Where® Thailand April 2015 by Where Thailand

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APRIL 2015 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO ®

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Chinatown Guide Best Thai Restaurants

SIAMESE SUMMER

Your complete guide to celebrating Songkran in style YOUR ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO BANGKOK’S HOT SPOTS COVER_April_2015_2.indd 1

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CONTENTS where

l THAILAND l APRIL 2015

The Guide BANGKOK 23 DINING

The breakfast cafes worth getting up early for, plus our favorite restaurants with incredible views.

26 NIGHTLIFE The riverside's coolest watering holes and five of the very best cocktail lounges.

21 REASONS WE LOVE BANGKOK IN APRIL

28 ARTS+ATTRACTIONS

How to beat the heat during Thailand's hottest month.

The hottest exhibitions in Bangkok's galleries this month.

DINING

29 SHOPS+SERVICES

10 THE NEW WAVE OF THAI

FINE DINING

Discover the many different faces of contemporary Thai fine dining at these amazing restaurants.

AROUND THAILAND

30 HEALTH+WELLNESS Check in to Bangkok's best spas for organic therapies that are out of this world.

14 MAKE A SPLASH

Where to celebrate the Thai New Year across the country, from Phuket to Chiang Mai.

From traditional markets to the swankiest shopping mall in town, here's where to stock up on fashion and souvenirs.

31 PROPERTY

16 NEWS

Brand new beach-side villas across the country.

Beach parties, new hotels and cultural events from across the country.

32 NAVIGATE

EXPLORING

Essential tips on getting around.

20 CHINATOWN At the bustling gateway to old Bangkok, you'll find a warren of intriguing back alleys and Taoist temples.

ALSO INSIDE 34 21 THINGS WE LOVE

20 General Manager Andrew Hiransomboon Managing Editor/Product Director Grégoire Glachant Managing Editor Oliver Irvine Deputy Editor Carl Dixon Regional Marketing Manager Pavida Chitprasertsuk Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Art Director Dechart Sangsawang Senior Designer Panita Thiraphapong

Staff Writer Pinnyada Tanitnon Contributors Vasachol Quadri, Monruedee Jansuttipan, Kanin Srimaneekulroj, Lily Kittisrikangwan, Tewit Phanitprachaya Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Marketing Executive, Creative Services Puttipat Teerakawongsakul Distribution Executive Suda Angsuputiphant

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP | EXECUTIVE Vice President, Operations Donna Kessler Vice President, Operational Innovation Russ Leseberg Director Of Marketing Lynn Basinger

MVP | NATIONAL SALES Director Of National Sales And Custom Publishing Anthony Karwoski National Sales Managers Jennifer O'loughlin, Julie Humeas, Monica Weeks, Wanda Garcia-Fetherston

E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris. Com

MVP | CARTOGRAPHY AND CIRCULATION General Manager, Where Maps Christopher Huber

Cover by Panita Thiraphapong

MORRIS COMUNICATIONS Chairman & Ceo William S. Morris III President William S. Morris IV

Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 22/F, Silom Center 2 Silom Road, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: where@asia-city.co.th facebook.com/wherethailand

National Traffic Coordinator Leleah Robinson

www.wherethailand.com

MVP | CREATIVE Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson Editorial Director, Visitor Guides Don Hoffman

Design Director Jane Frey Editorial Director, Custom Publishing Linda Chase Creative Coordinator Beverley Mandelblatt

MVP | TECHNOLOGY & MANUFACTURING Director Of Manufacturing Donald Horton E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.Com

@where_thailand

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HOT DATES

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APR 11-14

SONGKRAN PARTIES

Songkran (see page 6) marks Thailand’s biggest party of the year, and throughout Bangkok people celebrate in style. Head over to S20 Factory (RCA, Soi Soonvijai, Rama 9 Rd. MRT Phetburi) to join PEPSI S2O Songkran’s Official Electronic Dance Music Festival, a four-day EDM festival kicking off at 4pm daily with DJs including Krewella and Armada Music’s Andrew Rayel. Tickets cost from B1,500 to a staggering B100,000, available through thaiticketmajor.com. On Apr 11, 1pm, W Bangkok’s (206 Sathorn Rd., 02-344-4000. BTS Chong Nonsi) annual Songkran Splash Away party kicks off at the five-star hotel’s pool, in collaboration with local party collective Kolour. Tickets are B750 (two free drinks before 3pm) available at bit.ly/1E2q9iq or email bf.wbangkok@whotels.com. And from Apr 10-12, G-Circuit’s legendary yearly gay festival, Song Kran 9, features two day-time pool sessions (starting 2pm) followed by three late-night parties (starting 8pm) at three locations: Bangkok Convention Center (Centara Grand at CentralWorld, 999/99 Rama 1 Rd., 02-100-1234. BTS Chid Lom), Radission Blu Plaza Hotel (489 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-302-3333) and Sofitel So (2 North Sathorn Rd., 02-204-0000, MRT Lumpini).

APR 23-MAY 4

APR 22-23

APR 4-5, 23-26, APR 30-MAY 3

APR 13-15

The number one local mime act Baby Mime celebrates its ten-year anniversary with the Baby (no) Mime Show, featuring live performances every Thu-Mon for two weeks, with extra matinee rounds on the weekends at 2pm. Tickets are B650, available at www.showbooking.com and Happening Shop at the BACC (3/F). More information at 088-462-2669.

The massive bi-annual Bangkok International Gift Fair and Bangkok International Houseware Fair 2015 brings together the work of some of the best Thai craftsmen and designers, from up and comers to established names. Shop for household products, decorative items, handicrafts and various other lifestyle products from over 1,600 booths.

8pm. Pridi Banomyong Institute, B-Floor Room, Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02381-3860

10am-9pm. BITEC, 88 Bang Na-Trat Rd., 02-749-3939. BTS Bang Na

Launching this month is the stage adaptation of the Thai musical-drama film Homrong The Musical (The Overture), Thailand’s selection for the Best Foreign Language Film at the Oscars in 2004. Inspired by the story of Luang Pradit Piroh, the play follows the life of Thai palace musician Sorn through the peak and the decline of Thai classical music. Tickets available through thaiticketmajor.com. No English subtitles.

To highlight the traditonal side of Songkran, Water Festival 2015, features cultural performances, concerts, traditional food fairs and Songkran-themed games and activities at seven riverside venues: Wat Pho, Wat Arun, Wat Prayoon, Wat Kalayanamitr and community malls Tha Maharaj, Yod Piman Riverwalk and Asiatique. Update information at tinyurl.com/klz23tp.

SILENT TREATMENT

HOME COMFORTS

MUSICAL HERITAGE

TASTE OF TRADITION

7:30pm (weekend matinee rounds at 2:30pm). Siam Pikanet Theater, 7/F Siam Square One, Rama 1 Rd. BTS Siam

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ADVERTORIAL

AT YOUR SERVICE

The Thailand Elite Card offers its users special privileges that money alone can’t buy. Members of Thailand Elite are privy to a world of exclusive services, from its connections to help them do business to special privileges at the country’s top hospitality, health and leisure facilities. The Thailand Elite card ensures your stays in Thailand will always be stress-free.

HEALTH BENEFITS

As a Thailand Elite member, you will be able to take advantage of the excellent quality of Thailand’s leading medical institutions. Thailand Elite has partnered with the country’s world-renowned hospitals and health facilities to ensure our cardholders receive a complimentary premium annual health check-up throughout the duration of their membership.

LEISURE PRIVILEGES

Our huge list of leisure partners across the country provides exclusive arrangements for Thailand Elite members. Enjoy complimentary green fees at Thailand’s world-class golf courses 24 times a year, up to 24 free treatments per year at five-star spas, and discounts at luxurious fine-dining restaurants across the country.

ANYTIME ASSISTANCE

Our Member Contact Center is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week and operates in several languages. Whatever situation you face, Thailand Elite’s operators are on call to provide complete support and make necessary arrangements regarding your membership. Just call +66(0)2 352 3000.

OUR MEMBERSHIP PACKAGES INDIVIDUAL MEMBERSHIP • Membership validity: 20 years • Membership fee: B2 million (exc. VAT) • Spa and golf: 24 times per calendar year • Health Check: 1 time per calendar year • Unlimited limousine service THAILAND EASY ACCESS MEMBERSHIP • Membership validity: 5 years • Membership fee: B500,000 (inc. VAT) • Limousine service: 24 times per calendar year

UNRIVALED PRIVILEGES

As a government-backed program, Thailand Elite can offer access to legal privileges that no other company can offer. We ensure our members are treated as valued friends of the country, granting them access to a five-year visa and VIP immigration treatment, on top of privileged access to government offices. Membership confers the right to stay in Thailand with a renewable five-year Privilege Entry Visa, extendable for one year instead of the usual 90 days, without the need to leave the country. Your own Elite Personal Liaison Officer is also at hand to streamline regulatory processes, whether it’s facilitating your work permit application or helping you obtain a Thai driver’s license.

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VIP TREATMENT

From the moment they step foot in Thailand, holders of a Thailand Elite card are treated as extra-special guests of the country. At both Suvarnabhumi and Phuket airports, dedicated Elite Personal Assistants escort you through passport control with fast track immigration benefits eliminating the need for regular immigration formalities. What’s more, for every international flight you make, Thailand Elite offers complimentary return limousine airport transfers to and from your home or hotel, whether it’s in Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Phuket or Samui.

To discover more about Thailand Elite membership, please call our Member Contact Center on +66(0)2 352 3000 or email info@thailandelite.com. www.thailandelite.com

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SUMMER SPECIAL

21 REASONS WE LOVE BANGKOK IN APRIL

So you’ve been to the Grand Palace and almost died from the heat. April in Bangkok can be one seriously sticky time of year, but there are plenty of ways to escape the soaring temperatures and make the most of being in the city. Here’s how best to enjoy Thailand’s hottest month.

1. HAPPY NEW YEAR April is the month of Songkran, or Thai New Year. Traditionally, locals will spare some time to visit their relatives and loved ones to perform a ritual known as rot naam dam hua, where they sprinkle jasmine-scented, rose petal-infused water onto the hands of their elders as a form of respect. Once enough water touches their hands, the elder relative sprinkles it back onto the heads of the younger generation. In this ritual, water symbolizes cleansing of bad things, such as grievances, struggles or stress.

2. WATER WARS Over time, the New Year water sprinkling ritual has evolved into a giant three-day water fight, and there are set venues in Bangkok that get seriously wild. On April 13-15, specific roads are closed to traffic to allow for the city’s biggest water fights. Get your water pistol ready and head over to Khao San Road to party on the street with locals and travelers. For something closer to the BTS, join the crowd on Silom Road, where you’re guaranteed to get soaked from head to toe—don’t forget to pack accordingly.

SONGKRAN

3. ICE IN YOUR FOOD Thailand’s classic summer dish makes its reappearance every April. Khao chae consists of rice soaked in cool jasmine water and served with crushed ice, and is arguably Thailand’s only true royal dish, created in 1910 as a cooling summer treat for King Rama V. The time-consuming preparation means the dish is rarely consumed other than from late-March to May, along with side dishes like sweet minced pork and deep-fried shrimp paste balls. Try it at Ruen Urai (www. ruen-urai.com, 02-266-8268/72), but get there early because portions are limited.

4. GAY TIMES One of Asia’s biggest gay parties has descended on Bangkok every April for nine years in a row. Song Kran 9 hosted by G-Circuit takes place from April 10-12 at Centara Grand, Raddison Blu and Sofitel So hotels, featuring dance and pool parties, 16 sexy gogo dancers and nine DJs. Tickets are available at the door, but get them in advance for a discount price at www.gcircuit.com.

5. MINTY-FRESH TREATMENTS If your feet are burning from walking around, head for a revitalizing foot therapy. We recommend Devarana Spa (www.devaranaspa. com, 02-200-9999) for the Pilipinas Island Hideaway treatment, which includes an icecream scrub using the Philippines’ famous ube ice cream (made from purple yam). Also try the Mint Foot Therapy (30 min) at the Opium Spa by Sodashi at the beautiful Siam Hotel (www.thesiamhotel.com, 02-2066999), which involves a Himalayan salt polish and mint foot cream with lavender, peppermint and arnica oils.

6. ICY TREATS Whether its an extravagant sundae at Crumb (3/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-160-5630), towering Korean crushed ice volcano at Seobinggo (Siam Square Soi 7, 086-394-4245) or traditional Thai coconut ice cream sold on the street (try Suanplu Soi 8 or Charoenkrung Soi 43), there are plenty of delicious cool desserts not to be missed in Bangkok.

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FLOW HOUSE

DEVARANA SPA

VOGUE LOUNGE

W HOTEL

7. OUTDOOR AIR-CON

9. POOL PARTIES

11. SURFING IN THE CITY

It might be the hottest month of the year, but you can still dress up and enjoy a night outdoors by heading to Bangkok’s swankiest lounge bars. At Vogue Lounge (www.fb.com/ vogueloungebangkok, 02-001-0697), sit out on the vast Art Deco-style terrace and enjoy immaculately crafted small plates like onsen egg yolk with sea urchin espuma and pork knuckle stew. Alternatively, head to Zuma (G/F, St. Regis Hotel, 159 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-252-4707), the international brand of Japanese lounges, for some of the most inventive sushi in town.

Pool party season in Bangkok lasts 365 days a year. Join the Kolour Krew on the WET deck area at W Bangkok (www.whotelbangkok.com, 02-344-4000) on Apr 11 for the Songkran Splashaway party, or head to Sofitel So (www.sofitel-so-bangkok.com, 02-624-0000) on Apr 25 for its monthly lineup of guest DJs by the pool.

The big attraction at urban water park, Flow House (www.flowhousebangkok.com, 02108-5210) is a wave machine that lets you try your hand at standup surfing and bodyboarding. Entry is completely free, while use of the wave machine is charged by the hour including equipment and instruction. Other facilities include a plunge pool, ping pong, foosball, and an on-site cafe.

8. ICE-COLD CRAFT BEER Nothing feels more refreshing than an icecold beer after a day of exploring the city. Don’t just settle for the lagers in 7-Eleven. Instead, head over to Soi Ari’s super-hip Summer Street food truck (Ari Soi 2) to sample local craft beer Golden Coins. Or if you’re around Ekkamai, Mikkeller beer bar (26 Ekkamai Soi 10. 02-381-9891) has probably the best selection of taps in the city.

10. ESCAPING THE CITY HEAT Get out of town and splash around with the elephants just three hours from Bangkok. The conservation-focused Elephant’s World (www.elephantsworld.org, 034514-800) in Kanchanaburi province lets you feed, play and even swim with elephants in a conscientious environment where the elephants’ well-being comes first. Call ahead or book online as space is limited.

12. REFRESHING WATERFALLS Take advantage of nature and go for a hike to the Erawan Falls in Kanchanaburi, dubbed one of the most beautiful waterfalls in Thailand. It’s about 1,500 meters high and drops down into seven levels before pouring beautifully into large emerald-green ponds. It’s a three-hour drive to get there. We recommend you stay overnight at www.thefloathouseriverkwai.com.

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SUMMER SPECIAL

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13. SUMMER COCKTAILS This refreshing cocktail from WTF (www. wtfbangkok.com, 02-662-6246), one of Bangkok’s best-loved indie bars combines all things summery and fresh: home-infused gin, lime juice, mint, cucumber and sugar. Hidden in an alleyway, the hole-inthe-wall bar and art gallery always draws in a laid-back crowd of expats and locals.

14. COLD-BREW COFFEE Combat your jet-lag with a cold-brew coffee served on ice at one of city’s coolest coffee shops. Rocket (www.rocketcoffeebar.com) offers a tasty, earthy cold brew with hints of chocolate; I+D x Style (Siam Center, 02-678-5000), filters its cold brew in a French press and with select infusions. Roots (www.fb.com/RootsBkk, 088-1905950) offers a single-origin cold brew made in a custom drip tower.

I+D X STYLE

15. FETAL THERAPIES CENTRAL EMBASSY

Free your worries and float mindlessly in a pool of epsom salt water at the Theta State Float Center (thetastatefloat.com, 02-261-7943). Each floating pod is soundproof and lightproof to provide total sensory deprivation as your body slows down almost to the point of sleep.

17. WATER PARKS Get out of the city for some family fun at the Black Mountain Water Park (www.blackmountainwaterpark.com, 032-618-444) in Hua Hin, which boasts nine different slides and seven swimming pools. Float around on a tube on the lazy river while the children play at the kid’s adventure pool. Alternatively, Pattaya is home to the Cartoon Network Amazone (www.cartoonnetworkamazone.com, 038-237-707), where you’ll find plenty of children-friendly activities.

18. ROOFTOP BARS Escape the heat by heading to the skies. Our favorite bars to enjoy the cool and spectacular views are The Speakeasy (www.hotelmusebangkok.com, 02-630-4000). Above Eleven (www.aboveeleven.com, 083-542-1111), and Red Sky (see page 25).

CARTOON NETWORK AMAZONE

ABOVE ELEVEN

19. NAHM MAPROW

21. LAVENDER LOTIONS

Dehydrated? Forget the sports drinks and go for fresh coconut water straight out of its shell. Vendors cut the tops off whole fruit for you to enjoy at its freshest. They’re really easy to find, but be wary of any coconut pre-bottled—vendors tend to add a lot of sugar to those.

Sunburnt? Take care of your tired skin with some lavender cooling lotions. Try Erb’s Lavender Lush (www.erbasia.com), a formula loaded with lavender, water and essential oils to help soothe the skin and restore moisture overnight. Another great local brand is Harnn (www.harnn.com). Go for its Cymbopogen Body Souffle, which has a very light formula combining water lily, hibiscus, lavender and lemongrass oils. (both available at 4/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd. 02-610-8000. BTS Siam)

20. VIP CINEMAS Save your tanning for the islands. Right now you’re in the city, which is the perfect excuse to stay indoors and enjoy Bangkok’s worldleading VIP cinemas. The most luxurious is at Central Embassy (BTS Phloen Chit) while the newly-opened Emquatier (BTS Phrom Phong) is nearly as decadent.

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DINING

THE NEW WAVE OF THAI FINE DINING

BO.LAN Chef couple Bo and Dylan make all their Thai food from scatch, including the curry pastes, using only the best ingredients. Their traditional style jazzed up with a few modern plating touches, has earned them global recognition. We recommend the Bo.lan balance, a degustation menu that regularly changes to reflect seasonal products.

There’s more to local cuisine than street food, and these are the restaurants taking Bangkok’s culinary scene to new heights.

24 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-260-2961-2. Open TueSun 6-11pm; Thu-Sun noon-2:30pm. BTS Thong Lo

PASTE Chef Jason Bailey takes inspiration from traditional Thai cuisine, but also makes the most of modern techniques, artful presentation and some personal twists. And what produce! Every mint leaf, every pickled chili is bursting with flavor. You can tell it’s all made from scratch and, where possible, from locally-sourced ingredients (also see page 22). 120/6 Sukhumvit Soi 49 (opposite Samitivej Hospital), 02-392-4313. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-midnight PASTE

estaurants specializing in authentic Thai flavors served in a fine-dining setting have boomed. In fact, at this year’s Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, the regional arm of Pellegrino’s World’s 50 Best, three local places serving elegantly plated Thai recipes with no compromises for foreign palates managed to scoop top placings: Bo.lan (No. 37), Nahm (No. 7) and Issaya (No. 39). But they are just the tip of the iceberg in a quality Thai-dining boom. From restaurants dedicated to the preservation of century-old recipes, to those who are introducing Thai cuisine to the most experimental international cooking trends, here are the restaurants you need to eat at while in Bangkok.

THE NEW TRADITIONALISTS NAHM David Thompson’s Nahm serves fiery, multicourse set menus that offer devoutly authentic flavors and plenty of choice. We use the word “course” loosely, as this is true, communal Thai-style dining. Try the salad of fresh river prawns with pork and Asian pennywort, and the perfectly balanced coconut and tumeric curry of blue swimmer crab served with kanom jim (traditional Thai rice noodles. Metropolitan, 27 Sathorn Rd., 02-625-3388. Open daily 7-10:30pm; Mon-Fri noon-2pm

ISSAYA Chef Ian Kittichai takes a thought-provoking vibrant approach to traditional Thai cooking by fusing high-quality traditional ingredients with progressive cooking methods to give each dish a delightful twist. 4 Soi Sri Aksorn, Chuaploeng Rd., 02-672-9040. Open Mon-Sun 6-10:30pm. MRT Klong Toey

BENJARONG The food at this signature Thai restaurant for one of Bangkok’s old-guard hotels was given a total revamp by the former head chef at Sra Bua. It’s still devoutly Thai as far as flavors go, but incorporates Euopean slow-cooking methods and is plated with considerate modern touches. The result is highly refined but also satisfyingly authentic. For the best experience, we recommend opting for one of the seasonal tasting menus. Dusit Thani, 946 Silom Rd., 02-200-9000#2345. Open daily 6-10pm; Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm. MRT Silom

BO.LAN

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THE MODERNISTS LE DU

OSHA

SIAM WISDOM

A Thai chef with a degree from the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) powers this inventive Asian restuarant. His dishes focus heavily on local and seasonal produce, which are prepared using modern cooking techniques to produce original and delicious food that clearly evokes Thai flavors while challenging diners’ senses. The wine list is equally exciting, with bottles sourced only from organic producers or boutique importers.

Set in a solemn-looking stone pavilion, this restaurant by Thai celebrity chef Thanintorn Tannawan features fancified versions of Thai classics like papaya salad, as well as more inventive creations that incorporate modern cooking techniques. Its main claim to fame is a version of krapow-nua, a Bangkok street food staple of stir-fried beef with holy basil, here done with wagyu beef. Be sure to try the cocktails, like Osha-Sha— their take on Brazil’s classic Caipirinha.

399/3 Silom Soi 7, 092-919-9969. Open Mon-Sat 6-11pm. BTS Chong Nonsi

99 Wireless Rd., 02-256-6555. Open daily 11am2:30pm, 6pm-midnight

Set in a modern-meets-traditional Thai house, this is one of the rare fine-dining restaurants that is both doing authentic Thai cuisine and helmed by an actual Thai chef. Chumpol Jangprai uses high-quality produce sourced from the best locations, such as shrimp paste from Klong Khon, palm sugar from Petchburi and sturgeon’s roe from the Royal Projects in Northern Thailand. The results are seldom seen dishes like gaeng buan (herbal soup with pork offal) and pla nam pork sausage.

KHAO

66 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-260-7811-2. Open daily noon-2pm, 6-10:30pm

Chef Vichit Mukura, the long-time former head chef of Mandarin Oriental’s Sala Rim Naam, quietly opened this Thai food chef’s table on the same premises as the exclusive Japanese restaurant Yuutaro. The restaurant serves up Thai cuisine with modern presentation and only welcomes small groups of 4-12 people each evening, who can watch the chef working on classic Thai dishes like spicy salad cooked with premium ingredients such as matsusaka beef. 64 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 098-829-8878. Open daily 6:30-11pm

SRA BUA BY KIIN KIIN Sra Bua is the Bangkokian sister of Copenhagen’s Kiin Kiin, which, after David Thompson’s London restaurant Nahm (now in Bangkok), became the second restaurant in the world to receive a Michelin star for cooking Thai food. But this is modern gastronomy, making it very different from the traditional Thai cooking at Nahm. A curry might come with the texture and temperature of ice cream, and bites of lobster can be locked into gelatinous pearls that melt in your mouth with a sip of tom yam broth.

SRA BUA BY KIIN KIIN

LE DU

Lobby/F, Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok, 991/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02-162-9000. Open daily noon-3pm, 6-11pm. BTS Siam

OSHA

KHAO

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DINING

HOT ROD

THE CASUAL EATERIES HOT ROD

SOMTUM DER

SUPANNIGA EATING ROOM

From the same designer behind the Dickensian-themed Iron Fairies (nearby, on Thonglor) and the 1930s Shanghaiinspired Maggie Choo’s (on Silom Road), this small bar and restaurant dishes out a sophisticated menu of creative or rare Thai dishes and elaborate cocktails. Join the dozen happy few who can fit at its circular bar and nibble on Northern-style terrine while sipping on a mix of rum and jackfruit. Room A103, G/F, Park Lane, Sukhumvit Soi 63, 02714-2575. Open daily 5pm-midnight. BTS Ekkamai

EAT (EAT ALL THAI)

SOUL FOOD MAHANAKORN

SOMTUM DER

The restaurant dishes out very potent (double pours, actually) original signature cocktails like the Bun Bang Fai (a mix of tequila, lime, chilli, almond syrup and egg white) as well as a brief menu of perfectly executed Thai regional dishes like gaeng hang lay, (Burmese pork belly curry) and pad krapao made with Australian lamb. This winning combo has seduced those seeking authentic food made with fresh, natural ingredients and served in a comfortable environment.

Yards from the bustle of Silom Road, the restaurant brings typical street food into a modern shop-house setting. The menu focuses on somtam (a spicy Thai papaya salad) and other classic Northeastern dishes. Not as sweet as Bangkokians usually like their somtam, the flavors here are particularly authentic. Do try the pork skewers marinated in coconut milk and the wonderful deep-fried minced pork balls. Their martinis are also a highlight.

56/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-714-7708. Open daily 5:30pm-midnight. BTS Thong Lo

5/5 Sala Daeng Rd., 02-632-4499. Open daily 11am10:30pm. MRT Silom

This is one of the best Thai restaurants in town. Cozy-yet-chic, it serves a menu based on dishes the owner’s grandmother used to cook—Thai food that borrows both from her hometown on the Eastern seaboard, Trat, and where the family now lives, Khon Kaen. Do try the moo cha muang (pork with Guttiferae tree leaves) and pla too tod (deep-fried mackerel), along with the cocktails and mocktails made with intriguing local ingredients. 160/11 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-714-7508. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-11:30pm

EAT (EAT ALL THAI) This casual follow-up to Supanniga (see above) does some of the best home-style Thai food in Bangkok. The menu includes regional specialties from all over Thailand, like big, plump Ayutthaya river shrimps and a green curry fried rice with salted eggs from Chaiya, in Surat Thani. The atmosphere manages to belie the restaurant’s mall location with homey, roughly hewn wooden furniture and quaint ceramic tableware. 2/F, Groove at CentralWorld, Rama 1, 02-251-1230. BTS Siam

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THE CLASSICS BLUE ELEPHANT The flagship branch of the globally-known Thai restaurant brand is housed in a stunning colonial-style mansion with a classic interior of dark rattan furnishings and authentic Asian artifacts. Chef and owner Nooror Somany Steppe and her team serve up royal Thai cuisine with authentic flavor. While more modern Thai restaurans have lately grabbed most column inches, Blue Elephant is still worth a visit for both atmosphere and food. 233 Sathorn Rd., 02-673-9353. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm. BTS Surasak

BUSSARACUM The setting and presentation of the food at this classic Thai fine-dining restaurant are exquisite. Servers in traditional Thai costume and live khim performances complete the old-fashioned dining experience (it claims to be Bangkok’s first upscale Thai restaurant), as do royal cuisine touches like ornate fruit and vegetable carving. Don’t miss the rare, traditional recipes like rhoom (minced pork and shrimp wrapped with egg net), luke tao (shrimp-stuffed mushrooms) and saengwa (grilled prawn salad with deepfried catfish).

RUEN URAI This century-old house outfitted with beautiful antiques is just as stunning outside as inside. Paying homage to the orignal owner, who was a herbal medicine practitioner, the menu incorporates strong herbs and spices such as green peppercorn, wild ginger, galangal and turmeric. Ingredients are of high quality and the curry pastes taste like they’re made from scratch. We’re particularly drawn to the grilled river prawns with spicy galangal dressing and wild boar sautéed with spicy curry and herbs.

SUPANNIGA EATING ROOM

Rose Hotel, 118 Surawong Rd., 02-266-8268/-72. Open daily noon-11pm. BTS Sala Daeng.

BLUE ELEPHANT

1 Si Wiang Rd., 02-266-6312/-6. Open daily 11am-2pm, 5-10:30pm. BTS Surasak

SALA RIM NAAM The signature Thai restaurant of Bangkok’;s most pedigreed hotel serves mild yet authentic flavors, with nods to Royal cuisine and an emphasis on quality ingredients. It’s set on the other side of the river from the main hotel, with a terrace that overlooks the water for al fresco dining. Recommended dishes include goong phad prik daeng (fried prawn with garlic and red chili sauce) and the massamun nuea (Southern-style beef curry with sweet potato and onion). Thai. Mandarin Oriental, 48 Oriental Ave., Charoen Krung Rd., 02-659-9000 ext 7333. Open daily noon-3pm, 5pm-midnight. BTS Saphan Taksin

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where

AROUND THAILAND

WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM

BATHING RITES

CHIANG MAI

PHUKET

MAKE A SPLASH

CHIANG MAI When: Apr 12-14 Where: Roads around Ku Muang canal

Regarded as one of Thailand’s largest Songkran festivals (along with Khon Kaen and Bangkok), Chiang Mai’s Pra We Nee Pii Mai Muang offers the best of both worlds, with Lanna cultural events at sacred temples (such as Phra Sing and Phra That Doi Suthep) and big water fights around the central moat. It all kicks off with a cultural parade on the first day, of which the highlights are the float carrying the sacred Phra Buddha Sihing and the Nang Songkran Chiang Mai beauty pageant. Chiang Mai Metropolitan Office, 053-259-000

Where to celebrate Songkran in the Kingdom NEED TO KNOW • Even though the government has requested that people keep their water splashing to dedicated zones, just be aware that you are seen as a game target anywhere and anytime from Apr 13-17. The only way to guarantee staying dry is to stay indoors. • The smearing of powdered white chalk, traditionally used by monks in rituals, on strangers was common in the past but men should refrain from doing so to women they don’t know. • Spraying water inside shopping malls and on public transport is prohibited. • Get more information about Songkran and updated events across Thailand at www. tourismthailand.org or call 1672

AYUTTHAYA

PHUKET

When: Apr 13-15

Where: Ayutthaya Historic Park

Where: Patong Beach

The former capital city of Siam from the 14th to the 18th century hosts an official Songkran celebration at the park in front of Wihan Phra Mongkhon Bophit. Visitors will get to offer alms to monks, bathe Buddha images and then splash about with elephants. TAT Ayutthaya, 035-246-076/7

Songkran festivities on Phuket are usually held at several locations including Sarasin Bridge (which connects Phuket to the mainland) and the Old Town on Thalang Road. But if you want to celebrate with fellow travelers, head to the island’s most popular beach, Patong, where the biggest celebrations will take place from Bang La Road to the Beachfront Road. TAT Phuket, 076-211036, 076-212-213

PATTAYA When: Apr 13-19 Where: Lan Pho Na Klua Park, Wat Chai Mong Kol and Pattaya Beach Road

The Eastern provinces celebrate Songkran later than most and, of course, the biggest city in the region, Pattaya, hosts the largest and longest party. Called Wan Lai (Flowing Day) by locals, the event features making merit, the construction of sand chedi and the Kong Khao procession in appreciation of the Goddess of Rice. The wilder fun kicks off when the beach road is closed to traffic and turns into a water battlefield. Pattaya City Call Center 1337, www.pattaya.go.th

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Planning a visit to Singapore? Free digital subscription to Where速 Singapore for insider tips on where to go and what to do handy city maps & transportation guide

www.wheresingapore.com

to be the first to hear about new openings and

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where

AROUND THAILAND THE LATEST OPENINGS AND HAPPENINGS AROUND THE KINGDOM

MIND OVER MATTER

LIMELIGHT

TITAN FITNESS

PHUKET

RISE OF THE TITANS

IN THE LIMELIGHT

ISLAND PRIDE

Looking to get pumped while down on the islands? Titan Fitness (www.titanfitness.info) is the largest fitness camp in Phuket, boasting indoor and outdoor training areas, a strongman area and an assault course. It offers daily classes on the beach designed for visitors who want to take advantage of the sun, sand and sea while also keeping in shape. Work your body with one of the Body360 classes, or if you’re feeling extra adventurous try their cross-training or strength and conditioning sessions. A drop-in session at the fitness camp costs B400, a one-day unlimited pass costs B800 and a 10-visit pass costs B3,500.

Amid the Sino-Portuguese shop-houses of Phuket’s old town on Dibuk Road, you’ll find the new community mall Limelight (limelightphuket.com). Most of the restaurants, fashion boutiques and beauty parlors are fairly typical, but the space does hold various events and exhibitions outdoors. Chief among these is Phuket Indy Market, which takes place every Thursday and Friday from 4-10pm, offering handmade crafts, art and secondhand clothing, plus live music, local food and cocktails. Also check out the yoga studio, Yoga by Kru Nuch (1/F, 094-582-4266).

Southern Thailand’s biggest annual LGBT gathering, Phuket Pride Week, this year takes place on Apr 19-26. Head over to Patong Beach to join locals, expats and tourists for a week filled with pool and beach parties, parades, sporting events, day trips, gala dinners, auctions and other fundraising events organized by the Phuket Loves You (PLU) Club. The funds raised from the event will go to charities such as The Life Home Project and health clinics that offer a safe environment for those with HIV and free STD testing and health advice. Visit www.phuket-pride. org for more details.

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WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM

CHIANG MAI

KOH SAMUI

WILD STYLE

SIP AND SPLASH

Thailand has some amazing street artist talent, all of which will be on display at the Meeting of Styles graffiti festival in Chiang Mai on Apr 17-19. This year’s event promises to breathe new life into an abandoned building in the Mae Jo district of Chiang Mai through top graffiti artists, DJs, BBoys and street markets in line with the theme “Mind Over Matter.” There will also be workshops. For more information and registration, visit ow.ly/Kqr0B.

Nikki Beach (077-914-500, www.nikkibeachthailand.com) is warming up for this year’s celebrations with its Songkran Splash Therapy Sunday brunch event on Apr 12. The special version of the resort’s Amazing Sunday Brunch, which runs every week, will feature some special Thai-style decor, outfits and entertainment, plus some water pistol action. The all-you-caneat brunch buffet will run from 11am-4pm, along with live music from in-house DJs and musicians. Tickets for the brunch start at B1,700 and daybeds and bottle-service tables come with an additional cost ranging from B5,000-15,000. To purchase tickets online, visit ow.ly/KFtwz.

LANNA CHARMS Known for its luxurious Northern-style villas and lush gardens, the stately Dhara Dhevi Chiang Mai (053-888-888, www. dharadhevi.com) is offering a promotion for those looking for a three-day summer getaway. Through Sep 30, those who book stays of two consecutive nights get their last night for free. All stays come with complimentary breakfast, and guests also get free use of bicycles to pedal around the 60-acre development. All of the 123 villas in the resort are surrounded by lush, tropical gardens and an array of dining options ranging from traditional Thai to French cuisine.

THE HEAVEN KHAO LAK

DHARA DHEVI

PANG NGA

HONEYMOON HEAVEN Hidden away on 16 rai of greenery on Khuk Khak Beach, The Haven Khao Lak (076-429-900/2, www.thehavenkhaolak.com) offers 110 luxurious rooms, suites and villas. The highlights are the villas which line a massive 5,000-sqmeter saltwater swimming pool that stretches along the resort’s 380-meter beachfront. The opening rates start from B4,500 for a deluxe room, B7,500 for deluxe pool-access room and B12,500 for villa Jacuzzi, all of which include breakfast. To complete the honeymoon vibe, the resort doesn’t allow guests under 16 years old.

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whereExploring APRIL 2015 | BANGKOK

CHINATOWN Chinatown, which stretches across Yaowarat and Pahurat roads, is home to many historical landmarks owned by Chinese immigrant families who fled the civil war before 1930. With them, they brought their ancient healing methods and Taoist culture, as well as the beliefs of Chinese Mahayana Buddhism to Thailand. More recently, the area has also started attracting some cool bars to stop for a drink, too.

NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES 20 CHINATOWN

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EXPLORING

CHINATOWN Y CHINATOWN’S TOP

STREET-FOOD STALLS

!8 Guay Tiew Kua Gai This gem, very well-known among locals, is hidden in a tiny alley and run by an old couple who have been serving one of the best guay tiew kua gai (fried noodles with chicken) for decades. Yaowarat Soi 6, Open Wed-Mon, 7pm-1am

!9 Pa Jin Cockle Soi Texas

!3 DOUBLE

Located in the middle of Soi Texas, this place has been specialzing in soft -boiled cockles and mussels for over 35 years.

DOGS

This old tea room brings the very essence of China to Bangkok. Teas focus on traditional Japanese and Chinese varieties, including sencha, gyokuro and matcha (green tea). Everything is brewed in proper terracotta teapots with plenty of tealeaves and not too much water. The results aren’t for the kiddies—this is strong, real tea-drinkers’ stuff. The Chinese and Western desserts include lao-huay (crispy fried rice roll drizzled with sesame seeds), fruitcake, banana cake and Valencia orange cake.

Soi Phadungdao, Yaowarat Rd., 081-795-1839 Open daily Mon-Sat 6:30pm-1am, Sun 5pm-1am

406 Yaowarat Rd., 086-329-3075. Open Tue-Sun 11am-10pm

ATTRACTIONS Although many generations have passed, Taoist culture still remains strong in Chinatown, giving this part of town a rich and unique history. Using life-size models and audiovisual displays, the 1 Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Center (661 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-623-3329, Tue-Sun 8am-5pm) details the history of Chinese migration to Thailand, as well as how the area now known as Chinatown began. A day in Chinatown also wouldn’t be complete without seeing an old-fashioned 2 Chinese opera (Charoenkrung Soi 20) performance featuring mythical

WAT MANGKHON KAMALAWAT

characters from Taoist culture. The exact location moves around, so check with a local in advance. Of the various Thai-Chinese shrines and temples in the neighborhood, 3 Wat Triammit (02-225-9775, Tue-Sun 9am-5pm) is not to be missed, home to the world’s biggest seated Golden Buddha, which also happens to be the largest gold statue in the world. Built in the 14th century, it remains very sacred and is a popular site for locals during religious holidays. Nearby, you’ll find 4 Wat Mongkhon Kamalawat (Mangkorn Rd., 02-222-

WAT TRIAMMIT

3975), which combines Buddhist, Taoist and Confucian figures. A lot of devout Buddhist locals tend to practice here, so be sure to respect them as they perform their religious rituals. For a more tourist-friendly experience, head to the colorful old Chinese Buddhist shrines at 5 Li Thi Miew (494 Plapphlachai Rd., 02-221-6985), where you’ll be welcomed with your camera at the ready— so long as you wear appropriate clothing. The most picturesque shrine in the area has to be the 6 Guan Yin Shrine (600 Yaowarat Rd., 02-237-2191), where a classically ornate Chinese building houses a 900-year-old statue of the Mahayana Buddhist Goddess of Mercy. Yaowarat is also known as a hub for gold trade. The ancient 7 Tang Toh Kang (Soi Vanit 1, 02-224-2422) gold shop dates back to the early 1900s and the reign of King Rama VI. Today, the seven-story late colonial-style building is still owned by its founding family, and in 2002 underwent a major renovation. Although the shop still deals gold on a

@0 Kuay Jub Nai Ek This place is known for its kuay jub – a hot dish composed of rolled noodles with crispy pork belly, blood and intestines served in peppery soup. Yaowarat Rd., corner of Soi 11. Open daily 7pm-late

T&K SEAFOOD

@1 T&K Seafood and

R&L Seafood, Soi Texas

Located opposite each other, these two restaurants are known for their fresh seafood dishes at reasonable prices. Soi Phadung Dao, Yaowarat Rd. Open daily 6pm-1am

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EXPLORING

CHINATOWN

DRINK Until recently, Chinatown was never on the nightlife radar. But a recent wave of new bars have been converting old shop-houses, both in Chinatown and the surrounding area. One of the first to open was !4 El Chiringuito (221 Soi Nana, Charoenkrung Rd., 086,340-4791), which has a charming retro ambience courtesy of reclaimed

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1 Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Center 2 Chinese opera 3 Wat Triammit Rajinee Pier 4 Wat Mongkhon Kamalawat Pak 5 Li Thi Miew Khlong Talat 6 Guan Yin Shrine Pier Kaniayanamit 7 Tang Toh Kang Pier Memorial Bridge 8 Ying Yang Massage Pier 9 Yim Yim Ar !0 Jok’s Kitchen un !1A Royal India m ar !2 Eiah-Sae in Rd Dogs !3 Double . !4 El Chiringuito !5 Cho Why !6 Bar 23 !7 Grand China Hotel !8 Guay Tiew Kua Gai !9 Pa Jin Cockle Soi Texas @0 Kuay Jub Nai Ek Som det @1 T&K Seafood and R&L Seafood Ch I ts

Lua

sauce and fried rice with crabmeat to a packed dining room every night. Dining here is done traditional Chinese-style, so come with a big enough party to fill one of the large round tables. While Yaowarat is known for its Chinese food, the adjoining Pahurat is home to a sizable Indian community, and !1 Royal India (392/1 Chakkaphet Rd., 02-221-6565) is simply one of the best places in town for lip-smacking good Punjabi recipes. Turn on your heels, because here they cook in true Indian grandmother style—plenty of cream and ghee. And be sure to stock up on traditional Indian sweets on your way out. The area’s old-school tea and coffee houses are also not to be missed. The 87-year-old !2 Eiah-Sae (1-103 Yaowarat Rd., 081-868-9891) serves

Rd.

Dining in Chinatown is all about oldschool shop-house restaurants that have stood in the same spot for 80 years or more. Places like 9 Yim Yim (89 Yaowaphanit Rd., 02-224-2203), a venerable institution in Yaowarat’s rich dining scene—which is to say it’s some of the best Chinese food you’ll get in Bangkok, despite the gloomy decor and small, dark space. The goat ham and cured fish are delicious. On a similar note, don’t be discouraged by the rats and cockroaches in the alleyway leading to !0 Jok’s Kitchen (23 Soi Isara Nuphap, 02-221-4075), a small, menu-less establishment known as one of the hottest seats in town. Chef Jok presents course after course of things like steamed bass in soy

EIAH-SAE

wooden furniture, classic sewing tables, old posters and an adorable chalkboard menu. The owner lived in Spain for six years, and the kitchen rolls out dishes like tortilla de patatas (omelet), patatas bravas (fried potatoes) and bocadillos (sandwiches). Wash it down with a Spanish Xoriguer gin. Just round the corner you’ll find the multi-disciplinary art space !5 Cho Why (17 Soi Nana, Charoenkrung Rd.), which holds informal gatherings like photography/art exhibitions, documentary screenings and rooftop paella nights. Note that it only opens when there’s an event happening, so check their Facebook page (www. fb.com/chowhybkk) for updates before heading over. On the same street, !6 Bar 23 (92 Soi Nana, Charoenkrung Rd., 086-264-4471), has a no-frills atmosphere, walls decorated by the owner’s personal artwork and a soundtrack that flits between 90s Britpop and more Rastafarian sounds. Or for something completely different, head up to the 25th floor of the !7 Grand China Hotel (215 Yaowarat Rd., 02-2249977), where a revolving restaurant and bar offers 360-degree views of Chinatown and the river.

EAT

coffee laced with condensed milk alongside charming snacks like custard on toast, soft-boiled eggs and toast with butter, jam or chocolate spread, all charged at rock-bottom prices. !3 Double Dogs, meanwhile, specializes in potent, properly brewed teas from across the region (see highlight, page 20).

day-to-day basis, a section has also been converted into a museum for the public. Be sure to call ahead one day in advance as they don’t allow walkin visitors for security reasons. After a day’s exploring, treat your sore feet at 8 Ying Yang Massage (Charoenkrung Soi 72/4, 02-688-8991), with a 90-minute Chinese-heritage massage using ginger and a mix of techniques.

GETTING THERE

Reaching Chinatown is easy. Simply take the MRT (underground train) to Hua Lamphong station and head to Exit 1. Follow the road over a footbridge that crosses the canal and you’ll be at the doorway to the area. See page 32 for a general map of Bangkok.

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ThewhereGuide APRIL 2015 | BANGKOK NEW

PASTE (GAYSORN PLAZA)

Two of Bangkok’s most highly-regarded modern chefs, Bongkoch Satongun and Jason Bailey, have joined forces with the aristocratic Sanitwong family, descendents of King Rama II, to open this second branch of Paste. Its specialty is recipes from the Sanitwongs’ ancient cook books, with a particular emphasis on curries. Try the gang gai gorlae (Southern Thai-Muslim curry with grilled chicken), made using sous-vide, coconuthusk-smoked grilled chicken. Gaysorn Plaza, 999 Ploen Chit Rd., 02-656-1003. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 11:30am-3pm, 6-11pm

BANGKOK’S BEST VENUES 23 DINING 26 NIGHTLIFE

28 ART + ATTRACTIONS 29 SHOPS + SERVICES

30 HEALTH + WELLNESS 31 PROPERTY

32 NAVIGATE

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GUIDE

DINING

BABETTE’S THE STEAKHOUSE NEW

Amid Art Deco-referencing decor, chef Michael Owens brings together some of the finest meats from Australia, Japan and America cooked in a French style with various sauces to match. Apart from steaks, the menu also comprises a variety of panseared seafood, new world wines, Champagne and classic cocktails. The restaurant is currently open for dinner only, with live jazz from Thursday to Saturday. Reservations are recommended as seats with views are limited. 19/F, Hotel Muse Bangkok Langsuan, 55/555 Lang Suan Rd., 02-630-4000. Open daily 6pm1am. BTS Ratchadamri

Y SPOTLIGHT

Hot Spots BEST BREAKFASTS

ROAST

Here you’ll find excellent coffee roasted just around the corner. Whether you opt for the French press or the drip coffee, the beans are expertly selected from various regions. The menu covers brunch-type dishes like crab cakes with eggs Benedict and corned beef hash, as well as more substantial options like burgers, steak-frites, flank steak and butterroasted chicken. 2/F, Seenspace, Thonglor Soi 13, 02-185-2865. Open Mon-Thu 10am-11pm; Fri-Sat 9am-11pm; Sun 9am10pm

TAPER

This brunch spot offers Western dishes with Thai twists, such as salted egg carbonara (fresh pasta, grilled squid, salty egg yolk) and E-Sarn Olio Aglio (fresh pasta, Isaan sausage, salted fish). Also expect breakfast staples like eggs Benedict and granola with yogurt and their house-made buttermilk biscuit. Downstairs is dedicated to an open kitchen, while the mezzanine level has a more intimate feel, with space for about 20 people.

ROAST

G/F, 44/11 Thonglor Soi 13, 099-929-5464. Open Tue-Sun 9am-4pm

MSC Thai Culinary School Unlike other Thai cooking schools around town, this new venture in partnership with one of Bangkok’s leading chefs, Chumpol Jangprai of Siam Wisdom (see page 10), is dedicated to one-year professional culinary courses in Thai cuisine. But members of the public are welcome to join in too, with half-day cooking classes that teach you how to make a four-course menu of traditional Thai dishes, followed by lunch with the instructor. 457/1-6 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-185-1414. www.msccookingschool.com

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TASTEOFTHECITY DINING GUIDE

Recent Openings

THE SMOKIN’ PUG BBQ AND BLUES BAR

Surawong’s new American barbecue bar focuses on smoked meats.

88 Surawong Rd., 089-8184963. Open daily 11:30-12am. BTS Sala Daeng

PAK BOONG

A new restaurant that brings Thai street eats indoors.

8 Thonglor Soi 25, 02-712-8259. Open daily 11am-11pm

R.E.234

The Rama IV-themed restaurant serves up Thai and Western comfort food.

45 Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02-117-2829. Open daily 10am-11pm

Advertise your business with us starting from B5,000 Credit card payment accepted.

GOK FAYUEN

The new Thonglor restaurant specializes in the eponymous dish of Cantonese soup noodles with shrimp dumplings.

Email sales@asia-city.co.th or call 026249601

161/7 Thonglor Soi 9, 080-588-7715

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GUIDE

DINING

ROCKET COFFEE BAR

This Scandanavian-style cafe is one of the most popular breakfast venues for locals and expats thanks to a delightful interior decked out with homey details like fruit bowls and glossy magazines. Although their breakfast menu sounds fairly simple—omelets, buckwheat waffles, Scandinavian open sandwiches and homemade granola—they use the freshest ingredients, much of it organic. Do try the cold-brew tea and home-infused cocktails. 149 Sathorn Soi 12, 02-635-0404. Open daily 7am-11pm. BTS Chong Nonsi

GRAM

Sure, service is a little slow, but that’s mostly because this cute garden spot is usually packed out with the Thonglor neighborhood’s stylish set. The brunch-focused menu is filled with eggs, pancakes and sausages, all cooked behind a small kitchen counter. Highlights include the salmon scrambled eggs, Ovaltine pancake and barbecue pulled-pork burger with coleslaw. Sukhumvit Soi 49, 081-884-8554. Open Tue-Sun 9am-5pm

BLACK BOX

This restaurant offers an all-day breakfast menu with unique selections such as the espresso-dusted tuna served with greens and a poached egg and duck confeit waffles. Apart from breakfast, the hip space, owned by a group of bike enthusiasts, is also known for its freshly tossed salads and basic Western food with a twist, like the toasted chicken cranberry salad and the crackling pork belly burger. There is also a great selection of coffee and cocktails.

HIGH-RISE DINING Restaurants with views as good as the food

Park Society

L’Appart

Above Eleven

For a real breath of fresh air and a park view to boot, head up to the 29th floor of the super trendy Sofitel So. Inside is for fine dining on international cuisine, while out on the rooftop, it’s all about cocktails, lounge tunes and the striking view. Expect modern takes on French recipes, such as the pan-seared trout with bouillabaisse sauce or the slow-braised lamb shank with eggplant caviar. They also do a five-course chef’s menu.

On the 32nd floor of Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, chef Jerome Deconinck (formerly chef de cuisine at the Hilton Tokyo’s Le Pergolese), cooks up classic and contemporary French cuisine. The space feels like a classic Parisian apartment—parquet floor, velvet upholstery, wood paneling, even a La Cornue stove in the open kitchen. The adventurous should order the dishes that make use of local produce and flavors, think steamed buttefish, king crab, black ink risotto and tom kha beurre blanc or foie gras duo, roasted figs and combawa essence from the Royal Projects.

This bar and restaurant doesn’t just have great views of the city; there’s also an adventurous menu of Japanese-Peruvian fusion (aka Nikkei) cuisine. Small plates like acebichado rolls (seabass, ika karage, avocado) and skewers of anticucho beef heart are bettered only by their signature cocktails. Note that if you’re sitting at the bar you’ll have your back to the skyline, so it’s worth booking a table in advance.

29/F, Sofitel So, 2 Sathorn Rd., 02-624-0000. Open daily 5pm12:30am. MRT Lumphini

33/F, Fraser Suites, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 083-542-1111. Open daily 6pm-2am. BTS Nana

32/F, Sofitel Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-126-9999. Open daily 5pm-1am. BTS Nana

Mahatun Plaza, 888/8-9 Ploen Chit Rd., 02-6515188. BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily 8am-6pm

Y SPOTLIGHT

Gaggan After building a solid foundation in Indian and Italian cooking at hotel restaurants, Gaggan Anand did a brief stint at the research facility of El Bulli, the former modern-gastro capital of the world. His eponymous restaurant serving molecular Indian cooking ranked No. 1 in Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2015. Expect foams, spherification, dehydration and more alongside traditional curries. 68/1 Soi Lang Suan, 02-652-1700. Open daily 6pm-midnight. BTS Ratchadamri

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GUIDE

NIGHTLIFE NEW

THE VAULT

After passing through a big round door and arched corridor, you’ll be greeted by a 1920s speakeasy-inspired lounge and a swinging jazz band (every Thursday and Sunday). The bar focuses on whiskey, classic cocktails and Cuban cigars. Their selection is particularly impressive: 10 Champagnes, 60 cocktails, a huge choice of blended and single malt whiskeys, plus a menu of fine wines. On Fri-Sat, resident DJ Fred Jungo spins disco and R&B. 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 082-308-3246. BTS Nana. Open Tue-Sun 9pm-2am

Hot Spots RIVERSIDE BARS WE LOVE

SAMBAL

Y SPOTLIGHT

The stylish riverside venue serves Southeast Asian cuisine with a contemporary touch. Opt to sit under the enormous banyan tree, close to the cabana-like bar and picturesque river scene. Apart from the five-star views, you can expect delightful dishes like the Bali bouillabaisse—rich in both texture and flavor. There is a good list of tropical-feeling signature cocktails, too, such as Mangkut Drowning: Barbados dark rum with mangosteen puree. Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers, 2 Charoenkrung Soi 30, 02-266-9214. Open daily 5-10:30pm, 4pm-1am

SAMBAL

SHEEPSHANK

This restaurant right by Phra Athit Pier still bears some traces of its previous life as an old shipyard in the form of the old pulleys, crates and buoys that adorn the dining area that’s been polished up in an industrial style. As well as modern American comfort dishes, they also serve a decent selection of wines, as well as Italian craft beer like Birra Menabrea. 47 Phra Athit, 02-629-5165. Open Tue-Thu 5:30pm-midnight; Fri-Sun 5:30pm-1am. BUBBLE & RUM

This elegant bar evokes colonial outposts, the Pax Britannica of Queen Victoria, the decadence of opium or gambling dens, steamy exoticism (and steaming noodles on your way in), James Bond movies and gentlemen’s clubs. You can usually expect some kind of entertainment: a band, a DJ accompanied by a percussionist and beautiful ladies in cheongsam dresses lazing about. The cocktail menu is sweet, fruity and aromatic.

BABBLE & RUM (BAR)

The main restaurant (ground floor) and bar (second floor) of this welcoming riverside hotel next to Phra Arthit Pier are decorated like a contemporary French cafe, finished in dark woods, mirrors and leather-clad couches. An outdoor terrace and a laidback upstairs area make it the perfect spot for a chilled night out. The menu features Thai and inter-comfort food and plenty of cocktails. Try the Jelly Riva (vodka, melon syrup, lime juice on top of jelly).

1-2/F, Riva Surya, 23 Phra Athit Rd., 02-633-5000. Open daily 6:30-1am

Maggie Choo’s

Underground/F, Hotel Novotel Bangkok Fenix Silom, 320 Silom Rd., 091-772-2144. BTS Surasak SHEEPSHANK

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GUIDE

NIGHTLIFE IN THE MIX Our favorite spots for cocktails

U.N.C.L.E.

SALA RATTANAKOSIN EATERY & BAR

This boutique hotel on the Chao Phraya River offers stunning views of Wat Arun. The renovated four-story shop-house boasts a small number of guestrooms but half of the building is dedicated to wining and dining, courtesy of chef Tony Wrigley, whose restaurant whips up some pretty impressive Thai food. For us though, the highlight is its rooftop bar—the perfect place for sipping a great selection of cocktails. Sala Rattanakosin Hotel, Maharaj Rd., 02-6221388. Open daily 7-10:30am, 11am-4:30pm, 5:3010:30pm

VIVA & AVIV

Located right by the Chao Phraya River, this venue has a pirate theme with a dash of industrial chic: the bar is made out of old wooden crates, with lobster traps accessorizing the walls and sailboat hardware hanging from the ceiling. Soak up the river view and enjoy bistro-style food and inventive, well-made cocktails like the Pina Colasi (Appleton Jamaican rum, fresh pineapple, orange and black pepper syrup, citrus and fresh young coconut foam).

Bamboo Bar Opened back in 1953, this hotel bar is one of the city’s oldest live jazz institutions. What’s more, the bar also does some of the best cocktails in town, whether its signature classics like the Mekhong rum-laced Thaijito or elaborate, molecular concoctions like the Raspberry Nitrogen Sorbet. 1/F, Mandarin Oriental, 48 Charoen Krung Soi 40 (Oriental Ave.), 02-659-9000. BTS Saphan Taksin. Open Sun-Thu 5pm-1am; Fri-Sat 5pm-2am

U.N.C.L.E.

River City, Unit 118, 23 Rongnamthaeng, Yota Rd., 02-639-6305 SALA RATTANAKOSIN EATERY & BAR

This wonderfully moody lounge boasts a stellar cocktail list, and is known for having some of the best—and priciest—drinks in town. They also serve some tasty steak and mussels. Fittingly, the space is all chocolate tones, leather upholstery, circular booths and warm lighting. 2/F, Lady Brett, 149 Sathorn Soi 12, 02-635-0406. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-1am

Hyde & Seek The beveled windows, dark woodwork and leather couches make this a spot with a masculine and retro appeal. The menu features lovingly-made traditional pub food with a high-end twist, like baby back ribs in a chili and chocolate glaze. But we also go for the cocktails, which are some of the best in town. 65/1 Athenee Residence, Soi Ruam Rudi, Wireless Rd., 02-168-5152-3. BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily 11-1am

Namsaah Bottling Trust One of the partners at this new venue, set in a 100-year-old house painted pink, is acclaimed chef Ian Kittichai. His menu is all about twists on Asian comfort food, like pad Thai with duck and foie gras. Downstairs specializes in cocktails, with a long list of recognizable classics given local twists, while upstairs offers more formal dining in a brightly wallpapered setting. 401 Silom Soi 7, 02-636-6622. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open daily 5pm-2am

Vesper The elegant blend of gentlemen’s club and European bistro looks to appeal to serious cocktail drinkers. The imposing marble bar is packed with uncommon spirit bottles and oak barrels, and serves cocktails courtesy of London-based mixologist team Fluid Movement and in-house bar team led by Colin Tait from Scotland. 10/15 Convent Rd., 02-235-2777. BTS Sala Daeng. Open Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm; Sun-Thu 5pm-midnight; Fri-Sat 5pm-1am

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GUIDE

ART+ ATTRACTIONS STATE OF THE RIDICULOUS HIGHLIGHT

Tuksina Pipitkul and Wantanee Siripattananuntakul's new installation takes over H Gallery's main space, as well as H Project Space, for a playful exhibition exploring the fine line between humor and offense while questioning how we relate to the world. Other themes include the instability of cultural symbols and declining social hierarchies. Through Apr 26. H Gallery, Sathorn Soi 12, 085-021-5508. Open Wed-Mon 10am-6pm. BTS Chong Nonsi

Hot Spots EXHIBITIONS

LIFE IN MONOGRAM

Y SPOTLIGHT

The new exhibition at Koi Art Gallery explores Silawit Poolsawat’s works, which are inspired by old, forgotten photographs of Asian women. The artist believes that these photographs contain a type of history-rich rawness that reveals their way of life, cultures, beliefs and emotional journeys. Through Apr 30. Koi Art Gallery, Sukhumvit Soi 31. 02-662-3218. Open Tue-Sun 11am-6:30pm. BTS Phrom Phong SUPERHUMAN

LIFE IN MONOGRAM

SUPERHUMAN

Humans strive for perfection in many areas of their lives, such as love, relationships, family and appearance. However, behind every ideal person, there is usually another hidden fragile side, believes Krit Chantranet, an artist who questions the completeness of human beings, through sarcastic nudes. His paintings focus on flesh and muscles, using bold brushstrokes to depict a human’s true identity beyond their perfect exteriors. Through Apr 25. Numthong Art Gallery, 72/3 Soi Ari 5, 02 617 2794. Open Mon-Sat 11am-6pm. BTS Ari

THAI NEOTRADITIONAL ART

The exhibition looks at the work of a group of Thai artists who have been instrumental in developing a new stylistic language for Thai art that appeals to international audiences. Among them is Professor Chalermchai Kositpipat, National Artist in Visual Arts 2010, who was one of the original volunteers to paint imagery on the walls of the UK's first Buddhist temple, the Buddhapadipa Temple, in 1987.

Through Apr 26. Musuem of Contemporary Art (MOCA), Bejajinda Building, Wiphaadi-Rangsit Rd., 02-953-1111. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm

SITES OF SOLITUDE

Chatchai Puipia’s two-part exhibition features the artist’s rarely or never-exhibited paintings, drawings, sketches, photography and guest documentaries, as well as a new database of the artist’s works from the 1980s to the present day. As well as artwork, the exhibition also displays interviews with the artist on his career and personal life. Apr 9- Jan 3, 2016. 100 Tonson Gallery, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-684-1527. Open Thur-Sun 11am-7pm. BTS Phloen Chit

BACC

Set in the bustling Pratumwan area just across the road from Siam Square and MBK, this public art center has become a popular hot-spot for the people of Bangkok. Aside from the contemporary art exhibitions, BACC also contains small, design-centric stores, ranging from cafes and restaurants to book shops. The top floor also boasts a movie theater, complete with a decent-sized stage for live performances. 939 Rama 1 Rd., 02-214-6630-8. Open Tue-Sun 10am9pm. BTS National Stadium. www.bacc.or.th

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BANGKOK

SHOPPING NEW

THE EMQUARTIER

This new shopping mall is part of a B20 billion restyling of the Phrom Phong area as Em District, a development of premium hotels, offices, residences and entertainment facilities. In it, you’ll find high-end boutiques including flagship stores from MCM, Jimmy Choo, Valentino, Sephora and A Bathing Ape, plus cult Asian brands Stylenanda (Korea) and Beams (Japan). The striking development features a 40-meterhigh man-made waterfall as well as green spaces integrated into its architecture. The Emquartier, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-269-1000. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Phrom Phong

Hot Spots OUR FAVE MARKETS

CHATUCHAK MARKET

Y SPOTLIGHT

PAK KLONG TALAD

This weekend bazaar can be a daunting shopping experience. Spread over a 70rai plot of land, the sprawling web of 15,000 stalls is one of the world’s largest markets. You’ll find everything from food, furniture, books, plants, clothes and antiques to puppies and exotic pets. Section 3, just outside the Kamphaeng Phet MRT station, is the most design-forward part of the market, home to both established and up-and-coming Thai artists.

At Bangkok’s largest flower market, flowers from around Thailand (and the world) arrive before being distributed to hotels, restaurants and small retailers. you’ll find everything from local jasmine to imported red roses. The market is open 24 hours with different atmospheres during day and night. The liveliest period is probably from midnight4am, when the day’s batch of fresh flowers start to arrive, and the authentic trading action takes place.

Next to Chatuchak Park, Kamphaeng Phet Rd. Open Sat-Sun 10am-8pm. BTS Mo Chit

From Memorial Bridge to Khlong Lord, Chak Phet Rd. Open 24 hours

TALAD ROD FAI

This vintage market behind Seacon Square is home to small stalls selling all sorts of retro bric-a-brac, from antique toys and vinyl to secondhand clothes and cameras. There are also plenty of vintage-inspired bars and cafes. To reach it, get the BTS to Udomsuk and then take a taxi. Don’t be put off if all you see on arrival is plastic junk—the best finds are at the back of the market. CHATUCHAK MARKET

ASIATIQUE

The first shopping center to sit on the riverbank is themed according to the city’s architecture of old. It includes over 1,500 boutiques covering quirky fashion and intriguing souvenirs, as well as a variety of eateries, beer gardens and wine bars. The gigantic venue is also home to a ferris wheel and stage shows. We like the seafood at Baan Khanitha. Free ferry from Sathorn Pier. 2194 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-108-4488. Open daily 5pm-midnight

Sri Nakarin Soi 51, 081-1827-5885. Open Thu-Sun 5pm-midnight

WANG LANG MARKET

This daily market runs along the river on the lesser visited Thonburi side, next to Siriraj Hospital, and is filled with locals of all ages every day. Stalls sell everything from food to toys, but the majority of the buzz centers on secondhand clothes for men and women—all at incredibly low prices. Most visitors reach the market by boat from Sathorn Pier or Prachan Pier. Siriraj Pier, Wang Lang Rd. Open daily 10am-6pm

SIAM CENTER The four-story mall right by the BTS is home to some of the very best Thai fashion brands. Most of them are concentrated on the third floor. Greyhound offers contemporary clothing with a focus on menswear, while Senada features classically feminine pieces. Other brands worth checking out include Milin (youthful yet sexy), Fly Now (sophisticated, tailored) and Disaya (playful and edgy). Be sure to also drop by The Selected multi-label store. Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000 ext 500. Open daily 10am9pm. BTS Siam

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GUIDE

HEALTH + WELLNESS MANDARIN GINGER SPA NEW

At this new day spa in the trendy Thonglor neighborhood, treatments are designed to ease urbanites’ most common muscle complaints like a stiff back, neck and shoulders. Swedish and Thai massage and aromatherapy treatments are available, as well as body scrubs and facial treatments. But for us, the real highlights are the spa packages. For just B1,000, you can get an hourlong foot massage and hour-long head, neck and shoulder massage. G/F, S59 Executive Apartment, Sukhumvit Soi 59, 02-108-9646. Open daily 10am-10pm

Hot Spots SPAS FOR ORGANIC TREATMENTS

PANPURI ORGANIC SPA

Hidden behind the display shelves of high-end beauty store Panpuri are two small treatment rooms decorated with black stone and gold mosaics. The wide range of treatments all use spa-exclusive organic products.

L/F, Gaysorn Plaza, 02-656-1199. Open daily 10:30am-7pm. www.panpuriorganicspa.com

DIVANA VIRTUE SPA

In a century-old house with its own private garden, this spa offers Organic Thai Rice Therapy, designed to combat dry skin with a combination of young Thai rice and rice bran oil. It combines six steps, beginning with a body rub of aloe vera and yeast serum, followed by herbal steam using rice water, a body scrub using young rice and young rice milk, a warm body wrap and a body massage using hot stones and wheat serum. The session ends with an organic rice milk bath containing pink jasmine rice and yeast serums. 10 Srivieng Rd, Silom Rd., 02-236-6788. Open TueSun 11am-11pm, Sat-Mon 10am-10pm

NATURITA

This popular hot spot with Thai celebrities claims to use only premium-grade organic ingredients free from toxic chemicals. The clean facilities and friendly service go way beyond what you’d expect at such reasonable prices, too. Try the 120-minute Naturita Body Treatment, which includes exfoliation, massage, body mask and serum.

Room 929, 5/F, Siam Discovery, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-0501. Open daily 10am-9pm.

Set in a stylish compound, this spa’s cool white exterior gives way to 15 treatment rooms decorated in a Thai Lanna style. The King of Oasis treatment is best suited to men and features a two-hour hot Thai herbal muscle compress and a hot oil massage. Ladies can opt for the two-hour Queen of Oasis, which blends Swedish and aromatherapy massages. They also have other a la carte and package treatments for hair, body and face. 64 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-262-2122. Open daily 10am-10pm

DIVANA VIRTUE SPA

OASIS SPA

Y SPOTLIGHT

PANPURI ORGANIC SPA

SALA

Located in a rooftop pavilion, Sala offers a wide range of treatments such as facials, massages, herbal steams and mani-pedis. Enjoy a panoramic view of the city while getting a traditional Thai massage or pamper yourself with a relaxing hydrotherapy treatment with organic herbs. What’s even better is that the spa specializes in personalized treatments, during which the therapist custom picks herbs depending on your skin type.

8/F, Nuovo City Hotel, 2 Samsen Rd., 02-282-7500. Open daily 10am-8pm

Phothalai Spa

This spa is nestled in a 16-acre development of state-of-the-art leisure facilities including a golf course, and specializes in traditional treatments. One of its owners is a blood-relative of the founders of Wat Phom, the birthplace of Thai massage, so it’s no surprise that all the therapists are trained to deliver authentic, classic treatments. Try the 150-minute Thai Holistic Massage, which combines deep-tissue and acupressure. Room 28, Praditmanoontham Soi 3 (Yothin Pattana), 02-508 5111. Open daily 9am-10pm

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PROPERTY NEW

M THONGLOR 10

Thailand’s high-end condominium brand Major Development has unveiled its latest project, M Thonglor 10, at the very center of Bangkok’s most buzzing neighborhood between Thonglor and Ekkamai (See Exploring, page 18). The building itself is quite something. M Thonglor 10 rises to 22 stories, its glass-house concept and floating clubhouse delivering a sense of futurism and awe. The property consists of 173 units with room types ranging from a 29-sq-meter one-bedroom suite to a 153-sq-meter penthouse. Prices start at B4.2 million for one-bedroom units and 8 million for two-bedroom units 141 Ekkamai Soi 12, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-381-5665. BTS Thonglor. www.mde.co.th

Hot Spots

LUXURY SERVICED RESIDENCES

SUMMER HUA HIN

Located a short walk from the beach, this seven-story property by Sansiri goes for a quaint European village theme, and consists of 150 units ranging from 39-sq-meter one-bedrooms to a 74.5-sqmeter duplex with two bedrooms and two bathrooms. Facilities include a swimming pool, kid’s pool, fitness center, free Wi-Fi in communal areas, 24-hour security with CCTV and beautifully landscaped gardens. Prices from B79,000 per sq meter for a two-bedroom unit. The project is complete and ready to move in. 02-201-3999. goo.gl/9Knlo2

BAAN MAI KHAO BY SANSIRI

Sansiri’s new Baan Mai Khao project features six three-story buildings and three five-story buildings. Single bedroom units (62.5-71.5 sq meters) start from B8.3 million, while the massive 260-sq-meter penthouses (of which there are six) go for B53.3 million. Swanky? You bet. They’re describing the style as “modern Sino-Portuguese,” which means blocky modernist structures with touches of geometric motifs vaguely evocative of the kind of tiles you’d see in Phuket Town’s shop-houses. Stay fit even when the red flag is raised on the beach thanks to the 50-meter lap pool.

Expected completion date: Aug 2015. 081-538-6879. goo.gl/uBSNnt

BAAN MAI KHAO BY SANSIRI

MÖVENPICK WHITE SAND BEACH PATTAYA

Y SPOTLIGHT

Rooms in this ambitious condo from the international Swiss hospitality brand range from 47 sq meters right up to palatial, 520-sq-meter pool villas. The development consists of both a hotel and private residences styled with a lively, tropical theme, and is located close to popular Pattaya attractions such as the Floating Market, Central Festival, Underwater World and Pattaya Park. Expected completion date: Q4 2014. 089-777-8422. www.whitesandbeachpattaya.com

BAAN SAN KRAAM (HUA HIN)

Located right by the beach and surrounded by five-star hotels, this nautical-styled condo from Sansiri offers 52-154-sq-meter rooms starting at a little over B6 million. The condo’s highlight has to be its pool, which is integrated organically into the architecture to create a photogenic common area linking the condo’s various buildings. If that’s not sweet enough, it also offers free Wi-Fi access in all public areas. The project is complete and ready to move in. 1685. goo.gl/xwAuO8

THE ENERGY HUA HIN

Love sports? Then this is the condo for you. Set on a 130-rai plot of land on Petchkasem Road, a 10-minute drive to Hua Hin, this massive project consists of a giant sports complex complete with squash, basketball, bowling and badminton facilities. It incorporates almost 6,000 residential units spread over 34 Euro-style buildings, with sizes ranging from 31-sqmeter one-bedrooms to 108-sq-meter two-beds with private Jacuzzis. Prices from B60,000-80,000 per sq meter. The beach is just 200 meters away, and the development also contains restaurants and shops. Expected completion Date: Dec 2014 02-253-5999, www.theenergy.co.th

THE RIVER This luxurious, high-rise condominium located right by a quiet stretch of the Chao Phraya River was designed to offer privacy without sacrificing the breathtaking view of the city and river. The 250-meter-tall development boasts modern architecture and state-of-the-art fitness facilities, a riverfront infinity pool, sports courts and a riverfront podium. All units come with high-ceilings and solid timber flooring, extravagant bathrooms with frameless glass shower enclosures and built-in wardrobes. This project is complete and ready to move in. 02-6519600. www.theriverbangkok.com

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GUIDE

NAVIGATE

Lat Phrao ÅÒ´¾ÃŒÒÇ

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FIND OUT THE LATEST NEWS ON THAILAND AT WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM AND FACEBOOK.COM/WHERETHAILAND

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GUIDE

NAVIGATE

Essential Tips TRANSPORTATION & MONEY AIRPORT LINK

TUK-TUKS

BANKING HOURS

The Airport Rail Link (ARL) is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to get to and from Suvarnabhumi Airport, especially for those traveling light. There are two types of train: Express Line and City Line. The ARL Express Line runs from Suvarnabhumi Airport to either Phaya Thai (connecting to the BTS) or Makkasan stations (10-minute walk to MRT Petchaburi), and takes 20 minutes. The City Line stops at six stations and takes around 40 minutes. Thai Airways passengers boarding the Express Line can check in their bags at Makkasan station. One-way fares are B15-B45 for City Line and B150 for the Express Line. More information at www.srtet.co.th/en

Tuk-tuks are a noisy but fun way of getting around Bangkok, not to mention great photo opportunities. However, they are no guarantee of beating the infamous traffic and you should agree on a price before getting in. Haggle hard but be wary of any cheap offers if you don’t want an unexpected trip to a tailor or gem store.

Banking hours are generally from 8:30am-3:30pm, Monday through Friday except on public holidays and bank holidays. Banks in malls open daily, 10am-8pm.

TAXIS In Bangkok metered taxis are readily available and very affordable, with fares starting from B35 for the first two kilometers. Despite their many colors, there’s no difference in prices and service. Some drivers speak limited English, so do get your destination written down in Thai to avoid any miscommunication. Taxis sometimes try to negotiate a price. Make sure to only pay the metered price. There are now also a number of mobile phone applications and services for those who want to hail a cab without having to hit the streets. The three main apps are Easy Taxi (www.easytaxi.com/th), Grab Taxi (grabtaxi.com/bangkok-thailand) and Uber (www.uber.com/cities/bangkok). All of these are in English language and charge a fee on top of the meter price.

ATMs are very common in Bangkok and can be found in most areas of Thailand, often located outside 7-Eleven stores. You should easily be able to use overseas cards to withdraw money.

VAT REFUNDS Visitors to Thailand who make purchases of goods valued B5,000 or over from stores displaying the “VAT REFUND FOR TOURISTS” sign are eligible to receive a refund of the VAT paid on the item. At the time you purchase the item present your passport and ask the sales assistant at the store to complete the VAT Refund Application for Tourists form, attaching the original tax invoices to the form. Then at the airport, and before you check-in, present your goods and the refund form to customs officers. After checkin and immigration, proceed to the VAT Refund Office in the departure lounge. Refund amounts under B30,000 will be made in cash (Thai Baht) or by bank draft or credited to your credit card account. Refunds over B30,000 will be made by bank draft or credited to your credit card account.

SKYTRAIN/UNDERGROUND The BTS skytrain stops at Bangkok’s main districts and gives you a bird’s eye view of the city. There are two main lines: the Silom line, which runs from across the river in Bang Wa to National Stadium next to MBK Shopping Centre; and the Sukhumvit line, which runs from Soi Bearing in the eastern part of the city along Sukhumvit before heading up north to Mo Chit station by the Chatuchak Market. Siam is the interchange station between the two lines. Fares are B15-52. Unlimited day passes are B130. The underground, or MRT, is one line but has an extensive reach, from Hua Lamphong train station on the outskirts of Chinatown, down through the main Central Business District before turning North and heading up Ratchadapisek Road past Chatuchak Market and ending at Bang Sue station. Fares are B16-B40. There are three interchange stations: (1) BTS Asoke—MRT Sukhumvit, (2) BTS Sala Daeng— MRT Silom and (3) BTS Mo Chit—MRT Chatuchak. Tickets can be bought for individual journeys, or you can get special one-day tourist passes or tickets that cover a specified number of trips. For more information, go to www.bts.co.th and www. bangkokmetro.co.th. Note that the BTS and MRT use different ticketing systems.

ATMS

TUK-TUKS

CANAL BOATS While Bangkok used to be the Venice of the East, there is now only really one canal (klong) still used as a means of getting around. Klong Saen Saep canal has a ferry service that runs daily from Bang Kapi in the Eastern suburbs to Phu Khao Thong or the Golden Mount in the heart of the Old Town (Rattanakosin Island), stopping off at various piers along the way. Be warned though, the boats don’t wait long at the piers, making getting on and off rather nerve-wracking (and physically challenging). And, due to the unsavory nature of the canal water, any picturesque view is blocked by sheets of tarpaulin to prevent splashing. Fares are B9-B19.

EXPRESS RIVER BOATS These fast and frequent ferries along the Chao Phraya River are a great way to get a different perspective on the city, as well as a good option for getting to many of the temples and palaces built along the river. The main Sathorn (Central) pier is located by BTS Saphan Taksin with boats heading upstream from here and stopping off at numerous piers all the way to Nonthaburi. Fares range from B15-B42 depending on distance. You can also opt for a tourist ticket (B150), which allows one-day unlimited travel and comes with a guide booklet to some of the leading tourist attractions accessible from the river. From Sathorn (Central) Pier, you can also catch free ferries to many riverside hotels and Asiatique.

ESSENTIAL NUMBERS 1 EMERGENCY SERVICES (FIRE BRIGADE, POLICE) 191 2 AIRPORT RAIL LINK 02-308-5600. airportraillink.railway.co.th 3 BANGKOK MASS TRANSIT SYSTEM (BTS) 02-617 6000 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bts.co.th 4 BTS TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER 02-617-7340-1 (daily: 8am-8pm). www.bts.co.th 5 BANGKOK METRO (MRT) 02-624-5200 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bangkokmetro.co.th 6 CHAO PHRAYA EXPRESS BOAT CALL CENTER 02-623-6001-3 (6am-7pm). www.chaophrayaexpressboat.com 7 SUVARNABHUMI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 02-132-1888. www.suvarnabhumiairport.com 8 TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND (TAT) 1672 from Thai numbers. www.tourismthailand.org 9 TOURIST POLICE 24-HOUR CALL CENTER 1155 from Thai numbers or 02-250-5500 AP RIL 2015 I W HERE THA ILA N D 33

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21 THINGS WE LOVE about Bangkok

1 Taking in the city view while get- 6 Booking a seat at the counter of !2 Trying on locally-designed, cutting- !8 Immersing ourselves in the Taoist ting a tension-relieving Thai massage at Sala Spa on top of the Nuovo City Hotel in Chinatown. See page 30.

Sushi Hinata, the hottest new omakase-service sushi restaurant in town. See page 12.

edge clothes at Siam Center. See page 33.

!3 Tucking into a scrumptious plate 2 Sampling the icy jasmine-scented 7 Chowing down on the legendary of cranberry French toast at Roast. khao chae, a Thai summer month delicacy and its delicate side dishes at Ruen Urai. See page 6.

kuy tiew kua khai on the streets of Chinatown after dark. See page 20.

See page 25.

!4 Partying by the river at the indus8 Watching old photographs come trial, pirate-chic Viva & Aviv bar and

Thai-Chinese culture at the Yaowarat Chinatown Hertiage Center, a museum detailing Chinese migration to Thailand. See page 20.

!9 Leaning back on one of the spacious lounge chairs with a warm bowl of popcorn in one of the city’s VIP cinemas. See page 8.

3 Sipping a strong East Side cocktail back to life at the latest exhibition at restaurant. See page 27. made from home-infused gin, lemon, cucumber and mint with the city’s coolest hipsters at WTF Bar and Gallery. See page 7.

Koi Art Gallery, where art and nightlife combine. See page 28.

@1 Heading to Cho Why for one of !5 Admiring the work of established this hot Chinatown hangout spot’s and emerging Thai and international

the terrace of Vogue Lounge and

Centre. See page 28.

4 Floating mindlessly in a pod of enjoying the outdoor air-con at this Epsom salt water at the Theta Float Center until we feel relaxed and revived. See page 8

5 Spending an evening at Asiatique, the giant riverside development that’s home to shops, restaurants, bars and cultural performances. See page 33.

infamous paella nights. See page 21.

9 Drinking a Mahanakhon Julep on artists at the Bangkok Art & Culture ritzy rooftop bar. See page 7.

!0 Grabbing a beer and shopping for vintage bargains at the Rod Fai Night Market. See page 33. !1 Partying with the city’s best DJs on W Bangkok’s stylish Wet deck. See page 7.

!6 Getting pampered with a fresh and light organic treatment at Panpuri. See page 30.

@1 Splashing and dancing with locals for three straight days on Silom Road, the hub of Bangkok’s Thai New Year celebrations. See page 6.

!7 Refueling with an earthy, sweet cold-brew coffee at Rocket—the perfect afternoon pick-me-up. See page 7.

where in the world Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com ASIA Thailand, Singapore, Hong Kong

UNITED STATES Alaska & Yukon, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Georgia, Indianapolis, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Minneapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, New York, Northern Virginia, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, South Florida, St. Louis, Washington D.C.

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