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SEPTEMBER 2015 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO ®
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Fall Fashion Finds Best of Phrom Phong
HANG WITH THE LOCALS
The top new bars and cafes for delicious food and drinks YOUR ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO BANGKOK’S HOT SPOTS COVER_SEP_2015_2.indd 1
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ADVERTORIAL
HOW TO SPEND THE PERFECT AFTERNOON AT O.P. GARDEN You’ve visited all the historic landmarks on your list and Bangkok’s blistering heat is starting to wear you down. But you don’t need to head back to your hotel just yet—the Charoenkrung area offers so much more to explore. At O.P. Garden, you can view artwork, dine on classic Thai dishes or simply relax with a coffee. Here are our favorite things to do in these historic grounds.
STROLL THROUGH THE COMPOUND’S VARIOUS BOUTIQUES
VIEW BOTH CONTEMPORARY AND HISTORIC THAI ARTWORK
Located in a heritage building, this open-air shopping mall houses a retail strip where you’ll find five restored post-colonial-style shop-houses built during the reign of King Rama V (18681910). These are now home to an array of boutiques offering souvenirs such as individually designed handicrafts, home decor pieces and custom-made jewelry.
Among the handful of art spaces in this beautiful compound is Serindia Gallery, which showcases fine arts, photography and literature depicting a rich confluence of culture, history and art. Sink into one of Serindia’s publications after taking in one of their powerful exhibitions and leave the museum with a newfound knowledge of Thailand. Then, stop by ATTA Gallery, the city’s only gallery specializing in contemporary art jewelry, and maybe even score some unique gifts for yourself.
ENJOY A HEARTY MEAL… OR GRAB A QUICK BITE For a delicious and filling lunch, visit Mango Tree, one of Thailand’s oldest restaurants. Here, you can sample a vast selection of dishes from all four regions of the country while sitting on a nicely styled outdoor terrace. Alternatively, grab an iced coffee or cocktail at The Pacertique Cafe & Wine Room to recharge from your busy morning activities.
WIND DOWN IN THE COOL BREEZE OR THE SALON Tucked behind O.P. Garden’s historic shop-houses is a courtyard boasting a peaceful garden with a spacious grassy area and pool—the perfect spot to end your day, catching up with friends or spending quality family time. Have plans later in the night? Drop into one of the hair and beauty salons on-site for a post-retail pampering session
O.P. GARDEN SHOPPING PLACE, CHAROENKRUNG SOI 36 Tel. 0 2235 8865 Fax. 0 2235 8866 www.opthai.com
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CONTENTS where
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l THAILAND l SEPTEMBER 2015
The Guide BANGKOK
24 NIGHTLIFE The very best of Bangkok's many rooftop bars, plus some of the coolest new spots in town.
6
25 DINING The tastiest spots for dim sum, a Bangkok street food 101 and an inventive Mexican tapas spot.
LAID-BACK LOCALES
28 EXHIBITIONS
The hottest spots for Bangkok residents looking for a casual dinner and drinks.
The hottest exhibitions in Bangkok's galleries this month.
SHOPPING
29 SHOPS+SERVICES
10 NEW IN STORE Bangkok's fashion designers are some of the best in Asia, and they've just launched their new collections. Here's where to find them.
Discover Bangkok's best Thai craft designers, and where to shop for their work.
30 HEALTH+WELLNESS Where to get classic Thai wellness treatments, whether in a modern or traditional setting.
AROUND THAILAND 14 TEEING OFF
Golfers take note: here's what you need to know about the world-class courses from North to South.
14
31 ATTRACTIONS Bangkok's top cultural performances, from championship Muay Thai to flamboyant stage shows.
16 NEWS New openings and cultural happenings from around the country.
32 NAVIGATE
EXPLORING
Essential tips on getting around.
18 UPPER SILOM
18 General Manager Andrew Hiransomboon
Hindu temples converge with high-flying cocktail bars, classic street food and inventive Thai restaurants in this booming part of Bangkok.
ALSO INSIDE
20 SUKHUMVIT SOIS 31-49
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Two swanky shopping malls provide the biggest luxury names in the world, while the back streets are home to delicious Asian eats and low-key bars.
34 21 THINGS WE LOVE
Staff Writer Pinnyada Tanitnon
Editor-in-Chief/Product Director Grégoire Glachant
Contributors Vasachol Quadri, Lily Kittisrikangwan, Natcha Saguankiattichai
Managing Editor Oliver Irvine Deputy Editor Carl Dixon
Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai
Regional Marketing Manager Pavida Chitprasertsuk Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Art Director Dechart Sangsawang Senior Designer Panita Thiraphapong
Distribution Executive Suda Angsuputiphant
MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP | EXECUTIVE Vice President, Operations Donna Kessler Vice President, Operational Innovation Russ Leseberg Director Of Marketing Lynn Basinger
MVP | NATIONAL SALES Director Of National Sales And Custom Publishing Anthony Karwoski National Sales Managers Jennifer O'loughlin, Julie Humeas, Monica Weeks, Wanda Garcia-Fetherston
National Traffic Coordinator Leleah Robinson
E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris. Com
MVP | CARTOGRAPHY AND CIRCULATION General Manager, Where Maps Christopher Huber
On the cover Tep Bar
MORRIS COMUNICATIONS Chairman & Ceo William S. Morris III President William S. Morris IV
Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 22/F, Silom Center 2 Silom Road, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: where@asia-city.co.th facebook.com/wherethailand
HOT DATES
www.wherethailand.com
MVP | CREATIVE Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson Editorial Director, Visitor Guides Don Hoffman
Design Director Jane Frey Editorial Director, Custom Publishing Linda Chase Creative Coordinator Beverley Mandelblatt
MVP | TECHNOLOGY & MANUFACTURING Director Of Manufacturing Donald Horton E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.Com
@where_thailand
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HOT DATES
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SEP 23, 8:30PM
BE AMUSED
Making their Bangkok debut this month are the British rock band Muse, who’ll be stopping in Thailand before heading to Beijing, Singapore, Hong Kong and Seoul as a part of their Asian tour. Their fusion of progressive rock and electronica has drawn comparisons to Radiohead and earned them eight NME Awards. Expect classic hits from their debut Showbiz all the way through to the latest singles from Drones. Impact Arena, Muang Thong Thani, 99 Popular Rd. Tickets are B2,000-5,000, available on www.thaiticketmajor.com
SEP 21-22, 7PM
SEP 1-31
SEP 11-OCT 18, 7:30PM
SEP 13, 10AM
It may be the fourth time Maroon 5 have performed in Bangkok, but that hasn’t stopped them from selling out two shows in a row for their V World Tour. Confirmed to open for Adam Levine and Co. are Dirty Loops, the three-piece Stockholm-based band known for their inventive covers of hit songs like “Just Dance” and “Rolling in the Deep.” Thanks to the group’s countless hits on the Billboard charts, this is easily Bangkok’s biggest concert of 2015.
Museum Route is a free program that takes you to museums around the city for a day via minivan, and allows you to explore the city at your own pace. Buses run every 20 minutes from 10am-6pm every weekend. Stops include King Prajadhipok Museum, Rattanakosin Exhibition Hall, and the Ratchadamnoen Contemporary Art Center.
This month sees the launch of Bangkok’s 17th International Festival of Dance & Music. Some of the highlights include: Zhejiang Yur Opera Troupe’s The Butterfly Lovers, Ballet Flamenco of Andalucia’s Images - 20 Years, Novosibirsk Ballet Theatre’s Swan Lake, Mandarin Ballet Biarritz’s Cinderella and music performances by The Prague Symphony Orchestra and Samara State Symphony Orchestra. For the complete schedule, see www.bangkokfestivals.com.
Photo Bangkok 2015 is a new festival that gathers contemporary art spaces around the city. As part of the festivities, the organizers are hosting a one-day International Photography Symposium, featuring talks by Hossein Farmani on the “Economy of Photography,” Shane Suvikapakornkul on “Photobook Making,” Michiko Kasahara on “Japanese Photographic Museum,” and Esther Ruelfs on “The New Digital Collecting and the Analogue Museum Collections.” Seat reservations at 02-898-6584 and exh_activity@bacc.or.th.
SUGAR RUSH
Impact Arena, Muang Thong Thani, 99 Popular Rd.
MUSEUM ROUTE
Bangkok Metropolitan Administration, Bangkok City Hall, 173 Dinso Rd., 02-221-2142. www.facebook.com/ kingprajadhipokmuseum
JUST DANCE
Thailand Cultural Center, Ratchadaphisek Rd., 02-247-0028. MRT Thailand Cultural Center. Tickets range from B800-4,500, available on www. thaiticketmajor.com
SNAP SHOTS
5/F, Bangkok Art and Culture Center, Rama 1 Rd. Free. BTS National Stadium
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DINING
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TEP BAR
TAPER
MEET THE LOCALS
It has been an incredible 12 months for Bangkok’s fine-dining scene (see box, page 7), but there’s also a gfresh batch of smaller, hip eateries that cater to those who’d rather have an easygoing evening with friends but still enjoy delicious, flavorful and inventive dishes prepared by some of the city’s best chefs. By Pinnyada Tanitnon TAPER
TEP BAR
TAPER
Located in the crumbling streets of the upand-coming Charoenkrung area, this restored shop-house has plenty of raw appeal, emphasized with mood lighting and simple wooden tables. Here, you’ll find potent cocktails mixed with Thai fruits, herbs and spices. There’s also a good line of home-infused ya-dong (Thai herbal whiskey), with options ranging from sweet honeycomb to one with a more floral flavor. Hungry? The bar specializes in what they call “Thai tapas,” though there are also classics like pad Thai available. Come nightfall, you’ll be able to enjoy your meal while Thai musicians take the stage to play traditional music from the Central region.
The brainchild of Le Du’s (see box) Thitid Tassanakajohn and his classmate at the Culinary Institute of America, chef Tatchapol Choomduang, this restaurant serves Asianinspired breakfast and lunch recipes such as the popular Vietnamese duck confit spicy bahn mi sandwich. Almost everything is made in-house, including the freshly baked biscuits and pasta, which is served in Asianstyle dishes like the salted-egg carbonara and Isaan sausage olio. There isn’t a breakfast cocktail menu, however you can choose from drinks ranging from coffee to slowpressed juice.
69-71 Soi Nana, Mitrjit Rd., 098-467-2944. Open Tue-Thu 5pm-midnight; Fri-Sun 5pm-1am. MRT Hua Lamphong
G/F, 44/11 Thonglor Soi 13, 099-929-5464. Open Tue-Sun 9am-4pm. BTS Thong Lo
TEP BAR
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DINING BAAN
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SOULBAR
Also led by Thitid Tassanakajohn (see box), this restaurant goes for a relaxed, familygathering vibe in a chic and grown-up setting. Here, you’ll find home-style Thai dishes crafted with quality local produce. Try the signature kai palo tom sab (spicy five-spice egg soup), and the dry stir-fried minced dry-aged beef with holy basil, which comes with an interesting aroma of cumin. When it comes to drinking, expect street vendor-inspired cocktails brewed with local spirits such as the cha manao (tea-infused Lamoon rum and lime). There’s also a wine list curated by the chef, who’s a certified sommelier.
Set in a two-unit shop-house near the river, the chef couple behind Bo.lan’s (see box) newest project is rustic and nostalgic. The dishes here are designed to go well with drinks, such as the chicken satay with brioche and naem (Northern-style garlic and sticky rice cured pork), but there are some serious meal options, too. Drinks are crafted with Thai spirits like the Waan Noi (Maa Jai Dam banana spirit, shade grown coffee and coffee liqueur).
Tucked in a small shop-house down in the old Talad Noi neighhborhood, this simple but tastefully turned out bar plays host to live soul and funk bands every Tue-Sat. If the crammed band room is too jumping for you, there’s a more laid-back lounge and terrace upstairs. Drop by for the daily happy hours (6-8pm)—our pick is the Summer Beer (mint chocolate kombucha and half a pint of draft beer).
139/5 Wireless Rd., 02-655-8995. Open Mon, WedSun 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-10:30pm
SMALLS This laid-back late-night cocktail lounge is set in a shop-house split over three levels including a rooftop terrace with really great views. The crowd is usually eclectic and slightly older, keen to come and listen to jazz while nursing a properly poured drink. Though that’s not to say the party doesn’t get going when younger guests pour in later in the night. The bar’s specialty: absinthe. 186/3 Suanphlu Soi 1, 095-585-1398. Open Mon, Wed-Sun 8:30pm-2am
394/55 Maharaj Rd., Open Tue-Sun 11am-midnight
945 Charoenkrung Rd., 095-521-1541. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-midnight. MRT Hua Lamphong
JUNKER AND BAR
MARCEL
The compact, galley space recently expanded its laid-back party atmosphere to the space next door, meaning it’s now easy to get a seat at this burger and cocktail bar. One of the owners is a former cocktail waiter at the W Hotel, and he’s big on using both locally brewed spirits and his own homeinfused concoctions. There’s also a rotating line of Thai-made craft beers available, such as Pheebok’s Haunting Charming pale ale. Food-wise, try the strictly-knife-and-fork Australian wagyu burger and lamb burger.
Run by a French-Thai couple, this newcomer to one of the city’s hippest areas specializes in small plates and cocktails. The drinks are all named after late French writers, such as the Cocteau (gin, passion fruit, fresh lime and honey garnished with fresh mint leaves). As for the small plates, try the egg parmesan or the beef tatare, which comes with wonderful matchstick fries. Sathorn Soi 10. Open Tue-Fri 6pm-midnight; Sat-Sun 11:30am-midnight. BTS Chong Nonsi
454 Suanphlu Soi 1, 085-100-3608. Open Tue-Sun noon-midnight.
OPPOSITE MESS HALL September might be your last chance to try this soon-to-close hipster foodie institution. Located in a petite, second-floor space of an old building, Opposite’s kitchen whips up delightfully inventive yet rustic dishes like pork terrine with pistachios and the Spanish-style tortilla with trout and potato. 2/F, 27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-662-6330. Open daily 6:30-11pm. BTS Thong Lo MARCEL
SMOKIN’ PUG A local favorite, thanks to the reasonablypriced, well-crafted menu of smoky meats and equally smoky cocktails. Tuck into giant plates of pulled-pork chili with cornbread, babyback ribs or mac and cheese. To drink we recommend the whiskey sour, made with Wild Turkey Kentucky Bourbon. 88 Surawong Rd., 083-029-7598. Open Tue-Sun 5pmmidnight. MRT Sam Yan SMOKIN’ PUG
ERR
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MAD MOA Located in a tiny Old Town shop-house, Mad Moa is a tiki-themed pub serving simple yet satisfying dishes like the Aussie wagyupacked Mad Moa Burger that comes with a homemade brioche bun and chipotle mayo. The three-day slow cooked ribs with lemon and herbs are also highly recommended. When it comes to drinking, the restaurant specializes in rum-heavy cocktails that rotate daily, as well as a line of under-the-counter home brewed beers that you won’t find on the menu. BAAN
211/17 Chakkaphatdipong Rd., 085-155-2601. Open Tue-Sun 6-11pm
STUDIO LAM This super-hip spot pairs global beats with quality drinks. Linked to local DJ Maft Sai’s Zudrangma Records label, the music is stuck on an eclectic mix of world beats from molam (Thai country music) to ’70s Ethiopian jams. The space may look fairly basic, bearing the remnants of an old Japanese restaurant, but the stars of the show are a specially designed custom tube sound system and an exciting list of ya dong (traditional herbal Thai white spirit).
SMALLS
Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-261-6661. Open Tue-Sun 6pm1am. BTS Thong Lo JUNKER AND BAR
STUDIO LAM
OUR FAVORITE FINE-DINING RESTAURANTS Bangkok’s top-ranked culinary masters
Nahm
Bo.Lan
Gaggan
Le Du
David Thompson’s Nahm serves fiery, multi-course set menus that offer devoutly authentic flavors and plenty of choice. We use the word “course” loosely, as this is true, communal Thaistyle dining. Try the salad of fresh river prawns with pork and Asian pennywort, and the perfectly balanced coconut and turmeric curry of blue swimmer crab served with kanom jin (traditional Thai rice noodles).
Chef couple Bo and Dylan make all their Thai food from scratch, including the curry pastes, using only the best ingredients. Their traditional style jazzed up with a few modern plating touches has earned them global recognition. We recommend the Bo.Lan balance, a degustation menu that regularly changes to reflect seasonal products.
After building a solid foundation in Indian and Italian cooking at hotel restaurants, Gaggan Anand did a brief stint at the research facility of El Bulli, the former modern-gastro capital of the world. His eponymous restaurant serving molecular Indian cooking ranked No. 1 in Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2015. Expect the unexpected like foams, spherification, dehydration and more alongside traditional dishes of Indian curry.
A Thai chef with a degree from the Culinary Institute of America powers this inventive Asian restaurant. His dishes focus heavily on local and seasonal produce, which are prepared using modern cooking techniques to produce original and delicious food that clearly evokes Thai flavors while challenging diners’ senses. The wine list is equally exciting, with bottles sourced only from organic producers of boutique importers.
68/1 Lang Suan Rd., 02-652-1700. Open daily 6pm-midnight. BTS Ratchadamri
399/3 Silom Soi 7, 092-919-9969. Open Mon-Sat 6-11pm. BTS Chong Nonsi
Metropolitan, 27 Sathorn Rd., 02-6253388. Open daily 7-10:30pm; Mon-Fri noon-2pm
24 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-260-2961-2. Open Tue-Sun 6-11; Thu-Sun noon2:30pm. BTS Thong Lo
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FEATURE MILIN
TAYLOR TOP
OLAUDIA SHORT
GRAPHITE VELVET BETA DRESS
INNER MOD JUMPSUIT
LOCAL LUXE
POEM
Thailand’s top 10 designers reveal their fall/winter 2015-2016 collections, new in store this September. By Vasachol Quadri
MILIN
SRETSIS
The self-titled womenswear brand of society girl Milin Yuvacharuskul has been known since 2009 for its ultra-sexy designs that are now imitated by dozens of other Bangkok brands. Her style sticks to glamorous-but-revealing pieces with a party sensibility. Milin’s fall/ winter collection traces back to London of the 1960s, with mini and maxi dresses, shorts, wide-legged trousers, jumpsuits and sleeveless long jackets. Polka dots, checks and flower embroidery play a big part too, creating a
Founded in 2002, the brand is a collaborative project between the three Sukhahuta sisters (the brand name is sisters spelled backwards). Today, it’s one of the country’s leading fashion houses, best known for designs with an adventurous, bohemian and sweet edge. Every piece from Sretsis has a dreamy quality—think printed maxi dresses in safari color—but some street fashion adaptations can also be expected. The fall/winter 2015 collection is called Sretsis Labyrinth, referring to the imaginary journey inside the unknown forest of the Sretsis girls, accompanied by mutant animals and trees. Flower embroidery and foxes made from ludo fur are key details used throughout.
cheerful mood in a pastel color palette. Y Taylor top, price TBA Y Olaudia shorts, price TBA Y Dionne dress, price TBA Y Inner Mod jumpsuit, price TBA 3/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1134. BTS Siam. www.milin.com
BLACK AND WHITE BIG BANG SKIRT
POEM
2/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-1605874. BTS Phloen Chit. www.sretsis.com
Founded in 2006 by Chavanon Caisiri, Poem is a womenswear brand that utilizes traditional French dressmaking in contemporary design. The designer says his inspiration relies heavily on the ‘40s-’50s, and women like Audrey Hepburn and Marlene Dietrich. The fall/winter collection, Sonnet of Starlight, is sweet, feminine and strong, mixing 1950s hourglass patterns with casual materials like polyester. The folding skirt is our must-have item. Y Black and white Big Bang skirt, B9,590 Y Graphite velvet Beta dress, B14,000 Y Black and white cotton Radiowave knit-
dress, B6,590 2/F, Emquartier, 689 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-269-1000. BTS Phrom Phong. www.poembangkok.com
GREYHOUND ORIGINAL The brand started out with menswear during the 1980s before launching its women’s line some 10 years later. Under head designer Bhanu Inkawat, it has become known for modern, minimal wear that blends the line between formal and casual. Both the men’s and women’s
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collections have a playful streak, with irregular patterns and prints that dare to be bold. The fall/ winter collection, Collage History, celebrates the brand’s 35th anniversary by playing with previous collections’ patterns but mixing them with different fabrics like a paper collage. Y Collage shirt in white, B3,595 Y Double breasted blazer, B11,995 Y Fringe transparent top, B5,995 COLLAGE SHIRT IN WHITE
Y Fringe transparent skirt, B7,195 2/F, Emporium, 622 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-644-8664. BTS Phrom Phong. www.greyhound.co.th
ASAVA Designer Polpat Asavaprapha founded his selftitled brand in 2008, putting the focus on elegant and timeless womenswear. The designer draws a lot of his inspiration from the United States, and this year’s fall/winter collection looks to Manhattan and how its residents seek out the best of everything.
Y Blue blazers, price TBA Y White trousers, price TBA Y Drop shoulder top, price TBA 2/F, Emquartier. 689 Sukhumvit Rd., 099-058-4690. BTS Phrom Phong. www.asavagroup.com
PAINKILLER This menswear brand has a bold, fashion-forward sensibility, but aims to create pieces which men can still potentially wear every day. The fall/winter collection, Optical Illusion, plays with optical art, adding new graphics to old pieces to give them a more fun attitude. Y Stairs jumper, B2,480 Y Stripes shirt, B2,880 Y Wave sweatshirt, B2,480 3/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1145. BTS Siam. www.facebook.com/painkiller
DOUBLE BREASTED BLAZER
GREYHOUND ORIGINAL
PAINKILLER
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KLOSET Playful daily wear best known for its girly prints and pastel colors, even in boyish pieces like shorts, pants and jumpsuits. Many of the brand’s collections mix in ‘60s-70s influences, making it a top pick for Bangkok’s vintage lovers. The fall/winter ’15 Written All Over Your Face collection is inspired by the song “Love is a Losing Game” by Amy Winehouse. Cliched elements like XO prints and a queen playing cards are mixed with Winehouse lyrics and other quotes, while the bold colors stick to red, blue, black and white.
LYRICS TOP
SENADA
Y Pink off-shoulder short dress, B8,850 Y Lyrics skirt, B6,850 Y Lyrics top, B6,450 3/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1729. BTS Siam. www.klosetdesign.com LYRICS SKIRT
KLOSET
CURATED BY EK THONGPRASERT
SENADA Founded by designer Chanita Preechawitayakul, Senada is an eclectic mixture of womenswear that covers vintage romance, ethnic charm and savvy street style—think contemporary urbanized Indian embroidery, Chinese silks, and Thai patterns. Her fall/winter 2015 collection, The Flare de la Fleur, recreates vintage flower dresses of 1970s, but uses contemporary details like blurred floral prints, stitching methods and progressive 3D draping. 3/F, Siam Center., Rama 1 Rd., 02-252-2757. BTS Siam. www.senadatheory.com
CURATED BY EK THONGPRASERT Curated is a men’s and women’s wear brand founded by designer Ek Thongprasert. The brand’s signature design tends towards unisex style, adding boyish cuts to women’s pieces and feminine details to menswear. Fall/winter ‘15 takes inspiration from Daneil Arsham’s The Future is Always Now exhibiton as well as author Haruki Murakami’s novel 1Q84. African culture also plays a large part, with ethnic prints, embroidery details and an earth-tone palette for both sexes. 3/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1705. BTS Siam. www.curated.co.th 12 W H E R E T H A I LAND I S EPTEMB ER 2 0 1 5
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Local guides. Worldwide.
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AROUND THAILAND
TEEING OFF
The top golf courses across Thailand. By Pinnyada Tanitnon
TOSCANA VALLEY
HUA HIN
BLACK MOUNTAIN GOLF CLUB Located in a valley, this par-3 course features a body of water at every hole, so serious golfers can rest assured that each of their shots will require maximum concentration, skill and precision. Apart from the main course, there is also a clubhouse with an open-air restaurant and sky bar, as well as state-of-the-art practice facilities. RED MOUNTAIN GOLF CLUB
565 Moo 7, Nong Hieng Rd., Hin Lekfai, 081-7632200. www.blackmountainhuahin.com
BANYAN GOLF CLUB
TOSCANA VALLEY
BANYAN GOLF CLUB
KHAO YAI
RANCHO CHARNVEE RESORT AND COUNTRY CLUB This country club boasts a horseshoe shaped 18-hole, 72-par golf course dotted with bunkers, lakes, greens and fairways to make for a challenging game suitable for all levels. Here, you’ll be able to play amid beautiful views of Khao Yai’s lush forests and at cooler temperatures than Thailand’s low central plains. Apart from golf, there is also a horse ranch, restaurants, a hotel, gym, pool and even its very own private airfield.
TOSCANA VALLEY Tucked inside a prestigious Italian-style residential community, this 18-hole golf course comes with a scenic backdrop of the northern boundary of the Khao Yai National Park, surrounded by the praa kradaad limestone cliffs. The clubhouse also offers a panoramic view of the course, along with equestrian facilities and beautiful accommodation options.
This 18-hole course combines an elevated location and great views for a laid-back yet competitive venue. Built on a former pineapple farm, you will still see preserved pineapple trees along the course as well as pineapple-shaped teeing grounds to give the course some flair. Set close to the ocean, Banyan Golf Club is surrounded by spectacular views, particularly on the signature 15th hole, where you’ll be greeted with a view of the ocean and islands behind the thick trees. There’s also a Thai-style clubhouse, exclusive golf accommodation, pro shop as well as a restaurant and bar. 68/35 Mooban Hua Na, Nong Gae, 032-616-200. www.banyanthailand.com
2 Moo 11, Bannenthong Pongtalone, Pak Chong, 02-745-6999. www.toscanavalley.com
T322 Moo 12, Khanongphra, Pak Chong, 044-756-210. www, charnveeresortkhaoyai.com BANYAN GOLF CLUB
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CHIANG MAI
PHUKET
ALPINE GOLF RESORT
RED MOUNTAIN GOLF CLUB
Chiang Mai’s first private golf club still remains a popular option for visitors, despite the recent opening of newer courses. The 18-hole course is tucked amid the hilly Sankampaeng Natural Forests, surrounded by beautiful golden teakwood trees and dipterocarpus alastus.
Located in the beautiful Katha district, this former tin mining site retains its large variety of landforms and elevation changes for a challenging 18-hole course. For some unique flair, Red Mountain still preserves traces of the tin mine. There is also a restaurant, on-course food and beverage kiosks and a pro shop.
336 Moo 4, Huay Yab, Banthi, 053-880-888. www. alpinegolfresort.com
119 Moo 4, Vichitsongkram Rd., Kathu, 076-322-000. www.mbkgolf.com/redmountain
MAE JOE GOLF CLUB
BLUE CANYON COUNTRY CLUB
This 18-hole golf club offers superb views of Doi Inthanon, one of Thailand’s tallest mountains. The signature 14th hole is undoubtedly one of the most spectacular in the country. Once the day’s golfing is over, relax at the Lanna-style clubhouse or visit the driving range, pro shop, swimming pool, restaurant and spa. 112 Moo 7, Ban Sriboonruang Pahpai, 053-354-431. www.maejogolf.com
Home to a canyon course surrounded by water and towering trees, Blue Canyon not only provides stunning views, but also tests golfers’ accuracy with slopes and bunkers. The country club comes equipped with facilities designed for maximum comfort, such as a golfer’s terrace, restaurant, cafe and spa.
ALPINE GOLF RESORT
165 Moo 1, Thepkasattri Rd., Thalang, 076-328-088. www.bluecanyonclub.com RED MOUNTAIN GOLF CLUB
FULL SWING Where the local golfing experts go Ron Harvey Jr. (Former Touring Golf Pro: PGA Nationwide Tour, Asian Tour, owner of Training Ground Bangkok) “Hua Hin is a great town for golf. A lot of professional golfers, both local and international, base themselves there because the town itself is abundant in quality golf courses. If you stay in town, it’s a very smooth commute out to the courses, although it is also equally convenient for visitors because most courses provide on-site accommodation. A course I like to go to when I’m out there is Black Mountain Golf Club. It’s nice and open, with a lot of elevated space on the course.”
Pavin Chayavivatkul (Golfer at Stanford University) “One of my favorite golfing destinations outside of Bangkok is Khao Yai, mainly for its great golfing atmosphere, along with the number of quality golf courses out there. Toscana Valley is by far my favorite golf course because the layout is very interesting—every hole can be a top signature hole and the upkeep is always well done. Apart from Khao Yai, Chiang Mai is also home to many beautiful courses, while the windy weather in Hua Hin brings forth a different style of golf that I enjoy.”
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AROUND THAILAND PATTAYA
THE LATEST OPENINGS AND HAPPENINGS AROUND THE KINGDOM
SPA CAFE Taking its name from the Latin saying salus per alimentum (meaning good health by food), Spa Cafe serves food and drink with a healthy angle, such as the SPA coffee, which is made with soymilk and flavored with fragrant ingredients like orange peel and cinnamon, which is said to alleviate muscle pain and spasms. Even the black honey toast is made using health-conscious ingredients like Japanese bamboo charcoal, which is believed to clean bacteria from your digestive tract. You’ll also find it in the black beef burger and black spaghetti salmon. BAAN KHANG WAT
571/32 Moo 5 Soi Naklua 16/2, 095-949-7132. Open daily 8am-midnight. goo.gl/UcnsvN
CHIANG MAI
BAAN KHANG WAT At this community mall, vendors must be conscientious businesses who give back to society through their crafts and products. The wooden-and-concrete houses offer the likes of Japanese-style craft shop Jibberish, cafe-cum-guesthouse Enough for Life, ceramic shop Bookoo Studio and library-plus-cafe Mahasamut.
GRAPH TABLE
Opposite Wat Ram Poeng Rd., 095-691-0888. Open daily 10am-6pm
GRAPH TABLE
BOOKHEMUAN 252
BOOKHEMIAN 252
PHUKET
TU KAB KHAO
BOOKHEMIAN 252
The team behind local Thai-fusion restaurant Table Spoon transformed a 120-yearold building into a villa-like eatery serving Southern recipes. In addition to classics like the moo hong (braised pork belly) and mee gaeng pu (crab curry with noodles), they also have handsome cocktails like Baba-Nyonya, which plays on Peranakan culture by mixing two glasses into one drink, symbolizing the inter-marriage between Chinese men and Malaya ladies.
This bookstore in a Sino-Portuguese shophouse recently underwent a major renovation to include a dessert and coffee counter serving single-origin drip coffee from Bangkok’s most reputed roasters. Their backyard has retained its crumbling walls, and serves as an event space for art exhibitions, workshops with local writers and cinema nights. They also hold the occasional craft fair selling products from both local and Chiang Mai craftspeople.
8 Phang-nga Rd., 076-608-888. Open daily 11ammidnight. www.facebook.com/tukabkhao
61 Thalang Rd., 098-090-0657. Open daily Mon-Fri 9am-7pm, Sat-Sun 9am-8:30pm. www.facebook. com/bookhemian
Not far from the tiny but popular Graph Cafe (www.facebook.com/graphcafe.chiangmai) in Chiang Mai’s Old Town, the restaurant welcomes you with a dark-hued wooden facade, window boxes and hanging plants. The kitchen serves fresh homemade Italian cuisine with organic local produce such as free-range eggs from a farm in Lamphun. For breakfast expect artfully named egg dishes such as Monet (mashed avocado on salsa salad), Post Modern (eggs Benedict with deboned emilano ham on toast) or Moonmuang (poached egg on toast with baked beans and grilled mushroom). They also serve salads, garlic bread and lasagna along with classic pizzas and pastas. Of course, you’re still guaranteed a good cup of coffee, too. Moonmuang Soi 6, Sriphoom, 086-561-3330. Open daily 9am-6pm. www.facebook.com/graphtable
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UPPER SILOM Silom Road starts at Lumpini Park and stops just one block short of the Chao Phraya River. The road’s first half is notorious for Soi Patpong, a collection of go-go bars and fake watch stalls. But the bottom half has recently undergone a revival, with a host of edgy bars and restaurants joining the area’s long-standing galleries.
U.N.C.L.E.
NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES 18 UPPER SILOM
20 SUKHUMVIT 31-49
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UPPER SILOM Y SPOTLIGHT
@1 Bangkok
Art Galleria
Head to floors 4 and 5 of Bangkok’s jewelry trading hub, the Jewelry Trade Center, for four of the city’s best galleries. 919/1 Silom Soi 19. 02-630-0979
Tang Contemporary Art With its two branches in China, Tang is Bangkok’s art scene top dog. Through Oct 4, the gallery is showing “The World III in The Third World”. 02-630-1114. Open Tue-Sat 11am-7pm
NEW
CVN
MARCEL
This casual French bar in the swinging Sathorn Soi 10 neighborhood is run by three guys with previous experience working at restaurants and bars in Paris. On the ground floor is a bar which serves cocktails and tapas like pork terrine, beef balls and camembert cromesqui, while upstairs is a proper restaurant. Expect to be drinking alongside the young, international art and fashion crowd.
CVN is more of an art dealer, so no rotating exhibitions here. Bring a few million baht for a Thawan Duchanee, but prices start from much lower than that. 02-630-2251. Open Mon-Sat 11am7pm
@3 Sathorn Soi 10 , 02-635-3533. Open Tue-Fri 6pm-midnight; Sat-Sun 11:30am-midnight
CULTURE One of Silom’s most colorful landmarks, 1 Mahamariamman Temple (Wat Khaek) (between Pan Rd. and Silom Soi 17, 02-238-4007) feels
gallery. Its exhibitions focus on social issues, urbanization and the country’s photographic heritage—well worth a regular visit. Nearby, 3 H Gallery (201 Sathorn Soi 12, 085-021-5508) is set in a beautiful, late-19th century, wooden building where Brian Curtin curates exhibitions by emerging contemporary Asian artists. Also visit the Jewelry Trade Center, which is also home to some of the city’s best galleries (see box).
LUNCH AND COFFEE KATHMANDO PHOTO GALLERY
4 Blue Elephant (233 Sathorn Rd., 02-673-9353) is one of the most
more like it belongs in India than downtown Bangkok. Built during the 19th century by Tamil immigrants, it is one of the main non-Buddhist places of worship in the capital. The area is also bustling with galleries. Just around the corner, Manit Sriwanichpoom’s 2 Kathmandu Photo Gallery (87 Pan Rd., 02-234-6700) is Bangkok’s preeminent photography
well-established Thai restaurants in town, serving authentic royal Thai cuisine from a beautiful old house. Lessformal is the wonderfully idiosyncratic 5 Foo Mui Kee (10-12 Prachum Rd., 02-234-6648), an 80-year-old shophouse restaurant serving Western dishes with a distinctly Chinese influence. For some good coffee and a fuss-free meal, head over to 6 Rocket (149 Sathorn Soi 12, 02-635-0404), a cafe that keeps things simple with omelets, homemade granola and salami and cheese focaccia sandwiches. Another great lunch venue is 7 Dean and Deluca (G/F, The Cube, Mahanakhon, 02-234-1434), with a deli and cafe on the ground floor serving warm sandwiches, salads, pasta and pizza by the slice. Our pick for delicious Thai street food is Wat Khaek Market (see box).
HEALTH AND WELLNESS ROCKET
Located inside the W Bangkok hotel is the vibrant 8 Away Spa (6/F, W Bangkok, 106 Sathorn Rd., 02-344-
Number1 Gallery Young and fresh, with a selection of exciting emerging artists, this gallery’s price tags in the tens of thousands remain reasonable. 02-630-2523. Open Mon-Sat 11am7pm
Thavibu Gallery Representing big names like Vasan Sithiket and Navin Rawanchaikul, Thavibu is another highly-regarded gallery. 02-266-5454. Open Mon-Sat 11am7pm
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EXPLORING
UPPER SILOM young Thai chef; and next door’s !2Namsaah Bottling Trust (401 Silom Soi 7, 02-636-6622) offers whimsical takes on Asian comfort food and strong cocktails in a charming 100-year-old house. The area is also home to plenty of upscale options, among them !3 The House on Sathorn (106 Sathorn Rd., 02344-4000), one of the hottest new tables in town (see page TK), and !4 Scarlett Wine Bar & Restaurant (see Nightlife, page TK). Head over to The Cube, Mahanakhon and you’ll find two other major restaurants: !5 Vogue Lounge (6/F, The Cube, Mahanakhon, 02-001-0697) and !6 L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon (5/F, 02001-0698) by the chef with the most Michelin stars in the world. For drinks and casual bites, head to Sathorn sois 10-12, which is thriving with new bars including !7 Le Cafe des Stagiaires (see page 24) and !8 Revolucion (50 Sathorn Soi 10, 02-235-4823) For later nights, check out !9 Ku De Ta (39/F, Sathorn Square Complex, t Oso 02-108-2000), the Bangkok branch tha Put of Asia’s high-end clubbing brand, or the colonial Shanghai-themed @0 Maggie Choo’s (UG/F, Novotel Fenix Silom, 02-635-6055).
4160), a swanky spa with a dim, labyrinthine halls lit with LED lights to provide a relaxing and playful mood. The spa specializes in treatments ranging from massages to detox. For a more traditional setting, head over to 9Health Land (120 Sathorn Rd., 02-637-8880) for their popular traditional Thai whole-body or foot massage.
DRINKS AND DINING The Silom area is home to some of Bangkok’s best restaurants. !0 Lady Brett (149 Sathorn Soi 12, 02-6350405) has a cozy wooden-tiled vibe inspired by 20th century taverns, and a menu of simple barbecue dishes; !1Le Du (399/3 Silom Soi 7, 092-919-9969) is an inventive restaurant powered by a
LADY BRETT
Wat Khaek Market
The fresh market nestled by the Mahamariamman Temple is a popular
place for locals and expats to grab breakfast, lunch and dinner. Here, you’ll find basic Thai street dishes such as som tam (spicy papaya salad), moo-ping (grilled pork on a stick), noodle soup and Muslim curries. @2 Silom Rd., between soi 20 and 22. Open daily 6am-late
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!7 Le Cafe des Stagiaires !8 Revolucion !9 Ku De Ta @0 Maggie Choo’s @1 Jewelry Trade Center @2 Wat Khaek Market @3 Marcel
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SUKHUMVIT SOIS 31-49 Y SPOTLIGHT
Asian Flavors
From vibrant Lao salads to steaming bowls of Japanese ramen, the area is a hotbed of great Asian cuisine.
Thai Lao Yeh Fiery Lao and Northern Thai dishes in an elegant boutique hotel meant to evoke the home of an affluent family living somewhere in 1920s Asia. Just as importantly, all the ingredients feel incredibly fresh and service is impeccable.
@0 Cabochon Bangkok, 14/29 Sukhumvit Soi 45, 02-259-2871-3. Open daily 11am-2pm, 6-10:30pm. BTS Phrom Phong
NEW
ROCKET S 49
Decked in charming blond-wood furniture matched with marble and geometric lighting, this Scandinavian-style cafe specializes in Nordic classics such as gravlax (house-cured salmon) on dark rye. But if you come for dinner, try their slow-cooked salted pork belly with garlic mash, roast fennel, gravy and pomegranate and crispy duck confit. However, it’s their coffee that is the star here, with their bottled cold-press being the most popular option. 1 1/F, Piman 49, Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-662-6637. Open daily 7am-11pm. BTS Phrom Phong
S
This relaxed and homey restaurant serves sushi with a distinctively American twist, such as the Volcano (a spicy scallop served in its shell and which looks like a glowering mound of molten lava) as well as the traditional sushi platters.
@1 5 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-258-0645.
ukhumvit is one very long road (it stretches all the way to Cambodia). But one of its most happening areas is between soi (that’s Thai for streets) 31 and 49, a veritable warren of alleys packed with the city’s best art, crab curry, coffee and sake.
SHOPS AND GALLERIES Take the BTS to Phrom Phong station, and either side of the platform you’ll find two huge shopping malls, 2 Emquartier (637 Sukhumvit Rd., 02269-1000) and 3 Emporium (622 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-269-1000). Both are home to some of the world’s top luxury brands, from Prada to Dior. Emporium is also the site of 3 Thailand Creative and Design Center (6/F, The Emporium, 02-664-8448), the
Isao
Open daily 11am-2:15pm, 5:30-10pm. BTS Phrom Phong
DULY
THE ADLER SUBHASHOK GALLERY
country’s leading design museum, where you’ll find rotating exhibitions, a permanent collection of style icons from the Nintendo Gameboy to the Vespa, and a beautiful library overlooking Benjasiri Park. For exhibitions of contemporary fine art, head to 4 The Adler Subhashok Gallery (160/3 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-662-
0299), which has ambitions of making Thai art as big as Chinese art 10 years ago, and 5 Koi Art Gallery, showcasing works of emerging local artists. Also in the area is 6 Duly (Sukhumvit Soi 49, 2-6626647), one of the most sophisticated menswear brands in Thailand, selling ready-to-wear formal clothes as well as a tailoring service for suits and shirts. They provide a range of different options, from the buttons to the types of stitching and a huge choice of quality shirt fabrics.
Bankara Ramen This ramen favorite is known for its fatty tonkotsu broth, served with perfectly al dente noodles and various forms of intensely flavorful slow-cooked chashu. A cholesterol attack, yes, but definitely worth trying. The three-day-braised pork belly is delicious.
@2
The Manor, 32 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-622-5162/3. Open daily 11am-11pm
TCDC
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EXPLORING
SUKHUMVIT SOIS 31-49 LUNCH AND COFFEE For a spot of shopping and a cup of coffee, 7 Caffe What If (The Green Connect, 235/10 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-662-8048) sells decorative home items, craft beers and savory dishes. Their coffee beans are also excellent.
CAFFE WHAT IF
8 D’Ark (Piman 49, Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-662-7900) rolls out an all-day menu that spans pancakes, as well as soups and burgers using local ingredients. Also located in Piman 49 is 9 Kai Yang Sua Yai (02-662-6428), a Thai restaurant specializing in hearty Northeastern dishes.
HEALTH AND WELLNESS For a fun-filled morning in the water, head over to !0 Flow House (A Square, Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02108-5210), which is home to a giant wave machine that lets you try your hands at stand-up surfing and bodyboarding. There is also a plunge pool, a games area providing pool, ping pong, darts and foosbal facilities, and an on-site bar and cafe, too. After a morning on your feet, visit !1 Chillax Spa (12/1 Sukhumvit Soi 33, 02-258-5018) for some pampering. Apart from the usual Thai and aroma massages and body scrubs, this spa also specializes in rejuvenation therapies for heavy partygoers. Oh, and there’s even a bar. If nail treatment is what you’re after, check out !2 Ten Ten (593/2 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-2593510), where they promise to use only the best nail products from wellestablished brands such as OPI, Joico and Guinot.
Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-392-4313) uses modern techniques to transform wonderful produce into some of the most innovative Thai food around. Every mint leaf, every pickled chili is bursting with flavor. You can tell everything is homemade and, where possible, from locally-sourced ingredients. For Italian,
!4 Appia (20/4 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-261-2056) is firmly the city’s safest bet, offering authentically home-
SMITH
in the area, its neighbors include !6 Quince (Sukhumvit Soi 45, 02662-4478), where you can find Mediterranean-inspired food in a bright and airy dining room, and !7 Smith (1/8 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-261-0515-6), serving a noseto-tail-influenced menu in a moody and industrial setting. If upscale and contemporary is what you’re after, try !8 Aston Dining Room & Bar (68 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-102-2323). Here, you’ll find an inventive fivecourse chef’s table menu using only the best produce. After dinner, check out !9 Hanakaruta (36/4 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-662-7339), one of the best Japanese bars in town.
PEPPINA
style Roman cuisine, from rustic pastas to crispy roast pork. Just around the corner, you’ll find its casual sister, !5 Peppina (27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-119-7677), which does wonderful Naples-style pizza. One of a number of casual international restaurants
DINNER AND DRINKS Whether you want Thai, Western or Japanese, this is the spot to be. The Australian chef at !3 Paste (120/6
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NEW
THE HOUSE ON SATHORN
In what used to be the Soviet Embassy, this standalone outpost of the neighboring W Hotel has one of the most stunning dining rooms in town, artfully blending the building’s period details with considerate modern touches. Half of the restaurant’s 40 seats are at a long, wooden counter facing the kitchen, where the team turn out “new Asian cuisine.” Expect dishes with names like Hunting (duck breast lying on splashes of red pomegranate sauce and burnt onion powder as gunpowder) and The Red Parfait (foie gras torchon wrapped with beetroot jelly, served with brioche and aged balsamic vinegar). 106 Sathorn Rd., 02-344-4000. Open daily noon-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm. BTS Chong Nonsi
BANGKOK’S BEST VENUES 24 NIGHTLIFE 25 DINING
28 ART 29 SHOPS + SERVICES
30 HEALTH + WELLNESS 31 ATTRACTIONS
32 NAVIGATE
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GUIDE
NIGHTLIFE LE CAFE DES STAGIAIRES NEW
The happening area of Sathorn Soi 10-12 recently welcomed this casual neighborhood bar named after the French phrase for a place where young interns work. The Bangkok debut follows three other branches in Shanghai, and sits in a colorful shop-house with an unpretentious atmosphere, staying open for lunch and dinner until you’re ready to dance. The dishes stick to no particular culinary theme, ranging from French anchovies, foie gras and croquet truffle (parma ham, brie and tartufata sandwiches) to Thaistyle chicken satay. To drink, try classics like Moscow mule, caipirinha and negroni, as well as the signature “French pour” Ricard. 142/21 Sathorn Soi 12, 081-207-3077. Open TueSun 11:30am-2am. www.facebook.com/csbangkok
Hot Spots ROOFTOP BARS
ABOVE ELEVEN
1
3
ZOOM
The 55th floor view from Centara’s rooftop puts this bar in the same league as high flyers like Vertigo at the Banyan Tree. Al fresco dining and drinking takes place under a swooping, red-lit arch in an environment that is somewhat more relaxed than the adjoining Fifty Five restaurant. Chef Hugo Coudurier prepares a menu focused on high-quality French ingredients, best enjoyed with a drop from the hotel’s notably excellent wine cellar.
40/F, Anantara Sathorn, 36 Narathiwat Ratchanakarin Rd., 02-210-9000. Open daily 5:30pm-1am
55/F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld, 999/99 Rama 1 Rd., 02-100-6255. Siam. Open daily 6pm-1am. BTS Siam
ABOVE ELEVEN
This bar and restaurant doesn’t just have great views of the city going for it; there’s also an adventurous menu of Japanese-Peruvian fusion (aka Nikkei) cuisine. Small plates like acebichado rolls (seabass, ika karage, avocado) and skewers of anticucho beef heart are bettered only by their signature cocktails. Note that if you’re sitting at the bar you’ll have your back to the skyline, so its worth booking a table in advance. 33/F, Fraser Suites Sukhumvit, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 083-542-1111. Open daily 6pm-2am. BTS Nana
2
OCTAVE
The bar’s trendy-but-mature vibe is accentuated by striking views from the top floor of the Marriott Sukhumvit hotel. The first level features a long balcony filled with sculpture-like sofas, above which are a couple of private rooms and a third tier with 360-dedgree views around a circular bar. DJs play nottoo-loud funky house to a crowd of young executives and hotel guests drinking classic cocktails with slight twists. The food focuses on Asian-themed bar snacks. 45/F, Marriott Hotel Sukhumvit, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57, 02-797-0000. Open daily 5pm-1am. BTS Thong Lo
5
RED SKY
360-degree cityscape views from the 40th floor, complete with a DJ and dance floor and spacious wooden patios. The restaurant serves international cuisine: think crispy wonton with black truffle and ricotta cheese, wagyu beef burger with foie gras, and a selection of grilled meats and seafood dishes. The drinks menu is vast, offering everything from cocktails to an extensive wine list. Try the Green TeaPassion Sour.
Y SPOTLIGHT
4
ZOOM
SCARLETT WINE BAR & RESTAURANT
This elegant wine bistro surrounded by glass on all sides, offering sweeping views of lower Silom and the river and boasts a plesant terrace couch seatings on it’s balcony. The vibe remains fairly casual, thanks to the big central bar and chalkboard menus. The wine list goes on forever, again at some of the best prices in town, with over a dozen wines by the glass. Food specials rotate constantly, bringing in exciting imports like cured hams from all over Europe or seasonal oysters. 37/F, Pullman Hotel G., 188 Silom Rd., 02-238-1991. Open daily 6pm-1am. BTS Chong Nonsi
J. Boroski Mixology Run by Joseph Boroski, creator of cocktail lists for sophisticated bars and many five-star hotels, this is a hidden gem among Bangkok's countless bars— and by hidden, we really mean it. Look for the women in red dresses outside a “karaoke” lounge, turn left and head to the end of the street. Once inside, you’ll be served cocktails tailored to your requirements (there’s no menu) using ingredients you can’t find anywhere else in town. Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-712-6025
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GUIDE
DINING
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LA MONITA URBAN CANTINA NEW
This sleek new mall branch of Bangkok’s much-loved Mexican joint La Monita Taqueria goes well beyond regular Tex-Mex by adding creative and seasonal ingredients to Mexican classics; think braised beef tongue tacos, duck carnitas quesadillas and guacamole made with pineapple or mango. There’s also a nod to PeruvianJapanese cuisine (why not?) with the Ceviche Nikkei (yellow fin tuna cured in wasabisoy leche de tigre), and a well-stocked bar serving Mexican cocktails like margarita as well as other modern classics. 6/F, The Helix Quartier, The Emquartier, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-003- 6238. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Phrom Phong
Y SPOTLIGHT
Hot Spots BEST DIM SUM
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CHEF MAN
Make your reservation early if you want a taste of what is some of the best dim sum in Bangkok. Excellent preparation, fresh ingredients and perfect timing make even the most basic shrimp dumplings exciting. Located in the Eastin Grand Sathorn Hotel, the atmosphere is fairly vibrant thanks to a large open kitchen where a small and frenzied army of cooks prepare the Cantonese dishes. 3/F, Eastin Grand Sathorn, Sathorn Rd., 02-2123741, 02-212-3789. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-10pm. BTS Surasak
HONG BAO
3 CHEF MAN
Seven Spoons Organic-oriented restaurant Seven Spoons has a retro, bricks and concrete, industrial vibe. The kitchen whips up Mediterranean-inspired dishes that are complex, balanced and fresh: wood-fired pizzas, portabello mushroom and tofu with black bean puree, pork chop wrapped in bacon and more. Not only is the food perfectly executed, the service is amicable and genuinely caring. Though not in central Bangkok, this place is a destination unto itself. 22-24 Chakkaphatdi Phong Rd., 02-629-9214. Open Mon-Sat 11am-3pm; Tue-Sun 6-11:30pm
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CHINA HOUSE
HONG BAO
Hong Bao breaks with tradition by offering a bright white dining space decked out with chandeliers and ink drawings from 18th century Europe. It is also unusual in that it serves its dim sum, which are some of the best in town, all day. We’re particularly fond of the steamed rice rolls with crispy shrimp, which perfectly combine a fluffy rice roll with the well-mixed dark soy sauce. Their famous salapao lava is also superb, managing a wonderful balance between sweet creaminess and salty yoke. Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-662-3565, 092-273-5242. Open Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-9:30pm; SatSun 10:30am-9:30pm
This is one sexy place: the tiny aquamarine bar, the deep red and black lacquers, the films playing in the toilets. While there are cheaper places with greater reputations, China House is a winning blend of style and substance. Classics like sweet and sour pork can be truly masterful, while the shrimp in a creamy wasabi sauce never fails to elicit oohs. Our tip: go for the Sunday brunch.
Mandarin Oriental, 48 Oriental Ave., 02-659-9000. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 7-10:30pm CHINA HOUSE
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TASTE OF THE CITY
DINING HONG KONG Recent Openings
KNOCK BKK Possibly Bangkok’s top spot for cult sneakers is also a restaurant of Western comfort food. 3/F, 333/1 Sukhumvit Soi 55, between Thonglor soi 15 and 17, Bangkok, Thailand., 081-375-6625. Tue-Sun 10am-9pm
CAFE PARISIEN Traditional French cuisine made in consultation with Bangkok’s favorite French chef, Herve Frerard. Glasshouse at Sindhorn, 130-132 Wireless Rd., Bangkok, Thailand. 02-650-9993. 11:30am-2pm, 6-10pm
POT MINISTRY This hot pot restaurant offers four different types of soup, taken from the favorites of each region in Thailand. 8/F, Emquartier, 693 Sukhumvit Rd., Bangkok, Thailand. 02-003-6282. daily 11am-10pm
Advertise your business with us starting from B5,000
Email sales@asia-city.co.th or call 026249601 KYUSHU JANGARA Another Japanese chain specializing in hearty tonkotsu ramen. 2/F, J Avenue, Thonglor Soi 15, Bangkok, Thailand. 02-712-9678. daily 11am-11pm
PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE
Credit card payment accepted.
26 W H E R E T H A I LAND I DECEMBER 2 0 1 1 I www.wheretraveler.com
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GUIDE
DINING FIVE GREAT STREET FOOD STALLS IN CHINATOWN
PA JIN COCKLE
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CRYSTAL JADE GOLDEN PALACE
This classy Chinese bistro from Singapore features a selection of familiar Cantonese and Teochew specialties, like la mian and xiao long bao (Shanghai dumplings), that are so competently executed that many consider it a firm favorite despite its varied competitors in town. Do try the dim sum (over 70 to choose from), scallops and some of the dishes in clay pots, such as the minced meat with beancurd. There are more venues at Erawan and Sukhumvit Soi 39, but the one at Paragon is our favorite. G/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-610-9363, 02129-4343. Open Mon-Sat 11am-3pm, 5:30-10pm; Sun 11am-10pm. BTS Siam
JAE AUAN BUA LOY NAAM KHING
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DIN TAI FUNG
DIN TAI FUNG
Founded over 50 years ago as a cooking oil store in Taiwan, Din Tai Fung switched to dumplings, caught the eye of The New York Times, bagged a Michelin star and became a global chain of restaurants. It specializes in xiao long bao (soup-filled steamed dumplings) and shao mai (pork dumplings). The honed menu, the general appeal of the product (who doesn’t like dumplings?) and the handmade, quick-service model have made it a huge hit. Also try the dry noodles with pickled mustard and shredded pork and the noodle soup with vegetable pork wonton. 7/F, CentralWorld, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-646-1282. Open daily 11am-10pm. BTS Chit Lom
Guay Tiew Kua Gai This gem, very well-known among locals, is hidden in a tiny alley and run by an old couple who have been serving one of the best guay tiew kua gai (fried noodles with chicken) for decades.
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CRYSTAL JADE GOLDEN PALACE
Yaowarat Soi 6, Open Wed-Mon, 7pm-1am
T&K Seafood and R&L Seafood, Soi Texas Located opposite each other, these two restaurants are known for their fresh seafood dishes at reasonable prices. Try the steamed seabass in lime juice and the spicy tom yum goong (spicy and sour Thai prawn soup). Soi Phadung Dao, Yaowarat Rd. Open daily 6pm-1am
Pa Jin Cockle This place has been specializing in soft-boiled cockles and mussels for over 35 years. The sour and spicy dipping sauce here is also to die for, but if spicy isn’t your thing, there is also a sweet option. Soi Phadungdao, Yaowarat Rd., Open daily Mon-Sat 6:30pm-1am, Sun 5pm-1am
Guay Jub Ouan Pochana Located in front of an old-school cinema, this peppery pork belly rolled-noodle soup specialist is always swarming with a crowd of people, so don’t be surprised if you end up sharing a table with strangers. Yaowarat Rd., corner of Soi 11. Open daily 7pm-late
Jae Auan Bua Loy Naam Khing This bua loy naam khing (sesame dumplings with ginger tea) vendor has been serving the popular Chinese dessert for over 20 years. Apart from the bestselling original sesame and ginger combination, there are also taro dumplings and tofu pudding. Not a fan of ginger? Swap it for the sweetened milk instead. Yaowarat Rd., 081-860-1053, 081-612-5700. Open Tue- Sun 7-11.30pm
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ART
SCHEMATA GALLERY NEW
The trendy Thonglor neighborhood welcomed a brand new art gallery at the end of July. Its current opening exhibition features the work of Pok Kobkongsanti from T.R.O.P (terrain + open space) landscape architectural design studio. Hand Drawing Retrospective Solo Exhibition is a compilation of the renowned architect's private drawings over the course of 10 years. 1/F, Liberty Tower, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor). 088-088-8066
Hot Spots TOP EXHIBITIONS THIS MONTH
1
I’M NOT YOUR HOLY MOTHER
An intense and emotive exhibition by Thai artist Burasaporn Thongchai challenging angelic depictions of womanhood. Her work focuses on blood, flesh, feelings of love and hate, and motherly sins and instincts.
5
IWAN
A solo exhibition by Jakarta-born photographer Iwan Bagus at The Space, featuring mainly black and white male nude photographs from his Oblivion series, created between 2008-2012 while waiting for his visa application for the United States.
Through Sep 19. Ardel’s Third Place Gallery, 137137/1 Thonglor Soi 10, 02-714-7929. BTS Thong Lo
Through Sep 20. G1 Contemporary, 999 Phloen Chit Rd. BTS Chit Lom
Y SPOTLIGHT SERIAL CUT - DUAL & BISECTIONS
3 I'M NOT YOUR HOLY MOTHER
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CALL WAITING: BANGKOK PHONE BOOTHS
DC-based photographer Frank Hallam Day captures images of public phone booths and their subtle traces of urban life, from job ads and entertainment listings to graffiti art and street protest messages from the recent political turmoil in Thailand. Curated by Brian Curtin as part of the PhotoBangkok 2015 Festival (www.photobangkokfestival.com).
Through Sep 27, H Gallery, 201 Sathorn Soi 12, 085-021-5508
SERIAL CUT - DUAL & BISECTIONS
A collaboration between creative agency Most and Hansar Hotel, featuring experimental photographs of different materials combined together to create a new, surreal object, as well as the bright party portraits of Bartholot, a visual artist from Madrid. Part of the PhotoBangkok 2015 Festival.
Through Oct 4, 6:30pm Hansar Bangkok, 3 Soi Mahadlekluang 2, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-209-1234
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EQUABLE EXHIBITION
A multimedia art exhibition that explores the simplicity of the human mind through the perspectives of Soichiro Shimizu, Natanel Gluska, Wal Chirachaisakul, Mongkontuch Sittatanakorn, Manee Meejai and more.
Through Oct 3. Kalwit Studio & Gallery, Wireless Soi 2 (Ruam Rudi)
Suan Pakkad
Opened to the public in 1952 by its former royal residents, this complex of eight Thai-style houses was Thailand's first public museum. It showcases sculptures, furniture and traditional instruments from the Rama V period that belonged to Prince and Princess Chumbhot of Nagara Svarga, as well as artifacts from the collection of King Chulalongkorn's son. 352-354 Sri Ayutthaya Rd., 02-246-1115. Open daily 9am4pm. BTS Phaya Thai
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SHOPPING NEW
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INDIGO TO INDIAN
On the second floor of the quaint Blue Dye Cafe, you’ll now find this new multilabel store. Formerly an online business with pop-ups at hip markets across town, Indigo to Indian sells Thai handicraft products like Cone No.9 ceramics, Cornerstone womenswear and handpicked indigo-dye work from Chiang Mai. The space also showcases silver and stoneware, men’s and women’s wear from both Thailand and Japan, stuffed animals and even some New Balance sneakers. Some of the clothes are collaborations between the owner and Chiang Mai locals, making for some pretty unique pieces. 2/F, Blue Dye Cafe, Sukhumvit Soi 36, 083-7145333. Open Tue-Sun 10am-9pm
Hot Spots TRADITIONAL AND LOCAL CRAFTS
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ALEXANDER LAMONT
Drawing from his experiences living in both Europe and Asia, Alexander Lamont’s beautiful decor items successfully blend European techniques with the subtle mystique of Asian art. The materials, from bronze to stingray skin, are always luxurious and meticulously handcrafted by the local artisans under Alexander Lamont’s employ, ensuring that each piece of furniture is both unique and meaningful.
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YARNNAKARN ART & CRAFT
Trimode’s lead jewelry designer traveled around Thailand to help contemporize traditional products. The brand won the top prize at Asia Talents 2014 for products like Doipui, a modern redesign of a traditional Hmong embroidered hat, and Nong Bua Daeng, hand-woven cotton hats and totes colored with natural indigo and ebony dyes.
Room 027-029, MRT Kampangpetch (Exit 1)
3/F, The Wonder Room at Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd., 0-2658-1098. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Siam
2/F, Central Embassy, Phloenchit Rd., 02-160-5772. BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Phloen Chit
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FOUND BY TRIMODE
Launched back in 2010, Yarnnakarn Art & Craft Studio is leading the new wave of Bangkok potters thanks to classical designs spruced up with bold finishes, like the all-white paint used on the petite Bonsai-friendly flowerpot. The products range from tableware to home décor items like vases, animal sculpture and frames.
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JIM THOMPSON
The original, main store of this pioneering Thai silk brand stocks silk clothes and accessories across its significant three floors. The space is classic and palatial, paneled with teak from wall to wall, and shows off a range of elegant silks, from pillowcases and scarves to clubby neckties. There are other branches at Jim Thompson House (a must-visit within walking distance of BTS National Stadium) as well as various malls and five-star hotels around Bangkok. 9 Surawong Rd., 02-632-8100. Open daily 9am9pm. BTS Sala Daeng
YARNNAKARN ART & CRAFT STUDIO
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OTOP HERITAGE
One of a number of Thai craft shops under the One Tambon One Product (OTOP) brand, this store specializes in luxury items produced in Thailand. It features more than a thousand handicraft products selected from different producers around country, most of them home decorative items and fashion accessories. Other OTOP sites include OTOP The Walking Street in Silom (02635-7061) and OTOP The Avenue (096-231-2843) in Ramintra. 4/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloenchit Rd., 02-1605975. Open daily 10am-8pm. BTS Phloen Chit
JIM THOMPSON
O.P. PLACE This luxury mall oozes charm, from the sweeping wooden staircase to the antique lift. The plushly-carpeted halls are home to high-end boutiques selling rare antiques from across Southeast Asia, handcrafted jewelry, bespoke tailors and fine art. The Ashwood Gallery on the third floor is particularly striking. There’s also a free shuttle service to the neighboring O.P. Garden, which houses an art gallery, restaurants and high-end boutiques. 30/1 Charoenkrung Soi 38, 02- 266-0186. Open daily 10:30am-7:30pm. BTS Saphan Taksin
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GUIDE
HEALTH + WELLNESS KASHIKIRI SODA ONSEN NEW
This onsen blends Japanese and Thai spa cultures. There are seven private tubs, including four tubs for couples and four private massage rooms. Try the basic 1.5-hour Kashikiri Balancing Bath for a 45-minute private onsen and 30-minute head, shoulders and back massage, or go for the full two-hour Onsen and Scrub. The massage menu ranges from Thai massage and hot Asian herbal compress to foot reflexology, sport massage by aroma oil, hot aroma oil massage and back-neck-shoulder-head massage. 84 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 081 268 4624. Open daily 9:30am-10:30pm. ow.ly/RaY9w
Hot Spots BEST THAI MASSAGE
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HEALTH LAND
Set in a grand, Thai-style building in front of Ekkamai Soi 10, this is considered one of the best spas in Bangkok thanks to its clean facilities, well-trained staff and wallet-friendly prices. A twohour traditional Thai massage is also at a reasonable price, accounting for its local popularity. Unlike most street-side massage shops, its Thai massages are done in private rooms. They also have another branch at Sathorn Soi 10. 96/1 Ekkamai Soi 10, 02-392-2233. Open daily 9ammidnight. www.healthlandspa.com
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OASIS SPA
Set in a stylish compound, this spa’s cool white exterior gives way to 15 treatment rooms decorated in a Thai Lanna style. The King of Oasis is best suited to men and features a two-hour hot Thai herbal muscle compress and a hot oil massage. Ladies can opt for the two-hour Queen of Oasis, which blends Swedish and aromatherapy massages. They also have other a la carte and package treatments for hair, body and face. 64 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-262-2122. Open daily 10am10pm. www.oasisspa.net
4
WAT PHO
Located next to the Grand Palace, this is one of the oldest temples in Bangkok, home to the 43-meter-long reclining Buddha and credited as the birthplace of Thai massage. The temple massage school still runs today, meaning visitors can get some of the most authentic massage anywhere in the city. They also run short courses for anyone who’d like to learn for themselves. Sanam Chai Rd., 02-255-4771. Open daily 8am-6pm. www.watpomassage.com
THE HIVE
2
THE HIVE SPA
This petite but elegant spa may look European with its tastefully neutral rugs, rollback chairs and Barbara Barry color scheme, but the treatments focus squarely on Thai foot massage and oil-free head-and-shoulder massage. Order tea, juice or freshly ground coffee from the cafe upstairs and enjoy your pampering session alongside members of the adjoining co-working facility. Afterwards, head up to the rooftop for a light salad or bottle of beer. 1/F, The Hive, 46/9 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-662-6062. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. www.thehivespa.com
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MYTH
Its massages are heavily influenced by the Wat Pho school—credited as the birthplace of Thai massage—and are performed using their own blend of essential oils. The modern-rustic decor could come straight from a five-star hotel, but the prices are much more down-to-earth, while the main treatment room is arranged in the traditional, Thai-style communal format. There’s also a delightful al fresco bar, a boutique selling Thai-made textiles, and a private fortune-telling service. 28/3 Soi Ruam Rudi, 02-651-5600-1. Open daily noonmidnight. BTS Phloen Chit. www.siamyth.com
Rarinjinda Wellness Spa
Offers treatments using the most modern spa technology and facilities and specializes in urban, all-round wellness treatments ranging from facials to hot stone massages. Treatment packages last from 1-4 hours, whether it’s the 1.5-hour Elements of Life (Tibetan sound therapy, guava foot polisher, warm sand bed therapy, rose body freshener, foot soaks and body massage) or the 4-hour Rarinjinda Golden Memories (floral bath jacuzzi with chromotherapy, siamese herbal steam, hot stone massage, guava foot polisher, body scrub or mask and facial relaxation). 30/F, Grande Centre Point, 100 Wireless Rd. BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily 9am-10pm. www.rarinjinda.com
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SPICEROADS CYCLE TOURS Whether it’s a half-day trip through Bangkok’s little known neighboring jungle, Bangkrachao, or an 11-day cycling tour from Bangkok to Chiang Mai, Spiceroads Cycle Tours boasts more than 120 itineraries for you to pick from. Planned by experienced tour leaders, each route immerses its guests in the sides of Thai culture many tourists don’t get to see, as well as taking them through breathtaking scenery. The itineraries are suitable for cyclists of all levels, and include food and accommodation. 45 Soi Pridi Banomyong, Sukhumvit Soi 71, 02-381-7490. www.spiceroads.com
Hot Spots
CULTURAL SHOWS & PERFORMANCES MUAY THAI LIVE: THE LEGEND LIVES
3
This fast-paced live Thai boxing show is created and directed by Ekachai Uekrongtham, the artistic director of Action Theatre in Singapore and director of films like Beautiful Boxer and Pleasure Factory. The stage show features more than just Thai kickboxing, throwing in plenty of swashbuckling action and a sprinkling of romance, all performed by former Muay Thai champs and national boxers.
BAAN SILAPIN
1
BAAN SILAPIN
Tucked behind a series of small streets, this 200-year-old canal-side wooden house offers one of the most authentic experiences of traditional Thai culture. The house formerly belonged to a merchant family, but is now home to a fellowship of artists who’ve transformed it into a public artist’s residence. Whether strolling around the ancient homes, sampling traditional drinks and desserts, shopping for art or just relaxing by the canal, you will feel a million miles from the hustle and bustle of Bangkok. Get there by 2pm to catch the daily puppet show (except Wednesday), but do call ahead just in case.
Asiatique the Riverfront, Warehouse 4, 2194 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-108-5999, Tue-Sun 8-9:30pm. BTS Saphan Taksin. www.facebook.com/muaythailive.bkk
4
MUAY THAI AT RAJADAMNERN STADIUM
Asiatique the Riverfront, 2194 Charoenkrung Rd., 02688-1415. BTS Saphan Taksin. www.calypsocabaret. com
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Rachadamnoen Nok Rd., 02-281-4205, Open Mon, Wed, Thu 6:30-10pm; Sun 3-5pm, 6:30-10pm
Embassy Cineplex Equipped with state-of-the-art screens and sound systems, jumbo-sized seats and private mini fridges, this cinema offers one of the most VIP moviewatching experiences in the world. The cinema contains a total of five theaters with seating options ranging from cocoon-style first-class plane seats to daybeds and giant sofas. Be sure to check the official website for tickets and show times.
SIAM NIRAMIT
This over-the-top visual spectacular draws on the histories of Thailand’s four main regions—the North, South, Central Plains and the Northeast—to present an 80-minute history of a nation that delves into its religious beliefs and major festivals. Expect plenty of state-of-the-art effects and a full, on-site replica village.
19 Tiamruammit Rd., 02-649-9222. Show starts at 8pm daily. www.siamniramit.com
The first Broadway-style cabaret show in Bangkok, founded in 1988, consists of 70 artists performing a diverse variety of cultural shows, from Arirang (Korean classic folk tale) to Kinnaree (classical Thai dance) to a contemporary burlesque act. It’s all massively kitsch and something of a Bangkok institution. Performances are held every day at 8:15pm and 9:45pm. Advance booking needed.
Thailand’s most famous Muay Thai stadium, dating back to 1941, is the definitive place to witness genuine, championship Thai boxing bouts. The beautiful art deco building holds matches for both amateurs and professionals three days a week, and is as popular with Thais as tourists. Foreigners are seated ringside, while the outer seats are occupied by hard-gambling locals—as much of a spectacle as the fighting.
315 Wat Thongsala Ngam, Soi Petchkasem 28, 02868-5279. Open Mon-Tue 10am-6pm, Wed-Fri 9am6pm, Sat-Sun 9am-7pm
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5
CALYPSO
RAJADAMNERN STADIUM
6/F, Central Embassy, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-160-5999. Open daily 10am-2am. BTS Phloen Chit. www.embassycineplex.com
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Phahon Yothin ¾ËÅâ¸Թ
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BTS (Silom Line)
4 Anantasamakhom Throne Hall
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MRT
5 Khao San Road
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On Nut ͋͹¹Øª
FIND OUT THE LATEST NEWS ON THAILAND AT WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM AND FACEBOOK.COM/WHERETHAILAND
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Essential Tips TRANSPORTATION & MONEY AIRPORT LINK
TUK-TUKS
BANKING HOURS
The Airport Rail Link (ARL) is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to get to and from Suvarnabhumi Airport, especially for those traveling light. There are two types of train: Express Line and City Line. The ARL Express Line runs from Suvarnabhumi Airport to either Phaya Thai (connecting to the BTS) or Makkasan stations (10-minute walk to MRT Petchaburi), and takes 20 minutes. The City Line stops at six stations and takes around 40 minutes. Thai Airways passengers boarding the Express Line can check in their bags at Makkasan station. One-way fares are B90 for City Line and B150 for the Express Line. More information at www.srtet.co.th/en
Tuk-tuks are a noisy but fun way of getting around Bangkok, not to mention great photo opportunities. However, they are no guarantee of beating the infamous traffic and you should agree on a price before getting in. Haggle hard but be wary of any cheap offers if you don’t want an unexpected trip to a tailor or gem store.
Banking hours are generally from 8:30am-3:30pm, Monday through Friday except on public holidays and bank holidays. Banks in malls open daily, 10am-8pm.
TAXIS In Bangkok metered taxis are readily available and very affordable, with fares starting from B35 for the first two kilometers. Despite their many colors, there’s no difference in prices and service. Some drivers speak limited English, so do get your destination written down in Thai to avoid any miscommunication. Taxis sometimes try to negotiate a price. Make sure to only pay the metered price. There are now also a number of mobile phone applications and services for those who want to hail a cab without having to hit the streets. The two main apps are Grab Taxi (grabtaxi.com/bangkok-thailand) and Uber (www.uber.com/cities/bangkok).
ATMs are very common in Bangkok and can be found in most areas of Thailand, often located outside 7-Eleven stores. You should easily be able to use overseas cards to withdraw money.
VAT REFUNDS Visitors to Thailand who make purchases of goods valued B5,000 or over from stores displaying the “VAT REFUND FOR TOURISTS” sign are eligible to receive a refund of the VAT paid on the item. At the time you purchase the item present your passport and ask the sales assistant at the store to complete the VAT Refund Application for Tourists form, attaching the original tax invoices to the form. Then at the airport, and before you check-in, present your goods and the refund form to customs officers. After checkin and immigration, proceed to the VAT Refund Office in the departure lounge. Refund amounts under B30,000 will be made in cash (Thai Baht) or by bank draft or credited to your credit card account. Refunds over B30,000 will be made by bank draft or credited to your credit card account.
SKYTRAIN/UNDERGROUND The BTS skytrain stops at Bangkok’s main districts and gives you a bird’s eye view of the city. There are two main lines: the Silom line, which runs from across the river in Bang Wa to National Stadium next to MBK Shopping Centre; and the Sukhumvit line, which runs from Soi Bearing in the eastern part of the city along Sukhumvit before heading up north to Mo Chit station by the Chatuchak Market. Siam is the interchange station between the two lines. Fares are B15-52. Unlimited day passes are B130. The underground, or MRT, is one line but has an extensive reach, from Hua Lamphong train station on the outskirts of Chinatown, down through the main Central Business District before turning North and heading up Ratchadapisek Road past Chatuchak Market and ending at Bang Sue station. Fares are B16-B40. There are three interchange stations: (1) BTS Asoke—MRT Sukhumvit, (2) BTS Sala Daeng— MRT Silom and (3) BTS Mo Chit—MRT Chatuchak. Tickets can be bought for individual journeys, or you can get special one-day tourist passes or tickets that cover a specified number of trips. For more information, go to www.bts.co.th and www. bangkokmetro.co.th. Note that the BTS and MRT use different ticketing systems.
ATMS
TUK-TUKS
CANAL BOATS While Bangkok used to be the Venice of the East, there is now only really one canal (Klong) still used as a means of getting around, Klong Saen Saep has a ferry service that runs daily from Bang Kapi in the Eastern suburbs to Phu Khao Thong or the Golden Mount in the heart of the Old Town (Rattanakosin Island), stopping off at various piers along the way. Be warned though, the boats don’t wait long at the piers, making getting on and off rather nerve-wracking (and physically challenging). And, due to the unsavory nature of the canal water, any picturesque view is blocked by sheets of tarpaulin to prevent splashing. Fares are B9-B120
EXPRESS RIVER BOATS These fast and frequent ferries along the Chao Phraya River are a great way to get a different perspective on the city, as well as a good option for getting to many of the temples and palaces built along the river. The main Sathorn (Central) pier is located by BTS Saphan Taksin with boats heading upstream from here and stopping off at numerous piers all the way to Nonthaburi. Fares range from B15-B42 depending on distance. You can also opt for a tourist ticket (B150), which allows one-day unlimited travel and comes with a guide booklet to some of the leading tourist attractions accessible from the river. From Sathorn (Central) Pier, you can also catch free ferries to many riverside hotels and Asiatique.
ESSENTIAL NUMBERS 1 EMERGENCY SERVICES (FIRE BRIGADE, POLICE) 191 2 AIRPORT RAIL LINK 02-308-5600. airportraillink.railway.co.th 3 BANGKOK MASS TRANSIT SYSTEM (BTS) 02-617 6000 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bts.co.th 4 BTS TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER 02-617-7340-1 (daily: 8am-8pm). www.bts.co.th 5 BANGKOK METRO (MRT) 02-624-5200 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bangkokmetro.co.th 6 CHAO PHRAYA EXPRESS BOAT CALL CENTER 02-623-6001-3 (6am-7pm). www.chaophrayaexpressboat.com 7 SUVARNABHUMI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 02-132-1888. www.suvarnabhumiairport.com 8 TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND (TAT) 1672 from Thai numbers. www.tourismthailand.org 9 TOURIST POLICE 24-HOUR CALL CENTER 1155 from Thai numbers or 02-250-5500 SEP T EMBER 2015 I W HERE THA ILA N D 33
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Y
21 THINGS WE LOVE about Bangkok
1
2
7
!4
9
!8
1 Getting a tension relieving Thai 6 Sitting ringside and blending !1 Sampling the delicious wagyu !7 Hanging out with the city’s coolmassage at the spiritual home of the art, Wat Pho, also home to the 46-meter-long reclining Buddha. See page 30.
with the locals while watching a muay Thai fight at Rajadamnoen Stadium. See page 31.
sirloin with black truffle potato and bone marrow butter at Vogue Lounge. See page 19.
est locals and expats at Smalls, a laid-back cocktail lounge set in a corner shop-house. See page 7.
7 Tucking into giant, Texan-style, !2 Taking in a photography exhibi- !8 Getting a relaxing mani-pedi at 2 Catching a long-tail boat upriver home-cooked pulled pork sand- tion at Kathmandu, the gallery of Ten Ten Nail and Spa, a beauty to Baan Silapin, the century-old wooden house where Thai puppet shows are performed daily. See page 31.
wiches at The Smokin’ Pug, Bangkok’s best barbecue joint. See page 7.
revered local photographer Manit Sriwanichpoom. See page 18
salon decked out in royal Moroccan decor. See page 21.
!3 Starting your day with a hot latte !9 Browsing around for unique 8 Getting fitted for a custom suit amid the cozy bustle of D’Ark, a new decor pieces at Alexander Lamont,
3 Sipping a unique handcrafted at the historic O.P. Place after a cafe with seriously good coffee. See known for his European-style craftscocktail at J. Boroski Mixology, a secret lounge bar that offers no menu and hard-to-find ingredients. See page 26.
day out at the Grand Palace. See page 29.
page 21.
manship with Asian touches. See page 29.
!4 Sipping on a ya dong cocktail 9 Taking in the sweeping views of while listening to traditional Thai @0 Leaning back on one of the spathe city with a colorful cocktail in
music at Tep Bar. See page 5
4 Enjoying the delicious duck con- hand at Above Eleven, a rooftop bar fit waffles at Opposite Mess Hall, before starting your night with a couple shots of Thai herbal spirits at Studio Lam. See page 6
5 Trying on the latest outfits from
with stellar views. See page 26.
!5 Booking a table at Chef Man, one
cious lounge chairs with a warm tub of popcorn at Embassy Cineplex. See page 31.
of our favorite dim sum restaurants
!0 Stocking up on beautiful ceram- in Bangkok. See page 23.
@1 Taking the hour-long ride to Hua
ics and kitchenware at OTOP Heritage, located in the luxurious Central Embassy. See page 29.
Hin, home to some of the best golf
local designers’ fall 2015 collections. See page 10.
!6 Descending the steps to Maggie courses in Thailand, for a couple Choo’s, the sultry Silom nightspot styled on Shanghai opium dens. See page 19.
rounds of golf. See page 12.
where in the world Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com ASIA Thailand, Singapore, Hong Kong
UNITED STATES Alaska & Yukon, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Georgia, Indianapolis, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Minneapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, New York, Northern Virginia, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, South Florida, St. Louis, Washington D.C.
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34 W H E R E T H AILAND I S EPTEMB ER 2 0 1 5
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Where to find Hotels in Bangkok The AETAS Bangkok All Seasons Bangkok Siam Aloft Bangkok Sukhumvit 11 Amari Watergate Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa Arnoma Baan Noppawong Bally’s Studio Suites Banyan Tree Bangkok Best Western Sukhumvit Cabochon Hotel & Residence Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao Centara Grand at Central World Centara Hotels & Resorts Chatrium Hotel Riverside Bangkok Conrad Bangkok Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park Dusit Thani Bangkok Emporium Suites Eastin Grand Hotel Sathorn Four Points by Sheraton Four Seasons Bangkok GLOW Pratunam Grand Hyatt Erawan Grand Mercure Park Avenue Grand Millennium Sukhumvit Holiday Inn Silom Holiday Inn Bangkok Sukhumvit 22 Hotel Muse Imperial Queens Park InterContinental Bangkok JW Marriott Bangkok The Landmark Bangkok Le Fenix Sukhumvit LIT Bangkok Luxx Majestic Grande Mandarin Oriental Bangkok Marriott Sukhumvit 57 Mercure & Ibis Bangkok Siam
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The Metropolitan Bangkok Millennium Hilton Miracle Grand Convention Montien Riverside Novotel Bangkok Ploenchit Sukhumvit Novotel Bangkok Siam Square Novotel Bangkok Impact Oaks Bangkok Sathorn The Okura Prestige Bangkok Park Plaza Sukhumvit Pathumwan Princess The Peninsula Bangkok Phachara Suites Plaza Athénée Bangkok Pullman Bangkok King Power Radisson Blu Plaza Radisson Suites Bangkok Ramada Encore Bangkok Ramada Plaza Menam Riverside Renaissance Bangkok Ratchaprasong Riva Surya Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers Siam Kempinski Shangri-La Bangkok Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit The Berkeley Hotel The Continent Hotel Bangkok The Davis Bangkok The Eugenia Hotel & Spa The Siam Siam @ Siam Design Hotel & Spa Sivatel Bangkok Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit Sofitel So Bangkok The St. Regis Bangkok The Sukhothai Bangkok Swissotel Le Concorde Swissotel Nai Lert Park VIE Hotel Bangkok ViVa Garden
where Thailand
Hotels in Other Provinces
Shopping Malls
Anantara Rasananda Koh Phangan Villa
CentralWorld
Resort & Spa
The Emporium Department Complex
Chandara Resort
Peninsula Plaza
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The River City Shopping Complex
Dara Samui Beach Resort & Spa Villa Dusit D2 Baraquda Pattaya
Others
InterContinental Samui Baan Taling Ngam
Uber Black limousines
JW Marriott Khao Lak Resort & Spa
TAT Tourist Information Counter at
JW Marriott Phuket Resort & Spa
Suvarnabhumi Airport (arrivals)
Le Méridien Koh Samui Resort & Spa
Chao Phraya Express Boats
Renaissance Koh Samui Resort & Spa
Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC)
Renaissance Phuket Resort & Spa
Blue Elephant Restaurant
Santiburi Resort
Devarana Spa
Sheraton Krabi
Dean & Deluca
Shangri-La Chiang Mai
Elemis Spa at The St. Regis Bangkok
Sheraton HuaHin Resort & Spa
The Kiwi Bangkok Sports Pub & Grill
Tamarind Village Chiang Mai
The Australian Pub & BBQ
Serviced Apartments
Yunomori Onsen & Spa
Adelphi Service Apartments
La Grande Perle
Adelphi Suites Bangkok
Kuppadeli
Ascott Sathorn Bangkok
Kalpapruek
Asoke Residence Sukhumvit
Jim Thompson Restaurant
Cape House Serviced Apartments
Viva & Aviv
Courtyard Marriott
Mandarin Oriental At Paragon
Pizza Romana Pala
Grand Mercure Bangkok Asoke Residence Marriott Executive Apartments Sathorn Vista Marriott Executive Apartments Sukhumvit Park Mayfair Bangkok Marriott Executive Apartment
Y Where reaches over 100,000 visitors each month. For sales enquiries, contact where@asia-city.co.th or call 02-624-9638.
Natural Ville Executive Residences, Bangkok Oakwood Residence Sukhumvit 24 Oriental Residence Bangkok Somerset Lakeview Sukkhumvit 16 The River Condominium
W Hotel Bangkok The Westin Grande Sukhumvit
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