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M A RC H 2 0 1 5 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO ®
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Showtime!
Front row with Bangkok’s top dance and music performances
Phuket’s Charming Old Town Best New Restaurants YOUR ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO BANGKOK’S HOT SPOTS COVER_March_2015_NEW.indd 1
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CONTENTS where
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l THAILAND l MARCH 2015
The Guide BANGKOK 25 DINING These beautiful heritage restaurants serve some of the best royal Thai cuisine in town.
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28 NIGHTLIFE See the city from on high at these rooftop venues with stunning views, or catch a live show at Bangkok's jazz bars.
TOP BILLING
30 ARTS+ATTRACTIONS
Dance, music and culture from the top acts hitting the stage this month.
The best exhibitions in Bangkok's galleries this month, and a look at the city's hottest modern art meccas.
DINING
32 SHOPS+SERVICES Where to shop for Thai craftsmanship, plus the most exclusive multi-label boutiques in town.
8 BANGKOK'S BEST NEW
RESTAURANTS
The past year has been great for Bangkok's fine-dining scene. Here are the hottest new restaurants you need to try.
AROUND THAILAND
Check in to Bangkok's best beauty clinics for a spot of self-pampering.
14 NEWS
Beach parties, new hotels and cultural events from across the country.
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34 HEALTH+WELLNESS
35 PROPERTY
16 ON THE TOWN
Brand-new luxury condos for a taste of high-life city living.
A long way from the the Andaman island's beaches, Phuket Town is undergoing a cultural renaissance.
36 NAVIGATE
EXPLORING
Essential tips on getting around.
20 CHAROENKRUNG One of Bangkok's oldest streets weaves along the Chao Phraya River from Chinatown to Silom, and is home to some of the city's best restaurants, galleries and shops.
20 General Manager Andrew Hiransomboon Managing Editor/Product Director Grégoire Glachant Managing Editor Oliver Irvine Deputy Editor Carl Dixon Regional Marketing Manager Pavida Chitprasertsuk Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Art Director Dechart Sangsawang Senior Designer Panita Thiraphapong
38 21 THINGS WE LOVE
22 SUKHUMVIT 51-65 The streets known as Ekkamai and Thonglor are Bangkok hipster central—not to be missed if you're into vintage shopping and craft beer. Staff Writer Pinnyada Tanitnon Contributors Vasachol Quadri, Monruedee Jansuttipan, Kanin Srimaneekulroj, Lily Kittisrikangwan, Tewit Phanitprachaya Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Marketing Executive, Creative Services Puttipat Teerakawongsakul Distribution Executive Suda Angsuputiphant
MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP | EXECUTIVE Vice President, Operations Donna Kessler Vice President, Operational Innovation Russ Leseberg Director Of Marketing Lynn Basinger
MVP | NATIONAL SALES Director Of National Sales And Custom Publishing Anthony Karwoski National Sales Managers Jennifer O'loughlin, Julie Humeas, Monica Weeks, Wanda Garcia-Fetherston
National Traffic Coordinator Leleah Robinson
E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris. Com
MVP | CARTOGRAPHY AND CIRCULATION General Manager, Where Maps Christopher Huber
On the cover Calypso (see page 4)
MORRIS COMUNICATIONS Chairman & Ceo William S. Morris III President William S. Morris IV
Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 22/F, Silom Center 2 Silom Road, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: where@asia-city.co.th facebook.com/wherethailand
ALSO INSIDE
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MVP | CREATIVE Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson Editorial Director, Visitor Guides Don Hoffman
Design Director Jane Frey Editorial Director, Custom Publishing Linda Chase Creative Coordinator Beverley Mandelblatt
MVP | TECHNOLOGY & MANUFACTURING Director Of Manufacturing Donald Horton E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.Com
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PERFORMANCES MUAY THAI LIVE: THE LEGEND LIVES AT ASIATIQUE
TOP BILLING
The fast-paced, live Thai boxing show recently celebrated its first anniversary. Created and directed by Ekachai Uekrongtham, the artistic director of Action Theatre in Singapore and director of films like Beautiful Boxer and Pleasure Factory, the stage show features more than just Thai kickboxing, throwing in plenty of swashbuckling action and a sprinkling of romance, all performed by former Muay Thai champs and national boxers.
From classical Thai cultural performances to big-name international performers, Bangkok has an incredible stage lineup this March.
Where: Asiatique the Riverfront, Warehouse 4, 2194 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-108-5999, www.fb.com/ muaythailive.bkk, reservation@muaythailives.com Date & Time: Tue-Sun 8-9:30pm Tickets: B1,200 and B1,500
MUAY THAI AT RAJADAMNOEN STADIUM
CALYPSO
SIAM NIRAMIT BANGKOK
SPECTACULAR STAGE SHOWS CALYPSO AT ASIATIQUE SIAM NIRAMIT BANGKOK This over-the-top visual spectacular draws on the histories of Thailand’s four main regions—the North, the South, the Central Plains and the Northeast—to present an 80-minute history of a nation that delves into its religious beliefs and major festivals. Expect plenty of state-of-the-art effects and a full, on-site replica village. Where: 19 Tiamruammit Rd., 02-649-9222, 02-6499275. info@siamniramit.com, reservation@siamniramit.com, www.siamniramit.com. Free shuttle bus from MRT Thailand Cultural Centre Station, exit 1 at 6pm. Date & Time: Show starts at 8pm daily. MRT Thai Cultural Center Station, Exit 1. Pick up and hotel transfer service available, reservation by phone Tickets: From B1,500
The first Broadway-style cabaret show in Bangkok, founded in 1988, consists of 70 artists performing a diverse variety of cultural shows, from Arirang (Korean classic folk tale) to Kinnaree (classical Thai dance) to a contemporary burlesque act. It’s all massively kitsch and something of a Bangkok institution. Performances are held every day at 8:15pm and 9:45pm. Prices are B1,200 for the show only or B2,000 including dinner. Advance booking needed.
MUAY THAI AT RAJADAMNOEN STADIUM Thailand’s most famous Muay Thai stadium, dating back to 1941, is the definitive place to witness genuine, championship Thai boxing bouts. The beautiful art deco building holds matches for both amateurs and professionals three days a week, and is as popular with Thais as tourists. Foreigners are seated ringside, while the outer seats are occupied by hard-gambling locals—as much of a spectacle as the fighting. Where: Rachadamneon Nork Rd., 02-281-4205, 02-280-1084, rajadamnern.com, info@rajadamnern. com Date & Time: Mon, Wed, Thurs 6:30-10pm; Sun 3-5pm, 6:30-10pm Tickets: B1,000, B1,500 and B2,000
Where: Asiatique the Riverfront, 2194 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-688-1415, www.calypsocabaret.com. Free ferry shuttle from BTS Saphan Taksin Date & Time: Performances are held every day at 8:15pm and 9:45pm Tickets: B1,200 for the show only or B2,000 including dinner. Advanced booking needed
MUAY THAI AT RAJADAMNOEN STADIUM
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DINNER SHOWS A taste of classical Thai culture
Sala Rim Naam
SALA CHALERMKRUNG
BAAN SILAPIN
48 Oriental Avenue, Bangkok , 02-659-9000. www.mandarinoriental.com
CULTURAL PERFORMANCES NATIONAL THEATRE Located next to the National Museum in Old Bangkok, the theater focuses on traditional Thai performance art like khon (masked Thai dance) and lakhon (a classic form of Thai dramatic dance). It is also one of the best places to see the Ramakien, Thailand’s epic national play based on Hindu mythology. Performances are held on select Fridays and Sundays (call in advance or have your concierge call to find out when). Where: Phra Borom Maha Ratchawang, Na Phra That Rd., 02-224-1342 Date & Time: This season’s performances start on Mar 27 at 5pm Tickets: B60, B80 and B100. Advance booking needed
BAAN SILAPIN “The Artist’s House,” Baan Silapin, is run by a fellowship of artists who bought a century-old wooden house on the banks of Bang Luang Canal (Khlong Bang Luang in Thai), the former home of a merchant family, and transformed it into an artist’s residence and public space. It’s now known as one of the best places to view traditional Thai puppet shows, made all the more special by the trip along the river to reach it. Where: 309 Wat Thong Sala Ngam, Phetkasem Rd. 28/22, 02-868-5279, 081-638-5279. www.artisthousebkk.com Date & Time: Open daily 10am-6pm. Shows take place nearly every day at 2pm but call ahead to avoid disappointment
Set in a Thai-style pavilion on the opposite side of the river to Bangkok’s oldest hotel, this beautiful restaurant hosts nightly performances of Thai dance accompanied by ornately-presented royal Thai cuisine. Note that the restaurant adheres to a strict dress code, with men expected to wear long trousers and closed footwear. Open daily 8:15-9:30pm
Joe Louis at Asiatique
SALA CHALERMKRUNG
KHON AT SALA CHALERMKRUNG ROYAL THEATRE Khon is a form of masked dance that was traditionally performed for the royal court. The story is based on a version of the Ramayana, an Indian epic that tells the tale of a great war between Rama and Thotsakan. The khon performance at Sala Chalermkrung Royal Theatre focuses on the story of Hanuman, a white monkey god who commands Rama’s army. It’s a great chance to experience one of Thailand’s finest art forms, combining extravagant costumes and highly skilled dancers. Where: 66 Sala Chalermkrung, Charoenkrung Rd., 02-224-4499. www.salachalermkrung.com Date & Time: Thurs and Fri 7:30pm Tickets: B800, B1,000 and B1,200. Free entry for children 12 years and under, B200 for adult’s over 65
The intimate Thai puppet troupe performs various shows spanning from traditional to modern styles at a Thai food restaurant within the Asiatique riverside complex (itself a destination well worth exploring). The troupe claims direct ancestry to Master Sakorn Yangkhiawsod (know as Joe Louis), who in 1901 invented the art of classical Thai small puppets. Performances take place Tue-Sun from 7:30pm onwards. Asiatique the Riverfront, 2194 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-688-3322. www.joelouistheatre.com
Aksra Hoon Lakorn Lek Sadly, the puppet troupe that used to perfom at the Aksra Theatre has been relegated to dinner shows. If you don’t mind elbowing your way past busloads of mainland Chinese tourists at a buffet line, you can catch them at the 600-seat Ramayana Restaurant and the slightly more upscale La Moon (200 seats). Open for lunch and dinner. King Power Downtown Complex, 8/1 Rangnam Rd., 02-205-8888. BTS Victory Monument Y See also Bussaracum, page 27.
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CONCERTS SADAO WATANABE GROUP 2015 IN BANGKOK One of the world’s most successful jazz saxophonists brings over his musical crew for a night of soulful tunes. The veteran Japanese artist has had 13 albums in the top 50 billboard charts, and several of those peaked at number one on the jazz charts. Tickets are B500-3,500, available through Thaiticketmajor.com. Doors open at 6pm. The concert comes as a part of his 2015 world tour. Mar 4, 7pm. Royal Paragon Hall, 5/F, Siam Paragon, 02-262-3456. BTS Siam
INCUBUS JASON MRAZ
The multi-platinum-selling alternative rock band perform hits like “Drive,” “Are You In?” and “Love Hurts” ahead of the release of their next album in late 2015. Doors opens at 6pm. Tickets cost B1,500-3,000 (some categories are already sold out), available through Thaiticketmajor.com. Mar 11, 7pm. Impact Arena, Muang Thong Thani, 99 Popular Rd., 02-833-4455
MAYA MUSIC FESTIVAL This massive EDM music festival will see ex-member of the legendary Swedish House Mafia Steve Angello headlining the 20-meter Electro-Naga stage, with support by other big names like Markus Schulz and Vicetone. General tickets at B2,500 and VIP tickets at B4,000, which come with two free drinks, and private lounge, restroom and fast-lane access. Mar 7, 4:30pm. 11th Infantry Regiment, King’s Guard, Phahon Yothin Rd. www.mayamusicfestival.com
JASON MRAZ AND RAINING JANE The acoustic singer-songwriter is back in Bangkok for a third visit, promising an intimate, performance despite the big venue. He’ll be joined by his long-time musical companions Raining Jane. Unfortunately, B5,000 tickets are already sold out (let your concierge pull some strings). Doors open at 7:30pm. Mar 21, 8:30pm. Impact Arena, Muang Thong Thani, 99 Popular Rd., 02-833-4455
MAYA MUSIC FESTIVAL
MOGWAI After their last, sold-out Bangkok performance in 2012, the veteran Scottish post-rock band returns for an exclusive live show. Expect music from their latest studio album, Rave Tapes, as well as other intense sounds from their back catalogue. All tickets are B1,500, available through Thaiticketmajor.com. Mar 13, 8pm. Moonstar Studio, 701 Lad Phrao Soi 80. 02-539-3861
ONE DIRECTION ON THE ROAD AGAIN TOUR 2015 The British boy group that needs no introduction returns to Bangkok after two years for a mega-scale concert as part of their Asia and Australia tour. Tickets cost from B1,800-B10,000, available through Thaiticketmajor.com. Doors open at 5pm. Mar 14, 8pm. Rajamangala Stadium, Huamark. 2088 Ramkamheang Rd., 02-318-0940-4. MRT Ramkamhaeng
MOGWAI
STAGE SHOW DISNEY’S BEAUTY AND THE BEAST—THE ORIGINAL BROADWAY MUSICAL The award-winning production finally comes to Bangkok after 13 years of successful performances all over the world. Expect a great show supervised by Michael Kosarinbeautiful, choreographed by Matt West and costumed by the Tony Award-winning Ann Hould-Ward. Shows run Tue-Sun at 7.30pm, with additional 2pm performances every weekend. Tickets are B1,000-4,000, available through Thaiticketmajor.com. Through Mar 15, 2pm, 7:30pm. Muang Thai Rachadalai Theatre, 4/F, The Esplanade, 99 Ratchadaphisek Rd. MRT Thailand Cultural Centre
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BANGKOK’S BEST NEW RESTAURANTS
FRENCH L’ATELIER DE JOEL ROBUCHON
The past year has been a wonderful time for Bangkok’s fine-dining scene. The city got three new restaurants with three-Michelinstar affiliations—L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon, J’Aime and Vogue Lounge—and two with one-Michelin-star cred—Ginza Sushi Ichi and Savelberg. But it wasn’t all about fancy international chefs. At places like Osha, Siam Wisdom and Khao, Thailand’s homegrown talent started doing some wonderful things with local cuisine, too. So here are the very best new restaurants you need to try in Bangkok.
Borrowing the same concepts from all L’Atelier branches, this elegant red and black space has diners seated around a large open kitchen, a format more reminiscent of a sushi bar than classic dining a la Francaise. The food remains unmistakebly French, though—free-range quail stuffed with foie gras and potato purée—and with all the finesse you’d expect from Joel Robuchon, the chef with the most Michelin stars in the world. 5/F, Mahanakorn Cube, 16 Narathiwat Ratchanakarin Rd., 02-001-0698. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm
SAVELBERG Dutch chef Henk Savelberg, the former chef of the recently closed one-Michelin-starred Savelberg in The Hague, has made Bangkok his first venture outside Europe. His restaurant serves fine interpretations of old world cuisine with minimal-yet-elegant presentation which, he says, allows the ingredients to shine. Dishes include fillet of veal filled with goose liver, crostini with parmesan flakes and rocket, and wagyu beef tartare with capers, piccalilli, bacon, pickled cucumber and egg yolk. G/F, Oriental Residence, 110 Wireless Rd., 02-2528001. Open Mon-Sat noon-2:30pm, 6-10pm
L’ATELIER DE JOEL ROBUCHON
J’AIME BY JEAN-MICHEL LORAIN This restaurant from Jean-Michel Lorain of the acclaimed three-Michelin-starred Côte Saint Jacques in Burgundy is helmed by Lorain’s protégé, Amerigo Sesti. The food is contemporary in presentation but sticks to quite classical French flavors. Expect dishes like Bourguignonne beef cheeks, oyster terrine and veal shank confit, served with Michelin-star levels of perfection (the front of house is handled by Lorain’s daughter, Marine Lorain).
J’AIME JEAN-MICHEL LORAIN
U Sathorn Bangkok, 105, 105/1 Soi Ngam Duphli, Sathorn Rd., 02-119-4899. Open daily noon-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm
L’ATELIER DE JOEL ROBUCHON
SAVELBREG
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DINING ITALIAN ATTICO Sitting pretty on the 28th floor, this Tuscan-inspired restaurant boasts a rather ritzy but warm atmosphere, and a kitchen headed by Dario Busnelli, a native of Lombardy with two-Michelin-star experience. Traditional Tuscan and Lombard dishes such as homemade ravioli con porcini, burrata salad with parma ham, and branzino al cartoccio (steamed whole sea bass from Brittany) are hearty and authentic. There’s also a lengthy and well-curated list of old world wine.
ATTICO
28/F, Radisson Blu, 27 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-3023333. BTS Asok. Open daily 6-11pm
LENZI TUSCAN KITCHEN The new venture from Frencesco Lenzi, former head chef at Medici in Hotel Muse, serves rustic-style Tuscan food from a refined-looking dining room created by Italian designer Ermanno Scapin. There’s a big emphasis on cold cuts, courtesy of Lenzi’s uncle’s small-scale organic ham company, Antica Norcinera. The tagliere del Lenzi platter includes truffle-rich mortadella col tartufo and melt-in-yourmouth pancetta Toscana. We also like the nettle potato gnocchi with gorgonzola cheese and Iberico pork cappicola.
SENSI
SENSI
Ruam Rudi Soi 2, 02-001-0116. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-midnight LENZI
PEPPINA
PEPPINA
SENSI
Wanting to make the most authentic Neapolitan pizza in Bangkok, Chef Paolo Vitaletti (of the highly esteemed Appia, which is just around the corner) ordered his massive pizza oven directly from Italy, along with a Neapolitan baker with five years’ experience just to make the dough. The result is simply some of the best pizza in town. But Peppina also serves a variety of fresh salads, specialty cold cuts, and hearty grilled meats.
Chef Christian Martena, formerly of one of Bangkokians’ favorite Italian restaurants, Opus, opened this elegant, high-quality and innovative restaurant earlier in the year. Everything about Sensi is on an exceptional level, from the humble and approachable service to the beautifully plated food with the occasional flourish in the form of spherified balsamic, tomato sorbet or apple mousse. There’s also no kicking up a fuss when some diners want a la carte and the rest of the table is having sets.
27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-119-7677. Open Tue-Sun 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30pm-midnight
Narathiwat Ratchanakarin Soi 17, 02-117-1618. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-midnight
PEPPINA
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JAPANESE GINZA SUSHI ICHI This offshoot of a famed Tokyo sushi restaurant claims to fly all its fish straight from Tsukiji Market in Japan within 24 hours of purchase—in fact, they’re so serious about this that they won’t open on the day after Japanese holidays. All the chefs also trained under Masakazu Ishibashi of the Michelin-starred mother branch, and prepare the dishes right in front of diners, with the option of ordering omakase, where the chef selects the freshest cuts of the day.
GINZA SUSHI ICHI
LG/F, Erawan Bangkok, 494 Ploenchit Rd., 02-2500014. BTS Chit Lom. Open Tue-Sun noon-2:30pm; Tue-Sat 6-11pm; Sun 6-10pm
FILLETS This high-end Japanese restaurant offers omakase, where the chef picks what you eat at an eight-seat bar. The fresh sushi and sashimi are cut from fish bought at Tokyo’s Tsukiji Market, while the chunky cuts of wagyu beef come from Australia’s Darling Farm. There’s an a la carte menu, too, and both private rooms and large tables for bigger parties. Unusually for a Japanese restaurant, the cocktails menu is inventive and bold.
SUSHI HINATA
FILLETS
3/F, Portico, 31 Lang Suan Rd., 02-652-2607. BTS Chit Lom. Open Mon-Sat noon-2:30pm, 6:30pmmidnight
SUSHI HINATA This sushi specialist with branches in Nagoya and Malaysia is part of a new wave of serious, omakase-service sushi restaurants in Bangkok. Beyond the attractive white, Japanese Zen-like facade, the restaurant serves sets of the finest seafood cuts with immaculate attention to detail, with the sushi chef personally applying exactly the right amount of soy sauce to each one. They also use a form of rice that’s less soft and moist than at other restaurants for a more authentic experience. 5/F, Central Embassy, Ploenchit Rd., 02-160-5935. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 11am-10pm
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KHAO
OSHA
THAI OSHA Set in a solemn-looking stone pavilion by the US Embassy, this restaurant by a Thai celebrity chef features fancified versions of Thai classics like papaya salad, as well as more inventive creations that incorporate modern cooking techniques. Its main claim to fame is a B1,500 version of krapow-nua, a Bangkok street food staple of stir-fried beef with holy basil. 99 Wireless Rd., 02-256-6555. Open daily 11am2:30pm, 6pm-midnight
BENJARONG
SIAM WISDOM
BENJARONG
KHAO
SIAM WISDOM
The food at this signature Thai restaurant for one of Bangkok’s old-guard hotels was given a total revamp by the former head chef at Sra Bua (itself a sister of oneMichelin-star Kiin Kiin, in Copenhagen). It’s still devoutly Thai as far as flavors go, but incorporates Euopean slow-cooking methods, and is plated with modern touches. The result is highly refined but also satisfyingly authentic.
Chef Vichit Mukura, the long-time former head chef of Mandarin Oriental’s Sala Rim Naam (see page 27), opened this chef’s table on the same premises as the exclusive Japanese restaurant Yuutaro. Khao serves up Thai cuisine with modern presentation. The restaurant only welcomes small groups of 4-12 people each evening who can watch the chef working on classic Thai dishes like spicy salad cooked with premium ingredients such as matsusaka beef.
Set in a traditional Thai house, this is one of the rare fine-dining restaurants that is both doing authentic Thai cuisine and helmed by an actual Thai chef. Chumpol Jangprai uses high-quality produce sourced from the best locations, such as shrimp paste from Klong Khon, palm sugar from Petchburi and sturgeon’s roe from the Royal Projects in Northern Thailand. The results are seldom-seen dishes like gaeng buan (herbal soup with pork offal) and pla nam pork sausage.
Dusit Thani, 946 Rama 4 Rd., 02-200-9000. MRT Silom. Open daily 6-10pm; Mon-Fri 11:30am2:30pm
64 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 098-829-8878. Open TueSun 6:30-11pm
66 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-260-7811-2. Open daily noon-2pm, 6-10:30pm
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AROUND THAILAND THE LATEST OPENINGS AND HAPPENINGS AROUND THE KINGDOM
NIKKI BEACH SAMUI
NINE COFFEE
PHANG NGA
THE NEW HEAVEN
THE HAVEN KHAO LAK
Hidden away on 16 rai of greenery on Khuk Khak Beach, The Haven Khao Lak (076429-900/2, www.thehavenkhaolak.com) offers 110 luxurious rooms, suites and villas. The highlights are the villas which line a massive 5,000-sq-meter saltwater swimming pool that stretches along the resort’s 380-meter beachfront. The opening rates for March start from B4,500 for a deluxe room, B7,500 for deluxe pool-access room and B12,500 for villa Jacuzzi, all of which include breakfasts. To complete the honeymoon vibe, the resort doesn’t allow guests under 16 years old. SAMUI
SEXY WHITE
BABA IKI
After the first birthday of Nikki Beach Phuket in February, its big sister Nikki Beach Samui (www.nikkibeach.com, 077-914-500) on Lipa Noi Beach is gearing up to celebrate six years on Mar 20. Expect a slew of dancers, acrobats and musicians, plus a few surprises. Prices range from B542 per person to B45,290 for the Ultra VIP Bottle Service Table, which covers eight guests and in-
cludes two bottles of Champagne and one bottle of Grey Goose Vodka. Book at goo. gl/MlqBFB. The dress code is strictly white from head to toe. PATTAYA
ONLY U Pattaya’s once seedy image is changing, thanks to the arrival of new designer hotels. The latest is U Hotels, with U Pattaya Hotel (033-046-100, www.upattaya.com) which opened Feb 15. Located between Jomtien Beach and Bang Saray, the contemporary hotel consists of 44 rooms and a few beach villas complete with sunken balcony seats to watch the sunset. Opening rates start from only B2,599, and there’s a further 30-percent discount for weekday stays between Sun-Thu. CHIANG MAI
BUBBLING OVER Chiang Mai’s latest coffee hotspot is Nine One Coffee (Soi Nimmanhaemin 11, 091775-8406, open daily 8am-10pm). While the cafe may be new, the people behind it are well-known organic coffee growers and roasters, whose 9-1 Organic Coffee Farm is
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U PATTAYA HOTEL
CHIANG MAI
PHUKET
NEW DARLING
FRESH CATCH
After several years of hype, the boutique hotel by Thailand’s number one film star, Ananda Everyingham, Hotel Yayee (17/5 Sainamphueng Rd., 099 269 5885. fb.com/hotelyayee), is finally open. Deriving its name from the Thai word for “darling,” the hotel has transformed a four-story shop-house into 14 casual but luxurious rooms decorated with Lanna handwoven shawls and carpets from Ananda’s mother’s homeland, Laos. There are only two room types: small (24 sq meters) at B1,900 and big (32 sq meters) at B2,500; both prices are net and include free minibars and breakfast. There’s also a small rooftop terrace where you can order cocktails while enjoying the impressive sunset over Doi Suthep Mountain.
Luxury Phuket resort Sri Panwa (076371-000, www.sripanwa.com) now has a Japanese restaurant, Baba IKI. Taking its name from the Japanese phrase for sculling a drink, ikki nomi, the restaurant sits on the top floor of Baba Pool Club and has spectacular views over the Andaman Sea. The local celebrity chef behind Bangkok’s Honmono, Boontham Parkpho, has devised the menu, which ranges from traditional items like Shirao Salad and teppanyaki to Thai-inspired dishes like the yakitori spiced with jaew sauce. They also claim to be the only restaurant on the island to serve the super-premium Hida wagyu beef. Through Apr 15, rates at Sri Panwa start at B19,832 for a onebedroom Garden View Suite.
HOTEL YAYEE
found in the mountainous Doi Saket area. The long drinks list spans espresso (like the wonderful double ristretto), syphon, drip and French press. Try their house blend, Lanna Paradise, which is made of highquality beans sourced from plantations around the North. PHATTHALUNG
RED SEA If you missed out on Udon Thani’s sea of red lotus flowers this winter, fear not. Mid-March to April is the perfect time to visit Talay Noi (“small sea”) in the Southern province of Phatthalung, which has its own vast coverage of vibrant red lotus. Thailand’s first wildlife sanctuary is also famous for welcoming more than 150 bird species, some of whom migrate to the area from as far off as Siberia. The best way to enjoy this great lake is to fly to Had Yai or Trang then rent a car to the sea. It takes 1.5 hours from Trang and two hours from Had Yai. Call TAT Had Yai (074-243-747, 074231-055) for more information. Read more about Thailand’s best lakes and reservoirs at goo.gl/wgVPnq.
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AROUND THAILAND: PHUKET SOI ROMMANEE
Another star is Soi Rommanee, which connects Thalang Road with Dibuk Road, a former red light district. There’s a little flea market there every Saturday night. Just make sure you arrive before 10pm. Also Don’t miss the Sunday night walking street, Lard Yai, from 4-10pm on Thalang Road.
CAFÉ CULTURE Sip traditional coffee among the locals at Kopi de Phuket (61 Phuket Rd., 076-212225. www.kopidephuket.com) which feels like a cross between a Chinese tavern and a tea house. Other charming coffee shops include Mac-Chiato House Cake Box (48 Thalang Rd., 076-215-701), which serves homemade coffee and cakes from the type of narrow old shop-house that’s typical of Phuket Town, and Pirrera Cafe Bar (39/1 Dibuk Rd., 092-497-8953), an old building on the corner of Dibuk. Also look up the longstanding China Inn Cafe (20 Thalang Rd. 076-356-239) and Dibuk Restaurant (69 Dibuk Rd., 081-719-5340)—both are lovely architectural specimens.
ON THE TOWN
Thanks to architectural renovations and a buzzing bar and gallery scene, Phuket Town is thriving.
ARTISTIC PERSPECTIVE
WUA ART GALLERY & STUDIO
P
huket’s old quarter has never been better. The electricity and phone cables which used to mask the beautiful Sino-Portuguese shop-houses have been buried, and the old Chinese communities—mostly Hokkien—have come together to create Thailand’s best new walking street fair. They’re also rediscovering their Baba Nonya roots, a rich culture in Phuket and Penang where Chinese heritage, colonial influence and indigenous traditions combine. This heady mix is attracting an ever-growing number of galleries and cafes to the picturesque town center. So put on your walking shoes and get ready for fiery Southern Thai cuisine, Hokkien delicacies, Sino-Portuguese architecture, stimulating galleries and a solid dose of Baba Nonya nostalgia.
MAC-CHIATO
STREET LIFE The historic town center’s most beautiful streets are all within walking distance of each other: Dibuk, Thalang, Phang Nga, Yaowarat. To make sure you hit all the highlights, get a hold of the excellent Phuket Town Treasure Map at the Tourism Authority of Thailand (191 Thalang Rd., 076-212-213). Nearly every shop-house in the area is worth its salt. The best way to start your journey through time is at Phuket Thai Hua Museum (Krabi Rd., open Tue–Sun 9am-5pm. 076-211-224) which transforms the oldest school building in Phuket (dating back to the 1930s) into a twostory exhibition detailing the island’s Chinese ancestry, Phuket Town’s growth to prosperity and the school itself. While The Memory at On On Hotel (19 Phang Nga Rd. and Promthep Clock Tower (Thepkasattri Rd.) are the two which feature in countless local TV ads.
Phuket Town’s countless galleries are often tucked away in century-old buildings. Many are just shops dedicated to the artist and owner or community spaces and schools. Our pick of the bunch would be Wua Art Gallery & Studio (1 Phang Nga Rd. & 42 Phang Nga Rd. 081-415-4008, 076-258-208. Open daily 9:30am-9:30pm. www.wua-artgallery. com), whose owner, “Mr. Zen,” paints highly graphic portraits with urban themes, and Sarasil (121 Phang Nga Rd., 076-224-532. Open daily 8am-9pm), whose colorful paintings are inspired by Thailand’s regions.
PIRRERA CAFE BAR
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SOUTHERN DINING For classic cuisine in a beautiful setting, Blue Elephant (96 Krabi Road, 076-354355, www.blueelephant.com) offers both central Thai and Southern dishes. On a lower price level but still with an upscale atmosphere, Suay Restaurant (50/2 Takuapa Rd., 087-888-6990, www. suayrestaurant.com) serves creative Thai fare courtesy of an experienced five-star hotel chef. Dessert is a must. Southern cuisine meets Sino-Portuguese decor at Raya Restaurant (48 Dibuk Rd., 076-218155). The century-old building’s original mosaic-tiled floor and walls adorned with 50s tea and coffee poster-girls will take your mind off the somewhat hefty prices. For a lighter meal, consider Kopitiam by Wilai (18 Thalang Rd., 083-606-776), which serves traditional dishes like mee Hokkien (Phuket-style noodles). If street food is more your thing, start with the famous Mee Ton Poh (214/7 Phuket Rd., 076-216-293), a popular noodle haunt for locals and visitors.
SUAY
RAYA
PLOENCHIT
AFTER DARK Though far from the Patong strip, Phuket Town still has a bunch of places to enjoy a night out. Start at Cue Bar (Clock Tower, Phuket Road, 082-423-0184), where those who are good at poolstand to win some cash, before heading to Anna’s Phuket Bar & Restaurant (13 Rassada Rd., 076-210-535), which serves a great selection of cold beers in an environment of Chino-Portuguese architecture. For live music, check out the old-cinema-evoking Ploenchit (41/1 Chana
Charoen Rd., Talat Yai, 086-949-9555). Want more beats? The long nightlife institute Kor Tor Mor Club (Chana-Charoen Rd. [Talad Yai], 082-423-0184) is famous for DJ tunes and keeping late hours. Once you stumble out, head to Ko Benz (163 Krabi Rd., 084-060-7799) for the most renowned tom luerd moo (pig’s blood in clear soup B50-70) in town. Your hangover will Thank you for it.
BLUE ELEPHANT
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whereExploring MARCH 2015 | BANGKOK SPEEDY GRANDMA
CHAROENKRUNG ROAD Charoenkrung celebrated its 150th anniversary last year, making it one of Bangkok’s oldest roads. Running along the Chao Phraya River and connecting the city’s major trade hubs, the area is filled with cultural attractions, from Rattanakosin Island to Chinatown, Silom and Sathorn. Thanks to a recent revival of Charoenkrung’s old shop-houses, there are now plenty of cool galleries and bars to be discovered, too.
NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES 20 CHAROENKRUNG
22 SUKHUMVIT SOI 51 TO 65
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EXPLORING
CHAROENKRUNG Y CHAROENKRUNG’S
TOP 5 STREET-FOOD STALLS
!8 Kao Kha Mu Charoen Sang Silom This famous (and crowded) spot serves Chinese-style stewed pork knuckle with rice. Come early before it sells out. 02-234-8036. Open daily 8:30am1.30pm
!9 Jok Prince Bangrak One of the best congee (rice porridge) in Bangkok—a simple but powerful blend of velvety stewed rice, minced pork and poached egg.
NEW !6 SOULBAR Tucked in a small shophouse not far from Chinatown, this simple but tastefully turned out bar plays host to live soul and funk bands every Tue-Sat. The venue has been renovated in a simple loft-like style with a lot of empty space, putting the focus squarely on the live bands. Drop by for the daily happy hours (6-8pm)—our pick is the Summer Beer (mint chocolate kombucha and half a pint of draft beer).
089-795-2629. Open daily 6am12pm, 4pm-9pm
945 Charoenkrung Rd., 095-521-1541. Open Tue-Sat 6pm-midnight
@0 Prachak Pet Yang
ATTRACTIONS
GALLERIES
The area between Soi 34-44 is rich with architectural attractions. Among them is the 1 Old Customs House (Charoenkrung Soi 36), which dates back to 1880 and was once the trading gateway between Bangkok and the rest of the world. It’s now used as the fire brigade’s headquarters. The recently renovated 2 General Post Office building next to Charoenkrung Soi 34 is another unique part of Bangkok’s architectural heritage, and one of the few Art Deco buildings to be found in the city. Religious highlights include the Thai-Chinese 3 Wat Suan Phlu temple
There are three worthwhile galleries in the 6 O.P. Garden compound (4,6 Charoenkrung Soi 36, 02-266-0186). The oldest among them is Serindia Gallery (02-238-6410), founded in 2009 by publisher and art enthusiastic Shane Suvikapakornkul. The gallery focuses on Asian cultural artefacts,
ASSUMPTION CATHEDAL
(Charoenkrung Soi 42/1), where you can go and pay respect to the Chinese Guan Yin, and 4 Assumption Cathedral (Charoenkrung Soi 40), a Roman Catholic church dating back to the early 1900s that serves as the place of worship for the Catholic all-boys’ school Assumption College. There’s also a strong Muslim community based around the 5 Haroon Mosque (Charoenkrung Soi 36). Once the city’s largest wooden mosque, it has since been reconstructed in concrete but remains in keeping with traditional Islamic design.
GENERAL POST OFFICE
Rumored to have existed for over a century, this place specializes in khao na pet (roasted duck with rice) 02-234-3755. Open daily 7am8.30pm
JAO LONG LUK CHIN PLA
@1 Jao Long Luk Chin Pla & Jae Lee Luk Chin Pla
SERINDIA GALLERY
specifically from the Himalayan region. Next door, Modern Gallery (02-2386449) features work by revered Thai artists like Thawan Duchanee and Chalermchai Kositpipat along with the
Located opposite each other, these two restaurants are renowned for their noodles and fish balls. Both are great. Jao Long Luk Chin Pla 02-234-7499. Open daily 6am-9pm Jae Lee Luk Chin Pla 02-234-2791. Open daily 8am-9pm
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new generation like Lolay Thaweesak Sritongdee. Right opposite, French gallerist Pascal Billieres’ Artha Gallery (02-630-9489) aims to promote rising Southeast Asian artists from Thailand, Myanmar and Vietnam. If you’re looking for something more edgy, head down to Charoenkrung Soi 28. 7 Speedy Grandma (089-508-3859) is a big favorite of Bangkok’s alt-indie crowd thanks to its regular exhibitions, film screenings and parties. Nearby, 8 Soy Sauce Factory (061-835-6824) is run by same group of people and focuses on photography exhibitions.
you’ll find the by-appointment-only showroom of !2 P.Tendercool (081813-2249), which sells striking tables made from reclaimed slabs of teak. Though purchasing a table will set you back a six-figure sum, it’s worth dropping by purely for the spectacle, as well as to peer into next door’s !3 Fifty-Five Antiques (087-363-6383), which has some of the most impressive ancient Burmese artefacts in the city.
Bangkok. Its combination of old-school silver service and immaculately plated classic cuisine is still hard to beat. For a refined Cantonese experience under dripping chandeliers, check out Shang
DINING Thanks to the many luxury hotels that line the riverbank, this is one of the best areas in Bangkok for high-end dining. The city’s oldest and, by our reckoning, most atmospheric hotel, the !1 Mandarin Oriental, is home to Le Normandie, which for years set the standard for French fine dining in
SAMBAL
Palace at the !4 Shangri-La Hotel, (Charoenkrung Soi 44, 02-236-7777) where you’ll find a la carte dim sum as well as other Chinese favorites like Peking duck and whole suckling pig. In the same hotel, Angelini is a solid option for Italian cuisine, while !5 Sambal at the Royal Orchid Sheraton is a more laidback, stylish riverside venue that serves Southeast Asian cuisine with contemporary touches. Also see our pick of Charoenkrung’s best street food eats opposite.
NIGHTLIFE Opened back in 1953 but given a stunning renovation at the end of last year, the Mandarin Oriental’s !1 Bamboo Bar is one of the city’s oldest live jazz institutions. To this day, it maintains a moody, lounge-lizard atmosphere made even better thanks to some of the city’s best cocktails (try the barrelaged XO Sezerac). The recently opened !6 Soulbar (945 Charoenkrung Rd., 083-092-2266) offers live music of a very different sort, in a casual shophouse kitted out with industrial furnishings (for more info, see opposite). Located right by the Chao Phraya River, !7 Viva & Aviv is an open-air cocktail bar with a subtle (and chic) pirate theme. Soak up the river view and enjoy bistrostyle food and well-made cocktails to the sounds of top local DJs.
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1 Old Customs House 2 General Post Office 3 Wat Suan Phlu Temple 4 Assumption Cathedral 5 Haroon Mosque 6 O.P. Garden - Serindia Gallery - Modern Gallery - Artha Gallery 7 Speedy Grandma 8 Soy Sauce Factory 9 River City !0 O.P. Place !1 Mandarin Oriental Hotel - Lotus Arts de Vivre - France Van Damme - Le Normandie - Bamboo Bar !2 P. Tendercool !3 Fifty-Five Antiques !4 Shangri-La Hotel - Shang Palace - Angelini !5 Sambal !6 Soul Bar !7 Viva & Aviv !8 Kao Kha Mu Charoen Sang Silom !9 Jok Prince Bangrak @0 Prachak Pet Yang @1 Jao Long Luk Chin Pla & Jae Lee Luk Chin Pla .
The area is well-known for antiques and gemstones, as well as shipping services to help bring your goods home. 9 River City (Charoenkrung Soi 34, 02-237-0077) is a one-stop shopping complex that offers Thai craft, antiques and artwork by local artists. For fine fashion and decorative objects, !0 O.P. Place (Charoenkrung soi 38, 02-237-4062) is filled with tailor shops, jewelry specialists and Thai handicraft souvenirs from The Chitralada Projects. It’s also worth taking a look at the historic !1 Mandarin Oriental hotel (Charoenkrung soi 38, 02659-9000), where there are several high-end jewelry and fashion brands including Lotus Arts de Vivre (02236-0400) and Hong Kong-based resort-wear specialist Marie France Van Damme (02-630-9400). Tucked away in a complex of WWII-era warehouses,
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SOY SAUCE
GETTING THERE RIVER CITY
Getting to this part of Charoenkrung is easy. Simply take the BTS (Silom line) to Saphan Taksin station. From there you can either explore Charoenkrung by foot or take one of the free hotel boats that shuttle guests from Saphan Taksin pier.
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EXPLORING
SUKHUMVIT SOI 51 TO 65 Y HOT SPOTS
Big in Japan A sizable Japanese community makes this one of Bangkok’s best locations for ramen, sushi and sake.
@1 Honmono Sushi The excellent sushi here is worth the high prices, plus the restaurant isn’t a bewildering experience for neophytes. Years after opening, it still packs in affluent Thais every night (reservations are a must) with its fresh fish from Tsukiji Market in Tokyo. 19 Thonglor Soi 23, 02-185-1447. Open Mon-Fri 5pm-midnight; SatSun 11:30am-2pm
NEW 1 BLACK
AMBER THONGLOR SOCIAL CLUB
The Thonglor neighborhood’s super-stylish Black Amber Barber Shop & Tattoo (between Thonglor Sois 5 and 7) has now opened this full-on gentlemen’s whiskey bar and networking spot. The bar sits on the first floor, focusing on whiskey (mainly single malt) and rum. The shelves are filled with familiar bottles like Glendfiddich, Ballantine’s and Suntory, as well as cheaper blends including Teacher’s, Browmore and the esoteric Monkey Shoulder. Prices, rather surprisingly, aren’t too bad either. Black Amber Thonglor Social Club, Thonglor Soi 6, 092-276-2772.
N
early all the streets—or “soi,” in Thai—along Sukhumvit Road are known by their number. But Thonglor (Sukhumvit Soi 55) and Ekkamai (Sukhumvit Soi 63) are way too cool for that. These two parallel streets are quite simply the most buzzing in Bangkok, home to the best bars, clubs and restaurants. Here is our pick of the bunch.
ART & ATTRACTIONS There are only a few art spaces in this neighborhood, but they are among the more interesting in town. 2 Pridi Banomyong Institute (65/1 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-3813860-1), for example, is the theater of choice for some of Thailand’s youngest and most experimental dancers and actors. Check the B-Floor Theater Group’s Facebook page (www.fb.com/Bfloor.theatre. group) prior to visiting for up-to-date information on shows. Further down the same street, 3Ardel’s Third Place Gallery (137-137/1 Thonglor Soi 10, 02-714-7929) showcases work from both established and emerging local artists in a striking space, with its concrete floor, vast windows, whitewashed walls and exposed supporting steels. After browsing the gallery,
head to the next street over to visit 4 Health Land (96/1 Ekkamai Soi 10, 02-392-2233), where you’ll get one of the best-priced massages in Bangkok. Clean, private treatment rooms and efficient staff account for its massive local popularity.
SHOPPING This is hipster central, and shopping around Ekkamai-Thonglor is all about
MACHINE AGE WORKSHOP
vintage. 5 Machine Age Workshop (281/7 Ekkamai Soi 15, 02-381-8596) is an ambitious vintage fashion and furniture store set in a giant, openplan warehouse. It specializes in repurposed odds and ends from America’s manufacturing age, from the late 1800s to mid-1900s: army drafting tables, wood radios and leather luggage. They also do a good beef brisket sandwich, if you’re feeling peckish. Be warned, some of the items are pretty expensive, although that doesn’t mean bargains can’t be found. For a more guaranteed wallet-friendly bet, head up the street to leather-specialist 6 Unfashion (Ekkamai Soi 10, 094421-2411), where brogues, loafers, duck boots, belts and other accessories in various states of disrepair can be browsed while sipping a coffee from the adjoining cafe. Visit 7 Again & Again (Market Place, Thonglor Soi 4, 089-486-5359) for something a little more feminine. Unlike other ragged-looking vintage stores, this It-shop hooks its customers up with
@2 Mugendai This resatuarant from a group of Japan-ophile friends focuses on premium ingredients. Recommendations include the Aburi Seven, a sushi set with Matsusaka beef, otoro (fatty tuna), as well as the unagi foie gras (grilled eel sushi stuffed with foie gras) and kinki shioyaki (grilled rockfish with salt). 7/F, Grass, Thonglor Soi 12, 02726-9222, 087-996-8888. Open daily 5:30pm-midnight; Sat-Sun 11:30am-2:30pm
@3 Teppen Tucked behind Major Sukhumvit cinema, this wooden-floored pub is a favorite among Japanese expats looking for a taste of home. The warm lighting and sincere staff create a friendly, authentic vibe. 14/2 Sukhumvit Soi 61, 02-7141412. Open daily 6pm-midnight. BTS Ekkamai
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SUKHUMVIT SOI 51 TO 65
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Tucked inside a narrow lane, this cool, intimate shophouse bar is favored by Bangkok’s local and expat hipsters. The ground floor features a small corner bar with retro touches like old movie posters, vintage bench seating and flowery tiles. Head there early to ensure a table if you’re too self-conscious to stand around outside (where most of the crowd congregates) and be sure to check out the upstairs gallery. 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-662-6246. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-1am. BTS Thong Lo. www.wtfbangkok.com
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Lane Ekkamai) might be tiny, but it’s one of the coolest cocktail lounges in town: a colonial-inspired bolthole that does a good job deceiving you into thinking it’s always been in its tucked away location, even if it is in a low-rise mall. Across from it, @0 Hot Rod, is as much a bar as a great spot to nibble on authentic Thai food.
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More laidback and with dishes closer to street food, !0 Soul Food Mahanakorn (56/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 085-904-2691) serves a brief menu of perfectly executed Thai regional dishes. Don’t leave without trying its excellent, double-strength cocktails. Regional Thai cuisine specialists include !1 Supanniga Eating Room (160/11 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-714-7508), where the mix of Eastern Seaboard and Isaan food makes for arguably the best Thai restaurant in Bangkok, and !2 Phuket Town (160/8 Thonglor Soi 6, 02-714-9402), with its classic Southern dishes. For the best Thai dessert around, don’t miss the mango and sticky rice at !3 Maewaree (1 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-392-4804)—ours and many others’ absolute favorite. The cosmopolitan area also has plenty of good Western food, whether it’s the down-to-earth sharing plates of
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Well-to-do Bangkok hipsters rub shoulders with expats at !7 Badmotel (between Thonglor Sois 15 and 17, 02-712-7288), a stylishly renovated three-story bar with regular DJs and a sizable outdoor garden. The craft-beer stronghold !8 Mikkeller (26 Ekkamai Soi 10, 02-381-9891) attracts a similar but more laidback crowd, and is set in in a charming mid-century house. For the area’s best happy hour, head to !9 Moose (Ekkamai Soi 21. 02-1089550) between 5-8pm, when strong, fruity cocktails are on buy-one-getone-free. Not all the area’s nightlife is geared at the party crowd. @0 A.R Sutton Engineers Siam (G/F, Park
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SUPANNIGA EATING ROOM
NIGHTLIFE
38 Sukhumvit
You are in Bangkokians’ food heartland, from street food to high-end Thai to quality fine dining. 9 Bo.lan (Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-260-2962) takes a traditional approach to Thai food with the occasional contemporary tweak in the presentation. Opt for the Bo.lan balance, a degustation menu that regularly changes to reflect seasonal products.
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!4 Opposite Mess Hall (27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-662-6330), which attracts a young, bohemian crowd, or the classic French fine dining fare of !5 4 Garcons (1/F, Oakwood Residence, 113 Thonglor Soi 13). Alternatively, ignore all the fancy bars and restaurants and head to !6Sabaijai Kebtawan (65 Sukhumvit Soi 63), where a feast of Thai seafood can quickly turn into a Leo beer-fueled karaoke session with friendly locals.
Sukhumvit 51
glittery dresses, shirts and a selection of high-quality skirts and pants. Cratediggers should drop by 8Zud Rang Ma Records (7/1 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 088891-1314), one of the best record stores in town, stocking an eclectic collection of vintage Thai funk and global sounds.
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ThewhereGuide MARCH 2015 | BANGKOK
NEW
BAMBOO BAR
Bangkok’s oldest jazz bar, opened back in 1953, recently underwent a stunning renovation. Singers take the mic at 9pm daily, accompanied by music from a baby grand and surrounded by framed portraits of jazz legends who’ve passed through over the years. What’s more, the bar also does some of the best cocktails in town, whether it’s the Rose Jam Tea Time with its base of tea-infused gin, or the six-month bottle-aged negroni. Mandarin Oriental, 48 Oriental Ave., 02-659-9000. BTS Saphan Taksin. Open Sun-Thu 5pm-1am; Fri-Sat 5pm-2am
BANGKOK’S BEST VENUES 25 DINING 28 NIGHTLIFE
30 ART + ATTRACTIONS 32 SHOPS + SERVICES
34 HEALTH + WELLNESS 35 PROPERTY
36 NAVIGATE
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Taking its name from the eclectic boulevard in Venice Beach, California, the restaurant combines bohemian decor with seafood dishes like Baja fish tacos and wild salmon ceviche. There’s a lively bar downstairs, while the mezzanine offers a much more refined dining experience. The kitchen is helmed by the Filipinoborn, American-trained chef Rene Michelena, who despite the California theme, says the focus is squarely on local produce. 253/2 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-258-6250. Open Mon-Sat 5pm-1am; Fri 11am-3pm; Sun 11am-10pm. MRT Sukhumvit
MEAT MARKET
Three steakhouses we love
Hot Spots THAI CUISINE IN HERITAGE HOUSES
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BLUE ELEPHANT
The flagship branch of the globally-known Thai restaurant brand is housed in a stunning colonial-style mansion with a classic interior of dark rattan furnishings and authentic Asian artifacts. Chef and owner Nooror Somany Steppe and her team serve up royal Thai cuisine with authentic flavor. While more modern Thai restaurans have lately grabbed most column inches, Blue Elephant is still worth a visit for both atmosphere and food.
233 Sathorn Rd., 02-673-9353. Open daily 11:30am2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm. BTS Surasak
RUEN URAI
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RUEN URAI
This century-old house outfitted with beautiful antiques is just as stunning outside as inside. Paying homage to the orignal owner, who was a herbal medicine practitioner, the menu incorporates strong herbs and spices such as green peppercorn, wild ginger, galangal and turmeric. Ingredients are of high quality and the curry pastes taste like they’re made from scratch.
BLUE ELEPHANT
Rose Hotel, 118 Soi Nawat Hua Lamphong, Surawong Rd., 02-266-8268/-72. Open daily noon-11pm. BTS Sala Daeng
HAMILTON’S STEAK HOUSE
1 NEW YORK STEAKHOUSE 2/F, JW Marriott Bangkok, 4 Sukhumvit Soi 2, 02-656-7700. Open daily 6-11pm. BTS Phloen Chit 2 RIB ROOM & BAR (RR&B) 31/F, The Landmark Bangkok, 138 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-254-0404. Open daily 6pm-midnight. BTS Nana 3 HAMILTON’S STEAK HOUSE G/F, Dusit Thani Hotel, 946 Rama 4 Rd., 02-200-9000. Open Mon-Fri 11:30am2:30pm; Mon-Sat 6:30-10:30pm. MRT Silom/BTS Sala Daeng
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TASTEOFTHECITY DINING GUIDE
Recent Openings
EATDUSTRY
Thonglor’s new all-day breakfast joint which turns into a bar later in the day.
555/55 Thonglor Soi 19, 081-567-5544
TALES OF GOLD MINE
The new fusion addition to Groove features Californian gold mine-inspired grub with Western and Chinese influences.
1/F, Groove @ CentralWorld, Rama 1 Rd.,02-613-1270. BTS Siam
METRO ON WIRELESS
Thai and Western comfort food in a brand new hotel featuring an afternoon-till-late dessert bar.
2/F Hotel Indigo, 81 Wireless Rd., 02-207-4999. BTS Phloen Chit
Advertise your business with us starting from B5,000
TAPER
The new brunch spot by by the chef behind the creative Thai restaurant Le Du, serving Asian twists on all-day breakfast.
Email sales@asia-city.co.th or call 026249601
44/11 Thonglor Soi 13, 099-929-5464
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DINING
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SALA RIM NAAM
The signature Thai restaurant of Bangkok’s most pedigreed hotel serves mild yet authentic flavors, with nods to Royal cuisine and an emphasis on quality ingredients. It’s set on the other side of the river from the main hotel, with a terrace that overlooks the water for al fresco dining. Recommended dishes include goong phad prik daeng (fried prawn with garlic and red chili sauce) and the massamun nuea (Southern-style beef curry with sweet potato and onion). Mandarin Oriental, 48 Oriental Ave., Charoenkrung Rd., 02-659-9000 ext 7333. BTS Saphan Taksin. Open daily noon-3pm, 5pm-midnight
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BUSSARACUM
The setting and presentation of the food at this classic Thai fine dining restaurant are exquisite. Servers in traditional Thai costume and live khim performances complete the old-fashioned dining experience (it claims to be Bangkok’s first upscale Thai restaurant), as do royal cuisine touches like ornate fruit and vegetable carving. Don’t miss the rare, traditional recipes like rhoom (minced pork and shrimp wrapped with egg net), luke tao (shrimpstuffed mushrooms) and saengwa (grilled prawn salad with deep-fried catfish). 1 Si Wiang Rd., 02-266-6312/-6. BTS Surasak. Open daily 11am-2pm, 5-10:30pm.
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ISSAYA SIAMESE CLUB
Issaya is a vibrant and exciting take on traditional Thai cooking. The vibrancy begins with the décor, which is bright and bold, large floral wallpaper and vivid blue walls somehow combining perfectly with the heritage building. The food manages the same high-wire act of being resolutely traditional and thought-provoking in equal measure. Don’t miss the kradook moo aob, delicious chili glazed baby back ribs; it is fall-off-the-bone tender and decadently sticky and sweet.
STREET FOOD CENTRAL: SUKHUMVIT SOI 38 Conveniently located right next to BTS Thong Lo, Sukhumvit Soi 38 is a lively hub of good street food featuring numerous stalls specializing in Thai and Thai-Chinese specialties. Though many stalls don’t have name signs, they do offer menus in English with food pictures. The operation starts from about 5pm and runs through the early morning hours so you can drop by before or after your night out in Sukhumvit. Highlights include the ba mee puu moo-daeng (yellow noodles with crab and roast pork, B40-B50), kao man kai (rice with steamed chicken or fried chicken, B50-60), kuay tiew kua kai (stir-fried chicken noodles, B40-50), and pork entrails soup with vegetables and seafood (B70). There are also many shop-house-style restaurants along the road. Look out for the one specializing in khao soi (chicken or pork noodles in coconut milk curry, B50), identified by the Chinese doughnut seller out front. There are quite a few dessert stalls too, selling everything from ice cream to the classic Thai dessert kao niew ma muang (sticky rice with sweet mango, B60-80), which can be found at the beginning of the street.
4 Soi Sri Aksorn, Chuaphloeng Rd., 02-672-90401. MRT Khlong Toei. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-midnight
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Krua Apsorn Despite the slightly grubby ambience, the dishes here are special, in part because they’re made the “old-fashioned” way and have been fine-tuned over decades. The awesome mussels with basil, yellow chili, krachai (wild ginger) and green peppercorns are so plump and sweet that chefs from other restaurants have inquired about their source. Be sure to order the crab omelet (kai jeow pu), too. Samsen Rd., 02-668-8788. Open Mon-Sat 10:30am7:30pm
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GUIDE
NIGHTLIFE PAINTBAR BANGKOK NEW
Mingle with artsy locals at this bar combining nightlife with painting classes. A steady flow of craft beer, cocktails and wine helps perfect your brushstroke, as does the tuition from a local artist. Sessions start at 7pm Tuesdays and Fridays; 2:30pm and 7pm Saturdays; 10am and 3pm Sundays. Book through their website, www.paintbarbangkok.com, for discounted prices on the painting course. 6/F, Piman 49, 46/4 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 081612-6105. Open Tue-Sat 2:30-11:30pm; Sun 10am-6:30pm.
Hot Spots ROOFTOP BARS
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ABOVE ELEVEN
This bar and restaurant doesn’t just have great views of the city; there’s also an adventurous menu of Japanese-Peruvian fusion (aka Nikkei) cuisine. Small plates like acebichado rolls (seabass, ika karage, avocado) and skewers of anticucho beef heart are bettered only by their signature cocktails. Note that if you’re sitting at the bar you’ll have your back to the skyline, so its worth booking a table in advance. 33/F, Fraser Suites Sukhumvit, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 083-542-1111. Open daily 6pm-2am. BTS Nana
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L’APPART
On the 32nd floor of Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, chef Jeremy Tourret serves modern French cuisine in a restaurant that feels like a classic Parisian apartment—parquet floor, velvet upholstery, wood paneling, even a La Cornue stove in the open kitchen. The chef is passionate about Thai produce, so expect to find regional touches in the brief menu, broken down into market, signature dishes and tapas.
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32/F, Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Soi (between Sois 13 and 15), 02-126-9999. Open daily 5pm-1am. BTS Nana
RED SKY
The 55th floor view from Centara’s rooftop puts this bar in the same league as high flyers like Vertigo at the Banyan Tree. Al fresco dining and drinking takes place under a swooping, red-lit arch in an environment that’s much more relaxed than the adjoining Fifty Five restaurant. Chef Hugo Coudurier prepares a menu focused on highquality French ingredients, best enjoyed with a drop from the hotel’s excellent wine cellar. 55/F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld, 999/99 Rama 1 Rd., 02-100-6255. Siam. Open daily 6pm-1am, 5pm-1am
ABOVE ELEVEN
THE SPEAKEASY
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THE SPEAKEASY
Maggie Choo’s
This rooftop cocktail lounge takes you back to the jazz age. The two-story space sports prohibition-era-inspired decor, featuring lots of dark woods and Art Deco touches. A balcony on the 24th floor lets you take in 180-degree views of Bangkok’s business district, while an al fresco rooftop offers a more leisurely atmosphere. Try classic cocktails that really pack a punch, like the Sazerac 1838, which combines Jack Daniels, absinthe and bitters.
This elegant bar evokes colonial outposts, the Pax Britannica of Queen Victoria, the decadence of opium or gambling dens, steamy exoticism (and steaming noodles on your way in), James Bond movies and gentlemen’s clubs. You can usually expect some kind of entertainment: a band, a DJ accompanied by a percussionist and beautiful ladies in cheongsam dresses lazing about. The cocktail menu is sweet, fruity and aromatic.
24-25/F, Hotel Muse Bangkok Langsuan, 55/555 Lang Suan Rd., 02-630-4000. Open daily 6pm-1am. BTS Ratchadamri
Underground/F, Hotel Novotel Bangkok Fenix Silom, 320 Silom Rd., 091-772-2144. BTS Surasak
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NIGHTLIFE
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JAZZ BARS Jamming in the Big Mango Brown Sugar
The Living Room Bangkok
Smalls
This place ranks as one of Bangkok’s best jazz bars. The Phra Sumen institution offers classic Western comfort food and cocktails, plus live performances by quality local jazz bands. Performances run from 8:30pm from Tue-Sun.
With regular international guests of the highest caliber, this hotel bar is one of the most serious jazz institutions in town. There’s also a free-flow drinks deal for B1,200 from 8pm-midnight.
This laidback, late-night cocktail lounge is set in a corner-shophouse and split over three levels including a roof terrace with really great views. The eclectic crowd ranges from true afficionados who come to nurse a drink while listening to live jazz, to young groups of friends always keen to check out the most buzzed about places in town. The bar specializes in absinthe, but there are some great cocktails, too.
469 Phra Sumen Rd., 08-1805-7759. Open daily 5pm-1am
Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-649-8353. 99 Sukhumvit. Open daily 9am-midnight. BTS Asoke
Saxophone
Jazz Happens
This old favorite is best known for its jazzy offerings led by local saxophone star Koh Mr. Saxman. However, a solid dose of reggae can be heard here, too. Just swing by on Fri and stick around long (and late) enough for Thailand’s godfathers of reggae, TBone, to take to the stage (every Fri night, from midnight-1:30am).
This little jazz boutique owned by one of Thailand’s most prominent pianists, Nu Vudthivichai, showcases the skills of a wide range of performers, from contestants on televised talent show The Voice to students and graduates of the highly regarded Silpakorn Jazz Faculty. Order a bottle of Singha, some Thai Pub grub and swing away.
3/8 Phaya Thai Rd., 02-245-3592. Open daily 6pm-2am. BTS Victory Monument
JAZZ HAPPENS
186/3 Suanphlu Soi 1, 095-5851398. Open Wed-Sun 7:30pm-2am; Mon 7:30pm-2am
Phra Athit Rd., 02-282-9934. Open daily 7pm-1am SMALLS
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CLOUD 47
For a break from the high-end, hotel rooftop bars, this venue has equally stunning views of the central business district in a more roughand-ready environment. Prices are reasonable by any standard, but for a rooftop venue they’re downright cheap. Give the main dishes a miss and instead opt for fried bar snacks to accompany jugs of draught Singha and Absolut vodka cocktails. Regular live bands provide a casual, party-like atmosphere. 47/F, United Center, Silom Rd., 091-889-9600. Open daily 5pm-1am. BTS Sala Daeng
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OCTAVE
The bar’s trendy-but-mature vibe is accentuated by striking views from the top floor of the Marriott Sukhumvit hotel. The first level features a long balcony filled with sculpture-like sofas, above which are a couple of private rooms and a third tier with 360-dedgree views around a circular bar. DJs play not-too-loud funky house to a crowd of young executives and hotel guests drinking classic cocktails with slight twists. The food focuses on Asian-themed bar snacks. 45/F, Marriott Hotel Sukhumvit, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57, 02-797-0000. Open daily 6pm-1am. BTS Thong Lo
OCTAVE
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ART+ ATTRACTIONS HIGHLIGHT
DISQUIET
Chiang Mai-based British artist Will Klose presents a series of beautifully realistic paintings based on his memories of London’s suburbs in a new exhibition curated by H Gallery. Klose studied at Edinburgh School of Art and Camberwell School of Art in London, and has held exhibitions both in Thailand and at the National Portrait Gallery in London. Through Mar 31. G1 Contemporary Art Gallery, Gaysorn Plaza, 999 Phloen Chit Rd., 085-0215508. Open daily 10am-8pm. BTS Chit Lom
Hot Spots EXHIBITIONS
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THAI NEOTRADITIONAL ART
The exhibition looks at the work of a group of Thai artists who have been instrumental in developing a new stylistic language for Thai art that appeals to international audiences. Among them is Professor Chalermchai Kositpipat, National Artist in Visual Arts 2010, who was one of the original volunteers to paint imagery on the walls of the UK’s first Buddhist temple, the Buddhapadipa Temple, in 1987.
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URBAN CORNER
Saitle Ngaorsai paints his experiences of urban city living in Bangkok. Though the exhibition at first appears dark and devoid of happiness, says Saitle, it is also balanced with stories of kindheartedness.
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Through Mar 15. DOB Hualamphong Gallery, 318 Rama 4 Rd., 02-422-2092. Open Tue-Sat 10:30am7pm, Sun 10:30am-5:30pm. MRT Hua Lamphong
Through Apr 26. Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA), Bejajinda Building, Wiphawadi-Rangsit Rd., 02-953-1111. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm
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DESIGN OBJECT MOVEMENT: INDONESIA - THE PHILIPPINES
The mini exhibition curated by Thailand Creative Design Center selects local, creatively designed products from Indonesia and the Philippines that have been adapted to meet global trends, as well as global products modified for local tastes, all with a focus on eco design.
Through Mar 31. TCDC, 6/F, The Emporium, 662 Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02-664-8448 ext. 216, 216. Open Tue-Sun 10:30am-9pm. BTS Phrom Phong
URBAN CORNER
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TRUNKATED TALES
The historic library’s Rotunda Gallery and Cafe hosts a new exhibition featuring the work of Millie Young, a British artist and 2D animation lecturer at Mahidol University, who captures images of elephants, the national animal of Thailand, through various media. The opening reception takes place on Mar 3 from 7-9:30pm, followed on Mar 13 by the auction of her paintings during the Thailand National Elephant Day Fundraiser. Mar 3-29. Neilson Hays Library, 195 Surawong Rd., 02-233-1731. Open Tue-Sun 9:30-5pm. BTS Chong Nonsi
Jim Thompson House
The former home of CIA agent and savior of Thai silk Jim Thompson is a beautifully preserved complex of six traditional Thai-style houses brought here from all over the country, containing his art and antique collection of sculptures, paintings and porcelain. There is also an exhibition space, restaurant and shop. 6/1 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Rd., 02-216-7368. Open daily 9am-5pm. B100. BTS National Stadium. www. jimthompsonhouse.com
DESIGN OBJECT MOVEMENT
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ART+ ATTRACTIONS
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BARRY X BALL: PORTRAITS AND PHOTOS
The internationally renowned Californian sculptor, whose work was shown at the 54th Venice Biennale, holds his first Asian exhibition, featuring various images based on his past Italian stone sculpture installations. The highlight is a dual-portrait sculpture of himself and American contemporary artist Matthew Barney, crafted in Mexican onyx.
Through March 29. 100 Tonson Gallery, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-684-1527. Open Thu-Sun 11am-7pm. BTS Phloen Chit
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CITY OF ART
Bangkok's best contemporary art galleries
100 Tonson
Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC)
One of the foremost contemporary art galleries in Bangkok, 100 Tonson regularly welcomes such high-profile artists as Rirkrit Tiravanija. The gallery’s greatest pride is its ability to take Thai artists abroad, and it was the first Thai gallery to be present at Art Basel, in Switzerland. Located down a leafy side street, 100 Tonson’s beautiful, contemporary building was designed by renowned French designer Christian Liaigre.
Set in the bustling Pratumwan area just across the road from Siam Square and MBK, BACC has become a popular hot-spot for the creative people of Bangkok. Aside from the contemporary art exhibitions, BACC also contains small, design-centric stores, ranging from cafés and restaurants to book shops. The top floor also boasts a movie theater, complete with a stage for live performances.
100 Soi Tonson, Ploen Chit Rd., 02-684-1527. BTS Ratchadamri. Open Thu-Sun 11am-7pm
939 Rama 1 Rd., 02-214-6630/-8. BTS National Stadium. Open Tue-Sun 10am-9pm.
BARRY X BALL : PORTRAITS AND PHOTOS
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BUILD YOUR OWN BANGKOK
The popular hipster bar and gallery WTF (see page 23) hosts an exhibition of largescale drawings by Bangkok-born illustrator Kathy MacLeod. In it, she maps out Bangkok as a series of eco-systems, each with its own, unique inhabitants. Viewers are provided with field guides to learn about everything from the varying species of sex tourists to the relationship between backpackers and the jaded vendors who target them on Khao San Road. Mar 12-Apr 11. WTF Bar & Gallery, 7 Sukhumvit soi 51, 02-662-6246. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-midnight. BTS Thong Lo
The Adler Subhashok Gallery
Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA)
The Subhashok Art Center has joined forces with Parisian gallery Adler, becoming the Adler Subhashok Gallery. The gallery plans on taking Thai art global and developing the market the way China did 10 years ago. Contemporary international and local artists are usually combined in one exhibition under a single theme. You can expect big names, given Adler’s connections with artists like Helmut Newton and David LaChapelle.
This 18,000-sq-meter, five-story building in the North of Bangkok is Thailand’s biggest private museum and the country’s first significant permanent modern art collection open to the public. The works are mostly post-1990s, with plenty of realism and surrealism depicting rural scenes and mythology. The highlight is the fourth floor’s four rooms dedicated to the late Thawan Duchanee, Thailand’s most renowned contemporary painter.
160/3 Sukhumvit Soi 33, 02-662-0299. Open Tue-Sun 10am5pm; Sat-Sun 11am-6:30pm
Room 499, Bejajinda Building, Wiphawadi-Rangsit Rd., 02-9531111. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm
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BANGKOK
SHOPS+SERVICES ROD FAI MARKET 2 NEW
Bangkok’s most popular night market, Talad Rod Fai, recently opened this new, smaller venue closer to the center of town. The emphasis is strongly on vintage pieces, from piles and piles of pre-loved clothes to furniture and curios like boardgames and billboards. While you shop, you can grab a beer from one of the various bars and enjoy live street gigs from local indie bands. Note that the market is already a huge hit with Thai teenagers, and during weekends the crowd can be huge. Esplanade Complex. Open Thu-Sun 5pm-1am. MRT Thai Cultural Central
Hot Spots HIGH-END THAI CRAFTS
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ALEXANDER LAMONT
Drawing from his experiences living in both Europe and Asia, Alexander Lamont’s beautiful decor items successfully blend European techniques with the subtle mystique of Asian art. The materials, from bronze to stingray skin, are always luxurious and meticulously handcrafted by the local artisans under Alexander Lamont’s employ, ensuring that each piece of furniture is both unique and meaningful.
2/F, Central Embassy, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-1605772. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Phloen Chit
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OTOP HERITAGE (CENTRAL EMBASSY)
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YARNNAKARN ART & CRAFT STUDIO
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Launched back in 2010, Yarnnakarn Art & Craft Studio is leading the new wave of Bangkok potters thanks to classical designs spruced up with bold finishes, like the all-white paint used on the petite Bonsai-friendly flowerpot. The products range from tableware to home decor items like vases, animal sculptures and frames. Room 027-029, MRT Kampangpetch (Exit 1), opposite Chatuchak Market. Open Tue-Fri 11am6pm; Sat-Sun 11am-7pm
One of a number of Thai craft shops under The One Tambon One Product (OTOP) brand, this store specializes in luxury items produced in Thailand. It features more than a thousand handicraft products selected from different producers around the country, mostly home decorative items and fashion accessories. Other OTOP sites include OTOP The Walking Street in Silom (02-635-7061) and OTOP The Avenue (096-231-2843) in Ramintra. 4/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-1605975. Open daily 10am-8pm. BTS Phloen Chit
YARNNAKARN
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JIM THOMPSON
The original, main store of this pioneering Thai silk brand stocks silk clothes and accessories across its three floors. The space is classic and palatial, paneled with teak from wall to wall, and shows off a range of elegant silks, from pillowcases and scarves to clubby neckties. There are other branches at Jim Thompson House (a must-visit within walking distance of BTS National Stadium) as well as various malls and five-star hotels around Bangkok.
JIM THOMPSON
9 Surawong Rd., 02-632-8100. Open daily 9am9pm. BTS Sala Daeng
Asiatique
The first shopping center to sit on the riverbank is themed according to the city’s architecture of old. It includes over 1,500 boutiques covering quirky fashion and intriguing souvenirs, as well as a variety of eateries, beer gardens and wine bars. The gigantic venue is also home to a ferris wheel and stage shows. We particularly recommend the seafood at Baan Khanitha. 2194 Charoen Krung Rd., 02-108-4488. Open daily 5pmmidnight. Free ferry from Sathorn Pier
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SHOPPING
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THINGG BY THINKK
Bangkok-based furniture studio Thinkk has been making big waves on the international design circuit, and has now launched a sister brand that gets in touch with its Thai roots. Thingg by Thinkk Studio works with local craftspeople to incorporate their skills into signature designs like woven lampshades, place mats, bottle openers and cement plant pots.
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BANGKOK’S BEST MULTI-BRAND CONCEPT STORES Why settle for just one label?
Available at Anyroom, The Jam Factory, 41/1/5 Charoen Nakorn Rd., 02-861-0950. www.fb.com/ thingg.product
UNCENSORED
THINGG BY THIKK
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FOUND BY TRIMODE
Trimode’s lead jewelry designer traveled to various provinces around Thailand to help contemporize traditional products, in collaboration with The Support Arts and Crafts International Centre of Thailand. The brand recently won the big prize at the Asia Talents 2014 segment of BIG+BIH for products like Doipui, a modern redesign of a traditional Hmong embroidered hat, and Nong Bua Daeng, hand-woven cotton hats and totes colored with natural indigo and ebony dyes. 3/F, The Wonder Room at Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd., 0-2658-1098. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Siam
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PDM BRAND
What initially began as a design consultancy has recently crossed over into production. As well as a line of bare-metal steel furniture, designer Doonyapol Srichan has now reinvented the cheap and ubiquitous Thai polypropylene mats. By using modern, graphic patterns and carefully considered color combinations, he’s turned stale, disposable designs into something a lot more stylish while maintaining exactly the same production methods.
SIWILAI
Siwilai
Next to Normal
The 826-sq-meter flagship store of the high-end Central Embassy shopping mall features nonmainstream designer goods from some of the most of-the-moment brands. Their exclusive product selection is headlined by collaborations between Siwilai and international names like Kitsune, Globe-Trotter and Orlebar Brown. As well as fashion, the store also houses vintage records, books, magazines and other curiosities.
This sleekly designed store features fashion and lifestyle products from a long list of global fashion brands such as Ashbury, Thom Browne, Maison Kitsune, Undercover and Clover Canyon. Next to Normal encourages its customers to get a bit more adventurous with their looks and get with the latest catwalk trends by mixing and matching products from a diverse pool of labels .
5/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-160-5809-12. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Phloen Chit. www.siwilaistore.com
Uncensored Lesser-known, up-and-coming designers with interesting profiles. 2/F, CentralWorld, Rama 1 Rd., 02259-8619, 02-646-1448. Open MonThu 10am-9pm; Fri-Sun 10am-10pm. BTS Chit Lom. www.uncensoredbangkok.com
Room A106, 1/F, CentralWorld, 74/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02-646-1847. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Chit Lom. www.nexttonormalstore.com
American Rag Cie Stocked from top to bottom with a staggering number of men’s, women’s, shoes and denim brands, this store, located right by CentralWorld’s futuristic annex, Groove, is the first branch of the American multi-brand store
to open in Southeast Asia. Head straight to the shop’s World Denim Bar area, which offers quality denim products from well-known brands such as Paige, BLK DNM, and J Brand. 1/F, Groove, CentralWorld, 999/9 Rama 1 Rd. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Chit Lom. www.fb.com/americanragbkk
Gin & Milk Offering a selection of menswear from brands like Meticulous, Pattara and Pattric Boyle in a lavish, European-styled store, this concept store is for the dapper man wanting to look his smartest. Specializing in dressy and vintage fashion, the store even has a tailor corner for anyone looking for custom-made suits without braving the shops along Sukhumvit Road. 3/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd., 02-6581000 (1376). Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Siam. www.fb.com/ginandmilkstore
Available at Kenkoon showroom, Thonglor Soi 10, 02-711-5701/2. Open daily 10am-7pm. www.facebook.com/PDMBRAND
PDM BRAND
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HEALTH + WELLNESS HIGHLIGHT
MYTH
Its massages are heavily influenced by the Wat Pho school—credited as the birthplace of Thai massage (see below)—and are performed using the spa’s own blend of essential oils. The modern-rustic decor could come straight from a five-star hotel, but the prices are much more down-to-earth, while the main treatment room is arranged in the traditional, Thai-style communal format. There’s also a delightful al fresco bar, a boutique selling Thai-made textiles, and a private fortune-telling service. 28/3 Soi Ruam Rudi, 02-651-5600-1. BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily noon-midnight
Hot Spots SALONS TO LOOK YOUR BEST
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PANIPA
Founded by Panipa Pavanarit, a successful and reputed beautician, the salon boasts a wide variety of professional services, performed by experienced English-speaking staff. Equipped with clean and modern facilities, it offers an array of hair and nail services as well as spa and wellness treatments. Try the body spa treatment, which includes a body scrub, massage and body mask. Or, if you’re looking for something quick yet relaxing, opt for a pedicure with paraffin treatment.
Classily decked out in dark tones with a few Balinese influences, this all-in-one spa business offers facial treatments, aromatherapy, Swedish and traditional Thai massage. Six rooms are dedicated to facials and massages, while another two are VIP suites complete with hydrobaths. We recommend The High Wine Lover, in which your body is scrubbed with grape extract and salt, and then wrapped with grape extract before a rejuvenating 60-minute aromatherapy massage.
Ekkamai Soi 19, 02-392-6218. Open Mon-Sat 8am5:30pm
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DERMASTER
Housed in a 2,000-sq-meter compound and operated by a board of certified plastic surgeons, Dermaster is recognized as one of Bangkok’s best aesthetic institutions. The vast compound houses four separate beauty centers equipped with all the latest technology for everything from cosmetic surgery to wellness procedures. Facial treatments include Derma Frax laser therapy, while the non-surgical “Self Re-boost” treatment promises to rejuvenate your skin.
342 Sukhumvit Soi 63 (Ekkamai), 085-047-4466. Open daily 9am-8pm
THE HIGH SPA
REVEAL WAX SALON
3
2/F, The Ninth Tower Grand Rama 9, Ratchadaphisek Rd., 089-697-9151. MRT Phra Ram 9. Open daily 10am-9pm
REVEAL WAX SALON
Tucked amid the buzzing Thonglor Soi 13 neighborhood, this waxing salon prides itself on its exacting hygeine standards and the quality of its wax. There’s a choice of either Australian “premium” wax or French “luxury” wax, as well as hot or cold treatments depending on your personal preference. With a bohemian, homey atmosphere, the salon also ensures you get bang for your buck, and welcomes men as well as women.
Y SPOTLIGHT
261 Thonglor Soi 13, 02-712-8209. Open Tue-Sun 10am-8pm
4
TEN TEN HAIR NAIL AND SPA
As its modern take on Morroccan decoration implies, Ten Ten is all about making you—or more specifically, your nails—feel like royalty. If you don’t believe us, try sitting down on one of their Crystal Pipe System nail spa chairs, worth a whopping B240,000 each. The nail products used are also nothing short of the best, coming from well established brands such as OPI, Joico and Guinot.
593/2 Sukhumvit Rd. (Between sois 31/3 and 33), 02-259-3510, 084-929-1010. BTS Phrom Phong. Open daily 9am-8pm
Wat Pho
Famous as both the home of the 46-meter-long reclining Buddha and as a center of traditional massage, it even offers courses to learn for yourself. Sanamchai Rd., Phra Nakhon. 02-255-4771, Tha Thien Pier. Open daily 8am-6pm. B100. www.watpomassage.com
DERMASTER
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GUIDE
PROPERTY
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NOBLE PLOENCHIT With an expected completion date of January 2017, this high-rise condo by the Noble property group is a rare new residential development for one of Bangkok’s best shopping and dining neighborhoods (see Exploring, page 18). At 51 stories, the sleek minimalist tower is the tallest building in the area, situated in four rai (6,400 sq meters) of private gardens. Units range from 40-sq-meter studios to grand 245-sqmeter duplexes. Starting at B10.9 million. Sales office at 16/F, Park Ventures Ecoplex, 02-251-9955. www.noblehome.com
Hot Spots
1
LUXURY SERVICED RESIDENCES
RITZ-CARLTON RESIDENCES, MAHANAKHON TOWER
Located in the Mahanakhon Tower, which on completion will be Bangkok’s tallest building, these Ritz-Carlton-branded apartments were designed in collaboration with London’s renowned David Collins Studio. What’s more, the developer even claims to have sold Bangkok’s most expensive ever penthouse at a staggering B480 million. Units left start at B43 million (120-280 sq meters) and go right up to B358 million (350-850 sq meters). Where: Downtown Bangkok Estimated completion date: 2015
2
CANAPAYA RESIDENCES, LANDMARK WATERFRONT
Rooms start at approximately B9 million in this luxurious Rama III condo, with the highest room costing a dizzying B210 million. Units come with one-four bedrooms, ranging in size from 45502 sq meters. The condo is projected to finish construction by Q3 2017, and will include facilities such as a library, sauna, Jacuzzi and sky lounge. The development even has a private marina for residents. Where: Bangkok Riverside Estimated completion date: Q3 2017
3
MAGNOLIAS RATCHADAMRI
Located right in the heart of Bangkok, this impressive skyscraper has residences starting at approximately B10 million (48-60sq meters), while the most expensive units cost over B90 million (250-360sq meters). Inside the same development, you’ll also find the five-star Waldorf Astoria Hotel, designed by Hong Kong architect Andre Fu.
Where: Downtown Bangkok Estimated completion date: 2017
4
MANDARIN ORIENTAL RESIDENCES, ICON SIAM
While there are no exact prices on rooms at the moment, we do know the approximate sizes for these lavish residences, which will range from 132-690 sq meters. With a planned completion date of 2018, they’ll be part of Icon Siam, the latest super-mall from the owners of Siam Paragon (BTS Siam) and The Emporium (BTS Phrom Phong), so residences will have the added benefit of plenty of luxury boutiques on their doorstep. More traditional facilities include an infinityedged pool, a golf simulator and a fitness center.
Where: Bangkok Riverside Estimated completion date: 2017
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SUKHOTHAI RESIDENCES
Designed by Kerry Hill, the architect responsible for the Discovery Bay in Hong Kong and The Sukhothai Hotel in Bangkok, this new residential project is the epitome of luxurious cityliving. It offers a 24-hour concierge service as well as room service provided by The Sukhothai Hotel’s restaurants. The spacious rooms start at 88 sq meters (B30 million) and go to over 1,000-sq-meter, multifloored penthouses (B487 million). CANAPAYA
Y SPOTLIGHT
Where: Bangkok Riverside Project is completed and ready to move in.
Baan Mai Khao (Phuket) Standing on the edge of Phuket’s Mai Khao beach, on the quiet Northern end of the island, this luxury condo was awarded Best Condo Development in Phuket at the 2014 Thailand Property Awards. The 206 resort-style, low-rise units (starting at B13.5 million) are spread across nine buildings, with a swimming pool stretching throughout the site. There’s also another beachside swimming pool surrounded by a large, multi-purpose lawn. Expected completion date: Q3 2015 1685. www.sansiri.com/baanmaikhao
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Yaowarat Rd.
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Main road
2 Chatuchak Market
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BTS (Sukhumvit Line)
3 Vimanmek Mansion
!2 Central Rail Station (Hua Lamphong)
BTS (Silom Line)
4 Anantasamakhom Throne Hall
!3 Lumphini Park
MRT
5 Khao San Road
!4 Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre
Airport Rail Link (ARL)
6 National Museum
!5 Siam Paragon
River/Klong (canal)
7 Grand Palace / Temple of The Emerald Buddha
!6 CentralWorld and Zen
8 Wat Pho
!7 Bangkok Art and Culture Centre
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FIND OUT THE LATEST NEWS ON THAILAND AT WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM AND FACEBOOK.COM/WHERETHAILAND
36 W H E R E T H A I L AND I MA RCH 2 0 1 5
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GUIDE
NAVIGATE
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Essential Tips TRANSPORTATION & MONEY AIRPORT LINK
TUK-TUKS
BANKING HOURS
The Airport Rail Link (ARL) is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to get to and from Suvarnabhumi Airport, especially for those traveling light. There are two types of train: Express Line and City Line. The ARL Express Line runs from Suvarnabhumi Airport to either Phaya Thai (connecting to the BTS) or Makkasan stations (10-minute walk to MRT Petchaburi), and takes 20 minutes. The City Line stops at six stations and takes around 40 minutes. Thai Airways passengers boarding the Express Line can check in their bags at Makkasan station. One-way fares are B15-B45 for City Line and B150 for the Express Line. More information at www.srtet.co.th/en
Tuk-tuks are a noisy but fun way of getting around Bangkok, not to mention great photo opportunities. However, they are no guarantee of beating the infamous traffic and you should agree on a price before getting in. Haggle hard but be wary of any cheap offers if you don’t want an unexpected trip to a tailor or gem store.
Banking hours are generally from 8:30am-3:30pm, Monday through Friday except on public holidays and bank holidays. Banks in malls open daily, 10am-8pm.
TAXIS In Bangkok metered taxis are readily available and very affordable, with fares starting from B35 for the first two kilometers. Despite their many colors, there’s no difference in prices and service. Some drivers speak limited English, so do get your destination written down in Thai to avoid any miscommunication. Taxis sometimes try to negotiate a price. Make sure to only pay the metered price. There are now also a number of mobile phone applications and services for those who want to hail a cab without having to hit the streets. The three main apps are Easy Taxi (www.easytaxi.com/th), Grab Taxi (grabtaxi.com/bangkok-thailand) and Uber (www.uber.com/cities/bangkok). All of these are in English language and charge a fee on top of the meter price.
ATMs are very common in Bangkok and can be found in most areas of Thailand, often located outside 7-Eleven stores. You should easily be able to use overseas cards to withdraw money.
VAT REFUNDS Visitors to Thailand who make purchases of goods valued B5,000 or over from stores displaying the “VAT REFUND FOR TOURISTS” sign are eligible to receive a refund of the VAT paid on the item. At the time you purchase the item present your passport and ask the sales assistant at the store to complete the VAT Refund Application for Tourists form, attaching the original tax invoices to the form. Then at the airport, and before you check-in, present your goods and the refund form to customs officers. After checkin and immigration, proceed to the VAT Refund Office in the departure lounge. Refund amounts under B30,000 will be made in cash (Thai Baht) or by bank draft or credited to your credit card account. Refunds over B30,000 will be made by bank draft or credited to your credit card account.
SKYTRAIN/UNDERGROUND The BTS skytrain stops at Bangkok’s main districts and gives you a bird’s eye view of the city. There are two main lines: the Silom line, which runs from across the river in Bang Wa to National Stadium next to MBK Shopping Centre; and the Sukhumvit line, which runs from Soi Bearing in the eastern part of the city along Sukhumvit before heading up north to Mo Chit station by the Chatuchak Market. Siam is the interchange station between the two lines. Fares are B15-52. Unlimited day passes are B130. The underground, or MRT, is one line but has an extensive reach, from Hua Lamphong train station on the outskirts of Chinatown, down through the main Central Business District before turning North and heading up Ratchadapisek Road past Chatuchak Market and ending at Bang Sue station. Fares are B16-B40. There are three interchange stations: (1) BTS Asoke—MRT Sukhumvit, (2) BTS Sala Daeng— MRT Silom and (3) BTS Mo Chit—MRT Chatuchak. Tickets can be bought for individual journeys, or you can get special one-day tourist passes or tickets that cover a specified number of trips. For more information, go to www.bts.co.th and www. bangkokmetro.co.th. Note that the BTS and MRT use different ticketing systems.
ATMS
TUK-TUKS
CANAL BOATS While Bangkok used to be the Venice of the East, there is now only really one canal (klong) still used as a means of getting around. Klong Saen Saep canal has a ferry service that runs daily from Bang Kapi in the Eastern suburbs to Phu Khao Thong or the Golden Mount in the heart of the Old Town (Rattanakosin Island), stopping off at various piers along the way. Be warned though, the boats don’t wait long at the piers, making getting on and off rather nerve-wracking (and physically challenging). And, due to the unsavory nature of the canal water, any picturesque view is blocked by sheets of tarpaulin to prevent splashing. Fares are B9-B19.
EXPRESS RIVER BOATS These fast and frequent ferries along the Chao Phraya River are a great way to get a different perspective on the city, as well as a good option for getting to many of the temples and palaces built along the river. The main Sathorn (Central) pier is located by BTS Saphan Taksin with boats heading upstream from here and stopping off at numerous piers all the way to Nonthaburi. Fares range from B15-B42 depending on distance. You can also opt for a tourist ticket (B150), which allows one-day unlimited travel and comes with a guide booklet to some of the leading tourist attractions accessible from the river. From Sathorn (Central) Pier, you can also catch free ferries to many riverside hotels and Asiatique.
ESSENTIAL NUMBERS 1 EMERGENCY SERVICES (FIRE BRIGADE, POLICE) 191 2 AIRPORT RAIL LINK 02-308-5600. airportraillink.railway.co.th 3 BANGKOK MASS TRANSIT SYSTEM (BTS) 02-617 6000 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bts.co.th 4 BTS TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER 02-617-7340-1 (daily: 8am-8pm). www.bts.co.th 5 BANGKOK METRO (MRT) 02-624-5200 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bangkokmetro.co.th 6 CHAO PHRAYA EXPRESS BOAT CALL CENTER 02-623-6001-3 (6am-7pm). www.chaophrayaexpressboat.com 7 SUVARNABHUMI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 02-132-1888. www.suvarnabhumiairport.com 8 TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND (TAT) 1672 from Thai numbers. www.tourismthailand.org 9 TOURIST POLICE 24-HOUR CALL CENTER 1155 from Thai numbers or 02-250-5500 MARCH 2015 I W HERE THA ILA N D 37
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21 THINGS WE LOVE about Bangkok
1
6
!5
8
9
!6
1 Getting a tension-relieving Thai 6 Sipping on the barrel-aged cock- !2 Spending an evening at Asiatique, !7 Stocking up on Thai handicraft massage at the spiritual home of the art, Wat Pho, also home to the 46-meter-long reclining Buddha. See page 34.
tails at Bangkok’s oldest jazz institution, Bamboo Bar, which recently received a stunning renovation. See page 24.
the giant riverside development filled with shops, restaurants, bars and cultural performances. See page 21.
souvenirs from across the country at OTOP Heritage. See page 32.
!8 Taking in the contemporary art !3 Tasting the legendary Chinese exhibitions at 100 Tonson, the beauti-
2 Drinking in the cityscape view from 7 Descending the steps to Mag- stewed pork knuckle with rice at Kao ful central gallery designed by Christhe al fresco bar of Octave on top of the Bangkok Marriott Sukhumvit Hotel. See page 29.
gie Choo’s, the sultry Silom nightspot styled on Shanghai opium dens. See page 28.
Kha Mu Charoen Sang Silom. See page 21.
tian Liaigre. See page 31.
!9 Booking a seat at the counter of !4 Hanging out with Thonglor’s cool Sushi Hinata, the hottest new omak-
3 Checking out the latest art exhibi- 8 Sitting ringside at Rajadamnoen crowd at the new whiskey bar Black ase-service sushi restaurant in town. tion at Jim Thompson House, one of the most atmospheric museums in the city. See page 32.
Stadium, the official home of championship Muay Thai bouts. See page 4.
Amber Thonglor Social Club. See page 22.
See page 12.
@0 Admiring the work of established 9 Catching a long-tail boat upriver to !5Sampling the modern yet authenti- and emerging Thai and international
4 Learning how to make authentic Baan Silapin, the century-old wooden cally flavored Thai food of Benjarong, artists at the Bangkok Art & Culture Thai dishes with one of the country’s top chefs at Blue Elephant cooking school and restaurant. See page 25.
house where Thai puppet shows are performed daily. See page 5.
where the head chef trained at Copenhagen’s one-Michelin-star Kiin Kiin. See page 8.
!0 Checking out the cool local gal5 Chowing down on street food on lery scene on Charoenkrung Road !6 Grabbing a beer and shopping for Sukhumvit Soi 38, from Northern khaosoi (curried noodles) to Chinese doughnuts with pandan custard. See page 27.
vintage bargains at the new Rod Fai Night Market. See page 32.
See page 20.
Centre. See page 31.
@1 Heading down south to Phuket Town, where the beautiful Sino-Portuguese architecture has recently been smartened up. See page 16.
!1 Shopping for antiques, Oriental artwork and jewelry at O.P. Place and Garden. See page 21.
where in the world Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com ASIA Thailand, Singapore, Hong Kong
UNITED STATES Alaska & Yukon, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Georgia, Indianapolis, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Minneapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, New York, Northern Virginia, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, South Florida, St. Louis, Washington D.C.
CANADA Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Mississauga, Muskoka/Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Budapest, London, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg
38 W H E R E T H AILAND I MA RCH 2 0 1 5
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Where to find Hotels in Bangkok The AETAS Bangkok All Seasons Bangkok Siam Aloft Bangkok Sukhumvit 11 Amari Watergate Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa Arnoma Baan Noppawong Bally’s Studio Suites Banyan Tree Bangkok Best Western Sukhumvit Cabochon Hotel & Residence Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao Centara Grand at Central World Centara Hotels & Resorts Chatrium Hotel Riverside Bangkok Conrad Bangkok Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park Dusit Thani Bangkok Emporium Suites Eastin Grand Hotel Sathorn Four Points by Sheraton Four Seasons Bangkok GLOW Pratunam Grand Hyatt Erawan Grand Mercure Park Avenue Grand Millennium Sukhumvit Holiday Inn Silom Holiday Inn Bangkok Sukhumvit 22 Hotel Muse Imperial Queens Park InterContinental Bangkok JW Marriott Bangkok The Landmark Bangkok Le Fenix Sukhumvit LIT Bangkok Luxx Majestic Grande Mandarin Oriental Bangkok Marriott Sukhumvit 57 Mercure & Ibis Bangkok Siam
The Metropolitan Bangkok Millennium Hilton Miracle Grand Convention Montien Riverside Novotel Bangkok Ploenchit Sukhumvit Novotel Bangkok Siam Square Novotel Bangkok Impact Oaks Bangkok Sathorn The Okura Prestige Bangkok Park Plaza Sukhumvit Pathumwan Princess The Peninsula Bangkok Phachara Suites Plaza Athénée Bangkok Pullman Bangkok King Power Radisson Blu Plaza Radisson Suites Bangkok Ramada Encore Bangkok Ramada Plaza Menam Riverside Renaissance Bangkok Ratchaprasong Riva Surya Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers Siam Kempinski Shangri-La Bangkok Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit The Berkeley Hotel The Continent Hotel Bangkok The Davis Bangkok The Eugenia Hotel & Spa The Siam Siam @ Siam Design Hotel & Spa Sivatel Bangkok Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit Sofitel So Bangkok The St. Regis Bangkok The Sukhothai Bangkok Swissotel Le Concorde Swissotel Nai Lert Park VIE Hotel Bangkok ViVa Garden
where Thailand
Hotels in Other Provinces
Shopping Malls
Anantara Rasananda Koh Phangan Villa
CentralWorld
Resort & Spa
The Emporium Department Complex
Chandara Resort
Peninsula Plaza
Conrad Koh Samui
The River City Shopping Complex
Dara Samui Beach Resort & Spa Villa Dusit D2 Baraquda Pattaya
Others
InterContinental Samui Baan Taling Ngam
Uber Black limousines
JW Marriott Khao Lak Resort & Spa
TAT Tourist Information Counter at
JW Marriott Phuket Resort & Spa
Suvarnabhumi Airport (arrivals)
Le Méridien Koh Samui Resort & Spa
Chao Phraya Express Boats
Renaissance Koh Samui Resort & Spa
Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC)
Renaissance Phuket Resort & Spa
Blue Elephant Restaurant
Santiburi Resort
Devarana Spa
Sheraton Krabi
Dean & Deluca
Shangri-La Chiang Mai
Elemis Spa at The St. Regis Bangkok
Sheraton HuaHin Resort & Spa
The Kiwi Bangkok Sports Pub & Grill
Tamarind Village Chiang Mai
The Australian Pub & BBQ
Serviced Apartments
Yunomori Onsen & Spa
Adelphi Service Apartments
La Grande Perle
Adelphi Suites Bangkok
Kuppadeli
Ascott Sathorn Bangkok
Kalpapruek
Asoke Residence Sukhumvit
Jim Thompson Restaurant
Cape House Serviced Apartments
Viva & Aviv
Courtyard Marriott
Mandarin Orientel At Paragon
Pizza Romana Pala
Grand Mercure Bangkok Asoke Residence Marriott Executive Apartments Sathorn Vista Marriott Executive Apartments Sukhumvit Park Mayfair Bangkok Marriott Executive Apartment
Y Where reaches over 100,000 visitors each month. For sales enquiries, contact where@asia-city.co.th or call 02-624-9638.
Natural Ville Executive Residences, Bangkok Oakwood Residence Sukhumvit 24 Oriental Residence Bangkok Somerset Lakeview Sukkhumvit 16 The River Condominium
W Hotel Bangkok The Westin Grande Sukhumvit
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