum leather, bronze and marble, while outside is a beautiful air-conditioned terrace.
CVN is more of an art dealer, so no rotating exhibitions here. Bring a few million baht for a Thawan Duchanee, but prices start from much lower than that. 02-630-2251, open Mon-Sat 11am7pm
!4 6/F, Mahanakhon Cube, Narathiwas Rd., 02-001-0697. BTS Chong Nonsi
S
ilom Road starts at Lumpini Park and stops just one block short of the Chao Phraya River. The road’s first half is notorious for Soi Patong, a collection of go-go bars and fake watch stalls. But the bottom half has recently gone through a revival, with a host of edgy bars and restaurants joining the area’s longstanding galleries.
GALLERIES AND ATTRACTIONS One of Silom’s most colorful landmarks, 1 Mahamariamman Temple (Wat Khaek) (between Pan Rd. and Soi 17, 02-238-4007) feels more like it belongs in India than downtown Bangkok. Built during the 19th century by Tamil immigrants, it is one of the main non-Buddhist places of worship in the capital. The area is also bustling with galleries. Just around the corner, Manit Sriwanichpoom’s 2 Kathmandu Photo Gallery (87 Pan Rd., 02-2346700) is Bangkok’s preeminent photography gallery. Its exhibitions focus on social issues, urbanisation and the country’s photographic heritage—well worth a regular visit. Nearby, 3 H Gallery (201 Sathorn Nua Soi 12, 085-
021-5508) is set in a beautiful ,late19th century, wooden building where Brian Curtin curates exhibitions by emerging contemporary Asian artists.
NIGHTLIFE The Bangkok venue of Asia’s mostrecognized high-end nightlife brand, 4 Ku De Ta (39 & 40/F, Sathorn Square Complex, 02-108-2000), con-
KU DE TA
Number1 Gallery Young and fresh, with a selection of exciting emerging artists, this gallery’s price tags in the tens of thousands remain reasonable. MAGGIE CHOO’S
sists of several restaurants, bars and clubs tied together by a slick, exclusive feel. The main restaurant, Signature, offers contemporary Asian—particularly Japanese—cuisine, while Club Lounge and Soundgarden host DJs and live music. Back on Silom Road, 5 Maggie Choo’s (underground/F, Hotel Novotel Bangkok Fenix Silom, 02-6356055) evokes colonial outposts, decadent opium dens, steamy exoticism (and steaming noodles on your way in) and gentlemen’s clubs. You can usually expect some kind of entertainment: a band, a DJ accompanied by a
02-630-2523, open Mon-Sat 11am7pm
Thavibu Gallery Representing big names like Vasan Sithiket and Navin Rawanchaikul, Thavibu is another highly-regarded gallery. 02-266-5454, open MonSat 11am-7pm
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the most Michelin stars in the world.. EXPLORING
UPPER SILOM percussionist and beautiful ladies in cheongsam dresses. For quality cocktails, 6 U.N.C.L.E. (2/F, Lady Brett, 149 Sathorn Soi 12, 02-635-0406) is a wonderfully moody lounge with a stellar drinks list. An elegant hostess presides over it all, while a single barman in a classic vest stands behind the bar.
cheese focaccia sandwiches. The coffee is pretty special, too. For more upscale dining, 9 Le Du (399/3 Silom Soi 7, 092-919-9969) is a top choice: an inventive restaurant powered by a young Thai chef. Nextdoor, !6 Namsaah Bottling Trust offers whimsical takes on Asian comfort food, and strong cocktails, in a charming 100-year-old house. Another beautiful house can be found at !0Blue Elephant (233 Sathorn Rd., 02-673-9353), which serves authentic royal Thai cusine. The area is also home to plenty of upscale European options, among them the elegant 47th floor !1 Scarlett Wine Bar & Restaurant (37/F, Pullman Bangkok Hotel G, 02-238-1991) and !2 Opus (64 Pan Rd., 02-637-9899), where a Tuscan chef prepares brilliant seafood dishes. Less-formal restaurants include the wonderfully idiosyncratic !3 Foo Mui Kee (10-12 Prachum Rd., 02-2346648), an 80-year-old shop-house restaurant serving Western dishes with a distinctly Chinese influence, as a t Oso branch tof tha!4 Dean & Deluca (G/F, The Pu Cube, Mahanakhon, 02-234-1434). The Cube is also home to two major new openings: Vogue Lounge (see page 19) and L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon (02-001-0698) by the chef with
DINING In the same building as U.N.C.L.E, 7 Lady Brett (149 Sathorn Soi 12, 02-635-0405) has a cozy wood-andtiled vibe inspired by 20th-century taverns, and a menu of simple dishes: fire-roasted mustard chicken, hanger steak, braised lamb shank. The same people also own 8 Rocket (149 Sathorn Tai Soi 12, 02-635-0404), a café that keeps things simple with omelets, homemade granola and salami and
ROCKET
661 SILOM
!5 Baan
Silom
Come nightfall, Baan Silom is full of dining options. For a sit-down meal, the swanky steakhouse 661 Silom (02-266-8661), the baby of the team behind Le Beaulieu, has a very urban-luxury vibe, while Lebanese mainstay Nadimos (02-266-9081) and new Turkish joint Ottoman (02-635-3688) provide more exotic fare. If you want Thai food, Taling Pling (02-236-4829/30) consistently ranks among locals’ favorite restaurant groups.
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1 Mahamariamman Temple (Wat Khaek) 2 Kathmandu Photo Gallery 3 H Gallery 4 Ku De Ta 5 Maggie Choo’s 6 U.N.C.L.E. 7 Lady Brett 8 Rocket 9 Le Du !0 Blue Elephant
!1 Scarlett Wine Bar & Restaurant !2 Opus !3 Foo Mui Kee !4 Mahanakhon - Dean & Deluca - Vogue Lounge - L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon !5 Baan Silom !6 Namsaah Bottling Trust !7 Silom Galleria
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ThewhereGuide FEBRUARY 2015 | BANGKOK
NEW
22 KITCHEN & BAR
One of the hottest new kitchens in town is up on the 22nd floor of Silom’s Dusit Thani hotel. What was once among Bangkok’s best French fine dining institutions has been transformed by California-born chef Nikolas Ramirez into a contemporary Nikkei (Peruvian-Japanese fusion) restaurant, bringing with it Pacific Rim flavors like scallop carpaccio with corn and avocado salsa and grilled Maine lobster with ramen gnocchi. The signature drinks also fit the theme well, like the rum-based Catch 22. Dusit Thani, 946 Silom Rd., 02-200-9000. Open daily 4pm-midnight
BANGKOK’S BEST VENUES 25 DINING 28 NIGHTLIFE
32 HEALTH + WELLNESS 33 SHOPS + SERVICES
34 ART + ATTRACTIONS 35 PROPERTY
36 NAVIGATE
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GUIDE
DINING NEW
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This down-to-earth seafood restaurant looks like a vintage farmhouse, with an atmosphere akin to a relaxed family gathering. Cracks in the roughly rendered walls expose rugged brickwork, while wooden furniture and window frames are left unpolished. The authentic, Western-style dishes are as rustic as the décor, but made using quality imported ingredients like Japanese black cod and Irish Majestic oysters. All this has made it a popular neighborhood favorite. Chapter 31, 24/1 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-262-0762. Open daily 6pm-midnight
Y SPOTLIGHT
Hot Spots THAI BISTROS WITH GOOD DRINKS
1
HOT ROD
From the same designer behind the Dickensian-themed Iron Fairies (nearby, on Thonglor) and the 1930s Shanghai-inspired Maggie Choo’s (on Silom Rd.), this small bar and restaurant dishes out a sophisticated menu of creative or rare Thai dishes (created by the head chef from Smith) and elaborate cocktails. Join the dozen happy few who can fit at its circular bar and nibble on Northern-style terrine while sipping on a mix of rum and jackfruit. Room A103, G/F, Park Lane, Sukhumvit Soi 63, 02-7142575. BTS Ekkamai. Open daily 6pm-midnight
2
3
SOMTUM DER
Yards from the bustle of Silom Rd., the restaurant brings typical street food into a modern shop-house setting. The menu focuses on somtam (a spicy Thai papaya salad) and other classic Northeastern dishes. Not as sweet as Bangkokians usually like their somtam, the flavors here are particularly authentic. Do try the pork skewers marinated in coconut milk and the wonderful deep-fried minced pork balls. Their martinis are also a highlight.
5/5 Sala Daeng Rd., 02-632-4499. MRT Silom. Open daily 11am-10:30pm
TUBA
This spacious two-story restaurant triples as a gallery, bar and retro furniture shop. Come here for Thai dishes and Western fare whipped up to suit the local palate, admire the works of aspiring artists, wind down with early-evening cocktails (twofor-one ends at 8pm) or head upstairs for a late-night karaoke session. It might not be fine dining, but the atmosphere is spot-on. 34/11-12 Ekamai Soi 21, 02-711-5500. Open daily noon-2am
SOMTUM DER
MSC Thai Culinary School Unlike other Thai cooking schools around town, this new venture in partnership with one of Bangkok’s leading chefs, Chumpol Jangprai of Siam Wisdom, is dedicated to one-year professional culinary courses in Thai cuisine. But members of the public are welcome to join in too, with half-day cooking classes that teach you how to make a four-course menu of traditional Thai dishes, followed by lunch with the instructor. 457/1-6 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-185-1414. www.msccookingschool.com
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Y
TASTEOFTHECITY DINING GUIDE
Recent Openings
YOICHI NIKKA
This high-end addition to the great array of Japanese bars around Sukhumvit Soi 39 specializes in the very best Japanese whiskey, served in a solemnly lit, moody environment.
6/11 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-662-4270. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-2am
ATELIER DE JOËL ROBUCHON
The Bangkok debut from the chef with 28 Michelin stars across 20 restaurants. Reservations essential. 5/F, Mahanakhon Cube, Narathiwas Rd., 02-001-0698. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm. BTS Chong Nonsi
PAINTBAR BANGKOK
The bar that lets you sip your drinks and enjoy painting on a real canvas.
46/4 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 081-612-6105. Open Tue-Sat 2:30-11:30pm; Sun 10:30am-6:30pm
22 KITCHEN & BAR
Advertise your business with us starting from B5,000
Email sales@asia-city.co.th or call 026249601
Dusit Thani’s new 22/F restaurant is nothing like the refined French eatery it replaces—think Pacific coastal cuisine.
22/F, Dusit Thani Hotel, Rd., 946 Silom Rd., 02-200-9000. Open daily 4pm-midnight 26 W H E R E T H A I L AND I F EBRUA RY 2 0 1 5
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GUIDE
DINING
3
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KRAM
Kram does simple Thai comfort food in a house filled with plants, reclaimed wood and wooden furniture. The adorable outdoor area is filled with bean bags, picnic-style seating, hanging light bulbs and movies projecting onto the wall. The kitchen serves up classic Thai dishes including gaeng kua poo bai chaploo (curry with crabmeat and wild betel leaf), pla rak gluay pad prik khing (stir-fried horseface loach with chili paste) and woonsen dork kajorn pad khai (stir-fried glass noodles with cowslip creeper). 113 Sukhumvit Soi 39 (Sukhumvit), 02-258-8170. Open Tue-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-10pm; SatSun 11am-11pm
STREET FOOD CENTRAL: SUKHUMVIT SOI 38
KRAM
4
SOUL FOOD MAHANAKORN
The restaurant dishes out very potent (double pours, actually) original signature cocktails like the Bun Bang Fai (a mix of tequila, lime, chilli, almond syrup and egg white) as well as a brief menu of perfectly executed Thai regional dishes like gaeng hang lay, Burmese prok belly curry and pad krapao made with Australian slamb. This winning combo has a heady, infectious effect on hip, beautiful people, being packed almost every night of the week.
Conveniently located right next to BTS Thong Lo, Sukhumvit Soi 38 is a lively hub of good street food featuring numerous stalls specializing in Thai and Thai-Chinese specialties. Though many stalls don’t have name signs, they do offer menus in English with food pictures. The operation starts from about 5pm and runs through the early morning hours so you can drop by before or after your night out in Sukhumvit. Highlights include the ba mee puu moo-daeng (yellow noodles with crab and roast pork, B40-B50), kao man kai (rice with steamed chicken or fried chicken, B50-60), kuay tiew kua kai (stir-fried chicken noodles, B40-50), and pork entrails soup with vegetables and seafood (B70). There are also many shop-house-style restaurants along the road. Look out for the one specializing in khao soi (chicken or pork noodles in coconut milk curry, B50), identified by the Chinese doughnut seller out front. There are quite a few dessert stalls too, selling everything from ice cream to the classic Thai dessert kao niew ma muang (sticky rice with sweet mango, B60-80), which can be found at the beginning of the street.
56/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 085-9042691, 02-714-7708. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 5:30pm-midnight
PIZZA PERFECT Our favorite spots for pizza
PEPPINA
PALA PIZZA ROMANA Room #1, MRT Sukhumvit Station, Asoke, 02-2591228-9. Open Mon-Sat 10am-midnight; Sun 11am-midnight. BTS Asoke/MRT Sukhumvit PEPPINA 27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02119-7677. Open Tue-Sun 6:30-11pm SFIZIO 44/4 Sukhumvit Soi 21 (Asoke), 02-262-0405. MRT Sukhumvit. Open Mon-Fri 11:30am-4pm; Mon-Sat 6-11pm. BTS Asoke/MRT Sukhumvit
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NIGHTLIFE HYDE & SEEK PEEK-A-BOO NEW
Inspired by tree houses, this bar-restaurant hybrid offers a sophisticated trip down memory lane. A local former champion of the Diageo Reserve World Class cocktail competition designed the drinks list, and it shows. The menu is tight and original, from the fruity BKK Cobbler to the old-fashioned-style Whiskey Rebellion. Be sure to order the tasty bar snacks, too, like wagyu beef and stilton Scotch eggs. 1/F, Groove, CentralWorld, Rama 1 Rd., 02-646- 1099. Siam. Open daily 11-12:30am. BTS Siam / Chid Lom
Hot Spots JAZZ BARS
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HAPPY HOURS Bars to start boozing earlier
BAMBOO BAR
Opened back in 1953, this hotel bar is one of the city’s oldest live jazz institutions. Singers take the mic at 9pm daily, accompanied by music from a baby grand and surrounded by framed portraits of jazz legends who’ve passed through over the years. What’s more, the bar also does some of the best cocktails in town, whether the Rose Jam Tea Time with its base of tea-infused gin, or the six-month bottle-aged negroni. Oriental Hotel, 48 Oriental Ave., 02-659-9000. BTS Saphan Taksin. Open Sun-Thu 5pm-1am; FriSat 5pm-2am
SAXOPHONE
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SAXOPHONE
This old favorite is best known for its jazzy offerings led by Koh Mr. Saxman. However, a solid dose of reggae can be heard here too. Just swing by on Fri and stick around long (and late) enough for Thailand’s godfathers of reggae, T-Bone, to take to the stage (every Fri night, from midnight-1:30am). 3/8 Phaya Thai Rd., 02-245-3592. BTS Victory Monument. Open daily 6pm-2am . BAMBOO BAR
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BROWN SUGAR
This place ranks as one of Bangkok’s best jazz bars for a reason. The Phra Sumen institution offers classic Western comfort food and cocktails, plus live performances by quality local jazz bands dominated by finalists of The Voice Thailand like Tissue Paper and Attention Please. Performances run from 8:30pm from Tue-Sun. 469 Phra Sumen Rd., 08-1805-7759. Open daily 5pm-1am
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THE LIVING ROOM BANGKOK
With regular international guests of the highest caliber, this hotel bar is one of the most serious jazz institutions in town. Till Feb 14, in-house band The Randy Cannon Group is joined by Pucci Amanda Jhones, who has performed at Birdland, Blue Note, and Lenox Lounge in her native New York. There’s also a free-flow drinks deal for B1,200 from 8pm-midnight. Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, Sukhumvit Rd., 02649-8353. MRT 99 Sukhumvit. Open daily 9ammidnight
HEMINGWAY’S
Hemingway’s From 12pm-8pm, Sat-Sun, all house spirits are just B100. Come between 4-6pm on Tue for half price on all small plates. Sukhumvit Soi 14, 02-653-3900. Open daily 11:30-am-1am. BTS Asok
Wine Bibber Daily buy-one-get-one free on beer and cocktails from 5-9pm. Ekkamai Soi 2, 02-714-0709. Open daily 5pm2am. BTS Ekkamai.
Ku De Ta Every day, two hours’ free-flow Asahi draught beer at B480, available for both lunch and dinner. 39/F, Sathorn Square Complex, 98 North Sathorn Rd., 02-108-2000. Open Mon-Fri 11am-3pm, 5pm-10:30pm; Sat 5pm-10:30pm
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NIGHTLIFE
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LATE NIGHTS FOR ALL Whatever you’re into, Bangkok has a clubbing experience to suit you.
SMALL
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SMALLS
This laid-back, late-night cocktail lounge is set in a corner-shop-house and split over three levels including a roof terrace with really great views. The eclectic crowd ranges from older guests who come to nurse a drink while listening to live jazz, to young groups of friends always keen to check out the most buzzed about places in town. The bar specializes in absinthe, but there are some great cocktails, too. 186/3 Suanphlu Soi 1, 095-585-1398. Open WedSun 7:30pm-2am; Mon 7:30pm-2am
DJ Station
Do Not Disturb
Glow
The grand dame of gay clubbing just never seems to get old. Packed to the point of making dancing near impossible on weekends, DJ Station has come to define Thailand’s gay nightlife for many visitors. The place is three stories tall. Most of the dancing takes place on the ground, with some guys going shirtless on stage. On the second floor, things are noticeably more cruise-y—and boozy. As for the décor, the dim lighting hides a pretty rundown and barebones setup. Silom Soi 2. BTS Sala Daeng. Open daily 10pm-2am
Located behind the long-standing Nunglen Bar, this club specializes in EDM from local DJs as well as live bands. The motel-themed decor begins with ten fake hotel doors to keep visitors guessing as to the real entrance, leading to an interior divided into four different subsections. The bar looks pricey at first but bottles do come with free-flow mixers. Upstairs is a yakiniku bar named Kukuuk (Open 6pm-1am) and an outdoor balcony. Behind Nunglen and Escobar, Ekamai Soi 7, 094-446-6269. Open Tue-Sun 8pm-2am
An after-hours favorite, Glow packs in locals, expats and tourists thanks to very late (or should that be early?) opening hours and one of the most consistent electronic music lineups in town. The focus is usually on drum n’ bass, techno and house, played by a wide range of Bangkokbased and visiting DJs. The place never really gets going until 11pm at the earliest. 96/4-5 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02261-3007, 02-261-4446. MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 6pm-1am
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NEW
Coyote
Bangkok’s newest Mexican restaurant-slashbar is as much about partying as it is dining. And they have some pretty special happy hours, too. From 4-7pm and 10pm-midnight, you can enjoy buy-one-get-one-free on all margaritas (whether by glass or pitcher) as well as selected beers (Carlsberg, Singha, Tiger and San Miguel Light). Signature dishes include Coyote nachos, shrimp quesadilla and beef burritos. Room 29/1, The Prime 11, Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-651-3313. Open daily noon-2am
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GUIDE TO
SUKHUMVIT 11 CLUB C
NIGHTCLUB A LEVELS CLUB & LOUNGE 08 2308 3246 www.levelsclub.com www.facebook.com/levelsclub
The popular nightlife venue located in the heart of Bangkok’s party scene, Levels Club & Lounge, promises an unforgettable partying experience. It offers a world-class audio-visual environment, a sizeable dance floor and features Bangkok’s hottest DJs. There are special weekly promotions like the Thursday’s TOO SEXY Ladies Night, where girls get three free drinks before midnight. Open daily 9pm till late. Check their website for a full line-up and promotions.
VAULT SPEAKEASY CLUB
HIP-HOP CLUB B
Asoke Rd.
Petchaburi Soi 19
V CLUB 082 308 3246 www.facebook.com/VClubBangkok
Soi 15
Probably the most cutting edge dance music venue on Soi 11, the newly reopened V Club is located inside Levels Club & Lounge. The venue has been totally revamped with all new décor, a state of the art “Pyramid” DJ booth and a brand new sound & lighting system that will keep party goers on their feet all night long. It features world-class local and international DJs spinning the freshest house sounds from Ibiza to Miami. V Club, has hosted some of the hottest names in the business such as D. Ramirez, M.A.N.D.Y., James Zabiela, Technasia, Richard Durand, Leeroy Thornhill (The Prodigy), Ramon Tapia and Riva Starr. Experience the all new V Club Wednesday thru Saturday from 10pm till late.
Klong Saen Saep
The new, elegantly designed nightclub and lounge is inspired by speakeasies, or illegal drinking spots, and the glamorous art deco architecture of 1920s banks. With its retromodern interior and opulent leather sofas, The Vault’s custom crafted bar serves up sophisticatedly refined cocktails. Music ranges from live jazz (Wed and Sun) to soul and funk. Many of the classic favorites from pre-1980s will be performed by the charismatic and powerful vocalist Donyale Renee. Upfront house, deep sexy tech house and nu-disco is delivered by resident DJ Fred Jungo for the after 12 crowd. Open daily from 9pm-2am.
NIGHTCLUB A
Petchaburi Rd.
082-308-3246 WWW.VAULT-BANGKOK.COM www.facebook.com/The-VaultSpeakeasy-Club
Soi 13 C
Soi 11
A
D
B
Soi 9 Soi 7/1
SUGAR CLUB 08 2308 3246 www.facebook.com/SugarClubBangkok
The brand new nightlife venue has been shaking up Soi 11 since its grand opening at the end of last year. As Bangkok’s one and only real hip-hop club, Sugar features outstanding local and international DJs spinning the hottest hip-hop tunes 7 days a week. Sugar features state of the art lighting and sound, tons of super sexy coyotes and a variety of the best VIP tables in Bangkok. It’s open to a large segment of party people that enjoy high quality entertainment but at great value, with B100 drinks, an open bar for only B500 and B999 bottles before midnight.
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Soi 7 PUB F
Soi 5 THE KIWI 02 653 3144 thekiwibangkok.com/en www.facebook.com/TheKIWIBangkok
The Kiwi on Soi 8 is a long-time favorite with expats and visitors thanks to its welcoming pub atmosphere, and outdoor terrace - the perfect place to watch live sports. It also has a good reputation for delicious hearty meals from a pub breakfast to classic fish and chips. They also do a “Free BBQ” every Tuesday and a great roast dinner from noon every Sunday. Watch Live sports: NRL, AFL, EPL, F1 and many more.
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GUIDE TO
SUKHUMVIT 11 OUTDOOR TERRACE D
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OUTDOOR LOUNGE C KAZBAR 02 651 3313 www.facebook.com/Kazbarbangkok
New to Soi 11, The Kazbar is an al fresco street-side cold-stone lounge located at the entrance to the Prime 11 building. This “Oasis of 11” boasts a lounge vibe, with a great selection of cold-stone flavors to enjoy, chilled tunes and reasonably priced ice cold beers and specialty cocktails. Open from 6pm till late every day.
BAR & GRILL G
Sukhumvit Asok
Ratch
adap
hisek
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Soi 14
Soi 10 F
Soi 8 Nana
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Soi 6
B
The stylish new margarita bar and Mexican restaurant on Sukhumvit Soi 11 makes one hot addition to Bangkok’s dining scene. It specializes in Southwestern grill and margaritas, offering unique items like imported smoked chipotle chilies, achiote paste with more than 50 hot sauces, and 75 different margaritas including the Black Forest Margarita (tequila, triple sec, blackberries, blueberries and cream) and the Mint Chocolate Margarita (tequila, triple sec, mint chocolate liqueur and lime juice in a chocolate coated glass). The authentic Southwestern dishes include mesquite grilled meats and all-time-favorites like Quesadillas, Coyote Nachos served with shredded grilled chicken and diced chorizo, and Cowboy skewers. Open daily from 12pm-2am.
Rama 4 Rd.
Sukhumvit Rd.
Soi 12
Queen Sirikit National COYOTE MEXICAN BAR & GRILL Convention 02-651-3313 www.coyotebangkok.com Centre www.facebook.com/CoyoteMexican
Q UP 082 308 3246 www.qbarbangkok.com www.facebook.com/QBarBangkok
This well-known fixture on the nightlife scene has been running for over 14 years and was voted Best Bar in Bangkok by readers of leading city living publication BK Magazine. The nightlife institution welcomes interna¬tional DJs from all over the world as well as Bangkok’s cream of the crop. Fresh from a re¬cent renovation, you can now take advantage of special promotions every night of the week including a promotion on Sunday to Thurs¬day, where B500 gets you free entrance and a free bar on standard drinks from 9pm to midnight. Open daily from 9pm till late.
COCKTAIL & TAPAS BAR C
AZURA LOUNGE BAR 08 2308 3246 www.facebook.com/AzuraLoungebarBkk
PUB E THE AUSTRALIAN PUB & BBQ 02 651 0800 www.theaustralianbangkok.com www.facebook.com/TheAussiePub
Situated in the heart of Soi 11, “The Aussie,” as it’s known to locals, is a great spot for sports fans. In fact, they feature no less than 14 flat-screens and two projectors constantly showing live sports from around the world including the AFL and NRL. There’s also live music every day of the week, an impressive pub grub menu that includes specialties like Crocodile Kebabs and a chance watch the world go by on the street-side terrace.
Sukhumvit Soi 11’s newest lounge bar Azura, which was inspired by the laid back style and ‘Azure’ blue seas of the Mediterranean, serves a wide selection of delicious Greek and Spanish tapas in a cool, relaxed outdoor setting. At the bar you’ll find unique and refreshing cocktails designed by expert mixologists, while world-class DJs spin the perfect pre-club soundtrack. Get down there for the Sundowner Cocktail Buffet from 7-9pm. All drinks are B95 daily from 6pm-10pm.
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HEALTH + WELLNESS NEW
THE HIVE SPA
This petite but elegant spa may look European with its tastefully neutral rugs, rollback chairs and Barbara Barry color scheme, but the treatments focus squarely on Thai foot massage and oil-free head-and-shoulder massage. Order tea, juice or freshly ground coffee from the cafĂŠ upstairs and enjoy your pampering session alongside members of the adjoining co-working facility. Afterwards, head up to the rooftop for a light salad or bottle of beer. 1/F, The Hive, 46/9 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-6626062. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm
Hot Spots SPAS IN BEAUTIFUL HOUSES
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THE ORIENTAL SPA
As sophisticated as the hotel, The Oriental Spa offers four specialty suites, ten private rooms and a huge variety of treatments, covering everything from Thai to Hawaiian therapies. Try the 90-min Oriental Signature Treatment, aromatherapy signature massage, (B4,500) or a full detoxifying option, the 2.5-hour Oriental Organic Journey (B7,500). Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, Charoen Krung Rd., 02-659-9000. BTS Saphan Taksin. Open daily 9am-10pm
HEALTH LAND (EKKAMAI)
3 MANDARIN ORIENTAL
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HEALTH LAND (EKKAMAI)
SPA AT FACE
Tucked in a beautiful compound of wooden Thai houses, this spa rolls out massages that utilize old-school principles. The most popular is the Wat Pho Healer, for 180 min (B3,500), named after the famous Thai massage school. It starts with your choice of body scrubs using Thai herbs, and an Ayurvedic massage or herbal compress and oil massage, before focusing on your head, feet, back and shoulders. Afterwards, enjoy a drink at the Face Bar and some food at Hazara Indian restaurant in the same complex.
29 Sukhumvit Soi 38, 02-713-6048. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 9am-7pm
Set in a grand Thai-style building in front of Ekkamai Soi 10, Health Land is considered one of the best spas in Bangkok thanks to its clean facilities, well-trained staff and wallet-friendly prices. A two-hour traditional Thai massage is now priced at B500 while an aromatheraphy body massage is B850 or B6,500 for 10 session coupons (90 min). You can also opt for a one-hour foot massage (B280).
Wat Pho
Famous as both the home of the 46-meterlong reclining Buddha and as a center of traditional massage, it even offers courses to learn for yourself.
96/1 Sukhumvit Soi 65 (Ekkamai), 02-392-2233. Open daily 9am-11pm
SPA AT FACE
Sanamchai Rd., Phra Nakhon. 02-255-4771, Tha Thien Pier. Open daily 8am-6pm. B100. www.watpomassage.com
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BANGKOK
SHOPPING
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YARNNAKARN ART & CRAFT STUDIO NEW
Handcrafted ceramics have been popping up all over Bangkok recently, and Yarnnakarn Art & Craft Studio is leading this new wave of potters with its classical designs spruced up with bold finishes. Their store is ideally located to stop by while on a trip to Chatuchak Market, too—just look for the Kampangpetch MRT station. Products range from tableware to home décor items like vases, animal sculpture and frames. We particularly love the gloss-white-glazed, petite Bonsai flowerpot. Shop at Room 027-029, MRT Kampangpetch (Exit 1), opposite Chatuchak Market. Open Tue-Fri 11am-6pm; Sat-Sun 11am-7pm
Hot Spots VINTAGE FINDS
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TALAD ROD FAI
This vintage market reopened at the end of last year after being relocated from its old spot beside Chatuchak Market. The new location behind Seacon Square is home to small stalls selling all sorts of retro bric-a-brac, from antique toys and vinyl to secondhand clothes and cameras. There are also plenty of vintage-inspired bars and cafés. To reach it, take the BTS to Udomsuk station and then take a taxi. Talad Rod Fai, Sri Nakarin Soi 51, 081-1827-5885. Open Thu-Sun 5pm-midnight
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The selection of products reflects the owner’s love for vintage Americana. He specializes in menswear from New York, both new pieces and old stock, with a focus on 20s-70s military-themed apparel like shirts, jackets, leather bags and boots from brands like Ralph Lauren, WRL, Herman, Jong, Converse and Penney’s. Prices are quite high, but the stock is unique compared to other vintage stores. 1/F, Homeplace Building, Thonglor Soi 13, 081255-2866. Open daily 11am-6:30pm. www.fb.com/ woodensubmarine
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WOODEN SUBMARINE
MACHINE AGE WORKSHOP
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AGAIN & AGAIN
Unlike other ragged-looking vintage stores, this It-shop hooks its customers up with more in-vogue items. Glittery dresses, shirts and a selection of high-quality skirts and pants are nicely arranged by color, with new stock arriving twice a week. Although most of the items make for quite girly outfits, they do have shirts, jackets and shoes for men, too. Room B1A, Market Place, Thonglor Soi 4, 089-4865359. Open daily 11am-9pm. www.vintageagainandagain.com. BTS Thong Lo
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This store specializes in restoring, recycling and repurposing iconic artifacts from America’s golden age of manufacturing, from the late 1800s to mid-1900s. Expect to find items like vintage U.S. Army drafting tables, wood radios and leather luggage. It’s also worth stopping by to visit the café, where you can get a good cup of coffee, craft beer and hearty pulled pork and beef brisket sandwiches. 281/7 Ekkamai Soi 15, 02-381-8596. Open Tue-Sun 10am-7pm. tinyurl.com/phla6ev
UNFASHION
OTOP Gallery
If you’re looking to buy Thai handicrafts to take home, check out the OTOP (One Tambon One Product) stores, which promote local products made in Thailand’s different districts. The most appealing and most conveniently located is perhaps OTOP The Gallery (02-650-8007), situated right next to BTS Phloen Chit, which offers a wide range of products from all over Thailand such as Thai silks, home decorative items, clothes, shoes, handbags and dried foods, all in air-con comfort.
Dozens of pairs of leather shoes line the windows of this small red-brick vintage store, compelling passersby to pop-in for a look. There’s a clear sense of style to the selection, with most items imported from Italy and dating back to the 1970s. It’s not too expensive, generally ranging from B380-5,000, and there’s also a selection of other vintage leather goods, particularly bags and belts. Ekkamai Soi 10, 094-421-2411. Open daily noon9pm. www.fb.com/unfashionvintage MACHINE AGE WORKSHOP
Under the expressway, near BTS Phloen Chit. www.otopinthecity.com
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ART+ ATTRACTIONS SIAM: THROUGH THE LENS OF JOHN THOMSON NEW
The historic National Gallery used to be the home of the Viceroy in the reign of King Rama I. It officially became a gallery for public viewing in 1977, with an emphasis on promoting awareness of local and international visual arts. The current photography exhibition looks at Thailand during the era of King Rama IV (1851-1868) through images taken by Scottish photographer John Thomson, one of the earliest Western photographers in the Far East. The photographs were developed from the original glass plate negatives at Wellcome Institute London, and show spectacular detail of Thailand 150 years ago. Through Feb 28. National Gallery, 4 Chao Fa Rd., 02-281-2224. Open Wed-Sun 9am-4pm
Hot Spots EXHIBITIONS
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FLOTSAM & JETSAM
Deborah Coffey’s exhibition takes a look at what remains when our life’s prized possessions are taken by natural disaster. Her mixed-media artwork fills the walls of the Rotunda Gallery, inside the Neilson Hays Library, granted Historic Landmark status in 1986 by the Association of Siamese Architects. Through Feb 28, Neilson Hays Library, 195 Surawong Rd., 02-233-1731. Open Tue-Sun 9:30am-5pm
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TROPIKOS
This exhibition is held in the art space of W District, a growing community of creative talents in Bangkok’s Phra Khanong area. Home to urban street art and the occasional rooftop film screening, the venue currently hosts an exhibition by three Thai artists and three Brazilian artists, working in pairs to create a unifying culture in the new “Tropikos’ Land.”
Through Feb 28. Hof Art Space, W District, Sukhumvit Soi 69-71. Open daily 10am-7pm. BTS Phra Khanong
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MAN’S RELIGION
Kathmandu Gallery follows up last year’s exhibition of Nipon Intarit’s work with this new collection of his monochrome nude photography. Intarit (born 1978) held his first exhibition at the gallery last year, after he was discovered working as an air-conditioning salesman by gallery owner Manit Sriwanichpoom in Tak, Northwestern Thailand.
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Through Feb 28. Kathmandu Photo Gallery, 87 Pan Rd., 02-234-6700. Open Tue-Sun 11am-7pm. BTS Surasak
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THRESHOLD PART 2
After its successful first run, dubbed by many curators as one of 2014’s best, the group exhibition returns to the café/art space that was once a shop-house in the Charoenkrung area. The exhibition features artists Sayumphorn Janthasorn, Justin Mills, Rebecca Vickers, Karma Sirikogar, Christian Hogue, Anjali Mandrekar, Chip Seven and Dan Burman. Jan 24-Feb 20. Bridge, Charoenkrung Soi 51, 086-9869421. Open daily 10am-midnight. BTS Saphan Taksin
BARRY X BALL
The internationally renowned Californian sculptor, whose work was shown at the 54th Venice Biennale, holds his first Asian exhibition, featuring various images based on his past Italian stone sculpture installations. The highlight is a dual-portrait sculpture of himself and American contemporary artist Matthew Barney, crafted in Mexican onyx.
Through March 29. 100 Tonson Gallery, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-684-1527. Open Thu-Sun 11am-7pm. BTS Phloen Chit
Bangkok Art and Culture Centre
Set in the bustling Pratumwan area just across the road from Siam Square and MBK, the Bangkok Arts and Culture Centre (BACC) has become a popular hot-spot for the people of Bangkok. Aside from the contemporary art exhibitions, BACC also contains small, designcentric stores, ranging from cafes and restaurants to book shops. The top floor also boasts a movie theater, complete with a decent-sized stage for live performances. From Feb 12-Apr 26, it features avant-garde French artist Huang Yong Ping and contemporary Thai artist Sakarin Krue-on's exhibition titled Imply Reply. From Feb 30-Jun 14, the BACC exhibition department also hold an exhibition of rarely seen work called Crossover: The Unveiled Collection. 939 Rama 1 Rd., 02-214-6630-8. Open Tue-Sun 10am9pm. BTS National Stadium. www.bacc.or.th
THRESHOLD PART 2
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GUIDE
PROPERTY
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WISH SIGNATURE MID-TOWN SIAM NEW
A short walk from BTS Ratchatewi, just around the corner from the shopping malls of Siam, you will find the new luxury highrise from the Siamnuwat group. Rooms start from B3.4 million, and range from 27-sq-meter studios to 92-sq-meter three bed rooms. The high-rise development’s facilities include a family-friendly rooftop swimming pool, open library, mini theater and a glass-walled observation deck with spectacular views of the city. Estimated completion date: 2017 02-887-6322. www.siamnuwat.com/wishsignature
Hot Spots
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SEASIDE AND COUNTRYSIDE CONDOS
THE RIVIERA JOMTIEN
Designed by American architecture firm KTGY, this lavish, European-style condominium sits just east of Pattaya near the quieter but rapidly developing Jomtien Beach. The highrise development features three room types: studio (22.7-32.2 sq meters), one-bedroom (34.5-47.8 sq meters) and two-bedroom (74.7-104.5 sq meters). Though not directly on the coast, it is just 400 meters from Jomtien Beach. Prices start at B2.4 million. Expected completion date: 2018 092-839-9078. www.therivierajomtien.com
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BAAN MAI KHAO (PHUKET)
Standing on the edge of Phuket’s Mai Khao beach, on the quiet Northern end of the island, this luxury condo was awarded Best Condo Development in Phuket at the 2014 Thailand Property Awards. The 206 resort-style, low-rise units (starting at B13.5 million) are spread across nine buildings, with a swimming pool stretching throughout the site. There’s also another beachside swimming pool surrounded by a large, multi-purpose lawn. Expected completion date: Q3 2015 1685. www.sansiri.com/baanmaikhao
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Q SEASIDE (HUA HIN)
Rooms start at B6 million (44-147 sq meters) in this elegantly designed seaside condo located in Hua Hin, Bangkok locals’ favorite beachside getaway. The two, low-rise buildings sit directly on the beach, separated by a swimming pool and gardens styled to evoke a distinctly Italian feel. The condo is also conveniently located close to Hua Hin airport, while several of the area’s top golf courses and country clubs are just a short drive away.
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Expected completion date: Q3 2016 1388. www.qh.co.th
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BAAN SAN KRAAM (HUA HIN)
Located right by the beach and surrounded by five-star hotels, this nauticalstyled condo from Sansiri offers 52-154-sq-meter rooms starting at a little over B6 million. The condo’s highlight has to be its pool, which is integrated organically into the architecture to create a photogenic common area linking the condo’s various buildings. If that’s not sweet enough, it also offers free Wi-Fi access in all public areas.
The project is complete and ready to move in. 1685. goo.gl/xwAuO8
M Thonglor 10
Rooms in this ambitious condo from the international Swiss hospitality brand range from 47 sq meters right up to palatial, 520-sq-meter pool villas. The development consists of both a hotel and private residences styled with a lively, tropical theme, and is located close to popular Pattaya attractions such as the Floating Market, Central Festival, Underwater World and Pattaya Park.
Thailand’s high-end condominium brand Major Development has unveiled its latest project, M Thonglor 10, at the very center of Bangkok’s most buzzing neighborhood between Thonglor and Ekkamai (see Exploring, page 18). The building itself is quite something. M Thonglor 10 rises to 22 stories, its glass-house concept and floating clubhouse delivering a sense of futurism and awe. The property consists of 173 units with room types ranging from a 29-sq-meter onebedroom suite to a 153-sq-meter penthouse. Prices start from B145,000 per sq meter.
Expected completion date: Q4 2014 089-777-8422. whitesandbeachpattaya.com
141 Ekkamai Soi 12, 02-381-5665. BTS Thonglor. www.mde.co.th
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MÖVENPICK WHITE SAND BEACH PATTAYA
BAAN MAI KHAO
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NAVIGATE
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Phahon Yothin ¾ËÅâ¸Թ
Chatuchak Park Êǹ¨µØ¨Ñ¡Ã
Chao Phraya River áÁ‹¹้Ó਌ҾÃÐÂÒ
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FIND OUT THE LATEST NEWS ON THAILAND AT WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM AND FACEBOOK.COM/WHERETHAILAND
36 W H E R E T H A I L AND I F EBRUA RY 2 0 1 5
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GUIDE
NAVIGATE
Y
Essential Tips TRANSPORTATION & MONEY AIRPORT LINK
TUK-TUKS
BANKING HOURS
The Airport Rail Link (ARL) is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to get to and from Suvarnabhumi Airport, especially for those traveling light. There are two types of train: Express Line and City Line. The ARL Express Line runs from Suvarnabhumi Airport to either Phaya Thai (connecting to the BTS) or Makkasan stations (10-minute walk to MRT Petchaburi), and takes 20 minutes. The City Line stops at six stations and takes around 40 minutes. Thai Airways passengers boarding the Express Line can check in their bags at Makkasan station. One-way fares are B15-B45 for City Line and B150 for the Express Line. More information at www.srtet.co.th/en
Tuk-tuks are a noisy but fun way of getting around Bangkok, not to mention great photo opportunities. However, they are no guarantee of beating the infamous traffic and you should agree on a price before getting in. Haggle hard but be wary of any cheap offers if you don’t want an unexpected trip to a tailor or gem store.
Banking hours are generally from 8:30am-3:30pm, Monday through Friday except on public holidays and bank holidays. Banks in malls open daily, 10am-8pm.
TAXIS In Bangkok metered taxis are readily available and very affordable, with fares starting from B35 for the first two kilometers. Despite their many colors, there’s no difference in prices and service. Some drivers speak limited English, so do get your destination written down in Thai to avoid any miscommunication. Taxis sometimes try to negotiate a price. Make sure to only pay the metered price. There are now also a number of mobile phone applications and services for those who want to hail a cab without having to hit the streets. The three main apps are Easy Taxi (www.easytaxi.com/th), Grab Taxi (grabtaxi.com/bangkok-thailand) and Uber (www.uber.com/cities/bangkok). All of these are in English language and charge a fee on top of the meter price.
ATMs are very common in Bangkok and can be found in most areas of Thailand, often located outside 7-Eleven stores. You should easily be able to use overseas cards to withdraw money.
VAT REFUNDS Visitors to Thailand who make purchases of goods valued B5,000 or over from stores displaying the “VAT REFUND FOR TOURISTS” sign are eligible to receive a refund of the VAT paid on the item. At the time you purchase the item present your passport and ask the sales assistant at the store to complete the VAT Refund Application for Tourists form, attaching the original tax invoices to the form. Then at the airport, and before you check-in, present your goods and the refund form to customs officers. After checkin and immigration, proceed to the VAT Refund Office in the departure lounge. Refund amounts under B30,000 will be made in cash (Thai Baht) or by bank draft or credited to your credit card account. Refunds over B30,000 will be made by bank draft or credited to your credit card account.
SKYTRAIN/UNDERGROUND The BTS skytrain stops at Bangkok’s main districts and gives you a bird’s eye view of the city. There are two main lines: the Silom line, which runs from across the river in Bang Wa to National Stadium next to MBK Shopping Centre; and the Sukhumvit line, which runs from Soi Bearing in the eastern part of the city along Sukhumvit before heading up north to Mo Chit station by the Chatuchak Market. Siam is the interchange station between the two lines. Fares are B15-52. Unlimited day passes are B130. The underground, or MRT, is one line but has an extensive reach, from Hua Lamphong train station on the outskirts of Chinatown, down through the main Central Business District before turning North and heading up Ratchadapisek Road past Chatuchak Market and ending at Bang Sue station. Fares are B16-B40. There are three interchange stations: (1) BTS Asoke—MRT Sukhumvit, (2) BTS Sala Daeng— MRT Silom and (3) BTS Mo Chit—MRT Chatuchak. Tickets can be bought for individual journeys, or you can get special one-day tourist passes or tickets that cover a specified number of trips. For more information, go to www.bts.co.th and www. bangkokmetro.co.th. Note that the BTS and MRT use different ticketing systems.
ATMS
TUK-TUKS
CANAL BOATS While Bangkok used to be the Venice of the East, there is now only really one canal (klong) still used as a means of getting around. Klong Saen Saep canal has a ferry service that runs daily from Bang Kapi in the Eastern suburbs to Phu Khao Thong or the Golden Mount in the heart of the Old Town (Rattanakosin Island), stopping off at various piers along the way. Be warned though, the boats don’t wait long at the piers, making getting on and off rather nerve-wracking (and physically challenging). And, due to the unsavory nature of the canal water, any picturesque view is blocked by sheets of tarpaulin to prevent splashing. Fares are B9-B19.
EXPRESS RIVER BOATS These fast and frequent ferries along the Chao Phraya River are a great way to get a different perspective on the city, as well as a good option for getting to many of the temples and palaces built along the river. The main Sathorn (Central) pier is located by BTS Saphan Taksin with boats heading upstream from here and stopping off at numerous piers all the way to Nonthaburi. Fares range from B15-B42 depending on distance. You can also opt for a tourist ticket (B150), which allows one-day unlimited travel and comes with a guide booklet to some of the leading tourist attractions accessible from the river. From Sathorn (Central) Pier, you can also catch free ferries to many riverside hotels and Asiatique.
ESSENTIAL NUMBERS 1 EMERGENCY SERVICES (FIRE BRIGADE, POLICE) 191 2 AIRPORT RAIL LINK 02-308-5600. airportraillink.railway.co.th 3 BANGKOK MASS TRANSIT SYSTEM (BTS) 02-617 6000 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bts.co.th 4 BTS TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER 02-617-7340-1 (daily: 8am-8pm). www.bts.co.th 5 BANGKOK METRO (MRT) 02-624-5200 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bangkokmetro.co.th 6 CHAO PHRAYA EXPRESS BOAT CALL CENTER 02-623-6001-3 (6am-7pm). www.chaophrayaexpressboat.com 7 SUVARNABHUMI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 02-132-1888. www.suvarnabhumiairport.com 8 TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND (TAT) 1672 from Thai numbers. www.tourismthailand.org 9 TOURIST POLICE 24-HOUR CALL CENTER 1155 from Thai numbers or 02-250-5500 FEBRUARY 2015 I W HER E THA ILA N D 37
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Y
21 THINGS WE LOVE about Bangkok
1
!4
!0
9
!9
@1
1 Eating the inventive, five-course 7 Setting out for some after-dark !2 Listening to jazz at the 61-year- !7 Checking in to Health Land for tasting menu at Le Du, one of our favorite kitchens in town. See page 22.
2 Exploring the Old Town (our guide page 18) on foot, starting with the superb exhibition of John Thomson’s 19th century photographs (see page 4).
shopping at the Talad Rod Fai night market, where you’ll find retro treasures and quirky souvenirs. See page 33.
old Bamboo Bar, a sexy lounge in Bangkok’s most famous luxury hotel, the Mandarin Oriental. See page 28.
possibly the most comfortable and best-priced foot massages around. See page 32.
!3 Sipping super-strong cocktails with !8 Chowing down on the city’s best 8 Cruising down the Chao Phraya a bowl of rich Northern curry at Soul street food at the top of Sukhumvit while having dinner on a wooden barge. See page 6.
Food Mahanakorn. See page 27.
Soi 38. See page 27.
!4 Tasting the delicate Thai cuisine !9 Watching the sun set over Wat 3 Chilling at one of Samui’s swanky 9 Taking in sweeping views of at the Dusit Thani Hotel’s Benja- Arun while sampling the delicious beach club, with a strong cocktail in hand. See page 16.
4 Sipping tea in Thailand’s Northern capital, Chiang Mai, at the newly renovated Rustic & Blue. See page 12.
5 Getting a perfectly cut suit at Pinky Tailor, the top pick of welldressed locals. See page 10.
Lumphini Park while savoring the Japanese-Peruvian cuisine of the newly opened 22 Kitchen & Bar. See page 24.
rong, whose chef sticks to tradition despite discreet modern techniques. See page 7.
!0 Trying the sophisticated Thai small plates and creative cocktails at Hot Rod, a new tapas bar. See page 25.
Library’s leafy grounds and taking in its colonial architecture. See page 4 for its current exhibition.
@0 Shopping for the hottest Thai !5 Strolling through the Neilson Hays designers at womenswear boutique
!6 Hanging out with the cool kids !1 Getting pampered on the beauit- at the Noise Market, as they take
6 Basking in the aromas of HARNN, ful grounds of the Spa at Face, a over the beautiful Museum Siam’s Thailand’s leading brand for essential oils. See page 11.
complex of traditional wooden Thai houses. See page 32.
Thai food at the riverside hotel Sala Rattanakosin. See page 8.
The Wonder Room. See page 11.
@1 Enjoying the delicious local and organic food at Seven Spoons, whose Mediterranean cuisine is some of the best in Bangkok. See page 20.
century-old building with concerts and crafts. See page 4.
where in the world Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com ASIA Thailand, Singapore, Hong Kong
UNITED STATES Alaska & Yukon, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Georgia, Indianapolis, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Minneapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, New York, Northern Virginia, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, South Florida, St. Louis, Washington D.C.
CANADA Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Mississauga, Muskoka/Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Budapest, London, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg
38 W H E R E T H AILAND I F EB RUA RY 2 0 1 5
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Where to find Hotels in Bangkok The AETAS Bangkok All Seasons Bangkok Siam Aloft Bangkok Sukhumvit 11 Amari Watergate Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa Arnoma Baan Noppawong Bally’s Studio Suites Banyan Tree Bangkok Best Western Sukhumvit Cabochon Hotel & Residence Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao Centara Grand at Central World Centara Hotels & Resorts Chatrium Hotel Riverside Bangkok Conrad Bangkok Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park Dusit Thani Bangkok Emporium Suites Eastin Grand Hotel Sathorn Four Points by Sheraton Four Seasons Bangkok GLOW Pratunam Grand Hyatt Erawan Grand Mercure Park Avenue Grand Millennium Sukhumvit Holiday Inn Silom Holiday Inn Bangkok Sukhumvit 22 Hotel Muse Imperial Queens Park InterContinental Bangkok JW Marriott Bangkok The Landmark Bangkok Le Fenix Sukhumvit LIT Bangkok Luxx Majestic Grande Mandarin Oriental Bangkok Marriott Sukhumvit 57 Mercure & Ibis Bangkok Siam
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The Metropolitan Bangkok Millennium Hilton Miracle Grand Convention Montien Riverside Novotel Bangkok Ploenchit Sukhumvit Novotel Bangkok Siam Square Novotel Bangkok Impact Oaks Bangkok Sathorn The Okura Prestige Bangkok Park Plaza Sukhumvit Pathumwan Princess The Peninsula Bangkok Phachara Suites Plaza Athénée Bangkok Pullman Bangkok King Power Radisson Blu Plaza Radisson Suites Bangkok Ramada Encore Bangkok Ramada Plaza Menam Riverside Renaissance Bangkok Ratchaprasong Riva Surya Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers Siam Kempinski Shangri-La Bangkok Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit The Berkeley Hotel The Continent Hotel Bangkok The Davis Bangkok The Eugenia Hotel & Spa The Siam Siam @ Siam Design Hotel & Spa Sivatel Bangkok Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit Sofitel So Bangkok The St. Regis Bangkok The Sukhothai Bangkok Swissotel Le Concorde Swissotel Nai Lert Park VIE Hotel Bangkok ViVa Garden W Hotel Bangkok The Westin Grande Sukhumvit
where Thailand
Hotels in Other Provinces
Shopping Malls
Anantara Rasananda Koh Phangan Villa Resort & Spa Chandara Resort Conrad Koh Samui Dara Samui Beach Resort & Spa Villa Dusit D2 Baraquda Pattaya InterContinental Samui Baan Taling Ngam JW Marriott Khao Lak Resort & Spa JW Marriott Phuket Resort & Spa Le Méridien Koh Samui Resort & Spa Renaissance Koh Samui Resort & Spa Renaissance Phuket Resort & Spa Santiburi Resort Sheraton Krabi Shangri-La Chiang Mai Sheraton HuaHin Resort & Spa Tamarind Village Chiang Mai
CentralWorld The Emporium Department Complex Peninsula Plaza The River City Shopping Complex
Serviced Apartments Adelphi Service Apartments Adelphi Suites Bangkok Ascott Sathorn Bangkok Asoke Residence Sukhumvit Cape House Serviced Apartments Courtyard Marriott Grand Mercure Bangkok Asoke Residence Marriott Executive Apartments Sathorn Vista Marriott Executive Apartments Sukhumvit Park Mayfair Bangkok Marriott Executive Apartment Natural Ville Executive Residences, Bangkok Oakwood Residence Sukhumvit 24 Oriental Residence Bangkok Somerset Lakeview Sukkhumvit 16 The River Condominium
Others Uber Black limousines TAT Tourist Information Counter at Suvarnabhumi Airport (arrivals) Chao Phraya Express Boats Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC) Blue Elephant Restaurant Devarana Spa Dean & Deluca Elemis Spa at The St. Regis Bangkok The Kiwi Bangkok Sports Pub & Grill The Australian Pub & BBQ Yunomori Onsen & Spa Pizza Romana Pala La Grande Perle Kuppadeli Kalpapruek Jim Thompson Restaurant Viva & Aviv
Y Where reaches over 100,000 visitors each month. For sales enquiries, contact where@asia-city.co.th or call 02-624-9638.
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